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THE  EPICUREAN 


THE    EPICUREAN 


A  COMPLETE  TREATISE  OF 


ANALYTICAL  AND  PRACTICAL  STUDIES 


ON  THE 

CULINARY  ART 

INCLUDING 

Table  and  Wine  Service,  How  to  Prepare  and  Cook  Dishes,  an  Index  for  Marketing, 
a  Great  Variety  of  Bills  of  Fare  for  Breakfasts,  Luncheons,  Dinners- 
Suppers,   Ambigus,   Buffets,   etc,,   and  a  Selection  of 
Interesting  Bills  of  Fare  of  Delmonico's, 
from  1862  to  1894, 

MAKING  A 

FRANCO-AMERICAN  CULINARY  ENCYCLOPEDIA 


BY    CHARLES    RANHOFER, 

FORMER  CHEF  OF  DELMONICO'S, 
tfonorary  President  of  the  "Societe  Culinaire  Philanthropique,"  of  New  Yorh. 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  800  PLATES. 


Published  by 

THE  HOTEL  MONTHLY  PRESS 
950  Merchandise  Mart         < 
Chicago,  111. 


Copyright  1920 
By  Rose  Ranhofer 


PREFACE. 


PUBLISHING  this  work  I  have  endeavored  to  fill  a  much  needed  want 
viz: — the  best  and  most  effectual  manner  of  preparing  healthy  and 
nutritious  food. 


This  edition  contains  innumerable  recipes  which  I  have  simplified  and  explained 
in  a  comprehensive  manner  so  as  to  meet  the  wants  of  all.  It  suggests,  also,  many 
useful  and  important  hints  to  those  about  entering  the  profession. 

The  book  is  illustrated  and  contains  instructions  how  to  prepare,  garnish  and 
serve  according  to  the  traditional  rules  of  our  most  able  predecessors,  and  now 
followed  by  the  principal  chefs  of  France  and  the  United  States. 

In  some  instances,  where  it  was  deemed  necessary  to  differ  from  the  standard 
rules  and  methods  in  order  to  cater  to  the  various  tastes,  changes  have  been  made. 

The  book  is  divided  into  twenty-four  chapters :  Table  Service,  Bills  of  Fare, 
Supplies,  Elementary  Methods,  Soups,  Stocks,  Hot  and  Cold  Sauces,  Garnishings, 
Hot  and  Cold  Side  Dishes,  Shell  Fish,  Crustaceans,  Fish,  Beef,  Veal,  Mutton,  Lamb, 
Pork,  Poultry,  Game,  Miscellaneous  Entrees,  Cold  Dishes,  Vegetables,  Cereals,  Hot 
and  Cold  Desserts,  Pastry,  Bakery,  Confectionery,  Ices,  Fruit,  Wines  and  Preserves, 

]Srot  relying  solely  on  my  experience  and  knowledge,  I  have  quoted  from  the 
most  illustrious  modern  author,  my  much  beloved  friend  and  colleague,  Urbain 
Dubois,  ex-chef  at  the  Court  of  Germany,  and  it  gives  me  sincere  pleasure  to  thank 
him  for  his  generous  assistance. 

The  profession  will  acknowledge  its  indebtedness  to  the  Messrs.  Delmonico  for 
the  interest  shown  by  them  in  developing  the  gastronomic  art  in  this  country. 

Many  will  recall  the  business  receptions  given  to  distinguished  guests  under  the 
supervision  and  direction  of  Delmonico. 

Mention  may  be  made  of  the  following  dinners :  to  President  U.  S.  Grant,  to 
President  A.  Johnson,  to  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis  of  Eussia,  to  Gen.  Prim,  to  Charles 
Dickens,  to  Sir  Morton  Peto,  to  Aug.  Belmont,  to  Giraud  Foster,  to  Gen.  Cutting, 
to  Luckmeyer,  the  so-called  "Black  Swan  Dinner,"  to  Admiral  Eenaud,  to  Prof. 
Morse,  to  Bartholdi,  to  De  Lesseps,  to  the  Comte  de  Paris,  also  the  ball  given  to 
the  Eussian  Admiral  and  Fleet,  and  the  Greek  dinner. 


viii  PREFACE. 

I  have  entitled  this  work  THE  EPICUREAN,  and  have  justly  dedicated  it  to  the 
memory  of  Messrs.  Delmonico,  as  a  token  of  my  gratitude  and  sincere  esteem. 

Their  world-wide  reputation  continues  to  be  maintained  by  Mr.  C.  C.  Delmonico. 
In  conclusion  I  feel  that  my  experience  will  be  useful  to  those  seeking  infor- 
mation in  the  gastronomic  art. 

Hoping  the  public  will  appreciate  my  efforts, 

I  remain  respectfully, 

CHAELES  RANHOFER. 


CIJ  18*27. 


BEA.VKR  &  SOUTH  W»JSrS 
22BROAU  STitBKT 
MADISON  SQUARE- 


Office  Beaver  &  South  WWSts 


COlsTTElSTTS. 


NUMBERS. 

TABLE  SERVICE  AND  BILLS  OF  FARE, 

ELEMENTARY  METHODS  AND  UTENSILS, 1-  182 

SOUPS, ...  183-  384 

SAUCES, •  385-  635 

GARNISHINGS,     .....  636~  77° 

COLD  SIDE  DISHES, •  771~  835 

HOT  SIDE  DISHES, 836-  993 

MOLLUSKS  AND  CRUSTACEANS, 994-1093 

FISH, 1094-1312 

BEEF,     .............  1313-1478 

VEAL,         ..........  1479-1584 

MUTTON, •  1585-1660 

LAMB,         ...........  1661-1770 

PORK,    : 1771-1820 

POULTRY, 1821-2045 

GAME, 2046-2209 

MISCELLANEOUS  ENTREES, 2210-2408 

COLD  SERVICE, 2409-2676 

VEGETABLES, 2677-2849 

EGGS, 2850-2951 

FARINACEOUS, 2952-2989 

HOT  SWEET  ENTREMETS, 2990-3124 

COLD  SWEET  ENTREMETS, 3125-3224 

PASTRY 3225-3404 

BAKERY, - 3405-3424 

ICES,       ....                  3424-3613 

CONFECTIONERY,         ..........  3614-3704 

WINES, 3705-3715 

LAST  CENTURY  TABLES,     ......... 

DELMONICO'S  MENUS  FROM  1861  TO  1894, 

INDEX,   .....    > 


PAGE. 

1 

169 
239 
288 
331 
355 
368 
401 
427 
471 
507 
531 
547 
569 
583 
637 
675 
723 
815 
847 
865 
873 
907 
931 
969 
977 
1029 
1061 
1068 
1073 
1139 


SERVICE. 


PAGE. 

BREAKFASTS, •  13 

Bills  of  Fare,              13 

DINNERS,  American  Service  (Plate), 1 

American  Service,  Bills  of  Fare, 1 

American  Service,  Reception, 6 

American  Service,  Table  Service, 5 

American  Service,  Wines  and  Cordials  (Plate), 

French  Service  (Plate), 

French  Service,  Necessary  Material, 9 

French  Service,  To  Set  the  Table, 9 

Russian  Service  (Plate), .        .  10 

LUNCHEONS, I3 

MODEL  MARKET  LIST, 21 

SUPPERS,  Ambigu, 

Buffet, 11 

SUPPLIES, 

BILLS  OF  FARE, 25 

Ambigu, 147 

Ambigu  Picnic, 145 

Breakfasts  (Plate), 25 

Buffet— Large I55 

Buffet  Suppers, 14fi 

Dancing  Party, I39 

Delmonico's,  from  1862  to  1804, 1°78 

Dinners, ...  58 

—  •  Garden  party, 

•  Invalids, 

Lunches, •         ..... 

Restaurant  Breakfast, I64 

Restaurant  Dinner, 

Restaurant  Lunch, 165 

Restaurant  Supper, 167 

Suppers, 

Suppers,  Sideboard, 142 

Suppers,  Sideboard,  English, 

Suppers,  Sideboard,  Large, 161 

Suppers,  Small,  

DESIGNS  FOR  TABLES  IN  THE  LAST  CEINTUHY,                                 .                               »  1°7C 


THE  EPICUREAN. 


SERVICE, 

AMEEICAN,  FEENCH,  ETJSSIAN-FOE  BEEAKFAST,  LUNCH,  DINNEE, 
SUPPEE,  COLLATION  OE  AMBIGU, 


DINNER  SERVICE-AMERICAN  STYLE- AND  BILL  OF  TARE  (Dinner  Service  &  I'Amfricaine 

et  le  Menu). 

The  success  of  a  dinner  depends  upon  good  cooking,  the  manner  in  which  it  is  served,  and 
especially  on  entertaining  congenial  guests.  The  American  service  is  copied  more  or  less  from  the 
French  and  Russian,  and  remodeled  to  the  tastes  and  customs  of  this  country  ;  as  it  varies  some- 
what from  all  others,  a  few  instructions  may  be  found  useful  to  those  desirous  of  learning  the 
difference  existing  between  them. 

THE   BILL  OF  FARE      (MENU). 

Menus  are  made  for  breakfasts,  luncheons  and  suppers,  but  the  most  important  one  is  for  the 
dinner  ;  these  menus  are  generally  composed  a  few  days  in  advance  to  enable  the  necessary  pro- 
visions to  be  purchased,  so  that  on  the  day  of  the  dinner,  there  has  been  ample  time  to  prepare 
everything  necessary,  consequently  much  confusion  is  avoided  and  the  work  better  done. 

In  carrying  out  the  order  the  menu  should  be  strictly  followed,  in  fact,  it  must  be  an  obliga- 
tory rule  to  do  so. 

Making  out  the  bills  of  fare  Is  the  duty  of  the  head  cook,  who  composes  and  writes  them 
according  to  the  latitude  he  enjoys  and  the  resources  he  has  at  hand. 

BILLS   OF   FARE   FOR   DINNER. 

Should  the  menu  be  intended  for  a  dinner  including  ladies,  it  must  be  composed  of  light, 
fancy  dishes  with  a  pretty  dessert;  if,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  intended  for  gentlemen  alone,  then  it 
must  be  shorter  and  more  substantial.  If  the  dinner  be  given  in  honor  of  any  distinguished 
foreign  guest,  then  a  place  must  be  allowed  on  the  menu  to  include  a  dish  or  several  dishes  of  his 
own  nationality;  avoid  repeating  the  same  names  in  the  same  menu.  Let  the  sauces  be  of 
different  colors,  one  following  the  other. 

Also  vary  the  color  of  the  meats  as  far  as  possible,  from  one  course  to  the  other.  Offer  on  the 
menus  all  foods  in  their  respective  seasons,  and  let  the  early  products  be  of  the  finest  quality 
(consult  a  general  market  list  to  find  the  seasonable  produce),  and  only  use  preserved  articles 
when  no  others  can  be  obtained. 

If  the  menus  are  hand  written  they  must  be  very  legible. 

Menus  are  indispensable  for  service  a  rAmericaine;  there  should  be  one  for  each  guest,  for  as 


2  THE    EPICUREAN. 

no  dish  served  from  the  kitchen  appears  on  the  table,  every  one  must  be  informed  beforehand  of 
what  the  dinner  is  composed,  and  those  dishes  that  are  to  follow  each  other. 

Menus  must  be  both  simple  and  elegant,  and  of  a  size  to  allow  them  to  be  easily  placed  in  the 
pocket  without  folding,  as  it  is  the  general  desire  to  keep  the  bill  of  fare  of  a  dinner  at  which  one 
has  assisted. 

A  few  important  observations  necessary  to  bills  of  fare  and  their  classification  are  here  given: 

OYSTERS  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL. 

Oysters  appear  on  the  menu  the  same  as  in  the  Russian  service;  on  French  bills  of  fare  they 
do  not  mention  them.  Suppress  oysters  in  every  month  not  containing  the  letter  R,  such  as ; 
May,  June,  July  and  August,  and  serve  Little  Neck  clams  instead. 

SOUPS. 

Soups  are  served  after  the  oysters.  One  clear  and  one  thick  soup  should  be  selected  but  if 
only  one  is  needed,  give  the  preference  to  the  clear  soup. 

HORS-D\EUVRE,    SIDE  OR  LIGHT  DISHES. 

Hot  hors-d'oauvre  are,  generally,  timbales,  croustades,  cromesquis,  palmettes,  mousselines, 
bouchees,  cannelons,  cassolettes,  rissoles,  etc.  With  the  same  course  serve  cold  side  dishes,  such 
as  olives,  radishes,  canapes,  caviare,  pickled  tunny,  anchovies,  etc. 

In  the  French  service,  the  fish  and  the  solid  joints  come  under  the  head  of  releve"s  or  removes. 
In  the  American  and  English  service,  first  comes  the  fish,  then  the  removes. 

FISH. 

If  the  fish  be  boiled  or  braized,  add  potatoes  to  the  menu;  if  broiled  or  sauted,  some  cucumber 
salad;  and,  if  fried,  serve  plain  or  with  a  light  sauce. 

REMOVES  OR  RELEVES. 

The  releves  or  solid  joints  are  composed  of  saddles,  eiiher  of  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  venison  and 
antelope,  or  else  beef  tenderloins  or  middle  short  loins.  Turkey,  goose,  capon,  pullets,  ducks,  etc., 
may  be  served,  accompanied  by  one  or  two  vegetables. 

ENTREES. 

Place  on  the  bill  of  fare  first  the  heaviest  entree,  and  conclude  with  the  lightest;  they  must 
be  previously  cut  up  so  as  to  avoid  carving.  No  fish  figures  in  the  American  service  as  an  entree, 
but  terrapin  or  crabs  may  be  allowed;  also  lobsters,  shrimps,  frogs,  croquettes,  etc. 

Each  entree  should  be  accompanied  by  a  vegetable,  served  separately,  except  when  it  is  one  of 
those  described  above,  such  as  terrapin,  etc. 

PUNCH  OR  SHERBETS. 

A  punch  or  sherbet  is  always  served  after  the  entrees  and  before  the  roast;  do  not  make  an 
extra  heading  on  the  menu  for  these,  only  placing  them  on  a  line  by  themselves,  for  instance: 
Roman  punch  or  American  sherbet. 

ROASTS. 

Roasts  are  served  after  the  sherbet;  a  game  roast  is  usually  preferred,  but  poultry,  either 
truffled  or  not,  may  be  substituted:  such  as  turkey,  capon,  pullet,  duck,  guinea-fowl,  squabs,  etc.; 
also  roasted  butcher's  meat;  but  game  is  usually  considered  to  be  more  choice. 

COLD   DISHES. 

Cold  dishes  come  after  the  roast,  and  before  the  hot  dessert;  they  are  served  with  green  salads; 
terrines  of  foies-gras  and  boned  turkey  are  also  served  as  a  second  roast.  (In  the  French  service 
these  cold  dishes  are  classified  as  the  last  entree.) 

HOT  SWEET  DISHES  OR  ENTREMETS. 

These  appear  after  the  roast;  they  are  composed  of  puddings,  crusts,  fried  creams,  fritters, 
pancakes,  borders,  omelets,  and  souffles,  and  form  a  separate  course  by  themselves. 

COLD  SWEET   DISHES  OR   ENTREMETS. 

The  cold  sweet  entremets  come  after  the  hot  and  are  composed  of  jellies,  bavarois,  creams, 
blanc-manges,  rnace'doines,  charlottes  and  large  cakes,  and  form  another  course. 

DESSERT. 

After  the  cold  entremets  come  the  dessert,  composed  of  cheese,  fresh  fruits,  preserved  fruits, 
cakes,  jams,  dried  fruits,  candied  fruits,  bonbons,  mottoes,  papillotes,  victorias,  pyramids,  frozen 
puddings,  plombieres,  ices,  ice  cream  and  small  fancy  cakes,  then  the  coffee  and  cordials. 


TABLE    SERVICE. 


SERVICE  OP  WINES  AND  CORDIALS  (Service  des  Vins  et  Liqueurs). 

The  steward  must  inform  and  specify  to  the  butler  the  wine  to  be  served  at  each  separate 
course.  However  important  the  dinner  may  be,  still  decanters  of  ordinary  red  and  white  wine 
must  be  placed  on  the  table.  The  selection  of  the  finer  wines  is  the  host's  duty,  he  making  bis 
choice  when  ordering  the  bill  of  fare. 

The  steward's  duty  is  to  see  that  the  wines  are  served  at  a  proper  temperature. 

All  white  wines  must  be  served  cold. 

Sherry  and  Xeres  cool. 

Bordeaux  between  55  and  60  degrees,  Fahrenheit,  according  to  its  growth. 

Burgundy  between  50  and  55  degrees. 

Champagnes,  cold  or  iced,  or  in  sherbets. 

Dessert  wines  cool. 

For  choosing  wines  consult  the  table  on  wines  of  Delmonico's  cellar.     (No.  3709.) 

Russian  Sideboards. — Absinthe,  Vermuth  Bitters,  Kumrnel,  Mineral  Waters,  including  Apol- 
linaris,  Clysmic,  St.  Galmier  and  Vichy. 

FIRST   SERVICE. 

With  Oysters. — Sauterne,  Barsac,  Graves,  Mont  Kachet,  Chablis. 

After  the  Soup. — Madeira,  Sherry  or  Xeres. 

With  Fish. — (Rhine  wines)  Johannisberger,  Marcobrunner,  Hochheimer,  Laubenheimer,  Lieb- 
fraumilch,  Steinberger.  (Moselle)  Brauneberger,  Zeltinger,  Berncasteler. 

With  Removes. — Cote  St.  Jacques,  Moulin-a-vent,  Macon,  Clos  de  Vougeot,  Beaune. 

With  Entrees. — St.  Emilion,  Medoc  du  Bordelais,  St.  Julien.  Dry  champagnes  for  certain 
countries. 

Iced  Punches  and  Sherbets,  Rum,  Madeira. 

SECOND  SERVICE. 

With  Roasts. — (Burgundies)  Pommard,  Nuits,  Gorton,  Chambertin,  Romance  Conti. 

Cold  Roasts. — Vin  de  Faille,  Steinberger. 

With  Hot  Desserts. — (Bordeaux)  Chateau  Margaux,  Leoville,  Laffitte,  Chateau  Larose,  Pontet- 
Canet,  St.  Pierre,  Cotes  de  Rhone,  Hermitage  and  C6te-R6tie.  (Red  Champagne)  Bouzy,  Verzenay, 
Porto  Premiere. 

THIRD    SERVICE. 

With  Dessert. — (Burgundy)  Volnay,  Mousseux.  (Champagnes)  Delmonico,  Roederer,  Ros6 
Mousseux,  Pommery,  Cliquot,  Perrier-Jouet,  Moe't,  Mumm. 

Wine  Liquors. — Muscatel,  Malaga,  Alicante,  Malvoisie  of  Madeira,  Lacryma  Chris ti,  red  and 
white  Cape,  Tokay,  Constance,  Schiraz. 

Cordials. — Curacoa,  Kirsch,  Cognac,  Chartreuse,  Maraschino,  Prunelle,  Anisette,  Benedic- 
tine. 

Beers.  —Bass'  Ales,  Porter,  Tivoli,  Milwaukee. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


WINES  AND  LIQUOES  USUALLY  GALLED  TOR  (Vins  et  Liqueurs  Gfoeralement  Servis). 

A  DINNER  OF  AMERICANS. 

EECEPTION-ROOM. 

Sherry,  Bitters, 

DINNER  WINES. 

Haut  Sauterne,  Amontillado,  Sherry, 

Perrier-Jouet  Brut, 

A  DINNER  OF  FRENCHMEN. 

RECEPTION-ROOM. 

Sherry  and  Bitters,  Vermuth, 

DINNER  WINES. 

Graves,  Xeres,  Lafaurie,  St.  Pierre, 

Beaujolais,  Liquors. 

A  DINNER  OF  GERMANS. 
No  wines  or  mineral- waters  in  the  reception-room. 

DINNER  WINES. 

Niersteiner,  Sherry,  Hochheimer,  St.  Estephe, 

Pommery  Sec.  Beaune,  Liquors. 

American  service,  like  the  Russian,  must  be  served  quickly  and  hot.  As  easily  understood  by 
the  following  card,  a  dinner  of  ten  minute  intervals  can  be  served  with  fourteen  courses  in  two 
hours  and  twenty  minutes  and  if  at  eight  minute  intervals,  in  one  hour  and  fifty-two  minutes,  the 
same  as  an  eight  course  dinner  of  ten  minute  intervals  will  take  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  so 
at  eight  minute  intervals  it  will  take  one  hour  and  four  minutes. 


Cocktails. 

Barsac,  Pontet  Canet, 

Liquors. 


Absinthe. 


Yellow  Cliquot, 


1 

2 
8 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 

14 

Figure  1  —  36  covers. 
10  minutes.      2  hours    20 
8  minutes.      1  hour    51. 

Figure  2—24  covers. 
10  minutes.     2  hours    10. 
8  minutes.    1  hour    44. 

Figure  3—16  covers. 
10  minutes.     2  hours.    — 
8  minutes.    1  hour    36. 

Figure  4  —  12  covers. 
10  minutes.      1  hour     50. 
8  minutes.      1  hour     28. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 
S.  D.  hot  and  cold. 
2  Fish,  potatoes. 
1  Remove,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Punch. 
1  or  2  Roasts. 
1  or  2  Colds,  salad. 
1  Hot  sweet  dessert. 
1  or  2  Cold  sweet  des'rts 
(  1  or  2  Ices. 
{  Dessert. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 
S   D.  hot  and  cold. 
1  Fish,  potatoes. 
1  Remove,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 
S.  D.  hot  and  cold. 
1  Fish,  potatoes. 
1  Remove,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 
S.  D.  hot  and  cold. 
1  Fish,  potatoes. 
1  Remove,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 
1  Entree,  vegetables. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast. 
1  Cold  salad. 
1  Hot  sweet  dessert. 
2  Cold  sweet  desserts. 
(  2  Ices. 
|  Dessert. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Hot  sweet  dessert. 
2  Cold  sweet  desserts. 
(  2  Ices. 
j  Dessert. 

1  Hot  dessert. 

(  1  Ice. 
(  Dessert. 

1 
2 
8 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
18 

14 

Figure  5—10  covers. 
10  minutes.  1  hour  42. 
8  minutes.  1  hour  20. 

Figure  6  —  8  covers. 
16  minutes.  1  hour    SO. 
8  minutes.  1  hour  12. 

Figure  ~  —  6  covers. 
16  minutes.   1  hour   20. 
8  minutes.   1  hour  10. 

Figure  8  —  4  covers. 
10  minutes.     1  hour  10. 
8  minutes.                56. 

Figure  9  —  4  covers. 
10  minutes.        1  hour. 
8  minutes.               48. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 
S.  D.  hot  and  cold. 
1  Fish,  potatoes. 
1  Remove,  veg'bles. 
1  Entree,  veg'bles. 

Oysters. 
2  Soups. 

Oysters. 
1  Soup. 

Oysters. 
1  Soup. 

Oysters. 
1  Soup. 

1  Fish,  potatoes. 

1  Fish,  potatoes. 

1  Fish,  potatoes. 

1  Fish,  potatoes. 

1  Entree,  veg'bles. 
1  Entree,  veg'bles. 

1  Entree,  veg'bles. 

1  Entree,  veg'bles. 

2  Entree,  veg'bles. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Punch. 
1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Roast,  salad. 

1  Hot  sweet  dess'rt. 

1  Hot  sweet  dess'rt. 

1  Hot  sweet  dess'rt. 

(  1  Ice. 
|  Dessert. 

(  1  Ice. 
(  Dessert. 

(  1  Ice. 
\  Dessert. 

j  1  Ice. 
i  Dessert. 

Dessert. 

TABLE    SERVICE.  5 

THE  DINNER  TABLE,  RECEPTION  TABLE  SERVICE  AND  WINES.    (Le  Convert,  Reception, 

Service  de  Table  et  les  Vins.) 

TABLE  SERVICE  FOR  TWENTY-FOUR  PERSONS. 

An  oblong  shaped  table  is  preferable  for  a  large  dinner  party,  the  feet  being  less  incommo- 
dious; it  must  at  least  be  six  or  seven  feet  wide  and  twenty-two  feet  long,  with  rounded  ends.  This 
shaped  table  is  most  generally  used,  although  some  prefer  round,  or  horse-shoe  ones,  or  an  oblong 
with  square  ends,  and  many  other  fanciful  shapes,  depending  entirely  on  the  size  of  the  room  and 
the  taste  of  the  host. 

Tables  can  be  lengthened  according  to  the  number  of  seats  desired ;  the  space  allowed  for 
each  guest  is,  for  a  square  table  with  square  ends,  two  feet  apart  between  each  plate;  when  the 
ends  are  curved,  the  space  for  the  corners  must  be  twenty-two  inches  apart,  and  if  entirely  round, 
twenty  inches. 

Cover  a  table  twenty-two  by  seven  with  a  felt  cover  made  for  the  purpose,  then  over  this  lay  a 
tablecloth  twenty-four  feet  long  and  eight  or  nine  feet  wide,  being  careful  that  it  is  exceedingly 
white  and  smooth,  having  no  creases  whatever. 

Fold  a  well  starched,  large  napkin,  pinch  it  triangularly,  and  place  it  in  the  center  of  the 
table;  have  twenty-four  smaller  napkins  also  well  starched,  folded  and  pinched,  and  place  these  at 
the  edge  of  the  table  and  on  each  one  set  a  plate  with  another  napkin  on  top,  folded  either  shaped 
as  a  boat,  a  tulip,  or  any  other  pretty  design,  or  else  the  napkin  may  be  simply  folded  square. 

The  bread  is  placed  either  under  the  folds  or  in  the  center  of  the  napkin,  according  to  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  displayed,  or  on  a  small  plate  to  the  left  of  the  cover.  Another  way  is  to 
place  the  bread  in  front  of  the  napkin. 

On  the  left  of  each  plate,  lay  a  table  fork  and  also  a  fish  fork. 

On  the  right  set  a  table  knife,  a  silver  fish  knife,  a  soup  spoon,  also  a  small  fork  for  oysters  or 
Little  Neck  clams 

In  front,  but  slightly  toward  the  right  of  each  plate,  set  a  small  individual  salt-cellar.  The 
double  silver  pepper  castors  containing  black  and  red  pepper  are  distributed  two  on  each  side,  and 
two  at  each  end  of  the  table,  with  eight  single  ones  between  the  double  ones. 

Glasses  are  placed  in  a  semi-circle  either  in  front  of  the  plate  or  else  on  the  right;  arrange 
these  according  to  the  courses  to  be  served.  First,  water  glass;  second,  white  wine;  third,  sherry; 
fourth,  Rhine  wine;  fifth,  champagne;  and  sixth,  Bordeaux. 

Before  serving  the  entrees  remove  the  white  wine,  Sherry  and  Rhine  wine  glasses  and 
replace  them  by  fine  Bordeaux  and  Burgundy  glasses.  Glasses  intended  for  dessert  wines  and 
liquors,  are  only  put  on  the  table  with  the  dessert. 

THE   CENTER   LINE   OF   THE   TABLE. 

In  the  center  of  the  table  have  a  large  piece  of  silverware  decorated  with  plants,  ferns  and 
natural  flowers,  or  else  a  high  vase  or  simply  a  basket  of  flowers.  These  baskets  or  other  decora- 
tions may  be  filled  with  one,  or  several  kinds  of  variegated  flowers,  mingling  red  and  white,  scarlet 
and  lilac,  or  Parma  violets,  or  tulips  and  orchids,  these  produce  a  brilliant  effect.  (The  entire 
house,  staircases,  halls,  etc.,  may  also  be  decorated  with  plants,  palms,  lemon  and  orange  trees, 
or  rubber  plants.  Mantels  and  mirrors  to  be  also  wreathed  with  flowers,  or  else  scattered  about  in 
clusters,  and  have  hanging  baskets  tastefully  arranged  in  prominent  corners,  so  as  to  add  to  the 
general  beautiful  effect.) 

On  each  side  of  the  center  piece  and  on  the  center  line  have  two  prettily  arranged  baskets  con- 
taining seasonable  or  hot-house  fruits;  on  each  side  of  these,  set  an  ornamental  piece,  either  made 
of  nougat,  gum-paste  or  sugar  candy,  or  should  these  high  pieces  not  be  desirable,  others  may  be 
substituted  either  of  bronze,  or  else  stands  covered  with  flowers,  etc. 

On  each  end  of  these  pieces  set  either  candelabras  or  lamps,  and  beyond  these  high  stands  of 
graduated  tiers  filled  with  bonbons,  cornucopias,  Victorias,  bonbon  boxes,  etc.,  all  of  them  form- 
ing the  center  line  of  the  table.  Around  this  line,  and  at  about  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  from 
the  edge,  draw  a  line  the  same  shape  as  the  table,  and  on  this  place  decanter  stands  for  decan- 
tered  wine;  two  for  sherry,  four  for  white  wine,  and  four  for  red  Bordeaux,  making  ten  in  all,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  decanter  stands  for  decanters  containing  water,  or  instead  of  ten,  twenty- 
four  smaller  ones  may  be  substituted,  one  for  each  person. 

Place  at  intervening  spaces,  two  compote  dishes  with  stewed  fruits,  four  stands  for  small 
fancy  cakes,  two  compote  dishes  for  candied  or  dried  fruits,  nuts,  etc.,  or  else  fresh  strawberries, 
raspberries  or  mulberries,  if  in  season,  a  saucerful  for  each  person,  and  finish  by  interlacing 
through  these  dishes  as  well  as  the  decanters,  strings  of  smilax  or  any  other  pretty  creeping  vine, 


6  THE    EPICUREAN. 

following  around  about  twenty-four  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  table;  set  into  this  verdure  at 
various  parts,  clusters  of  natural  flowers.  A  table  arranged  according  to  this  description  will  be 
found  to  have  a  most  charming  and  pleasing  effect. 

The  diagram  of  the  table  should  be  obtained,  and  have  the  names  of  each  guest  tastefully 
written  on  fancy  cards ;  lay  one  of  these  on  the  right  hand  glass  of  each  person,  in  a  promi- 
nent manner  so  that  it  can  be  read  from  a  distance  which  will  greatly  facilitate  the  seating  of  the 
guests.  Procure  bouquets  of  flowers  for  the  ladies,  set  in  fancy  vases,  tying  them  with  ribbons, 
and  having  a  pin  attached  to  enable  them  to  fasten  them  on  to  their  dresses;  gentlemen's  button- 
hole bouquets  should  also  be  placed  in  vases.  All  these  flowers  must  be  in  front,  but  slightly 
toward  the  left  of  each  person. 

The  bills  of  fare  or  menus  should  be  placed  on  the  left  side,  either  in  silver  stands  (Fig.  197), 
or  set  beside  the  plate. 

Tne  host  should  always  be  seated  so  as  to  face  the  door  leading  into  the  dining-room.  The 
hostess  on  the  other  end  of  the  table  directly  opposite,  their  respective  seats  being  at  the  top  and 
bottom  of  the  table.  The  seat  of  honor  for  a  lady  is  on  the  right  hand  of  the  host,  and  naturally 
on  the  right  hand  of  the  hostess  for  a  gentleman.  The  left  hand  may  also  be  utilized  as  seats  of 
honor  but  of  minor  importance.  A  dining  room  should  be  kept  at  a  comfortable  temperature. 
The  sideboard  should  be  placed  at  one  side  of  the  table,  and  on  this  or  in  the  drawers  and  com- 
partments everything  must  be  arranged  in  thorough  order  so  as  to  have  them  handy,  thus  avoiding 
all  confusion  during  dinner. 

The  entire  dessert  service  including  wines  to  be  arranged  tastefully  on  the  sideboard,  giv- 
ing a  very  pretty  effect  to  the  room.  A  service  table  must  either  be  in  the  dining-room  behind 
a  screen  or  in  a  pantry  close  by;  it  must  contain  one  or  several  carving  boards,  sundry  knives  and 
forks,  ladles,  chafing  dishes,  etc.  The  service  must  be  rapid  and  the  dishes  served  hot;  avoid 
having  anything  cooked  in  advance  except  the  large  pieces.  Entries  and  all  smaller  dishes  should 
be  prepared  according  to  their  successive  order,  as  the  dinner  progresses,  at  an  interval  of  two 
or  three  courses,  which  means  about  ten  or  twenty  minutes  apart.  A  good  steward  can  always 
manage  to  protract  the  dinner  in  case  the  cook  is  behind  time,  but  it  is  his  duty  to  inform  those  in 
the  kitchen  at  least  ten  minutes  beforehand  so  as  to  prevent  any  possible  delay;  he  must  also  have 
a  duplicate  bill  of  fare  from  the  kitchen  identical  with  the  one  on  the  table,  and  classified  accord- 
ing to  the  service,  so  as  to  be  able  to  consult  it  in  order  to  know  exactly  which  dish  follows  the  other. 

When  the  dinner  is  ready,  the  steward  must  place  his  help  in  their  respective  posi- 
tions, and  give  them  final  instructions  regarding  their  duties;  they  should  be  attired  in  dress 
suits,  white  ties  and  gloves,  and  wear  no  jewelry  whatever.  In  order  to  serve  a  ceremonial  dinner 
for  twenty-four  persons,  it  will  require:  a  steward,  a  butler,  a  carver  and  six  waiters;  carefully 
intrusting  the  care  of  the  wines  to  the  most  intelligent,  and  the  carving  to  the  most  expert;  the 
remaining  six  being  for  the  special  table  service,  they  must  remain  in  their  respective  places  to  be 
at  the  call  of  the  guests  should  their  services  be  required. 

RECEPTION. 

The  gentlemen  are  to  be  received  by  a  waiter,  who  before  introducing  them  into  the  reception 
room,  takes  their  overeoats,  canes,  hats,  umbrellas,  etc.,  leaving  these  articles  in  a  place  set 
aside  for  this  purpose,  near  the  reception  room,  then  hands  each  gentleman  an  envelope  addressed 
to  himself  in  which  there  will  be  found  a  card  bearing  the  name  of  the  lady  he  is  to  escort  to  the 
dining-room,  and  who  is  to  be  seated  on  his  right  hand  during  dinner. 

Two  other  waiters  attired  in  full  dress,  introduce  the  gentlemen  into  the  reception  room  ad- 
joining the  dining-room,  the  doors  to  the  latter  being  closed;  in  the  reception  room  there  should 
be  a  small  Russian  buffet,  or  simply  serve  some  sherry,  Xeres,  bitters,  vermuth  and  absinthe,  to 
be  handed  round  on  trays  to  each  guest  as  he  arrives. 

It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  have  a  lady's  maid  to  receive  the  ladies,  lay  aside  their  outer  gar- 
ments, or  any  article  they  may  desire  to  confide  to  her  care;  these  must  be  arranged  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  be  easily  returned  to  their  respective  owners. 

The  maid  must  remain  and  wait,  in  order  to  be  continually  at  the  disposal  of  the  lady  guests. 

"When  all  the  invited  guests  have  arrived  and  been  duly  introduced,  the  dinner  hour  having 
struck,  the  steward  opens  the  dining-room  doors  bows  to  the  host,  this  being  the  signal  to  an- 
nounce that  dinner  is  served. 

The  hostess  enters  the  dining-room  first,  on  the  arm  of  the  gentleman  in  whose  honor  the  din- 
ner is  given,  followed  by  the  other  guests,  the  host  being  last.  Each  one  sits  down  at  the  seats 
indicated  on  the  cards,  and  when  all  are  comfortably  seated  the  dinner  begins. 


TABLE    SERVICE.  7 

The  service  must  be  performed  silently,  a  look  alone  from  the  steward  sufficing  for  each  man 
to  do  his  duty.  Every  article  handed  round  must  be  on  a  silver  salver. 

THE   SERVICE. 

Oysters. — Little  Neck  clams  are  passed  around,  beginning  on  one  side  by  the  lady  on  the  right 
and  the  other  side  by  the  gentleman  on  the  right,  these  being  the  most  distinguished  guests  ; 
change  this  method  at  each  course,  those  being  served  last  before,  being  the  first  now. 

The  butler  will  pour  out  the  Chablis,  stating  the  name  of  each  wine  he  serves. 

Soup.— There  are  usually  two  soups  to  select  from.  While  serving  green  turtle  offer  at  the 
same  time  lemon  cut  in  quarters. 

Sherry  should  be  served  with  this  course. 

Side  Dishes. — Pass  hot  hors-d'oeuvre  ;  these  are  served  on  warm  plates.  Serve  the  cold 
hors  d'oeuvre  at  the  same  time,  and  should  the  guest  prefer  the  latter,  remove  the  hot  plate  at 
once  and  substitute  a  cold  one  for  it. 

Sherry  or  Xeres  should  accompany  this  course. 

Fish.  — If  there  be  two  kinds  of  fish,  offer  the  selection,  and  pass  round  the  one  preferred;  should 
it  be  boiled  or  braized  fish,  have  potatoes  served  at  the  same  time;  if  broiled  or  sauted  thinly  sliced 
seasoned  fresh  cucumbers  must  accompany  it,  and  if  fried  fish  such  as  whitebait,  serve  with  thin 
slices  of  buttered  brown  bread  and  quarters  of  lemon. 

Serve  Rhine  wine  or  white  Bordeaux. 

Removes  or  Solid  Joints. — The  removes  may  be  placed  on  the  table  before  being  taken  off  for 
carving;  if  it  be  a  saddle  of  venison,  it  should  be  cooked  rare,  passing  currant  jelly  at  the  same 
time.  A  saddle  of  mutton  must  also  be  rare  and  very  hot;  it  can  be  cut  lengthwise  at  an  angle  in 
thin  slices  or  across,  although  the  first  way  is  preferable;  serve  both  these  on  very  hot  plates,  and 
have  one  or  two  vegetables  accompanying  them. 

Serve  champagne. 

Entrees. — The  entrees  must  be  served  one  after  the  other  without  placing  them  on  the  table 
beforehand;  they  must  be  served  on  hot  plates  with  one  vegetable  for  each  entree,  to  be  either 
passed  round  separately  or  else  carefully  laid  on  the  same  plate,  unless  it  is  desired  that  they  be 
dressed;  in  this  case  dress  and  present  to  each  guest.  Serve  Bordeaux  at  the  first  entree,  and  an 
extra  quality  of  wine  at  the  last ;  continue  serving  champagne  to  those  who  prefer  to  drink  it  until 
the  roast. 

INTERVAL. — SECOND  SERVICE. 

Iced  Punch  or  Sherbet. — Should  there  be  no  ladies  present,  cigarettes  can  be  handed  round  at 
the  same  time.  Remove  the  two  white  wine  and  sherry  glasses,  and  replace  them  by  those  used  for 
Burgundy,  also  remove  the  cold  side  dishes.  Ten  to  fifteen  minutes  must  now  be  allowed  between 
the  courses. 

Roasts. — The  roast  may  be  displayed  on  the  table  before  carving,  this  being  frequently 
requested  by  epicures;  should  there  be  several  roasts,  carve  them  all  at  the  same  time  and  pass 
them  round  according  to  desire,  adding  a  little  watercress  for  poultry,  and  should  there  be  can- 
vas-back duck,  let  currant  jelly  and  fried  hominy  be  served  with  also  a  mayonnaise  of  celery. 

Serve  the  Burgundy  from  bottles  laid  flat  in  baskets  (Fig.  767)  holding  the  basket  in  the  right 
hand  and  a  white  napkin  in  the  left. 

Cold. — Serve  the  cold  dishes  after  the  roast,  these  to  be  either  goose  livers  (foies-gras)  with 
truffles  or  boned  turkey.  The  foies-gras  must  have  a  spoon  to  remove  it  with,  and  the  boned 
turkey  be  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  offer  both  to  the  guest  at  the  same  time,  accompanied  by  green 
salads. 

Serve  Johannisberg  or  Vin  de  Faille. 

Now  remove  everything  from  the  table  with  the  exception  of  the  dessert,  and  to  avoid  using  a 
brush  lift  up  the  extra  napkins  in  front  of  each  person,  folding  them  in  two  so  that  the  table  is 
neat  and  clean  without  being  obliged  to  use  a  brush  or  scraper.  Lay  the  dessert  plates  on  the 
table,  and  continue  the  service  for  the  hot  dessert. 

Hot  Sweet  Entremets. — Make  a  distinct  service  for  the  hot  entremets,  then  serve  the  cheese. 

Serve  a  fine  Laffitte  Bordeaux. 

Cold  Sweet  Entremets. — Make  another  service  for  the  cold  entremets  and  ices. 

Dessert. — Instead  of  serving  the  cheese  after  the  hot  entremets  it  may  be  done  now,  which  is 
in  fact  its  proper  place;  pass  around  the  fresh  fruits,  stewed,  candied  and  dried  fruits,  bonbon 
cases,  bonbons,  mottoes,  ices,  strawberries  and  raspberries  with  cream  when  in  season,  passing 
cakes  around  at  the  same  time. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Serve  Madeira  wine,  Muscatel  and  Frontignan,  also  plates  of  salted  almonds. 

CONCLUSION  OF  THE  DINNER. 

It  is  now  time  for  the  hostess  to  bow,  push  back  her  chair  and  prepare  to  rise,  this  being  a 
signal  for  the  ladies  to  retire:  after  they  have  returned  to  the  drawing-room,  coffee  is  passed 
round  on  a  salver  containing  spoons,  hot  water,  sugar  and  cream.  A  few  moments  later  another 
waiter  comes  forward  with  an  empty  tray  to  remove  the  cups  the  ladies  hand  him. 

The  gentlemen  partake  of  their  coffee  in  the  dining-room;  at  the  same  time  servp  them  Kirsch, 
brandy,  chartreuse,  cigars  and  cigarettes.  The  doors  are  closed  and  the  ladies  and  waiters  have  re- 
tired so  as  to  allow  the  gentlemen  more  freedom  to  talk  among  themselves,  still  it  will  be  necessary 
to  enter  the  drawing  room  and  dining-room  occasionally  in  order  to  see  whether  anything  be 
needed  so  as  to  avoid  being  called  as  much  as  possible. 

After  half  an  hour  or  so,  the  gentlemen  will  rejoin  the  ladies  in  the  drawing-room  and  then 
tea  is  served.  The  tea  service  is  accomplished  by  passing  around  on  trays,  tea,  sugar,  hot  water, 
cream,  cups,  spoons  and  slices  of  lemon.  A  few  moments  later  another  waiter  removes  the  empty 
cups  on  a  tray. 

After  the  tea  the  service  is  considered  to  be  ended. 


FRENCH  SERVICE  (Service  a  la  Tranpaise). 

There  are  two  different  services  in  use:    The  French  and  the  Russian. 

Although  recognizing  the  priority  of  both  of  these  services,  it  will  be  well  to  mention  the  dif- 
ference existing  between  them  and  the  English  and  the  American  service;  first,  they  differ  in  the 
classification  of  the  bills  of  fare  and  certain  changes  in  the  table  service,  these  alone  are  sufficient 
to  be  interesting. 

The  old  style  of  French  service  threatens  to  disappear  entirely  and  is  rarely  used,  except  on 
very  rare  occasions. 

The  three  services  placed  on  the  table,  one  after  the  other,  had  certainly  the  advantage  of 
displaying  the  culinary  labor  as  well  as  the  most  variegated  and  rare  products  by  exhibiting  them 
in  all  their  profuseness.  But  the  great  inconvenience  is  the  preparation  of  dishes  beforehand  in 
the  kitchen  in  order  to  have  each  service  ready  at  once  and  to  keep  them  hot  in  heaters  before 
beginning  to  serve  the  dinner. 

The  dishes  for  the  first  course  are  placed  on  tne  table  in  chafing  dishes  provided  with  covers, 
to  be  lifted  off  when  the  guests  are  seated,  and  left  on  the  table  till  ready  to  be  carved. 

Of  course  this  inconvenience  is  somewhat  remedied  by  keeping  the  heaters  and  chafing  dishes 
at  a  given  heat,  and  there  must  be  placed  near  the  table,  either  behind  a  screen  in  the  dining- 
room  or  else  in  an  adjoining  pantry,  a  bain-marie  with  all  the  necessary  sauces  required  for  the 


TABLE    SERVICE.  9 

dinner,  and  as  soon  as  the  meats  are  carved,  each  one  is  to  be  covered  with  its  respective  sauce 
before  being  handed  around. 

But  notwithstanding  all  possible  care  and  attention  the  entrees  are  apt  to  lose  much  of  their 
finer  qualities  by  the  very  act  of  being  cooked  and  dressed  beforehand,  then  kept  hot  in  these 
heaters  or  chafing  dishes. 

Still  this  could  scarcely  have  been  the  sole  cause  for  abandoning  the  old  system,  for  it  con- 
tinued in  usage  for  several  centuries.  "We  are,  however,  obliged  to  recognize  that  first-class 
families  have  ceased  to  make  a  display  of  the  great  luxuriousness  indulged  in,  in  the  past;  to-day 
they  are  more  restrained,  the  help  less  numerous  and  the  chief  cook  frequently  alone  with  one 
kitchen  assistant,  having  no  longer  an  extra  man  for  pastry,  confectionery  and  ices.  The  chef 
himself  must  see  to  the  preparation  of  the  pastry,  ices  and  desserts.  There  is  now  scarcely  to  be 
found  any  house  where  for  twelve  persons  they  employ  a  chef,  an  assistant  and  a  pastry  cook  and 
the  remainder  of  the  help  corresponding  to  this  great  amount  of  luxury. 

The  bills  of  fare  are  simpler;  instead  of  dressing  and  arranging  the  service  on  the  table  itself, 
many  houses  have  a  mixed  service;  this  is  made  by  presenting  the  dishes  on  the  table,  then 
removing  them  to  be  carved. 

The  general  desire  of  the  day  is  to  dine  quicker;  taste  changes  with  the  fashion.  The  old 
French  service  is  fast  disappearing,  and  as  it  becomes  more  simple  it  gradually  evolves  into  a 
mixed  Russian  and  French  service. 

FRENCH  SERVICE  FOR  24  PERSONS  (Service  a  la  Frangaise  pour  24  Converts). 

The  first  service  is  composed  of  hors-d'oeuvre  (side  dishes),  two  soups,  two  removes,  four  hot 
entries,  or  two  cold  and  two  hot  entrees. 

Remove  the  cold  hors-d'oeuvre;  serve  the  punch  or  sherbet. 

The  second  service  is  composed  of  two  roasts  to  take  the  place  of  the  removes;  four  entremets, 
two  being  of  vegetables,  one  hot  sweet  entremets  and  one  cold;  these  to  replace  the  entrees;  two 
entremets  cakes  to  take  the  place  of  the  cold  entrees. 

Prepare  the  table  for  the  dessert. 

The  third  service,  or  dessert,  is  composed  of  two  shelved  stands  filled  with  bonbons,  victorias, 
bonbon  boxes,  cossacks,  two  low  stands  or  drums  containing  small  fancy  cakes,  two  basketfuls  of 
fresh  fruits,  two  assorted  compotes,  one  orange  jelly,  one  Bar-le-Duc  jelly  and  two  cheeses;  two 
fancy  pieces  of  nougat  or  candied  sugar  to  replace  the  entremets  cakes. 

The  wines  should  be  selected  and  served  as  indicated  in  another  chapter,  according  to  the  taste 
and  desire  of  the  host. 

FRENCH  SERVICE,  DINNER  FOR  24  PERSONS-TO  SET  THE  TABLE  (Service  a  la  Fra^aise, 

Diner  de  24  Converts— Le  Convert), 

The  table  must  be  sixteen  to  eighteen  feet  long  and  six  to  seven  feet  wide,  with  rounded  cor- 
ners, covered  with  a  table-cloth  and  having  exactly  in  the  center  a  high  stand  or  epergne,  or  piece 
of  silverware  or  bronze,  filled  with  flowers.  Continue  the  middle  line  with  candelabras  or 
lamps;  leave  a  place  for  the  chafing  dishes  and  between  these  arrange  the  cold  hors-d'oeuvre. 
Set  the  plates,  the  glasses  to  form  a  semicircle  in  front;  the  spoons  and  knives  on  the  right  and  the 
forks  on  the  left. 

Commence  serving  the  most  honored  guest  on  each  right  side,  and  begin  each  separate  service 
at  the  person  served  the  last. 

All  the  dishes  intended  for  the  table  should  be  dressed  tastefully  and  the  edges  decorated  with 
open- worked  noodle  borders;  the  meats  laid  symmetrically,  the  borders  to  be  neither  too  high  nor 
too  much  spread  so  that  the  dish  covers  can  fit  on  easily;  light  bread  borders  can  also  be  used. 

Decorate  the  meats  with  trimmed  hatelets  just  before  olacing  them  on  the  table. 

NECESSARY  MATERIAL  FOR  24  PERSONS  (Materiel  Nfcessaire  ponr  24  Converts). 

Let  the  china,  glassware,  silver,  cutlery  and  linen  be  as  much  alike  as  possible,  have  the 
glasses  all  plain  or  cut  of  the  same  pattern  and  shape;  the  china  either  all  white,  colored  or  gilt; 
the  linen  plain  or  damasked  with  large  or  small  designs. 

The  plates  must  be  changed  at  each  service  as  well  as  the  knives  and  forks,  they  must  be 


10 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


washed  immediately  and  used  again  for  the  following  services,  otherwise  there  will  be  as  many 
knives  and  forks  needed  as  plates,  consequently  far  more  material. 

24  soup  plates.  24  dessert  knives  and  forks. 

24  side-dish  plates.  72  large  forks. 

72  dinner  plates.  72  steel  knives. 

48  dessert  plates.  24  silver  or  gilt  knives. 

24  soupspoons.  24  side-dish  knives  and  forks. 

24  coffee  after-dinner  cups.  24  coffeespoons 

Small  salt  cellars  and  pepper  casters,  one  for  each  person. 


12  radish  dishes  for  24  persons. 

A  glass  or  silver  knife  rester  for  each  person. 

8  silver  toothpick  holders. 

24  wine  decanters  and  water  bottles. 

2  soup  tureens. 

2  chafing  dishes  and  covers  for  removes. 

4  chafing  dishes  and  covers  for  entrees. 

2  chafing  dishes  and  covers  for  roasts. 

24  water  glasses. 

24  Chablis  glasses. 

24  Bordeaux  glasses. 

24  Frontignan  glasses. 

24  fine  Bordeaux  glasses. 


2  shelved  stands. 

2  silver  baskets  for  fruits. 

2  drums  for  fancy  cakes. 

2  dishes  for  jellies. 

2  dishes  for  cheese. 

4  compote  stands. 

4  dishes  and  covers  for  vegetables. 

2  dishes  for  cold  entrees. 

24  sherry  glasses. 

24  Burgundy  glasses. 

24  liquor  glasses. 

24  Champagne  flutes  or  goblets. 

24  punch  or  sherbet  glasses. 


Fine  Baccarat  glass  is  the  handsomest;  keep  in  reserve  glasses  of  all  kinds  in  case  of  an 
accident. 

The  oil  and  vinegar  caster,  as  well  as  the  mustard  pot,  are  to  be  passed  around  according  to 
necessity. 


KUSSIAN  SERVICE  (Service  &  la  Eusse). 

The  habit  we  have  of  eating  everything  very  hot  and  very  fast  comes  to  us  from  the  "  Russian 
service:"  it  differs  from  the  French  service  in  the  very  fact  that  nothing  hot  appears  on  the  table, 
everything  is  cut  up  as  needed,  either  in  the  kitchen  or  pantry.  The  carving  should  be  performed 


TABLE    SERVICE.  11 

very  neatly,  having  all  the  pieces  of  even  size  and  placed  at  once  symmetrically  either  in  a  circle  or 
straight  row  on  dishes  for  ten  or  less  persons,  then  passed  round  to  the  guests,  who  help  them- 
selves or  are  helped,  according  to  their  wish. 

As  for  the  solid  joints,  removes  or  roasts,  they  can  be  served  precisely  the  same,  or  else  laid  on 
very  hot  plates  and  handed  directly  to  each  guest.  There  must  be  a  sufficiency  of  every  kind  of 
entree  to  serve  for  every  person  present.  Should  there  be  several  and  a  variety  of  roasts  and  only 
one  service  required,  then  carve  a  third  part  of  each  one,  or  more  of  one  than  the  other  if  certain 
dishes  seem  to  be  preferred.  If  there  be  several  removes  the  same  course  can  be  pursued.  As 
soon  as  one  course  is  being  passed  around,  the  following  one  should  be  brought  from  the  kitchen 
so  that  the  dinner  can  be  served  uninterruptedly  and  eaten  while  hot  and  palatable. 

The  cold  meat  pieces  may  be  dressed  and  arranged  on  the  table  the  same  as  the  candelabras, 
silverware,  bronze  vases  and  flower  baskets,  all  of  these  to  be  in  the  center  line  of  the  table,  leav- 
ing eighteen  inches  of  space  uncovered  between  the  end  of  the  line  and  the  edge  of  the  table; 
between  this  center  line  and  the  edge  draw  a  round  or  oval  or  any  other  desirable  shape  at  eigh- 
teen inches  above  the  edge.  If  there  be  two  cold  meat  pieces  lay  them  on  the  sides  of  the  table 
and  in  the  center  of  the  line,  and  if  four,  then  two  at  the  sides  and  two  at  the  ends  in  the  center, 
if  eight  then  have  four  at  the  corners  between  the  sides  and  ends  on  the  eighteen-inch  line  above 
the  edge;  finish  to  decorate  this  line  with  cold  sweet  dishes,  baskets  of  fresh  fruits,  shelved  stands 
filled  with  bonbons,  cossacks,  Victorias,  drums  containing  small  fancy  cakes,  competed  dried 
fruits,  etc.,  all  these  ornaments  give  the  table  a  charming  effect  and  should  be  arranged 
before  the  guests  enter  the  dining-room. 

The  straight  line  alone  and  the  cold  meat  pieces  can  be  also  arranged,  finishing  at  eighteen 
inches  from  the  edge  with  garlands  of  leaves  and  flowers  instead  of  the  dessert,  and  when  ready  to 
serve  the  cold  pieces,  take  them  off  and  replace  them  by  the  taller  desserts,  shelved  stands  and 
drums,  ranging  the  others  here  and  there,  half  on  either  side  of  the  table  between  the  middle  line 
and  the  flowers. 

Hot  sweet  entremets  are  always  served  as  extras  or  "  flying  dishes,"  after  the  vegetables. 

The  service  is  far  less  sumptuous  and  elegant  than  the  French  one,  yet  it  pleases  many  and 
is  very  fashionable  at  the  present  time.  The  remainder  of  the  service  is  exactly  like  the  French. 

The  old-fashioned  bills  of  fare  for  the  Russian  service  were  classed  differently  to  those  of 
to-day;  further  on  they  will  be  found  in  great  variety,  appertaining  to  different  epochs  and  a 
selection  can  be  made  of  those  most  suitable;  the  service  remains  invariably  the  same,  the  only 
change  being  in  the  bill  of  fare. 

It  is  the  custom  in  Russia  to  serve  the  iced  punches  or  sherbets  after  the  fish,  but  it  is  cer- 
tainly preferable  to  wait  until  the  entrees  are  removed. 

SUPPER.    (Le  Souper.) 
"  To  sleep  easily  one  must  sup  lightly." 
SUPPER  BUFFET. 

Supper  buffets  are  dressed  on  tables  twelve  to  twenty  feet  long  by  four  to  five  feet  wide  ;  larger 
or  smaller  according  to  the  number  of  guests  and  the  richness  of  the  bill  of  fare.  Be  careful  that 
every  article  on  the  table  shows  to  the  best  advantage,  arranging  each  dish  in  a  tasteful  manner, 
yet  observing  certain  indispensable  rules  so  to  facilitate  the  service  that  the  buffet  can  be  replen- 
ished and  the  dishes  removed  without  the  slightest  confusion.  The  warm  dishes  should  be  served 
continuously  without  any  delay  and  only  a  few  at  the  time.  Place  a  large  piece  of  silverware  in  the 
center  of  the  table  to  contain  fruits,  following  the  middle  line  on  the  length,  then  two  large  bas- 
kets of  flowers  and  two  pieces  either  of  nougat  or  sugar,  both  ornamented  with  candied  fruits, 
then  two  large  cold-meat  pieces  and  two  stands  filled  with  bonbon  boxes,  mottoes,  victorias  and 
bonbons,  afterward  two  candelabras,  and  two  entremets  cakes  to  finish.  In  the  front  place  a 
decorated  salmon,  behind  on  the  other  side  of  the  center  line  stand  the  tenderloin  of  beef,  and  on 
each  side  of  the  fish  and  tenderloin,  two  medium-sized  meat  pieces,  then  the  drums  or  high  stands 
filled  with  small  cakes.  After  this  the  small  cold  entrees,  such  as  sandwiches  and  small  rolls  filled 
with  rillettes;  at  each  end  of  the  table  arrange  the  chicken  and  lobster  salads.  On  one  end  of  the 
table  have  plenty  of  material  handy  (according  to  the  importance  of  the  bill  of  fare),  for  hot 
service;  have  plates,  soup  tureens  and  chafing-dishes;  behind,  near  the  tenderloin  of  beef,  put  the 
ices,  jellies  and  charlottes. 

These  suppers  are  usually  served  after  the  first  part  of  the  dancing  order  is  finished  between 


12  THE    EPICUREAN. 

< 

eleven  o'clock  and  one  in  the  morning.    Frequently  small  tables  are  used  when  there  is  sufficient 
room;  these  are  generally  reserved  for  the  ladies. 

HOT  DISHES. 

First  part. — The  soup  is  either  consomme  in  cups,  or  barley  cream,  or  rice  and  almond  milk. 
These  must  be  perfectly  clear  in  order  to  serve  them  in  cups  the  same  as  the  consomme. 

Oysters  prepared  in  different  styles:  Fricasseed,  Hollandaise,  Bechamel,  poulette,  Viennese, 
crawfish  sauce,  etc.;  oysters  fried  or  stuffed,  small  bouchees  filled  with  salpicon,  chicken  or 
game  croquettes,  sweetbreads,  lobster,  etc.,  Timbales  and  mousselines;  terrapin,  Maryland  or 
Newburg  for  white,  Baltimore  and  Maryland  Club  for  brown;  red-head  ducks  and  canvas-back,  also 
quails  and  squabs  and  sometimes  deviled  crabs,  stuffed  lobsters,  scallops  a  la  Brestoise  or  frog 
croquettes. 

COLD  DISHES. 

Second  part.— Decorate  the  table  with  hors-d'oeuvre  composed  of  radishes,  olives,  celery, 
anchovy  toasts  etc. 

Large  pieces  such  as  a  richly  decorated  salmon,  a  tenderloin  of  beef  garnished  with  vege- 
tables, boned  turkey  and  capon,  ham  stuffed  with  pistachio  nuts  and  truffles,  a  suckling  pig,  a 
boar's  head,  large  dishes  of  turkey  and  capon,  truffled  or  otherwise.  Volieres  of  peacock,  young 
swans,  pheasants  and  guinea  fowls  ornamented  with  their  natural  feathers,  large  terrines  of  Stras- 
burg  foies-gras,  woodcock,  snipe,  reedbirds,  quails,  leverets,  veal  kernels  and  game  "  pains,"  en 
damier;  bastions  of  roast  game  on  croutons  and  garnished  with  fresh  water-cress,  pyramids  of 
lobsters  and  crawfish  and  truffles. 

There  are  a  great  variety  of  elegant  entrees,  and  among  others  the  following  ones  may  bo 
selected: 

Aspics  of  all  kinds,  red  beef  tongue,  foies-gras,  fillets  of  chickens,  oysters,  etc. ;  white  and 
brown  chaufroids  of  partridge  and  chicken,  also  ravigote  ducks,  galantines  of  chicken,  cream  of 
pigeons,  squabs  and  quails  covered  with  chaufroid  and  decorated  with  black  truffles  and  very  green 
pistachio  nuts;  smoked  and  unsmoked  tongue  well  glazed  and  dressed  pyramid  form;  lamb  chops 
au  vert  pre,  ballotines  of  quails  and  squabs,  ducklings  pear  shaped  and  thrushes  a  la  Perigord; 
terrines  of  Nerac  and  ducks'  livers  a  la  Toulouse  and  young  rabbit  a  la  mode  de  Rouen;  pains  of 
chicken  or  game.  Entrees  of  larks  and  reedbirds,  chicken  mayonnaise;  lobster,  shrimp,  crab  and 
salmon  salads,  also  salad  a  la  Russe,  and  at  equal  distances  have  plates  of  small  breads  garnished 
with  rillettes  and  fine  sandwiches. 

Select  from  all  this  gastronomical  wealth  those  dishes  liable  to  satisfy  the  appetite  and  at  the 
same  time  make  a  beautiful  display  on  the  table. 

SWEET  ENTREMETS   AND   DESSERTS. 

Third  part. — Intersperse  among  the  cold  dishes,  liquor  and  fruit  jellies,  bavarois,  "  pains"  of 
rice  puddings,  blanc-manges  and  charlotte  russes,  assorted  creams  and  crowns,  waffles  filled  with 
whipped  cream,  macedoines,  assorted  large  dessert  cakes,  and  timbales  of  waffles,  brisselets  and 
wheelbarrows  of  small  meringues  with  flowers  or  fruits,  horn  of  plenty  and  Sultan  vases,  cherry 
baskets,  high  mounted  pieces  of  gum  paste,  royal  icing,  nougat,  sugar  candy,  marchpane  and 
almond  paste.  Fancy  variegated  ices,  such  as  virgin  cream  and  biscuit  glace,  tutti-frutti,  Monte- 
limar,  Neapolitan,  harlequin,  bombs  and  delicious  creams  with  nuts;  parfait  with  coffee  and 
burnt  almond  cream,  chestnut  mousse  and  souffles  sabayon;  sponge  and  plombiere  with  fruits, 
Nesselrode  puddings  and  fiori  di  latte;  pineapple  water  ices  and  Favart  souffles;  fresh,  seasonable 
and  hot-house  fruits;  compotes  of  fruits,  small  fancy  cakes,  Genoese  cakes  and  others  iced;  bon- 
bons, Victorias,  cornucopias,  Cossacks,  mottoes  and  bonbon  boxes. 

This  third  part  of  the  menu  is  certainly  the  prettiest  and  most  coquettish,  and  with  these  lux- 
uries ends  the  selection  of  dishes  from  which  an  elegant  table  may  be  set. 

Drinks. — Champagne,  Bordeaux,  Burgundy,  wine  punches,  lemonades,  grenadine  and  syrups 
of  raspberry,  currant  or  orgeat,  coffee  or  tea. 

AMBIGU. 

A  meal  usually  offered  cold  without  any  soup,  and  set  on  a  table  where  removes  are  served  at 
the  same  time,  also  entrees,  side  dishes  and  sweet  desserts,  and  in  which  the  service  is  blended 
into  one,  for  no  dishes  are  to  be  removed.  Certain  breakfasts,  hunting  luncheons,  and  supper? 
served  in  the  midst  of  a  ball,  are  also  all  called  ambigu. 


TABLE    SERVICE.  13 

SERVICE  FOR  LUNCHEONS. 

Lunch  is  a  small  repast  indulged  in  between  breakfast  and  dinner.  This  meal  is  called  lunch 
in  English,  in  French  gouter  or  taste,  because  it  is  less  heavy  than  the  others,  and,  as  generally  very 
little  is  eaten,  it  is  only  tasted.  In  France  this  old  custom  only  exists  in  country  towns  where 
breakfast  is  very  matinal;  the  English  and  Americans  also  lunch,  for  they  breakfast  early  and 
only  dine  toward  six  or  seven  o'clock,  therefore  lunch  is  an  indispensable  meal  with  them.  Larger 
and  more  ceremonious  luncheons  are  frequently  served;  these  are  called  "  dinner  luncheons,"  and 
many  bills  of  fare  for  their  preparation  will  be  found  later  on.  For  family  luncheons  there  are 
generally  served  cold  meats,  light  entries,  sandwiches,  pastries,  ices,  preserves,  etc., 

LUNCHEON  FOR  LADIES  AND  GENTLEMEN,  OR  FOR  LADIES  ONLY,  OR 

GENTLEMEN  ONLY. 

FOR    LADIES    ONLY. 

Although  set  with  more  simplicity  than  the  dinner  table,  nothing  elegant  must  be  lacking; 
in  the  center  of  the  table  place  a  flower  decoration,  either  a  double  cornicopia,  or  a  boat,  or  two 
dossers  set  back  to  back,  or  a  vase,  or  a  temple,  etc. ,  according  to  the  reason  the  lunch  was  offered 
to  the  guests.  On  each  side  place  a  piece  made  of  nougat,  one  of  spun  sugar,  and  at  each  end  a 
high  stand  on  tiers  filled  with  bonbons,  Victorias,  mottoes,  etc. 

At  eighteen  or  twenty-four  inches  from  the  edge,  according  to  the  width  of  the  table,  draw  a 
line  the  same  shape  as  the  table  and  lay  on  this  decanters  of  white  and  sherry  wines,  also  water 
decanters,  one  for  every  two  persons;  two  fruit  dishes,  four  containing  small  fancy  cakes,  and 
TWO  of  dried  fruits.  Set  semicircular  around  each  plate  as  many  glasses  as  there  are  wines;  on  the 
right  hand  lay  a  card  bearing  the  name  of  the  guest,  and  on  the  left  a  dress  or  buttonhole  bou- 
quet and  the  menu  standing  against  the  flower  vase.  Decorate  the  sideboard  with  the  dessert 
service;  carve  the  meats  near  the  dining-room,  and  see  that  everything  is  served  very  hot.  Let 
the  wines  be  of  a  proper  temperature,  and  specify  each  one  while  serving  it;  as  soon  as  every- 
thing is  in  complete  order,  open  the  doors  and  bow,  which  means  that  the  lunch  is  ready,  and  the 
guests  may  assemble  in  the  dining-room  to  take  their  places  at  the  seats  designated  on  their  cards, 
f  he  service  begins  the  same  as  the  dinner  and  continues  likewise  until  the  coffee  is  served,  when 
the  ladies  retire  to  the  drawing-room  to  partake  of  theirs,  to  listen  to  music,  or  to  withdraw 
unceremoniously. 

If  the  lunch  should  be  intended  for  gentlemen  only,  suppress  all  ornamentation  except  the 
flowers  and  fruits;  the  menu  should  be  more  substantial,  and  if  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  together, 
serve  the  same  as  for  a  dinner,  observing  the  same  etiquette. 

MEAT  BREAKFAST  (Dejeuner  k  la  Fourchette). 

A  meat  breakfast  is  composed  of  broiled  meats,  cold  meat,  fish,  eggs,  croustades,  fried  dishes, 
sweets  and  dessert. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

COLD  SIDE   DISHES. — MELON. 

Radishes,  celery,  olives,  anchovies,  caviare,  sardines,  fresh  butter,  artichokes  poivrade,  smoked 
breasts  of  goose,  canape's  of  ham,  gherkins,  shrimps,  mortadella,  cucumbers,  Lyons  sausage, 
mackerel  in  oil,  tomatoes  and  pickles. 

Oysters  or  Little  Neck  clams. 

FISH. 

Broiled — mackerel,  shad,  smelts,  perch,  trout,  herrings. 
Fried — codfish,  fillets  of  flounders,  whitebait,  frost  fish. 
Baked — sheepshead,  baas,  English  soles,  redsnapper,  kingfish. 
Boiled — salmon,  grouper,   halibut,  skate,  cod's  tongues. 
Sauted — weakfish,  lobsters,  mussels,  bluefish,  whitefish. 

EGGS. 
Omelets,  scrambled,  fried,  poached,  boiled  soft  and  hard,  soft,  moulded  or  on  a  dish. 

ENTREES. 

Broiled— pig's  feet,  sausages,  blood  sausages,  sliced  venison. 
Fried — chicken,  tendons  of  lamb,  crawfish  cutlets. 
Sauted — tripe,  chicken,  kidneys,  tournedos,  calf's  liver. 


14 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


'v 

Baked — sweetbreads,  lamb  chops  in  papers,  quails,  pigeons  in  cases. 

Braized — calf's  head,  sheep's  trotters,  grenadins  of  veal. 

Broiled — porterhouse  steak,  sirloin  steak,  tenderloin  of  beef,  veal,  mutton  and  lamb  chops. 

COLD. 

Game  pie,  terrine  of  goose-livers  (foies-gras.) 
Boned  duck,  chicken  mayonnaise. 

ROAST. 

Game  or  broiled  or  roast  poultry,  with  green  salad. 

SWEET  ENTREMETS  AND  DESSERT. 

If  so  far  no  eggs  have  been  mentioned  in  the  bill  of  fare,  then  fruit  or  spirituous  omelets  of  all 
kinds  may  be  served,  or  else  Celestine  omelet,  snow  souffle,  etc.,  but  in  case  eggs  have  already 
been  used,  then  diversify  the  bill  of  fare  by  giving  fritters,  crusts,  pancakes,  pears,  apples,  peaches, 
etc.  Have  also  pies,  tarts  and  cakes  as  well  as  cheese  and  fresh  fruit. 

Coffee  and  Liquors. 

THE  BREAKFAST  TABLE. 

The  breakfast  table  must  be  laid  simpler,  although  with  as  much  care  and  taste  as  for  all 
other  meals;  naturally  there  is  less  ceremony  to  be  observed  for  a  breakfast,  the  simplicity  of  the 
bill  of  fare  and  wines  rendering  it  far  easier  to  serve.  The  hors-d'ceuvre  and  fruit  may  be  placed 
on  the  table,  and  when  a  dressy  appearance  is  desired,  flowers  or  high  cold  pieces,  such  as  meat 
pies,  chaufroids,  aspics,  trout  or  salmon,  may  also  be  added. 

The  service  for  the  wines  and  cooking  is  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  dinner. 

SUPPLIES  (Approvisionnements). 

Good  cooking  is  only  obtained  by  having  all  the  ingredients  healthy,  appetizing  and  nutri- 
tious; the  stomach  must  not  be  fatigued,  and  yet  the  eye  and  the  palate  have  to  be  somewhat  flat- 
tered. A  dish  may  be  more  or  less  simple,  more  or  less  difficult,  but  it  must  satisfy  the  taste  and 
to  obtain  this  result  a  cook  should  only  use  the  best  materials  and  those  of  the  very  freshest. 

All  the  supplies  should  be  of  the  very  first  choice;  the  best  cook  in  the  world  can  fail  to  work 
properly  unless  the  provisions  are  of  the  best.  A  cook  anxious  to  perform  his  duty  must  pay  the 
strictest  attention  to  the  selection  of  the  food;  this  alone  constitutes  a  science  based  on  a  deep 
knowledge  and  long  practice. 

Beef  must  have  light  red,  marbled  meat,  the  fat  being  firm  to  the  touch. 

Veal  meat  to  be  white  and  firm,  also  its  fat. 

Mutton  has  red  meat  firm  and  marbled,  the  fat  to  be  white. 

Pork  must  be  carefully  selected  from  pigs  raised  on  acorns  or  corn,  having  firm,  white  meat, 
and  firm,  white,  brittle  fat. 

Chickens  to  be  plump,  the  breast  bone  flexible,  the  ribs  easily  cracked.  Pinch  the  pinion 
bones  to  see  whether  they  are  tender;  the  same  of  turkeys,  other  poultry  and  game.  Old  fowls 
can  never  replace  young  chickens,  therefore  use  them  as  little  as  possible.  A  fish  is  to  have  a 
clear,  fresh  eye  and  must  be  firm  to  the  touch;  mistrust  it  as  soon  as  the  belly  flesh  becomes  soft; 
the  smell  will  indicate  whether  it  be  fresh  or  stale;  the  same  of  crustaceans. 

Vegetables  to  be  selected  of  the  very  freshest. 

bruits  by  their  appearance  and  taste. 

TABLE  OF  SUPPLIES. 
FISH   AND   SHELL   FISH. 

Index  for  American  Fish  and  when  they  are  in  Season.      S  indicates  when  in  season. 


£> 

fc. 

a> 

-2 

h 

a> 

^2 

S 

FISH. 

POISSONS. 

* 

S 

| 

_ 

0> 

in 

3 

S 

a> 

^5 

Q 
9 

a 

V 

.Q 

^*> 

c 

^* 

bfi 

2 

6 

V 

?2 

3 

— 

u 

O 

B 

-5 

fc 

& 

•< 

^ 

-5 

< 

02 

O 

k; 

Q 

Angel  or  moon  

g 

g 

Bass,  lake  or  black.  .  .  . 

Bass  de  Lac  

s 

g 

s 

s 

s 

g 

s 

"     sea  

"     de  Mer  

15 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

"     striped  

"     Bar 

g 

ij 

g 

o 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

Black  fish  or  tautoe;.  .  . 

Tautog  

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

g 

Bluefish  

S 

S 

S 

s 

g 

s 

TABLE    OF    SUPPLIES. 


15 


FISH  AND  SHELL  FISH.— CONTINUED. 
Index  for  American  fish,  and  when  they  are  in  season.       S  indicates  when  in  season. 


FISH. 

POISSONS 

IN 

at 

a 

5 

February 

.a 

o 
ft 
oj 

Pi 

fr 

CD 

a 

3 

'-s 

~3 

to 

3 

September 

October  I 

November 

December 

Bonito              .  . 

Bonite  

s 

S 

s 

S 

S 
S 
S 
S 
S 
S 

s 

15 

Butterfish. 

S 

S 

S 

s 

S 

"s" 

s 
s 
s 
s 

15 

S 

s 
s 

020202020202020202.  02 

Carp,  common  &  Buffalo 
"     German     

Carpe  ordinaire  

15 

s 

S 

"      miroir  

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

S 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 

Codfish  

Morue  

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

S 
S 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

Eels 

An^uiHes  

Flounders  or  tiukes.  .  . 
Frost  fish      

Plie,  Limande  

Tacaud     

Grouper  .              .  . 

Haddock  . 

Aiglefin    

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 

Halibut  

Fletan  

Herring     

Hareng.  

Kin°°fish.  . 

Umbrine  

s 

s 

s 

s 

15 

s 

s 

Lafayette 

15 



Lamprev  

Lamproie     ...        ... 

s 
s 

15 

s 
s 
s 

Mackerel     .  .            .    . 

Maquereau 

s 
s 
s 
s 

. 

s 
s 
s 
s 

S 

s 

s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

'  s 

"          Spanish.  .  .  . 
Mullet 

"             Espagnol. 
Mulet  

15 

S 

s 
s 

s 
s 

15 

S 

s 
s 

Muscalonge 

Masque  allonge  .    .  . 

S 

s 
s 
s 

15 

'  s" 

s 
s 

S 

S 

s 
s 
s 

"s 

s 

s 

Perch  

Perche      

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

Pike  perch.            
"  or    Pickerel 

Sand  re    

1  -  -  - 

Brochet  ou  brocheton. 

s 
s 

15 

s 
s 
s 

s 

Pompano  

s 

Poi'rry. 

Sar^us    

Red   Snapper  

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

Salmon,  Kennebec      ^ 
and  Oregon  J 
"        trout  

(  SaumonduKennebec 
(et  de  1'Oregon  

s 

Ken 

Ken 

Ken 

Ken 

Truite  saumonee  

Shad  and  roe  

Alose  et  oaufs  

s 

s 

15 
15 

S 

Sheepshead. 

S 

S 

S 

s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

15 

S 

s 
s 
s 

"s" 

s 
s 
s 

Skate  

Kaie  

s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

15 

s 

Smelts  
Sole,  English  

Eperlans  
Sole  Anglaise  

15 

Spot        fish  ... 

s 

s 

s 

S 
S 

s 

s 
s 

s 

15 

Sturgeon  .            .... 

Esturo'eon  . 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

15 

Trout,  brook  

Truite  de  ruisseau  . 

s 
s 

s 
s 

Turbot,  American  
"        English   .    . 

Turbot  Americain  .... 
"        Anglais  

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

Weak  fish  

15 

s 

s 
s 

S 

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

15 

S 

Whitebait  

Blanchaille    

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

Whitefish  

Lavaret.  .          .... 

MISCELLANEOUS 


SHELL  FISH  :          CRUSTACES  ET  COQUILLAGES-. 

Clams,  hard  

Lucines  orangees  
papillons.  . 
Crabes  durs  .      . 

02  02  02 

02  O2  O2 

s 
s 
s 

020202 

s 
s 

s 
s 

02020202 

s 

s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

15 

s 
s 

S 

s 

s 

02  02  02 

soft  

Crabs,  hard  

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

15 
15 

"       soft  

"      inoux. 

Crawfish  

Ecrevisses    

S 
S 

S 

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

s 

Lobsters  

Honiards  

s 

s 

s 
s 

s 

s 

s 
s 

Mussels  

Moules  

Oysters  

Huttres 

S 

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 

15 

s 

s 
s 

15 

s 
s 

s 
s 

Scallops.  . 

Petoncles           . 

Shrimps   small 

Crevettes  petites 

s 

s 

Codfish  tongues.  .  . 

Langues  de  inorue...  . 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Crabs,  oyster  

Crabes  d'huitres  

S 

s 

s 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Frosrs  . 

Grenouilles   

s 

s 

y 

s 

s 

Best 

Best 

Best 

Best 

Best 

s 

s 

Milts  

Laitances   

s 

y 

s 

s 

s 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Terrapin  

Terrapene  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Tortue  verte  

S 

s 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Chevrettes  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

16 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FISH  AND  SHELL  FISH.— CONTINUED. 
Index  for  American  Fish,  and  when  they  are  in  season.     S  indicates  when  in  season. 


fc. 

1* 

t- 

a> 

h 

au 

1 

SALT  FISH. 

POISSONS  SALES 

a 

3 

,3 

03 

0) 
^ 

s 

3 

CM 

•£ 

>^ 

5 

>, 

bfi 

•" 

o 

> 

a 

<1> 

a 

— 

3 

3 

Oi 

u 

o 

a> 

'-5 

f* 

"5 

"*• 

^ 

^ 

*-i 

•*! 

CO 

O 

•^ 

Q 

Anchovies 

Anchois  

R 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

s 

S 

R 

R 

R 

Codfish    dried   ... 

Morue  seche  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

Herring  

Harengs  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

"         pickled  

"          marines  .... 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

Mackerel           .    . 

Maquereau  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

Prawns 

Crevettes   

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

s 

R 

Salmon  

Saumon  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

SMOKED  FISH 

POISSONS  FUMES: 

Haddock,     smoked    or 
Finnan  haddie  

Aiglefin  

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Halibut   

Fletan   

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Herring  

Haren°"  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

"        bloaters 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

"         kippered.  .    .  . 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Mackerel  

Maquereau  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Salmon  

Saumon  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Shad  

A  I  ose  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Sturgeon  

Esturgeon  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Whitefish  

Lavaret  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

POULTRY. 

Index  for  Poultry  and  when  it  is  in  season.     S  indicates  when  in  season. 
B  indicates  when  the  poultry  is  at  its  best. 


POULTRY. 

VOLAILLE. 

January 

February 

u 

fm 

as 

"£ 

"S 
p* 
< 

s 

s 

OS 

a 

a 
."-s 

_>> 

"3 

•-S 

SB 

bC 

3 

< 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Capon  

Chapon  

s 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Chicken,  to  broil  1J  Ib? 
Sauter2£lbs 
Roast    3  Ibs 
Braize   4  Ibs 
Duck,  Mongrel  

PouletaGriller,li  liv's 
Sauter,  2£    " 
Rotir,     3      " 
"        Braiser,  4      " 
Canards  Metis  .      ... 

S 
S 

s 
s 
s 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 
s 

S 
S 

S 

s 
s 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 

S 
S 

s 
s 
s 

S 
S 

s 
s 

s 

"     tame  

"        Domestiques 

i; 

B 

B 

B 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

B 

Duckling  

Caneton  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Fowl  

Poule.        .    . 

s 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Geese  

Oie  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

"        Mongrel  

"   Metisse  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Gosling  

Oison  

15 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Guinea  fowl  

Pmtade  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Peacock  

Paon   

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

Pigeon  
stall-fed  
Pullet  

Pigeon  
"        engraisse  .  .  .    . 
Poularde 

s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

s 
s 
s 

s 

s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 

s 
s 

s 

Squab  

Pigeonneau 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

is 

Turkey  

Dindon 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

E.  R  I  

"       ex  Ru'dels'nd 

It 

B 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

It 

B 

B 

B 

Young  

Dindonneau 

s 

s 

$ 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

B 

B 

B 

s 

Suckling  pig.  . 

Cochon  de  lait 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

In  case  no  fresh  ones  are  procurable,  frozen  poultry  can  be  found  every  day  of  the  year. 


TABLE    OF    SUPPLIES. 


FRUITS. 


Index  for  Fruits  and  when  they  are  in  Season.      S  indicates  when  in  season. 


FRUITS. 

FRUITS. 

£ 

at 

3 

a 

at 
>-s 

February 

A 

o 

u 

03 

^ 

'•— 

— 
<! 

s>» 

03 

& 

05 

3 

>> 

"3 
"^ 

en 
3 
bC 

3 

<5 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Alligator  pears  

Avocats  

s 

S 

R 

Apples  

Pommes  

S 

S 

s 

s 

R 

s 

s 

S 

R 

R 

R 

s 

Apricots  

Abricots  

15 

15 

Bananas  

Bananes  

S 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

s 

Barberries  

Epines  Vinettes  

R 

15 

Blackberries           .... 

Mures  

s 

15 

Cherries  

Cerises  

s 

s 

15 

Chestnuts  

Marrons  

S 

s 

R 

s 

Cocoanuts  

Xoix  de  Coco  

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

S 

R 

R 

R 

s 

Currants,  black  &  red.  . 

Groseilles,  cassis  

s 

15 

Fies 

Fiffues  .  . 

15 

Ginger  

Gingembre  

15 

R 

R 

R 

R 

s 

Gooseberries  

Groseilles  vertes        ) 

s 

Grapes,  Brighton  

dites  a  maquereau  j" 
Raisins,   Brighton.... 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Concord  

Concord  .... 

15 

R 

R 

R 

15 

Delaware  

Delaware  .  .  . 

s 

R 

R 

15 

Hautfonds  .... 

Hautfonds... 

s 

s 

R 

s 

R 

Hot  house  

de  serre  

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

15 

Ives  

Ives  

s 

R 

s 

s 

R 

Jona  

Jona  

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Malaga  

Malaga  

S 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

s 

Muscatel    

Muscatelle.  . 

s 

R 

R 

s 

R 

Niagara  .  .  . 

Niagara.  .  .  . 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Pokington  

Pokington  .  . 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Rebecca  

Rebecca  .... 

15 

R 

R 

R 

15 

Tokay  

Tokav  

s 

R 

R 

s 

R 

Grape  fruit  or  shaddock 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

s 

Green  gages  

Reine  Claude  

R 

15 

Huckleberries  

Airelles  

15 

s 

s 

Lemons  

Citrons  

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Limes  

Poncires  

Mangoes  

Mangoes  

s 

R 

R 

Melon,  Cantaloup  

Melon,  Cantaloup  .... 

15 

R 

R 

15 

"      Musk  

"      Maraicher  

15 

R 

R 

15 

"      Spanish  

"      Espagnol  ..... 

R 

"      Water  

"      d'eau  pasteque. 

s 

R 

R 

15 

Nectarines  

Brugnons  

s 

R 

Oranges,  Florida  

Orange?  de  Floride.  .  . 

S 

s 

s 

R 

R 

"      Mandarins  

"        Mandarines  .  . 

S 

s 

R 

"      Spanish  

"         d'Espagne.  .  . 

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Peaches  

Peches  

s 

R 

R 

15 

"        hot  house  

"      de  serre  

s 

R 

Pears  

Poires  

S 

s 

R 

15 

R 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Pineapples  

Ananas  

S 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

R 

Plums  

Prunes  

s 

R 

R 

Persimmons  

R 

15 

Pomegranates 

Grenades     

s 

S 

Quiiifes 

Coin^s  

R 

R 

R 

Raspberries 

Framboises  

s 

s 

R 

Strawberries 

Fraises  ....        

s 

s 

s 

s 

'  '          hot  house 

"      de  serre  

s 

s 

Tamarinds  

Tainarins  

s 

R 

R 

Tangerines  

s 

R 

R 

Wintergreen  

s 

R 

R 

R 

R 

R 

i 

18 


THE    EPICUREAN. 

GAME. 
Index  for  Game  and  when  it  is  in  Season.      S  indicates  when  in  season. 


GAME. 

GIBIEB. 

fr 

a 

a 

& 

February 

a 

'C 

p. 

1 

05 

a 
>-> 

13 

1-3 

18 

a 
fee 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Antelope  and  Venison. 

15 

S 

S 

15 

S 

"s" 

q 

Courlis                   . 

S 

S 

S 

S 

'     Lark            

S 

S 

S 

'     Rail-chopper,    or 

S 

'     Reed 

Mesange  Moustache  . 

727272 

727272 

727272727272727272  72  72  72  72  GO  GO  GO  GO  GO  72  72  72  72727272 

727272;  727272G072  72  72  72  GO  GO  72  72  72  72  72  72  72  72727272 

«     Rice         

Oiseaux  de  Riziere.  ..  . 
Petits  Oiseaux  

S 

s 
a 

S 
S 

S 

s 

«     Small  

Buffalo.               

Buffle  

Ducks,  all  kinds  

Canards  de  toutes- 
sortes            . 

-f2  02  O2  72O2  02  :  ";  O:  72  O2  O2  72 

72  72  72  72  72  72  727272  72  72 

72727272727272GOG07272 

72727272GOGOGC72727272 

72  72  72727272727272  C.2&2  7272 

72  72  72  72  72  72  72  72  72  72  72  GO  72 

Blackhead 

"     a  Tete  noire.  .  .  . 

Canvas-back    ... 

Mallard       .  .    .  . 

"     Malart  

Red  head  

"     Tete  rouge  
Sarcelle  ailes  bleues.  . 
"       ailes  vertes.  .  . 
Canards  siffleurs  . 

Teal,  bluewing.  . 
Teal,  green  

\Vidgeon 

Wood            .   .  . 

"       des  bois 

Geese   Brant  

Oies  Barnacles.    . 

"     Wild  

"     sauvages  . 

Grouse  or  prairie  hen.. 
"       Spruce  

Tetras  ou  poule          ) 
de  prairie  f 

15 

Hare,  American  

"     English  

"       Anglais  

S 

s 

8 

S 

72  72  GO  GO  72  72  72 

15 

Pheasants  

s 

Pigeons  

Pigeons  

8 

8 

S 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 

Plovers,  Grass  

"        Corn,  golden.. 
"        Yellow  legs.  . 
Ptarmigans  

"       a  pattes  jaunes 
Poules  de  Neige  

S 

S 

8 

Quails  

Cailles  ,... 

s 

S 

s 

S 

s 

Rabbits  

Lapins  

Robins  

Rouge  gorge  

Law 

agai 

nst 

sell  5 

ng 

Snipe,  Curlew  

Becassines,  Courlis.  .  . 

020202020202 

72  72  72  72  72  72 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

"       English  

Anglaises. 
du  Jersey. 
"           de  Sable 

"       Sand  

Squabs,  wild  

Pigeonneaux  sauvages 
Ecureuil  

Squirrel  

s 

S 

Dindon  sauvage  

S 

s 

S 

S 

S 

Woodcock  

15 

s 

S 

Almost  everything,  not  fresh  killed,  may  be  found  in  good  condition  frozen,  nearly  every  day  in'the  year. 


TABLE    OF    SUPPLIES. 


19 


MEATS. 

Index  for  Meats  and  when  they  are  in  season.     S  indicates  when  in  season. 
B  indicates  when  the  meat  is  at  its  best. 


MEATS. 

VIANDES. 

a 

3 

a 
a 

February 

5 

P. 

| 

a 

3 

's 
i-» 

In 

3 
be 

S 

Septembel 

October 

November 

December 

Beef     

Bceuf  

B 

B 

S 
S 
S 

s 
s 

B 
B 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

B 

72  72  72  GO  GO  GO  CQ 

72  72  72  72  72  GO  03 

S 
S 

S 
S 

S 

S 

B 

B 

Kid 

Agneau  de  lait 

S 
S 
B 
B 
B 

S 
S 
B 
B 
B 

Lamb   Yearling  

Agneau  Tardif  
Mouton  

s 
s 
s 
s 

B 

S 
S 
S 

B 

S 
S 

s 

B 

S 
B 

S 

S 
B 
B 
B 

S 
B 
B 
B 

Pie- 

Cochon  

Veal             

Veau  

VEGETABLES. 

Index  of  Vegetables  and  when  they  are  in  season.     M  Indicates  the  month  when  in  season. 
E  Indicates  when  the  vegetable  comes  from  Europe;   H  when  cultivated  in  hot-house  or  hot-beds. 


VEGETABLES. 

LEGUMES. 

fc 

cS 

9 

a 
>-» 

February 

rd 

O 
(- 
CS 

S 

T, 
P. 
<i 

t*> 

OS 
£ 

v 
a 

3 
•-5 

>> 
'3 

>-5 

to 

3 

be 

3 

< 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Artichokes     

Articliauts  

F, 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

F 

"          Jerusalem 

ropinambours 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

IVf 

Asparagus  liot-liouse 

Asperges  de  serre 

M 

15 

"               Out-door 

"      en  Pleine  terre 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

"        Green  " 

'  '      Vertes 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Tips      " 

"      Pointes 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

"         "White  " 

"      Blanches 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

15 

"       Lima   

Haricots,  Lima  

M 

M 

M 

"      Striner 

"       Verts  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

"      Wax  and  butter. 

Vlange  tout.  .  ,  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

15 

Beets  

Betteraves  

M 

M 

M 

new 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Brussels  sprouts 

Chouxde  Bruxelles 

M 

M 

15 

M 

M 

Cabbage  Green  Kale 

"      Verts  Kale     . 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Red 

'  '       Rouges  . 

M 

M 

M 

M 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

"        Savoy. 

"      de  Savoie. 

M 

M 

M 

M 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

White  

"      Blancs  

M 

new 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Cardoons 

Cardons      

M 

M 

Carrots    .    . 

Garottes.  . 

M 

M 

M 

new 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Cauliflower  

Choux  rleurs  

F, 

F 

F 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Celery  knobs   Celeriac 

'eleri  rave  

M 

M 

M 

M 

15 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

"       Soup  

"      Vert  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Corn,  green.  .  .  . 

M 

M 

M 

15 

Cranberries  

Caneberges  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Cucumbers  

Concombres  

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

H 

H 

H 

"       Small  pickles 

15 

M 

15 

Eefff-plant.  . 

Aubergines  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Garlic,  dry  

Ail,  sec  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

new 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Herbs,  Basil  

Herbes  Basilic.  .  .      .  . 

M 

M 

M 

Bay  leaves,  dry. 
Burnet    ...      . 

"     Laurier,  sec.  .  . 
"     Pimprenelle.  .  .  . 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 
M 

M 
M 

M 

M 

M 

Cbervil  

"     Cerfeuil  

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

H 

H 

H 

Chives  

"     Ciboulettes  

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

H 

H 

H 

Fennel  

'     Fenouil  

M 

M 

M 

Marjoram  

'     Marjolaine  

M 

M 

M 

Mint  

'     Mentbe  

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

M 

H 

H 

H 

Parsley 

'     Persil  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

Rosemary  

M 

M 

M 

Savorv  

'     Sarriette  

M 

M 

M 

Tarragon 

H 

H 

H 

H 

H 

M 

M 

M 

M 

H 

H 

H 

Thyme  

'     TbTm  

M 

M 

M 

Hops  

Houblons  

15 

15 

Kohl  rabi  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 

20 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


VEGETABLES. —CONTINUED. 
Index  of  Vegetables  and  when  they  are  in  season.     M  Indicates  the  Month  they  are  in  season. 

E  Indicates  when  the  vegetable  comes  from  Europe;  H  Indicates  when  the  vegetable  is  culti- 
vated in  hot-houses  or  hot-beds;  S  Indicates  when  the  vegetable  comes  from  the  South;  L  Indicates 
when  the  vegetable  comes  from  Long  Island. 


VEGETABLES. 

LEGUMES. 

b 

3 

a 

OJ 

>-» 

February 

1 

el 

& 

S. 
< 

>> 

« 

% 

o 

c 

3 
1-5 

j>> 

"5 

1-5 

In 
3 
be 

<5 

September 

October 

November 

>-, 

9 

^ 

S 
tl 
o 

6 

Q 

M 

M 

"s" 

M 

Leeks  

Poireaux  

M 
M 

M 
M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

M 

M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
15 
15 
M 
M 

Mushrooms,  cultivated 
Field  .... 
"          Girolles  .. 
"          Morils.  .  . 
Okra  or  Gumbo  

Champignons  cultives 
"          de  Prairie 

"          Girolles.  . 

"          Morilles.. 
Gombaut  

S 
M 
15 
M 
M 
M 

S 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
S 

s 

M 
M 

15 
M 
15 

S 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
S 
S 
M 
M 
M 
M 

S 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
8 
S 
S 
M 
M 
M 

S 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
S 
S 
M 
M 

8 
M 
M 

M 
M 

M 
M 

Onions  

Oignons.  

"     Bermuda  

"       de  Bermude.  . 
"       Petits  

"     Small  

M 

M 
M 
M 
L 

M 

15 

M 
M 
M 
L 

M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
L 
M 
M 

M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 

Oyster-  plant  

Salsifis  

Parsnips  „  
Peas  (South)  

Panais  
Pois  

S 
M 
M 
M 

L 

M 
L 

Peppers  

Poivrons    

S 
M 
15 

M 

M 

8 
M 

Potatoes  

Pommes  de  terre  

"       Bermuda.  .  .    . 
"      Havana  

"       Bermude  

"       Havane  

"       Sweet  

Patates  

M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
15 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

Pumpkins  

Potirons  

Radishes,   black  

M 
M 
M 
15 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

"         Horse  

Raifort  

M 

M 

M 

M 

M 
M 

Red  

Radis  rou^'e  

"      White  or  gray 
Rhubarb  

"     Blanc  ou  giis.  .  . 

Rhubarbe  

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 

Salad,  Monk's  beard.  . 
Celery  

Salade  barbedeCapucin 
"     de  Oeleri  

M 

M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 

M' 
M 
H 
M 

M 

M 

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 

Chicory  

"     de  Chicoree.  .  .  . 
"     de  Maches  

M 

Corn  

Dandelion  

"     de  Pissenlit..  ) 
"     Dent-de-liou..  ) 
"     Escarolle  

M 

M 

Escarolle  

M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

15 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
H 
M 

Lettuce  

"     de  Laitue.  .  . 

M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
H 
M 

M 
M 
M 
M 
M 
M 

M 
M 
M 
new 
M 
M 

M 

Romaine  

"     de  Romaine.  .  .  . 

Watercress  

"     Cresson  

M 
M 
H 

M 

M 
M 
H 

M 

M 
M 
H 
M 

M 
M 
H 

M 

Shallots  

Echalotes  

Oseille  

Spinach  

Squash,  summer,  white 
"             "       yellow 
"   Winter,Hubbard 
"     Marrow. 
Tomatoes  

Epinard  
Courge  blanche  \  *,,  , 
"      Jaune     \  *jte> 
"       HubbardHiver 
"      Moelle        " 
Tomates  

M 
M 
H 

M 

M 
M 
H 
M 

M 
M 

S 
M 

15 
15 
S 
M 

M 
M 
H 

M 
M 
M 

M 

M 
H 

M 
M 

M 

8 

8 
M 

S 
M 

M 
M 

Turnips,  Rutabaga  .  .  . 
Teltow  

Navets  Rutabaga  
Teltow  

White... 

"      Blancs.  . 

M 

M 

M 

M 

IVf 

new 

new 

new 

new 

TABLE    OF    SUPPLIES. 


MODEL  MARKET  LIST. 


Reed 

On 
hand 

Neec 

Reed 

On 
hand 

Need 

BEEF. 

Chuck  pcs. 

PORK  AND   PROVISIONS. 

Bacon  pcs 

Corned   Navel  Ibs. 

Bologna  Ibs 

Plate  " 

Feet,   Pigs  pcs 

Ham,  Corned  " 

Fillets     pcs. 

"      Fresh  " 

''      Smoked  " 

"      Westphalia  " 

Lamb  Tongues  " 

Lard  Ibs 

Loin,  Flat  Bone  " 

Larding  Pork  " 

"      Hip  " 

'  '      Short  " 

Pork  Tongues  " 

Salt  Pork,  Breast  Ibs 

Sausages  " 

Ribs    " 

"        Frankfort  " 

Round  Ibs. 

'  '        Meat  " 

Rump       " 

Tails  pcs. 

Smoked  Beef  Ibs 

Tongues,  Fresh  " 

Smoked  Beef  Tongue?  pcs 

Butt           

Tenderloin    Ibs 

LAMB    (SPUING). 

Tripe  " 

VEGETABLES. 

Artichokes  pcs 

Racks   Short  Cut  " 

"        Twelve  Ribs     " 

Saddles   Fore  " 

"          Jerusalem  peck. 
Asparagus.  .                bunch 



.... 

Hind  " 

Tips  " 

LAMB  (YEARLING). 

"      String  " 

Beets  " 

Brussels  Sprouts  " 

Feet      "   i  

Carrots  bbl 

Fries  " 

Carrots,  New  " 

Cabbage  doz 

Cauliflowers  " 

Twelve  Ribs  ' 

Celery  Knobs  or  Celeriac.  .  .  .  bunch. 
"       Soup  " 

Hind  ' 

Corn,  Green  pcs 

Cranberries  bushel. 

Cucumbers  doz. 

Egg  Plant  " 

Garlic  " 

MUTTON. 
Brains         ...      .        pcs 

Herbs,  Dry         bunch 

Chervil  

Chives  

Broast            ...             " 

Mint    

Feet              " 

Parsley  

Kidneys             .               ...             ' 

Tarragon  

Leers                                                  .     ' 

Kohl-rabi  

Racks   Short  Cut        ' 

Leeks  

Twelve  Ribs       ' 

Melon,  Musk  pcs. 

Saddles  Fore              ' 

Mushrooms,  Cultivated  Ibs. 

Hind  " 

Field  " 

Okra  pcs. 

Onions  bbl. 

VEAL. 
Brains                                    .  .      .  .  pcs 

"       Small  '.  peck. 

Oyster  Plants  doz 

Parsnips  peck. 

Breast                         Ibs 

Peas  bushel 

Feet         .      .         .       pcs 

Peppers  pcs. 

Potatoes  bbl. 

"        New  " 

Hind  Quarter                                       ' 

<k        Sweet  bushel. 

... 

Kidneys  ' 

Pumpkin  pcs. 

Livers                                               .     ' 

Racks.  .  .                                      .  .  .     ' 

Radish,  Horse  " 

Shoulders                  ' 

Spinal  Marrow                                  Ibs. 

Salad,  Barbe.  .  .    " 

"       Celery  " 

Tails             .  .                                 .     " 

"       Chicory  " 

Tongues.  ..                                       .   " 

"       Corn  peck. 

THE    EPICUREAN. 


MODEL  MARKET  LIST.— CONTINUED. 


Reed 

On 
hand 

Need 

Reed 

On 
hand 

Need 

VEGETABLES  —  continued. 
Siilud    Dandelion                          peck 

Shad  Roes  pcs. 

"       Escarolle                              doz. 

Sheepshead  Ibs. 

"       Lettuce               " 

Shrimp  quarts, 

"       Romaine             " 

Skate  Ibs. 

"       Water  Cress  basket. 

Smelts  

Shallots            bushel 

Sole,  English  

Sorrel             " 

Spot    Fish  

Squash   Summer  (white).    .  .  .      pcs. 

Trout,  Brook  

"              "        (yellow)  ..." 

Turbot,  American  

"        Winter   Hubbard  " 

'  '        European  

"             "       Marrow  " 

Turtle,  Green  

Tomatoes              box. 

Weakfish  

Turnips        bbl. 

Whitebait  

Whitefish  

EGGS. 

Fresh  pcs. 

Ordinary  " 

GAME. 
Antelope.  S.  or  L  Ibs. 

Bear  " 
Birds,  Doe  pcs. 

FISH. 

'  '       Lark  " 

Bass,  Black  or  Lake  Ibs. 

"       Rail,  Sora  " 

"    Rock  • 

"       Reed,  Rice  " 

"    Sea  ' 

Buffalo  Ibs. 

Ducks,  Black-head  pcs. 

'        Brant  " 

'        Canvas-  back  " 

Carp,  Buffalo  ' 

'        Mallard  " 

Clams,   Hard  pcs. 

'        Red-head  " 

Soft  " 

Ruddy  " 

Codfish  Ibs. 

'        Teal  B.  Wing  " 

"       Dry..                                 .    " 

Grouse  " 

Tongues  ' 

Hare,  American  " 

Crabs,  Hard  pcs. 

Hare.  European  " 

'  '       Meat  Ibs. 

Partridges  " 

Pheasants,  English  " 

Plovers,  Bay.     .    .         .                 " 

Eels  Ibs. 

"        Grass.  .  .          .  .           .  .      " 

Flounders  " 

"        Yellow  legs   large       .  .    " 

Frogs  " 

"                  "            small.  ...      " 

Frost  Fish  " 

Ptarmigans  " 

Grouper  " 

Quails  " 

Haddock  •  ' 

Rabbits  ' 

"        Finnan  " 

Snipe       " 

Halibut,  6  to  12  Ibs  " 

"     English  " 

Herring  pcs. 

"     Sand            .                               " 

"        Bloaters  " 

Squabs    Wild  " 

Salt    " 

Squirrel              " 

"       Smoked  " 

Turkey,  Wild  Ibs. 

Kingfish  Ibs 

Venison    L   Saddle                            ** 

Lamprey  " 

"         S  and  Legs  " 

Lobsters  " 

"         Whole                               " 

Mackerel  pcs 

Woodcock     .    .                              pcs 

"         Salt  bbl. 

"        Spanish  Ibs. 

Mussels  k  .  bushel. 

POULTRY 

Oyster  crabs  quarts. 

Capon  pcs 

Pompano  Ibs. 

Chickens   B     1J  Ibs                          " 

Perch  " 

S     24-  Ibs  .                   .    " 

Pike  or  Pickerel  " 

"          R     3  Ibs 

"     Wall  Eyed  " 

"          \Vinter                              " 

Porgies  " 

Ducks    Mongrel                                 " 

Prawns  " 

"        Tame 

Red  Snapper  " 

Ducklings                                         " 

Salmon  " 

Fowl                         .            .              Ibs. 

"       Frozen  " 

Geese    .        .             .        pcs 

"       Kennebec  " 

"      Mongrel                                    " 

"       Smoked  " 

"      Trout  " 

Guinea  Fowl                                      *' 

Scallops  quarts. 

Peacock                                               " 

Pullets                                                 " 

TABLE    OF    SUPPLIES. 


23 


MODEL  MARKET  LIST. -CONTINUED. 


Reed 

On 
hand 

Need 

Reed 

On 
hand 

Need 

POULTRY  —  continued. 
Pigeons  Stall  Fed  pcs. 

Grapes,  Concord  Ibs. 

'  '       Delaware  " 

"       Hot  House  " 

Turkeys                   Ibs. 

"        Ex   R   I  " 

"         Snrinff                                 .    " 

Lemons  pcs. 

FRUITS. 
Apricots               ..   ............  pcs. 

Melon,  Water  

Blackberries          .  .     .               quarts 

Currants   Black  or  Red    .......    " 

Ginger                         .       ...  .quarts 

MISCELLANEOUS. 


Reed  hand  Need 


On    v 


Need 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


BILLS  OF 


The  bills  of  fare  are  classed  as  follows:  Breakfasts,  Luncheons,  Dinners,  Buffet  or  standing 
suppers,  Collations,  Hunting  parties,  Garden  parties  served  Ambigu,  sit  down  suppers  and  dancing 
parties  including  the  refreshments  and  supper. 

These  bills  of  fare  are  numbered  according  to  articles  and  not  to  pages  and  every  recipe  in 
the  book  will  be  found  in  the  Bills  of  Fare,  thus  forming  a  double  index,  as  the  table  of  contents 
at  the  end  of  the  book  is  more  conveniently  classed  by  pages. 

The  breakfast  bills  of  fare  include  more  than  one  hundred  different  ways  of  preparing  eggs, 
fish,  minces,  chopped  meats,  broils  and  sweet  dishes. 

The  luncheons  are  composed  of  crustaceans,  small  entrees,  poultry,  game,  hot  entremets 
and  desserts. 

The  dinners  are  composed  of  American,  English,  Russian  and  French  service:  Buffets  of  the 
greatest  variety  and  manifold  ways  of  serving  them. 

At  the  end  of  the  book  is  placed  a  collection  of  choice  bills  of  fare  served  by  the  house  of 
Delmonico,  between  the  years  1862  to  1893. 


LIGHT   BREAKFAST   OF  COFFEE,  CHOCOLATE,  TEA. 

Muffins  (3421) 

Rolls  (3420) 

Echaudes  (3282) 

Small  flutes,  finger-rolls  (3419) 

Flutes  or  French  rolls  (3420) 

Small  rolls,  with  butter  (3420) 

Toast  dry,  buttered  (3283) 

Toast  dipped  in  milk  or  cream  (3283) 


Crescents  (3414) 

Biscuit,  plain  or  with  cinnamon  j  /go«7\ 

Brioches  (3269) 

Couques  (3277) 

Corn  bread  (3422) 

Buns,  English  and  Hot  Cross  (3270) 

Flutes  of  brioches  (3268) 

Grissini  with  sugar  and  with  butter  \  /Q07a! 

GRIDDLE   CAKES. 

Buckwheat  cakes  (with  compressed  yeast)  (3272) 
Indian  cakes  (3274) 
Wheat  cakes  (3276) 

COOKED  CEREALS. 

Hominy  (3280)  Oatmeal  (3280) 

BREADS. 

Jocko  (3416) 


Flannel  cakes  (3273) 
Rice  cakes  (3275) 
Polish  Blinis  (3281) 

Polenta  wheaten  grits  (3280) 


Crown  (3415)  Graham  (3423)  Rye  (3423) 

American  bread  (3417) 

Pulled  bread,  bread  crumbs  pulled  out  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

Assorted  fruits  (3699)  Oranges  (3699)  Grape  fruit  (3699) 

Boiled  eggs  (2856)  Fresh  butter  (775) 


26 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


1                                       JANVIER.                                               • 

•       2                                        FEVRIER. 

DEJEUNER,  12  COUVERTS. 

DEJEUNER,  10  COUVERTS.  1 

MENU. 

MENU. 

Chablis              Huitres  (803) 
Madere  Sec        Poitrine  d'oie  fumee  (822) 
Radis  (808)  Olives  (800) 
Redsnapper  marine  (832) 

Graves              Huitres  (803) 
Sherry              Fruits  en  ravier  (793) 
Saucisson  a  Tail  (818). 
Homard  a  la  Boulognaise  (794) 

Perches  a  la  Polonaise  (1208) 

Vin  de  Moselle  Croquettes     de     pommes     de 

(Eufs  des  gourmets  (2950) 

terre  en  surprise  (2782) 

Noisettes  de  filet   de  mouton 
glacees  (1610) 

Hoclilieimer      Alose  a  la  Evers    garnie    de 
coquilles    d'oeufs     d'alose 

Fedelini  Cardinal  (2953) 

Goujons  frits  au  beurre  (1163) 

Poulet      saute       Montesquieu 
(1895) 

Mignons    de     filet    de    boeuf 

Beaune             Tomates  grillees  sauce  mayon- 

Cheron (1401) 

naise  chaude  (2838) 

Musigny           Poulet  saute  Chasseur  (1903) 

(Eufs  moules  en  caisses  au  foie 
gras  (2877) 

Salade  Italienne  (2635) 

bntet  Canet    Perdreaux  rotis  piques  au  jus 

St.  Emilion      Canvasback    grilles    (Canards 

garnis  de  cresson  (2102) 

sauvages)  (2054) 

Salade  de  mache  (2669) 

Salade  de  celeri  (2660) 

Fruits  (3699)    Fromage  (3697) 

Gateau  d'amandes  (3225) 

Alicante            Compotes  (3686) 

Malaga             Fromage  (3697) 

Salade  d'oranges  (3690) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Cafe  (3701) 

Liqueurs          Cafe  (3701) 

.                                                                             r 

3                                         MARS. 

4r                                              AVRIL. 

x  DEJEUNER,  24  COUVERTS. 

DEJEUNER,  18  COUVERTS. 

MENU. 

MENU. 

Crabes  d'huitres  marines  (805) 

Huitres  (803) 

Canapes  de  langues  (777) 

ChaUis              Harengs  marines  (787) 

SoMterne          Saucisson  de  Lyon  (818) 

(Eufs  de  vanneau  (784) 

Maquereaux  fumes  (798) 

Caviar  (778). 

Pompano  Macedoine  (1223) 

Omelette  aux  foies  de  volaille 

Pommes  Dauphine  (2783) 

(2884) 
Niersteiner       Truites  a  1'Hoteliere  (1292) 

C6te-R6tie        Tournedos  de  filet  de  boeuf  La- 

Concombres  (2661) 

guipierre  (1434) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Tournedos    de    filet   de  boeuf 
Flavignan  (1432) 

Poulet  saut6  Diva  (1886) 

Lazagnettes  a  la  Philadelphie 

Pointes   d'asperges  a  la  Main- 

(2957) 

tenon  (2695). 

Pontet-Canet    Cotelettes  de  pigeonneau  Sig- 

CEufs  poches  a    la  Bourguig- 

nora  (2269) 

nonue  (2926) 

Pointes  d'asperges  au  fromage 

LebviUe            Faisan  truffe  roti  (2110) 

(2697) 

Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Clianibertin      Sarcelles  grillees  (2067). 

St.  Honore*  k  la  Sultane  (3261) 

Salade  Russe  (2645) 

Porto                Compotes  (3686) 

Gateaux  aux  fraises  (3262) 

Fromage  (3697)    Fruits  (S699) 

Dessert 

Liqueurs          Caf6  (3701)                                     , 

•     Liqueurs           Cafe  (3701) 

BILLS    OF    FAHE. 


5  MAI. 

DEJEUNER,  16  COU VERTS. 
MENU. 

Sherry  Olives  Croissants  (800) 

Mortadelle  (818) 
Sardines  (817) 
Canapes  de  harengs  a  la  Russe 

(777) 

Consomme  tapioca  (316) 

Haut  Maquereau  Espagnol  f arci  garni 

Sauterne  de  groseilles  vertes  (1199) 

Cotelettes    d'agneau    Gavardi 

(1675) 

Pommes  Gastronome  (2789) 
Champagne      Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Mexicaine 

(1859) 
Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Asperges  chaudes   a  la  vinai- 
grette (2692) 

(Eufs  brouilles  en  bordure  de 
risot  aux  foies  de  canards 

(2938) 

Nuits  Canetons     grilles     mayonnaise 

vertes  aux  fines  herbes  (1938) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Tartelettes    aux    fruits    varies 
(3337) 

Liqueurs  Fromage  (3697)     Fruits  (3699) 

Cafe  (3701) 


.{*    6 


DEJEUNER,  10  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 


Lucines  (803) 
Niersteiner       Radis  (808) 
Beurre  (775) 
Olives  (800) 

Tranches    de    saumon  grillees 
sauce  Bearnaise  (1244) 

Champagne      Grenadins    de    filet    de  bosuf 

Beaumarchais  (1385) 
Pommes  de  terre  Long  Branch 
(2793) 

Cotelettes  de  pigeonneaux  Lau- 

riston  (2265) 
Champignons     a     la     Rivera 

(2758) 

(Eufs  frits  a  la  Eugene  Andre 

(2866) 

Chateau  Poulet  grille  au  jus  (1831) 

Lagrange      Salade  de  romaine  (2675) 

Beignets    de    cerises    fraiches 
(3042) 


Liqueurs 


Fruits  (3699) 
Fromage  (3697) 
Cafe  (3701) 


7  JUILLET. 

DEJEUNER,  12  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Lucines  (803) 

Graves  Concombres  en  filets  (783) 

Harengs  saurs  (788) 
Haricots  verts  marines  (824) 

Oranges  a  la  Russe  (3613) 

Marcobrunner  Kingfish  a  la  Sultane  (1185) 
Pommes  Viennoise  (2812) 

Ris  d'agneau  Joinville  (1761) 
Mais  saute  au  beurre  (2731) 

Homard  a  la  Bordelaise  (1025) 
CEufs  durs  a  la  Bennett  (2858) 

Chateau  Alouettes  grillees  (2082) 

Larose  Salade  de  romaine  (2675) 

Bordure  de  riz  aux   bananes 

(3005) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Fromage  (3697) 
Liqueurs  Cafe  glace  (3609) 


8 


Xeres 


AOUT. 

DEJEUNER,  18  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Piments  verts  (806) 
Avocats  (771) 
Olives  Espagnoles  (800) 
Acharts  aux  fines  herbes  (792) 

Omelette  aux  truffes  (2908) 

Liebfraumilch  Weakfish  a  la  Pontigny  (1309) 
Concombres  a  1'Anglaise  (2661) 

Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Valengay 

a855) 
Macaroni  a  la  mode  de  Naples 

(2960) 

Champagne      Grenadins  de  filet  de  veau  aux 
tomates  a  1'  Argentine  (1507) 
Pommes  de  terre  aux  truffes 
<§mincees  (2813) 

Chateau  Canetons  grilles  (1938) 

Leovitte         Salade  de  cresson  aux  pommes 
d'arbres  (2676) 

Flan  d'abricots  (3170) 
Poncire  a  la  Madison  (3612) 

Fromage  (3697) 
Fruits  (3699) 
4*    Liqueurs  Cafe  a  la  Turque  (3702) 


28 


THK    EPICUREAN. 


Q  SEPTEMBBE. 

DEJEUNER,  22  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Absinthe,   Vermouth,  Kummel. 

Concombres  marines  (785) 
Canapes  d'esturgeon  (777) 
Choux  fleurs  marines  (776) 
Paupiettes    de    harengs   a  la 
Polonaise  (789) 

Lafaurie  Kingflsh  Montgolfler  (1183) 

Salade  de  concombres  (2661) 

Mignons  de   filet  de  boeuf  a  la 

Stanley  (1406) 
Pure"e  de  pois  verts  (2742) 
St.  Pierre         Cotelettes  de  pigeonneaux  Pro- 

ven§ale  (2268) 

(Eufs  au  miroir  a  la  Tivolier 
(2855) 

HautBrion      Perdreaux  rotis  au  jus  garnis 

de  cresson  (2102) 
Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 

Petites  meringues  Italiennesau 
cafe  (3394) 

Liqueurs  Fruits  (3699) 

Fromage  (3697) 

Cafe  (3701) 


•}•      1O  OCTOBRE. 

DEJEUNER,  14  COUVERTS. 

MENU. 
Graves  Huitres  (803) 

Cerneaux  frais  (834) 
Choux  rouges  (776) 
Maquereaux  a  1'huile  (797) 

Omelette  physiologique  (2904) 

Pompano  a  la  Toulouse  (1227) 
Moselle  Pommes  de   terre  Gastronome 

(2789) 

Beaune  Cotelettes  de  chevreuil  Buri- 

dan  (2170) 

Petits  pois  a  laFrancaise  (2743) 
Poulets    sautes    a    la    Dodds 

(1887) 

Escargots  au   beurre  de   Pro- 
vence (1016) 

Champagne      Rales  a  la  Mareille  (2150) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Glace  parfait  au  nougat  (3478) 

Liqueurs  Confitures  de  groseilles  de  Bar 

(3678) 
Fromage  (3697) 

Cafe"  (3701) 


NOVEMBRE. 

DEJEUNER,  8  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 


Hermitage 
(plane) 


Reltinger 


St.  Estephe 


Huitres  et  citrons  (803) 

Cerneaux  confits  (833) 
Saumon  fume  (822) 

Petit  Esturgeon  aux  quenelles 

et  olives  (1289) 
Pommes  de  terre  grillees  a  la 

chapelure  (2776) 

Filets  mignons  d'agneau  sauce 

creme  (1724) 
Nouilles    saute"es    au     beurre 

(2972) 


Pain    d'e"crevisses 
(2305) 


Chartreuse 


Champagne 


(Eufs  sur  le  plat  Conde"  (2912) 

Outarde  en  daube  (1944) 
Salade  de  celeri  (2660) 

Pouding  souffle"  Saxonne  (3107) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Fromage  (3697) 


Liqueurs          Cafe  (3701) 


12  DECEMBRE. 

DEJEUNER,  8  COUVERTS. 

MENU. 
Montrachet       Huitres  (803) 

Saumon  fume  (822) 
Alose  marinee  (787) 

Piesporter         Tranches  de  saumon    grillees 

sauce  Bearnaise  (1244) 
Pommes  Marquise  (2797) 

Tournedos  de  filet  de  boeuf  aux 

raisins  (1439) 

Petits  pois  Menagere  (2744) 
Lapereau  a  la  Thieblin   (2138) 

Chaudfroid  de  jeunes  pintades 
(2453) 

CEufs  brouilles  aux  truffes  du 
P<§rigord  (2947) 

Rauzan  Ruddy  ducks  grilles  (2066) 

Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Amandes  salees  (3696) 
Fruits  sees  (3699) 
Compotes  (3686) 

Liqueurs  Cafe  (3701) 


OF    FARE 


13 

Oysters  with  lemon  (803) 

Eggs  on  a  dish  with  eepes  (2922) 

Broiled  fresh  codfish  with  bacon  (1138) 

Calf's  head  vinaigrette  (1519) 

Hashed  pheasant  (2299) 

Porterhouse  steak  a  la  Sanford  (1363) 

Saratoga  potatoes  (2803) 

Pelerine  tartlets  (3335) 

Dessert 


JANUARY— BREAKFAST. 

14, 

Marinated  tunny  fish  (831) 
Omelet,  German  style  (2891) 
Grouper  a  la  Franklyn  (1162) 
Corned  beef  hash,  American  style  (2291) 
Chicken  leg  cutlets  with  olives  (1875) 
Mutton  chops  plain  (1590) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 
Fruits  (3699) 


15 

Eggs  on  a  dish  a  la  Bercy  (2910) 
Chicken  halibut  with  carrots  (1173) 
Spinal  marrow  of  veal,  Villeroi  (1549) 
Stewed  mutton  kidneys  a  la  Burtel  (1616) 
Chateaubriand  Colbert  sauce  (1381) 
Anna  potatoes  (2770) 
Mars  cake  (3318) 
Fruits  (3699) 


16 


Anchovy  salad  (772) 
Eggs  Russian  style  (2865) 
Fresh  herring  paupiettes  with  milts  (1176) 
Duck  giblets,  housekeeper's  style  (1927) 
Edible  snails,  Bourguignonne  (1015) 
Veal  cutlets  a  la  Seymour  (1497) 
Demi-glace  potatoes  (2784) 
Triumvirat  fritters  (3050) 


17 

Bouillabaisse  a  la  Marengo  (1123) 

Scrambled  eggs  with  mushrooms  (2942) 

Oxtail  chipolata  (1321) 

Fried  artichoke  bottoms  (2683) 

Broiled  chicken  a  la  Delisle  (1828) 

Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Light  pancakes  with  preserves  (3079) 

Dessert 


19 

Palmettes  Perrier  (922) 

Poached  eggs  with  spinach  (2933) 

Lobster,  Duglere  (1031) 

Shoulder  of    mutton   marinated   with  cream 

sauce  (1651) 

Fried  asparagus  tips  a  la  Miranda  (2696) 
Aspic  of  foies  gras  (small)  (2412) 
Broiled  partridge,  English  style  (2085) 
Cheese  (3697) 


18 


Soft  eggs  chipolata  (2949) 
Fried  frostfish  (1160) 
Slices  of  mutton  puree  of  beans  (1635) 
Pork  cutlets  with  fine  herbs  (1780) 
Potato  and  beetroot  salad  (2652) 
Broiled  squab,  Colbert  sauce  (2013) 
Compote  (3686) 
Coffee  (3701) 


Marinated  smelts  (821) 

Poached  eggs  Villeroi  (2928) 

Lamb's  trotters  a  la  Bordelaise  (1766) 

Turtle  stew  a  la  Foster  (1093) 

Lentils  with  bacon  (2750) 

Roasted  tenderloin  of  pork  with  gravy 

(1817) 

Apples,  Portuguese  style  (2998) 
Stewed  fruits  (3686) 


30 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


JANUARY— BEEAKF  AST. 

21 

Anchovy  salad  (772) 
Ham  omelet  with  green  peas  (2893) 
Small  green  turtle  baked  (1092) 
Sheep's  trotters  a  la  poulette  (1659) 
Green  peas  with  braised  lettuce  (2746) 
Squabs  in  earthenware  saucepan   (2018) 
Water-cress  salad  with  apples  (2676) 
Dessert 


Radishes  (808) 
Olives  (800) 

Crabs,  Carolina  style  (1003j 
Gosling  stewed  with  turnips  (1954) 
Neck  of  lamb  with  cabbage  (1729) 
Oyster  plant  poulette  (2817) 
Pork  tenderloins,  Printaniere  (1813) 
Celestine    omelet    with    whipped    cream 
(3057) 


* 

23 

Boiled  eggs  (2856) 

Perch  stuffed  and  baked  (1210) 

Corned  beef  with  cabbage  (1315) 

Hashed  young  rabbit  (2303) 

Celery  stalks  with  veloute"  sauce  (2721) 

Truffled  pigs'  feet,  Perigord  sauce  (1786) 

Bavarois  with  meringues  (3133) 

Dessert 


24: 


Canapes  of  anchovies  (777) 
Salt    mackerel    with  cream  horseradish 
sauce  (1195) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  pudding  with  oysters 

(2322) 

Smothered  red  beans  (2700) 
Tripe,  Lyonnese  style  (1475) 
Broiled  quail  (2131) 
Rum  omelet  (3059) 
Rouen  mirlitons  (3323) 


25 

Marinated  tunny  fish  (831) 
Soft  clams  on  skewers  (999) 
Cucumber  salad  (2661) 
Stewed  lamb,  Parisian  style  (1756) 
Trevise  tomatoes  (2836) 
Pork  cutlets,  Aurora  (1776) 
Omelet  with  russet  apples  (3071) 
Dessert 


26 


Oysters  (803) 

Omelet  a  la  Andrews  (2898) 

Minced  tenderloin  of  pork  a,  la  minute 

(1812) 

Lambs'  tails,  Conti  (1763) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 
Edible  snails  a  la  Saintonge  (1014) 
Parisian  cakes  (3321) 
Dessert 


27 

Shad,  Irish  style,  garnished  with  croquettes 

(1254) 

Rissoles  of  mushrooms  with  marrow  (953) 
Neck  of  veal  au  blanc  (1538) 
Potatoes  a  la  Bignon  (2773) 
Lambs'  tongues  with  olives  (1765) 
Baked  stuffed  eggplants  (2738) 
Rum  omelet  (3059) 
Dessert 


28 


Olives  (800) 

Westphalian  ham  (786) 

Spotted  fish  with  court  bouillon,  Calcutta 

(1287) 

Fried  oxtails  (1323) 
Stuffed  mushrooms  in  cases  (2762) 
Green  turtle,  Havana  style  (1091) 
Eggs  with  cream,  meringued  (3032) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


31 


FEBRUARY- 

29 

Caviare  canapes  (777) 

Bonvalet  omelet  (2882) 

Codfish  tongues  with  chopped  sauce  (1141) 

Truffled  pigs'  feet  (1785) 

Kernel  of  veal  with  thickened  gravy  (1521) 

German  salad  with  croutons  (2664) 

Broiled  ptarmigan  (2071) 

Dessert 


BREAKFAST. 

SO 

Bouillabaisse  Parisian  (1124) 
Eggs  on  a  dish,  Bienvenue  (2911) 
Pork  cutlets  with  mashed  potatoes  (1782) 
Poulpetonniere  pigeons  (2321) 
Broiled  bear  steak  (2046) 
Pont-Neuf  potatoes  (2800) 
Stewed  or  compoted  fruits  (3686) 
Coffee  (3701) 

4. 'It 


31 

Oysters  and  lemons  (803) 

Eggs  miroir  a  la  Provencal  (2854) 

Chicken  halibut  baked  with  Parmesan  (1172) 

Blanquette  of  breast  of  veal  a  la  Jacquart  (1490) 

Sauerkraut  garnished  (2819) 

Beefsteak  with  fine  herbs  (1374) 

Celery  salad  (2661) 

Preserved  large  white  currants  (3678) 


32 


Westphalian  ham  (786) 

Bertini  omelet  (2881) 

Salt  herring  with  mashed  potatoes  (1177) 

Lamb  carbonade  a  la  Rambuteau  (1667) 

Broiled  pullet,  tartar  sauce  (1991) 

Cream  of  biscuits  with  kirsch  (3011) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Dessert 


33 

Matelote  a  la  mariniere,  St.  Mande  (1201) 
Scrambled  eggs  with  fine  herbs  (2939) 
Lambs'  trotters,  Chantilly  (1767) 
Hashed  chicken.  Ancient  style  (2293) 
Sarah  potatoes  (2802) 
Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 
Corn  salad  (2669) 
Scuffled  fritters  with  lemon  peel  (3048) 


Chiffonade  potatoes  (807) 
Hard-boiled  eggs,  New  York  style  (2864) 
Frostfish  or  whiting  baked  (1161) 
Lamb  hash  with  bananas  (2296) 
Potatoes  a  la  Parmentier  (2811) 
Rump  steak  a  la  Villageoise  (1367) 
Apple  tartlets  (3327) 
Coffee  (3701) 


35 

Quenelles  of  fish,  Montglas  (2330) 
Turkey  giblets,  salamander  (2033) 
Beef  hash,  Sam  Ward  (2288) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 
Veal  kidneys  a  1' Anderson  (1524) 
Broiled  ptarmigan  (2071) 
Rum  omelet    (3059) 
Fruits  (3699) 


36 


Scrambled  eggs  with  tomatoes  (2946) 
Minced  leg  of  mutton  a  la  Lyonnaise  (163?-) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 
Veal  kidneys  a  la  Roederer  (1525) 
Pigs'  feet  a  la  St.  Menehould  (1783) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Raynal  (2756) 
Apples  with  butter  (2999) 
Dessert 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


37 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 
Eggs  in  cases  a  la  Colbert  (2874) 
Cisco  fish,  Castillane  sauce  (1134) 
Kernel  of  ham,  Biarritz  (1794) 
Veal  cutlets  maitre-d'hotel  (1501) 
Dandelion  salad  (2670) 
Compote  (3686) 
Coffee  (3701) 


MAKCH— BREAKFAST. 

38 

Eggs  on  a  dish  (2909) 

Salt  codfish,  Spanish  style  (1142) 

Calf's  brains,  Aurora  (1479) 

Frogs'  legs  deviled  (1020) 

Tournedos  of  beef,  Victorin  (1438) 

Marshall  potatoes  (2796) 

Apple  fritters,  "Montagnard  (3037) 

Dessert 


39 

Fried  anchovies  (1249) 
Eggs  a  la  Gibson  (2861) 
Kingfish,  Princelay  (1184) 
Minced  tenderloin   of  beef  with   potato  cro- 
quettes (1398) 

Broiled  chicken  with  tarragon  gravy  (1831) 
Endive  salad  (2671) 
Apple  pie  (3199) 
Dessert 


4:0 


Smoked  beef  (822) 
Plain  omelet  with  cream  (2886) 
Weakfish  a  la  Brighton  (1308) 
Jugged  neck  of  mutton  (1639) 
Potato  croquettes  in  surprise  (2782) 
Lobster  mayonnaise  (2534) 
Pullet  legs  with  new  carrots  (2005) 
Quartered  apple  fritters  (3041) 


4,1 

Spanish  olives  with  anchovies  (800) 

Eggs  on  a  dish  a  la  Monaco  (2916) 

Smoked  herring  with  cream  (1178) 

Stewed  lamb,  Duglere  (1754) 

Mussels  mariniere  (1046) 

Beefsteak  Bordelaise  with  marrow  (1371) 

Duchess  dariole  cakes  (3299y 

Dessert 


4,2 


Shad  marinated  (787) 

Poached  eggs  a  la  Mirabeau  (2927) 

Matelote  a  la  Talabasse  (1202) 

Sliced  kernel  of  pork  a  la  Cavour  (1795) 

Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Rib  steak  a  la  Bercy  (1364) 

Omelet  stuffed  with  strawberries  (3068) 

Dessert 


43 

Eggs  miroir,  Jockey  Club  (2851) 

Lambs'  kidneys  glazed  (1702) 

Baked  beef  palate,  Chevreuse  (1327) 

Potatoes  persillade  (2774) 

Chicken  legb  as  cutlets  with  olives  (1875) 

TreMse  tomatoes  (2836) 

Lambs'  brains  with  mayonnaise  (2446) 

Dessert 


4=4: 


Anchovy  salad  (772) 
Hard-boiled  egg  croquettes  (2863) 
Breast  of  veal  stew  with  roux  (1491) 
Brussels  sprouts  sauted  (2704) 
Sheep's  tongue,  Neapolitan  style  (1658) 
Potato  shavings  (2807) 
Baked  chicken  in  shells  (2345) 
Fruits  (3699) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


33 


45 

Broiled  sardines  (1249) 
Omelet  Desjardins  (2887) 
Fried  gudgeons  (1163) 
Rump  of  beef  miroton  (1344) 
Guinea  fowl  with  sauerkraut  (1958) 
Mutton  chops.  Tavern  style  (1592) 
Sou  filed  potatoes  (2808) 
Strawberries  and  cream  (3699) 


APRIL— BREAKFAST. 

46 

Anchovy  salad  (772) 

Eggs  on  a  dish,  English  style  (2914) 

Lamprey  a  la  Rabelais  (1189) 

Baked  mashed  potatoes  (2798) 

Calf's  brains  tomatoed,  Bearnaise  (1485) 

Sirloin  steak.  Ancient  style  (1373) 

Broiled  squabs,  Colbert  sauce  (2013) 

Rum  omelet  (3059) 


* 

47 

Aries  sausage  (818) 

Canapes  of  shrimps  (777) 

Scrambled  eggs  with  tomato  puree  (2945) 

Smelts  fried  on  skewers,  tartar  sauce  (1269) 

Kernel  of  leg  of  mutton  in  papers  (1631) 

Calf's  brains  a  la  poulette  (1481) 

Broiled    chicken   with    bacon,    maitre-d'hotel 

(1830) 
Apples  with  butter  (2999) 


48 


Oysters  and  lemons  (803) 
Mackerel  in  oil  (797) 
Hard-boiled  eggs  a  la  Benoist  (2859) 
Matelote  of  canotiers  (1 203) 
Broiled  pig's  feet  (1784) 
Cabbage,  peasant  style  (2706) 
Roasted  wild  squabs  (2018) 
Provengal  potatoes  (2801) 


49 

Marinated  sardines  (817) 

Eggs  on  a  dish  with  tomatoes  (2924) 

Salmon  (salt)  a  la  Bedlow  (1247) 

Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Flat  sausages  with  tomato  Soubise  (1805) 

Broiled  tenderloin,  anchovy  butter  (1424) 

Endive  salad  (2671) 

Nougat  of  apricots,  cake  (3319) 


5O 


Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 
Omelet,  Duxelle  with  fine  herbs  (2888) 
Carp  broiled  and  breaded  maitre-d'hotel 

(1130) 

Baked  potatoes  with  cream  (2780) 
Mutton  kidneys  on  skewers  (1618) 
Broiled  chicken  with  tarragon  sauce  (1831) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 
Apple  charlotte  (3008) 


51 

Eggs  molded  in  cocottes  a  la  Bedford  (2873) 

Lobsters  a  la  Delmonico  (1037) 

Veal  cutlets  a  la  Zingara  (1498) 

String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Terrine  of  duck's  liver  a  1'Aquitaine  (2596) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Strawberry  short  cake  (3262) 


Small  trout   fried   and    marinated    with 

wine  (829) 
Ham  and  green  pea  omelet  (2893) 

Stuffed     lambs'    trotters    with   tarragon 
gravy  (1769) 

Squabs  a  la  Crapaudine  (2007) 
Sausages  with  truffles  (1806) 
Cream  with  lemon  peel  in  pots  (3155) 
Croustades  a  la  Castillane  (895) 
Dessert 


34 


EPICUREAN. 


53 

Clams  (803) 

Spanish  omelet  (2907) 

Salt  codfish  a  la  Villageoise  (1144) 

Turnips  with  Bechamel  (2848) 

Calf's  brains  with  black  butter  (1484) 

Chicken  pie  a  la  Rigolo  (2371) 

Terrine  of  larks  (2601) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 


MAY— BREAKFAST: 
54, 

Eggs  a  1' Aurora  (2857) 
Pompano  a  la  Carondelet  (1221) 
Lamb  stew,  Irish  style  (1758) 
Macaroni,  Parisian  style  (2961) 
Mussels  baked  with  fine  herbs  (1050) 
Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  (1399) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 
Herisson  tartlets  (3333) 


55 

Stuffed  clams  (997) 

Fried  carp  with  parsley  (1131) 

Scrambled  eggs  with  tomatoes  and  chives  (2946) 

Baked  breast  of  lamb  (1662) 

Chicken  pie  (2554) 

Veal  kidneys  with  marrow  (1526) 

Potato  and  herring  salad  (2653) 

Frangipane  omelet  (3058) 


56 


Canapes  Brownson  (853) 
Porgies  a  la  Manhattan  (1229) 
Boiled  eggs  (2856) 
Smoked  beef  with  cream  (1358) 
Lamb  kidneys  on  skewers  (1703) 
Mashed  potatoes  in  snow  (2798) 
Roast  squabs  with  water-cress  (2018) 
Bermuda  onion  salad  (2665) 


57 

Fried  soft  shell  crabs  (1006) 

Scrambled  eggs  with  Piedmont  truffles  (2948) 

Matelote  of  carp,  Miroir  (1204) 

Hashed  mutton  a  la  Omer  Pacha  (2297) 

Potatoes  in  surprise  (2809) 

Broiled  partridge,  English  style  (2085) 

Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Francillon  cake  (3305) 


Hot  potato  salad  (2654) 

Havanese  omelet  (2894) 

Stuffed  carp  a  la  Champenoise  (1133) 

Paupiettes  of  tripe  (1477) 

Lamb's  head,  vinaigrette  sauce  (1698) 

Small  sirloin  steak  a  la  Bordelaise  (1370) 

Potato  cakes  with  ham  (2779) 

Pelerine  tartlets  (3335) 


59 

Cassolettes  a  la  Montholon  (861) 
Poached  eggs  a  la  Boeldieu  (2925) 
Shoulder  of  lamb  with  puree  of  celery  (1753) 
Baked  cauliflower  a  la  Bechamel  (2715) 
Calf's  brains,  peasant  style  (1483) 
Cold  asparagus,  vinaigrette  sauce  (2692) 
Small  Celestine  omelet  (3056) 
Dessert 


60 


Anchovy  salad  (772) 

Ham  omelet  with  green  peas  (2893) 

Small  green  turtle  baked  (1092) 

Sheep's  trotters  a  la  poulette  (1659) 

Green  peas  with  braised  lettuce  (2746) 

Roasted  squabs  (2018) 

Water-cress  salad  with  apples  (2676) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


35 


61 


Omelet  a  la  Andrews  (2898) 
Bluefish,  Havanese  style  (1118) 
Calf's  brains  in  matelote  (1482) 
Baked  potatoes  (2771) 
Clams,  Philadelphia  style  (994) 
Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 
Watercress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 
Baskets  filled  with  oranges  (3570) 

*— 

63 

Shrimps  in  side  dishes  (819) 

Hard-boiled  eggs  with  noodles  a  la  Carolli 

(2860) 
Bluefish  with  mayonnaise  and  tarragon  (1121) 

Paupiettes  of  fillet  of  mutton  a  la  Delussan 
(1613) 

Slices  of  round  of  veal  with  gravy  (1547) 
Green  peas  a  la  Fleurette  (2741) 
Broiled  duckling  with  green  mayonnaise  (1938) 
Crescents  of  noodles  with  cherries  (3015) 


JUNE— BREAKFAST. 

62 

Shrimps  with   mushrooms  and  tomatoes, 


Bearuaise  (1081) 

Fried  eggs  with  chopped  parsley  (2871) 
Angel  fish  a  la  Bahama  (1094) 
Calf's  lights  a  la  Mariniere  (1529) 
Minced  lamb  a  la  Rivera  (1719) 
Cauliflower  with  fried  breadcrumbs  (2718) 
Hamburg  steak  a  la  tartare  (1361) 
Bordelaise  potatoes,  new  (2775) 


64, 


Sweetbread  canapes  (857) 
Scrambled  eggs  with  gravy  (2940) 
Codfish  cakes  (1145) 
Oxtail,  Alsatian  style  (1322) 
Lamb  cutlets.  Maintenon  (1678) 
Mussels  stuffed,  Toulousian  (1049) 
Roast  pullet  with  water  cress  (1996) 
Dampfnoodles  with  cream  (3030) 


65 

Cucumber  fillets  salted,  Russian  style  (783) 
Eggs  on  a  dish,  Creole  style  (2913) 
Blackfish  a  la  Orly  (1114) 
Tendon  of  veal  a  la  Bayeux  (1581) 

Kidneys  of  lamb,  stewed  with   Madeira  and 
mushrooms  (1704) 

Broiled  squabs  a  la  Crapaudine  (2007) 

Potatoes  sauted  with  artichoke  bottoms  and 
truffles  (2805) 

Border  cf  rice  with  bananas  (3005) 


66 


Crusts  a  la  Morton  (904) 
Omelet  with  caviare  a  la  Stoeckel  (2902) 
Sea  bass  with  almond  butter  (1100) 
Crepine    of    lamb's    trotters,   Perigueux 

sauce  (2242) 

Kohl-rabies,  housekeeper's  style  (2708) 
Broiled  chicken  with  bacon  maitre-d'hotel 

(1830) 
Slices  of  fillet  of  veal,  Pelerine  potatoes 

(1514) 
Cream  pie  (3201) 


67 

Anchovy  salad  (772) 
Perch.  Polish  style  (1208) 
Mashed  potatoes  in  snow  (2798) 
Squab  cutlets  in  papers  (2270) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Provencal  (2835) 
Asparagus  tips  a  la  Miranda  (2696) 
Fresh  cherry  fritters  (3042) 
Dessert 


68 


Tunny  marinated  (831) 

Onion  and  ham  omelet  (2900) 

Turkey  wings  with  turnips  (2043) 

Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Baked  tripe  with  parmesan  cheese  (1474) 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Mornay  (2680) 

Crusts  with  Madeira  (3026) 

Dessert 


36 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


69 

Marinated  sardines  (817) 

Cheese  omelet  (2883) 

Pompano  a  la  Duclair  (1222) 

Anna  potatoes  (2770) 

Sausages  with  white  wine  (1807) 

Mussels  a  la  poulette  (1047) 

Duckling,  green  mayonnaise  with  fine  herbs 

(1938) 
Columbia  tartlets  (3330) 


JULY  -BREAKFAST. 
7O 

Hard-boiled  eggs  a  la  Washburn  (2862) 
Porgy  paupiettes,  Hindostan  (1230) 
Lamb  hash,  Creole  style  (2295) 
Chicken  legs  a  la  Saulniere  (1873) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 
Sirloin  steak,  ancient  style  (1373) 
Genoese  cake  merigued  (3308) 
Dessert 


71 

Radishes  (808) 

Molded  fresh  butter  (775) 

Fried  eggs  with  brown  butter  (2870) 

Blackfish  a  la  Sanford  (1115) 

Rump  of  beef,  mirotons  a  la  menagere  (1344) 

Puree  of  Jerusalem  artichokes  (704) 

Lamb  salad  a  la  Somer  (2637) 

Chicken  legs  in  papers  (1876) 

Casino  cakes  (3293) 


Scrambled  eggs  with  lobster  garnished 
with  Villeroi  mussels  (2941) 

Baked  kingfish  (1186) 

Noisettes  of  mutton  with  cooked  fine  herbs 
(1612) 

Veal  kidneys  with  white  wine  (1527) 

Beef,  Chateaubriand  maitre  d'hotel  (1382) 

Sarah  potatoes  (2802) 

Mirabeau  rice  (3213) 

Dessert 


73 

Fried  shrimps  (1080) 
Eggs  on  a  dish,  Fermiere  (2915) 
Brandade  of  salt  codfish  (1146) 
Lambs'  crows,  ravigote  sauce  (1668) 
Ribs  of  beef,  old  style  (1332) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 
Fruits  a  la  Creole  (3051) 
Dessert 


74= 


Caviare  canapes  (777) 

Green  omelet  with  fine  herbs  (2892) 

Deviled  bluefish  (1119) 

Clam  pancakes  or  fritters  (996) 

Calf  s  brains  a  la  Chassaigne  (1480) 

Mutton  tendons  with  mushrooms  (1656) 

Roasted  squab  with  watercress  (2018) 

Small  babas  with  rum  (3288) 


75 

Varenskis  polonaise  (993) 
Shad  with  sorrel  puree  (1256) 
Eggs  au  miroir  a  la  Lully  (2852) 
Lamb  stew,  Navarin  (1755) 
Beef  and  tomato  salad  (2623) 
Baked  hash  of  chicken  (2293) 
Barigoule  artichokes  (2689) 
Printanier  boats  (cakes)  (3291) 


76 


Poached  eggs  with  spinach  (2933) 
Pike  perch  a  la  Financiere  (1214) 
Breast  of  lamb  with  veloute  tomato  sauce 
(1665) 

White  bean  salad  (2658) 
Sausages  Gastronome  (1802) 
Spare  ribs,  Parisian  style  (1808) 
Risot  a  la  Ristori  (2980) 
Fruits  (3699) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


37 


77 

Parsley  omelet  (2903) 

Butterfish  marinated  and  fried  (1127) 

Sausages  with  tomato  Soubise  sauce  (1805) 

Potted  pigeons  (1965) 

Sliced  leg  of  lamb  a  la  Dordogne  (1710) 

Cream  potatoes  baked  (2781) 

Dessert 


AUGUST— BREAKFAST. 

78 

Canapes  of  herring,  Russian  style  (777) 
Eggs  au  miroir  a  la  Meyerbeer  (2853) 
Kingfish  on  the  dish  a  187) 
Calf's  liver  a  la  Claremont  (1530) 
Plain  boiled  potatoes  (2774) 
Broiled  squabs  (2013) 
Madeira  crusts  (3026) 
Dessert 


79 

Fried  eggs  a  la  sole  (2869) 

Fresh  mackerel  in  papers,  Mephisto  (1192) 

Stewed  lamb  with  turnips  (1759) 

Calf's  liver  and  bacon  (1531) 

Provengal  potatoes  (2801) 

Venison  fillets  a  la  Lorenzo  (2177) 

D'Artois  cake  with  apricot  marmalade  (3302) 

Dessert 


80 


Celery  vinaigrette  (779) 

Eggs  on  a  dish,  Venetian  style  (2920) 

Bonito  a  la  Godivier  (1122) 

Tournedos  of  beef,  Talabasse  (1437) 

Potatoes,  omelet  shape  (2806) 

Broiled  reedbirds  (2151) 

Conde  cakes  (3297) 

Dessert 


81 

Lobster  canapes  (777) 

Scrambled  eggs  a  la  Duxelle  with  anchovy 

croustade  (2935) 

Salt  codfish,  Faraday  crowns  (1147) 
Minions  of  veal  puree  of  artichokes  (1509) 
Lamb  hash  a  la  Celestine,  baked  (2294) 
Broiled  chicken  with  tarragon  gravy  (1831) 
Eggplant  salad,  Provengal  (2663) 
Gooseberry  tart  (3309) 


82 


Omelet  with  clams  (2885) 
Porgy  with  Chablis  wine  (1231) 
Tripe  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (1478) 
Lamb  fries,  tomato  sauce  (1696) 

Baked  cream  potatoes  (2780) 
Roast  duck  (1921) 
Valentine  cake  with  rum  (3265) 
Dessert 


83 

Salmon  quenelles  stuffed  (2335) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  Madeira  half  glaze 

(1425) 

Green  peas  with  braised  lettuce  (2746) 
Frog's  legs  a  la  d'Antin  (1017) 
Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 
Omelet  stuffed  with  preserves  (glazed)  (8067) 
Cheese  (3697) 
Fruits  (3699) 


84, 


Anchovy  butter  canapes  (777) 

Shrimp  omelet  (2906) 

Pike  perch  a  la  Geraldin  (1215) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  a  la  Berthier  (1411) 

Chicken  quenelles  a  la  Drew  (2326) 

Broiled  duckling  (1938) 

Gooseberry  tart  (3309) 

Dessert 


38 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


85 

Broiled  eels,  tartar  sauce  (1150) 

Omelet  with  mushrooms  (2899) 

Hashed  tenderloin  of  beef,  Sheppler  (2289) 

Chipolata  sausages  (1801) 

Partridge  a  la  Baudrimont  (2093) 

Italian  salad  (2635) 

Hollandaise  potatoes  with  melted  butter  (2790) 

Gooseberry  flawn  (3173) 


* 

87 

Sardine  canapes  (777) 

Fried  eggs  with  ham  or  bacon  (2872) 

Buffalo  fish,  cream  sauce  (1126) 

Marshal  potatoes  (2796) 

Partridge  with  olives  (2103) 

Slices  of  fillet  of  mutton  maitre-d'hotel  (1614) 

Peeled  tomato  salad  (2666) 

Pumpkin  pie  (3203) 


SEPTEMBER—  BREAKFAST. 

86 

Blackfish  a  la  Villaret  (1116) 
Scrambled  eggs  a  la  Columbus  (2934) 
Yearling  lamb  cutlets  in  crepinette  (1691) 
Veal,  minced  Sicilian  style  (1544) 
Parsnip  cakes  fried  in  butter  (2767) 
Beefsteak  a  la  Perigueux  (1376) 
Baked  Biarritz  potatoes  (2772) 
Pancakes  with  orange-flower  water  (3078) 


* 


88 


Shrimps  in  side  dishes  (819) 
Omelet  with  sausages  (2905) 
Picked-up  codfish  with  cream  (1148) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 
Venison  cutlets  deviled  (2173) 
Cepes,  Provengal  style  (2723) 
Broiled  plovers  (2118) 
Vanilla  Chantilly  eclairs  (3304) 


89 

Oysters  on  half  shell  (803) 

Small  trout  marinated  in  wine  (829) 

Eggs  on  a  dish,  Omer  Pacha  (2917) 

Lafayette  fish  breaded,  English  style  (1188) 

Turkey  giblets,  peasant  style  (2034) 

Calf's  brains  crepinettes  (2244) 

Julienne  potatoes  (2792) 

Peach  with  rice  tartlets  (3334) 


9O 


Shrimp  canapes  (777) 

Argentine  omelet  (2878) 

Bluefish  in  papers  (1120) 

Stewed  lamb,  Peruvian  style  (1757) 

Partridge  with  sauerkraut  (2104) 

Spare  ribs,  Parisian  style  (1808) 

Potato  salad  (2654) 

Semolina  croquettes,  pistachio  sauce  (3019) 


91 

Eggs  cocottes  (2873) 

Shoulder  of  mutton  with  turnips  (1654) 

Black  blood  pudding  (1772) 

Gosling  saut6d  with  tomatoes,  Robert  sauce 

(1953) 

Baked  noodles  (2971) 
Minced  venison  (2184) 
Broiled  grouse  (2071) 
Dessert 


Poached  eggs,  matelote  (2930) 

Mackerel,  with  white  piquante  sauce  (1194) 

Tripe,  Parisian  style  (1476) 

Venison  hash,  American  style  (2301) 

White  beans,  maitre-d'hotel  (2701) 

Broiled  reedbirds  (2151) 

Fresh  fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


BIJ^LS    OF 


39 


93 

Spinal  marrow  a  la  Barnave  (1548) 
Omelet  with  fine  herbs  (2889) 
Redsnapper  a  la  Cherot  (1232) 
Gastronome  potatoes  (2789) 
Pork  cutlets  half  glaze  and  with  apples  (1777) 
Scallops  a  la  Mariniere  (1076) 
Bound  steak  with  water-cress  (1366) 
Cream  cakes  with  whipped  cream  (3296) 


OCTOBER— BEE  AK  FAST. 
94= 

Alligator  pears  (771) 

Scrambled  eggs  a  la  Jerome  (2936) 

Pork  chops.  Castillane  sauce  (1778) 

Lyonnese  potatoes  (2794) 

Calf's  liver  with  fine  herbs  (1533) 

Red  cabbage  salad  (2659) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Coffee  (3701) 


95 

Fried  shrimps  (1080) 
Omelet  with  ham  and  green  peas  (2893) 
Kingfish  a  la  Bordelaise  (1181) 
Veal  hash  cakes,  Brittany  style  (2300) 
Beetroot  fritters  with  cream  (2702) 
Yearling  lamb  cutlets  (1669) 
Potatoes  fried  and  channeled  (2787) 
Coffee  (3701) 


96 


Windsor  canapes  (777) 
Omelet  with  kidneys  (2897) 
Buffalo  fish,  cream  sauce  (1126) 
Breast  of  pork  with  cabbage  (1773) 
Calf's  liver,  Italian  style  (1532) 
Roasted  plovers  (2119) 
Potatoes,  housekeeper's  style  (2791) 
Cannelons  a  la  Celestine  (3292) 


97 

Tongue  canapes  (777) 

Eggs  on  a  dish  with  chopped  ham  (2923) 

Fisherman's  Matelote  (1205) 

Mutton  kidneys  a  la  Soubise  (1617) 

Broiled  tripe,  tartar  sauce  (1473) 

Ruddy  duck  roasted  (2066) 

Creamed  potatoes  (2781) 

Apricot  cakes  with  cream  of  almonds  (3287) 


98 


99 

Poached  eggs  with  gravy  (2931) 

Cupola  of  salt  codfish,  Biscaienne  (2254) 

Lamb  stewed  with  turnips  (1 759) 

Broiled  plovers  (2118) 

Corned  beef  hash  (2290) 

Omelet  souffle  with  preserves  (3065) 

Coffee  (3701) 

Dessert 


Canapes  with  sliced  salmon  (777) 
Fried  eggs,  Neapolitan  style  (2868) 
Mullet,  D'Antin  sauce  (1206) 
Calf's  brains  with  Venetian  sauce  (1486) 
Pullet  legs  a  la  Bayonnaise  (2003) 
Mutton  chops  Soyer  (1591) 
Provengal  potatoes  (2801) 
Biscuits  in  cases  with  cream  (3289) 


1OO 

Soft  eggs  for  epicures  (2950) 

Oyster  patties  (939) 

Lamb  minion  fillet  pudding  a  la  Gladstone 

(2323) 

String  beans  with  butter  (2829) 
Salisbury  steak  (1359) 
Mundane  fritters  (3044) 
Fruits  (3699) 
Dessert 


40 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBER- 

101 

Crawfish  canapes  (777) 

Omelet  with  frogs  (2890) 

Fresh  herring  a  la  Calaisienne  (1174) 

Pork  cutlets,  gherkin  sauce  (1781) 

Chicken  legs,  pure"e  of  Jerusalem  artichokes 

(1877) 

Porterhouse  steak  (1362) 

Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Crescents  with  preserves  (8298) 


BREAKFAST. 

1O2 

Oysters  tartare  (804) 
Eggs  on  a  dish,  Plumerey  (2918) 
Red  snapper  a  la  Princess  (1236) 
Hashed  partridge  Clemenceau  style  (2298) 
Kulash  a  la  Finnoise  (1318) 
Broiled  chicken  with  bacon  maitre-d'hotel 
(1830) 

Baked  Biarritz  potatoes  (2772) 

D'Artois  cake   with    apricot    marmalade 
(3302) 


103 

Beets  marinated  (774) 
Soft  eggs  with  pure"e  of  sorrel  (2951) 
Maskinonge  a  la  Providence  (1207) 
Potato  croquettes  maisienne  (2782) 
Beef  palate  a  la  Bechamel  (1326) 
Minced  partridge  with  rice  (2091) 
Redhead  duck  roasted  (2063) 
Goronflot  (3310) 


1O4, 

Anchovy  canapes  (777) 

Omelet  of  beef  palate  (2880) 

Fresh  mackerel,  Bonnefoy  (1191) 

Jugged  venison  (2180) 

Flat  sausage  broiled  with  tomato  Soubise 

sauce  (1805) 

Delmonico  sirloin  steak,  plain  (1375) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 
Marrow  f rangipane  pie  (3088) 


105 

Fried  eels,  tartar  sauce  (1150) 

Scrambled  eggs  with  Swiss  cheese  (2944) 

Calf's  tails  with  cabbage  (1580) 

Zampino,  Modena  style  with  string  beans  (1820) 

Mutton  cutlets  a  la  Bouchere  (1593) 

Potatoes  half  glaze  (2784) 

Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 

German  pancake  (3074) 


106 

Boiled  perch,  Valois  sauce  (1209) 
Omelet  with  smoked  herring  (2895) 
Calf's  head  a  la  poulette  (1516) 
Troyes   Chitterlings  (1775) 
Rib  steak  of  beef  a  la  Royer  (1365) 
Potatoes,  housekeeper's  style  (2791) 
Woodcock  roasted  (2206) 
Wells  of  love  (3338) 


1O7 

Molded  eggs  in  cases  a  1'Echiquier  (2875) 

Pike  perch  a  la  Royale  (1216) 

Breast  of  mutton  (haricot)  with  turnips  (1588) 

Jugged  rabbit  with  blood  (2141) 

Marinated  pork  tenderloin  (1815) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

Puff  paste  galette  (3306) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 


1O8 

Whitefish  a  la  Gherardi  (1311) 
Eggs  molded  a  la  Parisian  (2876) 

Mutton    kidneys  on  skewers,  Bordelaise 
sauce  (1619) 

Tripe  a  la  mode  de  Caen  (1471) 

Stuffed   tomatoes  with  fresh  mushrooms 

(2842) 

Roast  squabs  with  water-cress  (2018) 
Cheese  (3697) 


OF    FARE. 


109 

Bartholomew  canapes  (852) 
Fried  eggs  a  la  Montebello  (2867) 
Wall  eyed  pike  a  la  Durance  (1213) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 
Young  rabbit,  Valencia  style  (2139) 
Roast  Guinea  fowl  (1958) 
Corn  salad  (2669) 
Darioles  with  vanilla  (3301) 


DECEMBER— BEEAKF  AST. 

110 

Sardine  canapes  (777) 

Omelet  with  onions  and  ham  (2900) 

Fresh  herrings  mustard  sauce  (1175) 

Woodcock  pudding  (2325) 

Bag  sausage  fried  (1803) 

Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 

Galettes,  half  puffed  (3306) 


111 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 

Eels  fried  with  butter  and  fine  herbs  (1151) 

Scrambled  eggs  a  la  Martinez  (2937) 

Oxtail  a  la  Castsllane  (1320) 

Bussy  potatoes  (2777) 

Broiled  canvasback  duck  (2054) 

Oyster  plant  salad  (2656) 

Lafayette  cakes  with  rum  (3313) 


112 


Onion  soup  with  Parmesan  cheese  (331) 
German  carp  with  sauerkraut  (1132) 
Omelet  with  bacon  (2879) 
Blanquette    of  tenderloin  of   pork  with 

mushrooms  (1814) 
Minion  fillets  of  lamb,  shallot  sauce  vriih 

marrow  (1727) 

Potatoes,  housekeeper's  style  (2791) 
Blackhead  duck  roasted  (2052) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 
Demonet  tartlets  (3331) 


* 

114, 

Frostfish,  Cherbourg  style  (1159) 
Eggs  on  a  dish  with  bacon  (2921) 
Tripe  a  la  poulette  with  mushrooms  (1472) 
Paupiettes  of  fillets  of  veal  a  la  Whittier 

(1511) 

Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 
Roast  squabs  (2118) 
Monk's  beard  salad  (2674) 
Madelenes  with  rum  (3316) 


113 

Canapes  of  herring  (777) 

Oyster  omelet  (2901) 

Whitefish,  pimentade  sauce  (1312) 

Round  buttock  top  of  beef  baked  (1335) 

Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Roasted  pullet  with  water  cress  (1996) 

Apple  fritters,  Montagnard  (3037) 

Mince  pie  (3089) 


115 

Rissoles  of  crawfish  a  la  Beatrice  (949) 

Hunter's  omelet  (2896) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Sherman  (2468) 

Minced  tenderloin  of  beef,  Creole  style  (1397) 

Roast  duck  (1921) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Cheese  (3697) 


116 

Scrambled  eggs  with  sweetbreads  (2943) 

Lamb  fries,  cream  horseradish  sauce  (1696) 

Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Braised  duck  with  olives  (1924) 

Cepes  baked  with  cream  (2724) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Dessert 


42  THE    EPICUREAN. 


BILL  OF  FARE  FOR  INVALIDS 

Arrow  root,  Indian  (361) 
Bavaroise  (362) 

Chicken  broth,   plain  (363) 

Chicken  and  mutton  broth  with  barley  (364) 
Chicken  and  veal  broth  (365) 

Clam  broth  and  puree  (366) 

Custard  cream  of  chicken  or  game  (367) 
Extract  of  beef,  clarified  (369) 
Extract  of  beef,  plain  (368) 

Fish  broth  with  clams  (370) 

Frog  broth  and  puree  (371) 
Herb  broth  (372) 

Jelly  of  chicken  and  calf  s  feet  (373) 
Jelly  of  meat  and  calf's  feet  (374) 

Jelly  of  calf's  feet  with  Madeira  wine  (374) 

Mulled  egg  and  almond  milk  thickened  with  rice  flour  (376) 
Mutton  broth  (375) 

Pressed  beef  juice  (377) 

Pure"e  of  barley  with  chicken  broth  (378) 

Puree  of  chicken,  partridge,  grouse  or  roebuck  (379) 
Puree  of  oatmeal  or  wheaten  grits  (380) 
Sabayon  of  chicken  or  game  (381) 

Tea  of  beef,  mutton,  chicken  or  veal  (382) 
Veal  broth,  refreshing  (383) 

Wheat,  oat  or  barley  broth  (384) 


BILLS    OF    FARK. 


117  JANVIER. 

LUNCH,  12  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Ecrevisses  vinaigrette  (782) 
Caviar  garni  de  citrons  (778) 
Sarsac  Huitres    sur  coquilles  creuses 

(803) 

Bouillon  en  tasses  (187) 
Homard  a  la  creme  (1044) 

Champagne      Tournedos  filet  de  boeuf  a  la 
Perrier  Jouet  Roqueplan  (1436) 

Petit  s  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 
Kis  de   veau   a  la   Parisienne 

(1576) 

Macedoine  a  la  Montigny  (2755) 
Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  (1085) 

Chateau  Cailles     grillees     garnies      de 

Lagrange  cresson  (2128) 

Mousseline  de  foies  gras  a  la 

Dana  (2535) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

CJiampagne      Glace  soufflee  Favart  (3534) 
Macarons  d'angelique  (3380) 
Fruits  (3699) 
Bonbons  (3642) 
Cafe  (3701) 


1  •      118 


FEVRIER. 

LUNCH,  16  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Canapes  de  saumon  (777) 
Mortadella  (818) 


Consomme  de  volatile  (190) 

Chateau  Cotelettes  de  filet  de  boeuf  a  la 

Yquem  Babanine  (2255) 

Tomates  a  la  Trevise  (2836) 

CJiampagne      Poulet  saute  a  la  Marcel  (1892) 
Dry  Monopole  Petits    Pois    a  la    Parisienne 

(2745) 

Champignons  sous  cloche  (2761) 
Punch,  Favorite  (3508) 

Chateau  Becassines  roties  (2159) 

Larose       Salade  de  cresson  (2676) 


Omelette  soufflee  aux  pommes 
(3063) 

Gelee  a  la  Rose  (3181) 
Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

Glace  pommes  de  terre  farcies 
sauce  marasquin  (3575) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 
Cafe  (3701) 


119  MARS. 

LUNCH,  10  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Thon  marine  (831) 
Celeri  rave  (779) 

Haut  Consomme  (189) 

Sauterne        Canapes  Lorenzo  (855) 

Queues  de   petites   langoustes 
a  la  Monte  Carlo  (1036) 

Champagne      Cotelettes   d'agneau    Robinson 
Perrier  (1685) 

Jouet  Brut    Petits  pois  aux  laitues  (2746) 

Terrapene  Baltimore  (1083) 

Pontet  Canet    Pigeonneaux  grilles,  sauce  Col- 
bert (2013) 

Galantine  de  faisan   decoupee 
(2495) 

Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Omelette  soufflee  a  la  Vanille 
(3066) 

Glace  ponding,  Diplomate 
(3491) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 

Cafe  (3701) 


120  AVRIL. 

LUNCH,  14  COUVERTS. 

MENU. 

Punch  orange  a  la  Russe  (3613) 
Canapes  d'anchois  (777) 
Graves  Consomme  en  tasses  (189) 

Crabes     d'huitre     Salamandre 

(1005) 

St.  Estephe        Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Clem- 
entine (1673) 

Pommes    de    terre    fondantes 
(2799) 

Asperges  a  la  sauce  Hollandaise 
(2692) 

Champagne      Poulet     roti      a  la     casserole 
Mumm  Extra          (1881) 

Dry  Pate  de  jambon  (2558) 

Salade  de  romaine  (2675) 

Mazarine  a  Fananas  et  au  kirsch 
(3053) 

Gateau    St.     Honore    Sultane 
(3261) 

Plombiere  Richemont  (3481) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Petits  fours  (3364) 
Liqueurs  Cafe  (3701) 


44 


THE:  EPICUREAN. 


121  MAI. 

LUNCH.  16  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Lafaurie  Consomme  en  tasses  (189) 

Canapes  de  caviar  (777) 

Coquilles  de  homard  (2348) 

Champagne      Ailes    de    poulet    a    la  Genin 
Louis  (1843) 

Ecederer        Petits  pois  a  la  Parisienne  (3745) 

Bis  de  veau  a  la  St.  Cloud 
(1566) 

Tomates  farcies  aux  champig- 
nons (2842) 

Batailly  Poulet  grille  au  petit  sale  (1830) 

Galantine  de  caneton  en  forme 

de  poire  (2487) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 
Omelette   fourree    aux   fraises 

(3068) 

Gelee  macedoine  au  champagne 
(3179) 

Glace  mousse  S6miramis  (3471) 

Liqueurs          Fruits  (3699) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 
Cafe  (3701) 


122 

LUNCH,  16  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  printaniers 

(773) 

CliaUis  Bouillon  (187) 

Vieux         Moules  a  la  Villeroi  (1048) 

St.  Pierre          Noisettes  de  filet  de  boeuf  a  la 

Maire  (1415) 
Aubergines  a  la  Duperret  (2735) 

Champagne      Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Harrison 
Pommery  Sec  (1844) 

Concombres  farcis  (2734) 

Asperges     sauce     Hollandaise 
(2692) 

Sorbet  Tosca  (3519) 

Nuits  Pigeonneaux  rotis  a  la  casserole 

(2018) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Omelette  soufflee  aux  amandes 
(3062) 

Liqueurs  Fruits  (3699) 

Gateaux  japonais  (3347) 
Cafe  (3701) 


123  JUILLET. 

LUNCH,  16  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Zeres  et  Accola  (831) 

Bitter        Betteraves  (774) 

Lucines  orange'es  (803) 

Chdblis  Homards  rotis  a  la  broche  (1 040) 

Concombres  a  1'Anglaise  (2661) 

Champagne      Escalopes     de    ris     de     veau 
Cliquot  Sec  Careme  (2284) 

Mais  bouilli  en  tige  (2730) 

Chaudfroid  de  poularde  (2458) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Omelette  soufflee  legere  (3061) 

Gateau  Fleury  (3237) 
Framboises  a  la  creme  (3699) 

Glace  pouding  Diplomate  (3491) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 
Fromage  (3697) 

Cafe  Granit  au  cognac  glace1 
(3609) 


124:  AOUT. 

LUNCH,  12  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Xeres  et  Salade  d'anchois  (772) 

Bitter         Cornichons  (785) 

Timbales  Chevaliere  (963) 

Niesteiner        Crabes  tnoux  grilles  au  beurre 

ravigote  (1006) 
Concombres  marines  (2661) 

Pontet  Canet    Mignons    de     filet    de     boeuf 

Baillard  (1400) 

Creme  de  pommes  de  terre  au 
gratin  (2781) 

Champagne      Ailes  de  poulet  Valerri  (1856) 
Irroy  Brut        Petits  pois  a  la  franeaise  (2743) 

Beaune  Canetons  rotis  (1938) 

Pate    de    foies  gras    decoupe 
(2563) 

Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 
Beignets  de  cerises  (3042) 

Glace  Spongade  Parepa  (3537) 
Liqueurs  Cafe  (3701) 

Claret  cup  Villars  (3712) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


45 


125  SEPTEMBRE. 

LUNCH,  16  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Eperlans  marines  (821) 
Haut  Olives  (800) 

Sauterne 

Consomme  de  volaille  (190) 

Homard  a  la  Camille  (1028) 

Chateau  Noisettes    de    filet    de    breuf 

Couffran  Triumvir  (1419) 

Riz  a  1'Orientale  (2978) 

Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Gallier 

(2466) 
Haricots  verts  sautes  (2829) 

Champagne      Pate  de  cailles  a  la  ge!6e  (2565) 

Salade  de  romaine  (2675) 


Omelette  soufflee  aux  macarons 

(3064) 
Gele"e       tunisienne      rubanee 

(3184) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Compote  (3686) 
Cafe  (3701) 


126  OCTOBRE. 

LUNCH,  14  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

R6ties  Waddington  (826) 
Truffes  a  1'huile  (830) 
Consomme  (189) 

Liebfraumilch  Coquilles  de  queues   d'ecrevis- 

ses  (2341) 

Cotelettes  de  chevreuil  Buridan 

(2170) 

Petits  pois  a  lamenagere  (2744) 

Champagne      Pigeonneaux  frits  sauce  Figaro 
Riunart  (2017) 

Brut          Cepes  a  la  Provengale  (2723) 

Pluviers  grilles,  sauce  Colbert 
(2118) 

Madere  Chaudfroid  de  dinde  a  la  Peri- 

gord  (2462) 
Salade  d'Escarole  (2671) 

Imperial  Gateau  Vacherin   a  la    creme 

(3264) 

Glace   delicieux  aux  noisettes 
(3592) 

Liqueurs  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Cafe  (3701) 


* 

128  DECEMBRE. 

LUNCH,  12  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 

Saumon  fume  (822) 
Tartelettes  de  gibier  (825) 

Sauterne  Huitres  crues  (803) 

Premiere    Consomme  en  tasses  (189) 
Homards  Provencale  (1039) 

St.  Julien         Noisettes  de  filet  de  bceuf  Ber- 
Superieur  thier  (1411) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Terrapene  au  madere  (1090) 

Clicquot  Sec     Perdreaux  grilles  a  1'Anglaise 
(2085) 

Terrine  de  mauviettes  (2599) 
Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 

Omelette  soufflee   a  1'Ancienne 
(3060) 

Flan    de    pommes    Manhattan 

(3034) 
Riz  Mirabeau  (3213) 

Glace      plombiere     d'Alenoon 
(3483) 


127 


NOVEMBRE. 

LUNCH,  18  COUVERTS. 
MENU. 


et 
Bitter 


Piments  doux  d'Espagne  (806) 
Jambon  de  Westphalie  (786) 
Consomme  en  tasses  (189) 
Canapes  Martha  (856) 

Huitres  a  la  Bearnaise  tomatee 
(1052) 

Chateau  Mignons  de  filet  de  boeuf  Dumas 

Lagrange  (1402) 

Pommes    de    terre    fondantes 
(2799) 

Becassines    farcies    Bordelaise 

(2160) 
Tomates  Boquillon  (2833) 

Champagne      Coquilles  de  ris  de  veau  a  la 
Delmonico  Harper  (2357) 

Sorbet  Jeune  Ameriqne  (3530) 
Nuits  Cailles  grillees  (2128) 

Terrine  entiere  de  foies  gras  en 

aspic  (2413) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Glace  soufflee  a  1'Alcazar  (3533) 

Liqueurs  Fruits  (3699) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 
Cafe  (3701) 


Liqueurs 


Fruits  (3699) 
Petits  fours  (3364) 
Cafe  f3701> 


46 


THE 


JANUARY— LUNCH. 


129 

Oysters  a  la  Bearnaise  tomatoed  (1052) 
Escalops  of  fat  livers  with  risot,  Perigueux 

sauce  (2281) 
Eggs  cocottes  (2873) 
Broiled  quails  (2128) 
Eudive  salad  (2671) 
Meringue  flawn  (3174) 
Dessert 


* 

131 

Baked  scallops  on  toast  (1078) 

Loin  pork  pie,  English  style  (2378) 

Broiled  ruddy  duck  (2067) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

Glazed  apple  marmalade  (3125) 

Roasted  chestnuts 

Dessert 


ISO 

Scallops  Brestoise  (1074) 

Surtout  of  chicken  livers  with  mushrooms 

(2367) 

Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 
Broiled  woodcock  (2204) 
Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 
Mocha  cake  (3249) 
Apples 
Dessert 


132 

Baked  oysters  a  la  Crane  (1057) 

Small  patties  with  gravy  (2318) 

Minced  partridge  (2090) 

Potato  croquettes  in  surprise  (2782) 

Broiled  grouse  (2071) 

Babas  with  rum  (3288) 

Malaga  grapes 


133 

Oysters  a  la  Boucicault  (1053) 

Veal  palates,  Epicurean  style  (1540) 

Roasted  stuffed  squabs  (2018) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Banana  crusts  a  la  Panama  (3023) 

Grape  fruit 

Dessert 


135 

Scallops  Havraise  (1075) 

Skewers  of  chicken  livers,  Colbert  sauce  (2222) 

Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Broiled  partridges,  English  style  (2085) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Chateau  framboise"  (3141) 

Pears 


134r 

Scallops  Mariniere  (1076) 
Crepinettes  of  chicken,  Turenne 
Broiled  canvasback  (2054) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 
Fruit  flawn  (3172) 
Florida  oranges 
Dessert 


136 

Curried  oysters,  Indian  style 
Shells  of  chicken  (2345) 
Julienne  potatoes  (2792) 
Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 
Endive  salad  (2671) 
Pineapple 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


47 


FEBRUARY 

137 

Oyster  rissolettes,  Pompadour  (956) 
Beefsteak.     Bordelaise     with     marrow     and 

truffles  (1372) 

Roast  reedbirds  with  cresses  (2152) 
Cauliflower  salad  mayonnaise  (2649) 
Venetian  lemon  custard  pie  (3202) 
Chestnut  Plombiere  (3486) 
Grape  fruit 
Dessert 


-LUNCH. 

138 

Border  of  risot  of  lobsters  (2213) 

Minion  fillets  of  spring  lamb  a  la  Benoist 
(1720) 

Brussels  sprouts  sauted  (2704) 

Broiled  ptarmigans  (2071) 

Cucumber  salad  (2661) 

Rice  souffle  with  maraschino  (3121) 

Roasted  chestnuts 

Dessert 


139 

Lobster  a  la  Bonnefoy  (1026) 
Minced  beef  a  la  Beekman  (1396) 
Baked  cauliflower  with  cheese  (2717) 
Roast  squabs  (2018) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 
Printanier  boats  (cakes)  (3291) 
Apples 
Dessert 


14O 

Fried  soft  clams  (998) 

Lamb  cutlets  with  string  beans  (1693) 

Marrow  squash  with  Parmesan  (2824) 

Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 

Endive  salad  (2671) 

Small  savarin  cakes  (3324) 

Roman  bomb  (3442) 

Bananas 


141 

Anchovy  canapes  (777) 

Lobster,  Paul  Bert  (1038) 

Pork  chops  with  apple  croquettes  (1779) 

Potato  and  beetroot  salad  (2652) 

Broiled  teal  ducks  (2067) 

Jealousy  cakes  (3311) 

Malaga  grapes 

Dessert 


14:2 

Crusts  of  fat  livers  (905) 

Cromesquis  of  beef  tongue  (872) 

Baked  noodles  (2971) 

Broiled  ptarmigan  (2071) 

Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Meringued  omelet  with  fruits  (3069) 

Florida  oranges 

Dessert 


* — 

143 

Oysters  (803) 

Cromesquis  of  striped  bass  (870) 

Broiled  breaded  lamb  cutlets  with  gravy  (1690) 

Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Broiled  redhead  ducks  (2063) 

Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Custard  in  a  dish  (3159) 

Pineapple 

Dessert 


144 

Oysters  (803) 

Scallops  breaded  with  milk  and  fried  (1077 

Veal  cutlets  with  fine  herbs  (1504) 

Roast  tame  duck  (1921) 

Water -cress  salad  (2676) 

Floating  Islands  (eggs)  (3163) 

Syruped  baba  (3227) 

Pomegranates 

Dessert 


48 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


MAECH— LUNCH. 


145 

Scallops  breaded  with  eggs  and  fried  (1077) 

Veal  pie  a  la  Dickens  (2380) 

Artichoke  bottoms,  Villars  (2682) 

Broiled  duckling  (1938) 

Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Rice  souffle"  with  maraschino  (3121) 

Pineapple 

* 


146 

Small  lobster,  Bordelaise  (1025) 

Fricassee  of  turkey  wings  baked  (2038) 

Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

Broiled  reedbirds  (2151) 

Endive  salad  (2668) 

Meringued  apples,  Nubian  (2996) 

Malaga  grapes 


147 

Stuffed  oysters,  Mornay  (1069) 

Terrapin,  ancient  style  (1087) 

Artichokes,  Rachel  (2690) 

Broiled  chicken  with  tarragon  sauce  (1831) 

Small  orange  souffles  in  cases  (3120) 

Milk  punch  iced  (3511) 

Bananas 


148 

Lobster  with  cream  (1044) 

Squabs  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (2018) 
Eggplant  a  la  Robertson  (2737) 
Small  aspics  of  foies  gras  (2412) 
Apple  flawn,  latticed  (3169) 
Strawberries 
Dessert 


149 

Consomme  in  cups  (189) 

Stuffed  small  lobster  tails  (1043) 

Terrapin,  Newberg  (1086) 

Small  "  pains"  of  chicken  a  1'Ecarlate  (2543) 

Meringued  omelet  with  fruits  (3069) 

Grape  fruit 

Dessert 


15O 

Oysters  with  Parmesan  (1073) 
Pork  cutlets  with  apples  (1777) 
Mushrooms  sauted  with  butter  (2760) 

Roast  English    pheasants  adorned    with 
their  own  plumage  (2107) 

Eggs  with  coffee  cream  meringued  (3033) 

Florida  oranges 

Dessert 


151 

Oysters  a  la  Rubino  (1055) 
Chicken  croquettes,  Exquisite  (877) 
Asparagus,  vinaigrette  (2692) 
Roast  thrushes  (2166) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 
Custard  in  a  dish  (3159) 


152 

Lobster  a  la  Hervey  (1034) 

Terrapin  a  la  Crisfleld  (1084) 

Italian  salad  (2635) 

Crepinettes   of   pigeons,   poivrade   sauce 

with  truffle  essence  (No.  2246) 
Madeira  crusts  (3026) 
Bavarois  with  meringues  (3133) 
Pears 


BILLS    OF 


49 


153 

Caviare  (778) 

boallops  a  la  Brestoise  (1074) 

Grenadins  of  beef  with  sweet  peppers  (1394) 

Noodles  with  fried  bread-crumbs  (2973) 

Broiled  squabs,  Colbert  sauce  (2013) 

Stuffed  eggs  (sweet)  (3031) 

Grape  fruit 

Dessert 


APRIL— LUNCH. 

154r 

Oysters  on  the  deep  shell  (803) 
Lobster  a  la  Rougemont  (1041) 
Vienna  Schnitzel,  German  style  (1512) 
Green  peas  with  braised  lettuces  (2746) 
Timbales  of  chicken,  Parisian  style  (2382) 
Souffle's  in  cases  with  vanilla  (3120) 
Oranges 
Dessert 


155 

Crusts  a  la  Genoise  (904) 

Deviled  lobster  (1043) 
Lamb  steak,  maitre-d'hotel  (1713) 
Baked  tomatoes  (2837) 
Chaudfroid  of  larks  (2454) 
Floating  island  (3163) 
Hot-house  grapes 


156 

Radishes  (808) 

Fresh  butter  (775) 

Croustades  of  lamb's  sweetbreads  (2251) 

Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 

Potatoes  in  surprise  (2809) 

Cake  stuffed  with  apricots  (3325) 

Cream  cakes  iced  with  vanilla  (3294) 

Bananas 


157 

Oysters  on  crusts  (1062) 

Escalops  of  beef  palates,  chestnut  pure"e  (2277) 

Croustades  of  chicken    livers  with  Madeira 

(2250) 

Tomatoes  a  la  Tr6vise  (2836) 
Squabs  Crapaudine  (2007) 
Cream  pie  (3201) 
Apples 


* 

159 

Pickled  oysters  (802) 

Lobster  tails  a  la  Stanley  (1042) 

King's  pilau  of  lamb  (1709) 

Fried  frog's  legs,  cream  sauce  (1022) 

Hot  pie,  Bontoux  style  (2314) 

Genoese  cake  (3307) 

Strawberries 


158 

Julienne  soup,  Faubonne  (318) 

Quenelles  of  turkey,  Providence  (2336) 
Minion  fillets  of  lamb,  Landgrave  (1721) 
Artichoke  bottoms,  Florence  (2677) 
Larks  a  la  Mardchale  (2081) 
Meringued  pancakes,  Rossini  (3073) 
Pineapple 

_ — * 


160 

Oysters  and  lemons  (803) 

Cream  of  peas  a  la  St.  Germain  (260) 

Breast  of  lamb,  chopped  sauce  (1663) 

Cromesquis  of  beef  tongue  (872) 

Boudinsof  chicken.  Soubise  (2215) 

Baked  apples  (2992) 

Graoe  fruit 


50 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


161 

Clam  pancakes  or  fritters  (996) 

Small  patties,  Mazarin  (944) 

Epigrammes  of  lamb  a  la  Toulouse  (1694) 

Broiled  squabs  (2013) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Surprise  of  fruits,  frothy  sauce  (3219) 

Apples 


MAY— LUNCH. 

162 

Colombines  of  chicken  liver  with  ham  (865) 
Deviled  frog's  legs  (1020) 
Patties  a  1'Andalouse  (934) 
Slices  of  lamb,  Previllot  (1711) 
Broiled  ptarmigans  (2071) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 
Almondine  tartlets  (3326) 
Hot-house  grapes 


163 

Quenelles  of  fish,  Montglas  (2330) 

Sweetbread  croquettes  (893) 
Roast  tame  duck  (1921) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 
Cream  macaroons  in  cases  (3383) 
Spanish  oranges 


Boudins  of  pickerel  a  la  "Walton  (844) 

Benoiton  shells  (2339) 

Sweetbreads  in  papers  (1573) 

Broiled  chicken  with  tarragon  sauce  (1831) 

Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Apricots  with  cream  of  almonds  (3287) 

Bananas 


165 

Lobster,  Monte  Carlo  (1036) 

Palmettes  of  ham  a  1'Aquitaine  (927) 
Chaudfroid  of  chicken,  Clara  Morris  (2451) 
Ptarmigans  (2071) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 
Crescents  with  preserves  (3298) 
Hot-house  peaches 


166 


Brissotins  of  chicken,  supreme  sauce  (849) 

Sweetbreads  on  skewers  (2226) 

Parisian  green  peas  (2745) 

Roast  duck  (1921) 

Endive  salad  (2671) 

Apple  croquettes,  Trimalcion  (3016) 

Pineapple 


167 

Crusts  a  la  d'Henin  (904) 
Celestines  with  foies-gras  and  pure*e  of  chest- 
nuts (862) 

Squab  cutlets,  Perigueux  (2267) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 
Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef,  Stanley  (1406) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799") 
Lady  bouchees  with  strawberries  (3376) 


168 

Lobster  a  la  Fresne  (1032) 

Junot  palmettes  (921) 

Minion  fillets  of  lamb  in  surprise  (1725) 

String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Strawberry  short  cake  (3262) 

Biscuits  in  cases  with  cream  (3289) 

Pears 


BILLS  OF  FARE:. 


51 


169 

Lobster  a  la  Delmonico  (1037) 

Timbales  Mentana  (974) 

Mutton  cutlets  with  chicory  (1602) 

Artichoke  bottoms,  Montglas  (2679) 

Croquettes  of  capon  a  la  Royal  (876) 

Coffee  cream  eclairs  (3303) 

Cherries 


JUNE— LUNCH. 

17O 

Lobster,  Paul  Bert  (1038) 

Varsovian  palmettes  (924) 
Breast  of  beef  a  la  Florence  (1314) 
Stuffed  tomatoes  baked  (2837) 
Asparagus,  Hollandaise  sauce  (2692) 
Bordelalse  tartlets  (3328) 
Hot-house  grapes 


171 

Clam  chowder  (300) 

Shells  of  calf's  brains  (2355) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef,  Berthier  (1411) 

Broiled  duckling  (1938) 

Macedoine  salad  (2650) 

Strawberries  and  cream 

Peaches 


172 

Soft  shell  crabs,  sauted  in  butter  (1006) 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Durand  (1674) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 
Italian  salad  (2635) 

Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 
Rice  border  with  bananas  (3005) 
Grape  fruit 


173 

Frog's  legs  fried  with  cream  sauce  (1022) 

Small  puff  paste  salmon  patties  (945) 
Minion  fillets  of  lamb,  Lefort  (1722) 
Roast  squabs  (2018) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 
Goronflot  cakes  (3310) 
Bananas 


174, 

Cromesquis  of  mussels  (873) 

Soft  crabs,  sauted  (1006) 

Tournedos  of  beef  a  la  Hutching  (1433) 

Chicken  roasted  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Strawberry  ice  cream  (3451) 

Pineapple 


175 

Bressoles  of  fat  livers  (848) 

Shells  of  squabs,  baked  (2356) 

Broiled  partridges,  English  style  (2085) 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  fresh  mushrooms  (2842) 

Aspics  of  foies  gras  (2411) 

Strawberry  short  cake  (3262) 

Raspberries 


176 

Clams,  Philadelphia  style  (994) 

Cassolettes,  Lusigny  (860) 

Small"  pains"  of  chicken  arEcarlate(2543) 

Ducklings,  Rouennaise  (1937) 

Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Meringued  croustacles  of  Venice  (3020) 

Strawberries 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Squab  cutlets,  Perigueux  (2267) 

Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Lamb  minion  fillet  pie  a  la  Manning  (2373) 

Small  vanilla  souffles  in  cases  (3130) 

Cream  cheese  (3698) 


JULY— LUNCH. 

178 
j. 

Pickled  alligator  pears  (771) 

Soft  clams  on  skewers  (999) 

Noisettes  of  plain  tenderloin  of  beef  (1410] 

String  beans,  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Roasted  reedbirds  (2152) 

Cream  cakes  iced  with  chocolate  (3294) 

Apricots 


179 

Little  Neck  clams  a  la  poulette  (995) 

Sweetbread  patties,  French  style  (940) 
Grenadins  of  beef  as  venison  (1388) 
Frog's  lefts  fried  a  la  Horly  (1021) 
Savarin  with  apricots  (3117) 
Marly  cake  (3246) 
Blackberries 


180 

Frog's  legs  a  la  Osborn  (1018) 
Soft  shell  crabs  sauted  in  butter  (1006) 
Chicken  cutlets  a  la  Clarence  (2258) 
Corn  cut  up  (2731) 

Potted  tenderloin    of    beef  a  la  Nelson 

(2320) 

Turkish  coffee  (3702) 
Cherries 


181 

Lobster  tart  a  la  Herault  (2374) 
Cases  of  squabs,  Umberto  (2234) 
Boiled  corn  on  the  cob  (2730) 

Small  roasted  spring  chickens  as   an  entree 

(1908) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 
Surprise  of  fruits  (3219) 
Gooseberries 


182 

Croustades  of  gnocquis,  Rivoli  (899) 

Border  of  risot  of  lobster  (2213) 

Pigeon  tart  a  la  Britannia  (2377) 

Broiled  duckling  (1938) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

Iced  banana  pudding  (3487) 

Currants 


183 

Stuffed  clams  (997) 

Frog's  legs  a  la  d'Antin  (1017) 

Sweetbreads    larded  and  glazed   with  gravy 
(1575) 

Surtout  of  wild  pigeons  (2368) 
Timbale  a  la  Nantaise  (2381) 
Molded  snow  eggs  (3164) 
Bananas 


184r 

Olives  stuffed  with  anchovies  (801) 
Lobster  brochettes  (2224) 
Cases  of  sweetbreads,  Grammont  (2235) 
Broiled    chickens    with    tarragon    sauce 

(1831) 

Small  Quillet  cakes  (3397) 
Musk  melon 
Cheese 


BILLS  OF  FARE:. 


53 


185 

Lobster,  American  style  (1024) 


Pigeons  braised  with  green  peas  (1969) 
Timbales  of  sweetbreads,  modern  (2388) 
Cream  cakes  iced  with  coffee  (3294) 
Raspberry  water-ice  (3607) 
Peaches. 


AUGUST— LUNCH. 

186 

Kulibiac,  Russian  style  (908) 

Lobster  a  la  Lawrence  (1035) 
Beef  pie  a  la  Perez  (2369) 
Shells  of  mussels  (2349) 
Raspberry  souffle  (3122) 
Cheese 


— * 

188 

Lobster  a  la  Canaille  (1028) 

Escalops  of  veal  a  la  Arnold  (2285) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 
Timbale  for  epicures  (2383) 

Peach    marmalade    pancakes  macedoine 

(3075) 
Pears 


187 

Frog's  legs  a    la  poulette  with  mushrooms 

(1019) 

Pilau  of  chicken  (1878) 

Lobster  a  la  Gambetta  (1033) 

Tournedos  of  fillet  of  beef,  Bretigny  (1431) 

Savarin  a  la  Valence  (3259) 

Cheese 


189 

"  Pain  "  of  pike  (2307) 

Lobster,  mayonnaise  (2534) 

Squabs,  Stanislas  (2011; 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Noisettes  of  shoulder  of  lamb,  Epicurean  (1730) 

Parfait  with  nougat  and  with  almonds  (3478) 

Plums 


19O 

Cromesquis  of  beef  palate  (867) 

Fried  sweatbreads,  Neapolitan  style  (1562) 
Shells  of  frog's  legs  (2347) 
Japanese  salad  (2636) 
Cannelons  a  la  Celestine  (3292) 
Cheese 


191 

Oysters  with  fine  herbs  (1072) 

Lobster  a  la  Britannia  (1027) 
Fried  chicken,  Medicis  (1870) 
Small  vol-au-vent,  Delmontes  (2403) 
Cream  cakes  with  St.  Honore  cream  (3296) 
Apricots 


192 

Shells  filled  with  crawfish  tails  (2341) 

Beef  palate  tourte,  Parisian  style  (2390) 

Squabs  sauted  a  I'lmpromptu  (2010) 

Sarah  potatoes  (2802) 

Sweetbread   fritters,  cream  sauce  (1572) 

Water  melon  on  ice 

Raspberries. 


54 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


193 

Alligator  pears  (771) 


SEPTEMBER— LUNCH. 

194r 


Boudins  of  game,  Berchoux  (2218) 

Oysters  a  la  Rubino  (1055) 

Epigrammes  of  mutton  a  la  Jardiniere  (1607) 

Timbale  of  pullet  (2386) 

Iced  souffles,  Favart  (3534) 


Oysters  in  cases  a  la  Hilton  (2231) 
Patties  with  Regence  salpicon  (943) 
Sirloin  steak  for  gourmets  (1378) 

Squabs  roasted  in  earthenware  saucepan 
(2018) 

Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Bellini  (3467) 
Apples 


195 

Shrimp  patties  (935) 

Tournedos  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Roque- 
plan  (1436) 

Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 
Broiled  partridges,  Colbert  sauce  (2099) 
Francillon  cakes  (3305) 
Oheese 


196 

Oysters  with  fine  herbs  (1072) 

Cromesquis    of    sweetbreads,    Babanine 

(872) 

Broiled  eggplant,  Duperret  (2735) 
Breasts  of  grouse  a  la  Czarina  (207?) 
Marillan  cakes  (3317) 
Bananas 


197 

Cromesquis  of  game,  Stanislas  (871) 

Shells  of  shrimps  with  oyster  crabs  (2342) 
Chateaubriand,  with  souffled  potatoes  (1883) 
Iced  pudding,  Constance  (3490) 
Cocoanut 


198 

Fried  soft  clams  with  parsley  (998) 

Blanquette    of   pullet  with    mushrooms 
(1997) 

Slices  of  kernel  of  venison  a  la  Hussard 
(2181) 

Small  aspics  of  foies-gras  (2412) 
De"monet  tartlets  (3331) 
Cheese 


199 

Consomme"  (189) 

Lobster  a  la  Dugle"re"  (1031) 

Timbale  of  squabs  a  la  Berchoux  (2387) 

Lamb  cutlets,  Murillo  (1681) 

Cream  with  apples  (3014) 

Cheese. 


20O 

Strained  okra  soup  (299) 

Baked  oysters  a  la  Crane  (1057) 
Cromesquis  of  beef  tongue  (872) 
Chickens  Ecarlateala  Derenne  (2463} 
Apples,  Baron  de  Brisse  style  (2993) 
Concord  grapes 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


55 


201 

Crawfish  tails  in  shells  (2341) 


OCTOBER— LUNCH. 
2O2 

Stuffed  oysters,  Mornay  (1069) 


Chicken  fricassee  (1861) 

Venison  cutlets,  tomato  Parisian  sauce  (2174) 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  fresh  mushrooms  (2842) 

Conde  peaches  (3081) 

Watermelon 


* 

203 

Shells  of  oysters  in  their  natural  shells  (2351) 

Mutton  cutlets  with  marinade  (1604) 

String  bean  salad  (2657) 

Chicken  pie,  Australian  style  (2372) 

Alliance  fritters  (3036) 

Barberries 


Crusts  of  woodcock  (906) 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Florence  (2677) 

Cream  of  lobster  (2470) 

Jelly  cake  meringued  (3243) 

Cheese 


204, 

Oysters  in  cases  a  la  Lorenzo  (2232) 

Venison  cutlets  with  chestnut  puree  (2175) 
Souffle  of  chicken  a  la  Delsart  (2360) 
Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 
Frascati  biscuits  (3004) 
Muskmelon 

* 


205 

Brissotins  of  game,  Lyonnese  (850) 

Lobster  a  la  Ravigote  (2531) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  with  pure'e  of 

mushrooms  (1420) 

Peach  ice  cream  a  la  Herbster  (3453) 
Huckleberries 


206 

Shells  of  oysters  with  fried  bread  (2353) 

Salmis  of  partridge  cold  (2574) 
Croustade  a  la  Perigueux  (897) 
Italian  salad  (2635) 
Roasted  woodcocks  (2206) 
Scuffled  omelet  with  vanilla  (3066) 
Cheese 


207 

Fried  soft  clams  (998) 

Patties  with  puree  of  game  (936) 
Shells  of  terrapin  with  hazel-nuts  (2358) 
Broiled  snipe  (2157) 
Frothy  puree  of  apples  (3127) 
Spanish  oranges 


208 

Shells  of  oysters  baked  in  their   shells 
(2350) 

Epigrammes  of  lamb,  ancient  style  (1695) 

Timbales  of  pullet  (2386) 

Plain  Delmonico  sii'loin  steak  (1375) 

Lamb's  lettuce  salad  (2669) 

Preserved  quinces  (3685) 


56 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


209 

Steamed  oysters  (1064) 

Lobster  &  la  Creole  (1029) 

Rib  steak  a  la  Bercy  (1364) 

Galantine  of  pheasant,  sliced  (2495) 

Roast  chicken    garnished  with  water-cresses 

(1881). 

Rice  border  with  bananas  (3005) 
Dessert 


NOVEMBER— LUNCH. 

21O 

Venison  cutlets  a  la  Cauchoise  (2171) 
Croustades  of  reedbirds  (2252) 
Terrapin,  Maryland  Club  (1088) 
Redhead  duck  roasted  (2063) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Nesselrode   pudding  with  candied  chest- 
nuts (3495) 
Dessert 


211 

Oysters  in  shells  roasted  (2352) 

Croustades  a  la  Perigueux  (897) 
Rabbit  pie  with  fine  herbs  (2379) 
Roasted  teal  ducks  (2068) 
Peaches  a  la  Stevens  (3084) 
Dessert 


213 

Scallops,  Horly  (1077) 

Croustades  a  la  Morgan  (902) 
Veal  cutlets,  half  glaze  (1499) 
Celery  knob  salad  (2660) 
Roasted  ruddy  ducks  (2066) 
Genoese  Madeleines  (3314) 
Roast  chestnuts 


212 

Oyster  brochettes  (2225) 

Cromesquis  of  capon  (868) 

Breast  of  veal  a  la  Mondoux  (1488) 

Young  rabbit  fillets,  currant  sauce  (2145) 

Terrapin  a  la  Philadelphia  (1085) 

Cream  of  almond  rissoles  (3116) 

Bananas 


Shells  of  scallops,  Parisian  style  (2354) 
Crepine  of  young  rabbit  (2249) 
Sweetbreads  larded  and  glazed  with  gravy 

(1575) 

Quenelles  of  turkey  a  la  Providenee  (2336) 
Roasted  wookcock  (2206) 
Cream  cakes  with  burnt  almonds  (3295) 
Pomegranates 


215 

White  cabbage,  English  style  (776) 
Cromesquis  a  la  Rumford  (869) 
Shells  of  terrapin  with  hazel-nuts  (2358) 
Small    vol-au-vent    of    reedbirds,    Diplomate 

(2407) 

Broiled  young  wild  rabbit  backs  (2149) 
Tutti-frutti  ice  cream  (3586) 
Stewed  quinces 


216 

Marinated  Gurnet  (831) 

Patties  a  la  Reine  (938) 

Small  sirloin  a  la  Bearnaise  (1369) 

Frog's  legs  a  la  Royer  (1023) 

Broiled  teal  duck  (2067) 

Guanabana  water-ice  (3603) 

Cheese 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


217 

Curried  oysters,  Indian  style  (1071) 

Lobster  cutlets  a  la  Shelley  (2261) 
Baked  macaroni  (2959) 
Cold  quail  pie  (2565) 
Asparagus  salad  (2621) 
Croquettes  a  la  Trimalcion  (3016) 
Cocoanut 


DECEMBER— LUNCH. 

218 

"  Pain  "  of  crawfish,  Chartreuse  (2305) 

Terrapin  a  la  Crisfield  (1084) 
Timbale  of  young  hare  (2389) 
Tenderloin  of  beef  with  olives  (1428) 
Chestnut  and  vanilla  souffle  (3118) 
Cheese 


* 

22O 

Stuffed  hard  shell  crabs  (1004) 

Terrapin  cutlets  with  cream  sauce  (1089) 

Turkey  legs  with  Milanese  noodles  (2036) 

Broiled  quails  (2128) 

Cakes  filled  with  apricot  marmalade  (3325) 

Bananas 


219 

Oyster  crab  patties  (935) 

Minion  fillets  of  lamb  as  venison  (1723) 
Lobster  with  mayonnaise  (2534) 
Loin  of  pork  pie,  English  style  (2378) 
Jelly  rolled  biscuit  (3312) 
Cheese 


221 

Small  vol-au-vent  a  la  Lucini  (2404) 

Veal  cutlets  a  la  Georgina  (1496) 
Terrapin  stew  with  Madeira  wine  (1090) 
Apple  Charlotte  (3008) 
Crumbled  paste  cakes  (3345) 
Apples 


Turban  of  lobsters  garnished  with  shells 

of  lobster  (2394) 

Marinated  pork  tenderloin  (1815) 
Vol-au-vent,  Parisian  style  (2406) 
Terrapin,  Maryland  Club  (1088) 
Lady's  bouchees  with  strawberries  (3376) 
Cheese 


Fresh  mushroom  patties  (937) 
Cases  of  lobster,  Ravigote  (2447) 
Baked  stuffed  egg-plant  (2738) 
Gibelotte  of  rabbits  (2147) 
Cannelons  a  la  Celestine  (3292) 
Grape  fruit 


Kulibiac  Smolenska  (909) 
Lobster  cutlets  a  la  Lowery  (2476) 
Chicken  pie  a  la  Manhattan  (2370) 
Sweetbreads  a  la  Montebello  (1560) 
Africans  fancy  cakes  (3364) 
Pomegranates 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


225  JANUARY. 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Meissonier  (324) 

Remove 

Sheepshead  a  la  Bechamel  (1257) 

Dauphiue  potatoes  (2783) 

Entrees 

Rack  of  pork,  crown  shape,  with  small  onions 

(1798) 
Stuffed  mushrooms  in  cases  with  Madeira  (2762) 

Pullet  a  la  Dame  Blanche  (1972) 
Green  peas  with   braised  lettuces   (2746) 

Roast. 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot  Entremets 
Brioche  and  cream  fritters  with  sabayon  (3040) 

Bananas  in  surprise  (3541) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Nuts  and  raisins  (3699) 

Dessert 


226  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS: 
MENU. 

Soup 
Mutton  a  la  Cowley  (329ji 

Remove 

Fresh  codfish  a  la  Duxelle— baked  (1136) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Corned  breast  of  beef,  English  style  (1315) 
Sweet  potato  croquettes  (2831) 

Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Waleski  (1866) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Roast 

Mallard  duck  (2059) 
Cos-lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Flawn  au  lion  d'or  (3035) 

Plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau  ice  cream  (3482) 
Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 


227  JANUARY. 

DINNER  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  Channel  (224) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  of  partridges  a  la  Waddington  (955) 

Fish 

Chicken  halibut  baked  with  parmesan  (1172) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Braised  middle  short  loin  a  la  Messinoise  (1347) 
Cardoons  with  half-glaze  (2710) 

Entrees 
Fillets  of  chicken  a  la  Bodisco  (1835) 

Green  peas  Parisian  (2745) 

Salmis  of  canvasback  ducks  (2056) 

Fried  eggplant  (2739) 

Beatrice  Punch  (3502) 

Roast 

Quail  (2131) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot    Entremets 
Countess  pudding  (3097) 

Palmyra  souffle  ice  cream  (3535) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Black  coffee  (3701) 

Raw  oysters  or  clams  (803)  may 


JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  Celestine  (223) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes  of  pheasant  a  la  Torrens  (929) 

Fish 

Red  snapper  a  la  Mobile  (1235) 
Broiled  potatoes  with  fried  bread  (2776) 

Remove 
Aitch  bone  boiled,  cream  horseradish    sauce 

(1317) 
Villeroi  celeriac  (2722) 

Entrees 

Chicken  a  F  Hoteliere  (1880) 

Fried  stuffed  lettuce  (2752) 

Breasts  of  woodcock  a  la  Diane  (2200) 

Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

American  sherbet  (3521) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Endive  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Stuffed  pears  a  la  Lombarde  (3086) 

Plombiere  a  la  Richmond  ice  cream  (3481) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 
*  Dessert 

be  added  to  these  bills  of  tare. 


BIJL.LS    OF    FARE. 


59 


229  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bennett  (287) 

Remove 

Smelts,  Diplomatic  (1268) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entrees 
Braised  chicken  with  rice  (1914) 

Noisettes  of  beef  a  la  Berthier  (1411) 
Brussels  sprouts  a  la  Baroness  (2703) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 

Pineapple  crusts,  apricot  sauce  (3022) 
Iced  biscuits  a  la  d'Orleans  (3437) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 

Dessert 


* 

231  JANUARY 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Remusat  (240) 

Side  Dish 
Chicken  croquettes,  Hungarian  (878) 

Fish 

Soles  a  la  Lutece  (1272) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 
Ham  braised  with  stuffed  tomatoes  (1790) 

Entrees 

Slices  of  mutton  fillet  a  la  Alexandra  (1608) 

Cauliflower  a  la  Villeroi  (2716) 

Quails  with  mushrooms  (2134) 

Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Californian  sherbet  (3523) 


230  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Chicken  okra  (299) 

Remove 

Fresh  codfish  slices  with  Hollandaise  sauce 

(1140) 
Boiled  potatoes.  English  style  (2774) 

Entrees 
Sheep's  tongue  ecarlate  with  spinach  (1657) 

Sauted  chicken  a  la  Tunisienne  (1901) 
Fried  oyster  plant  (2817) 

Roast 

Ruddy  duck  (2066) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples,  Baron  de  Brisse  style  (2993) 

Orange  water-ice  (3605) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Coffee  (3701)  Cognac 

Dessert 


Roast 
Capon  (1826) 


Salad 


Hot  Entremets 
Alliance  fritters  (3036) 

Favart  souffle  ice  cream  (3534) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Nuts  and  raisins  (3699) 

Stewed  bananas  (3687) 

Dessert 
Raw  oysters  or  clams  (803)  may 


232  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crabs  a  la  Stevens  (199) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  Chevaliere  (963) 

Fish 

English  turbot  with  caper  sauce  (1307) 
Potato  croquettes  in  surprise  (2782) 

Remove 
Saddle  of  mutton  roasted  on  the  spit  (1648) 

Entrees 

Chicken,  Vienna  style  sauted  (1905) 

String  beans  with  butter  (2829) 

Partridges  a  la  Chartreuse  (2094) 

Gnocquis  (2955) 

Kirsch  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Mallard  duck  (2059) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Creamy  souffle  with  cheese  (2982) 

Spongade  a  la  Medicis  (3536) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

•  Coffee  (3701)     Liquors 

be  added  to  these  bills  of  fare. 


60 


TT1E    EPICUREAN. 


233  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Fermiere  style  (307) 

Remove 

Hot  eel  pie  (2315) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Entries 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Lucullus  (1846) 
Artichoke  (bottoms)  with  marrow  (2687) 

Pilau  of  mutton,  French  style  (1641) 
Chicory  with  cream  (2729) 

Roast 

Grouse  with  apple  sauce  (2072) 
,  Escarole  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Singapoi-e  pineapple  fritters  (3046) 

Ice  ci'eam  with  walnuts  (3464) 

Fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Salted  almonds  (3696) 

Dessert 


* 

235  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Sotip 
Consomme  a  la  Dubarry  (229) 

Side  Dish 
Pheasant  croquettes  (891) 

Fish 

Sheepshead  a  la  Buena  Vista  (1259) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 

Goose    stuffed   with  sausages  and  chestnuts 
(1950) 

Entrees 

Veal  cutlets,  Milanese  (1502) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Woodcocks  a  la  Cavour  (2198) 
Artichoke  (bottoms)  Jusienne  (2678) 

Pargny  punch  (3514) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Creole  fruits  (3051) 

Coffee  mousse  ice  ci-eam  (3473) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 

Dessert 

Raw  oysters  or  clams  may 


JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Jerome  with  sweet  potato  quenelles  (317) 

Remove 

Baked  stuffed  perch  (1210) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Sweetbreads  a  1'Eugenie  (1556) 
String  beans  a  TAlbani  (2825) 

Woodcock  pudding  (2325) 
Ballotines  of  stuffed  cabbage  (2705) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  in  surprise  (2995) 

Maraschino  ice  cream  (3462) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


236  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  carrots  a  la  Crecy  (268) 

Side  Dish 
Neapolitan  timbales  (977) 

Fish 

Fresh  codfish  a  la  Norwegian  (1137) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 
Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  d'Aurelles  (1449) 

Entrees 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Mirabeau  (1849) 
Stuffed  cauliflower  a  la  Bechamel  (2715) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Conti  (1554) 
•  Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Californian  sherbet  (3523) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  with  samp  (2055) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Franklyn  pudding  (3098) 

Ice  cream  mousse  with  maraschino  (3476) 

Nuts  and  raisins  (3699) 
4*  Dessert 

be  added  to  these  bills  of  fare. 


BIJLLS    OF    FARE,. 


61 


237  JANUARY. 

DINNER  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Garbure  with  lettuce  (310) 

Remove 

Spotted  fish,  Queen  sauce  (1285) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Entrees 

Tenderloin  steak  with  Madeira  (1425) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Provengal  (2835) 

California   quails  a   la  Monterey   (2136) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast 
Wild  turkey,  American  style  (2028) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  with  butter  (2999) 

Chocolate  ice  cream  (3449) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Stewed  fruits     (3686) 

Dessert 


JANUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Grammont  (234) 

Remove 

Whitefish,  Gherardi  (1811) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Entrees 

Minions  of  beef  tenderloin  a  la  Salvini  (1405) 
Spinach  a  la  Rougemont  (2822) 

Sweetbread  cutlets,  modern  style  (2271) 
Macedoine  a  la  Montigny  (2755) 

Roast 
Pullet  with  water-cress  (1996) 

Hot  Entremets 
Pineapple  Carolina  (3090) 

Lemon  water-ice  (3604) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Coffee  (3701) 


239  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS 
MENU. 

/Soup 
Chamberlain   (295) 

Side  Dish 
Godiveau  and  chives,  puff  paste  patties  (944) 

FisJi 

Sole,  Venetian  style  (1278) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 
Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Dauphiness  (1350) 

Entrees 

Breasts  of  partridges  a  la  Jules  Verne  (2087) 
Artichoke    (bottoms)    with    cream    bechamel 

(2686) 
Sweetbreads  larded  and  glazed  with  gravv 

(1575) 
French  green  peas  (2743) 

Brandy  punch  (3510) 

Roast 
Capon  (1826) 

Hot  Entremets 
Pudding  a  la  de  Freese  (3099) 

Excelsior  biscuit  ice  cream  (3436) 
Fruits  (3699) 
Dessert 
flaw  oysters  or  clams  may 


24rO  JANUARY. 

DINNER,  16   TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Daumont  (228) 

Side  Dish 
Cannelons  of  puree  of  game  (859) 

Fish 

Haddock,  Holland  style  (1165) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 
Mongrel  goose  a  la  Royer  (1946) 

Entrees 

Mutton  cutlets  with  cucumbers  (1603) 
Stuffed  tomatoes  with  mushrooms  (2842) 

"Woodcock  salmis  a  la  Sandford  (2208) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Punch  Dolgorouski  (3506) 

Roast 
Teal  ducks  (2068) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peach  fritters  with  maraschino  (3039) 

Spongade  ice  cream  a  la  Parepa  (3537) 
Stewed  fruits  (3686) 

Dessert 
be  added  to  these  bills  of  fare. 


62  THE    EPICUREAN. 

JANVIER.  24:1 

DINER,  14  COUVERTS— A  L'AMERICAINE. 

MENU. 
ffaut  Sauterne  Huitres  (803) 

Sherry  POTAGES. 

Consomme"  a  la  Laguipierre  (236)        Creme  do  Celeri  a  la  Livingstone  (252) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE    CHAUDS. 

Bouchees  de  salpicon  de  foies-gras  (943) 

Marcobrunner  POISSONS. 

Sheepshead  a  la  sauce  Cardinal  (1261)        Blanchaille  frite  a  la  diable  (1310) 

Pommery  Sec  RELEVE. 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Bernardi  (1444) 

Pontet-Canet  ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Marceau  (1847)  Petits  pates  de  cailles  (2311) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742)  Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  Mornay  (2680) 

Souffle  de  becasses  aux  truffes  (2366) 
Sorbet  Andalouse  (3322) 

Corton  ROTS. 

Canard  a  tete  rouge  (2063)  Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 

ENTREMETS   DE   DOUCEUR. 

Munich  aux  peches  (chaud)  (3055) 

Gelee  aux  ananas  Californienne  (3178)          Creme  bain-marie  au  cafe  (3162) 

Glace  Parfait  nougat  (3478) 
Old  Port  Dessert 


JANVIER.  24=2 

DINER,  60  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE. 

MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  a  Tlmperatrice  (231)         Tortue  verte  au  clair  (353) 
HORS-D'CEUVRE  FROIDS. 

Salade  d'anchois  (772)  Olives  Espagnoles  farcies  (801)  Sardines  a  l'huile(831) 

Thon  marine  (831) 

POISSONS. 

Darne  de  saumon  a  la  Duperre  (1240)  Pompano  a  la  Soya  (1226) 

RELEVES. 
Chapon  a  la  Re"gence  (1825)  Selle  d'agneau  braisee  a  la  puree  de  navets  (1745^ 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  veau  Pogarski  (2273)  Paupiettes  de  dindonneau  au  souvenir  (2045) 

Canards  Mallart  au  Madere  (2061)  Vol-au-vent  de  poulet  aux  champignons  (2399) 

ROTS. 

Faisans  rotis  aux  truffes  (21 10)  Buisson  d'ecrevisses  (2572) 

RELEVES. 

Rissolettes  a  la  Solferino  (958) 

ENTREMETS. 

Asperges  sauce  mousseline  (2692)  Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise  (2743) 

Gelee  aux  fruits  (3187)  Creme  tutti  frutti  (3153) 

Petites  caisses  de  homards  a  la  ravigote  (2447)        Grosses  truffes  en  serviettes  (2843) 

RELEVES. 

Hure  de  sanglier  en  surprise  garnie  d'Africains  (3255)  Fondue  aux  truffes  du  Piemont  (2954) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  63 

JANVIER.  24r3 

DINER,  60  COUVEETS— SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSE. 

MENU. 
Servi  par  six,  dix  sur  chaque  plat. 

BUFFET  SEPARE. 

Vermuth,  Absinthe,     Canapes  de  crevettes  (777)  Salade  d'auchois  (772) 

Kilmmel,  Sherry         Gelee  de  canneberges  (598)  Rhubarbe  a  la  creme  (3204) 

Thon  marine  (831)  Radis  (808) 

Olives  (800)  Caviar  (778) 

Chablis  60  plats  d'huitres  sur  coquilles  (803) 

POT  AGES   (3  SOUPIERES). 

Amontillado        Consomme  Colbert  aux  oeufs  poches(225)          Bisque  de  homard  (205) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  (3  PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 
Timbales  a  la  Talleyrand  (988)  Palmettes  a  la  Perrier  (922) 

POISSONS   (3   PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 

Fletan  a  la  Coligny  (1168)  Filets  de  soles,  Rochelaise  (1276) 

RELEVES   (3  PLATS  DE    CHAQUE). 

Dinde  a  la  Franchise  (2029)  Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Chanceliere  (1739) 

ENTREES  (3  PLATS   DE   CHAQUE). 

Filets  de  volaille  a  la  Certosa  (1836)    Cotelettes  de  tetras  a  la  Segard  (2259) 
Homard  a  la  Rougemont  (1041)  Chaudfroid  de  cailles  a  la  Baudy  (2459) 

ROTS   (3   PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 

Perdreaux  truffes  (2100)  Poularde  au  cresson  (1996) 

LEGUMES  (3  PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 

Celeri  a  la  moelle  (2721)  Petits  pois  fins  a  la  Parisienne  (2745) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  (CHAUDS)  (3  PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 

Brioches  St.  Marc  (3006)  Pouding  a  la  Benvenuto  (3092) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  (FROIDS)  (3  PLATS  DE  CHAQUE). 

Vinde  Paitte  Gelee  aux  fruits  (3  plats)  (3187) 

Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  framboisee  (3223) 
60  Glaces  variees  (3538) 

FLANCS. 

2  Chariots  garnis  de  pommes  d'api  (3632) 
Une  brouette  garnie  de  fleurs  sur  socle  (3638) 

CONTRE  FLANCS. 

Deux  etageres  garnies  de  bonbons,  marrons  glaces  et  Victorias  (3379) 
8  Tambours  garnis  de  petits  fours  (3364)     Macarons  (3379) 

Africains  (3364)  Bouchees  de  dames  (3376) 

SEIZE  BOUTS  DE  TABLE. 

4  Corbeilles  de  fruits  frais  (3699)       4  Compotiers  de  fruits  sees  (3699) 
4  Fromages  (3697)  4  Compotes  de  pommes  (3686) 

Cafe  (3701) 


Haut  Sauterne 


Batailty 


Champagne 

Pommery  Sec 


Chateau 
La  Rose 


84  THE    EPICUHEAlSr. 

JANVIER. 

DINER,  20  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANQAISE. 

MENU. 

Premier  Service. 

On  place  les  hors-cPceuvre  sur  la  table. 

Olives  (800)  Salade  d'anchois  (772)  Celeri  rave  (779)  Beurre  (775) 

Radis  (808)  Melon  cantaloup  (799)  Mortadelle  (818)  Caviar  (778) 

Huitres  sur  coquilles  avec  citron  (803) 
Les  hors-d'oeuvre  d'offlce  se  servent  apres  le  potage 

POTAGES. 

Consomme1  souveraine  (243)         Puree  de  volaille  a  la  Dufferin  (269) 

Marsala 
Timbales  a  la  Lagardere  (970) 

RELEVE. 
Bass  raye   a  la  Massena  (1106) 

Marcobrunner 

Selle  de  mouton  a  la  Duchesse  (1644) 
Medoc  Pomard 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Toulouse  (1854)        Cotelettes  de  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Babanine  (2255) 
Ris  de  veau  a  la  St.  Cloud  (1566)  Salmis  de  becasses  a  la  Beaumont  (2207) 

Pichon  Longueville 

PIECES  FROIDES  SUR  SOCLE. 

Galantine  de  dinde.  a  la  Berger  (2499)  Pate  de  foies-gras  de  Strasbourg  (2564) 

Chateau  Yquem 

Deuxieme  Service. 

Retirer  les  hors-d'oeuvre  et  les  pieces  froides  et  placer  le  second  service,  nombre  egal  de  plats  du 
premier  service.    Salade  en  meme  temps  que  le  roti. 

INTERMEDE. 

Punch  a  Vlmptrial  (3509) 

ROTS. 

Poulardes  au  cresson  (1996)        Canvasbacks  rotis  (canards  sauvages)  (2055) 
Chambertin  Chateau  Laffitte 

ENTREMETS. 

Quartiers  d'artichauts  (2688)  Petits  pois  a  la  Frangaise  (2743)  Poires  a  la  Ferriere  (30851; 

Gelee  macedoine  au  champagne  (3179; 
Xeres 

GROS  GATEAUX  (sur  socle) 

Napolitaine  (3250)  Mille-feuilles  Pompadour  (3247) 

Constance 

Troisieme  Service. 
Enlever  le  tout  excepte  le  milieu  de  table  (dormant)  qui  est  garni  de  fleurs  ou  de  groupes,  &c. 

DESSERT. 
Fromages  varies  (3697)        Fruits  frais  en  corbeilles  (3699) 

2'okai 

Gueridons  garnis  de  biscuits  aux  amandes  glacees  (3369)  de  fondants  au  chocolat  (3650) 

et  de  fondants  a  la  vanille  (3651) 
Alicante 
Muscat 

Glaces  Alaska  Florida  (3538)  Sabayon  a  la  .Denari  (3532)          Gelee  d'oranges  en  tasses  (3180) 

Compote  de  poires  (3692)  La  hotte  a  la  Denivelle  (3636) 

Casque  en  nougat  garni  de  sucre  file"  (3598) 

Pale  ale 
Le  cafe1  et  les  liqueurs  sont  servis  au  salon. 


BULLS    OF    FAHE. 


65 


FEBRUARY. 

DINNER  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 

Manestrone  Milanese  (322) 

Remove 

Fried  soles  a  la  Colbert  (1271) 
Cucumbers,  English  style  (2661) 

Entries 

Boiled  leg  of  mutton  with  mashed  turnips  (1629) 
Chicken  sauted  a  la  Stanley  (1900) 

Chicory  with  cream  (2729) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Roast 

Pullet  (1996) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Fruit  crusts  a  la  Mirabeau  (3025) 

Ice  cream  with  white  coffee  (3460) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Coffee  (3701) 


FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oyster  soup  with  ravioles  (337) 

Remove 

Smelts  a  1' Alexandria  (1265) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 
Roast  stuffed  chicken  with  tomato  Conde"  sauce 

(1883) 

Mutton  cutlets,  Russian  style  (1600) 

Celery  stalks  half-glaze  (2721) 

Red  cabbage,  Montargis  (2707) 

Roast 

Redhead  duck  (2064) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Cream  fritters,  Pamela  (3013) 

Almond  ice  cream  (3461) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  Brussels  sprouts  (250) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  of  brains,  Princeton  (947) 

Fish 

Shad,  Irish  style  (1254) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 
Goose  a  la  Chipolata  (1945) 

Entrees 

Carbonnade  of  mutton  a  la  Juvigny  (1589) 

Salmis  of  teal  duck  a  la  Harrison  (2070) 

Spinach  with  cream  (2820) 

Lima  beans  (2699) 

Tosca  punch  (3519) 

Roast 

Truffled  turkey  garnished   with  black  olives 
(2031) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  border  with  bananas  (3005) 

Caramel  ice  cream  (3447) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


24r8  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme1  Adelina  (215) 

Side  Dish 
Mousseline  Waleski  (916) 

Fish 

Redsnapper  a  la  Mobile  (1235) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Quarter  of  boar,  garnished  with  cutlets  and 
breasts  marinade  sauce  (2049) 

Entries 

Stuffed  sweetbreads,  Spanish  style  (1577) 

Chicken  fricassee.  Bouchard'  (1862) 

Cauliflower,  white  sauce  (2719) 

Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Rum  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Blackhead  ducks  (2052) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Compiegne  with  sabayon  (3009) 

Jardiniere  cutlets  ice  cream  (3555) 
Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Coffee  (3701) 


66 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Q-49  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  potatoes,  Benton  (278) 

Remove 
Redsnapper,  Demidoff  (1234) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton,  Bourdaloue  (1623) 
Baked  potatoes  (2771) 

Braised  pullet,  modern  style  (1989) 
Boiled  cauliflower  with  white  sauce  (2719) 

Roast 

Larded  English  partridges  (2102) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Flawn  Golden  Lion  (3035) 

Cold  Entremets 

Strawberry  charlotte  (3146) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


25O  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSON'S. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Marshall  (323) 

Remove 

Soles  a  la  Normande  (1274) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entrees 

Pullet,  English  style  (1985) 
Glazed  endive  (2740) 

Mutton  cutlets,  macedoine  (1594) 
Noodles  milanese  timbales  (2988) 


Cold  Entremets 

Rice  a  la  Mirabeau  (3213) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


251  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Julienne  fau  bonne  (318) 

Side  Dishes 

Atte"reaux  of  sweetbreads  a  la  moderne  (841) 
Fried  oyster  crabs  (1005) 

Fish 

Soles,  Venetian  style  (1278) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Rack  of  lamb  larded  and   roasted  with  puree 
of  split  peas  (1735) 

Entrees 

Escalops  of  pheasant  with  olives  (2283) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Provencal  (2835) 

Sweetbreads,  Piedmontese  style  (1563) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roman  punch  (3515) 

Roast 

Canvasback  duck  (2055) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Spanish  pudding  (3110) 

Pineapple  water-ice  (3606) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


252  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,    16  to  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup. 
Champetre  (296) 

Side  Dish 
Beef  palate  croquettes  (875) 

Fish 

"Whltefish,  pimentade  sauce  (1312) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 
Loin  of  veal  a  1'Ambassade  (1534) 

Entrees 

Chicken  fillets  Sadi  Carnot  (1853) 
Green  peas  with  shredded  lettuce  (2747) 

Terrapin  a  la  Newberg  (1086) 
American  sherbet  (8521) 

Roast 

Ptarmigans  (2072) 
Escarole  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Chestnut  croquettes  (3017) 

Andalusian  ice  cream  (3446) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF 


253  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pure*e  of  beans  a  la  Conde  (280) 

Remove 
Fried  soles  (1280) 

Entries 

Leg  of  mutton,  Parisian  style  (1634) 
Celery  with  bechamel  and  croutons  (2720) 

Reedbirds  vol-au-vent,  Diplomate  (2407) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Golden  crusts  (3021) 

Cold  Entremets 
Ministerial  pudding  (3209) 

Fresh  fruits  (3699) 
Cheese  (3697) 
Coffee  (3701) 


254:  FRBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Remove 

Porgies  with  Chablis  wine  (1231) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 
Oxtails  with  glazed  vegetables  (1325) 

Chickens  sauted  a  la  Nantaise  (1896) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Roast 

Leg  of  mutton  (1633) 
"Water-cress  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 

Glazed  apple  fritters  (3037) 

Rye  bread  ice  cream  (3450) 

Fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Coffee  (3701) 


355  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme1  Bariatenski  (219) 

Side  Dish 
Attereaux  of  turkey  (842) 

Fish 

Pompano  a  1'Anthelme  (1220) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Remove 
Chine  of  pork  a  la  Parmentier  (1774) 

Entries 

Chicken  epigrammes  a  la  Volnay  (1833) 
Tomatoes  Trevise  (2836) 

Tournedos  of  beef  a  la  Marietta  (1435) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Venetian  sherbet 

Roast 

Brant  ducks  with  cauliflower  Villeroi  (2053) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Crescents  of  noodles  with  cherries  (3015) 

Coffee  mousse  ice  cream  (3473) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


256  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16   TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Hunter's  style  (315) 

Side  Dish 
Cassolettes  Lusigny  (860) 

Fish 
Sheepshead  a  la  Meissonier  (1260) 

Remove 
Rump  of  beef,  Flemish  style  (1341) 

Entrees 

Breast  of  pullet,  Macedoine  (2002) 
Ravioles  a  la  Bellini  (2976) 

Mutton  cutlets,  breaded  with  pur^e  of  truffles 

(1599) 
Artichoke  (bottoms)  a  la  Soubise  (2681) 

P)'unelle  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Madeira  crusts  (3026) 

Cold  Entremets 

Harrison  pudding  (3207) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


68 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


257  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PEESONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Noodles  with  Parmesan  (830) 

Remove 

Perch  with  parsley  water  (1211) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Suckling  pig  with  sauerkraut  (1811) 
Spinach  a  la  Rougemont  (2822) 

Lamb  cutlets  with  mushrooms  (1680) 
Small  bunches  of  asparagus  (2694) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Water-cress  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mundane  fritters  (3044) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 
Cheese  (3697) 
Coffee  (3701) 

* 


FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS 
MENU. 

Soup 
Small  individual  soup  pots  (346) 

Remove 

Baked  frostfish  (1161) 
Potato  croquettes,  surprise  (2782) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Bordelaise  (1622) 
Spaghetti,  Queen  style  (2968) 

Breasts  of  pullets  a  la  Montmorency  (1998) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast 

Ptarmigans  (2072) 
Celery  knob  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 

Conde  peaches  (3081) 

Bavarois  with  Meringues  (3133) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


259  FEBRUARY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Shrimps,  mignon  (345) 

Side  Dish 
Colombines  of  chicken  livers  with  ham  (865) 

Fish 
Fried  oyster  crabs  (1005) 

Remove 
Tenderloin  of  beef,  Neapolitan  style  (1455) 

Entrees 

Grenades  of  turkey  a  la  Jules  Verne  (2035) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Salmis  of  pheasants  a  la  Lorenzo  (2106) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

Pdquerette  sherbet  (3527) 

Roast 

Capon  (1826; 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Pear  crusts  (3027) 

Ice  cream,  Ribambelle  (3576) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


260  FEBRUARY 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  Jerusalem  artichokes  (257; 

Side  Dish 
Attereaux  of  game  (842) 

Fish 

Fillets  of  soles  a  la  Marguery  (1273) 
Sarah  Potatoes  (2802) 

Remove 
Quarter  of  veal,  Scotch  style  (1541) 

Entrees 
Grenadins  of  beef  with  round  potatoes,  Valoii 

sauce  (1393) 
Chicken  quenelles,  Bretonne  (2328) 

Brussels  sprouts,  Baroness  style  (2703) 

Artichokes  a  la  Rachel  (2690) 

Mephisto  sherbet  (3524) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mellow  pudding,  apricot  sauce  (3094) 

Frozen  Entremets 

Plombiere  Montesquieu  (3480) 

Small  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


BIJL.LS    OF    FARE.  69 

FEVRIER  £G\ 

DINER  14  COUVERTS— 1  L'ANGLAISK 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme*  Comus  (226)  Chartreuse  (297) 

POISSONS. 

Black  bass  a  la  Narragansett  (1095)  Petoncles  a  la  Brestoise  (1074) 

GBOSSE  PIECE. 

Jambon  roti  a  la  broche  sauce  madere  (1789) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  1'Epicurienne  (1842)  Cotelettes  de  mouton  &  la  Nelson  (1596) 

Filets  de  faisan  aux  truffes  (2105)  Souffle  de  volatile  (2359) 

ROTS. 
Canvasback  duck  (canard  sauvage)  (2055)  Pate"  de  foies  gras  de"coup6  (8563) 

RELEVES. 
Charlotte  de  pommes  a  la  Destrey  (3007)  Pouding  Lafayette  (3208) 

ENTREMETS. 

Croutes  aux  champignons  (2759)  Artichauts  a  la  Rachel  (2690) 

Tartelettes  d'abricots  (3402)  Gelee  au  marasquin  (3186) 

Glace  Comtesse  Leda  (3548) 

BUFFET. 

Cotes  debceuf  roties  a  1'Americaine  (1331)       Selle  de  mouton  rotie  (1605)       Potage  somoule  (316) 
Os  a  la  moelle  sur  croutes  de  pain  grillees  (1319)         Tarte  de  noix  de  coco  (3200) 


FEVRIER 

DINER  20  COUVERTS— A  LA  RUSSE. 

MENU. 
20  plats  d'huttres  et  citrons  (803) 

2  POTAGES. 
1  Brunoise  aux  quenelles  (291)  1  Bisque  de  homard  a  la  Cambridge  (207) 

2  HORS-D'<EUVRE  CHAUDS. 
2  Palmettes  de  dinde  a  la  Be"arnaise  (933) 

2   ENTREES   FROIDES. 

1  Aspic  de  cretes  et  de  rognons  de  coq  a  la  Mazarin  (2410)          1  Salade  de  poisson  (2631) 

2  GROSSES  PIECES. 

2  Filets  de  bceuf  a  la  Godard  (1451) 

6  ENTREES   (PAR  DEUX). 

2  Filets  de  poularde  a  la  Montmorency  (1998)        1  Saumon  a  la  Victoria  (1243) 
2  Ris  de  veau  a  la  Montpensier  (1561)  1  Faisan  a  la  Montebello  (2108) 

Sorbet  a  laprunelle  (8510) 

2  PLATS  DE   ROTI. 

\  de  canards  a  tete  rouge  (2063)  1  de  dinde  a  1'Americaine  (2028)  Salade  laitue  (2672) 

4    ENTREMETS  DE    LEGUMES. 

2  Tomates  frites  a  la  Gibbons  (2841)          2  Haricots  verts  etuves  (2828) 

6   ENTREMETS    DE  DOUCEUR. 

2  Beignets  d'abricots  au  Marasquin  (3039) 

1  Gelee  a  la  Russe  (3182)  1  Blanc  manger  Smolenska  (3138) 

2  Glaces  Plombiere  d'Alengon  (3483) 


70  THE    EPICUREAN. 

FEVRIER  263 

CAREME— DINER  16  COU VERTS— A  L'AMERICAINE. 

Sur  le  milieu  de  la  table  une  corbeille  de  fleurs. 
MENU   (en   maigre). 

BUFFET    RUSSE. 

Huitres   (803) 

POTAGES. 

Tortue  verte  au  clair  (353)        Creme  d'asperges  St.  Vallier  (247) 

HORS-D  CEUVRE  CHAUDS. 

Cromesquis  de  filet  de  Bass  (870) 

RELEVES. 

Sheepshead  au  court-bouillon  (1262)        Anguille  a  la  marechale  (1149) 
Pommes  de  terre,  boules  de  neige  (2798) 

4  ENTREES. 

ferrapene  &  la  Maryland  Club  (1088)  Redsnapper  a  la  Che'rot  (1232) 

Choux  fleurs  gratines  (2717)  Bass  raye  a  la  Maintenon  (1105) 

Vol-au-vent  de  morue  (2400) 
Punch  a  la  Tremiere  (3520) 

2    ROTS. 

Sarcelles  a  la  gelee  de  groseilles  (2068)          Grenouilles  a  la  Orly  (1021)          Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

Souffle  au  fromage  de  gruyere  (2984) 

ENTREMETS    DE   DOUCEUR. 

Ci-outes  aux  ananas,  sauce  abricots  (3022)    Ponding  Boissy  (3205)    Gelee  d'orange  en  tasses  (3180) 

Glaces,  Bombe  a  la  Trobriand  (3440) 

Dessert 
Caf6  (3701) 


F^vRIER  264 

DINER  14  COUVERTS— A  L'AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Franklyn  (233)  Tortue  verte  aux  quenelles  a  la  moelle  (353) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE 

Timbales  a  la  Palermitaine  (978) 

POISSONS. 
Bass  raye  a  la  Moruay  (1107)  Crabes  d'huitres  frits  (1005) 

RELEVE. 
Selle  d'agneau  a  la  pure*e  de  navets  (1745)  Choux  de  Bruxelles  sautes  (2704) 

ENTREES. 

Poularde  a  1'ivoire  aux  quenelles  de'core'es  (1988)  Champignons  a  la  Reynal  (2756) 

Ris  de  veau  &  la  Piemontaise  (1563)  Tomates  a  la  Reine  (2840) 

Punch  Elisabeth  (3507) 

ROT. 

Ruddy  ducks  (2066)  Salade  de  chicoree  (2668) 

Souffle  au  parmesan  (2983) 

ENTREMETS    DE   DOUCEUR. 

Compiegne  au  sabayon  (3009) 

Gel6e  mace"doine  au  champagne  (3179)  Pouding  Valois  (3211) 

Glaces,  Fiori  a  la  vanille  (3469) 

Fruits  (3699)  Fromages  (3697)  Compotes  (3686) 

Cafe  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


265  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  larks  with  chestnuts  (281) 

Remove 

Pompano  a  la  Duclair  (1222) 
Potatoes  boiled  with  fried  bread  raspings  (2776) 

Entrees 

Breast  of  veal  stuffed  and  garnished  with 
tomatoes  (1492) 

Grenadins  of  tenderloin  of  beef  (1384) 
Timbale  of  noodles  a  la  Pearsall  (2989) 

Asparagus  in  small  bunches  (2694) 

Roast 

Blackhead  ducks  (2052) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Light  pancakes  with  jams  (3079) 

Alaska  Florida  ice  cream  (3538) 
Dessert 


266  MARCH. 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Paillettes  (339) 

Remove 

Turbot,  caper  sauce  (1307) 
Mashed  potatoes  (2798) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Reglain  (1626) 
Braised  onions  (2765) 

Chicken  cromesquis  (868) 
Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Roast 

Ptarmigans  (2072) 
Dandelion  salad  (2670) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  a  la  Giudici  (2990) 

Parisian  ice  cream   (3573) 
Dessert 


267  MARCH. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  string  beans  a  la  Vefour  (264) 

Side  Dish 
Colombines  of  fat  liver  (866) 

Fish 

Halibut  with  fine  herbs  a  la  Reynal  (1171) 
Snow  potatoes  (2798) 

Remove 

Rumps  of  beef  a  la  Chatellier  (1339) 
Macaroni  a  la  Brignoli  (2958) 

Entrees 

Chicken  Championne   (1879) 
Carrot's  with  cream  (2714) 

Lamb  cutlets,  Giralda  (1676) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Fine  Champagne  sJierbet  (3510) 

Roast 

,  Reedbirds  (2152) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Italian  pudding  (3101) 

Cold  Entremets. 

(Ice)  Nesselrode  pudding  with  candied  chest- 
nuts (3495) 
Dessert 


268  MARCH. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Green  turtle  with  marrow  quenelles  (353) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes  a  la  Junot  (921) 

Fish 

Salmon,  Argentine  style  (1237) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Remove 

Loin  of  beef  a  la  Norwood  (1348) 
Fedelini  Cardinal  (2953) 

Entries 

Lamb  minions,  cream  sauce  (1724) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Escalops  of  liver  a  la  Rulli  (2280) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Imperial  punch  (3509) 

Roast 

Capon  (1826) 
Corn  salad  (2669) 

Hot  Entremets. 
Rice  with  apples  (3115) 

Parfait  coffee  ice  cream  (3479) 
Dessert 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


269  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Tapioca  (316) 

Remove 

Fisherman's  Matelote  (1205) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Entrees 

Cases  of  squabs  a  la  Umberto  (2234) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Montpensier  (1561) 

Stuffed  cauliflower  bechamel  (2715) 

Francatelli  risot  (2979) 

Roast 

Loin  of  mutton  on  the  spit  (1637) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Chocolate  souffle  (3119) 

Pineapple  water  ice  (3606) 
Dessert 


27O  MARCH 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 

Cream  of  carrots  with   Compiegne  crouton 
(263) 

Remove 

Paupiettes  of  herring  with  milts  (1176) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton,  Roederer  style  (1627) 

Mushrooms  a  la  Dumas  (2757) 
Brant  ducks  with  cauliflower  Villeroi  (205(5; 

Roast 

Capon  with  water-cress  (1826) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Zephyr  of  rice  with  pineapple  (3124) 

Lemon  water  ice  (3604) 
Dessert 


271  MARCH 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Calf's  feet,  English  style  (293) 

Side  Dish 
Chicken  rissoles  (948) 

Fish 

Broiled  salmon,  Bearnaise  sauce  (1244) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Melinet  (1452) 
Cepes  with  cream  (2724) 

Entrees 

Chicken  fillets  a  1'Impe'ratrice  (1841) 
String  beans  a  la  Bourguignonne  (2826) 

Sweetbread  cutlets,  modern  style  (2271) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Prunelle  piinch  (3510) 

Roast 

Blackhead  ducks  (2052) 
Escarole  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apple  charlotte  (3008) 

Parfait  with  nougat  (3478) 
Dessert 


272  MARCH. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Hungarian  Consomme  (235) 

Side  Dish 
Castillane  croustades,  pure"e  of  chestnuts  (895) 

Fish 

Flounders  a  la  Dieppoise  (1153) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 
Hind  quarter  of  lamb  with  mint  sauce  (1732) 

Entries 

Sweetbreads,  Monarch  style  (1570) 
Trevise  tomatoes  (2836) 

Pigeons,  printaniere  style  (1966) 
Gnocquis  timbale  a  la  Choiseul  (2987) 

Rebecca  sherbet  (3528) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  (2055) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  pudding,  fruit  sauce  (3106) 

Italian  mousse  (3475) 
Dessert 


273  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  oysters  a  la  "Wilson  (210) 

Remove 

Perch  with  Valois  sauce  (1209) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entree* 

Shoulder  of  lamb  with  pur£e  of  celery  (1753) 

Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Bouchard  (1862) 

Oarrots,  Colbert  style  (2711) 

Roast 

Mongrel  ducks  (1921) 
Monk's  beard  salad  (2674) 

Entremets 
Strawberry  fritters  with  macaroons  (3049) 

Fromage  glace  ice  cream  (3553) 
Dessert 


274;  MARCH. 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  rice  a  la  Cre"mieux  (249) 

Remove 

Salmon,  French  style  (1241) 
Cucumber  salad  (2661) 

Entries 

Capon  a  la  Bressoise  (1822) 
Rack  of  veal  a  1'Albarii  (1542) 

String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Raynal  (2756) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Brioches,  St.  Mark  (3006) 

Strawberry  ice  cream  (3607) 
Dessert 


275  MARCH. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Velvet  (356) 

Side  Dish 
Attereaux  of  beef  palates  (836) 

Fish 

Canadian  turbot  a  la  Houston  (1305) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Ham  a  la  Benedict  (1787) 
Stuffed  green  peppers  (2768) 

Entrees 

Breast  of  pullet  a  la  Visconti  (2001) 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  Salamander  (2749) 

Small  vol-au-vent,  Parisian  style  (2406) 
Asparagus,  vinaigrette  sauce  (2692) 

Champagne  punch  (3504) 

Roaxt 

Roast  saddle  of  mutton  on  the  spit  (1648) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot  Entremets 
Meringued  apples,  Nubian  (2996) 

Mignon  ice  cream  (3564) 
Dessert 


276  MARCH. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Rice  a  la  Rudini  (343) 

Side  Dish 
Robertson  ham  mousseline  (915) 

Fish 

Sheepshead,  Cardinal  sauce  (1261) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Remove 

Oxtails  hochepot  (1324) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Provengal  (2835) 

Entries 

Squabs,  Carolina  (2021)) 

Fried  stuffed  lettuce  (2752) 

Veal  cutlets.  Pogarski  (2273) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Scotch  Haggis  (1640) 
Pdquerette  sherbet  (3527) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  (2055) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot    Entremets 
Schiller  pudding  (3109) 

Mousse  Siraudin  icecream  (3472) 
Dessert 


74 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


277  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  leeks  with  quenelles  (253) 

Remove 

Flounders  a  la  Jules  Janin  (1156) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Loin  of  lamb  with  sauted  tomatoes  (1718) 
Baked  stuffed  eggplant  (2738) 

Boar  saddle  with  gravy  (2050) 
irtichoke  (bottoms)  with  cauliflower  (2685) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Rice  croquettes  with  orange  raspberry  sauce 
(3018) 

Fiori  di  latte,  Bellini  ice  cream  (3467) 
Dessert 


278  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  chicken  a  la  Reine  (270) 

Remove 

Pike  perch  a  la  Geraldin  (1215) 
Potato  cakes  with  ham  (2779) 

Entrees 

Capon  a  la  Pondichery  (1824) 
Kernel  of  mutton,  Milanese  (1630) 

Green  peas  with  shredded  lettuce  (2747) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Rivera  (2758) 

Roast 

Brant  ducks  with  cauliflower  Villeroi  (2053) 
Celery,  Mayonnaise  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mirlitons  of  pears,  bienvenue  (3054) 

Sicilian  pudding  ice  cream  (3499) 
Dessert 


279  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Cream  of  green  peas  a  la  St.  Germain  (260) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes  of  fat  liver,  Delmontes  (925) 

Fish 

Canadian  turbot  a  la  Mercier  (1306) 
Boiled  potatoes,  English  style  (2774) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  vegetables  (1466) 
Timbales  of  chicory  with  cream  (2728) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Victor  Hugo  (1689) 
String  beans  a  I1  Albani  (2825) 

Pate  a  la  Richelieu  (2310) 
Maraschino  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks (2063) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Coupole  Madison  (3029) 

(Iced)  Fleury  pudding  (3493) 
Dessert 


28O  MARCH. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
D'Osmont  (306) 

Side  Dish 
Turbigo  patties  (941) 

Fish 

Pompano  a  la  Carondelet  (1221) 
Potato  croquettes  in  surprise  (2782) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  veal  with  lettuce  (1545) 
Ravioles  a  la  Bellini  (2976) 

Entrees 

Chicken  poeled  a  la  Stuyvesant  (1911) 
Sweet  potatoes  with  lobster  coral  (2830) 

Thrush  pudding  (2324) 
American  sherbet  (3521) 

Roast 

English  pheasants  (2107) 
Lettuce  salad  with  anchovies  (2673) 

Hot  Entremets 
Franklyn  pudding  (3098) 

(Iced)  Plombiere,  Havanese  style  (3484) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  75 

MAES.  381 

DINER,  12  COUVERTS— A  L'AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

ConsommS  Florentine  (232)  Creme  d'asperges  &  la  St.  VaUier  (347) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  1'Arlequin  (967) 

POISSON. 
Filets  de  bass  a  la  Conti  (1102)  Pommes  de  terre  Dauphine  (2783) 

RELEVE. 
Selle  d'agneau  Chanceliere  (1739)        Fouds  d'artichauts  a  la  Villars  (2682) 

ENTREES. 

Faisan  pique  aux  truffes  (2111)  Ris  de  veau  a  la  Theodora  (1568) 

Macecloine  de  legumes  a  la  Montigny  (2755)  Tomates  farcies  aux  champignons  (2842) 

Vol-au-vent  aux  huitres  (2402) 
Punch  a  la  Boiiquetikre  (3503) 

ROT. 

Poularde  truffee  (1992) 

FROID. 

Terrine  de  foies  de  canards  a  1'Aquitaine  (2596)        Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Gelee  aux  Reines-Claude  (3187)  Bavarois  a  la  vanille  (3135) 

Gateau  Compiegne  (3236)  Cornets  a  la  Creme  a  1'orange  (3148) 

Glaces  Plombiere  a  la  Havanaise  (3484) 
Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364)  Caf6  (3701) 


MARS. 

DINER,  12  COUVERTS— A  L'AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Andalouse  (216)  Bisque  d'eerevisses  a  la  Persigny  (204) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Bouchees  aux  crabes  d'huitres  (935) 

POISSONS. 

Pompano  a  la  Mazarin  (1224)        Blanchaille  frite  a  la  Diable  (1310) 

RELEVE. 
Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Franchise  (1744)          Choux  fleurs  au  fromage  gratings  (2717) 

ENTREES. 

Mignons  de  filet  de  bcsuf  Baillard  (1400)        Petits  pois  aux  laitues  braisees  (2746) 

Timbale  de  volaille  Parisienne  (2382) 

Asperges  a  la  vinaigrette  (2692) 

Sorbet,  jeune  Amerique  (3530) 

ROTS. 

Poules  de  neige  (2072)          Mesanges  moustache  (2152) 

FROID. 
Bordure  de  foies-gras  (2483)        Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

ENTREMETS   DE   DOUCEUR. 

Beignets  alliance  (3036) 

Gelee  d'orange  en  tasses  (3180)  Brisselets  a  la  creme  framboisee  (8223) 

Glaces,  plum  pouding  (3496) 

Dessert        Cafe  (3701) 


76  THE    EPICUREAN. 

MARS.  283 

D!NER  DE  40  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSE. 
MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  a  la  Noailles  (237)        Chiffonade  aux  croutes  (253) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbales  a  la  Lombarde  (972)        Bressoles  de  gibier  (847) 

POISSONS. 
Redsnapper  a  la  Crequy  (1233)       Aiguillettes  de  maquereaux  a  la  Bonnefoy  (1191) 

RELEVE. 
Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Brighton  (1738) 

ENTREES. 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  St.  Laurent  (1567)        Filets  de  poulet.  a  la  Marechale  (1848) 
Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  Club  (1088)        Souffle  de  faisans  a  la  Andrews  (2365) 

ROTS. 
Poulets  rotis  a  la  casserole  (1881)  Mesanges  moustache  (2152) 

LEGUMES. 

Macedoine  a  la  Montigny  (2755)        Celeri  frit  a  la  Villeroi  (2722) 

ENTREMETS. 

Biscuits  Frascati  (3004)        Charlotte  de  pommes  Calville  (3143) 
Gelee  aux  ananas  Californienne  (3178)         Couronne  a  la  Choiseuil(3154) 

Glaces  et  Dessert 


MARE  284 

DINER  DE  20  COUVERTS— (A  LA  FRANCAISE). 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Adelina  (215)  Puree  de  lucines  a  la  Hendrick  (197) 

GROSSES  PIECES. 

Bass  rave  a  la  Rouennaise  (1108)        Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Bareda  (1442) 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Leverrier  (1677) 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Villeroi  (1857)        Ris  de  veau  a  la  Binda  (1551) 
Terrapene  a  la  Crisfield  (1084) 

Petits  vol-au-vent  d'huitres,  Maintenon  (2405) 
Aspic  de  homards  (2414) 

ROTS. 
Pigeonneaux  rotis  a  la  casserole  (2018)          Canards  sauvages  (tetes  rouges)  (2063) 

ENTREMETS. 

Tomates  farcies  aux  champignons  frais  (2842)  Epinards  a  la  Rougemont  (2822) 

Beignets  souffles  Medicis  (3047) 

Gel6e  a  Torange  en  tasses  (3180)        Bavarois  au  chocolat  (3131)        Flan  aux  poires  (3175) 

Dessert 


BIJL.LS    OF    FARE. 


77 


285  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Fish  chowder  a  la  Stebeus  (301) 

Remove 

Cutlets  of  kingfish,   Mayonnaise    mousseline 
(2260) 

Entrees 

Shoulder  of  lamb  a  la  Benton  (1748) 
Spaghetti  macaroni  a  la  Salvini  (2969) 

Thrushes  in  the  saucepan  (2165) 

Okra  garnished  with  barley  bechamel  crous- 

tades   (2763) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Fried  cream  a  la  Maintenon  (3010) 

Vanilla  ice  cream,  Italian  meringue  (3458) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 

Nuts  and  raisins  (3699) 

Dessert 


287  APRIL. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Noques  (358) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes,  Varsovian  style  (924) 

Fish 

Pompano,  tomato  sauce  (1228) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Remove 

Boiled  ham  a  la  Leonard  (1788) 
Spinach  a  la  Noailles  (2821) 

Entrees 
Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Bonuefoy 

(1412) 
Artichoke  bottoms,  Soubise  (2681) 

English  pheasants  a  la  Perigueux  (2109) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Siberian  punch  (3516) 

Roast 

Ruddy  ducks  (2066) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Cabinet  pudding  with  sabayon  (3096) 

(Iced)  Mousse  with  cordials  (3476) 
Dessert 


286  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pilaff,  Turkish  style  (341) 

Removes 

Smelts  in  dauphins  a  la  Hamlin  (1270) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Top  round  of  beef,  Parisian  style  (1336) 
Cabbage,  Peasant  style  (2706) 

Entree 

Pigeons  poeled,  Lombardy  style  (1960) 
Quartered  artichokes  with  marrow  (2688) 

Roast 

Ducks  (1921) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Pancakes  of  peach  marmalade  mace'doine  (3075) 

Small  cream  biscuits  (3187) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Dessert 


APRIL. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Remusat  consomme  (240) 

Side  Dish 
Renaissance  timbales  (981) 

Fish 

Striped  bass,  Hollandaise  sauce  (1110) 
Boiled  potatoes  persillade  (2774) 

Remove 

Capons  a  T Amphitryon  (1821) 
Mushrooms  with  thickened  butter  (2760) 

Entrees 

Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Meyerbeer 
(1404) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 
Shells  of  chicken  a  la  Shaw  (2344) 

Californian  sherbet  (3523) 

Roast 

Pullets  (1996) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Humboldt  pudding  (3100) 

(Iced)  Alengon  plombiere  (3483) 
Dessert 


78 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


289  APRIL, 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pot  au  feu  (342) 

Remove 

Spotted  fish  with  green  ravigote  sauce  (1286) 
Mashed  potatoes  (2798) 

Entrees 

Braised  leg  of  mutton  with  rice  (1636) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Villars  (2682) 

Baked  thrushes  (2164) 
String  beans  a  la  Bourguignonne  (2826) 

Roast 

Chickens  (1881) 
Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Hot  Entremets 
Roman  Triumvirate  fritters  (3050) 

Strawberry  water  ice  (3607) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Coffee  (3701) 


29O  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10   PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Champetre  (296) 

Remove 

Fillets  of  soles  a  la  Richelieu  (1275) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Chicken  fricassee  with  crustacean  sauce  (1867) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Larded  veal  cutlets  with  chicory  (1500) 
Fried  oyster-plant  (2817) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Apple  fritters  with  kirsch  (3038) 

Ice  cream  with  orange-flower  water  (3459» 
Fruits  (3699) 
Cheese  (3697) 
Coffee  (3701) 

* 


291  APRIL. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Clear  mock  turtle  (354) 

Side  Dish 
Fontage  a  la  Flavignan  (907) 

Fish 

Trout,  Joan  of  Arc  (1294) 
Snow  potatoes  (2798) 

Remove 

Turkey  grenades  a  la  Jules  Verne  (2035) 
Turnips  with  Allemande  sauce  (2848) 

Entrees 
Round  bottom  fricandeau  of  veal  with  gravy 

(1543) 
Spinach  with  cream  (2820) 

Artichoke  bottoms  with  cauliflower  (2685) 
Beatrice  Punch  (3502) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Zephyr  of  rice  with  pineapple  (3124) 

(Iced)  Cavour  pudding  (3489) 
Dessert 


292  APRIL. 

DINNER  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Oysters  (803) 

Soup 
Ponsardin  fish  (308) 

Side  Dish 
La  Valliere  tim bales  (971) 

Fisli 

Shad  with  sorrel  puree  (1256) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  mutton,  German  style  (1645) 
Beets  with  cream  (2702) 

Entries 

Duck  a  la  Matignon  (1918) 
Green  peas  with  shredded  lettuce  (2747) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  St.  Cloud  (1566) 
String  beans  with  butter  (2829) 

Prunelle  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Pullets  with  water-cress  (1996) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Bananas  fried  with  cherries  (3003) 

(Iced)  Rice  a  la  Ristori  (3577) 
Dessert 


OF    FARE. 


293  APRIL 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  oatmeal,  Toulousaine  (275) 

Remove 

Fillet  of  salmon  trout  a  1'Antoinette  (1302) 
Potatoes,  Vienna  style  (2812) 

Entrees 

Calf's  head  in  tortue  (1517) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Madeleine  (1891) 

Jerusalem  artichokes  a  la  Salamander  (2749) 

Asparagus  a  la  Main  tenon  (2695) 

Roast 

Pheasants  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Mirabeau  crusts  with  fruits  (3025) 

Custard  cream  with  caramel  (3161) 

Dessert 


294r  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Giblet  a  la  Reglain  (311) 
Remove 

Chicken  halibut,  carrot  sauce  (1173) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton,  Granville  (1628) 
Ducklings  with  oronges  (1943) 

Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 
String  beans,  with  butter  (2829) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Flawn  a  la  Manhattan  (3034) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Dessert 


295  APRIL. 

DINNER,    16  TO  20  PERSONS 

MENU. 

Oysters  (803) 

Soup 
Vermicelli  (339) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes  of  Guinea  fowl  a  la  Paladio  (926) 

Fish 

Soles  a  la  Trouville  (1277) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Remove 

Breast  of  veal  a  la  Mondoux  (1488) 
Sorrel  with  gravy  (2818) 

Entrees 

Salmis  of  teal  duck  a  la  Harrison  (2070) 
Oyster-plant,  fine  herbs  (2817) 
Coquilles  a  la  Benoiton  (2339) 

Rum  ptmch  (3510) 

Roast 

Spring  turkey  with  water-cress  (2044) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot   Entremets 
Savarin  with  apricots  (3117) 

Valence  cups  with  peaches,  ice  cream  (3587) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


296  APRIL 

DINNER,  16  TO   20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Lobster,  Duke  Alexis  (321) 

Side  Dish 
Lombardy  Timbales  (972) 

Fish 

Shad  a  la  Evers  with  shad  roe  croquettes  (1252) 
Broiled  potatoes  with  fried  bread  (2776) 

Remove 

Virginia  ham  with  stringed  eggs  (1792) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Villars  (2682) 

Entrees 
Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of   beef  a  la  Magiiy 

(1414) 

Sauted  sweet  peppers  (2769) 

Chicken  boudins  a  1'Ecarlate  (2214) 

Paradise  sherbet  (3525) 

Roast 

Capon  (1826) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Pineapple  Carolina  (3090) 

Alaska  Florida  ice  cream  (3538) 
Dessert 


80 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


297  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 

Sago  (316) 

Remove 

Weakfish  a  la  Brighton  (1308) 
Potatoes  with  melted  butter  (2790) 

Entrees 

Rack  of  lamb  with  sauted  artichokes  (1734) 
Cutlets  of  chicken  a  la  Clarence  (2258) 

Baked  stuffed  eggplant  (2738) 
Boquillon  tomatoes  (2833) 

Roast 

Turkey  (2028) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot   Entremets 
Fried  bananas,  cherry  sauce  (3003) 

Parisian  ice  cream  (3573) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 
Coffee  (3701) 


298  APRIL. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. , 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crabs,  Stevens  (199) 

Remove 

Sturgeon  with  quenelles  and  olives  (1289) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Entrees 
Grenadins  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Beau- 

marchais  (1385) 
Red  cabbage  a  la  Montargis  (2707) 

Border  of  risot  of  lobster  (2213) 
Artichokes  a  la  Rachel  (2690) 

Roast 

Mallard  ducks  (2059) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Orange  fritters  a  la  Talleyrand  (3045) 

(Iced)  Pudding  Duchess  (3492) 
Fruits  (3699) 
Cheese  (3697) 
Coffee  (3701) 


299  APRIL. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme"  a  la  Grammont  (234) 

Side  Dish 
Cromesquis  of  scallops  (873) 

Fish 

Small  trout  au  bleu  (1297) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 

Ham  with  spinach  (1791) 
Onions,  Hollandaise  sauce  (2764) 

Entrees 
Breast  of  chicken,  Mexican  style,  in  papers 

(1859) 
Carrots,  Colbert  style  (2711) 

Tourte  of  chicken  (2391) 
Sorbet  Young  America  (3530) 

Roast 

Ruddy  ducks  (2066) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Pancake  sticks  Royeaux  (3076) 

(Iced)  Constantine  bomb  (3439) 
Dessert 


30O  APRIL. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  cauliflower,  Brisson  (251) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  a  la  Demidoff  (950) 

Fish 

Stuffed  trout  (1301) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Turkey  with  white  oyster  sauce  (2032) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Florence  (2677) 

Entrees 

Fillet  of  lamb,  Printaniere  (1726) 
Spaghetti  a  la  Laurence  (2966) 

Pigeons  with  crawfish  (1968) 
Stuffed  lettuce  with  half-glaze  sauce  (2753) 

Punch  Elizabeth  (3507) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  (2055) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Madison  Cupola  (3029) 

(Iced)  Vermeil  globules  a  la  Damseaux  (3588) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  81 

AVRIL.  3O1 

DINER,  14  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE. 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Royale  (241)  Creme  de  laitues  a  la  Evers  (258) 

POIS8ON. 

Bass  raye"   sauce  crevettes  aux  petoncles  frits  (1111)         Croquettes  de  pommes  de  terre  (2782) 

GROSSE  PIECE. 

Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Frangaise  (1744)  Garottes  aux  fines  herbes  (2712) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Harrison  (1844)  Ris  de  veau  a  la  Conti  (1554) 

Vol-au-vent  Delmontes  (2403)  Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  Club  (1088) 

ROTS. 

Dinde  a  1'Americaine  (2028)  Salade  de  cresson  et  pommes  (2676) 

RELEVES. 
Dampfnouilles  a  la  creme  (3030)  Souffl6  au  chocolat  (chaud)  (3119) 

ENTREMETS. 

Tomates  farcies  a  la  Provencale  (2835)  Macaroni  au  gratin  (2959) 

Bordure  Caroline  au  champagne  (froid)  (3140)  Gelee  de  kirsch  aux  fruits  (3187) 

Gaufres  roulees,  creme  au  curagoa  (3224)  Tartelettes  de  Valence  (3336) 

(BUFFET). 

Aloyau  a  la  Norwood  (1348)         Selle  de  mouton  rotie  (1648)       Yorkshire  pudding  (770) 
Pommes  tartelettes  (2810)  Tarte  Conde  (3220)  Potage  d'orge  au  celeri  (285) 


AVRIL  302 

DINER  14  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE. 
MENU. 

Petit  Buffet  Russe. 
ffaut    Sauterne  Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Sherry  Consomme  printanier  aux  qnenelles  (239) 

Creme  d'oseille  aux  ceufs  farcis  (262) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE  CHAUD. 

Timbales  des  Gourmets  (966) 

Niersteiner  POISSON. 

Truites  a  1'Hoteliere  (1292) 

Champagne  Pommery  RELEVE. 

Poularde  farcie  a  la  Parisienne  (1990)     C61eri  a  la  Villeroi  (2722) 

8t.  J alien  Supfrieur  ENTREES. 

Grenadins  de  filet  de  veau,  sauce  tomate  Argentine  (1507) 
Haricots  verts  au  beurre  (2829) 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Financiere  (2396) 
Petits  pois  a  la  Frangaise  (2743) 

Sorbet  a  la  prunelle  (3510) 

Romance  ROTS. 

Canards  a  tete  rouge  (2063) 
Petits  aspics  de  foies  gras  (2412) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

ENTREMETS   DE  DOUCEUR. 

Pouding  de  Cabinet  a  la  Royale  (chaud)  (3095) 
Suedoise  de  pommes  (3218)        Titnbale  de  gaufres  (3222) 
Charlotte  Russe  (3145)  Gelee  Macedoine  au  champagne  (3179) 

Champagne  PIECES  MONTEES. 

Cliquot  doux  Bateau  Bon  Voyage  (3631) 

Panier  de  Perrette  (3629) 
Apollinaris  Glaces  Cygne  aux  roseaux  (3597) 

Fruits  (3699)  Cafe  (3701)  Petits  fours  (3364) 


82 
AVRIL 


Haut  Sauterne 

Amontillado 

Johannisberger 

Gold  seal 

Cliquot  sec 
Chateau  Laffitte 


Apollinaris 


AVRIL 


THE    EPICUREAN. 

303 

DfNER  200  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE. 

v  '-, 

Societe  St.  George. 

MENU. 
Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Souveraine  (243)    Creme  d'asperges  aux  pointes  d'asperges  (248) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Sartiges  (984) 
POISSONS. 

Bass  raye    a  la  Laguipierre  (1103) 

Blanchaille  frite  a  la  mode  de  Greenwich  (1310) 

RELEVE. 
Baron  de  boauf  a  la  St.  George  (1313)  Pommes  roties  (2771) 

ENTREES. 

Chapon  a  la  Regence  (1825)  Petits  pois  aux  laitues  braisees  (2746) 

Sorbet  Rebecca  (3528) 

ROT. 

Pigeonneaux  rotis  a  la  casserole  (2018)  Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 

ENTREMETS    DE   DOUCEUR. 

Plum  pudding  au  rhum  (chaud)  (3103) 

Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

Glaces  (3538)        Fruits  (3699)        Petits  fours  (3364)        Cafe  (3701) 


DINER  10  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANCAISE. 
MENU. 

DEUX   POTAGES. 


Le  Consomme  Balzac  (218) 


La  creme  de  haricots  flageolets  (259) 


DEUX   RELEVES   DE   POISSON. 

Les  filets  de  saumon  a  la  d'Artois  (1238)  La  Matelote  des  Canotiers  (1203) 

DEUX    GROSSES   PIECES. 

La  noix  de  veau  a  la  Duchesse  (1520)  Les  filets  de  poularde  a  la  Varsovienne  (2000) 


Les  ris  de  veau  a  la  Bussy  (1552) 
Les  petits  pates  au  jus  (2318) 


QUATRE    ENTREES. 

La  fricassee  de  poulet  au  kari  (1868) 

Les  boudins  de  kingfish  a  la  Poniatowski  (2220) 


DEUX  PLATS   DE   ROTS. 

Les  faisans  Anglais  (2107)  Les  sarcelles  (2068) 

DEUX  RELEVES  DU   ROTS. 

La  Charlotte  de  pommes  a  la  Destroy  (chaud)  (3007)    Les  (Eufs  a  la  creme  au  cafe  meringues  (3033) 

QUATRE   ENTREMETS. 

Les  epinards  a  1'Anglaise  (2823)  Les  concombres  panes  et  frits  (2732) 

Les  Buissons  de  meringues  (3212)  Les  peches  a  la  Louvoisienne  (3198) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  83 

MAL  305 

DINER,  100  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE. 

MENU. 

Lucines  orangees  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme1  Se'vigne'  (242) 

Bisque  de  crabes  orientale  (200) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  V6nitienne  (989) 

POISSONS. 

Saumon,  sauce  Marinade  (1245) 

Soles  a  la  Normande  (1274) 

Pommes  de  terre  Dauphine  (2783) 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  M61inet  (1452) 

Risot  a  la  Ristori  (2980) 


ENTREES. 

Poulet  saut6  a  la  Nantaise  (1896) 

Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise  (2743) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Piemontaise  (1563) 

Tomates  en  caisses  gratinees  (2839) 

Asperges  bouillies,  sauce  creme  (2692) 
Punch  a  la  Tosca  (3519) 


ROTS. 

Be'cassines  (2159) 

Pat<§  de  foies-gras  decoup^  (256?) 

Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 


ENTREMETS  STORES. 

Ponding  leger  aux  amandes  (3112) 

Gelee  aux  framboises  (3183) 

"Pieces  Montees  (3628) 
Glace  Plombiere  aux  cerises  (3485) 

Fruits  (3699)  Fromages  (3697)  Compote  (3686) 

Petits  fours  (3364)  Cafe  (3701) 


84  THE   EPICUREAN. 

306 
HAL 

DlNEE,  DE  16  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANQAISE. 

MENU. 

Premier  Service. 

Potage  Westmoreland  (357) 

Consomme  a  la  Daumont  (228) 
Redsnapper  a  la  Princesse  (1236) 

Selle  d'agneau  de  printemps  a  la  Chanceliere  (1739) 
Faisan  anglais  a  la  Montebello  (2108) 

Vol-au-vent  de  grenouilles  (2401) 

Pigeon  neau  a  la  Crispi  (2008) 

Cotelettes  de  filet  de  boeuf  Bienville  (2256) 

Timbales  des  Gourmets  (996) 
Pate  chand  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  McAllister  (2313) 


Deuxieme  Service. 

Mauviettes  roties  (2152) 

Chapon  roti  (1826) 
Gardens  a  la  demi-glace  (2710) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Pouding  a  la  Frankly n  (3098) 

Gateau  Mandarin  (3245) 

Charlotte  a  la  Russe  (3145) 

Gelee  Macedoine  au  Champagne  (3179? 


Troisieme  Service. 

Corbeilles  de  fruits  frais  (3699) 

Compotes  de  pommes  a  la  gele"e  (3686)  Bonbons  (3640)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Glace  creme  pralin'e  a  1'angelique  (3455) 
Glace  orange  a  1'eau  (3605) 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  85 

MAL  3O7 

D!NER,  DE  20  COUVERTS-SERVICE  1  LA  RUSSE. 
MENU. 

HORS-D'OEUVRE. 

Badis(808)  Olives  (800)  Caviar  (778)  Beurre  frais  moule*  (775 

Huitres  marinees  (802) 

Lucines  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Berry  (220)  Creme  de  concorabres,  Sheppard  (254) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Palmettes  de  jambon  a  1'Aquitaine  (927) 
Tirabales  a  la  Dumas  (965) 

POISSONS. 

Alose  Bruxelloise  (1253)  Saumon  a  la  Daumont  (1239) 

RELEVES. 

Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Chanceliere  (1739) 

Canetons  a  1'Andalouse  (1930) 

ENTREES. 

Ris  de  veau  a  FlScarlate  (1555)  Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Primatice  (1851) 

Foie  gras  de  Strasbourg  (2562)  Turban  de  homard  (2394) 

Punch  a  la  Favorite  (3508) 

B&rs. 
Pigeonneaux  (2018)  Poulardes  truffe'es  (1992) 

LEGUMES. 

Asperges  Comtesse  (2693)  Petits  pois  aux  laitues  braisees  (2746) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Charlotte  de  porames  (3008)  Beignets  d'ananas,  Singapour  (3046) 

Gelee  aux  mirabelles  (3187)  Bavarois  a  la  Vanille  (3135) 

FLANCS. 

Gateau  a  la  Reine  (3256)  Vaeherin  Sultane  (3264) 

DESSERT. 

Petits  fours  (3364)  Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653)  Fruit  conflts  (3679) 

Fruits  frais  (3699)  Compotes  de  pommes  a  la  gele"e  (3686) 


86  THE    EPICUREAN. 

MAL  308 

DI&ER,  DE  so  COUVERTS— SERVICE  1  UANGLAISE. 
MENU. 

POTAGES. 

fortue  verte  au  clair  (353) 

Creme  de  mals  a  la  Hermann  (255) 

POISSONS. 

Tranches  de  saumon  k  la  Moderne  (1242) 

Fricandeau  d'esturgeon  aux  petits  pois  (1288) 

RELEVES. 

Selle  d'agneau  k  la  Paganini  (1741) 

Pointe  de  culotte  de  boeuf  a  la  mode  bourgeoise  (1340) 

ENTREES. 

^pigrammes  d'agneau  &  la  Toulouse  (1694)  Quenelles  de  volatile  a  la  Richelieu  (2327) 

Rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour  (956)  Cotelettes  de  mouton  a  la  Taverne  (1592) 

Noix  de  veau  au  jus  lie"  (1521)  Noix  de  veau  au  jus  lie  (1521) 

Cotelettes  de  mouton  a  la  Taverne  (1592)  Rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour  (956) 

Quenelles  de  volaille  a  la  Richelieu  (2327)  Epigrammes  d'agneau  &  la  Toulouse  (1694) 

ROTS. 
Pigeonneaux  rotis  a  la  casserole  (2018)  Salmis  de  canetons  (1940) 

ENTREMETS. 

Asperges  sauce  Hollandaise  (2692)  Creme  de  homard  (2470) 

Mazarines  &  1'ananas  et  au  kirsch  (3053)  Gelee  macedoine  au  champagne  (3179) 

Cremes  frites  Pamela  (3013)  Cremes  frites  Pamela  (3013) 

Gele"e  macedoine  au  champagne  (3179)  Mazarines  a  1'ananas  (3653) 

Creme  de  homard  (2470)  Asperges  sauce  Hollandaise  (2692) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Le  moulin  a  vent  (3639)  Vases  en  sucre  file"  (3637) 

RELEVES. 

Gateau  Chamounix  (3235)  Jambon  au  supreme  (3255) 


OF    FARE. 


8? 


309  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  Celestine  (223) 

Remove 

Porgy  a  la  Manhattan  (1229) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Cackling  a  la  Grainville,  larded  (1933) 
Grenadins  of  beef,  Previllot  (1391) 

Sweet  peppers  sauted  (2769) 
Oyster  plant  a  la  poulette  (2817 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
"Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 
Countess  pudding  (3097) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 
Nuts  and  raisins 
Dessert 


31O  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Lazagnette  (339) 

Remove 

Fried  brook  trout  (1299) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entrees 

Shoulder  of  lamb  a  la  Dessaix  (1749) 
Salpicon  of  chicken,  baked  (2338) 

Artichoke  bottoms  with  marrow  (2687) 
Turnips  with  bechamel  (2848) 

Roast 

Duckling  (1938) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Rice  with  apples  (3115) 

Burnt  almond  ice  cream  with  Angelica  (3455) 

Dessert 


311  MAY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crawfish  (201) 

Side  Dish 
Turbigo  patties  (941) 

Fish 

Brook  trout,  Miller  style  (1295) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Pullet,  ancient  style  (1984) 
Carrots,  Colbert  (2711) 

Entrees 
Blanquette  of  breast  of  veal  a  la  Jacquart 

(1490) 
Stuffed  cos-lettuce  a  la  Rudini  (2816) 

Escalops  of  tenderloin  of  beef  with  truffles 

(2276) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

Pargny  punch  (3514) 

Roast 
Turkey  (2028) 

Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Figaro  timbale  (3123) 

Cold  Entremets 

Strawberry,  Charlotte  (3146) 

(Iced)  Parfait  with  coffee  (3479) 

Dessert 


312  MAY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Montorgueil  (326) 

Side  Dish 
Isabella  mousseline  (912) 

Fish 

Flounders  a  la  Joinville  (1155) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Travers  (1460) 
Stuffed  cabbage  ballotine  (2705) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Giralda  (1676) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Reynal  (2756) 

Vol-au-vent  of  frogs  and  soubise  eggs  (2401' 
Andalouse  sherbet  (3522) 

Roast 

Squabs  f2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Apple  pain  with  vanilla  (2997) 

Cold  Entremets 

(IcfcJ)  Mousse  with  chestnuts  (3477) 
Dessert 


88 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


313  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PEESONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Barch,  Polish  style  (286) 
Remove 

Mackerel,  arrowroot  mayonnaise  sauce  (1803) 
Cucumbers  (2661) 

Entries 

Duckling  a  la  Lyonnaise  (1934) 

Minions  of    fillets    of  veal  with  mushrooms 

(1510) 

Green  peas  with  lettuce  (2746) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Montglas  (2679) 

Roast 

Ptarmigan  (2072) 
Mace"doine  salad  (2650) 

Hot  Entremets 
Pudding  souffl6  with  hazelnuts  (3114) 

(Iced)  Eice  with  citron  garnished  with  truffles 

(3457) 
Dessert 


31-4  MAY. 

DINNEE,  8  TO  10  PEESONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  asparagus,  croutons  souffle's  (248) 

Remove 

Angel  fish  a  la  Bahama  (1094) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Entrees 

Broiled  rack  of  lamb,  Castillane  sauce  (1733) 
Chicken  fricassee  a  la  favorite  (1864) 

Carrots  stewed  with  cream  (2714) 
Head  of  asparagus,  Countess  style  (2693) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Brioches  St.  Mark  (3006) 

Vanilla  ice  cream  (3458) 
Dessert 


315  MAY. 

DINNEE,  16  TO  20  PEESONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Monteille  (325) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Duchesse  (964) 

Fish 

Brook  trout  a  la  Hussarde  (1293) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Bien  venue  (1445) 
Glazed  turnips  (2847) 

Entrees 
Breast  of  chicken  with  cucumbers  (1860) 

Lamb  sweetbreads  a  la  financiere  (1760) 
Carrots,  Viennese  (2713) 

Punch  Elizabeth  (3507) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Plutnerey  pudding  (3104) 

Cold  Entremets. 

Bain-marie  cream  molded  (3149.) 

(Iced)  Spongade  a  la  Me"dicis  (3536) 

Dessert 


316  MAY. 

DINNEE,  16  TO  20  PEESONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme,  Dubarry  (229) 

Side  Dish 
Bressoles  of  fat  liver  (848) 

Fish 

Pompano  a  la  Toulouse  (1227) 
Mashed  potatoes  (2798) 

Remove 

Squabs  a  la  Crispi  (2008) 
Fried  hops  (2748) 

Entries 

Timbale  of  sweetbreads,  modern  style  (2388) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Breast  of  chicken  a  la  Cussy  (1838) 
Mushrooms  in  cases  with  Madeira  (2762) 

Venetian  sherbet  (3529) 

Roast 

Turkey  (2028) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Eice  pudding  a  la  Bagration  (3105) 

Cold  Entremets 

Cream  Flamri  (3167) 

(Iced)  Souffle  a  1' Alcazar  (3533) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


89 


317  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crabs  (198) 

Remove 

Porgy  a  la  Manhattan  (1229) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Entrees 

Tenderloin  steak  with  mushrooms  (1427) 
Asparagus  tips  a  la  Maintenon  (2695) 

Lobster  a  la  Duglere"  (1031) 
Risot  Francatelli  (2979) 

Roast 

Ptarmigan  (2072) 
Cabbage  salad  (2659) 

Hot  Entremets 
Grenades  with  cherries  (3052) 

(Iced)  Biscuit  pudding  (3488) 

Fresh  fruits  (3699) 

Cheese  (3697) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Bonbons  (3640) 

Dessert 


318  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bragance  (290) 

Remove 

.    Halibut  a  la  Kadgiori  (1170) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 


Leg  of  lamb  a  la  Bercy  (1705) 
Lettuce  braised  with  gravy  (2754) 

Breast  of  pigeons,  Hunter's  style  (1963) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Roast 
Pullet  with  water-cress  (1996) 

Hot  Entremets 

Apple  "  pain  "  with  vanilla  (2997) 

Chocolate  ice  cream  (3449) 

Dessert 


319  MAY. 

DINNER,    16  to  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Radishes  (808)  Fresh  butter  (775) 

Soup. 
Consomme  Duchess  (230) 

Side  Dish 
Chicken  quenelles  a  la  Richelieu  (2327) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  a  la  Bercy  (1101) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Rump  of  beef  a  la  Careme  (1338) 
Beets  with  butter  (2702) 

Entrees 

Cutlets  of  chicken  a  la  Adolph  Hardy  (2257) 
Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Financiere  (2396) 
Mephisto  sherbet  (3524) 

Roast 

Chicken  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 
Italian  salad  (2635) 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  pudding  with  strawberry  sauce  (3106) 

Ice  cream  corn  on  cob  (3547; 
dessert 


3  2O  MAY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 
Olives  (800)  Gherkins  (785) 

Soup 
Gumbo  with  soft  shell  crabs  (314) 

Side  Dish 
Croustades,  Perretti  (900) 

Fish 

Blueflsh  a  la  Barnave  (1117) 
Potatoes  with  melted  butter  (2790) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  steak  with  truffles  (1429) 
Eggplant  a  la  Duperret  (2735) 

Entrees 

Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Chevaliere  (1863) 
Cauliflower  fried  with  bread-crumbs  (2718) 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Giralda  (1676) 
Green  peas.  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Tremiere  punch  (3520) 

Roast 

Duckling  (1938) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Ferriere  pears  (3085) 

Pistachio  ice  cream  (3454) 

Dessert 


90 


TT1E    EPICUREAN. 


321  MAY. 

DINNER  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Gluten  (316) 

Remove 

Brook  trout,  Court-bouillon  (1298) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Breast  of  veal,  housekeeper's  style  (1493) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Young  pigeons,  English  style  (2014) 
Onions  with  soubise  sauce  (2764) 

Roast 

Ptarmigan  (2072) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mirabeau  crusts  with  fruits  (3025) 

(Iced)  Plombiere,  Bavanese  (3484) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Bonbons  (3642) 


4, 

323  MAT. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Crawfish  a  la  Renoinmee  (304) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Montgomery  (975) 

Fish 

Fillets  of  weakfish  a  la  Pontigny  (1309) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  with  chicory  and  souffled  sweet 
potatoes  (1356) 
Stuffed  peppers  (2768) 

Entrees 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Lorenzo  (1845) 
Oyster  plant  with  fine  herbs  (2817) 

Vol-au-vent,  ancient  style  (2398) 
Punch  Bouquetiere  (3503) 

Roast 

English  pheasant  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Baba  marsala  (3002) 

(Ices)  Fiori  di  latte  Bellini  (3467) 
Dessert 


322  MAY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  Balzac  (218) 

Remove 

Trout  a  la  Beaufort  (1290) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Entrees 

Duckling  fillets  a  la  macedoine  (1935) 
Parsnip  cakes  fried  in  butter  (2767) 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Victor  Hugo  (1689) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Manhattan  flawn  (3034) 

Bain-marie  cream  with  virgin  coffee  (3162) 

Dessert 
Assorted  salted  almonds  (3696) 

* 


324  MAY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Quenefes  (358) 

Side  Dish 
Patties  with  mushrooms  (937) 

Fish 

Baked  paupiettes  of  soles  a  1'Italienne  (1279) 
Broiled  potatoes  with  fried  bread  (2776) 

Remove 

Pullet  a  la  Arco  Valley  (1971) 

Cucumbers  breaded  and  fried,  English  style 

(2732) 

Entrees 
Minions    of  tenderloin    of    beef    with  cepes 

Bordelaise  (1408) 
Stuffed  green  peppers  (2768) 

Squabs  a  la  Vestale  (2022) 
Fried  asparagus  tips,  Miranda  (2696) 

Montmorency  punch  (3512) 

Roast 

Turkey  (2028) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Frascati  biscuit  (3004) 

(Iced)  Diplomate  pudding  (3491) 
Dessert 


jura 


BILLS  OF  FA:RE. 


DINER  DE  20  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  RU88IL 


MENU. 


Lucines  orangees  (803) 


91 


325 


POTAGES. 


Consomme  Careme  (222) 
Bisque  de  homard  Portland  (208) 


Amontillack 


HORS-D?(EUVRE. 

Attereaux  de  foies  gras  (838) 


Clicquot 


POISSON. 
Bluefish  Barnave  (1117) 


Pontet-Caner. 


RELEVE. 

Tranches  de  selle  d'agneau  puree  de  haricots  (1747* 

ENTREES. 

Timbales  de  pigeonneaux,  Berchoux  (2387) 
Homard  Rougemont  (1041) 

Punch  glace  a  laprunelle  (3510) 


St.  Piem 


ROTS. 


Canards  farcis   a  1'Americaine  (1920) 
Souffles  de  fromage  de  gruyere  (2985) 


LEGUMES. 

Asperges  sauce  hollandaise  (2692) 
Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 


ENTREMETS. 

Bananes  frites  sauce  cerises  (3003) 

Riz  aux  fraises  (3216) 

Dessert 


92  THE    EPICUREAN. 

JUIN  326 

DINER  DE  16  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE. 

MENU. 
Lucines  orangees  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Haut  Sauterne  Consomme  Antonelli  (217) 

Amontillado  Bisque  de  moules  a  la  Cutting  (209) 

Piesporter  Auslese  HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Brissotins  de  homard  a  Flndienne  (851) 

POISSONS. 

Kingfish  a  la  Sultane  (1185) 

Maquereaux  espagnols  aux  petits  pois  (1200) 
Salade  de  concombres  (2661) 

RELEVE. 

Pontet-Canet  Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Chanceliere  (1789) 

Aubergines  frites  (2739) 

ENTREES. 

Clicquot  doux  Poulets  aux  legumes  nouveaux  (1916) 

Petits  pois  a  PAnglaise  (2742) 

Pommery  Casseroles  de  ris  d'agneau  a  la  de  Luynes  (2238) 

Tomates  farcies  (2842) 

Tetes  d'asperges  en  petites  bottes  (2694) 

Sorbet  parfait  amour  (3526) 

ROTS. 

Nuits  Becassines  (2159) 

Pigeonneaux  au  cresson  (2018) 

FROID. 

Petits  aspics  de  foies-gras  (2412) 
Salade  de  laitue  (2672) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Beignets  de  cerises  (3042) 

Gele"e  aux  fruits  (3187) 

Pouding  Lafayette  (3208) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Oporto  Glace  Esmeralda  (3551) 

Liqueurs  Fruits  (3699) 

Petits  fours  (3364) 
Cafe"  (3701) 


.BI.LLS    OF    FARE.  93 

JUIN.  327 

DINER  DE  14   COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE. 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Careme  (222) 

Creme  de  patates  a  la  Girard  (265) 

POISSONS. 

Kingfish  a  la  Montgolfier  (1183) 

Saumon  a  1'Argentine  (1237) 

HORS-D'OEUVRE. 
Cassolettes  Montholon  (861) 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  d'Orleans  (1450) 

Chapon  a  la  Pondichery  (1824) 

ENTREES. 

B£cassines  saute"es  a  1'Africaine  (2153)  Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Bodisco  (1835) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Napolitaine  (1562)  Vol-au-vent  a  la  Financiere  (2396) 

Filets  de  volaille  a  la  Lucullus  (1846)  Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Clemence  (1673) 

Timbales  de  macaroni  (2988)  Pain  de  volaille  a  la  Villars  (2304) 

Pigeonneaux  a  la  Crispi  (2008)  Homard  a  la  Creole  (1029) 

BUFFET. 

C6tes  de  boeuf  roties  au  jus  (1331)  Selle  de  mouton  rotie  (1648) 

Haricots  maitre-d'hotel  (2829)  Choux  a  la  Paysanne  (2706) 

ROTS. 
Canetons  au  cresson  (1938)  Mesanges  moustache  (2152) 

RELEVES. 

Pouding  a  1'Italienne  (3101)  Cremes  frites  Pamela  (3013) 

FLANCS. 

Le  char  des  Cygnes  (3634)) 

La  Corbeille  garnie  de  fruits  en  sucre  tire  (3628) 

CONTRE  FLANCS. 

Gateau  ananas  (3252)  Nougatine  (3251) 

ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pois  a  la  Menagere  (2744)  Artichauts  a  la  Rachel  (2690) 

Gel<5e  a  la  rose  (3181)  Charlotte  a  la  Metternich  (3144) 

Pain  de  fraises  a  la  creme  (3197)  Tarte  a  la  Rhubarbe  (3204) 
Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Fromage  (3697)  Cafe  (3701) 


94  THE    EPICUREAN. 

JUIN..  328 

4 
'4 


MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Comus  (226) 

Benoiton  (288) 

HOUS-D'CEUVRE. 
Bouche'es  a  la  Heine  (938) 

RELEVES. 

tfaumon  de  Kennebec  a  la  d'Artois  (1238) 

Filet  de  boeuf  au  Chasseur  (1462) 

ENTREES. 

Oaneton  aux  cepes  (1922) 

Pate"  chaud  de  foies  gras  a  l-'Alsacienne  (2316) 

Chaudfroid  de  poulet  a  la  Clara  Morris  (2451) 
Aspic  de  homard  (2414) 

Sorbet  Tremttre  (3520) 

ROTS. 

Becassines  (2159) 

Selle  d'agneau  de  lait  (1743) 

ENTREMETS. 

Asperges  sauce  creme  (2692) 

Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise  (2743) 

Croutes  de  bananes  a  la  Panama  (3023) 

Blanc  manger  a  la  Smolenska  (8138) 

DESSERT. 

Pieces  montees  (3628) 

Glaces,  Cartes  surprise  (3549) 
Fruits  frais  (3699) 

Petits  fours  biscuits  aux  noisettes  (3368) 
Fromages  varies  (3697) 
Cafe  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


95 


329  JUNE. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  carrots  a  la  Crecy  (268) 

Remove 

..rout  a  la  Beaufort  (1290) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Entrees 

Calves'  tongues,  Perigueux  (1584) 
Stuffed  artichoke  bottoms  (2684) 

Timbales  of  fillets  of  soles  a  la  Gauloise  (2384) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot   Entremets 
Portuguese  apples  (2998) 

Cold  Entremets 

Spanish  custard  cream  (3152) 

Dessert 


* 

331  JUNK. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Plumerey  (238) 

Side  Dish 
Celestines  with  foies-gras  (862) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  a  la^Conti  (1102) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 

Pullet,  Egyptian  style,  broiled  (1986) 
Turnips,  Spanish  sauce  (2848) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Signora  (1686) 
String  beans  with  butter  (2829) 

Larks  with  rice  (2084) 
Asparagus,  Hollandaise  sauce  (2692) 

Bouquetiere  punch  (3503) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Meringued  pancakes,  Rossini  (3073) 

Plombiere  a  la  Richmond  (3481) 
Dessert 


33O  JUNE. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  lobster  a  la  Cambridge  (207) 

Remove 

Fresh  mackerel  fillets,  Bonnefoy  (1191) 
Broiled  potatoes  (2776) 

Entries 

Beef  tongue,  macedoine  (1470) 
Rice,  Manhattan  style  (2977) 

Squab  cutlets  a  la  Perigueux  (2267) 
Tomatoes  Trevise  (2836) 

Roast 
Pheasants  adorned   with  their  own  plumage 

(2107) 
Cabbage  salad  (2659) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  with  burnt  almonds  (3000) 

Mossaganem  (3192) 
Dessert 


332  JUNE. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  lobsters  (205) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  with  red  beef  tongue  (990) 

Fish 

Salmon  a  la  Bearnaise  (1244) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 
Tenderloin  of  beef  braised  with  roots  (1461) 

Entrees 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Patti  (1850) 
Sweet  peppers  sauted  (2769) 

Mutton  cutlets  a  la  Savary  (1597) 

Beet  fritters  a  la  Dickens  (2702) 

Californian  sherbet  (3523) 

Roast 

Ducklings  a  I1  Andalouse  (1930) 
"Water  cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 

Tyrolian  pudding  (3111) 

Strawberry  ice  cream  (3438) 

Dessert 


96 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


333  JUNE. 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 

Tagliarelli  (339) 
Remove 

Pompano  a  la  Anthelme  (1220) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Chicken  sauted,  Portuguese  style  (1898) 
Fried  eggplants  (2739) 

Artichoke    bottoms    and    cauliflower    baked 

(2685) 

Roast 

Turkey  (2028) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Rice  croquettes  with  oranges,  raspberry  sauce 
(3018) 

Surprise  bananas  (3541) 
Dessert 


334  JUNE. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Mullagatawny,  Indian  style  (327) 

Remove 

Kingfish  a  la  Princelay  (1184) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Shoulder  of  lamb  with  cucumbers  (1751) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Border  of  risot,  Valenciennes  (2212) 

Roast 

Duckling  (1938) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Alliance  fritters  (3036) 

Ice  cream,  Malakoff  (3150) 
Dessert 


335  JUNE. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Sevigne  (242) 

Side  Dish 
Croustades  Perretti  (900) 

Fish 

Trout  cooked  in  court  bouillon  (1298) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Montebello  (1454) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Rivera  (2758) 

Entrees 
Sweetbreads,  Piedmontese  style  (1563) 

Potato  and  truffle  salad  in  border  (2655) 
Kirsch punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Crescents  of  noodles  with  cherries  (3015) 

(Ices)  Caramel  bouchees  (3543) 
Dessert 


336  JUNE. 

DINNER,    8   TO   10   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crawfish  a  la  bateliere  (202) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales,  Mentana  (974) 

Fish 

Bluefish.  Havanese  style  (1118) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Lamb  minion  fillets,  cream  sauce  (1724) 
Eggplant  in  cases  a  la  Morton  (2736) 

Entrees 
Tournedos  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Marietta 

(1435) 
Carrots  glazed  with  fine  herbs  (2712) 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Nesle  (2397) 
Maraschino  punch  (3510) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Fried  cream  Pamela  (3013) 

(Ices)  Tortoni  cups  (3584) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    IFAHIC. 


97 


337  JUNE. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Manioca  (316) 

Remove 

Brook  trout  a  la  Cambace'res  (1291) 
Baked  potatoes  (2798) 

Entries 

Loin  of  veal  a  la  Saintonge  (1536) 
Okra  with  barley  croustades  (2763) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Marengo  (1893) 
Rice  croquettes  with  salpicon  (2952) 

Roast 


Hot  Entremets 
Apple  fritters,  Montagnard   (3037) 

Ice  cream  a  la  Cialdini  (3445) 
Dessert 


4, 

339  JUNE. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup. 
Bisque  of  mussels  a  la  Cutting  (209) 

Side  Dish 
Rissolettes  a  la  Renan  (957) 

Fish 

Flounders,  Genlis  style  (1154) 
Cucumbers,  English  style  (2661) 

Remove 

Rump  of  beef,  Greek  style  (1342) 
Potatoes  with  artichokes  and  truffles  (2805) 

Entries 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Chevreuse  (1827) 
Boquillon  tomatoes  (2833) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Princess  (1565) 
Asparagus  tips  a  la  Maintenon  (2695) 

Siberian  punch  (3516) 

Roast 

Duckling  (1938) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Savarin  with  apricots  (3117) 

Rice  ice  cream,  paradise  (3456) 
Dessert 


338  JUNE 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup. 
Chartreuse  (297) 

Remove 

Kingfish  a  la  Bordelaise  (1181) 
Cucumbers  (2661) 

Entries 

Shoulder  of  mutton  with  potatoes  (1652) 
Macaroni  a  la  Cavalotti  (2964) 

Squabs  a  la  Vestal  (2022) 
Braised  onions  (2765) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Frangipane  pie  with  marrow  (3088) 

(Iced)  Fiori  di  latte  almond  milk  (3469) 
Dessert 


34O  JUNE 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Benoiton  (288) 

Side  Dish 
Canelons  of  palate  of  beef  (858) 

Fish 

Sheepshead  bechamel  (1257) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Remove 

Loin  of  veal  with  gravy  (1537) 
Eggplant  in  cases  a  la  Morton  (2736) 

Entrees 

Grenades  of  chicken  a  la  Ritti  (1871) 
Fried  cucumbers  (2732) 

Lobster  a  la  Paul  Bert  (1038) 
Californian  sherbet  (3523) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Crust  with  cherries  (3024) 

Ceylon  with  coffee  ice  cream  (3545) 
Dessert 


98 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


34:1  JUNE. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pmree  of  potatoes  a  la  Ben  ton  (278) 

Remove 
Sea  bass  a  la  Villeroi  (1099) 

Entrees 

Qrenadins  of  beef  with  round  potatoes,  Valois 

sauce  (1393) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Jussienne  (2678) 

Vol-au-vent  of  salmon  trout  a  la  Regence 

(2408) 

Roast 

Duckling  (1938) 
Macedoine  salad  (2650) 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  border  with  bananas  (3005) 

Cream  with  cherries  (3154) 
Dessert 

'I'          


34=2  JUNE 

DINNER,    8  TO   10   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bennett  (287) 

Remove 

Spanish  mackerel  a  la  Viennet  (1197) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  lamb,  onion  puree  (1716) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Gibbons  (2841) 

Breasts  of  squab  a  la  Duxelle,  stuffed  (2019) 
Spinach  a  la  Noailles  (2821) 

Roast 

Turkey  (2028) 
Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Hot  Entremets 
Strawberry  fritters  (3049) 

Rhubarb  pie  (3204) 
Dessert 


34:3  JUNE. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Laguipierre  (236) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Beaumarchais  (960) 

Fish 
Brook  trout,  Montagnarde  (1296) 

Remove 

Chateaubriand,  Colbert  sauce  (1381) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Montebello  (1560) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Sandford  (1899) 
Fried  asparagus  a  la  Miranda  (2696) 

Elizabeth  punch  (3507) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Italian  salad  (2635) 

Hot  Entremets 
Strawberry  souffle  (3122) 

(Ice)  Lemons  in  surprise  (3557) 
Dessert 


34r4r  JUNE 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Cream  of  artichokes,  Morlaisienne  (246) 

Side  Dish 
Capon  croquettes  a  la  Royale  (876) 

Fish 

Bass  a  la  Conti  (1102) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef,  Indian  style  (1463) 
Beets  with  cream  (2702) 

Entries 

Pigeons,  monarch  style  (1964) 
Asparagus  tips  with  cheese  (2697) 

Small  croustades  of  sweetbreads  (2251) 
Cauliflower  a  la  Villeroi  (2716) 

Mephisto  sherbet  (3524) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Munich  with  peaches  (3055) 

(Ice)  Italian  mousse  (3475) 
Dessert 


BILLS  OF  FA:RE.  99 

JTIILLET. 

DINER  DE  24  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE.  34:5 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Britannia  (221) 

Bisque  de  crevettes  a  la  Veragua  (211) 

POISSON. 
Saumon  sauce  marinade  (1245) 

GROSSES  PIECES. 

Selle  d'agneau  rotie  au  jus  (1746) 

Jambon  roti  a  la  broche  sauce  madere  (1789) 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  poulet  a  la  Clarence  (2258) 

Noisettes  de  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Rossini  (1417) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Princesse  (1565) 

Caisses  de  pigeonneaux  Umberto  (2234) 

ROTS. 

Canetons  au  cresson  (1938) 

Perdreaux  anglais  grilles  (2085) 

RELEVES. 

Compiegue  au  sabayon  (3009) 

Creme  frite  Pamela  (3013) 

ENTREMETS. 

Mais  bouilli  en  tiges  (2730) 

Fonds  d'artichauts  bechamel  a  la  creme  gratings  (2686) 
Moscovite  aux  fraises  (3191) 

Pouding  glace  a  la  Fleury  (3493) 

Punch  a  la  Siberienne  (3516) 

BUFFET. 

Consomme"  semoule  (316)  Longe  de  veau  au  jus  (1537) 

Noix  de  bcauf  salee  Ecarlate  a  1'Anglaise  (1316) 
Chouxfleurs  au  fromage  gratines  (2717)  Haricots  verts  etuve's  (2828) 

Cantaloup  (799) 


100  THE    EPICUREAN. 

JUILLET.  346 

D!NER  DE  ie  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  UAMERICAINE. 


MENU. 


POTAGES. 

Consomm6  Andalouse  (216) 

Creme  de  mais  Mendocino  (256) 


HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Rislori  (982) 

POISSON. 

Kingfish  a  la  Bella  (1180) 

Pommes  de  terre  fondantes  (2799) 

Salade  de  concombres  (2661) 

RELEVE. 

Double  d'agneau  garni  de  croquettes  de  pommes  (1736) 

Tomates  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Valerri  (1856) 

Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise  (2743) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  St.  Cloud  (1566) 

Haricots  verts  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Punch  a  la  Beatrice  (3502) 

ROT. 

Pigeonneaux  (2018) 

Salade  de  romaine  (2675) 

ENTREMETS  DE   DOUCEUR. 

Gelle  macedoine  au  champagne  (3179) 

Bavarois  aux  framboises  (3134) 

Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  framboise*e  (3223) 

Glaces  Manchons  Dejazet  (3567) 

Fruits  (3699)  Bonbons  (3640)  Petits  fours  (3364)  Devises  (3653) 

Cafe  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


101 


34:7  JULY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Macaroni  (339). 

Remove 

Pompano  a  la  Potentini  (1225) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Entries 

Roast  duck  with  cherries  (1923) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Columbus  (1553) 
Glazed  turnips  (2847) 

Roast 

Leg  of  lamb  with  gravy  (1715) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Savarin  with  apricots  (3117) 

Renaissance  pudding  (3210) 
Dessert 


349  JULY. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  printanier  with  quenelles  (239) 

Side  Dish 
Mousseline  a  la  Waleski  (916) 

Fish 

Pike  perch,  Continental  style  (1218) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Beef  tongue  a  la  Soligny  (1468) 
Stuffed  onions  (2766) 

Entries 

Duckling  a  la  Bordelaise  (1931) 
Cauliflower  with  fine  herbs  (2716) 

Mayonnaise  of  chicken  (2625) 
Champagne  punch  (3504) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Souffles  with  raspberries  (3122) 

(Iced)  Romanoff  pudding  (3497) 
Dessert 


34r8  JULY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Mussels  a  la  Vigo  (328) 

Remove 

Baked  kingfish  (1186) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Entries 

Calf  ears,  tomato  sauce  (1505) 
Stuffed  green  peppers  (2768) 

Stewed  pigeons  (1967) 
Sauted  mushrooms  a  la  Dumas  (2757) 

Roast 

Ptarmigan  (2072) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Pancakes  with  orange-flower  water  (3078) 

White  coffee  ice  cream  (3460) 
Dessert 


35  O  JULY. 

DINNER  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  peas,  St.  Germain  (260) 

Side  Dish 
Cromesquis  of  bass  870) 

Fish 

Small  lobster,  Bordelaise  (1026) 

Remove 

Glazed  pullet  a  la  printauiere  (1980) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entries 

Sweetbreads,  English  style  (1571) 
Sauted  sweet  peppers  (2769) 

Beef  palate  tourte,  Parisian  style  (2390) 
Parfait  amour  sherbet  (3526) 

Roast 

Ducklings  (1938) 
"Water-cress  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 
Cream  with  apples  (3014) 

(Iced)  Plombiere,  Havanese  style  (3484) 
Dessert 


102 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


351  JULY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Clear  mock  turtle  (354) 

Remove 

Spanish  mackerel  with  crawfish  (1198) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Entries 

Loin  of  lamb  with  sauted  tomatoes  (1718) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Mornay  (2680) 

Timbale  of  sweetbreads,  modern  (2388) 

Roast 

Tame  ducks  a  la  Siebrecht  (1919) 
Cos-lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Brioche  fritters  with  sabayon  (3040) 

(Iced)  Bomb,  Fifth  avenue  (3440) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


JULY. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cold,  Russian  style  (302) 

Remove 
Bluefish  in  papers  (1120) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  lamb,  green  sauce  (1706) 
Breaded  fried  cucumbers  (2732) 

Chickens  sauted  a  la  Madeleine  (1891) 

Beet  fritters  a  la  Dickens  (2702) 

Italian  salad  (2635) 

Roast 

Stuffed  squabs,  American  style  (2012) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
De"jazet  pancakes  (3172) 

Melon  water-ice  (3603) 
Dessert 


353  JULY. 

DINNER,   12  TO  16  PERSONS 
MENU. 

Soup 
Lamb  sweetbreads,  German  style  (320) 

Side  Dish 
Mousselines  Isabella  (912) 

Fish 

Codfish,  Norwegian  style  (1137) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  de  Lesseps  (1352) 
Eggplant  a  la  Robertson  (2737) 

Entries 

Squabs  with  Colbert  sauce  (2013) 
Sauted  string  beans  (2829) 

Timbale  of  Gnocquis  a  la  Choiseul  (2987) 
Paradise  sherbet  (3525) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Hot  Entremets 
Crusts  with  bananas  a  la  Panama  (3023) 

Rice  with  apricots  (3214) 
Dessert 


354-  JULY. 

DINNER,  12  TO  16  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pure"e  of  peas  with  croutons  (282) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales.  Perigordine  (979) 

Fish 

Porgies  a  la  Manhattan  (1229^ 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Degrange  (1351) 
Cauliflower  with  fried  bread  crumbs  (2718) 

Entrees 

Duck  with  cepes  (1922) 
Succotash  (2731) 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Perigueux  (1683) 
Glazed  cucumbers  (2733) 

Imperial  punch  (3509) 

Roast 

Chicken  (1881) 
White  cabbage  salad  (2659) 

Hot  Entremets 
Croustade  of  Venice  meringued  (3020) 

(Ice)  Cherry  Plombiere  (3485) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  103 

AOtT  355 

DlNER  DE  30  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE, 


MENU. 

Lucines  orange"es  (803) 

POTAGE. 
Consomme1  Antonelli  (217) 

HORS-D'<EUVRE. 

Palmettes  Primatice  (923) 

POISSON. 

Bass  raye"   a  la  Long  Branch  (1104) 

Pommes  de  terre  duchesse  (2785) 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Godard  (1451) 

Concombres  a  la  Villeroi  (2732) 

ENTREES. 

Ponlet  saute"  a  la  Finnoise  (1889) 

Petits  pois  Fleurette  (2741) 

Ris  de  veau  Zurich  (1579) 

Haricots  de  Lima  maitre-d'h6tel  (2699> 

Punch  it  la  Romaine  (3515) 


Selle  de  Chevreuil  (2194) 

Salade  de  celeri  mayonnaise  (2660) 


ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

trending  souffle  aux  amandes  pralinees  (3113) 

Gateau  Chamounix  (3235) 
Gelee  aux  fruits  (3187) 
Glaces  Variees 
Dessert 


104  THE    EPICUREAN. 

356 

.  ,       % 

DINER  DE  10  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSK 

MENU. 
Lucines  (803) 

POTAGE. 

Consomme1  Bariatenski  (219) 

HOBS-D'(EUVBE. 

Coulibiac  u  la  Russe  (908) 

POISSON. 
Grouper  a  la  Franklyn  (1162) 

RELEVE. 

SeUe  d'agneau  a  la  Chanceliere  (1739) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  ponlet  a  la  Beranger  (1834) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  La  Valliere  (1557) 

Punch  &  la  Romaine  (3515) 

ROT. 
Pigeonneaux  (2018) 

ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pois  a  la  Franchise  (2743) 

Beignets  de  Cerises  (3042) 

Cornets  a  la  creme  a  1'orange  (3148) 
DESSERT. 

Pieces  montees  ou  corbeilles  de  fleurs  (3G28) 
Compotes  (8686)  Fruits  frais  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

PETIT  BUFFET. 

Jtfr&s,  Absinthe,  Vermuth,  Kiimmel 

Caviar  (778)  Olives  farcies  (801) 

Tartelettes  nonpareil  (825) 
Canape's  de  homard  (777)  Crevettes  en  raviers  ou  en  bateaux  (819) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


105 


357  AUGUST 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Chamberlain  (295) 

Remove 

Pike  perch  a  la  Financiere  (1214) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Catalane  (1671) 
Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Chicken  sauted  with  fine  herbs  (1907) 
Lima  beans  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Semolina  croquettes,  pistachio  sauce  (3019) 
(Iced)  Semiramis  mousse  (3471) 

* 


AUGUST 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Sorrel,  Flemish  style  (347) 

Remove 

Black  bass  with  sweet  peppers  (1097) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Entries 

Stuffed  shoulder  of  lamb  with  glazed  vegeta- 
bles (1752) 

Squab  fritters,  Oporto  sauce  (2020) 
TrSvise  tomatoes  (2836) 

Roast 

Pheasant  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Venetian  meringued  croustade  (3020) 

Cialdini  ice  cream  (3445) 


359  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  Guinea  fowl  a  la  Washburn  (279) 

Side  Dish 
Att&eaux  of  chicken  a  la  d'Antin  (837) 

Fish 

Pompano  Mazarin  (1224) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Remove 

Pullet  minion  fillets  a  la  Montpensier  (1999) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Trevise  (2836) 

Entries 

Lamb  cutlets,  Giralda  (1676) 
Artichoke  bottoms,  soubise  (2681) 

Woodcock  hash  in  a  croustade  with  soft  eggs 
(2302) 

Rebecca  sherbet  (3528) 

Roast 

Saddle  of  venison  (2194) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Spanish  pudding  (3110) 

Mushrooms,  ice  cream  (3568) 
Dessert 


360  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bragance  (290) 

Side  Dish 
Bondons  of  pickerel,  Walton  (844) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  a  la  Rouennaise  (1108) 

Broiled  potatoes   with   fried  bread   raspings 

(2776) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  with  calf's  brain  patties  (1355) 
Stuffed  green  peppers  (2768) 

Entries 

Fillet  of  Guinea  fowl  a  la  Gaillardet  (1957) 
Carrots  with  cream  (2714) 

Frog  legs  a  la  Royer  (1023) 
,      Nenuphar  punch  (3513) 


Hot  Entremets 
Pudding,  Scotch  style  (3108) 

(Iced)  Parfait  with  nougat  (3478) 
Dessert 


106 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


361  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cabbage  (292) 

Remove 

Salmon,  Daumont  (1239) 
Gastronome  potatoes  (2789) 

Entrees 

Noisettes  of  mutton  a  la  Provengal  (1611) 
Carrots,  Colbert  (2711) 

Chicken  vol-au-vent  with  mushrooms  (2399) 

Roast 

Partridges  (2102) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Golden  crusts  (3021) 

Cherries  with  cream  (3154) 
Dessert 


4, 

363  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  crawfish  a  la  Humboldt  (203) 

Side  Dish 
Scotch  Timbales  (985) 

Fish 

Sheepshead,  Buena  Vista,  (1259) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  truffles  (1429) 
Eggplant,  Duperret  (2735) 

Entries 

Duckling,  peasant  style  (1939) 

Glazed  and  larded  sweetbreads  with  cepes, 

Bordelaise  (1574) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 


SQ2  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Spaghetti  (339) 

Remove 

Pike  perch  a  la  Royale  (1216) 
Potato  cakes  with  ham  (2779) 

Entrees 

Grenadins  of  beef,  Marc  Aurele  (1389) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Broiled  pullet,  tartar  sauce  (1991) 
Breaded  and  fried  cucumbers  (2732) 

Russian  salad  (2645) 

Roast 
Reedbirds  (2152) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mirlitons  of  pears  a  la  Bienvenue  (3054) 

Ice  cream  with  black  coffee  (3463) 
Dessert 


Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Crusts  with  pineapple  and  apricot  sauce  (3022) 

Sicilian  ice  cream  (3579) 
Dessert 


364:  AUGUST. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Florentine  (232) 

Side  Dish 
Patties,  Queen  style  (938) 

Fish 

Salmon  a  la  Victoria  (1243) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Young  turkey  with  turnips  (2043) 
Baked  artichoke  bottoms  bechamel  (2686) 

Entrees 

Sweetbreads  studded,  Spanish  style  (1577) 
Stuffed  peppers  (2768) 

Fillet  of  sole  tourte  a  la  Financiere  (2392) 

Pdquerette  sherbet  (3527) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Fried  cream,  Maintenon  (3010) 

(Iced)  Souffle  Alcazar  (3533) 
Dessert 


BILLS  OF  FA:RE.  107 

SEPTEMBER  365 

DlNER  DE  18  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERIOAINE. 

MENU. 
Lucines  orangees  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  a  la  creme  de  faisan  (227) 

Tortue  verte  liee  (858) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Bressoles  de  foies  gras  (848) 


RELEVES. 

Bass  raye"   gratin6  an  vin  blanc  (1113) 

Pommes  marquise  (2797) 

Cuissot  de  chevretul  a  la  Francatelli  (2183) 

Laitues  braisues  an  jus  (2754) 


ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  ponlet  an  supreme  (1858) 

Petits  pois  a  la  Parisienne  (2745) 

Timbale  de  homard  a  la  d'Aumale  (2385) 

Haricots  verts  Bourguignonne  (2826) 

Punch  a  la  Favorite  (3508) 

ROT. 

Perdreaux  sauce  au  pain  (2102) 


FROID. 

Aspics  de  foies  gras  (2411) 

Salade  de  laitues  (2672) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Pommes  a  la  Nelson  (2991) 

Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  framboisee  (3223) 
Gelee  aux  fruits  et  au  kirscb  (3187)  Pieces  months  (3628) 

Glace  Bacchus  (3590)  Le  puits  (3591) 

Dessert  (3701) 


108  THE    EPICUREAN. 

SEPTEMBRK  366 

D!NER  DE  200  OOUVERTS— A  LA  RUSSE. 

MENU. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE  FBOIDS. 

JSstomacs  d'oie  fume's  (833)  Hareng  diable  (777)  Jambon  de  Westphalie  (786) 

Melon  cantaloup  (799) 
Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Franklyn  (233)  Bisque  d'ecrevisses  Persigny  (204) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE  CHAUDS. 

Timbales  a  la  Benton  (961)  Croquettes  de  brochet  a  la  Romaine  (890) 

POISSONS. 
Halibut  a  1'Amiral  (1167)  Eperlans  Gondoliere  (1266) 

RELEVES. 

Baron  d'agneau  tardif  a  la  de  Rivas  (1661)  Dinde  a  la  Francaise  (2029) 

ENTREES. 

Quenelles  de  t&ras  a  la  Londonderry  (2332) 

Casseroles  de  ris  d'agneau  a  la  de  Luynes  (2238) 

Chaudfroid  de  becassines  en  buisson  (2461) 

Salade  de  homard  a  1'Ame'ricaine  (2638) 

ROTS. 
Pintades  piquees  garnies  de  leur  plumages  (1956)  Selle  de  Chevreuil  (2194) 

LEGUMES. 

Chicoree  a  la  creme  (2729)  Choux  de  Bruxelles  sautes  (2704) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Ananas  Caroline  (3090) 

Gelee  d'oranges  en  tasses  (3180) 

Bavarois  en  surprise  (3133) 

FLANCS. 
Gateau  Chamounix  (3235)  Baba  au  Marsala  (3002) 

DESSERT. 

Pieces  montees  (8628)  Compotes  (3686) 

Petits  fours  (3364)  Fromages  (3697) 

Devises  (3653)  Glaces  variees  (3538) 

Fruits  frais  (3699)  Bonbons  (3642) 

Amandes  salees  (3696) 
Cafe  et  liqueurs  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  10S 

SEPTEMBRE.  367 

DtNER  DE  20  COUVERTS— SERVICE  1  L'ANGLAISE. 


MENU. 


2   POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Britannia  (221) 

Bisque  de  homard  (205) 


2  POISSONS. 

Maquereau  Espagnol  a  la  Perigord  (1196) 

Sheepshead  au  court  bouillon  (1262) 

2  RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boauf  Kothschild  (1457) 

Selle  de  mouton  a  1'Allemande  (1645) 

4  ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Genin  (1843) 

Cepes  farcis  (2726) 
Palais  de  veau  &  la  Sevigne"  (1539) 

Haricots  verts  sautes  (2829) 

Noisettes  de  chevreuil  a  la  Thierry  (2196) 

Croutes  aux  champignons  (2759) 

Souffle's  de  homard  (2363) 


2  ROTS. 

Oie  a  la  Royer  (1946) 

Vanneaux  a  la  Dumanoir  (2122) 

2  RELEVES. 

Omelette  fourre'e  aux  fraises  (3068) 

St.  Honore"  Sultane  (8261) 

4  ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pofe  &  la  Frangaise  (2743)  Timbale  Nantaise  (2381) 

Oroutes  dories  (8021)  Rhubarbe  a  la  creme  (3204) 

BUFFET. 

Paillettes  au  fromage  (823) 

Marcassin  sauce  marinade  garni  de  cotelettes  et  poitrine  (2049) 
Jambon  roti  sauce  Madere  (1789) 

Langnes  de  boeuf  a  la  Romaine  (1467) 

Epinards  bouillis  (2823) 


THE    EPICUREAN. 

SEPTEMBRE.  368 

DtNEE  DE  18  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANQA1SE.  S 

MENU. 
Huitres  (803) 

HORS-D'OEUVRE  FROIDS. 

Articbauts  poivrade  (773)  Olives  farcies  aux  anchois  (801)  Boeuf  fume  (822) 

Canape's  d'e"crevisses  (777)  Corniclions  (785)  Tlion  marine  (831; 

POTAGES. 
Consomme"  Colbert  aux  oeufs  poches  (225)  Creme  de  riz  Cremieux  (249) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 
Timbales  Lagardere  (970) 

RELEVES. 
Bass  raye"e  Maintenon  (1105)  Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Richelieu  Moderne  (1456) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Lorenzo  (1845) 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Talma  (1687) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Marsilly  (1559) 

Filet  de  tetras  a  la  Tzarine  (2073) 

ENTREES  FR01DES   SUh  SOCLES. 

Aspic  de  poularde  a  la  Cussy  (2418) 

Pate  de  foies  gras  de  Strasbourg  (2564) 

INTERMEDE. 

Sorbet  Californienne  (3523) 

ROTS. 

Dinde  truffle  garnie  d'olives  noires  (2031) 

Becassines  anglaises  au  cresson  (2159) 

ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pois  Parisienne  (2745)  Choux  de  Bruxelles  sautes  (2704) 

Gel^e  a  la  rose  (3181)  Charlotte  de  pommes  a  la  Destrey  (3007) 

GROS  GATEAUX. 

Vacherin  (3264)        Nougatine  (3251) 

DESSERT. 

Fruits  (3699)  Compotes  (3686)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Cafe"  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


Ill 


369  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Monteille  (325) 
Remove 

Blackfish  a  la  Orly  (1114) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Squabs,  English  style  (2014) 
Tomatoes,  Provengal  (2835) 

Veal  tongue,  Flemish  style  (1583) 
Fried  oyster  plant  (2817) 

Roast 

Snipe  (2159) 
Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 

Golden  Lion  flawn  (3035) 
Iced  biscuit,  Diplomate  (3435) 

Stewed  fruits  (3686) 
Coffee  (3701) 


37O  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  chicory,  Evers  (258) 

Remove 

Kingfish,  Bateliere  a  179) 
Mashed  potatoes  ^2798) 

Entries 

Pullet  a  la  Arco  Valley  (1971) 
Red  cabbage,  Montargis  (2707) 

Paupiettes  of  beef  with  fine  herbs  (1421) 
Lima  beans,  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 


Larded  partridges  with  gravy  and  water-cress 

(2102) 

Hot  Entremets 
Light  pancakes  with  jams  (3079) 

(Iced)  Bomb  Fifth  avenue  (3440) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert 


* 

371  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  squash  (263) 

Side  Dish 
Small  patties,  Victoria  (942) 

Fish 

Halibut  a  la  Coligny  (1168) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 

Beef  tenderloin  a  la  printaniere  (1464) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Entrees 

Partridge  fillets  a  la  Veron  (2089) 
Artichoke  bottoms  with  cauliflower  (2685) 

Reedbird  patty  (2312) 
Elizabeth  punch  (3507) 

Roast 

Saddle  of  venison  (2194) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Apricots  with  rice  a  la  Jefferson  (3001) 

Pineapple  water  ice  (3606) 
Dessert 


372  SEPTEMBER 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Paterson  (340) 

Side  Dish 
Eissoles  of  crawfish,  Beatrice  (949) 

Fish 

Striped  bass,  Bercy  (1101) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Haunch  of  roebuck  a  la  Bouchard  (2178) 
Fried  artichokes  (2683) 

Entrees 

Guinea  fowl  writh  sauerkraut  (1958) 
Broiled  potatoes  (2776) 

Braised  and  stuffed  woodcock  (2209) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Paradise  sherltet  (3525) 

Roast 

Blackhead  ducks  (2052) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  a  la  Nelson  (2991) 

Bavarian  cream  with  chocolate  (3131) 

(Iced)  Cavour  pudding  (3489) 

Dessert 


112 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


373  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSON& 
MENU. 

Soup 
Croute  au  pot  (305) 

Remove 

Fresh  mackerel  maitre-d'hotel  (1193) 
Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Entries 

Grenadins  of  beef  with  potatoes,  Valois  sauce 

(1393) 
Saute"d  string  beans  (2829) 

Timbale  of  noodles,  Milanese  (2988) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Macedoine  (2650) 

Hot  Entremets 
Souffle  fritters,  M<§dicis  (3047) 

Biscuit  glace,  Diploraate  (3435) 
Dessert 


375  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  10  TO  14  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Macaronicelli  (339) 

Side  Dish 
Kulibiac  Smolenska  (909) 

Fish 

Flounders,  Dieppoise  (1153) 
Cucumber  salad  (2661)  ' 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Thieblin  (1354) 
Straw  potatoes  (2792) 

Entries 

Fillets  of  partridges  a  la  Ve"ron  (2089) 
Marrow  squash  with  parmesan  (2824) 

Breasts  of  woodcock  a  la  Houston  (2201) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

GolgorousM  punch  (3506) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  (2055) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Peach  fritters,  Maraschino  (3039) 

(Iced)  Timbales,  Algerian  style  (3580) 
Dessert 


374r  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Purge  of  wild  duck,  Van  Buren  (283) 

Remove 

Fresh  codfish,  egg  sauce  (1139) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  lamb  with  carrots  (1714) 
Stuffed  artichoke  bottoms  (2684) 

Woodcock  stewed  a  la  Dumas  (2199) 
Beets  sauted  in  butter  (2702) 

Roast 

Chicken  in  the  pan  (1881) 
Tomato  salad  (2666) 

Hot  Entremets 
Custard  cream  with  apples  (3014) 

Caramel  ice  cream  (3447) 
Dessert 


376  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  10  TO  14  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  lobster  a  la  Benoist  (206) 

Side  Dish 
Andalusian  patties  (934) 

Fish 

Salmon  trout,  Antoinette  (1302) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Remove 

Hind  saddle  of  lamb,  Chanceliere  (1739) 
Lima  bean  succotash  (2731) 

Entrees 

Fillets  of  canvasback  with  orange  juice  (2058) 
Green  peas  with  braised  lettuce  (2746) 

Breasts  of  chicken,  Princiere  (1852) 
Sauted  sweet  peppers  (2769) 

American  sherbet  (3521) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Peaches  a  la  Conde  (3081) 

(Iced)  Plombiere  Rochambeau  (3482) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


113 


377  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Pure"e  of  plovers  &  la  The"o  (271) 

Remove 

Blackfish  a  la  Villaret  (1116) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Entrees 

Gosling  stewed  with  turnips  (1954) 
String  beans  Bourguignonne  (2826) 

Beef  palates  a  la  Bechamel  (1326) 
Fried  eggplants  (2739) 

Roast ' 

Reedbirds  (2152) 
Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 

Chestnut  croquettes  (3017) 

Cold  Entremets 

Waffle  buckets  with  cream  (3128) 
Fresh  fruits  (3699) 


378  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSON& 
MENU. 

Soup 
Mock  turtle  (355) 

Remove 

Pike  perch,  Russian  style  (1217) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Quarter  of  lamb  with  stuffed  tomatoes  (1781) 
Carrots,  cream  sauce  (2714) 

Venison  grenadins  a  la  royale  (2195) 
Spinach,  Rougemont  (2822) 

Roast 

Young  pigeons  stuffed  (2018) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Madeira  crusts  (3026) 

Peach  ice  cream  a  la  Herbster  (3453) 
Dessert 


379  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Florence  snow  (339) 

Side  Dish 
Richmond  mousseline  (914) 

Fish 

Aiguillettes  of  bass  with  oyster  crabs  (1096) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Haunch  of  venison  a  la  Lytton  (2179) 
Stuffed  tomatoes,  Trevise  (2836) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets,  Giralda  (1676) 
Lima  beans,  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 

Baked  snipe  (2156) 
Rebecca  sherbet  (3528) 

Roast 

Grouse,  bread  sauce  (2072) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  with  apples  (3115) 

(Iced)  Serano  pudding  (3498) 
Dessert 


38O  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,    16  to  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup. 
Pure"e  of  chicken  a  la  Reine  (270) 

Side  Dish 
Bateaux  of  fat  liver,  Russian  style  (843) 

Fish 

Salmon,  Genevoise  (1246) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Ribs  of  beef,  Hindostan  (1330) 
Cabbage,  peasant  style  (2706) 

Entries 

Chicken  saute"d,  Maryland  C1894) 
Peas  with  minced  lettuce  (2747) 

Border  of  risot,  Valenciennes  (2212) 
Champagne  punch  (3504) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Romaine  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mazarine  with  pineapples  (3053) 

Plombiere  d'Alengon  (3483) 
Dessert 


114 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


381  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Partridge  a  la  Royale  (338) 
Muskmelon  (799) 

Remove 

Sea  bass  a  la  Villeroi  (1099) 
Cucumber  salad  (2662) 

Entrees 

Veal  cutlets  a  la  Zingara  (1498) 
Celeriac  knobs,  Mirabeau  (2722) 

Lobster  a  la  Gambetta  (1033) 

Roast 

Chicken  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 
Escarole  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Benvenuto  pudding  (3092) 

Brazil  nuts  ice  cream  (3464) 
Dessert 


SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oysters  with  powdered  okra  (336) 

Remove 

Salmon  a  1'Argentine  (1237) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entrees 

Chicken  sauted,  Parisian  style  (1904) 
Carrots  with  cream  (2714) 

Mushrooms  mousserons  a  la  Reynal  (2756) 
Roast 

Mallard  ducks  (2059) 
Dandelion  salad  (2670) 

Hot  Entremets 
Mellow  pudding,  apricot  sauce  (3094) 

St.  Jacques  cups  (3560) 


383  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Piire"e  of  grouse  a  la  Manhattan  (272) 

Side  Dish 
Cocks'  kidneys,  Villeroi  (864) 

Fish 

Kingfish  fillets,  Valenfiay  (2528) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Beef  tenderloin,  Solohub  (1459) 
Eggplant,  Duperret  (2735) 

Entrees 

Pullet  with  oysters  (1994) 
Cauliflower,  white  sauce  (2719) 

Vol-au-vent  Financiere  (2396) 
Pargny  punch  (3514) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peaches  a  la  Colbert  (3080) 

Bomb  with  printanier  fruits  (3441) 
Dessert 


3Q4-  SEPTEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Cream  of  cauliflower  a  la  Brisson  (251) 

Side  Dish 
Small  patties  with  shrimps  (935) 

Fish 

Turbot  remoulade  sauce  (2613) 
Potato  cakes  (2778) 

Remove 

Braised  breast  of  veal  a  la  Bourdaloue  (1487) 
Glazed  turnips  (2847) 

Entrees 

Venison  cutlets,  Parisian  tomato  sauce  (2174) 
Stuffed  cucumbers  (2734) 

Fillets  of  partridge  a  la  Veron  (2089) 
Artichoke  bottoms,  fried  (2683) 

Venetian  sherbet  (3529) 

Roast 

English  snipe  (2159) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Cream  of  rice  fritters  (3043) 

(Iced)  Italian  mousse  (3475) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  115 

OCTOBRE.  385 

DINER  DE  24   COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE. 


MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomm6  Franklyn  (233) 

Tortue  verte  (353) 

POISSONS. 

Carpe  a  la  Charabord  (1129) 

Filets  de  soles  a  la  Marguery  (1273) 

RELEVES. 

Selle  de  venaison  pane"e  aux  cerises  noires  (2192) 

Dindonneau  pique"  roti  puree  d'artichauts  (2042) 

ENTREES. 

Boudins  de  volaille  a  la  Soubise  (2215) 

Mauviettes  a  la  marechale  (2081) 

Att6reaux  de  palais  de  boauf  (836) 

Petits  vol-au-vent  a  la  Lucini  (2404) 

FROID. 

Mousselines  de  foies  gras  a  la  Dana  (2535) 

Chaudfroid  de  perdreaux  a  la  Beatrice  (2455) 


ROTS. 
Canetons  a  la  Rouennaise  (1937) 

RELEVES. 
Petites  omelettes  a  la  Ce"lestine  (3056) 

ENTREMETS. 


Courlis  (2051) 


Pommes  en  surprise  (29y&) 


Laitues  farcies  demi-glace  (2753)  Haricots  verts  au  beurre  (2829) 

Fonds  d'artichauts,  Montglas  (2679)  Salade  Italienne  (2635) 

Gelee  Tunisienne  rubane"e  (3184)  Pouding  Saxonne  (3107) 

Flan  a  la  Manhattan  (3034)  Gaufres  Brisselets  creme  a  la  framboise  (3223) 


BUFFET. 


Aloyau  boeuf  roti  (1346)  Quartier  de  mouton  aux  pommes  Gastronome  (1642) 

Moelle  sur  croutes  grilles  (1319)          Salade  a  la  Parisienne  (2644) 
Compotes  (3686)  Tarte  a  la  creme  (3201) 

Consomme  semoule  (316) 


116  THE    EPICUREAN. 

OCTOBRE. 

DfNER  DE  26  COUVERTS— SERVICE  1  LA  FRANQAISE. 

MENU. 

HORS-D'OSUVRE. 

Caviar  (778)  Radis  (808)  Anchois  (772)  Olives  (800) 

Huitres  et  citrons  (803) 

2  POTAGES. 
Consomme"  a  la  Royale  (241)  Puree  de  levraut   St.  James  (274) 

2   HORS-D'tEUVRE    CHAUDS. 

Timbales  a  la  Talleyrand  (988) 

Rissoles  de  palais  de  bceuf  (952) 

2  RELEVES. 

Bass  raye"   aux  fines  herbes  (1112) 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Bayonnaise  (1443) 

4   ENTREES  CHAUDES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  I'lmpe'ratrice  (1841) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  parisienne  (1576) 

Pate  chaud  de  becasses  (2319) 

Cotelettes  de  faisan  Reginald  (2262) 

2  FLANCS. 
Pate"  de  foies  gras  de'coupg  (2563)  Ballotines  de  cailles  a  la  Tivollier  (2426) 

Punch  a  la  Montmorency  (3512) 

2   ROTS. 

Selle  d'antilope  sauce  aigrelette  (2190) 

Poularde  au  cresson  (1996) 

2  PLATS  VOLANTS. 

Souffle"  au  parmesan  (2983)        Tartelettes  de  creme  au  fromage  (765) 

4    ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pois  a  TAnglaise  (2742)  Tomates  en  caisses  gratine'es  (2839) 

Croutes  aux  poires  a  la  Douglas  (3028)  Pouding  Castellane  (3206) 

2  FLANCS. 
Gateau  Breton  (3232)  Marechal  Key  (3189) 

Glace  bombe  aux  fruits  printaniere  (3441)        Ananas  en  surprise  (3595) 

Assiettes  monte"es  de  bonbons  (3642)  Compotes  (3686)  Fruits  (3699) 

4  Tambours  garnis  de  petits  fours  et  macarons  (3364). 
Dessert. 


BIJL.LS    OF    FARE.  117 

OCTOBRE.  387 

DlNER  DE  20  COU VERTS —SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSE 

(Service  par  10) 

MENU. 
20  Plats  d'huitres  et  citrons  (803) 

2  POTAGES. 

1  Soupiere  de  Brunoise  aux  quenelles  (291) 

1  Soupiere  de  puree  de  canards  sauvages,  Van  Bnren  (383) 

2  HORS-D'OEUVRE  CHAUDS. 

2  Timbales  Montgomery  (975) 

2  POISSONS. 

1  Pompano  a  la  Mazarin  (1224) 

1  Cabillaud  a  la  Duxelle  au  gratin  (1136) 

2  RELEVES. 
2  Dindes  cloutees  a  la  Sartiges  (2027) 

4  ENTREES. 

1  Epigrammes  de  chevreuil  sauce  marinade  aux  truffes  (2176) 
1  Ris  de  veau  a  la  Maltaise  (1558) 

1  Aspic  de  foies  gras  (2411) 

1  Cotelettes  de  homard  Lowery  (2476) 

Punch  Tremtere  (3520) 

2  ROTS. 

1  Brasses  sur  canapes  a  la  Perigord  (2205) 

1  Cochon  de  lait  farci  et  roti  a  la  broche  (1810) 

2  LEGUMES. 

1  Celeri  sauce  Mirabeau  (2722) 

1  Petits  pois  aux  laitues  braise"es  (2746) 

4   ENTREMETS. 

1  Pommes  a  la  Portugaise  (2998) 

1  Munich  aux  peches  (3055) 

1  Buisson  de  meringues  (3212) 

1  Gele*e  aux  violettes  (3186) 

2  FLANCS. 

1  Gateau  Mille  feuilles  Pompadour  (3247) 

1  Gateau  Napolitain  (3250) 
Dessert. 


118  THE    E  FIGURE  AN. 

OCTOBRE.  388 

DINER  DE  50  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERICAINE. 


MENU. 


Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Oonsomm6  Duchesse  (230) 

Bisque  d'e"crevisses  (201) 

HORS-D'(EUVEE. 

Timbales  a  la  Rothschild  (983) 

POISSONS. 

Sheepshead  Bourguignonne  (1258) 

Plie  a  la  Jules  Janin  (1156) 

RELEVES. 

Selle  de  chevreuil  a  la  sauce  au  vin  d'Oporto  et  ge!6e  de  groseille  (2193) 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  Jussienne  (2678) 

ENTREES. 

Tournedos  de  filet  de  boeuf  aux  haricots  verts  (1440) 
Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Marceau  (1847) 

Petits  pois  Parisienne  (2745) 

Caisses  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  Grammont  (2235) 
Tomates  Trevise  (2836) 

Coquilles  de  truffes  bechamel  au  gratin  (2844) 

Sorbet  Californienne  (3523) 

ROT. 

Perdreaux  (2102) 

FROID. 

Terrine  de  pluviers  et  mauviettes  (2601) 

Salade  de  laitues  (2672) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Mazarine  a  1'ananas  au  kirsch  (3053) 

Gel6e  a  1'orange  en  tasses  (3180) 

Nid  garni  d'reufs  (3594) 

Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

Pouding  a  la  Waddington  (3500) 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Cafe"  (3701) 


BIJL.LS    OF    FAHE. 


119 


g@9  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Pickled  oysters  (802) 

Soup 
Gumbo  with  hard  crabs,  Creole  style  (313) 

Remove 

Sheepshead  a  la  Bourguignonne  (1258) 
Potato  cakes  (2779) 

Entrees 

Beef  tongue  a  la  Romaine  (1467) 
Boiled  onions,  Hollandaise  sauce  (2764) 

Paupiettes  of  hare  with  stuffed  olives  (2080) 
Carrots,  cream  sauce  (2714) 

Roast 

Keedbirds  (2152) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Compiegne  cake  with  sabayon  (3009) 

(Iced)  Caramel  bouchees  (3543) 
Dessert 


39  O  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Calf's  tail,  Rundell  (294) 

Remove 

Smelts  a  la  Norfolk  (1267) 
Broiled  potatoes  (2776) 

Entrees 

Eoebuck  fillets  a  la  Lorenzo  (2177) 
Noodles  a  la  Lauer  (2970) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  d'Antin  (1885) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot   Entremets 
Custard  cream  of  chestnut  caramel  (3012) 

Peach  ice  cream  a  la  Herbster  (3453) 


391  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Barley  with  celery  (285) 

Side  Dish 
Fat  liver  croquettes,  Dauphine  (885) 

Fish 

Sole  a  la  Normande  (1274) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Turkey  a  la  Chipolata,  stuffed  (2024) 
Sauted  Brussels  sprouts  (2704) 

Entrees 

Palate  of  beef  in  tortue  (1328) 
Fried  eggplant  (2739) 

Plover  a  la  Stoughton  (2115) 
Oriental  rice  (2978) 

.  Andalusian  sherbet  (3522) 

Roast 

Saddle  of  venison  (2194) 
Escarole  salad  (2671) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peaches  a  la  Stevens  (3084) 

(Iced)  Rabbit  in  surprise  (3596) 
Dessert 


39  2  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Montorgueil  (326) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Marly  (973) 

Fish 

Redsnapper  a  la  Demidoff  (1234) 
Mellow  potatoes  (2799) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  venison  a  la  Morton  (2188) 
Baked  tomatoes  (2837) 

Entries 

Pullet  a  la  Mornay  (1977) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Salmis  of  woodcock  a  la  Sanford  (2208) 
Fried  celery  (2064) 

Nenuphar  punch  (3513) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks (2063) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peaches,  Richelieu  (3083) 

(Iced)  Sicilian  pudding  (3499) 
Dessert 


120 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


393  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oysters,  French  style  (335) 

Remove 

Frostfish,  Cherbourg  style  (1159) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Entrees 

Rump  of  beef,  modern  style  (1345) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Dumas  (1888) 
Baked  stuffed  tomatoes  (2837) 

Roast 

Leg  of  mutton  on  the  spit  (1633) 
Romaine  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Baba  Marsala  (3002) 

La  Grandina  ice  cream  (3556) 
Dessert 


* 

395  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup. 
Cream  of  rice  a  la  Cremieux  (249) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  of  partridge  a  la  Waddington  (955) 

Fish 

Striped  bass,  Rouen  style  (1108) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Remove 
Saddle    of    venison    larded    aigrelette    sauce 

(2190) 
Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Florence  (2677) 

Entrees 

Chicken    sauted,  point  du  jour  (1902) 
Fedelini  Cardinal  (2953) 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Nesle  (2397; 
Young  America  sherbet  (3530) 

Roast 

Partridges  (2102) 
Chicory  salad  (2668) 

Hot  Entremets 
Pudding  a  la  de  Freese  (3099) 

(Ices)  Hen  and  chicks  (3594) 
Dessert. 


394r  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup. 
Puree  of  woodcock  a  la  Theo  (271) 

Remote 

Flounders  a  la  Madeleine  (115*7) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Chipolata  (1625) 
Parsnip  cakes  fried  in  butter  (2767) 

Pigeons  garnished  with  Montglas  cases  (1962) 
Green  peas  with  shedded  lettuce  (2747) 

Roast 

Mallard  ducks  (2059) 
Water-cress  salad  (2676> 

Hot  Entremets 
Orange  fritters  a  la  Talleyrand  (3045) 

(Cold)  Printaniere  crown  (3158) 
Dessert 


396  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pur6e  of  partridge  a  la  d'Henin  (276) 

Side  Dish 
Imperial  timbales  (968) 

Fish 

Fresh  codfish,  Norwegian  style  (1137) 
Snow  potatoes  (2798) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Perrin  (1353) 
Oyster  plant  with  fine  herbs  (2817) 


Pullet  a  la  Villars  (1982) 
Mushrooms  with  cream  (2761) 

Lamb  cutlets,  Giralda  (1676) 
Baked  tomatoes  (2837) 

Tosca  punch  (3519) 

Roast 

English  snipe  (2159) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  a  la  Giudici  (2990) 

Charlotte  Corday  ice  cream  (3546) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


121 


397  OCTOBEE. 

DINNER,   8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  wild  squabs,  Waleski  (277) 


Carp  a  la  Chambord  (1129) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Entrees 

Snipe  a  1'Africaine  (2153) 
Cauliflower  with  fine  herbs  (2716) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Bourguignonne  (1884) 
Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Knob  celeriac  fritters  (3041) 

(Iced)  Diplomate  biscuits  (3435) 
Dessert 


398  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,    8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Chicken  and  leeks  (298) 

Remove 

Buffalo  fish  a  la  Bavaroise  (1125) 
»     Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Entrees 

Roast  goose  a  la  Thieblin  (1947) 
Macaroni  with  cream  and  truffles  (2962) 

Mutton  cutlets  with  cucumbers  (1603) 
Fried  eggplant  (2739) 

Roast 

Plovers  (2119) 
Cucumber  salad  (2661) 

Hot  Entremets 
Crusts  of  pears,  Douglas  (3028) 

Mousse  of  fruits  with  pineapple  (3474) 
Dessert 


399  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Pure"e  of  wild  turkey,  Sartiges  (284) 

Side  Dish 
Mousseline  of  woodcock  (918) 

Fish 

Blackfish  a  la  San  ford  (1115) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Suckling  pig  a  la  Piedmontese  (1809) 
Noodles  a  la  Lauer  (2970) 

Entries 

Pullet  a  la  Seymour  (1981) 
Glazed  endives  (2740) 

English  snipe  in  papers  (2158) 
Andalouse  sherbet  (3522) 

Roast 

Canvasback  ducks  (2055) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  with  praslin  (3000) 

Leona  ice  cream  (3558) 
Dessert 


4rOO  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Side  Dish 
Palmettes  of  pullet  a  la  Clinton  (930) 

Fish 

Spotted  fish,  green  ravigote  sauce  (1286) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Remove 

Roast  goose,  German  style  (1 948) 
Braised  onions  (2765) 

Entries 

Grenadins  of  beef  with  celery  bechamel  (1392) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Cases  of  thrushes  a  la  Diana  (2237) 
Tomatoes  Tr<§vise  (2836) 

Montmorency  punch  (3512) 

Roast 

Partridges  (2102) 
Water-cress  and  apple  salad  (2676) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peach  pudding,  Cleveland  (3102) 

Burnt  almond  Angelica  ice  cream  (3455) 
Dessert 


122 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


4-01  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oxtail  a  la  Soyer  (332) 

Remove 

Baked  finnan  baddies  (1166) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

.Entrees 

Turkey  wings  with  celery  and  chestnuts  (2039) 
Fried  oyster  plant  (281 7) 

Slices  of  kernel  of  venison  in  papers  (2182) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Roast 

Partridges  with  gravy  (2102) 
Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

Hot  Entremets 

Pancakes  a  la  Dejazet  (3072) 
(Ice)  Fiori  di  latte  with  violettes  (3470) 
Dessert 


•fr      4:02  OCTOBER. 

DINNER  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Spanish  Oilla  (349) 

Remove 

Salmon  a  la  moderne  (1242) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Entrees 

Boiled  chicken,  English  style  (1912) 
Lima  beans,  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 

Grenadins  of  mutton,  poivrade  sauce  (1609) 
Red  cabbage,  Montargis  (2707) 

Remove 

English  snipe  (2159) 
Romaine  salad  (2675) 

Hot  Entremets 
Timbale  Figaro  (3123) 

Andalusian  ice  cream  (3446) 
Dessert 

4* 


4rO3  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  artichokes,  Morlaisienne  (246) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  of  fat  liver  a  la  Ude  (951) 

Fish 

Spanish  mackerel  a  la  Viennet  (1197) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  venison  a  la  MacMahon  (2187) 
Macaroni,  Parisian  style  (2961) 

Entrees 

Plovers  a  la  Montauban  (2114) 
Tomatoes,  Provencal  style  (2835) 

Boudins  of  chicken  au  Cardinal  (2216) 
Mushrooms,  under  bells  (2761) 

Californian  sherbet  (3523) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Celery  salad  (2660) 

Hot  Entremets 
Tyrolian  pudding  (3111) 

(Iced)  Montesquieu  plombiere  (3480) 
Dessert 


4r04r  OCTOBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  lobster  a  la  Portland  (208) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Marly  (973) 

Fish 

Soles  a  la  Lutece  (1272) 
Potatoes  with  melted  butter  (2790) 

Remove 

Pullet  a  la  Mornay  (1977) 
Fried  artichoke  bottoms  (2683) 

Entrees 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Clementine  (1673) 
String  beans  a  la  Bourguignonne  (2826) 

Breasts  of  woodcock  a  la  Vatel  (2203) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Tre'miere  punch  (3520; 

Roast 

Blackhead  ducks  (2052) 
Dandelion  salad  (2670) 

Hot  Entremets 

Apples  a  la  Nelson  (2991) 

Poupelins  (3091) 

(Iced)  Romanoff  pudding  (3497) 
Dessert 


BIJL.LS    OF    FARE.  123 

NOVEMBRE.  4-O5 

DfNER  DE  24  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANQAISE. 

MENU. 

2  POTAGES. 

Consomme"  aux  nids  d'hirondelles  (244) 

Tortue  verte  li<§e  (353) 

2  RELEVES  DE  POISSON. 

Bass  ray 6*  a  la  Rouennaise  (1108) 

Crabes  d'huitres  frits  (1005) 

2  GROSSES  PIECES. 

Baron  de  mouton  au  four  a  la  puree  de  pommes  (1650) 
Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Montebello  (1454) 

8    ENTREES. 

iiles  de  poulet  a  la  Chiselhurst  (1837) 
Terrapene  a  la  Baltimore  (1083) 

Ris  de  veau  au  chancelier  (1569) 

Pate  chaud  de  foies  gras  a  1'Alsacienne  (2316) 
Poularde  braise"e  Demidoff  (1973) 

Pain  de  lapereau  a  la  Maintenon  (2308) 

Filets  de  becasses  a  la  Diane  (2200) 

Salade  de  homard  a  rAme*ricaine  (2638) 

2  PLATS  DE  ROTS. 

Canards  ruddy  (2066) 

Chapon  au  cresson  (1826) 

8  ENTREMETS. 

Petits  pois  Parisienne  (2745)  Celeri  a  la  moelle  (2721) 

Fonds  d'artichauts  Florence  (2677)  Choux  de  Bruxelles  Baronne  (2703) 

Pouding  souffle  Saxonne  (3107)  Glace  asperges  sauce  au  marasquin  (3540) 

Gelee  au  kirsch  (3187)  Bavarois  au  cnocolat  (3131) 

2  GROSSES  PIECES  D'ENTREMETS. 

La  hotte  &  la  Denivelle  (3636) 

Le  Char  des  Cygnes  (3634) 

Dessert. 


124  THE    EPICUREAN. 

NOVEMBRE.  4,06 

DINER  DE  25  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE. 


MENU. 


Premier  Service. 

2  POTAGES. 

Consomme  Charmel  (224)        Creme  d'orge  Viennoise  (249) 

2  POISSONS. 
Sheepshead  sauce  Cardinal  (1261)        Sandre  a  la  Durance  (1213) 

2  RELEVES. 
Selle  de  mouton  rotie  (1648)        Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Cauchoise  (1446) 

6   ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Cussy  (1838)  7ilets  de  pluvier  a  la  Victor  Hugo  (2117) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Maltaise  (1558)  Timbales  de  levraut  (2389) 

Mignons  de  chevreuil  a  la  Lorenzo  (2177)  Cotelettes  de  tetras  a  la  Segard  (2259) 

2  FLANCS. 
Brissotins  de  volaille  au  supreme  (849)         Mousseline  au  Cardinal  (910) 

Deuxieme  Service. 

2  ROTS. 

Canards  a  tete  rouge  (2063)  Poulet  a  la  casserole  (1881) 

6  ENTREMETS. 

C&eri  a  la  moelle  (2721)  Haricots  verts  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Beignets  d'ananas  Singapour  (3046)  Creme  de  marrons  au  caramel  (3012) 

Bordure  Caroline  au  champagne  (3140)  Gele"e  aux  fruits  (3187) 

2  RELEVES. 

Glaces  Cantaloup  en  surprise  (3591)  Biscuit  a  THernani  (3228) 

Dessert. 

BUFFET. 

Rosbif  d'Aloyau  a  PAnglaise  (1846)  Pommes  de  terre  grillees  (2776) 

Salade  de  laitues  (2672)  Noix  de  boeuf  salee  a  1'ecarlate  (1316) 

Potage  au  riz  a  la  Rudini  (343) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


125 


NOVEMBRE. 


4O7 


DINER  DE  40  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSE. 
MENU. 


BUFFET   SEPARE. 


Sherry,  Bitters,  Canapes  d'anchois  (777)  Radis  (808)  Olives  (800) 

Kummel,  Vermouth,  Celeri  en  branches  (779) 


Absinthe 
Haiti  Sauterne 

Zeres 


Johannisberg 


Nuits 


Leoville 


Champagne 
Ruinart 


Chdteau  Margaux 


Lunel 
Liqueurs 


Saumon  fume  (822)        Caviar  (778)        Concombres  (2661) 
Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Britannia  (221) 

Bisque  de  crabes  (198) 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Attereaux  a  la  Piemontaise  (840) 

Timbale  mosaique  (976) 

POISSONS. 

Fletan  a  la  Richmond  (1169) 

Redsnapper  a  la  Crequy  (1233) 

RELEVES. 

Chapon  a  la  Financiere  (1823) 

Selle  de  mouton  a  la  Duchesse  (1644) 

ENTREES. 

Cailles  farcies  aux  champignons  (2134) 

Cotelettes  de  chevreuil  a  la  Buridan  (2170) 

Quenelles  de  volaille  a  la  Drew  (2326) 

Filets  de  t<§tras  a  la  Tzarine  (2073) 

ROTS. 

Dinde  truffee  (2031) 

Becasses  sur  canapes  (2206) 

LEGUMES 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  Montglas  (2679) 

Choux  de  Bruxelles  a  la  Baronne  (2708) 

ENTREMETS. 

Beignets  de  brioche  a  la  creme  Sabayon  (3040) 

Mirlitons  de  poires  Bienvenue  (3054) 
Gele"e  a  la  Russe  (3182) 

Bombe  Romaine  (3442) 
Dessert 


126 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBRE  408 

DlNER  DE  16  COUVEKTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERIOAINE. 


MENU. 


Sherry,  Bitters, 

Vermouth 


Huitres  (803) 


Amontillado 


POTAGES. 


Consomme"  a  la  Noailles  (237) 

Puree  de  chapon  Jussienne  (267) 


HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Irving  (969) 


Zeltinger 


POISSON. 


Soles  a  la  Rochelaise  (1276) 

Pommes  de  terre,  persillade  (2774) 


RELEVE. 


Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Montebello  (1454) 

Quartiers  d'artichauts  a  la  Villeroi  (2688) 


St.  Julien 


ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  mouton  aux  laitues  braisees  (1601) 
Macaroni  Brignoli  (2958) 

Becassines  a  la  Waleski  (2155) 

Petits  pois  a  la  Parisienne  (2745) 
Quenelles  de  foies  gras  fourrees  a  la  financiere  (2331) 


Punch  a  la  Stanley  (3518) 


BataiUy 


ROTS. 


Sarcelles  (2068) 

Cailles  (2131) 

Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 


Royal  Charter 
Liqueurs 


ENTREMETS   DE  DOUCEUR. 


Croutes  de  poires  a  la  Douglas  (3028) 

Pouding  de  riz  k  1'Imperial  (3494) 

Petits  fours  (3364)  Fromages  (3697)  Fruits  (3699) 

Cafe  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


127 


4-09  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oxtail  a  la  Soyer  (332) 

Remove 

Pompano  a  la  Potentini  (1225) 
Cucumbers  (2661) 

Entries 

Round  buttock  top  of  beef,  smothered  (1834) 
Potatoes  a  la  Parmentier  (2811) 

Pullet  a  la  Zingara  (1983) 
Brussels  sprouts,  baroness  (2703) 

Roast 

Hare  backs  with  cream  (2076) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Celeriac  fritters  (3041) 

farfait  with  almonds  (3478) 
Dessert 


4rlO  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Oysters,  American  style  (338) 

Remove 

Striped  bass  with  fine  herbs  (1112) 
Potato  fritters  (2788) 

Entries 

Rump  of  beef  a  la  Jardiniere  (1343) 
Noodles  a  la  Lauer  (2970) 

Duck  paupiettes  with  risot  (1928) 
Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833) 

Roast 

Plovers  (2119) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Eice  croquettes  with  orange  raspberry  sauce 

(3018) 

(Ice)   Mousse  of  fruits  with  pineapple  (3474) 
Dessert 


4:11  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  with  Lasagnettes  (339) 

Side  Dish 
Mousseline  of  woodcock  (918) 

Fish 

Halibut  a  la  Richmond  (1169) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  venison  a  la  gastronome  (2191) 
Cauliflower  with  fine  herbs  (2716) 

Entrees 

Duckling  a  la  Bourguignonne,  fried  (1982) 
Glazed  endives  (2740) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Marsilly  (1559) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Stanley  punch  (3518) 

Roast 

Plovers  (2119) 
Fondu  with  Piedmontese  truffles  (2954) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  with  burnt  almonds  (3000) 

(Icel    Mokabelle  (3565) 
Dessert 


4: 1 2  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Cream  of  lettuce  a  la  Evers  (258) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettos  a  la  Pe"rier  (922) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  a  la  Whitney  (1109) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Kernel  of  veal  with  half  glaze  (1522) 
Stuffed  cucumbers  (2734) 

Entrees 

Fillets  of  partridge  a  la  Lucullus  (2088) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Maryland  (1894) 
Eggplants  in  cases  a  la  Morton  (2736) 

Venetian  sherbet  (3529) 

Roast 

Saddle  of  venison  (2194) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Peach  pudding  a  la  Cleveland  (3102) 

(Ice)  Montesquieu  plombiere  (3480) 
Dessert 


128 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


•4rl3  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  young  rabbit,  St.  James  (274) 

Remove 
Baked  sole,  Italian  style  (1279) 

Entrees 

Chicken  fricassee  (1861) 
Creamed  macaroni  with  truffles  (2962) 

Rack  of  venison  roasted,  Colbert  sauce  (2169) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Hot  potato  salad  (2654) 

Hot  Entremets 
Souffle  fritters.  Medicis  (3047) 

(Iced)  Biscuit  Diplomate  (3435) 
Dessert 


4rl4r  NOVEMBER. 

DINNEE,    8  TO   10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Giblets  a  la  Reglain  (311) 

Remove 

Flounders  a  la  Genlis  (1154) 
Mashed  potatoes  (2798) 

Entrees 

Pullet  a  la  Le"ondise  (1974) 
Pumpkin  fried  in  small  sticks  (2814) 

Noisettes  of  fillet  of  beef  a  la  fleurette  (1413) 
Lima  beans,  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 

Roast 

Plovers  (2119) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Cream  with  apples  (3014) 

Macaroon  mousse  (3477) 
Dessert 


NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme,  Plumerey  (238) 

Side  Dish 
Mousseline,  Waleski  (916) 

Fish 

Canadian  turbot  a  la  d'Orle"ans  (1304) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Remove 

Loin  of  deer,  cherry  sauce  (2168) 
Brussels  sprouts  sauted  (2704) 

Entrees 

Pullet  a  la  Mornay  (1977) 
Marrow  squash  with  parmesan  (2824) 

Cases  of  English  snipe  a  la  Careme  (2228) 
Green  peas  with  shredded  lettuce  (2747) 

Pdquerette  sJierbet  (3527) 

Roast 

Mallard  ducks  (2059) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Conde  peaches  (3081) 

(Iced)  Timbale,  Algerian  style  (3580) 
Dessert 


NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque  of  crawfish  a  la  Humboldt  (203) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettos  of  quails,  African  style  (931) 

Fish 

Soles  a  la  Trouville  (1277) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Remove 

Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Bradford  (1349) 
Eggplant,  Duperret  (2735) 

Entrees 

Paupiettes  of  young  turkey,  souvenir  (2045) 
Green  peas  with  braised  lettuce  (2746) 

Tournedos  of  venison,  St.  Hubert  (2197) 
Smothered  string  beans  (2828) 

Pargny  punch  (3514) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Timbale  Figaro  (3123) 

(Iced)  Plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau  (3482) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


129 


NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Mock  turtle  thickened  (355) 

Remove 

Haddock,  Ancient  style  (1164) 
Persillade  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Quarter  of  pork,  Valenciennes(1797) 
Chopped  lettuce  (2751) 

Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Lucius  (1865) 
Macaroni  spaghetti,  Laurence  (2966) 

Roast 

Plovers  (2119) 
Salad 


Hot  Entremets 
Souffle  of  chestnuts  with  vanilla  (3118) 

Caramel  ice  cream  (3447) 
Dessert 


4, 

4-19  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16   TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Oysters  (803) 

Soup 
Clear  terrapin  (350) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales  a  la  Marly  (973) 

Fish 

Turban  of  smelts  (2393) 
Potato  croquettes  (2782) 

Remove 

Baron  of  yearling  lamb  a  la  de  Rivas  (1661) 
Okra  with  barley  croustades  (2763) 

Entrees 

Slices  of  kernel  of  venison  a  la  Hnssarde  (2181) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Squab  breasts  a  la  Duxelle,  stuffed  (2019) 
String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825) 

Montmorency  punch  (3512) 

Roast 

Partridge  a  la  Soyer  (2097) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Crust  of  pears,  Douglas  (3028) 

Madrilian  ice  cream  (3562"» 
Dessert 


4rl8  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Spaghetti  with  cream  (348) 

Remove 

Striped  bass,  Hollandaise  sauce  (1110) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Braised  chicken  with  noodles  (1913) 
Carrots,  Viennese  style  (2713) 

"  Pains  "  of  young  rabbit  (2549) 
Chestnuts  with  gravy  (2727) 

Roast 

Brant  ducks  (2053) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Light  pudding  with  almonds  (3112) 

Plombiere  d'Alencon  (3483) 
Dessert 


4;  2  0  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  shrimps,  Bretonne  (213) 

Side  Dish 
Brissotines  of  game,  Lyonnese  (850) 

Fish 

Sole  fillets.  Venetian  style  (1278) 
Broiled  potatoes  (2776) 

Remove 

Turkey  with  cepes  (2030) 
Tagliarelli  in  croustade  (2986) 

Entries 

Young  rabbit  a  la  Celtoise  (2137) 
Sauted  string  beans  (2829) 

Sweetbreads,  St.  Cloud  (1566) 
Macedoine  a  la  Montigny  (2755) 

Mephisto  sherbet  (3524) 

Roast 

Ptarmigan  (2072) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Biscuits  Frascati  (3004) 

(Ice)  Pudding  Fleury  (3493) 
Dessert 


130 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


4:21  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  English  snipes  a  la  Theo  (271) 

Remove 

Spotted  fish,  Queen  sauce  (1285) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  lamb  a  la  Guyane    (1708) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Duck  with  sauerkraut  (1925) 
Beetroot  fritters  (2702) 

Roast 

Young  rabbits  larded  and  roasted  (2142) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Noodle  crescents  with  cherries  (3015) 

(Ices)  Mushrooms  (3568) 
Dessert 


•  •      4:22  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  peas  with  mint  (261) 

Remove 

Stuffed  fillets  of  sole  (1281) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Entrees 

Cutlets  of  lamb  a  la  Clemence  (1673) 
Artichoke    bottoms,  Soubise  (2681) 

Jugged  hare  (2075) 
Macaroni  puree  of  game  (2963) 

Roast 

Mongrel  ducks,  stuffed  (1929) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  pudding,  fruit  sauce  (3106) 

(Ices)  Tortoni  cups  (3584) 
Dessert 


* 

4,23 


NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,    12  TO   16  PERSONS 
MENU. 


Soup 
Bisque  of  shrimps  a  la  Veragua  (211) 

Side  Dish 
Cromesquis  of  beef  palate  (867) 

Fish 

Canadian  turbot  a  la  Houston  (1305) 
Broiled  potatoes  (2776) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  venison,  Tyrolese  style  (2189) 
Stuffed  green  peppers  (2768) 

Entrees 

Duck  with  cepes  (1922) 
Tomatoes  Trevise  (2836) 

Sweetbreads  au  Chancelier  (1569) 

String  beans  sauted  (2829) 
Souffle  of  partridges  a  la  Huggins  (2364) 
Roman  punch  (3515) 

Roast 

Capon  (1826) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Chestnut  croquettes  (3017) 

(Ices)  The  marvelous  (3563) 
Dessert 


4:24:  NOVEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20   PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Cream  of  cardoons,  Livingston  (252) 

Side  Dish 
Cassolettes  a  la  Lusigny  '^60) 

Fish 

Redsnapper,  Mobile  (1235) 
Viennese  potatoes  (8812) 

Remove 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Chanzy  (1447) 
Squash  with  parmesan  (2824) 

Entrees 

Fricasseed  turkey  (2038) 
Sauted  Brussels  sprouts  (2704; 

Quails  a  la  Mirepoix  (2125) 
Celery  bechamel  with  croutons  (2720) 

Paradise  sherbet  (3525) 

Roast 

Canvasback    ducks    garnished    with   hominy 
(2055) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples,  Baron  de  Brisse  (2993) 

(Ices)  Nest  with  eggs  (3594) 
Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  131 

DECEMBRE.  4r25 

D!NER  DE  is  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  LA  FRANCAISE. 

MENU. 
Premier  Service. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  aux  nids  d'hirondelles  (244) 

Jarrets  de  veau  a  la  Briand  (319) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Croquettes  de  crabes  Parmentier  (879) 

Timbales  Princesse  (980) 

RELEVES. 

FletanalaReynal(1171) 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Melinet  (1452) 

ENTREES. 

Epigrammes  de  levrauts  a  la  Polignac  (2078) 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Beranger  (1834) 

Pate  chaud  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  McAllister  (2313) 
Filets  de  pigeons  aux  olives  (1970) 

Quenelles  de  volaille  a  la  Drew  (2326) 

Souffle  de  gibier  a  la  Lucie  (2362) 


Deuxieme  Service. 
Punch  Elisabeth  (3507) 

ROTS. 
Canvasback  (Canards  sauvages)  (2055)  Perdreaux  (2103) 

ENTREMETS. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  Villars  (2682) 

Pointes  d'asperges  Miranda  (2696) 

Pouding  Tyrolienne  (3111) 

Gelee  aux  ananas  Californienne  (3178) 

Brouette  garnie  de  fleurs  sur  socles  (3638)  Panier  de  cerises  (3630) 

Gateau  Reine  (3256)  Baba  sirope"  (3227) 

Dessert 


132  Till]    EPICUREAN. 

DECEMBER  426 

D!NER  DE  20  OOUVERTS-SERVICE  A  LA  RUSSE. 


MENU. 


Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  Impe'ratrice  (231) 

Bisque  de  lucines  a  la  Hendrick  (197) 

HORS-D'CEUVRE 

Orfites  de  coq  farcies  Duxelle  (863) 

Bouchees  a  la  puree  de  gibier  (936) 

RELEVES. 

Aiguillettes  de  bass  noir  aux  crabes  d'huitres  (1096) 

Selle  d'antilope  a  la  chasseresse  (2185) 

ENTREES. 

Borcture  de  poulet  a  la  Toulouse  (2210) 

Vol-au-vent  a  PAncienne  (2398) 

Bis  deveau  au  chancelier  (1569) 

Timbale  de  truffes  a  la  Pe*rigord  (2846) 

ROTS. 

Ruddy  duck  (2066) 

Oailles  au  cresson  (2131) 

LEGUMES. 

Tomates  farcies  aux  champignons  frais  (2842) 

Petits  pois  Parisienne  (2745) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Peches  Richelieu  (3083) 

Paniers  d'oranges  a  la  gelee  (3130) 

Flamri  de  semoule  (3168) 

Bavarois  aux  marrons  (3136} 

GLACES. 

Poules  avec  Poussins  (3594) 
Compotes  (3686)  Bonbons  (3642) 

Fruits  frais  (3699)  Devises  (3653) 

Petits  fours  (3364)  Amandes  Salees  (3696) 

Dessert 


BIJ1.LS    OF    FARE.  133 

DECEMBRfc.  4:27 

DINER  DE  24  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'ANGLAISE, 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Potage  de  becasses  (360) 

Creme  de  legumes  a  la  Banville  (266) 

POISSON. 

Turbot  Anglais  sauce  aux  capres  (1307) 

Pommes  de  torre  Viennoise  (2812) 

GROSSE  PIECE. 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  d'Orleans  (1450) 

Haricots  verts  e^uves  (2828) 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Primatice  (1851) 

Ris  de  veau  Maltaise  (1558) 

Quenelles  de  poulet  a  la  Bretonne  (2328) 

Casserole  de  ris  garnie  de  poulet  Palestine  (2239) 

ROT. 
Dindon  farci  aux  marrons  (2041) 

FROID. 

Terrine  de  foies  de  canards  a  FAquitaine  (2596) 

Salade  d'escarole  (2671) 

RELEVES. 

Beignets  souffles  Medicis  (3047) 

Compiegne  au  Sabayon  (3009) 

ENTREMETS. 

Petite  pois  a  FAnglaise  (2742) 

Asperges  a  la  Hollandaise  (2692) 

Pain  de  bananes  Havanaise  (3195) 

Couronne  a  la  Camper  (3156) 
Gelee  aux  violettes  (3185)  Eclairs  au  chocolat  (3303) 

BUFFET. 

Aloyau  a  la  Norwood  (1348)  Selle  de  mouton  rotie  a  la  broche  (1648) 

Pouding  Yorkshire  (770)  Pommes  roties  (2771) 

Tarte  aux  pommes  (3199)  Consomme  aux  ravioles  et  aux  perles  (359* 


134  THE    EPICUREAN. 

DECEMBER  4:28 

D!NEB  DE  is  COUVERTS— SERVICE  A  I/AMERICAINE.       '-  * 


MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

POTAGES. 

Consomme"  a  la  Berry  (220) 

Bisque  d'e"crevisses  a  la  Bateliere  (202) 

HORS-D'OEUVRE. 
Bouchees  Andalouse  (934) 

POISSONS. 

Bass  raye"   a  la  Whitney  (1109) 

Blanchaille  a  la  Greenwich  (1310) 

RELEVE. 

Filets  de  boeuf  a  la  Conde  (1448) 

Celeri  a  1'Espagnole  (2721) 

ENTREES. 

Filets  de  ponlet  Ik  la  Sadi-Carnot  (1853) 
P*tit*  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Cotelettes  de  chevreuil  Cauchoise  (2171) 
Epinards  Bechamel  (2820) 

Souffles  de  foies  gras  aux  truffes  (2361) 

Punch  Tournesol  (3517) 

ROT. 

Becasses  (2206) 

Salade  de  laitues  (2672) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES 

Baquet  de  gaufres  a  la  creme  (3128) 

Gateau  moka  (3249)  Macaronade  (3188) 

Palais  de  dames  a  la  Vanille  (3353) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Fruits  frais  (3699)  Compotes  (3686) 

Cafe"  (3701) 


BILLS    OF   FARE. 


135 


DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Westmoreland  (357) 

Remove 

Flounders,  Joinville  (1155) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entries 

Shoulder  of  lamb  a  la  Gamier  (1750) 
Cucumbers  breaded,  English  style  (2732) 

Fillets  of  Guinea  fowl  with  sauerkraut  (1958) 

Roast 

English  snipe  (2159) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Meringued  pancakes,  Rossini  (3073) 

(Ice)   Montelimar  with  hazel-nut  cream  (3566) 
Dessert 


4r30  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Lentils,  Chantilly  (273) 

Remove 

Soles  a  la  Colbert  (1271) 
Cucumbers  (2661) 

Entrees 

Rack  of  pork  on  the  spit  (1799) 
Stuffed  turuip  cabbage  (2709) 

Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Waleski  (1866) 
Tomatoes,  Queen  style  (2840) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Fritters  souffled,  Me"dicis  (3047) 

Caramel  ice  cream  (3447) 
Dessert 


4:31  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Puree  of  young  rabbit,  St.  James  (274) 

Side  Dish 
Rissoles  of  sweetbreads  (954) 

Fish 

Spotted  fish,  Calcutta  (1287) 
Viennese  potatoes  (281 2) 

Remove 

Rack  of  mutton  with  small  roots  (1643) 
Fried  stuffed  lettuce  (2752) 

Entrees 

Chicken  with  oyster  sauce  (1882) 
Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Salmis  of  woodcock  a  la  Beaumont  (2207) 
Miuced  cepes  in  croustades  (2725) 

Venetian  sherbet  (3529) 

Roast 
Turkey  stuffed,  American  style  (2028) 

Hot  Entremets 
Apples  with  burnt  almonds  (3000) 

(Ices)  Leona  (3558) 
Dessert. 


DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Chicken  gumbo  (299) 

Side  Dish 
Attereaux  of  oysters  (839) 

Fish 

Streaked  turban  of  flukes  (2393) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Braised  turkey  a  la  financiere  (2026) 
Stuffed  tomatoes  with  fresh  mushrooms  (2842) 

Entries 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Marsilly  (1559) 
Celeriac,  Mirabeau  (2722) 

Salmis  of  quails  a  la  Morisini  (2132) 
Mushrooms  stuffed  in  cases  (2762) 

Siberian  punch  (3516) 

Roast 

Canvasback    ducks    garnished    with   hominy 
(2055) 

Hot  Entremets 
Peach  pu.dding  a  la  Cleveland  (3102) 

Burnt  almond  angelica  ice  cream  (3455) 


136 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


4:33  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Bouillabaisse  (289) 

Remove 

Boudins  of  salmon  with  shrimps  (2221) 
Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Entrees 

Stuffed  hare  a  la  chatelaine  (2074) 
Tomatoes,  Frossart  (2834) 

Chicken  sauted  a  la  Diva  (1886) 
Green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Roast 

Squabs  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Crusts  with  fruit,  Mirabeau  (3025) 

(Ice)  Pudding  Constance  (3490) 
Dessert 


•I*       4:34:  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Gnocquis  a  la  Pagioli  (312) 

Remove 

Flounders  a  la  Dieppoise  (1153) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Entries 

Stuffed  chicken  with  tomato  Conde  sauce  (1883) 
Ravioles,  Bellini  (2976) 

Mutton  cutlets  a  la  Marechale  (1595) 
String  beans  sauted  with  butter  (2829) 

Roast 

Pheasants  (2107) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Fritters,  Montagnard  (3037) 

(Ice)  Mousse  a  la  Siraudin  (3472) 
Dessert 


4:35  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 

MENU. 

Soup 
Bisque  of  shrimps,  Melville  (212) 

Side  Dish 
Croquettes  of  grouse,  Soubise  (886) 

Fish 

Weakfish  a  la  Brighton  (1308) 
Hollandaise  potatoes  (2790) 

Remove 

Ribs  of  beef  a  la  Bristed  (1329) 
Fried  eggplant  (2739) 

Entrees 

Chicken  breasts  a  la  Bodisco  (1835) 
Carrots,  Viennese  style  (2713) 

Young  rabbit,  hunter's  style  (2140) 
Tomatoes,  Trevise  (2836) 

Sunflower  punch  (3517) 

Roast 

Reedbirds  (2152) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Meringued  peaches  (3082) 

(Ice)  Parfait  with  coffee  (3479) 
Dessert 


4:36  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme,  Bariatenski  (219) 

Side  Dish 
Bondons  of  woodcock  a  la  Diane  (845) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  with  white  wine  (1113) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Pullet  with  ravioles  (1995) 
String  beans  sauted  (2829) 

Entrees 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  laMaire  (1415) 
Glazed  cucumbers  (2733) 

Vol-au-vent  of  frogs'  legs,  Soubise  (2401) 
Parfait  amour  sherbet  (3526) 

Roast 

Ruddy  ducks  (2066) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 

Pudding  a  la  Bradley  (3093) 

(Ice)  Italian  mousse  (3475) 

Dessert 


OF    FARE. 


137 


4_  37"  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Oysters  a  la  Cruyst  (334) 
Remove 

Turbot  a  la  Mercier  (1306) 
Boiled  potatoes  (2774) 

Entrees 

Pullet  with  croustades  a  la  Financiere  (1993) 
Artichoke  bottoms  with  marrow  (2687) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Fleurette 

(1413) 
Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Roast 

Teal  ducks  (2068) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Rice  border  with  bananas  (3005) 

(Ices)  Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Orlandini  (3468) 
Dessert 


•^      4r38  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Frogs,  garnished  with  timbales  (309) 

Remove 

Flounders,  Madeleine  (1157) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Entrees 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Bourgeoise  (1634) 
Mushrooms  a  la  Reynal  (2756) 

Chicken  broiled  a  la  Delisle  (1828) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Roast 

Woodcock  (2206) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Brioche  fritters  with  cream  sabayon  (3040) 

(Ice)  Serano  pudding  (3498) 
Dessert 


439  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,    16  to  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup. 
Calf's  tail  a  la  Rundell  (294) 

Side  Dish 
Palmettes  a  la    Perier  (922) 

Fish 

Sole  a  la  Lutece  (1272) 
Duchess  potatoes  (2785) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  mutton  with  glazed  roots  (1649) 
Macaroni  Brignoli  (2958) 

Entrees 

Breaded  tenderloin  of  pork,  celery  pure"e  (181 8) 
Green  peas,  English  style  '(2742) 

Quails  stuffed  with  mushrooms  (2134) 
Parisian  salad  (2644) 

Rebecca  sherbet  (3528) 

Roast 

Plovers (2119) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Humboldt  pudding  (3100) 

(Ices)  Potatoes  (3575) 
Dessert 


DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  16  TO  20  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Hungarian  consomme  (235) 

Side  Dish 
Ham  mousselines,  Robertson  (915) 

Fish 

Striped  bass,  shrimp  sauce  (1111) 
Marchioness  potatoes  (2797) 

Remove 

Saddle  of  venison,  hunter's  style  (2185) 
Jerusalem  artichokes  a  la  Salamander  (2749) 

Entrees 

Stuffed  tame  duck  a  la  Britannia  (1917) 
Tr6vise  tomatoes  (2836) 

Noisettes  of  beef,  mushroom  pur6e  (1420) 
Russian  salad  (2645) 

Champagne  punch  (3504) 

Roast 

Capon  (1826) 
Salad 

Hot   Entremets 
Rice  pudding,  fruit  sauce  (3106) 

(Ice)  Cherry  plombiere  (3485) 
Dessert 


138 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


4r4rl  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Ravioles  with  Nizam  pearls  (359) 

Remove 

Haddock,  Holland  style  (1165) 
Entrees 

Loin  of  pork  a  la  Reglain  (1796) 
Cucumbers  breaded,  English  style  (2732) 

Fillets  of  young  rabbit  a  la  Bienvenue,  gar- 
nished with  croquettes  (2143) 
String  beans  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Roast 

Squabs  in  earthenware  saucepan  (2018) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Peaches  a  la  Conde  (3081) 

(Ice)  Biscuit  glace,  Diplomate  (3435) 
Dessert 


DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 

Crabs  a  la  Loubat  (303) 
Remove 

Black  bass  with  sweet  peppers  (1097) 
Viennese  potatoes  (2812) 

Entrees 

Mutton  cutlets  a  la  Macedoine  (1594) 
Baked  eggplant  (2738) 

Mallard  duck  with  celery,  half-glaze  (2060) 
Braised  pullet  with  jelly  (2570) 

Roast 

Partridges  with  water-cresses  (2102) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Custard  cream  with  apples  (3014) 

(Ice)  Plombiere  d'Alencon  (3483) 
Dessert 


4-4:3  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme  a  la  Dubarry  (229) 

Side  Dish 
Attereaux  of  turkey  (842) 

Fish 

Canadian  turbot  a  la  d'Orleans  (1304) 
Potatoes  persillade  (2774) 

Remove 

Mutton  with  Gastronome  potatoes  (1642) 
Asparagus,  Countess  (2693) 

Entrees 

Turkey  with  cepes  (2030) 
Risot  with  Piedmontese  truffles  (2981) 

Young  hare,  Castiglione  (2077) 
Teltow  turnips  with  chestnuts  (2849) 

Champagne  punch  (3504) 

Roast 

Redhead  ducks  (2063) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Peaches  a  la  Colbert  (3080) 

(Ice)  Bomb  with  prunelle  (3443) 
Dessert 


4-4-4-  DECEMBER. 

DINNER,  8  TO  10  PERSONS. 
MENU. 

Soup 
Consomme,  Andalouse  (216) 

Side  Dish 
Timbales,  Soubise  (986) 

Fish 

Striped  bass  with  fine  herbs  (1112) 
Potato  tartlets  (2810) 

Remove 

Redhead  duck,  Bareda  (2062) 
Artichoke  bottoms,  Mornay  (2686) 

Entries 

Veal  cutlets,  Pogarski  (2273) 
Green  peas,  housekeeper's  style  (2744) 

Fillets  of  young  rabbit  a  la  Lavoisier  (2144) 
Brussels  sprouts  a  la  Baroness  (2703) 

Paradise  sherbet  (3525) 

Roast 

Pullets  (1996) 
Salad 

Hot  Entremets 
Chestnut  croquettes  (3017) 

(Ice)  Fiori  di  latte,  Orlandini  (3468) 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  139 

JANUARY.  4r45 

DANCING  PARTY  OF  100  PERSONS— SERVED  FRENCH  STYLE. 

REFRESHMENTS  AND   SUPPER. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

First  Service,  n  o'clock. 

Genoeses  with  cream  meringued  (3308)  Conde  cakes  (3297)  Varied  fruit  tartlets  (3337) 

Africans  (3364)  Macaroons  (3379) 

Refreshments 
Lemonade,  Orgeat  and  Grenadine  syrup. 


Second  Service,  12  o'clock. 

Assorted  ice  creams  (3538)  Rolled  wafers  with  Curacoa  cream  (3224) 
Iced  biscuits  with  vanilla  (3438)  Fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Tutti  frutti  biscuit  (3586)  Small  cream  biscuits  (3137) 

Hot  wine  (3715)  Champagne  punch  (3714) 


Third  Service,  i  o'clock. 

SUPPER   (HOT). 

Consomme"  (189)  Chicken  croquettes  exquisite  (877) 

Victoria  patties  (942)  Coffee  and  milk  (3701) 

Venetian  timbales  (989)  Escalops  of  fat  livers  a  la  Villeneuve  (2279) 

;  COLD. 

Roast  capon  and  water  cress  (1826) 
Galantine  of  pigeons  (2496) 

Terrine  of  snipe  (2603) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  macedoine  croustades  (2440) 
Small  "  pain  "  of  capon  with  tarragon  (2542) 
Shrimp  salad  (2647) 

Sandwiches  of  different  meats  (815) 

Small  rolls  with  lobster  (809) 

SWEET  ENTREMETS  AND  DESSERT. 

Thin  chocolate  wafers  (3362)  Fruit  jellies  (3187) 

Fresh  fruits  (3699)  Varied  ice  cream  (3538) 

Assorted  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Champagne. 


140  THE    EPICUREAN. 


FEVRIEL. 

SOUPER  DE  30  OOUVERTS— SERVICE  A  L'AMERIOAINE. 


MENU. 

Huitres  (803) 

Consomme"  en  tasses  (189) 

Eadis  (808)  Olives  (800)  Celeri  en  branches  (779/ 


Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Milanaise  (1453) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (3743) 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Lucullus  (1846) 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  Soubise  (2681) 

Terrapene  a  la  Orisfield  (1084) 

Mousseline  de  foies  gras  a  la  Dana  (2535) 

Celestine  de  poularde  a  la  Talleyrand  (2450) 

Salade  d'ecrevisses  a  la  Maintenon  (2629) 

Pigeonneaux  rotis  a  la  casserole  (2018) 

Truffes  en  serviette  (2843) 

Flamrl  a  la  crfime  (8167) 

Gel^e  Tunisienne  rubanee  (3184) 

Gelee  au  marasquin  (3186) 

Pouding  glace  a  la  Duchesse  (3492) 
Ceylan  au  cafe  (3545) 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364)  Bonbons  (364*)  Devises  (3653) 

Cafe  (3701) 


BILLS    OF   FARE. 


MARS, 


SOUPER  DE  30  OOUVEETS— SERVICE  A  L'AM^RIOAINE. 


MENU. 


Graves 
Lafaurfe 


Nierstewer 


Chamberttn 


Pommery 
Malaga 


Huitres  (803) 

Canapes  d'e"crevisses  (777)  Salade  d'anchois  (772) 

Beurre  (775)  Kadis  (808)  Olives  (800) 

Consomme"  en  tasses  (189) 

Puree  de  volaille  a  la  Reine  (270) 

Croquettes  de  poulet  a  la  Hongroise  (878) 

Canape's  a  la  Lorenzo  (855) 

Cfltelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Maison  d'Or  (1679) 

Pigeonneaux  a  la  Flourens  (2009) 


Galantine  de  faisan  de"coup6e  (2495) 


Pat6  de  foies  gras  dgcoupe*  (2563) 


Poularde  rotie  truffee  (1992) 

Salade  Imp^riale  (2634) 

Gele"e  au  marasquin  (3186) 

Charlotte  Bengalienne  (3142) 

Glace  mousse  aux  marrons  (3477) 

Petites  glaces  moule*es  vari&s  (3431) 

Caf6  glace  (3609) 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Bonbons  (3642)  Devises  (3653) 

Violettes  praline"es  (3659) 
Dessert 

Champagne  glace*  (3710) 


i42  THE    EPICUREAN. 

APRIL.  4r4r8 

SIDEBOARD  SUPPER  FOR  300  PERSONS— RUSSIAN  SERVICE. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 
Consomme1  (189)  Cream  of  rice  Cre'mieux  (249) 

Truffled  ham  a  la  Florian  (2523)  Chaudfroid  of  fillets  of  redhead  duck  (2460) 

Decorated  galantines  of  eels  (2488)  Foies  gras  in  border  (2483) 

Cold  chicken  fricassee  (2467)  Shrimp  salad  (2647) 

Javiare  (778)  Lemons  and  oranges  (793)  Small  fancy  rolls  with  lobster  (809j 

Assorted  canapes  (777)  Assorted  sandwiches  (811) 

ENTREMETS  AND  DESSERT. 

2  Vases  of  drawn  sugar  with  flowers  (3637) 

Savoy  biscuit  (3231)  Baba  syruped  (3227) 

Cream  with  cherries  (3154)  Macedoine  champagne  jelly  (3179) 

Bavarois  with  meringues  (3133)  High  stands  of  assorted  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Plates  filled  with  bonbons  (3642)  Basket  of  fresh  fruits  (3699) 

Preserves  (3684) 


SUPPER,  HOT  AND  COLD  FOR  200  PERSONS. 
On  twenty  tables,  ten  persons  to  each. 

Consomme"  (189)  Puree  of  chicken  Dufferin  (269) 

Darne  of  salmon  a  la  Duperre  (1240)  Crab  salad  (2628) 

Chicken  fillets  au  supreme  (1858)  Squabs  a  la  Flourens  (2009) 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Vi  liars  (2682)  Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Roast  pheasant  (2107)  Roast  turkey  with  water-cress  (2028) 

Fruit  jelly  with  kirsch  (3187)  Bengalian  Charlotte  (3142) 

Peaches  a  la  Louvoisienne  (3198) 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  TEA,    REFRESHMENTS  AND  ICES. 

Tea  (3704)  Coffee  (3701)  Punch  (3501)  Chocolate  (3700) 

Strawberry  mousse  (3474)  Small  ices  (3431) 

American  sherbet  (3521)  Lemonade  (3713)  Tea  cakes  (3339) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


MAL 

SOUPER  ASSIS  DE  35  COUVERTS— SERVICE  1  L'AMERICAINE. 


MENU. 


Canapes  de  sardines  (777)  Anchois  (772)  Celeri  en  branches  (779)  Radis  (808) 

Lucines  orangees  (803) 

Consomme  de  volaille  en  tasses  (190) 
Homard  a  la  Hervey  (1034) 

Croquettes  de  palais  de  bosuf  (875) 
Petits  pois  a  TAnglaise  (2742) 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Talma  (1687) 

Haricots  verts  a  la  Pettit  (2827) 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Lorenzo  (1845) 

Tomates  farcies  Provengale  (2835) 

Chapon  roti    (1826) 

Salade  de  pommes  de  terre  en  bordure  aux  truffes  (2655) 

Gelee  au  marasquin  (3186) 

Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

Glace  bombe  a  la  Trobriand  (3440) 

Glaces  moulees  variees  (3431) 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364) 

Caf6  (8701) 


14* 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


JUIN. 


45O 


SOUPEE  ASSIS  40  COUVERTS. 


MENU. 


Haut  Sauteme  Lucines  orangees  (803) 

Caviar  (778)        Salade  d'anchois  (772)         Olives  (800)         Sardines  (831) 

Consomme  (189) 

Truites  de  ruisseau  a  la  Careme  (2611) 

Salade  de  concombres  (2661) 


Champagne 

Perrier-Jou'tt 


Atte*reaux  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  moderne  (841) 
Filets  de  volaille  a  la  Cussy  (1838) 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise  (2742) 

Quenelles  de  volaille  Richelieu  (2327) 


Petits  pains  de  volaille  a  I'Scarlate  (2543) 

Dome  de  homard  garni  de  petites  caisses  (2481) 


Chambertin 


Canetons  rdtis  (1921) 

Salade  de  truffes  a  la  Gambetta  (2667) 


Gel6e  mace"doine  au  champagne  (3179) 

Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  frambois6e  (3223) 

Glaces  Delicieux  aux  noisettes  (3592) 

Le  casque  orne"  de  sucre  file"  (3598) 


Fruits  eristallise*s  (3659)        Petits  fours  (3364) 
Bonbons  (3642)  Devises  (3653) 

Fruits  frais  (3699) 
Cafe"  (3701) 


BILLS    OF    FARJ£.  U6 


JULY. 


AMBIGU  PICNIC— 60  PERSONS. 


BILL  OF  FARE. 


HORS-D'(EUVBE. 

Herring  salad  with  potatoes  (2633) 

Beef  sandwiches  a  la  Barlow  (812) 

Chicken  sandwiches  (813) 

Okra  and  sweet  pepper  salad  (2651) 

Small  sturgeon  Livonienne  style  (2594) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  vegetables,  mayonnaise  (2441) 
Smoked  red  beef  tongue  (2608) 

Pigeon  galantines  (2496) 

Veal  and  ham  pie  (2568) 

Duckling  with  Spanish  olives  (2482) 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Garrison  (2530) 

Broiled  chicken  (1831) 
Frog  salad  (2632) 

Lobster  salad,  American  style  (2638)  Bagration  salad  (2622) 

Apricot  flawn  (3170) 

Punch  cake  with  rum  (3255) 

Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

Bavarois  with  meringues  (3133) 

Raspberries  and  cream  (3699) 

Ice  Cream. 
Vanilla  (3458)  Strawberry  water  ice  (3607)  Chocolate  (3449) 

White  coffee  (3460)  Iced  biscuit  with  vanilla  (3438) 

Fruits  (3699)  Fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Coffee  (3701) 
Dessert 


146 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


AUGUST— GARDEN  PARTY— 100  PERSONS. 


uajioiqo  put?  saaddad  uaaaS 


iA^  paaaAoo  p'eo.iq 


Caviar,  olives,  butter,  radishes 
Lobster  remoulade^     m      \Sheepshead  with  jelly 
Toasted  bread  covered          ^f™       >with  chicken  and  bacon 

i  Si.  A  N  LJ 

Merinsrue  bavaroise  cream\      ^     /  Macedoine  jelly 


Pain  of  calf  liver,  Salpicon 
Ribs  of  beef  en  bellevue  Turkey  in  daube,  Verneuil 


Coifee 


Tea 


BILLS    OF   FAilE.  147 


SEPTEMBER.  4r52 

AMBIGU— 200  PERSONS. 


Radishes  (808)  Celery  (779) 

Butter  (775)  Gherkins  (785) 

Olives  (800)  Red  cabbage,  marinated,  English  style  (776) 

Caviar  (778)  Chow-chow  (791) 

Salted  almonds  (3696)  Hard-boiled  eggs  on  canape's  (777) 

Marinated  cauliflower  (776)  Anchovy  salad  (772) 
Potato  salad  with  herring  (2653) 


Slices  of  salmon  with  jelly  (2578) 

Roasted  peacock  adorned  with  its  plumage  (2552)        Galantine  of  suckling  pig  (2498) 
Kernel  of  veal  with  mayonnaise  tomatoed  sauce  (2527)    Beef  a  la  mode  (2433) 
Capon  legs  with  truffles  (1826)  Cold  snipe  pie  (2567) 

Lobster  with  mayonnaise  (2534) 

Small  "  pain"  of  chicken  a  la  Freycinet  (2544)  Galantine  of  gosling,  melon  shaped  (2489) 
Pork  liver  terrine  (2551)  Japanese  salad  (2636) 

Barlow  sandwiches  (812)  Rillettes  (809) 

Slices  of  bread  and  butter  (820)  Sandwiches  with  anchovies  (816) 

French  roll  sandwiches,  American  style  (816) 

Assorted  ice  cream  (3538) 
Fancy  cakes  (3364)  Fruits  (3699) 

Claret  punch  (3714)  Lemonade  (3713) 

Iced  coffee  (3609)  Iced  chocolate  (3608) 


148  THE    EPICUREAN. 

OCTOBER  4:53 

SUPPER  FOR  300  PERSONS-ENGLISH  SERVICE. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

LARGE  PIECES. 

Chicken  pie  (2554)  Ribs  of  beef  a  la  bourgeoise  (2431) 

Ham  glazed  with  sugar  (2522)  Turkey  in  daube  (2616) 

ENTREES. 

Ballotines  of  quails  a  la  Tivolier  (2426)  Decorated  darne  of  salmon  (2576) 
Cutlets  of  pheasant  in  chaudfroid  (2477)  Smoked  red  beef  tongues  (2608) 

Lamb  cutlets,  Imperial  (2471)  Galantine  of  pullet  a  la  Mozart  (2497) 

Lobster  salad,  American  style  (2638)  Chicken  mayonnaise  (2625) 

RESERVE. 

Chickens  (2469)  and  tongues  (2608) 

Terrine  of  pork  liver  (2602) 

PASTRY  PIECES. 

Fleury  cake  (3237)  Nougatine  cake  (3251) 

Savoy  biscuit  (3231)  Iced  baba  (3227) 

SWEET  DISHES  OF  SMALL  PASTRIES  AND  ICES. 

Pear  tartlets  (3337)  Lozenges  (3349) 

Espagnolettes  (3346)  Apricot  nougat  (3319) 

Nantes  cakes  (3352)  Small  fancy  ices  (3538) 

Japanese  cakes  (3347) 

Biscuits  glaces  (3438)  "  Pain"  of  bananas,  Havanese  (3195) 

Malakoff  cream  (3150)  Surprise  Bavarois  (3132) 

Jelly  with  fruit  and  kirsch  (3187) 

HOT  SERVICE  ON  SIDEBOARD. 

Bisque  of  clams  a  la  Hendrick  (197)       Cream  of  barley,  Vienna  style  (249)        Nizam  pearls  (316) 

Roast  pullets  (1996) 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  149 

NOVEMBER  454: 

SOUPER  BUFFET  ET  ASSIS  DE  400  PEKSONNES. 

MENU  BUFFET. 


CHAUD. 

Consomme"  de  gibier  (192) 

Mousseline  Isabelle  (912) 

Huitres  a  la  Hollandaise  (1066) 

Huitres  frites  a  la  Orly  (1060) 

Bouchees  a  la  Victoria  (942) 

Quenelles  de  terras  a  la  Londonderry  (2332) 
P6toncles  a  la  Brestoise  (1074) 

Queues  de  homard  a  la  Stanley  (1042) 
Terrapene  a  la  Baltimore  (1083) 
Cafe  (3701)  The  (3704) 


FROID. 

Saumon  de  TOrSgon  a  la  Venitienne  (2587) 
Filet  de  boeuf  aux  croustades  macedoine  (2440) 
Galantine  de  dinde  a  la  Berger  (2499) 

Langue  de  boauf  ecarlate  en  arcade  (2607) 
Becasses  a  la  Valere  (2619)  Aspic  de  foies  gras  (2411) 

Mousseline  de  kingfish  a  la  Briere  (2536)  Poulet  roti  garni  de  gele"e  (2469) 

Mayonnaise  de  poulet  (2625)  Salade  de  homard  a  PAme'ricaine  (2638) 

Sandwichs  de  gibier  (814)  Rillettes  (809)  Canape's  (777) 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES    ET  DESSERT. 

Pouding  Valois  (3211)  Gelee  aux  framboises  (3183) 

Gateau  Vacherin  a  la  creme  (3264)  Savarin  a  la  Valence  (3259) 

GLACES  V  ARISES. 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364)  Bonbons  (3642)  Devises  (3653) 

Champagne  glace  (3710) 


Le  souper  est  dresse1  en  buffet,  ensuite  servi  sur  des  petites  tables  de  cinq  a  dix  converts,  on 
decoupe  le  froid  que  1'on  dresse  sur  des  petits  plats  que  Ton  place  sur  chacune  des  tables  ainsi 
que  le  hors  d'ceuvre  froid.  Avant  de  servir  Fentremet  Sucre  et  le  dessert  on  remplace  le  froid  et  le 
hors  d'oauvre  par  les  gele'es  poudings,  gateaux,  fruits,  etc.  Le  chaud  est  au  choix  des  convives- 


150  THE    EPICUREAN. 

DECEMBRE.  £55 

SOUPER  BUFFET  ET  ASSIS  POUR  100  COUVERT8. 

MENU  BUFFET. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme"  de  volaille  (190)  Creme  d'orge  a  la  Viennoise  (249) 
Huitres  fricassees  a  la  poulette  (1067)  Timbales  a  la  Soubise  (986) 

Coquilles  de  saumon  (2346)  Bouchers  Turbigo  (941) 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  (1085)  Canvasbacks  (canards  sauvages)  (2055) 

Cafe"  (3701)  The  (3704) 

FROID. 

Chaudfroid  de  Courlis  (2452)  Terrine  de  lievre  (2598) 

Langue  de  boauf  e"carlate  a  la  gele"e  (2609)  Aspics  de  filets  mignons  de  perdreaux  (2416) 

Cdtelettes  de  noix  d'agneau  mayonnaise  (2474)      Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Gallier  (2466) 
Salade  de  c61eri  mayonnaise  (2660)  Salade  de  homard  a  1'Ame'ricaine  (2638) 

Sandwichs  variees  (815) 

ENTREMETS    DE  DOUCEUR  FROIDS  ET   DESSERT. 

GeI6e  au  rhum  (3186)  Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  framboisee  (3223) 

Gateau  noisettes  (3241)  Charlotte  Bengalienne  (3142) 

Bombe  panache'e  au  cafe"  blanc  et  noir  (3444)  Souffle  glace  a  la  Favart  (3534) 

Tutti  frutti  (3586)  Biscuit  glace"  (3438)  Toronchino  Procope  (3583) 

Fruits  (3699)  Petits  fours  (3364)  Bonbons  (3642)  Devises  (3653) 


Lefroid  est  decoupe"  et  servi  sur  table  (want  de  servir  le  Souper. 
Le  Souper  assis  est  servi  sur  des  tables  de  5  a  10  Converts  dans  1'ordre  suivant. 

Consomme"  de  volaille  Creme  d'orge  a  la  Viennoise 

Timbales  a  la  Soubise  Bouchees  Turbigo 

Huitres  fricassees  a  la  poulette  Coquilles  de  saumon 

Cotelettes  de  uoix  d'agneau  mayonnaise  Filets  de  poulet  a  la  Gallier 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland 

Chaudfroid  de  Courlis  Terrine  de  lievre 

Langue  de  boeuf  ecarlate  a  la  gel^e  Aspics  de  filets  mignons  de  perdreaux 

Salade  de  homard  a  1'Americaine  Sandwichs  variees 

Oanvasbacks  (canards  sauvages)  Salade  de  celeri  mayonnaise 

Gel6e  au  rhum  Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  framboisee 

Gateau  noisettes  Charlotte  Bengalienne 

Bombe  panachee  au  caf6  blanc  et  noir  Souffle"  glace  a  la  Favart 

Tutti  frutti  Biscuit  glace  Toronchino  Procope 

Fruits  Petits  fours  Bonbons  Devises 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


151 


SUPPER. 
JANUARY.  4:56  *  JANUARY. 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 

Crawfish  mariniere  (1009) 
Breasts  of  woodcock  a  la  Houston  (2201) 

Deviled  ribs  of  beef  (1331) 

Aspic  of  breast  of  quail  (2419) 

(Ice)  Croquettes  macedoine  (3559) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


4=57 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 

Lobster  on  skewers,  Colbert  (2222) 

Game  croquettes  a  la  Dauphine  (885) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast  redhead  ducks  (2063) 

Celery  mayonnaise  salad  (2660) 

Ice  cream  (3458) 

Dessert 


JANUARY.  458 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell  (803) 

Woodcock  croquettes  with  truffles  (892) 

Mutton  kidneys  on  skewers,  deviled  (1620) 

Lobster  tails  in  their  shells  (2533) 

(Ice)  Souffles  Palmyra  (3535) 

Dessert 


JANUARY.  459 

Oysters  (803) 
Crusts  with  Chester  cheese  (946) 

Crawfish  with  butter  (1011) 
Lamb  sweetbreads,  Sevigne  (1762) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

(Ice)  Nesselrode  pudding  with  candied  chest- 
nuts (3495) 
Dessert 


FEBRUARY.  46O 

Oysters  (803) 

Consomme"  (189) 

Marechalo  mousseline  (913) 

Escalops  of  fat  livers  a  la  Villeneuve  (2279) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Doe  birds  (2051) 

(Ice)  Stuffed  tomatoes  (3582) 

Dessert 


FEBRUARY.  461 

Oysters  in  cases  a  la  Lorenzo  (2232) 

Fresh  mushroom  patties  (937) 

Striped  bass  a  la  Manhattan  (2428) 

Chicken  souffle  a  la  Delsart  (2360) 

Roast  plover  (2119) 

Salad 
Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 


FEBRUARY. 

Oysters    in  their  natural    shells  with    fried 

bread  (2353) 
Lobster,  American  style  (1024) 

Chicken  salad  (2626) 

Roasted  English  snipe  (2159) 

(Ice)  Plombiere  a  la  Havanaise  (3484) 

Dessert 


FEBRUARY.  463 

Oysters  on  crusts  (1062) 

Turkey  croquettes   (894) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef,  plain  (1410) 

Sarah  potatoes  (2802) 
Aspic  of  foies-gras  (2411) 

Asparagus  salad  (2621) 
Montelimar  with  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (3566) 


152 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


MAKCH. 

Cream  of  barley,  Vienna  style  (249) 

Fried  stuffed  oysters  (1070) 

Cr6pine  of  reedbirds  (2247) 

Lobster  mayonnaise,  Printaniere  (796) 

Roast  ptarmigan  with  gravy  (2072) 

(Ice)  Bomb  with  kirsch  (3443) 

Dessert 


SUPPER. 

MARCH. 


4,65 


Welsh  rarebit  (946) 

Lamb  kidneys  on  skewers  (1703) 

Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Strawberry  water  ice  (3607) 

Sponge  cake  (3260) 

Dessert 


MARCH.  4:66 

Clear  bouillon  (187) 

Squab  cutlets  a  la  de  Luynes  (2266) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Broiled  chicken  (1831) 

Norwegian  salad  (2641) 

(Ice)  Andalusian  cream  (3446) 

Dessert 


MARCH.  4,67 

Consomme1  (189) 

Chicken  croquettes,  Exquisite  (877) 
Small  green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Lobster  a  la  Newberg  (1037) 

Pheasant  adorned  with  its  own  plumage  (2107) 

(Ice)  Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Bellini  (3467) 

Dessert 


APRIL.  4,68 

Oysters  and  lemons  (803) 

Trout  marinated  in  wine  (829) 

Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Baillard 

(1400) 
English  partridges  (2102) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

(Ice)  Diploma  te  biscuit  (3435) 

Dessert 


APRIL.  4,69 

Toast  with  oil  and  cheese  (992) 

Croquettes  of  frogs  (884) 

Pullet  crepine  (2243) 

Oyster  salad  (2642) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

(Ice)  Plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau  (3482) 
Dessert 


APRIL. 


4=70 


APRIL. 


4:71 


Oysters  (803) 

Crawfish,  Maison  d'Or  (1010) 
Sweetbread  in  cases  £  la  Grammont  (2235) 

Quartered  artichokes  (2688) 
Roast  chicken  with  jelly  and  beef  tongue 

(2469) 

Strawberry  mousse  ice  cream  (3474) 
Dessert 


Bouillon  (187) 

Toast  a  la  Waddington  (862) 

Shells  of  oysters  a  la  Villa  (2340) 

Breasts  of  chicken  a  la  Beranger  (1834) 

Potato  shavings  (2807) 

English  snipe  (2159) 

Mignon  salad  (2620) 

(Ice)  Turban  with  strawberries  (3100) 


BILLS    OF    FAHE. 


153 


SUPPER. 


MAY. 


4:72       ' 


Clams  (803) 

Yorkshire  rarebit  (946) 

Lobster  a  la  Bounefoy  (1026) 

Dauphine  potatoes  (2783) 

Broiled  chicken  (1831) 

(Ice)  Komanoff  pudding  (3497) 

Dessert 


MAY.  4.73 

Consomme"  (189) 

Crusts  of  clams  a  la  Schenk  (903) 

Ham  mousseline  a  la  Belmont  (911) 

Ptarmigans,  currant  jelly  (2072) 

Romaine  salad  (2675) 

(Ice)  Tutti  frutti  (3586) 

Dessert 


MAY. 


4:74= 


Clams  (803) 

Toast  with  sardines  (992) 

Venetian  timbales  (989) 

Lamb  cutlets  with  mayonnaise  (2474) 

Broiled  squabs,  Colbert  sauce  (2013) 

(Ice)  Bomb  with  maraschino  (3443) 

Dessert 


MAY.  4,75 

Consomme  (189) 

Soft  clams  a  la  poulette  (995) 

Lamb  cutlets,  Signora  (1686) 

Chicken  salad  with  vegetables  (2627) 

Broiled  duckling  (1938) 

Salad 

(Ice)  Parfait  with  coffee  (3479) 
Dessert 


JUNE.  4,76 

Clams  (803) 
Brissotins  of  chicken  supreme  (849) 

Lobsters  a  la  Newberg(1037) 
Border  of  forcemeat  a  la  Duchess  (2211) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Ice  cream  parfait  nougat  (3478) 

Salad 

Dessert 


JUNE. 


Clams  (803) 

Rissoles  of  lamb  (952) 

Small  green  peas,  Parisian  style  (2745) 

Duckling  a  la  Rouennaise  (1937) 

Broiled  chicken  (1831) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

(Ice)  Stuffed  tomatoes  (3582) 

Dessert 


JULY. 


478 


Clams  (803) 

Lobster  mayonnaise  Printaniere  (795) 

Brissotins  of  chicken  au  supreme  (849) 

Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Salad 

(Ice)  Bomb  streaked   with  white  and  black 
coffee  (3444) 

Dessert 


JULY. 


479 

Clams  (803) 

Timbales  Calaisienne  (962) 
Sweetbread  cutlets  a  la  Talleyrand  (2272) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Roast  sand-snipe  with  water-cress  (2161) 

(Ice)  Vanilla  mousse  (3458) 

Dessert 


154 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


SUPPER. 


AUGUST. 


480 


Clams  (803) 

Croustades  Parrnentier  (896) 
Chicken  quenelles  with  consomme  (2329) 

Sauted  mushrooms  (2760) 

Chaudfroid  of  lamb  cutlets  (2475) 

Broiled  reedbirds  (2151) 

Salad 

Virgin  ice  cream  with  orange-flower  water 
(3459) 
Dessert 


AUGUST. 


481 


Clams  (803) 

Quenelles  of  spring  turkey  (2336) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Cases  of  thrush  with  jelly  (2449) 

Broiled  wild  squabs  (2112) 

Tomato  salad  (2666) 

(Ice)  Roman  bomb  (3442) 

Dessert 


SEPTEMBER. 

Oysters  (803) 

Fish  quenelles,  Montglas  (2330) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  with  olives  (1428) 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Soubise  (2681) 

Roast  woodcock  (2206) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

(Ice)  Mousse  with  peaches  (3474) 

Dessert 


SEPTEMBER.  483 

Oysters  (803) 

Anchovy  fritters  (835) 

Partridge  fillets,  Giralda  (2086) 

Roast  duckling  with  green  mayonnaise  and 
fine  herbs  (1938) 

Aspics  of  foies  gras  (2412) 

Salad 

(Ice)  Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Bellini  (3467) 
Dessert 


OCTOBER.  484 

Consomme  (189) 

Scallops  on  toast,  baked  (1078) 

Chicken  fillets  a  la  Genin  (1843) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742) 

Broiled  plover  (2118) 

Salad 
(Ice)  Biscuit  glacis  (3438) 


OCTOBER.  485 

Oysters  (803) 

Bressoles  of  fat  liver  (848) 

Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Dumas  (1402) 

Salad  of  crawfish  with  jelly  (2630) 

Roasted  woodcock  (2206) 

(Ice)  Duchess  pudding  (3492) 

Small  fancy  cakes  (3364) 

Dessert 


OCTOBER. 


486 


OCTOBER. 


487 


Oysters  (803) 
Deviled  stuffed  lobster  a  la  Carlu  (1043) 

Toasted  bread  with  bacon  (827) 
Chicken  breasts,  Empress  style  (1841) 

Broiled  snipe  (2157) 

Cucumber  salad  (2661) 

(Ice)  Marvelous  (3563) 

Dessert 


Consomme  (189) 

Ham  mousseline  Virginienne  (911) 

Small  aspics  of  foies  gras  (2412) 

Roasted  ruddy  duck  (2066) 

Lettuce  salad  (2672) 

(Ice)  Mokabelle  (3565) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


155 


SUPPER. 


NOVEMBER.  488 

Oysters  (803) 

Partridge  quenelles  a  la  Stuart  (2333) 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Mornay  (2680) 

Terrapin  a  la  Trenton  (1090a) 

Roast  grouse  (2072) 

Cos  lettuce  salad  (2675) 

(Ice)  Mousse  with  macaroons  (3477) 

Dessert 


NOVEMBER.  489 

Oysters  (803) 

Small  cases  with  fat  livers  (2229) 

Lamb  cutlets  a  la  Turenne  (1688) 

Shells  of  capon  with  jelly  (2590) 

Broiled  woodcock  (2204) 

Salad 

Parfait  with  coffee  (3479) 
Dessert 


NOVEMBER. 


49O 


Oysters  (803) 

Toast,  Florentine  (991) 

Cromesquis  of  crabs,  Rumpford  (869) 

Terrapin,  Epicurean  style  (1090b) 

Small  aspics  of  foies  gras  (2412) 

Roast  plover  (2119) 

Celery  salad  (2660) 

(Ice)  Toronchino  Procope  (3583) 


NOVEMBER.  491 

Oysters  (803) 
Consomme"  (189; 

Palmettes  of  snipe  a  la  Osborn  (932) 

St.  Jacques  shells,  Parisian  style  (1079) 

Toasted  bread  with  chicken  (827) 

Roast  quails  (2131) 

Escarole  salad  (2671) 

(Ice)  Basket  of  oranges  (3570) 


DECEMBER. 

Oysters  (803) 

Consomme  (189) 

Capon  croquettes  a  la  Royale  (876) 

Peas  English  style  (2742) 

Terrapin  a  la  Maryland  (1085) 

Roast  reedbirds  with  water-cress  (2252) 

Ice  cream  with  chestnuts  (3465) 

Dessert 


DECEMBER.  493 

Consomme  (189) 

Brochettes  of  oysters  with  truffles  (1058) 

Sweetbreads  a  la  Mirabeau  (2595) 

Fat  livers,  Toulousaine  (2287) 

Fried  egg-plant  (2739) 

Roasted  grouse  (2072) 

Salad 

(Ice)  Biscuit  with  vanilla,  melon  shape  (3438) 
Dessert 


DECEMBER. 


494 


DECEMBER. 


Welsh  rarebit  a  la  Cutting  (946) 

Lobster  a  la  Bordelaise  (1026) 

Noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  Berthier  (1411) 

Terrapin  a  la  Newberg  (1086) 

Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Water-cress  salad  (2676) 

(Ice)  Harlequin  (3554) 

Dessert 


Consomme  (189) 

Oysters  on  toast  (1062) 

Ham  mousseline  a  la  Costa  (911) 

Terrapin  a  la  Crisfield  (1084) 

Roast  woodcock  (2206) 

Okra  and  sweet  pepper  salad  (2651) 

(Ice)  Potatoes  (3575) 

Dessert 


156 


TME    EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER.  496 

BUFFET  POUR  300  PERSONNES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme  de  gibier  (192) 

Huitres  a  la  Villeroi  (1056) 

Rissolettes  a  la  Renan  (957) 

Bouchees '  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  Frangaise  (940) 

Terrapene,  Maryland  Club  (1088) 

Perdreaux  piques  rotisau  jus  et  cresson  (2102) 

Crabes  durs  farcis  a  la  diable  (1004) 

FROID. 

Saumon  a  la  Moderne  (2582) 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Lucullus  (2436) 

Voliere  de  faisan  a  la  Waddington  (2424) 

Jambon  decore  a  la  Gatti  (2521) 

Ballotines  de  pigeonneaux  a  la  Madison  (2427) 

Galantine  de  faisan  a  la  Lorenzo  (2494) 

Langues  de  bceuf,  Rochefort  (2606) 

Salmis  froid  de  perdreaux  (2574) 

Salade  de  hoinard  a  TAmericaine  (2638) 

Mayonnaise  de  volatile  (2625) 

Tetras  rods  au  jus  (2072) 

Sandwichs  (811) 
Tartines  de  pain  blanc  beurrees  (820) 

ENTREMETS   DE   DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Paniers  d'oranges  a  la  gelee  (3130) 

Bavarois  aux  marrons  (3136) 

Gateau  aux  amandes  (3225) 

Gaufres  brisselets  a  la  creme  f  ramboisee  (3223) 

GLACES. 

Bacchus  (3590) 

Le  Puits  (3599) 

Toronchino  Procope  (3583) 

Tutti  frutti  (3586) 

Napolitaine  (3569) 

Mokabelle  (3565) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Corne  d'Abondance  (3635) 
Chariot  garni  de  pommes  d'api  (3632) 
Fruits  (3699) 
Bonbons  (3642) 
Devises  (3653) 
Dessert 


FEVRIER.  4,97 

BUFFET  POUR  200  PERSONNES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme  (189) 
Huitres  frites  au  beurre  (1061) 
Rissoles  de  palais  de  veau  (952) 

Bouchees  a  la  Victoria  (942) 

Terrapene  a  la  Baltimore  (1083) 

Crabes  durs  farcis  a  la  Caroline  (1003) 

Ruddy  duck  roti  (2066) 

Cafe  (3701) 

FROID. 

Galantine  d'anguilles  (2488) 

Canetons  aux  olives  Espagnole  (2482) 

Faisan  farci  a  la  Prince  Orloff  (2553) 

Chaudfroid  de  filets  de  canards  a  tote  rouge 

(2460) 

Filets  de  poulet  Mirebel  (2464) 
Mousseline  de  homard  (2537) 

Aspic  de  foies  gras  (2411) 

Coquilles  de  chapon  a  la  gelee  (2590) 

Tartines  de  pain  de  seigle  beurrees  (820) 

Petits  pains  garnis  de  rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

ENTREMETS   DE   DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  Mille  feuilles  Pompadour  (3247) 

Gateau  Favart  (3263) 
Gelee  au  Madere  (3186) 
Charlotte  Russe  (3145) 

GLACES. 

Ananas  en  surprise  (3595) 
Turban  a  la  vanille  et  aux  fraises  (3600) 

Madnlian  (3562) 
Pommes  de  terre  (3575) 

Pasteque  (3589) 
Biscuit  glace  a  la  Diplomate  (3435) 

PIECES   MONTEES. 

Vase  en  sucre  file  (3637) 

Moulin  a  vent  (3639) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF 


157 


MARS.  4r98 

BUFFET  POUR  250  PERSONNEL 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  clair  (187) 
Brochettes  d'huitres  aux  truffes  (1058) 

Rissoles  de  volatile  (948) 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  (1085) 

Homard  a  1'Americaine  (1024) 

Timbales  a  la  La  Valliere  (2357) 

Cafe  (3701) 

FROID. 

Sautnon  a  la  Farragut  (2581) 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  legumes  mayonnaise  (2441) 

Buisson  de  crustaces  a  la  Rochelaise  (2572) 

Timbale  de  faisan  aux  truffes  (2605) 

Galantine  a  la  Berger  (2499) 
Langue  de  boeuf  Ecarlate  en  Arcade  (2607) 

Chaudfroid  de  mauviettes  (2454) 

Pate  de  longe  d'agneau  a  la  gelee  (2561) 

Cuisses  de  poulet  en  forme  de  caneton  ravi- 

gote  (2529) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  Favart  (3263) 
Biscuit  aux  amandes  (3229) 

Gelee  prunelle  (3186) 
Bavarois  aux  meringues  (3133) 

GLACES. 

Comtesse  Leda  (3548) 
Timbale  Chateaubriand  (3581) 

Panier  de  Perrette  (3629) 
(Eufs  a  la  Tremontaine  (3550) 

Mignonne  (3564) 
Biscuit  tutti  frutti  (3585) 

PIECES   MONTEES. 

Corbeille  garnie  de  fruits  (3628) 

Panier  garni  d'oranges  (3570) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

1  )ossert 


AVRIL.  4:99 

BUFFET  POUR  150  PERSON  NES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme  (189) 

Huitres  a  la  poulette  (1067) 

Palmettes  a  la  Varsovienne  (924) 

Rissoles  de  palais  de  boeuf  (952) 

Bouchees  Turbigo  (941) 

Terrapene  a  la  Crisfleld  (1084) 

Cafe  (3701) 

FROID. 

Saumon  a  la  Russe  (2586) 
Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Noailles  (2437) 

Galantine  de  pigeon  (2496) 

Jambon  truffe  a  la  Florian  (2523) 

Dinde  en  daube  a  la  Verneuil  (2615) 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  1'aspic  (2473) 

Petites  caisses  de  grives  a  la  gelee  (2449) 

Aspic  de  faisan  (2417) 
Salade  de  homard  a  1'Americaine  (2638) 

Mayonnaise  de  poulet  (2625) 
Sandwichs  de  viandes  variees  (615) 

ENTREMETS   DE    DOUCEUR   ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  Genoise  (3239) 
Gel<§e  a  la  Russe  (3182) 

Gauf  res  brisselets  a  la  creme  f  ramboisee  (3223) 
Gateau  Jamaique  (3242) 

GLACES. 

Bacchus  (3590) 

Le  Puits  (3599) 

Bombe  a  la  Romaine  (3442) 

Fiori  di  latte  fleurs  de  violettes  (3470) 

Plombiere   Montesquieu  aux  pralines  et  aux 

pistaches  (3480) 
Parfait  au  cafe  (8479) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Le  Char  des  Cygnes  (3634) 
Bateau  bon  voyage  (3631) 

Fruits  (3699) 
Bonbons  (3643) 
Devises  (3653) 
Dessert. 


158 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


MAT.  50O     4. 

BUFFET  POUE  400  PERSONNES. 

MENU. 

CIIAUD. 

Bouillon  clair  (187) 

bucines  orangees  a  la  Philadelphie  (994) 
Moules  aux  fines  herbes  gratinees  (1050) 
Croquettes  de  canetons  a  la  Muser  (881) 

Bouchees  aux  crevettes  (935) 

Crabes  durs  farcis  aux  champignons  (1004) 

Cafe  (3701) 

FROID. 

Saurnon  a  la  Seymour  (2584) 

Grenadins  filet  de  boauf,  Rochambeau  (2439) 

Paon  roti  et  pare  de  son  plumage  (2552) 

Pate"  de  filets  d'oie  Adolphe  Hardy  (2557) 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  1'Imperiale  (2471) 

Terrine  de  noix  de  Jambon  (2597) 

Poulet  Ecarlate  a  la  Derenne  (2463) 

Aspic  de  veau  aux  artichauts  macedoine  (2421) 

Sandwichs  (811) 
Rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  a  la  gelee  meringue  (3243) 

Gelee  aux  f  raises  (3183) 

Baquets  de  gaufres  a  la  cretne  (3128) 

Biscuit  a  1'Hernani  (3228) 

GLACES. 

Melon  Cantaloup  en  surprise  (3591) 

Nid  garni  d'ceufs  (3594) 
Ponding  a  la  Constance  (3490) 

Mousse  a  1'ananas  (3474) 
Biscuit  glace  a  la  d'Orleans  (3437) 

Alexandria  (3539) 
Petites  glaces  fantaisie  (3431) 

PIECES   MONTEES. 

Le  chariot  des  Colombes  (3633) 
Le  panier  de  Perrette  (3629) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Cafe  (3701) 


JUIK  501 

BUFFET  POUR  60  PERSONNEL 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  (187) 

Lucines  orangees  a  la  poulette  (995) 

Palmettes  a  la  Perier  (922) 

Rissoles  de  poisson  (952) 

Petits  pates  feuilletes  de  saumon  (945) 

Homard  roti  a  la  diable  (1030) 

FROID. 

Truites  de  ruisseau  a  la  Careme  (2611) 
Filet  de  bceuf  aux  croustades  macedoine  (2440) 
Cotelettes    d'agneau    au    chaudfroid    tomate 

(2475) 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Mirabeau  (2595) 

Celestine  de  poularde,  Talleyrand  (2450) 

Fricassee  de  poulet  chaudfroid  (2467) 

"  Pain"  de  foies  au  salpicon  (2547) 

Galantine  de  caneton  en  forme  de  poire  (2487) 

Sandwichs  assorties  (811) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  Moka  (3249) 

Gelee  a  la  Violette  (3185) 

Corbeille  en  Nougat  a  la  Creme  (3129) 

Pouding  Renaissance  (3210) 

GLACES. 

Poule  avec  pOussins  (3594) 
Lapin  en  Surprise  (3596) 

Arlequin  (3554) 

Mousse  aux  fraises  (3474) 

Souffle  glace  a  1'Alcazar  (3533) 

Asperges  (3540) 
Petites  glaces  fantaisie  (3431) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Vase  en  sucre  file  garni  de  fleurs  (3637) 
Moulin  a  vent  (3639) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


159 


JUILLET.  5O2 

BUFFET  POUR  80  PERSONNEL 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  clair  (187) 
Moules  a  la  Mariniere  (1046) 
Lucines  orangees  farcies  (997) 
Brissotins  de  volaille  au  supreme  (849) 

Bouchees  a  1'Audalouse  (934) 
Crabes  moux  grilles  beurre  ravigote  (1006) 

FROID. 

Truites  a  la  gelee  sauce  Tartare  (2612) 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  croustades  macedoine  (2440) 

Ballotine  d'agneau  en  forme  de  coupole  (2425) 

Cotelettes  de  veau  a  1'Anacreon  (2478) 

Pate  de  foies  gras  de  Strasbourg  (2564) 

Poularde  piquee  a  la  gelee  (2571) 

Galantine  d'oison  en  forme  de  melon  (2489) 

Jambon  glace  au  sucre  (2522) 

Sandwichs  (811) 
Petits  pains  garnis  de  rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

ENTREMETS    DE  DOUCEUR  ET    DESSERT. 

Biscuits  a  la  creme  (3137) 

Bavarois  aux  framboises  (3134) 

Gateau  Napolitairi  (3250) 

Gateau  Reine  (3256) 

GLACES. 

Ananas  en  Surprise  (3595) 

Delicieux  aux  noisettes  (3592) 

Souffle"  glace  Palmyre  (3535) 

Champignons  (3568) 

Mousse  aux  peches  (3474) 

f  ouding  a  la  Romanoff  (3497) 

Petites  glaces  fantaisie  (3431) 

PIECES   MONTEES. 

2  Vases  en  sucre  file  garnis  de  fleurs  (3637) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


AOUT.  503 

BUFFET  POUR  150  PERSONNEL. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme  (189) 

Moules  a  la  poulette  (1047) 

Lucines  papillons  frites  (998) 

Croquettes  de  dinde  (894) 

Bouchees  a  la  Reine  (938) 

Crabes  moux  sautes  au  beurre  (1006) 

Cafe  (3701)  The  (3704) 

FROID. 

Darne  de  saumon  historiee  (2576) 

Buisson  d'ecrevisses  (2572) 

Petits  aspics  aux  crevettes  (2422) 

Galantine  de  pintade  a  la  Lytton  (2490) 

Pate  de  caneton  a  la  Rouennaise  (2555) 

Poulet  saute  a  la  Sherman  (2468) 

Sandwichs  de  viandes  (811) 

Canapes  d'anchois  (777) 

ENTREMETS    DE   DOUCEUR   ET   DESSERT. 

Gelee  aux  fruits  et  au  kirseh  (3187) 
Chateau  framboise  (3141) 

Pound  cake  (3254) 
Pouding  Harrison  (3207) 

GLACES. 

Cantaloup  moule  (3591) 

Nid  garni  d'oeufs  (3594) 
Pouding  a  la  Serano  (3498) 
Mousse  a  1'Italienne  (3475) 

Spongade  Medicis  (3536) 
Petites  glaces  fantaisie  (3431) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Le  char  des  Cygnes  (3634) 
Bateau  bon  voyage  (3631) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


160 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBER  5O4r 

BUFFET  POUE  300  PERSONNEL 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme"  de  volaille  (190) 

Bouchees  a  la  Victoria  (942) 

Croquettes  de  ris  de  veau  (893) 

Homard  a  la  Newberg  (1037) 

Crabes  moux  frits  (1006) 

Cafe  (3701) 

The   (3704) 

FROID. 

Turbot  a  la  Eemoulade  (2613) 

Chaudfroid  de  tetras  (2457) 

Galantine  de  cochon  de  lait  (2498) 

Pain  de  perdreau  a  la,  Montgomery  (2548) 

Petites  caisses  de  be"cassines  a  la  ge!6e  (2448) 

Creme  de  homard  (2470) 

Pate"  froid  de  cailles  (2565) 

Perdreaux  piques  rotis  (2550) 

Salade  de  chapon  (2624) 

Sandwichs  (811)  Rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

Canapes  de  caviar  (777) 

ENTREMETS   DE   DOUCEUR   ET    DESSERT. 

Gelee  au  mavsala  (3186) 

Puree  de  porames  mousseuse  (3127) 

Gelee  aux  fruits  et  au  kirsch  (3187) 

Eiz  Mirabeau  (3213) 

GLACES. 

Corbeille  jardiniere  aux  Colombes  (3593) 

Cygne  aux  roseaux  (3597) 
Creme  spongade  a  la  Pare"pa  (8537) 

Mousse  aux  liqueurs  (3476) 

Bombe  aux  fruits  printaniere  (3441) 

Oranges  Posilipo  (3571) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Arbre  prodigieux  (3639a) 
Moulin  a  vent  (3639) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


OCTOBER  505 

BUFFET  POUE  250  PEESONNES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  (187) 

Huitres  a  la  Philadelphie  (1063) 
Croquettes  de  crabes  a  la  Parmentier  (879) 

Selle  de  chevreuil  rotie  (2194) 

Bouchees  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  Fran§aise  (940) 

Cafe  (3701) 

The   (3704) 

FROID. 

Tranches  de  sheepshead  a  la  gelee  (2589) 

Filet  de  mouton  a  la  Heury  Clay  (2541) 

Jambon  de  poulet  garni  de  zampino  (2525) 

Chaudfroid  de  perdreau  Beatrice  (2455) 

Hure  de  pore  (2570) 

Aspic  de  homard  (2414) 

C6telettes  de  faisan  Chaudfroid  (2477) 

Pate"  froid  de  brasses  (2569) 

Terrine  de  mauviettes  (2599) 

Sandwichs  (811) 
Pains  de  rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

ENTREMETS   DE    DOUCEUR   ET  DESSERT. 

Biscuits  de  Savoie  (3231) 
Gele"e  au  champagne  (3186) 
Creme  bain-marie  (3160) 
Gateau  mandarin  (3245) 

GLACES. 

Ananas  en  surprise  (3595) 
De"licieux  aux  noisettes  (3592) 
Pouding  aux  biscuits  (3488) 

Mousse  Se"miramis  (3471) 

Souffle  glace"  a  1'Alcazar  (3533) 

Asperges  sauce  marasquin  (3540) 

PIECES   MONTEES. 

2  Vases  en  sucre  file  (3637) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


BILLS    OF 


161 


NOVEMBER  5O6 

BUFFET  POUR  200  PERSONNES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme"  (189) 

Huitres  a  la  Hollandaise  (1066) 

Rissoles  de  ris  de  veau  (954) 

Becassiues  roties  (2159) 
Croquettes  de  brochet  a  la  Romaine  (890) 
Cafe  (3701) 
The  (3704) 

FROID. 

Saumon  Venitienne  (2587) 

Filet  de  boauf  a  la  Evers  (2435) 

Galantine  de  perdreau,  Elisabeth  (2493) 

Pate  de  lievre   daiis  un  plat  (2559) 
Cotelettes  de  homard  a  la  Lowery  (2476) 

Aspic  de  filets  de  caille  (2419) 

Filets  de  poulet  Renaissance  (2465) 

Chaudfroid  de  courlis  au  fumet  (2452) 

Estomacs  de  dinde  a  la  Gustave  Dore"  (2617) 

Sandwichs  (811) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  ET    DESSERT. 

Gel^e  au  sherry  (3186) 

Pouding  Castillane  (3206) 

Bordure  Caroline  an  champagne  (3140) 

Gateau  de  noisettes  (3241) 

Creme  de  riz  a  Tangelique  (3151) 

Marrons  a  la  creme  (3147) 

GLACES. 

Corbeille  jardiniere  aux  colombes  (3593) 

Le  cygne  aux  roseaux  (3597) 
Pouding  de  ris  a  1'Imperial  (3494) 

La  Grandina  (3556) 

Fiori  di  latte  a  la  fleur  d'orange  (3469) 

Sabayon  a  la  Cannetti  (3531) 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Brouette  de  fleurs  (3638) 
Chariot  de  pommes  (3632) 
2  Corbeilles  de  fruits  (3699) 

Glaces  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


DECEMBRE.  5O7 

BUFFET  FOUR  150  PERSONNES. 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  (187) 

Huitres  frites  au  beurre  (1061) 

Timbales  a  la  Dumas  (965) 

Bouchees  a  la  Reine  (938) 

Terrapene  Epicurienne  (1090) 

Poules  de  neige  roties  (2072) 

Cafe  (3701) 

FROID. 

Saumon   a  la  Avelane  (2579) 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Violetta  (2438) 

Galantine  de  perdreau  Clementine  (2491) 

Petites  caisses  de  foies  gras  (2229) 

Chaudfroid  de  cailles  Baudy  (2459) 

Cotelettes  de  becasses  Sarah  Bernhardt  (2480) 

Terrine  de  lievre  (2598) 
Aspic  de  cretes  et  rognons  de  coq  a  la  Mazarin 

(2410) 
Sandwichs  assorties  (811) 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  ET  DESSERT. 

Gateau  Roederer  (3257) 

Gelee  aux  peches  (3187) 

Timbales  Massillon  (3221) 

Pouding  a  la  Boissy  (3205) 

GLACES. 

Ananas  en  surprise  (3595) 

Delicieux  aux  noisettes  (3592) 

Manchon  Dejazet  a  la  creme  Venus  (3567) 

Biscuits  glaces  (3438) 

Glaces  assorties  (3538) 

Punch  granit  au  cafe  (3505) 

PIECES    MONTEES. 

Bateau  "Bon  Voyage"  (3631) 

Panier  de  Cerises  (3630) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Devises  (3653) 

Dessert 


162 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


SEPTEMBER.  508 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  150  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

HOT. 

Consomme  (189) 

Oysters  a  la  poulette  (1067) 

Sweetbread  cutlets  a  la  Talleyrand  (2272) 

Roast  woodcock  (2206) 

Pullet  croquettes  a  la  Wright  Sanford  (882) 

Tenderloin  of  beef,  royale  (1458) 

COLD. 

Salmon  with  Montpellier  butter  (2588) 

English  ham  with  jelly  (2524) 

Galantine  of  partridge,  sliced  (2492) 

Decorated  wild  boar's  head  (2618) 

Dressed  game  pie  a  la  Lesage  (2556) 

Chaudfroid  of  young  Guinea  fowl  (2453) 

Terrine  of  plover  and  larks  (2601) 

Small  "pain"  of  chicken  a  la  Freycinet  (2544) 

Mousseline  of  woodcock  (2540) 

Sandwiches  (811) 
Small  "pains"  of  Rillettes  de  Tours  (809) 

SWEET  DISHES  AND  DESSERT. 

Mousseline  biscuit  (3230) 

Greengage  jelly  3187) 

Chestnuts  with  cream  (3147) 

Gugelhopfen  cake  (3240) 

ICES. 

Hen  and  chicks  (3594) 

Rabbit  in  surprise  (3596) 

Excelsior  Biscuit  (3436) 

Printaniere  fruit  Bomb  (3441) 

Waddington  pudding  (3500) 

Chartreuse  mousse  (3476) 

CENTER  PIECES. 

Chariot  filled  with  lady  apples  (3632) 

Horn  of  plenty  (3635) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert 


Lady  cake  (3244) 


OCTOBER.  509 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  350  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

HOT. 

Cream  of  peas,  St.  Germain  (260) 

Bechamel  oysters  with  truffles  (1065) 

Rissoles  a  la  Demidoff  (950) 

Roast  plover  (2119) 

Patties  with  mushrooms  (937) 

Frog  croquettes  (884) 

COLD. 

Salmon  a  la  Regence  (2583) 
Tenderloin  of  beef  on    a  socle   Bouquetiere 

(2434) 
Voliere  galantine  of  pheasants,  Casimir  Perier 

(2423) 
Galantine  of  chicken  a  la  d'Orleans  (2486) 

Woodcock  a  la  Valere  (2619) 

Terrine  of  duck's  liver  a  FAquitaine  (2596) 

Aspic  of  minion  fillets  of  partridge  (2416) 

Fillets  of  sole  a  la  Mazagran  (2593) 

Assorted  sandwiches  (815) 

SWEET  DISHES    AND    DESSERT. 

Plum  cake  (3253) 

Peach  jelly  (3187) 

Cream  cornets  with  orange  (3148) 

Camper  crowns  (3156) 

ICES. 

Bacchus  (3590) 

The  Well  (3599) 

Banana  pudding  (3487) 

Bomb  with  maraschino  (3443) 

Mousse  with  macaroons  (3477) 

Apples  in  surprise  (3574) 
Waffles  with  vanilla  (3285) 

CENTER  PIECES. 

Basket  filled  with  candied  fruits  (3628) 
Perrette's  basket  (3629) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert 


Fruit  cake  (3238) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


163 


NOVEMBER.  51O 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  200  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

HOT. 

Cream  of  rice,  Cremieux  (249) 

Oysters  Viennaise  (1068) 
Palmettes  of  turkey  a  la  Bearnaise  (933) 

Turbigo  patties  (941) 

Terrapin  a  la  Trenton  (1090) 

Eoast  partridges  with  gravy  and  water  cress 

(2102) 
Coffee  (3701) 

COLD. 

Decorated  slices  of  salmon  (2577) 
Saddle  of  venison  a  la  Harder  (2573) 

Aspic  of  oysters  (2415) 
Chaudfroid  of  woodcock  with  f umet  (2452) 

Red  beef  tongue  with  jelly  (2609) 

Ballotines  of  quail  a  la  Tivolier  (2426) 

Terrine  of  wild  rabbit  (2604) 

Snipe  pie  (2567) 

Sandwiches  (811) 

SWEET  DISHES  AND  DESSERT. 

Breton  cake  (3232) 

Noyau  jelly  (3186) 
Apple  Flamri  (3166) 
Large  brioche  (3234) 

ICES. 

Hen  with  chicks  (3594) 

Rabbit  in  surprise  (3596) 

Plum  pudding  (3496) 

Grandina  (3556) 

Parisian  (3573) 

Gramolates  with  oranges  (3610) 

CENTER  PIECES. 

Basket  of  cherries  (3630) 

Wheelbarrow  filled  with  flowers  (3638) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert. 


DECEMBER.  511 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  400  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF   FARE. 

HOT. 

Chicken  consomme  (190) 

Oyster  rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour  (1054) 

Lamb  croquettes  a  la  De  Rivas  (888) 

Roast  quails  (2131) 

Crab  patties  (935) 

Timbale  a  la  Renaissance  (981) 

Coffee  (3701) 

COLD. 

Slices  of  salmon  with  jelly  (2578) 

Ribs  of  beef  in  Belle vue  (2432) 

Galantine  of  partridge  (2492) 

"  Pain  "  of  partridge  a  la  Montgomery  (2548) 

Chaudfroid  of  snipe  in  pyramid  (2461) 

Woodcock  cutlets,  Poniatowski  (2479) 

Mousseline  of  pheasant,  Princess  (2538) 

Pate  de  foies  gras  in  border  (2483) 

Chicken  legs  in  the  shape  of  ducklings  (2529) 

Sandwiches  (811) 

SWEET  DISHES  AND  DESSERT. 

Compiegne  cake  (3236) 

Prunelle  jelly  (3186) 

Apricot  rice  (3214) 

"  Pain  "  of  chestnut  a  la  Beotie  (3196) 

ICES. 

Algerian  timbale  (3580) 
Cauliflower  with  marchioness  rice  (3544) 

LSona  (3558) 
St.  Jacques  Cup  (3560) 

Corn  (3547) 
Pears  in  surprise  (3574) 

CENTER   PIECES. 

Chariot  filled  with  lady  apples  (3632) 
Horn  of  plenty  (3635) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert 


Pound  cake  (3254) 


164 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


JANUARY.  512 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  300  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 
HOT. 

Clear  bouillon  (187) 
Fried  oysters  a  la  Horly  (1060) 

Oyster  patties  (939) 

Scallops  a  la  Mariniere  (1076) 

Turkey  croquettes  (894) 

Roast  canvasback  (2055) 

Stuffed  lobster  tails  (1043) 

COLD. 

Salmon  a  la  Courbet  (2585) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  alaNoailles  (2437) 

"  Pain"  of  game  Diana  (2546) 

Bastion,  American  style  (2429) 

Chaudfroid  of  chicken  a  la  Clara  Morris  (2451) 

Cold  salmis  of  quails  a  la  Balzac  (2575) 

Terrine  of  partridge  de  Nerac  (2600) 

Galantine  of  pheasant  (2495) 

Rolls  filled  with  rillettes  (809) 

Buttered  slices  of  rye  bread  (820) 

SWEET  DISHES   AND  DESSERT. 

Macedoine  champagne  jelly  (3179) 
11  Pain  "  of  apricots  (3194) 

Pineapple  cake  (3252) 
Ministerial  pudding  (3209) 

ICES. 

The  helmet  (3598) 

Delicious  with  hazelnuts  (3592) 

Montelimar  with  hazelnuts  (3566) 

Ribambelle  (3576) 

Madeleine  (3561) 

Bice  with  maraschino  (3578) 

CENTER  PIECES. 

Basket  filled  with  candied  fruit  (3628) 
Basket  filled  with  tortillons  (3628) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 

Dessert 


"Wedding  cake  (3238) 


FEBRUARY.  513 

SIDEBOARD  FOR  200  PERSONS. 

BILL  OF  FARE. 

HOT. 

Chicken  consomme  (190) 

Broiled  oysters,  maitre-d'hotel  (1059) 

Scallops  a  la  Havraise  (1075) 

Palmettes  a  la  P<5rier  (922) 

Roast  redhead  ducks  (2063) 

Coffee  (3701) 

COLD. 

Salmon  a  la  d'Estaing  (2580) 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Violetta  (2438) 

«« Pain  "  of  game  a  la  Bartholdi  (2545) 

Aspic  of  tongue  a  la  Picquart  (2420) 

Chaudfroid  of  fillets  of  pheasant  (2456) 

Cutlets  of  kernel  of  lamb  in  Bellevue  (2472) 

Galantine  of  pullet  a  la  Mozart  (2497) 

Boar's  head  (2570) 
Chicken  mayonnaise  (2625) 

Sandwiches  (811) 

Small  fancy  rolls  filled  with  rillettes  de  Tours 
(809) 

SWEET  DISHES  AND  DESSERT. 

Syruped  baba  (3227) 

Sponge  cake  (3260) 

Californian  pineapple  jelly  (3178) 

Blanc  mange  a  la  Smolenska  (3138) 

ICES. 

Cantaloup  in  surprise  (3591) 
Nest  with  eggs  (3594) 
Stuffed  tomatoes  (3582) 

Sicilian  (3579) 

Ristori  rice  (3577) 

Marvelous  (3563) 

Granite  with  currants  (3611) 

CENTER  PIECES. 

Cornucopia  garnished  with  fruit  (3635) 
Wheelbarrow  filled  with  flowers  (3638) 

Fruits  (3699) 

Bonbons  (3642) 

Mottoes  (3653) 
Dessert 


Angel  cake  (3226) 


BILLS    OF    FARE. 


165 


RESTAURANT  BILL  OF  FAKE. 


JUNE. 

Coffee  (3701)  Chocolate  (3700) 

English  breakfast  tea  (3704) 


Arabian  racahout  (3703) 


SIDE  DISHES. 

Clams  (803)      Gherkins  (785)      Sandwiches  (811)      Radishes  (808)      Olives  (800)      Caviare  (778) 

Anchovies  (772)  Sardines  (817)  Lyons  sausage  (818)  Stuffed  olives  (801)  Marinated  tunny  fish  (831) 

Mackerel  in  oil  (797)  Mortadella  (818)  Arlps  sansa^  (fuz\ 


EGGS. 

Boiled  (2856)  Fried  a  la  Eugene  Andre  (2866) 

On  a  dish  (2909)  Fried  turned  over  a  la  sole  (2869) 

OMELETS:  Argentine  (2878)  With  clams  (2885) 

Cocottes  (2873)     Soft  eggs  with  puree  of  sorrel  (2951) 

FISH. 

Red  bass  water  fish  (1098)  Pike  perch  a  la  Durance  (1213) 


Aries  sausage  (818) 

Scrambled  a  la  Columbus  (2934) 
Hard  boiled,  Russian  style  (2865) 

With  bacon  (2879) 
Poached  eggs  with  gravy  (2931) 

Whitebait  (1310) 


Black  bass  a  la  Narragansett  (1095)  Mussels  a  la  poulette  (1047) 

Kingfish  a  la  bateliere  (1179)        Porgy  with  Chablis  wine  (1231)        Bluefish  a  la  Barnave  (1117) 

HOT. 

Pig's  feet  a  la  St.  Men<§hould  (1783)     Veal  cutlets  (1501)    Mutton  cutlets  (1590)     Beefsteak  (1368) 

Pork  chops  (1778)  Spring  lamb  cutlets  (1669)  Roast  squabs  (2018) 

Beef  palate  a  la  Bechamel  (1326)  Chateaubriand  (1380) 

Escalops  of  veal  a  la  Habirshaw  (2282) 

Mutton  breast  broiled  (1585)  Stuffed  breast  of  lamb,  Veloute  tomato  sauce  (1665) 

Frogs'  legs  a  la  poulette  with  mushrooms  (1019)  Chicken  sauted,  half  glaze  (1906) 

Squabs  a  la  Carolina  (2021)  Delmonico  sirloin  steak,  Spanish  style  (1377) 

Porterhouse  steak  (1362) 


COLD. 


Corned  beef,  pressed  (2430) 
Red  beef  tongue  with  jelly  (2609) 
Boned  turkey  (2499) 

Lamb  pie  (2561) 
Aspic  de  foies  gras  (2411) 


English  ham  with  jelly  (2524) 
Ribs  of  beef  Bellevue  (2432) 
Calf  tongue  a  la  Macedoine  (2610) 

Beef  a  la  mode  (2433) 
Roast  chicken  with  jelly  and  beef  tongue  (2469) 


SALADS. 

Tomato  (2666)  Water-cress  (2676) 

Chicken  mayonnaise  (2625) 


Celery  (2660) 

Russian  (2645) 


Mac<5doine  (2650) 


VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES:  Fried  (2787)    Mashed  in  snow  (2798)      Broiled  sweet  potatoes  (2832)      Saratoga  (2803) 
Beets  with  butter  and  fine  herbs  (2702)       Boiled  asparagus  with  Hollandaise  sauce  (2692) 

Succotash  (2731) 

BREAKFAST    CAKES. 

Brioches  (3269)        Wheaten  grits  (3280)        Hominy  (3280)         Oat  meal  (3280)        Muffins  (3414) 
Corn  bread  (3422)  Indian  cake  (3274)  Flannel  cake  (3273)  Waffles  (3284) 

DESSERT. 

Darioles  with  orange-flower  water  (3300) 
FRESH  FRUITS:  (3699)    Apples  Oranges  Bananas  Pears 


Watermelon 


CHEESE:  (2697)    American 


Brie  Stilton 

Glass  of  cream  or  milk. 


Peaches 

Roquefort 


Chester 


166  THK    EPICUREAN. 

RESTAURANT  BILL  OF  FARE. 


JULY. 

Clams  (803) 

SOUPS. 

Consomme"  in  cup  (189)  Pea  puree  with  croutons  (282)        Julienne  faubonne  (318) 

Fish  broth  with  clams  (370)  Clam  chowder  (300)  Chicken  okra  (299) 

Mock  turtle  thickened  (355)  Cream  of  corn  a  la  Hermann  (255) 

FISH. 

Fresh  mackerel  maitre-d'hotel  (1193)  Fried  soft  shell  crabs  (1006) 

Striped  bass  a  la  Bercy  (1101)  Baked  codfish  Duxelle  (1136) 

Kingfish  a  la  Bateliere  (1179)  Fillets  of  spotted  fish  English  style  (1233) 

Porgies  a  la  Manhattan  (1229)  Eels  a  la  Marechale  (1149) 

READY. 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Bordelaise  (1622)  Sirloin  of  beef  a  la  Dauphiness  (1350) 

Sausages  with  cream  potatoes  (1804)  Loin  of  veal  with  gravy  (1537) 

Bacon  with  spinach  (1771)  Chicken  fricassee  a  la  Bouchard  (1862) 

Poached  eggs  with  puree  of  chicken  supreme  (2932) 

TO  ORDER. 

Veal  cutlet  maitre-d'hotel  (1501)  Small  steak  plain  (1368) 

Mutton  cutlets  with  puree  of  chestnut  (1599;  Chicken  croquettes  exquisite  (877) 

Lamb  cutlets  (1669)  Minions  of  fillet  of  veal  with  mushrooms  (1510) 

Squabs  a  la  Briand  (2006)  Chicken  cocotte  (1832) 

Noisettes  fillet  of  beef  a  la  Berthier  (1411)  Frog's  legs  a  la  d'Antin  (1017) 

Mutton  breast  with  tomato  Andalouse  sauce  (1586)  Squabs  sauted  a  I'lmpromptu  (2010) 

COLD. 

Pickles  (785)  Radishes  (808)  Olives  (800)  Caviare  (778)  Celery  (779) 

English  ham  with  jelly  (2524)       Anchovies  (772)      Sardines  in  oil  (772)      Lyons  sausage  (818) 

Mortadella  (818)  Sandwiches  (811)  Mackerel  in  oil  (797) 

Stuffed  olives  with  anchovy  butter  (801)     Marinated  tunny  (831)     Spring  lamb  (2561) 

Red  beef  tongue  (2609)      Lobster  with  mayonnaise  (2638)      Boned  turkey  (2499) 

Goose  liver  pie  (2562) 

SALADS. 

Russian  (2645)      Tomato  (2666)      Chicken  mayonnaise  (2625)      Potato  (2654)      Macedoine  (2650) 

Water-cress  (2676) 

VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES:  Fried  (2787)  Saratoga  (2803)  Hashed,  with  cream  (2780)          Lyonnese  (2794) 

String  beans  a  1'Albani  (2825)  Boiled  asparagus  with  Hollandaise  sauce  (2692) 

Lima  beans  maitre-d'hotel  (2699)  Green  peas,  French  style  (2743) 

Green  corn  on  the  cob  (2730)  Stuffed  truffles  (2845) 

Tomatoes  broiled  with  mayonnaise  sauce  (2838) 

DESSERT. 

ICE  CREAM:  Toronchino,  Procope  (3583)  Pistachio  (3454)  Asparagus  (3540) 

Nesselrode  pudding  with  chestnuts  (3495)  Vanilla  (3458)  Chocolate  (3449) 

Tutti  frutti  (3586)  Tortoni  cups  (3584)          Neapolitan  (3569) 

Banana  cream  (3451)  White  coffee  (3460) 

WATER  ICE:  Raspberry  (3607)  Orange  (3605)  Lemon  (3604) 

PUNCH:  Roman  (3515)  Kirsch  (3510)  Lalla  Rookh  (3516)  Maraschino  (3510) 

Bucket  made  of  Chantilly  waffles  (3128)  Charlotte  russe  (3145) 

FRUITS:  (3699)        Watermelon          Muskmelon         Peaches          Bananas         Apples         Grapes 

CHEESE:  (3697)  American  Roquefort  Edam  Camembert  Pont  1'Eveque 

French  coffee  (3701)  Turkish  coffee  (3702) 


BILLS    OF    FARE.  167 

RESTAURANT  BILL  OF  FARE. 


MAY. 
Clams  (803) 

SOUPS. 

Consomme  Careme  (222)  Rice  a  la  Rudini  (343)  Sherman  (344) 

Bisque  of  crawfish  a  la  Bateliere  (202)  Cream  of  sorrel  with  stuffed  eggs  (262) 

Julienne  Mogul  (318)  Pea  puree  with  croutons  (282)      Croute  au  pot  (305) 

Chicken  okra  (299)  Chicken  okra  strained  (299)          Small  individual  soup  pots  (346) 

SIDE  DISHES—  COLD. 

Radishes  (808)        Olives  (800)        Caviare  (778)        Sardines  in  oil  (772)        Lyons  sausages  (8}  8) 

Marinated  tunny  (831)  Gherkins  (785)  Mortadella  (818) 

Stuffed  olives  with  anchovy  butter  (801)  Mackerel  in  oil  (797) 

SIDE   DISH—  HOT. 

Cromesquis  of  sweetbread,  Babanine  (872) 

FISH. 

Mussels  with  shallot  (1051)      Eels  broiled  tartar  sauce  (1150)  Planked  shad  ravigote  butter  (1255) 
Spotted  fish  Livournaise  (1282)  Weakfish  a  la  Brighton  (1308)     Fried  soft  shell  crabs  (1006) 
Blackfish  a  la  Sandford  (1115)  Lobster  a  la  Camille  (1028)          Sheepshead,  Buena  Vista  (1259) 

REMOVES. 

Roast  sirloin  of  beef  with  brain  patties  (1355) 
Rump  of  beef  Boucicault  (1337)  Pullet  in  surprise  (1987) 

ENTREES. 

Mutton  pie  Canadian  style  (2375)  Sauted  chicken  florentine  style  (1890) 

Mushrooms  crust  with  truffles  (2759)  Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Stanley  (1406) 

Hot  plover  pie  (2317)  Breasts  of  turkey  Donovan  (2037)  Squabs  a  la  Crispi  (2008) 

Frog  shells  (2347)  Sweetbread  a  la  St.  Cloud  (1566) 

SORBETS:  Lalla  Rookh  (3516)  Kirsch  (3510)  Maraschino  (3510)  Rum  (3510) 

ROAST. 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  Roederer  (1627)  Leg  of  yearling  lamb  with  gravy  (1715) 

Beef  ribs,  American  style  (1331)  Squabs  (2018) 

Duckling  (1921)  Partridge  broiled,  English  style  (2085)  Chicken  in  the  saucepan  (1881) 

COLD. 

Galantine  of  chicken  (2485a)    Trout,  tartar  sauce  (2612)   Terrine  of  duck  livers  a  PAquitaine  (2596) 
SALADS:  Lettuce  (2672)  Water-cress  (2676)  Mace"doine  (2650)  Chicory  (2668) 

VEGETABLES. 

Purslain  a  la  Brabancon  (2815)  Lima  beans  thickened  maitre-d'hotel  (2699) 

Potatoes  Parisienne  (2786)  Potatoes,  Anna  (2770)  Potatoes  half  glaze  (2784) 

Green  peas,  English  style  (2742)  String  beans  with  butter  (2829) 

Boiled  asparagus  with  Hollandaise  sauce  (2692) 

Succotash  (2731)     Cepes  baked  with  cream  (2724)     Stuffed  cauliflower  a  la  bechamel,  baked  (2715) 
Risot  a  la  Francatelli  (2979)     Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon  (2833)     Cardoons  with  half  glaze  (2710) 

Fried  eggplant  (2739)  Spaghetti  macaroni  a  la  Lawrence  (2966) 

Asparagus  tops  a  la  Mai  ri  tenon  (2695)  Corn  on  the  cob  (2730)  Spinach  with  cream  (2820) 

Macaroni  a  la  Brignoli  (2958)  Whole  artichoke  boiled  with  white  sauce  (2691) 

Macedoine  a  la  Montigny  (2755)  Sweet  potatoes  roasted  (2832) 

SWEET   ENTREMETS. 
HOT:  Pancakes  with  brown  sugar  (3077)  Glazed  apple  marmalade  (3126) 

COLD:  Blanc  mange  with  strawberries  (3139)  Bain  marie  cream  molded  (3149) 

Charlotte  Russe  (3145)  Cream  Malakoff  (3150) 

DESSERT. 

FANCY  CREAMS:  Biscuit,  Excelsior  (3436)  Basket  filled  with  oranges  (3570) 

Nesselrode  pudding  with  candied  chestnuts  (3495)  Biscuit  glace*  (3435) 

Neapolitan  (3569)  Plombiere  with  chestnuts  (3486) 

CREAMS:  Vanilla  (3458)  White  coffee  (3460)  Pistachio  (3454) 

WATER  ICE:  Lemon  (3604)  ,  Raspberry  (3607)  Pineapple  (3606) 

Assorted  cakes  (3364) 
Preserved  fruits  (3679)  greengages,  peaches,  pineapple,  quinces  (3679) 

Marmalade  (3674)  jelly,  Dundee,  peaches,  ginger,  Guava,  Bar-le-duc  (3678) 
Stewed  fruits  (3686)  pineapple,  peaches,  pears,  prunes,  apples,  with  jelly,  bananas, 

cherries,  chestnuts,  oranges,  orange  salad,  strawberries,  raspberries. 
Brandy  fruits  (3660)  greengages,  pears,  oranges,  strawberries  with  cream. 

CHEESE  (3697)  Stilton,  Brie,  Strachino,  Gorgonzola,  Gruyere,  Chester,  Gervais,  Port  Salut,  Holland 
French  coffee  (3701)  Turkish  coffee  (3702) 


168  THE    EPICUREAN. 

RESTAUEANT  BILL  OF  FARE. 

SUPPER. 

AUGUST. 
Clams  (803) 

HOT. 

Welsh  rarebit  (946)  Consomme1  in  cups  (189)  Golden  buck  (946) 

Stuffed  lobster  tails,  deviled  (1043)  Ramequins  (2975) 

Deviled  mutton  kidneys  on  skewers  (1620)  Stuffed  hard  shell  crabs  Carolina  style  (1003) 

Sweetbread  croquettes  (893) 

Chicken  legs  in  papers  (1876)  Croustades  a  la  Castillane  (895) 

Bondons  of  woodcock  a  la  Diane  (845)  Chicken  breast  a  la  Chevreuse  (1827) 

Squab  a  la  Briand  (2006)  Minions  of  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Baillard  (1400) 

COLD. 

Sandwiches  (811)          Caviare  (778)          Radishes  (808)          Mortadella  (818)         Anchovies  (772) 

Marinated  sardines  (831)         Celery  (779)         Tunny  (831)          Lyons  sausage  (818) 

Boned  turkey  (2499)        Caviare  canapes  (777)        Goose  liver  pie  (2562) 

SALADS. 

Lettuce  (2672)  Cucumber  (2661)  Water-cress  (2676)  Celery  (2660) 

Macedoine  (2650)  Cos  lettuce  (2675)  Lobster  American  style  (2638) 

Chicken  mayonnaise  (2625) 
Russian  (2645)  Tomato  (2666) 

DESSERT. 

Ice  Cream 

SHERBET:  Kirsch  (3510)  Lalla  Rookh  (3516)  Prunelle  (3510)  Maraschino  (3510) 

WATER  ICE:  Raspberry  (3607)  Pine  apple  (3606)  Lemon  (3604)  Orange  (3605) 

FANCY:  Pudding  Cavour  (3489)      Banana  in  surprise  (3541)      Plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau  (3482) 
Vanilla  (3458)        Chocolate  (3449)  Coffee  (3460)  Pistachio  (3454) 

Biscuit  glace  (3435)  Neapolitan  (3569) 

Charlotte  russe  (3145)  Madeira  jelly  (3186)  Apricot  flawn  (3170) 

FRESH    FRUITS  (3699):    Bananas,   pineapples,   apples,   oranges,   Niagara    grapes,    huckleberries, 

currants,  muskmelon,  watermelon 

CHEESE  (3697):  Stilton,  Gruyere,  Cream,  Strachino 
French  coffee  (3701)  Turkish  coffee  (3702) 


All  the  Epicurean  recipes  are  included  in  the  menus.  The  heading  of  each  recipe  being  in 
English  and  in  French  permits  any  person  not  thoroughly  versed  in  both  these  languages  to  com- 
pose his  bill  of  fare  in  either  the  one  or  the  other.  He  has  simply  to  make  his  selection  of  the 
necessary  recipe  and  by  referring  to  the  number  of  the  article,  write  his  bill  of  fare  in  English  or 
in  French  as  he  so  chooses.  In  wording  a  dinner  bill  of  fare  be  very  careful  to  denote  the  fish  or 
shell  fish,  the  butcher's  meat,  the  poultry  and  game  in  season,  alternating  white  or  brown  for 
each  course,  also  the  white  or  brown  sauces.  I  have  as  far  as  practicable  replaced  the  term  fillet 
by  breasts  for  poultry  or  game  and  aiguillettes  for  fish,  so  that  the  word  fillet  need  not 
be  too  frequently  repeated  in  the  same  bill  of  fare.  Oysters  can  be  omitted  from  the  bills  of  fare, 
also  cold  side  dishes,  salads  and  coffee,  besides  the  details  of  the  dessert  following  the  entremets 
need  only  be  mentioned  by  the  single  word  of  dessert. 


METHODS. 


(1).  BURNT  ALMONDS  AND  FILBERTS  (Amandes  et  Avelines  Pralines), 

Split  some  shelled  almonds  or  filberts  in  two;  if  almonds  are  used  mince  well  and  roast  lightly 
in  the  oven,  on  a  baking  sheet  without  letting  them  color,  then  mix  in  with  them  half  their  weight 
of  sugar  and  enough  egg-white,  so  they  be  entirely  covered  by  the  sugar.  When  the  burnt 
almonds  are  spread  on  cakes,  they  must  be  covered  over  with  sugar  and  glazed  in  a  brisk  oven. 

(2).  CONDE  ALMOND  OR  FILBERT  PREPARATION  (Appareil  a  OondS  aux  Amandes  ou  Aux 

Avelines). 

Put  into  a  vessel  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  one  ounce  of  vanilla  sugar,  four  ounces  of 
icing  sugar.  Dilute  this  compound  gradually  with  egg-whites,  in  such  a  manner  that  a  smooth 
running  paste  is  obtained,  and  beat  it  well  for  several  minutes,  so  that  it  becomes  a  consistent 
body.  To  this  add  six  ounces  of  dry  almonds  or  filberts,  shelled,  ground  or  chopped  up  very  fine. 

(3).  TO  CHOP  AND  SHRED  ALMONDS  (Pour  Hacher  et  Effiler  les  Amandes). 

Chopped. — When  the  almonds  are  partly  dry,  chop  them  up  and  sift  them  through  a  sieve 
(Fig.  94),  chop  again  all  that  remains  on  the  sieve  and  continue  until  there  be  no  more  to 
pass  through. 

Shredded  Almonds. — Are  freshly  peeled  almonds  dried  well  in  a  cloth,  then  cut  into  thin 
fillets  on  their  length,  or  else  put  them  into  a  special  machine  that  shreds  them  also,  but  they 
never  look  so  well,  as  the  machine  cuts  them  into  all  sorts  of  shapes,  while  with  the  knife,  they 
are  cut  into  uniform  lengths. 

(4).  ALMOND  MILK  (Lait  d' Amandes). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  almonds  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cold  water  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
orange-flower  water;  prepare  a  very  fine  paste  with  this  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of  water;  strain  the 
liquid  forcibly  through  a  napkin. 

(5).  TO  PEEL  ALMONDS/  PISTACHIOS  OR  FILBERTS  (Pour  Monder  les  Amandes,  Pistaches  on 

Avelines). 

In  order  to  remove  the  peels  from  almonds,  filberts  or  pistachio  nuts,  they  must  first  be 
plunged  into  boiling  water  and  left  on  the  fire  until  the  skin  detaches  easily  under  the  pressure  of 
the  finger,  then  drain  and  refresh  in  cold  water;  now  drain  and  peel  them  by  removing  the  skins 
wash  in  cold  water,  drain,  wipe  and  dry  in  the  heater  or  in  a  well  aired  place. 

For  Filberts  or  Nuts. — To  be  peeled  dry,  crack  the  shells  with  a  nut-cracking  machine,  being 
careful  not  to  break  the  kernel,  then  peel  them  dry  by  putting  the  nuts  on  a  baking  sheet  and 
pushing  it  into  a  medium  oven,  removing  them  immediately  the  outer  skin  detaches  when  the  nut 
is  rubbed  between  the  thumb  and  first  finger;  keep  them  either  whole  or  in  halves  and  use  for 
ice  cream  and  desserts.  Those  peeled  in  water  are  for  chopping,  or  splitting  in  two  for  nougats, 
also  for  cooked  sugar  pastes. 

(6).  TO  POUND,  CRUSH,  AND  COLOR  ALMONDS  (Pour  Piler  Broyer  et  Oolorer  les  Amandes). 

To  Pound. — Almonds  are  pounded  in  a  mortar  or  crushed  in  a  machine;  in  the  mortar  by 
wetting  a  few  at  the  time  with  either  eggs  or  liquids,  then  stirring  in  some  sugar.  In  a  machine, 
by  mixing  the  almonds  and  sugar  together  and  pouring  it  into  the  funnel  of  the  machine;  the  first 
time  they  should  be  barely  crushed,  pass  through  four  times,  tightening  the  cylinders  slightly  for 
each  turn,  and  the  last  time  the  almonds  should  be  reduced  to  a  paste. 

To  Color  Almonds. — Use  chopped  or  shredded  almonds  for  coloring.  For  pink,  dilute  a  little 
carmine  in  some  thirty  degree  syrup  with  a  little  kirsch;  rub  the  almonds  in  this  and  dry  them. 
For  violet,  use  red,  blue  and  maraschino;  for  orange,  yellow,  red  and  cura§ao;  for  lemon  color, 
yellow  and  noyau;  and  for  green,  spinach  and  orange  flower  water. 

(169) 


170 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(7).  TO  BLANCH  EIOE  (Pour  BlancMr  le  Biz). 

Before  blanching  rice  it  should  be  picked,  washed,  then  put  into  a  saucepan  and  moistened 
with  cold  water;  bring  the  liquid  to  boiling  point,  stirring  it  frequently  with  a  spoon  so  it  does  not 
adhere  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  and  let  it  boil  for  seven  or  eight  minutes,  pour  the  rice  into 
a  sieve  to  drain,  refresh  in  cold  water  and  strain. 

(8).  TO  BLANCH  VEGETABLES  (Pour  Blanchir  les  LSgumes). 

Vegetables  are  blanched  in  more  or  less  time  according  to  their  nature,  and  not  only  to  correct 
their  bitterness,  but  to  soften  them  as  well;  the  blanching  is  the  prologue  of  the  cooking  and  is 
accomplished  in  boiling,  salted  water,  either  in  a  saucepan,  a  tinned  copper  pan,  a  copper  untinned 
pan,  or  an  untinned  saucepan.  In  the  copper  and  untinned  pans,  only  the  green  vegetables 
should  be  cooked,  such  as  spinach,  green  peas,  string  beans,  fresh  asparagus,  in  fact  all  vegetables 
that  must  retain  a  pretty,  pale  green  color.  Artichokes  should  be  cooked  in  a  very  clean  well- 
tinned  saucepan.  To  blanch  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  onions,  shallots,  etc.,  plunge  them  in 
boiling  water  several  times. 

(9).  TO  BONE  POULTRY  OE  GAME  (Pour  D6sosser  la  Volaille  et  le  Gibier). 
Poultry  or  game  are  generally  boned  in  order  to  stuff  them  properly;  they  must  first  be  singed 
lightly,  the  legs  cut  off  as  well  as  the  pinions  and  neck,  keeping  the  skin  of  the  latter  as  long  as 
possible  ;  split  the  skin  right  along  the  back  so  as  to  free  the  carcass  on  both  sides,  using  a  small 
knife  for  this  purpose,  afterward  separate  the  stump  from  each  wing,  so  as  to  reach  the  fillets. 
When  the  fore-part  of  the  belly  is  detached,  separate  also  the  thighs  by  dislocating  them  at  the  first 
joint  adhering  to  the  carcass,  then  bone  the  fleshy  part  of  the  thighs  and  the  drum-sticks.  Cut 
the  carcass  down  as  far  as  the  rump,  so  as  to  detach  it  entirely,  and  if  these  instructions  are 
strictly  followed,  the  piece  of  poultry  or  game  will  be  found  to  be  entirely  boned,  and  the  only 
parts  now  to  be  removed  are  the  stumps  of  the  wings  and  the  large  nerve  found  in  the  flesh  of  the 
thighs,  and  detach  from  the  carcass  the  two  minion  fillets  from  which  you  remove  the  nerves. 

(10).  DISH  BORDERS  OP  NOODLE  PASTE,  COOKED  PASTE,  METAL,  ENGLISH  PASTE  OR 
GUM  PASTE,  DISH  BOTTOMS,  FOUNDATIONS,  SUPPORTS,  TRIANGLE  FOR  DRESS- 
ING TONGUES,  HATELETS  FOR  HOT  REMOVES  AND  ENTREES,  FANCY  FRILLS, 
AND  FAVOR  FRILLS  (Bordures  de  Plat  en  Nouilles  Pate  Cuite,  et  en  Metal,  Pate 
Anglaise  et  Pastillage,  Fonds  de  Plats  et  Supports,  Crouton  Triangle  pour  Dresser  les 
Langues,  Hatelets  pour  Releve"s  et  Entrees  Chauds,  Boufi'ettes  et  Manchettes). 

Several  kinds  of  borders  are  used  in  the  kitchen  for  the  purpose  of  decorating  dishes;  those 
most  employed  are  cut  out  with  a  pastry  cutter  from  a  band  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142.)  To  make 

noodle  paste  borders  requires  ingenuity,  although  it  is  not  difficult.     First  it  needs  a 

good   noodle  paste  of  a  fine  color  and  very  smooth;  divide  it  in  several  parts  and  roll 

these  into  sausage  shapes,  then  flatten  down  with  a  rolling  pin  drawing  them  out  to  a 

sufficient  length  so  the  band 

can  reach  all  around  the  basin 

of  the  dish  ;    then  cut  these 

bands  into  the  desired  width 

keeping    them    exceedingly 

straight ;    roll    them  over  on 

themselves   without    pressing, 

then  unroll  slowly  on  to  a  paper 

band  to  design  them  with  a 

cutter  (Fig.  1),  rolling  up  the  cut  out  end  as  soon  as  finished  to  prevent  the  paste  from 
drying;  they  may  also  be  molded  in  molds  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

To  fasten  the  border  onto  the  dish,  push  a  string  of  repere  (No.  142)  through  a  cornet  around 
the  basin  of  the  dish  exactly  where  the  border  is  to  stand  upright;  place  the  dish  on  top  of  a  cool 
part  of  the  range  and  unroll  the  cut-out  band  speedily  onto  the  repere  to  fasten  it  on  in  an  upright 
position,  attach  the  two  ends  together,  then  bend  the  band  outward  with  the  fingers  to  give  it 
sufficient  splay,  turning  it  around  all  the  time  until  it  is  dry  enough  to  stand  by  itself,  then  cover 
over  to  prevent  the  border  from  drying. 

Another  style  of  border  (Fig.  3)  greatly  admired  is  made  of  cooked  white  paste  (No.  131)  also 
carved  out  with  the  pastry  cutter,  but  under  more  simple  conditions  and  is  more  resisting.  These 
are  very  appropriate  for  entrees  having  an  abundance  of  garnishing  or  a  plentiful  supply  of  gravy, 
thereby  requiring  a  more  resisting  substance  than  noodle  paste.  This  kind  can  be  seen  in  the 


FIG.  2. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


171 


different  entrees  illustrated  in  this  work,  but  more  specially  in  the  figure  representing  a  chicken 
a  la  Montesquieu  (Fig.  372).  But  a  style  even  more  used  and  certainly  far  more  practical  is  a 
border  made  of  metal  (Figs.  4-5-6) ;  they  are  fit  to  be  served  at  a  family  dinner  as  well  as  at 
the  most  luxurious  banquet  in  which  the  dishes  are  invariably  handed  round  to  the  guests,  for 


instance  those  viands  dressed  in  the  kitchen.  These  borders  are  movable  and  should  be  made 
the  same  size  as  the  basin  of  the  dish  for  which  it  is  intended.  These  borders  are  of  sterling 
silver,  but  they  can  be  imitated  in  plated  ware ;  let  it  be  well  understood  that  these  borders- 
can  only  be  placed  on  metal,  silver  or  plated  dishes. 


For  Borders  of  English  Paste  or  Gum  Paste. — Roll  out  the  paste  to  the 
desired  thickness  and  with  a  fancy  cutter  (Fig.  6A)  cut  out  some  pieces  and  dry 
them  on  an  even  surface  covered  with  paper ;  when  finished  place  them  in  closed 
boxes  in  a  dry  place  and  when  ready  to  use  push  a  string  of  royal  icing  on 
the  edge  of  the  basin  of  the  dish  or  platform  and  dress  the  border  very  evenly 
around. 


FIG.  6  A. 


Dish  Bottoms,  Foundations  and  Supports. — These  foundations  or  dish  bottoms  serve  for 
dressing  pieces,  removes  or  entrees,  so  to  raise  them  and 
give  them  a  more  elegant  appearance.     They  are  to  be 
made  either  of  bread,  rice,  hominy,  wood  or  tin.    Round 


FIQ.  7. 


FIG.  6. 


ones  for  entrees  and  ovals  for  removes  or  large  roasts.  The  height  for  entrees  is  about  one  and  a 
half  inches,  while  for  removes  they  are  to  be  two  inches  ;  those  of  wood  or  tin  are  to  be  covered 
with  noodle  paste,  those  of  rice  or  hominy  are  sculptured  or  carved  with  a  knife. 


172 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Molded  supports  are  to  be  prepared  for  boned  turkeys,  capon,  pullet,  etc. ;  these  are  of  an 
oblong  shape,  rounded  at  the  ends  (See  Fig.  9  A.);  the  longest  ones  intended  for  turkey's  are  nine 
and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  four  and  three  quarters  wide  and  two  and  a  quarter  high;  for  capons 


FIG.  10. 


FIG.  9. 

they  are  to  be  nine  inches  long,  four  and  a  half  wide  and  two  inches  high;  for  tenderloins  of 
beef,  ten  inches  long  by  four  wide  and  two  and  a  half  high;  for  hams,  they  are  oval  shaped,  twelve 
by  nine  and  three  high. 

Triangle  for  Dressing   Tongues,  etc. — For  the  largest  ones  have  the  three  sides  of    the 

triangle  each  twelve  inches  long ;  the  thickness  at  the 
base  is  three  inches  and  two  inches  at  the  top  ;  they  can 
be  made  either  of  rice  or  hominy  in  molds  having  the 
required  dimensions  (Fig.  10),  or  else  lower  ones  with 
the  following  proportions :  length  at  the  base,  twelve 
inches  by  eight  high;  cut  off  an  inch  and  a  half  from 
the  top  of  the  smallest  and  three  inches  from  the 
largest ;  this  will  form  a  platform  for  placing  the 
subjects  on.  They  can  also  be  made  of  bread  spread 
over  with  green  butter  and  then 
heavily  strewn  with  very  finely 
chopped  green  parsley.  Let  it 

be  well  understood  that  the  socles  called  dish  bottoms  are  not  intended  to 
be  eaten.  The  socle  has  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  dish  itself ;  it 
represents  an  accessory  made  for  the  purpose  of  raising  the  meats,  etc., 
dressed  over  it,  showing  off  advantageously  the  surrounding  garnishing. 

Hdtelets  (Skewers)  for  Hot  Removes  and  Entrees, — Hatelets  are  em- 
ployed either  as  an  ornament  or  else  a  garnishing;  they  are  applied  to 
removes  and  entree  dishes.  Hatelets  should  only  be  used  on  ceremonious 
occasions,  for  a  too  prodigal  use  of  them  is  apt  to  decrease  their  value. 
They  are  ornamented  with  unpeeled  truffles,  mushrooms,  or  cock's  combs, 
either  plain  or  double  hatelets  are  also  composed  of  Villeroi  quenelles, 
sweetbread  croquettes,  or  glazed  crawfish  ;  they  are  also  made  of  vegetables, 
carrots,  turnips  and  artichoke  bottoms  slightly  blanched.  Hatelets  in 
tended  for  garnishing  cold  pieces  are  to  be  found  in  the  chapter  on  cold 
dishes  (No.  2526). 

Fancy  Frills  for  Large  Pieces,  such  as  Leg  of  Mutton,  Ham,  etc. — Cut  a  band 
of  paper  twelve  inches  long  by  three  and  a  half  wide;  fold  it  in  two  on  its  length 
and  again  in  two,  this  making  a  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  wide  band,  cut  it  finely 
on  the  folded  edge,  or  else  pass  it  through  a  cutting  machine;  unfold  the  band, 
turn  it  over  so  that  the  cutting  detaches  better,  then  twist  this  band  in  a  spiral 
around  a  tin  tube ;  fasten  the  end  with  a  little  mucilage,  take  it  off 
the  tube  and  place  inside  either  a  straight  or  turned  up  sconce.  To 
make  these  sconces,  fold  a  thin  sheet  of  paper  six  inches  square  in  two, 
then  in  four,  then  again  fold  in  a  triangle,  beginning  at  the  pointed 
ends,  fold  it  once  more.  Cut  the  paper  pointed  shaped  beginning  from 
the  center  and  rounding  toward  the  bottom;  unfold,  and  with  the  blade 
FIG.  12.  of  a  small  knife,  press  down  each  fold  so  as  to  have  them  all  come  on 
one  side  and  thus  form  a  kind  of  pointed  funnel.  Unite  the  points  one  on  to  the  other,  closing 
and  pressing  them  together;  they  should  now  be  the  same  shape  as  when  cut;  place  one  in  th« 


FIG.  13, 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


173 


corner  of  a  fine  towel,  fold  it  over,  press  down  heavily  with  the  palm  of  the  left  hand,  then  pull 
the  napkin  quickly  away  with  the  right  hand;  by  this  operation,  and  the  pressure,  the  paper  is 
both  folded  and  goffered  at  once;  the  sconce  is  now 
made  and  it  only  requires  to  have  the  bottom  cut  off 
to  fit  it  into  the  frill.  (See  Fig.  13  and  14.) 

Fancy  Frills  for  Cutlets,  Chicken  Leys  or  Wings. 
—Cut  some  sheets  of  paper  five  inches  long  by  three 
inches  wide,  fold  in  two  across  the  length;  fold  once 
more  in  two;  cut  them  by  clipping  in  slits  one  thirty- 
second  of  an  inch  apart,  or  else  use  the  machine. 
Fold  this  band,  twining  it  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
slits  are  rounded,  then  fasten  with  a  little  mucilage; 
roll  the  frill  spiralwise  on  a  column-tube  or  a  piece  of 
round  wood  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Attach  the  end  of  the  paper  with  a  little  mucilage 
and  when  the  frill  is  properly  fastened,  cut  the  ends 
off  straight  so  that  they  are  all  of  one  length  (Fig.  12). 

Favor  Frills. — Have  a  small  piece  of  rounded 
wood  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  an  inch 
and  three-quarters  long,  tapered  on  one  end;  roll  on  this  spiralwise,  some  prepared  paper  a 
third  smaller  than  for  the  other  frills;  fasten  the  two  ends  together  on  the  stick  and  trim  the 
paper  adhering  to  the  stick  with  a  small  ribbon  fastened  on  in  the  shape  of  a  little  rosette.  These 
favors  are  for  chicken-breasts,  lobster  cutlets,  etc. 


FIG.  15. 


(11).  TO  PEEPAEE  BOUCHEES  (Pour  Preparer  les  Bouche'es). 

.  Roll  out  on  a  floured  table  some  six  turned  puff  paste  (No.  146),  keeping  it  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness;  let  this  paste  rest,  and  then  cut  from  it  a  dozen  round  pieces,  using  a  channeled  pastry 
cutter,  from  two,  to  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  (Fig.  16).  Turn  these  over  on  to  a  wet 
baking  sheet,  leaving  them  a  short  distance  apart,  and  egg  over  the  surfaces  with 
a  brush.  Trace  on  them  quickly  a  ring  using  a  smooth,  well  heated  pastry 


FIG.  16. 


FIG.  17. 


FIG.  18. 


cutter  (Fig.  17),  so  that  the  incision  is  clear,  and  with  a  small  knife  trace  three  lines  in  the 
inside  of  this  ring  (Fig.  18) ;  put  the  baking  sheet  into  an  oven,  not  excessively  hot,  and  cook  the 
bouchees  for  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes;  detach  them  from  the  baking-sheet,  slipping  a  knife 
underneath  each  one,  open  at  once  to  empty  them,  save  the  covers,  and  keep  warm  until  needed. 

(12).  TO  BEAIZE  OE  POELEE,  SMOTHEE  OE  SAUTEE  (Pour  Braiser,  Poeler,  Etuver  on  Sauter). 

Braizing  meat  is  to  cook  a  piece  of  meat  in  a  saucepan,  lining  the  bottom  with  bardes  or  slices 
of  fat  pork,  slices  of  veal,  carrots  and  onions  cut  in  slices,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
bay  leaves,  a  little  thyme,  chives  and  one  onion  with  cloves  in  it.  Arrange  the  meat,  fowl  or 
game  on  top  of  these  and  moisten  with  some  broth,  then  re-cover  the  meat  with  more  bardes  of 
fat  pork  ;  these  meats  must  be  cooked  slowly  in  a  slack  oven,  or  by  placing  hot  coals  on  the  cover. 

Poeler. — Cut  up  one  pound  of  breast  of  pork  and  half  a  pound  of  raw  ham,  into  half  inch 
squares;  six  ounces  of  carrot,  four  ounces  of  onion  in  half  inch  squares,  two  bay  leaves,  the  same 
quantity  of  thyme,  a  bit  of  mace,  two  cloves  and  some  basil,  the  whole  of  these  aromatics  tied 
inside  a  bunch  of  parsley.  Melt  the  pork  with  the  vegetables  and  bouquet,  not  letting  it  color, 
then  place  on  top  a  fat  pullet  prepared  and  trussed  as  for  an  entree,  covering  the  breasts  with  slices 
of  peeled  lemon,  and  bardes  of  fat  pork  tied  on  with  a  string;  pour  over  some  fat  broth  from  the 
stock-pot  and  also  some  white  broth  to  moisten  to  half  the  height,  being  careful  to  renew  the 
moistening  at  times  so  that  the  same  quantity  always  remains. 

Smothering  meat  is  to  cook  it  slowly  in  a  good  stock  without  evaporation  taking  place,  so  that 
it  cooks  entirely  and  retains  its  natural  flavor.  Smothered  meats  must  always  be  thoroughly  cooked. 


174  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Banter. — Either  in  a  sauteuse  or  in  a  pan;  let  the  article  cook  rapidly  on  a  quick  fire 
tossing  backward,  forward,  and  frequently.  We  saute*  potatoes,  etc.  Chickens  or  tenderloin  are 
sauted  either  in  fat  or  oil  on  a  moderate,  but  well  regulated  fire,  turning  the  meats  over  when 
they  are  a  fine  color. 

(13),  TO  BREAD  WITH    BREAD  CRUMBS,   ENGLISH,  PLOUR,  MILANESE  CRACKERS  AND 

DEVILED  (Pour  Paner  a  la  Pamire,  k  1'Anglaise,  k  la  Farine,  &  la  Milanaise,  &  la  Poudre  de  Cracker 

et  a  la  Diable\ 

Bread  Crumbs. — We  generally  bread  crumb  all  substances  that  are  to  be  broiled  or  fried;  if 
for  broiling,  they  must  first  be  coated  with  oil  or  melted  butter,  then  laid  in  bread  crumbs,  or 
white  breading,  or  else  in  bread  raspings,  or  brown  crumbs  as  explained  below. 

For  substances  to  be  fried,  such  as  croquettes,  roll  them  first  in  white  bread  crumbs,  then  dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs  strained  through  a  Chinese  strainer,  or  else  put  four  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  salt, 
pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  the  same  quantity  of  water,  and  strain  all  through  a  strainer. 

Drain  quickly  and  roll  them  again  in  white  bread  crumbs,  and  smooth  the  surfaces  either  by 
rolling  them  on  a  table  or  else  use  the  blade  of  a  knife. 

To  Bread  Crumb,  English  Style. — Use  only  the  yolk  of  the  eggs  instead  of  whole  ones,  mix- 
ing for  each  ten  yolks,  ten  ounces  of  melted  butter. 

White  Bread  Crumb. — Is  used  for  breading  meats,  fish  and  all  substances  to  be  fried;  this 
breading  is  prepared  with  slightly  stale  bread,  cutting  off  the  crusts,  and  grating  or  rubbing  the 
crumbs  in  a  cloth,  then  passing  it  through  a  sieve  (Fig.  95.),  it  must  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place, 
spreading  it  out  and  stirring  at  times. 

Brown  Bread  Crumbs. — Is  prepared  with  white  bread  dried  in  a  heater  and  slightly  browned 
in  a  very  slack  oven  and  afterward  pounded  and  sifted  through  a  sieve  (Fig.  95). 

To  Bread  with  Flour. — Dip  the  articles  such  as  fish,  etc.,  in  seasoned  milk,  then  roll  them 
in  flour.  For  egg-plant,  roll  them  merely  in  flour,  omitting  the  milk. 

To  Bread  Crumb  a  la  Milanaise. — Mix  bread  crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  cheese,  half 
and  half;  dip  the  substances  to  be  breaded,  in  melted  butter,  then  lay  them  in  the  cheese  and 
bread-crumb  mixture,  equalizing  well  the  crumbs  with  the  blade  of  a  knife. 

To  Bread  with  Powdered  Crackers. — Dip  the  substance  in  beaten  egg  and  its  equal  quantity 
of  milk  and  then  roll  them  in  powdered  crackers. 

To  Bread  a  la  Diable  (deviled). — Season  first  the  substances,  then  coat  them  over  with  mus- 
tard and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  them  lastly  in  bread-crumbs. 

(14).  BREASTS  OF  PORK  SALTED  AND  SMOKED,  ENGLISH  BACON  (Lard  de  Poitrine  Sal6  et 

Fume".  Petit  sa!6  k  I'Anglaise). 

If  needed  for  summer  use,  begin  toward  the  end  of  March  to  dry-salt  some  breasts  of  pork  for 
four  days,  then  pack  them  tight  in  a  salting  tub  and  cover  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  salt.  Pour 
over  them  a  freshly  made,  and  highly  salted  brine,  place  on  top  a  perforated  cover,  and  lay  over 
some  heavy  stones,  so  that  the  breasts  are  entirely  submerged,  and  leave  them  in  this  state  until 
needed,  setting  the  tub  in  a  cool  well-aired  place. 

This  salt  pork  will  keep  well  until  the  fall,  although  it  will  be  much  saltier  than  if  prepared  in 
the  usual  way.  The  usual  way  is  to  wash  the  breasts  and  put  them  in  brine  in  a  special  salting 
tub  without  any  other  meat;  use  a  fork  to  remove  them  from  the  brine,  as  the  hands  cause  fermen- 
tation, and  when  the  salt  pork  is  needed  for  use,  it  can  be  unsalted  in  cold  water  for  several  hours 
or  till  sufficiently  done.  Bacon  or  smoked  salt  pork  is  prepared  the  same,  putting  it  in  a  brine 
half  as  strong  and  keeping  it  in  a  50  degree  Fahrenheit  temperature,  but  no  more.  Drain  and  dry 
in  an  aired  place,  then  smoke  for  three  days  in  the  cold. 

(15).  BRINE  (Sanmure). 

Brine  is  used  for  the  preservation  of  meats  and  at  the  same  time  to  give  them  the  taste  of  any 
preferred  aroma;  for  this  reason  we  select  among  the  many  ways  that  are  employed  in  different 
countries,  one  that  we  are  sure  will  answer  for  our  present  needs. 

Boil  in  a  large  kettle  twenty-five  quarts  of  water,  twenty-four  pounds  of  salt,  two  pounds  of 
saltpetre,  three  pounds  of  brown  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  carbonate  of  soda.  Into  a  bag  put  a 
mixture  weighing  ten  ounces,  including  thyme,  bayleaf,  sage,  rosemary,  juniper  berries,  savory, 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  175 

having  more  of  each  as  desired,  or  less,  if  a  certain  taste  displeases.  After  the  salt  is  dissolved, 
leave  the  liquid  to  cool  and  then  weigh  it  with  a  salt  weight;  with  this  it  should  be  twelve  degrees. 

To  salt  the  meats,  be  careful  to  accomplish  this  when  dry,  by  rubbing  the  meat  with  salt  and 
a  little  saltpetre,  and  then  let  rest  for  twenty-four  hours  before  putting  it  in  brine.  Strain  the 
brine  and  cover  all  the  salted  parts  and  leave  it  in  a  cool  place  during  the  operation.  The  time 
needed  for  salting  is  according  to  the  size  of  the  pieces. 

A  ham  weighing  seventeen  pounds  requires  twenty-five  days;  a  breast  weighing  twelve  pounds 
requires  fifteen  days ;  a  shoulder  weighing  fifteen  pounds  requires  twenty  days. 

These  indications  are  for  meats  to  be  eaten  unsmoked.  In  case  they  should  be  smoked  leave 
them  ten  days  longer.  Soak  for  twelve  hours  in  cold  water  and  then  hang  them  in  a  smoking 
room  or  else  in  a  big  chimney,  having  them  smoke  slowly  with  oak  shavings  mixed  with  thyme, 
bayleaf,  sage,  etc. 

To  Salt  Hams. — Put  into  a  large  kettle  one  pound  of  salt,  four  ounces  of  saltpetre,  six  ounces 
of  brown  sugar,  thyme,  bayleaf.  basil,  two  ounces  of  juniper  berries,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
botanic  calament,  all  tied  up  in  a  bag,  and  when  the  salt  has  dissolved  by  boiling,  remove  from 
the  fire,  let  cool  to  settle  the  brine  and  then  pour  off  the  clear  part.  Burn  some  aromatic  herbs 
in  a  barrel,  put  in  the  hams,  pour  the  brine,  already  strained  through  a  sieve,  over,  close  the 
barrel  and  leave  it  for  eighteen  days;  drain  out  the  hams,  hang  them  up  for  twelve  days  in  a 
well-aired  cool  place,  then  hang  them  in  the  chimney  for  twenty  days.  Wrap  them  in  sheets  of 
paper  and  hang  in  a  dry  place. 

For  Winter  Hams.  — These  hams  can  only  be  kept  during  the  winter.  Have  two  hundred 
pounds  of  small  corn-fed  hams;  rub  over  well  with  salt,  then  put  them  into  a  barrel  and  leave  them 
for  three  clays  in  a  very  cool  place.  Three  days  later  put  them  into  another  barrel,  cover  over  with 
salt  brine,  having  sufficient  salt  to  allow  a  potato  to  float  on  the  surface;  the  hams  must  be  en- 
tirely immersed  in  the  brine,  cover  with  a  board  and  a  weight  atop.  Twelve  days  after  change 
them  into  another  barrel  and  pour  the  brine  again  over,  this  is  so  that  they  change  positions  and 
salt  easier. 

After  another  lapse  of  twelve  days,  drain  and  put  them  to  soak  in  cold  water  for  twelve 
hours;  drain  once  more,  leave  to  dry  in  the  open  air  for  eight  days,  then  smoke  them  in  a  smoke 
house  for  two  days  with  hickory  wood. 

(16).  OLAKIFIED  AND  PUBIFIED  BUTTER  (Beurre  Olarifie"  et  Epure"). 

Clarified. — To  clarify  butter  it  should  first  be  melted  so  as  to  extract  all  the  buttermilk, 
letting  it  cook  slowly;  skim  and  when  well  despumated  from  all  its  impurities  and  it  begins  to 
smoke  then  it  is  ready;  strain  it  through  a  fine  piece  of  linen  and  keep  to  use  when  needed. 

Purified. — Melt  some  butter  in  a  deep  saucepan,  boil  it  for  two  or  three  minutes,  remove,  let 
stand  to  settle,  then  skim  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  pouring  off  the  top  only  so  to  leave  the 
sediment  on  the  bottom. 

(17).  BUTTER  FOR  BUTTERING  MOLDS  (Beurre  Pour  Beurrer  les  Moules). 
Melt  one  pound  of  veal  kidney  suet  by  chopping  it  up  finely,  then  putting  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  pint  of  water  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  occasionally  to  prevent  its  fastening  on  to  the  bottom 
of  the  saucepan  and  when  the  fat  is  limpid,  add  the  same  weight  of  fresh,  saltless  butter;  stir 
until  the  butter  and  fat  are  perfectly  clear. 

Cold  Butter  for  Buttering  Molds.  — It  suffices  only  to  knead  some  unsalted  butter  on  the  table 
to  extract  all  its  moisture  and  give  it  body,  then  put  it  into  a  cloth,  sponge  it  off,  put  it  in  a  pan 
in  a  warm  temperature  and  work  it  until  it  becomes  soft  as  cream. 

(18).  TO  PREPARE  LIQUID  CARAMEL  (Caramel  Liquide). 

Liquid  caramel  is  most  necessary ;  it  is  used  for  coloring  broths,  gravies  and  even 
sauces,  when  their  tints  are  found  to  be  too  light,  still  caramel  should  be  used  with  discre- 
tion, for  it  is  apt  to  give  a  bitter  taste  to  the  colored  liquids  into  which  it  is  added.  Put  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  copper  pan,  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire,  then  remove  it  on  to  a 
slower  one  to  let  cook  until  it  becomes  quite  brown,  and  the  smoke  arising  from  it  is  whitish,  this 
is  a  sign  that  it  is  thoroughly  done.  Take  the  pan  from  off  the  fire,  moisten  the  sugar  proportion- 


176 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


ately  with  hot  water,  and  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  while  stirring,  and  cook  till  the  consistence  of  a 
light  syrup  is  obtained.  Caramel  should  be  kept  in  a  small,  we'1-closed  bottle,  having  a  cork  per- 
forated lengthwise,  so  that  when  the  bottle  is  turned  over,  the  liquid  can  drop  out  slowly  without 
it  being  necessary  to  uncork  it. 

(19).  TO  OARVE  Off  THE  TABLE  (Pour  Dfoouper  &  Table), 

Carving  should  be  done  with  ease  and  dexterity.  It  is  a  simple  operation,  yet  to  be 
a  perfect  carver  one  must  have  a  few  ideas  of  the  natural  construction  of  the  various  pieces  to  be 
cut  up.  The  meat  to  be  carved  must  be  laid  on  a  dish  without  any. sauce  or  garnishing,  so  as  to 
be  able  to  turn  it  around  to  the  most  convenient  position.  The  tools  indispensable  for  carving 
consist  of  a  solid  two  or  three-pronged  fork,  a  good,  keen,  sharp-bladed  knife  and  a  pair  of  carving 


FIQ.  21. 


Fia.  22. 


scissors.  It  is  essential  to  begin  on  the  most  practical  side,  and  also  to  be  able  to  distinguish  all 
of  the  best  parts  so  as  to  carve  without  deteriorating  from  their  appearance  or  without  injuring 
their  gastronomical  qualities. 

It  is  an  easy  study,  but  one  that  ought  not  to  be  neglected,  for  what  embarrasses  and  confuses 
a  carver  is  when  he  is  unable  to  find  the  different  joints,  or  else  when  he  begins  cutting  a  piece  of 
meat  against  the  grain.  It  is  to  facilitate  this  operation  that  we  deem  it  necessary  to  give  a  few 
hints  and  suggestions,  and  as  almost  each  piece  is  accompanied  by  a  design,  it  will  be  easy  to  learn 
how  to  carve  those  meats  usually  served  whole  on  the  table. 


(20).  PISH;  HOW  TO  CARVE  (Pour  De"couper  le  Poisson). 

A  general  rule  almost  always  observed  for  cutting  up  fish  at  table,  is  to  use  only  silver  imple- 
ments; this  to  be  specially  followed  for  boiled  and  braised  fish.  Fried  fish  is  the  only  kind  where 
knives  are  allowable.  To  carve  boiled  fish,  use  either  a  silver  fish  slice,  spoon  or  fork.  The  lines 


FIG.  23. 

traced  on  the  back  of  the  fish  (Fig.  23)  denote  in  what  direction  it  must  be  cut,  observing,  as  the  figure 
indicates,  that  it  should  be  on  the  opposite  side  to  the  belly,  for  on  this  part  the  fleshiest  meat 
is  found.  To  cut  up  a  bass,  salmon,  etc.,  or  any  fish  of  a  long  shape,  first  trace  a  line  following 
the  course  of  the  bone,  beginning  at  the  head  and  finishing  at  the  tail,  then  divide  this  back 
piece  into  slices  and  lay  each  one  on  a  separate  plate.  All  meats  taken  from  the  back  and 
sides  of  a  fish  are  fleshier  and  preferable  to  those  found  on  the  belly. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


177 


Fish  slice. — A  name  given  to  a  certain  utensil  with  which  fish  is  cut  at  the  table  to  serve 
it  on  plates.     These  slices  are  made  of  silver  or  silver-plate;  the  blade  is  broad  and  sharpened 


FIG.  24. 


on  one  side,    fastened  to  a  handle.     Smaller  slicers  are  also  placed  on  the  table  to  facilitate 
serving  flat  cakes,  flawns  and  tarts  that  are  difficult  to  lift  with  a  spoon  or  a  knife. 

(21).  PAETEIDGES ;   HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Decouper  les  Perdreaux). 

There  are  various  ways  of  carving  partridges;  when  young,  simply  divide  them  in  two  length- 
wise; when  large,  either  detach  the  hind  part  from  the  breast  or  divide  each  one  in  three  on  their 
length,  that  is,  cut  a  part  of  the  breast  with  the  leg  on,  so  to  leave  the  upper  breast  adhere  to 
a  part  of  the  carcass;  then  detach  with  a  pair  of  carving  scissors;  this  is  demonstrated  in  the 


FIG.  25.  FIG.  26.  FIG.  27.  FIG.  28. 

drawing.  If  the  hind  part  is  detached  with  the  breast,  then  this  should  be  divided  into  three 
parts  and  returned  to  their  original  position;  in  this  manner  it  is  difficult  to  perceive  that  the 
partridge  has  been  cut,  for  it  is  given  its  natural  form.  Large  partridges  need  simply  cutting 
in  four. 


(22).  PHEASANT  AND  GEOITSE  OE  PEAIEIE  CHICKEN ;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Dfcouper  un 

Faisan  une  Grouse  ou  un  Tetras). 

A  pheasant  can  be  carved  the  same  way  as  a  large  chicken  (Fig.  35),  which  means  to  cut  it 
in  five  pieces,  but  should  it  be  extra  large  two  fillets  can  be  taken  from  each  side  of  the  breast, 
leaving  an  upper  or  central  part  of  the  breast.  The  legs  are  generally  dry  and  tough,  yet  should 
they  have  to  be  served,  cut  each  one  in  two. 

Grouse  or  prairie  chicken  can  be  carved  exactly  the  same. 


(23).  EOAST  BEEF;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  EIBS  (Pour  Decouper  une  Piece  de  Cotes  de  Boeuf  Eoti), 


FIG.  29. 

American  roast  beef  is  taken  from  the  ribs;  sometimes  seven  ribs  are  served,  but  the  piece 
containing  only  six  is  far  more  advantageous,  while  the  four  rib  piece,  cut  from  the  short  loin  is 


178 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


better  still.  Roast  beef  must  be  carved  on  the  table,  or  else  on  the  dining-room  sideboard,  for 
when  cut  beforehand  it  becomes  dry  and  loses  the  best  part  of  its  juices.  Roast  beef  is  to  be  cut  in 
thin  slices,  leaving  a  small  piece  of  fat  adhering  to  each  one;  at  once  place  them  on  hot  plates  and 
be  careful  to  baste  with  a  little  of  the  gravy  flowing  from  the  meat  on  to  the  dish. 

(24).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF;  HOW  TO  CARVE  (Pour  De"couper  un  Filet  de  Bceuf). 
Whether  the  tenderloin  be  roasted  or  braized,  when  cutting  off  slices  for  the  guests,  do  not  let 
them  be  too  thick  or  too  thin;   remove  half  an  inch  of  the  sole  from  the  tenderloin  (Fig.  30)  and 


FIG.  30. 

cut  the  meat  into  even  thin  slices,  crosswise  if  the  tenderloin  be  large;  if  thin,  have  the  slices  cut 
on  the  bias,  but  do  not  penetrate  through  the  sole  piece;  pare  the  bottom  free  of  fat.  Serve  these 
slices  on  very  hot  plates  with  a  little  of  its  gravy,  independent  of  the  accompanying  sauce  or  gar- 
nishing, which  must  be  served  separately. 

(25).  HOT  HAM;  HOW  TO  CARVE  (Pour  Decouper  un  Jambon  Chaud). 

Ham  served  hot  is  better  when  carved  at  the  table,  for  it  retains  its  essential  juices.  The 
most  delicate  part  of  a  ham  is  the  kernel,  it  being  the  fleshiest:  this  is  to  be  cut  in  not 
too  thick  slices,  leaving  the  fat  adhering  to  the  meat,  then  placed  on  hot  plates;  serve  a  good 


FIG.  31. 

sauce  separately  in  a  sauceboat.  When  the  ham  is  accompanied  by  a  garnishing,  it  must  also  be 
served  separately  and  offered  to  the  guests.  In  order  to  have  a  ham  prepared  for  handing  round, 
it  should  first  be  cut  up,  then  reconstructed  the  same  as  should  a  leg  of  mutton. 

(26).  LEG  OF  MUTTON;  HOW  TO  CARVE  (Pour  Decouper  un  Gigot  de  Mouton). 
If  the  leg  be  roasted,  carve  it  at  the  table  or  in  the  dining-room.     It  must  be  served  on  a  dish 
without  gravy,  sauce  or  garnishing.     Seize  the  end  bone  of  the  leg,  having  the  kernel  uppermost, 
for  this  is  to  be  cut  first,  it  being  the  fleshiest  and  the  best  part  of  the  leg.     The  slices  must  be 


FIG.  33. 


broad  and  thin,  to  be  served  on  very  hot  plates,  each  one  accompanied  by  a  little  of  the  good  gravy 
flowing  from  the  meat.     Should  the  leg  have  a  garnishing  this  must  be  served  apart. 

Lamb  is  carved  the  same  way.  The  bone  end  of  the  leg  to  be  trimmed  with  a  specially  made 
handle,  or  else  a  fancy  favor  frill.  When  the  leg  is  to  be  presented  at  the  table,  it  should  be  pre- 
viously carved  and  reconstructed  to  its  original  shape. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


179 


Fia.  33. 


(27).  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON,  SADDLE  OF  LAMB,  AND  SADDLE  OF  VENISON,  EOASTED;  HOW 

TO  OAEVE  (Pour  D6couper  une  Selle  de  Mouton,  d'Agneau,  et  de  Ohevreuil  Eoti). 
The  dish  containing  these  roasts  must  be  placed  on  the  table  before  the  person  who  is  to  carve; 
the  loin  end  to  be  turned  to  the  left,  for  from  this  end  is  the  saddle  begun.  There  are  two 
ways  of  carving  the  roasted  saddle;  the  first  way  is  to  cut  the  slices  on  the  length  of  the 
meat,  slightly  bias;  see  braized  saddle,  Fig.  33.  They  to  be  neither  too  long  nor  too  thin. 
For  the  second  way,  the  slices  are  cut  the  entire  length  of  the  meat,  but  in  every  case  serve  on 
very  hot  plates,  adding  a  little  of  the  good  gravy  from  the  meat  and  serving  another  gravy  sepa- 
rately in  a  sauceboat. 

(28).  BRAIZED  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Decouper  une  Selle  de  Mouton 

Braisee). 

To  have  a  braized  saddle  of  mutton  carved  on  the  table,  it  should  be  placed  on  a  hot  dish  with- 
out any  gravy  or  garnishing;  first  make  two  incisions, 
one  on  each  side,  just  between  the  fat  of  the  flank  or  the 
kernel,  then  cut  the  large  fillets  across  in  rather  thick 
slices;  avoid  having  too  much  fat  on  any  of  them.     A 
saddle  of  mutton  can  be  carved  in  the  kitchen  without 
deteriorating  from  its  good  qualities;  in  this  case,  remove 
the  fillets  entirely,  pare  free  of  all  fat  and  cut  them 
across  in  half  inch  thick  slices;  return  them  to  their  original  position,  and  when  serving,  hand 
around  at  the  same  time,  both  garnishing  and  a  sauceboatful  of  gravy  or  sauce. 

(29).  LOIN  AND  KEENEL  OF  VEAL;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Decouper  une  Longe  ou  une  Noix 

de  Veau). 

Before  carving  a  loin  of  veal,  first  detach  the  tenderloin  and  kidney;  cut  the  loin  into  cross- 
wise slices,  not  too  thin,  and  place  each  one  on  a  hot  plate,  adding  a  slice  of  the  kidney  or  minion 
fillet,  also  a  little  good  gravy  or  any  sauce  accompanying  this  remove,  only  serving  it  separately. 

On  Fig.  327  will  be  found  a  larded  kernel  of  veal,  served  as  an  entree  on  a  round  dish.  In 
order  to  cut  the  kernel,  it  requires  to  be  held  firmly  by  the  fork  on  the  udder  side,  enabling  the 
larded  meat  to  be  cut  in  not  too  thick  slices.  Serve  on  hot  plates  with  a  little  gravy,  independent 
of  the  sauce  or  garnishing  that  accompanies  it. 

(30).  GOOSE  OE  DUCK;  HOW  TO  CAEVE  (Pour  De"couper  une  Oie  ou  un  Canard). 
Geese  and  ducks  are  carved  the  same  as  other  poultry;  when  young, 
their  legs  can  be  served,  but  if  large  and  older  it  were  better  to  leave  them 
undetached  on  the  carcass.  To  carve  a  goose  with  ease,  the  breast  must 
be  turned  toward  the  carver,  as  shown  in  Fig.  34.  The  meats  of  each  side 
of  the  breast  are  to  be  cut  in  not  too  thin  fillets  and  immediately  placed 
on  hot  plates,  then  basted  over  with  a  little  good  gravy.  When  the  geese 
are  stuffed,  add  to  each  plateful  a  small  piece  of  the  dressing.  If  serving 
the  legs  of  a  young  goose  or  duck  it  is  obligatory,  first  to  detach  them  from 
the  carcass  and  divide  in  medium-sized  pieces  with  the  carving  scissors. 
Large  tame  ducks  are  carved  the  same  as  geese,  and  young  ducklings  can 
be  separated  in  four  parts.  The  breast  alone  of  wild  ducks  is  used, 
lifting  one  fillet  from  off  each  side  or  both  fillets  may  be  divided  length- 
wise in  two ;  serve  these  on  a  little  good  gravy  taken  from  the  carcasses, 
after  breaking  them  up  and  pressing  out  all  the  juice ;  heat  this  gravy 
slightly  with  lemon  juice,  salt,  mignonette  and  finely  chopped  blanched 


FIG.  34. 
shallot. 


(31).  PIGEONS ;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Decouper  des  Pigeons). 

Young  pigeons  are  served  whole  or  simply  cut  lengthwise  in  two  ;  when  very  large,  separate 
the  hind  part  from  the  breast  part  and  make  two  pieces  of  each  of  these. 

(32).  PULLET  OE  OAPON ;  HOW  TO  OAEVE  (Pour  Decouper  une  Poularde  ou  un  Ohapon). 

A  large  piece  of  poultry  that  requires  to  be  carved  at  table,  calls  for  the  greatest  care  in  order 
to  have  all  the  pieces  neat,  even  and  of  a  proper  size,  neither  too  large  nor  too  small.  A  pair  of 
carving  scissors  will  be  found  indispensable.  To  proceed  with  ease  have  the  pieces  laid  on  a  dish 


180 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


in  front  of  the  carver;  should  the  pinions  be  left  on  the  wings,  cut  them  off  with  the  scissors,  then 
cut  from  the  breast  one  small  slice,  taking  the  minion  fillet  along;  from  the  remainder  of  the  breast 
cut  another  pretty  slice  through  the  entire  length.  If  the  breast  of  the  chicken  be  very  large  cut 
from  it  another  slice  without  encroaching  on  the  top  part  of  the  breast;  after  one  side  is  finished 
cut  the  other  without  changing  its  position  and  as  soon  as  the  fillets  are  all  removed,  detach  the 
thighs  from  the  carcass  by  disjointing  them,  but  first  cut  away  the  skin  from  the  carcass  just 
where  the  thigh  begins;  in  this  way  it  can  be  lifted  off  with  a  fork  assisting  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife.  As  soon  as  one  thigh  is  detached,  separate  the  leg  at  the  knee  bone  with  the  scissors  and 
divide  the  thigh  in  two,  either  across  or  on  the  length. 


FIG.  35. 


FIG.  36. 


FIG.  37 

The  carcass  can  also  be  divided  transversely  in  two  or  three  pieces.  The  whole  operation  must 
be  dexterous  and  speedy  as  all  eyes  are  apt  to  be  watching  the  carver,  therefore  he  must  not  hesi- 
tate, but  proceed  bravely  to  the  end.  When  a  medium-sized  fowl  is  to  be  carved,  it  can  first  be 
divided  into  four  parts,  detaching  the  legs  from  the  carcass,  then  the  breasts  without  making  any 
upper  breast.  With  these  four  parts  eight  pieces  can  be  secured,  two  from  each  leg  and  two  from 
each  breast,  cutting  these  on  their  length  according  to  the  lines  marked  in  the  figures. 

(33).  EOAST  TUEKEY ;  HOW  TO  OAKVE  (Pour  DScouper  une  Dinde  Eotie). 
To  be  able  to  carve  a  turkey  at  table  it  requires  a  certain  amount  of  self-possession,  for  they  are 
frequently  very  fat,  and,  therefore,  more  difficult  to  manipulate  than  a  pullet.  Unless  it  cannot  be 
avoided,  the  legs  of  a  roast  turkey  should  not  be  detached,  serving  only  the  breast  part:  this  is  done 
in  two  distinct  ways:  the  first  consists  of  cutting  the  breast  pieces  in  crosswise  slices  slightly  on 
the  bias  as  shown  in  the  figure;  the  second  by  cutting  the  fillets  lengthwise  from  the  breasts  with- 


FIG.  38. 

out  having  any  upper  breast  part;  in  either  case  it  is  proper  before  beginning  to  detach  the  wings 
from  both  sides  with  a  part  of  the  breast  adhering.  When  the  thighs  are  wanted,  detach  them  one 
after  the  other;  clip  off  the  drum  sticks  at  the  knee  joint  and  then  divide  the  second  joint  meats 
in  pieces,  leaving  the  drum  stick  whole.  The  gravy  that  is  to  be  served  with  a  roast  turkey 
should  always  be  in  a  separate  sauceboat, 

(34).  CHOPPED  PAESLEY,   TEUFPLES,  ONIONS,   SHALLOTS,   MTJSHKOOMS,  TONGUE    AND 

OOEAL  (Pour  Hacher  le  Persil,  les  Truffes,   les  Oignons,  les  Echalotes,  les  Champignons,  la  Langue 

et  le  Corail). 

For  Chopped  Parsley  see  No.  123. 

For  Truffles. — Slice  them  and  wipe  off  all  the  adhering  moisture,  then  chop  them  up  fine, 
spread  them  on  a  tin  sheet  covered  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  dry  in  the  air  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  till  needed. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  181 

For  Onions.— Cut  them  in  two,  suppress  the  end  stalk,  and  slice  them  perpendicularly,  then 
cut  them  horizontally  into  squares  more  or  less  large;  they  may  afterward  be  chopped  up  so  as  to 
loosen  them,  and  have  them  finer;  wash  them  in  cold  water,  drain  on  a  cloth  to  extract  all  the 
liquid;  proceed  the  same  for  shallots,  without  cutting  them  in  two  and  put  them  on  a  plate  in  a 
cool  place. 

For  Mushrooms.— If  they  are  already  cooked,  drain  them  well,  slice,  then  chop  them  up;  if 
raw,  peel  off  the  skin,  wash  them  nicely,  cut  in  squares,  then  chop;  use  them  immediately. 

For  Red  Beef  Tongue. — Use  only  the  thin  end  of  the  tongue,  slice,  chop  and  lay  it  on  a  tin 
sheet  covered  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  expose  them  to  a  draught  to  dry,  chop  once  more  until  very 
fine,  then  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  till  needed. 

For  Lobster  Coral.  — Take  out  the  red  part  found  inside  of  a  boiled  lobster,  wash  it  nicely, 
changing  the  water  frequently,  dry  it  in  the  air,  then  chop  it  up  very  fine  to  pass  through  a  sieve 
(Fig.  96);  spread  it  on  a  tin  sheet  over  a  sheet  of  paper,  dry  it  in  the  air.  and  keep  it  for  use  in  a 
cool  place. 

(35),  TO  COAT  JELLY  MOLDS  AND  MOLD  JELLIES  (Pour  Ohemiser  les  Monies  a  Gelfo  et  Mouler 

les  Gele"es), 

If  the  mold  need  be  only  lightly  coated,  it  is  sufficient  just  to  cool  it  on  ice,  then  pour  into  it 
the  cold  liquid  jelly  and  move  it  around  so  that  it  reaches  all  the  sides;  put  the  mold  back  on  to 
the  ice,  and  begin  the  operation  again  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later,  but  should  the  coating  of  jelly 
be  required  thick,  then  glue  over  the  top  of  the  mold  a 
heavy  paper,  and  when  the  gum  is  dry,  cut  a  ring  in  the 
surface  of  the  paper  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife, 
leaving  all  around  a  margin  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  then 
pour  some  jelly  into  the  mold,  and  turn  it  round  on  the 
ice  inclining  it  in  such  a  way  that  the  coat  acquires  the 
necessary  thickness  on  all  its  sides. 

To  Mold  Jellies. — Put  some  ice  into  a  small  vessel, 

add  its  equal  quantity  of  water,  and  set  it  in  a  cylin-  Fm 

drical  fancy  mold;   fill  this  up  with  some  cold  liquid 

jelly,  lay  on  top  and  half  an  inch  higher  than  the  mold  a  tin  sheet  or  plate,  cover  this  with  broken 
ice  without  any  salt  and  after  the  jelly  is  thoroughly  cold  and  firm,  unmold  it.  In  order  to 
accomplish  this,  dip  the  mold  quickly  into  hot  water  at  one  hundred  and  fifteen  to  one  hundred 
and  twenty  degrees  Fahrenheit;  wipe  it  briskly  and  overturn  it  on  to  a  cold  dish  as  soon  as  the 
jelly  detaches,  and  then  remove  the  mold. 

(36).  TO  PEEPAEE  0000 ANUT  (Preparation  de  la  Uoix  de  Coco). 

Break  a  cocoanut  across  in  two,  exactly  in  the  center;  slip  the  blade  of  a  thin  round-tipped 
knife  between  the  nut  and  the  shell,  push  it  in  with  the  right  hand  and  turn  the  cocoa  with  the 
left;  detach  and  take  out  the  entire  half  nut;  remove  the  outer  skin  covering  the  nut  with  a  vege- 
table knife  (Fig.  156),  and  when  it  is  all  peeled,  throw  the  nut  into  cold  water;  drain  and  scrape  it 
on  a  coarse  grater.  Use  a  part  of  it  for  roasting  by  putting  the  grated  nut  on  a  sheet  of  paper 
into  a  moderate  oven  and  keep  the  remainder  into  a  stone  jar  in  the  ice-box  mixing  it  with  an  equal 
weight  of  sugar. 

(37).  VEGETABLE  OOLOES  (Oouleurs  Veg<§tales), 

Spinach  green  is  frequently  used  for  coloring  purees,  soups,  butters,  sauces  and  sugar.  It  is 
the  healthiest  coloring  matter,  and  if  possible  use  no  other.  Spinach  green  is  prepared  with  very 
green,  fresh  spinach,  well  washed,  pounded  in  a  mortar  and  when  well  reduced  to  a  paste,  extract 
all  the  juice  through  a  coarse  cloth,  and  place  this  in  an  untinned  copper  sugar  pan,  and  heat  it 
till  it  decomposes,  then  pour  it  over  a  fine  sieve  so  the  pulp  or  coloring  matter  remains  on  top;  the 
strained  liquid  is  colorless  and  useless.  For  yellow,  use  a  decoction  of  saffron  or  dandelion 
flowers;  for  red,  employed  for  coloring  bisques,  orchanet  dissolved  in  butter  is  used.  The  roucou 
annotto  also  gives  a  yellowish  red  and  is  much  used.  Vegetable  colors,  and  clarified  carmine, 
Breton  Landrin,  are  those  mostly  employed.  Breton  Landrin  green  is  beautiful  for  coloring 
sugar  cooked  to  crack,  as  it  is  not  detrimental  to  its  transparency. 


182  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Colorings :  Carmine  and  Cochineal  Red.— Take  two  ounces  of  No.  42  carmine,  broken  in 
pieces;  wet  with  a  little  cold  water;  crush  in  a  small  mortar  and  dilute  with  a  little  twenty-five 
degree  syrup.  Besides  this,  boil  two  quarts  of  syrup  also  to  twenty-five  degrees,  mix  in  the 
carmine,  boil  up  once,  strain  through  a  napkin  and  leave  to  cool,  then  add  a  few  coffeespoonf  uls  of 
liquid  ammonia  and  pour  into  bottles. 

For  Red  Cochineal. — Finely  pound  five  ounces  of  fine  cochineal;  place  it  in  a  copper  pan  and 
moisten  with  a  quart  of  water,  adding  three  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  three  ounces  of  alum  and 
six  ounces  of  sugar;  set  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  let  the  liquid  reduce  to  half;  now  put  in  two  gills 
of  spirit  of  wine;  boil  up  once,  strain  through  a  napkin  and  pour  into  bottles. 

(38).  COURT-BOUILLON,  PLAIN.    (Court-Bouillon  Simple). 

Plain  court-bouillon  is  used  for  cooking  large  fishes,  such  as  salmon,  halibut,  bass  and  lobsters. 

This  court-bouillon  is  prepared  with  vinegar,  roots  and  sliced  onions,  a  large  bunch  of  parsley, 
salt  and  water.  If  the  fish  has  to  be  plunged  into  boiling  water,  cook  the  court-bouillon  for  seven 
or  eight  minutes  previous  to  putting  it  in,  and  if  on  the  contrary,  then  pour  the  liquid  over  the 
fish,  and  bring  it  to  a  boil. 

(39).  COUET  BOUILLON  WITH  WINE  (Court  Bouillon  au  Vin). 

The  court  bouillon  is  a  most  necessary  auxiliary  in  all  kitchens,  where  it  plays  an  important 
part;  it  is  prepared  fresh  every  day,  and  special  care  is  taken  to  have  it  good,  for  in  it  the  principal 
fishes  are  cooked,  and  with  it  the  sauce  Normande  is  made,  so  useful  for  hurried  work. 

First  prepare  a  broth  with  the  heads  of  large,  fresh  fish,  some  roots,  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley 
and  a  little  salt;  let  it  boil  very  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  and  skim  off  the  fat,  and 
leave  it  to  settle  until  clear.  From  the  bones  and  heads  of  bass,  sheepshead,  blackfish,  etc.,  the 
best  fish  stock  is  obtained. 

Cook  a  mirepoix  composed  of  sliced  roots,  shallots  and  onions,  add  to  it  the  fragments  of  fish 
as  explained  above  and  cook  these  together  for  a  few  moments  on  a  good  fire;  moisten  with  two  or 
three  gills  of  white  wine  and  let  it  fall  to  a  glaze  over  a  brisk  fire;  moisten  it  again  at  once  with 
two  gills  of  fish  broth  and  also  let  this  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  to  their  height  with  good  fish 
broth  and  a  little  white  wine,  add  a  bunch  of  aromatic  herbs,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  some  fresh 
mushroom  peelings,  boil  the  liquid  while  skimming  and  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  to  despumate 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  skimming  it  carefully.  Strain  the  stock  through  a  sieve,  let  it  settle,  and 
pour  off  the  top  into  a  glazed  vessel,  and  if  it  be  not  succulent  enough,  then  reduce  it  again;  keep 
it  in  a  cool  place. 

This  stock  may  be  easily  kept  from  one  day  to  another,  if  care  be  taken  to  keep  the 
vessel  and  its  contents  incrusted  on  ice.  This  court  bouillon  may  also  be  moistened  with  red  wine; 
in  either  case,  it  must  be  prepared  with  the  greatest  care  possible. 

(40).  ALMOND  CEEAM  (Creme  d'Amandes). 

Pound  one  pound  of  almonds  with  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  slowly  adding  four  small  eggs  and 
some  orange  flower  water.  When  the  almonds  have  become  a  fine  paste,  take  them  from  the 
mortar  and  transfer  to  a  vessel,  incorporating  in  six  eggs,  one  at  the  time  and  one  pound  of  fresh 
butter  softened  and  divided  in  small  pats. 

(41).  ENGLISH  CKEAM  WITH  OOIFEE  (Oreme  Anglaise  au  Caf6). 

Boil  a  quart  of  milk,  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  freshly  roasted  coffee  beans,  cover  the 
saucepan  and  leave  to  infuse  for  half  an  hour.  Beat  eight  egg-yolks  with  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  dilute  with  the  boiling  coffee  milk  strained  through  a  fine  colander;  stand  the  saucepan  on  a 
slow  fire,  stir  the  cream  until  it  becomes  quite  thick,  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  then  take  it  off, 
strain  through  a  sieve  and  pour  it  into  a  vessel,  stir  frequently  till  cold. 

42).  ENGLISH  CREAM  WITH  VANILLA,  LEMON  OR  ORANGE  ZEST  (Creme  Anglaise  k  la 

Vanille  ou  aux  Zestes  de  Citron  ou  d'Orange). 

Beat  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  sugar  with  ten  raw  egg-yolks;  mingle  both 
well  together  and  dilute  with  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  having  had  half  a  vanilla  stick 
broken  in  pieces  infused  therein.  Cook  the  cream  on  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  with  a  spoon 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  183 

or  whisk  and  thicken  without  boiling;  strain  this  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  vessel  and  let  cool, 
stirring  it  occasionally  until  this  occurs.  This  cream  can  be  flavored  with  lemon  or  orange  peel 
instead  of  vanilla. 

(43).  FRANGIPANE  OEEAM  WITH  CHOCOLATE,  OR  WITH  MAEEOW  (Creme  Frangipane  auCho- 

colat  ou  a  la  Moelle). 

Chocolate. — Add  to  some  vanilla  frangipane  cream  as  described  below,  four  ounces  of  chocolate 
melted  in  a  slack  oven  and  diluted  a  little  at  the  time  with  cream. 

Marrow. — Soak  in  fresh  water  four  ounces  of  marrow  cut  in  quarter  inch  pieces,  then  melt  in 
a  bain-marie.  Into  a  saucepan  put  three  ounces  of  sugar,  six  ounces  of  flour,  four  whole  eggs  and 
six  yolks;  stir  well  with  a  spoon  and  dilute  with  a  quart  of  boiling  milk.  Pass  this  through  a 
sieve  into  another  saucepan,  add  an  ounce  of  butter  and  cook,  being  careful  that  the  cream  con- 
tains no  lumps;  when  well  thickened  remove  from  the  fire;  mix  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  chopped 
almonds  and  the  melted  marrow. 

(44).  FRANGIPANE  CREAM  WITH  VANILLA  OR  ALMONDS  (Oreme  Frangipaue  a  la  Vanille  ou 

aux  Amandes). 

Place  in  a  vessel  six  ounces  of  flour,  six  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  three  ounces  of  sugar  and  a 
little  salt;  dilute  with  six  gills  of  milk.  Whip  well  the  preparation,  pass  it  through  a  fine  strainer 
into  a  saucepan  and  add  to  it  three  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  vanilla  bean;  stir, -placing  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire  until  the  cream  becomes  consistent,  then  remove  and  beat  it  firmly  off  the 
range;  put  it  back  on  the  fire  to  cook  for  a  few  moments,  suppress  the  vanilla  if  for  almond 
frangipane,  and  mix  in  four  ounces  of  pounded  almonds  and  four  ounces  of  nut  butter. 

(45).  MOCHA  CREAM  (Creme  Moka). 

Put  into  a  tinned  basin  sixteen  egg-yolks  and  one  pound  of  sugar;  beat  and  dilute  with  a  pint 
of  very  strong  coffee  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Set  the  basin  on  the  fire,  stir  with  a  small  whip, 
pressing  it  against  the  bottom,  bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil,  without  allowing  it  actually  to  boil,  then 
remove  from  off  the  fire,  let  stand  till  cold.  Put  sixteen  ounces  of  butter  in  a  vessel,  heat  it 
lightly  and  work  it  well  to  a  cream,  then  pour  it  into  the  preparation  and  stir  the  whole  vigorously 
with  a  whip. 

(46).  PASTRY  CREAM  WITH  VANILLA  (Creme  Patissiere  a  la  Vanille). 
Place  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin,  adding  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  an  ounce  of  fecula  or 
corn  starch;  mix  the  ingredients  well  together  and  dilute  with  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  having  had 
half  a  vanilla  stick  infused  therein.     Stand  it  on  the  fire  arid  stir  continually  until  it  thickens  and 
is  ready  to  boil,  then  pour  into  a  vessel  to  use  when  needed. 

(47),  PISTACHIO  OR  HAZEL-NUT  CREAM  (Crime  aux  Pistaches  ou  aux  Noisettes). 
Place  eight  egg-yolks  in  a  bowl  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  beat  well  together  and  dilute  with  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk;  thicken  this  cream  on  the  fire  without  allowing  it  to  boil  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
cooked,  take  it  off  and  add  half  a  pound  of  pistachios  pounded  with  orange  flower  water,  vegetal 
green  and  kirsch,  or  else  half  a  pound  of  roasted  hazel-nuts  pounded  with  a  little  water  and  mara- 
schino. Incorporate  some  cream  into,  either  of  these  when  nearly  cold;  also  a  pound  of  very  good, 
fresh,  unsalted  butter;  allow  to  cool. 

(48).  QUILLET  CREAM  (Oreme  a  la  Quillet). 

Pour  one  pint  of  thirty-two  degrees  hot  syrup  into  a  small  tin  basin,  adding  sixteen  egg-yolks, 
one  vanilla  bean  and  two  gills  of  orgeat  syrup;  set  the  basin  on  the  fire  and  stir  continuously  until 
the  preparation  almost  comes  to  a  boil,  then  take  it  off  and  when  it  has  lost  its  greatest  heat, 
incorporate  in  with  a  whip  one  pound  of  unsalted  butter  of  the  very  finest  quality  procurable, 
dividing  it  into  small  pats. 

(49).  ST.  HONORE  CREAM  (Oreme  St.  Honors'). 

Into  a  saucepan  put  ten  egg-yolks  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  common  flour  and 
one  ounce  of  rice  flour;  dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  into  which  half  a  vanilla  stick  has  been 
infused.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  stir  incessantly  till  the  ingredients  become  consistent 
and  are  about  to  boil,  then  suppress  the  vanilla.  Have  twelve  egg-whites  already  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth,  incorporate  them  into  the  cream,  beating  it  briskly  with  a  spoon. 


184: 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(50).  WHIPPED  OKEAM  OK  CHANTILLY  OEEAM  (Creme  Fouettee  on  Creme  a  la  Chantilly), 

To  obtain  the  very  best  result  the  cream  must  be  the  finest  procurable  and  exceedingly  thick. 
Pour  it  into  a  tinned  basin,  beat  it  with  a  tinned  wire  whip  and  if  the  cream  be  good  it  will  rise  in 
a  few  moments  to  a  thick  froth;  should  it  be  needed  for  meringue,  after  whipping  it  thoroughly 
add  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  for  each  quart  of  the  unwhipped  cream.  For  mousselines, 
after  the  cream  is  firmly  whipped  and  not  sweetened  lay  it  on  a  hair  sieve  and  leave  it  drain  for 
one  hour  before  using.  After  the  cream  is  whipped  it  can  be  flavored  by  adding  a  tablespoonful 
of  essence  of  coffee  or  one  ounce  of  grated  and  sifted  chocolate  for  every  quart  of  cream.  To 
flavor  with  vanilla  add  to  the  sugar  one  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  sugar. 

(51),  TO  PEEPAEE  OEOUTONS  FOE  SOUPS,  EOASTS,  VEGETABLES,  EGGS,  ETO.  (Pour  Preparer 

les  Croutons  Pour  les  Soupes,  Eotis,  Legumes,  (Eufs,  etc.). 

Cut  the  croutons  from  the  crumb  of  a  stale  loaf  of  bread;   for  entrees  cut  them  half  heart- 
shaped,  three  inches  long  by  two  and  a  half  wide,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  (see  Fig.  40.); 
fry  them  in  butter,  and  as  soon  as  one  side  is  browned,  turn  them  over, 
and  repeat  until  they  have  attained  a  fine  color  on  both  sides. 

For  Vegetables,  Scrambled  Eggs,  Spinach,  Chiccory,  etc. — Cut  them 
triangle  shaped,  one  and  a  quarter  inches  on  the  sides,  by  one  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick;  fry  them  in  butter,  browning  them  nicely  on  both  sides. 

For  Soups. — Serve  croutons  three-sixteenths  to  four- 
sixteenths  square  or  round  shaped,  three  quarters  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  by  one-eighth  in  thickness ;  either  of  these 
must  be  fried  a  fine  color  in  butter,  but  do  not  allow  them 
to  get  too  dry.  In  order  to  obtain  fine  croutons,  they  must 
be  fried  in  clarified  butter,  lard  or  oil,  and  in  a  sautoir, 
but  not  in  the  frying  fat. 

For  Roast  Game,  Pheasants,  Partridges,  Grouse  and 
Quail,  have  oblong  shaped  croutons ;  trim  the  edges  and  then  cut  off  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  four  corners;  pass  the  knife  all  around  the  croutons 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge,  fry  and  cut  away  the  centers,  scoop 
out  the  crumb  from  this  space,  and  lay  them  under  the  game  ;  reed-birds 
or  larks  must  be  laid  on  oblong  croutons  sufficiently  long  to  hold  two  or 
more  birds,  but  do  not  scoop  these  out. 

For  Snipe,  Woodcock  or  Plovers,  have  wider,  oblong  crusts  (Fig.  41);  dig  out  the  crumb  in 
the  center  to  hold  the  bird  and  scoop  out  smaller  hollows  on  each  side,  which  should  be  garnished 
with  a  forcemeat,  made  of  chopped  up  chicken  livers  and  shallots,  fried  in  scraped  lard;  mix  some 
fine  herbs  with  the  livers.  Epicures  sometimes  have  the  chopped  intestines  added  to  the  force- 
meat. 

(52).  TO  PEEPAEE  HOLLOW  CEUSTS  (Pour  Preparer  les  Croutes  Creuses). 

Hollowed  out  crusts  are  used  for  serving  small  garnishings  composed  of  purges,  game  fillets, 
and  also  boned  small  birds,  such  as  larks  and  reed-birds;  they  are  also  employed  to  serve  with 
poached  eggs,  after  filling  the  hollow  space  with  some  garnishing.  Hollow  crusts  are  made  of 
bread  crumb,  timbale  paste  or  puff  paste. 


FIG.  42. 


FIG.  41. 


FIG.  40. 


FIG.  43. 


FIG.  44. 


FIG.  44a. 


Bread  Crumb  Crusts  are  cut  oval  and  half  heart  shaped  (Figs.  42  and  43);  they  are  two  inches 
long  and  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick;  make  incisions  on  one  side  near  the  edge,  using  for  this 
a  small  knife;  brown  both  sides  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter,  then  drain  them  to  open  and 
scoop  out  the  crumb. 

Crusts  made  of  Timbale  Paste  are  formed  from  an  oval  layer  of  paste,  three -sixteenths  of  an 
inch  thick;  they  are  shaped  in  unbuttered  tin  rings,  half  an  inch  high,  either  oval  or  round,  plain 
or  channelled  (Figs.  44  and  44a);  the  paste  is  cut  flush  with  the  top  of  the  ring,  the  ring  is  now 
removed  and  the  outside  edge  of  the  paste  is  pinched  prettily,  the  top  also  to  form  the  crest;  let 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  185 

dry  for  a  few  minutes;  they  are  now  to  be  placed  in  larger  buttered  rings,  or  surrounded  with 
bands  of  buttered  paper  to  support  the  paste  while  cooking;  line  the  inside  with  buttered  paper 
and  till  with  raw  rice;  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  remove  from  the 
rings,  empty  out  the  rice,  brush  the  crusts  with  an  egg-wash  and  put  in  the 
oven  to  color  nicely. 

To  Make  Puff  Paste  Crusts  Plain  or  with  Fluted  Cutter. — Cut  the  paste 
round  or  oval  shaped  in  any  desired  size,  arrange  them   on  a  moist  baking  FIG.  45. 

sheet,  a  short  distance  apart,  and  prick  them;  moisten  the  edges  with  a  brush 
and  apply  around  this  a  band  of  the  same  paste  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  by  five- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  width;  fasten  the  ends  of  the  band  together,  egg  the  surface  and  bake 
these  crusts  in  a  moderate  oven  the  same  as  small  bouchees. 

(53).  EGGING  AND  MOISTENING  (Dorer  et  Mouiller). 

Egging  With    Whole  Eggs. — Beat  the  eggs  with  half  as  much  water  and  run  them  through 
a  sieve. 

Egg-yolks  Alone. — Stir  the  yolks  with  the  same  volume  of  water  and  strain. 
With  Milk. — Mix  as  much  milk  as  yolks,  beat  well  together  and  strain. 

Moistening. — Moisten  lightly  with  water,  baking  sheets  or  else  flats  of  paste  on  which  another 
is  to  be  laid  in  order  to  fasten  the  two  together. 

For  both  egging  and  moistening  use  a  feather  or  a  very  soft  hair  brush  (Fig.  184). 

(54).  TO  BEAT  UP  THE  WHITE  OF  EGGS  (Pour  Fouetter  les  Blancs  d'CEufs). 

Although  the  eggs  intended  for  beating  up  the  white 
should  be  perfectly  fresh,  still  they  must  not  be  newly 
laid,  for  when  these  are  used  they  are  liable  to  become  a 
greenish  color,  while  baking.  Procure  an  egg-beater  or 
a  whip  made  for  this  purpose,  and  a  small  untinned  basin, 
separate  most  carefully  the  yolks  from  the  whites,  and 
put  these  into  the  basin  with  a  very  little  salt,  then  begin 
to  whip,  slowly  at  the  beginning  but  proceed  gradually  to 
increase  the  velocity  of  the  motion  as  the  volume  increases 
so  as  to  allow  them  to  absorb  all  the  air  possible,  which 
gives  them  their  consistency.  Should  the  whites  threaten 

to  turn,  they  must  be  whipped  again  until  smooth,  adding  to  them  a  handful  of  powdered  sugar 

or  a  few  drops  of  citric  acid. 

(55).  FAT  PEEPAEED  FOE  FETING  (Graisse  Prepare  Pour  la  Friture). 
The  preference  is  generally  given  to  beef  kidney  suet;  cut  it  in  half  inch  pieces  and  place 
these  in  an  untinned  iron  pan  with  one  gill  of  water  for  every  pound  of  fat;  cook  on  a  slow  fire 
stirring  carefully  from  time  to  time  so  that  it  cannot  adhere  to  the  bottom.     When  very  clear  and 
it  ceases  to  froth  it  is  a  sign  that  it  is  done,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  or  cloth. 

(56).  FAT  FOE  SOOLES  AND  FLOWEES  (Graisse  Pour  Socles  et  pour  Fleurs). 
Fat  for  Rodes. — Remove  the  skin  and  all  the  membranes  from  twenty  pounds  of  mutton 
kidney  suet,  cut  it  up  in  half  inch  squares,  and  put  this  grease  into  twenty-five  quarts  of  cold 
water  with  one  pound  of  carbonate  of  soda,  wash  well  the  fat,  change  the  water  frequently, 
drain,  then  melt  it  on  a  slow  fire,  being  careful  to  stir  it  so  that  it  does  not  adhere  to  the  bottom 
of  the  pan,  nor  brown  in  the  slightest,  add  to  it  eight  ounces  of  Siam  benzoin  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
thoroughly  rendered  out,  mix  in  the  same  quantity  of  lard,  strain  through  a  fine  towel,  and  put  it 
aside  to  cool  slightly;  then  add  a  little  ultra-marine  blue.  Stir  with  a  whisk  until  cool,  and 
having  body  enough  to  be  worked;  fasten  a  mandrel  on  a  round  or  oval  board,  begin  workirg  at 
the  bottom  of  the  foundation  with  a  profile,  previously  soaked  in  cold  water  and  kept  wet,  and 
when  the  base  is  very  firm,  continue  coating  the  mandrel  with  the  fat,  and  profiling  it  until  the 
whole  socle  is  finished.  Decorate  with  natural  or  grease  flowers  as  below  forming  a  wreath 
around  the  top  of  the  mandrel,  or  if  preferred  festoon  it,  leaving  a  few  inches  of  the  decoration 
fall  in  scallops  gracefully  around. 


186  THE    EPICUREAN. 

To  Make  Grease  Flowers. — Have  half  as  much  fat  prepared  for  socles  as  virgin  wax,  melting 
both  together;  color  them  in  various  colors  while  the  fat  is  still  hot  and  place  in  vessels  keeping 
each  color  separate;  have  for  instance:  white,  pink,  red,  green,  brown,  etc.,  let  cool.  Twelve 
hours  later  unmold  the  fat  on  to  a  wet  napkin  and  scrape  into  fine  shavings  with  a  strong 
knife,  then  gather  all  of  these  in  a  damp  cloth  so  as  to  soften  and  have  it  get  smooth  by 
kneading  it  till  it  becomes  ductile  as  clay;  roll  into  small  balls  and  place  these  between  two  wet 
cloths;  rub  the  top  of  each  ball  with  a  piece  of  smooth  ice  until  it  is  very  thin  so  that  it  resembles 
the  petal  of  a  real  flower  for  example,  to  make  a  rose  arrange  some  pink  fat  around  a  small  stick 
to  imitate  the  center  of  the  flower,  fasten  on  the  petals  all  around  as  quickly  as  they  are 
prepared  and  when  there  are  sufficient,  pull  out  the  stick  and  begin  another  until  enough  flowers 
are  obtained.  Fasten  them  on  to  the  upper  border  of  a  socle.  This  same  grease  can  be  used 
for  modeling. 

(57).  TO  SCALE  AND  CLEAN  FISH;  TO  SKIN  EELS  (Pour  Ecailler  le  Poisson,  le  Nettoyer  et 

De"pouiller  les  Anguilles). 

For  English  Soles. — Remove  the  black  skin,  starting  at  the  tail  with  a  knife,  then  pulling  it 
off.  If  trout  be  required  for  boiling,  they  must  be  cooked  with  the  scales  on.  German  carp 
should  not  be  scaled. 

For  Salmon,  Turbot,  Bass  or  Mullets. — Scrape  the  outside  with  a  strong  knife  in  order  to 
remove  the  scales.  All  fish  must  be  emptied  either  by  the  gills  or  by  an  opening  made  in  the 
belly;  cut  away  the  fins  with  a  pair  of  strong  scissors. 

To  Skin  Eels. — They  must  be  hung  up  by  the  head  on  a  hook,  remove  a  little  piece  of  the 
skin  all  around  below  the  fins  so  as  to  be  able  to  catch  hold  of  it,  then  grasp  it  with  a  cloth,  and 
pull  it  down  the  whole  length  of  the  body,  turning  it  inside  out.  Shave  the  spinal  bone  with  a 
sharp  knife,  and  in  a  contrary  direction  from  the  bone,  or  else  the  entire  bone  may  be  removed  by 
detaching  it  from  the  flesh,  beginning  at  the  extreme  thin  end  of  the  tail,  and  pulling  it  out 
entirely,  the  same  for  the  ventral. 

(58).  PONDANT  (Fondant). 

Put  into  a  small  untinned  copper  basin  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  moisten  it  with  sufficient 
water  to  melt  it,  about  one  pint,  and  put  the  basin  on  a  good  fire  to  bring  the  sugar  to  a  boil;  skim 
it  carefully  and  so  long  as  the  impurities  rise  to  the  surface  and  continue  boiling  till  the  sugar  is 
cooked  to  the  degree  of  ball ;  then  pour  it  on  to  a  marble  table  or  slab  and  keep  it  in  position  by 
four  bars  of  iron,  an  inch  square,  and  the  length  needed;  when  it  is  thoroughly  cold  work  it  with  a 
spatula  until  it  becomes  a  white  and  creamy  paste;  set  it  in  an  earthen  vessel,  and  keep  it  in  a 
cool  place  to  use  when  needed.  This  fondant  can  be  flavored  and  colored  according  to  taste. 

(59).  FOECEMEATS;  EEMAEKS  ON  (Observations  sur  les  Farces). 

Forcemeats  are  indispensable  for  performing  fine  work  and  are  liked  by  good  livers; 
they  are  principally  used  for  hors-d'oeuvre,  garnishings,  removes  and  entrees;  for  stuffing  breasts 
or  shoulders  of  veal,  poultry,  game  and  fish.  They  are  also  necessary  to  form  borders,  for  holding 
the  garnishing  and  for  large  timbales;  they  must  always  be  prepared  in  advance  with  the  very 
freshest  meats,  otherwise  they  are  likely  to  be  of  little  good  and  liable  to  spoil,  this  being  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  observe,  and  be  sure  to  keep  them  on  ice  until  needed.  Always  be  careful 
when  composing  a  menu,  not  to  have  too  many  dishes  containing  forcemeats,  for  they  will  detract 
from  the  simplicity  and  natural  plainness  of  a  dinner. 

(60).  TO  PEEPABE  AND  MAKE  FOEOEMEATS  AND  TO  EEOTIFY  THEM  (Pour  Preparer  et  Faire 

les  Farces  et  les  Rectifier). 


FIG.  47.  FIG.  48. 

Chicken. — Use  only  the  lean  and  well  pared  meats  of  poultry  or  game,  some  panada,  fresh 
butter,  or  cooked  and  cold  veal  udder,  raw  egg-yolks  or  else  the  whites,  or  sometimes  whole  eggs, 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


187 


FIG.  49. 


salt  and  spices,  also  cold  sauces  or  else  raw  cream.  Pass  the  meat  once  or  twice  through  a 
machine  to  remove  the  nerves  (Fig.  47);  afterward  pound  it  to  a  pulp  so  it  can  readily  pass  through 
a  metal  sieve  fitting  on  to  the  mortar  (Fig.  48);  pound  the  meat  once  more,  then  add  the  panada, 
the  butter  or  udder,  continuing  to  pound  all  the  time,  and  then  add  the  eggs  singly  without  ceasing 

to  pound  and  the  seasonings;  pass  through  a 
strong  hair  sieve.  Put  this  into  a  thin  tin 
vessel,  set  it  on  ice  and  stir  for  a  few  moments 
with  a  spoon  in  order  to  have  it  perfectly 
smooth,  keep  in  a  cool  place  until  needed. 

Game. — To  make  game  quenelle  forcemeat, 
proceed  the  same  as  for  the  chicken;  to  have  it 
delicate,  use  brown  sauce  or  melted  meat  glaze, 
and  pass  the  meat  once  more  after  all  the 
ingredients  are  mixed  in.  For  this  it  requires 
a  strong  hair  sieve,  or  one  of  fine  tinned 
wire;  stand  this  sieve  on  a  round  dish,  slightly 
larger  than  itself,  so  it  can  receive  the  force- 
meat as  it  falls  through  ;  put  only  a  small 
quantity  on  the  sieve  at  the  time;  press  it 
forcibly  with  a  large  wooden  spoon  to  have 
it  pass  through  rapidly,  and  when  all  is  finished, 
place  it  in  a  tin  vessel  and  stir  it  for  a  few 
moments  with  a  spoon  to  render  it  smooth  and 
keep  it  in  a  cool  place  until  needed. 

To  Rectify  Forcemeats. — Try  a  little  piece, 
formed  into  a  half  inch  ball,  in  boiling  water  or 
in  the  oven,  and  if  too  consistent  add  some 
cream  or  veloute,  for  white  forcemeats,  and 
espagnole  or  melted  glaze  for  brown  game.  If 

too  weak,  a  little  pounded  panada  is  to  be  added,  mixing  it  in  gradually  with  some  egg-yolks, 

whites  or  whole  eggs. 

(61).  TO  PREPABE  BEEAD  STUFFING,  AMEBICAN  AND  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Pour  Preparer  la 

Farce  au  Pain  a  1'Ame'ricaine  et  a  1'Anglaise). 

Bread  stuffing  is  used  to  stuff  poultry  and  game  and  sometimes  fish.  Soak  in  water  or  milk  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs,  squeeze  out  all  the  liquid  and  put  the  bread  into  a  saucepan; 
beat  it  up  with  a  spoon  and  add  to  it  a  little  boiled  milk  or  broth,  so  as  to  form  a  paste  the  same 
as  for  a  panada,  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  set  it  aside  to  cool,  season  and  mix  in  five  or  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped-iip  onions,  either  raw  or  cooked  in  butter,  some  chopped  parsley  and  three  or 
four  raw  egg-yolks.  Bread  stuffing  may  also  be  prepared  without  cooking,  only  mixing  white 
bread-crumbs  with  butter  or  chopped  suet,  raw  egg-yolks,  parsley  and  chopped  onions. 

American  Style. — Steep  half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs  in  milk  and  when  well  soaked  extract 
all  the  liquid;  put  it  over  a  slow  fire  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  up  with  a  spoon,  to  have  it  dry;  add 
two  ounces  of  onions,  cut  in  dice,  and  fried  colorless  in  butter,  and  when  the  stuffing  is  cold,  add 
four  ounces  either  of  butter  or  beef  marrow  chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper,  sage,  thyme,  parsley, 
minced  green  celery  leaves  and  four  raw  egg-yolks. 

English. — Have  half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs  steeped  in  white  broth  and  all  the  liquid  ex- 
tracted; put  it  on  the  fire  to  dry,  then  add  four  ounces  of  beef  suet  well  skinned  and  chopped  up 
fine;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  add  three  ounces  of  chopped  onions  fried  and  lightly 
colored,  one  whole  egg  and  four  raw  egg-yolks. 

(62),  OHIOKEN  OK  GAME  FOBOEMEAT  WITHOUT  PANADA    (Farce  de  Volaille  on  de   Gibier 

Sans  Panade). 

Ingredients.  — One  pound  of  breast  of  chicken  or  game,  raw  and  free  of  sinews;  eight  egg-yolks, 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  salt,  red  pepper,  nutmeg  and  two  gills  of  well  reduced  veloute  (No.  415).  Pass 
twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47).  One  pound  of  raw  and  nerveless  chicken  or  game  fillets,  or 
else  chop  the  pieces  very  fine  and  pound  them  to  reduce  to  a  fine  paste;  rub  this  through  a  round 


188  THE    EPICUREAN. 

quenelle  sieve  (Fig.  142).  Incorporate  into  it  eight  egg-yolks  one  by  one,  also  half  a 
pound  of  butter  divided  into  small  pieces;  season  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  add  two 
gills  of  well  reduced  veloute  (No.  415).  Work  the  forcemeat  well  in  a  mortar,  so  that  it  acquires  a 
good  consistence;  test  it  and  if  necessary  to  rectify  (see  No.  60).  This  forcemeat  is  used  to  make 
either  red,  white  or  green  quenelles. 

(63),  FORCEMEAT  OF  CHICKEN,  FISH  OR  GAME  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  AND  BUTTER 
(Farce  de  Volaille,  Poisson  on  Gibier  avec  Creme  Fouette"e  et  Beurre). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  chicken  fillets  after  passing  them  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47), 
then  press  this  pulp  through  a  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  mortar  to  pound  once  more,  mixing  in 
with  it  little  by  little,  five  ounces  of  butter,  one  whole  egg  and  four  yolks,  or  instead  of  the  egg 
and  yolks  substitute  four  egg-whites.  Season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  red  pepper,  then  take  out 
the  forcemeat  and  set  it  into  a  thin  metal  vessel;  lay  this  on  the  ice,  beat  up  the  forcemeat  well 
for  a  few  minutes,  incorporating  slowly  into  it  the  volume  of  one  pint  of  very  firm,  well  drained 
whipped  cream,  one  pint  of  cream  before  being  whipped  will  produce  about  three  pints  after  being 
whipped;  use  the  same  preparation  for  forcemeats  of  game  and  fish,  increasing  or  decreasing  the 
panada  and  eggs  according  to  the  consistency  of  the  viands  employed. 

(64).  CHICKEN  LIVER,  FINE  BAKING  FORCEMEAT  (Farce  Fine  de  Foies  de  Volaille  a  Gratin). 

Heat  four  ounces  of  grated  lard,  add  to  it  one  pound  of  saut6d  cold  chicken  livers;  pound  well 
half  a  pound  of  bread-crumb  panada  (No.  121),  add  the  livers  a  little  at  the  time,  pounding  con- 
tinually, fry  in  butter  one  tablespoonful  of  shallots,  adding  to  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mush- 
rooms, half  a  tablespoonful  of  truffles,  both  chopped,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  when 
all  these  ingredients  have  fried  lightly  add  to  them  two  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  let  get 
slightly  cold,  then  stir  in  one  whole  egg  and  three  yolks;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add 
the  chicken  livers,  rub  all  forcibly  through  a  sieve  and  mix  this  preparation  with  one  pou.ld  of 
quenelle  forcemeat. 

(65).  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  FOR  CHICKEN  GALANTINES  (Farce  Hachis  pour  Galantines  de 

Volaille). 

To  prepare  chopped  farces  or  sausage-meat  only  lean  meats  without  any  skin  or  nerves  are  to 
be  used,  and  fresh  fat  pork.  Chop  up  both  meat  and  pork  and  in  some  special  cases  they  require 
to  be  pounded  after  being  chopped. 

Farce  or  chopped  meats  for  galantines  of  poultry  is  prepared  with  one  pound  of  chicken  or 
other  poultry  meat,  and  one  pound  of  fat  pork.  The  chicken  may  be  replaced  by  lean  veal,  or 
half  pork  and  half  veal;  chop  all  up  very  fine,  and  season  with  three  quarters  to  one  ounce  of 
spiced  salt  (No.  168);  pound  well  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  whole  eggs,  and  one  gill  of  water 
or  cream;  chopped  truffles  or  cooked  fine  herbs  may  also  be  added  if  desired. 

(66)  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  FOR  GAME  GALANTINES  (Farce  Hachis  pour  Galantines  de 

Gibier). 

This  is  prepared  with  half  game  meat,  either  from  the  shoulder  or  thighs  of  hare  or  young 
rabbits,  or  the  thighs  of  partridges  or  pheasants,  and  half  fat  pork,  having  a  pound  of  each.  Sea- 
son with  an  ounce  of  spiced  salt  (No.  168).  "When  it  is  well  chopped  mix  in  with  it  half  a  pound  of 
foies  gras.  Strain  galantine  farces,  but  when  the  galantine  farces  of  game  or  poultry  are  well 
chopped  this  is  rarely  required. 

(67).  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  FOR  GAME  PIE  (Farce  Hachis  pour  Pate"  de  Gibier). 

Prepare  a  pound  of  lean  veal  or  pork  forcemeat  without  nerves  or  skin,  a  pound  of  fat  pork, 
and  season  with  salt,  white  pepper  and  red  pepper;  mince  finely  one  ounce  of  onions  and  two 
ounces  of  carrots;  fry  them  both  in  butter  with  thyme  and  bayleaf,  adding  the  parings  and 
carcasses  of  some  game;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  reduce  till  dry,  then  moisten  once 
more  with  a  pint  of  broth  and  reduce  again  till  dry;  now  take  out  the  bones,  thyme  and  bayleaf, 
and  pound  up  all  the  meat  as  well  as  the  vegetables;  rub  this  through  a  sieve  and  mix  it  in 
with  the  farce. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  189 

(68).  CHOPPED  rOKCEMEAT  FOE  OKDINAEY  SAUSAGES  (Farce  Eachis  pour  Saucisses 

Ordinaires). 

Prepare  a  pound  of  lean,  nerveless  pork-meat  and  a  pound  of  fat  from  the  pig's  throat;  chop 
them  up  very  fine,  and  season  with  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  salt,  black  pepper  and  red  pepper; 
when  thoroughly  chopped  and  a  compact  paste  is  formed,  then  mix  in  half  a  gill  of  water. 

Another  Way. — Remove  the  sinews  from  four  pounds  of  lean  fresh  pork,  taken  from  the 
shoulder  or  neck;  add  the  same  weight  of  not  too  mellow  fat,  from  under  the  chine;  chop  together, 
season  with  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  for  each  pound,  black  pepper  and  red  pepper  to  taste. 

(69).  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  FOR  COUNTRY  SAUSAGES  WITH  SAGE  (Farce  Hachis  pour 

Saucisses  de  Oampagne  a  la  Sauge). 

Have  three  pounds  of  corn-fed  lean  pork,  free  of  all  its  sinews,  and  one  pound  of  fat  pork;  cut 
them  both  into  inch  squares,  then  chop  them  up  finely  together,  and  season  with  an  ounce  of  salt 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  black  pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  sage,  the  sixth  part 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  a  bit  of  powdered  saltpetre  and  a  gill  of  water.  Work  well 
together  so  as  to  mix  thoroughly. 

(70).  COOKED  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  WITH  CHESTNUTS  AND  WITH  CHESTNUTS  AND 
TRUFFLES  (Farce  Hachis  Ouite  aux  Marrons  et  aux  Marrons  et  Truffes). 

For  each  pound  of  forcemeat,  chop  up  one  medium  shallot;  fry  it  colorless  in  butter,  then  add 
to  it  one  pound  of  chopped  ordinary  sausage-meat  (No.  68);  let  it  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  and  add 
four  ounces  of  chopped  chicken  liver  for  every  pound  of  the  sausage-meat;  season  with  pepper,  salt 
and  nutmeg,  and  let  cook  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  then  add  some  chopped  parsley  and  two  pounds 
of  cooked  whole  chestnuts. 

With  Chestnuts  and  Truffles. — Mix  one-half  truffles  and  one-half  chestnuts  with  this  forcemeat. 

(71).  CHOPPED  FORCEMEAT  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Farce  Hachis  aux  Truffes). 

Add  to  the  chopped  forcemeat  for  ordinary  sausage-meat  (No.  68),  one-half  pound  of  raw  or 
preserved  black  truffles  cut  in  slices,  and  mix  in  also  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  for  every  pound 
of  sausage-meat.  In  winter  the  truffles  may  be  added  two  or  three  days  in  advance,  not  in  summer, 
as  they  are  liable  to  mold. 

(72).  CODFISH  FORCEMEAT  FOR  STUFFING  FISH  (Farce  de  Morue  Fraiche  Pour  Farcir  les 

Poissous). 

Chop  up  finely  one  pound  of  codfish  free  of  bone  and  skin.  Break  three  eggs  in  a  saucepan, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  one  gill  of  cream  and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  cook  on  the 
fire  stirring  the  same  as  for  scrambled  eggs,  let  this  cool,  have  also  two  ounces  of  bread  crumbs 
soaked  in  milk  and  well  squeezed.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sautoire  with  two  finely  chopped 
shallots,  fry  without  coloring,  then  add  the  fish,  four  ounces  of  mushrooms  and  an  ounce  of  truffles 
both  to  be  finely  chopped;  season  with  half  an  ounce  of  spiced  salt  (No.  168),  and  into  it  stir  the 
scrambled  eggs  and  the  bread  crumbs.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  an  hour, 
after  removing  beat  in  a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  four  raw  egg-yolks.  This  preparation  can 
also  be  used  for  rissoles  and  coulibiacs. 

(73).  COOKED  AND  RAW  GAME  OR  CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT  FOR  LINING  CASES  FOR 
SWEETBREADS,  CHICKEN,  ETC.  (Farce  Ouite  et  Orue  de  Gibier  ou  de  Volatile  pour 
Garnir  les  Caisses  de  Ris  de  Veau,  de  Volatile,  etc.). 

Have  one  pound  of  raw  chicken  or  game  fillets  cut  in  dice,  fry  them  in  four  ounces  of  butter, 
seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  let  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  set  away  to  cool. 
Begin  by  pounding  the  meat,  then  add  gradually  to  it  eight  ounces  of  butter,  or  calf's  udder  in 
small  bits,  and  remove  the  whole  from  the  mortar.  Pound  ten  ounces  of  flour  and  milk  panada, 
(No.  121),  add  to  it  eight  egg-yolks  one  by  one,  and  then  the  cooked  meat,  and  continue  pounding 
for  ten  minutes  longer;  rub  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  to  this  forcemeat  one  pound  of  raw 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89);  either  of  chicken  or  game.  Poach  one  of  the  quenelles  and  rectify  if 
necessary  as  explained  (No.  60);  four  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  may  be  added  to  this  force- 
meat. 


190  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(74).  OEEAM  CHICKEN  POECEMEAT  WITH  BECHAMEL  AND  MUSHROOM  PUEEE  (Farce  de 
Volatile  a  la  Oreme  a  la  Bechamel  et  Puree  de  Champignons). 

For  this  forcemeat  obtain  one  pound  of  chicken  or  game  meat  without  any  nerves  or  skin,  pass 
this  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47),  or  else  chop  it  up  and  pound  to  pulp;  season  with  salt, 
red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  mix  in  with  one  egg-white  and  two  gills  of  cream  bechamel  (No.  411), 
and  two  gills  of  mushroom  purde.  For  the  puree  of  mushrooms,  chop  up  one  pound  of  peeled 
fresh  mushrooms,  cook  them  in  butter  till  they  have  rendered  all  their  moisture,  then  season  and 
pound  them  with  a  third  of  their  quantity  of  good  bechamel  reduced  and  thickened.  When  cold 
mix  the  mushrooms  in  gradually  with  the  forcemeat  in  the  mortar,  rub  all  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  try  it  to  see  whether  it  be  too  solid,  if  so,  add  some  sweet  cream  by  working  it  in  with  a  whip, 
so  as  to  have  it  consistent  and  smooth. 

(75).  CHICKEN  OE  GAME  CEEAM  FOEOEMEAT  (Farce  &  la  Crerae  de  Volaille  on  de  Gibier), 

Have  one  pound  of  chicken  or  game  meat  (the  breast),  free  of  nerves  or  skin,  pass  them  twice 
through  the  machine  (Fig.  47) ;  or  else  chop  and  pound  to  a  pulp,  then  press  through  a  sieve, 
return  to  the  mortar  and  mix  in  one  egg-white,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  the 
equal  quantity  of  six  or  eight  gills  of  cream,  before  whipping;  mixing  it  in  gradually  with  a  whip 
and  working  it  well.  Should  the  forcemeat  be  too  thick  add  cream,  and  if  it  lacks  consistency, 
more  egg-white. 

(76).  CEEAM  FOEOEMEAT  OF  FISH  (Farce  de  Poisson  a  la  Creme). 

Take  one  pound  of  boned  and  skinned  bass  or  any  other  firm  fish;  pound  and  rub  it  through  a 
fine  sieve;  return  it  to  the  mortar,  season  with  an  ounce  of  salt,  some  nutmeg  and  red  pepper  and 
mix  in  while  still  stirring  with  a  whip,  two  egg-whites  and  from  six  to  eight  gills  of  cream,  meas- 
ured before  whipping;  pass  the  whole  through  a  very  fine  sieve.  Try  a  small  piece  in  order  to 
rectify  if  not  correct,  and  if  found  to  be  too  firm  add  more  cream,  and  if  too  soft  some  more  egg- 
whites. 

(77).  BAKED  FISH  FOECEMEAT  (Farce  a  Gratin  pour  Poisson). 

Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sautoire  and  when  hot  add  half  a  pound  of  finely  chopped 
mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of  chopped  truffle  parings.  After  the  mushrooms  have  rendered  their 
moisture,  add  one  pound  of  cooked  firm  fish  broken  into  fragments;  as  the  whole  becomes  hot,  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  cool  partly,  then  add  five  egg-yolks  and  five  whole  eggs,  seasoning  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  pass  it  through  a  medium  sized  sieve  (Fig.  98),  return  to  the  vessel  and  beat 
it  well  with  a  spoon,  incorporating  in  two  spoonfuls  of  tomato  pure"e,  strained  through  a  fine  sieve 
(Fig.  100)  and  half  a  pound  of  raw  fish  quenelle  forcemeat. 

(78),  FOIES  GEAS  FOECEMEAT  (Farce  de  Foies  Gras). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  frangipane  panada  (No.  120)  with  six  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  pound 
of  raw  and  very  white  fat  livers;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and  when  the  whole  is  well 
pounded,  strain  through  a  sieve,  then  add  six  raw  egg-yolks  and  two  well  beaten  whites  while  con- 
tinuing to  work  the  forcemeat. 

(79).  CHICKEN  OE  GAME  FOEOEMEAT  WITH  EICE  FOE  BOEDEES,  BOTTOMS  OF  DISHES 
AND  SUETOUTS  (Farce  de  Volaille  ou  de  Gibier  au  Riz  pour  Bordures,  Fonds  de  Plats  et 
Surtouts). 

Prepare  and  unnerve  one  pound  either  of  chicken  or  game;  pass  it  twice  through  the  machine 
(Fig,  47)  to  suppress  all  the  nerves  and  pound  it  to  a  pulp,  take  it  from  the  mortar.  Put  eight 
ounces  of  pate  a  choux,  cream  panada  (No.  121)  into  the  mortar,  pound  it  thoroughly  with  the  same 
weight  of  cooked  veal  udder,  add  the  game  or  chicken  meat,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
two  gills  of  well  reduced  cold  veloute  (No.  415),  six  egg-whites  and  a  little  cream,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  well  picked,  washed  and  blanched  rice,  cooked  in  white  broth  and  cooled.  Mix  to- 
gether and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  This  forcemeat  is  used  for  borders,  surtouts  and  dish  bottoms. 

(80).  FOIES-GEAS  AND  CHICKEN  FOEOEMEAT  FOB  BOEDEES,  BOTTOMS  OF  DISHES  AND 

SURTOUTS  (Farce  de  Foies-Gras  et  de  Volaille  pour  Bordures,  Fonds  de  Plat  et  Surtouts). 

Pound  well  one  pound  of  raw  fat  livers;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  add  eight 

egg-yolks,  one  at  a  time,  continuing  to  pound  the  forcemeat;  put  in  three  pounds  of  chicken 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  191 

quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  when  all  is  well  blended  stand  it  on  ice  to  use  as  needed.  Forcemeat 
borders  are  made  in  special  molds  of  a  crown  form,  lightly  hollowed  on  top,  an  inch  and  a  half  to 
two  inches  high.  The  bottoms  of  dishes  and  the  surtouts  are  not  as  high,  being  only  one  inch  gen- 
erally and  two  inches  in  diameter  narrower  than  the  basin  of  the  dish. 

(81).  BAKING  FORCEMEAT  FOR  ORDINARY  USE  (Parce  a  Gratin  Ordinaire). 
Fry  in  four  ounces  of  melted  lard,  one  bayleaf ,  two  ounces  of  carrots  and  two  ounces  of  celery, 
both  cut  in  dice,  one  shallot  and  two  ounces  of  onions,  both  finely  chopped,  also  one  ounce  of 
truffles,  the  same  of  mushrooms  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  add  its  equal  quantity 
of  calf's  liver  and  two  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  When  the  meats  are  cooked,  let  the  prep- 
aration first  get  cold,  then  pound  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  lay  this  forcemeat  into  a  bowl,  cover 
it  with  buttered  paper  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place;  mix  with  this  three  tablespoonfuls  of  raw 
quenelle  forcemeat,  either  of  veal,  chicken  or  game,  in  order  to  thicken  it,  but  only  just  when 
ready  to  use.  The  liver  may  be  replaced  by  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  or  raw  meat,  either 
lamb,  veal,  chicken  or  game  chopped  up  very  fine  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 

(82).  CHICKEN  GODIVEAU  (Godiveau  de  Volaille). 

One  pound  or  the  wnite  meat  from  a  tender  young  chicken;  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  dry, 
brittle  beef  kidney  suet,  without  skin  or  fibres;  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  spiced  salt  (No.  168) 
two  whole  eggs;  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  cream  panada,  (No.  120);  moisten  and  finish  exactly 
the  same  as  the  veal  godiveau  (No.  85). 

(83).  GODIVEAU  OP  PIKE  (Godiveau  de  Brocket). 

A  pound  of  skinless  and  boneless  pike  meat,  chopped  and  pounded  fine;  two  pounds  of  dry  and 
brittle  beef  kidney  suet  free  of  fat  and  nerves,  also  chopped  up  fine;  mix  the  two  together, 
chop  once  more  and  season  with  an  ounce  of  spiced  salt;  pound  to  a  pulp  to  obtain  a  fine  paste, 
and  incorporate  into  it  gradually,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  cream  panada  (No.  120),  and  after- 
ward twelve  beaten  up  egg-whites.  Try  the  forcemeat  to  see  whether  it  be  too  hard,  if  so  add 
some  cream,  and  if  too  soft,  more  egg-whites. 

(84).  GODIVEAU  OP  RABBIT  OR  OTHER  GAME  (Godiveau  de  Lapereau  ou  Autres  Gibiers). 
Take  one  pound  of  rabbit  meat  or  any  other  game,  one  pound  of  dry,  brittle  beef  kidney  suet 
without  skin  or  fibres,  one  ounce  of  spiced  salt  (general  spices,  No.  168),  six  eggs  and  four  ounces 
of  pate  a  choux  panada  (No.  121).     Moisten  and  finish  the  same  as  the  veal  godiveau  (No.  85). 

(85)-  VEAL  GODIVEAU  (Godiveau  de  Veau). 

Veal  godiveau  frequently  takes  the  place  of  forcemeat  and  is  excellent  if  well  prepared. 

Have  a  pound  of  fresh  veal  meat  cut  off  from  the  kernel  without  any  fat  or  nerves  what- 
ever; cut  it  up  into  inch  pieces,  and  pass  them  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47),  or  in 
case  there  be  no  machine,  chop  them  up  very  finely.  Have  also  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  beef 
kidney  suet,  perfectly  dry  and  brittle,  remove  all  its  skin  and  fibres,  and  chop  it  up  very  finely, 
seasoning  with  one  ounce  of  general  spices  (No.  168).  Pound  well  the  veal,  add  to  it  the  suet, 
and  pound  all  together  to  a  pulp,  so  as  to  form  a  smooth  paste,  then  stir  in  four  whole  eggs  singly, 
as  well  as  four  ounces  of  frangipane  panada  (No.  120),  in  small  quantities  at  the  time.  After  the 
godiveau  is  well  pounded,  put  it  away  for  two  hours  in  a  cool  place,  then  pound  it  over  again, 
moistening  it  gradually  with  ice-water  or  else  small  pieces  of  very  clear  and  clean  ice.  When 
the  godiveau  becomes  sufficiently  soft,  try  its  consistency,  by  poaching  a  quenelle  of  it  in  boiling 
water,  and  if  found  to  be  too  firm,  add  a  little  more  ice-water,  but  if  not  sufficiently  consistent, 
pound  one  ounce  more  panada  with  one  egg,  and  incorporate  the  farce  slowly  to  the  panada, 
or  even  the  egg  alone  will  answer. 

(86).  CHICKEN   FORCEMEAT  FOR  MOUSSELINE  (Parce  de  Volaille  pour  Mousselines). 

Ingredients. — One  pound  of  chicken  breast-meat,  one  egg-white,  two  gills  of  bechamel,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  forcemeat,  and  the  value  of  one  quart  of  whipped  cream. 

Have  one  pound  of  chicken  breast-meat  free  of  nerves;  pass  it  twice  through  the  machine 
(Fig.  47),  pound  it  to  a  pulp  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  season  with  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  red  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  and  incorporate  gradually  into  it  one  egg-white  and  two  gills  of  bechamel  (No.  409). 


192  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Strain  all  this  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  in  a  metal  vessel  on  the  ice  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  work 
it  well  with  a  whip,  incorporating  gradually  into  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  74) 
and  the  value  of  a  quart  of  whipped  cream  thoroughly  drained.  Try  a  little  of  it  in  a  mold  and 
if  too  consistent  add  a  little  more  of  the  whipped  cream. 

(87).  GAME  POKOEMEAT  FOE  MOUSSELINE  (Farce  de  Gibier  pour  Mousselines), 
Take  one  pound  of  the  breast- meat  of  some  raw  game  suppressing  the  skin  and  nerves,  pound 
and  pass  it  through  a  sieve.  Place  this  puree  in  a  tin  vessel  and  mix  in  one  egg-white 
slowly  working  it  gradually  so  that  it  attains  body,  then  incorporate,  always  slowly,  two  or  three 
gills  of  raw  cream  without  once  ceasing  to  mix  the  preparation.  When  mellow  add  four  or  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  puree  of  cooked  foies  gras,  pounded  and  pressed  through  a  sieve,  season,  and 
when  very  smooth  poach  a  small  piece  in  a  small  timbale  in  a  bain-marie  so  to  judge  of  its  con- 
sistency; it  must  be  firm,  although  mellow;  if  found  necessary  add  a  few  egg  yolks. 

(88).  SALMON  rOBOEMEAT  POK  MOUSSELINE  (Parce  de  Saumon  pour  Mousselines). 
One  pound  of  pared  fish  pounded  and  seasoned  with  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  cayenne  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  then  rub  through  the  sieve  the  same  as  the  cream  chicken  forcemeat.  Return  it  to 
the  mortar  and  work  into  it  one  raw  egg-white,  half  a  pint  of  b6chamel  (No.  409)  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  76).  Put  it  on  to  the  ice,  work  vigorously  and  when  very  cold 
incorporate  gradually  into  it  equal  quantity  of  well  drained  whipped  cream.  Serve  this  in  tim- 
bales  as  hors-d'ceuvre  or  garnishing. 

(89).  CHICKEN  QUENELLE  FOEOEMEAT,  WITH  SOUBISE  OE  TOMATO  (Parce  a  Quenelle  de 

Volaille,  Soubise"e  ou  Tornate'e). 

Ingredients  for  these  Quenelles. — One  pound  of  chicken,  half  a  pound  of  pate  a  chou  panada 
(No.  121);  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  an  ounce  of  salt  and  nutmeg,  six  egg-yolks,  one 
whole  egg,  one  pint  of  chicken  cream  forcemeat.  In  order  to  make  chicken  or  game  forcemeats 
only  the  breasts  are  used,  having  them  well  pared,  cut  in  pieces  and  pass  through  the  machine 
(Fig.  47).  Put  this  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  to  a  pulp,  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  pound  it  once 
more,  and  add  to  it  the  panada,  putting  it  in  gradually,  then  the  butter  or  udder,  without 
stopping  the  pounding  process,  and  afterward  the  egg-yolks  one  by  one,  season  with  salt  and 
nutmeg,  rub  the  forcemeat  again  through  the  sieve,  and  then  lay  it  in  a  thin  metal  vessel  on  the 
ice,  and  beat  it  up  again  for  a  few  minutes  so  as  to  render  it  smooth.  Poach  a  small  piece  of  it, 
and  if  found  to  be  too  consistent,  then  thin  it  with  a  little  cold  sauce  or  raw  cream,  and  keep 
it  in  a  cool  place  until  needed.  Instead  of  using  veloute  or  cream,  one  pint  of  chicken  cream 
forcemeat  (No.  75),  may  be  added,  made  of  chicken,  egg-whites  and  cream.  Quenelle  forcemeats 
made  of  chicken  can  be  used  with  soubise  or  tomatoes  by  mixing  in  either  some  soubise  (No.  543), 
or  fine  consistent  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  instead  of  the  cream  or  veloute. 

(90)  FISH  QUENELLE  POECEMEAT  (Farce  a  Quenelle  de  Poisson), 

Fish  forcemeats  are  prepared  with  the  raw  meats  of  either  pike,  bass  or  sheepshead,  increasing 
the  weight  with  panada  for  those  fishes  requiring  more  consistence,  such  as  cod,  etc.  Any  fish 
lacking  body,  such  as  whiting,  etc.,  can  be  mixed  with  sheepshead,  bass  or  others.  Pike  meat  is 
renowned  as  having  plenty  of  consistence  and  is  easy  to  procure.  Prepare  one  pound  of  pike 
meat  free  of  bones  and  skin,  pound  it  well  and  when  reduced  to  a  paste  take  it  out  of  the  mortar. 
Pound  one  pound  of  cream  panada  (No.  120),  with  eight  ounces  of  lobster  butter,  add  the  pike 
meat,  pound  again  all  together,  then  mix  in  slowly  six  raw  egg-yolks,  salt,  nutmeg,  sweet  peppers 
and  Hungarian  paprika  pepper;  press  the  forcemeat  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  'in  a  thin  metal 
vessel  on  ice.  beat  it  well  to  have  it  smooth.  Poach  a  small  piece  to  try  its  consistence  and  rectify 
if  needed,  either  by  adding  cream  or  panada,  mixing  the  farce  to  the  latter,  a  little  at  the  time. 
To  this  forcemeat  is  frequently  added  some  tomatoed  soubise  or  mushroom  puree  and  if  required  to 
be  very  light  beat  in  two  well  whipped  egg-whites. 

(91).  GAME  QUENELLE  FOEOEMEAT  (Farce  a  Quenelle  de  Gibier). 

Ingredients. — One  pound  of  game,  half  a  pound  of  calf's  udder,  half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs 
soaked  in  hot  milk,  salt,  red  pepper,  nutmeg,  four  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  193 

Pass  one  pound  of  the  breast  of  game  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47),  pound  it  to  a 
pulp  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  then  set  it  in  a  cool  place  or  on  the  ice.  Soak  some  bread-crumbs 
in  milk,  extract  from  them  all  the  liquid,  let  them  dry  and  get  cool;  pound  the  bread-crumbs  with 
calf's  udder  in  four  different  parts  and  continue  the  process  until  all  is  done,  then  season  with  salt, 
red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  half  an  ounce  in  all;  add  to  this  the  game  pulp,  and  continue  pounding 
for  ten  minutes,  then  mix  in  four  egg-yolks,  singly,  and  one  whole  egg.  Poach  one  of  the  que- 
nelles in  boiling  water  to  discover  its  consistency,  and  if  found  necessary  to  rectify  refer  to  No.  60. 

(92).  LAMB  OR  VEAL  QUENELLE  FORCEMEAT  (Parce  a  Quenelle  d'Agneau  ou  de  Veau), 
Procure  one  pound  of  either  lean  fillet,  or  kernel  of  lamb  or  veal;  ten  ounces  of  cooked  calf's 
udder;  four  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  ten  ounces  of  panada  with  flour  (No.  121),  three  quarters 
of  an  ounce  of  salt,  nutmeg  and  red  pepper:  suppress  the  fat  and  skin  from  the  meat,  cut  it  into 
half  inch  squares,  put  this  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47),  then  pound  the  meat,  and  when 
converted  into  a  paste  rub  it  forcibly  through  a  round  sieve  (Fig.  142),  or  any  other  one  not  too 
fine;  take  it  out  of  the  mortar,  lay  in  the  panada,  pound  it  fine,  add  to  it  the  calf's  udder,  a  little 
at  the  time,  then  the  seasonings  and  strained  meat,  also  the  egg-yolks  singly,  and  the  whole  eggs; 
pound  again  and  after  the  preparation  is  thoroughly  blended,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Set 
this  forcemeat  into  a  bowl,  and  stir  it  up  a  few  moments  with  a  spoon;  poach  one  quenelle  in  boil- 
ing water  to  judge  of  its  consistency,  and  if  too  hard,  mix  into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cold  veloute 
(No.  415),  or  raw  cream;  if,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  too  thin,  pound  a  little  panada  to  smooth  it 
down,  and  mix  it  in  gradually  with  the  forcemeat,  by  so  doing  it  assumes  a  greater  consistency. 

(93),  DIFFERENT  FORCEMEATS  FOR  RAVIOLES  OF  BEEF,  CHICKEN  AND  VEAL  (Differeutes 
Farces  pour  Ravioles  de  Bceuf,  Volatile  et  Veau). 

For  Beef. — Half  a  pound  of  cooked  chopped  tenderloin  of  beef,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  brains 
in  small  one-eighth  squares,  two  ounces  of  cooked  and  chopped  ham,  two  ounces  of  chopped 
spinach.  Two  ounces  of  grated  parmesan;  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  three  egg-yolks  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream.  All  these  ingredients  well  mixed  and  to  be  used  for  square  ravioles. 

Chicken. — Half  a  pound  of  chopped  white  or  black  poultry  meat,  and  half  a  pound  of  chopped 
veal  udder;  pound  well  together  with  four  egg-yolks  and  a  gill  of  veloute;  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  mix  into  this  preparation  four  ounces  of  parmesan  cheese;  this  is  for  round 
ravioles. 

Veal. — Fry  two  ounces  of  onions  in  four  ounces  of  butter  without  allowing  it  to  take  color  ; 
moisten  with  broth,  reduce  to  a  glaze  and  put  in  the  veal,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg; 
add  four  egg-yolks  and  chopped  parsley.  Make  triangular  shaped  ravioles  with  this. 

(94).  TO  PREPARE  GELATINE  FROM  CALF'S  FEET  (Pour  Preparer  la  Colle  de  Pieds  de  Veau). 

Calf's  feet  gelatine  is  more  especially  used  for  preparing  jelly  and  gelatineous  sweet  dishes. 
Soak  seven  or  eight  very  fresh  calve's  feet,  split  in  two,  having  the  bones  all  extracted,  put  them 
into  a  small  soup-pot  with  water  and  let  the  liquid  boil  for  ten  minutes;  then  drain  it  off,  also  the 
feet;  cool  these  off  and  return  them  to  the  clean  soup-pot  with  two  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  the  juice  of 
four  lemons,  and  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine.  Cover  with  water,  then  heat  the  liquid  while  skim- 
ming, and  at  the  first  boil  set  it  on  the  stove  to  obtain  a  regular  and  continuous  ebullition  for  four  to 
five  hours,  strain  the  liquid  into  a  bowl  and  let  it  get  very  cold.  When  the  gelatine  is  firm,  remove 
all  the  fat  from  the  top,  then  wash  the  surface  with  warm  water  so  that  not  a  vestige  of  grease  re- 
mains. Lift  out  the  jelly  without  disturbing  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  arid  put  it 
back,  either  all  or  part  into  a  saucepan  to  melt. 

For  one  quart  of  gelatine,  mix  in  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  broken  sugar  and  the  juice  of 
four  lemons;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  test  the  consistency  so  as  to  rectify  it  if  necessary,  by 
adding  either  more  water  or  more  gelatine,  according  to  its  strength  or  weakness.  Beat  four  egg- 
whites  without  getting  them  frothy,  put  these  into  one  gill  of  cold  water  and  pour  it  over  the  dis- 
solved gelatine,  place  the  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire,  beat  the  liquid  slowly  till  it  is  about  reaching 
boiling  point,  then  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  fire,  so  that  the  liquid  quivers,  but  does  not 
boil;  now  add  the  juice  of  four  lemons,  cover  the  saucepan  and  keep  it  near  the  boiling  point  for 
thirty  minutes,  the  gelatine  should  now  be  limpid.  Filter  it  through  a  bag  or  strain  it  through  a 
napkin  fastened  to  the  four  feet  of  a  filtering  stool  (Fig.  51)  and  pour  it  back  into  the  filter 
until  it  becomes  perfectly  clear;  this  operation  must  be  performed  in  a  very  warm  place. 


194  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(95).  TO  PEEPAEE  PIG'S  SKIN  GELATINE  (Pour  Preparer  la  Colle  de  Gjuenne). 
Soak  in  cold  water  for  five  or  six  hours,  six  pounds  of  fresh  pork  skin;  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  cold  water  to  double  its  height,  and  blanch  it  in  this  water  until  it  boils,  then  drain  and  re- 
fresh it;  scrape  off  the  pieces  one  by  one,  wash  them  well,  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan  with 
more  clean,  cold  water  and  boil  the  liquid  while  skimming  it;  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  or  on 
the  gas  stove,  and  add  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  then  continue  boiling  for  seven  hours,  skim- 
ming it  frequently.  Pass  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  let  it  get  cold  and  firm  on  ice, 
then  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  top  and  wash  the  surface  off  with  very  hot  water;  melt  it  once 
more  to  mix  it  in  with  the  necessary  broth  and  clarify  it  with  meat  and  eggs  or  white  of  eggs,  pro- 
ceeding the  same  as  for  aspic-jelly  (No.  103). 

(96).  GHEEKINS  (Cornichons). 

Cut  off  the  stalks  and  ends  from  small  gherkin  cucumbers;  put  a  few  handfuls  in  a  coarse 
towel  or  bag,  with  a  heavy  handful  of  kitchen  salt,  shake  them  in  this  bag  to  cleanse  well  and  re- 
move all  the  outer  roughness  and  then  toss  them  on  a  large  sieve  to  free  them  of  the  salt; 
range  in  a  barrel,  pour  over  a  brine  made  with  sufficient  salt  to  float  an  egg  or  a  potato  on  its  sur- 
face, cover,  and  on  top  lay  a  heavy  weight  to  keep  them  under  water;  leave  them  so  for 
six  days.  Now  drain  off  the  brine  and  return  to  the  barrel  more  fresh  brine,  it  containing  a» 
much  salt  as  the  first  one;  put  back  both  cover  and  weight  to  keep  them  submerged  under  the 
liquid  and  leave  stand  in  a  cool  place.  After  a  short  time  a  scum  will  form  on  the  surface;  this 
must  in  no  ways  be  disturbed  until  the  gherkins  are  needed,  for  it  acts  as  a  protector,  preventing 
any  air  from  penetrating  into  the  liquid.  When  the  gherkins  are  wanted  for  use,  take  them  from 
the  brine;  unsalt  by  putting  them  in  fresh  water  for  twelve  hours.  Pour  half  water  and  half  vine- 
gar in  an  untinned  copper  basin,  throw  into  it  a  small  bagful  of  spices,  such  as  cloves,  peppers, 
mustard  seeds  and  mace.  Place  on  the  fire  and  at  the  first  boil,  plunge  in  the  well  drained  gher- 
kins and  leave  to  bubble  for  a  few  moments,  then  remove  the  basin  from  the  fire  and  put  both 
gherkins  and  vinegar  into  a  large  jar  or  barrel  to  cool  off;  put  in  with  them  a  handful  of  tarragon, 
some  small  blanched  onions  and  shallots  and  a  few  red  peppers;  stand  this  in  a  well  aired  place  for 
a  few  days  and  the  gherkins  will  be  then  ready  for  use. 

(97).  GEATED  PAEMESAN  AND  SWISS  CHEESE  (Fromage  Parmesan  et  Fromage  de  Gruyere  rap6). 
Cut  off  all  the  rind  from  the  cheese,  leaving  no  black  part  on  whatever;  grate  by  rubbing  the 
cheese  against  a  sufficiently  coarse  grater  (Fig.  177)  until  it  is  all  consumed;  keep  in  a  cool  but  not 
too  damp  place. 

(98).  GEATED  HOESEEADISH  AND  HOESEEADISH  EIBBONS  (Eaifort  EapS  et  en  Eubans). 

Grated  horseradish  should  be  made  of  clean,  fresh  horseradish  root,  peeled  or  scraped,  washed 
and  dried,  then  rubbed  against  a  large  grater;  it  can  either  be  served  fresh  or  put  into  a  stone  jar 
with  salt  and  vinegar,  corking  it  well  to  preserve  till  needed.  For  horseradish  ribbons,  peel 
the  root  the  same  as  for  grating,  and  scrape  it  with  the  sharp  blade  of  a  knife,  held  at  an  angle 
from  the  top  to  the  bottom;  by  this  method  fine  ribbons  of  the  root  are  obtained;  let  them  be  as 
long  as  it  is  possible  to  have  them.  Long  horseradish  should  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

(99).  COOKED  CHOCOLATE  ICING  (Glace  Cuite  au  Chocolat). 

Put  into  a  sugar-pan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  unsweetened  chocolate;  let  it  soften  at  the  oven 
door,  and  dilute  it  with  two  gills  of  warm  syrup  at  sixteen  degrees,  or  simply  with  water,  then  add 
to  the  liquid  some  icing  sugar,  so  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  preparation  neither  too  soft  nor  too  thin. 

(100),  COOKED  COCOA  ICING  (Glace  Ouite  au  Cacao). 

Dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cocoa  or  unsweetened  chocolate  in  a  sugar-pan;  cook  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  in  another  pan  with  one  pint  of  water  till  it  reaches  the  degree  of 
small  thread,  mash  the  cocoa  with  a  spoon,  dilute  it  gradually  with  the  cooked  sugar,  then  cook 
all  together  until  it  reaches  small  thread  again;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  rub  it  against  the  sides  of 
the  pan  with  a  spoon  in  order  to  mass  it  well;  this  icing  is  used  to  ice  Genoese,  eclairs  and  a  variety 
of  small  cakes. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


195 


(101).  KOYAL  ICING,  AND  EOYAL  ICING  FLAVORED  WITH  ZESTS  (Glace  Koyale  et  Glace  Eoyale 

Parfume'e  aux  Zestes.) 

Royal  Icing. — Put  into  a  vessel  the  whites  of  one  or  several  eggs  (those  not  too  fresh  are  pref- 
erable), and  add  to  them  some  icing  sugar,  sifted  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  sufficient  to  have 
the  eggs  and  sugar  combined;  form  into  a  running  paste,  add  several  drops,  either  of 
lemon  juice  or  acetic  acid,  according  to  the  quantity  of  icing.  With  a  wooden  spatula 
beat  up  slowly  to  begin,  then  continue  the  action  more  briskly,  always  turning  it  in  such  a  way  that 
the  air  may  enter,  which  helps  to  make  the  icing  lighter  and  firmer.  Beat  it  until  the  spoon,  being 
lifted  from  the  icing,  it  stands  on  it  upright,  without  falling  off.  This  royal  icing  is  excellent  for 
decorating  pieces,  cakes,  etc.,  but  for  flowers  or  decorations  to  be  made  entirely  of  royal  icing,  then 
after  beating,  add  more  icing  sugar,  but  do  not  get  it  too  hard.  Koyal  icing  can  be  made  any  color 
by  using  vegetable  colors. 

Royal  Icing  flavored  until  Zests. — Put  into  a  basin,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  add  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  sugar  flavored  either  with  orange  or  lemon  zest,  adding  gradually  sufficient  white  of  egg  to 
allow  it  to  flow;  this  icing  is  used  for  covering  cakes. 

a02).  ICING  WITH  SYEUP  POE  CAKES  FLAVOEED  WITH  VANILLA,  OEANGE,  LEMON  OE 
PETJIT  JUICES  (Glace  au  Sirop  pour  Gateaux  Parfum6e  soit  a  la  Vanille,  a  1'Orange,  au 
Citron  on  au  Jus  de  Fruits), 

Put  one  pint  of  water  and  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  saucepan,  adding  half  a  vanilla  bean  or  else 
some  orange  or  lemon  peel;  stand  it  on  the  fire,  let  boil  up  a  few  times  to  obtain  a  syrup,  then 
remove  the  saucepan  from  the  range  immediately,  suppress  the  vanilla  or  peels  and  incorporate 
sufficient  sugar  to  form  a  very  smooth  flowing  paste. 

For  Uncooked  Fruit  Juice  Icing. — Prepare  it  with  strawberry,  raspberry,  currant  or  pine- 
apple juice.  Simply  crush  the  ripe,  fresh  fruits,  pour  them  on  a  sieve  to  collect  all  the  liquid. 
Put  some  icing  sugar  in  a  vessel,  dissolve  it  with  a  little  thirty-degree  syrup,  and  the  fruit  juice, 
incorporating  the  liquid  slowly;  just  before  using  this  icing  warm  it  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel, 
stirring  it  during  the  operation.  The  icing  sugars  are  colored  according  to  taste  and  are  used  for 
icing  Genoeses,  pouring  it  over  or  else  dipping  in  all  kinds  of  small  cakes,  such  as  eclairs,  etc. 

(103).  TO  PEEPAEE,  CLAEIFY  AND  FILTEE  ASPIC  JELLY  (Pour  Preparer  la  GelSe  d'Aspic,  la 

Clarifier  et  la  Filtrer). 


Aspic  or  meat  jelly  is  prepared  with  chicken  or  game  broth,  obtaining  it  as  clear  as  possible, 
and  mixing  it  with  a  certain  quantity  of  gelatine  made  either  with  calf's  feet  or  pig  skin,  or  even 

with  isinglass.     Aspics  are  also  prepared  with  special  stocks  made  under  the 

following  conditions:  brown  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  breast  of  veal,  one 

knuckle,  and  two  fowls,  suppressing  the  breasts;  when  the  meats  are  lightly 

colored  moisten  them  amply  with  some  light  broth,  free  of  all  fat,  and  add 

to  it  four  or  five  boned  and  blanched  calf's  feet,  also 

some  roots  and  onions,  a  garnished  bouquet,  but  no 

salt,  boil  the  liquid  while  skimming,  remove  it  to 

the  side  of  the  range,  and  finish  cooking  the  meats, 

lifting  them  out  as  soon  as  they  are  done.     Strain 

the  liquid  through  a  sieve,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  try 

a  little  of  it  on  ice  to  judge  of  its  consistency,  and 

should  it  not  be  sufficiently  firm,  then  heat  it  up 

once  more,  and  stir  into  it  a  few  gelatine  leaves 

softened  in  cold  water  and  dissolved  in  a  small 

separate    saucepan.      The    aspic    should  never  be 

reduced   with  the  idea    of    rendering    it    firmer, 
FIG.  so.  because  the  boiling  only  wastes  it  without  thick- 

ening it;  chop  one  pound  of  lean  beef,  one  pound  for  two  quarts  of  liquid,  add  to  it  four 
egg-whites  or  two  whole  eggs  and  one  pint  of  white  wine,  dilute  it  gradually  with  the  aspic 
jelly,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  stir  the  liquid  with  a  whisk  until  the  instant  boiling 
point  is  reached,  then  remove  it  to  one  side,  and  let  it  simmer  very  slowly,  till  it  becomes  perfectly 
clear,  then  strain  it  through  a  flannel  bag  (Fig.  50) ;  or  moisten  a  clean  napkin  and  arrange  it 
on  a  kitchen  filtering  stool  as  shown  in  Fig.  51;  should  the  jelly  not  be  sufficiently  limpid,  pour  it 
through  again  until  perfectly  clear. 


FIG.  51. 


196  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(104).  CALFS  FOOT  JELLY  WITH  MADEIEA  WINE  (Gelfe  de  Pieds  de  Veau  an  vin  de  Madere). 
Take  the  value  of  one  quart  of  calf's  foot  gelatine  and  mix  into  it  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar  and  the  juice  of  four  lemons.  After  the  sugar  is  dissolved  try  its  consistency  to  rectify  it  if 
necessary,  adding  more  water  or  more  gelatine  according  to  whether  it  be  too  soft  or  too  hard. 
Beat  up  four  egg-whites  without  letting  them  come  to  a  froth,  mix  in  a  gill  of  cold  water  and  pour 
this  over  the  dissolved  gelatine;  set  the  untinned  basin  on  a  moderate  fire,  whip  the  liquid  slowly 
until  on  the  verge  of  boiling,  then  withdraw  it  to  a  slower  heat  and  keep  the  liquid  simmering  with- 
out boiling;  now  add  the  juice  of  four  lemons;  cover  and  leave  stand  for  thirty  minutes.  The  jelly 
should  now  be  limpid;  filter  it  through  a  flannel  bag  or  a  napkin  fastened  to  the  four  feet  of  a 
filtering  stool  (Fig.  51),  return  the  jelly  to  the  bag  and  continue  the  operation  until  it  passes 
through  clearly;  this  should  be  done  in  a  warm  place,  As  soon  as  the  jelly  is  properly  filtered  let 
it  stand  until  cold  and  then  add  one  gill  of  good  Madeira,  pour  it  into  a  mold  previously 
imbedded  in  ice  and  leave  it  for  one  hour  and  a  half  to  set. 

(105).  MEAT  JELLY  WITH  GELATINE  (Gel6e  de  Viande  a  la  Gelatine). 
Put  four  quarts  of  good  broth  with  one  pound  of  gelatine  into  a  saucepan,  adding  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  pepper-corns,  two  cloves,  a  few  branches  of  celery  and  a  little  mace,  put  it  on  to  the 
fire  and  stir  continuously  with  a  whip  until  the  liquid  boils;  season  to  taste.  Break  six  eggs, 
put  them  with  their  shells  into  a  bowl  and  beat  them  up  a  little  mixing  in  with  them,  half  a  bottle 
of  white  wine  or  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  Madeira,  one  gill  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a  quart  of 
small  pieces  of  clean  ice,  dilute  this  with  a  quart  of  the  liquid  jelly,  and  pour  the  clarification  into 
the  remainder  of  the  jelly,  stirring  it  constantly,  then  return  the  saucepan  to  the  fire  and  continue 
the  beating.  When  the  jelly  has  reached  the  boiling  degree,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  keep 
it  very  warm  for  half  an  hour,  but  it  must  not  boil  again;  filter  as  indicated  (No.  103). 

(106).  SWEET  JELLY  WITH  GELATINE,  OR  FISH  ISINGLASS  (Gel^e  Douce  a  la  G61atine  ou  k 

la  Oolle  de  Poisson). 

Put  into  a  basin  four  quarts  of  water,  three  pounds  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  gelatine  or  ten 
ounces  of  fish  isinglass  and  the  peel  of  eight  lemons,  stir  the  whole  well  together  until  the  sugar  is 
melted,  then  set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire  and  beat  well  with  a  whip;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil  put 
in  twelve  partly  beaten  egg-whites  into  which  has  been  added  the  juice  of  twelve  lemons;  mix  the 
whole  well  together  stirring  unceasingly  and  allowing  it  to  boil  slowly  from  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes, then  withdraw  the  basin  from  the  fire  and  let  the  jelly  rest  for  a  few  moments;  now  pour  it 
through  a  flannel  bag  upheld  by  a  ring  (Fig.  50);  return  it  several  times  until  it  acquires  a  perfect 
limpidity.  The  lemon-peel  can  be  suppressed,  flavoring  it  with  any  kind  of  liquor  or  clarified 
fruit  juice. 

(107).  LAED  (Saindoux). 

Lard  is  the  produce  of  leaf  lard  melted  with  fat  pork;  this  operation  showld  be  performed 
rapidly,  especially  in  summer  time.  Remove  the  membranes  and  sanguineous  parts  from  all  that  is 
required  for  making  the  lard — say  about  twenty  pounds;  cut  the  leaf  lard  and  fat  pork  into  half 
inch  squares  and  steep  them  separately  for  two  hours  in  an  abundance  of  cold  water  using  twelve 
quarts  for  each  and  two  ounces  of  crystal  soda  also  for  each;  wash  both  in  several  waters,  keeping 
them  separated;  drain  and  lay  first  the  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan  with  four  quarts  of  water,  melt  it  on 
a  slow  fire  being  careful  to  stir  the  bottom  frequently;  as  it  melts  it  becomes  white  and  milky,  then 
transparent,  when  in  this  state,  strain  it  through  a  colander  and  return  it  to  a  clean  saucepan  add- 
ing the  leaf  lard;  set  it  on  a  good  fire  and  stir  incessantly  until  the  squares  become  dry  and  brown, 
then  strain  the  fat,  press  well  the  squares,  leave  to  cool  slightly,  afterward  adding  a  gill  of  water 
for  every  two  pounds  of  the  fat.  Beat  the  whole  vigorously,  let  cool  and  draw  off  the  clear  part 
before  the  fat  has  had  time  to  congeal,  just  when  it  begins  to  set,  beat  thoroughly  to  have  it 
smooth. 

(108).  AXUNGE  (Axonge). 

Axunge  is  exclusively  obtained  by  melting  leaf  lard  without  using  any  other  material;  axunge 
is  finer  than  lard  and  is  also  employed  for  kitchen  and  pastry  purposes.  The  leaf  lard  is  melted 
in  a  bain-marie  or  by  steam,  this  latter  method  being  preferable.  Remove  the  skin  and  fibers 
from  ten  pounds  of  leaf  lard,  cut  it  up  in  squares  about  half  an  inch  each  and  bathe  them  in 
eighteen  quarts  of  water  with  half  a  pound  of  crystal  soda;  wash  in  several  waters,  drain  and 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  19? 

pound  in  a  mortar,  then  put  it  into  a  well  tinned  copper  basin  in  a  bain-marie  and  steam  by  keep- 
ing the  water  boiling  all  the  time  until  the  lard  is  all  melted,  now  strain  it  through  a  fine  colander 
and  leave  to  cool  slightly,  adding  one  pint  of  cold  water,  stir  well,  let  it  rest,  then  pour  off  the  clear 
1  art  when  it  begins  to  set,  beat  well  to  have  it  smooth. 

(109).  VEAL  UDDER  (Te"tine  de  Veau). 

Veal  Udder  is  the  fatty  part  covering  a  kernel  of  veal;  remove  it  entirely,  tie  it  up  and  cook 
in  plenty  of  white  broth;  when  done  take  it  out,  pull  off  the  string  and  press  it  lightly  under  a 
weight.  Pare  and  cut  it  either  into  strips,  squares  or  bands,  etc.  It  is  used  in  forcemeats  instead 
of  butter,  pass  it  twice  through  the  machine,  pound  well  and  then  pass  through  a  sieve.  The  way 
to  keep  it  is  to  leave  it  covered  in  a  cool  place  or  else  cover  over  entirely  with  salt. 

(110).  TO  PREPARE  LARDING  PORK  (Pour  Pre~parer  le  Lard  a  Piquer). 

Lift  the  bands  of  pork  leaving  as  little  meat  on  as  possible,  from  the  first  rib  to  the  end  of  the 
loin;  lay  them  in  brine  for  three  months,  then  drain  off,  and  put  them  on  a  table  to  rub  one  by  one 
and  cover  with  salt.  Set  them  one  on  top  of  the  other  in  a  cool,  dry  place  and  range  a  board  over 
with  a  weight  on  top;  turn  them  over,  and  throw  on  some  salt,  and  at  the  end  of  a  month  change 
those  from  the  bottom  to  the  top,  and  three  months  after,  fasten  a  strong  twine  to  each  piece,  and 
hang  them  up  separately  in  a  cold,  dark  room  to  dry. 

Another  Way. — The  piece  of  pork  taken  from  the  back  is  the  only  one  to  use  for  larding  pur- 
poses, as  it  is  firm  and  not  liable  to  crack.  Remove  all  the  meat  from  it,  and  cut  it  into  an  oblong 
piece,  this  being  called  a  band;  salt  it  dry  with  fine  salt  for  three  or  four  weeks,  and  if  it  be  neces- 
sary to  use  it  shortly  after  its  salting,  then  rub  it  with  very  fine  salt,  and  hang  it  up  in  a  dry  and 
cool  place.  This  pork  must  be  salted  toward  the  end  of  the  winter;  fat  pork  never  receives  more 
salt  than  it  needs,  whichever  way  it  may  be  employed,  or  however  long  the  operation  may  last. 

(111).  TO  CUT  PAT  PORK  FOR  LARDING  (Manure  de  Tailler  le  Lard  Pour  Piquer), 
The  larding  pork  must  be  white  and  firm,  perfectly  dry  and  cooled  on  ice,  specially  in  summer 
so  to  make  it  harder  and  to  be  enabled  to  cut  it  more  evenly.  Divide  the  pork  into  the  required 
length  leaving  on  the  rind;  remove  a  slice  from  the  top  of  the  necessary  thickness  to  have  the  pork 
of  the  same  thickness  throughout,  paring  the  two  ends  square,  then  divide  it  into  lardons  at  equal 
distances  cutting  them  perpendicularly  as  far  down  as  the  rind,  for  this  use  a  thin  knife,  called  a 
lard  slicer,  and  cut  the  lard  the  size  designated  by  Fig.  52,  then  cut  them  horizontally  to 
obtain  very  square  lardons  of  the  desired  size. 


FIG.  52.  FIG.  53.— Larding  Needle  for  Beef  &  la  Mode. 

FIG.  54.— Trussing  Needle. 
FIG.  55. — Large  Larding  Needle. 

No.  1,  lardons  as  represented  in  the  figure  are  from  three  to  four-eighths  of  an  inch  square, 
by  three  and  one-quarter  to  four  inches  long.  This  size  is  for  larding  beef  a  la  mode,  braised 
tongue,  kernel  of  veal,  leg  of  mutton,  etc. 

No.  2,  are  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  square  by  two  and  one  quarter  inches  long;  this  size  is 
convenient  for  saddles  of  venison,  fricandeaux,  tenderloins  of  beef,  etc. 

No.  3,  these  are  five-thirty-seconds  of  an  inch  square,  by  two  inches  in  length;  this  size  is  for 
poultry,  large  game,  fish,  sweetbreads,  veal  cutlets,  etc. 

No.  4,  lardons  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch  square,  by  one  and  three-quarter  inches  long;  this 
size  is  for  small  game,  pigeons,  chickens,  etc. 

The  lardons  as  shown  in  the  figures  are  represented  one  quarter  their  actual  size. 

(112).  TO  LARD  MEAT,  POULTRY  AND  GAME  (Pour  Piquer  les  Viandes  la  Volaille  et  le  Gibier). 

If  it  be  butcher's  meat,  pare  it  properly  by  removing  in  strips  the  skin  covering  the  meat,  then 
all  the  superfluous  iai. 


198 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


The  way  to  lard  a  tenderloin  is  to  pare  a  fine  tenderloin  of  beef,  weighing  six  pounds  after  it 
is  trimmed;  remove  the  fat,  slide  the  blade  of  a  thin  knife  between  the  skin  and  the  meat  and 
press  it  on  the  skin  so  as  to  avoid  injuring  the  flesh;  remove  also  the  superfluous  fat  on  the  side, 
then  cut  the  two  ends  round  shaped.  Choose  a  larding  needle  of  suitable  size  to  hold  the  larding 
pork  that  should  be  cut  into  pieces  of  three-sixteenths  by  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long;  lay  the 
tenderloin  lengthwise  on  a  heavy  towel,  place  this  over  the  left  arm,  then  proceed  to  lard  the  meat 
with  the  larding  needle  threaded  with  a  piece  of  the  pork,  boring  the  meat  from  right  to  left. 
The  needle  containing  the  pork  must  be  stuck  in  the  flesh  to  a  depth  depending  upon  its  length, 
but  the  needle  must  be  withdrawn  with  one  stroke,  so  that  the  pork  remains  in  the  meat  visible  of 


FIG.  57. 


FIG.  59. 


an  equal  length  on  both  sides.  After  the  first  row  is  larded,  the  next  one  should  be  slipped  exactly 
between  those  of  the  first  row;  then  instead  of  larding  between  the  two  lards  of  the  last  row,  begin 
the  operation  from  the  start,  which  means  lard  two  more  rows  the  same  as  the  first,  observing  that 
the  second  ones  are  arranged  contrarywise  to  the  first  two,  then  continue  until  the  whole  tender- 
loin is  filled.  Proceed  exactly  the  same  for  fricandeau,  racks  of  veal,  grenadins  or  sweetbreads. 

When  a  piece  of  poultry  or  game  is  required  to  be  larded,  it  must  first  be  drawn,  singed  and 
trussed,  then  singe  the  breast  once  more,  or  else  dip  this  part  into  boiling  water  to  harden  the 
meat;  after  this  is  cold,  lard  with  lardons  adapted  to  their  size.  This  in  fact  is  the  whole  theory 
of  larding,  and  by  examining  various  larded  pieces,  one  can  easily  become  an  adept  in  the  art. 

(113),  LEMONS;  TO  OUT  THEM  IS  VAEIOUS  MANNERS  (Citrons  Tallies  de  Diff6rentes  Manieres). 

First  wash  and  wipe  the  lemons,  then  cut  them  length- 
wise in  four,  to  serve  either  with  oysters  or  fried  fish. 

Channeled  slices  of  lemon  are  made  by  cutting  small 
notches  on  the  lemon  lengthways  of  the  peel,  then  cutting 
the  lemon  in  crosswise  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
These  are  used  for  garnishing  broiled  fish.  Slices  of  lemon 
cut  the  same  way  without  being  channeled,  are  frequently 
served  with  tea. 

Halved  lemons  are  prepared  by  paring  off  the  two 
ends  and  then  make  sixteen  notches  in  the  center,  the 
third  of  the  length  of  the  lemon  with  the  tip  of  a  small 

these    gashes    should    be  very  regular;    run  the  knife   through   as  far  as  the  center, 
eight    cuts    to  the    right    and    eight   to    the    left,   this    makes    eight    long   triangles; 


Fro. 


FIG.  61. 


knife; 
having 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  199 

detach  the  lemon  in  two  parts  (Fig.  60).  These  are  used  also  for  cold  fish  and  hatelets  or 
skewers  (Fig.  61). 

Shells  of  lemon  can  also  be  made,  making  two  shells  from  one  lemon.  Cut  from  the  center  of 
the  lemon,  beginning  at  the  stalk,  as  far  as  the  middle  of  one  side  and  from  the  other  end  of  the 
lemon  as  far  as  the  middle  of  the  other  side,  about  one  half  inch  of  the  peel,  without  detaching  it; 
cut  across  the  lemon,  keeping  the  ribbon  of  the  peel  intact,  thus  producing  two  identical  pieces; 
these  halved  shells  are  used  for  garnishing  fried  fishes  such  as  sole  a  la  Colbert,  etc. 

(114).  COOKED  MARINADE  (Marinade  Quite). 

Mince  one  pound  of  carrots,  as  much  onions  and  half  a  pound  of  celery  root;  fry  all  these 
vegetables  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard  without  letting  them  attain  color,  and  moisten  with 
two  quarts  of  vinegar  and  one  quart  of  water  or  more  according  to  the  strength  of  the  vinegar. 
Add  an  ounce  of  parsley  leaves,  three  bayleaves  and  as  much  thyme,  half  an  ounce  of  basil, 
garlic,  cloves,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  tablespoonful  of  crushed  whole  peppers  and  the  same  quantity  of 
allspice,  and  some  salt.  Boil  the  whole  for  half  an  hour,  put  it  aside  to  get  cold  and  use  this 
marinade  for  marinating  venison,  mutton,  hare,  etc. 

(115).  RAW  MARINADE  (Marinade  Orue). 

There  are  two  kinds  of  raw  marinade;  the  first  one  is  made  of  oil,  minced  onions,  branches  of 
parsley,  thyme,  bayleaf,  slices  of  lemon,  salt,  mignonette,  garlic  and  basil.  The  second  one  is 
made  of  two  quarts  of  vinegar,  four  quarts  of  water,  minced  carrots  and  onions,  bayleaf,  a  clove  of 
garlic,  thyme,  basil,  mace,  whole  peppers  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 

(116).  HOW  TO  DRESS  MERINGUES  (Pour  Dresser  les  Meringues). 

Prepare  a  meringue  paste  as  in  No.  140.  Pour  the  preparation 
into  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  socket  and  push  it  into  rounds  on  to 
white  paper  bands;  dust  them  over  with  fine  sugar  and  press  down 
the  middle  lightly,  so  as  to  efface  the  tip,  formed  by  the  socket,  then 
range  these  paper  bands  on  top  of  some  wet  boards.  Cook  the 
meringues  on  these  boards  in  a  very  slack  oven,  leaving  them 
in  for  fifty  minutes;  they  must  be  of  a  fine  golden  color  and 
well-dried;  after  taking  them  from  the  oven,  detach  them  carefully 

from  the  paper,  and  remove  all  the  soft  parts  from  the  insides,  using  a  teaspoon  for  this  purpose, 
then  lay  them  immediately  on  a  raised  edged  tin  sheet,  one  beside  the  other,  the  hollow  part  up- 
permost, and  keep  them  in  a  warm  heater  for  twelve  hours. 

(117).  MINCE  MEAT  (Mince  Meat). 

Suppress  all  fibers  and  skin  from  half  a  pound  of  beef  kidney  suet,  chop  it  up  very  finely; 
have  also  chopped  half  a  pound  of  cooked  ox  heart;  seed  and  pick  half  a  pound  of  Malaga  raisins, 
half  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  chop  up  three  ounces  of  citron,  cut  three 
ounces  of  candied  orange  peel  into  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  peel  and  chop  finely  two 
pounds  of  apples.  Have  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  grated  nutmeg,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  allspice  and  ground  ginger,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  powdered  coriander  seeds,  one  pint  of  cider,  one  gill  of  rum,  quarter  of  a  gill  of  brandy 
and  the  peels  and  juice  of  two  lemons.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  and  put  them  into  a 
stone  crock  leaving  it  in  a  cool  place  for  at  least  fifteen  days  before  using. 

(118).  TO  TURN,  CHANNEL  AND  FLUTE  MUSHROOMS  (Pour  Tourner  et  Canneler  les 

Champignons). 

Choose  the  freshest  mushrooms  and  those  of  equal  size,  cut  off  the  stems,  wipe  well  the  heads, 
and  take  them  one  by  one  in  the  left  hand,  the  hollow  side  underneath,  then  with  the  tip  of  a 
small  pointed  knife  cut  away  the  peel  in  regular  rings  without  destroying  the  mushroom,  and  turn 
from  right  to  left  pressing  all  the  time  against  the  tip  of  the  small  knife;  this  must  be  done  quickly 
and  let  us  observe  that  it  is  not  on  the  first  trial  that  a  mushroom  can  be  properly  turned,  it  takes 
practice  to  accomplish  this  properly.  As  quickly  as  each  one  is  done,  throw  it  into  a  saucepan 
containing  cold,  acidulated  water,  just  sufficient  to  cover,  then  drain  off  the  water,  and  cook  the 
mushrooms  for  seven  or  eight  minutes  with  the  lid  on,  adding  salt,  butter  and  lemon  juice,  to 
keep  them  as  white  as  possible.  As  for  fluting  mushrooms,  this  art  is  only  learned  after  long 


200  THE    EPICUREAN. 

experience.  Mushroom  fluting  has  become  almost  a  profession,  and  the  difficulties  to  be  overcome 
can  be  better  understood  on  examining  those  pretty  mushroom  heads  so  delicately  carved,  we 
see  displayed  by  all  preserve  manufacturers. 

(119),  TO  STONE  OLIVES  (Pour  Enucle~er  les  Olives), 
If  the  olives  are  plump,  large  and  contain  small  stones,  these  can  be 
removed  with  a  machine  made  for  the  purpose  (Fig.  63)  or  with  a  tube 
from  a  column  box,  but  generally  the  meat  is  cut  off  in  spirals  around 
the  stone  by  means  of  a  small  knife.  After  the  stone  is  removed,  the  olives 
resume  their  former  shape,  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  water,  and 
take  them  out  again  at  once;  they  must  be  blanched  without  boiling. 

(120).  PANADA  CREAM  FRANGIPANE  (Panade  Oreme  Frangipane). 

Boil  four  gills  of  cream;  put  into  another  saucepan,  four  eggs,  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  flour  and  some  salt;  mix  and  dilute  with  the  cream, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon,  bearing  on  the  bottom  of  the 
saucepan,  and  when  thickened  and  well  worked  remove  it  from  the  fire 
at  the  first  boil  and  then  set  it  away  to  cool  with  a  buttered  paper  over  it. 

(121),  PANADA  OF  FLOUR  AND  MILK,  BREAD-CRUMBS,  AND  PATE  A  FlG  63 

OHOUX  (Panade  de  Farine  et  de  Lait,  Mie  de  Pain  et  Pate  a  Choux). 

Flour  and  Milk. — Put  in  a  saucepan  half  pound  of  flour,  also  four  eggs  and  work  well 
together  adding  some  salt,  and  dilute  with  six  to  eight  gills  of  milk;  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  remove 
at  the  first  boil,  pour  it  into  a  bowl,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  let  get  cold. 

Bread-crumbs.  — Soak  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  in  a  pint  of  water,  squeeze  out  all  the 
liquid  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt  and  three  gills  of  milk;  thicken  it  on  the  fire 
without  ceasing  to  beat,  and  stir  it  up  with  a  spoon  until  it  detaches  itself  from  the  pan,  then  set 
it  in  a  bowl,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  put  away  to  cool. 

Pate  a  Choux. — Put  one  pint  of  water  or  broth  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  set  it 
on  the  fire,  remove  it  aside  at  the  first  boil,  and  incorporate  into  it  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sifted  flour,  mix  well  and  dry  on  a  slow  fire  till  the  paste  detaches  itself  from  the  saucepan  and  let 
cool  slightly,  then  stir  into  it  gradually  two  whole  eggs  and  four  yolks,  set  it  away  in  a  cool  place 
with  a  buttered  paper  over,  for  further  use. 

(122).  WHEAT  AND  RICE  FLOUR  PANADA  (Panade  de  Farine  de  Gruau  et  de  Biz). 

Wheat  Flour. — Boil  half  a  pint  of  broth  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  remove  it  to  the  side  of 
the  fire,  and  add  to  it  four  or  five  ounces  of  flour,  or  as  much  as  it  can  absorb,  stir  the  paste 
quickly,  return  it  to  a  slow  fire  to  dry,  do  not  cease  stirring  until  it  detaches  from  the  saucepan. 
Pour  it  into  a  bowl,  cover  with  a  round  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 

Rice  Flour. — Have  one  pint  of  white  broth  or  milk  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter;  boil  together 
and  add  sufficient  rice  flour  to  form  a  paste,  let  it  dry,  then  set  it  away  with  a  buttered  paper 
cover  to  get  cool. 

(123),  PARSLEY  BOUQUET,  IN  BRANCHES,  FRIED  OR  CHOPPED  (Persil  en  Bouquet,  en  Branches, 

Frit  ou  Hache'). 

Plain  Bouquet  or  Bunch  of  Parsley. — Take  about  one  ounce  of  parsley  branches,  including 
the  leaves,  wash  them  nicely  and  fold  them  in  such  a  manner  that  they  form  a  small  bundle  or 
fagot,  to  be  tied  with  a  piece  of  string. 

The  Garnished  Bouquet  of  Parsley. — Make  it  exactly  the  same  as  the  plain  bouquet  the  only 
difference  being  that  it  envelopes  various  aromatics,  such  as  thyme,  bayleaf,  clove  of  garlic,  basil, 
marjoram,  chives,  green  celery,  etc.  When  we  speak  of  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  without  any 
specification,  we  mean  garnished  with  a  bayleaf  and  a  small  twig  of  thyme. 

Parsley  in  Branches  for  garnishing  should  be  taken  from  well  washed,  very  green  parsley, 
from  which  the  coarser  stalks  have  been  removed;  keep  it  in  fresh  water  and  use  when  needed, 
draining  it  first:  for  garnishing  fish,  boiled  beef,  etc. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  201 

Fried  Parsley  is  used  as  an  accessory  to  fried  dishes;  it  is  not  a  garnishing,  but  simply  a  dec- 
oration; detach  some  leaves  from  some  very  green  parsley,  wash  them  in  cold  water,  drain, 
press  them  in  the  hand  or  in  a  cloth  to  extract  all  the  water,  and  when  dry,  lay  them  in  a  wire 
basket  to  plunge  into  boiling  fat;  drain  as  soon  as  they  stiffen. 

Chopped  Parsley. — Choose  very  green  parsley,  wash,  drain  and  press  it  so  as  to  extract  all 
the  water,  then  cut  it  up  as  finely  as  possible,  afterward  chopping  it  well;  wash  it  again,  drain  and 
squeeze  it  thoroughly  to  remove  all  the  water;  lay  It  on  a  cloth  sieve  and  leave  it  in  a  cool  place 
till  needed. 

(124).  ALMOND  PASTE  IOE  FANCY  OAKES  (Pate  d'Amandes  a  Petits  Pours), 

Take  one  pound  of  peeled  and  well  dried  almonds;  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  five  whites 
of  eggs.  Pound  the  almonds  and  the  sugar,  either  in  a  machine  or  mortar,  and  when  well  reduced 
to  a  powder,  pass  it  forcibly  through  a  twelve  mesh  sieve  (Fig.  96);  return  it  to  the  mortar,  and 
mix  in  with  the  almonds  the  five  egg-whites  little  by  little,  so  as  to  make  a  paste,  which  can  be  now 
beaten  and  worked  until  a  good  body  is  obtained,  having  it  as  fine  as  possible. 

(125).  ALMOND  PASTE  WITH  COOKED  SUGAE  AND  PILBEET  PASTE  (Pate  d'Amandes  et  Pate 

d'Avelines  au  Sucre  Ouit), 

Almond  Paste. — Shell  and  skin  one  pound  of  almonds;  pound  them  with  half  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a  little  water  to  make  into  a  very  fine  paste,  the  same  consistency  as  a  maca- 
roon paste.  Cook  three  pounds  of  sugar  to  small  crack,  and  as  soon  as  ready  pour  it  in  small 
strings  on  to  the  paste,  stirring  constantly  with  a  spatula  and  leave  stand  till  cold.  When  this 
paste  is  thoroughly  cooled  off,  return  it  to  the  mortar  and  pound  it  once  more  with  liquors  or 
vanilla  syrup,  to  have  it  obtain  a  body  and  make  it  into  a  fine  paste,  then  put  it  in  a  stone  jar  and 
leave  it  in  a  cool  place. 

Filbert  Paste  with  Cooked  Sugar. — Have  one  pound  of  shelled  filberts  pounded  to  a  pulp 
with  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  gill  of  water;  lay  this  paste  in  a  basin.  Cook  in  a  copper 
pan  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar  to  small  crack,  pour  it  slowly  over  the  paste  mixing  it  so  that 
it  mingles  in  well,  ^i^n  leave  to  cool  and  pound  again,  stirring  in  half  a  gill  of  liquor,  either 
kirsch,  maraschino  or  any  other.  Color  the  paste  green  or  pink  according  to  taste. 

(126).  ALMOND  PASTE  WITH  EGG-YOLKS    (Pate  d'amandes  aux  jaunes  d'ceufs), 
Have  one  pound  of  almonds,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  eight  egg- yolks;  pound  or  mash  the 
almonds  in  a  machine  with  the  sugar  so  as  to  reduce  them  to  a  fine  powder,  then  strain  through  a 
twelve  mesh  sieve  (Fig.  96),  put  them  into  the  mortar,  and  mix  in  well  the  yolks  adding  them  little 
by  little;  pound  all  up  together  so  as  to  obtain  a  very  fine  paste,  having  it  quite  thick. 

(127).  ALMOND  PASTE  WITH  GUM  TEAGACANTH  (Pate  d'Amandes  a  la  Gomme  Adragante). 
Put  three  ounces  of  gum  tragacanth  to  steep  in  two  gills  of  water  for  twenty-four  hours,  then 
strain  forcibly  through  a  piece  of  linen.  Pour  this  gum  on  a  marble  slab  and  work  with  the  hand 
to  have  it  acquire  a  body,  incorporating  in  slowly  two  pounds  of  icing  sugar,  then  add  one  pound 
of  pounded  almonds  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  strained  through  a  sieve;  beat  the  paste  well  and 
pour  it  into  a  vessel  or  stone  pot;  closing  hermetically;  keep  in  a  very  cool  place  to  use  when 
needed.  This  paste  may  be  colored  red,  green,  orange  or  any  other  color. 

(128).  ALMOND  PASTE  WITH  PISTACHIOS  (Pate  d'Amandes  aux  Pistaches). 
Have  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  almonds,  half  a  pound  of  pistachio  nuts,  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  sugar,  two  tablespoon fuls  of  orange  flower-water  and  five  egg-whites.  Peel  the  almonds 
and  pistachio  nuts;  dry  and  pound  them  with  the  sugar,  egg-whites  and  orange  flower-water  till 
they  become  a  fine  paste,  then  add  to  it  a  little  vegetable  green,  so  as  to  give  it  a  soft,  green 
color. 

(129).  BABA  PASTE  (Pate  a  Eaba). 

Sift  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  divide  it  in  four  even  parts  and  use  one  of  these  to  make  the 
leaven  by  forming  it  in  a  circle  and  placing  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  yeast  in  the  center,  dilut- 
ing with  a  little  warm  milk  to  obtain  a  soft  paste;  roll  this  into  a  ball,  cut  it  crosswise  on  the  top 


203  THE    EPICUREAN. 

with  two  cuts  of  the  knife  and  lay  it  in  a  floured  vessel;  cover  with  a  cloth  and  leave  to  rise  in  a 
mild  temperature  to  double  its  size.  Pile  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  hillock,  make  a  hole  in 
the  center  to  form  a  hollow  and  in  it  lay  an  ounce  of  sugar,  a  spare  half  ounce  of  salt  (according 
to  the  saltness  of  the  butter),  six  ounces  of  butter  and  six  eggs.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well 
together  and  work  the  flour  in  slowly,  then  begin  to  knead  the  paste  so  that  it  becomes  smooth  and 
acquires  a  body  slowly  adding  three  more  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  butter;  continue  to  knead  until 
again  quite  smooth  with  plenty  of  body,  then  mix  in  the  leaven,  wrapping  it  lightly  in  the  paste 
and  cutting  the  whole  in  every  direction  until  thoroughly  mingled  and  the  paste  is  finished,  then 
add  to  it  two  ounces  of  seeded  Malaga  raisins,  two  ounces  of  Sultana  or  Smyrna  currants  softened 
in  water,  two  ounces  of  cherries  cut  in  four  and  two  ounces  of  finely  cut  up  citron.  Lay  the  paste 
in  a  vessel,  cover  with  a  cloth  and  let  rise  to  a  third  more  than  its  size,  then  break  it  up  with  a 
spoon;  the  paste  is  now  ready  to  be  used. 

(130).  BKIOOHE  PASTE  (Pate  a  Brioche), 

Take  one  pound  of  flour,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  seven  to  eight  eggs,  half  an 
ounce  of  yeast,  two  pinches  of  salt,  four  pinches  of  sugar,  two  spoonfuls  of  brandy  and  some 
water.  Dissolve  the  yeast  in  half  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  and  with  this  liquid  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  the  flour,  make  a  rather  thick  paste,  put  it  into  a  small  saucepan  with  a  little  luke- 
warm water  at  the  bottom,  and  let  it  rise  in  a  slack  heater.  Sift  the  remainder  of  the  flour  on  the 
table,  form  a  hollow  and  put  in  the  center,  the  salt,  sugar,  brandy,  two  spoonfuls  of  water,  three 
of  the  eggs  and  the  butter;  mix  together  thoroughly  with  the  hand,  and  incorporate  gradually  the 
flour  so  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste,  then  beat  sharply  with  the  hands  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
adding  the  rest  of  the  eggs  one  at  the  time.  Beat  it  well  against  the  table  to  let  it  acquire  a  body; 
then  lay  out  the  paste  and  spread  the  yeast  over,  fold  it  up  to  enclose  the  yeast  and  break  it  into 
small  pieces  with  the  hands;  pile  up  the  broken  pieces,  cut  the  paste  once  more,  and  put  the 
pieces  as  quickly  as  they  are  cut  into  a  floured  vessel,  cover  it  and  set  it  to  rise  in  a  moderate 
temperature,  until  it  will  be  raised  to  twice  its  original  size;  this  will  take  at  least  six  hours.  Set 
the  paste  again  on  the  floured  table,  break  it  up  and  refold  it  several  times  with  the  hands,  return 
it  to  the  vessel,  cover  and  put  it  back  once  more  in  the  same  place  to  rise.  Break  the  paste  up 
again  three  hours  later,  put  it  back  into  the  vessel,  and  this  time  set  it  either  in  a  cool  place  or  on 
the  ice  to  become  firm.  It  should  now  be  left  at  least  three  hours  before  using. 

(131).  OOOKED  PASTE  FOE  FANCIFUL  BORDERS  (Pate  Ouite  pour  Bordures  de  Fantaisie), 

Boil  one  pint  of  water  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  a  grain  of  salt;  as  soon  as  the 
liquid  boils  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  incorporate  in  one  pound  of  flour  so  as  to  obtain  a  good 
paste,  then  replace  it  on  to  a  moderate  fire  and  stir  vigorously  until  it  detaches  from  the  bottom  of 
the  saucepan,  then  remove  it  entirely  and  pour  it  on  to  a  floured  table;  as  soon  as  it  cools  off 
slightly,  knead  it  with  the  hands,  adding  to  it  slowly  one  pound  more  flour;  by  this  time  the 
paste  should  be  perfectly  smooth;  after  it  has  obtained  a  consistency,  turn  it  the  same  as  puff 
paste  (No.  146),  giving  it  seven  or  eight  turns,  having  the  paste  remarkably  smooth;  it  must  be  used 
at  once. 

(132).  CREAM  GAZE  PASTE  (Pate  a  Ohou). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  pint  of  water,  a  grain  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  sugar  and  two  ounces  of 
butter;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  when  the  butter  floats,  remove  the  pan  from  off  the  range, 
and  incorporate  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  flour,  stir  vigorously  not  to  have  it  the  least 
lumpy,  and  put  it  back  on  to  a  slow  fire  to  dry  until  it  detaches  easily  from  the  bottom,  then  take 
it  off  once  more,  and  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  orange  flower-water;  four  or  five  minutes  later  stir 
in  four  or  five  eggs,  adding  them  one  at  the  time;  it  must  now  be  more  consistent  than  otherwise, 
and  if  a  little  of  it  should  be  dropped  from  the  spoon,  it  must  retain  its  shape  and  not  spread. 

(133).  DRESSING-  PASTE  (Pate  a  Dresser). 

Sift  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  arrange  it  in  a  circle  and  in  the  center  lay  half  an  ounce  of 
salt,  four  ounces  of  butter  and  a  gill  of  water;  mix  thoroughly,  working  the  flour  in  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible. When  the  oaste  bearins  to  attain  a  body,  knead  it  thoroughly  twice,  mold  it  round,  form, 
and  leave  in  a  cooi  mc*_ 


ELEMENTARY    METHO1JS.  203 

(134).  ENGLISH  PASTE  POK  BORDERS  (Pate  Anglaise  Pour  Bordures), 
One  pound  of  fecula,  one  pound  of  sugar,  six  egg-whites.    Lay  the  fecula  on  the  table,  forming 
a  hollow  in  the  center,  into  this  put  the  sugar,  a  little  tepid  water  and  six  egg-whites,  lightly 
whisked;  make  a  very  hard  paste,  set  it  in  a  cool  place  hermetically  closed  in  a  bag  for  about  two 
hours. 

(135).  FINE  FOUNDATION,  ORDINARY  FOUNDATION   OR  SHORT  AND  FLAWN  PASTES 

(Pate   a  Poncer,  Fine,  Ordinaire  on  Brisee  et  a  Flans), 

Fine  Foundation  Paste. — Have  one  pound  of  flour,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half 
a  pint  of  cold  water  and  half  an  ounce  of  salt.  Sift  the  flour  on  a  table,  bring  it  all  together  and 
make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  spreading  it  with  the  hand,  and  in  this  space  lay  the  butter,  divided 
into  small  bits,  half  of  the  water  and  the  salt;  make  a  dough  by  mixing  first  the  butter  with  the 
water,  then  drawing  the  flour  into  this  wet  part,  a  very  little  at  the  time,  so  as  to  obtain  a  paste 
neither  lumpy  nor  too  firm;  if  necessary,  add  the  rest  of  the  water,  a  very  little  at  the  time,  mass 
it  together,  and  knead  it  briskly  two  or  three  times.  To  knead  dough  is  to  put  it  in  front  of  one, 
and  push  it  little  by  little  with  the  palms  of  both  hands  and  pressing  it  hard  against  the  table  so 
as  to  get  it  smooth;  after  this  is  finished,  bring  it  together  again,  detach  carefully  all  the  bits 
adhering  to  the  table,  and  roll  it  into  a  ball  with  the  hands,  turning  it  in  the  left  hand.  Let 
the  paste  rest  in  the  ice-box  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  using  it. 

Ordinary  Foundation  or  Short  Paste  is  made  with  one  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
half  a  pint  of  water  and  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt.  Make  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  the  flour, 
put  into  this  the  butter,  salt  and  half  of  the  water;  work  well  the  paste,  adding  more  water,  knead 
it  properly,  then  roll  it  into  a  ball  on  a  floured  table;  cover  and  let  rest  for  one  hour. 

Flawn  Paste. — One  and  one-quarter  pounds  of  flour,  three-quai'ters  pound  of  butter,  a  little 
salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  or  four  egg-yolks;  make  the  paste  on  the  table,  adding 
enough  water  so  the  paste  will  not  be  too  firm;  knead,  bring  together  and  leave  to  rest,  being 
careful  to  cover  it. 

(136).  FROLLE  PASTE  OR  SWEET  (Pate  a  Frolle  ou  pate  Sucrle). 

Arrange  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table;  in  the  center  lay  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  chopped  very  fine,  a  pinch  of  salt,  one  whole  egg 
and  four  to  five  yolks.  Work  the  whole  well  together  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste,  kneading  it  twice; 
form  into  a  ball  and  put  aside  in  the  icebox  to  rest. 

(137).  FRYING  BATTERS  (Pates  a  Frire), 

No.  1. — Put  into  a  vessel,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and 
three  egg- yolks;  dilute  these  with  sufficient  water  at  once,  so  as  not  to  have  to  add  any  more,  and 
the  size  of  half  an  inch  ball  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  tepid  water;  mix  till  it  becomes 
smooth  and  flows  without  being  stringy;  it  should  well  cover  the  spoon.  Lay  a  cloth  over  the  vessel, 
and  keep  it  in  a  moderate  temperature.  At  the  last  moment  add  to  it  three  beaten  egg-whites. 

No.  2. — Place  in  a  vessel  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  diluted 
in  tepid  water,  and  then  add  a  piece  of  compressed  yeast  the  size  of  a  half  an  inch  ball,  dissolved  in 
a  little  water.  Set  the  batter  in  a  moderate  temperature,  and  when  it  begins  to  ferment,  add  a 
handful  of  flour,  salt,  oil  and  water.  The  batter  should  be  renewed  every  day  without  adding 
yeast;  the  fermentation  produced  by  the  batter  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  it  light,  and  avoid  the  use 
of  any  more  yeast. 

No.  3. — This  is  a  finer  preparation,  intended  for  sweet  dishes,  etc.  Take  half  a  pound  of  flour, 
dilute  it  with  tepid  water,  into  which  an  ounce  of  butter  has  been  melted,  also  salt;  make  a  soft, 
very  smooth  batter  and  when  it  has  cooled  off,  add  to  it  half  a  gill  of  brandy,  two  egg-yolks  and 
two  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 

No.  4. — This  is  frying  batter  with  baking  powder.  Put  five  ounces  of  flour  into  a  vessel,  dilut- 
ing it  with  two  gills  of  tepid  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  two  of  oil,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one 
egg-yolk.  When  ready  to  use,  add  a  small  coffeespoonful  of  baking-powder  and  one  egg-white, 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 


204  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(138),  MACAROON  PASTE  (Pate  a  Macarons), 

Made  with  one  pound  of  peeled  and  well  dried  almonds,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar  and  eight  egg-whites.  Pound  the  almonds  with  the 
sugar  and  part  of  the  whites,  so  as  to  obtain  a  not  too  fine  paste,  then  gradually  add  the  remainder 
of  the  whites;  work  the  paste  well  to  have  it  obtain  plenty  of  consistence. 

(139).  MARCHPANE  PASTE  WITH  ORANGE-FLOWER  WATER  (Pate  Massepain  a  1'eau  de  Fleur 

d'Or  anger). 

One  pound  of  almonds,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  orange  flower-water  and  the  juice  of 
one  lemon.  Peel  the  almonds,  wash  them  in  cold  water,  drain  on  a  cloth  and  pound  them  with 
the  orange  flower-water,  adding  the  sugar  and  the  lemon-juice;  obtain  a  very  fine  paste  and  put 
it  into  a  small  saucepan  to  dry  on  a  slow  fire,  turning  it  steadily  until  all  the  moisture  evaporates 
and  it  detaches  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  pan.  A  round  bottomed  saucepan  or  basin  is  far 
preferable  to  the  flat  ones,  which  are  in  general  use. 

(140).  PLAIN  MERINGUE  PREPARATION  AND  ITALIAN  MERINGUE  WITH  COOKED  SUGAR 
(Pate  &.  Meringue  Ordinaire  et  Pate  a  Meringue  Italienne  Avec  Sucre  Quit). 

The  preparation  for  meringues  is  composed  of  twelve  or  fifteen  egg-whites  for  each  pound  of 
powdered  sugar;  set  these  whites  in  a  basin  with  a  grain  of  salt  and  beat  up  with  a  whip,  very 
slowly  at  first,  but  increasing  the  velocity  of  the  movement  as  the  quantity  becomes  greater.  The 
beaten  whites  should  be  stiff  and  remarkably  smooth;  then  mix  in  the  sugar  a  little  at  a  time, 
using  a  wooden  spoon  for  the  purpose. 

Italian  Meringue  with  Cooked  Sugar. — Cook  one  pound  of  sugar  to  "ball"  (No.  171); 
incorporate  a  very  little  of  it  at  a  time  into  six  beaten  whites,  without  ceasing  to  stir;  when 
all  the  sugar  is  absorbed  work  it  for  two  minutes  longer  on  a  slow  fire  to  have  it  very  smooth. 

(141).  MILAN  PASTE  (Pate  a  Milan). 

Form  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  lay  in  it  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  three  eggs;  mix  well  and  knead  the  dough  twice,  then  put 
it  aside  to  rest  in  a  cool  place. 

(142).  NOODLE  PASTE,  NOODLE  PASTE  POR  BORDERS  AND  REPERE  PASTE  TOR  FASTENING 
(Pate  a  Nouilles,  Pate  a  Nouilles  pour  Bordures  et  k  Repere  pour  Coller). 

Noodle  Paste.  — Make  a  ring  on  the  table  with  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  in  the  center  lay  a  pinch 
of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  tepid  water  and  five  beaten  eggs;  mix  the  eggs  in  slowly  with  the  flour 
and  then  wrap  the  paste  in  a  cloth,  leave  it  to  rest  for  fifteen  minutes  and  afterward  knead  it  well 
to  have  it  smooth;  this  requires  some  time  to  do. 

Noodle  Paste  for  Borders. — The  same  preparation  as  for  the  above,  the  only  difference  being 
that  the  five  whole  eggs  are  replaced  by  ten  yolks.  This  paste  can  also  be  used  for  covering  dish 
bottoms. 

Paste  for  Fastening  on  Borders  (Repere). — This  is  simply  sifted  flour  diluted  with  beaten 
egg  and  passed  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  to  obtain  a  sufficiently  liquid  paste  that  can  be  pushed 
through  a  cornet.  It  should  be  consistent  enough  not  to  run. 

(143).  OFFICE  PASTE  (Pate  d'office). 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  and  in  this  lay  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  two  whole  eggs  and  four  yolks.  Mix  all  together  to  form  a  smooth  paste,  knead  it  twice, 
and  let  it  rest  in  a  cool  place  before  using  it. 

(144;,  PIE  PASTE  (COLD)  (Pate  a  PateO  (froid). 

This  is  prepared  with  melted  butter  as  follows:  Sift  a  pound  of  flour,  form  a  hollow  in  the 
center  and  in  it  lay  four  egg-yolks  and  the  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  dissolved  in  a  little  water. 
Melt  eight  ounces  of  butter,  pour  the  clear  part  slowly  into  the  hollow,  then  work  the  flour  gradu- 
ally into  it,  adding  the  necessary  water  and  knead  the  paste  at  once,  roll  it  into  a  ball  and  leave 
to  cool.  This  paste  is  far  mellower  than  when  made  with  cold  butter. 

Another  proportion  for  cold  pie  paste  is  to  have  one  pound  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter, 
four  eggs,  tepid  water  and  salt;  prepare  and  finish  as  above. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


205 


(145).  PASTES  TOE  HOT  PIES  (Pates  a  Pate's  Ohauds). 

Lay  in  a  circle  on  the  table  one  pound  of  sifted  flour;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  into 
this  put  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  eight  ounces  of  butter,  two  egg- yolks 
and  two  gills  of  water.  Mix  first  the  butter  with  the  eggs  and  water,  add  the  flour  working  it  in  a 
little  at  the  time,  also  pour  in  a  little  water  as  it  becomes  necessary,  being  careful  not  to  get  the 
paste  too  thin,  and  still  avoid  being  too  dry,  otherwise  it  will  not  hold  together  well;  knead  the 
dough  twice,  detach  it  from  the  table  and  form  it  into  a  ball  on  the  floured  table,  and  when  smooth, 
cover  and  let  it  rest. 

Another  recipe  is:  one  pound  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of  water,  four  egg- 
yolks,  and  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  dissolved  in  water;  to  be  prepared  the  same  as  the  above. 


(146).  PUFF  PASTE  AND  HALF  PUFF  PASTE  (Pate  Feuillet^e  et  demi  Feuillet6e). 

This  paste  is  actually  not  so  very  difficult  to  make,  only  it  requires  particular  attention. 
Weigh  one  pound  of  the  very  best  quality,   not  too  fresh,  but  well  dried  flour;  one  pound 

of  butter,  well  drained  and  cooled  on 
the  ice,  then  kneaded  in  a  cloth  to  make 
it  become  flexible.  Sift  the  flour  on  to 
the  table,  arrange  it  in  a  circle,  and 
put  into  this  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
glassful  of  water.  With  the  right  hand 
mix  gradually  the  liquid  with  the  flour, 


FIG  66. 


FiQ.  65. 

adding  more  water  when  necessary,  so  as  to  obtain 
a  smooth,  even  paste,  soft  in  preference  to  hard, 
and  of  a  consistency  neither  stringy  nor  ropy;  as 
soon  as  the  dough  is  made,  knead  it  well  for  two 
minutes,  detaching  all  the  small  particles  from  the 
table,  but  if  the  paste  be  well  made  it  should  adhere 
neither  to  the  table  nor  to  the  hand;  cover  it  with  a 
cloth  and  let  it  rest  for  twelve  minutes.  Dredge 
the  table  lightly  with  flour,  lay  the  paste  on  top,  and  roll  it  out  square  shaped,  roll  out  the  butter 
likewise,  lay  it  in  the  center  of  the  paste,  on  top,  then  bring  the  four  outer  edges  back  on  to  the 
butter  so  as  to  inclose  it  well  (Fig.  64);  take  a  pastry  rolling  pin,  apply  it  on  the  paste,  and  using 
the  two  hands  push  the  paste  and  butter  forward,  rolling  it  out  to  the  thickness  of  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  or  thereabout,  keeping  it  straight  on  both  sides  as  represented  in  the  following  design 
(Fig.  65).  Fold  this  band  into  three,  press  it  down  with  the  rolling  pin  to  compress  it,  the  accom- 
panying design  will  show  how  to  fold  it  (Fig  66).  The  paste  has  now  only  received  one  turn;  to 
fold  it  once  more,  give  it  a  half  turn  so  as  to  lengthen  it  to  the  same  thickuess,  but  in  a  contrary 
direction,  as  thin  as  before;  then  fold  the  paste  in  ihree,  cover  it  and  let  it  rest  for  ten  or  twelve 
minutes;  the  paste  will  now  have  received  two  turns;  then  give  it  two  turns  more,  exactly  the 


206  THE    EPICUREAN. 

same  as  the  others,  and  let  it  rest  each  time  for  ten  minutes.  Before  giving  the  last  two  necessary 
turns  to  fine  puff  paste,  it  must  have  already  had  six,  if  more  are  given  it  will  be  found  detrimental 
to  its  delicacy. 

One  special  obstacle  to  be  absolutely  avoided  during  the  operation  is  not  to  let  any  butter  what- 
ever escape  from  the  folds  of  the  paste,  which  might  easily  occur  if  the  paste  happens  to  be  too 
soft,  if  rolled  out  too  thin,  if  not  rolled  out  regularly  in  smooth  layers,  and  if  it  is  thicker  on  one 
side  than  the  other.  In  summer  it  is  very  difficult  to  obtain  good  puff  paste  without  the  use  of 
ice  or  at  least  without  a  cold  cellar;  in  any  way  this  inconvenience  can  be  obviated  by  sub- 
stituting good  beef  kidney  suet  for  butter.  This  fat  must  first  be  skinned,  then  soaked  in  cold 
water,  well  drained,  and  pounded  in  a  mortar,  so  as  to  convert  it  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  then 
made  supple  by  working  it  with  the  hands  for  a  few  minutes  while  wrapped  in  a  cloth.  If  the 
paste  should  be  made  in  moist,  summer  weather  it  must  be  laid  on  a  cold  baking  sheet  dredged 
with  flour,  and  put  aside  in  the  ice  box. 

For  Half  Puff  Paste. — The  parings  from  puff  paste  make  an  excellent  half  paste.  If  this 
paste  should  have  to  be  made,  prepare  a  dough  of  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  for  one 
pound  of  flour,  operating  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  puff  paste,  but  giving  it  seven  or  eight  turns 
instead  of  six. 

(147).  KAVIOLE  PASTE  (Pate  a  Kaviole). 

Lay  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  on  the  table,  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  in  it  place  one  ounce 
of  salt,  four  eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  tepid  water. 

Another  proportion  is  one  pound  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  salt,  two  eggs,  one  ounce  of  butter, 
two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan  and  a  little  tepid  water.  The  paste  should  be  soft, 
yet  not  too  firm,  knead  it  well  to  have  it  smooth,  lay  it  on  a  board,  cover  with  a  cloth  and  let  it 
rest  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour,  then  roll  out  and  finish  making  the  ravioles. 

(148).  SAVAKIN  PASTE  (Pate  a  Savarin). 

One  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  eight  eggs,  six 
yolks,  half  an  ounce  of  yeast,  half  a  gill  of  raw  cream,  and  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Sift  some  of  the  flour  into  a  warm  vessel,  and  make  a  soft  leaven  with  a  quarter  of  the  flour 
and  the  yeast,  dilute  it  with  tepid  water,  and  cover  it  with  some  more  of  the  flour,  then  leave  it  to 
rise  in  a  warm  temperature.  When  the  leaven  has  risen  to  half  its  original  size,  break  up  the 
dough  with  the  hands,  and  work  into  it  gradually,  and  one  by  one  the  eggs  and  the  remainder  of 
the  flour,  then  knead  the  dough  vigorously  for  ten  minutes  to  give  it  a  body,  add  to  it  slowly  the 
melted  butter,  afterward  the  sugar  and  salt,  and  lastly  the  raw  cream;  the  zest  of  lemon  chopped 
or  grated  may  be  added  if  desired. 

(149).  TAET  PASTE  (Pate  a  Tarte). 

Make  a  paste  on  the  table  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
arrowroot  or  fecula,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  three  egg-yolks,  two  gills  of  cold  water  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  adding  a  little  salt.  When  the  paste  is  smooth,  wrap  it  up  in  a  cloth,  and 
leave  it  to  rest  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

(150).  TIMBALE  PASTE  (Pate  k  Timbale). 

Mix  one  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  four  or  five  egg-yolks,  one  grain 
of  salt,  and  one  gill  of  water.  Form  a  paste,  reserving  a  little  of  the  water.  Knead  it  well,  then  add 
slowly  the  rest  of  the  water,  roll  it  out,  and  set  it  aside  to  rest  under  a  cover. 

(151).  SMALL  PUFF  PATTIES  (Petits  Pate's  Feuillet^s). 

Make  a  puff  paste  the  same  as  for  puff  paste  (No.  146),  giving  it  six  turns,  roll  out  the  paste  to 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  let  it  rest  awhile,  then  from  it  cut  about  fifteen  round 


FIG.  67. 


pieces,  using  a  smooth  pastry  cutter  one  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches  in  diameter;  collect 
iho  parings  together  at  once,  roll  them  out  with  the  rolling  pin  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick, 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


207 


and  cut  the  same  quantity  of  round  pieces  with  the  same  cutter,  turn  them  over  on  to  a  wet  bak- 
ing sheet  in  straight  rows,  a  small  distance  apart,  and  lay  on  each  one,  a  one  to  one  and  a  quarter 
inch  ball  of  veal  Godiveau  forcemeat,  or  one  of  fish,  chicken,  game,  with  or  without  chives. 
Moisten  the  paste  around  the  garnishing,  cover  each  one  with  the  pieces  that  were  cut  first,  pressing 
them  down  to  make  the  two  layers  of  paste  adhere  together  all  around  the  garnishing;  flatten  the 
paste  with  the  back  of  a  small  one  and  a  half  inch  pastry  cutter,  egg  the  tops  using  a  soft  brush, 
and  cook  these  small  patties  in  a  well  heated  oven. 

(152).  TO  POACH  QUENELLES,  SMALL  TIMBALES  AND  MOUSSELINES  (Pour  Pocher  les 
Quenelles  les  Petites  Timbales  et  les  Mousselines). 

Quenelles. — Quenelles  are  poached  by  pouring  hot  (nearly  boiling)  water  into  a  sautoire  by 
the  side  of  the  quenelles,  set  the  sautoire  on  the  fire  to  bring  the  liquid  to  a  boiling  point,  and  at 
the  first  boil,  cover  the  sautoire,  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range  so  that  the  water  only  quivers, 
and  take  out  the  quenelles  with  a  skimmer  as  soon  as  they  are  firm.  The  length  of  time  to  poach 
quenelles  depends  upon  their  size;  either  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Dry  them  on  a  cloth  before 
dressing. 

Small  Timbales. — Kange  the  timbales  in  a  sautoire;  fifteen  minutes  before  serving,  fill  it  to 
half  the  height  of  the  molds  with  boiling  water,  and  set  the  sautoire  on  the  fire;  when  the  water 
is  ready  to  boil,  remove  and  place  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes;  after  a  lapse  of  ten 
minutes  touch  the  forcemeat  in  the  center,  and  if  firm,  take  them  out,  let  stand  for  a  little 
and  invert  the  molds  into  a  cloth  to  drain  off  all  the  liquid.  Unmold. 

Mousselines. — Put  these  into  a  flat  sautoire  furnished  with  a  perforated  grater  having  the  holes 
at  regular  spaces  apart  so  that  each  one  can  receive  a  mold.  The  molds  being  rounded  at  the 
bottom,  these  holes  are  to  keep  them  standing  upright.  Pour  boiling  water  into  the  saucepan 
nearly  sufficient  to  cover  the  height  of  the  molds  and  stand  it  on  the  fire;  when  the  water 
boils,  remove  and  push  it  gently  into  a  slack  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  sufficient  time 
to  poach  them  slowly;  they  will  be  found  done  when  touched  in  the  center,  they  resist  to  the 
pressure  of  the  finger,  then  take  them  from  the  water,  stand  them  on  one  side  to  drain  and  un- 
mold.  If  the  oven  be  too  hot  the  timbales  rise,  which  must  be  avoided  otherwise  they  lose 
their  quality. 

(153).  TO  PEESS   MEATS,  GALANTINES,  BKEASTS,  SWEETBKEADS,  ETC.  (Pour  Presser  les 

Viandes,  Galantines,  Poitrines,  Eis  de  veau,  etc.). 

For  Meat  Juices. — Have   a  press   as   shown   in  Fig.   70.     The  meats  intended   for   pressing 
should  be  clone   rare,   but    cooked    through,    so    that   all  the   juice    can  be  extracted.     There 
is  also  a  press   for  pressing   galantines,   sweetbreads,    etc.     This   one 
is  made  as  represented  in  Fig.  71;   besides,  there  should  be  a  double 
series  of  strips  of  wood,    five  inches  across;  the  thinnest  being  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  the  thickest  are  five  inches;  these  are  for  the 
purpose  of  receiving  the  movable  shelf  belonging  to  the  press  so  that 
all  the  pressed  articles  will  be  even  throughout.     For  galantines  it  is  also 

necessai'y  to   have  a  dozen  tinned,    sheet-iron 

sheets,  a  sixteenth    of    an   inch    thick,    twelve 

inches  long  and  six  inches  wide.     These  sheets 

are  to  be  used  when  there  are  several  galantines 

to  equalize  their  thickness  so  that  they  are  all 

pressed  uniformly.      The  size  of  the  press  is 

thirty-eight    inches    high,    twenty-eight    inches 

wide  and  sixteen  inches  deep;  the  screw  to  be 

twenty-six  inches  long,  and  the  wheel  one  foot 

in  diameter.     Press  to  the  required  thickness  by 

arranging  the    strips    either    higher  or  lower; 
for  galantines  they  are  put  an  inch  lower  than  the  galantine  itself;  turn  the  screw  slowly  until  the 
movable  shelf  rests  on  the  two  strips  which  are  the  thickness  required. 

Sweetbreads  are  pressed  either  in  round  or  oval  molds,  proportionate  to  the  size  of  the 
sweetbreads;  place  these  molds,  one  beside  the  other,  on  a  shelf  of  the  same  dimension  as  the 
movable  one  and  fill  each  one  with  a  piece  of  unlarded,  braised  sweetbread  just  sufficiently  large 
«nough  to  fill  up  the  mold  when  pressed. 


FIG.  71. 


208 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


For  Breast  of  Mutton  or  Lamb,  Braised  and  Cooked. — Range  them  on  a  board  and  press  with 
a  half  inch  thick  strip  on  both  sides  to  receive  the  movable  shelf  the  same  as  the  sweetbreads. 

Beef  Tongues  are  placed  in  a  mold  the  shape  of  the  tongue,  it  being  two  inches  thick,  eight 
and  a  half  inches  long  and  three  and  a  half  inches  on  its  widest  part.  Molds  containing  two, 
four,  or  six  tongues  can  be  had. 

Boned  Hams  are  pressed  in  oval  timbale  molds. 

Corned  Beef  in  square  molds,  two  and  a  half  inches  deep. 

(154).  TO  PREPARE  DECORATED  QUENELLES,  MOLDED  QUENELLES  AND  POCKET 

QUENELLES  (Pour  PrSparer  les  Quenelles  Decor6es,  Mouses  et  a  la  Poche), 

Large  decorated  quenelles  are  used  as  a  garnishing  or  to  complete  releve  garnishings;  they 

can  be  prepared  with  chicken,  game  or  fish  forcemeat.     These  quenelles  are  made  on  pieces  of 

buttered  white  paper,  shaping  them  to  any  desired  form  with  a  small  knife  while  smoothing  the 

surfaces  neatly.     Large  quenelles  are  usually  decorated  with  truffles  or  red   beef  tongue,  the 


FIG.  72.  FIG.  73.  FIG.  74. 

former  being  preferable.  The  truffle  decoration  can  be  applied  on  to  the  quenelles  either  before  or 
after  poaching;  in  the  first  case  the  decorations  are  slightly  incrusted  into  the  forcemeat  after 
wetting  them  with  egg-white;  the  quenelles  are  then  plunged  into  boiling  water  with  the  paper 
they  have  been  molded  on.  If  the  quenelles  are  to  be  decorated  after  poaching  then  the  pieces 
must  be  simply  applied  on,  but  first  cover,  or,  better  still,  dampen  one  side  with  soft  forcemeat  so 
that  they  can  adhere.  Quenelles  are  poached  in  salted  water  without  allowing  it  to  boil. 

Molded. — Butter  some  plain,    oval-shaped,   quenelle  molds,   using  slightly    melted  butter; 
decorate  the  bottom  of  the  mold  the  same  as  shown  in  the  design.     If  required  to  be  stuffed,  then 


FIG.  75.  FIG.  76.  FIG.  76  A. 

place  a  layer  of  forcemeat  on  the  decoration  and  over  this  any  salpicon  whatever  (see  salpicons, 
No.  165),  and  finish  to  fill  the  mold;  smooth  the  tops,  stand  the  molds  on  a  baking  pan,  pour 
enough  boiling  water  in  to  fill  the  pan  to  half  the  height  of  the  molds  and  then  poach  in  a  slack 
oven.  These  molds  are  simply  buttered,  filled  with  forcemeat,  smoothed  on  top  and  poached. 

Pocket  Quenelles. — Mix  together  half  as  much  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  as  cream  force- 
meat (No.  75),  incorporating  the  latter  gradually  into  the  former,  pass  it  all  once  more  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  fill  a  strong  paper  cornet  with  a  third  part  of  this  forcemeat,  push  small  quarter 
inch  quenelles  the  shape  of  beads  on  to  a  buttered  sheet,  and  then  poach  them  in  boiling,  salted 


FIG. 


FIG.  78. 


FIG.  79. 


water.  Color  half  of  the  remaining  forcemeat  with  a  little  vegetal  carmine,  of  a  fine,  light 
red  color,  and  put  this  also  into  a  paper  cornet,  and  force  them  through  on  to  another  but- 
tered sheet,  letting  these  quenelles  be  channeled  shaped,  poach  in  salted,  boiling  water.  Color  the 
remainder  of  the  forcemeat  with  spinach  green  or  vegetal  green  to  obtain  a  light  pistachio  color, 
and  set  them  into  a  paper  cornet  also,  and  with  it  form  oval  shaped  quenelles  on  to  a  buttered 
sheet,  pour  over  some  boiling,  salted  water,  and  let  thern  poach  for  a  few  minutes.  These  quenelles 
are  used  as  garnishings  for  soups,  and  for  a  variety  of  entrees. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


209 


(155).  TO  MOLD  QUENELLES  WITH  A  SPOON,  EITHER  PLAIN,  PILLED  OE  ROLLED  IN 
FLOUR  (Pour  Mouler  les  Quenelles  a  la  Cuillere,  Simples,  Fourre'es  ou  Routes  a  la  Farine). 
Select  two  common,  large  and  very  thin  iron  soup  spoons,  put  one  of  these  into  a  small  panful 
of  hot  water,  and  taking  the  other  in  the  left  hand  fill  the  hollow  center  with  the  forcemeat, 
•smooth  the  top  with  the  blade  of  a  small  knife  dipped  in  tepid  water,  arranging  it  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  there  is  as  much  forcemeat  above  as  below  the  level  of  the  spoon,  then  remove  the  quenelles 
with  the  hot  spoon  sliding  it  beneath  the  forcemeat,  then  slip  it  at  once  on  to  the  bottom  of  a 
buttered  sauteing  pan,  without  turning  it  over,  so  that  the  same  side  is  on  top.  If  the  quenelles 
are  wanted  filled,  prepare  a  montglas  composed  of  mushrooms,  tongue,  truffles  or  foies-gras;  thicken 
it  with  some  very  compact  reduced,  good  brown  sauce,  so  that  when  cold  the  preparation  can  be 
divided  into  small  parts,  and  rolled  into  olive  shaped  pieces  in  the  hand;  in  this  case,  when  the 


spoon  is  filled  with  forcemeat,  make  a  small  hole  with  the  finger  on  the  surface  so  as  to  insert  the 
montglas,  salpicon  or  puree,  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat,  being  careful  that  it  is  the  same 
thickness  all  over  the  filling,  smooth  it  down  nicely,  and  remove  the  quenelle  with  the  hot  spoon 
to  slip  it  on  to  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  sauteing  pan  without  turning  it  over.  Generally 
for  one  pound  it  will  take  eight  large  soup-spoonfuls,  or  sixteen  dessert-spoons,  or  thirty-two 
tea-spoons,  or  sixty-four  coffee-spoons.  Poach  these  quenelles  by  pouring  hot  water  into  the 
sauteing  pan  beside  the  quenelles,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  fire  to  bring  it  to  boiling  point;  at  the 
first  boil,  move  it  on  one  side,  so  that  the  water  only  simmers  for  six  to  fourteen  minutes,  accord- 
ing to  their  size.  Lift  the  quenelles  with  a  skimmer,  and  drain  them  on  a  cloth  before  using 
them. 


FIG.  81. 


FIG.  82. 


FIG.  83. 


FIG.  84. 


To  Prepare  Quenelles  Rolled  in  Flour. — Divide  some  game,  chicken  or  fish  forcemeat  into 
pieces;  roll  each  one  on  a  flour  dredged  table  into  strings  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  cut 
these  into  pieces  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long;  roll  them  on  the  table  to  give  each  one  the  shape 
of  an  olive  or  small  egg  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  one  inch  in  length.  Larger  ones  can  be 
made  of  Godiveau  an  inch  and  three-quarters  long  by  five-eighths  in  thickness.  Poach  the  quenelles 
in  boiling  water  with  salt  added  to  it.  The  Godiveau  quenelles  are  poached  by  ranging  them  at 
equal  distances  on  a  baking  tin  covered  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  then  placing  it  in  a  very  slack 
oven. 

(156).  TO  RAISE,  PARE  AND  POACH  BREASTS  OF  POULTRY  AND  GAME  (Pour  Lever,  Parer 

et  Pocher  les  Filets  de  Volaille  et  de  Gibier). 

Cut  off  the  pinions  from  a  clean,  singed  chicken,  split  the  breast  skin  from  one  end  to  the 
other  in  the  center,  open  it  so  as  to  disclose  the  flesh,  then  detach  the  breasts  with  a  small  knife 
following  the  breast-bone,  and  leaving  the  minion  fillets  adhering  to  them,  removing  them  later  if 
not  needed.  Take  these  breasts  one  by  one,  lay  them  the  smoothest  side  uppermost  on  a  table, 
press  them  down  with  the  left  hand  and  slip  the  blade  of  a  knife  between  the  flesh  and  the  skin, 
so  as  to  remove  the  latter  at  one  pull  without  breaking  it.  Beat  the  breasts  lightly  with  a  damp 
knife  handle,  trim  them  in  round  half  hearts  on  one  end,  and  pointed  on  the  other  ;  remove  the 
inside  nerve,  and  the  fine  skin  from  the  minion  fillet,  beat  these  lightly  and  lay  them  on  the 


210 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


inside  surface  of  the  breasts,  if  found  necessary  to  enlarge  them,  but  unless  the  breasts  are  very 
small,  they  are  not  added.  They  can  be  interlarded  either  with  slices  of  truffle  or  tongue, 
by  cutting  five  or  six  incisions  across  the  minion-fillet  and  garnishing  them  with  either  of  these. 
Proceed  exactly  in  the  same  manner  for  breasts  of  game. 

To  Poach. — Place  the  breasts  of  poultry  or  game  in  a  buttered  sauteing  pan;  turn  all  the  points 
toward  the  center  and  on  them,  place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  cover  and  set  the  pan 
in  a  slack  oven  leaving  it  in  long  enough  to  poach  according  to  their  size  and  quality. 

(157).  TO  CLEAN  CURRANTS,   MALAGA  AND  SMYRNA  EAISINS  (Pour  Nettoyer  les  Kaisins 

de  Oorinthe,  les  Kaisins  da  Malaga  et  de  Smyrne). 

Lay  the  currants  on  a  table  mixing  in  with  them  some  flour,  rub  well  together,  then  shake 
them  through  a  coarse  sieve,  (No.  95)  having  eight  meshes  so  that  the  small  currant  stalks 
pass  through;  wash  well  and  dry  them,  then  pick  them  over  to  free  them  of  all  the  gravel  stones 
which  are  generally  to  be  found  in  these  fruits,  as  well  as  the  large  stalks  adhering  to  them. 

Smyrna  (Sultana)  raisins  are  cleaned  the  same  as  currants;  abstain  from  washing  them.  Seed 
Malaga  raisins  and  pick  off  the  stalks. 

(158).  RAVIOLES  (Eavioles). 

Koll  out  some  raviole  paste  (No.  147),  very  thin  and  in  a  perfect  square;  lay  on  top  half  an 
inch  from  the  edge  and  one  inch  apart  some  chicken  raviole  forcemeat  balls  (No.  93),  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  after  the  entire  flat  is  covered,  moisten  it  lightly  by  passing  a  brush  around 
the  forcemeat  balls  and  then  place  another  flat  of  pa'ste  on  top,  it  to  be  the  same  thickness  as  the 


FIG.  85. 


FIG.  86. 


FIG.  87. 


under  one  and  about  four  inches  wider.  Press  on  to  this  upper  paste  between  the  balls  of  forcemeat 
with  a  ruler  and  the  whole  length  of  the  flat  and  then  across  so  that  every  one  of  the  balls  is  en- 
closed in  a  small  square;  cut  each  of  these  out  with  a  channeled  wheel  or  jagger  (Fig.  87).  The 
jaggers  are  used  for  cutting  lattice  work  bands  for  pies,  or  else  replace  it  by  a  round  channeled 
pastry  cutter.  Lay  the  cut  pieces  on  a  flour  dredged  saucepan  lid  and  then  drop  them  into  boiling 
water  to  poach  for  about  twelve  minutes. 

(159).  TO  SEDUCE  AND  STRAIN  SAUCES  THROUGH  A  TAMMY  (Pour  Require  les  Sauces  et  les 

Passer  k  1'Etamine). 


The  reason  sauces  are  reduced  is  to  give  them  the  delicacy  and  succulence  necessary  to  their 
finish,  by  incorporating  into  them  fumets,  stocks  and  the  required  condiments.     The  stocks  that 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  211 

are  to  be  added  to  the  sauces  in  order  to  reduce  them  should  be  as  concentrated  as  possible 
so  as  to  avoid  any  superfluous  labor.  In  order  to  reduce  a  strained,  despumated  sauce, 
pour  it  into  a  flat  saucepan  having  a  thick  bottom,  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  and  let  the  sauce  boil 
while  stirring  it  well  with  a  spatula,  and  pressing  it  down  in  a  way  that  the  sauce  will  fail  to 
adhere  to  the  bottom,  and  therefore  burn.  Mix  in  gradually  the  stock  needed  for  its  improvement, 
and  continue  to  boil  until  it  has  acquired  the  necessary  consistency  and  succulence,  then  take  it 
off,  and  strain  it  through  a  tammy. 

(160).  BICE  TOE  OBOUSTADES  AND  BICE  WITH  OEEAM  (Biz  Pour  Croustades  et  riz  a  la  Creme). 

Pick  well  four  pounds  of  Carolina  rice,  put  it  into  a  newly  tinned  saucepan  without  washing 
it,  adding  a  half  pound  piece  of  fresh  pork,  moisten  it  to  three  times  its  height  with  some  water: 
heat  the  liquid  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil,  remove  it  to  a  slower  one;  twenty  minutes 
after  when  the  liquid  is  nearly  all  absorbed,  cover  the  rice  with  a  heavy  buttered  paper,  close  the 
saucepan,  and  set  it  at  the  opening  of  a  slack  oven,  finish  cooking  the  rice,  drying  it  thoroughly, 
then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  oven,  take  out  the  piece  of  pork,  and  work  the  rice  while  still 
in  the  saucepan,  using  a  spatula  for  the  purpose,  then  pound  it  again  in  a  mortar  so  as  to  reduce  it 
to  a  smooth  paste.  Lay  this  rice  on  a  dampened  marble  slab,  or  a  thick  baking  sheet,  knead  it 
with  the  hands  so  that  it  becomes  smooth,  mold  it  round  shaped,  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan,  buttered 
over  with  a  brush,  or  else  a  mold  proportionate  to  the  size  needed  for  the  croustade.  Press  the 
rice  down  well,  cover  the  top  with  a  round  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  set  it  in  the  ice  box  for 
seven  or  eight  hours,  but  not  allowing  the  saucepan  or  mold  to  touch  the  ice.  Unmold  the  rice 
after  dipping  the  saucepan  in  hot  water,  cutting  it  out  with  a  knife. 

Rice  with  Cream. — Blanch  for  a  few  moments  half  a  pound  of  fine,  picked  and  washed  rice; 
drain  and  refresh,  then  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  and  moisten  it  with  one  quart  of  boiled 
milk  in  which  a  stick  of  vanilla  has  been  infused.  Let  the  liquid  come  again  to  a  boil,  cover  the 
saucepan,  and  finish  cooking  the  whole  very  slowly  for  forty  minutes.  When  the  rice  is  tender  and 
has  absorbed  all  the  liquid,  add  to  it  a  pinch  of  salt,  three  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  Sometimes  a  few  egg-yolks  are  added  to  this  rice, 
if  so,  they  must  be  put  in  before  any  other  of  the  ingredients,  while  the  rice  has  all  its  heat,  so 
that  the  eggs  can  cook  while  in  the  act  of  stirring  them. 

(161).  TO  PEEP  ABE  EISSOLES  (Pour  Preparer  les  Bissoles). 

Kissoles  are  prepared  in  two  different  ways,  the  first,  by  rolling  out  some  fine  paste  or 
clippings  of  puff  paste,  into  a  long,  thin  piece  from  ten  to  fourteen  inches  wide;  wet  the  bottom 
edges  of  this  paste,  then  lay  on  it  four  balls  of  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter  for  the  two 
and  three-quarter  inch  rissoles  made  of  rissole  preparation,  and  from  two  and  three-eighths  inches 
distance  apart  from  each  other,  and  two  inches  from  the  edges;  refold  the  paste  forward,  so  as  to 
cover  up  the  prepared  balls,  and  fasten  the  paste  down  to  six-eighths  of  an  inch  around  the  balls; 
press  on  the  two  layers  of  paste  to  adhere  them  together,  then 
cut  out  the  rissoles  half  circular  with  a  channeled  pastry-cutter 
either  two  and  one-quarter,  two  and  one-half  or  two  and  three- 
quarters  inches  in  diameter.  As  soon  as  the  rissoles  of  the  first 
FIG.  89.  row  are  cut?  iav  them  aside;  pare  the  edges  of  the  paste  and 

begin  the  operation  again;  reduce  the  height  of  the  cut  out  rissoles  by  pressing  them  down  with 
the  finger  without  misshaping  them.  These  rissoles  may  now  be  breaded  and  dipped  in  egg,  or  left 
white;  in  the  first  case,  lay  them  simply  on  a  tin  sheet  covered  with  a  white  paper  till  ready  to 
fry.  In  the  second,  place  them  at  some  distance  apart  on  a  floured  cloth  so  that  the  paste  cannot 
adhere  to  it.  To  prepare  rissoles  differently,  roll  out  a  thin  flat,  cut  it  into  small  round  pieces  with 
a  channeled  pastry-cutter  either  two  and  one-quarter,  two  and  one-half  or  two  and  three-quarters 
inches  in  diameter,  and  on  each  one  of  these,  lay  a  prepared  rissole  ball;  wet  the  paste  all  round, 
and  fold  the  piece  of  paste  over  the  ball  fastening  the  two  edges  together.  Press  the  tops  lightly 
with  the  fingers,  keeping  them  a  good  shape,  and  lay  the  unbreaded  ones  on  a  floured  cloth,  and 
the  breaded  ones  on  white  paper. 

il82).  TO  OUT  BOOTS  WITH  A  SPOON  AND  A  VEGETABLE  OUTTEE  (Maniere  de  Oouper  les 

Eacines  a  la  Cuillere  et  k  la  Machine). 

Peel  or  scrape  carrots,  peel  turnips,  celery  roots,  turnip-cabbage  or  kohl-rabi,  sweet  potatoes 
or  common  potatoes;  wash  and  keep  them  in  cold  water  until  needed;  all  of  these  vegetables 


212 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


including  peeled  truffles  can  be  cut  olive  shaped  or  in  rounds  large  or  small  according  to  require- 
ments (Fig.  91).  The  rounds  should  be  from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  one  inch  in  diameter;  the 
long  ovals  from  half  an  inch  to  one  and  a  quarter  inches.  The  oval  spoons  for  this  purpose 
may  be  either  plain  or  channeled.  When  cutting  vegetables  with  a  spoon  into  either  balls 
or  olives  dip  the  sharp  end  of  the  spoon  into  the  thickest  part  of  the  root  all  through  the  depth 
and  endeavor  to  remove  the  pieces  as  whole  and  perfect  as  possible. 


FIG.  91. 


Vegetable  Cutter. — (Tig.  92).  This  utensil  is  simple,  practical  and  useful.  It  is  used  for  cutting 
vegetables  and  roots  into  various  shapes  for  soups  or  garnishing;  having  them  pass  by  pressure 
through  the  deep  cutters  made  of  steel  and  movable  so  they  can  be  easily  changed  when  so 
desired.  To  proceed,  first  cut  the  roots  into  thin  slices,  all  of  equal  thickness;  place  one  of  these 
on  any  one  of  the  selected  cutters;  put  this  under  the  press  and  bear  heavily  on  it.  The  pieces 
will  fall  through;  pick  out  the  imperfect  ones;  the  others  are  ready  for  use. 

(163).  BLONDE  AND  BROWN  ROUX  (Eons  blond  et  bran), 

Roux  is  flour  fried  in  butter  and  allowed  to  attain  more  or  less  color;  it  is  used  for  thickening 
gravies,  soup  stocks  and  sauces;  there  are  two  kinds  of  roux,  the  blonde  and  the  brown;  the  blonde 
is  made  as  follows:  Put  into  a  saucepan  to  melt,  one  pound  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  to  it 
one  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  place  the  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire  to  let  it  cook  slowly  while  stir- 
ring until  it  becomes  of  a  light  blonde;  this  is  used  for  veloute.  For  the  brown,  leave  it  on  the  fire 
or  in  a  slack  oven  until  it  assumes  a  darker  color;  should  it  not  be  necessary  to  use  it  at  once, 
pour  it  into  a  vessel,  and  employ  it  as  needed,  but  when  required  for  immediate  use,  take  it  from 
the  fire,  leave  it  in  the  pan  and  let  it  lose  a  few  degrees  of  its  heat  before  moistening  it.  For 
a  veloute1,  dilute  it  with  a  white  veloute  stock,  and  a  brown  espagnole  stock  if  needed  for  brown; 
the  proportions  for  both  veloute  and  espagnole  being:  one  pound  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  one 
pound  of  flour  and  four  quarts  of  either  white  or  brown  stock. 


(164),  BUM  FLAVORED  WITH  VANILLA;  SPIRIT  OF  STRAWBERRIES,  RASPBERRIES  AND 
APRIOOTS  (Rhum  VanillS ;  Esprit  de  Praises,  Framboises  et  Abricots). 

Rum  flavored  with  Vanilla. — Put  twelve  vanilla  beans  cut  in  pieces  in  a  quart  bottle  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  twelve  hours  later  fill  up  the  bottle  with  good  rum  and  leave  it 
for  ten  days;  it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Spirit  of  Strawberries,  etc.—  Crush  thirty  pounds  of  strawberries  or  raspberries;  to  this  pulp 
add  three  quarts  of  spirits  of  wine,  put  into  an  earthen  crock,  cover  and  leave  to  infuse  for  fif- 
teen days.  Distill  the  fruits  in  an  alembic  in  a  bain-marie  and  continue  the  distillation  until  the 
liquor  reaches  twenty  degrees.  Spirit  of  apricots  is  made  the  same  way  only  taking  twenty  pounds 
of  fruit  instead  of  thirty  for  each  thr.ee  quarts  of  spirit.  The  fruits  are  pressed  through  a  sieve 
and  the  kernels  broken  and  crushed  in  a  mortar,  then  mixed  in  with  the  apricots. 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


213 


(165).  SALPIOON;  HOW  TO  PEEPAEE  (Salpicon;  Maniere  de  le  Preparer), 
Salpicons  are  prepared  with  cooked  and  cold  meats  and  fish,  red  beef  tongue,  sweetbreads  oi 

beef  palates;  they  are  also  made  of  chicken  or  game  fillets,  foies-gras,  also  with  truffles,  mushrooms. 

cepes,  and  besides  these,  oysters,  lobsters,  crawfish,  etc. 

The  characteristic  of  salpicon  is  that  it  is  cut  into  small  squares;  they  may  be  prepared  with 

one  kind  of  substance  alone,  but  are  generally  mixed,  for  example:  chickens,  with  red  beef  tongue, 

truffles  or  mushrooms;  game,  with  foies-gras  or  truffles,  and  fish,  with  mushrooms  and  truffles. 

Salpicons  are  always  thickened  with  a  sauce  corresponding  to  the  nature  of  the  meat,   and  in  all 

cases  it  must  be  succulent  and  condensed. 

(166).  TO  SCALD  (Echauder). 

In  an  analogous  sense,  scalding  means  to  dip,  to  plunge  in  boiling  water.  A  pig,  a  suckling 
pig,  calf's  head  and  feet  of  either  the  calf  or  sheep,  chicken's  legs  and  even  whole  poultry  is  scalded. 

To  scald  a  pig  is  to  detach  the  bristles  adhering  to  its  back  by  means  of  hot  water,  done  by  dip- 
ping it  once  or  twice  in  hot  water  to  facilitate  pulling  them  out  more  readily,  then  scrape  the 
surface  with  a  knife;  this  operation  must  be  performed  as  quickly  as  possible.  The  same  to  be 
done  for  calf's  feet  and  head,  also  for  sheep  and  lamb's  trotters.  Poultry  is  sometimes  scalded, 
but  this  system  of  treatment  should  be  completely  abandoned  and  the  feathers  picked  off  dry, 
this  being  far  superior  to  the  scalding  process;  for  by  scalding  poultry,  especially  young  chickens 
they  become  partially  cooked  and  the  skin  is  apt  to  tear  when  being  trussed;  they  also  contract  a 
bad  taste  and  decompose  quicker  than  those  that  are  dry  picked. 

(167),  SIEVE-CLOTH  OF  DIFFERENT  SIZE  MESHES  (Toile  a  Tamis  de  Difltates  Grosseurs). 

Fig.  S3  (four  mesh)  is  used  for  broken  and  coarsely  chopped  almonds;  Fig.  94  (six  mesh)  is  used 
for  Mocha  sugar,  finely  chopped  almonds  and  raisins;  Fig.  95  (eight  mesh)  is  used  for  bread 


FIG,  93. 


FIG.  95. 


*M  ••»••*••!*  d*  •«•*•- 


FIG.  96. 


FIG.  97. 


crumbs;  Fig.  96  (twelve  mesh)  is  used  for  powdered  macaroons,  purges  and  marmalades;  Fig.  97 
(sixteen  mesh)  is  used  for  sugar,  flour  and  purees;  Fig.  98  (twenty-eight  mesh)  is  used  for  icing 
sugar.  A  mesh  indicates  the  number  of  holes  to  each  linear  inch. 


(168).    SPICES,  AROMATIOS,  AND  SEASONINGS  FOR  COOKING  PURPOSES  (Epices, 

Aromates  et  Assaisonnements  pour  la  Cuisine). 

The  different  articles  employed  as  seasonings  in  kitchen  work  are  comprised  of  salt,  spices, 
aromatics,  butter,  fat,  vinegar,  oil  and  mustard.  Salt  is  without  exception  the  most  indispensable 
seasoning;  it  removes  the  insipid  taste  from  meats,  vegetables  and  all  other  eatables.  It  excites 
the  appetite  and  helps  digestion,  but  of  course  must  be  used  with  judgment,  for  too  much  is  apt 
to  make  it  unhealthy.  Coarse  salt  is  the  one  to  be  used  for  cooking  boiled  meats  and  vegetables. 
Finely  pulverized  white  salt  is  for  table  use  and  the  one  used  in  kitchens  for  seasoning  is  merely 
crushed  and  sifted  purified  salt.  Spices  are  of  different  kinds;  they  are  void  of  nutritious 


214  THE 

properties  and  are  ouly  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  taste  of  various  foods.  They  are  composed 
of  common  black  and  white  pepper,  cayenne  pepper;  then  come  the  weaker  spices  such  as  nutmeg, 
cinnamon,  cloves  and  coriander.  For  seasoning,  common  raw  pepper,  ground  only  when  ready  to 
use  is  both  agreeable  and  a  tonic,  but  as  much  cannot  be  said  for  pepper  cooked  in  stews,  sauces  or 
soups,  for  it  loses  its  aroma  while  cooking  and  therefore  only  the  acridity  remains.  Peppers  that  do 
not  deteroriate  while  cooking  are  paprika  (a  Hungarian  product),  and  red  pepper;  these  both  give  a 
most  agreeable  flavor  to  stews  and  sauces,  increasing  as  the  cooking  proceeds,  and  either  of  them 
are  agreeable  to  the  taste  and  a  tonic  without  producing  any  irritating  results. 

Aromatics. — Among  the  most  aromatic  plants  used  in  the  kitchen  must  be  mentioned  bay 
leaf,  marjoram,  chives,  sage,  thyme,  wild  thyme,  savory,  tarragon,  pimpernel,  chervil,  pepper-cress, 
parsley,  onion,  shallot,  garlic  and  horseradish  root.  Some  of  these  are  used  in  a  dry  state,  others 
in  a  fresh,  and  both  are  employed  in  numerous  preparations.  They  can  be  used  in  sautes,  braizes, 
in  sauces  and  even  in  soups.  The  action  of  these  aromatics  on  the  general  health  is  only  injurious 
when  indulged  in  injudiciously  or  in  too  large  quantities,  but  when  employed  with  a  certain 
reserve,  they  are  both  healthy,  stimulating  and  agreeable. 

Curry,  the  Best,  comes  from  India. — An  imitation  curry  is  made  of  one  ounce  of  coriander 
seeds,  two  ounces  of  cayenne,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cardamon  seeds,  one  ounce  salt,  two 
ounces  of  tumeric,  one  ounce  ginger,  half  an  ounce  of  mace  and  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  saffron. 

Prepared  Red  Pepper  is  made  with  paprika  (Hungarian  red  pepper),  and  Spanish  sweet 
pimentos  mixed  in  equal  quantities.  In  case  paprika  cannot  be  had  use  quarter  cayenne  pepper 
and  three-quarters  Spanish  pimentos. 

Spices. — Before  grinding  spices  be  careful  that  they  are  the  freshest;  grind  each  kind  separately 
and  sift  them  through  a  silk  sieve,  then  mix  thoroughly  and  put  them  into  hermetically  closed 
bottles,  and  set  these  in  a  cool  place  (they  are  only  to  be  mixed  when  ready  to  use). 

Spices  for  Bread  Stuffing. — Two  ounces  of  sage,  one  ounce  of  marjoram,  half  an  ounce  of 
cayenne  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  one  ounce  of  thyme,  two  ounces  of  white  pepper,  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  nutmeg,  and  half  an  ounce  of  finely  minced  green  celery  leaf. 

Spices  for  Game  Pies  and  Galantines. — One  pound  of  cinnamon,  one  pound  of  nutmeg,  one 
pound  of  cloves,  one  pound  of  whole  peppers,  three  ounces  of  cayenne  pepper,  three  ounces  of 
sweet  Spanish  pepper,  three  ounces  of  thyme  and  three  ounces  of  bay  leaf.  These  spices  should  be 
mixed  in  the  proportion  of  one  ounce  to  a  pound  of  salt. 

Spices  for  General  Use. — Two  ounces  of  cinnamon,  two  ounces  of  nutmeg,  two  ounces  of 
cloves,  two  ounces  of  white  pepper,  twelve  ounces  of  prepared  red  pepper,  four  ounces  of  mace, 
two  ounces  of  thyme,  two  ounces  of  sage,  two  ounces  of  marjoram,  two  ounces  of  rosemary.  One 
ounce  of  spices  to  two  pounds  of  salt. 

Spices  for  Turtle  Soup. — Two  ounces  of  curry,  half  an  ounce  of  thyme,  two  ounces  dry 
mushrooms,  half  an  ounce  of  sage,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  half  an  ounce  garden  citron, 
half  an  ounce  of  basil,  half  an  ounce  marjoram,  half  of  the  peel  of  a  chopped  lemon,  two  ounces  of 
white  pepper.  These  aromatics  and  spices  are  used  when  there  is  no  time  to  prepare  a  stock,  or 
when  preserved  turtle  has  to  be  used.  Two  ounces  of  spices  to  one  pound  of  salt. 

Spices  for  Goose  Liver  Patties  (Pate  defoiesgras). — Four  ounces  of  nutmeg,  four  ounces  of 
cloves,  four  ounces  of  basil,  four  of  marjoram,  four  of  thyme,  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  black  pepper, 
three  ounces  of  white  pepper,  two  and  one-third  ounces  of  bay  leaf,  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  mace, 
two  and  a  half  ounces  of  ginger,  two  and  a  third  of  coriander  seeds,  one  and  two-thirds  ounce  of 
sweet  pepper.  One  ounce  of  these  mixed  spices  to  every  two  pounds  of  salt. 

(169).  STEAKINE;  HOW  TO  OAST  AND  OOLOE  IT  (Ste~arine;  Manierede  la  Oouleretde  la  Colored 
Casting  stearine  in  plaster  molds  is  most  simple  and  only  requires  a  little  attention.  Tinned 
copper  molds  should  be  smooth  in  the  inside  and  even  polished.  Put  all  the  plaster  molds  in  a  vessel 
after  separating  each  piece  and  leave  them  in  tepid  water  for  half  an  hour  or  longer  according  to 
their  size.  For  tinned  copper  molds  coat  them  first  with  a  thin  layer  of  stearine,  then  place  another 
layer  on  this  first  one  and  continue  until  the  stearine  be  sufficiently  thick.  The  stearine  must  be  melted 
in  a  bain-marie  or  on  a  slow  fire,  being  careful  to  keep  it  stirred  and  also  not  to  heat  it  too  violently 
so  that  it  remains  white,  for  if  too  greatly  heated  it  turns  yellow  and  thereby  looses  its  beautiful  white 
appearance;  if  this  should  happen  it  should  only  be  used  to  coat  the  inside  of  large  pieces  or  else 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


215 


for  pads  for  filling  the  inside  of  borders.  To  cast  stearine  in  plaster  molds,  take  the  molds  from 
the  water,  drain  them  out  for  u  moment  and  then  fit  each  piece  into  its  respective  place ;  tie 
around  firmly,  fill  up  with  the  melted  stearine  and  when  a  light  crust  has  formed  on  the  surface, 
break  it  and  empty  out  the  mold  ;  let  rest  for  one  minute,  put  it  back  into  the  water,  remove  and 
unmold  with  the  greatest  care.  Should  the  unmolded  pieces  fail  to  be  smooth  or  else  be  creased, 
this  is  caused  by  the  stearine  not  being  sufficiently  warm  and  the  molds  too  cold,  and  that  the 
stearine  was  cast  too  slowly.  This  is  of  great  importance  to  observe  and  is  most  essential  when 
perfection  is  required.  When  the  objects  intended  for  casting  are  frail,  such  as  rings,  arms, 
figures  or  other  thin  pieces,  it  will  be  advisable  to  insert  thin  wires  into  these  parts  before  casting 
the  stearine  in  the  mold.  After  unmolding  the  subjects,  wash  the  mold  well,  being  careful  that  no 
particles  of  stearine  remain  in  the  joints,  so  that  it  can  be  thoroughly  closed  and  the  stearine 
cannot  escape  through  these  joints  Scrape  the  seams  or  moldings  carefully.  Stearine  subjects 
can  be  colored  with  one  or  more  colors;  for  this  purpose  use  water  paints  (tubes  in  preference). 
This  kind  is  mostly  employed  for  this  work  and  to  it  add  a  little  beef  gall  to  enable  the  paint  to 
adhere  on  to  the  greasy  surface.  Use  a  soft  badger  brush  and  proceed  with  care;  always 
wait  until  the  first  coat  be  dry  before  applying  another.  With  a  little  taste  and  skill  subjects 
can  be  painted  so  that  a  great  effect  is  produced,  especially  for  the  larger  ones.  When  required  to 
be  bronzed,  mix  a  few  drops  of  gum  arab  with  a  little  of  the  gall,  add  bronze  powder  and  a  little 
water  ;  stir  well,  keeping  it  the  consistency  of  honey.  Paint  over  the  subject  with  a  camel's  hair 
brush  and  if  one  coat  be  not  sufficient  then  give  another,  adding  a  little  more  water. 


(170).  TO  STRAIN  PUKEES  (Pour  passer  les  purees). 


Fio.  9!'a. 


FIG.  99. 

Vegetable,  chicken, 
crustacean,  and  game 
purees  are  strained 
through  a  tammy  (Fig. 
99)  in  order  to  obtain 
them  as  fine  as  possible. 
To  accomplish  this  it 
will  require  the  service 
of  two  persons :  take 
hold  of  the  tammy  on 
both  sides,  pour  the 
puree  into  its  hollow 
center,  then  have  two 
wooden  spoons  one  lay- 
ing in  the  other,  and 
press  them  vigorously 
against  the  tammy, 
allowing  the  puree 


216  THE    EPICUREAN. 

to  fall  into  a  deep  dish  set  underneath;  this  is  easily  accomplished  and  depends  entirely  upon  the 
regular  motion  of  the  two  spoons,  as  they  must  advance  backward  and  forward  without  getting 
separated,  or  use  either  one  of  the  machines  shown  in  Figs.  99a  and  99b. 

(171).  TO  COOK  SUGAE  (Pour  cuire  le  sucre), 

In  former  days  sugars  were  less  refined  than  in  our  time,  therefore  it  was  most  important  that 
they  should  undergo  the  operation  of  clarification,  or,  as  the  very  word  implies  rid  them  of  their 
impurities  and  make  them  perfectly  clear.  To-day  this  operation  is  almost  useless,  however,  in 
case  of  necessity  we  will  give  the  exact  manner  of  proceeding,  for  it  may  sometimes  be  found 
useful.  Put  twenty  pounds  of  sugar  into  a  copper  basin,  melt  it  with  two-thirds  of  its  quantity  of 
water,  or  one-half  pint  of  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  scum 
begins  to  rise,  throw  in  some  egg-whites  beaten  up  with  water,  the  proportions  being  one  white  for 
each  quart  of  water;  do  not  stir  it  again,  but  let  it  rise  to  the  surface  twice,  then  pour  in  half  a 
pint  of  clear  water  without  eggs;  let  it  rise  a  third  time,  and  as  it  does  so,  remove  from  off  the  fire 
and  skim  it.  Return  it  to  one  side  of  the  fire  to  let  it  boil  and  drive  the  scum  on  one  side  of  the 
basin,  skim  this  off  as  quickly  as  it  gathers.  Soon  the  sugar  will  become  very  fine,  clear  and  trans- 
parent, but  if  otherwise,  then  let  it  boil  till  it  clarifies  thoroughly  and  pass  it  through  the  flannel 
bag.  Sugar  clarified  by  this  process  is  ready  to  be  submitted  to  all  kinds  of  cooking  which  we 
explain  further  on.  The  cooking  of  sugar  is  easily  measured  by  a  thermometer,  but  a  clever  work- 
man will  quickly  find  it  out  by  the  mere  touch.  These  various  cookings  take  different  names  which 
we  will  now  endeavor  to  explain. 

First — Liss6  ou  Petit  Filet  or  Small  Thread. — Cook  the  sugar,  and  in  order  to  be  sure  that 
it  has  reached  the  first  cooking,  take  out  a  little  of  the  sugar  with  a  spoon,  dip  the  index  finger 
in  it  and  apply  the  finger  to  the  thumb;  separate  the  two  fingers  immediately,  the  sugar  should 
then  form  a  small  thread,  the  thermometer  marking  two  hundred  and  fifteen  degrees  Fahrenheit, 
(one  hundred  and  one  degrees  Centigrade). 

Second — Grand  Lisse  or  Large  Thread. — At  two  hundred  and  seventeen  degrees,  the 
sugar  stretches  a  little  more  between  the  fingers,  it  is  now  cooked  to  large  thread  (one  hundred 
and  two  degrees  Centigrade). 

Third — Petit  PerU  or  Little  Pearl. — The  sugar  reaches  this  cooking  when  between  the 
two  fingers  it  stretches  and  forms  a  thread  that  breaks.  The  thermometer  is  then  two  hundred 
and  twenty  degrees  (one  hundred  and  five  degrees  Centigrade). 

Fourth — Grand  PerU  or  Large  Pearl. — As  soon  as  the  sugar  extends  from  one  finger 
to  the  other  without  breaking  it  has  reached  large  pearl,  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  degrees 
Fahrenheit  (one  hundred  and  six  Centigrade). 

Fifth — Au  souffle  ou  Glue,  or  the  Blow. — Dip  a  skimmer  into  the  sugar,  knock  it  at 
once  against  the  edges  of  the  basin,  blow  through  the  skimmer  so  as  to  make  the  small  bubbles  fly 
out,  and  when  they  do  so  properly,  the  sugar  has  reached  its  degree  of  cooking.  The  thermometer 
now  marks  two  hundred  and  thirty  degrees  Fahrenheit  (one  hundred  and  ten  degrees  Centigrade). 

Sixth — Petit  Bouleor  Small  Ball. — Dip  the  finger  first  into  cold  water,  then  in  the  sugar,  and 
immediately  into  water;  if  the  sugar  has  reached  to  proper  cooking  or  small  ball,  it  can  be  rolled 
into  a  soft  ball  between  the  fingers,  two  hundred  and  thirty-six  to  two  hundred  and  thirty-eight 
degrees  Fahrenheit  (one  hundred  and  fourteen  to  one  hundred  and  fifteen  degrees  Centigrade). 

Seventh — Grand  BouU  or  Large  Ball. — When  the  thermometer  reaches  two  hundred  and 
forty-six  to  two  hundred  and  forty-eight  degrees  Fahrenheit  or  one  hundred  and  nineteen  to 
one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees  Centigrade,  then  the  ball  instead  of  remaining  soft  when  rolled 
between  the  fingers,  becomes  solid  and  hard,  the  sugar  has  now  reached  large  ball. 

Eighth— Petit  Casst  or  Small  Crack. — Dip  the  tip  of  the  finger  into  cold  water,  then 
into  the  sugar  and  rapidly  into  cold  water  again,  so  as  to  detach  it  from  the  finger;  if  it  has 
reached  its  proper  cooking  it  should  break.  The  thermometer  is  now  two  hundred  and  ninety 
degrees  Fahrenheit  (one  hundred  and  forty-three  degrees  Centigrade). 

Ninth — Casst  or  Crack. — Letting  the  sugar  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  it  will  reach  the 
crack;  now  dip  the  finger  into  cold  water,  then  into  the  sugar,  and  again  into  the  water,  the 
sugar  must  break  between  the  teeth  without  adhering  to  them.  It  reaches  this  degree  when  the 
thermometer  is  at  three  hundred  and  ten  degrees  Fahrenheit  (or  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  degree? 
Centigrade). 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS.  217 

Tenth.  Grand  Casse"  or  Large  Crack  or  Caramel. — This  last  cooking  is  exceedingly  delicate 
and  requires  the  most  particular  care,  so  as  to  avoid  having  the  sugar  turn  black  which  it  is  apt  to 
do  very  easily.  When  reaching  this  last  cooking,  the  sugar  slightly  loses  its  whiteness  and 
assumes  a  shade  scarcely  perceptible  to  the  eye;  this  is  when  the  thermometer  reaches  three  hundred 
degrees  Farenheit,  and  it  is  now  time  to  add  to  each  twenty  pounds  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice.  Continue  the  cooking  and  when  the  thermometer  reaches  three  hundred  and  forty- 
five  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  degrees  Fahrenheit,  then  remove  the  basin  quickly  from  the  fire, 
and  instantly  pour  its  contents  on  a  marble  to  get  cold. 

These  are  the  various  degrees  the  cooking  of  sugar  undergoes,  practice  alone  makes  perfect  in 
this  particular  work,  which  can  only  be  acquired  after  much  study  and  attention. 

(172).  SUGARS  OF  DIFFERENT  COLORS,  AND  ICING  SUGAR  (Snores  de  Diffe"rentes  Couleurs  et 

Sucre  a  glace  Impalpable). 

For  Pink,  have  powdered  sugar  from  which  icing  sugar  has  been  sifted,  spread  it  on  a  baking- 
sheet  covered  with  white  paper,  lay  the  tin  on  top  of  a  very  moderate  fire,  and  pour  into  it  sufficient 
carmine  to  give  it  the  necessary  color;  mix  and  rub  it  slowly  between  the  hands  until  the  moisture 
contained  in  the  carmine  be  entirely  evaporated,  then  sift  it  through  a  sixteen  mesh  sieve 
(Fig.  97). 

For  Yellow. — Prepare  the  sugar  the  same  as  for  the  pink,  using  Breton  vegetal  yellow. 

For  Orange. — The  same  as  the  pink,  coloring  with  Breton  vegetal  orange,  or  yellow  and  red 
mixed  to  imitate  orange. 

Lilac  and  Violet. — The  same  as  the  pink,  coloring  it  with  red  and  ultramarine  blue,  or  else 
with  Breton  vegetal  lilac  or  violet. 

Blue  — Breton  vegetal  blue  and  ultramarine  blue. 

Green. — Breton  vegetal  green,  or  else  spinach  green  or  watercress  green. 

Icing  Sugar. — There  are  very  few  cities  where  powdered  sugar  is  unobtainable,  also  icing 
sugar  (confectionery  sugar),  but  in  case  it  has  to  be  prepared  at  home  the  following  remarks  will 
be  found  useful.  Pound  some  lump  sugar  to  the  finest  powder,  pass  it  through  an  ordinary  sieve, 
then  through  an  icing  sieve  called  a  drum;  this  latter  includes  two  sieves,  one  for  passing  ordinary 
sugar  and  another  much  finer  for  passing  the  icing  sugar,  meaning  exceedingly  fine  powdered 
sugar  almost  impalpable. 

(173).  BAND  TART  (Tourte  a  bande). 

Roll  out  on  a  floured  table,  a  layer  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  cut  in  this  a  round,  eight 
inches  in  diameter,  lay  this  round  on  a  small  baking-sheet,  moisten  the  border  with  a  brush,  and 
apply  on  this  wet  part,  a  puff -paste  border  having  received  six  turns,  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  and  twenty-six  inches  long;  cut  the  two  ends  bias,  fasten 


Fio.  100. 


them  together  after  slightly  dampening  them  and  set  the  tart  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Prepare  an  egg  wash  of  well  beaten  whole  eggs,  or  the  yolks  alone  diluted  in  a  little 
cold  water,  apply  it  to  the  border,  prick  the  inside  or  else  put  in  a  small  mold,  to  prevent  it 
inflating,  then  set  the  tart  in  a  hot  oven  the  ,-ame  as  for  a  vol-au-vent  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes. 
After  removing  it  from  the  fire,  detach  it  from  the  sheet,  and  lay  it  on  a  dish  to  keep  warm. 

(174).  EMPTY  TARTS,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Tonrtes  k  1'Ancienne). 

Spread  on  a  baking-sheet  a  layer  of  foundation  paste  eight  inches  in  diameter;  wet  the 
edges  of  this  crust  using  a  brush,  and  lay  on  the  center  a  spherical  shaped  pad,  four  and  three- 
quarters  in  diameter  and  two  and  one-half  high,  made  of  paper  and  wrapped  in  slices  of  fat  pork. 
Cover  this  pad  with  an  upper  layer  of  paste  made  with  puff-paste  clippings,  fasten  the  upper  and 


218  THE    EPICUREAN. 

lower  crusts  together  by  pressing  them  down  with  the  thumb,  and  cut  away  the  surplus  paste  with 
the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  following  the  outlines  of  the  lower  crust.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the  crust  and 
piace  it  on  a  band  of  six-turn  puff  paste  (No.  147),  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  by  twenty-six  inches 
long,  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  cut  off  the  ends  on  the  bias,  wet  them  slightly  and  fasten 


FIG.  101. 

them  together  with  the  finger;  channel  the  band  lightly,  decorate  the  dome  with  leaves  cut  from  the 
paste,  egg  the  surface,  also  the  band,  and  bake  the  tart  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes  in  a  well  heated, 
but  not  too  hot  oven.  After  removing  the  tart  from  the  fire,  cut  the  dome  at  the  base  so  as  to 
remove  the  pad;  it  is  now  ready  to  fill. 

(175).   THICKENINGS  POK    SOUPS,   SAUCES   AND   STEWS  (Liaisons  pour  Potages,  Sauces  et 

Kagouts). 

Thickening  for  Soups. — Put  some  egg-yolks  into  a  bowl,  beat  them  up  with  a  wooden  spoon 
and  dilute  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  raw  cream;  some  broth,  or  cold  sauce;  pass  this  through  a 
sieve  or  tammy,  add  a  dash  of  grated  nutmeg  and  a  few  bits  of  fine  butter.  Boil  well  the  soup, 
remove  it  to  one  side  of  the  range  and  mix  in  the  strained  thickening;  return  it  to  the  hot  fire,  to 
let  cook  without  ceasing  to  stir  and  especially  without  letting  it  boil. 

For  Sauces. — This  thickening  is  composed  of  egg-yolks  beaten  and  diluted  with  some  cold 
broth  or  raw  cream.  In  order  to  thicken  the  sauce,  it  should  necessarily  be  boiling,  then  remove 
it  from  the  hot  fire  and  stir  a  spoonful  or  more  of  it  into  the  thickening,  then  pour  the  rest  of  the 
thickening  into  the  sauce  and  cook  it  while  stirring  over  a  slow  fire,  without  permitting  it  to  boil. 
All  sauces  thickened  with  eggs  must  afterward  be  strained  through  a  tammy. 

Thickening  or  Liaison  Prepared  Ready  to  Use. — Twenty-five  egg- yolks  for  one  quart  of 
cream;  mix  well  together,  pass  it  through  a  fine  strainer  and  keep  it  in  a  pot  (Fig.  171)  in  order 
to  thicken  sauces  and  stews  as  they  are  needed. 

Butter  and  Cream  Thickening. — Incorporate  some  butter  and  cream,  and  just  when  ready 
to  serve,  stir  it  vigorously  (do  not  heat  it  again),  and  serve  it  at  once. 

Blood  Thickening. — Reserve  the  blood  of  poultry  or  game,  adding  to  it  a  little  vinegar  to 
prevent  it  from  coagulating,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve  and  stir  it  in  gradually  when  needed  to 
thicken  a  sauce. 

Arrowroot,  Fecula  and  Cornstarch  Thickening. — Dilute  one  or  the  other  of  these  with  some 
water,  broth  or  cold  milk;  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  pour  it  into  the  liquid,  stirring  it 
continuously. 

Thickening  of  Kneaded  Butter. — Incorporate  as  much  flour  into  butter  as  it  will  absorb  to  form 
a  soft  paste;  mix  it  in  small  parts  in  the  sauce,  stirring  constantly  until  all  the  butter  is  melted. 

(176).  TO  LINE  AND  BAKE  TIMBALE  CRUSTS  (Pour  Foncer  et  Cuire  les  Croutes  a  Timbales). 
Butter  a  plain  timbale  mold,  five  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bottom,  five  and  a  quarter  across 
the  top  and  five  and  a  half  inches  deep.  If  the  timbale  is  to  be  decorated,  apply  some  bits  of 
sweetened  noodle  paste  against  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  mold,  dampen  them  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  water  and  then  line  the  timbale  with  a  paste  not  rolled  out  too  thin.  With  a  pastry 
cutter,  two  inches  in  dkimeter  narrower  than  the  mold,  cut  the  paste  from  the  bottom,  but  do  not 
remove  it;  cover  the  whole  surface  of  the  paste  with  buttered  white  paper  and  fill  in  the  empty 
space  with  common  flour;  dampen  the  edges,  and  cover  the  top  first  with  a  round  piece  of  buttered 
paper,  and  then  with  a  layer  of  the  same  paste,  fastening  it  down  to  the  dampened  sides.  Egg 
over  the  surface,  and  let  it  rest  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  cool  place,  then  set  the  timbale  on  a  round 
baking  sheet  and  cook  it  for  fifty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  After  removing  it,  unmold,  open  the 
top  (the  end  which  before  was  the  bottom),  and  lift  up  the  round  piece  previously  cut  with  the 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


219 


pastry  cutter,  and  which  can  easily  be  removed,  then  take  out  all  the  flour  through  this  opening, 
also  the  paper,  and  brush  the  inside  twice  over  with  egg-yolks,  then  lay  the  timbale  for  a  very  few 
moments  in  a  very  hot  oven  so  that  it  browns  nicely,  and  range  it  on  a  dish  to  be  garnished. 


FIG.  103. 


(177).  TO  BRUSH  AND  PEEL  TRUFFLES  (Pour  Brosser  et  Peler  les  Truffes). 
Put  some  raw,  fresh  truffles  into  cold  water;  wash  them  well,  changing  the  water,  then 
take  them  out  one  by  one,  and  rub  the  surfaces  over  strongly  with  a  hard  brush,  and  throw  them 
as  fast  as  they  are  done  into  clean  water,  drain;  take  them  out  again  one  by  one,  and  remove  with  a 
small  knife  all  those  parts  the  brush  failed  to  touch,  then  refresh  them  leaving  them  as  little 
as  possible  in  the  water.  Wipe  the  truffles  on  a  cloth,  and  with  the  tip  of  a  knife  detach  all  the 
skin  covering  them,  cutting  it  away  as  thinly  as  possible,  put  the  truffles  as  fast  as  they  are  done 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  well-fitting  lid;  put  also  the  peelings  into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  them  in  a 
cool  place  while  waiting  to  be  used. 

(178),  TO  DRESS,  SINGE  AND  TRUSS  POULTRY  AND  GAME  FOR  ENTREES  (Pour  Habiller, 

Plamber  et  Brider  la  Volatile  et  le  Gibier  k  Plumes  pour  Entries). 
After  having  dressed  (drawn)  and  singed  the  pieces  of  poultry  or  game,  remove  the  fork  and 

breastbone,  lifting  it  out  through  the  neck  without  injuring  the  breasts;  cut  the  legs  below  the 
joint,  suppress  the  drumstick  bones,  and  slip  the  leg  into  its  place, 
having  previously  burned  the  top  of  the  leg  with  alcohol  so  as  to  remove 
the  outer  skin.  To  truss  either  capon,  young  turkey,  pullet,  chicken 
or  guinea-fowl:  first,  have  a  trussing  needle  threaded  with  some  strong 
string,  pass  it  through  one  thigh  to  the  other  and  in  the  joint  of  the 
thick  part  of  the  leg,  then  cross  through  the  wing  directing  the  needle 
toward  the  neck,  and  take  up  the  skin  of  the  neck  while  passing  through 
it,  fastening  it  down  to  the  back;  pass  through  the  other  wing,  tighten 
the  string  so  that  the  wings  and  thigh  are  well  attached  to  the  body  of 
the  fowl,  and  the  breasts  are  quite  prominent.  Secondly,  with  the 
needle  cross  through  the  back 
near  the  rump,  direct  the 

needle  so  that  it  passes  the  thickest  part  of  the  two  legs, 

fasten  the  string  strongly  so  that  the   thigh  is  well 

attached  to  the  side,  thrust  the  posterior  inside,  and  tie 

it  down  with  a  few  turns  of  a  string.     To  prepare  geese 

and  tame  ducks  for  entrees,  suppress  the   wings  and 

neck,   singe  and  pick  them,  cut  off  the  claws,   truss 

the   legs   inside,   and   fasten   them   down   by   crossing 

through  with  the  needle  at  the  joints  of  the  thighs  and  FlG  104 

the  stumps  of  the  wings;  give  them  a  rounded  appear- 
ance, and  push  the  posterior  into  the  inside,  and  tie  it  firmly  in  place.     For  squabs,  partridges  and 

quails:   pluck  the  feathers,  singe  and  lightly  pick  them  and  draw  them  through  the  pouch;  then 

truss  them  by  making  an  incision  in  the  rump,  and  tie  them  the  same  as  the  chickens. 

(179).  TO  DRESS,  SINGE  AND  TRUSS  POULTRY  AND  GAME  FOR  ROASTING.  (Pour  Habiller, 

Flamber  et  Brider  la  Volaille  et  le  Gibier  k  Plumes  pour  Rotir). 

Dressing  poultry  and  feathered  game  consists  of  first  bleeding,  then  plucking  out  the  feathers, 
drawing,  singing  and  trussing  them.  To  dress  a  chicken  it  must  first  be  singed  lightly  all  over  with 
spirits  of  wine  set  afire,  or  over  a  gas-jet,  in  order  to  remove  every  vestige  of  feathers.  When  the 
poultry  or  game  is  singed,  then  pick  out  all  the  feather-stumps  remaining  in  the  skin.  Burn  off 
the  skin  from  the  legs  to  enable  it  to  be  taken  off  with  a  cloth.  To  singe  small  birds  stick  them 
simply  on  small  skewers  four  or  six  at  a  time  and  pass  them  over  a  flame.  For  drawing  a 
chicken  cut  on  the  back  of  the  neck  making  a  long  aperture  through  which  the  pouch  and  wind 
pipe  can  be  removed;  put  the  index  finger  into  the  interior  following  the  neck  to  detach  the  lungs 
adhering  to  the  inside;  make  a  small  opening  next  to  the  rump  to  empty  the  chicken  entirely  and 
then  wipe  out  the  insules,  cut  the  skin  below  the  head,  chop  the  neck  off  on  a  level  with  the  breast 
chop  off  the  feet  and  the  end  of  the  pinions  and  cross  the  wings  over  the  back  of  the  chicken. 
Thread  a  long  piece  of  string  into  a  large  trussing  needle,  lay  the  chicken  on  the  table,  pressing  it 


220 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


down  on  its  back,  then  with  the  open  left  hand  take  hold  of  the  two  thighs,  so  as  to  keep  them 
held  up  at  an  equal  height,  pass  through  the  flesh  with  the  needle  just  below  the  drum-sticks,  turn 
the  chicken  over  on  its  side  to  thread  it  through  the  wings,  running  the  needle  through  the  breast 
skin;  pull  the  string  tight  tie  it  on  the  side  with  a  knot,  and  lay  the  chicken  once  more  on  its 
back,  press  the  thighs  down  again  with  the  left  hand  and  run  the  needle  through  above  the  drum- 


FIG.  105. 


FIG.  106. 


sticks,  then  turn  the  chicken  over  on  its  side,  and  introduce  the  needle  across  the  carcass,  and  at 
a  quarter  of  the  length  of  the  bird  near  the  rump  to  the  other  side,  to  meet  the  other  end  of  the 
string  and  then  tie  it  into  a  knot  (Fig.  106).  In  this  manner  the  chicken  is  properly  trussed, 
and  both  knots  being  on  the  same  side,  they  are  easily  cut  and  the  string  pulled  out  when  the 
chicken  is  cooked.  Pheasants,  partridges  and  pigeons  are  to  be  trussed  the  same  way  when  in- 
tended for  roasting.  After  the  poultry  or  game  is  trussed,  lard  it  with  thin  slices  of  fresh  pork, 


FIG.  107. 


FIG.  108. 


FIG.  109. 


sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  whole  breast,  pare  them  square  shaped,  score  them  lightly  on  one 
side,  and  lay  them  over  the  breast,  fastening  them  on  with  a  string  as  shown  in  Fig.  109. 

Wild  Ducks  (Canvas  Backs,  Red  Heads,  Slack  Heads,  Mallard,  Ruddy,  Teal,  etc.). — Select 
two  fine  red  head  ducks,  pick  them  as  far  up  as  one  inch  from  the  head,  being  very  careful 
not  to  tear  the  skin;  singe  and  draw.  In  order  to  accomplish  this,  the  skin  must  be  cut  the  whole 
length  of  the  neck  from  its  beginning  until  the  back  of  the  head  is  reached,  remove  the  pouch  and 
windpipe,  stick  the  finger  in  the  neck  far  down  in  the  inside  to  detach  the  lights  from  the  bones 


FIG.  no. 


FIG.  111. 


and  all  adhering  to  the  breast,  make  an  incision  above  the  rump  and  take  out  the  gizzard  drawing 
up  the  whole  of  the  insides;  cut  the  neck  where  it  begins  at  the  carcass,  cutting  the  skin 
as  far  up  as  it  is  picked.  Wipe  the  duck  carefully,  thrust  the  feet  inside  and  season  it 
interiorly  with  salt  and  mignonette.  Should  the  duck  be  gamy  it  must  have  the  inside 
washed  out.  Pick  the  feathers  from  the  head  and  separate  it  where  the  neck  finishes  ; 
pick  out  the  eyes  and  place  the  head  in  the  opening  that  was  used  for  drawing  the  bird;  truss  the 
duck  bringing  the  feet  toward  the  front  and  passing  the  trussing  needle  threaded  with  string  near 


ELEMENTARY    METHODS. 


221 


the  first  joint  of  the  thigh  next  to  the  feet.  Run  the  needle  through  the  duck  under  the  breast 
and  then  across  the  other  thigh,  pressing  the  duck  down  well  so  as  to  round  well  the  breast,  bring 
the  neck  skin  down  on  the  back  and  run  the  needle  on  the  bias  through  the  pinion-bone  at  the 
same  time  through  the  neck  skin  to  pass  it  through  the  other  pinion  and  return  from  whence  it 
started,  pull  the  string  tight  and  push  the  rump  inward,  running  the  needle  through  to  keep  it  in 
place,  and  bringing  it  back  to  one  inch  from  its  starting  point,  passing  it  through  the  skin  and 
through  the  head  by  the  eyes,  fasten  the  two  ends  of  string  together  tying  them  firmly. 

(180).  VOL-AU-VENT  CRUST  (Croute  de  vol-au-vent). 

Prepare  a  puff  paste  with  one  pound  of  fine,  dry  flour  and  one  pound  of  good  butter,  proceed- 
ing as  for  No.  146;  give  it  six  and  a  half  turns,  and  when  the  paste  is  made,  lay  it  on  a  floured 
baking  tin,  and  set  on  top  of  it  a  model  of  tin  or  heavy  cardboard  having  the  exact  dimensions 
desired  for  the  vol-au-vent,  cut  the  paste  all  around  this  with  a  small,  heated  knife,  following  the 
outlines  of  the  model,  but  keeping  the  knife  slightly  inclined  outward.  As  soon  as  the  vol-au-vent 
is  cut,  turn  it  with  one  stroke  upside  down  on  to  another  dampened  round  baking  sheet,  being 


FIG.  112. 

careful  not  to  injure  its  shape;  groove  the  edges  lightly  with  the  back  of  a  knife  as  represented  in 
in  the  plate  (Fig.  112);  egg  the  surfaces  over,  and  trace  a  ring,  using  the  tip  of  a  small  knife  an 
inch  and  a  half  from  the  edge,  then  in  the  center  of  this  ring  trace  four  or  five  light  incisions  to 
form  lozenges.  Bake  the  vol-au-vent  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes  or  more  according  to  its 
size,  opening  the  oven  as  little  as  possible.  When  the  paste  is  dry  and  a  fine  color,  take  it  out,  open 
it  by  lifting  up  the  center  cover,  and  empty  it  of  all  the  uncooked  paste  within,  lay  the  vol-au-vent 
on  to  a  dish,  and  keep  it  warm  in  the  heater,  not  allowing  the  crust  to  get  cold  before  using  it. 
Small  vol-au-vent  crusts  may  be  prepared  the  same  way,  using  a  three  and  a  half  inch  pastry 
cutter  to  cut  them  with. 

(181).  SMALL  VOL-AU-VENT  CRUST  IS  TWO  PIECES  (Petites  croutes  de  vol-au-vent  en  deux  pieces). 
Roll  out  with  the  rolling  pin  on  a  floured  table,  one  pound  of  six-turn  puff  paste  (No.  146), 
one  quarter  of  an  inch  to  three-eighths  in  thickness,  let  it  rest  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
cut  from  its  surface  six  channeled  or  plain  round  pieces  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  as 
soon  as  this  is  done,  remove  the  centers  with  a  smooth  pastry  cutter  two  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter;  dipping  it  each  time  into  hot  water  so  as  to  make  a  clean  cut,  but  it  must  be  wiped  dry 
before  using.  Cut  up  the  clippings  of  paste,  roll  them  to  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  this  piece  cut  six  round 
channeled  or  plain  round  under  crusts  three  and  a  half  inches 
in  diameter,  range  these  at  regular  distances  on  a  wet  baking 
sheet,  moisten  the  edges  of  the  paste  with  a  brush,  and  lay  on 
top  of  each  one,  one  of  the  prepared  rings,  taking  them  up 
delicately  so  as  not  to  break  them,  and  press  lightly  on  them  to  fasten  the  edges  together;  egg  the 
surfaces  of  the  rings,  and  let  them  rest  for  ten  minutes,  then  push  the  baking  sheet  into  a  well 
heated,  but  moderate  oven  to  bake  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes;  after  removing,  detach 
them  from  the  tin,  press  the  center  of  the  paste  down  with  the  finger,  and  keep  them  warm  for 
garnishing.  Small  vol-au-vents  may  be  prepared  the  same  way  making  them  of  one  piece  only. 

(182).  WHITE  STOCK  FOR  MEATS  AND  VEGETABLES  (Blanc  pour  cuisson  de  Viandes  et  Legumes). 
Have  half  a  pound  of  chopped  beef  suet  or  marrow,  and  as  much  fresh  fat  pork,  melt  the 
whole  in  a  saucepan,  adding  to  it  two  minced  carrots,  two  onions  and  one  onion  with  six  cloves  in 
it,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bayleaf  and  as  much  thyme  and  a  bit  of  mace.  Add  to  it 
a  teaspoonful  of  whole  peppers,  and  put  this  on  the  fire  to  fry  without  coloring.  Mix  in  well  one 
ounce  of  flour,  and  dilute  with  three  quarts  of  water,  and  four  quarts  of  broth,  salt,  and  the  pulp 
of  two  lemons.  This  stock  is  used  for  cooking  calf's  heads,  lamb  trotters  and  also  for  artichoke 
bottoms,  cardoons  and  oyster  plants. 


Fid.  113. 


FIG.  114. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


KITCHEN   UTENSILS. 


EOASTEE  AND  SPITS  (Kotissoire  et  broches). 

In  large  kitchens  the  only  roaster  possible  is  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  115  with  its  broad  hearth,  long 
spits,  long  hanging  chains  and  wheels;  an  endless  chain  with  a  weight  sufficiently  heavy  to  rotate  it, 


FIG.  116. 


FIG.  115. 

steam,  electricity  or  hydraulic  pressure  can  to  be  used  advantageously  to  attain  the  same  end.  Fig.  117, 
represents  a  roasting  spit  for  small  game,  quails,  woodcocks,  thrush,  etc.  It  is  provided  with  six 
skewers;  run  the  game  on  to  one  of 
these  through  the  two  leg  bones;  use 
as  much  as  possible  the  different 
sides  for  different  games,  for  instance 
one  side  for  quails,  partridges  or 
thrush  and  the  other  three  skewers 
for  snipe,  woodcock,  plovers,  bus- 
tards, etc.  These  spits  are  very 
useful  for  large  dinners,  for  eight 

quails  can  be  put  on  each  skewer  or       ^^— — — — ;  •          ,.„          ,,,,,,^,     _...^^^..,r^-rr-Jy 

forty-eight   quails    can    be   roasted  FIG  ]lg  H 

at   once  without  having  them   too 

crowded.     The  length  of  the  spit  is  sixty-eight  inches  and  the  length  of  each  one  of  the  six  skewers 
is  twenty  inches.     For  cradle  spit  No.  116,  the  cut  of  meat  to  be  roasted  such  as  loin,  the  saddle 


FIG.  117. 


224 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


is  placed  exactly  in  the  center  to  regulate  the  weight  evenly.  The  simple  spit  for  poultry,  game, 
turkey,  etc.  is  shown  in  Fig.  118.  A  spit  being  at  times  an  impossibility,  one  is  frequently 
obliged  to  have  resource  to  the  more  simple  roasters.  The  greatest  objection  to  the  old 
fashioned  shell  roaster  is  that  the  spit  did  not  turn  alone,  it  had  to  be  everlastingly 


FIG.  119. 


FIG.  120. 


turned  for  if  left  the  meat  would  certainly  spoil;  a  great  improvement  on  this  is  the  turning 

spring  spit  to  be  wound  up  like  a  clock  and   strikes  an  alarm  when  slackening  by  the  movable 

balls  of  the  fan  striking  on  a  gong  (Fig.  119).     There  are  other  roasters  having  two  spoons  turning 

at  the  same  time  as  the  spit  feeding  a  small  reservoir  found  on  the  top  of  the  spit  and  through 

a  shallow  furrow  perforated  by  small  holes,  the  meat  is 

continuously  basted.     The  three  pieces  composing  this 

oven  are  movable  and  can  therefore  be  transported 

to  any  desirable  place;  the  shell  can  easily  be  fastened 

on  to  the  wall.     There  are  also  English  spits  adapted 

for  all  hearths  (Fig.  120);  it  is  easy  to  fasten  it  to  a 

movable  hearth  fitting  with  the  spit.     These  are  run 

by  clock  work  placed  on  top;  the  roasts  are  suspended 

perpendicularly  and  always  turn  in  the  same  direction. 

Fig.  121  represents  a  wrought  or  sheet  iron  pan; 
the  interior  has  a  basket  which  is  used  for  frying  small 
fish,  potatoes,  croquettes,  etc.  Place  inside  the  objects 
intended  for  frying  and  plunge  the  basket  into  the 
frying  fat  after  it  has  attained  the  required  heat;  the 
articles  being  cooked  and  of  a  fine  color,  withdraw  tne 
basket  to  drain  them  properly. 

Fig.  122  represents  a  copper  case  containing  four  high  saucepans  called  bain-maries. 
A  bain-marie  consists  of  a  vessel  filled  with  boiling  water  into  which  is  placed  another  vessel  con- 
taining the  substances  that  are  required  to  be  heated.  The  materials  placed  in  the  second  vessel 


FIG.  121. 


FIG.  122. 


FIG.  123. 


can  only  acquire  the  temperature  of  the  boiling  water  and  heat  gradually  and  progressively  and 
therefore  can  be  stopped  at  any  time.  Each  saucepan  should  be  ticketed  with  the  name  of  the 
sauce  it  contains  so  that  any  sauce  or  soup  can  be  selected  without  wasting  time  in  searching  for  it. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


225 


Fig.  123.  The  salamander  and  oven  hithertofore  used  in  kitchens  to  glaze  or  brown 
dishes  presented  difficulties  on  account  of  the  attention  and  watchful  care  it  necessarily 
required.  By  means  of  the  new  gas  salamander,  fish  can  be  almost  instantaneously  glazed  when 
covered  with  a  well  thickened  or  buttered  sauce  without  any  danger  whatever  of  having  the 
sauce  curdle.  This  salamander  is  lighted  by  gas  and  can  be  fastened  to  the  wall  at  the  back 
of  the  range.  It  consists  of  two  platforms,  the  upper  one  fixed  and  the  lower  one  movable 
and  sufficiently  big  to  place  the  largest  dishes  on  it.  Naturally  the  gas  comes  from  the  top 


Fio.  124. 

and  it  is  easy  to  regulate  its  intensity  by  a  stop  cock.  Two  minutes  suffice  to  obtain  a  perfect  glaz- 
ing without  having  the  bottom  of  the  dish  attain  the  slightest  heat,  thus  the  sauce  cannot  deteri- 
orate whatever.  It  is  an  indispensable  utensil  and  assists  the  cook  greatly  both  as  regards  its  use- 
fulness and  speed. 

Fig.  124  is  the  reproduction  of  a  very  useful  broiler,  offering  numerous 
facilities  for  various  purposes.  The  broiling  takes  place  in  a  metal  case,  it 
being  provided  with  five  gas  tubes,  having  the  sides  bored  with  small  holes, 
the  gas  projects  into  small  bells  to  have  it  purified  and  then  can  be  used  for 
broiling  without  the  annoyance  of  smell  nor  smoke.  It  is  principally  used  for 
broiling  toasts,  canapes,  or  toasts  for  sandwiches;  meats  can  also  be  broiled 
thereon  such  as  cutlets,  chops  and  beefsteaks.  When  the  bottom  is  closed 
with  a  movable  door,  it  can  be  used  for  roasting  chickens,  legs  of  mutton, 
beef,  etc.  The  top  part  is  useful  for  keeping  things  hot.  All  gas  stoves  can 
be  regulated  and  moderated,  according  to  the  work,  by  modifying  or  in- 
creasing the  volume  of  gas. 

Fig.  125  shows  a  singeing  apparatus  shaped  like  a  horn;  the  largest  part,  from  whence  issues 
the  flame  is  covered  with  a  very  fine  metallic  cloth  which  causes  the  flame  to  become  enlarged. 
There  is  an  opening  on  the  other  or  thin  end  about  an  inch  in  diameter  for  the  purpose  of 
combining  the  air  with  the  gas,  forming  a  Bunsen  burner.  Poultry  and  game  can  be  singed 
without  blackening  the  skin  whatever. 


FIG.  125. 


FIG.  126. 


Fig.  126  is  a  steam  table  with  covered  dishes,  cases  and  bain-maries.  The  square  boxes 
are  used  for  soups,  stews,  etc.;  the  covered  dishes  for  large  pieces  of  meat  to  be  carved  and 
for  entrees;  the  small  steamers  are  for  keeping  the  sauces  and  gravies.  Instead  of  a  dish  on  the 
right,  place  a  carving-board  with  a  knife  and  fork.  The  inside  is  used  for  keeping  the  dishes  hot 
before  and  after  they  are  dressed.  These  steam  tables  are  heated  by  steam  or  gas,  and  are 
advantageously  used  either  as  a  hot  closet  or  as  a  substitute  for  a  chafing  dish. 


226 


TtLE    EPICUREAN. 


BROILER  AND  RANGE  (Grillade  et  Pourneau). 

The  broiler  shown  below  is  most  useful,  for  on  it  can  be  cooked  all  meats,  either  using  charcoal, 
embers,  or  gas.     In  olden  times  meats  were  broiled  on  the  embers  of  a  chimney  hearth,  fanning 


FIG.  127. 

continuously  to  keep  the  fire  alive.     For  many  years  sliding  broilers  have  been  used  and  charcoal. 

With  gas  the  broiling  is  done  in  a  metal  case,  by  a  gas  tube  having  the  sides  pierced  with  small 
holes.  Although  gas  is 
very  little  used  in  kitchens 
still  it  deserves  to  be  en- 
couraged ;  for  not  only 
does  this  style  of  broiling 
interest  amateurs  by  its  in- 
genuity, but  it  also  has 
its  particular  advantages 
which  are  manifold,  as  the 
operation  takes  place  with- 
out the  slightest  trouble 
and  without  having  the 
meats  give  forth  any 
smoke  or  disagreable 
smell,  for  the  heat  attains 

the  meat  from  the  top  and  all  the  escaping  fat  falls 

into  a  receptacle    Fig.  127  shows  an  improved  range 

an  explanation  of  which  is  unnecessary. 

POETABLE  HEATER  (Etuve  Portative). 
This  heater  is  used  for  transporting  meats  out- 
outside  or  keeping  hot  dishes  to  be  served.     It  is 
heated  with  small  cakes  of  prepared  coal,  made  red- 
hot  in  the  hearth  of  the  range,  then  put  into  a  small 
sheet-iron   box  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  heater.         It  can  also  be  heated  with  an  alcohol  lamp. 
The  heaters  are  made  of  tin  and  provided  wich  two  gratings  inside;  they  can  be  of  any  size  (Fig.  128). 


FIG  128. 


FIG  139 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


227 


STEAM  KETTLE  WITH  DOUBLE  JACKET  (Marmite  a  Vapeur  avec  Double  Pond. 
Fig.  129.  A  steam  double  bottom  kettle  either  having  a  ball  in  the  center  or  else  a  winding 
pipe.  In  this  same  shaped  pot  all  systems  can  be  employed.  The  one  shown  on  the  figure  has  a 
double  jacket;  on  top  place  a  ring  and  in  this  a  tinned  basin;  fill  it  half  full  of  boiling  water  and 
use  it  for  cooking  ices;  stocks,  broths  and  consommes  are  cooked  in  those  having  a  ball  in  the 
center,  or  else  a  winding  pipe,  but  the  ball  is  preferable.  For  cooking  potatoes,  lobsters,  terrapin, 
etc.,  iron  pots  with  rounded  corners  are  used;  on  the  bottom  is  an  iron  winding  pipe  furnished 
with  holes:  at  the  bottom  is  a  hole  for  letting  the  water  from  the  condensed  stream  run  out,  on 
top  a  hinged  cover  sufficiently  heavy  to  close  it  hermetically,  specially  required  for  these  kinds  of 
pots. 

SAUTOIK,  SAUCEPAN,  SOUP  POT,  BRAZIEKE  (Sautoir,  Casserole,  Marmite,  Braisiere). 

Fig.  130  represents  a  flat,  thick  copper  saucepan,  generally  called  a  sautoir;  they  are  also 
made  of  a  thinner  copper  and  are  intended  for  sauteing  fillets  of  chickens,  escalops,  cutlets,  etc. 
It  is  necessary  to  have  these  of  all  sizes,  large  as  well  as  small. 

Fig.  131  represents  a  copper  saucepan 
tinned  in  the  interior  and  furnished  with  a 
cover  fitting  inwardly.  These  also  must  be  of 
all  sizes  according  to  the  importance  of  the 
work  to  be  executed. 


FIG.  130. 


FIG.  131. 


Fig.  132  represents  a  glazing  saucepan;  the  edges  of  this  one  are  only  half  as  high  as  the 
ordinary  saucepan;  it  is  covered  with  a  hollow  cover  fitting  outside  the  pan;  this  is  for  the  purpose 
of  holding  red  hot  coals  or  ember  so  to  glaze  and  color  the  meats. 


FIG.  132. 


FIG.  134. 


Fig.  133  represents  a  soup  pot  for  broths  with  side  handles,  with  or  without  a  faucet,  serving 
to  draw  off  the  liquid.  Copper  pots  are  preferable  to  iron  or  earthen  ones,  the  first  give  the 
broth  or  soup  a  dark  color  and  the  latter  in  time  acquire  a  bad  taste. 

Fig.  134  represents  a  braiziere  or  long  stew  pan  having  rounded  ends  and  handles.  Its  deep 
cover  is  made  to  hold  hot  embers,  but  this  is  not  necessary  if  the  braizing  is  done  in  the  oven,  then 
a  well  fitting  cover  will  be  found  sufficient. 

FISH  KETTLE  (Poissonniere). 

Fig.  135  represents  a  fish  kettle,  these  are  either  of  copper  or  tin.  The  fish  is  placed  on  a 
metal  sheet  perforated  with  half  inch  holes,  this  has  handles  on  both  sides,  it  is  put  down  into  the 
bottom  of  the  fish  kettle  and  lifted  again  when  the  fish  is  cooked,  thus  avoiding  the  breaking  of  it. 

Fig.  136  represents  oblong  shaped,  deep  baking  pans  having  handles  on  each  end.  These 
pans  are  furnished  with  a  perforated  metal  grate.  Their  raised  edge  cover  (Fig.  136),  can  when 
turned  upside  down,  also  serve  for  a  deep  pan  suitable  for  cooking  flat  fishes,  fricandeaux,  sweet- 
breads, etc. 


228 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


6. 


Fig.  137  represents  a  series  of  six  small  timbales  with  flat  bottoms  ranging  from  No.  1  to  No. 

These  timbales  as  shown  in  the  figures  are  just  half  their  actual  size. 

Fig.  138  shows  a  series  of  convex  molds  for  mousselines,  No.  1  to  No.  6.  These  molds  like 
the  flat  bottomed  ones  are  drawn  half  their  proper  size.  They  are  to  be  placed  on  metal  sheets 
perforated  according  to  the  size  of  the  molds,  supported  by  half  inch  high  feet. 


FIG.  139. 

Fig.  139  are  various  border  molds,  the  first  has  a  concave  bottom  and  is  specially  used  for 
dressing  entrees  of  chicken  and  game  fillets,  quenelles,  etc.  The  second  is  an  oval  mold  with  a 
flat  bottom  useful  for  large  releve  borders.  The  third  is  a  round  bomb  shaped  mold  with  flaring 
sides,  used  for  molding  rice  or  forcemeat  borders.  The  fourth  is  a  plain  bottom  mold  and  the 
fifth  is  of  an  octagon  shape  with  a  flat  bottom. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


BASIN  (Bassine). 

Basins  are  made  of  copper;  as  a  general  rule  they  are  not  tinned.     In  large  kitchens  there  are 
some  that  are  tinned  and  others  that  are  not.     If  untinned  they  can  also  be  used  not  only  for 


FIG  140. 


beating  up  egg  whites,  cooking  fruits,  and  jellies,  but  also  for  blanching  and  cooking  green  vege- 
tables, such  as  spinach,  green  peas,  string  beans,  etc. ,  thereby  retaining  their  natural  color,  giving 
them  a  more  appetizing  appearance. 

KITCHEN  SIEVES  (Tamis  de  Cuisine). 


FIG.  141. 


FIG.  148. 


FIG.  143. 


It  is  impossible  to  perform  any  kitchen  work  without  the  use  of  large  and  small  sieves.  Sieves 
and  colanders  are  indispensable  either  for  straining  purees,  forcemeats,  gravies  and  broths,  for 
draining  purposes  or  when  required  to  be  laid  aside  for  further  use. 

MOLDS  (Les   Moules). 

The  Figs.  144  and  145  represent  two  fancy  jelly  molds;  they  are  cylindrical  shaped,  having 
a  cover  of  the  same  size,  hollow  on  top  so  that  it  can  hold  chopped  ice.  Many  dessert  molds  are 
to  be  found  in  the  market  unprovided  with  covers,  thereby  making 
them  useless  and  inconvenient.  The  Fig.  146  shows  the  cover  of 
the  mold  seen  upside  down  having  a  small  piece  adjusted  to  the 
center  which  fits  into  the  cylinder  of  the  mold. 


FIG  144  FIG.  145.  FIG.  146. 

Fig.  147  is  a  copper  macedoine  mold  with  a  tinned  double  copper  bottom.  This  double  bottom 
is  movable  and  is  kept  at  an  even  distance  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  mold  by  three  catches 
attached  to  it.  If  the  double  bottom  be  removed  it  then  can  be  used  for  aspics  of  foies  gras, 
unmolding  it  on  to  a  jelly  border  having  a  support  placed  in  the  center. 


230 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


JUICE  PRESS   (Presse  Sues). 

These  presses  are  for  extracting  all  the  liquid  parts  of  fruits  needed  for  preparing  syrups  and 
fruit  jellies,  such  as  currants,  raspberries,  blackberries,  strawberries  and  barberries,  in  fact  all 
fruits.  This  utensil  should  be  made  of  wood  for  all  red  fruits  lose  their  natural  color  when 
brought  in  contact  with  any  metal. 

CREAM  MOLDS  (Moules  a  Oreme). 

Made  of  tin  or  copper;  they  are  fancy  and  cylindrical.  Used  for  molding  cold  creams,  pains 
of  fruits,  blanc  manges,  etc.  (Fig.  148). 


FIG.  148. 


FIG.  149. 


JELLY  AND  BABA  MOLDS  (Moules  k  Gele~e  et  Moules  k  Baba). 

Jelly  molds  are  made  both  of  copper,  tinned  in  the  inside,  fancy  and  cylindrical,  and  are 
used  for  thick  creams,  blanc  manges,  flamris,  etc.  Three  or  four  are  not  too  many  to  have 
in  a  kitchen.  Baba  molds  are  of  copper,  tin  and  earthen- ware  ;  they  are  cylindrical  shaped  and 
generally  have  deep  furrows  in  them,  but  can  be  of  any  shape  (Fig.  149). 

"PAIN"  AND  PUDDING  CYLINDRICAL  MOLDS  (Moules  Oylindriques  a  Pain  et  a  Ponding). 

These  are  cylindrical  shaped,  tinned  on  the  inside.  Generally  puddings  ate  cooked  in  these 
molds,  but  they  can  also  be  used  for  rice  or  fruit  pains,  besides  they  are  very  useful  in  a  kitchen 
either  for  hot  entrees  or  else  molding  hot  or  cold  sweet  dishes.  Dome  shaped  molds  can  also  be 
used  to  poach  pains  and  puddings  (Fig.  150). 


FIG.  151. 


FIG.  153. 


Fig.  151  is  a  copper  mold,  tinned  inside  and  outside,  the  double  bottom  is  removable  and  is 
kept  at  an  even  distance  from  the  edges  and  bottom  by  three  catches  fastened  to  it.  It  can  be 
used  for  cold  dessert  creams;  the  same  mold  without  the  double  bottom,  but  having  a  cover  fitted 
on  the  outside  can  be  utilized  for  hot  or  cold  puddings. 

Fig.  152  rep  resents  a  tin  mold  for  making  paste  croustades  and  can  also  be  used  for  molding 
rice  or  hominy. 


FIG.  153. 


PIE  MOLDS  (Moules  k  Pat6). 

Hot  pie  molds  are  shallow  and  round;  for  cold  pies  they  are  round,  oval  or  oblong;  made  of 
tin  or  copper,  but  the  tin  ones  answer  the  purpose.     The  round  or  oval  ones  are  hinged  (Fig.  153;. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


231 


WHIPS  OR  WHISKS  USED  FOR  KITCHEN  AND  PASTRY  (Fouets  de   Cuisine  et  de 

patisserie). 

Whips  or  whisks  are  made  of  wicker  or  tinned  wire,  several  of  them  should  be  kept  on  hand 
as  they  are  frequently  used.  The  wicker  ones  are  the  best, 
especially  for  beating  creams,  but  for  whipping  hot  liquids, 
such  as  consomme,  sweet  or  meat  jellies,  the  wire  ones 
are  preferable.  When  beating  the  white  of  eggs  be  careful 
to  observe  that  the  tin  on  the  whisks  is  partly  worn  off, 

for  the  contact    of    egg-white  with  new  tin  causes  it  to  curdle  (Fig.  154).      Some  use  whisks 
made  of  untinned  brass  wire,  the  wire  not  being  as  heavy  as  the  other. 


KITCHEN  KNIVES,  CLEAVER,  CAN-OPENER  (Couteaux  de  Cuisine,  Oouperet,  Ouvre-boite). 

Have  one  large,  strong  knife   for  chops,   one  large  carving  knife  for  cooked  meats,    one 
smaller  one  for  the  same  purpose  and  one  kitchen  knife.     It  is  always  advisable  to  keep  a  few 


FIG.  155. 


FIG.  156. 


FIG.  157. 


FIG.  158.    FIG.  159.    FIG.  160.    FIG.  161. 


FIG.  162. 


well  sharpened  ones  in  reserve,  either  for  carving  or  any  other  unforeseen  occasion.  Besides 
these  there  must  be  a  channeled  knife  for  turning  vegetables  and  fruits.  A  knife  for  peeling 
and  also  a  can-opener;  it  is  most  necessary  to  have  a  large  and  strong  cleaver  for 
splitting  bones,  also  to  be  used  instead  of  a  mallet  for  beating  meats  to  flatten 
them  according  to  one's  wants  (Figs.  155  to  162). 

SUGAR  DREDGER  (Poudriere). 

Fig.  163  represents  a  sugar  dredger  containing  about  a  pint.  It  is  to  be 
filled  three-quarters  full  with  powdered  sugar  and  is  used  for  sweetening  pastry, 
fritters,  omelets,  etc. 

FIG.  163. 

LEG  OF  MUTTON  HANDLE  (Manche  a  Gigot). 

These  handles  are  made  of  metal  fitting  on  to  the  bone 
of  a  leg  of  mutton,  lamb  or  ham;  they  assist  the  carver  to  turn 
around  and  cut  the  meat  according  to  necessity.  The  old  style 
ones  are  silver  plated  and  screwed  on  to  the  bone,  but  the  new 

style  are  made  of  steel  and  are  fitted  on  by  means  of  a  rubber  ring  placed  inside  which  grasps  the 

bone  tightly  without  breaking  it  (Fig.  164). 


•232 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


THERMOMETEK  (Thermometre). 

Fig.  165,  a  thermometer  used  for  cooking  sugar.     These  can  be  used  for  all  kitchen  purpose^ 
cold  chambers,  refrigerators,  etc. 


FAHRENHEIT. 


CENTIGRADES. 


FAHRENHEIT. 

Ice 32  degrees 

Burgundy  Wine 45  " 

Ice  Refrigerator 50  " 

Bordeaux  Wine 55  " 

Water   for    unmolding 
ice  cream 40 

Dining  Room 62  " 

BenegalHeat 182  " 

Boiling  Water 212  " 

Bugar  Small  Thread. . .  .215  " 

"     Long  Thread.... 217  " 

"     Pearl 220  " 

"     Large  Pearl 222  " 

"     The  Blow 230  " 

"     The  Ball 236  " 

"     Large  Ball 246  " 

"     Small  Crack 290  " 

"     The  Crack 310 

"     Caramel 345  " 


Caramel 

The  crack 
Small  crack 


The  ball 
Large  pearl 

Small  thread 


Large  ball 
The  blow 

Pearl 
Long  thread 


Grand  casso 

Casse 
Petit  casse 


Grand  boule 

Petit  boule    Souffle  ou  glue 
Grand  Perle  Perle 

Lisse  Grand  Ltos6 


100 


ml  • 

m 


Fm.  165. 

OOPPER  BASIN  FOR  COOKING  SUGAR  WITH  THERMOMETER  (Bassine  pour  Ouire 

le  Sucre  au  Thermometre). 

Fig.  166  is  a  small  copper  basin  with  a  tin  cover  having  a  hole  in  its  top  suffi- 
ciently large  to  allow  the  thermometer  to  be  inserted. 
The  steam  that  condenses  on  the  side  of  the  cover  is 
continually  cleansing  the  sides  of  the  basin,  so  that 
when  the  sugar  is  well  stirred  there  is  no  necessity  to 
watch  it,  only  see  that  it  continues  to  cook  to  the  desired 
heat. 


FIG.  166. 


SYRUP  GAUGE  (Pese  Sirop). 

After  a  person  has  the  habit  of  cooking  sugar  he 
rarely  requires  a  syrup  gauge;  the  degree  of  cooking  can 
be  judged  by  simply  touching  it  with  the  fingers,  but 
those  who  have  not  yet  attained  this  proficiency  need 

always  use  the  syrup  gauge.     Place  in  a  bottle  and  then  plunge  into  the  syrup  this         Fm- 16r- 
glass  instrument  which  rises  or  falls  according  to  the  thickness  or  thinness  of  the  liquid  thereby 
giving  the  exact  degree  of  its  cooking  by  the  numbers  marked  on  it  (Fig.  167). 


KITCHEN    UTEXSILS. 


233 


COLUMN  BOX  (Boite  a  Oolonnes). 

Fig.  168  represents  a  column  box.     These  tubes  are  for  removing  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles, 
tongues,  egg  white,  etc.     The  medium  sized  ones  can  be  utilized  for  stoning  Spanish 
olives;  they  are  also  used  for  coring  apples  and  for  rolling 
paper  frills,  for  cutting  vegetables,  jardiniere,  macedoine 
or  Chartreuse,  for  bread  croutons,  etc. 

LEMON  SQUEEZER  (Presse  Citron). 

Fig.  169  represents  a  lemon-squeezer.     This  kind  is 
in  common  use  and  is  used  for  squeezing  lemons  for  ices, 
FIG,  168,         jellies,  etc. 


FIG.  169. 


STRAINER  (CHINESE),  AND  MIXING  POT  FOR  THICKENING  (Passoire  Chinois   et  Melangenr 

pour  Liaisons). 

Fig.  170  represents  a  sauce  strainer  commonly  called  Chinese;  they  are  made  of  tin  or 
metallic  tammy.  It  is  necessary  to  have  several  sizes  more  or  less  fine  ; 
they  are  either  pointed  or  flat  as  shown  in  the  design  and  are  in  constant 
use  for  sauces  and  gravies. 

Fig.  171  is  a  kind  of  pot  containing  a  mixer. 
This  is  to  stir  egg-yolks  and  cream  together  for 
pouring  it  into  sauces  and  ragouts  for  thickening; 
this  is  found  especially  handy  for  Hollandaise 

i  ^^  .  ma^'M^i  u  SclUCc. 

FIG.  170.       FIG.  in.  GRIDIRON  (Gril). 

Fig.  172  represents  a  thin  wire  double  gridiron;  it  is  useful  for  toasting 
bread,  crackers,  broiling  oysters,  tomatoes,  and  sliced  potatoes.  Stronger 
and  thicker  gridirons  are  used  for  meats  and  fish,  having  just  sufficient  room 
to  hold  the  articles. 

MEAT  CHOPPER  (Pour  Hacher  les  Viandes). 
Fig.  173  is  a  perpendicular  machine  used  for  chopping  meats;  these  are  excellent,  and  are 


FIG.  173. 

well  adapted  for  making  Salisbury  steaks  or  Hamburg  steaks.  They  have  this  advantage  that  they 
cut  the  meats  without  cutting  the  nerves,  so  that  the  meat  comes  to  the  top  lightly  chopped  and 
nerveless. 

PONTAGE  CROUSTADE  MOLD  (Moule  a  Oroustade  Pontage), 


FIG.  174. 

Fig.  174  represents  an  iron  in  imitation  of  a  small  channeled  timbale  mold;  it  has  a  handle 
fourteen  inches  long,  bent  at  the  end  and  is  furnished  with  a  wooden  handle.  This  mold  is  for 
the  purpose  of  making  fontage  croustades  (see  Fontage,  No.  907). 


234 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


KITCHEN  PORK  (Pourchette  de  Cuisine). 
Fig.  175  represents  a  kitchen  fork,   used  for 
turning  over  any  broiled  articles,  sautes  or  else  for 
tossing  rice,  etc. 


FIG.  175. 


o 


SKEWERS  AND  HATELETS    (Brochettes  et  Hatelets). 

^__ ^^_^_n^___  Kitchen  skewers  are  of  iron,  used  for  supporting 

large  pieces  of  meat  when  laid  on  the  spit.     Small  game 


FIG.  176a. 


are  run  on  to  skewers;  the  blade 

is  flat,  rounded  on  one  end  and 

pointed     on     the    other.     Table 

skewers    are    of     white     metal, 

silver    or  plated  ware;  they  are 

used  when  broiling  kidneys  or  other  meats  which  are  thrust  on  them  (Fig.    176).     Fig.    176a 

represents  a  hatelet  and  should  not  be  confounded  with  a  skewer. 

KITCHEN  GRATER  (Rape  de  Cuisine). 

An  utensil  made  of  tin  having  a  semi-circular  surface  bored  with 
projecting  holes  on  which  is  to  be  grated  either  bread,  cheese  or  various 
kinds  of  roots.  There  should  always  be  two  small  graters  in  every 
spice  box,  one  for  grating  nutmeg,  the  other  for  orange,  lemon  or  Seville 
orange  peel.  The  two  latter  ought  to  be  enclosed  in  small  separate 
boxes  (Fig.  177). 

PASTE  PINCHER  (Pince  a  Pate). 

"With  this  small  pincher  the  crest  of  pies  are  pinched;  it  will  be  better  to 

have  two;  one  large  and  one  small  (Fig.  178). 

FIG.  178. 

PASTRY  BAG  OR  POCKET  AND  SOCKETS  (Poche  et  Poche  avec  Douilles). 

These  pockets  are  made  of  unbleached  duck;  they  are  used  for  laying  out  meringues,  choux,  or 
else  quenelle  forcemeat;  they  are  of  the  greatest  utility  in  kitchen  and  pastry  work  and  it  is 
advisable  to  have  them  of  graduated  sizes.  The  sockets  are  movable  and  are  fitted  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pocket  before  filling  them. 


FIG.  177. 


FIG.  179. 


FIG.  180. 


FIG.  181. 


Fig.  180  shows  us  the  graduated  different  sizes  reduced  to  the  tenth  of  their  proper  dimensions; 
these  are  the  ones  most  generally  used  for  kitchen  w»rk  and  pastry. 

Fig.  181  is  half  the  natural  size  and  represents  a  section  of  a  series  of  sockets  the  most 
used  for  all  work. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


235 


SOUFFLE  PAN,  AND  PIE  DISH  (Casserole  a  Souffle",  et  Plat  a  Tarte). 

These  vessels  are  of  plated  ware  or  sterling  silver,  made  in  different  shapes  and  different 
sizes;  they  are  indispensable  in  a  kitchen  and  are  used  principally  for  cooking  souffles,  but  they 
can  also  be  used  for  baking  purposes,  for  poaching  creams  by  bain  marie  and  in  fact  for  serving 
vegetables  or  garnishings  on  the  table  (Fig.  182). 


FIG.  182. 


FIG.  183. 


Pie  Dish. — Made  of  English  china  that  can  be  placed  in  the  oven  without  any  danger  of 
cracking;  they  are  most  useful.  In  these  dishes  one  can  cook  meat,  chicken,  game  or  fish  pies, 
fruit  pies,  or  puddings,  or  creams,  they  can  also  be  used  for  souffles.  There  is  no  end  to  their  utility 
in  a  kitchen  and  there  should  always  be  plenty  of  different  sizes.  What  makes  them  more 
useful  and  convenient  is  that  they  can  very  well  be  placed  on  the  table  with  their  contents  as  they 
were  taken  from  the  oven;  for  instance,  anything  baked,  creams,  puddings,  etc.  (Fig.  183). 


KITCHEN  BRUSHES  (Pinceaux  de  Cuisine). 

Brushes  will  be  found  very  useful  in  a  kitchen;  it  is  better  to  have  several;  they  can  be 
made  by  any  one;  merely  tying  turkeys'  tail  feathers  firmly  together.  Take  the  feathers,  one  by 
one,  remove  the  feathers  on  each  side,  leaving  only  the  end,  then  put  about  fifteen  of  these 


FIG.  184. 


FIG.  184a. 


together,  tie  with  rows  of  strings,  beginning  on  the  feathered  end  and  girding  tightly;  fasten  at 
the  other  or  upper  end,  tying  the  string  firmly;  now  cut  the  lower  end  to  equalize  the  quills; 
they  do  not  last  very  long.  Brushes  can  be  purchased  made  of  hair  with  a  tin  handle,  much 
neater,  stronger  and  easier  to  keep  clean;  these  are  shown  in  the  Figs.  184  and  184a. 


OMELET,  AND  OYSTEE  STEW  PAN  (Poele  a  Omelette,  et  Casserole  pour  les  Huitres). 

Omelet  Pan. — A  black,  iron  pan,  polished  on  the  inside.  These  pans  are  used  principally  for 
omelets;  they  should  never  be  washed;  when  coated  or  burned  on  the  inside,  scrape  with  a  flexible 
knife  all  that  sticks  to  the  bottom,  heat  well  and  then  rub 
with  a  cloth  and  some  salt  until  perfectly  clean.  The 
French  omelet  pans  are  the  best,  both  for  shape  and 
strength  (Fig.  185). 


FIG.  185. 


FIG.  186. 


Oyster  Stew  Pan. — This  saucepan  is  made  of  various  sizes  in  tin  with  a  copper  bottom.  It  is 
furnished  with  a  rounded  cover  perforated  in  the  center  with  several  small  holes.  The  handle  is 
very  long.  This  saucepan  is  used  for  oysters  and  their  liquor  placed  on  the  hot  fire  and  when  the 
steam  escapes  through  the  holes  then  remove  it  at  once  (Fig.  186). 


236 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


SPOONS  (Cuilleres). 

Fig.  187,  represents  four  spoons,  soup  or  table,  dessert,  tea  and  coffee. 

The  approximative  liquid  capacity  is:  six  soup  or  tablespoonfuls   of  liquid  make  a  gill  01 
forty-eight  a  quart. 

Twelve  dessertspoonfuls  of  liquid  for  a  gill;  eighteen  teaspoonfuls  and  thirty-six  coffeespoon- 
fuls.  For  sugar  it  requires  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  for  a  pound,  sixteen  dessert- 
spoonfuls, twenty- four  teaspoonfuls  and  forty-eight  coffee- 
spoonfuls.  For  flour  it  takes  ten  tablepoonfuls  for  a  pound, 
twenty  dessertspoonfuls,  thirty  teaspoonfuls  and  sixty  coffee- 
spoonfuls. 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASUEES  (Poids  et  Mesures). 

Various  ways  of  obtaining  weights  and  measures. 

Weight  by  Quarts. — One  quart  of  water  weighs  two 
pounds  and  four  ounces;  one  quart  of  milk  two  pounds  and 
an  ounce  and  a  half ;  cream  two  pounds  and  one  ounce;  oil 
one  pound  and  fourteen  ounces ;  melted  butter  the  same 
weight  as  oil ;  powdered  sugar  one  pound  nine  ounces  ;  rice 
one  pound  three  ounces;  flour  one  pound  two  ounces;  bread- 
crumbs eleven  ounces;  horseradish  or  cocoanut  twelve  ounces; 
wheaten  grits  or  Indian  meal  fifteen  ounces;  oatmeal  thirteen 
ounces;  semolina  one  pound  seven  ounces. 

Weight  by  Handfals. — A  handful  of  sugar  weighs  six 
ounces;  flour  four  ounces;  bread-crumbs  two  ounces;  rice  three 
ounces;  herbs,  parsley,  etc.,  one  ounce. 

Weight  by  Coffeecups. — Six    cupfuls  of  sugar  weigh  one 
pound;  nine  of  flour  one  pound  ;   eight  of  Indian  meal,  one 
pound;  six  of  rice  one  pound.    Ten  black  coffeecupfuls  of  water  make  one  quart, 
water  make  one  quart.     Four  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  make  one  quart. 


FIG.  187. 


Six  teacupfuls  of 


EEFEIGEEATOE,  ICE-BOX  AND  COLD  EOOM  (Ee~frige~rateur,  Glaciere  Timbre  et  Ohambre  froide), 
These  refrigerators  are  to  be  kept  full  of  ice  so  to  reduce  the  temperature  inwardly  and  to 
avoid  inconvenience  arising  from  the  excessive  heat  of  the  atmosphere.     A  refrigerator  as  shown 


FIG.  188. 


in  the  accompanying  design  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  a  restaurant,  etc.  At  a  third  of  its 
height  are  placed  wooden  gratings  to  uphold  the  ice,  underneath  is  to  be  found  a  sheet  of 
zinc  or  galvanized  sheet  iron  with  a  small  gutter,  at  the  end,  between  this  and  the  sheet  of  iron  is 
a  space  of  six  inches.  The  bottom  parts  of  these  ice-boxes  are  used  for  keeping  either  beef  palates, 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


237 


calf's  heads,  sheep's  trotters,  croquette  preparations  of  all  kinds,  etc. ;  each  compartment  should 
be  entirely  separate  from  one  another,  having  a  special  one  for  fish,  one  for  poultry,  one  for  game, 
one  for  cold  meats,  one  for  garnishings,  etc. 

The  Ice  box  is  simply  a  box  of  an  oblong  shape  sufficiently  thick  to  be  filled  with  a  non- 
conducting material  such  as  charcoal,  sawdust,  tow,  or  simply  an  hermetically  empty  space  not 
to  allow  the  air  to  pass  through  the  box;  they  are  lined  inside  with  galvanized  sheet  iron  or  zinc. 

The  cold  room  is  of  a  more  modern  invention,  the  meats  being  hung  up  in  the  inside.  Cooked 
meats,  also  different  provisions  requiring  a  cold  temperature  of  forty-five  to  fifty  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, such  as  butter,  milk  or  cream,  rest  on  shelves  or  in  drawers,  without  being  in  direct  contact 
with  the  ice,  for  it  is  evident  that  the  cold  air  surrounding  these  provisions  does  not  contain  the 
slightest  moisture  that  might  destroy  their  properties.  Another  advantage  the  cold  room  has  is 
that  a  quantity  of  cold  entrees  or  sweet  dishes  already  decorated  with  the  jellies  that  are  to  be 
served  will  keep  in  perfect  condition  for  a  few  days,  while  those  placed  directly  on  the  ice  do  not 
afford  the  same  security;  however,  each  one  has  its  own  peculiar  advantages  and  one  must  not 
be  sacrificed  for  the  other,  on  the  contrary  in  all  large  kitchens  each  one  has  its  own  place  and 
both  have  become  indispensable. 

MEAT-SAFE  (Garde -Manger), 

This  is  a  kind  of  round  or  square  cage  composed  of  metallic  cloth  on  a  framework  of 
iron  or  wood,  provided  inside  with  several  shelves;  also  hanging  hooks  to  which  can  be  hung 
meats,  poultry  and  game.  On  the  shelves  are  placed  all  the  provisions  that  should  be 
exposed  to  the  air  without  incurring  any  danger  of  contact  with  flies.  These  meat-safes  are 
either  suspended  from  the  ceiling  of  the  pantry  by  a  pulley  or  else  fastened  to  the  wall  outside  a 
window;  in  both  cases  in  order  to  have  them  accomplish  their  purpose  they  must  be  exposed  to  a 
thorough  draught  of  air  in  as  cool  a  place  as  possible.  If  the  meat  safe  is  hung  in  a  room  it  can  be 
entirely  open  on  top,  if  on  the  contrary  it  is  fastened  outside  then  the  upper  part  must  certainly 
have  a  slightly  inclining  roof  so  that  no  rain  can  penetrate  the  inside.  These  meat-safes  are  only 
useful  where  ice  is  scarce  for  ice-boxes,  are  far  preferable  under  all  circumstances. 

CENTIMETERS  AND  INCHES  (Centimetres  et  Pouces), 

Centimetres. 


7 


FIG.  190.— Inches. 


FIG.  192.— Circles. 


Figs.  190  to  196  indicate  the  difference  between  the  centimeter  and  the  inch;  the  dimensions 
of  circles,  triangles,  lozenges,  ovals,  rounds  or  squares  all  measured  by  the  sixteenth  of  an  inch 


238 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


across  the  diameter,  or  on  the  length  for  ovals  and  lozenges.  These  figures  will  at  once  give  an 
exact  idea  of  the  proportions  as  they  are  explained  in  the  different  recipes,  either  for  garnishings 
or  salpicons  or  else  for  the  diameter  of  sockets,  column  tubes,  etc. 


FIG.  195.— Ovals. 


% 

% 

I 

!»/ 

% 

s/       y.     %  i 

/it             /)'^        L-J 

FIG.  196.  -Squares. 

BILL  OF  FAEE  HOLDEE  (Porte-Menu). 

The  bill  of  fare  is  the  programme  of  the  dinner  on 
which  is  found  inscribed  the  dishes  composing  the  meal. 
For  ceremonious  dinners  the  bills  of  fare  are  printed  or 
else  written  on  rich  paper.  They  are  laid  on  the  table  or 
fastened  in  a  holder  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  197;  they  are 
to  be  made  either  of  silver  or  silver  plate;  if  the  bills  of 
fare  are  printed,  they  are  then  usually  laid  between  two 
guests. 

COVERS  POR  ROUND  AND  LONG  DISHES  (Cloches  pour 

Plats  Rends  et  Longs). 

Those  for  the  kitchen  are  made  of  tin  and  are  used  to 
cover  the  dishes  after  they  are  dressed,  either  to  keep  them 
in  the  hot  closet  or  to  carry  to  the  dining-room;  have  always 
round  and  long  ones  for  both  large  and  small  dishes.  These 
require  to  be  kept  very  clean  and  bright. 


F;«.  197- 


SOUPS  CPotasres). 


Soup  is  the  prelude  of  the  dinner;  it  is  a  healtny,  light  and  stimulating  food,  agreeing  with 
every  one,  especially  children  and  old  people.  The  basis  of  soup  is  broth,  and  therefore  it  is  on  this 
article  that  one's  whole  attention  must  be  borne.  There  are  two  kinds  of  soup,  fat  and  lean;  they 
are  divided  into  clear  and  thick;  the  garnishings  for  these  soups  are  either  composed  of  crusts, 
vegetables,  creams  of  game  or  poultry,  eggs,  fish,  quenelles,  tinibales,  chiffonades,  finely  minced 
herbs,  crustacean,  farinaceous,  etc.  These  two  kinds  of  soups  are  divided  into  six  chapters:  First, 
Bisques;  second,  Consommes  and  Garnishings;  third,  Creams;  fourth,  Cosmopolitan  or  Mixed;  fifth, 
Fish;  sixth,  Purees.  Purees  may  be  made  into  creams  by  using  less  butter  and  adding  instead 
cream  and  egg-yolks,  while  creams  can  be  turned  into  purees  by  suppressing  the  cream  and 
egg-yolks,  and  stirring  in,  when  ready  to  serve,  a  piece  of  fresh,  fine  butter. 

(184).  FAT  (La  Graisse). 

Fat  is  insoluble  in  water,  but  melts  by  heat  and  floats  on  the  surface  of  a  liquid.  As  it  is 
enveloped  in  the  cells  of  a  very  fine  indissoluble  membrane,  one  part  of  the  fat  adheres  always  to 
the  fibers,  unless  the  cooking  be  too  long  and  the  cells  are  broken  by  the  force  of  the  boiling.  Fat 
exists  either  separately  in  certain  parts  of  animals,  and  in  other  parts  it  is  interposed  between  the 
fibers;  these  last  parts  are  always  the  most  digestible  and  the  most  nourishing. 

Albumen  (ISAlbumine). — Is  of  the  same  nature  as  the  white  of  egg  which  contains  scarcely 
anything  else  than  albumen;  it  is  soluble  in  cold  or  tepid  water  and  coagulates  between  one  hundred 
and  fifty  to  two  hundred  and  ten  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Albumen  abounds  in  the  blood  and  it  is  found 
in  every  part  of  the  flesh;  it  coagulates  after  being  dissolved,  and  in  broth  forms  what  is  called 
scum,  rising  to  the  surface  of  liquids  in  which  meats  are  cooked.  The  less  blood  the  animal  has 
lost,  the  more  albumen  there  is,  and  as  the  blood  contains  much  osmazome,  the  result  will  be  that 
meat  having  the  most  blood  will  produce  a  more  savory  soup  than  that  which  has  lost  a  larger 
quantity. 

When  a  piece  of  either  beef  or  mutton  is  needed  rare,  it  must  be  plunged  into  boiling  liquid, 
and  being  at  once  seized  by  the  action  of  the  heat,  the  albumen  coagulates  and  encloses  the  osma- 
zome inside.  Allow  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound  of  meat  for  a  leg  of  mutton  weighing  six  to 
eight  pounds;  if  boiled  according  to  this  time  the  meat  will  be  found  rare,  unless  the  boiling  has  been 


240  THE    EPICUREAN. 

too  long.  If  on  the  contrary,  this  same  piece  of  meat  be  put  into  cold  water  and  is  allowed  to 
cook  slowly,  the  albumen  not  coagulating  at  once,  will  let  the  osmazome  escape  into  the  liquid  and 
the  meats  will  be  white  and  less  juicy,  but  as  nothing  is  lost,  the  broth  will  have  gained  by  it  in 
quality. 

Bones  (Les  os). — Are  inorganic  parts  having  much  solidity  besides  being  of  a  gelatineous 
nature;  they  contain  considerable  fat  substance  analogous  to  marrow,  but  this  is  but  a  part  of 
their  matter.  Bones  contain  eight  times  more  gelatin  than  meat.  They  are  generally  split  into 
smaller  pieces. 

(185).   FIBRINE  (La  Tibrine). 

Fibrine  is  insoluble;  it  forms  the  base  of  the  muscles  or  flesh.  After  meat  has  been  very  much 
cooked,  after  it  has  boiled  a  long  time,  the  remainder  of  it  is  almost  pure  fibrine.  Fibrine  is  not 
very  nutritious,  and  when  it  has  thoroughly  exhausted  its  soluble  qualities,  it  becomes  difficult  to 
digest.  Pure  fibrine  has  no  savor,  it  is  insipid  or  flavorless  and  becomes  yellow  and  brittle  after 
drying. 

Gelatin  (La  Gelatine). — Gelatin  is  soluble  in  very  hot  or  boiling  water,  in  tepid  water  it  swells 
and  dissolves  only  partially,  and  in  cold  water  it  softens  without  dissolving.  It  is  colorless,  insipid, 
inodorous  and  is  susceptible  to  pass  rapidly  into  a  state  of  acetic  fermentation.  There  is  very 
little  nutrition  in  gelatin;  when  in  sufficient  quantity  it  gives  the  broth  the  peculiar  quality  of 
forming  into  a  jelly  when  cold.  Gelatin  exists  in  all  parts  of  the  meat,  but  more  profusely  in 
gristle  and  bone.  In  a  pure  state  it  is  insipid. 

Osmazome  (IS Osmazome). — Soluble  even  when  cold,  this  is  a  part  of  the  flesh  of  the  beef,  of  the 
brain  and  of  certain  mushrooms.  It  is  osmazome  which  gives  to  the  broth  its  savor,  its  aroma  and 
its  sapidity.  It  is  supplied  with  an  exceedingly  stimulating  property,  exciting  the  appetite  and  help- 
ing considerably  to  facilitate  digestion;  it  seems  to  exist  only  in  the  flesh  and  blood,  and  more  abun- 
dantly in  old  cattle  and  in  dark  meats,  than  in  young  animals  and  white  meat  The  properties  of 
osmazome  are  more  perceptible  when  the  meats  are  broiled  or  roasted;  then  the  sapidity  is  stronger 
and  the  aroma  more  exhilarating.  Poultry  gives  very  little  sapidity  to  broths  unless  they  be  old  and 
very  fat,  for  their  grease  has  a  more  pronounced  flavor  than  that  found  in  quadrupeds.  Gristle,  fat 
and  bones  are  entirely  free  of  osmazome;  in  broths  there  is  one  part  osmazome  to  seven  parts 
gelatin. 

(186).  OARE  TO  BE  TAKEN  WHILE  PREPARING  BROTH  (Des  Soins  a  Prendre  pour  Preparer  le 

Bouillon). 

First. — Select  the  freshest  meats  procurable;  do  not  wash,  but  remove  all  that  is  not  of  the 
very  freshest;  bone  and  tie  up  each  piece  separately  leaving  them  as  large  as  possible;  split  the 
bones  and  put  them  into  a  soup-pot  with  cold  water  and  the  meat. 

Second. — Heat  and  boil  it  up  slowly  to  give  the  albumen  time  to  dissolve  in  the  liquid; 
it  coagulates  as  soon  as  the  liquid  reaches  one  hundred  and  fifty  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  rising 
to  the  surface  brings  with  it  all  the  impurities  contained  therein,  which  is  called  scum. 

Third. — Carefully  remove  this  scum  as  quickly  as  it  rises  to  the  surface,  and  before 
the  liquid  boils,  for  after  that  the  scum  partly  dissolves  and  the  rest  of  it  precipitates  and  destroys 
the  transparency  of  the  broth.  "When  the  broth  is  well  skimmed,  add  salt,  allspice,  and  vegetables; 
then  keep  it  boiling  as  continuously  and  slowly  as  possible  to  prevent  too  much  evaporation. 

(187).  CLEAR  BOUILLON  (Bouillon  Olair). 

There  is  nothing  that  resembles  consomme"  more  than  clarified  bouillon,  and  if  it  does  not 
entirely  take  its  place  as  regards  quality,  still  it  is  often  used  instead.  Clarified  bouillon 
is  in  reality  only  an  imitation  of  consomme,  it  is  equally  true  that  with  care  it  can  easily  be 
prepared  in  excellent  conditions,  the  principal  one  being  to  operate  with  good  bouillon,  either  of 
chicken,  beef  or  game,  etc.  To  obtain  clear  bouillon,  only  lean  meats  must  be  used  for  clarification: 
in  order  to  obtain  four  quarts  of  bouillon,  have  one  pound  of  lean  beef  free  of  all  fat  and  nerves, 
chop  it  finely,  and  mix  in  with  it,  two  raw  eggs  and  one  pint  of  cold  bouillon;  place  the  strained 
bouillon  on  the  fire,  skimmed  free  of  all  its  fat,  and  when  it  reaches  boiling  point,  pour  into  it  the 
clarification,  beating  it  well  with  a  whip.  As  soon  as  the  bouillon  boils,  keep  it  to  the  same  degree 
of  heat  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  for  one  hour;  skim  the  fat  off,  season  with  salt  and  a  little 


SOUPS.  241 

sugar,  and  color  it  with  caramel  (No.  18),  then  remove  and  strain  through  a  wet  napkin  stretched 
and  fastened  to  the  four  legs  of  a  kitchen  stool  (Fig.  99),  or  else  a  silk  sieve.  These  bouillons  are 
to  be  served  with  garnishings  of  Italian  pastes  and  farinas,  also  garnishings  of  vegetables,  etc.,  for 
various  soups. 

(188),  WHITE  CHICKEN  BOUILLON  OR  BROTH  (Bouillon  Blanc  de  Volaille), 
Have  ten  quarts  of  water  in  a  soup  pot;  add  to  it  three  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and 
trimmings,  seven  pounds  of  very  fresh  poultry.  Boil,  skim,  and  put  in  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of  turnips,  twelve  ounces  of  leeks,  two  onions,  one  stuck  with  two  cloves, 
two  ounces  of  celery,  one  ounce  of  parsley  roots,  two  bay  leaves,  salt/sixty  grains  of  whole  peppers; 
boil  slowly  and  continuously  for  four  nours,  then  strain  through  a  silk  sieve.  If  needed  in  a 
great  hurry,  boil  six  quarts  of  ordinary  stock,  have  two  fowls  of  three  pounds  each,  after 
removing  the  breasts,  chop  the  remainder  of  the  fowls  coarsely,  put  them  in  the  stock,  add  four 
ounces  of  minced  carrots  and  six  ounces  of  leeks  also  minced,  boil  slowly  for  one  hour;  skim  off 
the  fat,  season  with  salt,  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  or  moistened  napkin,  and  serve.  The  breasts 
are  used  for  forcemeat  or  to  clarify  broth. 

(189).  CLARIFIED  CONSOMME  (Consomm6  Clarifi6). 

Proportions. — When  the  stock  (No.  194a)  is  ready  put  five  quarts  of  it  into  a  soup  pot, 
adding  two  pounds  of  lean  meat  and  three  pounds  of  cleansed  and  washed  fowls.  Boil  it  up 
slowly,  and  just  when  ready  to  come  to  a  boil,  carefully  remove  the  scum  arising  on  the 
surface  and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  roasted  veal.  Simmer  slowly  until  the  fowl  is  cooked,  which 
will  take  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours,  lifting  it  out  as  soon  as  it  is  done  so  as  to  save  the 
breasts  which  will  be  found  useful  for  garnishings,  purees,  salads,  sandwiches,  etc. ;  return  what 
remains  of  the  fowls  to  the  broth  once  again  and  continue  boiling  for  half  an  hour  longer,  skim  the 
fat  off  very  carefully  and  mix  in  the  clarification. 

Clarification. —Trim  off  the  fat,  remove  the  nerves  from  a  piece  of  beef  sufficient  to  obtain 
two  pounds  after  it  is  chopped  up,  and  mix  in  with  this  chopped  meat  half  a  quart  of  cold  stock 
(or  water) ;  pour  this  clarification  into  the  broth,  add  two  ounces  of  minced  carrots,  and  two 
ounces  of  minced  leeks;  season  with  salt  and  color  the  soup  with  caramel  (No.  18);  keep  the  liquid 
in  a  boiling  state  for  one  hour.  The  consomme  should  be  perfectly  clear,  sapid  and  tasty;  strain  it 
through  a  silk  sieve  or  a  fine  napkin  and  use  when  needed,  serve  in  cups,  or  in  a  soup  tureen 
with  any  garnishing  desired. 

Remoistening . — After  the  stock  or  consomme  has  been  taken  out  of  the  pot,  pour  in  sufficient 
water  to  have  the  meats  entirely  re-covered  and  boil  again  for  three  hours;  remove  all  the  fat 
and  strain  it  through  a  napkin;  do  not  salt  this.  This  remoistening  is  used  for  diluting  certain 
soups,  and  to  moisten  veal  or  chicken  stock  with  which  meat  extract  is  made  (see  meat 
extract,  No.  368). 

(190).  CLARIFIED  CHICKEN  CONSOMME,  (OonsommS  de  Volaille  Glaring 
Put  into  a  soup  pot  eight  quarts  of  white  chicken  broth  (No.  188),  add  two  pounds  of  knuckle 
of  veal,  one  pound  of  chicken  legs  and  pinions,  then  boil,  skim,  and  put  in  four  pounds  of  roasted, 
unbrowned  chicken,  two  minced  leeks,  one  medium  sized  minced  carrot,  one  onion  stuck  with  one 
clove,  a  little  parsley  and  celery  roots.  Boil  continually  for  four  hours.  Chop  up  very  fine  two 
pounds  of  veal,  mix  in  with  it  two  whole  eggs,  dilute  with  one  quart  of  cold  broth  and  stir  this 
into  the  consomme,  using  a  whip,  adding  two  broken  up  chicken  carcasses.  Boil  on  a  slow  fire  for 
one  hour,  salt  it  according  to  taste,  and  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve. 

(191),  CLARIFIED  FISH  CONSOMME  (Oonsomm6  de  Poisson  Clarifia 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  garnishing  it  with  sliced  onions,  and  place  on  top  six  pounds 
of  fish  bones,  such  as  bass,  perch  or  any  other  gelatinous  fish,  a  bunch  of  celery,  parsley,  bay  leaf, 
thyme,  one  pound  of  minced  carrots,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  leeks,  and  dilute  with  one  quart  of 
water.  Cover  the  saucepan,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  fall  to  a  colorless  glaze,  then  moisten 
with  four  quarts  of  hot  water,  boil,  skim  and  let  simmer  for  one  hour,  then  strain  through  a  sieve, 
and  clarify  the  broth  with  the  whites  of  four  eggs  and  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine. 


242  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(192).  OLABIFIED  GAME  CONSOMME'  (OonsommS  de  Gibier  Clarine"), 

Butter  the  inside  of  a  very  thick  saucepan,  cover  the  bottom  with  sliced  onions,  and  lay  on  top 
three  pounds  of  broken  knuckle  of  veal  and  eight  pounds  of  game,  such  as  partridges,  quails, 
pheasants  and  young  rabbit,  also  half  a  pound  of  legs  and  pinions  or  bits  of  poultry,  moisten  with 
a  pint  of  stock,  place  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  cover  the  saucepan;  let  steam  and  fall  to 
a  glaze,  then  dilute  with  half  bottle  of  white  wine,  and  ten  quarts  of  stock  or  water.  Boil,  then 
skim  and  season  with  salt  and  two  pepper  corns  for  each  quart  of  liquid,  two  cloves,  also  half  a 
pound  of  carrots,  one  ounce  of  parsley  roots,  half  a  pound  of  leeks,  two  ounces  of  celery,  the  whole 
minced.  Kemove  all  the  bones  from  two  very  fresh  young  rabbits;  put  these  in  with  the  stock  and 
boil  all  for  four  hours;  strain  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan;  chop  up  fine  the 
flesh  from  the  rabbits  with  as  much  lean  beef  meat,  mix  in  with  it  two  whole  eggs  and  dilute  with 
half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  broth  and  stir  in  the  chopped  rabbits, 
continuing  stirring  for  one  minute,  then  let  come  to  a  boil,  move  it  from  the  hot  fire,  and  boil 
slowly  and  unceasingly  for  one  half  hour  more;  after  the  consomme  is  very  clear,  strain  it  through 
a  silk  sieve  or  through  a  napkin. 

(193),  CLARIFIED  LENT  VEGETABLE  CONSOMME'  (ConsommS  maigre  de  Legumes  Olarifi& 

Mince  about  three  pounds  of  carrots  and  three  pounds  of  turnips,  one  pound  of  the  white  of 
celery,  one  pound  of  onions,  half  a  pound  of  parsley  roots,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  parsnips  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  leeks.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  warm  it  and  fry  the  vege- 
tables, then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  reduce  slowly  until  they  fall  into  a  glaze.  Dilute 
it  with  ten  quarts  of  water,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  sugar  and  cloves,  adding  one 
pound  of  mushroom  stalks,  then  boil  slowly  until  the  vegetables  are  well  done  without  mashing, 
and  strain  through  a  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  fire  and  clarify  the  broth  with  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
and  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine.  After  it  is  very  clear,  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  or  a 
napkin. 

(194a).  BEEF  STOCK  OR  BROTH  (Bouillon  de  Bceuf). 

Proportion  of  Ingredients. — Ten  quarts  of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chicken  legs,  one 
and  one  quarter  ounces  of  salt,  six  ounces  of  leeks,  half  ounce  of  soup  celery,  eight  pounds 
of  meat  with  bone,  twenty  grains  or  cloves  of  black  pepper,  six  ounces  of  carrots,  one  half  ounce 
of  parsnip,  one  half  clove  of  garlic  (if  desired),  two  whole  cloves,  three  ounces  turnips,  four  ounces 
of  onions,  one  of  which  stuck  with  two  cloves. 

Put  ten  quarts  of  water  into  a  stockpot,  add  eight  pounds  of  beef  meat  (trimmings  and  bone), 
let  there  be  at  least  two-thirds  meat,  being  careful  to  have  both  meat  and  trimmings  well  freed 
of  fat;  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  scalded  chicken  legs,  after  removing  the  outer  skin.  Heat 
this  up  slowly  so  that  it  comes  gradually  to  a  boil,  then  skim  carefully  and  add  twenty  grains  of 
whole  black  peppers  and  one  and  one  quarter  ounces  of  salt.  Put  into  a  net  six  ounces  of 
carrots,  three  ounces  of  turnips,  six  ounces  of  leeks,  half  an  ounce  of  parsnips,  one  half  an 
ounce  of  soup  celery,  and  two  ounces  of  onions  in  which  two  cloves  should  be  stuck.  Close  the 
net  and  set  it  in  the  pot;  after  the  vegetables  have  cooked  for  two  hours,  remove  the  net  containing 
the  vegetables  and  continue  boiling  the  soup  for  two  hours  longer,  making  four  hours  in  all. 
Take  off  all  the  fat  from  the  surface  and  strain  the  soup  either  through  a  silk  tammy  or  a  napkin; 
pour  it  into  another  pot  to  make  consomme;  and  in  case  it  should  be  needed  the  following  day 
only,  pour  it  into  vessels  and  set  it  to  cool;  the  following  is  an  economical  way  of  doing  so:  set 
the  vessels  in  a  water  reservoir  supplied  continually  with  cold  water  from  melting  ice  in  the 
refrigerators  and  brought  through  a  pipe  in  the  bottom  of  the  tank,  have  a  larger  overflow  pipe 
placed  near  the  top  so  as  to  allow  the  water  as  it  heats  to  flow  off. 

(194b).  PARTS  OF  BEEF  USED  FOR  PREPARING  BOUILLONS  AND  STOCKS,  SEE  FIG.  302 
(Parties  du  Bceuf  Servant  a  Faire  les  Bouillons  et  les  Fonds,  Voir  Fig.  302). 

These  various  pieces  are  No.  2,  the  cheek  jowl;  No.  3,  the  neck:  No.  4,  the  brisket;  No.  5,  the 
cross-ribs;  No.  6,  the  shin;  No.  8,  the  plate;  No.  9,  the  navel;  No.  10,  the  inside  flank;  No.  11, 
the  thick  flank;  No.  17,  the  round  bottom;  No.  18,  the  leg.  The  shin  is  the  bottom  part  of  the 
hind  quarter  the  nearest  to  the  ankle  bone.  The  gelatinous  flesh  of  the  shin  renders  it  suitable 
for  the  preparation  of  stock,  broths  and  jellies. 


SOUPS.  243 

(195).  GAME,  VEGETABLE,  PISH  AND  CHICKEN  STOCK,  FOR  THICK  SOUPS  (Ponds  de  Gibier, 

Legumes,  Poisson  et  Volatile  pour  Potages  Lie's). 

In  order  to  make  thick  stock  use  consomme  of  game,  vegetables,  fish  or  chicken  before  they 
are  clarified.  Place  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  of  the 
best  quality,  let  cook  well  on  a  slow  fire  without  coloring  when  needed  for  vegetables,  fish  or 
chicken,  but  for  game  make  a  brown  roux;  for  either  one  or  the  other  dilute  this  roux  with  boiling 
broth  (if  the  soup  should  be  a  chicken  soup,  chicken  broth  should  be  used  to  dilute  the  roux,  if 
game  soup  then  game  broth  should  be  used,  fish  with  fish  broth,  for  vegetable,  vegetable  broth). 
Use  a  whisk  turning  it  rapidly,  so  as  to  avoid  having  lumps;  stocks  for  soups  should  be  kept  rather 
thin,  that  is  to  say  but  little  thickened  and  should  be  well  despumated,  the  fat  removed  before 
passing  through  the  tammy;  return  the  saucepan  to  the  fire,  and  stir  continuously  with  a  spatula 
from  the  bottom  until  the  broth  boils.  Remove  the  saucepan  and  place  it  so  that  only  one  side  of 
the  contents  cook  slowly  for  one  hour;  skim  and  take  off  all  the  matter  that  swims  on  the  sur- 
face until  the  stock  be  entirely  free  from  fat,  and  other  impurities  floating  on  top  arising  from 
the  clarification,  then  strain  through  a  tammy  or  fine  sieve,  and  use  this  stock  for  thick  soups 
either  of  game,  vegetables,  fish  or  poultry. 

(196).  BISQUES  (Bisques). 

An  exquisite  and  delicious  bisque.  The  ancient  bisques  made  between  the  years  1700  and  1750, 
differed  greatly  from  our  modern  bisques.  They  were  more  like  stews  than  soups  or  potages  and 
were  prepared  with  squabs,  quails,  pullets  and  fish,  the  crawfish  only  serving  as  a  garnish,  and 
were  basted  over  with  a  crawfish  gravy.  Bisques  as  they  are  made  to-day,  are  simply  a  puree, 
thickened  with  rice,  or  thick  stock,  or  wet  crusts  and  accompanied  by  various  garnishings.  Bisques 
are  divided  into  five  classes:  First,  those  made  of  clams,  oysters  or  mussels;  Second,  crabs; 
Third,  shrimps,  Fourth,  crawfish;  Fifth,  lobsters.  They  must  be  highly  seasoned,  although  not 
containing  much  red  pepper,  rather  clear  than  thick,  slightly  colored,  and  accompanied  by  small, 
simple  garnishings. 

(197).  BISQUE  OR  PUREE  OP  CLAMS  A  LA  HENDRIOK   (Bisque   ou  Pure"e  de  Lucines  a  la 

Hendrick). 

Put  sixty  medium-sized  opened  clams  into  a  pan,  with  their  own  juice;  set  it  on  the  fire, 
and  when  they  are  very  firm  to  the  touch  drain  and  pound  the  clams  with  their  equal  weight  of 
cooked  hominy;  after  all  is  well  pounded  and  reduced  to  a  paste,  wet  it  with  the  clam  juice 
poured  off  gently  from  the  top,  and  some  water  in  case  the  bisque  be  too  thick,  then  pass  it 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy  and  season  with  red  pepper  and  very  little  salt  if  necessary,  warm  the 
bisque  without  boiling  it,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  therein  some  fine  butter  and  a 
little  cream,  garnish  with  sippets  of  bread  fried  in  butter  and  some  small  pike  quenelles  (No.  90). 

(198).  BISQUE  OF  CRABS  (Bisque  de  Crabes). 

Put  twenty-four  live  crabs  in  cold  water  with  a  little  salt,  and  leave  them  to  soak  for  one  hour, 
mince  four  ounces  of  carrot  and  the  same  quantity  of  onion,  fry  them  in  butter  in  a  saucepan 
sufficiently  large  to  contain  all  the  crabs,  add  some  parsley  sprigs,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  season  with 
salt,  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine  and  some  white  stock,  then  cover  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes: 
lift  out  the  crabs,  strain  the  broth,  and  set  it  aside  to  rest,  pouring  off  the  top  twenty-five  minutes 
later.  Remove  the  shells  from  the  crabs;  pick  out  the  lungs  from  both  sides,  wash  each  one 
separately  in  tepid  water  and  suppress  the  small  legs,  then  drain  well  and  pound  them  to  a  paste 
with  half  their  quantity  of  cooked  rice,  dilute  this  puree  with  some  of  the  juice  they  were  cooked  in, 
drain  through  a  sieve  and  then  a  tammy  and  mix  in  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409).  Season  with 
salt  and  red  pepper,  heat  up  without  boiling  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  therein  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  butter,  stirring  it  well  with  a  spoon  until  it  be  completely  melted. 
Pour  the  very  hot  bisque  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  separately  a  garnishing  of  pieces  of  bread 
cut  into  one  quarter  of  an  inch  squares  and  fried  in  butter;  divide  them  by  putting  six  or  eight 
in  each  separate  soup-plate  when  serving. 

(199).    BISQUE  OF  CRABS  A  LA  STEVENS    (Bisque  de  Crabes  a  la  Stevens). 
Wash  twenty-four  live  crabs  in  several  waters;  then  drain  them,  fry  half  a  pound  minced 
onions  in  butter,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  flour  and  then  the  crabs;  moisten  with  half  a 


244  THE    EPICUREAN. 

bottleful  of  white  wine  and  two  quarts  of  broth;  cook  slowly  in  a  covered  saucepan  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  lift  out  the  crabs  only,  and  strain  the  broth  into  another  vessel,  and  leave  it  to 
deposit  its  sediment.  Remove  the  large  shells  from  the  crabs,  also  the  small  legs  and  lungs,  then 
wash  the  crabs  well  in  warm  water,  moving  them  around  in  the  pan  so  as  to  free  them  of  all 
adhering  sand;  after  draining  them  well,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  the  addition  of  a  little  butter; 
moisten  them  with  the  decanted  stock  and  some  other  broth,  should  it  be  too  thick;  strain  through 
a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan.  Heat  to  a  boiling  degree  without  actually 
letting  it  boil,  warm  it,  then  add  some  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter;  strain  again  through  a 
tammy  and  serve  the  soup  very  hot  with  crusts  of  bread  cut  dice  shaped,  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  size. 

(200).    BISQUE  OF  CEABS,  ORIENTAL    (Bisque  de  Orabes  &  1'Orientale), 

Prepare  and  cook  the  crabs  the  same  as  for  bisque  of  crabs  (No.  198),  have  one  pound  of 
onions,  cut  them  in  halves  through  the  center  of  the  root  and  stalk,  remove  from  each  side  of  the 
halved  onion,  and  on  the  bias,  one  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  root  and  stalk;  mince  this  up  very 
fine,  blanch,  then  drain  and  fry  the  pieces  in  butter,  moistening  them  with  one  part  of  cream. 
Pound  well  the  crabs  to  reduce  them  to  a  paste  and  add  six  quarts  of  oatmeal  previously  cooked 
for  thirty  minutes  in  one  quart  of  water.  Add  the  onions,  and  when  all  is  well  mingled  together, 
increase  the  quantity  of  bisque  with  thedecanted  crab  juice  and  more  broth,  if  the  puree  be  too  thick; 
strain  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  return  it  to  the  fire,  and  heat  it  without  boiling,  and  just  when 
ready  to  serve,  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  very  hot  soup 
tureen  and  add  a  garnishing  of  crescent  shaped  quenelles,  made  of  sweet  potatoes  (No.  317). 

(201).  BISQUE  OP  OBAWPISH  (Bisque  d'Ecrevisses). 

Wash  in  several  waters  four  dozen  crawfish  after  removing  the  fins,  the  same  as  for  bisque 
Persigny  (No.  204);  put  the  crawfish  into  a  saucepan,  pouring  over  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine, 
four  ounces  of  minced  onions,  the  same  quantity  of  finely  minced  carrots,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme,  salt,  mignonette,  a  little  red  pepper  and  half  a  pint  of  broth;  cook  all 
together  for  ten  minutes  with  the  cover  on,  tossing  them  several  times  in  the  meanwhile,  then  take 
them  from  off  the  fire  and  leave  them  standing  for  ten  minutes  longer  in  their  broth;  pour  them 
into  a  colander  to  drain,  and  afterward  select  half  of  the  finest,  medium  and  equal  sized  ones;  remove 
the  tail  ends  from  these,  and  the  shells,  and  keep  the  meats  aside  for  the  garnishing,  also  half  of  the 
finest,  but  smallest  shells  from  the  head;  stuff  these  with  a  red  pike  forcemeat  finished  with  crawfish 
butter  (for  this  see  crawfish  butter,  No.  573),  and  with  the  remainder  of  the  crawfish  and  the  frag- 
ments make  a  bisque,  pounding  them  with  their  equal  quantity  of  rice;  when  all  is  well  pounded, 
moisten  with  the  broth  they  were  cooked  in  and  more  plain  broth,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and  a 
tammy.  Warm  it  well  without  boiling,  and  incorporate  into  it  when  ready  to  serve,  a  piece  of 
crawfish  butter;  pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen  and  garnish  with  the  tails  and  bodies  both  cut 
lengthwise  in  two.  Crawfish  bisque  should  be  colored  slightly  more  than  the  shrimp  bisque.  Use  for 
coloring  bisques  some  orchanet  warmed  in  clarified  butter  or  any  other  greasy  substance,  or  clear 
vegetal  carmine.  Breton  makes  an  excellent  coloring  for  bisques. 

(202).  BISQUE  OF  CRAWFISH  A  LA  BATELIEEE  (Bisque  dEcrevisses  k  la  BateliereX 

After  removing  the  fins  from  the  middle  of  the  tails  as  for  a  la  Persigny  (No.  204),  wash 
forty-eight  crawfish  in  several  waters,  drain  them,  mince  some  carrots,  leeks,  onions  and  celery 
root,  fry  them  in  butter  and  just  on  the  eve  of  browning,  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour; 
cook  the  flour  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  add  the  crawfish,  some  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  bay  leaves, 
salt  and  mignonette,  cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  tossing  them  several  times, 
then  drain.  Pick  out  the  meat  from  the  tails,  cut  them  in  two  and  reserve  them  for  the  garnish- 
ing: pound  the  shells  as  well  as  the  claws  with  twelve  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  and  when  a  good  paste 
is  obtained,  moisten  it  with  the  thick  stock,  strained  first  through  a  sieve  not  too  fine,  and  after- 
ward through  a  tammy;  moisten  again  with  fat  or  lean  broth.  Should  the  bisque  be  required  for 
a  lean  dinner;  warm  it  up  without  boiling  and  incorporate  in  half  a  pound  of  crawfish  butter  with 
cayenne  and  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine.  Set  the  crawfish  tails  into  a  soup  tureen  and  pour  the 
bisque  over,  and  when  serving  the  soup  put  into  each  plate  six  pieces  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  square,  fried  in  butter. 


SOUPS.  245 

(203).  BISQUE  OF  OEAWFISH  1  LA  HUMBOLDT  (Bisque  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  Humboldt). 
Wash  thoroughly  in  several  waters,  four  dozen  crawfish,  after  removing  the  fins  from  the 
middle  of  the  tail  (see  bisque  Persigny,  No.  204),  drain  them,  then  fry  in  butter,  some  carrots, 
onions,  leeks,  celery  and  parsley  roots  all  cut  into  small  squares;  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of 
Rhine  wine,  the  same  quantity  of  broth,  and  season  with  salt,  mignonette  and  cayenne,  and  a  gill 
of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  put  this  with  the  crawfish  on  the  fire  in  a  well  covered  saucepan  and 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  tossing  them  frequently  while  cooking;  then  drain  them,  and  pick  out  the 
meat  from  the  tails.  Pound  the  shells  with  double  their  quantity  of  rice  and  when  all  forms  a 
paste,  moisten  with  the  broth  strained  through  a  fine  sieve;  season  and  warm  up  without  boiling, 
and  when  ready  to  serve,  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  crawfish  butter.  Place  the  crawfish  tails 
with  small  pancakes,  cut  round,  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  in  the  soup  tureen  and  pour 
the  bisque  over. 

(204).  BISQUE  OP  CRAWFISH  A  LA  PERSIGffY  (Bisque  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  Persigny). 
Remove  the  small  black  vein  found  in  the  center  of  the  tail  from  forty-eight  crawfish,  using 
for  this  purpose  either  the  tip  of  a  knife,  or  else  by  twisting  it  round  to  the  right,  and  pulling  the 
fin  away  from  the  middle  of  the  tail,  and  the  vein  attached  to  this  will  come  off  at  the  same  time; 
it  is  most  necessary  to  abstract  this  as  it  is  always  filled  with  sand.  Wash  the  crawfish  well;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  broth,  and  the  same  quantity  of  white  wine,  salt,  black  pepper, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  two  minced  shallots,  parsley  and  bay-leaf;  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain 
and  empty  the  bodies  of  twelve  of  the  finest  among  them;  pound  the  others  to  a  fine  paste,  adding 
one  quart  of  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415),  and  one  quart  of  broth;  let  boil  again  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  add  to  the  bisque,  half  a  pound  of  sliced  bread,  buttered  and  browned  in  the  oven;  simnver 
for  fifteen  minutes  longer;  then  strain  first  through  a  sieve,  and  then  through  a  tammy.  Heat  it 
up  once  more,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  buttev, 
with  a  little  red  pepper  added;  fill  the  empty  bodies  with  chicken  force:neat  (No.  62)  and  lobster  OK 
crawfish  butter  mixed;  poach  them  in  boiling  water,  and  when  done  cut  them  lengthwise  in  twor 
have  also  a  garnishing  of  crusts  made  with  savarin,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  dried  in  the  oven, 
and  served  separate. 

(205).  BISQUE  OP  LOBSTEE  (Bisque  de  Homard). 

Plunge  into  boiling,  salted  water,  twelve  pounds  of  small,  live,  well  washed  lobsters;  cook 
them  for  twenty-five  minutes,  then  drain;  break  their  shells,  and  extract  all  the  meat.  Pound  the 
lobster  meat  with  its  equal  quantity  of  boiled  rice;  season  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  then  dilute  it 
with  fat  broth  or  lean,  should  the  bisque  be  desired  lean,  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  again  through 
a  tammy.  Heat  it  up  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  add  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  half  a 
pound  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  stir  well  the  bisque  until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  melted.  Color 
a  lobster  bisque  a  deeper  red  than  the  crawfish.  Crusts  of  brioche,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square, 
and  dried  in  the  oven  may  be  served  at  the  same  time. 

(206).  BISQUE  OP  LOBSTER  A  LA  BENOIST  (Bisque  de  Homard  a  la  Benoist), 
Mince  very  fine  one  medium  carrots,  one  leek  and  two  onions,  fry  them  in  butter  and  moisten 
with  fat  broth,  or  lean,  some  parsley  sprigs,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  garlic,  salt  and  black  pepper.  At 
the  first  boil,  put  in  with  this,  twelve  pounds  of  raw,  live,  and  washed  lobsters,  continue  to  boil 
for  thirty  minutes,  then  drain  them,  break  the  shells,  remove  all  the  meat,  reserve  that  from  the 
claws,  and  pound  the  remainder  with  its  equal  quantity  of  wheaten  grits.  Make  a  light  roux 
with  four  ounces  of  butter  and  five  ounces  of  flour,  moisten  it  with  some  of  the  broth  the  lobsters 
were  cooked  in,  boil,  skim,  add  this  to  the  lobster  preparation.  Heat  it  up  all  together,  then  strain 
through  a  sieve  and  afterward  through  a  tammy,  warm  it  up  again  and  just  when  ready  to  serve 
and  very  hot,  stir  into  the  bisque  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  and  a  quart  of  double  cream. 
Put  a  garnishing  into  the  soup  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over;  serve  as  a  garnishing  the  lobster 
meat  from  the  claws  cut  into  small  Julienne  (No.  318),  and  small  cream  forcemeat  quenelles, 
laid  through  a  cornet  on  a  buttered  tin,  "and  poached  in  a  little  boiling  water. 

(207).  BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER  A  LA  CAMBRIDGE  (Bisque  de  Homard  a  la  Cambridge). 
Select  twelve  pounds  of  small,  live  lobsters,  eight  of  them  in  all;  remove  the  claws  and  cook 
them  apart  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  twenty-five  minutes.     Cut  in  slices  crosswise  the  remainder 
of  the  lobsters,  fry  these  pieces  in  butter  on  a  hot  fire,  adding  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  when 


-246  THE  EPICUREAN. 

slightly  colored,  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  and  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  broth, 
half  a  gill  of  brandy,  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  all  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  remove  the  meat  from 
the  shells,  pound  it  to  a  paste,  and  dilute  it  with  its  own  broth;  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  after- 
ward through  a  tammy;  mix  in  one  quart  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  ;  warm  up  without  boiling,  and 
just  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  soup  with  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  quart  of  cream, 
and  when  the  soup  thickens,  incorporate  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580). 
Put  the  following  garnishing  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over.  Remove  the  meat  from 
the  boiled  lobster  claws,  cut  the  red  part  of  it  in  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  these 
punch  out  rounds  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  using  a  column  tube  for  the  purpose;  also 
have  small,  round  quenelles,  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  made  from  the  fillets  of  a  pike  or  whiting 
in  the  shape  of  round  beads. 

(208).  BISQUE  OP  LOBSTER  A  LA  PORTLAND  (Bisque  de  Bernard  a  la  Portland), 
Cut  twelve  pounds  of  lobster  lengthwise  in  two,  break  the  claws,  sprinkle  over  some  butter, 
and  cook  them  on  a  baking-sheet  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Remove  them,  and  sup- 
press the  largest  shells,  pound  the  meat  with  its  equal  quantity  of  plain  boiled  rice,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  curry,  and  when  all  is  well  reduced  to  a  paste,  dilute  it  with  broth;  strain 
through  a  sieve  and  then  a  tammy,  and  warm  up  the  soup  without  boiling;  thicken  it  with  twelve 
hard  boiled  egg-yolks  pounded  with  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  mix  in  also  a  pint  of  double  cream, 
and  serve  as  garnishing  some  mushrooms  cut  into  fine  Julienne  and  lobster  quenelles.  Put  the 
soup  into  a  tureen. 

Lobster  Quenelles. — Cut  one  pound  of  cooked  lobster  meat  in  thin  slices,  add  the  coral  and 
two  ounces  of  butter;  pound  well  and  when  reduced  to  a  paste,  take  it  from  the  mortar.  Pound 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  panada,  add  gradually  to  it  half  a  pound  of  butter,  then  the  lobster 
paste,  three  eggs,  one  after  the  other,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  two  tablespoons  of  Allemande 
sauce,  test  and  rectify  if  necessary  (No.  60).  Roll  this  forcemeat  to  use  for  lobster  quenelles,  or 
else  fill  some  sheeps'  casings  with  it  to  make  lobster  boudins. 

(209).  BISQUE  OR  PUREE  OP  MUSSELS  1  LA  GUTTING  (Bisque  ou  PurSe  de  Moules  a  la 

Cutting. 

Clean  well  three  gallons  of  raw  mussels,  scraping  them  with  a  knife;  wash  them  several 
times  in  clean  waters,  and  take  them  out  with  the  hand  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  sand  settling  at  the 
bottom.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  minced  onions,  sprigs  of  parsley,  pepper  (no  salt),  and 
one  pint  of  water;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  they  begin  to  get  warm,  toss  them  and 
return  them  to  the  fire;  cover  the  pot,  and  toss  them  again  frequently,  until  the  mussels  open  and 
are  well  cooked,  then  take  them  off,  and  pick  them  from  the  shells,  reserving  about  thirty  of  the 
smallest  for  the  garnishing.  Strain  the  juice,  and  let  it  rest  so  as  to  be  able  to  pour  off  the  top 
and  avoid  the  sediment  at  the  bottom,  pound  the  mussels  with  as  much  pearl  barley  (half  a  pound) 
cooked  in  water,  salt  and  butter,  for  three  hours;  moisten  with  the  mussel  gravy  and  water  in  case 
the  soup  be  too  thick;  season  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  then  strain  all  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
tammy;  warm  it  without  letting  it  boil,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  put  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter, 
stirring  it  well  into  the  soup  with  a  spoon  until  it  be  melted.  Garnish  the  soup  with  the  thirty 
small  mussels  laid  aside,  and  savarin  croutons,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square  and  dried  in 
the  oven.  All  lean  bisques  are  made  exactly  the  same  as  the  fat  ones,  only  substituting  fish  broth 
for  meat,  and  garnishing  with  milts,  scallops  of  sauted  eel  fillets,  pike,  quenelles  with  crawfish 
butter,  crawfish  tails,  and  the  hearts  of  oysters.  The  sieve  used  for  the  bisque  or  puree  is  a  round 
strainer  made  so  as  to  fit  in  the  mortar  having  a  flange  on  the  edge  to  fit  the  outside  of  it,  the 
pestle  is  used  to  force  the  substance  to  be  passed  through  it. 

(210).  BISQUE  OR  PUREE  OF  OYSTERS  A  LA  WILSON  (Bisque  ou  Pure"e  d'Huitres  a  la  Wilson). 
Put  sixty  medium  sized  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  their  own  juice,  set  it  on  a  hot  fire  to  poach 
them;  then  drain.  Fry  colorless  in  some  butter,  two  medium  shallots  and  the  same  quantity  of 
onions;  dredge  some  curry  over,  and  moisten  with  some  of  the  oyster  juice,  season  with  salt  and 
red  pepper.  Pound  the  oysters,  and  when  they  are  a  firm  paste,  wet  them  with  some  of  their 
juice,  and  strain  them  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy,  warm  them  without  boiling,  adding  a  thick- 
ening of  potato  flour  diluted  in  cold  water,  one  tablespoonful  for  each  quart,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  mix  in  some  cream  and  fine  butter;  make  a  garnishing  of  chopped  oysters  and  mushrooms. 


SOUPS.  247 

mixing  some  bread-crumbs  and  fine  herbs  with  these,  and  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg; 
add  some  raw  egg-yolks  and  roll  this  mixture  into  balls;  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  and 
poach  them  in  a  slack  oven. 

(211).  BISQUE  01  SHRIMPS  A  LA  VERAGUA  (Bisque  de  Orevettes  a  la  Veragua). 

Cut  into  small  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  two  ounces  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  onions  and 
two  ounces  of  celery  root;  put  into  a  saucepan  six  ounces  of  butter,  fry  therein  the  vegetables  without 
browning  and  add  three  pounds  of  fresh,  well  washed  shrimps,  one  bay  leaf  and  several  sprigs  of 
parsley,  also  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  and  half  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms.  Boil  for  ten  minutes, 
drain,  remove  the  parsley  and  bay  leaf,  then  shell  a  quarter  of  the  shrimps,  suppressing  the  tails, 
which  must  be  laid  aside  for  the  garnishing,  pound  the  rest  of  the  shrimps  with  the  shells  of  those 
the  tails  were  taken  from,  add  one-fourth  of  the  same  quantity  of  rice  and  moisten  with  the  stock 
and  broth;  strain  this  puree  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  add  one  pint  of  bechamel,  season  with  salt 
and  cayenne  pepper;  warm  without  boiling,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  to  it  a  piece  of  fine 
butter  and  some  cream.  Serve  the  soup  very  hot,  with  Savarin  crusts,  five-eighths  by  one-eighth 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  dried  in  the  oven,  also  the  shrimp  tails  cut  into  small  squares. 

(212).  BISQUE  OF  SHRIMPS  A  LA  MELVILLE  (Bisque  de  Orevettes  a  la  Melville). 

Throw  one  pound  of  shrimps  into  boiling,  unsalted  water  and  cook  them  for  five  minutes, 
drain,  then  dredge  them  over  with  salt  and  toss  in  a  colander  to  mix  the  salt  in  well;  when  cold, 
shell  the  tails  and  keep  them  for  garnishing.  Mince  one  carrot,  one  onion,  a  celery  stalk  and  two 
leeks,  fry  these  in  butter  with  one  bay  leaf  and  moisten  with  three  quarts  of  either  fish  or  vege- 
table stock  and  half  a  bottleful  of  wine;  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes,  then  put  into  this  broth  two 
pounds  of  raw  shrimps  and  the  shells  of  the  tails  reserved  for  the  garnishing;  boil  for  five  minutes 
longer,  then  drain.  Put  into  a  stewpan  two  pounds  of  sliced  bread,  cover  it  with  broth  and  let 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  pound  the  shrimps,  add  the  moistened  bread, 
and  continue  pounding  until  all  is  reduced  to  a  paste,  then  dilute  with  the  shrimp  broth,  and 
press  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  and  strain  through  a  tammy.  Heat  it  up  till  near  the  boiling 
point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  then  thicken  with  eight  egg-yolks  diluted  with  two  gills  of  cream 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  incorporating  it  vigorously  into  the  bisque  with  a  spoon, 
then  pour  it  into  a  very  hot  tureen,  with  the  shrimp  tails  cut  into  three  or  four  pieces  as  a  garn- 
ishing. 

(213).  BISQUE  OF  SHRIMPS,  BRETONNE  (Bisque  de  Orevettes,  Bretonne). 
Have  three  pounds  of  very  fresh  shrimps,  throw  them  into  boiling  salted  water  and  boil  them 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain  and  remove  the  shells  from  the  largest  ones,  allowing  three  for  each 
person;  stuff  these  with  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90),  mixed  with  fine  herbs;  then  poach  them  in  boiling 
salted  water,  drain  and  keep  them  aside  for  garnishing  the  soup.  Pound  the  remainder  of  the  shrimps 
with  a  quarter  of  their  quantity  of  crushed  wheaten  grits,  previously  cooked  in  water  for  thirty 
minutes,  also  twelve  ounces  of  minced  onion  blanched  and  fried  colorless  in  butter,  adding  to  it 
six  spoonfuls  of  flour  diluted  with  milk,  and  cook  all  very  slowly.  Moisten  the  puree  with  broth, 
pass  it  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  put  the  puree  into  a  saucepan,  heat  it  to  near  the  boiling  point, 
then  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper;  when  ready  to  serve  add  a  piece  of  butter.  Place  the 
stuffed  shrimp  shells  in  the  soup  tureen,  pour  the  soup  over  the  puree  and  serve. 

(214).  CONSOMME,  GARNISHIFGS  OF  (Consomme,  garnitures  pour). 

Garnishings  of  Consommes. — Consomme  garnishings  are  served  separately,  by  placing  them 
in  a  tureen  and  pouring  over  sufficient  of  the  soup  to  cover  them;  having  only  a  little  consomme  in 
the  tureen  it  is  easier  to  serve  the  garnishing  without  breaking;  divide  equally  into  each  plate  and 
pour  over  some  clear  consomme;  in  case  the  garnishing  is  to  be  served  in  the  same  tureen  as  the 
soup  (to  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible)  first  put  the  consomme  into  the  tureen,  and  then  the 
garnishing  that  all  may  be  very  hot.  The  garnishings  we  are  about  to  describe  may  be  served  with 
either  beef,  chicken,  game  or  fish  consomme,  for  the  fish  using  the  lean  garnishings.  Consommes 
can  also  be  thickened  with  potato  fecula  or  arrowroot,  by  diluting  these  substances  in  a  little  cold 
water  or  broth,  pour  it  into  the  consomme,  stirring  it  all  the  time  with  a  whip,  boil,  skim  and  then 
add  a  little  Madeira  or  Xeres  wine.  These  soups  are  called  clear  thick  soups  when  they  are 
thickened  either  with  fecula  or  arrowroot. 


248  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(215).  CONSOMME  A  L'ADELINA  (OonsommS  &,  1'Adflina), 

The  admitted  rule  for  all  soups  is  one  quart  of  soup  for  four  persons.  The  garnishing  con- 
sists of  round  chicken  quenelles,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch,  poached  in  boiling  water;  green  peas 
cooked  in  boiling,  salted  water,  and  carrots  cut  into  balls  the  same  size  and  shape,  and  cooked  in 
white  broth  with  a  little  sugar.  Also  timbales,  twelve  pieces  in  all.  Dilute  one-quarter  of  a  pint  of 
pure"e  of  chestnuts  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream  and  four  egg-yolks,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  butter 
some  dome  shaped  tartlet  molds,  put  a  round  piece  of  truffle  at  the  bottom,  and  then  fill  the  molds 
with  the  above  preparation;  set  one  beside  the  other  in  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  reaching  to  half 
their  height,  and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven;  when  firm  to  the  touch,  unmold  and  place  them  in  a 
vegetable  dish  with  the  quenelles,  carrots  and  green  peas;  pour  over  a  little  consomme,  just  sufficient 
to  cover,  and  serve  separately  a  tureen  of  consomme,  having  all  very  hot.  Into  each  plate  put  some 
of  the  contents  of  the  vegetable  dish  and  tureen;  this  rule  stands  for  all  consomme  garnishings, 
that  is,  one  timbale,  and  a  dozen  and  a  half  carrots,  peas,  and  quenelles,  inclusive. 

(216).  CONSOMME  A  L'ANDALOUSE  (Consomm6  a  1'Andalouse). 

For  this  consomme  prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  timbales,  cucumber  crescents,  and  small 
quenelles.  The  timbales  are  made  with  a  pint  of  tomato  puree  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve; 
mix  into  this  ten  raw  egg-yolks  and  a  gill  of  cream;  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg.  With  this  prep- 
aration fill  some  No.  2  timbale  molds  (Fig.  137),  stand  them  in  asautoire  containing  boiling  water  to 
reach  to  half  their  height  and  push  into  a  slack  oven;  remove  as  soon  as  they  are  firm  to  the 
touch  and  let  them  rest  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  divide  each  timbale  into  three  parts.  Place 
them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme.  Pare  some  cucumbers  to  resemble  crescent 
olives,  blanch,  drain,  and  cook  in  consomme.  Have  small  quenelles  made  with  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  half  of  each;  push  them  through  a  pocket  into 
rounds  in  a  buttered  sautoire  and  poach  in  a  little  boiling  salted  water;  add  the  cucumbers  and 
quenelles  to  the  timbales,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  with  a  tureen  full  of  consomme. 

(217).  CONSOMME  ANTONELLI,  LEAN  OE  PAT  (OonsommS  Antonelli,  en  Maigre  ou  en  Gras) 

Use  consomme  of  either  chicken  or  fish,  the  following  quantity  being  for  twelve  persons. 
Keep  on  the  side  of  the  range,  three  quarts  of  chicken  consomme  for  fat,  or  fish  broth  for  lean; 
thicken  one  or  the  other  with  three  spoonfuls  of  tapioca,  and  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes,  skim- 
ming it  nicely.  Choose  sixteen  raw  truffles,  having  all  of  them,  if  possible,  one  inch  in  diameter; 
peel  them  and  mark  with  a  column  tube  of  five-eighths  of  an  inch,  a  place  for  a  cover;  cut  off  the 
round  cover  using  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  and  keep  the  piece  aside;  scoop  out  the  insides  with  a 
vegetable  spoon,  leaving  the  surface  as  thin  as  possible,  then  salt  them,  and  fill  the  empty  space 
with  a  puree  of  goose  livers  (foies-gras)  mixed  with  cream  and  egg-yolks,  or  if  intended  for  lean, 
with  a  puree  of  salmon,  bechamel,  cream  and  egg-yolks.  Close  the  opening  with  the  piece  laid 
aside,  and  arrange  one  beside  the  other  in  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  just  large  enough  to  contain 
them;  moisten  them  to  half  their  height  with  consomme  and  Madeira,  cover  with  buttered  paper, 
and  let  the  water  boil,  then  place  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  so  as  to  poach  the  pre- 
paration inside  the  truffles.  Serve  these  truffles  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  sixteen  fine  cocks'  kid- 
neys if  for  fat,  or  if  for  lean,  sixteen  pike  quenelles  the  same  shape  as  the  kidneys;  serve  also  a 
garnishing  of  small  stars  cut  from  noodle  paste,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme. 

(218).  CONSOMME  BALZAC  (ConsommS  Balzac). 

The  garnishing  for  this  consomme  is  composed  of  three  kinds  of  timbales,  chicken,  shrimps, 
and  green  peas,  and  turnip  balls. 

For  the  Chicken  Timbales  have  half  a  pint  of  chicken  puree,  two  spoonfuls  of  bechamel,  six 
egg-yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg. 

For  the  Shrimp  Timbales,  half  a  pint  of  shrimp  puree,  two  spoonfuls  of  bechamel,  six  egg- 
yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg. 

For  the  Green  Pea  Timbales,  half  a  pint  of  puree  of  green  peas  (No.  261),  two  spoonfuls  of 
bechamel,  six  yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Butter  twenty-four  timbale  molds  (Fig.  137,  No.  2) 
fill  each  eight  with  a  different  one  of  the  compositions;  stand  them  on  a  baking  tin  with  boiling 
water,  reaching  to  half  their  height  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  When  partly  cooled  off,  unmold, 
pare  and  divide  in  three  parts,  cutting  them  across.  i*ut  them  into  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  gar- 
nishing of  turnip  balls,  blanched,  and  cooked  in  consomme  till  they  have  fallen  to  a  glaze;  send 
this  garnishing  to  the  table  with  a  soup  tureen  full  of  consomme". 


SOUPS.  249 

(219).  CONSOMME  A  LA  BAEIATENSKI  (ConsommS  a  la  Bariatenski). 

Make  a  pancake  preparation  (No.  3072),  without  sugar,  and  with  it  cook  some  very  thin  pan- 
cakes; when  done  cut  from  them  pieces  one  and  five-eighth  inches  long,  by  one  and  a  half  wide; 
spread  over  each  piece  a  layer  of  chicken  forcemeat,  mixed  with  chopped  mushrooms  and  parsley 
and  a  little  anchovy  paste;  roll  them  up  and  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  pan;  then  poach  them 
in  a  slack  oven;  prepare  some  marrow  quenelles  (No.  252),  roll  them  into  balls,  five-eighths  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  and  poach  them  in  boiling  water;  have  also  a  pluche  of  chervil  (No.  448).  Serve 
the  same  as  for  a  1'Adelina  (No.  215),  using  chicken  consomme. 

(220).  CONSOMME'  A  LA  BEEEY  (Consomme"  a  la  Berry), 

Prepare  for  this  consomme  a  garnishing  composed  of  small  soft  eggs  (No.  2949),  and  lozenges 
prepared  as  follows:  Take  a  pint  of  puree  of  asparagus,  beat  in  twelve  egg-yolks,  a  little  raw  cream 
and  seasoning;  pour  the  preparation  into  buttered  baking  tins,  the  bottoms  to  be  covered  with  a 
sheet  of  paper;  poach  in  a  slack  oven  and  when  cold  turn  them  over  on  a  napkin;  remove  the 
paper  and  cut  up  into  small  lozenges,  one  inch  long,  by  half  an  inch  wide;  have  also  the  same  sized 
lozenges  cut  from  both  carrots  and  turnips,  keeping  them  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  blanch  and 
cook  separately  in  consomme  and  when  done  the  liquid  should  be  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Serve  the 
garnishings  in  a  separate  tureen,  accompanied  by  a  tureen  full  of  consomme. 

(221).  CONSOMME  A  LA  BEITANNIA  (Consomme"  a  la  Britannia). 

Put  on  to  boil  three  quarts  of  fish  consomme,  or  chicken  if  needed  for  fat;  thicken  it  with 
three  spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  diluted  with  cold  broth,  and  remove  it  to  one  side.  Pound  the  meat 
from  a  cooked  lobster  by  breaking  the  shells  and  removing  about  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  its 
meat,  and  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415).  Season  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix 
this  with  some  chicken  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  divide  it  into  two  parts,  and  color  one  of  them 
delicate  red;  butter  some  long  eight  inch  molds,  by  one  and  one-eighth  square;  fill  half  of  each 
so  as  to  form  a  triangle  with  the  white  forcemeat  and  the  other  half  with  the  red,  place  the  molds 
in  a  sautoire  with  water  to  half  their  height  and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  then  cut  them  in 
slices,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide.  Have  some  asparagus  tops,  and  serve  the  garnishing  in  a  vege- 
table dish  with  a  little  consomme  added,  and  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme  separate. 

(222).  CONSOMME  CAEEME,  LEAN  OE  PAT  (ConsommS  Careme  en  Maigre  ou  en  Gras). 

For  Fat. — Have  chicken  consomme,  thickened  with  arrowroot,  allowing  one  spoonful  for 
each  quart,  and  diluted  in  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine.  Spread  over  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  a  layer  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  poach  it  in  a  slack 
oven,  then  let  get  cold,  and  cut  it  in  lozenge-shaped  pieces:  prepare  crusts  half  an  inch  square,  or 
else  round  shaped  six  by  one-eighth  high,  and  fried  in  butter.  A  printanier  composed  of  small 
vegetables,  trimmed  either  with  a  column,  or  else  a  vegetable  spoon,  using  carrots,  turnips,  and 
string-beans,  blanch  and  cook  them  in  white  broth. 

For  Lean. — Serve  a  fish  consomme  thickened  with  arrowroot  and  a  garnishing  composed 
of  frog  quenelles;  a  small  printanier  trimmed  into  squares,  and  each  vegetable  blanched 
separately  and  then  cooked  in  fish  consomme;  crusts  of  bread  cut  round  shaped,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  laid  over  with  butter  and  browned 
in  the  oven. 

Frog  Quenelles. — Pound  one  pound  of  frog's  meat  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  lay  it  aside; 
pound  also  five  ounces  of  rice  flour  panada  (No.  122)  with  five  ounces  butter,  adding  it  in  three 
different  parts.  "While  still  continuing  to  pound,  season  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg;  add 
the  frog  meat,  pound  again,  then  rub  it  all  forcibly  through  a  sieve.  Mix  in  with  it  one  whole  egg, 
and  two  yolks,  working  them  in  well,  then  try  the  forcemeat  and  rectify  it  if  necessary  ("see 
No.  60).  With  this  forcemeat  make  some  olive  shaped  quenelles,  poach  and  add  them  to  the  rest 
of  the  garnishing. 

(223).  CONSOMME  CELESTINE  (Consomme"  a  la  Celestine), 

A  garnishing  of  thin  pancakes  without  sugar;  spread  over  each  pancake  a  layer  of  chicken  force- 
meat and  fine  herbs;  set  on  top  and  press  down  another  pancake,  add  another  layer  of  forcemeat  and 
one  more  pancake,  and  press  the  whole  lightly,  then  with  a  column  tube  cut  out  round  pieces  one 
and  three-q'uarters  inches  in  diameter;  lay  these  on  a  buttered  baking  tin,  one  beside  the  other,  and 


250  THE    EPICUREAN. 

leave  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  about  ten  minutes,  just  allowing  them  time  enough  to  poach. 
Place  the  garnishing  in  a  tureen  with  some  lettuce  cut  in  very  fine  thread-like  fillets,  blanched  and 
cooked  in  consomme  and  a  pluche  of  parsley  (a  few  leaves  of  young,  blanched  parsley);  serve  at 
the  same  time  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme. 

(224).  CONSOMME  OHAEMEL  (ConsommS  Channel). 

A  garnishing  of  small  timbales  the  shape  of  half  an  egg,  and  one  inch  in  diameter,  have  some 
molds  of  this  shape  and  size;  butter  the  insides  and  set  them  on  a  tin  sheet  having  inch  high  feet 
attached  to  it,  place  this  on  to  a  larger  pan,  the  smaller  one  having  holes  bored  in  seven-eighths  of 
an  inch  in  diameter,  and  a  space  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  between  each.  Prepare  one  pint  of  pigeon 
puree,  adding  to  it  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  Madeira,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  mingle  all  well  together.  Fill  the  molds  with  this  preparation,  pour 
water  into  the  lower  pan,  a  sufficient  quantity  to  half  the  height  of  the  molds,  when  set  in  the 
holes,  and  then  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven,  unmold,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  some  braised 
sweetbreads  pressed  under  a  weight,  cooled  off  and  cut  into  three-eighth  squares,  then  rewarmed  in 
a  little  consomme;  have  also  a  few  Julienne  cut  mushrooms.  Serve  this  garnishing  in  a  vegetable 
dish  with  a  little  consomme.  Serve  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme  separate. 


(225).  CONSOMME  COLBERT,  WITH  POACHED  EGGS  (Consomms  Colbert,  aux  oeufs 

A  garnishing  of  carrots  and  turnips  cut  into  quarter  of  an  inch  balls,  then  blanched  and 
cooked  separately  in  white  consomme.  Green  peas,  lozenge-shaped  string  beans,  and  small  sprigs 
of  cauliflower,  and  some  very  small  eggs  poached  in  water,  salted  and  acidulated  with  vinegar, 
crusts  of  bread-crumbs,  six-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  by  one-eighth  in  thickness,  masked  with 
butter  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

(226).    CONSOMME  COMUS  (Oonsomm6  Comus.). 

A  garnishing  of  small  round  rolls  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  made  of  ordinary 
bread  dough;  in  these  make  an  incision  around  the  flat  side  and  empty  out  the  insides  completely. 
Blanch  some  white  cabbage  leaves,  suppressing  the  cores,  drain  them  and  cut  them  up  very  fine, 
then  fry  them  in  butter  with  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  cooked  ham  cut  in  one  eighth  inch 
squares;  moisten  with  a  little  white  wine,  add  half  its  quantity  of  cooked,  skinned  and  chopped  up 
sausages;  set  this  into  the  rolls,  cover  the  tops  with  a  layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven.  Lay  them  on  a  vegetable  dish  round  side  up;  and  moisten 
with  a  little  good  consomme,  then  let  simmer  fora  few  minutes  in  the  oven;  add  some  cooked  foies- 
gras  (goose  livers)  cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  some  round  five-eighth  inch  slices 
of  lettuce,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme.  Serve  this  with  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme  at  the 
same  time. 

(227),    CONSOMME  OEEAM  OP  PHEASANTS  OE  GAME  (Consomm6  Creme  de  Faisans  ou  Gibier). 

Choose  small,  fresh  pullet  eggs;  boil  them  for  four  minutes  in  boiling  water,  then  lay  them  in 
water  to  cool  off  and  remove  the  shells;  open  them  on  one  end  with  a  tube  half  an  inch  in  diameter 
from  a  column-box  (Fig.  168),  take  out  the  yolks  with  a  root-spoon,  and  empty  them  very  carefully, 
slightly  decreasing  the  thickness  of  the  white;  then  fill  each  egg  separately;  using  a  cornet  for  the 
purpose,  with  cream  pheasant  forcemeat  (No.  75),  or  other  game  forcemeat,  as  soon  as  each  one 
is  done,  close  the  opening  with  the  piece  taken  off,  and  set  each  one  in  an  egg  cup.  Arrange  these 
on  the  bottom  of  a  deep  stewpan  containing  a  little  boiling  water,  close  the  vessel,  and  poach  the 
forcemeat,  by  putting  the  pan  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  slack  oven;  dress  the  egg  in  a  vegetable 
dish  with  a  little  consomme  added,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  soup  tureen  of  game 
consomme. 

(228).    CONSOMME  A  LA  DAUMONT  (Consommg  a  la  Daumont). 

A  garnishing  of  dome-shaped  timbales  decorated  with  trufflas  and  filled  with  a  marechale 
mousseline  (No.  912);  then  poach  in  a  slow  oven  and  serve  separately,  some  blanched  turnips  and 
cut  into  balls  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  cooked  in  white  consomme;  small  pate  a  chou 
(No.  132)  balls,  with  parmesan  cheese,  the  size  of  greer  peas,  and  fried  a  fine  color;  some  blanched 
chervil  (pluche),  and  rice  cooked  in  white  broth.  Serve  all  the  garnishing  in  a  vegetable  dish, 
and  a  tureen  of  chicken  consomme  at  the  same  time. 


SOUPS.  251 

(229).  CONSOMME  A  LA  DUB  AERY  (Consomme  a  la  Dubarry). 

A  garnishing  of  timbales  of  mushrooms  prepared  as  follows:  half  a  pint  of  mushroom  puree, 
half  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  eight  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg;  season  with  salt  and 
nutmeg  and  fill  with  this  some  low  and  plain,  buttered  tartlet  molds,  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven, 
unmold,  and  set  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  some  semolina  quenelles,  serve  the  garnishing 
separately  with  a  soup  tureen  full  of  game  consomme  and  crusts  of  bread,  five-eighths  by  one-eighth 
of  an  inch,  sprinkled  over  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

Semolina  Quenelles. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  beaten  to  a  cream  with  eight  raw 
egg-yolks,  mixing  them  in  gradually,  add  to  it  seven  ounces  of  semolina,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
and  with  this  preparation  make  some  small  quenelles  with  coffeespoons;  poach  them  slowly  for 
thirty  minutes.  They  should  swell  up  to  twice  their  original  size. 

(230).  CONSOMME  A  LA  DUCHESS  (Consomme"  a  la  Duchesse). 

The  garnishing  for  this  consomme  is  composed  as  follows:  prepare  some  bread-crumb  croutons 
half  an  inch  thick  by  five-eighths  in  length,  slit  them  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife  at  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  from  the  edge  all  around;  stand  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  pour  over  some  melted  butter 
and  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  remove,  lift  off  the  covers,  scoop  out  the  inside  crumbs.  Fry  a  little  finely 
chopped  onion  in  butter,  dilute  with  some  bechamel  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg; 
add  the  same  amount  of  finely  chopped  lobster  meat,  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream,  and  a  little 
nutmeg;  with  this  preparation  fill  the  crusts,  cover  the  tops  with  quenelle  forcemeat  finished  with 
lobster  butter  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven,  then  dress.  Serve  some  consomme  in  a  separate  soup 
tureen  containing  rice,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme,  and  small  green  peas,  cooked  English 
style  (No.  2742).  The  croustades  to  be  served  separately  at  the  same  time  as  the  consomme. 

(231).  CONSOMME  A  L'IMPERATRICE  (Consomme"  a  I'lmperatrice). 

For  garnishing,  have  quenelles  half-spherical  shape,  decorated  with  truffles  and  filled  with  a 
<:ream  forcemeat,  then  poached  in  a  slow  oven;  as  soon  as  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  unmold  and 
set  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme  and  some  rice  cooked  in  white  broth,  some  very 
small  fresh  green  peas  and  rounds  of  red  carrots,  blanched  and  cooked  in  broth;  serve  separately 
a  soup  tureen  of  chicken  consomme. 

(232).  CONSOMME.  A  LA  FLORENTINE  (Consomme"  a  la  Florentine). 

Make  a  garnishing  of  small  stars  cut  from  carrots  each  one  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter 
by  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  blanch  them  in  boiling,  salted  water,  then  finish  to  cook 
in  consomme;  have  also  inch  diameter  rings  made  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62),  colored  with 
spinach  green  laid  through  a  pocket  on  buttered  tins,  then  poached  in  boiling,  salted  water;  some 
rounds  cut  from  turnips  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  blanched,  cooked  in  consomme  and  reduced  to  a  glaze;  when  the  liquid  has  all  evap- 
orated the  turnips  should  be  done.  Serve  these  garnishings  with  a  little  consomme  and  at  the 
same  time  a  soup  tureen  of  hot  consomme. 

(233).  CONSOMME  A  LA  FRANKLYN  (Consomme  a  la  Franklyn). 

The  Garnishing. — Cut  out  some  rounds  with  a  three-sixteenth  inch  tube  from  some  slices  of 
carrots  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  the  reddest  part.  Trim  some  slices  of  turnip  the  same, 
and  punch  out  the  same  quantity  of  pieces  as  of  carrot,  using  the  same  tube,  and  cook  them  in 
consomme  with  a  little  sugar;  also  cook  some  string  beans  cut  lozenge-shape  in  salted  water  and 
afterward  drain  all  well.  Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137);  garnish  them  to  three- 
quarters  of  their  height  with  the  vegetables,  blending  well  the  colors,  and  fill  up  the  molds  with  a 
preparation  made  from  a  pint  of  cream,  eight  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  salt  and  nutmeg,  strained 
through  a  sieve.  Set  these  molds  in  a  stewpan,  with  boiling  water  to  cover  half  their  height,  and 
push  them  into  a  slack  oven;  when  the  preparation  is  poached  remove  them  from  the  oven  and  set 
them  away  to  cool.  Unmold  them  and  trim  off  the  tops;  then  cut  them  through  the  center  crosswise, 
and  place  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme;  also  have  pearl  barley  blanched  and 
cooked  in  consomme;  make  some  stars  with  bits  of  rolled-out  puffed  paste,  a  sixteenth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  and  baked  in  an  almost  cold  oven,  so  that  they  remain  white,  these  to  be  served 
on  a  plate  apart.  Serve  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme  at  the  same  time  as  the  garnishing,  and  allow 
three  stars  to  each  plate  of  soup. 


252  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(234)  CONSOMME  A  LA  GKAMMONT  (OonsommS  a  la  Grammont), 

For  the  Garnishing.  —  A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  filbert  nuts,  pounded  with  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
when  reduced  to  a  paste,  place  this  puree  into  a  bowl  with  half  a  pint  of  supreme  sauce  (No.  547), 
and  ten  whites  of  eggs;  season,  press  through  a  sieve  and  then  set  the  preparation  into  buttered 
timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137),  lay  them  in  a  stewpan,  one  beside  the  other,  with  sufficient 
boiling  water  to  cover  half  the  height  of  the  mold,  then  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  unmold,  and 
cut  them  in  two  across  the  center;  arrange  them  in  a  deep  dish  or  vegetable  dish;  besprinkle 
them  with  a  little  consomme  and  have  also  game  quenelles  molded  in  molds,  the  size  and  shape 
of  half  a  bird's  egg  cut  lengthwise;  in  order  to  make  these  quenelles,  mix  an  equal  quantity  of 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  with  game  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  turnips  cut  into  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  balls,  using  either  a  vegetable  or  root  spoon,  then  blanch  and  cook  them  ir 
white  consomme. 

(235).  CONSOMME  A  LA  HONGEOISE  (Consonant  k  la  Hongroise). 

lor  this  consomme  make  some  of  the  following  biscuits:  beat  twelve  egg-  yolks  in  a  vessel, 
whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them  lightly  with  the  yolks;  also  four  ounces  of  sifted 
flour  and  two  ounces  of  grated  parmesan;  season  with  pepper,  nutmeg  and  powdered  parmesan^ 
spread  this  evenly  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  keeping  it  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cook 
in  a  slack  oven.  Detach  the  paper,  and  cut  the  biscuit  up  into  lozenges  an  inch  and  a  half  long 
by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  width.  Besides  this,  prepare  another  garnishing  with  half  a  pint 
of  onion  puree  and  the  same  quantity  of  cream,  six  egg-whites,  salt,  paprika  and  nutmeg;  with 
this  fill  some  timbale  molds  (No.  4,  Fig.  137),  stand  them  in  a  sautoire,  with  boiling  water,  to  half 
their  height  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven;  unmold,  and  divide  in  two,  longitudinally.  Make  some 
small  potato  quenelles  in  the  shape  of  a  three-eighth  of  an  inch  ball;  poach  them  in  boiling 
salted  water.  Place  the  timbales  and  the  quenelles  in  a  vegetable  dish,  cover  with  consomme  and 
serve  the  biscuits  separately  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 

Potato  Quenelles.  —  Put  ten  ounces  of  puree  of  potatoes  in  a  saucepan  and  dry  thoroughly, 
working  continuously  to  avoid  burning.  When  it  detaches  from  the  pan,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of 
butter;  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  add  four  raw  egg  -yolks  and  mix  in  gradually  two  ounces  of 
pate  a  chou  (No.  132). 

(236).  CONSOMME  A  LA  LAGUIPIERRE  (Consomme"  a  la  Laguipierre). 

For  Garnishing.—  Butter  some  small  molds,  shaped  like  small  half  pigeon's  eggs;  fill  these 
with  a  game  mousse,  made  of  any  seasonable  game;  set  them  on  tin  sheets;  poach  in  a  slack  oven, 
unmold,  and  serve  them  in  a  separate  vegetable  dish,  adding  some  oval  shaped  chicken  quenelles, 
laid  on  a  buttered  tin  through  a  bag,  and  poached  in  a  little  boiling  water  in  a  slow  oven.  Serve 
separately  small  one-quarter  inch  square  crusts  made  of  twelve  turns  of  puff  paste  or  trimmings 
and  baked  white  in  a  very  slow  oven. 


(237).  CONSOMME  A  LA  NOAILLES  (Oonsommg  a  la  Noailles). 

A  garnishing  made  of  artichoke  bottoms,  two  inches  in  diameter;  remove  the  centers,  using 
a  half  inch  tube  for  the  purpose,  then  divide  the  rest  into  sixteen  equal  sized  pieces,  and  pare 
them  nicely;  put  them  into  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme,  also  some  consistent  Eoyal 
garnishing  (No.  241),  cut  into  quarter  of  an  inch  squares.  Have  also  round  timbales  made  of 
game,  hare,  or  leveret,  or  any  other  seasonable  game;  half  a  pint  of  game  puree,  half  a  pint  of 
espagnole  sauce  with  tomatoes  (No.  414);  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  five  whole  or  twelve  yolks; 
butter  the  insides  of  the  molds,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  and  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven; 
when  firm  to  the  touch,  unmold  and  set  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  the  royal  cream  cut  in 
squares,  and  the  artichoke  bottoms.  Serve  very  hot,  and  at  the  same  time  send  a  soup  tureen  of 
game  consomme  slightly  thickened  with  arrowroot;  adding  just  when  ready  to  serve  a  little  good 
Xeres  or  Madeira  wine. 

(238).  CONSOMME  A  LA  PLUMEREY  (Consomm^klaPlumerey), 

For  the  Garnishing.  —  Have  some  lettuce  soaked  in  cold  water,  then  washed  in  several  waters 
to  remove  all  the  adhering  sand,  blanch  in  plenty  of  water,  cool  off,  and  press  out  all  the 
liquid,  bend  the  leaves  over,  one  third  of  their  length  at  the  top,  trim  the  stalks  nicely,  braize 
them  for  one  hour  and  serve  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  after  dividing  them  in  two,  lengthwise. 
Have  half  a  pint  of  puree  of  duck;  the  same  quantity  of  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  half  a  pint  of 


SOUPS.  253 

bouillon,  twelve  raw  egg-yolks,  and  two  whole  eggs,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  then 
press  it  through  a  tammy,  and  fill  some  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137,),  with  this 
preparation;  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  unmold,  cut  in  two  crosswise,  and  add  them  to  the 
lettuce.  Crusts  of  bread  five-eighths  of  an  inch  square  by  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  sprinkled  over 
with  butter,  and  browned  in  the  oven;  serve  these  separately;  send  to  the  table  at  the  same  time  a 
tureen  of  chicken  consomme;  serve  in  each  plate,  half  a  lettuce,  and  one  slice  or  half  a  timbale, 
pour  over  some  consomme  and  add  three  croutons  for  each  person. 

(239).  CONSOMME  PRINTANIER  WITH  QUENELLES  (Consomme  Printanier  aux  Quenelles). 

Put  two  quarts  of  clarified  consomme  on  to  boil.  Prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  tender 
carrots,  turnips,  celery  roots,  cucumbers,  asparagus  tops,  string  beans  cut  lozenge-shape,  also 
small  flowerets  of  cauliflower;  cut  the  roots  either  olive  or  ball-shape,  using  a  vegetable-spoon, 
blanch  them  in  salted  water,  then  let  fall  to  a  glaze  several  times  in  a  little  broth  until  they 
are  cooked,  then  put  them  as  soon  as  done  into  the  soup  tureen,  adding  the  cauliflower,  asparagus 
and  some  green  peas  previously  boiled  in  salted  water.  Besprinkle  this  garnishing  with  a  pinch  of 
sugar,  pour  the  broth  over,  and  finish  with  small  quenelles,  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
having  a  quarter  of  the  quantity  of  the  other  garnishing.  Serve  the  soup  with  slices  of  toasted 
bread  instead  of  the  quenelles;  when  needed  for  a  plain  printanier,  and  for  a  consomme  printanier 
royale,  employ  the  same  garnishings,  adding  slices  of  timbales  royale  (No.  241). 

(240).  CONSOMME  A  LA  REMUSAT  (ConsommS  a  la  Remusat). 

Mince  up  fine  one  small  white  onion,  one  carrot  and  one  turnip,  half  a  celery-knob,  and  the 
white  part  of  a  leek;  fry  these  very  slowly  with  some  butter,  season,  and  moisten  with  a  little 
broth,  then  cook  them  covered,  letting  the  liquid  fall  several  times  to  a  glaze,  and  until  the 
vegetables  are  well  done;  press  them  through  a  tammy,  and  put  this  puree  into  a  bowl.  For  one 
pint,  add  ten  raw  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  one,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  salt  and 
nutmeg;  pour  this  preparation  into  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  4,  Fig.  137)  and  poach  by 
putting  them  into  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  half  their  height.  When  done  cut  each  timbale 
in  two  through  the  center  crossways  and  place  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  some  small  chicken 
forcemeat  quenelles,  colored  white,  red  and  green,  and  pushed  through  a  cornet  on  a  baking 
sheet  into  the  shape  of  beads,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  having  the  same  quantity  of  each 
color,  and  poach  them  in  boiling  salted  water;  drain  them,  and  add  them  to  the  slices  of  timbale; 
serve  separately  and  at  the  same  time  a  soup  tureen  of  chicken  consomme. 

(241).  CONSOMME  A  LA  ROYAL  (Oonsomm6  a  la  Royale). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137),  then  fill  them  with  the  following  preparation, 
mix  well  one  pint  of  cream,  eight  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  salt  and  nutmeg;  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  fill  up  the  timbales,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  reaching  to  half  their 
height,  and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  until  firm  to  the  touch.  Remove  them  from  the  oven, 
let  get  partially  cold,  then  unmold,  and  cut  them  crosswise  through  the  center;  put  them  into  a 
separate  vegetable  dish  with  some  white  of  chicken,  mushrooms  and  truffles  cut  into  small  pieces 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  square  by  five-eighths  long.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  soup  tureen  of 
chicken  consomme. 

(242).  CONSOMME  A  LA  SEVIGNE  (Consomm<§  a  la  Sevign6). 

For  the  garnishing,  butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137),  and  fill  them  with  the  following 
preparation :  one  pint  of  the  puree  of  the  white  of  chicken  made  with  equal  parts  of  chicken  and  rice, 
cooked  in  consomme,  the  whole  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  moistened  with  one  gill  of  supreme 
sauce  (No.  547),  eight  egg-yolks,  and  one  gill  of  cream,  seasoning  with  salt  and  nutmeg.  Set  the 
timbales  in  a  sautoire  with  boiling  water  reaching  to  half  their  height,  and  poach  them  in  a  slack 
oven;  then  let  get  partially  cold,  and  unmold;  and  cut  them  crosswise  through  the  center.  Lay 
them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  good  consomme  and  some  boiled  green  peas,  serve  separately, 
but  at  the  same  time,  a  soup  tureen  of  chicken  consomme. 

(243).  CONSOMME  A  LA  SOUVERAINE  (Consomm6  I  la  Souveraine). 

A  garnishing  of  timbales.  Make  a  preparation  with  one  pint  of  mushroom  pure"e,  two  gills  of 
espagnole  sauce  with  essence  of  game  (No.  414),  ten  egg-yolks,  salt,  red  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  fill 
some  dome-shaped  molds  with  this,  and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  placing  the  molds  in  a  stew- 


254  THE    EPICUREAN. 


pan  with  boiling  water  reaching  to  half  their  height;  when  done,  which  means  firm  to  the  touch, 
unmold  them,  and  put  them  into  a  vegetable  dish  with  some  consomme,  also  some  turnips  cut 
into  triangles,  half  an  inch  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme, 
squares  of  the  red  part  of  carrot  cut  the  same  thickness,  blanched  and  cooked  with  consomme;  some 
artichoke  bottoms  cut  into  quarter  of  an  inch  squares,  and  half  inch  round  pieces  of  blanched 
lettuce  leaves. 

(244),  CONSOMME  WITH  SWALLOWS'  NESTS  AND  CHINESE  BIRDS'  NEST  SOUP  (Consomme 
aux  nids  d'Hirondelles  de  Chine,  et  Potage  aux  nids  d'Hirondelles). 

A  Garnishing. — Salanga  from  the  Philippine  Islands;  these  swallows  build  their  nests  in  the 
rocks  on  the  seashore.  The  nests  greatly  resemble  shells  and  are  formed  of  a  transparent,  yellow- 
ish material:  certain  naturalists  affirm  that  they  are  the  spawn  of  fish  picked  up  from  the  ocean. 
For  twelve  persons,  put  six  swallows1  nests  to  soak  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours;  drain  them  and 
clean  them  carefully,  removing  with  a  coarse  needle  all  the  bits  of  feathers,  and  small,  almost 
imperceptible  black  spots  found  adhering  to  the  nest.  Wash  them  well  in  several  waters,  then  lay 
them  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  them  with  white  broth;  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  then  set  it  on  one  side, 
and  leave  it  in  the  same  degree  of  heat,  only  it  should  not  boil;  drain  the  nests,  put  them  in  a 
soup  tureen,  and  pour  over  an  excellent  chicken  consomme.  Swallows'  nests  can  be  obtained  all 
the  year  round,  the  price  varying  according  to  their  rarity. 

Chinese  Bird's  Nest  Soup. — The  Chinese  in  New  York  prepare  this  soup  in  the  following 
way:  For  each  person  soak  about  half  an  ounce  of  swallows'  nests  for  four  hours  in  cold  water,  then 
drain.  Place  a  young  fowl  in  a  soup  pot,  cover  with  water  and  let  boil,  add  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley 
and  salt,  boil  slowly  and  when  the  fowl  is  done,  take  it  out  and  strain  the  broth,  skimming  off  all 
the  fat.  Cook  the  birds1  nests  in  some  of  this  broth,  take  it  from  the  fire  at  the  first  boil,  cover 
well  and  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie,  to  it  add  some  lean  ham  cut  in  thin  strips.  Remove  all  the  fat 
from  the  broth,  strain  it  over  the  nests  and  put  it  back  on  the  fire  until  it  almost  attains  boiling 
point,  now  add  the  cooked  chicken  meat,  free  of  fat,  nerves  or  skin  and  cut  up  into  quarter  inch 
dice;  season  to  taste  and  serve. 

(245).  CREAM  SOUPS  (Potages  Creme.). 

I  believe  it  to  be  more  advisable  to  select  fresh  vegetables  for  making  cream  soups,  and  to  thicken 
them  with  raw  egg  yolks,  butter  and  cream.  The  flavor  of  the  fresh  vegetables  combined  with 
the  velvety  liaison,  helps  to  make  these  thick  soups  highly  estimated,  even  were  the  cream  and  eggs 
to  be  suppressed.  Purees  can  be  made  of  these  creams,  by  finishing  them  as  indicated  in  the  puree 
soups.  For  Lenten  cream  soups,  moisten  them  with  a  vegetable  stock  instead  of  broth,  and  use 
lean  bechamel,  in  the  place  of  veloute.  Cream  soups  will  be  improved  by  passing  them  through  a 
tammy. 

(246),  CREAM  OF  ARTICHOKES,  MORLAISIAN  (Oreme  d'  Artichauts  Morlaisienne.) 
Trim  well  some  artichoke  bottoms  so  that  all  the  green  part  of  the  leaves  be  removed;  mince 
up  two  pounds  of  this,  blanch  and  drain  them.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and 
when  very  hot,  set  in  the  artichokes  and  fry  them  without  browning;  moisten  with  two  quarts  ot 
broth;  cover  the  saucepan,  and  let  boil  slowly  until  the  artichokes  are  done,  then  drain  and  mash 
them  in  a  mortar;  and  pass  the  puree  through  a  fine  sieve;  put  it  back  into  a  saucepan,  and  dilute 
it  with  its  own  broth,  adding  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  con- 
constantly,  bearing  on  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  with  a  spatula;  let  boil  up  once,  then  remove 
all  the  fat;  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream 
and  butter.  The  quantity  of  liaison  for  each  quart  of  this  soup,  is  two  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of 
cream,  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Serve  separately  some  Savarin  croutons,  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
square,  and  dried  in  the  oven. 

(247).  CREAM  OF  ASPARAGUS  A  LA  ST.  VALLIER  (Creme  d'Asperges  a  la  St.  Vallier). 

Mince  up  fine,  five  medium-sized  onions,  throw  them  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  let  them 
boil  for  five  minutes,  then  drain,  and  fry  them  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  without 
coloring;  add  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  fry  slowly  for  several  minutes, 
then  put  in  with  them  two  pounds  of  green  and  tender  asparagus,  cut  in  one-inch  length  pieces, 
washed  several  times,  and  blanched  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling,  salted  water.  Moisten  with  two 


SOUPS.  255 

quarts  of  broth,  and  when  the  asparagus  is  done,  drain  it  off,  and  mash  it  in  a  mortar 
diluting  it  with  its  own  broth;  pass  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  the  puree  into  a  saucepan, 
to  heat;  season  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  after  it  begins  to  boil,  remove  all  the  fat 
arising  to  the  surface;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  soup  with  raw  egg-yolks,  diluted  in 
cream,  and  incorporate  therein  some  fine  butter.  Serve  in  a  soup  tureen  with  a  garnishing  of 
green  peas  and  small  quenelles,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  laid  through  a  cornet  on  a 
buttered  pan,  and  poached  in  some  boiling  salted  water,  poured  into  the  pan;  when  done,  drain 
them,  and  add  them  to  the  soup. 

(248).  OEEAM   OF  ASPARAGUS  WITH  CROUTONS  SOUFFLES  OR  ASPARAGUS  TOPS  (Creme 

d'Asperges  aux  Croutons  Souffle's  ou  aux  pointes  d'Asperges). 

Bend  some  small  green  asparagus,  beginning  at  the  root  end,  so  as  to  break  it  off,  keeping 
only  the  tender  parts  (two  pounds);  cut  into  one  inch  length  pieces,  wash  well,  changing 
the  water  several  times,  then  drain  and  throw  into  boiling,  salted  water,  continue  the  boiling 
for  ten  minutes,  then  drain.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan;  when  very  hot 
add  the  asparagus,  and  fry  colorless  on  a  quick  fire;  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  and 
when  done,  drain  and  mash;  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415) 
to  the  broth,  color  it  with  some  spinach  green  or  Breton  vegetable  coloring,  season  with  salt, 
sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  just  when  serving  thicken  the  soup  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in 
cream,  and  work  in  two  ounces  of  butter  (No.  175).  Serve  separately  some  croutons  souffles 
made  with  pate  a  chou  (No.  132)  rolled  in  strings  and  cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  lengths; 
these  pieces  to  be  rolled  in  flour,  then  rolled  around  in  a  sieve  to  make  them  round.  Fry  in  hot 
fat ;  or  asparagus  tops  may  be  served  as  a  garnishing  instead  of  the  croutons. 

(249).  CREAM  OP  BARLEY,  VIENNA  STYLE,  OR  OF  RICE  A  LA  CREMIEUX  (Oreme  d'Orge  a 

la  Viennoise,  ou  de  Riz  a  la  Ore"mieux). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  when  very  hot,  add  four  ounces  of  well  cleaned 
pearl  barley;  heat  it,  then  moisten  with  four  quarts  of  broth;  cover  the  saucepan,  and  cook  the 
barley  slowly  for  three  hours,  or  more,  until  it  yields  easily  to  the  pressure  of  the  finger,  then 
drain  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  diluting  it  with  its  own  stock,  afterward  straining  through  a  sieve 
or  tammy.  Return  it  to  the  fire,  and  in  case  it  should  be  too  thick  add  more  of  the  broth;  stir  con- 
tinually with  a  spatula,  bearing  on  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  until  the  soup  is  ready  to  boil; 
season  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  add  the  ^thickening  to  the  soup,  stirring  it  in  well  until 
all  the  butter  is  melted  (No.  175). 

For  Cream  of  Rice  a  la  Cremieux. — Pound  or  mash  well  in  a  mortar,  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
bread-crumbs,  mixing  in  gradually  two  whole  eggs,  and  the  third  of  its  quantity  of  fine  butter; 
form  this  into  small,  round  cakes,  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  thick;  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  the  same  time  as  the  soup.  The  cream  of  rice 
is  prepared  exactly  the  same  way  as  the  barley,  the  only  difference  being  that  this  requires  less 
cooking  than  the  barley. 

(250).  CREAM  OF  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  (Oreme  de  Choux  de  Bruxelles). 
Blanch  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  ten  minutes,  two  pounds  of  well  cleaned  Brussels  sprouts, 
drain  and  fry  them  in  butter,  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  white  broth,  and  when  cooked, 
drain  them  into  a  mortar,  and  mash  them  to  a  paste;  dilute  this  puree  with  its  own  broth,  and 
should  it  be  too  thick,  add  some  more  white  broth,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  add 
one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415);  heat  all  up  without  boiling,  and  thicken  with  two  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of 
cream  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  this  being  the  quantity  to  use  for  every  quart  of  soup.  Serve  separ- 
ately a  garnishing  of  brioche  croutons  (No.  51),  one  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  and  dried  in  the  oven. 

(251).  CREAM  OF  CAULIFLOWER,  BRISSON  (Oreme  de  Choux  fleurs  a  la  Brisson). 
Divide  the  cauliflower  into  several  parts,  clean  them  well,  pare  nicely,  and  remove  the  hearts; 
it  will  require  two  pounds  for  the  soup.  Cook  them  until  half  done  in  boiling,  salted  water,  then 
drain  and  fry  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  moistening  with  two  quarts  of  white  broth;  season 
with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  when  the  cauliflowers  are  done,  drain  off  the  broth,  and 
mash  in  a  mortar  to  reduce  to  a  paste;  dilute  this  with  its  own  broth,  add  one  pint  of  veloute 
(No.  415),  and  if  the  puree  be  too  thick,  then  add  more  white  broth.  Set  it  on  the  fire  to  heat 
without  boiling,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  it  with  cream,  raw  egg-yolks  and  butter 
(No.  175).  Serve  a  garnishing  of  croutons  souffles,  with  parmesan  cheese  made  as  explained  (No. 
248),  having  added  grated  parmesan  cheese  to  the  pasta 


256  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(252).  OREAM  OF  CELERY  OR  OARDOONS  A  LA  LIVINGSTONE  (Creme  de  Oeleri  ou  Oardons  I 

la  Livingstone), 

For  the  Celery,  remove  the  threads  covering  the  stalks;  have  two  pounds  of  very  white,  cut-up 
celery,  blanch  it  in  plenty  of  water,  and  cook  in  two  quarts  of  white  broth;  when  done,  drain  and 
mash  it  well  to  reduce  it  to  a  paste,  diluting  it  with  its  own  broth;  press  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
tammy,  add  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  some  more  broth  should  the  puree  be  too  thick; 
then  heat  the  soup  without  letting  it  boil,  seasoning  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Thicken  it  with 
egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter  (No.  175).  Serve  in  a  separate  tureen  a  marrow  quenelle  garnishing. 

Marrow  Quenelles. — Melt  half  a  pound  of  well  cleansed  marrow;  strain  into  a  cool  bowl 
through  a  fine  muslin;  beat  it  till  it  becomes  a  cream,  then  add  eight  egg-yolks  one  by  one, 
and  beat  again  until  thoroughly  incorporated,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  add  half  a  pound 
of  white  and  very  fresh  bread-crumbs;  divide  this  into  four  parts  and  form  these  into  strings  half 
an  inch  thick,  then  cut  them  across  to  have  each  one-half  an  inch  long;  roll  in  flour  and  poach  in 
boiling  water;  serve  with  the  soup.  The  cream  of  cardoons  is  made  in  exactly  the  same  way  as 
the  cream  of  celery. 

(253),  OREAM  OHIFFONNADE  WITH  CRUSTS  OR  OF  LEEKS  WITH  QUENELLES  (Creme 
Chiffonnade  aux  Oroutes  ou  de  Poireaux  aux  Quenelles). 

Prepare  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  lettuce  leaves,  eight  ounces  of  sorrel  leaves,  three  ounces  of 
water-cress,  and  one  ounce  of  chervil  leaves,  all  well  washed  in  several  waters,  and  cut  up  very 
fine.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  very  hot,  add  the  herbs,  and  allow 
them  to  fry  without  attaining  a  color,  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  veal  stock  or  white  broth, 
and  boil  for  one-half  hour,  adding  a  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  a  thickening  of  four  egg- 
yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  butter  for  each  quart  of  soup;  strain  through  a 
sieve,  and  season  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Serve  a  garnishing  of  round  shaped  bread 
crusts  seven-eighths  by  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  sprinkled  over  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

For  the  Cream  of  Leeks,  have  two  pounds  of  the  white  part  of  leeks,  prepared  and  finished 
as  for  the  chiffonnade,  but  instead  of  round  bread  croutons,  replace  these  by  a  garnishing  of 
chicken  quenelles  (No.  89). 

(254).  OREAM  OF  CUCUMBERS  A  LA  SHEPPARD  (Creme  de  Ooncombres  a  la  Sheppard). 

Peel  or  remove  the  green  skin  from  the  cucumbers,  mince  up  two  pounds  of  them,  blanch 
them  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain.  Heat  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan; 
when  very  hot,  add  the  cucumbers,  and  fry  them  colorless,  moistening  with  two  quarts  of  white 
broth;  boil  all  slowly  until  the  cucumbers  are  thoroughly  done,  and  then  drain  and  mash  them  in  a 
mortar;  thin  out  this  puree  with  its  own  broth,  and  if  still  too  thick,  add  some  more  white  broth, 
and  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy.  Add  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  season  with  salt, 
sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  heat  it  up  without  boiling;  remove  all  the  white  particles  arising  to  the 
surface,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter  (No.  175).  Pour  the  soup  very 
hot  into  a  tureen  with  a  good  white  of  chicken  garnishing  allowing  one  ounce  for  each 
quart,  and  cut  up  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares. 

(255).  CREAM  OF  GREEN  CORN  A  LA  HERMANN  (Creme  de  Mais  Vertes  k  la  Hermann). 

Boil  some  corn  on  the  cob  in  water  having  salt  and  butter  added  to  it;  drain,  then  cut  off  the 
tender  part  of  the  corn;  about  two  pounds  in  all.  Pound  this  in  a  mortar  with  thick  bechamel 
sauce  and  dilute  this  puree  with  white  broth.  Place  a  pound  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  60)  in  a 
deep  buttered  dish;  stand  it  in  a  sautoire  with  water  reaching  to  half  the  height  of  the  dish,  let 
boil  and  then  put  it  in  a  slack  oven  to  poach  the  forcemeat;  leave  it  to  cool,  then  pound  in  a  mor- 
tar adding  the  corn  puree,  and  enough  broth  to  obtain  a  not  too  thick  puree;  strain  through  a 
tammy,  heat  up  without  boiling,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  add,  to  thicken  the  soup,  egg- 
yolk  and  cream;  work  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Serve  separately  some  Compiegne  croutons 
browned  in  the  oven. 

(256).  OREAM  OF  GREEN  CORN  1  LA  MENDOOINO  (Creme  de  Mais  Vertes  k  la  Mendocino). 

Cook  the  corn  on  the  cob  in  salted  water,  adding  a  piece  of  butter;  when  done,  remove  the 
grains,  mash  them  in  a  mortar,  and  dilute  the  puree  with  a  quart  and  a  half  of  broth;  strain 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  set  it  into  a  saucepan;  heat  it  up  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  and 


SOUPS.  257 

season  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  soup  with  egg-yolks, 
cream  and  fine  crawfish  butter  (No.  573),  with  lemon  juice  added.  Serve  with  a  garnishing 
composed  of  shrimp  tails,  cut  in  small  pieces. 

(257),  OEEAM  OP  JEEUSALEM  AETIOHOZES  (Oreme  de  Topinambours). 
Peel  the  artichokes,  and  afterward  weigh  two  pounds  of  them,  and  mince  them  well.  (Jeru- 
salem artichokes  can  be  imitated  by  using  half  artichoke  bottoms,  and  half  sweet  potatoes.)  Mince 
up  one-quarter  of  a  pound  or  two  medium  onions;  fry  them  in  butter,  and  then  add  the  artichokes; 
fry  also.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  and  moisten  with 
two  quarts  of  white  broth.  Boil  and  cook  slowly  until  the  artichokes  are  easily  crushed;  then 
drain  and  mash  them;  increase  the  volume  of  the  pure"e  with  the  broth  the  artichokes  have  been 
cooked  in,  strain  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  heat  up  without  boiling;  just  when  ready  to  serve 
thicken  the  soup  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter  (No.  175).  A  garnishing  is  made  of 
artichoke  bottoms,  cut  into  one-quarter  of  inch  squares. 

(258),  OEEAM  OP  LETTUCE,  EOMAINE  OE  OHIOOOET  A  LA  EVEES  (Oreme  de  Laitue,  Eomaine 

ou  Ghicoree  a  la  Evers). 

Procure  two  pounds  of  lettuce,  romaine  or  chiccory,  and  proceed  exactly  the  same  for  either. 
Wash  them  in  several  waters  after  removing  the  greenish  leaves,  then  cook  them  in  boiling,  salted 
water,  until  the  hardest  parts  yield  under  the  pressure  of  the  finger,  then  drain  and  cool  them  off; 
squeeze  out  all  the  water,  and  chop  them  up  coarsely.  Put  into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter, 
and  when  very  hot,  add  the  lettuce  and  let  fry  for  a  few  minutes;  moisten  with  two  quarts  of 
broth,  then  boil  and  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  adding  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  strain 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  heat  it  up  again,  and  when  the  soup  is  near  boiling  point,  thicken  with 
egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter  (No.  175).  seasoning  with  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg. 

Garnishing. — Pound  in  a  mortar,  one-half  pound  of  bread-crumbs  with  two  whole  eggs,  add- 
ing them  in  gradually,  and  half  of  the  same  quantity  of  pate-a-choux  (No.  132),  roll  it  out  to  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  in  squares,  then  fry  in  clarified  butter. 

(259),  OEEAM  01  LIMA,  KIDNEY  OE  HOESE  BEANS  (Oreme  de  Haricots  de  Lima,  flageolets  ou 

Feves  de  Marais). 

The  manner  for  preparing  either  of  these  creams  is  exactly  the  same;  cook  till  half  done  in 
salted  water,  two  pounds  of  lima  beans.  Drain  them  and  fry  them  colorless  in  two  ounces  of  butter; 
moisten  with  two  quarts  of  white  broth,  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  then  cook  slowly 
until  thoroughly  done;  drain  them  and  mash  them  in  a  mortar,  moistening  with  two  and  a  half 
quarts  of  white  broth,  then  strain  this  puree  either  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy,  adding  to  it  one 
pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  return  it  to  the  fire,  let  heat  to  near  boiling,  then  despumate  well  all  the 
scum  and  grease  arising  to  the  surface,  and  thicken  it  with  egg-yelks,  cream,  and  fresh  butter 
(No.  175).  A  garnishing  of  bread  croutons  of  five-eighths  of  an  inch  square  by  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  sprinkled  over  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

(260).  OEEAM  OF  PEAS  A  LA  ST.  GEEMAIN  (Oreme  de  pois  a  la  St.  Germain), 
Throw  into  boiling,  salted  water,  two  pounds  of  medium-sized  peas,  and  boil  them  for  ten 
minutes  with  a  little  piece  of  mint;  drain  them,  then  put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
and  when  warm,  throw  in  the  peas,  and  let  them  fry  for  a  few  minutes;  moisten  with  white  broth, 
adding  a  few  lettuce  leaves,  about  four  ounces,  and  two  ounces  of  onions;  the  lettuce  to  be  cut  up 
fine,  and  the  onions  minced;  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  and  boil  until  the  peas  are 
thoroughly  cooked,  then  drain,  suppress  the  mint,  and  mash  them  in  a  mortar,  moistening  them 
with  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  white  broth.  Press  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  return  them  to 
the  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415);  should  the  puree  be  too  thick,  then  add  more  broth; 
warm  it  well  without  boiling,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter,  (No.  175). 
Pour  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen  with  some  chopped  up  chervil,  and  a  garnishing  of  extra  fine 
peas. 

(261).  OEEAM  OF  PEAS  WITH  MINT  (Or&me  de  pois  a  la  Menthe). 

Parboil  two  pounds  of  shelled  green  peas  until  partly  cooked;  then  drain  and  put  them  on  to 
fry  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  moisten  with  white  broth  and  add  half  a  pound  of  minced 
white  onions.  When  the  peas  are  entirely  cooked  drain  and  pound  them,  diluting  with  veloute 


258  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  the  same  broth  they  were  cooked  in;  rub  the  whole  through  a  tammy  and  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan; put  it  on  the  fire  and  heat  without  boiling.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve,  thicken  with  egg- 
yolks,  butter,  and  cream,  adding  a  few  mint  leaves  finely  chopped  and  as  garnishing  some  small 
chicken  quenelles  made  with  half  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat,  and  half  cream  forcemeat  laid 
through  a  pocket  on  a  buttered  baking  tin. 

(262).  OEEAM  OP  SOEKEL  WITH  STUFFED  EGGS  (Oreme  d'oseille  aux  (Eufs  Farcis). 

Pick  the  hard  stalks  from  the  sorrel,  wash  it  in  several  waters  to  free  it  from  all  the  adhering 
sand,  then  drain  and  press  it.  Weigh  two  pounds  of  this,  and  chop  it  up  fine;  put  four  ounces  of 
cutter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  hot,  add  the  chopped  sorrel  and  fry  it  colorless;  moisten  with  a 
quart  and  a  half  of  white  broth,  and  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415);  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and 
nutmeg;  then  put  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  slowly,  removing  the  butter  floating  on  the  t'op.  Strain  it 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  put  it  back  to  come  to  a  boiling  point  without  letting  it  boil,  and 
thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter  (No.  175),  adding  to  it  at  the  last  moment  some 
lettuce  chopped  up  and  cooked  in  consomme.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve  separately  a 
garnishing  of  hard  boiled,  stuffed  half  eggs. 

A  Garnishing  of  Stuffed  Half  Eggs. — Cut  lengthwise  in  two,  some  small  hard  boiled  eggs; 
remove  the  yolks,  and  fill  the  whites  with  chicken  forcemeat  and  cream,  mixing  in  with  it  chopped 
mushrooms,  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  and  fine  herbs;  let  the  stuffing  be  dome-shaped,  then  dust  over 
with  grated  parmesan;  lay  these  eggs  on  a  dish,  and  brown  them  nicely  in  the  oven.  Place  them 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  and  pass  it  around  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 

(263).  OEEAM  OF  SQUASH,  TUENIPS  OE  OAEEOTS  WITH  COMPIEGNE  CEOUTONS  (Oreme 
de  Oourges,  de  Navets  ou  de  Garottes  aux  Croutons  de  Compiegne). 

Peel  the  squash  and  mince  two  pounds  of  the  inside,  with  four  ounces  of  onions,  or  else  select 
young,  tender  turnips,  peel  and  mince  two  pounds  of  these,  or,  cut  some  carrots  so  as  to  have  two 
pounds  of  the  reddest  part;  the  turnips  and  carrots  should  be  parboiled.  Put  six  ounces  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan,  and  when  hot,  add  one  of  the  above  vegetables  chopped  very  fine,  and  after  it 
is  lightly  fried  without  coloring,  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  white  broth,  skim  and  continue 
to  boil  until  thoroughly  cooked,  then  drain,  mash  the  vegetable  to  reduce  it  to  a  paste,  and  dilute 
with  the  stock  it  was  boiled  in;  season'  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  if  too  thick  use  more 
broth;  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter.  Compiegne  croutons  (No.  51),  cut  in 
quarter  of  inch  squares,  and  dried  in  the  oven,  should  be  served  as  a  garnishing. 

Garnishing  for  Turnips. — Three  ounces  of  butter  worked  with  a  small  whip  until  perfectly 
white,  then  incorporate  slowly  into  it  two  egg-yolks,  two  spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  salt,  sugar  and 
nutmeg;  mix  in  with  this  three  whites  of  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  poach  in  a  slow  oven, 
in  some  buttered  dome-shaped  molds;  unmold  and  serve  separately  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 

Garnishing  for  Carrots. — Small  chicken  forcemeat  and  cream  quenelles,  laid  through  a  cornet 
on  a  buttered  pan  and  poached  in  boiling  water,  then  drained  and  served  with  the  soup. 

(264).  OEEAM  OF  STEING  BEANS  A  LA  VEFOUE  (Oreme  de  Haricots  Verts  a  la  VeTour). 

Clean  and  blanch  some  beans  in  boiling,  salted  water,  then  drain  them;  put  four  ounces  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  after  the  butter  is  warm,  throw  in  the  beans,  and  fry  them 
for  a  few  moments.  Moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  let  the  beans  cook,  then  drain,  and 
pound  them  in  a  mortar,  dilute  them  with  some  of  their  own  broth,  and  should  the  puree  be  too 
thick,  then  add  more  broth,  put  the  puree  back  into  a  saucepan  adding  one  quart  of  veloute  (No. 
415);  season  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  stir  well  while  bearing  the  spoon  on  to  the  bottom 
till  it  reaches  boiling  point,  but  be  careful  that  it  does  not  boil.  Thicken  with  egg-yolks,  butter 
and  cream.  Serve  separately  a  royal  cream  prepared  as  follows: 

A  royal  cream  (No.  241),  garnishing  poached  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  let  stand  till  cold, 
then  cut  it  into  small  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares  and  serve  with  the  soup. 

(265).  OEEAM  OP  SWEET  POTATOES  A  LA  GEEAED  (Oreme  de  Patates  a  la  Gerard). 

Have  two  pounds  of  sweet  potatoes  previously  steamed;  peel,  mince  and  fry  them  in  four 
ounces  of  butter,  moistening  with  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  white  broth;  cook  until  done,  then 
strain  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  diluting  the  puree  with  its  own  broth,  and  in  case  it  be  too 


SOUPS.  259 

thick,  add  some  more  white  broth  and  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415);  strain  the  soup  through  a  sieve 
or  tammy,  then  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and  heat  it  to  boiling  point  without  allowing  it  to  boil. 
Thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter,  using  two  egg-yolks,  two  gills  of  cream  and  two  ounces 
of  butter  for  each  quart. 

The  Garnishing  to  be  of  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs  pounded  in  a  mortar,  and 
mingling  with  it  gradually  two  eggs  and  a  third  of  its  volume  of  pate-a-choux  (No.  132);  roll  it  into 
small  balls,  three-sixteenths  of  a  inch  in  size,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  serving  them  the 
same  time  as  the  soup. 

(266).  OKEAM  OF  VEGETABLES  A  LA  BANVILLE  (Oreme  de  Legumes  a  la  Banville). 

Mince  four  ounces  of  leeks,  six  ounces  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  turnip-cabbage,  two  ounces 
of  celery,  four  ounces  of  turnips,  and  four  ounces  of  onions.  Place  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  hot,  add  to  it  the  finely  minced  vegetables  and  moisten  with 
two  quarts  of  white  broth:  boil,  skim  and  cook  slowly.  As  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  well  done, 
drain  them,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  diluting  the  puree  with  some  of  its  broth;  strain  through 
a  sieve  or  tammy,  heat  it  to  a  boiling  point  without  letting  it  boil,  then  thicken  with  egg-yolks, 
cream  and  fine  butter  (No.  175.) 

Garnishing,  Small  Buttered  Timbales  (No.  6,  Fig.  137)  filled  with  one  layer  of  finely  cooked 
chestnuts  and  one  layer  of  cooked  rice,  filling  them  up  with  royal  cream  (No.  241),  and  poach  in 
a  slack  oven;  unmold  and  serve  these  in  a  separate  tureen  with  a  little  consomme  poured  over. 

(267).  PUEEE  OF  CAPON  A  LA  JUSSIENNE  (Purge  de  chapona  la  Jussienne), 

Prepare  a  delicate  quenelle  forcemeat  as  for  No.  89;  put  a  pound  of  this  into  a  buttered  mold 
furnished  with  a  socket,  and  let  poach  by  placing  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water, 
to  half  its  height,  and  placing  it  on  the  fire;  at  the  first  boil  take  it  off,  and  set  it  in  a  very  slack 
oven  until  poached;  then  unmold,  and  let  get  cold.  Pound  this  preparation  in  a  mortar,  diluting 
it  with  two  quarts  of  broth  and  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415);  strain  through  a  sieve  or  tammy, 
and  heat  up  without  boiling;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  the  broth  well,  and  season  it  with  salt 
and  nutmeg,  adding  three  ounces  of  butter,  working  it  in  until  it  is  all  melted.  Pour  the  soup 
into  a  soup  tureen.  For  garnishing  have  some  rice  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  consomme, 
also  some  croutons  made  of  fragments  of  puff  paste  (No.  146),  cut  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square; 
they  should  be  cooked  in  a  very  slack  oven,  and  when  done,  served  separately. 

(268).  PUKEE  OF  CAEEOTS  A  LA  CRECY  (Purge  de  Garottes  a  la  Crgcy). 
Only  use  the  red  part  of  the  carrot  for  this  soup;  mince  up  two  pounds  of  red  carrots,  cutting 
them  with  a  knife  into  thin  lengthwise  slices.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
and  when  it  begins  to  heat,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  onions,  and  fry  for  one  instant;  then  add  the 
red  carrots,  and  continue  to  fry  slowly  without  letting  it  attain  a  color;  moisten  with  three  quarts 
of  broth,  salt;  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  celery,  and  bay  leaf,  and  boil  until  the  carrots  are  entirely 
done;  then  put  in  half  a  pound  of  rice  previously  blanched,  and  cooked  in  consomme;  drain,  and 
mash  the  carrots  and  rice.  Moisten  this  puree  with  the  broth,  and  if  it  be  too  thick  add  some 
white  broth  to  it;  strain  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  return  it  to  a  clean  saucepan;  heat  it  to  a 
boiling  point,  stirring  continually,  and  bearing  on  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  with  the  spoon, 
to  prevent  the  puree  from  adhering;  let  to  boil  slowly  on  one  side  of  the  saucepan  only, 
for  twenty  minutes,  removing  all  the  scum  and  fat  from  the  surface  as  quickly  as  it  appears; 
season  with  salt,  and  sugar  and  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  gradually  into  it  two  ounces  of  fine 
butter,  stirring  the  soup  with  a  spoon  until  all  the  butter  melts,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  small 
quarter  inch  squares  of  bread-crumbs  fried  in  butter.  Rice,  noodles,  and  Japanese  pearls  can 
also  be  served  as  garnishings  for  Crecy  soup. 

(269).  PUKEE  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  DUFFEEIN  (Purge  de  poulet  a  la  Dufferin), 
Take  a  good  three  pound  chicken;  raise  the  fillets,  break  up  the  bones  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  with  three  quarts  of  broth;  leave  to  boil  for  an  hour,  then  strain  the  liquid  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Saute  the  removed  fillets,  then  pound  them  with  four  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  and  mix 
in  slowly  a  pint  of  veloute;  also  two  quarts  of  stock.  Strain  the  puree  through  a  tammy,  heat  up 
without  letting  it  boil,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  in  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
working  it  well  into  the  soup.  Serve  separately  a  garnishing  of  pearl  barley,  and  puff  paste 
croutons  cooked -white,  meaning  cooked  in  a  very  slack  oven. 


260  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(270).  PUEEE  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  EEINE  (Purge  de  Poulet  a  la  Reine), 

For  Twelve  Persons. — Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  minced  carrots 
and  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  little  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  place  on  top  one 
chicken,  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth,  and  let  it  reduce  slowly  but  entirely;  moisten  again 
with  two  quarts  of  broth,  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil,  then  skim  it  off  and  continue  boiling  until 
the  chicken  is  thoroughly  cooked.  Remove  all  the  meat  from  the  chicken  without  any  skin  or  fat, 
and  pound  this  with  half  a  pound  of  very  fresh  bread-crumbs,  season  it  with  salt  and  nutmeg, 
then  moisten  with  the  stock,  rub  this  through  a  tammy,  and  heat  it  up  without  boiling,  adding  to 
it  an  almond-milk  prepared  as  follows:  Pound  one  ounce  of  freshly  peeled  almonds,  add  gradually 
to  it  one  pint  of  milk  and  press  this  forcibly  through  a  napkin.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  put 
into  the  soup  three  ounces  of  fine  butter,  stirring  it  continually  until  thoroughly  melted.  Serve 
the  soup  with  a  garnishing  of  small  quenelles,  bead-shaped,  of  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  size, 
made  of  quenelle  and  cream  forcemeats  (Nos.  75,  89),  half  and  half  of  each,  and  laid  through  a 
cornet  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  then  poached  in  boiling  water. 

(271),  PUEEE  OP  ENGLISH  SNIPE,  PLOVEE  OE  WOODCOCK  A  LA  THEO  (Purge  de  Bgcassines, 

Pluviers  ou  brasses  a  la  Thgo). 

Remove  the  fillets  from  eight  English  snipe;  with  half  of  them  make  a  quenelle  forcemeat 
the  same  as  explained  for  game  forcemeat  (No.  62),  let  the  quenelles  be  made  either  with  a  tea- 
spoon or  else  pushed  through  a  pocket  on  a  buttered  sheet,  in  shapes  of  oval  olives,  and  then 
poach  them  in  boiling  salted  water;  these  quenelles  are  to  be  used  for  the  garnishing.  Put  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  chopped  onions;  fry  them  colorless,  add  the 
remaining  fillets  and  carcasses,  and  when  all  is  well  browned,  moisten  with  three  quarts  of  broth 
and  a  quart  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  let  cook  for  thirty  minutes,  and  despumate,  which 
means  to  boil  only  on  one  side  of  the  saucepan,  and  remove  with  a  spoon  all  the  fat  and 
scum  arising  to  the  surface;  then  drain  and  remove  most  of  the  bones.  Pound  the  carcasses  and 
meats,  dilute  them  with  the  broth,  season  and  strain  through  a  colander  and  afterward  through  a 
tammy;  thicken  when  ready  to  serve  with  four  ounces  of  butter  divided  into  small  pats,  incor- 
porating them  in  with  a  whip,  until  they  are  entirely  melted;  lay  the  quenelles  in  a  soup  tureen, 
and  pour  the  very  hot  puree  over. 

(272),  PUEEE  OF  GEOUSE  A  LA  MANHATTAN  (Purge  de  Terras  a  la  Manhattan),      . 

Roast  three  grouse  for  twenty  minutes;  cut  o™  the  fillets  and  break  up  the  bones,  putting  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  four  quarts  of  broth,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf,  half 
a  pound  of  carrots,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  and  let  simmer  for  one  hour.  Pound  the  fillets, 
add  to  it  the  same  quantity  of  puree  of  sweet  potatoes,  and  dilute  all  with  the  broth  strained 
through  a  fine  tammy,  then  return  it  to  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  to  heat  without  boiling;  season  and 
stir  into  it  just  when  ready  to  serve  four  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Make  a  garnishing  with  one  pint 
of  the  soup;  mix  into  a  half  a  pint  of  cream,  eight  yolks  and  two  whole  eggs,  and  poach  this  in 
small  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137),  and  cut  crosswise  before  being  put  into  the  puree. 

(273),  PUEEE  OF  LENTILS,  OHANTILLT  (Purge  de  Lentilles  Ohantilly), 

TJnsalt  a  pig's  head  for  twelve  hours,  partially  cook  it ;  put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  a  half 
quarts  of  picked  and  washed  lentils,  add  the  half  pig's  head,  and  moisten  with  four  quarts  of  cold 
water  to  cover  all  well,  then  add  two  carrots  cut  in  four  lengthwise,  four  onions,  one  with  two  cloves 
in  it,  half  a  pound  of  well  pared  raw  ham,  and  boil  slowly  until  all  be  thoroughly  cooked,  then  take 
out  the  half  head,  bone  it,  remove  all  the  fat,  and  put  it  under  a  weight  to  reduce  it  to  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  thick;  drain  the  lentils,  suppress  the  vegetables  and  ham,  and  pound  the  lentils, 
diluting  them  with  their  own  broth.  Strain  all  through  a  sieve,  add  two  quarts  of  bechamel  (No. 
409),  and  heat  it  up  without  boiling;  skim  and  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  into  it  a  good 
piece  of  fine  butter.  Cut  the  gelatinous  parts  of  the  head  into  dice,  and  serve  them  with  the  soup 
as  a  garnishing,  also  some  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(274).  PUEEE  OF  LEVEEET  OE  YOUNG  EABBIT,  ST,  JAMES  (Purge  de  Levraut  ou  Lapereau 

St.  James). 

Remove  all  the  bones  from  the  leverets  or  young  rabbits,  break  up  the  carcasses,  and  fry  them 
in  butter  with  minced  onions,  carrots  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and 


SOUPS.  261 

celery,  moisten  with  four  quarts  of  broth,  let  the  liquid  boil  up,  then  skim,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  cloves,  continue  to  boil  for  one  hour,  then  strain  through  a  sieve.  Cut  up  the  meat  in 
three  quarter  inch  squares;  fry  these  in  butter  with  two  ounces  of  lean  ham,  adding  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  mix  all  well  together,  then  moisten  with  the  above  stock,  let  boil  and  finish 
cooking.  When  the  meats  are  well  done,  drain  them  off,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  diluting 
this  puree  with  the  stock,  then  press  it  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  the  latter  being  preferable,  for  all 
purees  are  improved  by  being  pressed  through  a  tammy,  as  it  removes  any  grains  that  may  be  in  them. 
Heat  the  soup  without  boiling,  season  to  taste,  and  incorporate  into  it  a  piece  of  good  butter  weighing 
a  quarter  of  a  pound,  stirring  it  sharply  with  a  spoon  till  thoroughly  melted.  Add  a  garnishing 
composed  of  small  game  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  timbales,  the  size  and  shape  of  half  a 
pigeon's  egg,  poached  in  a  slack  oven  and  served  in  the  soup. 

(275).  PUEEE  OF  OATMEAL  TOULOUSAINE  (Purge  d'Avenas  Toulousaine), 
Put  three  pints  of  water  into  a  saucepan;  when  it  boils,  drop  into  it  like  rain,  six  ounces  of 
catmeal  coarsely  ground,  salt  and  one  ounce  of  butter,  let  cook  for  three  hours,  dilute  it  with  three 
pints  of  white  broth,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  return  it  to  the  fire  stirring  it  continually,  and 
at  the  first  boil  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  boil  and  despumate  for  twenty-five 
minutes;  skim  all  the  fat,  season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  sugar,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incor- 
porate into  it  a  piece  of  fine  butter;  pour  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen  with  a  garnishing  of  bread 
croutons  an  inch  in  diameter  sprinkled  over  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven,  also  croutons 
made  of  firm  Royal  cream  (No.  241),  using  whites  of  eggs  instead  of  yolks,  poached  in  a  slack  oven, 
c.nd  cut  into  squares. 

(276).  PUKEE  OF  PAETEIDGES  OE  QUAILS  A  LA  FHENIN  (Pur&  de  Perdreanx  on  de  Cailles 

a  la  d'He"nin). 

Boast  some  partridges;  suppress  the  skin  and  bones,  and  pound  the  meat  with  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  two  gills  of  veloute  (No.  415)  for  each  partridge;  press  this  through  a  sieve  and  put  it 
into  a  bowl  with  one  raw  egg-yolk  and  a  litttle  nutmeg.  Put  on  the  fire  to  boil,  two  quarts  of 
thickened  game  stock;  add  to  it  the  fragments  of  birds  and  a  garnished  bouquet,  some  minced 
Oarrots  and  onions,  salt  and  nutmeg;  boil  on  one  side  of  the  saucepan  only  in  order  to  despumate 
for  one  hour,  then  remove  all  the  fat,  strain,  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan ;  at  the  first  boil  add 
toe  prepared  puree,  season  to  taste,  then  pour  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen,  after  straining  it  through 
a  fine  colander,  adding  a  garnishing  of  hulled  barley  and  some  small  game  quenelles. 

<277X  PUREE  OF  PIGEONS  OE  WILD  SQUABS  A  LA  WALESKI  (Purge  de  Pigeons  on  de  Pigeons 

Eamiers  a  la  Waleski), 

Infuse  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  Madeira  wine,  some  thyme,  marjoram,  basil,  cloves,  mace,  and 
pepper  corns.  Roast  four  pigeons,  remove  all  their  meat,  and  break  up  the  carcasses,  putting 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  quarter  ot 
a  pound  of  carrots,  and  two  ounces  of  celery,  all  finely  minced;  salt  properly,  and  let  boil  for  one 
hour,  then  strain  through  a  napkin,  and  return  it  to  a  clean  saucepan  to  boil  and  thicken  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  fecula  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water.  Pound  the  meat  from  the  birds  with  eight 
hard  boiled  egg-yolks  and  one  ounce  of  butter,  add  some  of  the  broth  to  this  puree  to  dissolve  it, 
then  strain  it  through  a  tammy,  heat  it  up  without  boiling,  and  add  to  it  the  Madeira  wine  infusion 
after  straining  it  through  a  napkin;  stir  in  when  ready  to  serve,  two  ounces  of  good  butter,  then 
pour  it  into  the  soup  tureen  and  serve  as  garnishing,  small  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  timbales 
iTc.  5,  cut  in  two  crosswise. 

(278).  PUEEE  OF  POTATOES  A  LA  BENTON  (Pnre"e  de  Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Benton). 
Mince  up  three  pounds  of  peeled  potatoes;  put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and 
\7iien  warm,  add  one  pound  of  the  white  part  of  leeks  minced,  and  fry  them  colorless;  then  add 
the  potatoes,  and  moisten  with  six  quarts  of  white  broth,  and  continue  to  boil  until  the  potatoes 
are  done,  and  break  easily  under  the  pressure  of  the  finger;  drain  and  rub  through  a  sieve 
\vith  the  broth,  and  some  white  broth  added;  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  put  in  one  pint  of 
vslcnte"  (No.  415);  return  this  to  the  fire,  and  stir  continually  till  boiling  point  is  reached,  then 
EUim  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  work  into  it  four  ounces  of  fine  butter,  stirring  well  the  soup 
until  all  the  butter  is  melted.  Serve  separately  round  croutons  three  quarters  of  an  inch,  and  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  buttered  and  browned  in  the  oven. 


262  THE    EPICTJIlEAlSr. 

(279),  PUREE  OF  PULLET  OK  GUINEA  POWL  A  LA  WASHBURN   (PurSe   de  Poularde  ou 

Pintade  a  la  Washburn). 

Roast  some  small  pullets  or  guinea  fowls,  remove  all  the  meat,  and  suppress  from  this  the  fat 
and  skin;  break  up  the  carcasses  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  minced  carrots,  leeks,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  bayleaf.  Cut  half  a  pound  of  breast  of  pork;  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  pork  and  fry  together  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  leeks,  carrots 
and  bunch  of  parsley,  also  the  carcasses;  moisten  with  six  quarts  of  beef  stock,  season  with  salt, 
pepper-corns  and  two  cloves,  and  boil  up  the  liquid,  skim  off  the  fat  and  continue  boiling  for  one 
hour,  then  strain  through  a  sieve.  Pound  the  meat  taken  from  the  pullets  or  guinea  fowl  with 
twelve  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  diluting  it  with  the  stock,  heat  it  up  and 
have  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  season,  and  stir  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  working  it  in  the  soup 
with  a  spoon  until  it  is  entirely  melted,  then  pour  it  into  the  soup  tureen  and  serve  the  following 
garnishing  separate: 

Garnishing. — Saute  four  ounces  of  chicken  livers;  pound  and  press  them  forcibly  through  a 
sieve,  adding  four  egg-yolks  and  some  cooked  fine  herbs.  With  this  preparation  make  small  half 
inch  diameter  balls,  roll  them  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter. 

(280).  PUREE  OF  RED  BEANS  A  LA  CONDE  (Puree  de  Haricots  rouges  a  la  Conde"). 

Soak  for  twelve  hours  in  tepid  water,  one  quart  of  red  beans;  drain  them,  then  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  six  quarts  of  water,  one  carrot  cut  in  pieces,  one  onion  and  a  bunch  of  ungarnished 
parsley,  and  let  cook  slowly  for  three  hours,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  cloves.  When  the 
beans  are  sufficiently  done,  drain  them  and  mash  them  in  a  mortar;  dilute  this  puree  with  its  own 
broth,  giving  it  a  proper  consistency,  then  incorporate  into  it,  when  ready  to  serve,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  good  butter.  Serve  separately  small  croutons  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  fried 
in  butter. 

(281).    PUREE  OF  REEDBIRDS  OR  LARKS  WITH  CHESTNUTS    (Puree  d'Ortolans  ou  d'Alouettes 

aux  Marrons). 

Procure  three  dozen  larks,  pick  them,  remove  the  pouches  and  gizzards,  and  take  off  the 
fillets,  laying  them  aside.  Fry  the  carcasses  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  butter,  with  half  a 
pound  of  smoked,  lean,  raw  ham,  cut  in  quarter  inch  squai'es,  and  moisten  with  three  quarts  of  game 
consomme  (No.  192),  and  one  quart  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Boil  slowly  and  despumate  for 
one  hour,  then  drain  and  pound  the  carcasses  and  ham  with  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched 
rice  cooked  in  consomme,  and  one  pound  of  chestnuts;  moisten  this  with  the  broth  and  strain  all 
through  a  sieve,  and  afterward  through  a  tammy,  add  some  Madeira  wine,  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  work  into  it  a  Ihree  ounce  piece  of  fine  butter,  stirring  it  in 
vigorously  till  thoroughly  melted.  Saute  the  fillets  when  ready,  and  serve  them  with  the 
soup. 

(282).  PUREE  OF  PEAS  WITH   CROUTONS  OR  RICE  (Pure"e  de  Pois  aux  Croutons  ou  au  Riz). 

Have  one  pound  of  dry  peas  (green  split  peas),  wash  them  well  changing  the  water  until  it  is 
perfectly  clear,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  beef  stock  or  water,  one  carrot 
cut  lengthwise  in  four,  two  large  onions  with  four  cloves,  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  and  let  cook  slowly 
on  the  range  or  in  a  slack  oven,  then  remove  the  carrots  and  cloves,  and  pass  the  peas  through  a 
fine  sieve  with  the  onions.  Season  properly  and  moisten  as  required,  then  let  the  soup  boil  up 
again,  skim  it  and  work  in  about  four  ounces  of  butter.  Serve  a  garnishing  of  bread  croutons  cut 
in  quarter  inch  dice  and  fried  in  butter,  or  else  some  rice  boiled  in  consomme. 

(283).  PUREE  OF  WILD  DUCKS,  [CANVASBAOK,  REDHEAD  OR  MALLARD]  A  LA  VAN  BUREN 

(Pur6e  de  Canards  Sauvages  [Oanvasback  Tete  Rouge  ou  Mallard]  a  la  Van  Buren). 
Roast  two  ducks  for  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes,  remove  the  fillets,  and  break  up  the  bones, 
putting  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  split  knuckle  of  veal  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham, 
also  two  cut  up  tomatoes,  and  one  onion  with  four  cloves  in  it.  Moisten  with  four  quarts  of  broth, 
cook  for  two  hours  and  strain  the  broth;  pound  tho  fillets  after  removing  all  the  skin,  with  the 
same  quantity  of  cooked  hominy,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  dilute  this  with  the  broth,  season  with 
salt  and  nutmeg,  and  heat  it  up  without  boiling.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it, 


SOUPS.  3ZG3 

four  ounces  of  good  butter,  and  beat  the  broth  up  well  with  a  spoon,  until  all  the  butter  is  melted; 
then  pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  with  a  garnishing  of  celery  cut  in  dice,  and  blanched  and  cooked 
in  some  consomme,  also  quarter  inch  squares  of  brioche  dried  in  the  oven. 

(284).  PUREE  OF  WILD  TURKEY  A  LA  SARTIGES  (PurSe  de  Dinde  Sauvage  a  la  Sartiges). 

Tiventy-four  Persons. — Braise  a  wild  turkey  in  a  braising  pan,  garnishing  the  bottom  of  it  with 
slices  of  fat  pork,  and  slices  of  onions  and  carrots,  and  on  top  lay  the  turkey;  moisten  with  a  quart 
of  broth,  let  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  again  to  its  height  with  more  broth,  adding  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  one  clove  of  garlic  and  a  split  knuckle  of  veal,  also  two  celery 
stalks,  and  let  cook  slowly;  when  the  turkey  is  done,  remove  it,  and  strain  the  broth  through  a 
tine  sieve.  As  soon  as  the  turkey  is  nearly  cold,  cut  away  all  its  skin,  and  detach  the  meat  adher- 
ing to  the  bones,  about  four  pounds  in  all;  pound  this  with  four  ounces  of  freshly  peeled  almonds, 
and  dilute  with  four  quarts  of  broth  and  two  quarts  of  veloute  (No.  415),  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  then  incorporate  into  it  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter.  A  garnishing  of  green  peas  cooked  in 
salted  water  and  some  pearl  barley  boiled  three  hours  in  white  broth  to  be  added  to  the  soup 
tureen. 

(285)  BARLEY  SOUP  WITH  CELERY  (Potage  d'Orge  an  Oeleri). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  begins  to  heat,  dredge  in 
ten  ounces  of  small  pearl  barley,  well  freed  of  all  dust  and  impurities;  let  cook  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  moisten  with  three  quarts  of  white  broth,  and  stir  continually  until  it  comes  to  a  boil;  salt, 
and  cook  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  till  the  barley  be  thoroughly  done;  adding  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  celery  roots  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  and  blanched  in  boiling  salted  water  for  ten 
minutes.  After  the  celery  is  well  cooked;  and  just  when  serving  the  soup,  taste  it  to  see  whether 
the  seasoning  be  correct,  then  add  a  thickening  of  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter  (No.  175). 

(286).  BARSCH  POLISH  STYLE  (Barsch  a  la  Polonaise). 

Wash  and  peel  ten  red  and  sweet  beet  roots,  cut  them  in  slices  of  one  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness;  put  them  into  an  earthen  pot,  or  a  wooden  bucket;  wet  them  plentifully  with  lukewarm 
water,  mix  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs  (the  addition  of  bread-crumbs  is  to  hasten  fermentation), 
cover  with  a  linen  and  leave  it  thus  stand  for  a  few  days.  When  the  barsch  is  well  acidulated, 
take  off  the  crust  of  fermentation  which  lies  at  the  surface;  strain  the  liquid,  put  it  into  an 
earthen  pan  or  into  an  enameled  iron  saucepan;  garnish  it  with  a  piece  of  fresh  pork,  knuckles 
of  veal,  breast  of  beef,  a  chicken  or  a  duck;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  commences  to  boil, 
skim  it,  and  garnish  with  a  few  celery  roots,  parsley,  onions,  leeks,  salt  and  whole  pepper,  dry 
mushrooms  (Gribouis).  Cover  and  boil  slowly  as  for  a  pot-au-feu;  take  out  the  meat  when  cooked. 
Cut  the  beet  roots  which  have  been  used  to  make  the  sour  juice,  in  the  shape  of  Julienne,  and 
an  equal  quantity  of  onions,  leeks  and  carrots;  fry  them  in  butter  and  wet  with  the  broth  of  the  barsch. 
Then  add  finely  shredded  cabbage  and  the  mushrooms,  and  let  all  cook  slowly.  When  all  is 
cooked  cut  the  breast  of  beef  in  squares  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch,  put  some  Frankfort  sausages  in 
boiling  water  for  ten  minutes,  take  off  the  skin,  cut  them  in  squares  of  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
add  them  to  the  soup,  as  well  as  some  small  round  raviolles.  These  raviolles  are  made  with 
chopped  cooked  meat,  well  seasone  .,  and  to  which  has  been  added  a  little  brown  sauce.  When 
ready  to  serve  this  soup,  put  a  littl  broth  into  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  some  well  colored  and  grated 
beet  roots,  and  let  boil,  remove  it  then  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  boils,  pass  it  through  a  linen  into 
the  soup:  add  to  this  soup  some  rennel  or  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  black  pepper.  This  soup  must 
be  a  little  acid;  should  it  not  be  acid  enough,  add  a  little  vinegar.  If  this  soup  is  to  be  served  at 
fine  dinners,  you  may  add  garnishing  of  marrow  quenelles  (No.  252),  of  the  size  of  an  olive,  some 
hard  boiled  eggs,  cut  lengthwise  in  two,  and  stuffed  with  the  yolks  which  have  been  removed, 
crushed  fine  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  grated  horseradish  and  chopped  parsley,  and  after 
being  stuffed  sprinkle  them  with  melted  butter,  bestrew  on  them  some  bread-crumbs  and  put  into 
an  oven  to  color.  This  soup  can  be  thickened  with  sour  cream  (the  Russian  smitane),  to  suit  the 
taste.  The  barsch  can  also  be  served  in  cups  at  receptions  and  evening  parties,  in  preparing  it  in 
the  following  manner:  Take  off  the  grease  of  the  barsch  and  strain  it,  and  then  clarify  it  by  add- 
ing to  each  gallon  one  pound  of  lean  meat  of  beef  chopped  and  mix  with  a  bottle  of  good  Bordeaux 
wine,  and  leave  it  at  the  corner  of  the  stove,  without  letting  it  boil;  strain  it  through  a  napkin  and 
serve  very  hot  in  cups. 


THE    EPICUREAN". 

(287).  BENNETT  SOUP  (Soupe  a  la  Bennett). 

This  soup  as  made  renowned  by  an  article  that  appeared  in  the  New  York  Herald,  March,  1874 

Put  into  a  soup  pot  six  gallons  of  water,  take  a  piece  of  the  shoulder  of  beef  (the  chuck), 
weighing  ten  pounds;  cut  off  all  the  fat  and  remove  the  bones;  divide  the  meat  into  inch  squares; 
set  the  bones  and  trimmings  into  a  net,  and  place  all  into  a  pot  with  the  water.  Set  the  pot  on  the 
fire,  and  let  boil;  at  the  first  boil  remove  all  the  scum  arising  to  the  surface,  then  add  salt,  a  spoonful 
of  whole  peppers  tied  in  a  small  bag  with  three  cloves,  one  pound  of  carrots,  and  three-quaarters  of 
a  pound  of  turnips,  cut  in  half  inch  squares;  half  a  pound  of  celery  cut  in  quarter  of  an  inch 
pieces,  four  ounces  of  onion,  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  four  pounds  of  cabbage,  suppressing  all 
the  hard  parts,  and  one  pint  of  well  washed  barley.  Cook  for  three  hours,  taste  to  see  whether 
the  seasoning  be  correct,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

If  this  soup  should  be  made  with  dry  beans,  they  need  to  be  soaked  in  cold  water  twelve  hours 
previous,  and  added  to  the  soup,  after  it  has  boiled  one  hour. 

With  dried  whole  peas.  — Soak  them  the  previous  evening,  and  add  them  to  the  soup,  after  it 
has  boiled  one  hour. 

With  lentils.— Add  them  after  one  hour. 

With  rice. — Add  it  after  two  hours  and  a  half. 

With  split  peas. — Add  them  after  one  hour. 

With  potatoes. — Add  them  after  two  hours. 

Three  hours  cooking  will  be  sufficiently  long  to  boil  this  soup,  no  matter  which  garnishing  is 
used.  Put  in  the  vegetables  according  to  the  time  designated  for  their  cooking,  so  that  the  soup 
be  always  ready  after  three  hours  boiling,  and  see  that  the  vegetables  are  not  too  well  done. 
Remove  the  net  containing  the  bones  and  trimmings,  take  out  the  meat  and  the  gelatinous  parts 
adhering  to  the  bones,  cut  them  up  into  small  pieces,  and  serve  them  with  the  soup. 

(288).  BENOITON  SOUP  (Potage  \  la  Benoiton). 

Have  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  turnips,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  celery, 
half  a  pound  of  leeks,  half  an  ounce  of  parsnips,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions;  blanch 
separately  the  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  and  parsnips  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  mince 
the  leeks  and  onions.  Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is 
warm,  throw  in  the  onions,  afterward  the  leeks,  letting  them  fry  for  two  minutes,  and  then  the 
remainder  of  the  vegetables;  fry  all  together  without  attaining  a  color,  and  moisten  with  four 
quarts  of  broth,  adding  bouquet  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  garlic,  and  bay  leaf,  and  boil, 
all  slowly  for  one  hour;  remove  the  bouquet,  and  add  to  the  soup  half  a  pound  of  peeled  tomatoes 
cut  in  two,  squeezed  out,  and  divided  into  small  half  inch  squares.  Season  and  continue  cooking 
for  another  half  hour,  then  add  a  quart  of  puree  of  fresh  peas,  one  ounce  of  rice,  blanched  and 
cooked  in  consomme,  string  beans  cut  lozenge-shaped,  some  asparagus  tops  and  a  pluche  of 
chervil. 

(289).  BOUILLABAISSE  (Bouillabaisse). 

Prepare  one-half  pound  of  red  snapper,  one-half  pound  of  lobster,  one-half  pound  of  perch, 
one-half  pound  of  sea  bass,  one-half  pound  of  blackfish,  one-half  pound  of  sheepshead,  one-half 
pound  of  cod,  one-half  pound  of  mackerel.  Cut  all  of  these  fish  into  two  and  a  quarter  inch 
squares.  Mince  a  fine  Julienne  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  carrots,  two  ounces  of  chopped  onions, 
and  two  ounces  of  leeks;  have  also  two  cloves  of  garlic.  Heat  in  a  saucepan,  one  gill  of  sweet  oil, 
add  to  it  the  vegetables  and  garlic,  fry  them  without  allowing  to  color,  then  add  one  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  mix  all  together,  and  put  in  the  fish;  moisten  to  its  height  with  half  white  wine  and  half 
water,  adding  two  medium  sized  peeled  tomatoes,  cut  in  two,  pressed  out,  and  chopped  up  coarsely; 
let  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  on  a  quick  fire  to  reduce  the  moistening,  then  add  one  clove  of  crushed 
and  chopped  garlic,  some  saffron,  salt,  pepper,  the  pulp  of  a  lemon  pared  to  the  quick,  and 
chopped  parsley;  remove  the  two  whole  cloves  of  garlic.  Serve  the  broth  or  stock  in  a  soup  tureen, 
the  fish  separately  as  well  as  thin  slices  of  toasted  bread;  should  the  moistening  not  be  sufficient 
for  the  soup,  then  add  some  fish  broth  to  it. 

Another  Way. — Have  one  pound  of  codfish,  one  of  sea  bass,  and  one  of  chicken  halibut;  cut 
these  in  two  and  a  quarter  inch  diameter  pieces.  Put  into  a  saucepan  three  pounds  of  fish  bones 
and  parings  with  some  carrots  and  onions  finely  minced,  white  wine,  parsley,  garlic,  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  salt,  and  pepper.  Moisten  with  half  a  bottlef ul  of  white  wine  and  sufficient  water  to  cover  the 
fish  entirely,  then  boil  for  twenty  minutes  and  strain.  Mince  up  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  leeks,  a 


SOUPS,  265 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  add  three  whole  cloves  of  garlic,  and  fry  these  in  a  gill  of  oil  without 
letting  the  mattain  a  color;  then  put  in  the  fish,  aad  two  pounds  of  live  lobster  cut  in  half  incll 
slices  from  the  tail.  Moisten  with  a  fish  stock  and  white  wine,  a  pinch  of  saffron,  and  lemon  juice. 
Boil  on  a  brisk  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  remova  the  garlic;  put  some  pieces  of  toasted  bread 
into  the  soup  tureen,  pour  the  broth  over,  and  serve  the  fish  in  a  separate  tureen. 

(290).  BEAGANOE  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Bragance). 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice,  drain,  and  put  it  into  two  quarts  and  half  of  boiling  white  brot3», 
then  set  the  saucepan  on  the  side  of  the  range.  Roast  a  chicken,  cut  it  up,  break  the  carcass,  and 
put  the  pieces  into  the  soup,  with  the  severed  thighs,  a  few  slices  of  raw  celery  root  and  some 
mushroom  parings;  cook  the  soup  for  one  hour;  skim  off  the  fat,  strain  it  without  pressing,  then 
return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  let  boil  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  season  with  salt.  Pound  the 
white  chicken  meat  with  the  addition  of  a  piece  of  butter,  press  it  through  a  tammy,  and  add  to 
this  preparation:  one  whole  egg,  eight  yolks,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  as  much 
raw  cream,  season  and  poach  these  in  timbaie  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137),  buttered;  at  the  last  minute, 
pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen,  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  green  peas,  and  serving  the  timbales 
cut  crosswise  in  a  separate  vegetable  dish. 

(291).  BKUNOISE  SOUP  WITH  QUENELLES  (Potage  &  la  Bmnoise  aux  QnenellesX 
Brunoise  is  made  with  half  a  pound  of  the  red  part  of  carrots,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  turnips, 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  celery,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  leeks,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  cabbage.  Trim  or  cut  the  vegetables  into  quarter  inch  squares,  the  leeks  to  be  pre- 
pared Julienne  shape;  mince  the  onions  and  blanch  each  of  the  vegetables  in  separate  waters, 
except  the  onions  and  leeks.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
is  very  hot,  throw  in  the  onions,  and  the  leeks  a  few  moments  later;  cook  a  little  longer,  then  add 
all  the  vegetables,  and  fry  colorless.  Dilute  with  one  pint  of  broth,  adding  a  good  pinch  of  sugar, 
and  reduce  slowly  till  the  moistening  is  entirely  evaporated,  and  the  vegetables  adhere  to  the  bottom 
of  the  saucepan;  moisten  again  with  four  quarts  of  broth,  then  boil,  skim  and  continue  the  cooking 
for  one  hour  and  a  half  more.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  the  very  hot  soup  into  a  tureea 
over  a  garnishing  of  small  chicken  quenelles  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  laid  with  a 
cornet  on  to  a  buttered  sheet  and  poached  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  then  well  drained. 

(292\  CABBAGE  SOUP  (Potage  aux  Choux). 

Remove  the  outer  leaves  from  a  medium  three  pound  cabbage,  and  divide  it  into  four 
parts ;  wash  well  in  plenty  of  water,  then  blanch  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes,  with  the 
addition  of  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  cut  lengthwise  in  two;  drain  the  cabbage  and  pork,  refresh 
them  thoroughly  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  then,  drain  and  squeeze  out  all  the  water  from  the 
cabbage.  Put  the  cabbage  into  a  saucepan,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  on  top  one 
pound  of  brisket  of  beef,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnishad  with  bay  leaf,  two  medium  carrots  cut  in 
four,  two  large  onions  with  two  cloves  in  them,  and  the  lard  that  was  blanched  with  the  cabbage. 
Moisten  with  three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  skim,  close  the  lid  hermetically  and  boil  slowly  for 
three  hours.  Drain  and  cut  the  cabbage  into  small  pieces,  set  them  into  a  soup  tureen,  with  some 
sliced  bread  dried  in  the  oven,  pour  the  soup  over  and  serve. 

(293).  CALF'S  PEET  SOUP,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Potage  Pieds  de  veau  a  1'Anglaise). 
Cut  in  two  lengthwise,  and  remove  the  bones  from  four  calf's  feet;  blanch  them,  then  braise 
them  so  that  they  are  entirely  cooked,  taking  about  four  or  five  hours.  Strain  the  feet,  and  set 
them  under  a  weight  to  reduce  them  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and,  when  thoroughly  cold, 
cut  them  up  into  inch  squares.  Prepare  a  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of  turnips,  half  a  pound 
of  celery  cut  quarter  inch  squares,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares. 
Pat  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  hot,  add  the  onions  and  let  fry  fora 
few  minutes,  then  the  carrots,  turnips  and  celery;  fry  all  colorless,  and  moisten  with  the  brotJtl 
from  the  calf's  feet,  increasing  its  quantity  with  broth  so  as  to  obtain  four  quarts.  Boil,  remove 
the  fat,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  thicken  the  soup  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  fecula 
diluted  in  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  one  gill  of  Madeira  and  a  pint  of  tomato  pure"e; 
then  boil  again,  and  despumate  the  broth.  Blanch  and  cook  for  three  hours  in  white  broth,  two 
ounces  of  pearl  barley,  add  it  to  the  soup,  also  the  prepared  calf's  feet.  Lay  on  a  buttered  pan 


266  THE    EPICUREAN. 

through  a  cornet  some  chicken  quenelles  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  colored  with  spinach 
green,  pour  boiling  salted  water  over,  and  when  poached,  drain  and  add  to  the  soup  ;  when 
the  whole  is  very  hot,  pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve. 

(294).  CALF'S  TAIL  A  LA  EUNDELL  (Queue  de  Veau  a  la  Eundell), 

Parboil  twelve  calves'  tails,  cut  them  into  pieces  about  one  inch  long,  and  fry  them  in  butter 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  and  adding  one  pound  of  carrots  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares, 
a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  Moisten  with  four 
quarts  of  broth,  and  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  and  to  continue  boiling  slowly  till  the  tails  and  vege- 
tables are  thoroughly  cooked,  then  remove  the  bunch  of  parsley.  Cut  two  medium  cabbages  in 
four,  plunge  them  into  boiling,  salted  water,  let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain  and  cut  out  the 
cores  and  other  hard  parts;  divide  each  quarter  into  eight  pieces,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  pour 
the  broth  the  tails  were  cooked  in  over  it,  let  the  cabbages  boil  up  once,  then  finish  the  cooking  in  a 
slack  oven  for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  lay  the  cabbages  in  a  soup  tureen,  add  the  tails 
and  vegetables,  and  pour  some  consomme  over;  season  Jo  taste  and  serve  the  soup  with  thin  slices 
of  buttered  bread,  browned  in  the  oven. 

(295).  OHAMBEELAIN  SOUP  (Potage  &  la  Chamberlain.), 

Keep  boiling  on  the  side  of  the  range,  two  quarts  of  thickened  soup  (No.  195);  boil  and  skim 
it  well.  Have  four  ounces  of  minced  onions,  Bermuda  ones  in  preference,  blanch  them  in  plenty 
of  water,  then  drain  and  fry  them  in  butter;  moisten  them  with  one  quart  of  broth,  adding  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  When  done,  press  them  forcibly  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  this  puree  to  the 
thick  stock;  boil,  then  skim,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  soup  with  a  thickening  of  four 
egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Serve  separately  a  garnishing  of  small 
cream  chicken  forcemeat  timbales  molded  in  timbale  molds  (No.  5,  Fig.  137),  poached  and  cut 
in  two  crosswise,  putting  them  into  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme  added,  and  serve. 

(296).  OHAMPETEE  SOUP  (Potage  Champetre). 

Despumate  for  twenty-five  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  range,  two  quarts  of  thick  white  soup  stock 
(No.  195),  with  a  handful  of  mushroom  parings  added.  Take  some  long  French  rolls  called  "flutes," 
each  one  being  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  scrape  off  the  superficial  upper  crust,  and  cut  them 
transversely  into  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  brown  these  on  one  side  with  clarified  butter, 
then  drain  them  off,  leaving  the  butter  in  the  pan.  Cover  the  toasted  sides  of  these  slices  with  a 
paste  made  of  fresh  Swiss,  Chestershire,  and  Parmesan  cheeses,  pounded  and  moistened  with  a 
little  beer  and  Marsala  wine,  finishing  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper;  dust  this  paste  over  with 
grated  parmesan,  return  the  bread  to  the  pan,  and  put  it  into  a  hot  oven  to  glaze  the  cheese,  then 
range  them  on  plates.  Skim  all  the  fat  from  the  soup,  strain  and  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan, 
add  half  a  gill  of  soubise  puree  (No.  723),  mingled  with  four  egg-yolks,  butter  and  grated  nutmeg; 
pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  at  the  same  time  as  the  cheese  crusts. 

(297).  OEAETEEUSE  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Chartreuse). 

Boil  up  two  quarts  of  clarified  veal  broth;  put  into  it  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  French 
tapioca,  and  let  cook  together  for  twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes;  strain,  and  return  it  to  the  sauce- 
pan on  the  side  of  the  range.  Prepare  with  some  thinly  rolled  out  raviole  paste  (No.  147),  four  or 
five  dozen  small  ravioles,  filling  them  with  three  different  preparations;  one-third  of  them  with  a 
good  puree  of  spinach,  one-third  with  a  puree  or  cooked  foies-gras  combined  with  a  little  melted 
beef  extract,  and  the  other  third  with  finely  chopped  up  fresh  oronge-agaric,  thickened  with  a 
little  reduced  sauce,  or  should  there  be  no  oronge-agaric  then  use  cepes  or  peeled  mushrooms. 
Plunge  into  boiling  water  four  or  five  not  over  ripe  tomatoes;  drain  them  as  soon  as  the  skin  peels 
off,  and  press  them  through  a  tammy,  and  if -the  puree  be  too  thin,  then  let  it  drain  on  a  fine  sieve, 
reserving  the  liquid,  and  putting  it  into  a  saucepan  with  some  good  veal  stock  and  reduce  it  to  a 
half  glaze.  Cook  the  ravioles  slowly  in  salted  water  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  with  the  cover 
on,  then  drain,  and  lay  them  in  the  soup  tureen.  Remove  the  soup  from  off  the  fire,  mix  it  in 
with  the  puree  of  raw  tomatoes,  season,  and  pour  it  over  the  ravioles. 

(298).    CHICKEN  AND  LEEK  SOUP  (Potage  &  la  Volaille  et  aux  Poireaux). 
Put  into  a  saucepan  one  chicken,  weighing  three  pounds.     Let  it  be  very  fresh,  drawn  and 
singed;  add  a  small  split  knuckle  of  veal,  moisten  with  four  quarts  of  good  broth,  and  boil  up  the 


SOUPS.  267 

Ikjuid:  skim  and  let  simmer  uninterruptedly  for  three  hours.  After  the  chicken  is  three-quarters 
done,  remove  it  and  lift  off  the  skin;  mince  up  the  flesh,  and  put  this  into  a  saucepan,  with  the 
white  part  of  twelve  leeks,  cut  in  two  inch  lengths,  then  lengthwise  in  four,  and  blanched  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  drain  them  and  put  them  on  to  cook  with  the  minced  chicken.  After  all  is  well 
done,  pour  it  into  the  soup  tureen;  season  the  broth  properly,  and  strain  it  through  a  fine,  damp 
napkin;  add  this  to  the  tureen  and  serve.  Have  a  separate  garnishing  of  small  timbales,  made 
with  eight  egg-yolks,  one  pint  of  cream,  salt,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  strained  through  a  sieve;  fill 
some  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  4,  Fig.  137),  with  this  preparation,  poach  them  (No.  152),  then 
unmold.  cut  them  in  two  crosswise,  and  lay  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  broth  added. 
Serve  the  garnishing  separately  at  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 

(299).  CHICKEN  OKKA  SOUP  (Gombo  de  Volaille). 

Prepare  two  pounds  of  the  breast  of  chicken  cut  into  half  inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  salted 
raw  ham  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  onions  cut  in  eighth  inch  squares  and  two 
pounds  or  eight  fine  tomatoes  plunged  into  boiling  water  to  remove  their  skins;  then  cut  in  four, 
and  slightly  pressed  to  extract  the  seeds;  four  ounces  of  rice,  picked,  washed  and  cooked  in  salted 
water  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  one  pound  of  okras  cut  crosswise  in  pieces  a  quarter  or  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch,  according  to  their  size,  four  ounces  of  finely  cut  up  green  peppers,  four  quarts 
of  broth  and  four  ounces  of  butter.  Put  the  butter  into  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  is 
very  hot,  throw  in  the  onions  to  fry  colorless,  add  the  ham  and  let  all  fry  together  ;  then  add  the 
chicken  meat;  fry  again  slowly  while  stirring,  till  the  butter  is  entirely  clarified;  then  moisten  with 
chicken  broth  made  from  the  bones  of  the  chicken,  and  four  pounds  of  leg  of  veal,  adding 
some  beef  stock.  Remove  ail  the  fat  from  the  soup,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes;  put  in  the  okras 
and  green  peppers,  then  continue  cooking  until  the  gumbo  or  okras  are  entirely  done;  add  the 
tomatoes,  boil  a  few  minutes  longer  and  season  with  salt,  Worcestershire  sauce  and  mushroom 
catsup.  Place  the  rice  in  a  soup  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over.  This  soup  is  frequently 
strained  and  served  in  consomme  cups. 

(300).  CLAM  OHOWDEE  (Chowder  de  Lucines). 

Prepare  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  well  chopped  fat  pork,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  chopped 
not  too  fine,  four  ounces  of  chopped  onions,  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  potatoes  cut  in  seven-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  squares;  two  quarts  of  clams  retaining  all  the  juice  possible;  one  quart  of  tomatoes 
peeled,  pressed  and  cut  in  half  inch  squares.  Put  the  fat  pork  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  fried, 
add  the  onions  to  fry  for  one  minute,  then  the  potatoes,  the  clams  and  the  tomatoes;  should  there  not 
be  sufficient  moistening,  pour  in  a  little  water  and  boil  the  whole  until  the  potatoes  are  well  done. 
Add  five  pilot  crackers  broken  up  into  very  small  bits;  one  soup  spoonful  of  thyme  leaves,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  a  very  little  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  This  quantity  will  make  four  gallons, 
sufficient  for  sixty  persons. 

Another  way. —  Chop  up  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  pork,  melt  it  down,  adding  four  ounces  of 
onions  cut  in  quarter  inch  dice,  and  fry  them  with  the  pork,  without  coloring,  then  add  one  and  a 
half  pounds  of  potatoes  cut  in  half  inch  squares,  a  pound  of  peeled  and  halved  tomatoes,  pressed 
out  and  cut  in  five-eighth  inch  squares,  one  ounce  of  coarsely  chopped  parsley,  seventy-five  medium 
sized  clams,  removing  the  hard  parts  and  chopping  them  up  very  fine,  the  clam  juice,  a  little 
salt  if  found  necessary,  pepper  and  thyme  leaves.  Boil  the  whole  till  the  potatoes  are  cooked  (the 
green  part  of  celery  chopped  fine)  and  should  the  clam  juice  not  be  sufficient,  then  add  a  little 
water. 

(301),  CHOWDEE  OF  FEESH  AND  SALT  WATEE  FISH  A  LA  STEBENS  (Chowder  de  Poissoa 

d'Eau  Douce  et  d'Eau  de  Mer  a  la  Stebens). 

Fresh  Water  Fish. — Prepare  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  water  fish,  such  as  eels,  pike  perch 
or  wall-eyed  perch  (sandre),  and  cut  in  one  and  a  half  inch  squares;  also  one  pound  of  potatoes 
cut  in  half  inch  dice,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  minced  onions,  half  a  pound  of  chopped  fat  pork, 
and  three  green  peppers  chopped  fine.  Melt  the  pork,  add  to  it  the  onions  fry  without  coloring, 
then  the  add  squares  of  potatoes  and  the  fish,  moisten  to  the  height  of  the  fish  with  water,  season 
with  salt  and  black  pepper  and  let  boil  until  the  potatoes  are  cooked.  This  chowder  must  be 
thick  and  appear  more  like  a  stew,  still,  some  broth  can  be  added  to  it,  to  thin  it  out  according 
to  taste. 

Salt  Water  Fish.—  Prepare  two  pounds  of  sea  bass,  sheepshead,  blackfish  and  kingfish,  cut 
them  in  one  and  a  half,  to  two  inch  squares,  have  also  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  minced  potatoes, 


268  THE    EPICUREAN. 

three  ounces  of  salt  pork,  and  three  ounces  of  onions.  Put  the  salt  pork  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  fry  lightly  with  the  onions,  then  add  the  potatoes  and  the  fish,  also  a  hunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  summer  savory;  season  with  salt,  black  and  red  pepper,  and 
moisten  to  the  height  of  the  fish  with  some  water.  Cook  on  a  quick  fire  for  twenty  minutes,  or 
until  the  potatoes  are  done,  then  remove  the  parsley,  add  two  broken  and  soaked  pilot  crackers 
and  serve. 

(302).  GOLD  SOUP,  RUSSIAN  STYLE  (Potage  Proid  a  la  Russe). 

Cut  into  quarter  inch  squares,  one  salted  cucumber  and  two  fresh  ones,  free  of  their 
peel  and  seeds,  (one  pound  in  all),  put  these  into  a  soup  tureen  on  the  ice;  add  the  meat  from 
sixty  crawfish,  or  one  pound  of  the  meat  from  a  lobster's  claws,  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares  of  the 
same  dimension  as  the  cucumbers;  and  half  a  pound  of  braized  sturgeon  or  salmon  cut  in  quarter 
inch  squares;  put  all  these  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve.  Have  one  quart  of  sour  cream,  strain  it 
through  a  tammy,  also  two  quarts  of  kwass,  and  stir  into  it  a  few  pieces  of  very  clean  ice,  also  the 
cucumbers  and  lobster  laid  aside;  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  and  serve 
separately  on  a  plate  some  hard  boiled  eggs,  cut  in  four  and  sprinkled  over  with  chervil  and  fennel. 

Kwass. — In  order  to  make  twelve  bottles  of  kwass,  procure  two  pounds  of  rye,  two  pounds  of 
wheat,  and  one  pound  of  hulled  barley;  pour  tepid  water  over  all,  and  when  these  grains  are 
swollen,  add  four  pounds  of  rye  flour,  and  mix  well  together  with  tepid  water,  so  as  to  form  a 
paste  neither  too  thin  nor  too  thick.  Put  this  into  a  large  earthen  pot,  into  a  hot  oven,  and  let  it 
brown.  After  this  has  cooked  five  hours,  pour  it  into  a  pail  or  barrel  and  mix  in  with  it  twelve 
bottlefuls  of  cold  water;  let  rest  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  decant  the  liquid  and  clarify  it  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  yeast  mixed  with  a  third  of  a  bottleful  of  Madeira  wine;  rest  again  for  five 
hours,  and  remove  the  clear  part,  and  with  this  liquid  fill  up  the  bottles,  setting  one  dry  Malaga 
raisin  into  each  one,  then  cork,  tie,  and  keep  the  bottles  in  a  cool  place. 

(303),  OEAB  AND  SHKIMP  SOUP  A  LA  LOUBAT  (Potage  aux  Orabes  et  aux  Crevettes  a 

la  Loubat). 

Wash  well  twenty-four  hard  crabs;  boil  them,  and  remove  all  the  shells  as  well  as  the  lungs; 
cleanse  them  in  water  changing  it  frequently,  then  remove  all  the  meat  contained  therein,  and 
pound  it  while  diluting  with  three  pints  of  thickened  fish  so'JO  stock  (No.  195).  Allow  to 
despumate  for  half  an  hour,  then  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  returning  it  to  a 
clean  saucepan;  place  this  on  the  fire,  and  stir  continually,  and  at  the  Srst  boil,  skim  it  carefully; 
adding  some  red  pepper;  thicken  the  soup  with  six  egg-yolks,  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  three 
ounces  of  butter;  make  a  garnishing  of  quenelles  as  follows:  Have  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  90),  pushed  through  a  cornet  to  form  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  beads,  on  a  buttered  tin  sheet, 
and  poach  them  in  boiling,  salted  water;  have  also  three-eighths  inch  ball  of  potatoes  cooked  in  a 
very  little  white  broth,  and  some  shrimp  tails  cut  into  two  or  three  pieces. 

(304).  CRAWFISH  SOUP  A  LA  RENOMMEE  (Potage  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  Renomme~e), 
Boil  a  few  dozen  crawfish  in  a  court  bouillon  with  white  wine;  dram  them,  and  detach  the 
tails  from  the  bodies,  suppressing  the  tail  shells.  Keep  boiling  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  one  and  a 
half  quarts  of  thickened  white  soup  stock;  put  into  it  the  crawfish  shells  after  pounding  them,  and 
let  the  soup  despumate  for  thirty-five  minutes,  remove  all  the  fat,  strain  and  return  it  to  the 
saucepan;  boil  it  up  again,  and  stir  in  cayenne  pepper  to  taste.  Take  all  the  meat  from  the  tails 
and  claws  of  the  crawfish,  chop  up  the  claws  with  the  parings  of  the  tails  and  claws,  mixing  in  a 
little  bread  panada,  red  butter,  a  few  raw  egg-yolks  and  red  pepper;  prepare  a  small  forcemeat  with 
this,  and  shape  it  into  tiny  quenelles,  rolling  them  on  a  floured  table;  poach  them,  then  drain  and 
put  them  in  the  soup  tureen  with  the  crawfish  tails  cut  in  two  lengthwise.  Skim  the  fat  from  the 
soup,  thicken  it  with  four  egg-yolks  and  two  spoonfuls  of  puree  of  white  asparagus  tops,  and  also  a 
little  raw  cream;  let  the  thickening  cook  without  boiling,  and  finish  the  soup  with  a  piece  of  good 
butter  working  it  vigorously  with  a  whip. 

(305).  OROUTE  AU  POT  (Oroute  an  Pot), 

Put  into  an  earthen  pot  (a  pipkin)  twelve  quarts  of  stock,  adding  a  piece  of  the  rump  of  beef, 
Which  must  weigh  eight  pounds  when  trimmed  and  free  from  part  of  its  fat,  and  a  fowl  weighing 
four  pounds,  drawn,  singed  and  well  washed;  then  add  one  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of 
onions  with  four  cloves  in  them,  two  ounces  of  celery,  and  twenty-four  whole  peppers.  Let  boil 
up,  salt  it,  and  continue  boiling  very  slowly  for  three  hours  and  a  half  to  four  hours.  Kemove  the 


SOUPS.  269 

vegetables  as  soon  as  each  one  is  done,  pare  the  carrots  cork  shaped  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  cut 
them  into  three-sixteenth  inch  thick  pieces;  the  turnips  shaped  like  a  clove  of  garlic.  Cut  length- 
wise in  two  some  small  French  rolls,  make  them  into  pieces  two  inches  long,  scoop  out  the 
crumbs,  and  on  this  side  besprinkle  them  with  some  good  chicken  fat,  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven. 
Lay  them  on  a  dish,  the  rounded  side  uppermost,  and  one  beside  the  other;  sprinkle  them  over 
again  with  chicken  fat,  and  brown  them  in  the  oven.  Cut  a  cabbage  into  four  parts,  wash  these 
in  plenty  of  water,  and  blanch  in  salted  water  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain,  and  refresh  for  half 
an  hour;  press  well,  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  carrot  cut  in  four,  and  one  onion  with 
cloves  in  it;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  stock  and  half  a  pint  of  chicken  fat; 
the  cabbage  must  be  covered  two  inches  above  its  height,  then  cook  for  two  hours.  When  the 
cabbage  is  done,  drain,  and  serve  it  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  the  rolls  around,  and  lay  the  carrots 
and  turnips  on  top  ;  send  the  soup  to  the  table  in  a  separate  soup  tureen. 

(306).  D'OSMONT  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  D'Osmont). 

Mince  up  four  ounces  of  carrot,  two  ounces  of  onions,  and  one  ounce  of  celery,  fry  these  in 
four  ounces  of  butter,  adding  four  pounds  of  fresh  tomatoes  cut  in  two  and  pressed.  Moisten 
with  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  let  cook  for  half  an  hour,  then  press  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve; 
put  this  into  a  saucepan,  adding  one  quart  of  thick  soup  stock  (No.  195),  boil,  skim,  and  when  ready 
to  serve,  taste  the  soup  to  see  whether  it  be  seasoned  properly,  if  it  should  be  too  thick  add  some 
bouillon  to  it,  and  then  pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  with  a  garnishing  of  rice  blanched  and  cooked  in 
white  consomme,  also  some  small  chicken  forcemeat  quenelles  (No.  89)  colored  with  spinach  green. 

(307).  FERMIERE  STYLE  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Fermiere). 

Have  four  medium  sized  onions,  four  ounces  of  leeks,  half  a  cabbage,  suppressing  the  core,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  potatoes,  four  ounces  of  turnips,  half  a  pound  of  carrots  and  four  ounces  of 
celery,  all  minced  up  very  fine,  also  some  minced  lettuce.  Put  one  pound  of  scraped  fat  pork  into  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  hot,  add  the  minced  onions  and  leeks;  fry  for  two  minutes,  and  throw 
in  the  other  vegetables  and  cook  them  without  letting  them  g3t  brown.  Sprinkle  over  four  spoon- 
fuls of  flour,  let  cook  and  a  few  minutes  after,  dilute  with  four  quarts  of  stock;  stir  the  whole  until 
it  boils,  then  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf,  four  ounces  of  string  beans  cut  lozenge 
shape,  and  two  ounces  of  raw  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares;  boil  again  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  and  then  add  a  handful  of  chopped  up  sorrel,  and  a  little  minced  chervil;  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  remove  the  parsley,  season  to  taste,  and  pour  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen  over  slices  of 
toasted  bread  or  else  slices  of  buttered  bread  browned  in  the  oven. 

(308).  PISH  SOUP  A  LA  PONSARDIN  (Potage  de  Poisson  k  la  Ponsardin). 

Cut  one  pound  of  fillet  of  bass  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  one  inch  and  a 
quarter  in  diameter;  fry  these  in  some  butter,  and  set  them  under  a  weight;  when  cold  pare  them. 
Take  the  tails  from  one  pound  of  shrimps,  peel  them,  and  keep  the  meat  aside.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, one  very  fresh  bass  head,  also  the  parings  cut  from  the  fillets  and  the  shrimps,  add  half  a 
pound  of  stalks  or  parings  of  mushrooms,  a  quarter  of  a  bottlef  ul  of  white  wine,  and  three  quarts  of 
water,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  carrots  and  minced  onions;  boil  for  thirty  minutes, 
then  strain.  Make  a  blond  roux  with  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour; 
moisten  it  with  the  fish  broth,  boil,  despumate,  and  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  lobster 
butter,  with  Kari;  serve  as  a  garnishing  the  shrimp  tails  and  the  small  prepared  fillets  of  bass. 

(309).  FROG  SOUP  AND  FROG  SOUP  WITH  TIMBALES  (Potage  aux  Grenouilles  et  aux  Timbales  de 

Grenouilles). 

Mince  well  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  white  part  of  leeks,  wet  them  with  two  quarts  of  fish 
broth,  let  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  press  them  forcibly  through  a  sieve,  returning  this 
to  the  saucepan.  Have  one  pound  and  a  half  of  frogs,  suppress  half  a  pound  from  the  thighs  (the 
thick  part  of  the  thigh);  put  the  balance  in  with  the  broth,  and  four  ounces  of  fresh  bread-crumbs; 
boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain  and  pound  all  well.  Dilute  with  the  broth,  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  heat  it  up  without  boiling,  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter,  the  pro- 
portions being  four  yolks,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Cook  separate  in  some 
broth,  the  half  pound  of  frogs  kept  aside;  remove  all  the  bones,  and  put  them  into  the  soup  with  a 
pluche  of  chervil  (No.  448). 

Frog  I'imbales.—Use  the  same  soup,  but  instead  of  the  garnishing  of  boned  frog  thighs,  sub- 


270  THE    EPICUREAN. 

stitute  small  timbales  the  shape  of  half  a  pigeon  egg;  butter  and  fill  them  with  frog  forcemeat 
(No.  222),  and  cream;  then  poach  them  (No.  152)  in  a  slack  oven.  Unmold,  and  serve  separately 
in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little  consomme;  put  a  timbale  into  each  plate  when  serving  the  soup. 

(310).  GAEBUEE  WITH  LETTUCE  (Gartoire  aux  Laitues). 

First  wash  sixteen  small  lettuce  heads  several  times,  changing  the  water  each  time;  blanch  them 
for  ten  minutes,  then  refresh  and  press  out  all  the  liquid  from  them;  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  season 
them  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  on  each  a  chicken  forcemeat  ball  of  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  mixing  in  with  it  a  little  chopped  chervil.  Wrap  up  the  forcemeat  in 
the  lettuce,  fold  them  over,  giving  them  a  long  appearance;  then  tie  three  times  round  with  a  fine 
string  (lettuce  for  soup  must  not  be  wrapped  in  lard),  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  lined  with 
carrots,  onions,  and  a  garnished  bouquet.  Cover  with  some  veal  stock,  protect  with  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper,  boil,  and  let  the  lettuce  simmer  for  two  hours,  then  drain,  untie,  and  trim  them 
slightly;  put  them  into  a  vegetable  dish,  moistening  them  with  consomme,  and  keep  them  in  a 
warm  place  until  needed.  Trim  off  some  small  rye  rolls,  the  same  as  for  croute-au-pot  (No.  305); 
range  them  in  a  deep  dish,  baste  them  over  with  chicken  fat,  and  brown  them  in  the  oven;  drain 
off  the  fat,  and  when  colored,  moisten  them  with  good  broth,  season  with  a  little  mignonette, 
and  send  to  the  table  at  the  same  time  a  soup  tureen  of  consomme.  Serve  grated  parmesan 
cheese  separately.  Put  into  each  plate  one  of  the  crusts,  also  one  lettuce  and  cover  with 
consomme. 

(311).  GIBLET  SOUP  A  LA  EEGLAIN  (Abatis  a  la  Eeglain). 

Prepare  the  giblets  taken  from  three  ducks  or  two  geese,  the  necks,  pinions  and  gizzards; 
remove  the  skin  from  the  necks,  cutting  them  off  near  the  head,  pluck  the  pinions  and 
singe  them;  make  a  cut  on  the  side  of  the  gizzards  to  remove  the  inside  without  breaking  the 
pouch,  suppress  the  interior  white  skin,  also  the  outside  tough  part,  retaining  only  the  soft  meat, 
cut  this  into  quarter  inch  squares,  then  divide  the  neck  and  pinions  into  small  pieces;  as  well  as  the 
unblanched  hearts.  Fry  slowly  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  the  white  part  of  six  leeks  cut  into  inch 
long  pieces,  then  blanch,  add  the  giblets  and  fry  all  together  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  dilute 
with  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  and  one  gill  of  broth,  and  let  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze.  Moisten 
again  with  three  quarts  of  broth  and  boil,  then  simmer  slowly  until  thoroughly  cooked;  strain  the 
liquid  through  a  sieve,  and  thicken  it  by  working  into  it  two  heaping  spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  or 
potato  fecula,  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water.  Add  to  the  soup,  the  livers  braized  and  cooled 
off,  cut  into  quarter  of  inch  squares,  and  some  blanched  chervil  leaves;  season  with  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper  and  serve  with  a  garnishing  of  carrots,  turnips  and  celery  cut  in  squares  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch,  blanched  and  cooked  separately  in  white  broth. 

(312).  GNOOQUIS  SOUP  A  LA  PAGIOLI  (Potage  aux  Gnocquis  a  la  PagioliX 

To  Make  the  Gnocquis. — Put  a  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  salt,  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  At  the  first  boil  remove  the  saucepan  and 
add  to  its  contents  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thin  paste;  dry  this  paste  on  a  slow  fire,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  it  no  longer  adheres  to  the  pan,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  to  allow  the  paste  to 
cool  off  a  little,  and  then  incorporate  into  it  seven  or  eight  eggs.  Pour  this  paste  into  a  linen  bag 
furnished  with  a  socket  having  an  opening  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  boil  some  water  in  a  saucepan, 
add  to  it  a  little  salt,  and  force  the  paste  through  the  socket  in  the  form  of  strings  into  it  in 
order  to  poach  it,  and  when  firm,  drain  them  and  range  them  in  a  vegetable  dish,  alternating  layers 
of  gnocquis  with  grated  parmesan  cheese,  then  brown  the  whole  in  the  oven.  Serve  with  a  separate 
tureen  full  of  consomme. 

(313).  GUMBO  OE  OKEA  WITH  HAED  OEABS,  CEEOLE  STYLE  (Gombo  aux  Orabes  durs  k  la 

Creole). 

Chop  up  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  pork,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  adding  half  a 
pound  of  onions  cut  in  dice,  and  a  pound  of  lean  beef  in  squares;  fry  all  together,  then  add  six 
peeled  tomatoes  cut  in  two,  two  pounds  of  minced  young  okras,  twelve  small  cooked  crabs,  sup- 
pressing the  shells  and  lungs,  wash  them  thoroughly  and  split  them  in  four,  one  clove  of  garlic, 
three  green  peppers  minced  up  fine,  six  quarts  of  broth,  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  curry;  boil  all  up 
till  well  cooked,  then  thicken  with  six  tablespoonf uls  of  arrowroot  dissolved  in  cold  water.  Serve 
separately  some  rice  cooked  in  twice  its  quantity  of  water,  with  salt,  fill  some  buttered  molds  (No. 
6»  Fig-  137),  with  this,  set  it  in  a  slow  oven,  unmold  and  serve  at  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 


SOUPS.  271 

(314).  GUMBO  OE  OKRA  WITH  SOFT  SHELL  CRABS  (Gombo  aux  Orabes  Moux), 
Set  into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter  to  heat,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  shallots,  four  ounces 
of  lean  raw  ham,  and  fry  without  letting  attain  a  color;  pour  in  four  quarts  of  thickened  fish  stock, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely  cut  up  green  peppers  and  let  the  whole  simmer  for  twenty  minutes, 
then  add  sixteen  soft  shell  crabs  cut  in  two  or  four,  according  to  their  size,  and  well  cleansed;  boil 
again  for  fifteen  minutes  and  drain  off  the  crabs;  pare  them  nicely  and  return  them  to  the  sauce- 
pan with  the  liquid,  and  thicken  this  with  eight  spoonfuls  of  ground  gumbo  or  okra,  and  some 
good  butter.  Prepare  a  separate  garnishing  of  rice  cooked  with  twice  its  quantity  of  water,  salt 
and  lard,  boiling  all  together  for  ten  minutes  ;  fill  a  buttered  one  quart  charlotte  mold  with  this, 
and  set  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes;  unmold,  and  serve  the  same  time  as  the  soup. 

(315).  HUNTERS'  STYLE  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Chasseur). 

Roast  three  partridges  and  one  young  wild  rabbit,  all  barded  with  slices  of  fat  pork;  when 
done,  remove  the  fillets  from  the  partridges  as  well  as  from  the  rabbit,  doing  this  very  carefully. 
Put  the  rest,  meat  and  bones,  into  a  saucepan  or  stock  pot,  with  a  fowl  split  into  pieces,  and  two 
pounds  of  small,  half  inch  squares  of  beef.  Moisten  with  four  quarts  of  beef  stock  (No.  194a),let  it 
boil,  then  skim  and  add  some  carrots,  turnips,  onions  and  two  cloves;  cook  slowly  for  two  hours, 
salt  properly,  then  cut  into  squares  the  fillets  taken  from  the  partridges  and  rabbit.  Have  some 
small,  round  rolls,  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter ;  after  completely  emptying  them  with  a 
knife,  fill  the  insides  with  a  delicate  young  rabbit  godiveau  (No.  84),  mixing  in  with  it  some 
chopped  up  mushrooms  and  truffles.  Lay  the  rolls  on  a  buttered  pan,  one  beside  the  other, 
besprinkle  them  over  with  butter  or  broth,  and  dredge  some  grated  parmesan  cheese  on  top;  set 
them  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  lay  them  in  a  vegetable  dish;  strain  the  rest  of 
the  broth  through  a  napkin,  clarify  it  and  boil  it  up  again,  thickening  with  a  spoonful  of  tapioca 
for  each  quart  and  adding  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine. 

(316).  JAPANESE  OR  NIZAM  PEARLS.  TAPIOCA,  MANIOC,  SAGO  OR  SALEP,  SEMOLINO, 
CASSAVA.  GLUTEN  (Perles  de  Japon  ou  de  Nizam,  Tapioca  Manioc,  Sagou  Salep,  Semoule, 
Cassave  et  Gluten). 

It  takes  from  twenty  to  forty  minutes  to  cook  these  farinaceous  foods.  Let  drop  like  rain  into 
the  boiling  consomme,  the  proportion  of  one  spoonful  for  each  pint  of  liquid;  boil  slowly,  and 
skim  the  surface  carefully.  The  length  of  time  to  cook  Japanese  or  nizam  pearls,  is  to  boil  them 
for  ten  minutes,  and  finish  cooking  in  a  bain-marie,  for  thirty  minutes  longer. 

For  sago  and  salep,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  finish  cooking  in  a  bain-marie  for  twenty  minutes 
longer. 

French  tapioca  needs  boiling  five  to  ten  minutes. 

Manioc  tapioca  which  is  generally  used  in  this  country  requires  longer  cooking;  it  will  take 
twenty  minutes;  it  may  be  kept  in  a  bain-marie  for  ten  minutes  longer. 

Gluten  takes  twenty  minutes  to  cook. 

Semolino  and  farina,  ten  minutes. 

Cassava,  twenty-five  minutes. 

(317).  JEROME  SOUP  WITH  SWEET  POTATO  QUENELLES  (Potage  a  la  Jerome  aux  Quenelles  de 

Patates). 

Pour  some  game  broth  (No.  195),  into  a  soup  tureen;  serve  separately  sweet  potato  quenelles 
as  a  garnishing,  also  some  blanched  tarragon  leaves.  Have  croutons  of  bread  one  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter,  covered  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven;  serve  them  at  the  same  time  as 
the  soup  and  garnishings. 

Sweet  Potato  Quenelles.—  Bake  some  sweet  potatoes  in  the  oven,  remove  their  insides  when 
they  are  done  so  as  to  obtain  a  half  pound  of  potato;  and  add  while  mashing  them  one  ounce  of 
butter,  one  ounce  of  grated  parmesan,  one  whole  egg,  one  yolk,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  also 
one  tablespoonful  of  potato  fecula.  Make  some  flattened  oval  shaped  quenelles,  poach  and  serve 
when  done  with  the  soup. 

(318).  JULIENNE  SOUP  PAUBONNE  AND  MOGUL  (Potage  a  la  Julienne  Paubonne  et  Mogol). 

To  Cut  the  Vegetables. — Cutting  vegetables  Julienne,  is  the  act  of  dividing  them  into  slices 
either  long  or  short,  thick  or  thin.  There  is  fine,  medium  and  large  Julienne. 


272  THE    EPICUREAN. 

In  order  to  accomplish  this,  cut  first  the  roots  or  meats  into  thin  slices,  then  divide  them 
into  bands  of  an  equal  width,  so  as  to  cut  them  transversely  into  fillets  as  wide  as  they  are 
thick,  or  in  other  words  square;  the  fine  Julienne  is  five-eighths  of  an  inch  long  by  little  over  one- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  square;  the  medium  is  seven  eighths  of  an  inch  long  by  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
square,  and  the  large  Julienne  is  cut  one  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches  long  by  three-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  square.  The  vegetables  cut  in  Julienne  are  usually  intended  for  soups,  while  chicken, 
game,  foies-gras,  truffles,  tongue  and  mushrooms  are  used  for  garnishings. 

For  Julienne. — Put  into  a  saucepan  containing  six  quarts,  four  ounces  of  butter,  add  a 
vegetable  Julienne  cut  one  and  three-quarter  inches  by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  square,  six  ounces 
of  the  red  part  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  turnips,  two  ounces  of  leeks,  two  ounces  of  celery  root  and 
two  ounces  of  minced  onion.  Blanch  the  carrots,  turnips  and  celery  separately,  should  they  be 
hard;  place  the  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire  to  simmer  the  roots  without  browning  them,  then  moisten 
with  two  gills  of  broth,  let  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze  and  begin  again,  until  the  vegetables  are  nearly 
cooked,  being  careful  to  stir  them  occasionally.  Moisten  with  three  quarts  more  of  boiling  broth, 
let  boil,  skim,  remove  the  fat,  and  add  four  ounces  of  cabbage  leaves,  suppressing  the  hard  part 
and  cutting  them  up  fine  and  blanching  them,  boil  all  together  till  the  vegetables  are  cooked,  then 
add  a  chiffonnade  composed  of  a  handful  of  sorrel,  the  leaves  of  a  lettuce  head  and  a  little  chervil, 
all  well  cleaned,  washed,  pressed  and  cut  up  fine.  Boil  again  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  skim  and 
season  with  salt  and  sugar.  Serve  the  Julienne  with  green  peas  cooked  in  salted  water;  slices  of 
bread  croutons  may  also  be  served  separately,  with  the  Julienne  or  else  poached  eggs  or  quenelles. 

For  Julienne  Faubonne. — Have  two  quarts  of  Julienne  and  one  quart  of  puree  of  peas 
mixed. 

For  Julienne  Mogul. — One  quart  of  Julienne,  one  quart  of  pure"eof  peas  and  one  quart  of 
puree  of  tomatoes. 

(319).  KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL  A  LA  BRIAND  (Jarrets  de  Veau  alaBriand), 
Put  into  a  stockpot  eight  quarts  of  broth  with  eight  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal;  boil  the  liquid, 
skim,  and  then  add  to  it  six  leeks,  two  celery  roots,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  freshly  roasted  young 
pullet  weighing  three  pounds,  continue  to  boil  till  the  meat  is  all  cooked.  After  the  knuckles 
are  done,  bone  them  and  set  the  meat  under  a  weight  to  flatten  it  down  to  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  into  quarter  of  an  inch  squares.  Take  the  chicken  out 
of  the  soup  as  soon  as  it  is  cooked,  and  set  it  away  to  cool,  then  cut  off  all  the  meat,  omitting  the 
skin  and  bones,  and  cut  this  meat  into  quarter  of  inch  squares.  Skim  the  fat  from  the  stock, 
strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  having  previously  washed  it,  add  the 
squares  of  chicken  and  veal  to  this,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  for  half  an  hour,  with  the  addition 
of  four  ounces  of  rice,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme,  half  a  pound  of  lean,  cooked  ham,  cut 
into  quarter  of  inch  squares,  and  eight  tomatoes,  plunged  into  boiling  water;  peel  off  the  skin 
then  cut  into  four,  and  squeezed  lightly  so  as  to  remove  the  seeds  ;  boil  again  for  twenty 
minutes,  skim  and  season  the  soup  to  taste  and  serve  very  hot.  Braised  lettuce  as  explained 
for  Garbure  soup  (No.  310)  to  be  served  in  a  separate  vegetable  dish. 

(320).  LAMB  OR  VEAL  SWEETBEEAD  SOUP,  GERMAN  STYLE  (Potage  de  ris  d'Agneau  on  de 

Veau  a  1'Allemande). 

Blanch  some  lamb  or  veal  sweetbreads,  by  placing  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  water  to 
cover  them;  let  the  liquid  boil,  then  remove  from  the  hot  fire,  until  they  are  firm  to  the  touch;  set 
them  under  a  weight  to  reduce  them  to  one  half  of  an  inch  thick,  when  cold  cut  them  up  in 
squares,  two  pounds  in  all.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  very,  hot,  lay  in 
the  sweetbreads  and  fry  them  slowly  without  coloring,  moisten  with  three  pints  of  broth,  and  three 
pints  of  veloute  (No.  415),  let  come  to  a  boil  while  stirring  continually,  and  then  cook  slowly 
until  the  sweetbreads  are  thoroughly  done  ;  thicken  the  soup  just  when  about  serving,  with  two 
egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter;  these  proportions  being  for  one 
quart  of  soup.  For  garnishing  fry  in  butter  all  the  fragments,  drain  off  the  butter,  set  them  aside 
to  cool,  and  chop  them  up  very  fine,  with  as  much  cooked  mushrooms,  and  mix  with  this  half  its 
quantity  of  veal  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  and  chopped  parsley;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg,  then  divide  this  preparation  into  equal  parts,  so  as  to  make  small  balls  five-eighths  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  lay  them  on  a  tin  sheet,  and  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven.  Have  some  noodles 
(No.  142)  cooked  in  salted  water:  pour  the  soup  into  a  soup-tureen,  and  add  to  it  the  quenelles, 
the  sweetbreads,  the  noodles  and  some  finely  chopped  parsley. 


SOUPS.  273 

\321).  LOBSTEB  AND  OEAWFISH  SOUP,  DUKE  ALEXIS  (Potage  de  Homard  et  d'Ecrevisses   an 

Due  Alexis). 

Mince  finely  some  carrots,  onions  and  celery;  fry  them  in  butter,  and  moisten  with  one 
quart  of  white  wine  and  two  quarts  of  broth,  adding  four  peeled  tomatoes  cut  in  two  and  pressed. 
Put  into  this  stock,  eighteen  crawfish,  let  them  boil  for  five  minutes,  then  lift  them  out,  and  put 
in  four  pounds  of  live  lobsters,  selecting  the  smallest  ones  procurable,  and  cook  them  for  half  an 
hour,  then  drain  them,  and  pick  out  all  their  meats,  keeping  aside  only  the  meat  from  the  claws, 
and  pounding  the  rest;  dilute  this  with  the  above  stock,  adding  one  quart  of  thickened  fish  soup 
stock  (No.  195);  strain  through  a  sieve  and  heat  up  to  boiling  point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil; 
thicken  it  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter,  the  proportion  being  two  raw  egg-yolks,  one 
gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter  for  each  quart  of  soup.  Detach  the  tails  from  the 
bodies  of  the  crawfish;  suppress  the  belly  side  so  as  to  keep  only  the  thin  shells  of  the  bodies,  and 
stuff  these  with  the  crawfish  meat,  chopped  up  fine  and  mixed  in  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fish 
forcemeat  made  with  crawfish,  butter  (No.  573),  season  well,  and  poach  them  in  boiling,  salted 
water.  Put  these  stuffed  bodies  into  the  soup  as  garnishing,  and  if  too  large  cut  them  in  two 
lengthwise. 

(322).  MENESTRONE  MILANESE  SOUP  (Potage  Menestrone  a  la  Milanaise). 
Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  fat  fresh  pork,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  clove  of  garlic,  half  a 
pound  of  raw  ham  cut  in  dice,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  square,  half  a  pound  of  string  beans,  cut 
lozenge  shape,  half  a  pound  of  small  flageolet  beans  and  half  a  pound  of  Kohl  sprouts  cut  in  quarter 
inch  squares.  Fry  all  these  vegetables  with  the  ham  in  the  chopped  up  fat  pork,  moisten  with  six 
quarts  of  broth,  boil,  skim,  then  add  one  pint  of  green  peas,  one  pound  of  asparagus  tops,  and 
half  a  pound  of  broad  or  lima  beans,  after  removing  their  outer  skins,  and  also  eight  medium 
peeled  and  quartered  tomatoes.  Boil  the  whole,  and  when  these  vegetables  are  nearly  done, 
twenty  minutes  before  serving,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  rice.  Cook  some  smoked 
sausages,  by  soaking  them  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  then  lift  them  out  and  peel  them; 
cut  into  slices,  and  put  them  into  the  soup;  suppress  the  clove  of  garlic,  and  serve  with  grated 
parmesan  separate. 

(323).  MARSHALL  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Marshall). 

Make  a  garnishing  of  stuffed  cucumbers,  by  peeling  three  small  cucumbers,  divide  them  cross- 
ways  into  parts  each  a  quarter  of  an  inch  high,  and  blanch  the  pieces  for  fifteen  minutes  in  salted 
water,  then  drain,  cut  out  the  center  with  a  three-quarter  inch  column  tube,  so  as  to  remove 
the  seeds;  fill  the  insides  with  a  raw  fine  herb  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  range  them  in  a 
saucepan  garnished  with  salt  pork;  moisten  them  with  broth,  add  some  salt,  cover  with  buttered 
paper,  and  leave  them  to  cook  slowly.  Despumate  on  the  side  of  the  fire  two  quarts  of  consomme, 
thickening  it  with  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  fecula  diluted  in  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine;  pour  the 
soup  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  the  cucumbers  at  the  same  time,  but  in  a  separate  vegetable  dish. 

(324).  MEISSONIER  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Meissonier). 

Despumate  on  the  side  of  the  range,  about  three  quarts  of  thickened  soup,  prepared  with 
mutton  broth.  Remove  the  fat  and  hard  parts  from  a  cold,  braised  saddle  of  mutton;  then  take 
one  pound  of  lean  meat  and  pound  it,  mixing  with  it  when  cold,  three  minced  white  onions  fried 
in  butter  and  cooked  in  consomme.  Pound  all  well  together,  and  rub  it  forcibly  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  put  this  puree  into  a  bowl  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  from  four  to  eight  raw  egg- 
yolks,  diluting  with  two  gills  of  cream.  At  the  last  moment  skim  the  fat  from  the  soup,  strain, 
and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  let  boil  up,  then  set  it  aside  and  thicken  it  at  once  with  the  above 
preparation;  heat  it  once  more  without  boiling,  and  finish  the  soup  with  a  piece  of  butter;  pour 
it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  with  a  plateful  of  hot,  small,  round  pieces  of  toasted  bread. 

(325).  MONTEILLE  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Monteille). 

Serve  a  chicken  consomme  (No.  190),  garnished  with  stuffed  lettuces  (No.  2752),  and  cucumbers 
prepared  as  follows:  Cut  off  the  ends  of  the  cucumbers,  peel  them  nicely,  and  divide  them  length- 
wise into  inch  pieces;  remove  the  seeds,  pare  them  to  resemble,  cloves  of  garlic,  then  fry  them  in 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  season,  and  finish  cooking  them  in  a  little  white  broth,  in  such  a  way  that 
they  are  thoroughly  done  when  the  liquid  is  entirely  reduced.  Serve  separately  the  lettuce  and 
cucumbers  in  a  vegetable  dish,  and  at  the  same  time  a  tureen  of  chicken  consomme. 


274  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(326).  MONTORGUEIL  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Montorgueil). 

Keep  boiling  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  one  and  a  half  quarts  of  thickened  chicken  soup  stock 
(No.  195),  despumating  it  for  forty  minutes.  Prepare  a  garnishing  of  tender  vegetables,  composed 
of  green  peas,  string  beans,  green  or  white  asparagus  tops,  small  Brussels  sprouts,  small  new 
carrots  whole  or  cut  up,  some  of  the  tender  leaves  picked  from  a  cabbage,  and  some  well  minced 
lettuce  and  sorrel  leaves.  These  vegetables  must  be  blanched  separately  according  to  their  nature, 
only  the  sorrel  leaves  remaining  raw.  One  hour  before  serving,  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  soup, 
strain  the  broth,  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  ;  boil  the  liquid  on  the  side  of  the  range,  add  the 
vegetables  according  to  their  tenderness,  the  hardest  ones  first,  and  finally  the  cut  up  leaves. 
Now  put  into  an  earthern  bowl,  five  or  six  egg-yolks,  dilute  them  with  a  little  cream,  add  some 
grated  nutmeg  and  a  few  small  pats  of  butter;  thicken  the  soup  with  this,  and  finish  with  a  small 
piece  more  butter,  mixed  with  some  spinach  green.  Pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve. 

(327),  MULLAGATAWNY  SOUP,  INDIAN  STYLE  (Potage  Mullagatawny  a  1'Indienne). 
Put  eight  quarts  of  broth  into  a  saucepan  with  two  knuckles  of  veal,  sawed  crosswise  into 
four  pieces,  and  some  fragments  of  chicken;  boil,  skim  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  mace  and  cloves;  boil  slowly  for  three 
hours,  then  remove  the  veal  knuckles  and  cut  off  all  the  meat  adhering  to  the  bones,  and  set  it 
under  a  weight  to  press  it  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  let  get  cool  and  cut  up  into  quarter  of 
inch  squares.  Strain  the  broth  through  a  sieve,  and  skim  off  the  fat.  Have  half  a  pound  of  carrots, 
half  a  pound  of  turnips,  half  a  pound  of  onions,  two  ounces  of  knob  celery,  six  apples  and  four 
ounces  of  ham,  all  well  minced,  adding  one  pound  of  boneless  chicken  meat,  after  removing  the 
skin  and  fat,  and  cutting  it  in  five-eighths  inch  squares.  Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
heat  it  well,  then  begin  first  by  frying  the  onions,  afterward  the  carrots,  turnips,  ham,  knob  celery, 
apples  and  chicken.  When  all  are  fried  and  slightly  colored,  add  to  them  six  tablespoon fuls  of 
flour,  mixing  it  in  well,  then  dilute  with  the  broth,  let  boil  and  continue  to  boil  until  every  article 
is  well  cooked;  season  and  add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  curry,  and  a  little  sugar,  drain,  remove  the 
pieces  of  chicken  and  press  the  vegetables  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  puree  back  into  the  saucepan, 
return  it  to  the  fire  with  the  veal  and  chicken,  and  stir  from  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  until 
boiling  point.  Let  simmer  for  twenty-five  minutes,  taste  and  see  if  the  seasoning  be  correct,  then 
serve.  Send  to  the  table  at  the  same  time,  some  rice  boiled  in  salted  water,  mixing  in  some  lard 
or  butter. 

(328).  MUSSEL  SOUP  A  LA  VIGO  (Potage  de  Monies  a  la  Vigo). 

For  Ten  Persons. — Take  two  ounces  or  one  medium  sized  onion,  cut  it  in  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  squares,  and  fry  brownless  in  some  butter,  add  to  this  sixty  medium  mussels  previously 
cooked  in  very  little  water  and  white  wine  (no  salt),  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  when  the  shells 
open  they  are  clone,  remove  them  from  the  shells  ;  from  each  one  remove  the  black  and  nervous 
part,  being  careful  not  to  break  them  while  doing  so.  Strain  the  broth,  let  it  settle  so  as  to  be 
able  to  pour  off  the  clear  top,  put  a  little  of  the  broth  with  the  mussels  and  keep  them  warm.  Put 
the  rest  of  the  broth  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  thickened  lean  fish  stock  (No.  195).  Boil 
and  despumate  for  ten  minutes,  then  thicken  with  six  egg-yolks,  diluted  in  half  a  pint  of  cream 
and  four  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Put  into  the  soup  tureen  four  ounces  of  mushrooms  cut  in  small 
Julienne,  also  the  mussels  ;  pour  the  boiling  soup  over  and  serve. 

> 

(329).  MUTTON  A  LA  OOWLEY  AND  MUTTON  HOOHEPOT  (Mouton  a  la  Cowley  et  Mouton  a 

la  Hochepot). 

Bone  and  remove  carefully  the  skin,  nerves,  and  fat  from  three  necks  of  mutton,  cutting  the 
meat  into  three-eighth  inch  squares.  Put  into  a  saucepan  the  fragments,  bones  and  parings  taken 
from  the  necks,  also  a  split  knuckle  of  veal;  moisten  with  eight  quarts  of  broth,  and  put  it  on  the 
fire  in  order  to  boil  the  liquid;  skim,  and  add  some  carrots,  turnips,  bunch  of  celery,  leeks,  and 
onions,  all  minced  up  fine,  seasoning  with  pepper,  salt,  and  cloves.  Boil  slowly  and  uninterrupt- 
edly for  two  hours;  then  skim  off  the  fat,  and  strain  the  broth  through  a  sieve.  Put  six  ounces  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  four  ounces  of  one-eighth  inch  squares  of  onions;  add  four  ounces  of 
leeks  cut  Julienne  shape,  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of  turnips,  two  ounces  of  celery, 
all  being  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  the  meat  from  the  necks  previously  prepared; 


SOUPS.  275 

moistening  the  whole  with  the  broth,  and  cook  for  two  hours.  Then  free  it  from  fat,  season  and 
add  a  garnishing  of  small  chicken  quenelles  (No.  154),  shaped  as  large  peas  and  a  pluche  of  chervil 
A  supplementary  garnishing  may  be  added  of  rice,  or  of  pearl  barley. 

For  Mutton  Hochepot,  use  the  mutton  the  same  as  explained  for  the  above,  adding  for  each 
quart  of  broth,  one  pint  of  the  puree  of  dried  peas,  and  half  a  pint  of  puree  of  spinach.  For  all 
mixed  clear  soups,  the  consistency  should  be  approximately  after  the  soup  is  drained,  two-thirds  of 
liquid  to  one-third  of  solid  matter,  while  for  thick  soups,  three-quarters  liquid  to  one-quarter 
solid. 

(330).  NOODLE  SOTIP  WITH  PARMESAN  CHEESE  (Potage  aux  Nouilles  au  Parmesan). 

For  the  Paste.—  Sift  through  a  fine  sieve,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  moisten  it  with  four  egg- 
yolks  and  one  whole  egg,  adding  a  little  salt  and  water;  work  well  together  and  knead  it  till  tho 
paste  is  thoroughly  well  mixed,  roll  it  down  to  one-sixteenth  inch  in  thickness;  let  it  dry  in  the  open 
air;  then  fold  it  up,  one  inch  and  a  half  wide,  and  cut  this  into  fine  strips,  dredging  them  over 
with  flour,  to  prevent  them  sticking  together;  blanch  them  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  one  minute, 
then  drain  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  consomme  to  simmer  for  five  minutes;  remove 
all  the  fat  from  the  top,  and  serve  in  a  soup  tureen  with  some  good  consomme".  Serve  separately 
some  grated  parmesan  cheese. 

(331).  ONION  SOUP  WITH  PARMESAN  CHEESE  BROWNED,  AND  THICKENED  ONION  SOUP 
(Soupe  k  1'Oignon  et  au  Parmesan  Gratin6  et  Soupe  a  1'Oignon  lie"e). 

Cut  into  small  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  two  medium  or  four  ounces  of  onions,  fry  them 
in  butter  and  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  chervil, 
bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  some  meat  extract;  boil  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  remove  the  bouquet,  and  pour  the  soup  over  very  thin  slices  of  bread  placed 
in  a  metal  soup  tureen,  in  intervening  layers  of  bread  and  cheese,  parmesan,  finishing  with  the 
parmesan,  and  sprinkle  a  little  over  the  top  of  the  soup.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Onion  Soup  Thickened. — To  prepare  onion  soup  cut  up  two  medium  onions,  mince  them 
finely,  and  fry  them  colorless  in  butter,  adding  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  flour,  and  cooking  it  a  few 
moments  with  the  onions,  then  dilute  with  two  quarts  of  broth.  Season  with  pepper  and  a  little 
salt,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  thicken  the  soup  with  raw  egg-yolks 
diluted  in  cream,  and  a  little  fine  butter.  Pour  the  soup  over  round,  thin  slices  of  bread,  about 
one  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  dried  in  the  oven. 

(332).  OXTAIL  SOUP  A  LA  SOYER  (Potage  de  Queue  de  Boeuf  a  la  Soyer). 

Cut  three  oxtails  into  small  pieces  from  the  thin  end,  stopping  at  the  third  joint  from  the  thick 
end,  and  keep  this  large  piece  aside  for  braising  (No.  1324).  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  saucepan;  cut  four  ounces  of  the  red  part  of  a  carrot,  and  the  same  quantity  of  turnip 
into  quarter  inch  squares,  add  these  to  the  butter  after  it  is  hot,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished 
with  one  bay  leaf,  and  fry  without  letting  attain  a  color,  then  add  three  tablespoon fuls  of  flour  and 
the  tails;  cook  all  together  to  a  light  brown,  afterward  moistening  with  four  quarts  of  broth, 
and  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  onions,  cut  in  squares.  Season  with  salt  and  Worces- 
tershire sauce,  boil  slowly  and  continuously  until  the  meat  is  done.  Have  cooked  separately  for 
three  hours  in  some  white  broth,  two  ounces  of  pearl  barley,  add  this  to  the  soup,  also  one  gill  of 
sherry  when  serving.  If  clear  oxtail  be  needed,  suppress  the  flour  and  barley,  and  thicken  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water. 

(333).  OYSTER  SOUP,  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Soupe  aux  Huitres  U'Ame"ricaine). 

For  Ten  Persons. — Put  sixty  medium  oysters  including  their  juice,  and  as  much  water,  into 
a  tin  saucepan  with  a  perforated  cover  (Fig.  186),  specially  made  for  this  soup;  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  set  them  on  a  quick  fire;  as  soon  as  the  steam  escapes  through  the  holes  on  the 
cover,  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  pour  into  it  two  and  a  half  gills  ot  milk,  and  two  and 
a  half  ounces  of  butter,  then  serve.  In  those  establishments  whose  specialty  is  oysters,  before 
serving  oyster  soup,  they  place  before  each  person  a  plateful  of  finely  minced  raw  cabbage  (cold 
slaw);  this  cabbage  is  to  be  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  tomato  catsup. 


276  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(334),  OYSTEE  SOUP  A  LA  OEUTST  (Soupe  aux  Huitres  a  la  Cruyst), 

For  Ten  Persons. — Mince  up  the  white  part  of  a  small  leek,  and  cut  one  small  onion  into  one- 
eighth  inch  squares;  fry  these  colorless  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs, 
frying  it  in  with  the  onion,  and  also  sixty  oysters  with  their  own  juice  and  a  quart  and  a  half  of 
fish  broth.  Set  the  saucepan  over  a  quick  fire,  and  stir  vigorously  to  prevent  the  oysters  from 
sticking  to  the  bottom,  then  skim,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  when  ready  to  serve 
thicken  the  soup  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter,  the  proportions  for  each  quart  being, 
two  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Stir  in  also,  when  serving,  a  little 
chopped  parsley. 

(335).  OYSTER  SOUP,  TRENCH  STYLE  (Soupe  aux  Huitres  a  la  Trangaise), 

Cut  two  ounces  of  onions  into  eighth  of  an  inch  squares;  fry  them  without  coloring  in  some 
butter,  and  add  sixty  medium  oysters  with  as  much  water  as  there  is  oyster  juice;  then  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  remove  again  at  the  first  boil,  lay  the 
oysters  into  a  soup  tureen  and  strain  the  broth  through  a  fine  sieve,  returning  it  to  the  fire  to  add 
to  it  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter,  the  pro- 
portions for  each  quart  being,  three  raw  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  good 
butter.  Make  a  garnishing  of  pike  quenelles  (No.  90),  adding  to  it  some  cooked  fine  herbs;  another 
garnishing  may  also  be  used,  composed  of  round  bread  croutons,  each  one  inch  in  diameter, 
sprinkled  over  with  butter  and  browned  in  the  oven;  serve  these  separately,  but  at  the  same  time  as 
the  soup. 

(336),  OYSTEE  SOUP  WITH  POWDEEED  OKEA  OE  GUMBO  (Soupe  aux  Huitres  an  Gombo  en 

poudre). 

Mince  a  two  ounce  onion  finely,  fry  it  in  two  ounces  of  butter  without  letting  it  attain  a  color, 
then  add  sixty  medium  oysters  with  their  juice,  and  the  same  quantity  of  water,  season  with  salt 
and  red  pepper,  then  place  the  saucepan  on  a  quick  fire  and  remove  at  the  first  boil;  skim  and 
thicken  with  two  spoonfuls  of  powdered  gumbo  for  each  quart  of  soup.  Have  some  rice  boiled  in 
salted  water;  when  done,  mix  in  with  it  a  little  butter  and  set  it  in  a  buttered  mold,  place  it  in  a 
hot  oven  for  ten  minutes  and  serve  this  separately,  but  at  the  same  time  as  the  soup,  after 
unmolding  it. 

(337),  SOUP  WITH  OYSTEE  RAVIOLES  (Soupe  aux  Eavioles  d'Huitres). 

Poach  in  white  wine  three  or  four  dozen  large  oysters,  drain  them,  and  keep  the  broth;  cut  the 
oysters  into  small  dice,  and  thicken  this  salpicon  with  three  spoonfuls  of  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90), 
and  as  much  reduced  bechamel  (No.  409).  With  this  salpicon  and  some  raviole  paste  (No.  147),  rolled 
out  very  thin,  prepare  some  small  round  ravioles,  cutting  them  out  with  a  pastry  cutter  one  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  diameter.  Put  to  boil  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  three  quarts  of  thickened  fish  stock 
(No.  195);  add  to  this  the  oyster  broth,  and  despumate  the  whole  for  twenty-five  minutes;  at  the 
last  moment  remove  all  the  fat,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  a  thickening  of  four  or  five  egg-yolks, 
cream,  butter,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  add 
to  it  the  ravioles,  previously  cooked  for  twelve  minutes  in  salted  water. 

(338),  PAETEIDGE  SOUP  A  LA  EOYALE  (Potage  de  Perdreau  a  la  Eoyale). 

Put  to  boil  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  two  quarts  of  thickened  game  stock  (No.  195).  Pound  the 
meat  taken  from  the  breasts  of  two  cooked  and  cold  partridges;  press  them  forcibly  through  a 
sieve,  and  put  this  pure"e  into  a  bowl  to  dilute  with  seven  or  eight  egg-yolks,  and  a  few  spoonful? 
of  raw  cream;  season  it  to  taste.  Fill  small  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  2.  Fig.  137)  with  this  prep- 
aration, poach  them  (No.  152).  Break  up  the  partridge  bones,  add  them  to  the  soup,  also  a  bunch 
of  aromatic  herbs,  and  some  mushroom  parings.  Twenty  minutes  later  skim  off  the  fat,  season 
and  strain  the  soup  through  a  tammy,  and  return  it  again  to  the  saucepan;  boil  it  up  twice,  and 
then  stir  in  four  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  meanwhile  keeping  it  very  hot.  At  the  last  moment 
unmotd  the  small  poached  timbales;  put  in  the  soup  tureen,  and  gently  pour  the  soup  over  them. 


SOUPS.  277 

(339).  ITALIAN  OR  GENOA  PASTES;  LASAGNE,  LASAGNETTE,  TAGLIABELLI,  MAOOARONI, 
VERMICELLI,  SPAGHETTI,  PAILLETTES,  MAOOARONOELLI,  FLORENCE  SNOW 
(Pate  d'ltalie  ou  de  Genes ;  Lasagne,  Lasagnette,  Tagliarelli,  Maccaroni,  Vermicelli,  Spaghetti, 
Paillettes,  Maccaroncelli  et  Neige  de  Florence), 

All  these  various  pastes  are  to  be  previously  blanched  by  throwing  them  into  boiling  water  for 
five  or  ten  minutes  according  to  their  respective  thickness.  When  blanched,  drain  them,  and 
finish  cooking  in  broth  or  consomme,  the  proportion  being  half  a  pound  of  paste  to  three  or  four 
quarts  of  liquid.  Put  the  paste  into  a  soup  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over,  serving  at  the  same 
time  on  a  separate  plate,  some  grated  parmesan  cheese. 

Lasagne,  Lasagnette  and  Tagliarelli. — Blanch  of  these  one  half  pound  for  five  minutes, 
cook  them  in  a  quart  of  broth,  and  serve  in  a  tureen  with  consomme. 

Maccaroni,  Spaghetti,  Vermicelli,  Paillettes,  Maccaroncelli.— For  the  large  macaroni,  blanch 
half  a  pound  for  twelve  minutes  or  less  in  proportion  to  their  thickness,  when  done,  drain,  and 
cook  them  in  a  quart  of  broth.  Serve  in  a  soup  tureen  with  consomme. 

Italian  or  Genoa  Pastes  and  Vermicelli. — Blanch  half  a  pound  of  these  for  five  minutes,  drain 
and  cook  them  in  a  quart  of  broth,  serve  in  a  soup  tureen  with  consomme. 

Florence  Snow. — Florence  snow  is  made  of  fine  gluten  paste,  extremely  white  and  distributed 
into  very  fine  shavings.  This  paste  does  not  require  any  cooking;  range  it  on  plates  and  pass  it 
round  to  the  guests,  after  serving  the  soup,  when  each  one  takes  some  if  so  desired.  This  paste 
dissolves  as  soon  as  it  conies  in  contact  with  a  hot  liquid. 

(340).  PATERSON  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Paterson). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  three  quarts  of  broth,  and  when  boiling,  dredge  into  it 
five  spoonfuls  of  tapioca;  let  it  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes,  being  careful  to  remove  all  the  scum 
arising  on  the  surface,  then  strain  and  keep  it  warm.  Have  a  garnishing  of  timbales  of  puree  of 
green  peas  made  as  follows:  One  pint  of  puree  of  green  peas,  into  which  mix  one  whole  egg  and 
four  yolks,  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg;  pour  this  into  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137),  place 
the  molds  in  a  pan  with  water  to  half  their  height,  and  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  unmold  and  cut 
them  in  two  crosswise;  have  also  small  three-eighths  of  an  inch  pearl  quenelles  (No.  154),  also 
some  mushrooms  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares. 

(341).  PILATJ,   TURKISH  STYLE  (Pilau  a  la  Turque), 

Put  two  knuckles  of  veal  into  a  saucepan  with  eight  quarts  of  broth,  a  few  slices  of  raw  ham, 
one  chicken,  and  a  roasted  shoulder  of  lamb;  boil  up  the  liquid,  skim,  and  add  to  it  three  carrots, 
two  turnips,  one  celery  stalk,  six  leeks,  two  onions,  and  two  cloves;  continue  to  boil  slowly,  till 
each  one  of  the  meats  is  done,  then  take  them  out  as  fast  as  cooked;  strain  the  broth,  remove  all 
the  fat,  and  clarify  it,  then  reduce  it  one-quarter.  Cut  the  chicken  into  small  pieces,  and  put 
them  into  the  soup;  mince  the  shoulder  of  lamb,  cut  the  ham  into  small  dice,  and  after  placing  the 
knuckle  of  veal  under  a  weight  to  get  cool,  cut  it  up  into  squares,  and  add  all  these  to  the  soup, 
with  some  salt,  red  pepper,  a  slight  infusion  of  saffron,  and  half  a  pound  of  blanched  Sultana 
raisins.  Parboil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling,  salted  water,  drain,  and 
put  it  into  three  pints  of  boiling  white  broth;  at  the  first  boil,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  cover, 
and  finish  cooking  in  a  cool  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes;  when  done,  put  it  into  the  soup  and 
serve. 

(342).  POT-AU-FEU  (Pot-au-feu). 

For  Sixteen  Persons. — Have  a  soup-pot  of  enameled  or  lined  cast-iron  containing  sixteen  quarts 
of  liquid;  put  into  it  a  piece  of  boned,  rolled  and  tied  up,  rump  of  beef  weighing  eight  pounds  and 
eight  quarts  of  water  or  beef  stock.  Put  the  pot  on  the  fire;  heat  it  so  as  to  bring  the  liquid  to  a 
boil,  then  skim  it  off  carefully  at  the  first  boil,  and  set  the  pot  back  from  the  hot  fire.  Roast  the 
bones  taken  from  the  meat,  also  one  pound  of  knuckle  of  veal  and  some  chicken  giblets,  add  them 
to  the  soup,  and  leave  it  on  one  side  or  on  a  gas  stove,  watching  it  well  to  see  that  it  boils  slowly 
and  continuously,  on  one  side  only,  so  as  to  obtain  a  very  clear  broth;  let  the  meats  cook  for  four 
or  five  hours,  more  or  less  according  to  their  thickness  and  tenderness,  and  when  the  beef  is  Kalf 
done,  strain  slowly  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  without  disturbing  it.  Remove  the  piece  of  run^ix, 
empty  the  pot,  clean  it  well,  and  return  to  it  the  meat  and  the  broth,  after  having  partially  removed 


278  THE    EPICUREAN. 

the  fat,  then  put  the  saucepan  back  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil  mix  to  it  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
the  white  part  of  leeks  tied  together,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  large  carrots,  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  turnips,  half  a  pound  of  celery-knob  or  root,  one  medium  onion  with  two  cloves  and  one 
ounce  of  parsnips,  then  add  one  or  two  young  chickens  weighing  three  pounds  each,  trussed 
and  browned  in  the  oven.  Continue  to  boil  all  very  slowly,  being  careful  to  remove  the 
chicken  and  meat  as  fast  as  they  are  done;  also  the  vegetables,  keeping  them  warm.  Saw 
sixteen  pieces  from  a  marrow-bone  each  one  inch  long,  wrap  them  up  in  separate  pieces 
of  linen,  tie  them,  and  poach  them  for  eight  minutes  in  the  boiling  broth.  At  the 
last  moment  salt  and  color  the  broth  properly,  and  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  or  a 
damp  napkin,  keeping  it  warm.  Have  two  vegetable  dishes  of  braised  cabbage,  the  leeks,  carrots, 
turnips,  and  celery  arranged  in  clusters,  and  neatly  trimmed  so  that  every  person  may  be  able 
to  help  himself  to  one  or  the  other  as  desired.  Toast,  or  butter,  and  then  color  in  the  oven, 
thirty-two  croutons  of  bread  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  by  one  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter,  also  have  the  sixteen  pieces  of  prepared  marrow.  Pour  the  soup  into  the  soup  tureen, 
and  send  the  vegetables  to  the  table,  separately,  also  the  croutons  and  marrow.  When  serving 
the  soup,  put  into  each  plate  a  piece  of  marrow  bone,  two  croutons  and  some  soup,  and  pass  the 
dishes  containing  the  vegetables  around  separate.  The  boiled  beef  can  be  served  at  the  same  time, 
dressing  it  on  to  a  dish,  and  surrounding  it  with  the  chicken  cut  in  pieces,  and  branches  of 
parsley;  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauceboat  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(343).  EIOE  SOUP  A  LA  RUDINI  (Potage  an  riz  a  la  Kudini). 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  picked  and  washed  rice  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  quarts  of  cold 
water,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  occasionally  to  prevent  the  rice  from  sticking  to  the  bottom;  let  it 
boil  up  once,  then  refresh  it,  finish  cooking  it  in  consomme  with  a  piece  of  fine  butter,  and  a  pinch  of 
black  pepper;  mingle  in  with  it  when  done,  three  ounces  of  grated  parmesan  cheese,  four  raw  egg- 
yolks,  and  set  it  away  to  get  cold.  Divide  this  preparation  into  small  five-eighth  inch  diameter 
balls  ;  a  few  moments  before  serving  roll  them  on  to  a  dish  containing  two  beaten  eggs,  drain  them 
and  put  them  one  by  one  into  new  frying  fat  not  too  hot,  and  let  them  assume  a  nice  golden  color; 
then  drain  them  again,  and  dry  them  in  a  napkin.  Have  two  quarts  of  thickened  chicken  broth 
(No.  195),  bring  it  to  a  boil,  and  remove  it  from  the  fire.  Place  four  egg-yolks  in  a  bowl,  dilute  them 
with  one  gill  of  cold  broth,  add  four  ounces  of  fine  butter  divided  in  small  pieces,  pour  slowly  into 
this  thickening  a  quarter  of  the  stock  while  stirring  continually;  return  it  to  the  rest  of  the  stock, 
working  it  in  briskly  with  a  whisk,  season  to  taste;  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy.  Pour  this 
into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  separate  a  garnishing  of  the  rice  balls,  and  a  plateful  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese. 

(344).  SHERMAN  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Sherman). 

Have  a  garnishing  of  stuffed  cabbage  leaves,  prepared  as  follows:  Blanch  some  cabbage 
leaves,  drain  and  trim  them  nicely,  then  fill  the  insides  with  a  quenelle  and  cooked  fine  herb  force- 
meat (No.  89),  roll  them  up  and  lay  them  one  beside  the  other,  cover  them  with  bouillon  and  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper,  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  two  hours,  being  careful  to  add  some  moistening  when 
they  become  too  reduced.  Cut  some  carrots  into  three-eighth  inch  balls,  blanch  and  cook  them  in 
broth  ;  prepare  a  pluche  of  chervil;  chervil  leaves  free  of  stalks,  thrown  into  boiling  water  for  one 
minute,  then  drained.  Cut  the  cooked  cabbage  in  slices  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  leaves,  lay  them 
on  a  deep  dish,  and  dust  over  some  grated  parmesan  cheese,  over  this  place  some  thin  slices  of 
buttered  bread  browned  in  the  oven,  then  another  layer  of  cabbage,  cheese  and  bread;  pour  over 
some  very  fat  broth,  besprinkle  grated  parmesan  on  top,  and  bake  in  the  oven.  Pour  some  con- 
somme into  a  soup  tureen,  add  the  carrots  and  chervil,  and  serve  the  baked  cabbage  apart. 

(345),  SHRIMP  SOUP,  MIGNON  (Potage  aux  Orevettes  Mignon). 

Keep  boiling  on  the  side  of  the  fire  one  quart  and  a  half  of  thickened  fish  stock  (No.  195). 
Break  off  the  tails  from  a  hundred  cooked  red  shrimps,  pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  trim  them 
and  pound  the  parings  with  one-third  of  the  picked  tails,  selecting  the  smallest  ones  for  this;  also 
a  piece  of  butter  and  four  egg-yolks,  then  press  all  through  a  sieve;  keep  the  puree  in  a  cool  place, 
also  the  remainder  of  the  picked  tails  cut  in  small  dice.  Put  into  the  boiling  soup  half  of  the 
pounded  shells;  with  a  smallest  size  root  spoon,  five-sixteenth  of  an  inch,  cut  out  some  very  small 
cooked  truffle  balls,  and  set  these  into  another  small  saucepan;  divide  into  two  equal  parts  the 
value  of  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  raw  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  CM o.  90);  into  one  mix  some  Breton 


SOUPS.  279 

carmine,  leaving  the  other  half  white  ;  place  these  two  forcemeats  separately  into  a  paper  cornet, 
and  push  them  through  on  to  a  buttered  baking  sheet  to  form  beads;  poach  them  separately  in 
salted  water,  drain  and  lay  them  in  the  soup  tureen.  From  one  quart  of  shelled  green  peas  select 
one  to  two  gills  of  the  smallest  and  tenderest,  and  boil  them  in  water;  when  drained,  add  them  to 
the  quenelles  in  the  soup  tureen.  After  the  soup  is  well  despumated,  remove  all  its  grease  and 
strain  it  through  a  tammy;  return  it  to  a  clean  saucepan,  let  it  boil,  adding  to  it  three  spoonfuls 
of  Madeira  wine;  two  minutes  later,  thicken  it  with  the  shrimp  puree  and  cook  this  thickening 
without  letting  it  boil.  Remove,  and  finish  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper  and  a  piece  of  red 
butter.  Pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen,  add  to  it  the  shrimp  tails,  butter  and  truffles,  and  serve  at  once. 

(346).  SMALL  INDIVIDUAL  SOUP-POTS  (Petites  Marmites  Individuelles). 
There  are  two  different  ways  of  serving  these.     The  first  by  making  the  soup  in  small  soup-pots 
each  one  containing  one-half  a  quart  or  more,  diminishing  the  proportions  of  meat,  vegetables  and 
liquid,  either  of  water  or  broth,  after  the  proportions  indicated  in  the  pot-au-feu  (No.  342).     The 

second  is  to  serve  the  pot-au-feu  when  it  is  ready,  with  the 
contents,  dividing  it  into  small  individual  pots,  making  an 
equal  division  of  the  meats,  vegetables  and  liquid,  into  as  many 
parts  as  there  are  half  quarts  of  soup;  and  divide  as  well  the 
meats,  vegetables,  and  liquid  into  small  two  quart  pots,  having 
the  meats  and  vegetables  the  same  size  as  for  the  pint  ones;  for 
the  one  or  the  other  use  only  half  the  beef  meat  well  pared;  the 
carrots,  turnips,  and  celery  cut  into  cylindricals,  and  divided 
into  small  parts,  and  each  chicken  into  sixteen  pieces;  (Before 
using  the  small  stone  pots,  they  should  be  lined  with  the  frag- 
ments of  the  chickens  and  vegetables,  aromatics  and  spices,  and 
cooked  in  the  oven  for  twelve  hours,  pouring  at  intervals  boiling 
water  into  them,  so  that  they  remain  always  full,  then  washed 

well  out  before  using.)  After  the  pots  are  filled,  pour  over  the  very  hot  broth,  adding  a  table- 
spoonful  of  braised  cabbage  and  the  leeks  divided,  then  boil  the  contents  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  for  each  pint  four  marrow  bones  sawed  into  inch  thick  pieces. 
Dress  them  over  napkins  on  a  plate.  Each  guest  should  have  his  individual  soup-pot  containing  a 
little  over  a  pint,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  slices  of  toasted  bread  or  bread  buttered  and  browned 
in  the  oven,  the  size  being  three-sixteenths  by  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter. 

(347).  SOKEEL,  SORREL  WITH  HERBS,  AND  SORREL  FLEMISH  STYLE  (Oseille,  Oseille  aux 

Herbes  et  Oseille  a  la  Flamande). 

Remove  the  stalks  from  a  good  handful  of  sorrel,  mince  it  up  fine,  then  fry  it  in  two  ounces 
of  good  butter,  and  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth  or  water;  season  with  salt  and  a  dash  of  sugar, 
and  let  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Cut  thin  slices  from  some  French  rolls,  butter  them,  and  put  them 
in  the  hot  oven  to  brown;  set  them  in  the  soup  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over. 

Sorrel  with  Herbs. — Sorrel  soup  may  also  be  made  by  mincing  fine  a  small  handful  of  sorrel, 
half  as  much  lettuce,  and  quarter  as  much  chervil  as  lettuce.  Melt  and  heat  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  herbs,  fry  them,  and  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  and  a  half  of 
broth  or  water,  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  and  just  before  serving  pour  in  gradually  a  thickening 
of  four  egg-yolks,  a  gill  of  cream,  and  one  ounce  of  fine  butter.  A  garnishing  may  be  served  of 
croutons  dried  in  the  oven,  o'r  some  vermicelli. 

Flemish  Style.— For  sorrel,  Flemish  style,  prepare  the  soup  as  in  the  first  article  above; 
the  only  difference  to  observe  is,  that  before  putting  in  the  sorrel,  fry  some  leeks,  onions,  potatoes 
and  artichoke  bottoms,  all  minced  up  very  fine;  add  the  sorrel,  and  finish  as  for  the  above. 
Serve  with  a  garnishing  of  rice  cooked  in  white  broth,  and  some  green  peas. 

(348).  SPAGHETTI  WITH  CREAM  (Spaghetti  a  la  Creme). 

Melt  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  adding  two  dessert  spoonfuls  of  flour;  cook  the  flour 
slowly,  so  as  to  make  a  blond  roux,  then  dilute  with  two  quarts  of  consomme,  stir  the  liquid  until 
it  boils,  move  it  aside  at  once,  and  continue  to  boil  slowly  and  uninterruptedly  for  twenty-five 
minutes,  strain  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  put  it  back  into  a  clean  saucepan.  Cook  in  salted 
water,  some  spaghetti  macaroni,  drain  it  and  cut  it  up  in  one  inch  length  pieces,  having  about  one 


280  THE    EPICUREAN. 

pound,  and  put  this  in  with  the  consomme.  Place  in  a  bowl  four  raw  egg-yolks,  with  two  ounces 
of  grated  parmesan,  dilute  it  with  two  gills  of  raw  cream,  and  one  ounce  of  butter;  pour  this 
thickening  into  the  soup,  and  let  heat  without  boiling;  season,  and  serve  it  in  a  soup  tureen.  The 
spaghetti  can  be  replaced  by  any  of  the  Italian  pastes. 

(349).  SPANISH  OILLA  (Oilla  a  1'Espagnole). 

Put  to  soak  in  tepid  water  for  twelve  hours,  half  a  pound  of  chick  peas  (Garbanzos).  Set  in 
an  earthen  pot,  or  any  other  kind,  six  pounds  of  lean  breast  of  beef,  three  pounds  of  leg  of  mut- 
ton cut  near  the  knee  bone,  half  a  pound  of  unsmoked  salt  pork,  cut  in  one  piece  and  then  blanched, 
and  half  a  pound  of  smoked  ham,  well  pared  and  blanched.  Cover  with  water,  add  the  garbonzos 
boil  and  skim,  maintaining  a  slow  ebullition.  Two  hours  after,  put  in  the  broth,  one  fowl,  two 
pai'tridges,  a  piece  of  squash  weighing  one  pound,  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of  onions, 
a  bunch  of  parsley  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  clove  of  garlic,  and  one  pound  of  chorissos  sausages  (garlic 
sausage).  Blanch  twelve  lettuce  heads,  also  two  cabbages  cut  in  four.  After  removing  the  cores 
(the  hard  part),  take  out  the  meats  as  soon  as  they  are  severally  done,  cool  them  partially,  and  then 
cut  them  into  half  inch  squares.  Strain  the  broth  through  a  napkin,  pour  it  in  a  soup  tureen  with 
rice  cooked  in  fat  broth,  and  if  the  meats  should  not  be  added  to  the  soup,  serve  them  separately 
as  a  garnishing,  by  cutting  them  up  in  slices,  and  arranging  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish.  The  chicken 
in  the  center,  a  partridge  on  each  side,  the  lettuces  on  one  side,  the  chick  peas  on  the  other,  the 
cabbages  on  the  ends,  and  the  sausages  cut  into  slices  and  laid  on  top  of  the  cabbage.  A 
tomato  sauce  served  separately,  also  a  green  sauce  a  Tespagnole  (No.  473). 

(350).  TERRAPIN,  CLEAR,  THICK  OR  WHITE  (Terrapene  au  Olair,  Lie~e  ou  a  Blanc). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  terrapin  as  told  in  No.  1082,  observing  all  the  instructions  given  for 
the  preparation  of  these  turtles. 

For  Clear  Terrapin. — When  the  terrapins  are  cooked,  select  the  largest  ones,  bone  them  entirely, 
and  cut  up  the  pieces  found  to  be  too  large,  and  being  more  than  one  inch;  it  will  require  one 
pound  and  a  half.  Prepare  a  stock  the  same  as  for  clear  turtle  (No.  353),  thicken  with  arrowroot 
or  else  fecula,  when  the  stock  is  ready  and  nicely  seasoned,  add  the  terrapin  to  it,  boil  it  up  for  a 
few  minutes  and  finish  the  soup  with  some  brandy  and  Madeira  wine.  Serve  separately  the  pulp 
of  two  lemons,  two  hard  boiled,  chopped  up  eggs,  and  some  chopped  parsley,  the  whole  on  one  or 
several  plates,  together  or  each  article  separate. 

For  Thick  Terrapin  Sonp. — Make  it  exactly  the  same  as  the  clear  terrapin,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  using  the  same  stock  as  for  thick  green  turtle  soup  (No.  353). 

For  Terrapin  Soup,  White. — Prepare  it  as  for  the  above,  only  thickening  it  with  veloute"  (No. 
415);  diluting  it  with  chicken  broth  (for  lean  use  lean  veloute  and  fish  broth).  Boil,  skim,  season 
properly,  then  add  when  ready  to  serve,  some  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter,  the  propor 
tions  being  two  raw  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter  for  each  quart. 

(351).  DRIED  TURTLE,  THICK  A.ND  CLEAR  (Tortue  Seche  Lie"e  et  Claire). 

Dry. — This  green  turtle  comes  from  South  America;  it  is  raw  and  dried  in  pieces;  the  only 
parts  being  used  for  drying  are  the  cutaneous  ones.  When  the  dried  turtle  is  needed  put  it  first  to 
soak  in  cold  water  for  two  or  three  days,  changing  the  water  frequently.  Half  a  pound  of  dry 
turtle  suffices  to  make  soup  for  eight  persons;  when  the  pieces  have  softened,  put  them  into  a  small 
stock-pot  with  six  quarts  of  water,  adding  to  it  a  piece  of  shin  of  beef,  weighing  two  pounds;  a 
two  pound  piece  of  neck  of  veal,  a  three  pound  chicken,  two  or  three  chicken  giblets,  a  bone  of 
cooked  ham,  carrots,  celery,  a  bunch  of  marjoram,  savory,  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf.  Cook 
the  meats  the  same  as  for  a  pot-a-feu  (No.  342),  either  on  the  gas,  or  on  the  back  of  the  range,  and 
as  soon  as  the  pieces  of  turtle  are  done,  remove  them  and  plunge  them  into  cold  water;  then  cut 
them  into  one  inch  and  a  quarter  squares,  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  consomme;  skim 
off  the  fat  from  the  soup,  strain,  and  set  about  two  quarts  of  it  into  a  saucepan;  thicken  it  with 
blond  roux  (No.  163),  despumate  the  soup  while  allowing  it  to  boil  slowly,  remove  all  the  fat, 
and  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  also  two  gills  of  good  Madeira  wine.  Put  the  pieces  of 
turtle  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over.  Should  the  turtle  be  needed  clear,  then  sup- 
press the  roux,  clarify  the  broth,  and  thicken  it  with  arrowroot  or  potato  fecula.  Serve  slices  of 
lemon  at  the  same  time. 


SOUPS.  281 

(352.)  PREPARATION  OF  A  GREEN  TURTLE  WEIGHING  ONE  HUNDRED  POUNDS  (Prepara- 

tion  d'une  Tortue  pesant  cent  livres). 

Lay  the  turtle  on  its  back,  and  when  it  stretches  out  his  head,  seize  it  with  one  hand,  and 
holding  a  knife  in  the  other,  cut  its  neck,  leave  it  to  bleed,  then  lay  it  again  on  its  back,  pass  the 
knife  along  the  flat  shell,  about  one  inch  from  the  edge.  Detach  the  flat  shell  and  remove  all  the 
meat  from  the  inside,  doing  exactly  the  same  for  the  back,  then  saw  them  into  six  or  eight  pieces, 
plunge  them  into  boiling  water  to  remove  the  scales,  doing  the  same  for  the  four  fins.  Put  the 
turtle  meat  into  a  soup  pot  with  two  knuckles  of  veal,  moisten  it  with  broth,  let  boil,  then  skim 
and  add  sprigs  of  parsley,  celery,  sage,  marjoram,  basil,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  mace,  cloves,  whole 
peppers  and  salt,  cook  for  one  hour,  add  the  pieces  of  shell  and  fins  and  let  boil  again  until  all  are 
cooked,  then  take  them  out  and  put  them  into  cold  water.  Remove  the  gelatinous  parts  of  the 
turtle,  cut  them  into  one  and  a  half  inch  squares,  strain  the  broth  through  a  fine  sieve  and  reduce 
it  to  a  half  glaze,  add  the  green  parts  and  let  boil  very  slowly  until  the  turtle  be  thoroughly  cooked 
and  the  stock  well  reduced.  If  wanted  for  further  use  pour  it  into  tin  boxes,  surround  them  with 
ice,  and  when  perfectly  cold  cover  the  tops  with  hot  fat  and  lay  them  aside  in  the  ice  box. 

(353).  GREEN  TURTLE  SOUP,  CLEAR  1  LA  ROYAL  OR  THICK  WITH  MARROW  QUENELLES 
(Soupe  Tortue  Verte,  Claire  a  la  Royale  on  liee  aux  Quenelles  a  la  Moelle). 

Clear. — Put  eight  quarts  of  beef  stock  into  a  soup-pot  with  four  pounds  of  leg  of  veal,  and 
four  pounds  of  fowl  or  chicken  wings,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley,  basil,  marjoram,  mushroom  trim- 
mings, and  celery;  boil  all  for  three  hours,  then  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  afterward  through  a 
napkin.  Clarify  this  stock  the  same  as  consomme  with  chopped  beef.  Cook  separately  the  pre- 
pared turtle,  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  steamer  (bain-marie);  add  to  the  soup  a  dessertspoonful 
of  arrowroot  for  each  quart,  diluted  with  a  little  water,  and  add  it  to  the  boiling  broth,  stirring 
it  in  with  a  whip;  boil  and  despumate  the  soup  for  twenty  minutes,  then  season.  "When  ready  to 
serve,  drain  the  turtle,  lay  it  in  a  soup  tureen,  and  pour  over  the  stock,  seasoning  with  cayenne 
pepper  and  half  a  gill  of  Xeres  for  each  quart. 

For  Clear  Turtle  a  la  Royal. — Add  some  royale  timbales  (No.  241). 

Thick  Turtle  with  Marrow  Quenelles. — Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  clear  turtle,  but  in- 
stead of  thickening  it  with  arrowroot,  thicken  the  soup  with  a  little  brown  roux,  moistened  with 
the  turtle  stock,  boil  and  despumate,  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  Garnish  with  marrow  quenelles 
(No.  252),  or  if  preferred,  use  turtle  fat  instead  of  marrow.  Quenelles  may  also  be  made  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  pounded  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  four  raw  egg- 
yolks,  seasoning  with  salt,  nutmeg,  and  chopped  parsley;  divide  this  into  pieces,  roll  them  into 
balls  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  poach  them  in  boiling  water;  drain,  and  serve  with  the  soup. 

(354).  MOCK  TURTLE  OR  CALF'S  HEAD,  CLEAR  SOUP  (Soupe  Fausse  Tortue  on  Tete  de  Veau 

an  Clair). 

Bone  a  calf's  head  the  same  as  described  for  plain  calfs  head  (No.  1519);  put  it  into 
cold  water  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  boil  up  the  liquid  and  let  it  continue  boiling  for  half 
an  hour,  then  drain,  refresh  and  singe  it.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  cover  it  with 
slices  of  ham,  a  carrot  and  some  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  sage,  chives,  thyme 
and  bay  leaf.  Split  the  bones  taken  from  the  head,  lay  them  on  this  bed  of  vegetables  and 
add  two  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  chicken,  or  else  some  chicken 
thighs,  either  of  these  being  partially  roasted  ;  moisten  with  a  quart  of  water,  and  let  boil 
on  a  moderate  fire  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  and  fallen  to  a  glaze,  and  the  vegetables  slightly 
colored.  Moisten  again  with  six  quarts  or  either  broth  or  water,  add  the  blanched  calf's  head, 
boil  up  the  liquid  again,  then  skim  and  throw  in  one  onion  with  a  clove  in  it,  a  little  mace  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushroom  trimmings;  continue  to  boil  slowly  and  when  the  head  is  cooked, 
remove  it  from  the  stock,  cover  it  over  with  broth,  and  leave  it  till  cold.  Now  cut  away  the  white 
skin  near  the  snout,  divide  the  meat  into  equal  sized  half  inch  square  pieces,  taking  only  the 
cutaneous  parts.  Remove  the  chicken  when  done,  season  the  stock,  skim  off  the  iat  and  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  clarify  it  with  two  pounds  of  chopped  beef  and  one  whole  egg,  proceeding  the 
same  as  for  a  consomme.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  napkin  or  a  silk  sieve,  and  thicken  it  with  a 
spoonful  of  fecula  for  each  quart,  diluting  the  fecula  with  half  a  gill  of  sherry  and  a  little  water, 
and  then  pouring  it  into  the  soup,  stirring  it  vigorously  until  all  is  well  mixed,  then  return  it  to 
the  fire  and  stir  again  until  it  boils.  Pound  the  meat  from  the  chickens  free  of  all  fat,  bones  and 
skin,  add  to  them  when  well  pounded,  four  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  salt,  nutmeg  and  four  raw  egg- 


•m  THE    EPICUREAN. 

yolks,  rubbing  all  through  a  sieve,  mix  in  some  chopped  parsley  and  with  this  preparation  make 
some  small  half  inch  diameter  quenelles;  poach  them  in  boiling  and  salted  water,  drain  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  the  pieces  of  calf's  head,  moisten  with  the  stock,  boil  and  skim, 
then  add  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  or  extra  sherrry  wine  for  each  quart  of  soup,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  for  each  quart;  pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  very  hot. 

(355).  MOCK  TUETLE  SOUP,  THICKENED  (Soupe  Fausse  tortue  Liee). 

It  needs  one  gallon  of  soup  for  twelve  persons.  Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  clear 
mock  turtle  only  leaving  out  the  fecula  thickening.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on 
a  slow  fire,  and  when  melted,  mix  in  with  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  cook  it  slowly  to  obtain 
a  blond  roux,  which  then  moisten  with  clear  turtle  stock,  until  it  becomes  the  consistency  of  a 
light  sauce,  cook  it  slowly  and  keep  despumating  it  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
or  tammy,  and  return  it  to  the  fire  in  a  very  clean  saucepan,  and  after  bringing  the  liquid  up  to  a 
boil,  despumate  it  again.  Add  the  quenelles,  the  calf's  head  cut  in  pieces,  and  the  pulp  of  a 
lemon  without  any  peel  or  pips,  also  half  a  gill  of  sherry  wine  for  each  quart  of  soup. 

(356).  VELVET  SOUP  (Potage  Velours). 

Mince  up  fine  the  red  part  of  a  few  good  carrots;  stew  them  with  butter,  salt,  sugar  and  a 
little  broth,  and  when  done  strain  through  a  sieve  and  afterward  through  a  tammy  (Fig.  88). 
Put  two  quarts  of  good  clear  broth  on  to  boil,  mix  in  with  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tapioca,  let 
it  despumate  for  twenty-five  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  skimming  it  off  well.  At  the  last 
moment  add  the  carrot  puree,  season  boil  up  once  or  twice  more,  and  serve  in  a  soup  tureen. 

(357).  WESTMOEELAND  SOUP  (Potage  a  la  Westmoreland). 

For  sixteen  persons. — Prepare  two  quarts  of  reduced  and  well-seasoned  chicken  consomme 
(No.  190);  boil  it,  then  thicken  it  with  arrowroot,  colored  with  a  little  roucou  (Annotto);  dilute 
the  arrowroot  and  roucou  in  cold  water,  and  add  it  slowly  with  the  soup,  stirring  it  in  continually 
with  a  whip  or  spoon;  then  boil  and  skim. 

Prepare  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cooked  calf's  head  the  gelatinous,  cutaneous  parts,  free  of  all 
fat  and  meat,  press  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch,  cut  this  into  three-eighth  inch  squares,  and  keep  them 
warm  in  a  quart  of  consomme.  Have  half  a  pound  of  round  chicken  quenelles  (No.  154),  half  an 
inch  in  diameter  laid  through  a  bag  on  to  a  buttered  tin  pan,  and  poached  in  boiling  salted  water, 
and  add  them  to  the  calf  s  head.  Braised  sweetbreads  set  under  a  weight,  having  half  a  pound  in 
all,  and  pressed  down  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cut  in  squares  when  cold,  and 
put  them  to  keep  hot  with  the  quenelles  and  calf's  head;  have  also  some  celery  cut  in  quarter  inch 
squares,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  in  all,  and  when  done,  add 
them  to  the  other  garnishings.  Just  when  about  serving,  taste  the  soup,  season  it  accordingly, 
and  pour  it  over  the  garnishings  in  a  soup  tureen. 

(358).  NOQUES  OE  QUENEFES  SOUP  (Potage  aux  Noques  et  aux  Quenefes). 

Melt  in  a  saucepan  three  ounces  of  butter,  dredge  in  the  same  weight  of  flour  and  stir  this  over 
a  moderate  fire  so  as  to  obtain  a  light  roux  (No.  163);  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  stir 
again  until  it  boils  slowly  and  on  one  side  only;  despumate  the  soup  by  removing  all  the  scum  and 
fat  arising  to  the  surface. 

Noques. — Beat  up  with  a  spoon  five  ounces  of  partially  melted  butter  placed  in  a  bowl,  and 
when  it  is  creamed,  then  incorporate  into  it  three  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg;  as  the  compound 
becomes  frothy,  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  flour  and  two  beaten  egg-whites,  season  with  salt  and 
nutmeg,  and  try  the  preparation  by  taking  up  a  teaspoonful  and  letting  it  fall,  detaching  it  with 
another  teaspoon,  into  boiling,  salted  water,  and  if  it  be  too  light  and  requires  more  consistency, 
then  add  a  little  more  flour  mixed  with  a  little  hot  water,  but  if  it  be  too  consistent,  then  more 
butter  is  needed.  Keep  the  noques  in  boiling  water  without  letting  them  boil  until  they  are  well 
poached  and  firm,  then  drain,  and  range  them  in  a  soup  tureen;  remove  the  fat  once  more  from 
the  soup  and  thicken  it  with  four  egg-yolks  and  two  gills  of  cream  and  a  little  butter;  pour  it  over 
the  noques  after  straining  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Quenefes. — Put  into  a  bowl  four  yolks  and  two  whole  eggs,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  mix  well,  then 
add  six  ounces  of  flour,  and  to  test  whether  the  paste  is  sufficiently  thick,  take  up  some  of  it  in  a 
teaspoon,  detach  it  with  another  spoon  moistened  with  hot  water,  and  let  it  drop  into  boiling  water 
to  cook  for  half  an  hour  without  boiling.  Drain  and  use  these  quenefes  instead  of  noques  for  the 
above  soup. 


SOTTPS.  J>83 

(359).  EAVIOLE  AND  PEAEL  SOUP  (Potage  aux  Eavioles  et  aux  Perles). 
Place  four  quarts  of  good  consomme"  into  a  saucepan,  and  after  it  boils  skim  it  well.  Blanch 
in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes,  two  ounces  of  Nizam  pearls,  drain,  and  add  them  to  the  boiling 
consomme;  cook  until  they  become  transparent,  which  will  take  about  twenty  minutes,  pour  the 
soup  into  the  soup  tureen,  adding  some  poached  ravioles  (No.  158),  arid  serve  at  the  same  time  a 
plateful  of  grated  parmesan  cheese. 

(360).  WOODCOCK  SOUP  (Potage  de  Becasses). 

Remove  the  four  fillets  from  two  cold  roasted  woodcocks;  pound  two  of  these  fillets  with  the 
livers  and  a  few  slices  of  cooked  foies-gras;  press  through  a  sieve,  and  put  this  puree  into  a  mor- 
tar, mixing  in  with  it  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  raw  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91);  two  whole 
eggs,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  half  a  gill  of  cold  espagnole  sauce.  Poach  this  preparation  in  small 
buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137).  Despumate  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  two  quarts  of  game 
stock  (No.  195),  add  to  it  the  carcasses,  necks,  and  heads  of  the  woodcocks,  all  chopped  up  and  a 
few  aromatic  herbs  and  twenty  minutes  later,  skim  off  the-  fat,  strain  it  through  a  tammy,  and 
put  it  back  into  a  clean  saucepan,  to  heat,  stirring  it  with  a  spatula  continually  to  prevent  the  soup 
adhering  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  finish  by  incorporating  into  it  a  small  piece  of  butter,  having 
previously  removed  the  soup  from  the  fire.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  adding  the  two  breasts 
kept  aside,  mincing  them  up  in  Julienne,  also  the  poached  timbales. 


SOUPS  AND  DIFFERENT  PEEPAEATIONS  FOR  INVALIDS, 


(36D.  INDIAN  AEEOWEOOT  (Arrowroot  de  1'Inde). 

Prepare  a  plain  chicken  broth  as  indicated  in  No.  188;  for  each  quart  of  this  dilute  a  table- 
spoonful  of  arrowroot  with  a  little  of  the  cold  broth,  so  as  to  form  a  smooth  and  liquid  paste,  add 
to  it  gradually  the  boiling  broth,  then  boil  all,  stirring  unceasingly  with  a  spatula.  After  the  first 
boil,  simmer  it  gently  for  half  an  hour,  carefully  stirring  it  at  times  to  prevent  it  from  sticking 
to  the  bottom  of  the  pan;  then  serve. 

(362).  BAVAEOISE  (Bavaroise), 

An  infusion  of  tea  sweetened  with  gum  syrup  and  orange  flower-water  with  milk.  Have 
half  as  much  boiling  milk  as  tea;  sweeten  it  with  gum  syrup,  and  flavor  with  orange  flower- water; 
the  latter  can  be  replaced  by  a  small  glassful  of  good  brandy.  Bavaroise  is  taken  at  night  before 
retiring. 

(363).  CHICKEN  BEOTH  PLAIN  (Bouillon  de  Poulet  Simple). 

Chop  up  three  pounds  of  chicken  carcasses;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  and  a 
half  of  water,  and  a  little  salt;  boil,  then  skim,  add  a  well  washed  lettuce  head,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  chervil.  Let  boil  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  remove  all  the  fat  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve;  serve 
in  cups.  This  preparation  should  produce  about  a  quart  of  liquid. 

(364).  CHICKEN  AND  MUTTON  BEOTH  WITH  BAELEY  (Bouillon  de  Poulet  et  Mouton  a  1'Orge). 
Break  up  three  pounds  of  chicken  carcasses  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pound  of  lean 
mutton  cut  in  squares  and  an  ounce  of  pearl  hulled  barley  washed  in  several  waters,  half  a  pound  of 
minced  and  blanched  turnips;  moisten  with  three  quarts  of  water,  boil,  skim,  and  reboil  all  gently 
for  three  hours;  skim  again,  season  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve;  serve  in  cups. 

(365).  CHICKEN  AND  VEAL  BEOTH  (Bouillon  de  Poulet  et  de  Yean). 

Place  in  a  saucepan  a  pound  and  a  half  of  broken  up  chicken  carcasses  and  as  much  lean  veal 
cut  up  in  half  inch  squares;  add  three  quarts  of  water,  two  ounces  of  carrots  and  an  ounce  of  cut 
up  turnips,  both  blanched  in  plenty  of  water  and  besides  these  two  ounces  of  celery.  Boil  the 
whole  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  skim  off  the  fat,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  strain  through  a  fine 
sieve;  serve  in  cups. 


284  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(366).  OLAM  BEOTH  AND  PUEEE  (Bouillon  de  Lucines  Oranges  et  Pure"e 
Put  one  pint  of  clams  into  a  saucepan  with  their  own  juice  and  a  little  water;  cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  set  it  on  the  fire,  removing  it  after  the  first  boil,  then  drain,  and  strain  the  liquor  through 
either  a  fine  sieve  or  else  a  napkin;  serve  it  in  cups.  The  clam  puree  to  be  prepared  as  follows: 
Pound  the  clams;  after  they  are  reduced  to  a  paste,  then  moisten  them  with  their  own  liquor,  and 
as  much  water,  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  For  either  plain  broth  or  puree,  a  little  milk  and 
butter  may  be  added. 

(367).  OUSTAED  OEEAM  OF  OHIOZEN  OE  GAME  (Oreme  Bain-Marie  de  Volaille  ou  de  Gibier), 

Cut  either  a  three  pound  chicken,  or  two  grouse,  or  two  partridges  into  four  parts,  remove  the 
lights  and  kidneys,  wash  well  and  cook  them  in  two  quarts  of  water  seasoned  with  salt,  a  few 
parsley  stalks,  half  an  ounce  of  chervil,  six  ounces  of  turnips,  and  four  ounces  of  minced  celery; 
boil,  skim,  and  let  simmer  until  the  chicken  or  game  be  cooked,  then  strain  the  broth  through  a 
napkin.  With  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  mix  one  quart  of  this  broth,  adding  a  very  little  at  the  time, 
and  strain  through  a  sieve;  fill  up  some  small  cups  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  top;  place  these 
cups  in  a  low  saucepan  with  boiling  water  sufficient  to  reach  to  half  their  heighth,  then  set  them  on 
the  fire  and  as  soon  as  the  water  is  ready  to  boil,  push  the  saucepan  into  the  oven;  when  firm  to 
the  touch,  remove  them,  and  serve  them  either  hot  or  cold  as  required. 

(368).  PLAIN  EXTEAOT  OF  BEEF  (Extrait  de  Bo3uf  Simple). 

Chop  up  very  fine  one  pound  of  lean  beef,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  dilute  it  gradually  with 
three  pints  of  cold  bouillon  (No.  187);  set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then 
place  it  on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  it  will  not  boil,  leave  it  there  for  half  an  hour,  and  strain  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  or  napkin. 

(369).  EXTEAOT  OF  BEEF,  CLAEIFLED  (Extrait  de  Boeuf  Clarine"), 

Remove  the  fat  and  nerves  from  five  pounds  of  lean  beef,  either  from  the  leg  or  rump,  chop  it 
up  very  fine  and  divide  it  equally  into  three  empty  and  well  washed  champagne  bottles,  adding  to 
each  bottle,  one  gill  of  broth  or  water,  or  not  any  should  a  more  concentrated  extract  be  desired; 
cork  and  tie  them  well.  Place  these  bottles  in  a  high  bain-marie,  wrapping  each  bottle  up  in  a  cloth, 
and  fill  to  five-sixths  of  their  heighth  with  water;  boil  continually  for  two  hours,  and  leave  the 
bottles  in  the  water  one  half  hour  after  removing  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  then  uncork  carefully. 
Fold  two  sheets  of  filtering  paper  together,  lay  them  in  a  glass  funnel  and  set  these  over  high  gallon 
glass  jars,  pour  the  liquid  slowly  through  the  paper  and  when  all  is  strained,  fill  a  well  washed 
and  clean  champagne  bottle  with  it;  cork  it  up,  letting  the  liquid  reach  nearly  as  far  up  as  the 
cork,  and  put  it  on  ice  to  keep. 

(370).  FISH  BEOTH  "WITH  OLAMS  (Bouillon  de  Poisson  aux  Lucines  Oranges). 
Heat  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  minced  onions,  an  ounce  of 
carrots,  two  ounces  of  turnips  and  two  leeks.  Fry  colorless,  then  put  in  two  pounds  of  the  heads 
and  bones  of  fish  and  moisten  it  to  its  height  with  water,  adding  an  ounce  of  celery,  one  tomato, 
a  little  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley  and  salt.  Cover  and  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes,  then  strain 
through  a  sieve,  return  it  once  more  to  the  saucepan  adding  a  quart  of  clams  and  their  juice; 
boil,  strain  again  through  a  fine  sieve,  taste  and  serve  in  cups. 

(371).  FEOG  BEOTH  AND  PUEEE  (Bouillon  de  GrenouiUes  et  Pure~e  de  Grenouilles). 

Mince  half  a  pound  of  celery,  carrots,  turnips,  and  leeks;  fry  them  without  letting  them 
acquire  a  color  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  chicken  broth  or  water, 
and  add  a  pound  of  frog's  legs  and  hind  parts,  half  an  ounce  of  chervil,  and  two  ounces  of  lettuce, 
both  cut  very  fine.  Boil  all  slowly  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar, 
then  strain  through  a  napkin  and  serve  in  cups. 

For  the  Puree,  pound  the  frog  meat  and  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in 
milk  and  then  squeezed  out.  When  all  is  well  pounded,  dilute  with  the  same  quantity  of  broth 
as  above,  and  strain  through  a  tammy;  a  little  butter  and  milk  may  be  added  to  advantage;  this 
pure'e  should  be  served  in  a  clear  state  in  cups. 


SOUP'S.  285 

(372).  HERB  BROTH  (Bouillon  aux  Herbes). 

Four  ounces  of  lettuce,  one  ounce  of  chervil,  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  sorrel,  all  well  washed, 
and  cut  up  fine.  Put  these  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  with  a  little  butter,  stirring  occasionally; 
when  lightly  cooked  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  white  chicken  broth  (No.  188),  or  its  equal  volume 
of  water.  Let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  adding  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  salt. 
Serve  this  in  cups,  either  plain  or  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread  or  else  with  rice,  semolina,  etc. 

(373),  CHICKEN  AND  CALF'S  FOOT  JELLY  (Gel&de  Volaille  et  de  Piedsde  Vean). 

Bone  six  calves'  feet,  blanch,  and  refresh  them  in  cold  water;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  six 
pounds  of  round  bottom  of  veal,  four  large  fowls,  afu<i  removing  the  breasts,  two  knuckles  of 
veal  and  sixteen  quarts  of  water.  Boil,  then  skim,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  little  celery,  three 
onions,  one  having  two  cloves  in  it,  four  carrots,  and  eight  leeks;  boil  constantly  until  perfectly 
cooked  from  six  to  eight  hours,  and  test  the  jelly  to  see  whether  it  be  firm  enough,  by  putting  a 
little  on  a  plate  on  ice;  if  too  gelatinous,  then  add  a  little  water.  Strain  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  remove  the  fat. 

For  Clarification. — Chop  fine  the  chicken  breasts,  mix  in  with  eight  egg-whites,  diluted  with 
a  little  white  broth,  or  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine;  mix  in  the  jelly  gradually  with  the  eggs, 
and  put  it  back  on  the  fire,  stirring  it  constantly  with  a  whisk,  and  when  on  the  point  of  boiling 
remove  it  from  the  range,  and  strain  through  a  flannel  bag,  restraining  until  it  flows  clear. 

(374),  MEAT  AND  CALF'S  FOOT  JELLY  (Gele"e  de  Viandes  et  de  Pieds  de  Veau). 
Bone  eight  calves'  feet,  blanch,  cool,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  six  pounds  of  rcund 
bottom  or  shoulder  of  veal,  six  pounds  of  legs  of  beef,  two  veal  knuckles  and  sixteen  quarts  of 
water.  Boil,  skim  and  add  salt,  whole  pepper,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  thyme,  garlic, 
bay  leaf  and  celery,  three  onions,  one  with  four  cloves  in  it,  some  medium  carrots  and  eight  leeks. 
Boil  unceasingly  until  the  meats  are  well  done,  (from  six  to  eight  hours),  then  strain  through  a 
sieve  and  skim  off  the  fat.  Set  a  little  of  it  on  some  ice  to  see  whether  it  is  sufficiently  gelatinous, 
and  if  too  consistent  add  a  little  veal  broth,  then  proceed  to  clarify  the  jelly  as  follows:  Chop  up 
very  fine  two  pounds  of  lean  veal,  mixing  with  it  half  a  pint  of  egg-white,  diluted  with  half  a  bottle 
of  white  wine  or  a  little  water,  and  mix  the  jelly  stock  gradually  with  this  meat,  put  it  back  on  the 
fire,  stir  continually  with  a  whip  and  when  ready  to  boil,  remove  and  add  half  a  bottleful  of 
Madeira  wine,  pour  the  jelly  into  a  flannel  jelly  bag,  restraining  it  until  it  be  perfectly  clear. 

For  calves'  foot  jelly  and  Madeira  wine  (gelee  depieds  de  veau  au  tnadlre)  see  No.  104. 

(375).  MUTTON  BROTH  (Bouillon  de  Mouton), 

Cut  into  pieces  four  pounds  of  very  fresh  neck  of  mutton  free  of  fat;  put  these  into  a  saucepan. 
Prepare  two  ounces  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  turnips,  two  ounces  of  celery,  four  ounces  of  leeks,  a 
few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  a  little  thyme;  fry  colorless,  the  turnips,  celery,  carrots,  and  leeks  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  moisten  with  four  quarts  of  water  or  stock,  season  well  and  let  boil 
slowly  during  one  hour  and  a  half;  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  surface,  strain  it  through  a  napkin 
and  serve  it  in  cups.  Another  way  is  to  wash  in  cold  water  three  pounds  of  very  fresh  neck  of 
mutton,  cut  into  pieces;  put  this  into  a  saucepan  with  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  water,  boil, 
skim,  then  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  minced  turnips,  a  few  parsley  stalks,  and  a  few  thyme 
leaves,  seasoning  with  salt.  Boil  slowly  for  two  hours,  remove  all  the  fat.  strain  it  through  a 
fine  sieve  and  serve.  Some  pearl  barley  cooked  separately  in  water  or  broth  may  be  added  to 
either.  If  the  broth  needs  to  be  clarified,  then  chop  up  half  a  pound  of  lean  mutton  and  mix  in  with 
it  one  raw  egg;  dilute  with  a  little  broth  or  water,  and  put  it  into  the  mutton  broth,  stir  it  up 
quickly,  and  place  the  whole  on  the  fire  so  that  it  barely  simmers,  and  when  clear,  strain  through 
a  napkin. 

(376).  MULLED  EGG  AND  ALMOND  MILK  THICKENED  WITH  RICE  FLOUR  (Lait  de  Poule  et 

Lait  d'Amandes,  Lie  a  la  Farine  de  riz). 

Break  two  very  fresh  eggs  into  a  bowl,  dilute  them  gradually  with  two  gills  of  boiling  water, 
adding  some  powdered  sugar  and  a  little  orange  flower-water;  mix  thoroughly  and  drink  very 
hot. 


286  THE    EPICUREAN 

Tliickened  Almond  Milk. — A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  peeled  fresn  almonds  and  four  bitter  ones; 
pound  them  in  a  mortar,  adding  gradually  half  a  pint  of  water,  sugar,  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Press 
this  well  through  a  napkin,  warm  it  up  without  boiling  and  thicken  it  with  half  an  ounce  of  rice- 
flour  diluted  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  water;  return  it  to  the  fire  and  remove  at  the  first  boil. 

(377).  BEEF  JUICE  (Jus  de  Bceuf). 

In  order  to  obtain  a  pint  of  beef  juice  it  will  take  about  five  pounds  of  meat  free  irom  all  fat 
and  nerves;  cut  it  into  about  five-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  broil  them  nicely,  not  too  rare  or 
too  well  done,  and  after  taking  them  from  the  broiler,  cut  them  up  into  five-eighth  inch  squares, 
and  press  them  well  in  the  press  shown  in  Fig.  70,  to  extract  all  their  juice;  when  it  is  all  well 
pressed  out,  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or  napkin,  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  surface  and  serve 
in  small  cups. 

(378).  PUREE  OE  BARLEY  WITH  CHICKEN  BEOTH  (Puree  d'Orge  au  Bouillon  de  Volatile). 

Soak  two  ounces  of  pearl  or  other  barley  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours;  wash  it,  then  lay  it  in 
a  saucepan  and  cover  it  well  with  four  quarts  of  chicken  bouillon  (No.  188);  boil  and  add 
more  as  the  broth  diminishes,  boil  until  the  barley  bursts;  continue  to  cook  until  the  broth  is 
thickened  by  the  soluble  parts  of  the  barley,  it  takes  about  three  hours  to  cook  the  barley;  then 
strain  forcibly  and  serve.  A  little  butter  and  milk  may  be  added  if  desired;  serve  in  cups. 

(379).  PUREE  OF  OHIOKEU,  PARTRIDGE,  GROUSE  OR  ROEBUCK  (Puree  de  Poulet,  Perdreau, 

Terras  ou  Chevreuil). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  a  roast  chicken  or  from  either  two  partridges  or  two  grouse,  or  else  one 
pound  of  the  saddle  of  roasted  venison,  pound  them,  add  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  previously 
soaked  in  chicken  or  game  broth  and  squeezed  thoroughly,  pound  again  and  dilute  this  puree  with 
simply  lightly  salted  chicken  or  game  broth,  free  of  any  spices,  aromaties  or  vegetables.  Strain 
through  a  sieve  and  warm  it  up  without  boiling,  adding  two  ounces  of  butter,  stirring  it  in  well; 
moisten  with  either  chicken  or  game  broth,  letting  it  remain  sufficiently  liquid  so  as  to  be  easily 
drank  from  cups. 

(380).  PUREE  OF  OATMEAL  OR  VHEATEN  GRITS  (PurSe  d'Avenas  ou  deBia 
Put  four  quarts  of  water  or  broth  into  a  saucepan,  let  boil,  and  dredge  in  a  shower  while 
stirring  one  pound  either  of  oatmeal  or  wheaten  grits;  let  cook  for  thirty  minutes,  pass  it  through 
a  tammy,  and  add  either  more  water  or  some  broth,  so  as  to  obtain  a  clear  puree  fit  to  be  drank 
easily  from  a  cup,  without  using  a  spoon;  a  little  salt  and  butter  may  be  added. 

(381).  SABAYON  OF  CHICKEN  OR  GAME  (Sabayon  deVolaitle  ou  de  Gibier). 

Put  eight  egg-yolks  into  a  high  and  narrow  bain-marie;  dilute  them  with  one  pint  of  chicken 
or  game  broth,  and  place  the  bain-marie  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire  or  in  boiling  water,  then  stir  well 
with  a  whip  or  wooden  beater  until  the  sabayon  becomes  thick  and  frothy;  as  soon  as  it  is  done 
serve  it  very  hot  in  cups.  A  little  sherry  added  to  the  broth  is  considered  an  improvement  by 
some. 

(382).  BEEF,  MUTTON,  CHICKEN,  OR  VEAL  TEA  (The  de  Bojuf,  Mouton,  Poulet  ou  Veaul 

Two  pounds  of  lean  meat  free  from  nerves  and  skin,  either  beef,  mutton,  chicken,  or  veal, 
taken  from  the  thighs  or  any  other  juicy  parts.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  quarter  of  inch  squares, 
set  them  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  three  pints  of  cold  water,  with  a  little  salt  added.  Boil, 
skim,  and  keep  near  boiling  point  for  one  hour,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  or  napkin  and  serve  in 
cups.  Another  way  is  to  fill  up  champagne  bottles  with  the  meat,  put  half  a  gill  of  water  in  each, 
tie  down  the  cork  with  a  string  or  wire,  boil  for  three  hours,  uncork  and  pass  through  a  napkin. 

(383).  VEAL  BROTH,  REFRESHING  (Bouillon  de  Veau  Raftaichissant). 

Mince  up  four  ounces  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  turnips,  four  leeks,  and  two  celery  roots;  fry 
them  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  letting  them  attain  a  light  color,  then  add  ten  pounds  of  split  knuckle 
of  veal,  and  moisten  it  all  with  water  until  well  covered,  then  boil  and  skim;  add  salt  and  let  boil 
continually  for  two  hours.  Chop  very  fine  two  pounds  of  bottom  round  of  veal,  free  of  fat,  sinews 


SOUPS.  287 

and  skin;  to  this  add  one  whole  egg  diluted  with  a  little  water  or  cold  broth,  pour  it  gradually 
into  the  veal  broth  and  clarify  it  by  beating  with  a  whip;  return  to  the  fire  to  boil  slowly  and  con- 
tinuously for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  adding  one  ounce  of  chervil,  two  ounces  of  lettuce,  and 
two  ounces  of  wild  chiccory,  all  well  washed  and  cut  up  fine.  Boil  again  for  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes,  then  strain  either  through  a  fine  sieve  or  napkin. 

(384).  WHEAT,  OATS,  OE  BAELEY  BEOTE  (Bouillon  de  B16,  d'Avoine  ou  d'Orge), 
Wash  half  a  pound  of  either  of  these  in  several  waters,  then  leave  to  soak  for  twelve  hours; 
parboil  them  in  plenty  of  water,  and  afterward  cook  them  slowly  in  white  chicken  bouillon 
Wo.  188).  When  done  and  the  grain  crushes  easily  between  the  fingers,  strain  and  press  it  well  to 
extract  all  the  insides.  Half  a  pound  of  wheat  should  produce  two  quarts  of  liquid.  To  be 
served  in  cups. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


SA.TJOES. 


STOCKS,  ESSENCES,  AND  AUXILIAKIES, 


(385).  DUXELLE,  OK  COOKED  PINE  HEKBS  (Duxelle  ou  Pines  Herbes  Chutes). 
Put  four  ounces  of  scraped  fat  pork  and  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  well  melted 
add  to  it  six  ounces  of  either  chopped  or  one-eighth  of  inch  pieces  of  shallot,  a  clove  of  crushed  and 
chopped  garlic,  let  these  ingredients  fry  without  coloring,  adding  half  a  pound  of  raw,  finely 
chopped  mushrooms;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  reduce  while  stirring  continuously  until  the  moisture 
from  the  mushrooms  be  entirely  evaporated,  then  add  an  ounce  of  chopped  parsley  washed  and 
pressed  out;  an  ounce  of  chopped  truffles  may  be  added,  but  this  is  optional.  If  it  needs  to  be 
thickened  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  demi-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  reduce  until  it  acquires  a 
consistency. 

(386).  ESSENCES  AND  FUMET  (Essences  et  Fumet). 

A  sauce  is  thick,  essence  is  not.  Essence  is  an  extract  from  the  most  nutritious  parts  of 
meat.  Fumet,  or  flavor,  is  a  steam  which  rises  from  certain  cooked  or  raw  meats,  imparting  a 
most  agreeable  smell  and  taste,  it  is  the  same  preparation  as  essences,  but  less  watery  and  reduced 
with  Madeira. 

(387).  CHICKEN  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Volaille). 

Fry  one  pound  of  sliced  kernel  of  veal  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  broken  chicken  bones  in  some 
butter  without  coloring  them,  adding  two  minced  shallots,  half  a  pound  of  minced  carrots,  and 
four  ounces  of  onions.  Moisten  with  one  quart  of  white  chicken  bouillon  (No.  188)  and  reduce  to 
glaze;  moisten  again  and  reduce  once  more,  then  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay 
leaves  and  as  much  thyme,  four  cloves  and  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine;  boil,  skim,  and  cook 
slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  through  a  napkin  or  silk  sieve. 

(388).  PISH  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Poisson). 

Cut  in  slices  two  pounds  of  bass,  porgies  or  any  other  bony,  and  very  frest  fish;  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  and  season  with  salt,  whole  peppers  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine.  Fry  lightly  in 
butter  without  attaining  a  color,  three  ounces  of  minced  onions,  three  ounces  of  carrots,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves  and  the  same  of  thyme,  two  cloves  and  two  shallots;  add  all 
these  to  the  fish  with  one  quart  of  water,  and  cook  slowly  for  forty  minutes,  then  strain  through  a 
fine  sieve. 

(389).  GAME  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Gibier). 

Have  two  pounds  of  young  rabbit  and  the  same  quantity  of  raw  pheasant,  and  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  two  chopped  shallots,  two  ounces  of  mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of  carrots,  the 
mushrooms  and  carrots  being  either  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares  or  minced;  a  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  six  cloves.  Moisten  with  one  quart  of 
veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  also  a  quart  and  a  half  of  broth;  boil  all 
slowly,  skim  and  let  simmer  for  one  hour,  then  strain  the  essence  through  a  silk  sieve. 

(390).  HAM  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Jambon). 

Fry  in  butter  and  color  lightly,  one  pound  of  sliced,  smoked  or  unsmoked  ham,  add  to  it  two 
ounces  of  minced  onions,  and  four  ounces  of  carrots,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  the  same 
quantity  of  bay  leaf  as  thyme,  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine;  reduce  this  in  a  cov- 
ered saucepan,  moisten  again  with  one  quart  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  let  boil  and  simmer 
for  forty  minutes,  then  skim  and  strain  through  a  napkin  or  fine  silk  sieve. 


290  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(391).  HOT  ASPIO  ESSENCE,  CLEAR  AND  THICKENED  (Essence  d'Aspic  Ohaude  Claire  et  lifie) 
Put  into  a  saucepan,  half  a  gill  of  vinegar,  a  few  bits  of  tarragon,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  minced  ham  and  a  coffeespoonful  of  mignonette,  a  little  mace;  let  all  simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
consomme  (No.  189);  reduce  it  all  to  half,  strain  it  through  a  sieve  and  clarify  with  one  egg- 
white;  press  the  aspic  through  a  napkin  and  use  it  for  roast  poultry. 

Thickened  Aspic. — Before  clarifying,  add  its  equal  quantity  of  espagnole,  and  reduce  it  to  the 
consistency  of  a  sauce,  despumate  the  surface  and  strain  through  a  tammy. 

(392).  MUSHROOM  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Champignons). 

Put  one  pound  of  mushrooms  previously  washed  and  cut  in  four  into  a  saucepan  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  salt,  and  a  pint  of  broth;  let  boil  together  for  ten  minutes;  cover  the  sauce- 
pan hermetically  and  let  stand  till  cold;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve. 

(393).  ROOT  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Racines). 

Have  half  a  pound  each  of  vegetables  such  as  carrots,  onions,  turnips,  parsnips,  parsley  root  and 
celery;  wash  them  well,  and  mince  them  up  very  fine,  then  fry  them  lightly  in  three  ounces  of 
butter  and  moisten  with  a  quart  and  a  half  of  water  and  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine;  let  cook 
slowly  for  one  hour,  remove  all  the  fat  and  scum,  then  strain  through  a  napkin  or  silk  sieve. 

(394).  ESSENCE  OP  TAME  OR  WILD  DUCKS  (Essence  de  Canards  Domestiqnes  ou  Sauvages). 

This  is  made  with  the  fragments  of  six  roasted  duck  bones,  broken  up  and  put  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  pint  of  mirepoix  stock,  one  quart  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  a  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  bay  leaf  and  thyme,  mignonette  and  nutmeg.  Let  simmer  for  one  hour,  then 
add  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  a  lemon,  also  their  peels;  strain  through  a  napkin  or  a  silk  sieve. 

(395).  TRUPFLE  ESSENCE  (Essence  de  Truffes). 

Brush  and  peel  two  pounds  of  fresh  truffles;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  bottle  of 
Madeira  wine  and  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  187),  add  two  ounces  of  celery,  as  much  carrots  and  as 
much  onions,  all  minced  up  very  fine,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  salt  and  ground  pepper. 
Cover  the  saucepan  and  allow  the  truffles  to  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  let  them  get 
cold  in  their  broth,  keeping  the  cover  hermetically  closed.  Strain  through  a  napkin  or  fine  sieve. 

(396).  RAW  FINE  HERBS  (Fines  Herbes  Crues). 

Composed  of  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  fennel,  chives  and  pimpernel,  picked,  washed,  thor- 
oughly drained  and  each  one  chopped  up  separately;  onions  and  shallots  cut  in  very  small  dice  or 
else  chopped  are  considered  the  same  as  fine  herbs.  (The  parsley,  onions  and  shallot  may  be 
blanched  by  tying  them  in  a  small  muslin  bag,  and  plunging  into  boiling  water,  then  refreshing 
them  several  times,  afterward  extracting  all  the  water  they  contain.) 

(397).  FUMET  OF  PARTRIDGE  OR  OTHER  GAME  (Fumet  de  Perdreaux  ou  d'autres  Gibiers), 

Cut  four  ounces  of  onions  into  slices,  put  them  into  a  well  buttered  saucepan  with  four  ounces 
of  sliced  carrots,  and  lay  on  top  eight  ounces  of  sliced  ham,  four  ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  two 
pounds  of  young  rabbit  and  two  pounds  of  partridge,  add  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  reduce  to  a 
glaze;  moisten  with  a  quart  of  broth  (No.  187),  cover  the  saucepan,  and  let  boil  and  reduce  on  a 
brisk  fire,  moderating  the  heat  when  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  three-quarters,  then  continue  reducing 
until  it  has  fallen  again  to  a  glaze.  Add  four  quarts  of  game  broth  (No.  195),  a  tablespoonful  of 
allspice  (whole),  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  celery,  bay  leaf,  and  thyme,  and  let  cook  for  an 
hour  and  a  half.  Strain  this  through  a  napkin,  put  it  back  on  the  fire  to  clarify  with  two 
partridge  breasts  and  one  pound  of  lean  veal,  both  well  chopped;  dilute  it  with  half  a  bottle  of 
white  wine,  stir  well,  and  take  it  off  the  fire  at  the  first  boil;  as  soon  as  the  fumet  is  very  clear, 
strain  it  through  a  napkin. 

(398).  CHICKEN  OR  GAME  GLAZE  (Glace  de  Volaille  ou  de  Gibier). 

To  the  chicken  stock,  set  apart  to  prepare  a  glaze,  some  good  veal  stock  (No.  423)  maybe  added, 
operating  the  same  fora  game  stock,  to  which  put  in  parts  of  both  veal  and  chicken;  the  process 
is  always  the  same;  it  is  especially  during  the  shooting  season  that  excellent  game  glaze  can  be 


SAUCES.  291 

prepared  with  all  the  smaller  parts  and  bones  of  large  game.  Prepare  an  ordinary  broth,  obtaining 
it  as  clear  as  possible,  strain,  skim  off  the  fat  and  let  it  deposit  its  sediment.  Collect  all  the  good 
meat  from  the  large  game,  such  as  thighs,  shoulders  or  breasts  of  hare  or  deer,  also  from  old 
partridges,  and  the  pinions  and  giblets  from  the  pheasants  or  partridges.  Make  a  mirepoix  of 
roots,  and  minced  onions,  put  with  it  all  the  above  meats,  also  a  piece  of  the  shoulder,  breast  of  veal; 
their  white  fragments,  or  those  of  chickens,  and  fry  them  for  a  few  minutes;  moisten  them  moder- 
ately with  some  broth  (No.  187),  and  let  this  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  again  abundantly  with 
the  prepared  game  broth,  adding  a  few  boned  and  parboiled  calves'  feet;  as  soon  as  the  meat 
is  done,  drain  well;  strain  and  skim  the  liquid;  let  it  settle  so  as  to  be  able  to  pour  off  the  clear  top 
and  reduce  this  once  more. 

(399).  FISH  GLAZE  (Glace  de  Poisson). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  six  pounds  of  bass,  four  of  soles,  and  two  of  codfish;  moisten  with  fourteen 
quarts  of  water  and  one  quart  of  white  wine;  boil,  skim,  and  season  with  salt,  cloves,  whole  all- 
spice, two  cloves  of  garlic,  half  a  pound  of  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay 
leaves  and  as  much  thyme.  Let  simmer  for  one  hour,  then  strain  through  a  napkin,  and  redue 
to  a  quarter  of  its  quantity,  then  set  it  away  in  a  bowl  to  get  cold;  turn  it  out,  and  cut  off  the  top, 
leaving  the  sediment  at  the  bottom,  then  put  it  back  on  the  fire,  and  reduce  to  the  consistency 
of  a  thick  syrup. 

(400).  OLEAE  HALF  GLAZE  (Demi-Glace  Claire). 

This  demi-glaze  must  not  be  confused  with  demi-glaze  sauce.  The  demi-glaze  is  not  a  sauce 
but  simply  good,  clarified  gelatinous  gravy  reduced  to  half  the  consistency  of  a  glaze;  which 
means  only  slightly  thickened;  it  must  be  bright,  clear,  and  succulent.  Before  taking  it  from  the 
fire  mix  in  with  it  a  spoonful  of  Madeira  wine  for  each  two  quarts  of  liquid. 

(401).  MEAT  GLAZE,  CLEAE  (Glace  de  Viande  Claire), 

Have  a  stockpot  sufficiently  large  to  contain  four  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  eight  pounds  of 
shoulder  of  veal,  six  pounds  of  shin  or  leg  of  beef,  and  add  to  these  sixteen  quarts  of  water  and 
a  very  little  salt;  boil,  skim,  and  garnish  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  onions,  one  of  them  contain- 
ing four  cloves,  two  pounds  of  carrots  cut  in  quarters,  a  bunch  of  eight  medium  sized  leeks,  with  a 
few  branches  of  celery,  and  a  bouquet  made  of  two  ounces  of  parsley  leaves,  three  bay  leaves  and 
as  much  thyme;  bring  to  a  boil,  skim  as  fast  as  the  fat  and  white  particles  rise  to  the  surface,  and 
boil  in  this  manner  for  eight  hours,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  reduce  down  to  two  quarts. 
Put  this  into  a  tin  can  having  a  tube  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  a  quarter  of  its  height  from  the 
bottom,  and  plugged  with  a  tight  cork;  cork  well  and  tie  it  firmly  down,  then  put  it  on  to  boil  in 
water  for  one  hour,  remove  it  from  the  water,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place  for  three  days  to  settle, 
then  take  out  the  top,  then  the  lower  cork,  and  receive  the  glaze  as  it  falls  in  an  earthern  vessel. 
This  glaze  should  be  very  clear;  suppress  the  bottom,  and  use  it  in  sauces  etc.,  or  else  add  it  to  the 
Spanish  sauce  stocks. 

(402).  MEAT  GLAZE,  PLAIN  (Glace  de  Viande  Simple). 

To  Prepare  Meat  Glaze. — In  the  every  day  work  of  a  kitchen,  the  meat  glaze  is  always  prepared 
either  with  the  superfluous  stocks  or  remoistening  broths;  it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  accomplish 
this.  Skim  off  the  fat  from  all  surplus  stocks,  and  then  strain  them;  should  they  be  troubled, 
clarify  with  a  little  lean  beef  operating  the  sauce  as  for  consomme.  After  the  liquid  is  once 
strained,  set  it  into  one  or  several  saucepans,  pouring  it  off  steadily  from  the  sediment,  and  reduce 
the  liquid  quickly,  while  stirring  it  in  the  saucepan  with  a  ladle,  until  it  becomes  slightly  thick; 
now  pour  it  into  a  smaller  saucepan,  and  leave  it  to  boil  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  while  skimming, 
until  the  glaze  is  quite  thick,  then  pour  it  into  cans  and  let  it  get  cold  in  a  cool  place  to  use  when 
needed. 

(403).  EOOT  GLAZE  iGlace  de  Eacines). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  pounds  of  carrots  cut  in  big  squares,  as  many  onions,  one  pound  of 
celery  roots,  and  three  pounds  of  turnips;  season  with  a  little  salt,  four  cloves,  one  teaspoon ful  of 
whole  allspice,  and  moisten  with  twelve  quarts  of  water,  adding  four  pounds  of  split  knuckle  of 
veal,  and  two  pounds  of  the  kernel,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf; 
let  cook  slowly  for  four  hours,  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve;  return  it  to  the  fire,  des- 
pumate  well  all  the  white  and  fat  particles  from  the  surface;  let  it  continue  to  boil  till  the  consist- 
ency of  a  thick  syrup  is  obtained,  then  put  it  away  to  use  when  needed. 


292  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(404),  OLEAE  GEAVY  (Jus  Glair). 

Butter  the  interior  of  a  saucepan,  cover  the  bottom  with  slices  of  onions,  and  lay  on  top  some 
slices  of  unsmoked  ham,  add  six  pounds  of  split  knuckle  of  veal,  four  pounds  of  beef  and  its  bones, 
two  pounds  of  parings  of  a  roasted  leg  of  mutton,  with  its  bones  broken,  and  four  pounds  of 
roasted  chicken  carcasses.  Moisten  with  one  quart  of  broth  (No.  421),  set  it  on  the  range,  cover, 
and  reduce  on  a  moderate  fire  until  the  gravy  becomes  perfectly  clear  and  falls  to  a  glaze, 
remoisten  with  eight  quarts  of  remoistening  (No.  189),  so  that  all  the  ingredients  are  covered,  then 
boil,  skim  and  season  with  salt,  whole  peppers,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  as 
much  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  four  cloves,  let  the  whole  cook  for  four  hours,  then  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  to  half,  and  then  clarify  it  with  one  pound  each 
of  veal  and  beef  chopped  up  together.  After  the  gravy  is  clear,  strain  it  through  a  napkin  and  it 
is  now  ready  for  use. 

A  gravy  may  be  made  by  remoistening  espagnole  sauce  stock  (No.  421),  and  adding  to  it  some 
roast  beef  bones,  chicken  carcasses,  etc. 

(405).  THICK  GEAVY  (Jus  Lie"). 

Cut  into  square  pieces,  six  pounds  of  a  shoulder  of  veal,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a 
pound  of  melted  lard  to  fry  on  a  moderate  fire,  turning  over  repeatedly  with  a  spoon;  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  later  put  in  one  pound  of  cut  up  carrots  and  four  ounces  of  onions;  continue  to  fry  the 
meats  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Now  moisten  them  with  the  value  of  one  pint  of 
remoistening  (No.  189),  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  the  liquid  reduce  until  it  has  fallen  to  a  glaze 
without  allowing  it  to  burn;  moisten  the  meats  again  with  eight  quarts  of  hot  broth  and  half  a 
bottleful  of  white  wine;  skim  the  liquid  at  the  first  boil,  then  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range 
and  throw  in  a  ham  bone,  a  partly  roasted  chicken  weighing  four  pounds,  also  a  few  chicken 
giblets,  add  a  few  whole  spices  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  aromatic  herbs.  When  the 
meats  are  about  three-quarters  done,  skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy  and  thicken  with  flour  dissolved 
in  cold  water,  two  tablespoonfuls  for  each  quart  of  liquid;  continue  to  boil  while  skimming  off 
more  fat,  and  half  an  hour  after,  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  let  it  come  to  a 
boil,  then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  despumate  for  twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  in  at 
intervals  a  few  spoonfuls  of  broth.  Skim,  remove  the  fat  once  more,  and  strain  the  gravy  into  a 
vessel  leaving  it  to  get  cold,  while  stirring  it  from  time  to  time. 

(406).  MATIGNON  (Matignon). 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound  of  onions,  half  a  pound  of  celery  root  and  two 
ounces  of  parsley  root  into  either  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  or  small  Julienne;  fry  them  lightly 
without  coloring  in  half  a  pound  of  chopped  up  fat  pork,  and  add  to  them  half  a  pound  of  ham  cut 
either  in  squares  or  Julienne  shape,  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  a  few  branches  of 
parsley  (about  half  an  ounce),  two  bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme  and  a  teaspoonful  of  mignonette; 
moisten  with  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423);  boil  and  reduce  the  moisture 
to  a  glaze. 

(407).  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Allemande). 

Allemande  sauce  is  made  by  reducing  some  veloute  (No.  415),  incorporating  a  little  good  raw 
cream  slowly  into  it.  When  the  sauce  is  succulent  and  creamy  thicken  it  with  a  thickening  of 
several  raw  egg-yolks,  then  boil  the  sauce  for  one  minute  to  cook  the  eggs,  pressing  against  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  with  a  spatula,  strain  it  through  a  tammy  into  a  vessel.  Stir  it  from  time  to 
time  until  cold. 

(408).  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE  WITH  MUSHEOOM  ESSENCE  (Sauce  Allemande  a  1'Essence  de  Cham- 
pignons). 

After  the  veloute"  (No.  415)  sauce  is  reduced  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  a  fifth  part  of  mushroom 
essence  (No.  392),  thicken  with  twelve  egg-yolks,  some  nutmeg  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  incor- 
porate slowly  a  part  of  the  sauce  into  the  thickening,  then  pour  the  whole  into  the  sauce,  adding 
the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  stir  at  the  bottom  Avith  a  spatula,  boil  the 
sauce  for  one  minute,  then  strain  through  a  tammy;  pour  it  in  a  high  saucepan  and  set  it  in  a 
bain-marie,  and  cover  it  with  a  little  white  stock  (No.  422)  to  prevent  the  surface  from  drying  or 
set  it  away  in  a  vessel  for  further  use. 


SAUCES.  293 

(409),  BECHAMEL  SAUCE  (Sauce  BfohameU 

This  is  made  by  preparing  a  roux  of  butter  and  flour,  and  letting  it  cook  for  a  few  minutes 
while  stirring,  not  allowing  it  to  color  in  the  slightest;  remove  it  to  a  slower  fire  and  leave  it  to 
continue  cooking  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  dilute  it  gradually  with  half  boiled  milk,  and  half 
veal  blond  (No.  423).  Stir  the  liquid  on  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  mingle  in  with  it  a  mirepoix  of 
roots  and  onions  (No.  419),  fried  separately  in  butter,  some  mushroom  peelings  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley;  set  it  on  a  slower  fire  and  let  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes  without  ceasing  to  stir  so  as 
to  avoid  its  adhering  to  the  bottom;  it  must  be  rather  more  consistent  than  light.  Strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve  then  through  a  tammy  into  a  vessel,  and  allow  it  to  cooi  off  while  continuing  to  stir; 
set  it  aside  for  further  use. 

(410)  CHICKEN  BECHAMEL  (Bechamel  de  Volaille), 

Lift  the  breasts  from  two  chickens,  bone  the  rest  of  them  and  cut  the  meats  into  three-eighth 
inch  squares;  cut  up  also  one  pound  of  lean  veal  the  same  size.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  onions  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  fry  slowly  without  letting 
them  attain  a  color,  then  add  the  chicken  and  veal,  and  when  all  are  well  fried,  throw  in  half  a 
pound  of  flour;  stir  well  and  let  the  flour  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  with  four  quarts 
of  chicken  bouillon  (No.  188);  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two 
bay  leaves  and  as  much  thyme,  then  let  boil  and  simmer  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  skim  oft0  the  fat 
and  scum  carefully.  Strain  the  bechamel  through  a  fine  sieve  and  then  a  tammy,  and,  to  reduce  it, 
add  one  quart  of  cream,  and  when  the  sauce  covers  the  spoon,  pass  again  through  the  tammy 
into  a  vessel;  stir  from  time  to  time  until  it  gets  cold. 

(411).  LEAN  BECHAMEL  WITH  CREAM  (Bechamel  Maigre  a  la  Oreme). 
Put  ten  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  onions  cut  in  three-sixteenth 
inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  carrots  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  celery 
root  cut  the  same;  fry  the  whole  on  a  slow  fire,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour.  Let  cook  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  boiled  milk;  stir  with  a  spatula  until  boiling  point; 
add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves  and  as  much  thyme,  season  with  salt  and 
whole  peppers,  and  let  cook  slowly  for  one  hour,  then  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  the  sauce  by 
adding  to  it  gradually  one  pint  of  cream ;  strain  the  whole  into  a  high  saucepan  through  a  tammy 
(No.  159)  and  keep  warm  in  a  bain-marie,  setting  a  few  pats  of  fresh  butter  on  top. 

(412).  BECHAMEL  WITH  MUSHROOM  ESSENCE  (Bechamel  a  1'Essence  de  Champignons). 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  three, 
sixteenth  inch  squares,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  veal  cut  in  three-eighth  inch  squares,  two 
ounces  of  carrots  cut  in  one-quarter  inch  squares  and  two  ounces  of  unsmoked  ham  cut  in  one- 
quarter  inch  squares,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves  and  as  much  thyme, 
and  let  these  fry  on  a  moderate  fire;  drain  off  the  butter,  and  add  four  quarts  of  veloute  (No.  415), 
seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  then  cook  the  whole  for  one  hour,  afterward  straining 
it  through  a  tammy,  and  reduce  it  with  one  quart  of  essence  of  mushrooms  (No.  392).  Strain  il 
again  through  the  tammy  and  just  when  ready  to  use,  incorporate  into  it  half  a  pound  of  fine, 
fresh  butter. 

(413).  HALF-GLAZE  SAUCE,  CLEAR  AND  THICKENED  (Sauce  demi-glace  Claire  et  lie"e). 

A  half  glaze  sauce  only  differs  from  an  espagnole  by  its  lightness.  This  sauce  is  generally 
made  in  large  quantities  at  the  time,  so  as  not  to  begin  it  so  frequently,  as  it  requires  the  utmost 
care  in  its  preparation.  Heat  in  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  clarified  butter,  and  when  it  is  very  hot 
fill  it  up  with  flour  so  as  to  obtain  a  paste  rather  too  light  than  otherwise;  thicken  it  well  while 
stirring  for  a  few  minutes  on  the  fire,  and  then  set  it  aside  in  a  warm  part  to  cook  and  brown  very 
slowly,  without  adhering  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  without  letting  it  get  black.  Five  or  six 
hours  after,  pour  it  into  a  vessel,  cover  it  with  paper,  and  let  this  roux  stand  to  get  cool. 

To  make  the  Sauce :  dilute  the  roux  very  slowly,  with  some  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  having  it  only 
slightly  warm,  and  prepared  for  this  purpose,  and  finish  it  exactly  like  the  espagnole;  it  must  be  as 
clear  as  possible  and  of  a  light  color;  strain  and  skim  it  well.  Stir  the  liquid  over  the  fire  to  thicken 
the  sauce,  managing  not  to  have  any  lumps  in  it,  and  should  it  not  be  perfectly  smooth,  then  strain 
it  through  a  fine  colander  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  four  ounces  each  of 


294  THE    EPICUREAN. 

sliced  carrots,  onions  and  celery  root;  the  same  quantity  of  lean  ham  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares, 
a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaves,  thyme  and  allspice,  fry  without  coloring,  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  whore,  add  four  gills  of  good  white,  dry  wine,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushroom 
parings,  and  let  all  boil  while  stirring,  then  remove  it  at  once  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  continue 
boiling  on  one  side  only,  so  as  to  be  able  to  despumate  it  properly  for  several  hours.  Strain  and 
put  as  much  of  this  as  is  needed  into  a  reducing  saucepan  with  two  gills  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401); 
boil,  reduce  it  to  the  necessary  degree,  using  a  spatula  to  stir  it  from  the  bottom,  without  leaving 
it  for  one  instant,  incorporate  slowly  into  it  a  little  good  veal  blond  (No.  423)  and  a  small  quantity 
of  good  white  wine.  When  the  sauce  is  succulent  without  being  too  thick,  strain  it  through  a 
tammy  and  pour  it  into  a  vessel,  or  else  into  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm  in  a  bain-marie. 

Clear  Half -Glaze  Thickened. — Have  a  quart  of  well-reduced  clear  gravy  (No.  404);  put  it  on 
the  fire  to  boil,  add  six  tablespoonfuls  and  skim  it  carefully,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fecula, 
arrowroot,  or  cornstarch,  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water,  pouring  it  slowly  into  the  stock  while  stir- 
ring it  with  a  whip;  boil  again,  skim  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve;  set  it  in  a  bain-marie  and 
cover  the  top  with  some  Madeira  wine. 

(414).  BROWN,  ESPAGNOLE  OE  SPANISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  Brune  Espagnole). 

Espagnole  or  Spanish  sauce  is  a  leading  sauce  from  which  many  smaller  ones  are  made. 
To  obtain  a  good  espagnole,  it  is  necessary  to  have  good  stock  (No.  421);  in  case  there  be  no  stock 
specially  prepared  for  this  purpose,  use  good  clear  broth.  For  four  quarts  of  stock,  melt  in  a 
saucepan  one  pound  of  butter,  stir  into  it  the  same  weight  of  very  dry,  good  flour,  so  as  to  obtain 
a  clear  paste;  then  let  it  cook  for  four  or  five  minutes  on  the  fire,  without  ceasing  to  stir,  and  after- 
ward set  it  back  on  to  a  very  slow  fire,  or  in  a  slack  oven,  to  let  it  get  a  good  dark  brown  color, 
being  careful  to  move  it  about  often.  When  the  roux  is  cooked,  take  it  from  the  oven  and  dilute 
with  the  prepared  stock,  not  having  it  too  hot,  and  stir  the  liquid  again  over  the  fire  to  bring  it  to 
a  boil.  Should  the  sauce  not  be  sufficiently  smooth — should  any  lumps  appear  in  it,  then  strain  it 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan;  and  at  the  first  boil,  set  it  on  one  side  so 
that  it  only  boils  partially,  and  let  it  despumate  in  this  way  for  two  or  three  hours.  Skim  off  well 
the  fat,  and  strain  the  broth  into  a  vessel  to  let  get  cold,  meanwhile  stirring  frequently. 

(415).  VELOUTE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Velout^e). 

The  veloute  like  the  espagnole  is  also  a  leading  sauce  used  for  making  secondary  sauces.  Melt 
three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  small  saucepan;  stir  into  it  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of 
good  flour,  and  let  the  roux  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  set  the  saucepan  on  a  slower  fire  with- 
out letting  it  color;  in  order  to  obtain  a  well  thickened  sauce,  the  flour  must  be  well  cooked. 
When  the  roux  is  sufficiently  done  dilute  it  gradually  with  four  quarts  of  good  stock  (No.  423). 
In  case  there  be  no  special  stock  prepared  for  this  sauce  then  use  some  good  clear  chicken  stock 
(No.  195).  Stir  the  liquid  over  the  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then  move  it  aside  to  let  it  cook  on 
one  side  only;  despumate  the  sauce  for  one  hour,  skimming  off  all  the  white  particles  arising  to  the 
surface;  remove  all  the  fat,  and  strain  the  veloute  through  a  sieve  into  a  vessel  and  let  it  get  cool 
while  lifting  off  the  scum  that  forms  on  the  top. 

(416)  VELOUTE  AND  BROWN,  ESPAGNOLE  OR  SPANISH  SAUCE  FOR  LEAN  (Sauce  Veloutee 

et  Espagnole  en  Maigre). 

The  lean  veloute  or  the  lean  Spanish  sauce  are  made  the  same  way  as  the  fat  (Nos.  414and415j, 
or  using  fish  stock  (No.  417);  for  lean  veloute  the  stock  must  be  reduced  to  a  glaze  without  coloring. 

(417).  HSH  STOCK  TOR  LEAN  ESPAGNOLE   AND  VELOUTE  SAUCE  (Fond  de  Poisson  pour 
Sauce  Espagnole  et  Sauce  Veloute"e  en  Maigre). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  sixteen-quart  thick  bottomed  saucepan,  and  cover  it  with  a  layer  of 
sliced  onions,  and  on  top  of  these  four  pounds  of  bony  fish  or  else  fish  bones  cut  into  pieces; 
moisten  with  one  pint  of  water  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  covering  the  saucepan,  and  let  it  reduce 
to  a  glaze.  Moisten  again  with  one  pint  of  white  wine  and  four  quarts  of  boiling  water;  skim  off 
the  fat  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme,  and  half  a 
pound  of  minced  carrots  and  four  ounces  of  celery,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  and  then  let  cook  slowly 
for  two  hours;  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  and  use  this  stock  for  diluting  the  roux. 


SAUCES.  295 

(418).  BEAISE  STOCK  POE  BEAISING  MEATS  (Pond  de  Braise), 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  one  pound  of  minced  onions,  one 
pound  of  minced  carrots,  and  on  top  place  either  a  leg  of  mutton,  a  piece  of  poultry,  a  tenderloin 
of  beef  or  a  kernel  of  veal.  Moisten  to  the  height  of  the  meat  with  some  beef  stock  (No.  194),  add  a 
bunch  of  parsley  containing  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  two  cloves;  season 
with  salt  and  whole  peppers,  and  after  it  has  cooked,  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  return  the 
stock  to  the  braised  meats  to  simmer  until  it  is  reduced  to  half.  This  braise  may  be  replaced  by  a 
mirepoix  stock  for  braising  meats. 

(419).  MIEEPOIX  STOCK  AND  DEY  MIEEPOIX  (Fond  de  Mirepoix  et  Mirepoix  Seche). 

This  is  the  essence  of  meats  and  vegetables.  Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  chopped  fat 
pork,  fry  it  until  melted,  and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  lean  veal  cut  in  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  squares,  and  one  pound  of  unsmoked  ham,  also  a  pound  of  carrots  and  six  ounces  of  onions 
cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much 
thyme,  some  basil,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  cloves,  and  mace.  Add  to  this  a  few  mushroom  parings, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  mignonette,  and  when  all  the  ingredients  are  well  fried  and  of  a  fine 
golden  color,  moisten  them  with  three  quarts  of  remoistening  (No.  189),  and  one  pint  of  white 
wine,  and  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine;  boil  the  whole  slowly  for  two  hours,  then  strain  it  forcibly 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159)  without  removing  the  fat.  Mirepoix  is  used  for  moistening  meats, 
fishes,  etc. 

Dry  Mirepoix  is  made  of  minced,  raw  vegetables,  and  roots  which  are  fried  in  lard  and 
moistened  with  some  good  stock  and  white  wine,  and  allowed  to  reduce  to  dryness.  It  is  employed 
to  cover  the  breasts  of  fowl,  game,  and  also  meats  that  are  to  be  roasted  on  the  spit. 

(420).  POELEE  STOCK  POE  COOKING  FOWL  OE  WHITE  GAME  MEAT  (Fond  de  Poele  pour 

Cuire  la  Volatile  et  le  Gibier  Blanc). 

Poeler. — Consists  in  cooking  fowls  or  white  game  meat,  the  breasts  of  which  are  covered  with  slices 
of  peeled  lemon,  then  barded  and  cooked  in  a  rich  stock  having  it  reach  to  half  their  heighth.  To 
make  the  stock  cut  up  one  pound  of  fat  pork,  and  half  a  pound  of  unsmoked  ham  into  quarter  inch 
squares;  one  pound  of  carrots  and  as  many  onions,  both  minced,  a  garnished  bouquet  of  bay  leaf 
and  as  much  thyme,  fry  the  whole  lightly  in  half  a  pound  of  butter,  adding  a  bunch  of  basil 
garnished  with  two  cloves,  mace,  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  moisten  all  with  two  quarts  of  veal  blond 
(No.  423),  add  salt,  ground  pepper. 

(421).  BEOWN,  ESPAGNOLE  OE  SPANISH  SAUCE  STOCK  (Fond  pour  Sauce  Brune  Espagnole). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  thick  bottomed  saucepan  and  garnish  it  with  slices  of  onions,  placing  on 
top  half  a  pound  of  ham,  some  slices  or  parings  of  fat  pork,  twelve  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal, 
shoulder,  and  trimmings,  six  pounds  of  beef  or  parings,  and  moisten  with  one  quart  of  beef  stock 
(No.  194a);  leave  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  until  the  broth  is  half  reduced,  then  cover  the  saucepan 
and  moderate  the  fire,  continue  to  boil  till  all  the  moisture  is  reduced  and  falls  to  a  glaze, 
which  is  easily  perceived  as  the  grease  then  becomes  clear;  moisten  it  once  more  with  eighteen 
quarts  of  beef  stock;  boil,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  two  bay 
leaves  and  as  much  thyme,  basil,  celery,  and  two  cloves  of  garlic,  also  one  pound  of  carrots  cut 
lengthwise  in  four,  salt,  ground  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar.  Cook  all  together  for  six  hours,  skim 
off  the  fat  and  strain  through  a  sieve  to  keep  for  further  use.  This  stock  is  used  for  moistening 
brown  roux. 

(422).  VELOUTE  STOCK  (Fond  pour  Veloute"). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  sixteen  quart  saucepan,  having  a  thick  bottom,  cover  it  with  sliced 
onions  and  on  top  of  these  lay  four  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal  and  shoulder,  half  of  each,  four 
pounds  of  fowl  without  the  breast,  and  moisten  with  one  pint  of  remoistening  (No.  189),  put  it  on 
a  brisk  fire  and  cover  the  saucepan,  as  soon  as  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  half,  moderate  the  fire 
and  let  the  sauce  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze  without  browning,  then  moisten  with  six  quarts  more  of 
white  broth,  skim  off  the  fat  and  scum  and  season  with  salt,  crushed  whole  peppers  and  a  little 
sugar,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  celery  green,  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves  and  as  much 
thyme,  also  half  an  ounce  of  basil,  besides  four  ounces  of  mushroom  parings  or  stalks  and  half  a 
pound  of  minced  carrots,  then  let  cook  for  six  hours,  remove  all  the  fat,  add  from  time  to  time 
a  little  remoir,tening  (No.  189),  salt  it  to  taste  and  strain  through  a  sieve  or  a  napkin.  Use 
when  needed. 


296  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(423).  VEAL  BLOND  STOCK  (fond  de  Blond  de  Veau). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  capable  of  containing  sixteen  quarts;  set  in  four  sliced  onions, 
and  on  top  of  these  four  pounds  of  split  knuckle  of  veal  and  four  pounds  of  shoulder  of  veal,  two 
fowls,  after  removing  the  breasts,  and  moisten  all  with  one  quart  of  beef  stock  (No.  194a).  Place 
the  saucepan  on  a  brisk  ftre,  keeping  the  lid  on,  and  reduce  the  moisture  by  moderating  the  heat  of 
the  fire,  and  letting  the  liquid  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze;  now  moisten  again  with  six  quarts  more  of 
beef  stock,  season  with  salt  and  whole  peppers,  and  add  four  leeks,  two  carrots,  cut  in  pieces,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  some  celery,  one  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme.  Cook  all  slowly  for  six  hours, 
then  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Chop  up  the  breasts  taken  from  the  two 
fowls  with  the  same  quantity  of  lean  beef,  and  mix  this  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  with  this  meat 
clarify  the  veal  blond  the  same  as  consomme;  then  strain  it  through  a  napkin. 

Veal  blond  should  be  clear,  succulent  and  of  a  nice  color,  the  grease  should  be  thoroughly 
removed  from  it;  added  to  clear  soups  it  greatly  improves  them;  it  is  also  used  in  reducing 
sauces. 


HOT  SAUCES, 


(424),  AFKICAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  I'Africaine). 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sautoire  and  when  hot  add  two  ounces  of  chopped  up  onions 
and  fry  without  coloring;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  and  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
add  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  half  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme.  Bring  the 
whole  to  a  boil,  skim,  remove  the  fat  and  let  cook  for  half  an  hour;  strain  through  a  tammy  and 
incorporate  slowly  into  the  sauce,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  cayenne  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  also  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  two  ounces  of  exceedingly  fine  cut  up  truffles. 

(425).  ALLEMANDE  WITH  EED  WINE  AND  PKUITS  (Allemande  au  Vin  Kouge  et  aux  Fruits). 
Cook  six  ounces  of  dry  black  cherries  or  prunes,  cut  in  four,  in  two  gills  of  red  wine  and  as 
much  water,  add  a  bit  of  cinnamon  stick,  three  cloves,  and  the  peel  from  one  lemon:  let  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes  on  a  slow  fire,  then  drain  and  add  to  the  juice  the  same  quantity  of  espagnole  (No. 
414)  as  there  is  sauce;  reduce,  skim,  and  after  the  liquid  is  well  reduced,  take  out  the  lemon 
peel,  cinnamon,  and  cloves,  then  put  the  cherries  back  into  the  sauce  and  serve.  Cherries  and 
prunes  may  both  be  used  together,  half  of  each. 

(426).  AMEEICAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Amencaine). 

Split  open  the  bodies  of  two  cooked  lobsters,  take  out  all  the  creamy  parts,  rub  them  through 
a  sieve,  and  keep  them  aside  for  further  use.  "Wipe  well  the  shells,  break  them  into  pieces  and  chop 
them  up  coarsely  on  the  table  with  the  thick  end  of  a  knife.  Fry  in  some  oil,  carrots,  celery,  pars- 
ley, shallots,  and  minced  onions,  add  to  these  the  chopped  shells  and  let  cook  all  together  until 
their  moisture  is  reduced,  then  moisten  slightly  above  their  height  with  white  wine  and  mirepoix 
(No.  419);  let  this  liquid  boil  up  for  two  minutes,  then  move  it  on  a  more  moderate  fire,  and  add 
some  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  basil.  Let  the  whole  cook  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes,  then 
strain  it  forcibly  through  a  sieve  into  a  bowl,  and  leave  it  to  settle  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
afterward  removing  all  the  fat,  pour  off  the  top  gently  into  a  sautoire,  pressing  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  let  it  reduce  to  a  half-glaze.  Mix  in  with  it  about  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  tomato 
sauce,  reduce  it  once  more  without  ceasing  to  stir  until  it  becomes  short  and  succulent,  by  mixing 
in  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  sherry  wine.  Strain  it  now  into  another  saucepan,  work  in  the 
butter,  and  finish  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  the  creamy  part  from  the 
bodies  already  strained.  This  sauce  should  be  served  as  quickly  as  it  is  made;  in  any  way  it  must 
be  kept  stirred  until  the  very  last  moment. 

(427).  ANCHOVY  SAUCES  (Sauce    aux  Anchois). 

Anchovy  Fat  Sauce. — Set  into  a  saucepan  half  a  pint  of  brown  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522);  the 
same  quantity  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  half  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423).  Allow  the  liquid 
to  boil  up  while  stirring  continuously,  then  despumate;  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  in  two 
ounces  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  569). 


SAUCES.  297 

For  Lean  Anchovy  Sauce. — Clean  twelve  anchovies,  by  removing  their  skin  and  tails;  wash  and 
pound  in  a  mortar;  to  this  pulp  add  double  their  quantity  of  butter,  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
incorporate  two  ounces  of  this  butter  into  one  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  562);  season,  and  add  a 
little  lemon  juice  and  nutmeg,  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy.  The  anchovy  butter  can 
be  replaced  by  essence  of  anchovies,  already  prepared  in  bottles;  in  this  case  incorporate  in  just 
when  prepared  to  serve,  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(428).  APPLE  SAUOES  (Sauce  aux  Pommes). 

Hot  with  Butter  and  Gravy. — Peel  a  pound  of  sour  apples,  cut  them  in  quarter  inch  thick 
slices,  and  remove  the  cores.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  sauteing  pan  and  when 
hot,  throw  in  the  apples  and  let  them  fry  on  both  sides  until  they  are  a  fine  color,  then  moisten 
with  four  gills  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar  (or  cayenne  pepper)  if 
preferred,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  press  the  apples  through  a  sieve  and  serve  hot. 

For  Hot  or  Cold. — Peel  and  core  one  pound  of  sour  apples,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
pint  of  water  and  when  done,  drain  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve;  now  add  sugar,  nutmeg,  and 
an  ounce  of  butter  and  serve  the  sauce  hot;  for  the  cold  suppress  the  butter. 

(429).  ARGENTINE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Argentine). 

Put  into  a  sautoir,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil;  set  it  on  the  fire  and  when  hot,  add  two  ounces 
of  chopped  onions,  and  a  finely  shreded  green  pepper,  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  a  bunch 
of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  as  much  thyme;  fry  the  whole  without  attaining  color; 
then  drain  off  the  oil  and  moisten  with  one  gill  of  white  wine,  and  two  gills  of  tomato  puree 
(No.  730);  season,  and  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  meat 
glaze;  boil  the  whole,  skim  carefully,  and  reduce  to  a  proper  consistency;  pass  through  a  tammy 
and  serve. 

(430).  AUROEA  SAUCE,  PAT  AND  LEAN  (Sauce  a  1'Aurore,  en  Gras  et  en  Maigre). 

For  Fat. — Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  with  essence  of  mushrooms 
(No.  392),  and  half  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423);  reduce  to  half,  strain  through  a  tammy,  heat 
it  up  once  more  and  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  two  ounces  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  into 
the  sauce. 

For  Lean. — Have  in  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  pound  four  hard 
boiled  egg-yolks  with  four  ounces  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  press  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  the 
two  together  adding  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  strain  through  a  tammy  and  serve  hot. 

(431).  BAENAVE  SAUCE  (Sauce  &  la  Barnave). 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  when  hot  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  red 
carrots  blanched  and  the  same  quantity  of  onions,  both  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  pieces.  First  fry 
the  onions,  then  add  the  carrots  and  fry  together  a  little,  add  a  garnished  bunch,  of  parsley  with 
thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  pound  of  game  carcasses  and  when  a  good  color  add  half  a  bottle  of  red 
wine  and  a  pint  of  broth.  Let  all  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  skim  it  carefully,  strain  the 
sauce  through  a  tammy  or  sieve,  dilute  it  again  with  another  pint  of  broth  and  throw  in  an  ounce 
of  very  fresh  bread  raspings,  an  ounce  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  one  orange. 

(432).  BAVAEOISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Bavaroise). 

Reduce  to  half  its  volume  one  gill  of  vinegar;  take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  get  cold,  then 
add  one  gill  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  four  raw  egg-yolks  and  four  ounces  of  butter  divided  into 
small  pats,  a  gill  of  water,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Stir  the  preparation  over  a  moderate  fire  until  it 
thickens,  then  incorporate  into  it  three  ounces  of  butter,  a  small  bit  at  a  time,  working  it  in  well 
with  a  whip  so  as  to  have  it  light,  add  to  finish,  three  ounces  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  grated  horseradish. 

(433).  BEAENAISE  SAUCE,  HOT  MAYONNAISE,  AND  WITH  TOMATOES  (Sauces  B^arnaise, 

Mayonnaise  Ohaude  et  aux  Tomates). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  gill  of  vinegar  with  two  ounces  of  chopped  shallots,  also  a  few  tarragon 
leaves;  cover  the  saucepan  with  its  lid,  and  reduce  the  liquid  almost  completely,  then  take  it  from 
off  the  fire.  Let  the  vinegar  get  slightly  cold,  and  afterward  mix  in  with  it  four  raw  egg-yolks, 


298  THE    EPICUREAN. 

season  with  salt  and  mignonette,  and  return  it  to  a  slow  fire,  and  then  incorporate  into  it  slowly 
three  ounces  of  clarified  butter,  stirring  it  continually  in  the  meanwhile  with  a  small  whip;  now 
strain  it  through  a  tammy;  whip  it  well,  and  mix  in  with  it  a  coffeespoonful  of  chopped  tarragon, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  parsley.  This  sauce  should  have  the  consistency  of  a  mayon- 
naise, and  can  also  be  made  the  same  as  the  above,  with  half  butter  and  half  oil. 

Hot  Mayonnaise. — Is  made  the  same  as  a  bearnaise,  only  using  oil  and  suppressing  the 
tarragon. 

Hot  Mayonnaise  with  Tomatoes. — Pour  one  quart  of  hot  mayonnaise  in  a  deep  saucepan,  set  it 
either  on  a  slow  fire  or  in  a  bain-marie,  and  when  it  begins  to  curdle,  take  it  off  and  beat  it  up 
quickly,  adding  a  little  cold  water;  continue  the  beating  process  until  perfectly  smooth,  then  heat  it 
again  stirring  vigorously  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  and  finish  by  adding  eight  tablespoonfuls  of 
well  reduced  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  and  some 
lemon  juice.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  mix  in  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  little 
cold  water. 

(434).  BEKCHOUX  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Berchoux). 

Put  into  a  sautoire  one  pint  of  milk  and  let  boil,  then  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  bread-crumbs; 
season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  and  red  pepper  and  moisten  with  the  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne. 
Now  pound  a  pinch  of  tarragon  with  two  pinches  of  chervil,  and  a  quarter  of  a  clove  of  garlic;  when 
it  becomes  a  pulp  add  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  a  little  spinach  green  to  color.  Incor- 
porate this  butter  into  the  sauce,  strain  through  a  fine  tammy;  if  the  sauce  should  be  too 
thick  add  a  little  cream. 

(435).  BIGAEADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  &  la  Bigarade). 

A  bigarade  orange  is  a  sour  orange  before  it  changes  to  an  orange  color;  peel  it  without  touch- 
ing the  white  parts,  usinga  peeling  knife  (Fig.  156),  cut  the  peel  up  into  small  fine  Julienne,  plunge 
it  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  it  until  it  is  tender;  drain  and  enclose  it  in  a  covered  saucepan  with 
four  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  or  veloute  (No.  415)  if  needed  for  a  white  sauce.  Just  when 
ready  to  serve,  finish  the  sauce  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  meat  glaze,  the  orange  juice  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon;  strained  through  a  tammy,  adding  two  ounces  of  fine  butter.  The  bigarade 
can  be  replaced  by  an  orange  and  a  lemon,  using  the  peel  and  juice  of  both  fruits. 

(436).  BOEDELAISE  SAUCE,  WITH  MAREOW  AND  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  WITH  MAEEOW 
(Sauce  Bordelaise,  a  la  Moelle  et  Maitre  d'Hotel  a  la  Moelle). 

Bordelaise  Sauce. — Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  bottleful  of  Bordeaux  wine,  adding  a  small 
garnished  bouquet  containing  a  little  garlic,  half  a  bay  leaf,  and  two  cloves;  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  the  peelings  and  stalks  of  some  chopped  mushrooms,  one  tablespoonful  of  blanched 
shallots  lightly  fried  in  three  spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  half  a  pint  of 
veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  season  with  salt,  mignonette  and  cayenne,  boil,  skim  off  the  fat  and  then 
pour  in  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  and  when  the  sauce  is  reduced,  strain  it  through  a  tammy 
and  stir  in  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley;  a  pound  of  beef  marrow  cut  in  either  squares  or 
slices  may  be  added  to  the  bordelaise  just  when  ready  to  serve.  A  simpler  way  is  to  brown  some 
minced  shallots  in  oil  with  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic,  adding  red  wine  and  gravy,  then  reduce  it  to 
half,  pour  in  the  espagnole,  boil,  skim  off  the  fat  and  serve. 

Bordelaise  Sauce  with  Marrow. — Fry  minced  shallots  in  oil  with  a  clove  of  garlic  (crushed); 
moisten  with  red  wine  and  reduced  gravy,  add  some  espagnole;  boil  and  despumate,  then  put  in 
squares  of  beef  marrow  or  else  have  them  cut  in  slices  and  plunged  into  boiling  water  and  drained; 
add  only  when  ready  to  serve. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  with  Marrow. — Have  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581),  slightly  melted, 
into  which  add  four  ounces  of  shallots  for  each  pound  of  butter,  the  shallots  being  cut  into  one- 
eighth  inch  squares,  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  or  chicken  glaze,  and  add  just  when  ready 
to  serve,  slices  of  marrow  previously  thrown  into  boiling  water  and  drained. 

(437).  BOUEGUIGNOTTE  SAUCE-LEAN  (Sauce  a  la  Bourguignotte-Maigre). 
Cut  a  pound  of  eels  into  slices  being  careful  that  they  are  very  fresh;  put  these  into  a  saucepan 
with  two  quarts  of  water,  two  ounces  of  minced  onions  and  two  ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme,  two  minced  shallots,  pepper  and  all- 


SAUCES.  299 

spice.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  continue  the  boiling  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  strain  the  liquid  and  reduce  it,  adding  one  pint  of  lean  espagnole  sauce  (No.  416), 
and  a  little  lean  broth  (No.  417);  let  boil  once  again,  despumate  it,  pour  in  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful 
of  good  white  wine;  boil  and  despumate  again  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  another  quarter  of  a  bottle 
of  white  wine,  making  half  a  bottleful  in  all;  Volnay  wine  is  excellent  for  this  sauce.  After  it  is 
reduced  to  a  proper  consistency,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  into  it  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573). 

(438).  BREAD  SAUCES,  AMERICAN,  ENGLISH,  TRENCH,  REGLAIN  AND  GERMAN  PRIED 
(Sauces  au  Pain,  Ameiicaine,  Anglaise,  Franpaise,  Reglain  et  Frite  a  rAllemande). 

American. — Put  into  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  butter  with  one  ounce  of  finely  chopped 
onions,  fry  them  lightly  without  coloring  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  add  two  ounces 
of  bread-crumbs,  salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  cloves,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  little  cream 
to  finish.  This  sauce  should  be  consistent  and  hot  without  boiling. 

English  is  made  exactly  the  same,  only  replacing  the  fried  onions  by  a  raw  onion  cut  in 
four,  and  whole  peppers  instead  of  the  cayenne. 

French. — Chop  up  a  shallot  and  a  quarter  of  a  clove  of  garlic,  putting  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  two  gills  of  white  wine;  let  simmer  and  reduce,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  very 
fine  bread-crumbs,  a  little  fresh  butter,  a  dash  of  mignonette  and  grated  nutmeg  and  two  gills  of 
broth,  let  reduce  to  half,  then  squeeze  in  some  lemon  juice  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

A  la  Reglain. — Set  four  gills  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  adding  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs 
and  one  shallot  cut  in  small  eighth  inch  squares,  a  whole  clove  of  garlic,  and  let  heat  without  boil- 
ing for  a  few  minutes,  seasoning  with  salt,  a  little  cayenne  and  nutmeg,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  raw  fine  herbs,  one  gill  of  white  wine  and  the  juice  of  an  orange. 

Fried  German. — Melt  and  heat  gradually  half  a  pound  of  butter  so  as  to  obtain  a  hazel-nut 
butter,  incorporate  into  it  three  ounces  of  white  bread-crumbs,  cook  it  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  without  ceasing  to  stir,  salt  it  lightly  and  take  off  the  fire  to  pour  into  a  hot  sauce  boat. 

(439).  BRETONNE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Bretonne). 

Mince  up  four  ounces  of  onions,  fry  them  in  two  ounces  of  clarified  butter,  and  when  fried 
without  attaining  a  coior,  drain  them  and  moisten  with  one  gill  of  veal  blond  (No.  423);  reduce 
and  let  fall  to  a  glaze.  Add  one  gill  of  veloute  (No.  415)  if  for  white,  and  espagnole  (No.  414)  if 
for  brown;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  meat  glaze;  strain  it  forcibly  through  a  sieve,  and 
incorporate  into  the  sauce  just  when  ready  to  serve,  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter.  For  a  lean, 
sauce,  moisten  with  some  fish  stock  (No.  417),  and  lean  veloute  or  espagnole  (No.  416)  and  fish 
glaze  (No.  399). 

(440).  BUTTER  SAUCE  (Sauce  au  Beurre). 

Put  into  a  saucepan,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  dilute  it  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  water, 
add  some  salt  and  whole  peppers,  one  clove,  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter.  Set  it 
on  the  fire,  and  stir  well  until  it  boils;  then  allow  it  to  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes;  remove  it 
from  the  fire,  and  incorporate  into  it  by  degrees,  one  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.  If  the  sauce  should  become  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  water,  then  strain  it  through  a 
tammy.  With  this  sauce  a  quantity  of  other  sauces  may  be  made  such  as  caper,  egg,  oyster,  horse- 
radish, etc. 

(441).  CAPER  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Capres). 

Set  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  butter,  mix  it  with  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  flour;  beat  the 
flour  and  butter  well  together  with  a  spoon,  so  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste;  now  moisten  it  with 
two  gills  of  water,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  stir  the  liquid  on  the  fire  until  the  sauce  becomes  thick. 
At  the  first  boil,  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range.  It  should  be  somewhat  more  consistent  than 
thin.  Incorporate  into  it  gradually,  two  ounces  of  butter  divided  into  small  pats,  the  sauce  should 
now  be  creamy;  remove  it  and  finish  by  adding  some  small  nonpareil  capers,  arid  the  juice  of  a 
lemon;  then  serve. 

(442).  CARDINAL  SAUCE,  FAT  AND  LEAN  (Sauce  Cardinal  en  Gras  et  en  Maigre). 
For  Fat. — Reduce  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415).  with  two  gills  of  mushroom  essence  (No.  392), 
or  else  veal  blond  (No.  423),  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  meat, 
ctrcken,  or  game  glaze  (No.  401),  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.     Serve 
in  a  sauce-boat,  and  dredge  over  the  top  chopped-up  lobster  coral. 


300  THE    EPICUREAN. 

For  Lean. — Soak  six  carp  milts  in  cold  water,  cook  them  for  ten  minutes  in  white  broth  (No. 
195)  with  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  salt,  and  half  an  ounce  of  fine  butter,  then  drain;  put  into  a 
saucepan  six  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  bechamel  (No.  409),  add  to  it  a  gill  of  cream;  boil,  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  beat  in  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  strain  through  a  tammy,  add 
the  milts,  and  heat  them  up  rolling  them  in  the  sauce.  Serve  in  a  sauce-boat,  dredging  the  top 
with  some  very  finely  chopped  lobster  coral. 

(443).  OASTILLANE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Oastillane). 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  six  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  two  gills  of  veal  blond  (No. 
423),  reduce  it  to  a  third,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sweet  Spanish  peppers,  a  very 
finely  shreded  green  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raw  lean  ham  cut  into  small  three- 
sixteenth  inch  squares,  boil  all  slowly,  despumate  the  sauce,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

(444).  CELERY  SAUCE  (Sauce  au  Oeleri). 

Have  half  a  pound  of  white  celery  stalks  cut  in  quarter  inch  pieces,  put  them  in  boiling  and 
salted  water  for  five  minutes,  drain  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  white  stock  (No. 
422).  then  reduce  it  to  half,  adding  a  pint  of  well-reduced  veloute  (No.  415),  and  just  when  ready 
to  serve,  incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of  fine  butter  and  half  a  gill  of  fresh  cream,  seasoning 
with  salt,  nutmeg  and  red  pepper. 

(445).  CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE,  ALSO  WITH  OHABLIS,  RHINE  WINE,  SAUTERNE  OR  GRAVE- 
WINE  (Sauce  au  Champagne,  Chablis,  Vin  du  Rhin,  Sauterne  ou  Grave). 

The  sauces  may  be  made  white  or  brown  for  a  base;  for  white,  using  veloute  (No.  415),  for 
the  brown,  having  a  brown  espagnole  (No.  414).  Reduce  one  quart  of  espagnole  with  half  a  pint  of 
mushroom  essence  (No.  392),  or  the  liquor  in  which  they  have  been  cooked,  also  a  pint  of  mirepoix 
stock  (No.  419),  add  a  pint  of  champagne  or  any  other  wine  and  reduce  once  more  until  the 
sauce  be  sufficiently  consistent.  If  made  with  veloute"  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  small 
pats  of  butter. 

(446).  CHATEAUBRIAND  SAUCE  (Sauce  Chateaubriand). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  meat 
glaze  (No.  401),  one  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  reduce  it  all  to  half,  then  strain  through  a 
tammy,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  half  a  pound  of  fine  butter,  the  strained  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  To  make  it  with  tarragon  put  into  a  saucepan  two 
gills  of  dry  white  wine  with  some  chopped  shallots  and  mushroom  peelings,  and  reduce  it  all  to 
half.  Mix  in  with  it  six  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  and  finish  with  three  gills  of 
reduced  veloute  (No.  415),  let  it  boil  for  two  minutes,  then  strain;  at  the  last  moment  mingle  in 
with  it  three  ounces  of  butter  in  small  pats,  working  it  in  well  with  a  small  tinned  wire  whisk;  add 
the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  few  finely  shreded  tarragon  leaves. 

(447).    CHERRY  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Cerises). 

Lay  in  a  saucepan,  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly  with  six  cloves,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon, 
two  orange  peels,  one  ounce  of  meat  glaze.  (No.  401),  half  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  one  pint 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  one  gill  of  Burgundy,  and  four  ounces  of  dried  and  pounded  cherries, 
let  all  boil  together  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  strained  juice  of  two  oranges,  mix  all  together 
well,  and  serve. 

Another  way  is  to  have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dried  black  cherries  with  their  pits;  soften 
them  in  cold  water,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  three  gills  of  red  wine;  pour  the  prepara- 
tion into  an  untinned  copper  vessel,  add  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  two  cloves,  also  a  piece 
of  lemon  peel;  let  the  liquid  boil  for  two  minutes,  then  thicken  it  with  a  teaspoonful  of  fecula 
diluted  with  a  little  cold  water;  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  cover,  and  keep  it  warm  without 
boiling  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and  serve. 

(448).  CHERVIL  OR  PARSLEY  PLUOHE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Pluche  de  Cerfeuil  ou  de  Persil), 

A  pluche  is  the  leaves  of  either  parsley  or  chervil  blanched  and  combined  with  a  sauce  or  soup. 
Reduce  one  pint  of  veloute"  (No.  415)  with  two  gills  of  white  wine;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  just  when  serving  incorporate  into  it  four  ounces  of  fresh 
butter.  Should  the  sauce  be  too  thick  add  a  little  broth  (No.  187),  and  then  put  in  a  heavy 
pinch  of  blanched  chervil  or  parsley  leaves. 


SAUCES.  301 

(449).  OHIVEY  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  CbJvry). 

Blanch  in  a  red  copper  untinned  vessel  a  handful  of  herbs  composed  of  parsley  leaves  a  third; 
chervil  a  third;  pimpernel  a  sixth,  and  tarragon  a  sixth;  drain  them  and  extract  well  all  their 
moisture,  then  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  a  pinch  of  chives,  pound  them  finely,  adding  a  piece 
of  butter,  and  after  removing  the  preparation  from  the  mortar  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  add  to 
it  three  gills  of  reduced  veloute  (No.  415)  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Color  the  sauce  with 
a  little  spinach  green  or  green  vegetal  coloring. 

(450).  CLEKMONT  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Clermont). 

Cut  six  medium  onions  in  two;  then  remove  the  stalk  and  root  from  both  ends  giving  a  sharp 
slanting  blow  with  the  knife,  so  when  they  are  removed  the  onions  easily  fall  apart;  then  mince 
them  up  finely.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  hot,  add  the 
onions,  and  fry  them  slowly  so  that  they  become  a  nice  golden  color,  then  drain  off  the  butter, 
and  finish  cooking  with  a  quart  of  remoistening  (No.  189);  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar, 
and  when  the  onions  are  well  done,  and  the  stock  reduced  to  half,  add  to  it  a  pint  of  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401);  season  nicely  and  serve. 

(451).  OOLBEET,  ENGLISH  AND  TAEEAGON  SAUCES  (Sauce  a  la  Colbert,  a  1'Anglaise  et  a 

1'Estragon). 

Colbert. — Boil  up  one  gill  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  in  a  saucepan,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and 
then  incorporate  into  it  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  working  them  well  together  with  an  egg-whisk, 
until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  melted;  then  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  some  grated  nutmeg, 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  sherry  wine;  strain  through  a  tammy,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

English. — Put  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  containing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  and  two  of  mushroom  catsup,  the  same  quantity  of  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  401);  take 
it  off  when  it  bubbles,  then  work  slowly  into  it  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter,  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  strain  through  a  tammy  and  serve. 

With  Tarragon  or  Chervil. — Pour  a  gill  of  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  into  a  saucepan;  at  the 
first  boil  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  whip  in  with  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  divided  into  small 
pats;  finish  the  sauce  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  half  a  spoonful  of  tarragon  leaves,  or  else 
a  spoonful  of  chervil  leaves,  one  or  the  other  finely  cut  up. 

(452).  CEAB  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Orabes). 

Have  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  562),  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  and 
the  same  quantity  of  ground  mace,  also  two  ounces  of  crab  meat  cut  in  dice,  or  if  possible  some 
oyster  crabs  blanched  in  their  own  oyster  juice,  and  drained. 

(453).  OEAWPISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Ecrevisses). 

Fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  carrots,  one  ounce  of  celery  root,  one  ounce  of  onions, 
and  one  ounce  of  shallot,  a  few  parsley  leaves,  thyme,  one  bay  leaf,  and  one  clove  of  garlic. 
Moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  and  let  the  whole  cook  for  ten  minutes,  adding  to  it 
twenty-four  well  washed  crawfish,  a  little  salt  and  mignonette.  Cook  all  together  for  five  minutes, 
while  tossing  them  up  frequently,  then  take  out  the  crawfish  and  let  the  stock  settle;  pour  off 
gently  the  top,  straining  it  through  a  very  fine  sieve;  then  reduce  it  to  half  and  add  a  pint  of  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  reduce  it  once  more.  Shell  the  crawfish,  take 
the  meat  from  the  tails  and  lay  them  on  one  side;  pound  the  remainder  with  five  ounces  of  butter, 
heat  it,  and  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  bowl  filled  with  ice  water;  lift  up  the  butter,  wipe 
it,  and  incorporate  this  butter  into  the  sauce;  color  it  with  orchanet  or  else  vegetable  carmine,  and 
strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Add  the  crawfish  meat  cut  in  small  dice  to  the  sauce,  and  serve  at  once. 

(454).  CEEAM  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Crime), 

Put  into  a  small  saucepan,  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  reduce  it  with  two  gills  of  cream; 
when  ready,  incorporate  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  season  with  salt  and  a  dash 
of  cayenne  pepper. 


302  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(455),  CUEEANT  SAUCE,  WITH  EED  WINE,  POET  WINE,  CALIFORNIA  WINE,  WHITE  WINE 
AND  WHITE  CUEEANTS  (Sauce  Groseilles  au  vin  de  Bordeaux,  au  viu  de  Porto,  au  vin 
de  Californie,  au  vin  Blanc  et  aux  Groseilles  Blanches). 

Plain  currant  jelly  without  being  heated  may  be  served  with  canvasback  duck  and  saddle  of 
venison.  But  if  some  people  prefer  sauce,  the  following  will  be  found  good: 

Currant  Sauce  with  Red  Bordeaux  Wine. — Put  half  a  bottle  of  Bordeaux  wine  into  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  and  when  the  wine  begins  to  simmer  take  it  off,  and  put  into  it,  to  infuse,  ten  cloves,  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  and  a  bit  of  cinnamon;  leave  them  in  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  add  to  it  half  a 
pound  of  currant  jelly  and  two  ounces  of  sugar,  more  or  less,  according  to  taste;  dissolve  and  mix 
well,  and  when  thoroughly  melted,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  sieve  and  serve  it  hot. 

Currant  Sauce  with  Port  Wine. — Put  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
dilute  it  with  half  a  bottleful  of  port  wine  and  one  pint  of  brown  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and 
when  well  dissolved  strain  through  a  sieve  and  serve  hot. 

Currant  Sauce  with  California  Wine. — Melt  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly  with  half  a  pint 
of  red  California  wine,  and  when  well  dissolved  strain  it  through  a  tammy  and  serve  hot. 

Currant  Sauce  with  White  Wine. — Made  with  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly,  a  pinch  of 
cinnamon,  the  same  of  ground  cloves,  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  and  a  pint  of  veloute  (No. 
415),  besides  the  pulp  of  one  lemon;  strain  through  a  sieve  and  serve  hot. 

White  Currant  Sauce. — Blanch  and  strain  a  pint  of  picked  white  currants,  mix  in  with  them 
half  a  pound  of  apple  with  orange  jelly,  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  half  a  pint  of  veloute  (No. 
415).  Dissolve  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine;  strain  through  a  tammy  and  serve  hot. 

(456).  CUEEY  SAUCES,  INDIAN  AND  WITH  APPLES  (Sauces  au  Kari,  k  ITndienne  et  aux 

Pommes). 

Curry. — Brown  in  some  butter  four  ounces  of  minced  onions,  adding  to  it  one  teaspoonful  of 
curry;  two  minutes  later  moisten  with  two  gills  of  veloute  (No.  415),  two  ounces  of  mushroom 
peelings,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf.  Reduce  the  sauce,  and  pour  into  it 
slowly  about  two  gills  of  chicken  broth  (No.  188),  and  at  the  very  last  moment  two  spoonfuls  of 
good  raw  cream.  Pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  and  incorporate  into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter, 
then  heat  it  up  without  boiling. 

Curry,  Indian. — Put  into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  ham,  two  ounces  of  onions,  two  ounces 
of  mushrooms,  all  minced  up  very  fine,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  as  much  bayleaf  as  thyme, 
one  onion  with  three  cloves  in  it,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  sweet  Spanish  pepper,  a  dash  of 
cayenne  pepper,  a  dessertspoonful  of  curry,  a  pinch  of  mace  and  one  quart  of  chicken  broth 
(No.  188).  Let  simmer  and  reduce  to  half ;  add  one  quart  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  a 
pinch  of  saffron,  pass  it  through  a  tammy  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

Curry  with  Apples. — Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  adding  to  it  four  ounces  of 
apples,  four  ounces  of  onions,  two  ounces  of  ham,  all  finely  shreded,  a  pinch  of  mace,  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper-corns,  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme.  Set  the  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  let  all 
fry  till  the  onions  begin  to  brown,  being  careful  to  stir  it  constantly,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
curry,  the  same  of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  two  gills  of  veal 
blond  (No.  423)  and  one  teaspoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401).  Pass  all  through  a  tammy  and 
add  two  gills  of  cream. 

(457).  DANISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Danoise). 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  with  four  ounces  of  thinly  sliced  ham,  and  when 
lightly  fried  and  a  fine  color,  drain  off  the  butter;  detach  the  glaze  with  a  gill  of  broth,  add  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme  and  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414);  cook  slowly,  despu- 
mate,  season  well,  and  pass  the  sauce  through  either  a  sieve  or  a  tammy.  Cut  four  ounces  of 
chicken  fillets,  eight  of  mushrooms,  and  four  of  ham,  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  put  them 
into  the  sauce  with  a  small  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

(458).  D'ANTIN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  d'Antin), 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  two  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  one-eighth  inch 
squares,  and  fry  them  without  letting  them  attain  color;  moisten  with  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No. 
414),  one  gill  of  Madeira,  and  one  gill  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  add  half  an  ounce  of  chopped 


SAUCES.  303 

truffles,  two  ounces  of  mushrooms  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  small  pinch  of  tarragon  leaves;  and  also  one  coffeespoonful  of  chopped 
chives. 

(459).  DEVILED  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  Diable). 

Lay  in  a  saucepan  three  tablespoonf uls  of  vinegar,  two  ounces  of  one-eighth  inch  squares  of 
shallot,  a  few  parsley  leaves,  one  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme,  and  a  clove  of  garlic  crushed  and 
chopped;  let  the  whole  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  a  pinch  of 
mignonette,  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  a  gill  of  red  wine,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  diluted 
mustard,  also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce. 

(460).  DIANA  SAUCE  (Sauce  &  la  Diane). 

Into  a  saucepan  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  when  hot  add  to  it  one  medium  onion,  two 
shallots,  one  ounce  of  celery,  all  cut  up  very  finely,  and  a  bay  leaf,  and  when  these  ingredients  are 
well  fried,  add  to  them  one  pound  of  raw  game  carcass,  and  let  the  whole  color  nicely,  adding  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  to  make  a  roux,  brown  it  slightly  and  then  moisten  with  one  pint  of  veloute" 
stock  (No.  422)  and  a  pint  of  cream.  Let  the  sauce  cook  and  despumate  for  half  an  hour,  seasoning 
it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  afterward  through  a  tammy, 
return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and  reduce  it  properly,  incorporating  into  it  two  ounces  of  butter. 

(461).  DUXELLE  SAUCE  WITH  COOKED  PINE  HERBS  AND  TRUFFLES  (Sauce  &  la  Duxelle 

aux  Fines  Herbes  Guiles  et  aux  TruffesX 

Set  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  grated  salt  pork,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  six  shallots  cut 
in  squares;  one  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped  garlic;  when  all  these  are  fried  without  coloring  add 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms,  a  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme  and  two  cloves.  Mois- 
ten the  whole  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  broth,  one  pint  of  espag- 
nole (No.  414)  or  veloute  (No.  415),  if  for  white  and  let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  truffles  and  a  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  take  out  the  bayleaf , 
thyme  and  cloves. 

(462).  EGG  SAUCE,  ENGLISH  AND  POLISH  (Sauce  aux  ceufs,  k  1'Anglaise  et  k  la  Polonaise). 

For  English  Egg  Sauce. — Put  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  in  a  saucepan  with  some  pepper, 
nutmeg,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  four  hard  boiled  eggs  chopped  up  over  a  white  cloth,  and  then 
added  to  the  sauce  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Should  the  sauce  be  too  thick  dilute 
it  with  some  mushroom  broth  and  white  broth. 

For  Polish  Egg  Sauce. — Have  six  small  hard  boiled  eggs;  chop  up  the  whites  and  yolks  separ- 
ately; put  into  a  sufficiently  large  frying  pan  half  a  pound  of  clarified  butter,  let  it  heat  until  it 
becomes  hazel-nut  butter,  then  season  with  salt,  a  tablespoonful  or  chopped  parsley,  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  diluted  mustard  and  the  chopped  eggs;  mix  all  without  boiling  and  pour  into  a  sauce-boat 
to  be  served  separately. 

(463).  FENNEL  SAUCE  < Sauce  au  Fenouil). 

Put  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  a  spoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  into  a  saucepan,  and 
let  them  come  to  a  boil,  then  thicken  with  one  egg-yolk  and  some  fresh  butter,  adding  the  juice  of 
one  lemon,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  very  finely  chopped  fennel. 

(464).  FINANCIERE  SAUCE  FOR  FAT  AND  FOR  LEAN  AND  WITH  GAME  AND  CHICKEN 
(Sauce  k  la  Financiere  en  gras  et  en  Maigre  et  au  Gibier  et  a  la  Volaille). 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  four  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  cut  in  three- 
sixteenth  inch  squares,  fry  without  coloring  and  then  throw  in  four  ounces  of  mushrooms  or  their 
parings,  two  bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme,  one  ounce  of  truffle  parings  and  two  gills  of  dry  Madeira 
or  sherry,  let  simmer  and  reduce  over  a  slow  fire.  Moisten  with  one  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423), 
and  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  then  let  boil  and  despumate,  adding  a  gill  more  Madeira, 
and  when  the  suce  is  done,  strain  it  through  a  tammy. 

For  Lean. — Replace  the  ham  by  smoked  salmon  or  sturgeon,  the  sherry  by  sauterne,  the  veal 
blond  by  fish  stock  (No.  417),  and  use  lean  espagnole,  and  then  finish  the  same  as  for  the  fat. 


304  THE    EPICUREAN. 

For  Financiers  Sauce  with  Game  or  Chicken. — Infuse  in  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  warm 
white  wine  or  champagne,  two  ounces  of  mushrooms  and  one  of  truffles.  Place  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  finely  minced  raw  ham,  and  when  it  is  fried,  drain  off  the 
butter  and  moisten  with  one  pint  either  of  chicken  or  game  stock  (No.  195),  one  pint  of  espagnole 
(No.  414),  and  the  infused  mushrooms  and  truffles;  season  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and 
let  boil,  skim  and  reduce  it  to  a  proper  degree.  Strain  the  sauce  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  bain  marie. 

(465).  HNNOISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  &  la  KnnoiseX 

Put  two  gills  of  veloute  (No.  415)  into  a  saucepan  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  meat 
glaze  (No.  401),  a  pinch  of  paprika  and  a  pinch  of  sweet  Spanish  pepper  and  salt;  mix  all  well 
together,  let  boil,  and  incorporate  slowly  into  it  six  ounces  of  butter,  working  it  in  with  a  wire  whisk, 
and  then  add  a  coffeespoonful  of  chopped  up  parsley  just  when  prepared  to  serve. 

(466).  rLAVIGNAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Plavignan), 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  very  fat  chicken  livers,  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  a  pinch  of  finely  cut  tarragon;  have  three  gills  of  port  wine  in  a  saucepan  with 
one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  add  to  it  salt,  pepper,  coriander  seeds,  cinnamon  and  sugar,  boil  it 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  mix  in  the  pounded  livers,  stirring  them  in  well:  boil  again  for  a  few 
n*inutes  longer  and  strain  through  a  tammy;  finish  with  two  ounces  of  butter  before  serving. 

(467).  TEENCH  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  Trangaise). 

Keduce  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  with  two  gills  of  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  in  a 
saucepan,  season  with  mignonette  and  nutmeg  and  half  a  small  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped 
garlic,  as  well  as  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  the 
sauce  four  ounces  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573),  strain  through  a  tammy,  then  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  vinegar  and  chopped  parsley. 

(468).  GASCOGNE  SAUCE  AND  WITH  TOMATOES  (Sauce  Gascogne  et  aux  Tomates). 

Heat  one  gill  of  oil  in  a  saucepan  with  two  cloves  of  crushed  and  chopped  garlic;  add  to  this 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  same  quantity  of  chives,  two  ounces  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
one  ounce  of  chopped  truffles,  nutmeg,  and  mignonette,  when  all  these  ingredients  are  fried  without, 
coloring,  add  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415).  Boil,  skim  off  the  sur- 
face, reduce  and  pour  in  two  gills  of  white  wine;  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks  diluted  with  half 
a  gill  of  cream,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  the  sauce  one  ounce  of  anchovy 
butter  (No.  569). 

Gascogne  and  Tomato  Sauce. — Add  to  the  above  sauce  two  gills  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730), 
previously  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve. 

(469).  GENEVOISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Genevoise). 

Place  in  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  the  head  of  salmon,  moisten  it  with  a  bottleful  of  red  wine, 
and  a  pint  of  fish  broth  or  water;  add  four  ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  a  bunch  of  parsley  gar- 
nished with  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  shallots,  and  one  minced  onion,  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  corns,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  whole  allspice;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  and 
continue  boiling  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve;  reduce  it  with  a 
pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine;  when  the  sauce  is  well  reduced 
and  despumated,  work  into  it  just  when  ready  to  serve,  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  569). 

(470).  GflNOISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  I  la  Genoise). 

This  sauce  must  not  be  confused  with  genevoise.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  gills  of  vinegar, 
and  two  chopped  shallots,  let  reduce  till  dry,  then  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  and  two  gills 
of  chicken  essence  (No.  387)  or  else  fish  essence  (No.  388),  according  if  needed  for  fat  or  lean; 
one  ounce  of  chopped  gherkins,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  small  nonpareil  capers,  half  an  ounce  of 
Sultana  raisins  and  half  an  ounce  of  currants,  a  coffeespoonful  of  sugar,  a  dash  of  cayenne, 
mignonette,  and  nutmeg;  reduce  the  whole  to  a  proper  consistency  and  add  one  gill  of  tomato 
puree;  boil,  despumate  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  sauce.  Serve  this  sauce  with 
roasted  or  broiled  poultry. 


SAUCES.  305 

(471).  GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Groseilles  Vertes  a  Maquereau). 

Cut  off  the  stalks  and  remove  the  black  spots  from  half  a  pound  of  gooseberries;  blanch  them 
in  an  untinned  copper  vessel  for  two  minutes,  drain  and  add  them  to  a  pint  of  Hollandaise  sauce 
(No.  477)  or  instead  of  using  them  whole  they  may  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  the  pulp  mixed 
with  the  Hollandaise  sauce. 

(472).  GOURMETS  SAUCE  (Sauce  des  Gourmets). 

Cut  four  tomatoes  in  two  across,  press  out  the  seed  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  pars- 
ley, thyme,  bay  leaf,  salt,  mignonette,  and  one  small  minced  onion;  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  drain 
and  strain  through  a  sieve;  keep  the  liquid;  then  put  a  pint  of  the  pulp  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
gills  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  beat  them  well  together  with  a  wire  whisk,  and  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lobster  butter,  adding  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  wine  vinegar,  one  pinch  of  minced  tarragon  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  and  blanched  shallots  slightly  fried  in  butter. 

(473).  GREEN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Verte). 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  white  wine;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  two  well 
chopped  shallots,  also  the  quarter  of  one  bay  leaf,  two  stalks  of  chives,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  and 
four  branches  of  chervil;  reduce  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  then  add  to  it  one  pint  of  veloute" 
sauce  (No.  415),  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  some  spinach  green;  strain  through  a  tammy,  incor- 
porate a  few  pieces  of  good  butter  and  serve. 

(474).  GREEN  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Hollandaise  Verte), 

Set  into  a  saucepan  five  tablespoonf  uls  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  pepper  corns,  some  thyme 
and  bay  leaves.  Dilute  this  with  a  pint  of  water  and  boil  while  stirring  so  as  to  make  a  thick  but 
smooth  paste;  cook  it  on  a  very  slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  take  it  off,  let  it  get  slightly 
cold,  and  add  ten  egg-yolks,  afterward  the  butter  and  water,  a  very  little  at  the  time;  using  in  all 
about  two  pounds  of  fresh  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  ravigote  butter,  the  juice  of  three  lemons 
or  simply  a  spoonful  of  vinegar;  color  with  spinach  green,  and  if  too  thick,  thin  it  out  with  water, 
then  strain  through  a  tammy  and  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie  at  a  moderate  heat. 

(475).  GRIMOD  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Grimod). 

Set  in  a  bain-marie  two  raw  egg-yolks,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  mi- 
gnonette, also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  beat  the  eggs  and  butter  together  over  a  slow  fire 
using  a  small  egg-beater;  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  a  pinch  of  saffron  leaves  infused  in  half  a 
gill  of  water;  and  when  the  sauce  begins  to  get  warm,  strain  it  through  a  tammy,  and  keep  it  in  a 
moderate  temperature  until  needed  to  serve. 

(476).  HAM  SAUCE  AND  HARLEQUIN  SAUCE  (Sauce  au  Jambon  et  a  1'Arlequin). 

Ham  Sauce. — Place  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of 
lean  ham  either  scraped  or  finely  chopped,  and  then  fry  it  without  letting  it  attain  color,  and 
moisten  with  a  pint  of  cream  ;  reduce  and  add  one  pint  of  be'chamel  (No.  409) ;  boil  it  again  and 
thicken  the  sauce  with  six  raw  egg-yolks  and  half  a  pint  more  cream;  and  just  when  ready  to  serve 
throw  in  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Harlequin  Sauce. — Heat  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  half  a  pound  of  raw  ham 
cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  fry  without  coloring,  drain  off  the  butter,  take  out  the  ham 
and  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little  broth,  adding  four  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  two  of 
champagne,  and  two  of  veal  blond  (No.  423);  reduce  and  despumate;  strain  through  a  tammy, 
add  the  ham,  four  ounces  of  gherkins  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  four  ounces  of  egg- 
white  cut  the  same;  also  four  ounces  of  carrots  cut  in  same  size  squares,  blanched  and  cooked  in 
consomme  with  a  little  sugar,  four  ounces  of  cooked  truffles  cut  the  same  as  the  carrots,  and  a 
heavy  pinch  of  blanched  parsley  leaves. 

(477).  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE  AND  HOLLANDAISE  MOUSSELINE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Hollandaise  et 

Sauce  Hollandaise  Mousseline). 

Reduce  half  a  gill  of  vinegar  into  which  a  coffeespoonful  of  white  pepper  corns  has  been 
added;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  pour  in  about  half  a  gill  of  cold  water,  five  egg-yolks,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg;  set  this  saucepan  into  a  larger  one  containing  boiling 
water,  or  simply  on  a  very  slow  fire;  stir  the  contents  constantly  with  a  wire-egg  beater,  and  as 


306  THE    EPICUREAN. 

soon  as  the  sauce  becomes  consistent  add  fresh  butter  divided  into  small  pats,  until  six  ounces 
have  been  consumed;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  more  or  less,  according  to  taste,  and  if  the 
sauce  be  too  thick  add  a  little  more  water  to  it;  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  pour 
it  in  the  vessel  described  in  Fig.  171,  put  it  in  a  bain-marie  not  too  hot,  then  stir  it  again  con- 
stantly for  a  few  minutes  and  serve. 

Hollandaise  Mousseline. — Keduce  one  gill  of  vinegar,  with  a  few  grains  of  pepper;  take  it 
off  the  fire,  and  when  the  liquid  is  nearly  cold  mix  in  with  it  five  egg-yolks,  beating  them 
well  with  a  wire  whip,  then  add  five  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  set  the  saucepan 
over  a  slow  fire,  stir  the  preparation  rapidly  until  the  butter  is  melted,  then  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy  into  another  saucepan;  set  this  one  into  another  containing  boiling  water 
and  keep  it  on  the  side  of  the  range,  working  the  sauce  incessantly  until  it  is  thick  and  frothy, 
adding  little  by  little  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  one  pint  of  well-drained  whipped  cream; 
it  is  now  ready  to  be  served. 

(478).  HORSERADISH  SAUCES  WITH  BREAD-CRUMBS,  BECHAMEL  OR  CREAM  (Sauces  au 
Raifort  k  la  mie  de  Pain,  Bechamel  ou  Creme). 

The  horseradish  needed  for  making  sauces  should  be  first  scraped,  then  grated  on  a  coarse 
grater.  For  plain  horseradish,  white  sauce  (No.  562),  butter  (No.  440)  or  Hollandaise  sauces  (No. 
477)  are  used.  The  horseradish  should  never  be  cooked  in  the  sauce,  it  must  only  be  put  in,  in  order 
to  heat  it. 

Horseradish  Sauce  with  Bread-crumbs. — Soak  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  in  hot  water,  then 
squeeze.  Cook  with  broth  in  a  saucepan  for  a  few  minutes,  finishing  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  two 
spoonfuls  of  raw  cream,  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar.  At  the  last  moment  add  the  grated  horse- 
radish to  the  sauce.  This  sauce  is  also  frequently  prepared  with  plain  veloute  (No.  415),  lightly 
reduced  and  finished  with  three  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream.  This  sauce  must  be  passed  through  a 
tammy  (No.  159)  and  then  the  grated  horseradish  added. 

Horseradish  Sauce  Bechamel,  is  made  by  pouring  a  pint  of  well  seasoned  bechamel  into  a 
saucepan;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  sugar;  take  it  off  at  the  first  boil,  and  add  one  gill  of 
cream,  and  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  also  six  ounces  of  grated  horseradish;  warm  the  sauce  with- 
out boiling. 

Horseradish  and  Cream. — Reduce  a  pint  of  cream  to  one-third,  add  to  it  salt,  nutmeg,  sugar 
and  eight  ounces  of  grated  horseradish;  warm  it  up  and  thicken  with  half  a  gill  more  of  cream, 
two  egg-yolks,  and  two  ounces  of  butter. 

(479).  HUNGARIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Hongroise). 

Pour  into  a  saucepan,  the  value  of  half  a  pint  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  cooked  plain,  which 
means  drained,  but  not  thickened,  also  the  same  quantity  of  onion  puree  (No.  723),  a  gill  of  melted 
meat  glaze  (No.  401),  and  a  pinch  of  paprika;  let  it  all  boil  while  stirring  for  two  minutes,  then 
remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  incorporate  slowly  into  it,  five  ounces  of  butter,  divided 
into  small  pats,  without  ceasing  to  stir. 

(480).  HUNTER'S  SAUCE  (Sauce  au  Chasseur). 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  shallots  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  dice;  fry 
them  a  light  golden  color,  and  then  moisten  with  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  one  pint  of 
game  stock;  season,  and  boil  on  one  side  only,  to  despumate,  then  add  half  a  bottle  of  Bordeaux, 
one  ounce  of  cooked  lean  ham  cut  into  small  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  two  ounces  of 
mushrooms.  This  sauce  may  be  thickened  with  two  gills  of  liquid  game  blood  mixed  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  good  vinegar;  thicken  it  without  boiling,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  serve. 

(481).  HUNTRESS  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  Ohasseresse). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  two  ounces  of  butter  with  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions; 
fry  these  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of  chopped  fresh  mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of 
unsmoked,  salted  beef  tongue  cut  into  dice  pieces  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch.  After  the  humidity 
from  the  mushrooms  has  evaporated,  let  them  fry  together  without  coloring.  Moisten  with  a 
quart  of  game  stock  (No.  195),  and  half  a  bottle  of  champagne,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme,  and  then  continue  to  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour;  strain  the 
sauce  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  thicken  it  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  adding  one 
ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 


SAUCES.  307 

(482).  HUSSARDE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Hussarde). 

Fry  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  lean  ham  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  adding  two  ounces  of 
onions,  two  cut-up,  blanched  celery  roots,  all  cut  in  squares,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  (No. 
194a)  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine;  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  as 
much  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  pinch  of  tarragon;  let  the  whole  boil  for  half  an  hour,  and 
then  thicken  it  with  two  ounces  of  butter  kneaded  with  one  ounce  of  flour,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  mingle  in  with  it  two  ounces  of  grated  fresh 
horseradish. 

(483).  INDIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  1'Indienne). 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  onions,  two  ounces  of  lean 
unsmoked  ham,  one  ounce  of  celery  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  two  cloves 
of  garlic.  Moisten  with  two  gills  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  one  quart  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  or 
veloute  (No.  415)  (if  veloute  is  used  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks  and  half  a  gill  of  cream),  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  pepper  corns,  three  cloves,  one  pinch  of  saffron,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry. 
Reduce  all  this  and  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (Fig.  88),  and  just  when  ready  to  serve 
incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(484).  ITALIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  ITtalienne). 

Place  a  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil  and  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of 
onions,  and  four  shallots,  all  chopped  up;  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  the 
same  quantity  of  thyme,  two  cloves  and  one  clove  of  garlic,  two  ounces  of  ham  cut  in  squares,  fry 
all  these  without  letting  them  attain  color,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms; 
moisten  with  one  gill  of  white  wine  and  three  gills  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  salt,  red  pepper  and 
nutmeg  to  season,  add  a  quart  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  or  veloute  (No.  415),  skim  off  and  reduce 
the  sauce;  suppress  the  parsley,  just  when  ready  to  serve  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley.  For  Italian  sauce  with  truffles  add  two  ounces  of  chopped  truffles. 

(485).  JUVI&NY  SAUCE  (Sauce  Juvigny). 

This  sauce  is  made  by  putting  a  teaspoonful  of  chives  and  the  same  quantity  of  parsley,  both 
finely  chopped,  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  add  to  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  shallots;  fry  all  lightly  without  coloring,  then  put  in  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415), 
one  gill  of  white  wine,  some  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  let  boil  up  for  a  few  minutes;  despumate 
well,  and  just  when  serving  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  small  capers. 

(486).  LAGUiPIERRE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Laguipierre). 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  or  champagne,  add  to  it  two  ounces 
of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  and  blanched  shallots,  half  a  clove  of  garlic, 
one  bay  leaf,  six  grains  of  allspice,  eighteen  grains  of  pepper,  and  let  all  these  simmer  together 
with  two  gills  of  veal  blond  (No.  423)  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415), 
and  one  gill  of  reduced  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  thicken  the  sauce  with  four  egg-yolks  and 
one  gill  of  cream,  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  then  beat  into  it  two  ounces 
of  fresh  butter  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon. 

(487).  LITHUANIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Lithuaniemie). 

Knead  together  in  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter  with  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  fresh  bread- 
crumbs, add  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  two  spoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  some  nutmeg  and 
mignonette.  Set  this  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  the  preparation  without  letting  it  boil;  just 
when  ready  to  serve,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  dilute  it  with  stock  (No.  423);  see 
that  the  sauce  is  not  too  thick. 

(488).  LOBSTER  SAUCE,  LOBSTER  SAUCE  WITH  MADEIRA  WINE  AND  LOBSTER  SAUCE 
WITH  LOBSTER  BUTTER  (Sauce  Homard,  Sauce  Homard  au  Vin  de  Madere  et  Sauce 
au  Beurre  de  Homard). 
Lobster  Sauce.—  Place  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  in  a  saucepan  with  pepper  corns, 

thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  and  blanched  onions,  cook  all  together,  then  strain 

through  a  tammy  (No.  159);  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  in  a  piece  of  lobster  butter 

(No.  580),  and  a  dash  of  vinegar. 


308  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

Lobster  Sauce  with  Madeira  Wine. — Put  into  a  saucepan  two  gills  of  dry  Madeira  wine,  one 
chopped  shallot,  a  pinch  of  parsley  leaves,  mignonette  and  grated  nutmeg,  reduce  with  two  gills  of 
broth,  and  when  well  reduced  add  one  pint  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  and  two  ounces  of  very 
red  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  strain  through  a  tammy  and  drop  in  one  ounce  of  lobster  meat 
cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares. 

Lobster  Sauce  with  Lobster  Butter. — Ha\e  in  a  saucepan  half  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and 
half  Hollandaise  (No.  477),  a  little  water,  salt,  mignonette  and  nutmeg.  When  the  sauce  is 
very  hot  incorporate  in  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  and  some  chopped  parsley. 

(489).  LOMBARDS  SAUCE  (Sauce  Lombards). 

Have  in  a  saucepan  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  finely  chopped  and  blanched  shallots  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
chopped  mushrooms.  Let  all  simmer  till  the  liquid  is  reduced,  then  add  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No. 
409),  and  a  gill  of  cream,  also  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  pinch  of  mignonette. 

(490).  SAUCE  A  LA  LUCULLUS  (Sauce  a  la  Lucullus), 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  thick  bottomed  buttered  saucepan  with  four  onions  cut  in  slices,  four 
ounces  of  sliced  ham,  one  pound  of  sliced  veal  and  half  a  pound  of  game  fragments,  moisten  with 
one  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423).  Set  this  on  a  slow  fire  and  let  reduce  to  a  glaze,  then 
remoisten  with  two  and  a  half  quarts  more  broth,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley,  as  much  celery,  and 
two  bay  leaves,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  thyme,  four  cloves,  two  ounces  of  truffle  parings  and 
four  ounces  of  mushrooms,  let  it  boil  until  perfectly  cooked,  then  strain  through  a  tammy  and 
reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  thick  syrup,  and  add  one  quart  of  veloute"  (No.  415)  or  espagnole 
(No.  414);  for  either  one  or  the  other  have  two  spoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  then  put  in  four 
ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  balls  and  four  ounces  of  channeled  mushrooms;  mix  well  with  the  sauce 
and  serve. 

(491).  LYOUNESE  SAUCE  WITH  TARRAGON  (Sauce  Lyonnaise  a  1'Estragon). 
Cut  up  eight  ounces  of  onions  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  blanch,  then  drain  and  fry 
them  in  two  gills  of  oil  or  else  six  ounces  of  butter;  when  nearly  done,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  one  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  or  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415), 
and  one  tablespoont'ul  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401);  reduce  it,  then  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  some 
nutmeg,  and  mignonette.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  then  incorporate  into 
it  four  ounces  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonf ul  of  tarragon  leaves  finely  shredded  and  blanched. 

(492).  MADEIRA  SAUCE,  OR  SHERRY,  MARSALA,  ETC.  (Sauce  au  vin  de  Madere,  au  Xeres, 

ou  au  Marsala,  etc.). 

Keduce  well  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  adding  slowly  to  it  one  gill  of  veal  blond  (No. 
423),  or  chicken  stock  (No.  195)  and  a  few  truffle  parings;  when  the  sauce  is  well  reduced,  incor- 
porate into  it  by  degrees,  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine  or  any  other  preferred.  As  soon  as  the  sauce 
is  finished,  pass  through  a  tammy  and  keep  warm  in  a  bain-marie. 

(493).  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE,  THICKENED  (Sauce  k  la  Maitre  d'Hotel,  LieU 
Put  into  a  high  saucepan  three  gills  of  veloute'  (No.  415)  or  bechamel  (No.  409)  with  two  gills 
of  water;  let  it  warm  up  and  then  add  to  it  slowly  half  a  pound  of  butter,  working  it  in  well,  pass 
through  a  tammy;  season  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  some  salt  and  pepper,  and  should  the  sauce 
be  too  thick  then  add  a  little  more  water;  strain  again  through  a  tammy,  add  one  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley. 

(494).  SAUCE  A  LA  MANTAISE  (Sauce  k  la  MantaiseX 

Pound  four  ounces  of  chicken  fat  livers  with  two  ounces  of  beef  marrow;  fry  in  two  ounces  of 
butter,  two  ounces  of  mushrooms,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  chopped  shallots,  and 
one  crushed  clove  of  garlic;  let  this  get  cold,  and  then  pound  it  well  adding  to  it  the  pounded 
livers  and  marrow;  with  this  preparation  fill  a  mold  well  lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  and  cook 
it  in  the  oven  for  an  hour,  then  unmold  it  over  a  sieve  to  drain.  Dilute  this  mixture  with  a  pint 
of  espagnole  (No.  414)  or  veloute  (No.  415),  and  one  or  two  gills  of  chicken  essence  (No.  387); 
strain  it  through  a  tammy,  and  beat  up  the  sauce  well  before  serving. 


SAUCES.  309 

(495).  SAUCE  A  LA  MAKOEAU  (Sauce  a  la  Marceau). 

Keep  in  a  bain-marie,  three  pints  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  reduced  with  some  game  fumet 
(No.  397)  and  Madeira  wine.  Cook  in  plenty  of  salted  water,  in  a  covered  vessel,  one  dozen  peeled 
cloves  of  garlic,  until  very  tender,  then  drain  them;  wipe  them  dry  on  a  cloth,  and  fry  them  for  a 
few  minutes  in  a  pan,  with  some  melted  butter  till  the  moisture  is  thoroughly  evaporated,  then 
rub  them  through  a  sieve  and  afterward  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  add  this  puree  slowly 
into  the  sauce;  stir  well,  and  pour  it  into  a  sauceboat. 

(496).  MARINADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Marinade). 

Cut  into  thin  slices  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  carrots  and  as  many  onions;  lay  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme, 
basil,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  minced  shallots,  and  four  cloves.  Fry  the  whole  lightly  without 
coloring  in  the  butter,  and  then  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  water,  and  one  pint  of  vinegar  or  more 
according  to  strength,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  peppercorns;  let  cook  for  one  hour,  then  strain 
through  a  sieve,  return  it  to  the  fire,  and  reduce  to  half;  add  one  quart  of  espagnole  (No.  414) 
and  reduce  again  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce. 

(497).  MARINIERE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Mariniere). 

Have  two  ounces  of  onions  cut  into  small  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  fry  them  colorless  in 
two  ounces  of  butter,  then  moisten  them  with  a  gill  of  white  wine,  adding  one  tablespoonful  of 
brandy,  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped  mushrooms,  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  two  gills  of  veal 
blond  (No.  423)  or  fish  stock  (No.  195)  (if  for  lean),  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  one  clove  of  garlic,  one 
bay  leaf,  and  as  much  thyme.  Let  cook,  despumate  for  half  an  hour,  skim  well  the  surface,  and 
add  another  gill  of  white  wine,  then  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  just  when 
ready  to  serve,  throw  in  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley. 

(498).  MATELOTTE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Matelotte). 

Cut  in  slices  one  pound  of  pike,  half  a  pound  of  eels,  and  half  a  pound  of  carp;  put  these  into 
a  saucepan  with  minced  carrots  and  onions,  two  ounces  of  each,  half  a  handful  of  parsley  and  basil, 
two  small  cloves  of  garlic,  bay  leaf,  thyme,  salt  and  allspice:  pour  in  half  a  bottleful  of  Bordeaux 
wine,  and  half  a  pint  of  fish  broth  or  water;  let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain  and  add  to  the 
liquid  either  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  or  some  kneaded  butter;  reduce,  dilute  with 
a  gill  of  Bordeaux  wine,  and  finally  incorporate  into  it,  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter.  Just  when 
ready  to  serve  throw  into  the  sauce,  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  and  twenty-four  small  white 
onions  lightly  browned  in  a  pan  and  cooked  in  broth. 

A  More  Simple  Way,  is  to  fry  a  little  minced  onions  and  shallot  in  butter,  and  when  a  nice 
color  drain  off  the  butter  and  moisten  the  onions  with  two  gills  of  Burgundy  wine;  let  the  liquid 
reduce  to  half  and  then  incorporate  four  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  let  reduce 
once  more,  and  after  the  sauce  is  properly  done,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  keep  it 
warm. 

(499).  SAUCE  A  LA  MILANESE  (Sauce  a  la  Milanaise). 

Have  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  minced,  raw  ham  and  two  table 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot;  fry  them  without  coloring,  and  then  add  a  small  handful  of  parsley 
and  basil,  a  bay  leaf  and  as  much  thyme,  one  ounce  of  chopped  mushrooms,  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  a 
bit  of  mace,  two  cloves,  one  coffeespoonful  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  half  a  gill  of  dry  Ma- 
deira, and  a  pint  of  consomme  (No  189).  Boil  all  and  reduce  it  to  half,  then  add  one  pint  of 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  afterward  incor- 
porating into  it  two  ounces  of  fine  butter.  A  garnishing  should  be  added  to  this  sauce  of  pignolas, 
cooked  spaghetti  cut  in  half  inch  lengths,  cooked  ham  and  mushrooms  cut  in  half  inch  sticks  and 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  square. 

(500).  SAUCE  A  LA  MIRABEAU  'Sauce  a  la  Mirabeau). 

Pound  three  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  with  a  handful  of  chervil  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  capers, 
adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  clove  of  garlic  chopped  and  crushed;  then  rub  the  mix- 
ture through  a  sieve.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  two  gills  of  chicken 
stock  (No.  195);  let  it  boil  up;  despumate  the  surface  and  reduce  the  whole,  afterward  adding 
very  slowly  the  prepared  butter,  working  it  in  the  sauce  with  a  whisk,  season  highly  and  strain 
through  a  tammy,  heating  it  again  before  using. 


310  THE    EPICUREAN 

(501).  MODEEN  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Hollandaise  Moderne). 

Modern  Hollandaise  is  made  as  follows:  Melt  two  pounds  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  without  heat- 
ing it  too  much,  then  let  it  settle,  and  pour  off  the  top.  Beat  twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  pint  of  water.  Set  the  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  the  contents  continuously  with 
a  whisk;  and  as  soon  as  the  eggs  become  consistent  incorporate  into  them  the  butter  previously 
melted,  little  by  little,  some  salt  and  mignonette;  or  else  a  dash  of  cayenne  instead  of  the  mi- 
gnonette, and  besides  this  the  juice  of  four  lemons.  If  the  sauce  be  too  thick  add  a  little  water, 
and  then  pass  it  through  a  tammy  (No.  159).  Put  the  sauce  in  the  mixing  pot  (Fig.  171);  keep  it 
in  a  bain-marie,  not  too  hot,  until  needed. 

(502).  SAUCE  A  LA  MONTEBELLO  (Sauce  a  la  Montebello), 

Prepare  one  pint  of  thick  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433).  and  incorporate  into  it  three  gills  of  well 
reduced  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  and  dilute  it  with 
two  gills  of  champagne. 

(503).  SAUCE  A  LA  MONTIGNY  AND  TOMATO  EXTEAOT  (Sauce  a  la  Montigny  et  a  1'Extrait 

de  Tomates). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  shallots;  let 
fry  colorless  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  cook  together  for  five 
minutes,  then  moisten  with  two  gills  of  tomato  extract,  a  gill  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  three  gills 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  chopped 
parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

Tomato  Extract. — Cook  some  tomatoes  for  half  an  hour;  strain  them  through  a  coarse  sieve, 
put  them  on  a  piece  of  muslin  over  a  vessel  to  retain  all  the  falling  liquid,  and  reduce  this  liquid 
to  a  thick  syrup. 

(504).  SAUCE  A  LA  MOENAY  (Sauce  a  la  Mornay). 

After  reducing  a  good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  stir  into  it  incessantly  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
mushroom  sauce  (No.  392)  and  some  raw  cream,  also  essence  of  fish  (No.  388),  should  this  sauce 
be  needed  for  fish;  but  if  otherwise  then  use  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  chicken  stock  (No.  195) 
reduced  to  a  half-glaze.  When  the  sauce  becomes  succulent  and  creamy,  pour  it  into  a  small 
saucepan,  beat  it  smooth  while  heating  it,  and  finish  it  off  of  the  fire  with  some  butter  and  grated 
parmesan  cheese.  This  sauce  is  used  for  dishes  that  are  bread-crumbed  and  for  meats  baked  by 
a  salamander.  Its  delicacy  forbids  it  being  boiled. 

(505).  MUSHEOOM  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Champignons). 

Turn  and  wash  half  a  pound  of  small  mushroom  heads  (No.  118);  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  some  salt  and  a  gill  of  water. 
When  they  are  cooked,  after  three  minutes,  drain,  and  put  the  liquid  back  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  or  espagnole  (No.  414),  either  fat  or  lean  according  to  its  requirements, 
then  reduce  and  despumate  the  sauce.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it  two  ounces 
of  butter  and  the  cooked  mushrooms. 

(506).  MUSSEL  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Moules). 

Scrape  eighteen  mussels,  wash  them  clean  in  several  waters,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  gill  of  water,  some  vinegar  and  pepper,  but  no  salt,  sprigs  of  parsley  and  minced 
onions;  cover  the  saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  toss  it  several  times  until  they  open,  then  take 
them  from  their  shells,  cut  off  their  black  parts,  and  strain  the  broth  after  it  has  well  settled; 
pour  off  the  clear  part,  leaving  the  sediment  at  the  bottom,  and  strain  this  through  a  sieve.  Put 
one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  into  a  saucepan,  also  two  gills  of  the  mussel  broth;  reduce,  and 
thicken  with  four  raw  egg-yolks,  a  little  nutmeg,  half  a  gill  of  cream,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon;  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  finish  by  adding  a  small 
coffeespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  the  eighteen  cooked  mussels;  warm  well  and  serve. 

(507).  NEAPOLITAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Napolitaine). 

Put  two  ounces  of  cooked,  lean,  and  well  chopped  ham  into  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  as  much  thyme,  some  mignonette,  nutmeg  and  cayenne,  two  gills 
of  Madeira  wine,  and  two  gills  of  broth;  let  reduce  to  half  on  a  slow  fire,  then  suppress  the  bunch 


SAUCES.  311 

of  parsley,  and  add  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414);  boil  it  up  again,  despumate,  and  strain  it 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  put  it  back  to  reduce  once  more,  adding  to  it  two  gills  of  Malaga 
wine,  and  a  quarter  o£  a  pound  of  current  jelly,  dissolving  the  latter  slowly  by  degrees,  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish. 

(508).  NOUPAKEIL  SAUCE  (Sauce  Nonpareille). 

Reduce  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  with  two  gills  of  cream,  incorporating  in  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter;  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  set  in  one  ounce  of  truffles,  two  ounces  of 
mushrooms,  two  ounces  of  cooked  egg-whites  cut  in  squares,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  coral, 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of  small  capers,  and  three  ounces  of  red 
beef  tongue  or  ham  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  pieces. 

(509).  SAUCE  A  LA  NOKMANDE  (Sauce  k  la  Normande). 

Cut  three  pounds  of  bony  fish  into  pieces,  such  as  sheepshead,  bass,  blackfish,  redsnapper, 
etc.,  let  the  pieces  be  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  minced 
onions,  two  ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  some  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  the  same  quantity  of  thyme  and 
two  cloves  of  garlic,  moisten  with  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  three  pints  of  water,  two 
gills  of  oyster  liquor  and  let  the  whole  cook  slowly  for  thirty  minutes,  then  strain  the  sauce  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  add  to  it  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  another  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white 
wine,  and  reduce  it  all;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  sauce  with  four  egg-yolks  and 
incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  season  well  and  finish  by 
straining  once  more  through  a  tammy  (No.  159). 

(510).  OLIVE  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Olives), 

Verdal  or  Spanish  Olives,  Stuffed  or  Not  Stuffed. — Remove  the  stones  from  two  ounces  of 
olives  without  injuring  their  shape,  then  throw  them  into  boiling,  salted  water,  drain  them  after 
they  have  boiled  up  once  or  twice,  and  put  them  into  a  pint  of  reduced  and  clear  espagnole  (No. 
414).  The  empty  spaces  in  the  olives  may  be  filled  with  a  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
mixed  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569);  poach  and  drain,  and  stir  them  into  the  sauce. 

(511).  OKANGE  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  1'Orange). 

Shred  the  peel  of  an  orange  as  finely  as  possible,  throw  the  pieces  into  boiling  water,  and  let 
them  cook  for  five  minutes,  then  drain  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  gills  of  beef  juice, 
three  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  of  one  lemon,  and  a  pinch  of 
cayenne  pepper. 

(512).  SAUCE  A  LA  D'OKLEANS  (Sauce  k  la  d'0rle"ans), 

Fry  lightly  in  one  ounce  of  butter  three  chopped  shallots;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze 
(No.  401),  and  one  pint  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  incorporate  into  it  half  a  pound  of 
crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper;  strain  through  a  tammy  and  serve. 

(513).  OYSTEK  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Huitres). 

Poach  in  white  wine  one  dozen  small  oysters;  strain  the  juice  and  leave  it  to  settle.  Put  on 
the  fire  to  reduce  three  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  stir  into  it  slowly  one  gill  of  good 
fish  stock  (No.  195)  and  the  oyster  juice,  thickening  the  whole  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  and  two 
egg-yolks;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  then  strain  the  sauce,  add  a 
little  butter  to  it,  also  the  oysters  and  some  chopped  parsley. 

(514).  SAUCE  A  LA  PALERMITAINE  (Sauce  a  la  Palermitaine). 

Place  all  together  in  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  cooked,  minced  ham,  one  ounce  of  chopped  pigno- 
las,  one  clove  of  garlic,  one  gill  of  oil,  eight  tomatoes  washed,  cut  across  in  two  and  well  pressed, 
a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  as  much  bay  leaf  as  thyme,  mignonette,  nutmeg  and  two  cloves. 
Let  all  cook,  then  drain,  and  strain  forcibly  through  a  fine  sieve,  reduce  together  both  the  broth 
and  puree,  adding  to  it  two  gills  of  white  wine,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  three  gills  of  broth,  one 
quart  of  allemande  (No.  407),  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  the  pulp  of  a  lemon. 


312  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(515),  PARISIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Parisienne), 

To  make  the  essence,  cook  two  ounces  of  truffle  parings  in  three  gills  of  boiling  dry  white  wine 
with  some  parsley,  bay  leaf,  and  a  small  minced  shallot,  then  leave  it  for  half  an  hour  in  a  high 
covered  saucepan  in  a  bain-marie  before  draining  it  over  a  sieve.  Pour  this  essence  into  a  pint  of 
veloute  (No.  415);  reduce  and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  meat  or  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  stir  in  just  when  ready  to  serve  two  ounces  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

(516).  PERIGORD  SAUCE  (Sauce  Perigord). 

Peel  eight  ounces  of  medium  sized  fresh  Perigord  truffles;  cook  them  for  five  minutes  with 
salt  and  Madeira  wine,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  keep  them  in  the  covered  saucepan.  Make 
an  infusion  with  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine,  one  ounce  of  raw  ham,  the  truffle  peelings,  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley.  Put  on  the  fire  to  reduce,  four  gills  of  good  veloute  (No. 
415),  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  the  same  quantity  of  the  Madeira  wine 
infusion  already  prepared.  When  the  sauce  is  succulent  and  sufficiently  consistent,  strain  and 
pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  mixing  in  with  it  the  cooked  truffles  cut  into  thin  slices;  keep  the  sauce 
warm  in  a  bain-marie. 

(517).  PERIGrUEUX  SAUCE  (Sauce  Pe~rigueux). 

Peel  three  ounces  of  fresh  truffles;  cook  them  with  some  salt  and  Madeira  wine;  remove  them 
from  the  fire  and  keep  them  in  a  covered  vessel.  Infuse  in  two  gills  of  boiling  Madeira  wine,  one 
ounce  of  raw  ham  cut  into  dices,  the  truffle  peelings,  some  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 
Put  on  the  fire  to  reduce,  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  stir  slowly  into  it,  one  gill  of  veal  blond 
(No.  423),  and  the  same  quantity  of  Madeira  infusion.  "When  the  sauce  is  succulent  and  sufficiently 
consistent,  strain  it,  and  set  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  cooked  truffles  cut  into 
eighth  of  an  inch  squares. 

Another  way  is  to  infuse  in  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine,  one  ounce  of  truffle  peelings  with  a  little 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  leaving  them  in  for  thirty  minutes.  Pour  into  a  saucepan  a  pint  of  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  with  essence  of  ham  (No.  390),  a  little  mignonette,  and  two  gills  of  chicken  or  game 
stock  (No.  195),  then  reduce  and  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  (No.  159).  Place  in  another 
saucepan  two  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  small  one-eighth  inch  squares  with  two  gills  of  Madeira 
wine,  reduce  it  until  dry,  and  incorporate  into  the  sauce  just  when  ready  to  serve  one  ounce  of 
fresh  butter. 

(518).  PICKLE  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Cornichons). 

Slice  two  ounces  of  pickles  into  thin  pieces,  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gill  of  vinegar 
and  a  pinch  of  mignonette;  let  it  boil  up  quickly  and  reduce  it  to  half  its  quantity,  then  add  one 
pint  of  espagnole  (No  414),  two  gills  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  a  bay  leaf,  and  as  much  thyme. 
Despumate  the  sauce  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  suppress  the  bay  leaf  and  thyme,  and  serve. 

(519).  PIEDMONTESE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Pi6montaise). 

Fry  lightly  without  coloring  in  two  ounces  of  clarified  butter,  four  ounces  of  onions,  when 
done,  drain  the  butter,  and  finish  cooking  them  in  one  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423).  Skim  off  all 
the  fat,  and  then  pour  in  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  or  espagnole  (No.  414),  reduce  and  add  two 
ounces  of  white  Piemont  truffles  cut  in  squares;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  an  ounce  of  garlic 
butter  (No.  576)  mixed  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569);  then  add  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon. 

(520).  PIGNOLA  SAUCE,  ITALIAN  STYLE  (Sauce  aux  Pignons  a  lltalienne). 
Put  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  three  gills  of  good  vinegar,  three  gills  of 
veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  thyme,  some  mignonette 
and  nutmeg.  Let  the  whole  simmer  over  a  slow  fire,  and  reduce  it  to  half.  Then  add  a  pint  of 
espagnole  (No.  414)  and  two  gills  of  red  wine;  reduce  again  and  put  in  four  ounces  of  pignolas, 
let  them  boil  in  the  sauce  and  serve. 

(521).  PIMENTADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Pimentade). 

Cut  up  into  quarter  inch  squares  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  veal  and  two  ounces  of  onions, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raw,  lean  ham,  then  add  a  small  clove  of  crushed  garlic,  put  all  these  into 
a  saucepan  with  some  butter  and  let  cook  slowly.  Fry  some  sweet  Spanish  peppers  in  oil  after 


SAUCES.  313 

removing  the  skins;  also  some  green  peppers  having  both  finely  chopped,  add  these  to  the  ham,  veal 
and  onions  and  then  add  a  little  good  gravy  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  also  a  little  tomato 
puree  (No.  730).  Boil  all  together,  season  properly,  skim  off  the  fat  and  serve. 

(522).  POIVRADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Poivrade), 

For  Fat  Poivrade  a  T Espagnole. — Have  a  pint  of  poivrade  (No.  523),  half  a  pint  of 
espagnole  (No.  414),  half  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  reduce  all  till  properly  done,  season 
well. 

For  Lean  Poivrade. — Suppress  the  ham  from  the  poivrade  (No.  523),  and  replace  it  by 
sturgeon,  and  the  fat  stock  by  some  lean  stock  (No.  195). 

For  White  Poivrade  with  Veloute. — Reduce  two  gills  of  white  wine  to  half,  adding  some  white 
peppers,  aromatic  herbs  and  mushroom  parings.  Put  into  this  reduced  stock  three  gills  of  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  with  a  little  glaze  (No.  401),  and  then  stir  in  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  stock 
(No.  423);  when  the  sauce  becomes  succulent,  set  it  into  a  deep  saucepan,  and  if  not  used  at  once  in 
a  bain-marie. 

(523).  POIVEADE  FOE  SAUCES  (Poivrade  pour  Sauces). 

Not  to  be  mistaken  for  poivrade  sauce.  Put  into  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  butter  with  half 
a  pound  of  onions  and  six  shallots,  both  cut  into  one-eighth  inch  squares,  also  a  pound  of  carrots, 
half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  a  tablespoonful  of  pepper  corns  or 
else  a  teaspoonful  of  mignonette,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves,  a  clove  of 
garlic  and  four  cloves.  Fry  the  whole  slowly  without  coloring;  then  moisten  with  one  pint  of 
vinegar  and  a  pint  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  reduce  all  until  dry,  and  moisten  once  more  with  a 
pint  of  veal  blond  and  two  gills  of  white  wine,  also  three  pints  of  espagnole  (No.  414).  Boil 
slowly,  despumate  for  an  hour,  and  strain  through  a  sieve. 

(524),  POLISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Polonaise), 

Place  in  a  deep  saucepan,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  fresh  horseradish,  one  coffeespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  and  a  pint  of  veloute  (No. 
415);  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  add  the  chopped  peel  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  or  fennel,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  set  the  saucepan  in  a 
bain-marie  and  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  the  sauce. 

(525).  POMPADOUR  SAUCE  (Sauce  Pompadour). 

Fry  lightly  in  two  ounces  of  butter  two  finely  chopped  shallots,  do  not  let  them  color;  add  to 
them  four  ounces  of  minced  mushrooms;  stir  with  a  spoon  until  they  have  exhausted  all  their 
moisture;  now  pour  in  five  gills  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  let  the  whole  boil,  with  three  gills  of  veal 
blond  (No.  423),  despumating  it  well.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  six  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  gill 
of  cream,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  also  a  spoonful  of  chopped  and 
blanched  parsley. 

(526).  PORTUGUESE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Portugaise), 

Rub  on  a  loaf  of  sugar,  the  peel  of  one  lemon  and  one  orange;  scrape  the  sugar  off  with  a 
spoon  to  obtain  the  part  colored  by  the  peels,  then  put  this  in  a  saucepan  with  a  coffeespoon- 
ful of  coriander  seeds  and  two  gills  of  port  wine;  set  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  when  a  white 
foam  rises  to  the  top,  remove  it  at  once  and  cover.  Half  an  hour  later  pour  the  wine  through  a 
fine  sieve  and  add  to  it  three  gills  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and  two  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730); 
let  the  sauce  boil  up  once  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy;  add  to  it  the  juices  of  both  the  lemon 
and  orange,  besides  a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

(527).  POULETTE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Poulette), 

Pour  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  into  a  saucepan;  let  it  boil,  then  thicken  it  with  four  raw 
egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  cream;  add  at  the  last  moment  two  ounces  of  butter,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  some  chopped  parsley. 

(528;.  PRINCESS  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Princesse). 

Put  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  into  a  saucepan,  adding  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chicken 
glaze  (No.  398),  one  gill  of  cream,  and  some  grated  nutmeg;  stir  in  just  when  ready  to  serve,  four 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon. 


314  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(529).  PEOVENQAL  SAUCE,  PAT  OE  LEAN  (Sauce  a  la  Provengale  en  Gras  cm  en  Maigre). 

Fry  lightly  in  two  gills  of  oil,  half  a  pound  of  minced  onions,  two  ounces  of  ham  (or  smoked 
salmon,  if  for  lean),  a  pinch  of  parsley  leaves,  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  mignonette,  nutmeg,  a  pinch  of  ground  cloves;  dilute  with  a  pint  offish  stock  (No.  195), 
if  for  lean,  or  veal  blond  (No.  423)  it  for  fat;  let  cook,  despumate,  and  when  the  broth  is  reduced 
to  a  third,  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  if  for  brown  or  allemande  (No.  407)  if  for  white; 
one  or  the  other,  for  fat  or  lean.  Stir  in  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to 
finish. 

(530).  QUEEN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Eeine). 

Set  into  a  saucepan,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  one  pint  of  chicken 
essence  (No.  387);  pound  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  freshly  peeled  with  two  gills  of  cream,  and 
press  this  forcibly  through  a  napkin.  Pound  two  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  with  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  nutmeg,  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  then  add  this  to  the  bread- 
crumbs, seasoning  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  nutmeg,  and  also  the  cream  almond  milk,  besides  three 
gills  of  fresh  cream.  Chopped  truffles  may  also  be  added  to  this  sauce. 

(531).  EAVIGOTE  SAUCES,  AEOMATIO,  WHITE,  WITH  OIL  AND  GEEEN  PEINTANIEEE  (Sauces 
Eavigote,  Aromatique,  Blanche,  a  1'Huile  et  Printaniere  Verte). 

Aromatic  Ravigote. — Fry  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  onions,  moisten  with  two  gills 
of  Chablis  wine,  three  gills  of  consomme,  (No  189)  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  add  apiece  of  garlic  the 
size  of  a  pea,  two  chopped  shallots,  one  ounce  of  chopped,  pickled  cucumbers,  half  an  ounce  of  capers, 
some  parsley  roots  cut  in  Julienne  and  blanched,  branches  of  tarragon  leaves,  four  cloves,  two 
bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme,  and  some  nutmeg;  boil  the  whole  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain 
it  through  a  fine  sieve;  add  this  to  one  quart  of  espagnole  (No.  414).  Reduce  and  add  two  spoonfuls 
ot  mustard;  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  159)  and  incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chervil  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  leaves,  finely 
cut-up. 

White  Ravigote. — Infuse  in  one  gill  of  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  chervil,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  ot  tarragon,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pimpernel;  add  to  the  infusion  one  pint  of 
veloute  (No.  415)  and  one  gill  of  white  wine,  then  boil  together  for  ten  minutes;  strain  through  a 
tammy  (No.  159)  and  beat  into  the  sauce  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Hot  Ravigote  with  Oil. — Set  into  a  saucepan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  shallots  with 
one  gill  of  vinegar  and  three  gills  of  white  wine,  reduce  the  liquid  to  half,  then  add  to  it  a  quart  of 
veloute  (No.  415),  beat  it  up  with  a  wire  whisk  and  stir  into  it  three  gills  of  oil,  putting  in  a  very  little 
at  a  time  and  continuing  to  beat,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  pinch  of  tarragon  and 
the  same  of  chopped  chervil. 

Green  Ravigote  Printaniere. — After  picking  and  washing  half  an  ounce  each  of  chervil, 
tarragon,  chives  and  pimpernel,  blanch  them  all  in  a  copper  vessel  containing  boiling,  salted  water, 
leave  them  to  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain  and  refresh  them;  drain  once  more,  and  press  out 
all  the  water.  Pound  these  herbs  well,  and  mingle  with  them  four  ounces  of  butter,  color  with 
spinach  green  (No.  37)  then  rub  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  stir  well  this  butter  into  a  pint  of 
veloute,  (No.  415)  add  to  it  a  spoonful  of  good  vinegar  some  pepper  and  nutmeg;  pass  this  sauce 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159). 

(532).  EXIGENCE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Ee"gence). 

For  Fat. — Set  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  four  ounces  of  chopped  onions;  fry 
lightly  and  add  two  ounces  of  ham  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  eight  ounces  of  minced 
mushrooms  or  their  parings,  branches  of  parsley,  two  bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme,  two  cloves  and 
mignonette;  fry  all  these  ingredients  together  without  coloring,  moisten  with  two  quarts  of 
espagnole  (No.  414)  and  a  pint  of  chicken  stock  (No.  195),  cook  the  whole  for  forty-five  minutes, 
skim  and  pass  through  a  tammy  (No.  159).  Put  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  three  gills  of  white 
Bordeaux;  when  reduced  to  half,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  peeled  truffles;  heat  well  and  put 
this  in  with  the  above  sauce. 

For  Lean. — Use  fish  stock  (No.  195)  instead  of  fat  chicken  stock,  suppress  the  ham  and  replace 
it  by  sturgeon  or  carp. 


SAUCES.  315 

(533).  KOBEKT  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la Eobert). 

Fry  slowly  in  a  saucepan  two  white  onions  weighing  six  ounces,  and  cut  into  small  squares, 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  in  such  a  way  that  they  are  half  cooked  without  browning,  then  drain 
off  the  butter,  and  moisten  the  onions  with  two  gills  of  consomme  (No.  189),  and  one  gill  of  white 
wine;  reduce  the  sauce  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  once  more  with  three  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414),  reduced  with  one  gill  of  veal  blond  (No.  423);  add  a  coffeespoonf ul  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonf  ul  of 
vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  mustard,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne;  let  boil  for  a  few  minutes  to  enable 
the  fat  to  be  skimmed  off,  and  keep  the  sauce  warm  in  a  bain-marie. 

(534).  EOMAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Eomaine). 

Mince  two  ounces  of  celery  root  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  coffeespoonful  of  coriander 
seeds,  the  same  quantity  of  powdered  sugar,  a  small  clove  of  garlic  crushed  and  chopped,  a  bunch 
of  parsley  and  basil  garnished  with  two  bay  leaves,  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne;  let 
simmer  for  thirty  minutes,  then  add  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  one  gill  of  veal  blond 
(No.  423);  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy,  and  stir  in  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  also  two  ounces  of  Sultana  raisins  washed  and  boiled  in  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine. 

(535).  EUSSIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Eusse). 

Have  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  veloute"  (No.  415), 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives,  a  coffeespoonful  of  finely  cut  tarragon,  a  tablespoonful  of  mus- 
tard, and  one  gill  of  cream;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  sugar,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  a  heavy  pinch  of  finely  minced  fennel,  heat  the  sauce  without  boiling. 

(536).  SALMIS  SAUCE,  WITH  WHITE  WINE,  WITH  CHAMP  ACUTE,  WITH  EED  WINE  AND 
TEUFFLES  (Sauce  Salmis,  au  vin  Blanc  au  Champagne,  au  vin  Eouge  et  aux  Truffes). 

With  White  Wine. — Fry  in  butter  without  coloring  the  broken  carcasses  of  six  quails  or 
three  partridges;  add  to  this  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  and  some  broth,  a  garnished  bunch  of 
parsley  and  a  few  mushroom  parings,  then  let  boil  slowly  for  one  hour.  Make  an  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  with  this  fumet,  and  when  properly  reduced  add  to  it  the  pounded  meats  and  fragments 
previously  cut  off  from  the  carcasses;  pass  all  through  a  tammy,  and  then  pour  in  some  game 
glaze  (No.  398)  and  butter,  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

With  Champagne — Lay  in  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  game  carcasses,  such  as  pheasants  or 
grouse,  after  breaking  them  in  pieces;  to  them  add  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne,  two 
bay  leaves,  two  minced  shallots  and  one  pint  of  broth;  let  all  these  simmer  for  half  an  hour 
before  straining  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  reduce  it  to  half  with  a  pint  of  espagnole,  adding  an- 
other quarter  bottleful  of  champagne  and  reduce  it  once  more.  Season  with  salt,  black  and  red 
pepper,  also  grated  nutmeg,  and  strain  through  a  tammy,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  mix  in  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

With  Red  Wine  and  Truffles. — Break  up  the  carcasses  of  six  snipes,  or  plovers,  or  wood- 
cocks; fry  them  in  some  butter  with  their  intestines,  suppressing  the  gizzards  and  pouches,  two  bay 
leaves,  as  much  thyme  and  as  much  basil,  some  truffle  peelings,  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and 
two  gills  of  red  wine.  Boil,  skim,  and  when  prepared  to  serve  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon; 
strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  (No.  159),  and  add  to  it  one  or  two  ounces  of  peeled  and  minced 
truffles. 

(537).  SHALLOT  SAUCE  AND  SHALLOT  GEAVY  (Sauce  a  I'Echalote  et  Jus  a  I'Echalote). 

Blanch  in  boiling  salted  water  three  finely  chopped  shallots,  placing  them  in  the  corner  of  a 
napkin;  afterward  cook  them  in  a  gill  of  consomme  (No.  189);  reduce  this  latter  until  dry,  then 
add  to  it  one  gill  of  veloute  (No.  415).  Now  pound  four  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  with  six  ounces  of 
butter;  put  the  preparation  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  while  heating  till  it  becomes  very  hot,  then 
season  with  salt,  mignonette  and  lemon  juice;  if  too  thick  add  a  little  water  and  then  strain  it 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  mix  in  a  coffeespoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  stir  it  into  the  above 
prepared  sauce. 

Shallot  Gravy. — Put  eight  minced  shallots,  a  small  bay  leaf,  some  thyme  and  branches  of 
parsley  in  a  saucepan,  moisten  with  two  gills  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  let  all  cook  for  ten 
minutes  on  the  corner  of  the  range;  strain  through  a  napkin,  and  keep  the  saucs  warm  in  a 
bain-marie  until  needed. 


316  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(538).    SHAEP  SAUCE  WITH  OAPEES  AND  ONION  PUEEE  (Sauce  Piquante  aux  Capres  et 

a  la  Pure"e  d'Oignons), 

Sharp  Sauce. — Reduce  to  one-half,  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  with  some 
shallots,  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares.  Put  on  the  fire  to  reduce,  three  or  four  gills  of 
sauce  espagnole  (No.  414)  free  from  all  fat,  one  gill  of  veal  blond,  (No.  423)  and  then  the  above 
infusion,  pouring  it  in  slowly,  and  when  the  sauce  is  sufficiently  succulent  and  thick,  strain  it  into 
a  saucepan  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  bain-marie. 

Sharp  with  Capers,  and  Onion  Puree — Add  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  to  a  tablespoonful 
of  good  vinegar,  and  set  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  little  thyme,  two 
cloves,  and  two  gills  of  broth,  also  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar;  let  the  whole  boil  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  skim  off  the  fat;  strain  through  a  tammy,  and  finish  by  adding  two  spoonfuls  of  capers, 
and  two  of  onion  puree. 

(539).  CHOPPED  SAUCE  (Sauce  Hachfe). 

Add  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots  to  one  gill  of  vinegar;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
one  chopped  and  crushed  clove  of  garlic;  let  boil  slowly  until  thoroughly  reduced  then  moisten 
with  a  gill  of  broth,  and  one  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  add  two  ounces  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  tablespoonful  of  parsley,  one  of  pickles,  and  one  of  small  capers,  all  chopped 
separately,  and  just  when  serving,  incorporate  into  the  sauce  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg. 

(540),  SHEIMP  SAUCE,  SHEIMP  AND  CEEAM  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Crevettes,  Sauce  aux  Crevettes 

a  la  Creme). 

Shrimp  Sauce.—  Skin  half  a  pound  of  cooked  shrimps;  pound  their  shells  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  pass  this  through  a  sieve.  Cut  the  shrimps  into 
dice  shaped  pieces.  Boil  one  pint  of  white  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522),  thicken  it  with  two  egg-yolks, 
and  half  a  gill  of  fresh  cream,  and  finish  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  shrimp  butter  (No.  586), 
adding  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  a  coffeespoonf  ul  of  fine  herbs,  and  the  pieces  of  shrimp. 

Shrimp  and  Cream  Sauce. — Reduce  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  with  one  gill  of  mush- 
room essence  (No.  392),  and  incorporate  into  this,  two  ounces  of  shrimp  butter  (No.  586),  a  gill  of 
cream,  and  two  ounces  of  small  dice  pieces  of  shrimps;  season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  serve. 

(541).  SHEIMP  AND  CEAB  SAUCE    (Sauce  aux  Crevettes  et  aux  Crabes). 

Pour  into  a  flat  saucepan  about  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  let  it  reduce,  and  incor- 
porate into  it  six  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  and  the  same  quantity  of  raw 
cream.  "When  the  sauce  is  very  creamy,  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  whisk  into  it  gradually  with 
a  wire  whip  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  at  the  very  last  moment  two  ounces  of  shrimp 
butter  (No.  586).  Season  and  serve  it  in  a  separate  sauce-boat  with  the  shrimp  tails,  cut  up  into 
small  pieces  if  they  are  large,  but  if  small,  leave  them  whole.  Add  the  same  quantity  of  crab  meat 
cut  the  same  size. 

(542).  SICILIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Sicilieune). 

Pour  two  gills  of  Marsala  wine  into  a  saucepan,  adding  to  it  one  ounce  of  truffles  and  two 
ounces  of  mushrooms,  both  chopped  ;  also  two  shallots,  chopped,  blanched  and  lightly  fried  in  an 
ounce  of  butter;  and  also  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped 
garlic,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  the  same  of  thyme,  pepper  and  some 
grated  nutmeg.  Let  all  these  simmer  and  reduce  on  a  slow  fire,  then  remove  the  parsley,  and  add 
four  gills  of  allemande  (No.  407),  and  two  of  game  (No.  389),  or  chicken  essence  (No.  387),  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  the  same  quantity  of  orange,  besides  the  peel  of  the  latter  finely  cut  up  and  blanched, 
and  a  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 

(543).  SOUBISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Soubise), 

Cut  off  the  stalks  and  roots  from  twelve  onions  after  having  divided  them  in  two,  throw  them 
into  boiling  salted  water  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain,  refresh,  and  drain  them  again.  Heat  a  half 
a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  onions  and  fry  them  without  coloring  until  well 
done,  then  pour  in  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  half  a  pint  of  stock  (No. 422),  some  peppercorns 
and  grated  nutmeg.  When  the  onions  are  sufficiently  cooked,  press  them  forcibly  through  a 
tammy  (No.  170)  and  return  the  sauce  to  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  add  to  it  six  gills  of  fresh 
cream;  season  properly, and  incorporate  in  at  the  last  moment  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter. 


SAUCES.  317 

(544).  SOUK  SAUCE  (Sauce  Aigrelette). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  with  one  ounce  of  meat  glaze  (No. 
401),  some  white  pepper  and  nutmeg;  beat  the  sauce  well  and  stir  in  one  gill  of  lemon  juice,  the 
same  quantity  of  gooseberries  or  verjuice,  also  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  strain  through  a  tammy 
and  serve. 

(545).  SOYA  SAUCE  (Sauce  Soya), 

Reduce  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  or  espagnole  (No.  414)  with  two  gills  of  essence  of  either 
chicken,  game  or  fish,  and  when  the  sauce  is  of  a  sufficient  consistency,  add  to  it  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  soya  sauce,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  beat  in  slowly  with  a  whip. 

(546).  PEINTANIERE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Printaniere). 

Pick  and  wash  half  an  ounce  of  chervil,  half  an  ounce  of  chives,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
tarragon,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  burnet.  Throw  these  herbs  into  boiling  salted  water, 
to  blanch  for  two  minutes  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel,  drain,  refresh,  and  drain  once  more  to 
press  out  all  the  water;  pound  and  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  a  tablespoonf ul  of  good  vinegar  and 
sufficient  spinach  green  to  color  nicely;  press  this  butter  through  a  fine  sieve  and  when  prepared  to 
use  it,  add  it  to  a  pint  of  hot  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  season  to  taste  and  serve. 

I  (547).  SUPKEME  SAUCE  (Sauce  Supreme). 

Remove  the  breasts  from  five  chickens,  break  up  the  carcasses  and  second  joints.  Cut  two 
pounds  of  kernel  of  veal  into  large  squares,  and  cook  them  with  the  chicken  bones,  in  half  a  pound 
of  butter  without  allowing  them  to  color,  then  moisten  with  seven  quarts  of  veloute  stock  (No.  422) ; 
let  boil,  skim  well,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  basil  and 
bay  leaf,  and  continue  to  boil  for  two  hours,  being  careful  to  skim  off  the  top  when  necessary;  then 
strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Place  a  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire,  containing  one  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter  and  as  much  flour;  when  cooked  without  coloring,  moisten  it  with  one  and  a 
half  quarts  of  the  above  stock,  and  let  it  boil  on  one  side  of  the  stove  only,  so  as  to  be  able  to  skim 
it  properly,  now  add  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  Sauterne  wine,  cook  again,  and  despumate  for  two 
hours;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  and  reduce  with  one  pint  of  cream,  and  just  when  ready 
to  serve,  beat  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

(548).  TARRAGON  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  1'Estragon). 

Reduce  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  or  espagnole  (No.  414)  with  half  a  pint  of  chicken 
essence  (No.  387).  Infuse  a  pinch  of  tarragon  leaves  in  a  gill  of  chicken  essence,  and  add  this 
infusion  to  the  veloute  or  espagnole;  strain  all  through  a  tammy,  and  just  when  serving  throw  in 
a  tablespoonf  ul  of  tarragon  leaves  cut  in  lozenges,  and  blanched  in  boiling  water  in  an  untinned 
copper  pan. 

(549).  TOMATO  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Tomates). 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  with  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  half  a  pound 
of  onions,  half  a  pound  of  bacon  or  unsmoked  ham,  all  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  four  cloves;  when  fried  colorless,  add  eight  pounds 
of  tomatoes  cut  in  two  and  well  pressed;  season  with  salt  and  mignonette,  and  moisten  with  a 
quart  of  moistening  (No.  189),  then  cook  it  all  slowly  for  forty  minutes.  Make  a  blond  roux  (No. 
163)  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour;  dilute  it  with  one 
quart  of  white  stock  (No.  422),  and  the  tomatoes;  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
tammy  (No.  159),  let  it  boil  again,  despumate  the  surface,  and  reduce  it  until  it  becomes  the 
consistency  of  a  sauce. 

(550).  TOMATO  SAUCE  ANDALOUSE,  A  LA  OONDE,  A  LA  PARISIENNE  (Sauce  aux  Tomates 

a  1'Andalouse,  a  la  Conde",  a  la  Parisienne). 

"Wash  and  cut  in  halves,  four  pounds  of  tomatoes,  press  them  well  to  extract  all  their  juice 
and  seeds,  then  put  the  pulps  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  minced  onions,  three  bay  leaves 
and  as  much  thyme,  four  ounces  of  green  peppers  finely  shredded,  two  ounces  of  mushroom  par- 
ings, one  clove  of  garlic,  four  ounces  of  ham,  one  pinch  of  saffron  leaves,  one  small  coffeespoon- 
ful  of  mignonette  and  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414);  let  the  whole  cook  for  twenty  minutes; 
then  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  stir  into  it  at  the  last  moment  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter. 


318  THE    EPICUREAN. 

A  la  Conde. — Fry  eight  ounces  of  minced  onions  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  four  pounds  of 
very  ripe  tomatoes  cut  in  halves,  and  the  juice  and  seeds  extracted,  three  bay  leaves  and  as  much 
thyme;  also  some  cayenne  pepper.  Let  the  whole  cook  on  a  slow  fire,  then  drain  and  strain 
through  a  sieve,  return  the  sauce  to  the  saucepan,  adding  one  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  reduce 
it  to  a  proper  consistency,  and  stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  just  before 
serving. 

Parisienne. — Have  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  chopped  mushrooms  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  small  crushed  clove  of  garlic  and  two  shallots,  both  finely  minced,  two  ounces 
of  bacon  cut  in  dice,  three  bay  leaves,  the  same  quantity  of  thyme,  a  teaspoonful  of  whole 
peppers,  salt,  and  four  pounds  of  tomatoes,  cut  in  halves,  and  their  juice  and  seeds  well  extracted; 
also  one  pint  of  moistening  (No.  189).  Let  this  all  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  drain  and  strain 
through  a  sieve,  add  to  the  puree  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  one  pint  of  onion  puree 
(No.  723),  four  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Before 
serving  be  assured  that  the  sauce  is  seasoned  properly. 

(551).  TKUFFLE  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Truffes). 

Moisten  one  pound  of  chicken  parings  with  three  pints  of  veloute  stock  (No.  422)  and  a  quarter 
of  a  bottleful  of  white  wine;  add  to  it  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  as  much 
thyme,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  minced  carrots,  four  ounces  of  onions,  one  branch  of  celery  and  one 
coffeespoonful  of  whole  peppers  ;  let  it  all  simmer  for  two  hours,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and 
reduce  the  sauce  to  half,  skimming  it  well  in  the  meanwhile  ;  now  add  one  quart  of  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407),  and  reduce  again  with  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  white  wine.  Strain  the  whole 
through  a  tammy,  and  just  when  serving  incorporate  into  the  sauce  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
and  three  ounces  of  peeled  and  minced  truffles. 

(552).  TUETLE  SAUCE,  FAT  AND  LEAN  (Sauce  Tortue  Grasse  et  Maigre). 

Fat. — Pour  into  a  saucepan  three  gills  of  dry  Madeira  wine,  add  two  ounces  of  minced,  lean 
ham,  one  pinch  of  mignonette,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  the  same  quantity  of 
thyme  and  basil,  two  small  green  peppers,  one  chopped  shallot,  one  ounce  of  truffles  and  two  of 
mushrooms  chopped  separately.  Let  all  these  ingredients  simmer  and  reduce  on  a  low  fire  adding 
to  them  four  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  two  gills  of  concentrated  veal  blond  (No.  423),  two  gills 
of  tomatoes  (No.  730),  and  add  two  more  gills  of  Madeira  wine;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy 
and  beat  in  when  ready  to  serve  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

Lean. — Cut  into  slices  half  a  pound  each  of  carp,  eels  and  pike;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  one  quart  of  water,  one  clove  of  garlic,  four  ounces  of  onions  cut 
in  four,  two  ounces  of  mushroom  parings,  a  bunch  of  parsley  containing  basil,  marjoram,  thyme 
and  bay  leaf,  some  mace,  mignonette  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.  Let  simmer  and  reduce  the  stock  to 
half  on  a  very  slow  fire,  then  strain  it  forcibly  through  a  tammy,  return  it  to  the  fire  and  add  one 
pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  one  gill  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  reduce  once  more,  pour  in  a 
quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  when  ready  to  use  incor- 
porate into  the  sauce  two  ounces  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580). 

(553),  LA  VALLIERE  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  La  Valliere). 

Reduce  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415)  with  one  quart  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  the  broth 
obtained  from  cooking  eight  ounces  of  mushrooms,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401) 
and  thicken  the  sauce  with  four  egg-yolks  diluted  in  half  a  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter.  Strain  through  a  tammy  and  add  half  a  pound  of  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118). 

(554).  VALOIS  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  ValoisX 

Boil  two  gills  of  white  wine  with  one  gill  of  vinegar  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
shallots,  let  the  liquid  reduce  thoroughly,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  let  partly  cool  and  stir  in 
six  egg-yolks,  beat  them  up  with  an  egg-beater  and  finish  the  sauce  with  four  ounces  of  fine  fresh 
butter  slowly  incorporated;  strain  and  after  returning  it  to  the  saucepan  stir  into  it  two  ounces 
more  of  butter  and  mix  in  one  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  or  replace  half  the  parsley  by  chopped 
tarragon  leaves  if  preferred. 


SAUCES.  319 

(555).  VENETIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Vfoitienne). 

Have  ready  in  a  steamer  or  bain-marie  saucepan  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  just 
when  about  serving  add  to  it  one  gill  of  chicken  (No.  398)  or  fish  glaze  (No.  399),  some  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  good  vinegar;  thicken  the  sauce  with  egg-yolks  and  cream, 
then  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  coffeespoonf ul  of  fresh  parsley,  also  a  pinch  of  finely 
shredded  tarragon  leaves. 

(556).  VENISON  SAUCE  (Sauce  Venaison), 

Dilute  in  a  saucepan  five  gills  of  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522),  and  four  ounces  of  currant  jelly 
with  half  a  bottleful  of  Burgundy  wine,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  the  same 
quantity  of  sugar,  also  the  pulp  of  a  lemon;  reduce  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain  through 
a  tammy. 

(557).  VIOTOKIA  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Victoria). 

Cover  a  saucepan  containing  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  shallots  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons;  let  boil  together,  then  add  two  ounces  of  well  chopped  mushrooms  and  boil  again  until 
these  have  evaporated  all  their  moisture,  then  put  in  two  gills  of  melted  meat  glaze.  When 
ready  to  serve  finish  the  sauce  by  mixing  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar,  the  same  of  soya  sauce  (No.  545),  a  pinch  of  tarragon  leaves  and  one  of  parsley,  besides 
two  tablespoonsf  uls  of  chopped  up  pickles. 

(558).  VIENNESE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Viennoise). 

This  sauce  is  prepared  with  one  pint  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  seasoned  with  nutmeg,  red 
pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  finish  it  with  four  ounces  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573),  and 
just  before  serving,  throw  in  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

(559).  VILLAES  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Villars). 

Into  a  pint  of  chicken  essence  (No.  387)  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rice  flour  diluted  in  a  gill 
of  cold  milk,  also  some  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  two  ounces  of  cooked  chicken  cut  in  small 
squares  and  four  chopped  hard-boiled  egg-yolks;  work  the  sauce  steadily,  reduce  properly,  and 
add  one  gill  of  double  cream,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(560).  VILLEEOI  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Villeroi), 

Put  into  a  sautoire  with  some  butter  two  ounces  of  lean  ham;  fry  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain 
off  the  butter  and  moisten  the  ham  with  one  gill  of  white  wine;  reduce  it  until  dry,  then  pour  in  a 
pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  season  the  sauce  with  mignonette  and  nutmeg;  reduce  again  and 
then  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  gill  of  cream;  let  the  sauce  boil  up  once  or  twice 
while  stirring  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  sautoire  with  a  reducing  spatula,  then  strain  it  through  a 
tammy  (No.  159),  and  mix  in  with  it  some  chopped  and  drained  mushrooms,  also  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  or  fine  herbs.  This  sauce  should  be  more  consistent  than  allemande  sauce  and 
it  is  used  only  when  beginning  to  cool,  to  coat  cold  meats.  It  can  also  be  soubised  by  adding 
to  it  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  soubise  sauce  (No.  543). 

(561).  WESTPHALIAN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Westphalienne). 

Put  three  gills  of  white  wine  and  half  a  pound  of  minced,  lean  Westphalia  ham  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  one  bay  leaf  and  the  same  quantity  of  thyme,  some 
mignonette,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Moisten  the  whole  with  two  gills  of  veal  blond  stock  (No.  423), 
then  reduce  and  finish  with  four  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  reduce  again  to  the  proper  con- 
sistency, then  strain  through  a  tammy,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  stir  in  two  ounces  of  butter 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  pass  throngh  a  tammy  and  serve. 

(562).  WHITE  SAUCE ;  WHITE  ENGLISH  SAUCE  AND  WHITE  SAUCE  WITHOUT  BUTTEE 

(Sauce  Blanche,  Anglaise  et  Sauce  Blanche  sans  Beurre). 

Melt  some  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  beat  it  with  the  same  weight  of  flour;  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  moisten  with  water.  Set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  constantly  until  it  begins 
to  bubble,  then  thicken  it  just  before  serving  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter,  adding  the 
juice  of  a  lemon;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  serve. 


320  THE    EPICUREAN. 

White  Sauce,  English  Style. — Infuse  in  a  pint  of  boiling  cream,  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  a  cof- 
feespoonful  of  white  pepper  corns,  some  thyme  and  a  bay  leaf,  leaving  them  in  for  half  an  hour. 
Melt  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  in  it  two  ounces  of  flour,  fried  without  coloring,  add  the  pre- 
pared infusion,  straining  it  first  through  a  fine  sieve,  also  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Set  the  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  and  stir  well  till  it  boils,  then  leave  it  for  a  few  minutes  and  incorporate  into  it 
three  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

White  Sauce,  Without  Butter. — Break  into  a  saucepan  four  raw  egg-yolks,  add  to  them  one 
gill  of  olive  oil,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Heat  some  water  in  a  saucepan  larger  than  the  one  con- 
taining the  eggs  and  oil,  set  the  smaller  into  the  larger  one,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  is  sufficiently 
hot  that  the  hand  cannot  bear  the  heat  then  begin  to  stir  it  so  as  to  mix  the  eggs  with  the  oil;  as 
quickly  as  the  sauce  is  well  thickened,  take  it  from  the  saucepan  and  serve  it  at  once,  adding  the 
juice  of  a  lemon.  This  sauce  should  only  be  tepid,  for  if  a  degree  warmer  the  egg-yolks  coagu- 
late and  the  oil  separates  from  them.  This  sauce  is  excellent  for  artichokes  and  plain  boiled  aspar- 
agus. 

(563).  YOKE  SAUCE  (Sauce  d'York). 

Made  by  reducing  some  vinegar  with  shallots,  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  adding 
to  it  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  white  bread-crumbs  lightly  fried  in  butter  and  some  good  gravy. 
Let  the  sauce  cook  for  ten  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  range,  season  to  taste,  and  finish  with  some 
chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(564).  ZTTOHETTE  SAUOE  (Sauce  a  la  Zuchette). 

Reduce  some  brown  espagnole  sauce  with  the  liquid  part  of  drained  tomatoes,  add  some  dry 
mushrooms  that  have  been  previously  soaked,  moisten  from  time  to  time  with  a  little  veal  blond 
stock  (No.  423).  Pare  some  cucumbers  in  either  clove  of  garlic  or  olive  shape,  blanch  and  cook 
these  in  white  broth  having  just  sufficient  to  moisten,  so  that  when  the  cucumbers  are  done  the 
stock  will  be  thoroughly  reduced.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  put  in  the  cucumbers 
and  serve. 


HOT  BUTTERS, 


(565),  BLACK  BUTTEK  (Beurre  NoirX 

This  butter  is  used  for  eggs,  brains  or  fish.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelet  pan  over 
a  slow  fire,  and  when  it  falls  after  raising,  skim  it  off,  and  set  it  •  gain  on  the  fire;  as  soon  as 
it  is  black,  but  not  burned,  season  it  with  salt  and  mignonette.  Strain  it  through  a  fine  strainer 
over  the  eggs,  etc.  Throw  a  dash  of  vinegar  in  a  hot  pan,  and  pour  it  over  the  eggs  through  a 
fine  strainer. 

(566).  MELTED  BUTTER  (Beurre  Pondu). 

Set  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette,  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon;  let  it  melt  sufficiently  to  liquify  it,  or  else  melt  it  thoroughly,  and  let  it  settle,  pouring 
off  the  top  carefully,  refraining  from  disturbing  the  sediment  at  the  bottom. 

(567).  HAZEL-NUT  BUTTER  (Beurre  Noisette). 

Place  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  pan  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  froth  falls,  skim  it  care- 
fully, and  leave  it  on  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  brown  slightly,  then  let  it  settle  and  pour  off  the 
clear  part;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon-juice,  and  throw  this  over  fish  or  any  other  article, 
after  straining  it  through  a  fine  strainer. 


SAUCES.  321 

COLD  BUTTEKS, 


(568).  ALMOND  BUTTER  (Beurre  d'Amandes). 

Pound  in  a  mortar,  one  ounce  of  peeled  sweet  almonds  mixed  with  a  few  bitter  ones;  add  four 
ounces  of  sugar,  and  moisten  with  a  little  milk,  then  stir  in  eight  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  beat 
it  all  well  together,  then  press  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve. 

(569).  ANCHOVY  BUTTER  (Beurre  d'Anchois). 

Wash  an  ounce  of  anchovies,  wipe  them  well  to  remove  the  silver  scales  covering  them,  then 
pound  them  thoroughly,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Rub 
through  a  sieve  and  use  when  needed. 

(570).  CAMBRIDGE  BUTTER  (Beurre  Cambridge.) 

Lay  in  a  mortar  and  pound  well,  six  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  with  four  well  cleansed  anchovies 
and  a  spoonful  of  chopped  capers,  also  some  tarragon  and  chives;  when  the  whole  is  reduced  to  a 
paste,  add  to  it  one  spoonful  of  English  mustard,  and  the  same  quantity  of  French  mustard,  some 
salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  butter.  Rub  the  compound  through  a  sieve,  and 
then  mix  in  with  it  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

(571).    CAYENNE,  CHILI,   PAPRIKA  AND  SWEET  SPANISH  PEPPER  BUTTER    (Beurre  de 

Cayenne,  Chili,  Paprika,  Piments  doux   d'Espagne). 

Mix  into  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  either  a  full  teaspoonf ul  of  cayenne  pepper  or  Chili 
pepper,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  Hungary  paprika  pepper;  add  to  it  some  salt,  lemon  juica 
and  sweet  Spanish  pimentos. 

(572).  CRAB  BUTTER  (Beurre  de  Crabes). 

Wash  well  some  crab  coral,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  adding  double  its  quantity  of  butter,  a 
dash  of  cayenne  pepper  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  press  it  through  a  sieve. 

(573).  CRAWFISH  BUTTER  (Beurre  d'Ecrevisses). 

Have  one  pound  of  very  red  crawfish  shells,  pound  them  with  two  pounds  of  butter  and  when 
they  are  reduced  to  a  paste,  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  cook  slowly  until  the  butter  be  thor- 
oughly clarified;  strain  it  through  a  piece  of  muslin  into  a  bowl,  and  as  soon  as  the  greatest  heat  has 
passed  off,  beat  it  up  with  a  spoon  till  it  becomes  cold.  If  needed  to  be  colored  a  deeper  red,  add 
a  little  orchanet  melted  in  a  little  butter,  or  else  some  vegetal  carmine. 

(574).  PINE  HERB  BUTTER,  COOKED  (Beurre  aux  Fines  Herbes  Ouites). 
Fry  in  some  butter  a  few  blanched  and  finely  chopped  shallots,  add  to  them  a  few  well  chopped 
truffles  and  fresh  mushrooms,  and  let  the  whole  get  quite  cold,  then  add  to  it  some  fresh  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(575).  RAW  FINE  HERB  BUTTER,  (Beurre  aux  Fines  Herbes  Crues). 

Wash  some  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  pimpernel,  chives  and  water-cress  leaves,  and  then  cut 
them  up  finely.  Wipe  off  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  in  a  cloth,  and  beat  it  up  in  a  warm  basin  until 
it  becomes  slightly  creamy,  then  mix  in  with  it  gradually  the  raw  fine  herbs;  season  this  butter 
with  cayenne,  salt  and  lemon  juice. 

(576).  GARLIC  BUTTER  (Beurre  d'Ail). 

Blanch  one  ounce  of  garlic  in  plenty  of  water,  drain  and  pound  it  well,  adding  half  a  pound 
of  butter  and  seasoning  with  salt  and  red  pepper. 

(577).  BUTTER  WITH  GREEN  GOOSEBERRIES  (Beurre  aux  Groseilles  &  Maquereau). 
Have  a  pound  of  well  picked  green  gooseberries;  pound  them  well  and  then  add  to  them  one 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  pound  again  together  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  fine  herbs. 


322  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(578).  HOESEEADISH  BUTTEE  (Beurre  de  Eaifort). 

Pound  four  ounces  of  scraped  horseradish  with  eight  ounces  of  butter,  some  salt  and  red 
pepper;  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  If  this  butter  be  needed  to  add  to  a  sauce,  only  put  it  in  at 
the  last  moment.  Horseradish  should  not  be  allowed  to  boil;  neither  should  it  be  prepared  too 
long  in  advance. 

(579).  KNEADED  BUTTEE  (Beurre  Mania 

Kneaded  butter  is  frequently  used  at  the  last  moment  to  thicken  sauces  and  cooked  small 
vegetables.  In  order  to  prepare  this  auxiliary,  it  is  necessary  to  lay  a  piece  of  butter  on  a  plate  or 
in  a  small  vessel,  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour 
to  form  a  smooth  paste,  but  not  too  consistent,  so  that  it  can  easily  be  dissolved  by  the  heat. 

(580).  LOBSTEE  AND  SPINY  LOBSTEE  OOEAL  BUTTEE  (Beurre  au  Corail  de  Homard  ou  de 

Langouste), 

Lobster  Butter. — Pound  one  pound  of  very  red  spiny  lobster  shells  with  two  pounds  of  butter 
until  they  are  reduced  to  a  paste;  put  this  into  a  saucepan  till  the  butter  be  cooked  and  clarified, 
then  strain  it  through  a  piece  of  muslin  into  a  bowl.  As  soon  as  the  butter  has  thrown  off  its 
first  heat,  begin  beating  it  with  a  spoon  till  it  gets  cold,  and  if  needed  to  be  dyed  a  deeper  red 
shade,  then  add  to  it  a  little  orchanet,  melted  in  a  small  quantity  of  butter,  or  clear  vegetal  carmine. 

Coral  Butter. — Take  some  lobster  eggs,  also  the  red  parts  found  in  the  interior  of  the 
body  and  crush  them  very  finely  in  a  mortar;  mix  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  four  times  the  volume 
of  the  eggs;  pass  the  whole  through  a  Venice  sieve  and  serve. 

(581).  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  BUTTEE  (Beurre  Maitre  d'Hotel). 
Mix  in  with  some  fresh  butter,  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice. 

(582).  MONTPELLIEE  BUTTEE  (Beurre  Montpellier). 

Pick,  wash,  and  blanch  one  pound  of  chervil,  chives,  tarragon,  pimpernel,  and  water-cress; 
drain  and  refresh  them,  then  press  them  well  to  extract  all  the  water,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  six  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  six  well  washed  anchovies,  five  ounces  of  pickled  gherkins,  five 
ounces  of  dry  capers,  and  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  piece  of  garlic  the  size  of  a  pea;  pound  all 
together  and  rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  when  it  has  all  passed,  put  two  pounds  of 
butter  into  the  mortar,  add  the  strained  ravigote,  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  oil,  and  one  of  tarragon  vine- 
gar; and  mix  it  all  thoroughly  together.  Montpellier  butter  should  be  a  pretty,  light  green  color. 

(583).  EAVIGOTE  OE  GEEEN  BUTTEE  (Beurre  a  la  Eavigote  ou  Beurre  Vert), 
Made  with  one  ounce  of  tarragon,  two  ounces  of  chervil,  one  ounce  of  chives,  well  washed,  half 
an  ounce  of  blanched  parsley  leaves,  and  one  ounce  of  chopped  and  blanched  shallot;  pound  all 
these  herbs  with  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  color  it  with  some  spinach  green  strained  through  a 
sieve. 

(584).  SAFFEON  BUTTEE  (Beurre  de  Safran), 

Lay  a  pinch  of  saffron  on  a  plate  and  work  it  in  a  nut  of  butter  with  a  spatula;  it  is  then  ready 
to  use. 

(585).  SHALLOT  BUTTEE  (Beurre  d'Echalotes). 

Peel  and  mince  finely  twelve  shallots,  then  pound  them,  afterward  adding  half  a  pound  of 
butter;  rub  the  compound  through  a  sieve. 

(586).  SHEIMP  BUTTEE  (Beurre  de  Orevettes). 

Pound  one  pound  of  shrimps  without  removing  their  skins,  also  two  ounces  of  lobster  coral; 
add  to  this  one  pound  of  fresh  butter,  some  salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  then 
press  the  whole  through  a  sieve. 


SAUCES.  323 

COLD  SAUCES, 


(587).  APPLE  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Pommes). 

Apple  Sauce.— Peal  a  pound  of  sound  apples,  suppress  the  cores  and  seeds  and  place  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  little  water;  when  cooked  drain  and  press  through  a  sieve;  reduce  and  add  a  lit- 
tle brown  sugar  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  their  finely  shredded  peels  that  have  been  previ- 
ously cooked  in  salted  water. 

(588).  OHANTILLY  APPLE  SAUCE  WITH  HORSERADISH  A  LA  SANFOKD  (Sauce  Chantilly 

aux  Pommes  et  au  Eaifort  a  la  Sanford). 

Core  a  pound  of  sour  apples,  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water;  when  done  drain 
out  and  press  through  a  very  fine  sieve.  Add  to  the  pulp  one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar  and  two 
ounces  of- grated  horseradish;  stir  well  and  beat  in  lightly  the  value  of  one  pint  of  well-drained 
whipped  cream.  Serve  this  sauce  separately  with  young  ducks  or  goslings. 

(589).  APPLE  SAUCE,  ENGLISH  STYLE,  (Sauce  aux  Pommes  a  1'Anglaise). 

Cut  up  one  pound  of  peeled  apples,  small,  cook  them  with  a  little  water  and  a  grain  of  salt; 
when  dry  mix  in  four  spoonfuls  of  grated  fresh  horseradish;  remove  from  the  fire  at  once,  and 
press  through  a  sieve;  mix  into  the  pulp  a  spoonful  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges.  Heat 
up  without  boiling,  and  remove  as  soon  as  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  This  sauce  can  be  served  with 
all  salted  and  smoked  meats. 

(590).  APPLE  SAUCE  POE  GOURMETS,  APPLE  SAUCE  WITH  HORSERADISH  AND  ORANGE 
JUICE  (Sauce  aux  Pommes  des  Gourmets,  Sauce  aux  Pommes  au  Raifort  et  jus  d'Orange). 

Gourmets. — Take  one  pound  of  peeled  apples,  remove  the  seeds  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  little  water,  when  cooked,  drain  and  strain  through  a  sieve,  reduce  and  add  a  little  brown 
sugar,  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  their  peels  finely  cut  up  and  boiled  in  salted  water. 

With  Horseradish  and  Orange  Juice. — The  same  preparation  as  for  apple  sauce  (No.  587), 
adding  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  six  tablespoonf uls  of  grated  fresh  horseradish. 


(591).  SWEDISH  APPLE  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Pommes  Suedoise). 

Cut  five  or  six  apples  into  four  quarters,  peel  and  cook  them  in  a  little  white  wine,  reduce  all 
of  their  moisture,  then  press  them  through  a  sieve.  Place  this  puree  in  a  bowl  and  mix  in  with  it 
about  an  equal  quantity  of  finely  chopped  horseradish,  thicken  this  preparation  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  This  sauce  is  excellent  for  roast  geese  or  roast  pork,  as  well  as  for 
cold  meats. 

(592).  BOAR  SAUCE  (Sauce  Sanglier). 

Grate  half  a  pound  of  fresh  horseradish,  then  lay  it  in  a  bowl  with  four  ounces  of  cranberry 
jelly  (No.  598),  adding  a  spoonful  of  mustard,  the  well  chopped  peel  of  one  lemon  and  one 
orange,  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  tablespoonf ul  of  sweet  oil,  mix  all  the  ingredients 
well  together  and  serve. 

(593).  CHAUDPROID,  BECHAMEL  CREAM  SAUCE,  WITH  TOMATO  PUREE  AND  WITH 
PEOULA  (Sauces  Ohaudfroid,  Bechamel  a  la  Creme,  Bechamel  k  la  Pure"e  de  Tomates  et  k 
la  Fe"cule). 

Bechamel  Cream  Chaudfroid. — Is  made  with  bechamel  reduced  with  fowl  or  fish  essence  well 
despumated,  and  half  its  quantity  of  white  chicken  or  fish  jelly  added. 

Bechamel  Tomato  Puree  Chaudfroid.— Is  a  chaudfroid  prepared  the  same  as  for  the  cream, 
adding  to  it  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  red  tomato  puree  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve. 


324  THE    EPICUREAN. 

With  Fecula. — Boil  a  quart  and  a  half  of  chicken  broth  with  six  gelatine  leaves  and  when  well 
dissolved  thicken  with  four  ounces  of  fecula  previously  diluted  in  cold  water.  Mix  with  this  chaud- 
froid  half  a  pint  of  cream,  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  stir  up  well  and  dip  into  this 
chaudfroid  once  or  several  times  the  whole  pieces  of  meat  required  to  be  glazed. 

(594).  OHAUDPROID  BROWN  AND  GAME  (Ohaudfroid  Brun  et  Chaudfroid  de  Gibier). 

Put  into  a  saucepan,  one  pint  of  very  clear  well-colored  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduce  it 
with  some  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  dilute  with  half  its  quantity  of  aspic  jelly  (No.  103).  Boil 
up  the  sauce  and  remove  it  at  once  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  in  order  to  despumate  it  for  ten  minutes, 
skimming  it  well  in  the  meantime;  then  take  it  off  entirely  and  pass  through  a  tammy.  Before 
using  try  a  little  to  find  out  whether  it  coats  properly;  if  not  strong  enough  add  some  gelatine. 

Game  Chaudfroid. — Add  one  pint  of  game  essence  (No.  389)  to  half  a  pint  of  sauterne  wine, 
moisten  with  game  stock  (No.  195),  and  add  one  quart  of  well-reduced  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
despumate  and  stir  in  one  pint  of  jelly.  The  white  wine  may  be  replaced  by  Madeira. 

(595).  GHAUDFROID  GREEN  OR  RAVIGOTE  (Ohaudfroid  Vert  ou  Ohaudfroid  Ravigote). 
Blanch  in  boiling  and  salted  water,  one  handful  of  chervil,  parsley,  tarragon  and  pimpernel; 
drain  and  pound  these  with  a  few  capers;  press  through  a  sieve  and  mix  this  puree  with  a  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  then  reduce  and  despumate,  adding  some  chicken  stock  (No.  195);  reduce  once 
more,  and  now  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  some  spinach  green,  also  half  its  quantity  of 
either  meat,  chicken,  or  game  jelly. 

(596).    OHAUDPROID  WHITE  WITH  VELOUTE  AND  BLOND  OHAUDPROID  (Ohaudfroid  Blanc 

au  VeloutS  et  Ohaudfroid  Blond). 

Pour  into  a  saucepan,  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415)  (for  lean,  use  fish  veloute");  reduce  it  with 
half  a  pint  of  chicken  broth  (No.  188),  or  veal  stock  (No.  423),  then  add  one  pint  of  aspic  jelly 
(No.  103);  boil  up  this  sauce,  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  to  be  able  to  despumate  for  fifteen 
minutes,  skimming  it  carefully  in  the  meanwhile,  then  take  it  off  the  fire,  strain,  and  try  a  little 
before  using,  to  see  whether  it  is  sufficiently  thick  to  cover  the  meats.  For  blond  chaudfroid,  add 
chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  to  white  veloute  (No.  415). 

Thickened  with  Egg-yolks  a  V Allemande. — Veloute  (No.  415)  reduced  with  essence  of  chicken 
(No.  387)  well  despumated,  and  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  mixed  with  half  as  much  melted  white 
jelly. 

Blond  Chaudfroid. — Is  made  with  half  brown  and  half  white  chaudfroid. 

(597).  OHIOKEN  AND  GAME  SAUCE  (Sauce  pour  Volaille  et  Gibier). 

This  sauce  is  prepared  with  some  sweet  oil,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  chicken  or  game  gravy, 
chopped  fine  herbs,  garlic,  shallots,  salt  and  pepper. 

(598).  CRANBERRY  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Caneberges). 

Wash  five  pounds  of  cranberries,  lay  them  in  an  untinned  saucepan  on  the  fire,  with  one  quart 
of  water,  let  cook  slowly  while  stirring  frequently,  and  when  they  are  done  add  to  them  five  pounds 
of  sugar;  pass  them  through  a  coarse  colander,  put  in  jars  and  set  the  jelly  away  in  a  cool  closet. 

(599).  CUMBERLAND  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  Cumberland). 

Cook  in  salted  water  the  finely  shreded  peels  of  two  oranges  and  two  lemons,  and  when  they  are 
tender  put  them  into  a  vessel  with  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard,  a  pinch  of  ground  ginger,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne  pepper,  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  the  juice  of  one  orange  and  one  lemon,  some  salt,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  mix  in  with  these  ingredients  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly. 

(600).  CURRANT  OR  GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE  WITH  SUGAR  (Sauce   aux  Groseilles  Blanches  ou 

Vertes  au  Sucre). 

Pick  one  pound  of  white  currants  from  their  stalks,  or  pick  off  the  stems  from  one  pound  of 
gooseberries;  blanch  either  one  or  the  other,  and  then  drain  them  on  a  sieve.  Have  cooked  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  the  small  crack,  lay  in  the  currants,  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  then  pour  it  into 
glasses  to  serve  cold  with  meats,  game  or  poultry. 


SAUCES.  325 

(601).  CURRANT  SAUCE  WITH  ORANGE  (Sauce  aux  Groseilles  a  1'Orange). 

This  is  prepared  with  currant  jelly  diluted  with  port  wine;  add  to  it  the  rind  of  one  orange 
grated  on  sugar  and  pressed  through  a  sieve.  Peel  another  orange  and  after  shredding  the  peel 
very  finely  cook  it  in  water,  drain  and  then  add  it  to  the  sauce,  with  the  juice  of  the  two  oranges. 

(602),  TINE  HERBS  SAUCE  AND  SHALLOTS  WITH  OIL  (Sauce  aux  Pines  Herbes,  et  aux 

Echalotes  a  1'Huile). 

This  sauce  is  prepared  with  chervil,  parsley,  chives,  and  small  squares  of  blanched  shallots, 
also  some  tarragon  leaves.  Dilute  a  little  mustard  in  oil  and  vinegar,  season  well,  and  stir  in  the 
above  chopped  fine  herbs.  Shallots  with  fine  herbs  and  oil  is  made  by  mixing  in  with  fine  herbs, 
and  oil  is  made  by  mixing  in  with  one  gill  of  vinegar,  some  salt,  pepper,  and  two  gills  of  sweet  oil, 
chopped  and  blanched  shallots,  chopped  tarragon  and  English  mustard. 

(603).  GREEN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Verte), 

"Wash  some  parsley  leaves,  chervil,  tarragon,  and  burnet;  plunge  them  into  boiling  water 
in  a  copper  vessel,  and  blanch  them  for  three  minutes;  drain,  press  out  all  the  liquid,  and  then 
pound  the  herbs  in  a  small  mortar  with  a  few  chives  added;  press  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
put  into  the  same  mortar  a  few  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  and  some  anchovy  fillets;  pound  them  also, 
and  stir  in  gradually  the  green  puree;  dilute  the  preparation  with  some  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard, 
and  finish  the  sauce  with  a  spoonful  of  finely  chopped  pickled  gherkins. 

(604).  GREEN  SPANISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  Espagnole  Verte). 

Pound  to  a  paste  one  ounce  of  chervil  and  one  ounce  of  parsley;  add  to  it  four  ounces  of 
bread-crumbs  soaked  in  water  and  then  squeezed  out,  six  anchovy  fillets,  two  ounces  of  chopped 
pickled  gherkins,  two  ounces  of  capers,  and  one  small  chopped  up  onion;  pound  well  the  whole 
and  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  bowL,  beat  it  well  with  some  sweet  oil,  the  same  as  for  a 
mayonnaise,  adding  salt,  pepper,  and  spinach  green  to  color;  soften  the  sauce  with  a  little  water. 

(605).  HORSERADISH  AND  CREAM  SAUCE,  AND  WITH  OIL  (Sauce  Raifort  a  la  Oreme,  et  a 

1'Huile). 

Put  into  a  bowl  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  horseradish  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh 
bread-crumbs,  a  little  sugar,  some  salt,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  a 
little  white  stock  (No.  422),  also  adding  a  pint  of  cream.  This  sauce  is  used  with  cold  meats. 

With  Oil. — Cut  some  slices  of  lemon  after  suppressing  the  yellow  and  white  rind;  put  them 
into  a  vessel  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  some  chopped  parsley,  tarragon,  grated  horseradish 
and  a  little  ground  pepper;  mix  all  well  together.  Broiled  fish  may  be  served  with  this  sauce. 

(606).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Mayonnaise). 

In  order  to  obtain  a  quick  and  certain  mayonnaise  sauce,  it  must  be  worked  simply  with  k 
small  wire  whisk.  Put  five  egg-yolks  into  a  bowl  suppressing  every  particle  of  the  white, 
add  some  salt,  white  or  red  pepper,  and  ground  mustard;  after  these  are  thoroughly  mixed  pour 
in  slowly  a  quart  of  sweet  oil  and  one  gill  of  vinegar,  alternating  them  without  once  stopping  to 
work  vigorously.  In  a  few  minutes  the  sauce  becomes  voluminous,  consistent,  smooth  and  firm. 

(607).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  A  LA  BAYONNAISE  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  a  la  Bayonnaise). 

Lay  five  egg-yolks  in  a  bowl  with  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  water,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  a  little 
pepper  and  a  little  cayenne,  then  beat  it  up  and  incorporate  slowly  into  it  two  and  one-half  pints 
of  oil  and  one  gill  of  vinegar,  stirring  it  unceasingly,  and  when  the  sauce  thickens  add  to  it  more 
vinegar,  and  continue  pouring  in  the  oil  and  vinegar  till  they  are  both  consumed.  It  must  be  of 
a  high  consistency,  of  a  white  color,  and  of  a  good  flavor;  it  is  preferable  to  use  a  wire  whisk 
in  place  of  a  wooden  spoon  for  this  purpose.  Add  to  this  mayonnaise  half  a  pound  of  lean  Bay- 
onne  ham,  cut  in  squares,  some  powdered  Spanish  peppers,  and  some  chopped  parsley. 


326  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(608).  MAYONNAISE  OAKDINAL  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  Cardinal). 

Pound  one  ounce  of  lobster  coral  with  a  little  vegetal  carmine,  a  teaspoonful  of  English 
mustard,  some  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  pass  all  this  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  mix  in  with  it  slowly  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606);  this  sauce  should  be  a 
nice  light  red  color. 

(609).  MAYONNAISE  FIGARO  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  Figaro). 

Strain  some  cooked  tomatoes  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  then  let  them  drain  well  for  several 
hours  in  a  napkin,  and  mix  this  pulp  in  slowly  with  very  firm  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606);  add 
to  it  some  powdered  cayenne,  very  finely  chopped,  and  blanched  shallots  and  anchovy  essence. 

(610).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  PROVENQAL  WITH  SWEET  PEPPERS  (Sauce   Mayonnaise   Pro- 

vengale  aux  Poivrons  doux). 

Mash  four  medium  sized  cloves  of  garlic  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  English  mustard,  two 
cooked  egg-yolks,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  milk  and  all  the  liquid  pressed  out; 
beat  the  whole  with  two  raw  egg  yolks,  half  a  coffeespoonful  of  pepper,  some  salt  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  sweet  Spanish  peppers;  incorporate  in  a  pint  of  oil,  dropping  it  in  slowly,  and  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  tarragon  vinegar,  also  a  little  water.  Just  when  serving  mix  in  the  sweet  Spanish  peppers, 
previously  broiled  so  their  skin  can  be  removed,  then  cut  them  up  in  squares.  The  sweet  peppers 
can  be  replaced  by  those  that  come  in  cans,  which  are  very  well  prepared. 

(611X  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  WITH  ARROWROOT  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  a  1'Arrowroot). 
In  case  any  difficulty  be  found  to  raise  a  mayonnaise  either  on  account  of  defective  oil,  or  on 
account  of  the  weather,  the  following  manner  will  explain  how  always  to  obtain  a  good  result: 
Dilute  in  cold  water  in  a  small  saucepan,  a  heaping  spoonful  of  arrowroot  or  simply  fecula;  be 
careful  there  are  no  lumps  in  it,  then  heat  it  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  well  with  a  spoon,  until  it 
forms  a  smooth  paste,  having  it  hard,  in  preference  to  soft.  As  soon  as  this  is  done,  pour 
it  into  a  vessel,  and  beat  it  with  a  spoon  until  it  loses  its  greatest  heat,  then  mix  in  a  pinch  of  salt, 
a  little  red  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  ground  mustard,  and  three  or  four  raw  egg-yolks.  Work  well 
the  preparation  while  pouring  in  very  slowly,  two  or  three  gills  of  good  sweet  oil,  alternating  it 
with  a  dash  of  vinegar. 

(612).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE,  GREEN  WITH  PINE  HERBS,  PRINTANIERE,  AND   RAVIGOTE 
(Sauce  Mayonnaise  Verte  aux  Fines  Herbes  Printaniere  et  Ravigote). 

Pick  and  wash  a  handful  of  chervil,  tarragon,  chives,  burnet  and  garden  water-cress. 
Blanch  them  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  five  minutes,  then  drain,  refresh  and  press  well  to  extract 
all  the  water.  Pound  this  thoroughly,  adding  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  some  ground  mustard. 
Mix  this  ravigote  into  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  and  color  it  a  fine  pistache  green  with 
some  spinach  green. 

(613).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  WITH  JELLY  AND  JELLIED  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  a  la  Gel6e  et 

Collee). 

In  order  to  make  this  mayonnaise  set  a  thin  tin  salad  bowl  on  chopped  ice  containing  one  pint  of 
white  jelly  (No.  103),  add  to  it  a  pint  of  oil,  a  gill  of  tarragon  vinegar,  a  little  salt,  and  some  white  or 
red  pepper.  Stir  the  mixture  well  with  an  egg-beater  being  careful  to  remove  all  that  adheres  to 
the  sides,  then  add  little  by  little  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  also  some  chopped  and  blanched  chervil 
may  be  advantageously  added  to  the  sauce. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce  Jellied. — Use  an  ordinary  mayonnaise  (No.  606)  with  oil,  pouring  into  it  slowly 
some  cold  liquid  jelly  (No.  103).  A  jellied  mayonnaise  may  also  be  prepared  by  whipping  the  jelly 
on  ice  and  incorporating  into  it  at  the  same  time  some  oil  and  vinegar,  exactly  the  same  as  for  the 
egg  mayonnaise. 

(614).  MAYONNAISE  SAUCE  WITH  FRUIT  JELLY  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  a  la  Gele"e  de  Fruits). 

Break  four  raw  egg-yolks  into  a  vessel;  mix  in  with  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  salt  and 
a  little  white  and  red  pepper,  stir  well  and  incorporate  slowly,  especially  at  first,  one  quart  of  sweet 
oil  and  eight  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  at  different  intervals.  To  make  the  fruit  jelly  mayonnaise,  add 
for  one  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606i,  one  spoonful  of  English  mustard,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  either  of  currant,  grape,  apple,  quince  or  cranberry  jelly. 


SAUCES.  327 

(615).  MAYONNAISE  MOUSSELINE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Mayonnaise  Mousseline). 

Made  with  a  jelly  mayonnaise  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  613,  leaving  out  the  chervil,  and 
stirring  in  the  same  quantity  of  unsweetened  whipped  cream,  well  drained  and  very  firm.  An 
ordinary  mayonnaise  without  being  jellied  can  also  be  used. 

(616).  MINT  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Menthe). 

Put  into  a  sauce-boat  half  a  glassful  of  good  vinegar,  a  strong  pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  a 
little  cayenne  pepper,  and  two  heavy  pinches  of  finely  chopped  fresh  mint  leaves;  let  them  infuse 
for  half  an  hour. 

Another  way. — Mix  in  a  saucepan  one  gill  of  good  vinegar  with  the  same  quantity  of  water; 
add  to  it  two  spoonfuls  of  powdered  or  brown  sugar;  boil  it  up  once,  and  then  set  it  away  to  get 
cold;  put  in  some  finely  shredded  fresh  mint  leaves. 

(617).  ORANGE  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  1'Orange). 

Have  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  two  gills  of  port  wine,  the  juice  of  three  oranges 
and  of  two  lemons,  and  the  peel  of  two  oranges  grated  into  sugar.  Dissolve  the  currant  jelly 
and  the  flavored  orange  sugar  with  the  liquids,  add  a  grain  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  cayenne,  then 
strain  the  sauce;  it  should  be  more  light  than  consistent.  This  sauce  is  excellent  for  either  cold 
or  hot  game. 

(618).  PEACH  OR  APPLE  MARMALADE  (Marmelade  de  Peches  ou  de  Pommes). 

Peaches. — Peel  and  remove  the  stones  from  one  pound  of  peaches,  cook  in  a  little  water, 
drain  and  press  through  a  sieve,  sweeten  with  an  ounce  of  brown  sugar.  These  marmalades  are 
for  roast  meats  and  poultry. 

Apples. — A  pound  of  peeled  apples  cooked  in  a  little  water,  pressed  through  a  sieve  and 
sweetened  with  an  ounce  of  brown  sugar. 

(619).  PERSILLADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Persillade). 

Place  in  a  small  bowl  one  tablespoonf ul  of  mustard  and  four  pounded  hard  boiled  egg-yolks, 
dilute  this  gradually  with  two  gills  of  oil  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  or  the  juice  of  four 
lemons ;  add  to  it  salt,  pepper  and  mignonette,  some  parsley  leaves,  chervil  and  tarragon,  all 
finely  chopped,  and  serve  the  sauce  separately.  Chopped  hard  boiled  egg-whites  are  frequently 
added  to  this  sauce. 

(620).  POIVRADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Poivrade). 

Put  into  a  bowl  one  gill  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  add  to  it  twice  its  quantity  of  oil,  some 
Chili  and  tarragon  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt;  beat  the  whole  together  with  a  whisk  and  throw  in 
a  teaapoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  some  finely  chopped  blanched  shallots. 

(621),  POLISH  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Polonaise). 

Squeeze  into  a  sauce  boat  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  of  two  oranges;  add  to  them  a  heavy 
pinch  of  mignonette,  two  teaspoonf uls  of  mustard,  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  pulverized  sugar;  mix 
well  and  dilute  this  preparation  sufficiently  to  have  it  the  consistency  of  a  syrup. 

(622).  RAISIN  SAUCE  (Sauce  aux  Raisins). 

Pour  two  gills  of  good  vinegar  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  two 
bay  leaves  and  as  much  thyme,  peppercorns  and  cloves;  reduce  the  liquid  to  half;  then  add  four 
gills  of  good  gravy  (No.  404).  Boil  the  whole,  dissolve  a  tablespoonful  of  fecula  in  two  gills  of 
cold  broth,  mix  in  with  the  sauce,  then  boil,  skim  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins 
and  the  same  quantity  of  currants,  also  half  a  pound  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  dissolving  it 
slowly;  let  the  sauce  get  cold  and  serve  it  up  with  game. 

(623).  RAVIGOTE  SAUCE  WITH  OIL  (Sauce  Ravigote  a  1'Huile). 

Pound  a  handful  of  chervil,  burnet,  tarragon  and  chives,  also  a  little  garlic  and  shallot; 
add  to  them  a  spoonful  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  some  salt,  white  and  red  pepper,  ground  mus- 
tard and  grated  horseradish  root;  pass  all  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  mix  in  with  it  sufficient 
oil  and  vinegar  to  obtain  a  sauce  that  will  not  be  too  thick. 


328  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(624).  REMOULADE  SAUCE  (Sauce  Remoulade), 

Chop  up  well  one  blanched  shallot,  have  a  handful  of  parsley  leaves,  chervil,  tarragon  and 
burnet;  pound  the  whole  in  a  small  marble  mortar;  add  four  nicely  cleaned  anchovy  fillets,  five 
or  six  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  rub  all  the  ingredients  through  a  sieve,  then  mix  in  three  or  four  raw 
yolks,  stir  into  this  preparation  one  pint  of  oil,  half  a  gill  of  vinegar  and  mustard,  the  same  as  for 
mayonnaise  (No.  606)  and  finish  the  sauce  with  capers,  finely  chopped  pickled  gherkins  and  a  dash 
of  cayenne  pepper. 

(625).  REMOULADE  SAUCE,  INDIAN  STYLE  (Sauce  Remoulade,  a  I'lndienne), 
Pound  in  a  mortar  four  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  add  to  them  two  raw  yolks,  one  spoonful  of 
mustard,  salt,  pepper  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  water  in  which  a  few 
saffron  leaves  have  been  infused  and  a  quarter  of  a  coffeespoonful  of  curry;  strain  all  through  a 
sieve  and  put  the  preparation  into  a  bowl  to  stir  and  work  in  slowly  one  pint  of  sweet  oil,  and  half 
a  gill  of  vinegar,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  some  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  chives 
and  two  shallots  chopped  and  blanched,  besides  the  hard  boiled  egg-whites  cut  into  small  squares. 

(626).   EEMOULADE  SAUCE  VERT-PEE  (Sauce  Eemoulade  Vert-Pre"). 

Place  in  a  mortar  four  hard  boiled  egg -yolks  with  two  raw  yolks,  two  spoonfuls  of  mustard, 
salt,  pepper  and  a  smack  of  garlic;  pound  them  well  together  and  then  press  through  a  sieve  and 
lay  the  compound  in  a  bowl;  work  it  well,  incorpoi'ating  into  it  one  pint  of  oil  and  half  a  gill  of 
vinegar,  till  it  becomes  the  consistency  of  a  mayonnaise.  Cut  three  shallots  in  small 
squares  and  blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  drain  and  add  them  to  the  mayonnaise;  chop  separately 
a  handful  of  parsley,  chervil  and  half  as  much  tarragon,  burnet,  water-cress  and  chives;  mix 
together  all  these  herbs,  and  put  in  three  heaping  tablespoonf  uls  to  the  prepared  mayonnaise,  coloi 
it  a  pretty  pistache  color  with  spinach  green,  and  throw  in  when  finished  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped 
up  capers. 

(627).  EEMOULADE  SAUCE  WITH  ANCHOVIES    (Sauce  Ee"moulade  aux  Anchois). 
Pound  four  hard  boiled  egg- yolks;  add  to  them  four  raw  egg-yolks,  two  spoonfuls  of  mustard 
and  eight  anchovies;  rub  all  through  a  sieve,  and  put  the  mixture  into  a  vessel  to  work  and  stir  in 
gradually  one  pint  of  oil  and  a  half  gill  of  vinegar,  season  with  very  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
then  add  three  chopped  and  blanched  shallots,  some  parsley  and  two  ounces  of  chopped  capers. 

(628),  RE'MOULADE  SAUCE  WITH  FINE  HERBS  (SauceEe'mouladeaux  Fines  Herbes). 
Put  into  a  bowl  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard,  salt,  pepper  and  a  raw  egg-yolk  ;  beat  this  up 
«vith  a  wooden  spatula  and  pour  very  slowly  into  it  from  six  to  eight  spoonfuls  of  oil,  also  two  of 
tinegar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  Chili  vinegar  ;  add  finely  chopped  parsley,  chervil  and  tarragon. 

(629).  ROSSEBERRY  SAUCE  (Sauce  k  la  Rosseberry). 

This  sauce  is  made  with  one  tablespoonful  of  English  mustard  diluted  in  a  gill  of  good 
Tinegar,  adding  a  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  tablespooufuls  of  grated  fresh 
horseradish,  then  adding  some  salt  and  chopped  parsley. 

(630).  ROUGEMONT  SAUCE  (Sauce  a  la  Rougemont). 

Procure  four  ounces  of  lobster  coral  or  eggs,  the  creamy  parts  of  the  bodies  of  two  lobsters,  and 
pound  these  together  with  six  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  then  press  the  whole  through  a  sieve  into  a 
bowl;  dilute  and  incorporate  into  it  five  gills  of  oil  and  half  a  gill  of  vinegar,  two  chopped  and 
blanched  shallots,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  a  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  and  chervil,  and  half  as  much 
chopped  parsley,  as  well  as  one  ounce  of  chopped  pickled  gherkins. 

(631).  TARTAR  SAUCE  (Sauce  Tartare). 

Deposit  in  a  bowl  one  gill  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mustard,  four 
fresh  egg-yolks,  salt  and  pepper;  stir  well  together  and  incorporate  into  it  five  gills  of  oil  and  half 
a  gill  of  tarragon  vinegar,  two  chopped  and  blanched  shallots,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  tarragon  and  chervil,  also  half  the  quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  and  an  ounce  of 
chopped  up  pickled  gherkins. 


SAUCES.  329 

(632).  TARTAR  SATTOE,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Sauce  Tartare,  a  1'Anglaise). 
Make  a  mayonnaise  with  three  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  veloute,  (No.  415)   a  pinch 
of  ground  mustard,  salt,  and  sweet  oil;  stir  into  it  gradually  two  spoonfuls  of  English  anchovy 
essence;  the  same  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  the  same  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  so  as  to  give  the  tar- 
tar a  fine  dark  color. 

(633).  TOMATO  CATSUP  (Catsup  de  Tomates). 

Boil  one  quart  of  vinegar  in  a  saucepan,  adding  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  capsicum 
peppers,  one  ounce  of  garlic,  half  an  ounce  of  shallot,  all  nicely  peeled,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  white  ground  pepper,  also  a  coffeespoonful  of  red  pepper,  and  let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then 
strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  in  with  this  vinegar,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  tomatoes,  reduce 
all  together  and  then  add  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  and  salt  to  taste.  Should  this  sauce  be  too 
thick,  add  more  vinegar  or  some  water;  fill  up  the  bottles,  let  stand  till  cold,  then  put  them  in 
a  very  cool  place  to  use  when  needed.  This  sauce  is  excellent  as  a  relish  for  cold  meats  fish, 
oysters,  etc. 

(634).  VINEGAR  SAUCE  WITH  FINE  HERBS  (Vinaigrette  anx  Piues  Herbes). 
Chop  up  finely  the  following  herbs:  chives,  chervil,  tarragon,  and  parsley;  put  them  into  a 
bowl  with  some  salt,  pepper,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  six  of  olive  oil; 
stir  all  well  together  and  serve. 

(635).  VINEGAR  SAUCE  WITH  SHALLOTS   AND   MUSTARD  rv'kaigrette  aux  Echalotes    et 

a  la  Moutarde). 

Cut  a  shallot  in  one-eight  inch  squares,  blanch  and  drain  it.  Put  one  gill  of  vinegar  in  a 
bowl,  add  to  it  salt  and  two  gills  of  sweet  oil,  some  mustard,  and  the  blanched  shallots. 

(636).  ZISKA  SAUCE,  PARISIAN  SAUCE  FOR  ALL  FOODS  (Sauce  Ziska,  Sauce  Parisienne  pour 

tous  Mets). 

Put  into  a  bowl  two  teaspoonfuls  of  English  mustard  with  a  little  salt  and  some  sugar;  beat 
it  all  well  together,  then  pour  in  slowly  the  value  of  three  gills  of  sweet  oil,  and  half  a  gill  of  good 
vinegar,  also  a  few  finely  chopped  pickled  gherkins. 

Parisian  Sauce  for  all  Foods. — Put  into  an  earthen  vessel,  either  over  hot  cinders  or  in  a 
heater  for  twenty-four  hours,  two  gills  of  water,  two  gills  of  vinegar,  one  gill  of  verjuice,  two  gills 
of  white  wine,  one  ounce  of  ground  mustard  seeds,  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  ground  ginger,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  four  ounces 
of  salt,  a  few  branches  of  basil,  four  bay  leaves,  two  ounces  of  pounded  shallots,  one  dried  bitter 
orange  peel,  and  half  a  gill  of  lemon  juice.  After  all  these  have  infused  for  two  days,  strain  the 
sauce  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  into  bottles,  and  keep  it  to  use  for  cold  meats. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


All  the  following  garnishings  may  be  served  for  removes  by  arranging  them  in  clusters  and 
making  them  either  larger  or  smaller,  according  to  the  dishes  required  to  be  garnished.  For  large 
pieces  of  meat  that  are  intended  for  removes  they  must  be  larger  than  for  those  intended  for  en- 
trees; in  the  latter  case  they  should  be  mixed  together  instead  of  being  dressed  in  separate  groups. 

(637).    ADMIEAL  GAENISHING    (Garniture  I  TAmiral). 

Take  eight  mussels  a  la  Villeroi  (No.  698),  sixteen  fluted  mushrooms  (No.  118),  half  a  pound 
of  skinned  and  sauted  shrimps;  eight  trussed  crawfish,  the  tail  shell  removed.  Parsley  leaves  to 
be  arranged  in  bunches  at  both  ends.  Serve  with  Normande  sauce  (No.  509).  For  an  entree 
mix  the  mushrooms  and  shrimps  with  the  sauce,  add  chopped  parsley  and  oranges  around  the 
Villeroi  mussels  and  crawfish. 

(638).    A  LA  EEINE  GAENISEING    (Garniture  a  la  Eeine). 

Is  composed  of  the  white  meat  cut  from  a  cooked  chicken,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  all  being 
cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.  This  garnishing  is  used  with  bouchees  of  the  same 
name,  or  else  inside  small  patties  a  la  Reine;  in  this  case  mingle  the  ingredients  with  a  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  leave  it  to  get  cool  before  filling  the  patties. 

(639).  ANDALOUSE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  a  1'Andalouse). 

Made  with  eight  braised  lettuce,  eight  small  Chorisos  (smoked  sausages)  cooked  with  the 
cabbage,  two  pounds  of  cabbage,  half  a  pound  of  chick  peas;  one  pound  of  braised  ham;  one  pint 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  two  gills  of  tomatoes  (No.  730).  Dress  the  lettuce, 
the  cabbage  and  the  chick  peas  in  clusters,  range  the  sausages  on  one  end  and  the  ham  on  the 
other. 

(640).  AQUITAINE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  a  1'Aquitaine). 

Have  a  pound  of  escaloped  duck  livers  sauted  in  butter;  half  a  pound  of  small  button  mush- 
rooms cooked  with  butter,  lemon  juice,  salt  and  water;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  small  whole  truffles, 
cooked  in  Madeira  wine;  half  a  pound  of  pressed  beef  palate  cut  cock's-comb  shape,  warmed  in 
meat  glaze  (No.  401)  and  butter.  Infuse  a  stick  of  Ceylon  cinnamon  for  ten  minutes  in  a  gill  of 
Madeira  wine;  strain  this  through  a  napkin  into  a  quart  of  reduced  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 
Dress  the  garnishing  in  clusters,  pour  over  half  the  sauce  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  separate 
sauce-boat.  This  garnishing  can  be  used  for  entrees;  if  this  be  the  case,  mix  the  ingredients 
composing  it  together  in  a  sautoire  with  the  sauce,  and  dress  them. 

(641).  BAELET  A  LA  EEINE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  d'Orge  a  la  Eeine) 
Wash  in  several  waters  four  ounces  of  pearl  barley;  cook  it  in  salted  water  for  three  hours 
until  thoroughly  done,  and  it  crushes  easily  when  pressed  between  the  fingers;  drain  and  let  it 
simmer  in  a  little  good,  fresh  cream.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  an  equal  quantity  of 
chicken  puree  (No.  713)  with  almond  milk  (No.  4),  and  with  this  garnish  some  croustades  (hol- 
low tartlets  made  of  fine  paste  (No.  135)  rolled  out  very  thin). 

(642).  BEEF  TONGUE  GAENISHING,  ANDALUSIAN  TOMATO  SAUCE    (Garniture  de  Langue  de 

Bceuf,  Sauce  Tomates  Andalouse). 

Cut  twelve  slices,  each  one  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  from  the  thick  end  of  a  cooked 
beef  tongue;  pare  them  neatly  either  into  rounds,  ovals,  or  half  hearts;  heat  them  in  a  little  half 
glaze  (No.  413),  and  dress  them  around  a  remove  covering  with  a  Andalusian  tomato  sauce  (No. 
550). 

(331) 


332  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(643;.  BOUOHEES  OF  PUREE  OP  PHEASANTS  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Bouche*es  a  la  Purge 

de  Paisans). 

Prepare  a  dozen  puff  paste  bouchees  (No.  11),  cook  them  only  a  short  time  before  they  are 
needed  so  as  not  to  be  obliged  to  heat  them  over  again.  After  they  are  emptied,  keep  them  warm. 
Put  into  a  saucepan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  pheasant  puree  (No.  716);  press  through  a  tammy  (No. 
170),  and  heat  it  while  stirring  well  on  a  slow  fire  and  incorporate  into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  game 
fumet  (No.  397),  reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  but  be  careful  it  does  not  boil;  season  highly  and  finish 
by  stirring  in  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Fill  the  bouchees  with  this  puree,  baste  over  with  a  little 
sauce  and  cover  either  with  their  own  covers,  or  else  with  a  round  piece  of  cooked  truffle  cut 
out  with  a  column  tube  (Fig.  168).  Dress  pyramidically  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(644),  BOURGEOISE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Bourgeoise), 

Have  two  pounds  of  cabbage,  parboiled  and  cooked  with  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  blanched 
for  fifteen  minutes,  moisten  with  a  quart  of  strained  broth  (No.  194a),  and  its  fat.  Twenty  pieces 
•of  small  cork  shaped  turnips,  blanched  and  cooked  in  broth,  reduced  to  a  glaze  just  when  cooked. 
Twenty  small  pear-shaped  carrots,  blanched,  cooked  in  broth,  and  reduced  to  a  glaze  just  as  they 
are  finished.  Twenty  small,  blanched,  braised  and  glazed  onions.  Dress  the  cabbage  on  both  ends 
of  the  meat,  garnishing  the  former  with  the  salt  pork  cut  in  slices,  and  group  the  carrots,  turnips. 
«nd  onions  around  in  alternate  clusters.  Serve  separately  a  gravy  (No.  404)  thickened  with  cspag- 
«iole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  well  reduced. 

(645).  BRETIGNY  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Biftigny). 

Kemove  the  breasts  from  sixteen  reedbirds,  roll  them  in  a  sauce  made  with  some  gravy  (No. 
404),  to  which  has  been  added  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  the  carcasses  and  a  little  Madeira  wine, 
the  whole  allowed  to  reduce  and  then  strained.  Have  sixteen  pieces  of  channeled  mushrooms 
(No.  118)  cooked  in  butter,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  truffles;  sixteen  slices 
of  sweetbread  of  one  ounce  each,  blanched  and  sauted  in  butter  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  chopped  parsley.  Sixteen  pieces  of  potato  cut  into  one  inch  diameter  balls,  then  blanched 
and  sauted  in  butter.  Range  the  potato  balls  on  the  ends  of  the  dish,  and  place  the  sweet- 
breads, mushrooms,  and  reedbird  breasts  around  in  alternate  clusters.  Serve  with  this 
garnishing  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  Madeira  sauce  with  truffle  essence  (No.  395). 

(646).  PARMA  BROCHETTES  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Brochettes  de  Panne), 
Made  with  semolino  cooked  in  light  broth  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Prepare  a  well  cooked  and 
thick  mush;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  finish  it  with  some  grated  parmesan  and  butter,  seasoning 
it  to  taste.  Spread  this  preparation  in  layers  on  baking  sheets  dampened  with  cold  water,  having 
each  one  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  as  soon  as  they  are  cold  and  stiff,  cut  them  into  one  inch 
rounds;  prepare  half  as  many  rounds  of  the  very  best  fresh  Swiss  cheese.  Take  some  small  wooden 
skewers,  and  pass  on  each  three  rounds,  one  of  cheese  and  two  of  semolino,  placing  the  cheese  one 
in  the  center;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs.  A  few  minutes 
before  serving  plunge  them  into  hot  fat,  a  few  at  the  time,  to  heat  and  get  a  nice  color,  then  drain 
and  serve  them  separately  on  a  folded  napkin,  or  else  around  the  piece  to  be  garnished. 

(647).  BRUSSELS  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Bruxelloise). 

One  pound  of  Brussells  sprouts,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme  (No.  189).  Half  a 
pound  of  salt  pork  cut  in  slices  and  broiled.  Half  a  pound  of  carrot  balls  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  blanched,  cooked  in  consomme  (No.  189)  and  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Half  a  pound 
of  small  blanched  onions  braised  and  glazed.  One  pound  of  Chipolata  sausages  cut  in  two  length- 
wise. Dress  all  these  garnishings  in  different  groups  around  the  remove,  and  serve  separately  a 
sauce-boat  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  ham  essence  (No.  390)  added. 

(648).  FRIED  OALVES'  BRAIN  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Oervelles  Frites). 
Calves  and  lambs'  brains  are  those  most  generally  used  for  garnishings.  They  are  first  soaked 
so  as  to  be  able  to  scrape  and  cleanse  them  properly,  then  cooked  in  water  with  some  salt,  vinegar, 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  sliced  onions,  branches  of  parsley  and  pepper  corns.  Let  the  brains  get  cold  in  a 
vessel  containing  their  own  strained  broth,  and  then  divide  the  calves'  brains  into  six  pieces,  and 
lambs'  brains  into  two  rounds  or  ovals.  Dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  them  a  fine  golden  color  in  hot  fat.  Serve  separately  a  Chateaubriand  sauce  (No.  446). 


GAKNISHINGU3.  333 

(649).   CARDINAL  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Cardinal), 

The  cardinal  garnishing  is  composed  of  twelve  ounces  of  lobster  quenelles  made  with  a  tea- 
spoon (No.  155),  twelve  ounces  of  sauted  shrimps,  twelve  ounces  of  small  ouions  blanched  and  then 
cooked  in  fish  stock  (No.  417)  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze,  six  ounces  of  small  whole  truffles  rolled  in 
a  little  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  and  fresh  butter,  then  arranged  pyramidically,  the  onions  dressed  the 
same.  Dress  the  quenelles  in  clusters  and  cover  them  lightly  with  a  Cardinal  sauce  (No.  442), 
and  the  shrimps  sauted  in  butter  with  fine  herbs  and  lemon  juice.  Some  Cardinal  sauce  to  be 
served  separately. 

(650).    OEPES  OR  MUSHROOMS  STUFPED  A  LA  DUXELLE,  PROVENCAL  OR  MINCED  WITH 
BECHAMEL  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Cepes  ou  de  Champignons  Farcis   a  la  Duxelle, 
Provenpale  Emince's  a  la  Bechamel). 

Eemove  the  stalks  from  two  pounds  of  young  cepes  or  mushrooms,  wash  them  well  and  cook 
them  with  lemon  juice,  some  butter  and  salt.  (In  case  no  fresh  cepes  can  be  obtained  then  use 
preserved  ones.)  For  garnishings,  the  heads  alone  are  employed.  Drain  them,  and  fry  them  in 
some  sweet  oil  with  a  finely  chopped  shallot  and  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  gill  of  brown  espagnole  (No.  414),  also  a  tablespoonful  of 
meat  glaze  (No.  401)  and  some  chopped-up  truffles.  Cepes  or  mushrooms  are  also  used  as  a  gar- 
nishing when  stuffed  with  a  Duxelle  (No.  385),  thickened  with  a  little  raw  lamb  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  92)  or  else  a  baked  liver  forcemeat  (No.  64).  In  both  cases  they  are  to  be  placed  in  a 
baking-sheet  and  sprinkled  over  with  either  oil  or  melted  butter,  putting  them  into  the  oven  to 
bake.  Sliced  cepes  or  mushrooms  are  also  to  be  used  as  a  garnishing,  cutting  them  up  finely  and 
sauteing  them  in  butter  or  oil,  then  thickened  with  bechamel  (No.  409),  reduced  with  a  little 
meat  glaze  (No.  401).  These  minced  cepes  are  served  either  on  hollow  crusts  or  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

(651).  OHAMBORD  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Chambord). 

The  Chambord  garnishing  is  composed  of  eighteen  pieces  of  truffles  cut  the  shape  of  a  clove  of 
garlic  and  cooked  in  Madeira  wine  and  afterward  rolled  in  a  little  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  and  fine 
butter.  Eighteen  crawfish  tails  from  which  the  shells  have  been  removed  and  the  bodies  glazed. 
Eighteen  heads  of  fluted  mushrooms  (No.  118)  cooked  in  a  little  water,  butter  and  lemon  juice. 
Ten  pieces  of  fish  quenelles  decorated  with  truffles.  Eighteen  small  pieces  of  milt  a  la  Villeroi 
(No.  698),  or  fillets  of  striped  bass;  a  lean  Spanish  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  white 
wine,  or  else  a  lean  veloute*  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  fish  broth,  mushrooms  and  champagne 
wine,  and  buttered  at  the  last  moment.  Dress  the  truffles,  the  mushroom  heads  and  the  crawfish 
in  alternate  clusters,  and  cover  them  either  with  the  white  or  brown  sauce;  arrange  around  this 
garnishing  the  quenelles  decorated  with  truffles,  the  Villeroi  milts  or  fillets  of  striped  bass,  and 
send  a  third  part  of  the  sauce  to  the  table  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(652).  EGGS  WITH  CHEESE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  d'ceufs  au  Fromage). 

This  garnishing  is  composed  of  two  ounces  of  butter,  six  whole  eggs,  four  ounces  of  Swiss  and 
parmesan  cheese,  both  grated,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Beat  up  the  eggs  for  two  minutes, 
add  to  them  the  cheese,  sugar,  nutmeg,  and  half  of  the  butter;  melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter  in 
a  saucepan,  pour  into  it  the  eggs,  and  stir  the  liquid  over  a  slow  fire  using  a  spoon  for  this  purpose^ 
until  the  compound  thickens  to  the  consistency  of  cream.  Take  it  off  the  fire,  keep  stirring  it  again 
for  two  minutes,  then  mix  in  with  it  two  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream  or  veloute  (No.  415).  Pour  the 
melted  cheese  in  some  boat  shaped  tartlet  crusts,  made  with  very  thin  foundation  paste;  bake  them 
in  a  hot  oven  and  serve. 

(653).  CHEESE  CRUST  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Croutes  au  Fromage). 

First  cut  some  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  from  a  kitchen  loaf;  divide  them  into  long 
squares,  two  and  a  half  inches  by  one  and  a  quarter.  Grate  some  Swiss  and  parmesan  cheese,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  each,  and  put  it  into  a  vessel  with  three  soupspoonfuls  of  Stilton  cheese,  and 
mash  them  together  with  a  spoon  in  order  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste,  then  work  into  it  slowly  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  sherry  wine  or  ale,  without  letting  it  get  too  soft,  season  with  red  pepper,  and 
cayenne.  Moisten  lightly  with  melted  butter  the  prepared  slices  of  bread,  toast  them  on  both  sides 


334  THE    EPICUREAN. 

cover  one  side  with  a  layer  of  the  cheese  preparation;  dredge  over  them  some  grated  parmesan, 
and  lay  the  slices  on  a  dish  to  push  it  in  the  oven  so  as  to  color  the  tops,  or  else  use  a  salamander 
(Fig.  123)  for  the  purpose;  arrange  these  toasts  around  a  remove  or  else  serve  them  separately  on  a 
folded  napkin  or  simply  on  a  plate. 

For  Chester  Cheese. — Use  the  same  slices  of  bread,  only  instead  of  toasting  them,  lay  them  in 
a  sautoire  with  hot  clarified  butter;  brown  them  on  one  side  only,  then  drain,  and  leave  the  butter 
in  the  sautoire.  Cover  the  fried  sides  with  a  layer  of  grated  cheese  (Chester),  sprinkle  over  a  dash 
of  cayenne  pepper,  and  return  the  crusts  to  the  sautoire  containing  the  butter,  then  push  it  into  a 
moderately  heated  oven.  When  the  cheese  has  become  creamy,  take  out  the  sautoire,  and  dress 
the  crusts  either  on  folded  napkins  or  around  a  remove. 

(654).  CHESTNUT  WITH  GEAVY  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Marrons  an  jus). 
Peel  two  pounds  of  chestnuts;  scald  them  so  as  to  be  able  to  remove  their  red  skins,  then  lay 
them  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan.  Moisten  them  to  their  height  with  broth  (No.  194a)  and  let 
the  liquid  come  to  a  boil,  then  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  tire  while  cooking  the 
chestnuts,  being  careful  to  keep  them  whole.  After  they  are  tender  the  moistening  should  be 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  and  then  glaze  them  over  with  a  brush  before  serving  them.  Another  way  is 
to  split  the  shells  on  the  side  of  each  chestnut,  plunge  them  into  very  hot  frying  fat,  drain,  and 
peel  off  the  shells  and  red  skins;  cook  them  in  boiling  water  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce 
of  celery,  a  little  sugar  and  salt;  simmer  the  whole  and  reduce  the  moisture  entirely,  then  add  a 
little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  some  good  gravy  (No.  404);  reduce  and  roll  the  chestnuts  around 
so  as  to  glaze  them  thoroughly  and  dress  them  either  around  a  remove  or  in  the  center  of  an  entree. 

(655).  OHEVEEUSE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  Ohevreuse), 

Eight  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  small  slices,  heated  in  Madeira  wine  and  some  meat  glaze  (No.  401). 
Sixteen  ounces  of  foies-gras  of  either  duck  or  goose,  weighing  in  all  about  a  pound.  Thirty-two 
pieces  of  stuffed  Spanish  olives.  Mingle  these  garnishings  together  in  a  sautoire,  and  add  one 
quart  of  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  and  at  the  very  last  moment  add  two  ounces  of  very  fine  butter. 

(656).  CHICKEN  MINION  HLLETS  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Filets  Mignons  de  Poulet). 

Pare  the  minion  fillets  by  removing  the  inside  nerve,  and  the  fine  skin  which  covers  them,  have 
them  all  the  same  shape  and  size,  then  cut  on  each  minion  five  or  six  small  crosswise  incisions 
dividing  them  in  equal  spaces,  and  in  these  incisions  lay  small,  round  slices  of  truffles,  half  an  inch 
in  diameter  and  cut  very  thin.  Lay  the  minions  on  buttered  sheets,  giving  them  the  shape  either 
of  a  crescent  or  else  laying  them  straight  without  bending  them,  but  they  can  also  be  rolled  around 
a  column  mold  and  laid  one  beside  the  other,  streak  half  of  them  with  truffles  and  the  others  with 
tongue,  and  fill  the  inside  of  them  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  place  on  each  of  those 
streaked  with  truffles  an  olive,  and  on  those  streaked  with  tongue  a  ball  of  truffles,  half  an  inch  in 
diameter,  put  them  in  a  buttered  sautoire,  moisten  with  a  little  mushroon  essence  (No.  392),  cover 
them  with  buttered  paper,  and  let  them  poach  in  a  slow  oven.  Use  these  minions  for  improving 
garnishings. 

(657).  OHIPOLATA  GAENISHING  (Garniture  k  la  Chipolata). 

This  garnishing  is  composed  of  eighteen  small  whole  carrots  or  else  cut  into  balls  and  glazed, 
eighteen  small  glazed  onions,  eighteen  cooked  mushrooms,  fluted  (No.  118)  eighteen  whole  chestnuts 
moistened  with  broth  and  cooked  until  they  fall  to  a  glaze,  and  small  broiled  Chipolata  sausages  (No. 
754).  Set  these  various  garnishings  into  a  sautoire,  and  pour  over  when  ready  to  serve  some 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  wine,  add  half  a  pound  of  half  inch  squares  of  salt 
pork,  fried  in  butter  and  cooked  in  consomme;  arrange  the  garnishing  in  clusters  for  removes,  or 
mingled  for  entrees. 

(658).  OHOUX  WITH  CHEESE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Ohoux  au  Promage). 
Prepare  a  pate-a-chou  with  three  gills  of  water,  half  a  pound  of  fiour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  when  dry  mix  into  the  paste  five  or  six  eggs  one  after 
the  other  and  finish  with  a  handful  of  grated  cheese.  Make  round  choux  laying  them  on  a  baking  tin 
a  short  distance  apart,  either  with  a  pocket  or  a  spoon,  egg  the  surfaces  and  dredge  over  with  parmesan ; 
bake  in  a  good  but  slackened  oven.  When  dry,  remove  and  leave  till  partly  cold,  then  open  the 
Bides  and  fill  each  one  with  a  spoonful  of  cheese  fondue  (No.  2954).  Dress  on  a  napkin  or 
around  a  remove. 


OAUJSTISHINOS.  335 

(659).  OOOKS'-COMBS  GAENISHING  A  LA  COLBEET  (Garniture  de  Cretes  de  coq  a  la  Colbert). 

Select  one  pound  of  cock's-combs  of  equal  size;  put  them  into  a  colander  and  plunge  it 
by  degrees  into  some  water  a  little  warmer  than  tepid,  then  heat  it  gradually,  in  the  meanwhile 
watching  them  attentively  until  they  are  done,  or  when  by  rubbing  them  with  a  cloth,  the  skin 
detaches.  Drain  at  once,  and  put  them  in  a  cloth  with  a  little  fine  salt,  and  rub  them  thoroughly 
till  they  are  clean;  finish  cleansing  by  rubbing  them  with  salt  between  the  fingers,  and  in  case  the 
skin  should  not  peel  off,  plunge  them  once  more  into  boiling  water,  and  finish  by  skinning  prop- 
erly. Now  put  them  into  warm  water  to  soak  for  twenty-four  hours,  changing  the  water  several 
times,  and  then  cut  off  the  tip  of  the  points  and  the  roots  of  the  combs;  lay  them  once  more  in 
plenty  of  salted,  tepid  water,  and  squeeze  them  well  to  make  them  disgorge  their  blood;  change 
the  water  several  times,  and  finish  by  cooking  them  very  slowly  in  acidulated  water,  then  drain 
dry,  and  roll  them  in  meat  glaze  (No.  401),  fine  butter  and  chopped  parsley. 

(660).  OONNETABLE  GAEMSBIlfG  (Garniture  Oonn^table), 

Prepare  sixteen  minion  fillets  of  chicken  well  freed  of  all  sinews  and  skin;  streak  eight  of  them 
with  tongue  and  dress  them  in  a  circle,  shaping  them  around  a  three-quarter  inch  column  cutter, 
put  them  on  small  square  pieces  of  buttered  paper;  fill  the  interiors  of  each  with  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89)  laid  through  a  pocket,  and  on  top  of  the  forcemeat  set  small  half  inch  balls  of 
truffles.  The  other  eight  minion  fillets  are  to  be  also  laid  in-  a  circle  on  squares  of  buttered  paper, 
filling  the  interiors  with  the  same  forcemeat  as  the  others,  but  on  the  top  of  each  set  a  stoned 
olive  stuffed  with  anchovies;  place  them  all  on  a  buttered  baking-pan,  cover  over  with  a  buttered 
paper,  moisten  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Have  sixteen  small 
game  quenelles  made  with  a  teaspoon  (No.  155)  and  laid  in  a  buttered  sautoire,  after  decorating 
them  with  pistachio  nuts,  and  poached  in  boiling  salted  water.  Sixteen  escalops  of  ducks'  liver, 
covered  on  both  sides  with  a  villeroy  sauce  (No.  560)  containing  mushrooms  and  raw  fine  herbs; 
let  these  get  cold,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  to  fine  golden 
color.  Garnish  the  remove  with  the  quenelles,  minions  and  Villeroi  ducks'  livers.  Serve  a 
financiere  sauce  (No.  464)  separately. 

(661).  CEAWTISH  GAENISHING  (Garniture  d'Ecrevisses). 

Whole  crawfish  are  sometimes  used  combined  with  other  garnishings,  but  they  are  considered 
more  as  decorations  than  otherwise;  in  any  case  they  must  first  be  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon 
(No.  38),  and  the  shells  removed  from  the  tails,  without  detaching  the  meat  from  the  bodies,  or  leave 
the  shells  on. 

How  to  Cook  Them. — Wash  the  crawfish,  changing  the  water  several  times  during  the  opera- 
tion; suppress  the  small  vein  found  in  the  middle  underneath  the  fins,  at  the  tail  end,  then  lay  the 
fish  in  a  saucepan,  and  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  vinegar,  or  white  wine,  sliced  onions,  branches 
of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf.  When  they  are  cooked,  break  off  the  small  side  claws,  and 
remove  the  shell  or  not  as  desired.  They  can  now  be  trussed  as  shown  in  Fig.  506,  for  skewers. 
The  crawfish  tails  after  being  picked  out  of  their  shells,  are  used  as  garnishings,  sauteing  them 
in  butter  and  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  fine  herbs  and  fish  glaze  (No.  399).  The  body  shells 
stuffed  with  forcemeat  (No.  90)  are  used  for  soups. 

(662).  DEMIDOPP  GAEftlSHING  (Garniture  a  la  Demidoff). 

Sixteen  pieces  of  small,  flat  lobster  croquettes  (No.  880),  sixteen  pieces  of  risolletes  of  pan- 
cakes with  forcemeat  or  hashed  fish,  sixteen  pieces  of  large  drained  oysters,  rolled  in  powdered 
crackers  and  fried  in  clarified  butter,  drained  and  dredged  over  with  chopped  parsley.  Dress  this 
garnishing  around  a  remove  and  serve  separately  a  lean  veloute  saucs  (No.  415)  reduced  with 
some  of  the  oyster  liquor. 

(663).  DOLPB3TTES  OF  CHICKEN  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Dolphettes  de  Poulet). 
Brown  two  shallots  in  two  ounces  of  butter;  add  one  pound  of  cooked  white  chicken  meat  cut 
in  one-eight  inch  squares,  and  four  ounces  of  ham  cut  the  same;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nut- 
meg, and  cover  the  whole  with  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  a  gill  of  tomato  sauce  (No. 
549).  Let  the  whole  boil  up  once,  then  remove  it,  and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold,  and  with  this  pre- 
paration make  crescent  shaped  croquettes;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry 
them  nicely. 


336  THE    EPIOURK AJSL 

(664).  DOLPHETTES  01  TENDERLOINS  OP  BEEF  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Dolphettes  de 

Tilet  de  Boeuf). 

Fry  colorless,  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  chopped  shallot;  add  to  it  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  cooked  and  finely  hashed  tenderloin  of  beef,  three  ounces  of  fresh  bread- 
crumbs, three  ounces  of  grated  parmesan,  and  eight  egg-yolks  or  two  to  three  whole  eggs.  Let  this 
preparation  cool  off,  then  divide  it  into  eight  parts,  forming  each  one  into  a  ball;  roll  these  in 
fresh  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  mixed  well  together  and  fry  them  to  a  fine  color. 

(665).  DUCHESS  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Duchesse). 

Lay  on  the  table  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour;  two  ounces  of  parmesan,  and  two  ounces  of 
Chester  cheese,  both  finely  grated;  a  grain  of  salt  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper;  dilute  with  a 
little  water  and  one  egg  so  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  and  firm  paste.  Roll  this  out  on  the  floured 
table  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  it  into  inch  and  a  half  diameter  round  pieces,  and 
lay  these  on  buttered  sheets;  cook  in  a  hot  oven,  not  having  them  brown.  Beat  up  some  fresh 
butter  in  a  bowl;  mix  in  with  it  double  its  quantity  of  grated  Chester  cheese,  and  a  dash  of 
cayenne  pepper.  Lay  the  round  pieces  of  cooked  paste  two  by  two,  one  on  top  of  the  other,  after 
spreading  them  all  thickly  with  the  cheese  preparation;  range  them  once  more  on  the  sheet,  and 
heat  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  then  dress  on  a  napkin  or  around  the  remove. 

(6661  FERMIERE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Fermiere). 

Sixteen  persons. — One  pound  and  a  half  of  braised  cabbage  (No.  2706),  arranged  in  clusters. 
Eighteen  small  braised  lettuce  (No.  2754),  eighteen  potatoes,  cut  olive  shaped,  blanched,  cooked 
afterward  in  broth,  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze.  Eighteen  pear  shaped  carrots,  blanched,  and  cooked  in 
white  broth,  then  let  fall  to  a  glaze.  Dress  all  these  garnishings  in  clusters,  being  careful  to 
alternate  tastefully  the  different  colors.  Serve  separately  thickened  gravy  (No.  405). 

(667).  FINANOIERE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Financiere). 

Sixteen  Persons.  For  Removes. — Should  the  garnishing  be  required  for  dressing  around  a 
large  piece,  then  it  can  be  composed  of  whole  peeled  truffles  of  quenelles,  molded  in  a  dessert- 
spoon (No.  155),  escalops  of  foies-gras,  mushroom  heads,  cock's-combs  and  kidneys,  lamb  sweet- 
breads or  small  veal  sweetbreads  larded  and  glazed.  This  garnishing  is  used  for  garnishing 
removes  of  poultry,  game  and  meats,  dressing  it  in  groups  around  and  serving  a  financiere  sauce 
(No.  464),  separately. 

For  Entrees. — Cooked,  peeled  and  minced  truffles;  small  mushroom  button  heads,  slices  of 
sweetbreads  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  pared  with  a  cutter  to  an  inch  in  diameter,  quarter  inch 
thick  slices  of  foies-gras  pared  with  an  inch  diameter,  round  cutter,  and  oblong  quenelles.  Put  the 
garnishings  into  a  sautoire  and  cover  with  financiere  sauce  (No.  464).  Use  this  garnishing  for 
covering  or  surrounding  entrees. 

(668).  FLEMISH  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Flamande). 

Blanch  and  drain  a  pound  and  a  half  of  cabbage,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  pepper,  one  onion  with  two  cloves  in  it,  and  sufficient  unskimmed  broth 
(No.  194a)  to  cover  the  cabbage,  then  let  cook  all  together  for  two  hours.  Cut  sixteen  carrots  into 
pear-shaped  pieces,  parboil  them  first,  and  then  finish  cooking  them  in  some  broth  with  sugar, 
until  they  fall  to  a  glaze.  Have  sixteen  cork-shaped  pieces  of  turnips,  parboil  and  cook  them  also 
in  consomme  with  sugar,  till  they  fall  to  a  glaze.  Drain  the  cabbage  when  it  is  done,  and  lay 
them  on  the  ends  of  the  remove  to  be  garnished,  being  careful  to  suppress  the  onion  containing  the 
cloves.  Cut  the  salt  pork  into  slices,  and  lay  these  on  top  of  the  cabbage,  then  set  the  carrots 
and  turnips  in  clusters  on  the  sides.  Serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  or  else  a  white 
sauce  (No.  562). 

(669).  FRENCH  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Franyaise). 

Twenty-four  pieces  of  truffles,  the  size  and  shape  of  a  crescent  olive,  in  a  good  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira.  Six  ounces  of  cooked  cock's-combs  and  four  ounces  of  cooked  cock's- 
kidneys.  Twenty-four  small  mushroom  heads,  turned  (No.  118),  sauted,  drained  and  rolled  in  meat 


337 

glaze  (No.  401)  and  fresh  butter,  twenty-four  pieces  of  small  chicken  quenelles  (No.  89)  poached  in 
a  small  pointed  mold  decorated  with  truffles,  twenty-four  crawfish  tails,  shelled  and  sauted  in 
butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  lemon  juice,  chopped  parsley,  meat  glaze  (No.  401)  and  fresh  butter. 
A  French  sauce  (No.  467),  to  be  served  separately. 

(670).  PEITADELLES  OF  VEAL  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Fritadelles  de  Veau), 
Dip  a  pound  and  a  half  of  bread-crumbs  in  some  milk,  and  when  well  soaked,  extract  all  the 
liquid;  have  a  pound  of  pared  and  well  chopped  roast  veal,  also  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped  beef 
marrow.  Put  two  ounces  of  chopped  up  onions  in  a  saucepan  to  fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  but 
do  not  let  it  attain  a  color,  then  add  the  veal,  the  pressed  bread-crumbs  and  the  beef  marrow,  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  also  a  finely  chopped  lemon  peel;  reduce  and  beat  in  two  eggs.  After  the 
preparation  has  cooled  off,  divide  it  into  small  parts  so  as  to  be  able  to  make  flat  croquettes,  dip 
them  in  egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  good  color. 

(671).  FEITADELLES  OP  EOAST  BEEP  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Pritadelles  de  Eosbif). 

Cut  into  three  sixteenth  inch  squares,  one  pound  of  lean  roast  beef,  chop  up  two 
ounces  of  onions,  fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  dredge  over  with  two  spoonfuls  of  flour, 
moisten  with  broth  and  reduce;  then  add  the  beef,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley  and  two 
ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  cut  as  small  as  the  beef,  heat  the  whole  without  boiling;  set  it  aside  to 
get  cold  and  then  roll  it  into  balls  one  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  flatten  down,  dip  in  beaten 
eggs,  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  nicely  in  butter. 

(672).  GODAED  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Godard). 

Make  twelve  quenelles,  in  an  entremet  spoon  (No.  155),  decorate  richly.  Twelve  small 
sweetbreads  larded  and  glazed,  the  throat  sweetbreads  if  possible.  Twelve  large  cock's-combs, 
and  twelve  cock's-kidneys.  Twelve  pieces  of  escalops  of  foies-gras,  cut  half  heart  shaped;  twelve 
fluted  mushrooms  (No.  118)  and  twelve  medium  whole  truffles,  all  rolled  in  a  little  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413).  Six  very  small  squabs  may  be  added  if  desired,  but  it  is  apt  to  make  the  garnishing  too 
large.  Dress  around  the  dish  in  clusters,  serve  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  separately. 

(673).  GEIBOULETTE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Griboulettes). 

Have  ten  ounces  of  chopped  raw  beef  free  of  nerves,  half  a  pound  of  kidney  suet,  the  skin  and 
fibers  suppressed;  chop  each  of  these  separately,  then  mix  in  with  them  five  ounces  of  fresh  bread- 
crumbs, three  tablespoonfuls  of  onions,  chopped  and  fried  in  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  and  pepper.  Divide  this  preparation  into  flat  balls,  flatten  them  down  to  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  diameter,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  the  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified 
butter  until  a  fine  color. 

(674).  GEIMOD  GAENISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Grimod). 

Ten  ounces  of  cooked  cock's-combs  warmed  in  a  little  dry  Madeira  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413).  Twenty  ounces  of  cock's-kidneys  poached  the  same  as  quenelles,  drained  and  thickened  with 
meat  glaze  (No.  401)  and  butter.  Twenty  ounces  of  foies-gras  quenelles,  mixed  in  and  thickened 
with  a  half-glaze  sauce  and  Madeira.  Arrange  all  of  these  in  clusters  around  a  remove,  and  serve 
separately  a  Grimod  sauce  (No.  475). 

(675).  HENEION  GAENISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Henrion). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  six  snipes,  remove  all  the  nerves  and  skin,  pare,  season  them  with  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  saute  them  in  butter  a  few  minutes  before  serving.  Trim  twelve  slices  of  un- 
smoked  red  beef  tongue  into  half  heart-shaped  pieces  the  same  size  as  the  snipe  fillets,  and  heat 
them  in  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira  wine.  Have  twelve  croquettes  made  of 
blanched  chicken  livers,  the  finely  chopped  insides  of  the  snipes,  and  the  meat  cut  from  the 
thighs,  also  some  mushrooms;  the  livers,  thighs,  and  mushrooms  to  be  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of 
an  inch  square;  mix  the  whole  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  and  use  this  preparation  for  making 
round  croquettes  one  and  a  half  inches  wide  by  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  dip  them  in  beaten 
egg,  then  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  nice  color.  Serve  separately  a  financiere  sauce  (No.  464), 
finished  with  the  snipe  carcasses. 


338  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(676).  IMPEEIAL  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  rimpenale), 

Have  a  half  pound  or  eight  whole  truffles  peeled  and  cooked  in  champagne;  eight  escalops  of 
foies-gras,  breaded  a  la  Villeroi,  and  fried;  sixteen  pieces  of  fluted  mushroom  heads  (No.  118) 
cooked  in  butter,  lemon  juice  and  water;  eight  cocks'-combs  and  eight  cocks'-kidneys,  sixteen 
chicken  quenelles  made  with  a  teaspoon  (No.  155).  Arrange  the  foies-gras  at  the  end  of  the  dish 
and  the  remainder  of  the  garnishing  in  clusters  around,  and  cover  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  and  Madeira.  Serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat  a  financiere  sauce  (No.  464). 

(677),  JARDINIERE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Jardiniere). 

The  jardiniere  is  composed  of  whole  roots  and  vegetables,  or  else  cut  into  distinct  pieces,  such 
as  carrots,  turnips,  string  beans,  cauliflower,  small  glazed  onions,  Brussels  sprouts,  asparagus  tops 
or  cucumbers  cut  in  the  shape  of  cloves  of  garlic.  The  carrots  and  turnips  are  to  be  blanched, 
but  not  refreshed,  then  sauted  in  butter  with  a  little  sugar,  and  finished  cooking  in  beef 
broth  (No.  194a),  just  sufficient  so  that  when  the  roots  are  done  the  moistening  .is  reduced  to 
a  glaze.  The  small  onions  to  be  sauted  in  butter  with  a  little  sugar  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze;  the 
string  beans  cut  in  lozenges  and  cooked  first  in  salted  water,  then  refreshed  and  drained  and 
sauted  in  butter.  The  cauliflowers  to  be  cooked  in  water  and  cut  into  small  flowerets,  the  Brussels 
sprouts,  asparagus  tops  and  cucumbers  cooked  in  salted  water,  then  sauted  in  butter.  The  green 
vegetables  should  be  cooked  in  a  copper  vessel,  the  others  in  a  tinned  one.  This  garnishing 
is  usually  arranged  in  clusters  and  served  with  a  separate  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492).  For 
entrees  mix  all  the  vegetables  together  and  add  to  them  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  some  fine 
butter. 

(678).  LIVERS  A  LA  VINOELAS  GARNISHING  (Garniture   de  Poies-Gras  a  la  Vincelas). 

For  this  garnishing  use  fat  duck  or  geese  livers,  weighing  from  a  half  pound  to  a  pound.  Peri- 
gueux  foies-gras  preserved  plain  may  be  substituted  in  case  no  fresh  livers  are  on  hand,  but  when 
the  latter  can  be  procured,  then  blanch  and  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  with  Madeira  stock  (No.  419), 
let  them  get  cold  in  it,  then  cut  them  up  into  quarter  inch  slices,  and  trim  them  either 
round  shaped  or  into  ovals  or  hearts.  In  the  meanwhile  prepare  four  ounces  of  peeled  truffles, 
eight  ounces  of  salt,  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  and  six  ounces  of  cooked  mushrooms,  cut  all  these 
three  into  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  lay  them  in  a  Madeira  sauce  reduced  with  some  good 
white  wine,  and  after  the  preparation  is  cooked,  let  it  get  cold,  and  with  it  cover  one  side  of  the 
livers,  and  over  this  lay  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75) ;  dredge  finely  chopped  pistachios  over 
the  top.  Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  dish  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  lay  the  livers  on  top,  and  cover  the 
whole  with  buttered  paper,  set  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  separately  a 
champagne  sauce  (No.  445). 

(679).  CHICKEN  LIVER  GARNISHING  IN  CASES  OR  OROUSTADES  (Garniture  de  Poies  de 

Volaille  en  Caisses  ou  en  Oroustades.) 

Choose  a  pound  of  very  white,  fine,  and  fat  chicken  livers,  mince  them  well  and  fry  them 
briskly  in  butter,  moisten  with  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414);  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  With  these  prepared  livers  fill  some 
croustades  made  with  puff  paste  fragments,  or  else  oiled  cases  previously  dried  in  the  oven,  gar- 
nishing the  bottoms  with  chicken  and  fine  herb  forcemeat  (No.  75).  Serve  a  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  with  Madeira  separate. 

(680).  MACEDOINE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Mac6doine). 

Cut  into  small  quarter  of  an  inch  squares,  eight  ounces  of  carrots,  selecting  only  the  very  red  part, 
or  else  use  a  round  or  oval  vegetable  spoon,  two  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  have  eight 
ounces  of  string  beans  cut  into  small  lozenges,  also  six  ounces  of  very  tender  turnips,  prepared  ex- 
actly the  same  as  the  carrots:  blanch  these  separately  in  salted  water,  keeping  them  slightly  hard, 
then  lay  them  with  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  sautoire.  and  season  with  salt  and  sugar;  toss  them  for  a 
few  minutes  on  a  brisk  fire  to  dry  well  the  moisture,  then  drain  off  the  butter.  Put  on,  to  reduce, 
two  or  three  gills  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  stir  into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream,  and  finally  a 


339 

few  spoonfuls  of  root  glaze  (No.  403);  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  add  to  it  the  vegetables  already 
cooked,  as  well  as  six  ounces  of  green  peas,  and  six  ounces  of  asparagus  tops,  both  previously 
boiled  in  salted  water.  Finish  the  macedoine  by  incorporating  into  it  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
broken  up  into  small  bits. 

(681).  MARROW  AND  OHIVE8  CANAPES  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Canape's  a  la  Moelle  et 

a  la  Ciboulette), 

Have  sixteen  oval  shaped  bread  croutons,  slit  them  all  around  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the 
edge,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter.  Empty  out  the  centers,  and  garnish  the  insides  with  slices 
of  marrow  previously  plunged  into  boiling  water,  drained,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper;  dredge  over  the  top  some  finely  shred  chives,  and  set  them  for  one  minute  into  a  warm 
oven;  before  serving  cover  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

(682).  MARROW  FRITTERS  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Beignets  de  Moelle). 
Cut  some  beef  marrow  in  thick  slices,  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water,  then  drain  and 
leave  them  to  get  cold.     Dip  each  separate  piece  into  bread-crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg,  and  again 
in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  fine  golden  color  in  very  hot  f rying-fat.     A  separate  sauce-boat  of 
half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  should  be  served  at  the  same  time. 

(683).  MARROW  FRITTERS  WITH  TRUFFLES  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Beignets  de  Moelle 

aux  Truffes). 

Cook  in  white  veloute  stock  (No.  422)  for  ten  minutes,  six  marrow  bones  cut  in  six  inch  lengths; 
let  them  get  cold,  then  take  out  the  inside  marrow.  Prepare  a  half-glaze,  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  jelly,  or  simply  put  a  gelatine  leaf  in  the  half-glaze,  and  to  it  add  some  chopped  truffles;  put  a  little 
of  this  half  glaze  into  the  bottom  of  timbale  molds  (No.  3,  Fig  137)  set  on  top  a  piece  of  the  marrow 
sufficient  to  fill  it  half,  and  over  the  marrow  a  slice  of  truffle,  and  again  a  piece  of  marrow,  so  as  to 
fill  the  mold  to  within  an  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  top;  finish  with  some  of  the  sauce,  then  unmold, 
and  dip  each  one  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry,  or  else  simply  cover  the  marrow  with 
an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  containing  chopped  truffles,  having  it  almost  cold,  then  dip  them 
in  frying  paste  (No.  2,  No.  137),  and  fry  them  a  fine  color;  serve  a  half -glaze  sauce  separate  (No.  413). 

(68*).  MATELOTE  GARNISHINGS  (Garnitures  Matelote). 

These  garnishings  are  composed  of  roe,  milt,  crawfish  tails,  small  glazed  onions,  whole 
mushrooms,  and  even  truffles;  they  are  to  be  dressed  either  in  clusters  or  mixed  together;  if  the 
latter  be  desired,  then  cover  them  with  a  matelote  sauce  (No.  498),  and  if  the  former,  arrange  them 
in  distinct  groups,  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

(685).  MATELOTE  BOURGUIGNOTTE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Matelote  Bourguignotte). 

Eighteen  crawfish  cooked  in  a  court  bouillon  (No.  38).  Eighteen  croutons  of  bread  cut 
into  half  heart-shape  and  fried  in  butter.  Eight  ounces  of  small  mushroom  heads,  eight  ounces 
of  small  onions  blanched,  then  cooked  in  consomme  and  glazed.  Eight  ounces  of  crawfish  tails, 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  bourguignotte  sauce  (No.  437).  Put  into  this  sauce  the  mushrooms,  small 
onions,  and  crawfish  tails;  dress  this  garnishing  around  the  remove,  and  decorate  the  dish  with 
crawfish  and  the  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter. 

(686).  MATELOTE  MARINIERE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Matelote  MariniereX 
This  garnishing  is  to  be  made  with  thirty-six  small  quenelles  of  pike  (No.  90)  seasoned  with 
cayenne  pepper,  thirty-six  cooked  mussels,  after  removing  the  small  black  appendage  found  attached 
to  them,  thirty-six  crawfish  tails,  and  six  ounces  of  minced  truffles.  Mingle  all  these  ingredients  in  a 
sautoire,  and  cover  them  with  a  mariniere  sauce  (No.  497),  reduced  with  a  part  of  the  mussel 
broth.  Add  butter  to  the  sauce  just  before  serving. 

(687).  MATELOTE  NORMANDE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Matelote  Normande). 
To  be  made  with  eighteen  cooked  mussels  out  of  their  shells,  eighteen  medium  sized  blanched 
oysters,  eighteen  pieces  of  milt  a  la  villeroi  (No.  698),  to  be  the  same  size  as  the  oysters;  eighteen 
medium  sized  cooked  mushroom  heads,  eighteen  trussed  crawfish  cooked  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419), 


340  THE    EPICUREAN. 

eighteen  round  crusts  one  inch  in  diameter,  cut  from  the  crusty  part  of  small  rolls,  buttered  and 
colored  in  the  oven.  Mix  in  a  sautoire  with  some  Normande  sauce  (No.  509),  the  mussels,  oysters, 
and  mushroom  heads,  then  dress  them  around  a  remove,  and  garnish  the  outside  edge  with  the 
croutons,  the  crawfish,  and  the  milt  a  laVilleroi  (No.  698). 

(688).  MILT  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Laitances), 

Select  very  fresh  milts,  and  suppress  all  the  sanguineous  parts;  soak  them  for  one  hour, 
then  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  some  water,  salt,  vinegar,  and  parsley.  Boil  up  the  liquid, 
and  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  keep  it  thus  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  in  order  to 
have  them  poached.  They  are  to  be  served  either  with  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451),  or  else  milt 
a  la  Villeroi  (No.  698), 

(689).    MIRMIDONS    WITH  PARMESAN    GARNISHING    (Garniture    de    Mirmidons    au    Par- 
mesan). 

A  mirmidon  is  a  small  canelon.  They  are  made  thin  and  short  and  are  filled  with  a  special 
preparation.  Pound  two  raw  chicken  fillets  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  fat  livers;  two  or 
three  raw  peeled  truffles,  and  two  raw  egg-yolks;  season  this  forcemeat  and  press  it  through  a 
sieve.  Prepare  a  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  roll  it  out  into  a  thin,  long,  three  inch  wide  band,  and 
cut  this  band  transversely  into  three  inch  length  pieces;  plunge  them  inte  boiling,  salted  water,  and 
let  them  cook  for  eight  minutes,  then  remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  to  keep  the 
water  bubbling  for  two  minutes  longer;  the  paste  should  now  be  done.  Drain  the  pieces  with  a 
skimmer,  and  set  them  in  a  vessel  containing  tepid,  salted  water,  then  lift  them  out  one  by  one 
to  wipe  dry,  and  spread  on  the  table;  cover  each  separate  piece  with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  force- 
meat, rolled  so  that  the  edges  of  the  paste  meet,  and  arrange  these  mirmidons  on  the  bottom  of  a 
buttered  sautoire  (Fig.  130),  keeping  them  close  together,  the  edges  of  paste  underneath;  moisten  to 
their  heighth  with  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  reduced  with  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine;  boil  the  sauce,  cover  the  saucepan  and  set  it  on  a  very  slow  fire  to  allow 
the  mirmidons  to  simmer  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  drain,  trim  the  ends  nicely,  then  range 
them  in  layers  in  a  vegetable  dish,  dusting  over  each  layer  with  grated  parmesan,  and  besprink- 
ling the  top  with  a  little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

(690).  MORIL  AND  GIEOLLE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Morilles  ou  de  Girdles). 

Wash  in  several  waters  one  pound  of  morils;  cut  off  half  of  their  stalks,  then  throw 
them  into  boiling  water,  and  leave  them  to  soak  awhile;  change  the  water,  then  drain  them  by 
lifting  them  up  with  the  hand  and  laying  them  on  a  sieve,  afterward  saute  them  in  four  ounces  of 
butter,  adding  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  let  them  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Moisten  them  with  one  pint 
of  consomme  (No  189),  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  a  bay  leaf;  boil  the 
whole  for  twenty  minutes,  then  suppress  the  parsley  and  drain  off  the  broth;  now  add  some  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414),  and  fine  herbs,  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  sauce,  to  which  add  the 
morils  and  serve  very  hot. 

Girolle. — Cut  off  the  stalks  from  two  pounds  of  girolles  and  then  divide  them  into  two  or  four 
pieces,  according  to  their  size.  Wash  well  in  several  waters,  then  drain.  Heat  four  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  sautoire,  adding  the  girolles  and  some  lemon  juice;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  bouillon  (No. 
187,)  season  with  salt  and  let  boil  slowly  for  a  few  moments,  then  drain  and  put  them  back  into 
the  saucepan.  Reduce  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  the  clear  part  of  the  stock,  add  it 
to  the  girolles  just  when  serving  and  finish  the  sauce  with  a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  and  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(691).    MOUSSERON    GARNISHING,    PRINCESS    SAUCE    (Garniture     de    Mousserons,    Sauce 

Princesse). 

An  eatable  mushroom  growing  under  moss,  found  in  woods.  Cook  two  pounds  of  mousserons 
under  a  cover,  by  placing  them  on  a  buttered  dish,  and  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  two  gills 
of  white  wine;  cover  with  a  bell  cover,  begin  to  cook  on  the  fire,  then  finish  for  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven;  drain  and  place  the  liquid  in  a  pint  of  princess  sauce  (No.  528),  reduce  and  when 
done  to  perfection,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  and  two  ounces  of  butter. 
Roll  the  mousserons  in  the  sautoire  and  serve. 


341 

(692).  MUSEBOOMS  A  LA  DELSAET  GABNISHING  (Garniture  de  Champignons  a  la  Delsart). 

Select  twelve  fine,  large  mushrooms,  cut  off  the  stalks  and  empty  them  partly  with  a  vegetable 
spoon,  being  careful  not  to  break  them,  then  throw  them  gently  into  fresh  acidulated  water. 
Chop  up  finely  two  ounces  of  the  mushroom  parings,  one  ounce  of  onions,  one  clove  of  crushed  garlic, 
and  one  teaspoonf  ul  of  chopped  parsley,  heat  well  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  onions 
to  fry  colorless,  then  the  garlic,  and  parsley,  and  finally  the  mushroom  parings  after  these  have 
reduced  their  moisture,  put  in  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  stirring  in  four  raw  egg-yolks,  drain  the  mushrooms,  and  fill  them  with 
this  preparation,  having  it  slightly  bomb-shaped  on  top,  bestrew  with  bread-raspings,  and  pour 
over  a  little  butter.  Lay  them  on  a  baking-tin  covered  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  place  this  in  a  hot 
oven  to  brown  the  forcemeat,  and  serve  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  Madeira. 

(693).  MUSSELS  BOKDELAISE  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Monies  a  la  Bordelaise). 

Poached  mussels  are  frequently  used  with  other  garnishings  but  they  can  also  be  served  alone 
around  small  fish. 

For  Mussels  Bordelaise. — Procure  five  dozen  mussels,  clean  them  well,  washing  them  ia 
several  waters  and  then  cook  them  with  some  mignonette,  parsley,  and  sliced  onions,  but  no  salt, 
adding  a  little  water.  Set  them  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  the  mussels  are  opened,  take  them  out 
of  their  shells,  remove  the  black  appendage,  drain,  and  roll  them  in  a  Bordelaise  sauce  with  marrow 
(No.  436);  do  not  let  them  come  to  a  boil,  and  use  them  for  a  garnishing. 

(694).  NOISETTES  OP  VEAL  AND  LAMBS'  FEIES  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Noisettes  de 

Veau  et  d'Animelles  d'Agneau). 

Noisettes  of  Veal,  are  found  in  the  shoulder  of  either  veal  or  lamb;  soak  and  blanch  them, 
then  cook  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork  and  some  good  mirepoix  stock  (No. 
419),  let  them  get  cold  in  this,  and  then  pare  them  by  removing  all  the  fat  parts;  mix  them  in  with 
a  fleurette  sauce. 

Fleurette  Sauce  is  made  with  bechamel  (No.  409)  reduced  with  cream,  into  which  mix  finely 
cut  up  chives  and  finished  at  the  last  moment  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

For  tlie  Lamb's  Fries  Garnishing. — Split  them  in  two  lengthwise,  take  them  out  of  their 
skin  season  each  piece  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour,  and  afterward  dip  them  in 
beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  fine  color.  Garnish  with  the  veal  noisettes  the  sides 
of  a  remove,  and  at  the  ends  set  the  lamb's  fries. 

(695).  OLIVES  PLAIN  OB  STUPFED  GABNISHING  (Garniture  d'Olives  Simples  ou  Farcies). 

Spanish  olives  are  the  best  for  garnishing;  select  the  largest,  and  stone  them  with  the  assis- 
tance of  a  small  knife,  cutting  the  meat  around  in  spirals,  and  then  removing  the  stone. 
Throw  them  as  quickly  as  they  are  done  into  cold  water;  heat  this  up  without  boiling  it;  refresh 
them,  and  add  them  to  any  desired  hot  sauce,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  boil  and  break. 

For  Stuffed  Olives. — They  must  be  first  blanched,  and  allowed  to  cool;  they  can  either  be 
stuffed  with  a  plain  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  or  with  a  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  mingled  with 
a  little  raw  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62),  then  thrown  immediately  into  a  saucepan  containing 
hot  broth,  and  leave  them  in  until  the  forcemeat  is  well  poached;  they  are  then  to  be  added  to  any 
sauce  they  are  required  to  accompany. 

(696).  OEONGES  1  LA  LIVOUENAISE  GABNISHING  (Garniture  d'Oronges  a  la  Livournaise), 

Have  sixteen  medium  sized  oronges,  suppress  the  stalks,  empty  out  half  of  the  inside  of  the 
oronges  with  a  vegetable  spoon  and  chop  up  the  stalks  and  insides  just  removed;  fry  this  in  two 
ounces  of  butter  until  all  the  moisture  is  evaporated  and  it  is  perfectly  dry,  then  add  the  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup.  Let  this  now  get  cold,  and  then  add 
to  it  half  its  quantity  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89),  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  season  well.  Mix  together  and  fill  the  oronges  with 
this  preparation,  giving  them  a  dome-shape.  Lay  them  on  a  dish  garnished  with  a  few  bardes  of 
fat  pork  and  sprinkle  over  some  bread  raspings  and  grated  parmesan  cheese;  pour  over  a  little 
good  sweet  oil,  a  little  broth,  and  place  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  A  half- 
glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  accompanies  this  garnishing. 


342  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(697).  OYSTER  GARNISHING  1  LA  TYKOPF  (Garniture  d'Huitres  a  la  Tykopf). 
First  blanch  thirty-six  small  oysters,  then  drain  and  wipe  them  on  a  napkin,  cut  away  the 
muscles  or  hard  parts  and  fill  in  this  space  with  a  crab  croquette  preparation  (No.  879),  cover  the 
oysters  with  a  light  coating  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  with  finely  chopped  truffles  added,  and 
leave  them  in  till  they  are  very  cold,  then  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  beaten  eggs  and  fry  them 
in  clarified  butter. 

(698).  OYSTERS,  MUSSELS  OK  MILTS  A  LA  YILLEKOI  GARNISHING  (Garniture  d'Huitres  de 

Moules  ou  de  Laitances  a  la  Villeroi). 

Blanch,  drain  and  wipe  thirty-six  oysters;  reduce  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  with  the 
oyster  liquor,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  let  get  cold  and  coat  the  oysters  with 
it,  leave  them  till  very  cold,  and  then  dip  them  into  eggs  and  fry  them  a  fine  golden  color.  For 
mussels  proceed  the  same,  only  first  removing  the  black  piece  adhering  to  them;  milts  are  to  be 
cooked  also  the  same. 

(699).  OYSTER  GARNISHING  POR  SHELLS  AND  FOR  PATTIES  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Garniture 
d'Huitres  pour  Coquilles  et  pour  Bouche'es  aux  Champignons). 

The  first  step  to  take  is  to  open  the  oysters,  detach  them  from  their  shells,  and  poach  them  in 
their  own  juice,  after  this  is  done,  drain  them  off.  They  can  be  bread-crumbed  and  baked  in  their 
own  shells  if  needed  whole,  or  in  small  scollop  shells  if  they  are  in  salpicon  (No.  165),  or  else  they 
are  used  to  garnish  bouchees.  To  prepare  them  for  the  patties  proceed  as  follows:  Blanch  thirty-two 
medium  sized  oysters  in  their  own  juice  in  a  saucepan,  drain  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Fry  a 
finely  chopped  shallot  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  moisten  with  the  oyster  juice,  add  a  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduce  and  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  cut  the 
oysters  into  small  squares  and  fry  them  in  two  ounces  of  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  add  them  to 
the  prepared  bechamel,  also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms. 

(700).  PALATE  OP  BEEF  GARNISHING  A  LA  MANCELLE    IN  CASES    (Garniture  de  Palais  de 

Bceuf  a  la  Mancelle    en  Caisses). 

After  the  palates  of  beef  (No.  1326)  are  cooked,  put  them  under  a  weight  to  get  cold,  then  cut 
out  of  them  round  pieces  an  inch  in  diameter,  sufficient  to  have  a  pound.  Set  these  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  and  four  ounces  of  truffles  both  sliced  and  of  the  same 
diameter  as  the  palates,  add  six  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  one  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  one  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401).  With  this  preparation  fill  some 
small  china  cases,  or  else  oiled  paper  ones  dried  in  the  oven,  dredge  bread-crumbs  over  the  tops, 
also  grated  parmesan  cheese,  pour  on  a  little  melted  butter  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

(701).  POLPETTE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Polpettes). 

Pare  well  one  pound  of  lean,  raw  mutton,  then  chop  it  up  fine,  also  half  a  pound  of  pork  fat  or 
calf's  udder.  Mix  well  the  mutton  and  udder  together,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and 
add  three  whole  eggs,  then  divide  this  into  eighteen  parts  and  with  them  make  balls,  roll  them 
in  flour,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  roll  them  once  more  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  neatly  and  fry 
them  in  clarified  butter.  Range  them  nicely  around  a  remove. 

(702),  PRAWNS,  CRAWFISH,  CRABS  OR  LOBSTERS  WITH  RAW  FINE  HERBS  GARNISHING 
(Garniture  de  Orevettes,  Ecrevisses,  Crabes  ou  Homards  aux  Fines  Herbes  Orues). 

After  the  prawns  are  cooked,  refresh  and  shell  them;  leave  them  whole  and  saute  them  in 
butter,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  raw  fine  herbs,  also  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Crawfish  tails 
may  be  left  whole.  For  crabs,  take  out  the  largest  piece,  from  the  crab,  and  for  lobsters  cut  them 
in  escalops  or  slices,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  finish  them  the  same  as  for  the 
above. 

(703).  PROVENQAL  GARNISHING  (Garniture  a  la  Provengale). 

Prepare  for  this  garnishing  eighteen  small  saiffed  tomatoes  a  la  Provencal  (No.  2835),  eighteen 
stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  692),  adding  to  them  a  bit  of  garlic,  and  eighteen  croquettes,  made  with 
half  a  pound  of  minced  onions  blanched  for  ten  minutes  in  plenty  of  water,  then  fried  colorless  in 


343 

butter  with  their  same  weight  of  minced  cooked  artichoke  bottoms,  add  an  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407),  and  when  cold  make  small  croquettes  with  this  preparation,  letting  them  be  round  and  flat; 
bread-crumb  and  then  dip  them  in  egg,  bread-crumb  again  and  fry  them  a  fine  color.  Garnish 
around  the  remove,  with  these,  alternating  the  tomatoes,  the  stuffed  mushrooms,  and  the 
croquettes. 

(704).  PUREE  OE  AETICHOKE  BOTTOMS  AND  JEKUSALEM  ARTICHOKES  (Purge  de  Ponds 

d'Artichauts  et  de  Topinambours). 

Cut  out  two  pounds  of  artichoke  bottoms,  and  blanch  them  in  salted  water,  drain  and  mince 
up  fine;  lay  this  into  four  ounces  of  butter,  but  do  not  let  color,  then  drain  off  the  butter,  and 
moisten  with  a  quart  of  broth  (No.  189);  let  cook  slowly  until  the  bottoms  are  done,  and  when  the 
moisture  is  reduced,  add  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  reduce  the  preparation  once 
more,  but  without  ceasing  to  stir  for  an  instant  until  it  becomes  consistent.  Season,  rub  through  a 
sieve  and  put  this  puree  into  a  saucepan  to  heat  while  stirring,  but  it  must  not  boil.  Just  when 
ready  to  serve  add  four  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Prepare  the  Jerusalem  artichokes  exactly  the  same, 
the  only  difference  being  that  they  are  peeled  and  minced  raw  before  frying  them  in  butter,  then 
finish  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  artichoke  bottoms;  all  purees  for  garnishing,  should  be  of  such 
Consistency  as  not  to  spread. 

(705).  PUKEE  OF  ASPARAGUS  (Purge  d'Asperges). 

Break  off  the  tender  ends  of  sufficient  green  asparagus  to  obtain  a  pound  of  tops.  Blanch 
these  in  boiling,  salted  water  in  a  copper  basin,  then  drain  them  well  and  fry  in  a  saucepan 
with  four  ounces  of  butter.  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  189),  and  let  them  cook  until  this  is 
entirely  reduced,  then  pound  the  asparagus  in  a  mortar,  adding  a  pint  of  very  thick  bechamel 
sauce  (No. 409),  season  with  salt  and  sugar,  reduce  the  whole,  press  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  return 
the  puree  to  the  saucepan,  to  heat  without  boiling;  stir  in  at  the  last  moment  two  ounces  of  fine 
butter. 

(706).  PUKEE  OE  BEANS  BRETONNE  (Purge  de  Haricots  Bretonne). 

Mince  half  a  pound  of  onions;  set  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf,  garlic,  thyme  and  salt;  let  fry  slowly,  browning  the  onions 
slightly.  Let  one  pound  of  white  beans  soak  for  twelve  hours,  then  boil  them  with  two  ounces 
of  butter  added,  and  when  nearly  done,  drain  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  the  onions,  sup- 
pressing the  parsley;  add  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  two  gills  of  double  cream,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chicken  glaze  (No.  398);  press  through  a  tammy  (No.  170)  and  add  two  ounces 
of  butter  at  the  very  last  moment. 

(707),  PUKEE  OF  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  (Purge  de  Cnoux  de  Bruxelles). 

Blanch  in  boiling  salted  water  in  an  untinned  vessel,  two  pounds  of  well  cleaned  Brussels 
sprouts;  drain  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  with  one  quart  of  broth  (No.  189),  two  ounces  of 
butter,  some  salt  and  sugar;  boil  slowly  until  done  and  the  moisture  entirely  reduced,  then  mash 
them  and  press  them  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  puree  back  into  the  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  either 
veloute  (No.  415),  or  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401);  heat  it 
well  and  finish  with  two  ounces  of  fine  butter  just  when  serving. 

(708).  PUREE  OF  MILAN  OR  SAVOY  CABBAGE  (Purge  de  Choux  de  Milan  ou  de  Savoie). 

Divide  a  cabbage  into  four  parts;  remove  the  core,  then  blanch,  drain,  refresh  and  shred  it 
finely;  fry  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  add  four  ounces  of 
minced  mushrooms,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  some  salt  to  season,  then  the  cabbage, 
one  quart  of  broth  (No.  194a),  and  two  ounces  of  butter;  let  simmer  until  done  to  perfection,  and 
when  the  liquid  is  entirely  reduced,  add  two  pints  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  press  through  a 
sieve,  and  keep  it  very  warm  until  serving;  then  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(709).  PUREE  OF  CARROTS  (Purge  de  Carottes). 

Made  with  two  pounds  of  the  red  part  of  minced  carrots;  blanch  and  then  finish  cooking  them 
in  four  ounces  of  butter  without  browning;  moisten  with  a  quart  of  veloute  stock  (No.  422),  season 
with  salt  and  a  little  sugar,  and  let  cook  slowly  until  the  carrots  are  tender,  and  the  broth  reduced. 


344 

In  case  they  should  not  be  sufficiently  moistened,  add  a  little  more  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  then  pound 
the  whole  in  a  mortar;  press  them  through  a  sieve,  and  return  this  pure"e  to  the  saucepan  with  a  pint 
of  thick  bechamel  (No.  409);  stir  briskly,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  two  ounces  of  fine 
butter. 

(710).  PUEEE  OF  OAULIFLOWEE  OE  SEA-KALE  (Purge  de  Choux-fleurs  ou  de  Ohoux  de  Her). 

Out  a  cauliflower  weighing  two  pounds  into  four  parts,  clean  well,  and  set  on  to  cook  in  a 
tinned  vessel  with  salted  water  and  two  ounces  of  butter;  when  done,  drain,  and  put  the  pieces 
into  the  saucepan  to  finish  cooking  with  one  quart  of  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  four  ounces  of  bread- 
crumbs, salt  and  sugar,  reduce  till  dry,  then  mash  well  the  cauliflower,  adding  half  a  quart  of 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  press  through  a  sieve  and  keep  the  puree  warm,  stirring  in  two  ounces 
of  butter  just  before  serving. 

Sea-kale  is  to  be  prepared  exactly  the  same. 

(711).  PUEEE  OF  OELEEY,  OELEEY  KNOBS  AND  OAEDOONS  (Purge  de  Cgleri  Celeris-raves  et 

Gardens). 

For  Celery. — Blanch  two  pounds  of  white  celery  stalks,  after  washing  and  scraping  them, 
drain  and  mince  them  up.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  when  warm,  add  the 
minced  celery  and  let  fry  without  coloring,  then  moisten  with  a  quart  of  stock  (No.  189), 
seasoning  with  salt  and  sugar,  cook  and  reduce  this  to  nothing,  then  pound  and  press  it  through 
a  sieve,  heat  it  once  more,  add  to  it  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  lastly  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter. 

For  the  Celery  Knobs. — Have  two  pounds  of  celery  knobs,  cut  each  in  four  pieces,  after  peeling 
them;  blanch  them  in  hot  water,  drain,  return  them  to  the  saucepan  with  salt,  sugar  and  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  reduce  till  dry,  pound  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  add  a  gill  of  allemande  (No. 
407),  and  just  before  serving,  stir  in  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

Cardoom. — Mince  some  cooked  cardoons;  reduce  a  bechamel  (No.  409)  with  meat  glaze  (No. 
401),  add  the  cardoons  and  reduce  the  whole  together  for  twelve  minutes;  season  with  salt  and  sugar; 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve  and  return  the  pulp  to  the  saucepan  to  heat  without  boiling  and  finish 
at  the  last  moment  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

(712).  PUEEE  OF  CHESTNUTS  (Purge  de  Marrons). 

Peel  one  pound  of  chestnuts,  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  so  as  to  remove  the  inner  skin,  then 
lay  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  moisten  them  to  their  height  with  white  broth  (No.  189),  adding  a  stalk 
of  celery.  Cook  them  with  the  lid  on  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  soft,  and  the  broth  entirely 
reduced,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar; 
pass  this  pur6e  through  a  hair  or  tinned  brass  sieve  (iron  sieve  should  not  be  used  for  passing 
purges)  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  heat  without  ceasing  to  stir,  but  at  the  same  time  watch- 
ing that  it  does  not  boil,  beat  in  a  little  veloute  (No.  415)  and  cream. 

(713).  PUEEE  OF  CHICKEN  (Purge  de  Volaille). 

Cut  off  two  pounds  of  meat  from  a  cooked  chicken,  suppress  all  the  skin  and  nerves,  and  pound 
the  remainder  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  two-thirds  of  its  quantity  of  very  consistent  boiled  rice. 
Strain  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  and  set  this  puree  in  a  saucepan,  season,  add  to  it  two  spoon- 
fuls of  good,  well  reduced  and  thick  veloute  (No.  415),  and  heat  it  without  allowing  it  to  boil, 
and  without  ceasing  to  stir;  incorporate  into  it  at  the  last  moment  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

(714).  PUEEE  OF  OUOUMBEES  (Purge  de  Ooncombres). 

Peel  the  cucumbers  and  suppress  the  seeds;  weigh  two  pounds  of  them  after  they  are  pared, 
blanch  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  boiling,  salted  water,  drain  well,  mince  and  fry  them  in  four 
ounces  of  butter,  then  moisten  with  sufficient  stock  (No.  189),  to  cover,  and  let  them  cook 
and  reduce  until  all  the  broth  is  absorbed.  Pound  them  in  a  mortar  adding  a  pint  of  very  thick 
be'chamel  (No.  409),  press  through  the  sieve  and  heat  the  puree,  adding  two  ounces  of  fine  butter 
just  before  serving. 


GARISJTSHING-S.  345 

(715).  PUEEE  OP  PLAGEOLET,  LIMA  OE  BEOAD  BEANS  (Purge  de  Haricots  Flageolets  on  de  Lima, 

Feves  de  Marais). 

Wash  two  pounds  of  flageolet  beans,  and  then  cook  them  in  six  quarts  of  salted  water  to  which 
has  been  previously  added  two  ounces  of  butter;  when  done,  drain  and  pound  the  beans  in  the 
mortar,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  very  thick  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  401);  season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  red  pepper,  pass  the 
whole  through  a  sieve,  and  heat  it  again  without  boiling.  Should  the  puree  be  too  thick,  add  a 
little  cream,  and  just  before  serving,  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

Lima  beans,  broad  beans  and  fresh  white  beans,  are  to  be  prepared  and  finished  exactly  the  same. 

(716).  PUEEE  OF  GAME  (Purge  de  Gibier). 

Remove  one  pound  of  cooked  meat  from  either  partridge,  snipe,  hare,  grouse  or  wild  duck 
suppress  all  the  skin  and  nerves,  and  pound  the  rest  with  a  piece  of  butter,  then  rub  it  through  a 
sieve.  Put  this  pulp  into  a  saucepan,  season  it  with  salt,  red  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  mix  in  half 
a  pint  of  reduced  and  very  thick  veloute  (No.  415),  if  for  white  game,  or  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414) 
for  brown  game;  heat  it  without  ceasing  to  stir  and  without  letting  it  boil,  and  just  when  ready  to 
serve,  add  two  ounces  of  fine  butter.  Should  a  very  thick  puree  be  required,  then  pound  the 
meats  with  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  boiled  and  very  consistent  rice,  or  else  with  some  cooked 
game  forcemeat  (No.  62). 

(717).  PUEEE  OF  GAELIC  (Purge  d'Ail), 

Peel  half  a  pound  of  garlic;  cook  it  in  plenty  of  salted  water  in  a  covered  vessel,  then 
drain  and  wipe  off  the  moisture.  Fry  it  for  a  few  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire  in  a  pan,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  take  it  off  and  pound  it;  mix  in  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good,  consistent  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  set  this  puree  into  a  saucepan;  heat  it  well 
without  boiling;  just  before  serving  stir  in  apiece  of  butter  and  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  401). 

(718).  PUEEE  OF  KOHL-EABIS  (Purge  de  Choux-EavesX 

Cut  these  vegetables  in  four,  peel  and  blanch  them  for  ten  minutes,  and  finish  cooking  them 
in  one  quart  of  broth  (No.  189);  season  with  salt,  and  when  the  moistening  is  reduced,  pound  the 
kohl-rabis,  adding  to  the  pulp  two  pints  of  reduced  veloute  (No.  415),  and  two  gills  of  cream; 
press  well  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  and  just  when  serving  stir  in  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(719).  PUEEE  OF  LENTILS  WITH  OEEAM  (Purge  de  Lentilles  a  la  Creme). 
Pick  over  and  wash  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lentils;  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of 
broth  (No.  194a),  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  two  ounces  of  blanched 
salt  pork,  one  onion  with  a  clove  in  it,  and  a  few  sliced  carrots;  when  done,  remove  the  pork, 
parsley,  and  carrots,  and  drain  the  lentils;  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg, 
and  dilute  the  pulp  with  a  gill  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  and  cream,  and  add  an  ounce  of  butter  when 
ready  to  serve. 

(720).  PUEEE  OF  LETTUCE  (Purge  de  Laitues). 

Clean  and  remove  the  greenest  leaves,  and  use  the  whitest  of  six  lettuce  heads  (having  two 
pounds  after  this  is  accomplished);  blanch  them  in  boiling  salted  water,  then  drain,  and  press  them 
well  to  extract  all  the  liquid;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  broth  (No.  194a),  some 
salt  and  sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs;  let  the  lettuce  cook,  reduce  the  liquid  entirely, 
then  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  adding  one  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  one  tablespoonful  of  meat 
glaze  (No.  401).  Pass  all  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  heat  the  puree  and  just  when  prepared  to 
serve,  incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(721).  PUEEE  OF  LOBSTEE  (Purge  de  Homard). 

Have  two  pounds  of  cooked  lobster  meat;  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  four  ounces  of  butter, 
season  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  stirring  into  the  pulp  six  gills  of  well 
reduced  bechamel  (No.  409),  heat  it  well,  and  just  when  about  serving  beat  in  two  ounces  of  fine 
lobster  butter  (No.  580) ;  color  it  a  pale  red. 


346  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(722).  PUEEE  OF  CULTIVATED  AND  WILD  MUSHKOOMS  AND  MOEILS  (Purge  de 
Champignons  Oultivgs  et  de  Prairies  et  de  Morilles). 

For  the  Cultivated  Mushroom  Puree. — Peel  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  wash  them  properly,  and 
mince  them  finely,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter,  let  them  cook 
on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  nearly  done,  moisten  them  with  two  gills  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Pound  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  return  them  to  the  saucepan  to  heat 
without  boiling,  and  finish  with  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

Puree  of  Wild  Mushrooms. — Peel  a  pound  of  wild  mushrooms,  cut  them  up  into  squares  and 
cook  them  in  water,  butter  and  lemon  juice,  in  a  saucepan  closed  hermetically;  drain  and  pound  to 
convert  them  to  a  paste,  mixing  in  half  their  quantity  of  poached  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89). 
Add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  very  thick  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  season  with  salt  and  sugar;  press 
through  a  tammy,  set  the  puree  into  a  saucepan,  and  heat  it  well  without  boiling,  and  before 
serving  stir  in  a  little  fine  butter,  and  some  cream  should  the  puree  be  too  thick. 

For  the  Morils. — Have  two  pounds  of  them;  cut  off  the  stalks  and  divide  them  in  two;  wash 
them  in  tepid  water  changing  it  several  times,  and  when  clean,  drain,  and  mince  them  well.  Wash 
them  again  in  tepid  water,  and  drain  once  more.  Heat  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sautoire,  add 
the  morils  with  lemon  juice,  and  moisten  with  one  pint  of  broth  (No.  189),  salt,  and 
pepper;  let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  drain  and  pour  off  the  top  of  the  broth.  Pound  the  morils, 
moisten  them  with  this  broth,  adding  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  a  spoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No. 
401),  and  heat  it  well  without  boiling,  finishing  with  two  ounces  of  butter. 

(723).  PUEEE  OF  WHITE  ONIONS  SOUBISE  AND  PUEEE  OF  ONIONS,  BEOWN  (Purge  d'Oignons 

Blancs  Soubise  et  Purge  d'Oignons  Brune). 

For  the  first  puree,  mince  a  pound  and  a  half  of  white  onions,  plunge  them  into  boiling,  salted 
water  and  let  them  parboil  for  ten  minutes,  drain  them  well  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  over  a 
slow  fire  to  allow  the  moisture  to  evaporate,  add  a  little  good  stock  and  let  reduce  till  dry,  then 
pour  in  a  pint  of  well  thickened  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  reduce  the  preparation  over  a  brisk  fire 
until  it  becomes  consistent.  Season  with  salt  and  sugar,  pass  through  a  sieve  and  return  it  to  the 
saucepan  and  heat  the  puree  without  letting  it  boil,  adding  a  little  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 

To  make  the  brown  puree,  abstain  from  parboiling  the  onions,  but  instead,  fry  them  very 
slowly  until  they  assume  a  fine  color,  then  mingle  in  a  little  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  reduce  till 
consistent;  strain  the  puree,  heat  it  once  more  and  add  to  it  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  400). 

(724).  PUEEE  OF  SPLIT  PEAS  (Purge  de  Pois  Sees). 

Wash  well  and  drain  one  pound  of  dry  split  peas,  set  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of 
veloute  stock  (No.  422),  seasoning  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  adding  half  a  pound  of  onions,  a  bunch 
of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Cook  slowly,  suppress  the  parsley, 
then  drain  and  pound  the  peas  in  a  mortar  with  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  added,  press  the 
whole  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  heat  it  well  again,  and  just  before  serving  incorporate  into  the 
puree  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

(725).  PUEEE  OF  POTATOES  (Purge  de  Pommes  de  Terre). 

Peel  and  wash  two  pounds  of  medium  sized  potatoes,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover,  and  a  little  salt,  let  them  boil  till  soft,  then  drain  off  the  water  and  cover  them 
with  a  wet  cloth,  set  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  and  put  them  into  a  slack  oven  for  twelve  minutes  to 
steam.  (They  may  be  cooked  by  steam  for  half  an  hour,  which  is  always  preferable  to  boiling  in 
water.)  Rub  them  either  through  a  sieve  or  pass  them  through  the  machine  (Fig.  99a),  and  put 
this  puree  back  into  the  saucepan;  season,  add  a  little  sugar,  then  heat  it  up  without  boiling, 
stirring  in  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

(726).  PUEEE  OF  SWEET  POTATOES  (Purge  de  Patates). 

Suppress  the  ends  of  a  pound  and  a  half  of  small  sweet  potatoes,  peel  and  cut  them  into 
pieces  and  fry  them  in  some  butter,  moisten  them  to  their  height  with  stock  (No.  189),  and 
when  the  potatoes  are  done  and  the  moistening  reduced,  pound  them  in  the  mortar,  seasoning  with 
salt  and  nutmeg,  and  adding  a  gill  of  cream.  Pass  this  pure'e  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  heat  it 
up  well,  and  before  serving,  stir  in  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 


347 

(727).  PUREE  OP  PUMPKIN  (Purge  de  Courge), 

Peel  and  cut  a  pound  of  pumpkin  into  three-quarter  inch  squares;  fry  them  in  four  ounces  of 
butter,  then  moisten  them  to  their  height  with  some  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  salt  and  sugar,  and 
when  thoroughly  done  and  reduced,  mash  them  well  with  half  a  pint  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407), 
pass  through  a  sieve,  return  to  the  saucepan,  heat  well,  and  just  before  serving,  stir  in  two  ounces 
of  fine  butter. 

(728).  PUREE  OF  SOREEL  (Purge  d'Oseille). 

Pick  and  clean  well  one  pound  of  sorrel  leaves,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  gill  of 
water  and  some  salt;  dissolve  while  stirring  with  a  spoon,  and  then  pour  it  into  a  colander  so  as  to 
drain  it  properly;  now  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Prepare  a  little  blond  roux  (No.  163)  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  the  same  of  flour,  add  to  it  the  sorrel,  and  let  it  cook  in  this  for  a  few  moments 
without  ceasing  to  <stir;  moisten  with  a  little  good  gravy;  let  the  puree  reduce,  and  just  when 
ready  to  serve,  mix  in  a  little  fine  butter  and  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 

(729).  PUREE  OF  SPINACH  OR  OF  OHIOOORY  (Purge  d'Epinards  ou  de  Ohicorge). 

Pick  and  wash  the  spinach  leaves  until  very  clean,  having  two  pounds  after  this  is  done;  cook 
them  in  boiling,  salted  water,  and  when  they  crush  easily  between  the  fingers,  drain,  refresh  and 
drain  them  once  more  by  pressing  them  well  so  as  to  extract  all  the  water.  Pound  them 
thoroughly  in  a  mortar,  set  them  in  a  saucepan  to  heat,  and  season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  and  sugar; 
stir  in  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  two  spoonfuls  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  strain  through 
a  fine  sieve;  return  them  to  the  saucepan  to  heat  well  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate 
into  the  puree  four  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

The  chiccory  is  to  be  prepared  exactly  the  same  as  the  spinach. 

(730).  PUREE  OF  TOMATOES  (Puree  de  Tomates). 

Cut  in  halves  and  press  well,  half  a  pound  of  tomatoes;  fry  two  ounces  of  minced  onions  in  two 
ounces  of  butter  without  browning,  then  add  the  tomatoes,  and  cook  till  done,  drain  them  well  on 
a  hair  sieve,  press  them  through,  and  put  this  puree  into  a  saucepan  to  heat  again,  stirring  in 
three  ounces  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579).  Just  before  serving  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

(731).  PUREE  OF  TRUFFLES  AND  PUREE  OF  TRUFFLES  WITH  RICE  (Pure*e  de  truffes  et 

Puree  de  Truffes  au  Riz). 

Peel  a  few  good,  raw  truffles,  half  a  pound  in  all;  put  the  peelings  into  a  saucepan  with  some 
Madeira  wine,  cook  them  for  a  few  minutes  to  extract  the  essence,  then  strain.  Grate  the  truffles 
and  set  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  let  them  cook  for  five  minutes, 
adding  four  ounces  of  poached  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Pound  and  rub  the  whole  through  a 
sieve;  reduce  the  truffle  essence  with  half  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  incorporating  into 
it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  and  when  sufficiently  succulent  and  thick, 
pour  it  into  the  puree,  heat  this  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  remove  it  from  the  fire  when  ready 
to  serve  and  stir  in  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

Puree  of  Truffles  with  Rice.—  Mince  half  a  pound  of  cooked  truffles,  and  then  pound  them 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  boiled  in  white  broth  until  very  dry;  season  with  salt,  cayenne, 
and  nutmeg,  and  pound  this  in  a  mortar  adding  one  gill  of  veloute  (No.  415),  and  a  little  cream. 
Press  through  a  tammy  (No.  170),  heat,  and  finish  with  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 

(732).  PUREE  OF  TURNIPS  (Puree  de  Navets). 

Peel,  wash  and  mince  two  pounds  of  turnips;  parboil  them  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling  salted 
water,  drain,  and  fry  them  colorless  in  four  ounces  of  butter;  moisten  with  a  quart  of  white  stock 
(No.  422),  seasoning  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  let  cook  slowly  until  the  moistening  be  entirely  re- 
duced, when  they  are  done  pound  them,  adding  two  pints  of  thick  be'chamel  (No.  409);  pass  through 
a  sieve,  and  warm  the  puree  again,  incorporating  into  it,  two  ounces  of  fine  butter  just  before 
serving. 


348  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(733).  CHICKEN  OK  GAME  QUENELLES  MOLDED  IN  A  SPOON  (Quenelles  de  Volaille  et  de  Qibiei 

Mouses  a  la  Cuillere). 

To  make  these  quenelles  use  either  chicken  or  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89);  prepare  them 

as  described  in  No.  155.     Dress  them  around  a  remove,  and  cover  with  either  a  half-glaze  sauce 

(No.  413)  made  with  the  essence  of  game  or  else  with  velout6  (No.  415).     These  quenelles  can 

also  be  used  by  covering  them  with  Villeroi    sauce  (No.  560),  then  bread-crumb  and  fry  them  to 

a  fine  color. 

(734).  EISH  QUENELLES  MOLDED,  POCKET  CHICKEN  QUENELLES,  CHEESE  QUENELLES 
(Quenelles  de  Poisson  Mouses,  Quenelles  de  Volaille  a  la  Poche,  Quenelles  au  Tromage). 

Use  fish  cream  forcemeat  (No.  76),  finish  exactly  as  quenelles  in  molds  (No.  154),  filling  the 
center  with  a  salpicon  (No.  165)  composed  of  mushrooms,  truffles  or  shrimps  mingled  with  alle- 
mande  sauce  (No.  407),  serving  allemande  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  408)  apart. 

Decorated  Quenelles,  can  be  prepared  in  another  manner;  for  these  see  decorated  quenelles  in 
Elementary  Methods  (No.  154),  using  a  salpicon  as  for  the  above  and  serving  the  sauce 
separately. 

Pocket  Quenelles  or  else  with  a  Cornet.— Mix  half  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  and  half 
fish  cream  forcemeat  (No.  76),  then  make  the  quenelles  which  are  used  generally  for  soups  (No. 
239).  These  can  also  be  made  of  game  (No.  91)  or  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89). 

Cheese  Quenelles. — Pour  into  a  saucepan  three  gills  of  water,  three  ounces  of  butter,  a  little 
salt  and  sugar;  boil,  then  incorporate  seven  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  work  it  well  until  dry,  add 
enough  eggs  to  bring  the  preparation  to  the  consistency  of  forcemeat,  two  ounces  of  grated  par- 
mesan,  and  six  ounces  of  lean  ham  cut  in  small  eighth  of  inch  squares;  roll  this  paste  on  a  floured 
table  into  half  inch  diameter  strings  and  cut  them  into  half  inch  lengths;  roll  each  one  olive 
shaped,  flatten  to  half,  plunge  them  into  boiling  water,  and  poach  for  ten  minutes  without  boiling; 
drain  in  a  colander,  then  on  a  cloth.  Range  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  in  layers,  bestrewing  each 
one  with  grated  parmesan,  and  basting  with  not  too  thick  bechamel  (No.  409),  reduced  with  cream; 
cover  and  dredge  the  top  with  grated  parmesan,  then  bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  slack  oven. 
Serve  this  garnishing  with  a  remove  of  roast  beef  or  mutton  only  leaving  it  in  the  vegetable  dish. 

(735).  GODIVEAU   OP  VEAL,  OF  PIKE,  CHICKEN  OE  GAME   QUENELLES  (Quenelles    de 

Godiveau  de  Veau,  de  Brochet,  de  Volaille  on  de  Gibier), 

Prepare  the  quenelles  either  with  veal  (No.  85)  pike  (No.  83)  or  else  of  chicken  godiveau 
(No.  82),  young  rabbit  or  any  other  game.  Divide  it  into  several  parts,  then  roll  into  strings 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  on  to  a  table  dredged  with  flour  and  cut  them  into  inch 
lengths,  roll  and  lengthen  to  the  shape  of  a  quenelle  an  inch  and  a  half  long.  Poach  in  boiling, 
salted  water.  Veal  godiveau  quenelles  are  covered  with  Madeira  Spanish  sauce  (No.  414),  those 
of  pike  with  bechamel  (No.  409),  those  of  chicken  with  supreme  (No.  547)  and  those  of  game  with 
demi-glaze  (No.  413). 

(736).  KAMISOLLE  GAKNISHING  (Garniture  de  Eamisolles), 

Soak  fourteen  ounces  of  fresh  bread-crumbs  in  some  milk  for  one-half  hour,  then  extract  well 
all  the  liquid.  Remove  the  skin  from  eight  ounces  of  cooked  chicken  meat,  eight  ounces  of 
raw  chicken  livers  and  three  ounces  of  truffles;  all  being  finely  chopped  up.  Fry  in  one  ounce 
of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots  or  onions,  before  they  attain  a  color,  add  to 
them  the  raw  chicken  livers  and  fry  both  together,  then  throw  in  the  chicken  and  truffles,  season- 
ing with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  lastly  add  the  bread-crumbs,  let  it  all  get  very  hot,  then 
cool  it  off  slightly  and  beat  in  six  egg-yolks.  Lay  this  preparation  between  two  pancakes,  cut  into 
desirable  pieces,  dip  them  each  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry.  A  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492)  accompanies  this  garnishing. 

(737).  KIOE  GARNISHING    INDIAN  STYLE  AND  WITH  BUTTER  (Garniture  de  Riz  a  1'Indienne 

et  au  Beurre). 

Rice  makes  an  excellent  garnishing,  and  is  adapted  for  the  use  of  many  meats,  fish,  poultry 
and  game.  Fat  rice  is  served  with  poultry,  and  is  merely  rice  cooked  in  chicken  broth  or  soup 
stock  (No.  194a),  slightly  fat;  it  should  be  rather  more  consistent  than  otherwise,  but  at  the  same 
time  tender  or  soft;  it  is  finished  with  a  little  nutmeg,  and  sometimes  with  a  handful  of  grated 
parmesan  cheese. 


G-ARISITSMINOS.  349 

.Rice,  Indian  Style,  is  served  likewise  as  a  garnishing  for  chicken  or  veal,  and  is  prepared 
with  fine  Indian  rice,  its  grains  being  long,  white  and  whole;  in  case  none  of  this  can  be  procured, 
then  take  Carolina  rice.  Plunge  it  into  a  bountiful  supply  of  boiling  water  after  picking  and 
washing  it,  and  as  soon  as  it  no  longer  cracks  between  the  teeth,  then  drain  it  through  a  colander, 
and  wash  it  off  with  salted  tepid  water,  spread  it  over  a  large  sieve,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  leave  it 
to  dry  for  a  fe,w  moments  at  the  oven  door,  then  dress  it  in  a  vegetable  dish,  cover  and  serve. 

Rice  with  Butter. — Blanch  some  rice  for  five  or  six  minutes,  drain  and  wash  it  off  with  tepid 
water,  then  leave  it  to  dry  on  a  cloth.  Put  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion  into  a  saucepan,  leave 
it  to  fry  in  some  butter,  and  then  add  to  it  the  rice;  when  it  is  very  hot,  moisten  with  white  stock 
(No.  194a),  and  leave  it  to  finish  cooking  on  a  good  fire,  keeping  it  slightly  firm,  set  it  to  smother 
for  a  few  moments  at  the  oven  door,  then  remove  it,  and  beat  up  into  it  with  a  fork,  a  good  sized 
piece  of  butter.  Dress  the  rice  in  a  vegetable  dish,  cover  it  with  a  small  napkin  previously 
dampened  in  hot  water,  put  the  cover  on  the  dish  and  serve. 

(738).  KIOHELIEU  GAENISHING,  ANCIENT  AND  MODEEN  (Garniture  Eichelieu,  Ancienne  et 

Moderns). 

Ancient. — Eighteen  medium  sized  onions  (each  one  weighing  an  ounce),  stuffed  with  chicken 
forcemeat  a  la  Soubise  (No.  89).  Six  ounces  of  cock's-combs,  eight  ounces  of  escalops  of  foies-gras 
(No.  2279).  To  be  served  with  champagne  sauce  separate  (No.  445). 

Modern. — Six  ounces  of  pear-shaped  blanched  carrots,  six  ounces  of  cauliflower,  six  ounces  of 
green  peas,  six  ounces  of  string  beans,  six  ounces  of  asparagus  tops,  six  ounces  of  potato  balls,  six 
ounces  of  mushrooms,  eight  stuffed  lettuces  and  eight  stuffed  tomatoes.  Dress  these  in  separate 
groups  and  serve  separately  a  demi-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(739).  PIEDMONTESE  EISOT  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Eisot  Piemontaise). 

Risot  can  be  employed  either  as  a  soup  or  a  garnishing;  the  manner  to  prepare  it  is  most 
simple.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  up  onion,  let  it  fry  to  a  nice  golden  color 
in  some  butter,  and  add  to  it  a  pint  of  clean  but  unwashed  Piedmont  rice;  cook  it  for  two  minutes 
while  stirring,  and  then  moisten  with  three  pints  of  broth,  cook  it  again  for  twenty  minutes  without 
touching  it;  by  this  time  the  rice  ought  not  to  be  too  much  done,  but  the  liquid  nearly  all  absorbed; 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  finish  simply  by  incorporating  into  it  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  good  butter,  a  very  little  at  the  time,  using  a  two  pronged  fork  (Fig.  175)  for  stirring,  and  two 
handfuls  of  grated  parmesan  cheese,  also  some  cayenne  pepper.  If  the  rice  be  of  good  quality 
and  properly  cooked,  it  requires  no  further  seasoning;  cover  it  for  five  or  six  minutes,  and  then 
dress  it  in  a  vegetable  dish,  and  dredge  over  some  more  parmesan.  Eisot  prepared  in  tins  way 
may  be  placed  in  large  timbale  molds,  or  else  in  a  border  mold,  first  brushing  the  inside  over 
with  some  melted  glaze.  If  desired  the  cheese  may  be  served  separately  instead  of  mixed  with 
the  rice. 

(740).  EOTHSOHILD  GAENISHING  AND  OOOKS'-KIDNEYS  VILLEEOI  (Garniture  Eothschild  et 

Eognons  de  coq  a  la  Villeroi). 

This  garnishing  is  composed  of  eighteen  kidneys  a  la  Villeroi,  nine  game  quenelles  made  in  a 
dessertspoon  (No.  155),  nine  escalops  of  sweetbreads,  nine  escalops  of  smoked  ham  cut  from  the 
lean  part  and  pared  into  half-hearts,  nine  escalops  of  foies-gras  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  ham, 
and  eighteen  small  whole  truffles.  Dress  these  ingredients  in  clusters,  and  serve  with  a  brown 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  to  which  has  been  added  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398),  one-half  to  be 
poured  over  the  garnishing,  and  the  rest  to  be  served  separately.  Serve  the  cocks'-kidneys  apart. 

Cocks' -Kidneys  Villeroi.—  Simply  poach  the  kidneys  by  putting  them  into  a  colander,  and 
plunging  into  boiling  water  until  they  are  poached  and  firm,  then  drain  and  cover  with  a  Villeroi 
sauce  (No.  560),  let  get  cold,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  then  fry  to  a  fine 
color,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top,  and  quartered  lemons 
around. 

(741).  SALPIOON  GAENISHING  (Garniture  Salpicon). 

A  salpicon  is  composed  of  several  meats  cut  in  three-sixteenths  to  one-quarter  inch  dice, 
and  combined  with  truffles  and  mushrooms  trimmed  exactly  the  same.  It  is  used  either  with 
a  brown  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  or  if  a  white  sauce  is  desired,  with  a  veloute  (No.  415), 
or  an  allemande  (No.  407).  The  salpicon  should  be  mixed  with  the  sauces  mentioned  in  each  recipe. 


350  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(742).  SALPICON  GARNISHING,  COLUMBIAN  (Garniture  Salpicon,  Colombienne). 
Is  composed  of  sixteen  ounces  of  mushrooms,  four  ounces  of  roast  game  fillets,  six  ounces  of 
lambs'  fries,  and  if  for  fat,  a  fat  financiere  sauce  (No.  464),  and  if  required  for  lean,  use  twelve 
blanched  and  well  drained  oysters  cut  in  pieces  and  sauted  in  butter,  with  six  ounces  of  mush- 
rooms, six  ounces  of  salmon  sauted  in  butter,  and  with  these  use  a  lean  financiere  sauce. 

(743).  PAT  LIVER  SALPICON  (Salpicon  de  Foies-Gras). 

Braise  fourteen  ounces  of  fat  duck's  or  geese  livers  in  a  matignon  (No.  406)  (this  is  their 
weight  after  being  cooked),  leave  them  to  get  cold,  and  then  cut  them  up  into  small  dice,  also  four 
ounces  of  truffles,  and  two  of  ham.  Serve  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(744).  FLAVIGNAN  SALPICON  (Salpicon  a  la  Flavignan). 

Stir  into  a  pint  of  Flavignan  sauce  (No.  466),  two  ounces  of  spinal  marrow  and  three  ounces 
of  brains  cooked  in  acidulated  water,  seasoned  with  salt  and  whole  peppers,  and  garnished  with 
aromatic  herbs,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley  leaves,  and  onions.  Boil  together  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  let  them  get  cold  in  this  broth,  afterward  cutting  them  in  quarter  of  an  inch  squares.  Have 
also  four  ounces  of  braised  sweetbreads  cut  in  squares;  four  ounces  of  cooked  ham,  and  four  ounces 
of  cooked  mushrooms,  all  prepared  the  same. 

(745).  HUNTER'S  SALPIOON  (Salpicon  au  Chasseur). 

Is  composed  of  roasted  game  breasts  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  dice  pieces,  truffles  cut  the 
same,  as  well  as  mushrooms  and  tongue,  and  chicken  livers  cut  up  in  one-quarter  inch  pieces, 
mixed  with  a  Hunter's  sauce  (No.  480). 

(746).  LOBSTER,   SHRIMP  OR  CRAWFISH,  WITH   MUSHROOM  OR  TRUFFLE  SALPIOON 

(Salpicon  de  Homard,  d'Ecrevisses  ou  de  Orevettes,  aux  Champignons  ou  aux  Truffles). 

Take  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  tails,  sixteen  ounces  of  cooked  lobster  meat,  or 
shrimps,  or  crawfish,  and  four  ounces  of  mushrooms,  both  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
dice;  have  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  cream  and  thickened  at  the  last 
moment  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

With  Truffles. — Suppress  the  mushrooms  and  add  two  ounces  of  truffles  cut  the  size  and 
shape  as  the  mushrooms. 

(747).  MONTGLAS  SALPIOON  (Salpicon  a  la  Montglas). 

Made  with  four  ounces  of  truffles,  eight  ounces  of  mushrooms,  eight  ounces  of  red  beef  tongue 
and  eight  ounces  of  chicken  or  game  livers,  all  cut  into  small  sticks;  if  needed  for  a  white  salpicon 
garnishing,  then  mix  these  with  either  a  veloute  (No.  415),  or  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  or  alle- 
mande  (No.  407),  and  if  for  brown  then  use  espagnole  (No.  414),  or  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  with 
essence  of  mushroom  (No.  392). 

(748X  PALERMITAINE  SALPICON  (Salpicon  a  la  Palermitaine). 

To  be  prepared  with  five  ounces  of  small  macaroni  cut  in  half  inch  lengths,  five  ounces  of  part 
ridge  breast,  five  ounces  of  artichokes  in  quarter  inch  squares,  and  three  of  ham  in  three-sixteenth 
inch  squares;  all  these  ingredients  to  be  mixed  with  a  turtle  sauce  (No.  552). 

(749).  PREVILLOT  SALPICON  (Salpicon  a  la  Previllot). 

Have  eight  ounces  of  fresh  raw  mushrooms,  twelve  ounces  of  egg-plant  and  one  ounce  of 
onions  all  cut  into  small  squares;  place  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  to  heat,  then  lay  in  the 
onions  to  fry  lightly  first,  add  the  egg-plant  and  later  the  mushrooms  with  a  mite  of  garlic. 
Moisten  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  white  wine,  despumate,  reduce  and  lastly  add  some 
chopped  parsley. 

(750).  REGENCE  SALPIOON  (Salpicon  a  la  Regence). 

For  Lean. — Use  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  three  sixteenth  inch  squares,  six  ounces  of  mush- 
rooms cut  the  same,  six  ounces  of  crawfish  tails  likewise  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  pieces,  four 
ounces  of  milt,  and  four  ounces  of  very  small  bead-shaped  fish  quenelles,  all  to  be  combined  with 
a  lean  regence  sauce  (No.  532). 


351 

For  Fat. — Five  ounces  of  braised  sweetbreads,  five  ounces  of  chicken  livers  and  five  ounces  of 
mushrooms,  all  these  to  be  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  five  ounces  of  small  bead-shaped 
chicken  quenelles  (No.  154),  and  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  the  same  as  the  other  ingredients;  to 
be  used  with  a  fat  regence  sauce  (No.  532). 

(751).  EOYAL  SALPICON  (Salpicon  a  la  Eoyale). 

For  Fat. — Ten  ounces  of  mushrooms  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  ten  ounces  of  white 
chicken  meat  cut  the  same,  and  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  the  same.  To  be  used  with  a  fat 
supreme  sauce  (No.  547). 

For  Lean. — Ten  ounces  of  lobster,  ten  ounces  of  mushrooms  and  four  of  truffles,  all  cut  up  in 
three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  mixed  with  a  lean  bechamel  sauce  (No.  411),  finished  at  the  last 
moment  with  crawfish  (No.  573)  or  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  and  cream. 

(752).  TUEBIGO  SALPICOff  (Salpicon  a  la  Turbigo). 

Have  eight  ounces  of  artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  one-quarter  inch  squares  and  the  same  of  braised 
ducks'  livers  cut  the  same  size,  and  o.ooked  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419)  with  four  ounces  of  three- 
sixteenth  inch  squares  of  truffles.  A  fine  strained  tomato  sauce  (No .  549)  mixed  with  twice  its 
quantity  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  thickened  with  cream  and  egg-yolks. 

(753).  TUETLE  SALPIOOff  (Salpicon  Tortue). 

For  Fat. — Four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  ten  ounces  of  the  gela- 
tinous part  of  calf's  head  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  six  of  sweetbreads  the  same,  and  four  of 
tongue  also  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares.  Mix  with  a  turtle  sauce  (No.  552). 

For  lean. — Four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  three- sixteenth  inch  squares,  ten  of  green  turtle  cut 
in  one-quarter  inch  squares,  six  of  mushrooms  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  four 
ounces  of  hard  boiled  egg-yolk  quenelles,  in  the  shape  of  small  beads,  a  turtle  sauce  (No.  552) 
with  tomatoes  sauce  (No.  549)  prepared  lean. 

(754).  SAUSAGE  GAENISHINGS  (Garnitures  de  Saucisses), 

Large  broiled  sausages  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  are  served  as  a  garnishing,  after 
removing  their  skins  and  cutting  them  across  into  quarter  inch  thick  slices. 

For  Chipolata  Garnishing  use  small  thin  sausages  an  inch  and  a  half  long  sauted  and  served 
with  Madeira  wine. 

For  Lubeck  Garnishing,  fry  them  in  the  pan  with  some  chicken  fat  und  use  with  a  thick 
gravy  (No.  405). 

Strasburg  Smoked  Sausages  are  small  smoked  ones  poached  for  a  few  minutes  in  boiling 
water  and  served  without  any  sauce  whatever. 

(755).  SCALLOP   SHELLS  FOE  EELEVES  GAENISHING  (Garniture  de  Coquilles  de  Pe'toncles  ou 

Coquilles  St.  Jacques  Pelerines  Pour  EelevSs). 

These  shells  must  be  chosen  the  smallest  kind  and  of  equal  size.  They  may  be  filled  with  a 
preparation  for  shells,  St.  Jacques  (No.  1079),  or  havraise  (1075),  or  brestoise  (1874);  smooth  well 
the  tops,  dust  over  with  white  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  grated  cheese,  besprinkle  with  a  little 
butter  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven.  This  garnishing  is  easy  to  serve,  and  has  one  great 
advantage;  that  of  being  able  to  prepare  it  in  advance. 

(756).   SPANISH   SWEET  PEPPEES   SAUTED,    GAENISHING    (Garniture    de    Piments    Doux 

d'Espagne  Saute"s). 

These  peppers  are  imported  from  Spain  or  Havana;  select  those  that  are  fresh  and  with  thick 
meat.  Put  them  on  the  broiler  or  in  the  oven,  until  they  soften,  and  the  skin  peels  off,  remove, 
and  open  them;  suppress  all  the  hard  parts  and  skin;  saute  them  in  oil  with  some  chopped  onions 
and  mushrooms,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  fine  herbs.  If  fresh  Spanish  sweet  peppers  cannot 
be  procured,  then  take  the  preserved  ones;  they  are  already  prepared  in  cans  and  only  need 
draining  to  have  them  ready  for  use. 


352  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(757).  SPINAL  MAKKOW  GARNISHING  (Garniture  d'Amourettes). 

Calf's  spinal  marrow  is  preferable  to  beef's.  Put  three  pounds  of  calf's  spinal  marrow  to 
soak  in  cold  water  for  three  hours,  changing  the  water  each  hour;  then  remove  the  thin  sanguineous 
skin  covering  them  and  trim  them.  Cook  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  little  salted  water  \vithsome 
vinegar,  parsley  leaves,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  whole  peppers,  and  sliced  onions;  pour  it  all  into  a  bowl 
and  let  the  marrow  get  cold  in  the  stock,  then  cut  them  up  into  pieces  two  inches  long.  Bread- 
crumb half  of  these,  dip  them  in  egg,  and  fry  them  until  they  acquire  a  good  color.  Drain  and 
wipe  well  the  other  half,  saute  them  in  butter,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  fine  herbs.  A 
Colbert  sauce  (No.  451),  accompanies  this  garnishing  served  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(758).  STRAWS  CHEESE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Failles  au  Fromage). 

Prepare  seven  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  four  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  four 
tablespoonf  uls  of  raw  cream,  two  egg-yolks,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  and  a  grain  of  salt.  First  rub  well 
between  the  two  hands,  the  butter  and  flour,  so  as  to  have  them  sandy;  then  lay  this  in  a  ring  on 
the  table,  and  into  the  center  pour  the  cream,  egg-yolks,  cheese,  pepper,  and  salt;  make  the  dough 
using  for  this  purpose  the  blade  of  a  knife  so  as  not  to  heat  the  paste,  and  when  well  mingled,  roll 
it  out  into  a  square  piece  the  thickness  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  Cut  this  into  bands  two 
and  three-quarter  inches  wide,  and  cut  these  again  across  into  ribbons  as  wide  as  their  thickness; 
roll  them  with  the  hands  on  the  floured  table  to  give  each  one  a  round  shape,  then  range  them  at 
once  on  to  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  clip  off  their  ends  together  so  as  to  have  them  all  of  equal 
length,  and  egg  the  surfaces.  Cook  these  straws  for  seven  or  eight  minutes  in  a  slack  oven,  then 
take  them  out  and  detach  them  from  the  sheet  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  return  them  at  once  to 
the  oven  to  finish  cooking,  a  few  minutes  being  sufficient  for  this  purpose.  Serve  them  on  folded 
napkins. 

(759).  SMALL  SWISS  CHEESE  SOUFFLE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Petits  Souffle's  au  Fromage 

Suisse). 

Butter  twelve  hollow  tartlet  molds;  fill  them  to  almost  their  height  with  a  cheese  souffle 
preparation  (No.  2984)  not  too  light.  Range  these  molds  in  a  sautoire  with  a  little  hot  water,  and 
let  them  poach  in  a  slack  oven  for  sixteen  to  eighteen  minutes  without  allowing  the  water  to  boil. 
After  removing  them  from  the  oven,  unmold  on  a  deep  buttered  silver  dish;  dredge  over  some 
grated  parmesan  cheese  in  such  a  way  that  the  tops  of  all  the  small  loaves  are  well  covered;  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  serving,  pour  over  some  good  raw  cream  so  that  they  float  in  the  liquid  to  about 
half  their  height,  then  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  let  them  absorb  the  cream, 
souffleing  them  slightly  and  coloring  them  at  the  same  time.  Serve  the  instant  they  leave  the 
oven. 

(760).  TARTLETS  A  LA  FARMENTIER  (Tartelettes  a  la  Parmentier). 

Roll  out  thin  some  timbale  paste  (No.  150).  and  line  some  small  hollow  tartlet  molds.  Pre- 
pare a  little  puree  of  potatoes  the  same  as  for  Duchess  potatoes  (No.  2785),  keeping  it  rather  stiff, 
and  mix  with  it  egg-yolks,  butter,  and  parmesan  cheese;  with  this  fill  the  tartlet  molds,  having 
previously  pricked  the  paste  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  press  the  potatoes  down  well  and  smooth 
the  top;  butter  it  over,  and  besprinkle  with  grated  parmesan,  then  put  them  into  a  moderate  oven 
to  cook.  Unmold  and  serve. 

(761).  TARTLETS  OF  NOQUES  WITH  PARMESAN  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Tartelettes  de 

Noques  au  Parmesan). 

Line  some  large  tartlet  molds  with  fine  paste  (No.  135)  and  prick  the  paste.  Prepare  a  pate-a- 
chou  with  cheese  (No.  132),  lay  it  on  a  floured  table  and  divide  it  into  several  pieces;  roll  them  with 
the  hands  into  strings  the  thickness  of  macaroni,  then  cut  them  across  into  pieces  the  same  length 
as  their  thickness;  place  them  on  a  sieve  containing  a  little  flour,  and  toss  them  so  that  they  form 
into  small  balls,  then  plunge  these  balls  into  boiling,  salted  water.  Let  the  water  boil  up  twice, 
set  them  on  one  side  of  the  range  until  the  paste  is  well  poached,  and  then  drain  them  through  a 
colander.  Put  on  the  fire  to  reduce  two  or  three  gills  of  good  bechamel  (No.  409),  incorporating 
into  it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  mushroom  broth  and  some  raw  cream;  when  well  thickened 
finish  with  few  spoonfuls  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  take  it  from  the  fire  and  throw  in  thenoques; 
let  simmer  for  five  minutes  on  a  very  slow  fire,  and  then  add  butter  and  parmesan  cheese,  and  a 


353 

little  grated  nutmeg,  fill  the  tartlet  molds  with  this  preparation;  smooth  the  surface  neatly  and 
dredge  a  little  parmesan  on  top,  bake  them  in  the  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  unmold  the 
tartlets  and  serve  them  exceedingly  hot. 

(762).  POLENTA  TARTLETS  (Tartelettes  de  Polenta). 

Boil  a  quart  of  water,  then  add  to  it  three-quarters  of  a  quart  of  polenta  letting  it  fall  like 
rain  into  the  boiling  liquid.  Cook  it  on  the  fire  while  stirring  unceasingly,  and  incorporate  into  it, 
three  ounces  of  butter,  three  ounces  of  parmesan  and  six  egg-yolks.  Fill  small  tartlet  molds  lined 
with  fine  paste  (No.  135)  with  this  preparation,  leaving  a  hole  in  the  center  and  filling  it  in  with 
salpicon  Previllot  (No.  749);  cover  the  whole  with  polenta,  smooth  the  top,  besprinkle  with  butter 
and  dredge  over  grated  parmesan,  and  then  cook  them  nicely  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(763).  SEMOLINO  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  k  la  Semoule). 

Line  some  tartlet  molds  with  fine  paste  (No.  135),  cook  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  bouillon  (No. 
187),  half  a  pound  of  semolino,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  the  same  of  grated  parmesan  and  two 
whole  eggs,  and  fill  the  molds  with  this  preparation,  leaving  an  empty  space  in  the  center  to  fill 
in  with  a  Columbian  salpicon  (No.  742),  cover  over  with  some  semolino  preparation,  pour  over 
some  butter,  bestrew  grated  parmesan  on  top  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven. 

(764).  SPINACH  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  aux  Epinards). 

Line  the  small  tartlet  molds  with  a  thin  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  prick  the  bottom,  pick 
and  wash  one  pound  of  spinach,  parboil  it  in  salted  water  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel,  and 
when  the  leaves  crush  easily  between  the  fingers,  drain,  refresh  and  drain  it  once  more,  press  it 
well  between  the  hands  to  extract  all  the  water,  and  weigh  one  pound  of  it,  then  chop  it  up 
finely,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  over  a  quick  fire  with  four  ounces  of  butter  added,  leave  it  to 
dry  for  a  few  minutes,  then  thicken  it  with  one  tablespoonf  ul  of  flour,  moistening  with  two  gills  of 
cream.  "When  cold  add  two  ounces  of  parmesan,  two  ounces  of  butter,  eight  egg-yolks  and  four 
whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth;  mix  together  thoroughly  and  fill  up  the  molds;  finish  cooking  them 
in  a  slack  oven. 

(765).  TARTLETS  WITH  CREAM  AND  PARMESAN  CHEESE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de 

Tartelettes  a  la  Oreme  au  Parmesan). 

Roll  out  a  timbale  paste  (No.  150),  very  thin,  and  with  it  line  some  large,  flat  tartlet  molds; 
prick  the  bottom  paste  and  strew  over  some  grated  parmesan  cheese,  and  in  the  center  of  each  one 
lay  a  small  pat  of  butter.  Beat  up  in  a  bowl,  five  raw  egg-yolks,  dilute  with  one  pint  of  raw  cream, 
add  a  grain  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  some  pepper,  strain,  and  add  a  handful  of 
grated  parmesan;  then  pour  it  into  the  lined  molds  so  as  to  fill  them  up,  set  these  molds  on  a 
baking  sheet,  and  push  them  carefully  into  a  slack  oven  to  let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  more  or 
less  according  to  the  size  of  the  molds;  leave  them  at  the  warm  oven  door  for  five  minutes, 
then  unmold  quickly  and  dress  them  on  folded  napkins  or  around  a  remove. 

(766).  TOULOUSE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Toulouse). 

Have  eight  ounces  of  truffles  cut  either  into  balls  or  else  minced,  and  cooked  in  a  little  Madeira 
wine;  add  to  these  truffles,  sixteen  mushroom  heads,  eight  turned  and  the  other  eight  fluted 
(No.  118)  twelve  pretty  cocks'-combs,  and  twelve  cocks'-kidneys.  Dress  in  clusters  both  the  truffles 
and  the  other  ingredients,  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  or  clear 
chicken  half -glaze  (No.  389).  Serve  separately  some  of  the  same  sauce. 

(767).  TRUFFLE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Truffes). 

Raw  truffles  to  be  used  whole  for  garnishings  should  be  first  peeled,  then  cooked  for  eight  or 
ten  minutes  in  some  good  Madeira.  In  case  there  be  no  fresh  truffles  on  hand,  then  use  the  pre- 
served ones  which  are  considered  excellent.  For  garnishing  with  truffles,  cut  them  in  slices,  or 
olive  shaped,  or  in  quarters,  or  in  small  sticks,  or  else  left  whole;  minced  truffles  are  also  used, 
prepared  by  cutting  them  into  thin  slices  and  sautemg  them  in  butter  and  oil  over  a  brisk  fire; 
season  and  finish  with  a  little  Madeira  or  supreme  sauce,  or  even  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  or  half- 
glaze  (No.  400)  well  reduced  and  buttered. 


354  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(768).  TURTLE  GARNISHING  (Garniture  Tortue). 

The  turtle  garnishing  for  meat  removes  is  composed  of  lamb's  sweetbreads  or  else  small  calf's 
sweetbreads,  larded  and  braised;  of  brains  cut  into  three-quarter  inch  pieces,  bread-crumbed 
and  fried;  small  peeled  truffles  cooked  in  Madeira  wine,  mushroom  heads,  quenelles  made  with  a 
teaspoon  (No.  155),  egg  quenelles  composed  of  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  pounded  with  a  little  but- 
ter, some  fine  herbs  arid  raw  yolks,  pickled  gherkins  cut  into  small  balls,  stoned  and  blanched 
olives,  calves'  palates,  and  crawfish  a  la  Bordelaise  (No.  1008). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  some  turtle  sauce  (No.  552),  add  the  peeled  truffles,  mushrooms,  quenelles 
pickles,  olives,  egg-quenelles,  and  palates;  mix  well  together  and  dress  this  garnishing, 
decorating  around  with  the  crawfish,  brains,  and  the  larded  and  glazed  sweetbreads.  Serve 
a  turtle  sauce  (No.  552)  with  Madeira  separately. 

For  a  Lean  Turtle  Garnishing. — Make  it  of  fish  quenelles  (No.  90),  hard-boiled  egg 
quenelles,  mushroom  heads,  pickled  gherkins  cut  in  balls,  stoned  and  blanched  olives,  and  large 
crawfish.  The  lean  turtle  sauce  to  accompany  it  should  be  reduced  with  fish  essence  (No.  388). 

(769).  WINGS  OF  TURKEY  OR  PULLET  A  LA  VILLEROI  GARNISHING  (Garniture  d' Ailerons 

de  Dinde  ou  de  Poularde  a  la  Villeroi). 

Singe  turkey  or  pullet  wings  and  bone  them  as  far  as  the  joint,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  a  little  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  fine  herbs,  laying 
it  in  through  a  cornet  and  pushing  the  skin  into  the  cut  side  so  as  to  well  enclose  the  force- 
meat. They  may  be  sewn  with  coarse  thread,  and  then  blanched  and  drained.  Remove  the 
feather  stubs  carefully  and  put  the  wings  into  a  saucepan  lined  with  bardes  of  salt  pork,  and 
covered  with  some  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  Lay  more  slices  of  pork  on  top  of  the  wings  and  let 
them  cook  slowly  for  one  hour  or  more;  drain,  pare,  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  pour  the  mirepoix  stock 
over,  and  leave  to  get  cold;  then  take  them  out  and  cover  them  with  a  villeroi  sauce  No.  560), 
with  some  chopped  mushrooms  added.  Dip  in  beaten  egg,  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  a  fine  color. 

(770).  YORKSHIRE  PUDDING  GARNISHING  (Garniture  de  Ponding  Yorkshire). 
Dilute  in  a  bowl,  half  a  pound  of  flour  with  one  pint  of  milk,  and  five  whole  eggs,  salt,  and 
four  ounces  of  melted  butter,  keeping  the  paste  liquid;  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Cover  a  raised 
edged  baking  pan  with  a  layer  of  melted  butter  or  fat,  pour  in  the  preparation,  having  it  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  high,  set  it  in  a  slow  oven,  and  half  an  hour  after  turn  it  over,  and  cook  the  other  side 
for  another  half  hour.  When  done  cut  it  into  squares  or  lozenges  and  serve  it  as  a  garnishing.  A 
thickened  gravy  (No.  405)  should  be  served  at  the  same  time. 


SIDE   DISHES. 


COLD  SIDE  DISHES  (Hors-d'ffiuvre  Froids). 


Hors-d'oeuvre,  or  side  dishes,  signifies  out  of  the  work,  they  having  no  place  on  the  bill 
of  fare.  They  are  certain  appetizing  dishes  placed  on  the  table  before  dinner,  remaining  on  in 
the  Russian  service,  until  the  dessert;  in  the  French  service  they  pass  round  a  few  hors-d'oeuvre 
after  the  soup,  such  as  melons,  olives,  radishes,  celery,  figs,  artichokes,  canapes, etc. 

In  Russia  the  hors-d'oeuvre  is  highly  appreciated,  and  as  in  the  Russian  service  the  removes, 
entrees  and  roasts  do  not  appear  on  the  table,  which  should  be  handsomely  decorated  with  all  kinds 
of  hors-d'ceuvre  so  as  to  make  an  elegant  display.  In  formal  dinners  they  serve  in  another  apart- 
ment close  to  the  dining-room,  a  table  spread  with  a  variety  of  side  dishes;  they  also  serve  at  the 
same  time  kiimmel,  brandy,  vermouth,  absinthe,  gin,  etc. 

(771).  ALLIGATOE  PEAES  (Avocats). 

Originally  from  South  America.  Select  the  fruit  when  very  ripe,  peel  off  the  outer  green  skin, 
and  cut  the  pear  in  slices,  range  them  on  a  side  dish,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar,  and 
garnish  around  with  slices  of  lemon  cut  in  halves. 

(772),  ANOHOVIES-SAEDELS-ANOHOVY  SALAD  AND  ANCHOVIES  WITH  OLIVES,  (Anchois 

et  Salade  d'Anchois,  Anchois  aux  Olives). 

Anchovies  from  Marseilles  and  Italy  are  considered  very  fine,  their  meat  being  red  and  of  an 
exquisite  taste,  yet,  in  New  York,  the  white  meat  anchovies  imported  from  Holland  called  Sardels 
are  preferred.  Wash  them  well,  changing  the  water  frequently,  then  let  them  soak;  afterward 
drain  and  wipe  well  with  a  di'y  cloth  to  remove  the  fine  white  skin  covering  these  fishes,  divide  them 
in  two  lengthwise,  remove  the  middle  bone,  and  pare  well  the  fillets,  cut  off  their  ends  square,  hav- 
ing them  all  of  equal  length,  and  then  lay  them  in  small  jars  and  cover  over  with  oil,  to  use  when 
needed.  Drain  and  arrange  them  symmetrically  on  side  dishes,  and  garnish  either  with  parsley, 
chervil  or  chopped  tarragon,  sprinkle  over  a  dash  of  vinegar  and  some  good  oil,  garnish  with 
chopped  hard  boiled  eggs,  or  else  quartered  eggs  and  slices  of  green  lemon  cut  in  halves. 

Anchovies  with  Olives. — When  the  anchovies  are  prepared  as  for  the  above,  pare  them  on 
one  side,  and  remove  a  little  of  the  ends,  then  roll  them  over  a  round  stick  of  wood  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  so  that  an  olive  can  be  inserted  in  the  center.  The  olives  should 
be  stoned  with  a  small  cylindrical  cutter,  and  the  empty  space  filled  with  hard  boiled  egg-yolks 
rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  or  else  some  anchovy  butter  (No.  569).  Range  them  symmetrically 
and  sprinkle  over  a  little  good  sweet  oil. 

(773).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  PEINTANIEE,  SMALL  APPETITE,  SMALL  EA¥  POIVEADE 

(Fonds  d'Artichauts  Printaniers,  Petit  AppStit,  Petits  cms  Poivrade), 

It  is  necessary  to  have  small  artichoke  bottoms;  remove  the  green  part  covering  the  bottoms 
and  all  the  leaves  until  the  stringy  core  is  reached;  pare  the  bottoms  to  have  them  very  round 
and  even,  and  rub  them  as  quickly  as  they  are  done  with  half  a  lemon,  then  throw  them  into 
cold  water.  Blanch  them  until  the  core  or  choke  can  be  easily  removed,  then  cook  them  in  water, 
butter,  lemon  juice,  and  salt;  drain  and  make  incisions  in  the  bottom,  and  marinate  them  for  one 
hour  in  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar,  then  drain  them.  Garnish  them  with  a 
small  vegetable  macedoine  (No.  680),  well  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  mayonnaise, 
then  dress  them  on  a  side  dish. 

(355) 


356  THE    EPICUREAN. 

For  Small  Appetite,  instead  of  the  macedoine,  take  some  small  green  chiccory,  wash  it  well 
and  add  to  it  some  chopped  chervil  and  tarragon;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar,  dress 
and  decorate  the  tops  with  small  anchovy  fillets. 

Small  Artichokes,  Poivrade. — Choose  small,  freshly  gathered  artichokes,  green  and  tender; 
trim  the  bottoms,  rub  them  with  lemon,  and  remove  two  or  three  rows  of  the  hardest  leaves,  place 
the  artichokes  at  once  into  cold  acidulated  water,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  drain  and  lay  them  on  a 
side  dish  with  clean  pieces  of  ice  set  around.  Serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat,  a  French  dressing 
made  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  oil,  and  mustard. 

(774).  BEETS  (Betteraves). 

Select  very  red  beets  without  being  stringy;  cook  them  either  in  water,  or  by  steam,  or  else 
in  the  oven;  do  not  cut  off  either  the  stalk  or  root  until  ready  to  use.  Peel  and  put  them  into  an 
earthen  or  stone  crock,  and  cover  them  over  with  vinegar.  They  may  also  be  seasoned  with  salt 
and  cloves,  or  else  salt  and  carraway  seeds.  Cut  them  in  slices  and  arrange  on  a  side  dish,  pour- 
ing a  little  vinegar  over. 

(775).  BUTTEK  PKESH  MOLDED  (Beurre  Frais  Mouia 
The  butter  must  be  of  the  very  best  quality,  without  a  particle  of  salt,  and  used  the  same  day 

it  is  made. 

For  Shells. — Grate  with  a  table  knife  a  piece  of  firm  but  not  too  hard  butter;  when  there  is 

sufficient  on  the  blade  of  the  knife,   remove  it  with  the  finger  to  place  it  immediately  on  a 

butter  dish  or  in  ice  water. 

.For  Pats. — Divide  a  pound  of  butter  into  sixteen  equal  parts,  or  one  ounce  for  each.     The 

butter  must  be  well  worked,  neither  too  soft  nor  too 
hard;  set  it  into  cold  water,  with  two  grooved  wooden 
pallets  lift  out  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  ball  half  an 
inch  in  diameter,  press  the  butter  between  the  two  pallets, 
turn  it  round  lightly,  and  remove  the  surplus  with  the 
first  finger  of  the  right  hand;  when  a  pat  is  formed,  take 
it  out  and  throw  it  into  cold  water. 
FIO.  199.  For  Vermicelli  Suiter. — Put  butter  not  too  hard  into 

a  machine  called  a  butter  syringe,  having  a  tin  perfor- 
ated sheet  with  holes  three  thirty-seconds  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  push  the  butter  through 
these  so  that  it  falls  into  the  water. 

To  Serve  it  in  Small  Stone  Pots. — Fill  some  small  gray  stone  pots  with  butter  and  cover 
with  pieces  of  fine  muslin;  these  are  placed  as  they  are  on  the  table.  Butter  is  often  served, 
drained,  and  laid  on  grape  leaves,  or  simply  in  butter  dishes  with  small  pieces  of  very  clean  ice 
around. 

(776).  EED  AND  WHITE  CABBAGE,  ENGLISH  STYLE,  AND  MAEINATED   OAULITLOWEK 

(Choux  Kouges  et  Choux  Blancs  a  1'Anglaise  et  Choux-Fleurs  Marine's). 

Cut  either  a  white  or  red  cabbage  in  four,  remove  the  core  and  hard  parts  of  the  leaves,  cut 
the  latter  up  very  fine,  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel  with  a  handful  of  salt  for  each  cabbage;  turn 
them  over  every  day,  and  at  the  end  of  four  days,  drain  them,  and  put  them  into  a  stone  jar,  pour- 
ing over  the  cabbage  some  good,  boiling  vinegar,  add  a  few  cloves,  some  ginger,  small  blanched 
onions,  red  peppers;  and  grated  horseradish  root;  a  few  days  later  the  cabbage  may  be  served  as 
a  hors-d'oeuvre,  laying  it  in  side  dishes. 

For  Marinated  Cauliflower. — Choose  white  and  hard  cauliflowers,  cut  off  all  the  leaves  and 
divide  the  flower  into  small  clusters;  remove  the  core,  pare  them  nicely,  and  range  them  into  a 
very  clean  tinned  saucepan.  Cover  with  cold  water,  boil  up  the  liquid,  then  add  salt,  and  let  them 
boil  for  ten  minutes;  now  remove  the  cauliflowers,  lay  them  in  cold  water,  drain,  and  set  in  glass 
jars  or  else  stone  crocks;  cover  them  with  white  vinegar,  add  cloves,  salt,  red  peppers,  tarragon, 
mace,  and  mustard  seed,  all  of  these  tied  in  a  small  bag,  and  leave  to  marinate  for  about  four  days; 
when  needed,  range  them  on  side  dishes,  and  pour  over  a  little  of  the  vinegar  in  which  they 
marinated.  A  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  may  be  passed  round  the  same  time  as  the  cauliflower. 


SIDE    DISHES. 


357 


(777),  CANAPES,  WINDSOR,  ANCHOVY,  SARDINES,  CAVIARE,  RUSSIAN  HERRING, 
SMOKED  SALMON  OR  STURGEON,  DEVILED  HERRING,  SHRIMP,  CRAWFISH, 
LOBSTER,  ANCHOVY  BUTTER,  RED  BEEF  TONGUE  OR  HAM,  OAREME  AND 
HARD-BOILED  EGGS  (Canapes  Windsor,  aux  Anchois,  aux  Sardines,  aux  Caviar,  aux 
Harengs  a  la  Russe,  de  Saumon  ou  d'Esturgeon,  de  Harengs  a  la  Diable,  de  Crevettesi 
d'Ecrevisses,  de  Homards,  au  Beurre  d' Anchois,  a  la  Langue  Ecarlate  ou  au  Jambon,  a 
la  Oareme  et  d'ffiufs  Durs), 

These  canapes  can  be  arranged  on  grape  leaves  or  a  folded  napkin.     Cut  slices  of  bread  from 

the  crumb  of  a  dense  loaf  of  bread  containing  no  holes,  having  them  all  of  uniform  size,  the  same 

as  when  preparing  sandwiches;  the  oblong  ones  three  and  one-half  by  one  and  one-half  inches  and 

three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  the  round  ones  two  and 

one-half  inches  in  diameter  and  the  same  thickness;  the 

oval  ones  three  inches  long  by  two  and  one-fourth  inches 

wide,  and  the  same  thickness  as  the  round  and  oblong 

ones.     Toast  lightly,  and  butter  over  either  with  butter 

mixed  with  anchovy  essence  or  simply  with  plain  butter; 

season  with  salt,  mustard  and  red  pepper,  and  push  through  a  cornet  on  to  the  borders,  a  string 
of  anchovy  butter,  or  any  other  kind,  such  as  lobster  (No.  580),  Montpellier  (No.  582),  etc.  Garn- 
ish or  cover  the  empty  space  in  the  center. 


FIG.  800. 


FIG.  201. 


FIG.  202. 


FIG.  203. 


FIG.  204. 


FIG.  205. 


For  Windsor  Canapes. — Have  half  a  pound  of  cold  chicken  white  meat;  pound  it  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  ham,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  tongue;  when  the  meats  are 
reduced  to  a  paste,  add  to  it  one  pound  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  grated  Chester  cheese,  a  spoonful 
of  English  mustard,  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Cut  oval-shaped  slices  of  bread  (Fig.  200), 
toast  them  on  both  sides,  let  get  cold,  and  then  cover  them  with  the  above  preparation; 
smooth  the  surface  and  decorate  with  fillets  of  gherkins,  and  beets  to  form  lozenges;  lay  capers  in 
the  intersections,  and  on  top  some  half-set  jelly,  and  dress  the  canapes  on  folded 
napkins. 

For  Anchovy  Canapes. — These  are  made  round-shaped;  butter  them  over  with  fresh  butter, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  mustard,  and  arrange  the  anchovy  fillets,  in  the  form  of  a  rosette 
with  a  border  around;  garnish  between  the  anchovies  with  chopped  parsley  and  egg-yolks  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  and  hard  boiled  egg-whites  chopped  up  very  fine  (Fig.  201). 

For  Sardine  Canape's. — Spread  on  one  side  of  an  oblong  toast,  Montpellier  butter  (No.  582), 
garnish  the  top  with  sardines,  first  removing  the  skin  and  bones,  and  then  garnish  between  these 
with  chopped  yolks  and  whites  of  egg,  and  some  chopped  parsley.  Decorate  by  placing  a  piece 
of  sardine  lengthwise  on  the  canape  and  six  smaller  pieces  set  at  an  angle  (Fig.  202). 

For  Caviare  Canapes. — Make  the  canapes  oblong  shape  as  explained  above;  the  border  to  be  of 
fresh  butter.  If  the  caviare  should  be  too  hard,  work  in  with  it  some  oil  and  lemon  juice;  fill  the 
empty  center  with  this  caviare,  and  around  the  inside  border,  and  on  top  of  the  caviare  lay  a  row 
of  very  finely  chopped  raw  onions  (Fig.  203). 

For  Russian  Herring  Canapes. — Remove  the  fillets  from  unsalted  herrings;  wipe  off  the  white 
skin  with  a  cloth  and  suppress  the  middle  bone,  then  cut  them  into  small  fillets.  Have  a  sour 
apple  peeled  and  chopped  finely,  mix  it  in  with  some  sour  cream,  butter  some  oblong  slices  of 
bread  with  fresh  butter,  garnish  the  tops  with  a  layer  of  the  chopped  apple,  and  on  this  arrange 
the  herring  fillets,  one  row  around  the  edge  and  two  lengthwise  of  the  canape's,  garnish  between 
the  fillets  with  capers  and  chopped  egg  whites  and  yolks  (Fig.  204). 

For  Smoked  Salmon  or  Sturgeon  Canapes.— Cut  either  of  these  fish  into  thin  fillets:  have 
oblong  canapes  buttered  on  one  side  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569),  range  the  fillets  of  salmon  or 
sturgeon  on  top,  lay  five  crossbars  from  side  to  side  (Fig.  205)  and  around  the  edge,  garnish  the 
interstices  with  parsley  and  yolks  and  whites  of  eggs  chopped  up  separately. 


358  THE    EPICUREAN. 

For  Deviled  Herring  Canapes. — These  are  made  of  oval  slices  of  bread  buttered  with  an- 
chovy butter  (No.  569).  Remove  the  fillets  from  some  Yarmouth  bloaters,  roll  them  in  mustard 
a^ad  red  pepper,  and  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs;  broil  these,  then  garnish  the  canapes  with  them, 
decorating  the  surface  with  the  yolk  and  white  of  egg,  and  chopped  up  parsley. 

For  Shrimp  Canapes. — Have  round  slices  of  bread  buttered  on  one  side  with  shrimp  butter 
(No.  586),  lay  a  string  of  the  shrimp  butter  around  the  edge,  and  on  top  marinated  shrimp  tails, 
sprinkle  over  chopped  parsley. 

For  Crawfish  Canapes. — Have  round  slices  of  bread  buttered  over  with  crawfish  butter  (No. 
573),  and  a  string  of  crawfish  butter  on  the  edge;  cut  the  crawfish  in  two,  lengthwise,  season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  arrange  them  in  the  form  of  a  rosette  and  garnish  the 
center  with  very  green  chervil  leaves. 

For  Lobster  Canapes. — Round  slices  of  bread  buttered  over  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580), 
and  a  string  of  the  same  butter  around  the  edge;  cut  the  lobster  meat  into  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar  or  lemon- juice,  and  garnish  the  top  of 
the  canapes  with  these. 

For  Anchovy  Butter  Canapes. — Butter  the  canapes  on  one  side  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569), 
mixing  with  it  butter,  mustard  and  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  Dredge  chopped 
hard  boiled  egg-whites  over  the  top. 

For  Red  Beef  Tongue  or  Ham  Canapes. — Cut  some  slices  of  tongue  or  ham  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  thick;  pare  round-shaped  slices  of  bread  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  toast  them  and 
let  them  get  cold,  then  butter  them  over  with  butter;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  mustard; 
then  trim  the  tongue  or  ham  round  shaped  exactly  the  same  size  as  the  toasts;  put  them  on  the 
toasts  and  lay  in  the  center  a  three-quarter  inch  diameter  ball  of  grated  ham  or  tongue,  the 
ham  ball  on  top  of  the  ham,  and  the  tongue  ball  on  top  of  the  tongue;  cover  with  jelly  and  sprinkle 
over  chopped  parsley,  serving  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  rosette; 
garnish  with  green  parsley  leaves. 

For  Careme  Canapes. — Cut  in  Julienne  some  truffles  and  pickled  gherkins,  and  mix  them  in  a 
bechamel  chaufroid  (No.  593);  have  also  some  fillets  of  sole  and  smoked  salmon.  Toast  oval-shaped 
canapes,  cover  them  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569),  lay  the  salmon  or  sole  on  top  and  cover  with 
the  chaufroid  of  truffles  and  gherkins;  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  parsley  and  serve  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

Hard  Boiled  Egg  Canapes. — Boil  a  few  eggs  till  hard,  when  very  cold,  shell  and  chop  the 
yolks  and  whites  separately.  Cut  some  oblong  pieces  from  a  kitchen  loaf  having  them  slightly 
wider  than  for  sandwiches,  cover  one  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  ravigote  butter  (No.  583)  and 
surround  the  edges  with  thin  fillets  of  anchovies.  Decorate  the  tops  with  marinated  tanny 
fillets,  forming  them  into  distinct  compartments  and  fill  these  in  with  the  chopped  eggs,  being  careful 
to  separate  well  the  colors,  dress  the  canapes  on  napkins. 

(778).  OAVIAKE  (Caviar). 

The  best  caviare  comes  from  the  northern  part  of  Europe.  It  is  composed  of  sturgeon's  roe 
preserved  in  salt,  pepper,  and  onions,  and  then  left  to  ferment.  It  is  a  very  heavy  article  of  food 
and  difficult  to  digest.  When  the  caviare  is  too  hard,  it  can  be  softened  by  working  it  with  olive 
oil  and  lemon  juice.  Lay  it  on  a  side  dish  with  slices  of  lemon  around;  the  caviare  can  also  be  gar- 
nished with  finely  chopped  raw  onions. 

(779).  OELEEY  STALKS,  OELEKY,  PENNEL,  OELEBT  HEAETS,  OELEEY  KNOBS,  WITH 
VINAIGRETTE  MAYONNAISE  (Celeri  en  Branches,  Oeleri,  Penouil,  Celeri  Bave,  Vinaigrette 
Mayonnaise). 

For  Celery  Stalks. — Have  some  good  heads  seven  inches  long;  remove  the  outer  leaves  until  the 
the  fine,  tender,  yellow  ones  are  reached,  then  clean  them  by  cutting  off  all  the  hard  parts;  split 
the  stalks  into  four,  and  make  a  few  slight  incisions  on  their  length;  throw  them  at  once  into  cold 
water,  and  all  those  parts  that  are  notched  will  curl  outward,  giving  the  celery  a  beautiful 
appearance.  They  are  either  served  in  side  dishes  or  else  in  high  glass  stands. 

For  Celery,  Fennel,  Celery  Hearts. — Pare  these  well,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth,  and  lay  them  on 
side  dishes;  serve  at  the  same  time,  anchovies  pounded  and  pressed  through  a  sieve  diluted  with 
warm  oil.  English  people  eat  celery  with  the  cheese,  the  Italians  eat  fennel  at  the  end  of  the 
repast. 


SIDE    DISHES.  359 

For  Celery  Knobs,  with  Vinaigrette  Mayonnaise.— For  vinaigrette,  wash  the  knob,  and  put  it  to 
cook  in  boiling,  salted  water,  refresh  it,  and  cut  it  up  into  slices,  from  these  remove  some  round 
pieces  with  a  vegetable  cutter  one  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  lay  them  on  a 
deep  dish  to  marinate  in  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper.  Two  hours  later,  drain  them  off,  and  mix 
them  in  some  mayonnaise;  lay  them  in  a  line  on  a  side  dish  and  surround  them  with  anchovy 
fillets.  Decorate  with  pounded  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  mixing  in  half  the 
same  quantity  of  mayonnaise,  and  push  this  through  a  cornet;  lay  tarragon  leaves  on  the  outside, 
and  throw  over  some  finely  chopped  chervil.  If  very  tender  cut  in  thin  slices  after  being  peeled; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar,  and  cover  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce. 

(780).  CHEESE  CEUSTS  (Croutes  au  Fromage). 

Cut  slices  of  bread  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  one  and 
three-quarters  inch  wide;  fry  them  on  one  side  only  in  butter,  drain,  and  let  get  cold.  Spread 
them  over  with  fresh  butter  on  the  side  they  were  not  fried,  mixing  in  with  it  some  pepper  and 
mustard.  Cover  the  butter  with  slices  of  Chedder,  Swiss,  or  Chestershire  cheese,  place  on  top 
another  piece  of  buttered  bread,  and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(781),  CLAMS  OE  EAW  OTSTEES  ON   THE   HALP   SHELL  (Lucines  Orangees  on  Huitres  BUT 

Coquilles). 
Clams  are  prepared  and  served  the  same  as  raw  oysters  on  the  half  shell  (No.  803). 

(782).  OEAWriSH  A  LA  VINAIGEETTE  (Ecrevisses  a  la  Vinaigrette). 

Prepare  the  crawfish  as  explained  (No.  1009);  cook  them  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix 
(No.  419),  and  when  cold  shell  them  by  suppressing  the  tail  carapace  without  detaching  them  from 
the  bodies.  Dress  in  a  circle  on  a  side  dish,  pour  over  a  vinaigrette  sauce  (No.  634)  and  garnish 
the  center  with  very  green  fresh  parsley  leaves. 

(783).  OUOTJMBEES,  PEESH  SLICED,  IN  FILLETS  OE  SALTED  EUSSIAN  STYLE  (Concombres 
Frais  en  Tranches,  en  Filets  on  Sale's  k  la  Eusse). 

Sliced  Fresh  Cucumbers. — If  the  cucumbers  be  green,  small  and  seedless,  peel  and  cut  off  the 
ends;  then  pare  the  inside  into  thin  slices.  If  large  divide  them  into  two  or  four  parts  lengthwise 
before  slicing;  in  either  case  they  should  macerate  for  fifteen  minutes,  sprinkled  over  with  salt; 
when  they  have  thrown  off  the  water,  drain  and  season  with  pepper  or  mignonette,  vinegar,  oil 
and  chopped  parsley;  the  same  quantity  of  finely  chopped  onions  may  also  be  added. 

Another  way  of  preparing  them  is  to  peel  and  slice  them  simply,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  serve  on  side  dishes. 

Cucumbers  in  Fillets. — Peel  a  cucumber  and  cut  it  crosswise  into  quarter  inch  lengths,  roll 
each  piece  separately  to  form  a  long,  thin  ribbon  and  season  all  of  these  with  salt,  mignonette, 
pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  Roll  them  up  into  cork-shaped  pieces  and  mince  them  across  so  as  to 
obtain  long  fillets,  then  serve  on  a  side  dish,  pouring  more  oil  and  vinegar  over. 

Salted  Russian  Style.—  (Agoursis).     Dress  them  on  side  dishes  in  their  own  brine. 

(784).  EGGS,  BTJSTAED,  PLOVEE  AND  SEA-GULL  (ffiufe  de  Vanneanx,  de  Plnviers  et  de 

Mouettes). 

Oil  over  some  small  crimped  paper  cases,  one  inch  in  diameter,  lay  them  upside  down  on  a 
grater  and  push  in  the  oven  to  stiffen  without  coloring,  set  them  away  to  cool,  then  fill  as  high  as 
the  top  through  a  pocket  garnished  with  fresh  butter,  or  else  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  or  even  half 
of  each.  Lay  in  the  middle  of  each  case  a  bustard's  egg,  after  boiling  it  and  removing  the  shell. 
In  order  to  cook  these  eggs,  they  must  be  put  in  cold  water  and  boiled  for  eight  minutes,  then 
cooled  off,  and  the  shell  broken  gently,  remove  and 
wash  the  egg  well.  Dress  the  cases  crown-shaped  on 
a  dish,  and  garnish  the  center  either  with  water-cress  or 
else  very  green  parsley  stalks. 

(785).  GHEEKINS  (Cormchons). 

FIG.  206. 

Have  some  gherkins  prepared  as  explained  in  ele- 
mentary methods  (No.  96);  dress  them  on  a  side  dish  with  a  few  shallots,  onions  and  hot  peppers, 
adding  a  little  tarragon  and  vinegar. 


360  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(786).  HAM,  BOILED  AND  RAW  WESTPHALIAN  (Jambon  Bouilli  ou  era  de  Westphalie). 

Boiled  Ham  is  served  cut  in  thin  slices,  pared  and  dressed  crown-shaped,  garnishing  the  cen- 
ter of  the  dish  with  parsley  branches,  and  decorating 
with  chopped  jelly  around;  serve  fresh  butter  at  the 
same  time  as  the  ham. 

Westphalia  Ham  is  a  raw  ham   from  "Westphalia. 
Slice  as  finely  as  possible;   roll  each  piece  into  small 
cornets,  the  fat  part  on  the  outer  edge,  and  garnish 
the  inside  of  these  cornets  with  small  sprigs  of  very 
FIG.  sor.  green  parsley. 

(787).  HERRING,  SHAD  OR  MACKEREL,  MARINATED  (Harengs  Alose  on  Maquereau  Marine's.) 
Clean  twelve  fat  very  fresh  and  soft-roed  herrings,  or  any  other  of  the  above  fishes:  put  them 
into  a  vessel  between  layers  of  salt  and  leave  in  a  cool  place  for  twelve  hours;  drain  off.  These 
may  be  served  whole,  or  else  cut  off  their  heads  and  tails.  Mince  four  ounces  of  carrots,  two 
ounces  of  onions,  and  fry  colorless  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  two  bay  leaves,  as  much  thyme,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  teaspoon ful  of  whole  pepper  and  a  few 
bits  of  mace.  Moisten  the  whole  with  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  and  a  pint  of  water,  then  let  cook 
slowly  for  one  hour.  Lay  the  herrings  in  a  deep,  covered  vessel,  strain  the  stock  and  pour  it  over; 
boil  before  setting  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes;  let  the  herrings  get  half  cold,  then 
arrange  them  on  to  a  dish,  strain  the  gravy  over,  adding  to  it  whole  peppers,  bay  leaf,  cloves  and 
round  slices  of  blanched  onions,  and  dress  them  on  separate  side  dishes,  pour  some  of  the  pickle 
over,  and  garnish  with  the  slices  of  onions  and  half  slices  of  finely  cut  lemons. 

(788).  SMOKED  HERRINGS  (Harengs  Saurs). 

Suppress  the  heads  and  tails  from  a  few  nice  herring;  range  them  in  a  flat  saucepan,  mois- 
ten them  to  their  height  in  tepid  water,  and  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  leaving  it  there  till  the 
liquid  is  very  hot,  then  remove  them  back.  Thirty  minutes  after  drain  the  herrings,  lift  off  the 
skin,  and  wipe  them  well  with  a  cloth;  take  out  the  middle  bone;  pare  the  fillets,  coat  them  over 
with  oil  and  broil  them  lightly,  then  range  them  nicely  on  a  side  dish;  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  sprinkle  them  with  some  good  oil,  and  decorate  with  branches  or  chopped  parsley  at  each 
end,  and  half  slices  of  lemon  around. 

(789).  PAUPIETTES  OF  DUTCH  HERRINGS,  POLONAISE  (Paupiettes  de  Harengs  de  Hollande 

a  la  Polonaise). 

Unsalt  some  herrings  for  a  few  hours,  remove  their  white  skin,  and  serve  them  after  cutting 
them  across  in  four,  and  reshaping  them  again,  or  else  split  them  in  two  lengthwise,  and  pare  them 
into  oblongs.  Pound  the  trimmings  in  a  mortar  with  a  few  anchovy  fillets,  as  much  butter  as  fish 
but  no  salt,  add  lemon  juice,  then  rub  through  a  sieve,  and  add  some  finely  chopped  chervil,  tar- 
ragon and  chives;  spread  a  layer  of  this  preparation  inside  each  herring  fillet,  roll  them  up  cylin- 
drical shape,  and  dip  the  ends  in  hard  boiled  chopped  up  eggs,  one  in  the  white  and  the  other  in 
the  yolk,  and  dress  them  on  a  side  dish,  garnishing  with  fine  herbs,  and  around  with  beets 
and  capers. 

(790).  HORSERADISH  (Raifort). 

Scrape  with  a  knife  a  fine  horseradish  root.  Wash  it  well  and  let  it  soak  for  a  few  minutes 
then  dry  and  grate  it.  Put  it  into  a  vessel  with  a  little  cream,  not  making  it  too  liquid;  it  should 
be  thick  enough  to  lift  with  a  fork,  or  it  may  be  served  simply  grated,  and  laid  on  a  side  dish. 

(791).  CHOW-CHOW  (Ohow-Ohow). 

This  is  a  combination  of  different  vegetables,  preserved  in  vinegar  with  mustard  and  many 
strong  spices.  The  vegetables  composing  the  chow-chow  are  cauliflowers,  small  onions,  gherkins, 
string  beans,  and  small  carrots.  It  can  be  purchased  already  prepared.  Lay  it  simply  on  side  dishes. 

(792).  INDIAN  PICKLE  WITH  PINE  HERBS  (Acharts  aux  Fines  Herbes). 
This  is  a  product  of  East  India.     The  way  to  prepare  it  is  as  follows:   Mince  finely  slices  of 
pumpkin   and   some   small   onions,  cooking   partly  in   boiling  water;  then  trim  some  cauliflower, 
and  small  corn  two  inches  long,   and  only  half  ripe;    let   these  vegetables  lay    in  salt    for 


SIDI<;    DISHES.  361 

fifteen  days  in  an  hermetically  closed  jar,  then  unsalt  them  for  six  hours;  pour  over  strong  wine  vine- 
gar, add  some  ginger-root,  saffron  and  smaH  red  peppers,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  one  month. 
When  ready  to  use,  lay  them  on  side  dishes,  pour  a  little  oil  over,  and  sprinkle  them  over  with 
chervil,  chives  and  shallot  all  finely  chopped. 

(793).  LEMONS,  OK  AMES,  PIGS,  BLACKBERRIES  (Citrons,  Oranges,  Pigues,  Mures). 
Fresh  Fruits  Considered  as  Side  Dishes. — Arrange  any  of  these  fruits  on  grape  leaves  or 
else  on  side  dishes.     The  oranges  and  lemons  may  be  cut  into  quarters. 

(794).  LOBSTER  A  LA  BOULOGNAISE  (Bernard  k  la  Boulognaise). 

Cut  up  some  cooked  lobster  meat  into  small  quarter  inch  squares,  the  same  quantity  of  celery 
and  finely  chopped  beet  root.  Mix  all  these  with  a  little  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  adding  to  it 
chopped  up  chervil  and  tarragon  and  some  red  pepper.  Range  this  on  side  dishes  and  sprinkle 
over  the  lobster  coral  finely  chopped,  or  else  the  lobster  sprawn  and  some  chopped  parsley. 

(795).  LOBSTER  MAYONNAISE  PRINTANIERE  (Homard  Mayonnaise  Printaniere). 

Select  a  freshly  cooked  and  heavy  lobster,  cut  up  the  meat  taken  from  the  tail  and  claws  into 

slices,  and  dress  them  crown  shaped  on  a  side  dish,  and  garnish  the  center  with  the  green  creamy 

part  from  the  body.     Prepare  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606)  with  some  chervil,  tarragon  and 

lobster  coral,  all  chopped  up  finely,  cover  the  whole  of  the  lobster  with  the  mayonnaise  and  serve. 

(796).  RUSSIAN  MAOEDOINE  (Mac6doine  Russe). 

This  is  composed  of  anchovies,  marinated  tunny  fish,  cucumbers,  shrimps,  beets,  a  few  olives 
and  some  red  herring  fillets,  all  cut  into  quarter  of  an  inch  dice.  Mix  all  in  a  mayonnaise  with  finely 
chopped  tarragon,  and  arrange  it  on  side  dishes,  garnishing  with  thin  slices  of  pickled  lobsters, 
some  capers  and  chopped  parsley. 

(797).  MACKEREL  IN  OIL  (Maquereaux  a  THuile). 

These  mackerel  come  already  prepared  like  sardines  in  oil;  open  the  cans,  remove  the  mackerel 
and  dress  them  on  a  side  dish  with  chopped  parsley  around  and  surround  with  slices  of  lemon. 

(798).  SMOKED  MACKEREL  (Maquereaux  Fume's). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  the  mackerel,  remove  the  skin,  and  trim  them  into  thin  slices,  lay  these 
on  a  dish,  and  between  each,  set  a  slice  of  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Sprinkle  over  a  vinaigrette  of  oil, 
vinegar  and  pepper,  dredge  over  some  chopped  chervil,  very  tiny  squares  of  shallot  and  some 
chopped  fennel  and  tarragon  leaves. 

(799).  MUSKMELON  AND  CANTALOUPE  (Melon  Vert  Maraicher  et  Cantaloup). 
The  cantaloupe  melon  is  certainly  the  finest  and  best;  if  good  the  fruit  is  a  handsome 
orange-red,  the  sides  very  prominent  and  covered  with  a  rough  exterior  coat.  The  muskmelon 
outside  is  green,  covered  with  a  rough  gray  rind,  the  inside  of  a  green  and  yellow  color.  To  serve 
either  one  or  the  other,  set  them  in  a  cool  place  for  at  least  twelve  hours  before  using  them,  have 
them  very  cold  and  cut  either  in  halves  or  slices,  and  lay  them  on  top  of  a  grape  leaf  or  any  other 
kind.  Do  not  serve  the  side  that  laid  on  the  ground.  They  are  eaten  plain,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  or  else  sugar. 

(800).  OLIVES  ORESCENT  OR  LUOQUES,  SPANISH  QUEEN,  BLACK,  VERDALES  (Olives  Crois- 
sant ou  Lucques,  Espagnoles,  Noires,  Verdales). 
Wash  the    olives    in  fresh  water  and  serve  them 
covered  with  slightly  salted  water.     The  crescent,  black 
and  verdal  olives  come  from  the   south  of  France,  the 
Spanish  from    Seville.      Black  olives    are    served  dry 
without  any  brine;   they  come  also  from  France  and 
Italy,  and  are  for  sale  in  New  York.  FIG.  aos. 

801).  OLIVES  STUFFED  WITH  ANCHOVY  BUTTER  AND  WITH  ANCHOVIES  (Olives  Farcies 

au  Beurre  d'Anchois  et  aux  Anchois). 

Remove  the  stones  from  some  large  verdal  olives,  using  for  this  purpose  a  column  punch  five- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  diameter,  or  the  machine  (Fig.  63);  throw  them  at  once  into  cold  water. 


362  THE    EPICUREAN. 

drain,  and  garnish  them  through  a  cornet  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569).  Close  up  the  openings 
with  hard  boiled  egg-white,  or  else  a  piece  of  truffle,  either  one  cut  with  the  same  cutter,  or  capers 
may  be  used  instead. 

Olives  Stuffed  with  Anchovies. — Remove  the  stones  the  same  as  for  olives  with  anchovy  butter, 
garnish  the  insides  with  fillets  of  anchovies,  arrange  them  on  a  side  dish,  and  pour  over  a  little 
fine  oil  and  lemon  juice,  then  serve. 

(802).  PICKLED  OYSTEES  (Huitres  Mariners), 

Blanch  some  large  oysters,  drain  them  after  the  first  boil  and  keep  the  liquor;  boil  some  vine- 
gar with  cloves,  whole  pepper,  whole  allspice,  half  an  ounce  of  each  for  every  quart  of  vinegar, 
and  add  a  little  mace;  put  two-thirds  of  the  oyster  liquor  with  one-third  of  the  vinegar,  and  also 
the  oysters  into  hermetically  closed  glass  bottles,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place.  Serve  on  side 
dishes  with  sliced  lemon  and  sprigs  of  parsley  set  around. 

(803).  EAW  OYSTEES  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL  OR  LITTLE  NECK  CLAMS  (Huitres  Crues  sur 

Coquilles  on  Lucines  Orangees). 

Open  the  oysters  carefully  by  inserting  the  blade  of  the  knife  between  the  shells  and  prying 
them  open  so  as  to  avoid  breaking  and  leave  them  in  their  deep  shells  with  the  liquor.  Serve  six 
or  eight  according  to  their  size  with  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  for  each  guest.  Crackers  or  slices  of 
very  thin  bread  and  butter  can  be  served  at  the  same  time.  The  clams  are  to  be  treated  exactly 
the  same.  A  hot  sauce  or  a  shallot  sauce  made  with  finely  chopped  shallots  mixed  with  salt, 
pepper  and  vinegar,  or  else  a  pimentade  sauce  (No.  521),  can  also  be  eaten  with  the  oysters.  They 
should  only  be  opened  when  ready  to  serve  and  sent  to  the  table  on  finely  broken  ice. 

(804).  OYSTEES  TAETAEE  (Huitres  Tartare), 

Blanch  some  large  oysters,  drain  them  well,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  fine  herbs,  shallots 
cut  into  very  small  dice  and  blanched,  capers,  minced  pickled  cucumbers,  and  lobster  coral  chopped 
up  very  fine.  Have  some  thin  slices  of  bread  cut  oval  shaped  the  size  of  an  oyster,  fry  in  butter, 
place  one  oyster  on  each  and  cover  every  one  of  these  with  the  chopped  garnishing,  finish  by 
covering  all  with  a  mayonnaise  jelly  (No.  613). 

(805).  OYSTEE  OEABS,  PIOKLED  (Orabes  d'Huitres  Marine's). 

These  crabs  are  very  plentiful  in  certain  Virginia  oysters.  Boil  some  vinegar,  season  it  with 
salt,  whole  peppers,  spices,  mace,  cloves  and  bay  leaf,  throw  the  crabs  into  this  vinegar  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  oyster  liquor,  skim  it  carefully  and  remove  it  at  the  first  boil,  then  set  it  away  in 
bottles  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place.  Serve  on  side  dishes  with  slices  of  lemon  around,  and  a 
little  of  their  own  pickle  poured  over. 

(806).  GEEEN  OE  EED  PEPPEES  (Piments  Verts  ou  Eouges). 

Divide  them  into  four  parts,  or  else  cut  them  up  fine;  they  may  be  boiled  once  in  boiling 
water,  refreshed  and  seasoned  as  a  salad,  or  eaten  simply  raw  without  blanching.  If  they  are 
previously  pickled  in  vinegar,  squeeze  the  vinegar  from  them,  and  season  them  with  oil,  salt  and 
pepper,  surrounding  the  dish  with  small  white  onions. 

Red  and  sweet  peppers  are  plunged  into  hot  frying  fat  to  remove  the  first  skin,  then  cut  them 
in  two  to  broil  over  a  slow  fire,  seasoning  with  salt,  mignonette,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar. 

(807).  POTATOES,  CHIFFOOADE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Ohiffonnade). 

Cut  some  cold  cooked  potatoes  into  three-sixteenth  inch  slices,  also  some  cooked  and 
pickled  beets;  take  twenty  rounds  from  each  of  these,  using  a  cutter  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in 
diameter;  dress  them  in  a  circle  overlapping  each  other,  alternating  the  potatoes  and  beets  and 
garnish  the  center  with  cut  up  chiccory,  or  any  other  cut  up  salad;  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  fine 
herbs,  oil  and  vinegar;  cover  the  latter  with  some  thick,  ravigote  mayonnaise  (No.  612),  and  deco- 
rate the  top  with  a  few  anchovy  fillets,  tarragon  leaves  and  chopped  parsley. 


SIDE    DISHES.  363 

(808).  EADISHES,  BLACK,  AND  EED  (Eadis  Noirs  et  Eoses). 

For  the  Black  Radishes. — Choose  very  tender  ones  being  careful  that  they  are  not  hollow, 
peel  them  by  removing  the  black  rind,  then  cut  in  fine  slices  across,  and  lay  them  in  a  soup  plate  with 
a  little  salt;  cover  with  another  plate,  and  toss  the  radishes  between  the  two;  fifteen  minutes  after, 
drain  off  the  water  and  season  with  a  little  oil,  vinegar  and  pepper,  and  toss  them  again  between 
the  two  plates;  range  them  on  side  dishes.  After  the  radishes  are  sliced,  pieces  as  large  as  can  be 
obtained  may  be  cut  from  them  with  a  round  vegetable  cutter;  this  gives  them  a  finer  and  more 
even  appearance. 

For  Red  Radishes. — Cut  off  the  roots,  and  also  the  outside  leaves,  leaving  on  two  or  three  of 
the  prettiest,  smallest,  and  greenest.  Lay  the  radishes 
in  cold  water,  taking  them  out  half  an  hour  later,  and 
wash  carefully,  so  that  no  earth  adheres  to  them. 
Imitation  tulips  can  be  cut  from  radishes  using  the 
longer  ones  for  this  purpose.  Have  a  small,  sharp 
knife,  divide  the  red  peel  from  the  radish  into  five  or  six 

thin  pieces,   beginning  to  cut  from  the  bottom,   and  FIG  209 

slipping  the  knife  behind  the  skin  as  far  as  the  stem; 

shape  each  piece  on  the  tip  into  a  point,  at  the  stalk  of  the  radish;  then  lay  them  on  a  side  dish 
with  a  few  pieces  of  ice,  and  serve  fresh  butter  at  the  same  time. 

(809),  BOLLS,  SMALL  FANCY  WITH  LOBSTEE,  SHEIMP,  OEAWPISH,  FILLETS  OF  SOLE, 
CHICKEN  SALPIOON,  FOIES-GEAS  OE  EILLETTES  DE  TOUES  (Petits  Pains  tens 
de  Homard,  Orevettes,  Ecrevisses,  Filets  de  Soles,  Filets  de  Volaille  ou  Salpicon,  Foies-gras 
ou  Eillettes  de  Tours). 

Have  small  plain  rolls  three  and  one-quarter  inches  long  by  one  and  three-quarter  inches  wide. 
These  rolls  must  not  be  split  on  the  side,  but  make  an  opening  on  the  top,  reserving  the  cover. 
Empty  them  of  their  crumb,  and  fill  the  entire  insides  with  either  lobster,  crawfish,  shrimp, 
or  pressed  cold  fried  soles,  cutting  them  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil,  vinegar,  tarragon,  chervil,  and  parsley,  thickening  with  a  little  mayonnaise.  After  the  rolls 
are  filled  with  this,  lay  the  cover  on  top,  and  arrange  them  pyramidically  over  a  folded  napkin. 

For  Cliicken  or  Salpicon. — Cut  the  chicken  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  also  some  mush- 
rooms, and  the  same  quantity  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  all  the  same  size  pieces;  add  half  as 
much  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares  of  truffles,  season  with  a  mayonnaise  mixing  in  with  it  a  very 
fine  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  and  seasoning  it  all  highly,  garnish  and  serve  the  same  as  the  lobsters. 

For  Fancy  Small  Rolls  Garnished  Either  with  Chopped  Ham,  Foies-Gras  from  the  Terrine, 
or  Rillettes  de  Tours. — Make  these  rolls  smaller  than  the  others  having  them  two  and  a  quarter 
inches  long  by  one  and  a  quarter  inches  wide,  fill  them  by  making  an  incision  on  the  side,  and  in 
this  lay  the  garnishing  of  chopped  ham,  foies-gras,  or  rillettes.  They  can  also  be  served  plain 
arranged  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(810).  SALMON  WITH  SAUTEENE  WINE  (Saumon  an  vin  de  Sauterne). 
Mince  some  onions,  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan,  with  butter,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  thyme,  bay  leaves,  and  a  few  cloves  of  garlic,  fry  the  whole  slightly  in  butter,  add  whole 
pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  ground  pepper,  salt,  moisten  it  with  Sauterne  wine,  boil  and  let  simmer 
during  one  hour;  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  this  stock  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  salmon,  cover  the 
saucepan  tightly,  put  in  the  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes,  arrange  them  on  a  deep  dish,  pour  the 
stock  over  so  as  the  fish  will  be  entirely  covered  and  let  it  cool  off. 

(811).  SANDWICHES  (Sandwichs), 

To  prepare  the  butters  for  these  sandwiches  mix  it  well  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  mustard,  if 
needed  for  mustard  butter;  for  the  anchovy  butter  add  a  little  essence  of  anchovy  to  it,  and  for 
foies-gras  butter  have  half  foies-gras  and  half  butter  pounded  and  pressed  through  a  sieve. 
Cut  some  slices  of  bread-crumb  from  a  compact  loaf  without  any  holes,  having  each  one  five- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  four  inches  square.  These  slices  of  bread  may  be  toasted 
and  allowed  to  cool,  instead  of  using  them  direct  from  the  loaf;  in  both  cases,  spread  over  them 
some  mustard  butter,  as  explained  above,  when  used  for  meats  and  poultry;  use  foies-gras  butter 


3G4  THE 


for  game  and  anchovy  butter  (No.  569)  for  fish  and  crustaceans,  but  either  one  or  the  other 
can  be  used,  except  foies-gras,  as  there  is  no  special  rule  to  follow  for  buttering  sandwiches. 
Garnish  the  bread  with  thin  slices  of  meat  well  pared  and  free  of  all  fat;  on  top  of  this  meat  lay 


FIG.  211. 


FIG.  810.  FIG. 


another  slice  of  buttered  bread,  then  press  them  down  flat  one  on  top  of  the  other;  for  the 
oblongs  cut  them  four  inches  square  then  straight  through  the  center,  and  for  the  triangles 
across  from  the  two  opposite  corners.  Dress  them  in  pyramids;  for  the  oblong  ones  cut  away 
the  corners,  and  bevel  the  edges,  but  for  the  triangles  merely  bevel  them. 

(812).  BARLOW  SANDWICHES  (Sandwichs  k  la  Barlow). 

Spread  some  slices  of  bread,  crumb  over  with  mustard  butter  (No.  811),  lay  on  this  butter 
some  pickled  cucumbers,  and  on  these  some  finely  shred  and  seasoned  lettuce  hearts,  on  top  of 
this  slices  of  chicken  the  same  size  as  the  bread,  then  more  shred  lettuce  hearts,  and  the  chopped 
yolks  and  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs  over;  set  another  slice  of  buttered  bread  on  top,  and  arrange 
the  sandwiches  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(813).  SANDWICHES  OF  CHOPPED  OR  THIN  SLICED  CHICKEN  (Sandwichs  de  Volaille 

Hachee  ou  en  Tranches  Pines). 

Scrape  some  chicken  breasts  or  else  chop  them  up  finely;  mix  this  with  som;  well  seasoned 
mayonnaise  (No.  606);  spread  this  over  slices  of  buttered  bread  and  cover  with  another  slice; 
press  down,  pare  the  corners  as  explained  in  No.  811,  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(814).  GAME  SANDWICHES  (Sandwichs  de  Gibier). 

Spread  over  the  bread  with  foies-gras  butter;  on  top  lay  some  thinly  sliced  or  chopped 
tip  game,  cover  over  with  another  slice  of  bread  also  buttered  with  foies-gras  butter,  press  them 
both  together  and  pare  neatly,  then  dress  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(815).  SANDWICHES  OF  DIFFERENT  MEATS  (Sandwichs  de  Viandes  Variees). 

Use  roast  beef  or  roast  tenderloins,  cut  the  bread  in  quarter  inch  thick  slices,  coat  one  side 
with  a  layer  of  butter  prepared  with  English  mustard  and  on  these  lay  the  meats;  cover  with 
another  slice  of  buttered  bread,  pare  and  dress  on  napkins.  The  roast  beef  may  be  replaced  by 
beef  tongue  or  lamb,  corned  beef,  chopped  raw  lean  beef,  veal,  grated  ham  or  foies-gras.  Grated 
horseradish  can  be  strewn  over  the  butter  if  liked. 

(816).  FRENCH  ROLL  SANDWICHES,  AMERICAN  STYLE  AND  WITH  ANCHOVIES  (Sandwichs 

de  Flutes  &  1'Amencaine  et  aux  Anchois). 

Have  some  French  rolls,  four  inches  long  and  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  make  an  open- 
ing on  the  top,  empty  them,  removing  all  the  crumbs  possible  and  keeping  the  covers.  Cut  up 
some  roast  chicken,  the  same  quantity  of  fresh  red  beef  tongue  and  half  the  quantity  of  ham,  all 
into  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  a  few  minced  pickles  and  green  peppers,  then  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  a  little  tarragon  and  finely  shred  chervil.  Mix  the  whole  with  just  sufficient  mayonnaise 
sauce  (No.  606),  to  bind  the  ingredients  together.  The  chicken,  tongue  and  ham  may  be  replaced 
by  shrimps  cut  in  two  or  into  small  squares,  fill  the  rolls,  set  on  the  covers  and  serve  on  napkins. 

French  Roll  Sandwiches  with  Anchovies. — Prepare  the  rolls  as  for  above;  chop  up  tour  hard 
boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  separately;  put  them  into  a  bowl  with  a  pinch  of  chopped 


SIDE    DISHES.  365 

tarragon,  one  of  chervil  and  one  of  chives  all  cut  up  very  fine,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  fill  the  rolls  with  alternate  rows  of  anchovies 
and  eggs,  until  entirely  filled,  then  replace  the  covers,  and  serve  on  napkins. 

(817).  SAEDINES  MAEINATED  (Sardines  Marines). 

Range  in  layers  in  a  big  stone  vessel  about  six  pounds  of  large  fresh  sardines  besprinkling 
each  layer  with  salt,  cover  the  sardines  with  a  cloth  and  let  macerate  for  two  hours  in  a  cold  place; 
wipe  them  off  one  by  one  and  return  to  the  same  washed  vessel,  then  roll  them  in  a  little 
oil  and  place  on  a  broiler;  cook  on  a  slow  fire;  they  should  be  just  singed,  neither  dry 
nor  brown.  Remove  the  fish  and  lay  them  one  beside  the  other  in  the  same  vessel  without 
tearing  the  skin;  cover  over  with  vinegar  cooked  with  salt  and  aromatics  but  have  it  cold 
for  use  and  strained;  let  macerate  in  this  for  one  or  two  hours  according  to  its  strength. 
Take  the  sardines  out  again  and  lay  them  on  a  sieve;  when  well  drained,  range  in  layers  either  in 
a  large  crock  or  any  other  glazed  vessel,  having  a  cover  to  fit,  alternating  each  layer  by  one  of 
minced  onions,  bay  leaves  and  peppercorns.  These  sardines  can  be  kept  in  excellent  condition 
for  several  weeks. 

(818).  SAUSAGES  SMOKED;  WITH  OE  WITHOUT  GAELIC,  D'AELES,  LYONS,  MOETADELLA 
(Saucissons  Fume's  a  1'Ail  on  Sans  Ail,  d'Arles,  de  Lyon,  et  Mortadelle). 

Remove  the  skin  covering  the  sausage,  slice  it  up  finely,  and  range  it  crown-shaped  on  a  side 
dish  with  a  sprig  of  parsley  in  the  middle  and  chopped 
parsley  around. 

For  Aries  and  Lyons  Sausage. — Cut  in  very  thin 
slices,  do  not  remove  the  skin.  Slice  Mortadella  very 
thin  and  cut  each  round  into  two  or  four. 

(819).  SHEIMPS  IS  SIDE  DISHES  (Orevettes  en  Eaviers 
ou  en  Bateaux). 

FIG.  213. 

Throw  some  fine  shrimps  into  boiling  and  unsalted 

water  remove  at  the  first  boil  and  place  in  a  bowl,  sprinkle  with  salt;  leave  them  an  hour  or  two  to 
become  marinated  with  the  salt,  drain,  then  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  or  crown-shaped  on  side 
dishes,  garnishing  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and  throw  over  very  small  pieces  of  clear  ice. 

(820).  SLICED  AND  BUTTEEED  WHITE  OE  EYE  BEEAD,   SLICED  AND  EOLLED  BEEAD 

(Tartines  de  Pain  Blanc  on  de  Seigle  Benrrees,  Tartines  Eonlees). 

Cut  thin  slices  from  the  crumb  of  a  loaf  of  white  or  brown  bread,  cover  one  side  with  butter 
and  put  one  on  top  of  the  other,  the  buttered  sides  together;  pare  them  into  oblong  or  three  cor- 
nered pieces. 

Sliced  and  Rolled  Bread. — These  are  slices  of  bread  cut  very  thin,  buttered  on  one  side,  and 
rolled  up;  cover  each  roll  with  a  sheet  of  waxed  paper,  and  twist  the  ends  so  that  the  bread  is  well 
enclosed.  Bread  done  up  in  this  way  will  remain  fresh  quite  awhile. 

(821).  MAEINATED  SMELTS  (Eperlans  Marine's). 

Wipe  the  smelts,  empty  them  through  the  gills,  then  salt  and  flour  them  over;  fry  in  oil,  and 
drain  on  a  grate  until  cold.  Range  them  in  a  flat  vessel  one  closely  beside  the  other.  Put  some 
vinegar  into  a  frying  pan  with  a  little  water  and  oil,  salt,  whole  peppers,  bay  leaves,  and  minced 
onions;  boil  the  liquid  up  twice,  then  remove  and  when  cold  pour  it  over  the  smelts  and  leave  to 
macerate  for  a  few  hours  before  using. 

;822).  SMOKED  BEEF,  SALMON,  STUEGEON,  GOOSE  BEEAST,  OE  TONGUE  (Boanf  Fnrne*,  Saumon. 

Esturgeon,  Poitrine  d'oie  et  Langne.) 

Cut  the  beef  into  very  thin  slices,  and  serve  with  sprigs  of  parsley  around. 

Smoked  Salmon  or  Sturgeon.— Cut  thin  slices  of  smoked  salmon  or  smoked  sturgeon  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  broil  them  on  a  gridiron  for  one  minute  on  each  side,  and  when  they  are 
cold,  arrange  them  on  a  side  dish,  pour  a  little  sweet  oil  over,  and  serve  with  chopped  parsley  and 
slices  of  lemon  around,  or  to  be  served  raw  cut  in  thiu  slices,  and  dressed  either  in  a  circle  or 
straight  row  with  chopped  parsley  around. 


366  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Smoked  Breast  of  Goose. — Cut  the  meat  off  the  breasts  lengthwise  into  very  thin  slices;  range 
in  straight  rows  with  parsley  around  the  dish. 

Red  Beef  Tongue. — Cut  the  tongue  in  thin  equal  sized  slices,  suppressing  the  fibrous  parts 
and  fat;  range  them  in  a  circle  in  the  center  of  a  small  side  dish,  one  on  top  of  the  other; 
garnish  around  with  parsley  and  chopped  jelly  in  the  center. 

(823).  STRAW  CHEESE  (Paillettes  au  Fromage). 

These  are  made  with  parings  of  a  puff  paste  giving  it  six  turns  (No.  146);  and  dredging  over 
the  paste  at  each  turn  some  grated  parmesan  cheese  and  red  pepper,  after  it  is  rolled  out.  Then 
roll  them  very  thin,  let  them  rest  and  cut  from  the  pieces  bands  an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide,  and 
seven  inches  long;  place  them  on  a  floured  baking  sheet  close  together  but  not  touching  each 
other;  bake  them  in  a  slack  oven  so  that  they  become  dry  and  crisp. 

(824).  MARINATED  STRING  BEANS  (Haricots  Verts  Marine's). 

Blanch  lightly  a  sufficient  quantity  of  large  string  beans,  drain,  refresh,  and  set  them  in  a  stone 
crock,  and  pour  over  some  boiling  water  and  vinegar,  mixed  by  halves,  some  salt,  cloves,  and 
tarragon  leaves  added;  the  next  day  drain  off  the  vinegar,  boil  it  once  more,  and  pour  it  again 
over  the  beans,  with  some  English  mustard  diluted  in  Chili  vinegar;  serve  on  side  dishes  with  a 
little  of  the  vinegar  in  which  they  have  marinated. 

(825).  TARTLETS  OP  GAME,  LOBSTER,  SALMON  OR  NONPAREIL  (Tartelettes  de  Gibier, 

Homard,  Saumon  on  Nonpareil). 

These  are  small  round  or  oval  tartlets,  made  of  a  very  thin  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  and 
the  insides  garnished  with  buttered  paper,  and  filled  in  with  rice.  Cook  them  in  a  slack  oven, 
empty  them,  egg  over  the  edge,  and  set  them  in  a  quick  oven  to  color.  Cut  some  roast  game  in 
small  dice,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  mushrooms,  and  bind  with  a  little  light  chaufroid,  season 
well  and  serve  the  tartlets  on  folded  napkins. 

Lobster  and  Salmon  Tartlets. — Use  either  round  or  oval  tartlet  crusts,  the  same  as  for  the 
above,  garnish  the  insides  with  either  salmon  or  lobster  cut  in  dice,  and  some  mushrooms,  capers, 
fine  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  and  olive  oil;  dress  them  on  folded  napkins. 

Nonpareil  Tartlets. — Have  either  round  or  oval  tartlet  crusts;  cut  some  tunny  fish  and  an- 
chovies in  three-sixteenth  inch  dice,  also  some  beetroot,  lobster  and  pickled  cucumbers  the  same  size, 
stoned  olives  cut  across  in  thin  slices,  shrimp  tails,  three-sixteenth  inch  dice  of  celery  knob;  season 
and  fill  the  tartlets  with  this;  dredge  over  the  tops  with  truffles,  parsley,  lobster  coral,  and 
pistachio  nuts,  all  chopped  up  separately  and  minutely,  and  cover  over  with  partly  thickened 
jelly. 

(826).  TOASTS  A  LA  WADDINGTON  (Roties  a  la  Waddington). 

Trim  some  slices  of  bread-crumbs  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  oval  shaped,  two  and  a  half 
inches  long  by  two  inches  wide;  toast  them  lightly  and  cover  one  side  with  chopped  ham  and  butter 
mixed.  Remove  the  stones  from  some  large  verdal  olives,  cut  off  the  ends,  and  then  slice  them 
into  three  pieces,  so  as  to  make  rings  each  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  high;  lay  them  in  a 
circle  on  the  toast,  on  the  outer  edge,  and  fill  each  alternate  olive  ring  with  chopped  up  hard 
boiled  egg-white,  and  the  rest  of  them  with  the  yolks  prepai'ed  the  same.  Make  a  turban  with  one 
or  two  anchovies  inside  of  these,  fill  this  with  chopped  beetroot  and  cover  the  whole  with  jelly 
having  the  consistency  of  syrup.  Serve  them  very  cold,  arranging  them  in  form  of  a  crown  on  a 
folded  napkin,  with  sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  center. 

(827).  TOASTED  BREAD  GARNISHED  WITH  CHICKEN,  BACON,  CHOPPED  CHICKEN,  AND 
PEPPERS  (Tranches  de  Pain  Grilles  Garnies  de  Ponlet,  Petit  Sal6,  Poulet  Hache"  et 
Piments). 

These  are  slices  of  bread  toasted  on  both  sides,  and  left  to  get  cold.  They  are  generally  but- 
tered with  mustard  or  anchovy  butter  (No.  569),  and  on  one  side  over  the  butter  lay  the  necessary 
garnishing  without  covering  it  again.  They  can  be  made  with  roast-beef  and  horseradish,  or 
caviare,  foies-gras,  anchovies,  sardines,  hot  roast  beef  with  gravy,  chicken,  bacon,  and  lettuce, 
chopped  chicken  and  green  peppers,  also  broiled  sardines. 


SIDE    DISHES.  367 

(828).  TROUT  FEIED  AND  MAR1NATED-SMALL  (Petites  Truites  Frites  et  Marinees). 
Select  some  fresh  trout,  empty  and  wipe  well;  salt  over,  dip  in  flour  and  fry  in  oil  a  few  at  a 
time,  then  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish.  Heat  some  oil  in  a  saucepan,  mix  with  it  a  quarter 
as  much  vinegar  as  water,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  basil,  sliced  onions  and  cloves;  cook  this  marinade 
half  an  hour  on  a  very  slow  fire  and  let  it  get  partly  cold,  then  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  leave  to 
marinate  for  six  hours  before  serving.  Dress  them  on  a  dish  with  a  little  of  their  marinade 
and  some  slices  of  lemon. 

(829).    TROUT  MARINATED  IN  WINE-SMALL  (Marinade  de  Petites  Truites  au  Yin). 

After  the  fish  are  cleaned,  salt  them  over  for  one  hour,  cook  them  in  strongly  acidulated 
water,  drain  and  range  them  in  a  deep  vessel  or  a  small  barrel  covered  with  slices  of  lemon. 
Prepare  a  court  bouillon  without  water,  using  only  white  wine  and  vinegar,  rings  of  white  onions, 
a  sprig  of  parsley,  salt,  spices  and  aromatics;  put  it  on  to  boil  and  when  the  onions  become  soft, 
lift  them  out  with  a  skimmer  and  lay  them  on  the  trout  and  pour  into  the  stock  an  equal  quantity 
of  aspic  jelly  (No.  103),  strain  this  over  the  fish  and  let  cool  off  on  ice.  Serve  the  trout  on  a  dish 
with  the  slices  of  lemon  and  onion  around  and  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful  of  persillade 
sauce  (No.  619). 

(830).  TRUFFLES  (Truffes). 

Select  those  that  are  small  and  very  round,  brush  over,  and  peel.  Set  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  place  them  on  the  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
being  careful  to  watch  that  they  do  not  boil;  a  little  fire  can  also  be  placed  on  the  cover;  then  drain 
and  arrange  them  in  a  glass  bottle  filling  it  with  Aix  oil,  and  closing  hermetically.  To  serve 
truffles,  drain  them  off,  dress,  and  to  the  oil  add  a  little  lemon  juice. 

(831).  MARINATED  TUNNY  FISH,  SARDINES,  GURNET  AND  AOOOLA  (Thon  Marine,  Sardines, 

Grondins  et  Accola). 

Red  gurnet  and  accola  are  smaller  than  the  tunny  fish,  the  meat  being  very  white  and  delicate. 
Tunny  fish  comes  already  prepared  in  boxes  the  same  as  sardines;  open  them,  drain  them  from  the 
oil,  either  one  or  the  other,  but  from  the  sardines  wipe  off  their  skin.  Lay  them  on  side  dishes, 
sprinkling  over  some  fresh  oil,  and  garnish  around  with  chopped  parsley,  capers,  sliced  lemon  or 
Seville  oranges;  serve  slices  of  buttered  bread  at  the  same  time. 

For  Gurnet  or  Accola. — Cut  it  in  slices,  season,  cover  with  oil  and  broil  the  pieces;  when  cold 
dress  them  crown-shaped  or  lengthwise,  sprinkle  over  some  more  oil,  and  garnish  around  with 
parsley,  chopped  eggs  and  slices  of  lemon. 

(832).  TURBOT  OR  RED  SNAPPER  MARINATED  (Turbot  ou  Red  Snapper  Marine"). 
Mince  up  some  onions,  put  them  in  a  sautoire  with  a  piece  of  butter,  adding  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  a  few  cloves  of  garlic,  white  pepper,  grated  nutmeg, 
ground  pepper  and  salt.  Fry  them  slightly  in  the  butter,  then  add  some  Sauterne  wine,  and  let 
simmer  for  one  hour;  pass  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  return  to  the  sauteing-pan;  add  to 
it  either  some  turbot  or  red  snapper,  cover  well,  and  set  it  in  the  oven  for  thirty  minutes;  remove 
from  the  saucepan  to  cool  in  a  deep  dish,  with  the  liquid  covering  the  fish,  then  drain  and  dress 
the  fish,  pour  some  of  the  liquid  over  and  garnish  with  sliced  lemon. 

(833).  GREEN  WALNUTS  (Cerneaux). 

When  the  juice  is  in  the  almond  state,  break  them  in  two,  detach  the  white  parts  with  a  circu- 
lar movement,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water  in  which  a  little  powdered  alum  has  been  dissolved; 
drain  through  a  colander,  and  throw  over  a  handful  of  white  salt,  two  finely  cut  up  shallots,  and 
put  them  into  a  salad  bowl,  adding  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  roll  them  in  their  seasoning,  and  serve 
on  side  dishes. 

(834).  PICKLED  GREEN  WALNUTS  (Oerneaux  Confits). 

These  walnuts  come  ready  prepared;  serve  on  side  dishes  with  a  little  of  their  liquor. 
Walnuts  preserved  in  sugar  and  drained,  then,  laid  in  a  vessel  with  vinegar,  cloves  and  ginger 
make  an  excellent  hors-d'oeuvre. 


368  THE    EPICUREAN. 

HOT  SIDE  DISHES  (Hors-d'(Euvre  Chauds), 


The  hors-d'oeuvre  is  composed  of  certain  dishes  served  after  the  soup,  somewhat  taking  the 
place  of  those  formerly  called  "flying  dishes,"  for  they  did  not  appear  on  the  table,  but 
were  passed  directly  to  the  guests. 

(835).  ANCHOVY  FRITTERS  (Beignets  d'Anchois). 

Prepare  some  very  thin  pancakes,  cut  them  into  narrow  strips,  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
wide,  by  three  inches  long,  cover  them  with  a  layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  with 
raw  fine  herbs  added,  set  on  top  half  of  a  well  cleaned  anchovy,  then  roll 
them  over,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color.  The  anchovy 
fillets  may  be  prepared  by  arranging  them  crown-shaped  and  filling  the  centers 
with  a  quenelle,  then  dipping  them  in  frying  paste  to  cover  well,  and  fry  them 
immediately  in  frying  fat  over  a  hot  fire,  drain,  -wipe  and  salt.  Dress  the  fritters 
on  folded  napkins  and  garnish  the  tops  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 

(836).  ATTEREAUX  OF  BEEF  PALATE  (Attereaux  de  Falais  de  Bceuf). 

Obtain  some  round  tin  cases,  two  and  one-quarter  inches  deep,  the  bottom  being 
one  and  three-eighths  inches  in  diameter,  while  the  top  is  an  inch  and  five-eighths; 
the  bottom  must  be  perforated  with  a  hole  so  as  to  allow  the  skewer  to  pass  through 
and  fasten  on  to  a  piece  of  bread.  Cut  some  rounds  of  well  pressed  beef  palate, 
one  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter  by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  have 
as  many  pieces  of  truffles  and  mushrooms,  both  of  them  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Reduce  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407), 
with  some  jelly.  Run  on  to  small  silver  skewers,  first  a  piece  of  palate,  then  alternate  with  a 
piece  of  mushroom,  then  another  round  of  palate  and  truffle;  set  each  skewer  into  a  round  case, 
and  fill  them  up  with  the  partly  cold  prepared  sauce;  when  cold,  unmold  by  dipping  in  hot 
water,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  serve  on 
folded  napkins. 

(837),  ATTEREAUX  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  D'ANTIN  (Atte~reaux  de  Poulet  &,  la  d'Antin), 
Braise  the  chickens  and  leave  them  to  cool  in  their  stock;  remove  the  fillets,  pare  them  of 
their  fat,  and  take  away  all  the  skin  and  bones;  cut  them  up  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick 
slices,  and  then  into  one  inch  squares.  Cut  up  some  mushrooms  the  same  size  and  thickness,  and  as 
much  truffles;  put  all  of  these  in  a  dish  and  cover  with  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  having  it  well 
reduced;  mix  into  this  sauce  some  chervil  chopped  finely  and  cooked  colorless  in  butter,  also  some 
fresh  mushrooms,  truffles,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  tarragon.  When  the  ingredients 
are  almost  cold,  thread  first  a  square  of  chicken,  then  one  of  mushroom,  and  one  of  truffle. 
cover  evenly  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce,  having  it  nearly  cold;  let  cool  off  completely,  pare 
them  of  uniform  shape  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  egg  smoothing  the  bread-crumbs 
neatly  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  fry  in  hot  frying  fat  until  they  attain  a  fine  color,  and  the 
heat  has  penetrated  them  throughout.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(838).  ATTEREAUX  OF  FAT  LIVERS  (Atte~reaux  de  Foies-Gras). 

Cook  some  foies-gras  cut  into  one-inch  squares  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  pieces,  lay 
them  in  a  vessel,  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of  the  same  sized  squares  of  cooked  red  beef  tongue; 
season  with  paprika,  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  finely  chopped  truffles;  sprinkle  over  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  sufficient  to  cover,  and  run  through  these  pieces  of  liver  and 
tongue  small  wooden  or  metal  skewers;  when  cold  pare  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  in 
beaten  eggs,  and  bread-crumb  them  once  more,  smoothing  the  bread-crumbs,  then  plunge  them  into 
hot  frying  fat  and  fry  them  a  fine  color;  dress  on  folded  napkins  and  surround  with  slices  of 
lemon. 


SIDE    DISHES.  369 

(839).  ATTEREAUX  OP  OYSTERS  (Atte"reaux  d'Huitres). 

Blanch  medium-sized  oysters;  drain,  wipe  and  run  small  wooden  skewers  through  them, 
alternating  each  oyster  with  a  slice  of  mushroom;  cover  with  a  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  let  get 
cold,  and  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs;  bread-crumb  again,  smooth  the 
breading,  and  fry  the  attereaux  into  hot  frying  fat,  drain  and  replace  the  wooden  skewers  by 
metal  ones,  and  finish  by  dressing  them  pyramidically  on  a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(840).    ATTEREAUX  PIEDMONTESE  (Attfreaux  Pie"montaise). 

Make  a  preparation  of  consistent  cooked  polenta,  finished  with  butter  and  grated  parmesan; 
spreading  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  from  this  round  pieces  an  inch  and  a  quarter 
in  diameter,  also  some  white  Piemont  truffles  an  inch  across  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness; pieces  of  fresh  Swiss  cheese,  three-quarters  by  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  and  run  these 
alteratelyon  skewers,  first  the  polenta,  then  the  cheese  and  truffles;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color. 

(841).  ATTEREAUX  OF  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  MODERNE  (Atte~reaux  de  Ris  de  Veau  a  la 

Moderne). 

It  requires  for  the  preparation  of  these  atte*reaux,  some  cylindrical  shaped  tin  molds,  each  one 
being  two  and  a  quarter  inches  deep,  the  bottom  one  and  a  quarter  inches,  having  a  perforated 
hole  to  pass  the  skewer  through;  the  top  of  the  mold  must  measure  an  inch  in  diameter.  Cut 
some  cold  sweetbreads  into  slices,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  these  remove, 
with  a  round  cutter,  pieces  one  inch  in  diameter.  Have  also  rounds  of  truffles,  and  the  same 
of  tongue,  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  across,  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Mix  all  these  together 
in  a  vessel  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  thickening  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402); 
let  get  cold,  then  run  them  on  to  small  silver  skewers,  alternating  the  truffles  with  tongue  and 
sweetbreads:  lay  the  molds  on  a  large  piece  of  buttered  bread-crumbs  (Fig.  490),  set  the  skewers 
into  the  molds,  and  let  them  penetrate  through  the  holes  into  the  bread  to  keep  them  upright, 
and  fill  the  empty  space  in  the  cases  with  a  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560);  set  them  aside  on  the  ice  to 
get  perfectly  cold;  unmold  by  dipping  them  into  hot  water;  bread-crumb  the  attereaux,  dip  them 
in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  fine  color  in  hot  frying  fat;  drain  on  a  cloth, 
and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(842).  ATTEREAUX  OF  TURKEY  OR  GAME  (Attereaux  de  Dindon  ou  de  Gibier). 

Take  the  white  meat  from  a  roast  turkey  or  some  game,  and  cut  it  into  slices  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  in  thickness;  with  a  round  cutter  remove  pieces  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter.  Prepare  some  truffles  and  mushrooms  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  by  an  eighth  in  thick- 
ness; mix  all  these  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  with  cooked  fine  herbs  added,  and 
run  them  alternately  on  to  small  silver  skewers;  bread-crumb  them  as  above  and  fry. 

(843).  BATEAUX  OF  FAT  LIVERS,  RUSSIAN  STYLE  (Bateaux  de  Foies-Gras  a  la  Russe). 

Butter  some  boat-shaped  tartlet  molds,  and  line  them  with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62),  leav- 
ing an  empty  space  in  the  center  which  fill  with  a  cooked  and  pounded  foies-gras  preparation 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  mixed  with  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  chopped  mushrooms,  also  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492).  Cover  this  preparation  with  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat, 
and  put  the  molds  to  poach  in  a  slow  oven  in  a  baking  pan,  with  a  little  boiling  water  poured 
into  the  bottom.  Cool  them  off  slightly  before  unmolding,  then  bread-crumb  them,  English  style 
(No.  13),  plunge  them  in  hot  fat  to  heat  well  while  coloring,  drain  and  dress  on 
napkins. 

(844).  BONBONS  OF  PICKEREL  A  LA  WALTON  (Bondons  de  Brochet  a  la  Walton), 
Butter  some  cylindrical  molds  the  shape  of  a  cask  bung,  one  and  three-auarter  inches 
high,  one  and  three-eighths  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  one  and  five-eighths  inches  at  the  top  or 
opening.  Prepare  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  as  follows:  Half  a  pound  of  pickerel,  six  ounces 
of  butter,  four  egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132),  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  two  egg-whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Fill  the  molds  with  this  forcemeat,  and  finish  as 
explained  in  No.  884.  Serve  separately  a  salpicon  made  of  oysters  or  mussels,  and  crawfish  or 
lobster,  cut  in  dice,  and  some  mushrooms;  mix  with  as  much  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477)  as 
bdchamel  (No.  409). 


370  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(845).  BONDONS  OF  WOODCOCK  A  LA  DIANE  (Bondons  de  Brasses  a  la  Diane). 

Butter  some  cylindrical  molds  the  same  size  and  shape  as  those  for  No.  844.  Fill  them  with 
a  woodcock  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  finish  exactly  as  for  timbales;  nnmold  and 
dress.  Serve  separately  a  sherry  sauce  (No.  492),  with  small  three-sixteenth  inch  dice  of  ham  and 
truffles  added. 

(846).  BRESSOLES  OF  CHICKEN  (Bressoles  de  Volaille). 

Have  some  oval  molds  buttered  the  same  as  for  the  foies-gras  (No.  848)  they  should  be  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  high;  cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  quenelle  forcemeat  either  of  chicken 
or  game  (No.  62).  For  chicken  bressoles  mix  in  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  a  third  as  much 
puree  of  foies-gras  and  in  the  center  place  a  salpicon  of  chicken  a  la  Reine  (No.  938). 

(847).  BRESSOLES  OF  GAME  (Bressoles  de  Gibier). 

Take  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  not  too  solid  and  fill  the  center  of  the  breseole  with  a 
salpicon  of  foies-gras,  truffles  and  mushrooms  combined  with  a  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492); 
finish  and  serve  as  the  foies-gras  bressoles. 

(848).  BRESSOLES  OF  FAT  LIVERS  Bressoles  de  Foies-gras). 

Butter  some  quarter-inch  high,  oval  shaped  molds;  fill  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  foies- 
gras  forcemeat  (No.  78). 

For  the  Foies-Gras  Bressoles. — After  covering  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  the  foies-gras  que- 
nelle forcemeat,  lay  over  a  slice  of  foies-gras,  and  cover  this  with  a  little  montglas  salpicon  (No. 
747);  set  one  mold  on  top  of  the  other,  so  as  to  enclose  the  foies-gras  and  montglas,  and  plunge 
them  into  boiling  water  to  poach  the  contents;  unmold,  drain  on  a  cloth,  and  leave  them  stand 
until  they  are  cold,  then  pare  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs;  roll  them  in  fresh  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  just  previous  to  serving,  fry  them  a  fine  golden 
color;  drain,  and  dress  them  crown-shaped  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  in  the 
center. 

(849).  BRISSOTINS  OF  CHICKEN,  SUPREME  (Brissotins  de  Volaille  au  Supreme). 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  brissotins  of  game  Lyonnese  (No.  850)  only  replacing  the  game 
salpicon  by  a  chicken  a  la  Reine  salpicon  (No.  938)  and  the  game  forcemeat  by  a  chicken  and  cream 
forcemeat  (No.  75).  Use  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  with  these. 

(850).   BRISSOTINS  OF  GAME,  LYONNESE  (Brissotins  de  Gibier  a  la  Lyonnaise). 
Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  fill  them  with  game  and  cream  foi'cemeat  (No. 
75),  and  poach  in  a  slow  oven,  laying  them  in  a  baking  pan  and  pouring  boiling  water  around  to 
half  the  height  of  the  molds;  when  firm  to  the  touch,  remove  from  the  oven, 
and  let  them  get  thoroughly  cold.     With  a  tube  measuring  five-eighths  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  less  than  the  bottom  of  the  mold,  remove  the  center  of  the  force- 
meat, and  from  this  piece  cut  two  slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness; put  one  of  these  slices  into  the  empty  space  in  the  timbale,  cover  with  a 
game  chasseur  salpicon  (No.   745),  and  lay  the  other  slice  on  top,  as  shown  in 
Fro  215          *he  accompanying  figure  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the 
surfaces  nicely,  and  mark  the  end  with  the  tube  that  has  been  used  to  remove  the 
center  and  fry  a  nice  color,  now  lift  off  the  marked    slices  or  rounds,    fill  the  inside  with  a 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  put  the  piece  back  again  in  place  of  a  cover  and  serve. 

(851)  BRISSOTINS  OF  LOBSTER,  INDIAN  STYLE  (Brissotins  de  Homard  a  1'Indienne). 

To  be  made  precisely  the  same  as  the  game  Lyonnese  (No.  850),  only  replacing  the  game 
salpicon  by  a  lobster  and  mushroom  salpicon  (No.  746),  thickened  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
and  curry,  and  use  pike  forcemeat  (No.  76),  instead  of  game  forcemeat.  Finish  with  an  Indian 
sauce  (No.  483). 

(852).  CANAPE'S  BARTHOLOMEW  (Canapes  BarthSlemy), 

Cut  slices  of  bread  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  pare  them  by  shaping  them  into  three  and 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  lengths,  and  have  them  two  inches  and  an  eighth  wide.  Cut  off  from  the  four 


SIDE    DISHES.  371 

corners,  quarter  inch  triangles,  and  dip  the  bread  into  melted  bntter,  roll  them  in  grated  parmesan 
and  set  them  on  a  dish  that  can  be  placed  in  the  oven,  lay  on  top  thin  slices  of  cooked  ham,  and 
cover  the  whole  with  melted  Stilton  cheese,  season  with  red  pepper,  and  put  the  dish  into  a  hot 
oven  for  one  minute;  serve  them  either  on  the  same  dish  or  else  on  a  napkin. 

(853).  CANAPE'S  BROWNSON  (Canape's  k  la  Brownson). 

Pare  some  slices  of  bread  the  same  as  for  the  Bartholomew  (No.  852),  then  toast  them,  cover 
one  side  with  a  fine  puree  of  potatoes  (No.  725),  and  set  on  top  thin  slices  of  interlarded  corned 
beef  fried  in  butter,  and  over  another  layer  of  the  potato  puree,  trim  them  neatly  and  dip  them  in 
beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  bread  crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  lay  them 
on  a  baking  sheet;  sprinkle  over  some  butter,  dust  the  tops  with  grated  parmesan  cheese,  and  brown 
them  in  a  hot  oven;  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(854).  CANAPES  OF  GAME  (Canapes  de  Gibier). 

Prepare  slices  of  bread  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  cutting  them  three  inches  long  and  two 
inches  wide,  pars  them  into  ovals,  make  an  incision  all  around  by  sinking  the  knife  down  to  half 
the  depth  of  the  bread,  fry  them  in  butter,  and  empty  them  out.  Have  one 
ounce  of  cooked  game,  either  snipe,  plover,  or  partridge;  one  ounce  of  cooked 
mushrooms  and  one  ounce  of  truffles,  all  cut  in  fillets  one-eighth  of  an  inch  by 
one-half  of  an  inch.  Break  up  the  game  carcasses  moisten  them  with  Ma- 
deira wine  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  let  it  reduce  well,  then  strain 
through  a  tammy  (No.  170).  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  the  prepared 
salpicon,  mix  it,  and  fill  the  bread  crusts  with  this  preparation;  lay  over  a  few  thin  slices 
of  foies-gras,  cover  these  dome-shaped  with  game  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  set  them  into  a  mod- 
erate oven,  when  done,  brush  over  the  tops  a  little  glaze  (No.  402),  and  put  in  the  oven  an  instant 
to  harden,  then  serve. 


(855).  CANAPES  LORENZO  (Canapes  a  la  Lorenzo). 

Fry  colorless  two  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  when  done 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  let  this  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  mois- 
ten with  a  pint  of  fresh  cream;  season  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  reduce  it  to  the 
consistency  of  a  well  thickened  sauce;  now  throw  in  one  pound  of  crab  meat  sauted  in  butter  over  a 
brisk  fire  in  a  pan,  letting  it  boil  up  once  and  then  set  it  away  to  cool.  Cut  slices  of  bread  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  from  it  cut  round  pieces  four  inches  in  diameter,  using  a  cutter 
for  this  purpose;  divide  them  straight  through  the  center  to  make  two  even-sized  pieces 
of  each,  toast  them  on  one  side  only;  cover  this  side  with  two  ounces  of  the  crab  prep- 
aration for  each  half  round,  and  lay  the  following  preparation  on  top:  with  the  hands  work  in  a  tin 
basin  half  a  pound  of  butter,  add  to  it  grated  parmesan  cheese,  cayenne  and  white  pepper,  and 
knead  these  together,  adding  grated  parmesan  so  as  to  form  a  thick  paste;  cover  the  entire  canape 
with  a  layer  of  this  butter  and  cheese,  and  set  them  on  a  buttered  baking-sheet  in  the  hot  oven  so 
they  attain  a  fine  color,  then  serve  them  as  quickly  as  they  are  removed  from  the  oven.  They  may 
be  made  round  shaped  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  if  preferred. 

(856).  CANAPES  MARTHA  (Canapes  a  la  Martha). 

Muffins  three  inches  in  diameter  are  used  for  these  canapes;  cut  them  through  the  center  and 
toast  them  without  burning,  then  cover  with  two  ounces  of  lobster  croquette  preparation  (No.  880); 
spread  it  on  flat,  lay  over  each  a  thin  slice  of  Swiss  cheese  exactly  the  same  size  as  the  muffins, 
dust  over  with  bread  raspings  and  grated  parmesam  and  brown  them  in  the  oven. 

(857).  CANAPES  OF  SWEETBREADS  (Canapes  de  ris  de  Veau). 

Cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares  one-half  pound  of  braised  sweetbreads,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  cooked  mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of  lean  cooked  ham-,  fry  all  with  four  ounces  of 


372  THE    EPICUREAN. 

butter,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  a  little  broth 
(No.  189)  thickened  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  the  sauce  till 
nearly  dry,  then  stir  in  three  egg-yolks  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Prepare  some  slices  of 
bread  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  and  one  and  a  half  inches  by  two  and  three-quarters; 
toast  them,  cover  with  the  preparation  the  same  thickness  as  the  bread,  smooth  the  surfaces 
and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  very  hot  fat;  serve 
on  a  folded  napkin. 

(858).  CANNELONS  OE  BEEF  PALATE  OE  LAMBS'  SWEETBEEADS  AND  CELEEY 

(Oannelons  de  Palais  de  Boeuf  ou  de  Eis  d'Agneau  et  Celeri). 

Cut  eighth  of  an  inch  square  pieces  from  a  cold  braised  and  pressed  beef  palate,  add  to  it  an 
equal  quantity  of  mushrooms  and  half  as  many  truffles,  then  mix  this  salpicon  with  a  well  reduced 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  Roll  out  some  eight-turn  puff  paste  to  the  thickness  of  one  six- 
teenth of  an  inch,  wet  this  paste  slightly  and  cut  it  into  half  inch  wide  bands.  Butter  the  exterior 
of  some  cylindrical  molds,  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  by  two  and  a  half  inches  long; 
apply  the  bands  on  to  these,  turning  them  around  so  that  half  the  paste  of  one  row  overlaps  half 
of  the  last  one,  and  continue  until  the  cylinder  is  well  covered;  egg  them  over  twice  and  cook  them 
in  a  hot  oven,  remove,  unmold  and  place  each  on  a  square  of  buttered  paper,  fill  with  some  chicken 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  garnish  the  center  with  the  above  prepared  salpicon,  and  finish  the 
bottom  and  top  with  more  forcemeat,  then  set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten 
minutes.  Range  them  on  folded  napkins  and  serve.  Instead  of  beef  palates, 
lamb  sweetbreads  and  celery  mixed  with  an  allemande  sauce,  may  be  substituted 
and  finished  exactly  the  same. 


(859).  OANNELONS  WITH  PUEEE  OF  CHICKEN  OE  GAME  (Oannelons  &  la  Purge 

de  Volaille  ou  de  Gribier). 

Butter  the  outsides  of  some  tin  cornets,  two  and  a  half  inches  by  one  and  a 
half  inches,  roll  around  them  a  thinly  rolled  out  half  inch  band  made  of  puff  paste 
FIG.  217.        trimmings,  overlapping  half  of  the  paste  at  each  round,  lay  them  on  a  slightly 
dampened  baking  sheet,  egg  over  twice,  and  cook  them   lying  flat  in  a  hot  oven, 
when  done,  pull  out  the  tin  cornets,  and  set  the  cannelons  upright,  the  wide  opening  at  the  top, 
and  the  point  pared  in  such  a  manner  that  they  are  all  of  an  exact  height,  keep  them  in  this 
position  by  placing  them  in  a  paupiette  mold;  and  fill  the  insides  of  the  cannelons  either  with 
a  game  puree  (No.  716),  or  a  chicken  puree  (No.  713).     Cover  the  wide  opening  with  game  or 
chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89)  according  to  its  contents,  and  set  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  ten  minutes, 
then  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(860).  CASSOLETTES  LUSIG/NY  (Cassolettes  &  la  Lusigny). 

Fill  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  butter  melted  to  the  consistency  of  cream,  leave 
to  cool,  then  dip  them  into  very  hot  water  and  unmold,  roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  dip  in 
beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  again  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs;  smooth 
neatly  with  a  knife  and  slit  around  the  top  with  a  pastry  cutter  dipped  in  hot  water, 
this  should  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter  smaller  than  the  timbale  itself;  fry  a  few 
at  the  time  in  very  hot  frying  fat,  and  when  of  a  fine  color,  remove  the  covers,  stand 
them  on  a  grate,  at  the  oven  door  and  let  all  the  butter  drain  out.  Cut  up  some  un- 
smoked,  salted  tongue,  mushrooms,  truffles,  and  chicken,  into  small  quarter  inch  FIG.  218. 
oquares,  combine  this  salpicon  with  buttered  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  fill  the 
Cassolettes,  and  place  on  top  a  round  of  truffle  the  size  of  the  opening  to  take  the  place  of  a  cover; 
it  should  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

(861).  CASSOLETTES,  MONTHOLON  (Cassolettes  a  la  Montholon). 

Procure  timbale  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137),  fill  these  with  butter  melted  to  a  cream,  and  let 
get  \erycold;  unmold  by  dipping  them  into  hot  water,  and  stand  them  away  on  the  ice  until 
hard,  then  dip  them  into  powdered  crackers,  and  in  beaten  eggs,  also  in  bread-crumbs,  again  in 
the  eggs,  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  once  more,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife,  and  form  an  incision  on  the  top  with  a  round  pastry  cutter  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
ammeter;  plunge  them  into  very  hot  frying  fat,  lift  off  the  cover,  and  turn  them  over  on  to  a 


SIDE    DISHES.  373 

grate  placed  over  a  tin  pan,  and  set  them  at  the  oven  door;  when  the  butter  has  entirely  melted, 
fill  the  insides  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  beef  palates,  and  sweetbreads,  mixed  with  supreme 
sauce  (No.  547),  lay  on  top  a  cover  made  of  a  fluted  and  glazed  mushroom,  and  serve  hot. 

(862).  OELESTINES  WITH  FOIES-GEAS  AND  PUEEE  OP  CHESTNUTS  (destines  au  Poies-Gras 

a  la  Pure"e  de  Marions). 

Put  on  the  fire  to  reduce  about  two  or  three  gills  of  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  incorporating  into 
it  slowly,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  glaze  (No.  402);  when  succulent  and  thick  the  same  as  a  montglas, 
add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles,  then  withdraw  the  saucepan  from  the  fire.  Cut  from  half 
of  a  cooked  foies-gras,  ten  or  twelve  crosswise  slices  not  having  them  too  thin,  pare  these  into 
drawn  out  half  inches  all  of  the  same  size;  season,  glaze  over  with  a  brush,  and  cover  one  side 
with  the  truffle  preparation  mixed  with  the  parings  of  foies-gras  pounded  and  strained,  smooth 
and  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  raw  forcemeat,  then  roll  the  celestines  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  in 
egg,  and  plunge  a  few  at  the  time  into  hot  fat  so  as  to  color  as  well  as  heat  them.  Drain  and 
dress  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  chestnut  puree  (No.  712),  in  the  center. 

(863).  OOOKS'-OOMBS  STUFPED,  DUXELLE  (Oretes  de  Ooqs  Farcies  &  la  Duxelle). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  cocks'-combs  the  same  as  cocks'-kidneys  (No.  864),  cool,  drain,  and  cut  an 
incision  in  them  filling  it  in  with  Duxelle  (No.  385),  mingled  with  a  little  chicken  forcemeat  (No. 
89),  cover  them  with  a  well  reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  to  which  has  been  added  a  little 
jelly,  let  these  get  very  cold,  and  then  dip  them  into  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  plunge  in  very  hot 
frying  fat,  and  fry  till  a  fine  color.  Dress  on  folded  napkins,  and  decorate  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
on  top. 

(864).  OOCKS'-KLDNEYS  YILLEEOI  (Eognons  de  Ooq  &  la  Villeroi). 

Cook  some  cocks'-kidneys  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419)  moistened  with  mushroom  broth;  when  cold, 
drain,  and  dip  them  in  a  well  reduced  and  thick  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  into  which  has  been  added 
a  little  jelly  and  finely  chopped  mushrooms,  and  some  chopped  parsley;  when  cold  dip  in  beaten 
eggs,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  in  a  pyramid  form,  and  deco- 
rate with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 

(865).  COLOMBINES  OF  CHICKEN  LIVEES  WITH   HAM  (Oolombines  de  Poles  de  Volaille  au 

Jambon). 

Put  on  to  reduce  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  incorporating  into  it  one  gill  of 
mushroom  broth  and  one  spoonful  of  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  little  red 
pepper;  take  off  the  fire,  and  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  chicken  livers,  and  as  much  cooked  ham, 
both  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares.  Have  a  pound  of  boiled  rice  that  has  had  a  little  butter 
and  parmesan  stirred  into  it,  and  with  this  line  some  hollow  tartlet  molds,  leaving  an  empty  space 
in  the  middle;  fill  this  in  with  the  above  preparation,  and  cover  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  same 
rice,  then  let  them  get  quite  cold.  Unmold,  and  lay  them  first  in  grated  parmesan,  then  in  beaten 
eggs,  and  lastly  in  white  bread-crumbs;  smooth  them  nicely  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  plunge  them 
into  boiling  frying  fat,  a  few  at  the  time,  in  order  that  they  attain  a  good  color,  then  drain  and 
range  them  on  folded  napkins. 

(866).  OOLOMBINES  OP  FOIES-GEAS  (Oolombines  de  Foies-Gras), 

Have  a  piece  of  cooked  foies-gras  cut  into  small  dice,  mix  in  with  it  half  as  much  cooked 
chopped  truffles.  Reduce  a  little  good  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  incorporating  slowly  into  it  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  and  the  truffle  broth;  when  properly  thickened  add  the 
salpicon,  remove  the  saucepan  at  once  from  the  fire,  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Prepare  a  rather 
consistent  semolino  preparation  with  broth,  and  after  it  is  finished,  reduce  for  two  minutes  to 
obtain  a  body,  then  withdraw  and  add  butter,  parmesan  and  two  diluted  egg-yolks.  With  this 
line  some  buttered  tartlet  molds,  leaving  a  hollow  space  in  the  center;  fill  this  up  with  a  part  of 
the  foies-gras  preparation,  and  cover  with  more  of  the  semolino,  then  let  the  tartlets  get  quite 
cold;  unmold,  roll  in  grated  parmesan,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  nicely. 
When  done,  drain  and  dress  on  a  napkin. 


374  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(867).  CROMESQUIS  01  BEEF  PALATES  (Cromesquis  de  Palais  de  Boeuf). 
Prepare  and  cook  a  beef  palate  as  explained  in  No.  1326;  put  it  under  a  weight.  Cut  it  in 
lozenge-shaped  pieces,  two  inches  by  three  inches;  heat  these  in  a  half-glaze  (No.  400),  set  them, 
under  a  weight,  lay  on  each  side  a  slice  of  foies-gras  (goose  livers)  and  cover  this  with  raw  chicken 
forcemeat  (No.  89).  Roll  them  in  grated  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  again  in  the 
bread-crumbs  and  fry  until  a  good  light  color.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
on  top. 

(868),  GROMESQUIS  OP  CHICKEN,  CAPON,  FAT  PULLET  OR  DUCK  (Oromesquis  de   Volaille, 

de  Chapon,  Poularde  ou  de  Canard). 

Cook  a  calf's  udder  as  described  in  No.  109,  and  when  finished  cut  it  up  into  very  thin  slices 
from  the  widest  part,  then  beat  it  down  to  decrease  the  thickness.  Fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter, 
one  small  finely  chopped  up  shallot,  add  to  it  three  ounces  of  flour  and  let  cook  slowly,  then 
moisten  with  a  quart  of  chicken  broth  (No.  188);  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  reduce, 
and  add  a  pound  of  white  poultry  meat,  either  of  chicken,  capon,  fat  pullet,  duck  or  other,  and 
one  pound  of  well  drained  mushrooms  and  four  ounces  of  truffles;  all  three  cut  into  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares;  let  boil  up  once  or  twice  while  stirring  from  the  bottom  of  the 
sautoire  with  a  reducing  spatula  (Fig.  601),  and  incorporate  into  it  some  good  chicken  jelly  (No. 
103);  lay  this  preparation  aside  to  become  cold,  having  it  spread  on  a  flat  dish  to  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  and  leave  it  until  it  is  quite  hard,  then  cut  it  up  into  equal  sized  oblongs  one  and  a 
quarter  inches  by  two  and  a  half  inches;  cover  each  one  with  a  slice  of  udder  so  as  to  com- 
pletely enwrap  it,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  cromesquis  into  a  frying  batter  (No.  2, 
Fig.  137),  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  to  color;  drain,  and  dress  them  pyramidically  on 
a  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  to  decorate. 

(869).  OEOMESQUIS  OF  OEABS,  SHRIMPS,  CRAWFISH  OR  LOBSTER  A  LA  RUMPFORD 

(Cromesquis  de  Crabes,  de  Crevettes,  d'Ecrevisses  ou  de  Homard  a  la  Rumpford). 
For  the  cromesquis  use  either  crabs,  shrimps,  crawfish  or  lobsters;  cut  a  pound  of  the  one 
desired  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  also  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  the  same,  and  add  them 
to  a  quart  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  let  it  boil,  season  and  reduce,  then  thicken  with  six  egg- 
yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  pour  out  the  preparation  and 
set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Dampen  two  napkins,  press  out  every  particle  of  water,  and  place 
between  them  some  white  wafers  to  soften.  Roll  the  cold  preparation  into  balls,  flatten  them 
down  and  wrap  them  in  the  white  wafers  or  else  the  preparation  can  be  merely  laid  between  the 
two  wafers,  pressed  down  well  and  cut  into  lozenges.  Dip  them  in  frying  paste  (No.  2,  Fig.  137), 
plunge  them  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  them  a  fine  color,  drain,  wipe  off  and  dress  them  on 
folded  napkins,  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(870).  CROMESQUIS  OF  FILLETS  OF  STRIPED  BASS  OR  OTHER  FISH  (Cromesquis  de  Filets  de 

Bass  Ray6   ou  Autre  Poisson). 

Put  into  a  bowl  a  small  cut,  cold  striped  bass  salpicon,  having  about  half  a  pound  of  it,  and 
add  to  it  half  its  quantity  of  blanched  oysters,  and  as  many  mushrooms,  the  two  latter  being  cut 
into  quarter  of  an  inch  dice  pieces.  Put  on  to  reduce  a  few  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  stir- 
ring into  it  the  oyster  broth  and  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  let  it  reduce  until  very 
thick,  then  pour  in  the  salpicon,  being  careful  not  to  have  too  much  of  the  sauce;  finish 
the  preparation  with  a  dash  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  leave  it  to  get  thoroughly  cold.  Divide  it 
into  parts,  each  one  the  size  of  a  ball  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  give  them  an  oblong 
shape;  wrap  each  one  of  these  in  some  white  waffles  softened  between  two  damp  cloths.  Dip  the 
cromesquis  one  by  one  into  frying  paste  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  drain  them  well  and  plunge  them  at 
once,  but  only  a  few  at  the  time,  into  plenty  of  hot  frying  fat  to  heat  them  through,  and  let  get  a 
very  fine  color.  Drain  and  dress  them  on  folded  napkins. 

(871).  OROMESQUIS  OF  GAME  STANISLAS  (Oromesquis  de  Gibier  a  la  Stanislas). 

Made  with  either  snipe,  grouse,  young  rabbit,  partridge  or  plover  with  truffles.  Remove  the 
skin  and  nervous  parts  from  some  roast  game,  prepare  a  pound  of  the  meat  and  cut  it  into  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  cut  up  four  ounces  of  truffles  exactly  the  same.  Reduce  a  quart 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  with  some  game  fumet  made  with  the  carcasses  and  a  little  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  season,  add  the  game  and  truffles,  let  boil  and  cool  off.  Prepare  a  few  exceedingly 


SIDE    DISHES.  375 

thin,  small  bands  of  fat  pork,  seven  inches  in  length  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide, also  some 
round  pieces  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter.  Divide  and  roll  the  preparation  into  one  and  a 
half  inch  diameter  balls,  flatten  them  down  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  roll  the 
band  around  the  edge,  lay  the  round  pieces  on  top  and  bottom,  then  dip  the  cromesquis  into  a 
frying  paste  (No.  137,  No.  2),  and  plunge  them  into  very  hot  fat  to  attain  a  fine  color,  drain  and 
dress  them  pyramidically  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(872).  OEOMESQUIS  OP  LAMB,  BEEP  TONGUE  OE  SWEETBEEADS,  BABANINE  (Oromesquis 

d'Agneau,  de  Bceuf  de  Langue  on  de  Eis  de  Veau  a  la  Babanine). 

Prepare  a  few  bands  of  fat  pork  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  have  some  crepinette  or 
dressing  of  pork,  well  cleaned  and  well  drained,  spread  it  on  a  cloth,  and  cover  over  with  the  bands 
of  pork.  Cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  one  pound  of  either  lamb  sweetbreads  or 
beef  tenderloin,  or  lamb  or  calf  tongues,  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  cut  the  same  size,  half  a 
pound  of  lamb  brains,  cut  the  same,  half  a  pound  of  onions  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares, 
blanched  and  cooked  in  broth  (No.  194a).  Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  pint  of  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407)  with  four  ounces  of  cooked  ham,  and  four  ounces  of  foies-gras  cut  into  dice;  let  the 
preparation  get  cold,  then  divide  it  into  an.  inch  and  a  half  balls,  wrap  them  up  in  the  crepinette 
and  after  they  are  all  prepared,  bread-crumb  them  English  style  (No.  13),  butter  over,  and  broil 
them  on  a  slow  fire,  dress  on  hot  dishes,  and  serve  separately  a  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415),  to  which  has  been  added  some  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(873),  OEOMESQUIS  OF  OYSTEES,  MUSSELS,  SCALLOPS  OE  CLAMS,   BE'OHAMEL  (Cromesquis 

d'Huitres,  de  Monies,  de  Potencies  ou  de  Lucines  a  la  Bechamel). 

Blanch  lightly  either  some  oysters,  mussels,  scallops  or  clams  in  their  own  juice,  and  a  little 
water;  drain  and  cut  up  one  pound  into  large  three-eighths  of  an  inch  dice  pieces.  Eeduce  three 
pints  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  with  the  above  broth,  saute  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire  the 
blanched  pieces  of  oysters  or  others,  with  half  their  quantity  of  minced  fresh  mushrooms,  add  these 
to  the  bechamel  sauce,  after  carefully  draining  off  the  butter,  then  let  it  get  cold,  and  divide  it 
into  parts;  roll  each  one  into  a  ball  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  flatten  them  down  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  garnish  around  with  a  band  of  very  thin  prepared  pancake; 
lay  a  round  piece  both  on  top  and  bottom  to  cover  the  entire  surface,  and  then  dip  the  cromesquis 
into  frying  batter  (No.  137,  No.  2),  plunge  them  into  very  hot  fat  and  let  fry  a  fine  color;  dress 
them  on  folded  napkins,  placing  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  in  the  center. 

(874).  CEOQUETTES  (Croquettes). 

There  are  certain  preparations  called  croquettes  made  either  of  meat,  fish,  crustaceans,  vege- 
tables, or  eggs,  cut  up  into  small  dice,  and  frequently  mixed  with  mushrooms  cut 
the  same  size  as  the  meats,  and  then  mingled  with  certain  sauces.  Croquettes 
are  made  of  various  shapes  such  as  pear,  cylindrical,  balls,  or  cakes.  These 
croquettes  are  breaded  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  are  fried  in  very  hot  frying 
fat  until  they  attain  a  fine  golden  color,  they  must  be  served  as  soon  as  done.  FlG  219 

Dress  on  folded  napkins  decorating  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  on  top;  to  be  served 
without  any  sauce,  therefore  the  preparation  should  be  mingled  with  a  light,  gelatinous  or  else  well 
buttered  sauce. 

(875).  CEOQUETTES  OF  BEEF  PALATES  (Croquettes  de  Palais  de  Boeuf). 

Made  with  braised  beef  palate  pressed  under  a  weight  reducing  it  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
in  thickness;  cut  a  pound  of  this  into  small  squares,  and  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  cut  into 
the  same  sized  pieces;  cover  this  salpicon  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  well  seasoned  allemande 
sauce  (407),  and  finish  the  same  as  the  sweetbread  croquettes  (No.  893). 

(876).  CEOQUETTES  OF  CAPON  A  LA  EOYAL  (Croquettes  de  Ohapon  a  la  Eoyale). 

Cut  a  pound  of  white  capon  meat  into  three-sixteenth    inch  squares,   also  half  a  pound  of 

mushrooms,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweetbreads,  and  the  same  of  truffles,  all  cut  alike.     Mix 

together  and  fill  some  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137).     Put  six   egg-yolks  into  a  basin, 

beat  them  up  with  a  pint  of  cream,  some  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  strain  this  through  a  sieve, 


376  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  finish  filling  up  the  molds  with  it;  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven,  and  as  soon  as  they  become 
hard,  unmold,  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  bread-crumb  and  fry  them  to  attain  a  good  color,  drain 
and  dress  them  on  a  napkin  garnishing  around  with  fried  parsley. 

(877).  CHICKEN  CROQUETTES,  EXQUISITE  (Croquettes  de  Volaille  Exquises), 
Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  rice  flour,  stir  well  and  let  it  cook 
slowly  until  slightly  brown,  then  moisten  with  a  quart  of  veal  blond  stock  (No.  423),  and  stir  con- 
tinuously till  it  comes  to  a  boil;  set  it  on  one  side  to  boil  slowly,  and  despumate;  reduce  the  sauce 
and  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter.  Now  add  to  this  sauce,  a  pound  of  the 
white  meat  taken  from  a  fat  pullet,  and  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  half  a  pound 
of  cooked  mushrooms,  four  ounces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  all  being  cut  the  same  size  as  the  pullet, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  then  pour  it  out,  and  let  it  get  perfectly  cold.  Pound 
in  a  mortar,  one  ounce  of  truffles  with  one  ounce  of  cooked  rice,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
bechamel  (No.  409),  press  it  through  a  sieve,  and  let  get  cold,  then  divide  this  into  half  inch  balls. 
Make  some  balls,  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  of  the  chicken  croquette  preparation,  and  in 
the  center  of  each  insert  a  truffle  ball,  flatten  them  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch;  dip  them  in  beaten 
eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  fry  nicely  and  dress  them  in  pyramids  over  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing 
the  top  with  fried  parsley. 

(878).  CHICKEN  CROQUETTES,  HUNGARIAN  (Croquettes  de  Poulets  &  la  Hongroise). 

These  are  made  with  one  pound  of  the  white  meat  from  a  roast  chicken,  half  a  pound  of 
mushrooms,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  each  article  cut  into  one- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares.  Put  into  a  sautoire  a  pint  and  a  half  of  Hungarian  sauce  (No.  479), 
thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  cream;  when  it  nearly  boils,  stir  in  the  chicken,  mushrooms,  and 
tongue;  allow  to  boil  a  minute  then  cool;  with  this  preparation  form  cork-shaped  croquettes,  dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  then  fry  to  a  nice  color.  Dress  on 
napkins  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

(879).  CRAB  CROQUETTES,  PARMENTIER  (Croquettes  de  Crabes  &  la  Parmentier), 

Line  some  buttered  paupiette  molds  with  a  thin  lining  of  duchess  potato  preparation  (No. 
2785),  finished  with  parmesan  cheese;  fill  the  space  with  a  crab  and  cooked  mushroom  salpicon 
mixed  with  a  reduced  thick  bechamel  (No.  409),  the  same  as  for  a  croquette  preparation;  let  it 
become  hard  while  in  a  cool  place,  and  finish  filling  the  molds  with  more  of  the  potato  puree. 
Dip  the  molds  into  hot  water  in  order  to  unmold  the  croquettes,  then  roll  these  in  flour,  afterward 
in  beaten  eggs,  and  lastly  in  white  bread-crumbs,  then  plunge  them  into  very  hot  frying  fat  to 
color;  drain,  and  serve  on  folded  napkins  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

(880).  CRAB,  CRAWFISH,  LOBSTER  OR  SHRIMP  CROQUETTES,  VICTORIA  (Croquettes  de  Crabes 
d'Ecrevisses,  de  Homard  ou  Crevettes  k  la  Victoria). 

These  croquettes  are  made  with  any  of  the  above  crustaceans.  Cut  a  pound  of  any  of  these 
meats  into  dice  shapes,  and  have  also  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  truffles  cut  the  same  size  as  the 
meat.  Put  a  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  into  a  sautoire,  season  with  salt,  white,  and  red  pepper, 
and  add  half  a  pint  of  celery  puree  (No.  711),  let  reduce  and  moisten  with  cream;  and  incorpor- 
ate into  it  two  ounces  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  for  each  pound;  then  add  the  meat,  let  this 
preparation  get  quite  cold,  then  divide  it  into  balls  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  forming  these 
into  cork  shaped  croquettes,  two  inches  in  length,  roll  them  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  a  fine  color;  dress  on  folded  napkins,  arranging  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(881).  DUCKLING  CROQUETTES  A  LA  MUSER  (Croquettes  de   Oanetons  k  la  Muser). 

Have  a  pound  of  the  meat  taken  from  the  breast  of  a  duckling,  without  any  fat  or  skin,  and 
cut  it  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  fry  lightly  without  coloring,  one  ounce  of  chopped 
onions  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  the  duckling,  and  fry  for  a  minute  longer,  then  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  half  a  pound  of  potato  puree  (No.  725), 
four  raw  egg-yolks,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan;  mix  well  and  with  this  preparation 
form  cork-shaped  croquettes,  two  inches  in  length,  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them 
a  fine  golden  color,  dress  them  on  folded  napkins  and  set  on  top  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 


SIDE    DISHES.  37? 

(882).  PULLET  CROQUETTES.  WRIGHT  SANFORD  (Croquettes  de  Poularde  a  la  Wright 

Sanford). 

Mince  two  ounces  of  peeled  truffles,  cut  them  into  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares, 
suppress  the  skin  from  several  fat  pullets  and  all  the  hard  parts  so  as  to  obtain  one  pound  of 
meat,  and  cut  it  up  the  same  as  the  truffles.  Put  the  bones  and  parings  from  the  pullets  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  peelings  from  the  truffles,  three  gills  of  veal  blond  stock  (No.  423),  and  a 
garnished  bunch  of  parsley;  cover  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  to  reduce  the  liquid  to  half,  then 
strain  through  a  tammy  (Fig.  88). 

Pour  into  a  flat  saucepan,  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  mix  into  it  a  few  pieces  of  raw 
ham,  reduce  the  sauce  while  stirring  it  well  from  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  with  a 
reducing  spatula  (Fig.  601),  and  incorporate  into  it  gradually  the  above  stock;  continue 
to  reduce  until  the  sauce  becomes  thick  and  succulent,  then  take  out  the  ham,  and  replace  it 
by  the  truffles,  and  afterward  the  pullet;  season  with  salt  if  deemed  necessary,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
Spread  this  preparation  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  a  piece  of  paper,  having  it  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  when  it  is  cold  and  stiff,  overturn  it  on  the  table  previously  dredged 
with  bread-crumbs;  remove  the  paper,  and  cut  the  preparation  into  oblongs,  three  inches 
long  by  one  inch  wide;  dip  these  iu  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  throw  them 
into  hot  fat;  as  soon  as  they  are  nicely  colored,  take  them  out  and  drain.  Dress  them  pyramidic- 
ally  on  folded  napkins,  and  garnish  around  with  fried  parsley. 

(883).  PISH  CROQUETTES  (Croquettes  de  Poisson). 

The  Fish  Croquettes  may  be  prepared  with  either  salmon,  trout,  sole,  bass,  kingfish  sheeps- 
head,  or  red  snapper.  Simply  cut  up  the  meat  into  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares; 
lay  them  in  a  vessel  and  mix  in  a  third  of  their  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms,  and  half  as 
many  truffles  as  there  are  mushrooms,  all  cut  into  the  same  sized  pieces.  Put  on  the  fire  to  boil 
a  few  gills  of  good,  consistent  bechamel  (No.  409);  mix  into  it  slowly  the  mushroom  liquor  and 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  and  when  the  sauce  has  become  succulent,  add 
the  salpicon  in  the  saucepan;  heat  it  without  boiling,  and  spread  it  over  a  tin  sheet  to  become 
hard,  leaving  it  for  a  few  hours  in  a  cool  place  or  on  the  ice.  Divide  the  preparation  into  balls, 
an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  lay  them  on  a  table  bestrewn  with  white  bread-crumbs, 
and  roll  them  either  in  the  shape  of  corks  or  balls;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  them 
in  the  bread-crumbs;  smooth  well  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  then  range  them  on 
a  tin  sheet;  put  them  in  hot  frying  fat;  cook  only  a  few  at  a  time  and  let  them  get  a  nice  color. 
After  the  croquettes  are  finished  and  well  drained  from  the  fat,  range  them  in  pyramid-form 
over  a  folded  napkin,  and  garnish  around  with  fried  parsley. 

(884).  FROG  OR  OYSTER  CROQUETTES  (Croquettes  de  Grenouilles  ou  d'Huitres). 

Saute  some  frogs'  legs  with  butter  in  a  pan  over  a  brisk  fire;  season,  take  off  all  the  meat  from 
the  bones  to  obtain  one  pound;  cut  in  small  squares,  have  half  a  pound  of  cooked  and  well-dried 
mushrooms,  cut  them  into  quarter  inch  squares,  and  mix  them  with  a  quart  of  well  seasoned 
and  reduced  bechamel  and  cream  sauce  (No.  411);  incorporate  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  toss  the 
salpicon  in  the  sautoire.  Let  the  preparation  get  thoroughly  cold,  and  then  form  it  into  balls 
an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  flatten  them  down  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  dip  them  in  eggs 
and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  a  fine  golden  color,  then  drain  and  serve  on  folded  napkins 
with  fried  parsley. 

Oyster  Croquettes. — Instead  of  frogs  blanched  oysters  may  be  substituted  after  removing  the 
hard  parts,  and  dividing  them  into  squares;  saute  them,  drain  off  the  butter  and  finish  the  same 
as  the  frogs. 

(885).  GAME,  CHICKEN  OR  FAT  LIVER  CROQUETTES,  DAUPHINE  (Croquettes  de  Gibier, 

de  Volaille  ou  de  Foies-gras  a  la  Dauphme), 

Remove  the  fillets  either  from  some  game  or  chicken  (or  replace  them  by  some  fat  livers), 
suppress  all  skin  and  nerves  and  chop  them  up  finely,  then  pound  in  a  mortar  and  add  one  pint  of 
veloute  (No.  415),  and  one  ounce  of  butter  with  some  essence  of  mushrooms  (No.  392)  worked  into 
it,  pass  it  through  a  tammy  being  careful  to  have  the  puree  more  consistent  than  liquid.  Break 
separately  in  a  bowl,  eight  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg  for  each  quart  of  puree,  add  this  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Butter  some  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  fill  them 


378  THE    EPICUREAN. 

with  the  preparation,  and  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven;  let  get  cold,  then  unmold,  and  roll  them  in 
beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  good  color,  dress,  range  them  on  folded  napkins  and 
garnish  with  fried  parsley.  These  croquettes  may  be  made  by  mixing  half  foies-gras  with  either 
the  chicken  or  game. 

(886).  GKOUSE  OEOQUETTES  WITH  TOMATOED  SOUBISE  SAUCE  (Croquettes  de  Terras 

Sauce  Soubise  Tomate'e). 

Cut  the  meat  from  roasted  grouse  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  removing  all  the  skin, 
bones  and  nerves;  cut  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms  the  same  size;  mingle  the  two  with 
some  well  reduced  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  let  boil  up  once, 
then  pour  it  into  a  vessel  to  incorporate  in  a  little  fresh  butter;  let  this  preparation  get  cool. 
Divide  it  into  equal  parts  and  shape  each  one  info  a  cylindrical  croquette,  two  inches  long  by 
one  inch  in  diamater,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  brown, 
drain,  wipe  and  dress  on  folded  napkins;  serve  separately  a  soubise  sauce  (No.  543),  with  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  added. 

(887),  GUINEA  FOWL  OE  PULLET  OEOQUETTES  IN  SUEPEISE  (Croquettes  de  Pintade  ou 

Poularde  en  Surprise). 

Have  one  pound  of  the  white  meat  from  a  roasted  Guinea  fowl;  suppress  all  the  fat  and  nerves, 
and  cut  it  up  into  small  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  add  to  these  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  truffles 
cut  the  same  size,  and  put  all  into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  a  well  buttered,  cold  supreme  sauce  (No. 
547).  Form  the  preparation  into  balls  an  inch  and  three-quarter  in  diameter,  flatten  them  down  to 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  remove  the  center  of  each  with  a  half  inch  tube;  fill  this  empty  space 
with  a  foies-gras  ball,  then  dip  them  into  beaten  eggs  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  then  fry 
them  till  a  nice  color.  Serve  on  folded  napkins,  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

(888).  LAMB  OEOQUETTES  A  LA  DE  EIVAS  (Croquettes  d'Agneau  a  la  de  Eivas). 

Take  a  pound  of  lean  meat,  free  of  nerves,  from  a  tenderloin  or  leg  of  lamb,  half  a  pound  of 
mushrooms,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  red  beef  tongue;  mingle  these  well  with  a  pint  of  veloute" 
(No.  415),  and  half  a  pint  of  fine  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  reduce  well  together,  season,  and  set  it 
aside  to  get  cold;  finish  precisely  the  same  as  sweetbread  croquettes  (No.  893). 

(889).  PAETEIDGE  OEOQUETTES  WITH  GAME  FUMET  (Croquettes  de  Perdreaux  au  Fumet  de 

Gibier). 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  from  the  breasts  of  some  roast  partridges, 
after  suppressing  the  skin  and  nerves;  spread  half  a  pound  of  partridge  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  91),  on  a  buttered  paper  to  the  thickness  of  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch;  poach  this  in  a 
slow  oven,  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares.  Have  also  eight  ounces 
of  mushrooms  cut  the  same.  Reduce  a  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415),  with  a  pint  of  game 
fumet  (No.  397),  and  a  pint  of  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  when  the  sauce  is  well  reduced 
add  to  it  the  salpicon;  put  it  back  on  to  the  fire,  and  stir  to  bring  it  to  a  boil,  and  just 
when  on  the  eve  of  boiling,  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Divide  this  into  balls  each  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  size,  roll  them  on  a  table  dredged  with  bread-crumbs,  and  form  them  into  cork  shaped  pieces, 
then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  a  good  color,  and  dress 
the  croquettes  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  them  with  fried  parsley. 

(890).  PIKE  CEOQUETTES  A  LA  EOMAINE  (Croquettes  de  Brochet  a  la  Eomaine). 
Cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  and  one  pound  of  pike 
fillets,  sauted  in  butter,  and  cut  into  the  same  size  pieces  as  the  mushrooms,  also  two  ounces  of 
truffles,  and  mix  these  together  with  an  espagnole  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Marsala  wine. 
Have  some  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132);  put  it  with  an  equal  amount  of  pike  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  90);  butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  a  thin 
layer  of  this  forcemeat,  and  garnish  the  centers  with  a  salpicon;  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat, 
and  poach  them  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then  unmold,  dip  them  in  eggs,  roll  in 
bread-crumbs  and  fry  till  a  good  color;  drain,  dress  on  folded  napkins,  and  garnish  with  fried 
parsley. 


SIDE    DISHES. 

(891).  PHEASANT  CKOQUETTES  (Croquettes  de  Faisans). 

Cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  dice  the  cooked  and  cold  breast  meats  taken  from  pheasants; 
put  these  into  a  small  bowl  with  half  their  quantity  of  cooked  truffles  and  mushrooms,  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  red  beef  tongue  also  cut  up.  Set  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409)  on  the  fire  to  reduce,  and  incor- 
porate into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  pheasant  fumet  prepared  with  the  game  bones  and  parings,  also 
the  same  quantity  of  mushroom  essence  (No.  392).  After  the  sauce  is  thickened,  add  to  it 
the  salpicon,  and  season  the  whole  to  taste;  when  cold  divide  it  into  small  parts  and  with  them 
make  pear  or  cork-shaped  croquettes,  fry  them  when  needed  and  dress,  garnishing  with  fried 
parsley.  These  croquettes  can  also  be  made  with  partridge  or  quail. 

(892).  WOODCOCK  CROQUETTES  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Croquettes  de  Becasses  aux  Truffes). 

Suppress  the  skin  and  nerves  from  one  pound  of  woodcock  fillets;  cut  them  into  three-sixteenth 
inch  dice,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  truffles;  reduce  one  quart  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  and  veloute 
(No.  415)  combined,  and  when  well  reduced  thicken  it  with  four  raw  egg-yolks,  and 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  add  to  it  the  game  meats  and  truffles,  and  return  it  to 
the  fire,  stir  incessantly  until  the  first  boil,  then  take  it  off  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 
Divide  this  preparation  into  one  and  three-quarter  inch  sized  balls;  roll  them  on  a 
table  dredged  with  bread-crumbs  to  give  them  the  shape  of  a  pear,  and  dip  these 
into  beaten  eggs,  and  afterward  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs;  smooth  the  surfaces  with 
the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  plunge  them  into  hot  fat;  when  done  drain  on  folded 
napkins,  imitate  the  stalks  with  bits  of  parsley,  range  them  crown  shaped 
garnishing  the  center  with  fried  parsley.  The  game  may  be  replaced  by  a  salpicon  of  foies-gras. 

(893).  SWEETBREAD  CROQUETTES  (Croquettes  de  ris  de  Veau). 

Braise,  then  set  aside  to  cool,  one  pound  of  sweetbreads,  cut  them  into  three-sixteenths  inch 
squares,  have  also  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cooked  mushrooms  cut  the  same.  Put  into  a  sau- 
toir  one  quart  of  veloute  (No.  415)  well  seasoned  with  salt,  black  and  red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and 
thicken  the  sauce  with  four  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  half  a  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  fine 
butter;  add  the  sweetbreads  and  mushrooms,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  continue  to  stir  until  it  boils, 
then  pour  this  preparation  into  a  vessel  to  get  thoroughly  cold.  Divide  it  so  as  to  make  it  into 
cork-shaped  pieces,  which  roll  in  beaten  eggs,  and  fry  a  fine  color;  drain;  dress  them  pyramidically 
on  folded  napkins  and  decorate  with  fried  parsley. 

(894).  TURKEY  CROQUETTES  (Croquettes  de  Dinde). 

Put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  three  ounces  of  flour;  make  a  light  blond 
roux,  and  dilute  it  with  a  quart  of  cream  and  a  pint  of  milk,  add  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
then  reduce  and  despumate  this  sauce.  Add  two  pounds  of  white  turkey  meat,  and  a  pound  of 
mushrooms,  all  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  the  mushrooms  pressed  free  of  all 
moisture;  bring  to  a  boil  while  stirring  briskly  with  a  reducing  spatula,  and  incorporate  slowly 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter.  Another  way  is  to  use  twelve  ounces  of  cooked  chicken,  eight 
ounces  of  mushrooms,  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  ounces  of  flour;  moisten  with  five  gills  of 
white  chicken  broth  (No.  188).  And  still  another  way  is  to  employ  two  pounds  of  chicken,  two 
pounds  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  quart  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  cream. 

(895).  OROUSTADES  A  LA  CASTILLANE  (Croustades  a  la  Castillane). 

Prepare  a  very  thick  chestnut  puree  as  already  described  in  the  garnishings  (No.  712),  with  it 
fill  some  six-sided  molds  previously  cooled  in  ice-water  and  drained  before  filling, 
when  perfectly  cool  dip  them  into  very  hot  water  to  unmold.  Bread-crumb  them  in 
cracker  dust,  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces,  and  mark  an 
incision  with  a  pastry  cutter  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  fry  them  to  a 
fine  color,  remove  the  cover  and  empty  out  the  insides  to  refill  with  beef  tenderloin 
cut  in  quarter  inch  dice  pieces  and  sauted  in  butter  with  some  mushrooms  cut 
exactly  the  same,  and  a  brown  and  Marsala  wine  sauce  (No.  492).  Instead  of  re- 
placing the  lid,  cover  the  aperture  with  a  small  round  celery  croquette  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  across,  that  has  been  made  with  braised  celery  cut  in  small  squares  and  mixed 
with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  when  cold  bread-crumbed  and  fried. 


380  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(896),  OROUSTADES  A  LA  PARMENTIER  (Oroustades  a  la  Parmentier). 
Prepare  a  potato  puree  (No.  725);  rub  it  through  a  very  fine  sieve  as  described  in  the 
puree  and  with  it  fill  some  buttered  six-sided  molds;  let  them  get  thoroughly  cold  on  ice, 
then  unmold  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  mark  an  incision  on  top  with  a  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  pastry  cutter,  and  fry  them  in  hot  frying  fat  till  a  nice  color 
is  attained,  then  remove  the  lid,  empty  out  the  insides  and  refill  with  a  salpicon  of  crawfish  for 
one-half,  and  mushrooms  and  truffles  for  the  other  half;  mingled  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407).  Serve  very  hot  on  folded  napkins. 

(897).  CROUSTADES  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Oroustades  a  la  Perigueux). 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  hulled  barley  in  two  quarts  of  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  for  three  hours,  and 
when  well  done,  and  the  liquid  entirely  reduced,  then  beat  it  with  a  spatula  to  make  it  attain  a 
body,  while  adding  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt,  nutmeg  and  red  pepper.  Lay  some  six-sided  molds 
into  cold  water,  take  them  out  one  by  one,  drain  and  fill  with  the  prepared  barley;  leave  them  to 
cool  on  the  ice,  then  unmold  and  bread-crumb  them,  mark  the  top  with  a  three-quarter  inch 
pastry  cutter,  fry  them,  empty  their  insides,  and  fill  them  with  a  salpicon  composed  of  truffles  cut 
in  small  one-eighth  inch  squares,  and  small  quarter  of  an  inch  bead  quenelles  with  a  brown  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  492).  Instead  of  covering  the  aperture  with  its  own  cover,  have  one  made  of  a  round 
piece  of  glazed  truffle,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  by  one-eighth  in  thickness.  Dress 
them  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(898).  OROUSTADES,  CAROLINA  STYLE  (Oroustades  a  la  Caroline), 

Pick  well  half  a  pound  of  rice,  wash  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  moistening  with  some  fat, 
beef  stock  (No.  194a)  to  three  times  its  height,  then  boil,  cover  the  saucepan  and  continue  the 
boiling  for  thirty  minutes;  by  this  time  the  moisture  should  be  entirely  evaporated.  Mix  in 
with  this  rice,  four  ounces  of  butter,  beating  it  in  well,  then  fill  up  some  six-sided  molds 
after  they  have  been  dipped  in  ice  water  and  drained;  let  the  rice  get  cold,  unmold,  roll 
them  in  fine  cracker  dust,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  and  finish  by  rolling  them  in  fresh  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  the  surfaces  with  a  knife,  and  mark  an  incision  on  top  with  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
pastry  cutter,  then  fry  them  to  a  fine  color;  remove  the  covers,  empty  out  the  insides  and  fill  them 
with  the  following  garnishing:  Cut  some  shrimps  and  mushrooms  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
squares;  put  them  into  a  sautoir  with  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454),  season  and  bring  it  to  a  boil  while 
stirring  steadily,  thicken  well  with  egg-yolks,  fresh  butter  and  cream,  and  fill  the  croustades  with 
this;  lay  on  top  of  each  one  a  round  piece  of  truffle  instead  of  a  cover,  and  dress  these  croustades 
on  a  folded  napkin. 

(899).  OROUSTADES  OF  GNOOQUIS  A  LA  RIVOLI  (Oroustades  de  Gnocquis  a  la  Rivoli). 

Prepare  a  gnocquis  paste  with  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  fecula,  one  quart  of  milk, 
five  ounces  of  butter,  fifteen  raw  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg,  some  salt,  sugar,  nutmeg  and  four 
tablespoonf  uls  of  grated  parmesan  cheese.  Put  into  a  bowl  the  flour,  fecula,  cheese,  salt,  sugar  and 
nutmeg,  and  incorporate  in  slowly  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  butter,  eight  egg-yolks  and  the  whole 
egg,  work  them  well  together,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  butter  and  eggs;  butter  some  six-sided 
molds  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  two  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  one  inch  and  an 
eighth  in  height,  fill  with  the  gnocquis  paste  and  then  poach  them;  when  cold  unmold,  dip  them  in 
eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  mark  a  place  on  top  for  a  cover,  fry  them  a  fine  color  and  empty  the 
insides  to  fill  with  a  salpicon  cf  truffles,  mushrooms  and  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  small  delicate 
chicken  quenelle  balls,  serve  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  meat  juice  and  tomato 
essence.  Dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(900).  OROUSTADES  PERRETTI  (Oroustades  a  la  Perretti). 

Have  ready  two  pounds  of  noodles  (No.  142),  cook  this  for  four  minutes  in  boiling,  salted 
water,  drain  well  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan;  season,  and  finish  with  six  ounces  of  butter  and  four 
ounces  of  parmesan  in  such  a  way  as  to  obtain  a  compact  preparation.  With  this  fill  some 
buttered  six  sided  molds,  cool  them  on  ice,  unmold,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  white 
bread-crumbs,  and  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  mark  them  on  one  side  with  a 
pastry  cutter,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  ten  minutes  before  serving  plunge  them 
into  hot  fat  to  attain  a  golden  color,  drain,  and  empty  them,  then  fill  the  insides  with  a  salpicou- 


SIDE    DISHES.  381 

of  chicken  and  mushrooms,  mingled  with  some  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  and  chicken  glaze  (No.  398); 
put  back  the  cover  previously  removed,  and  dress  them  to  serve. 

For  Talliarines  proceed  the  same  as  for  the  noodles,  only  use  a  salpicon  of  olives  cut  in  small 
three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  some  mushrooms,  foies.-gras,  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549). 

(901).  CROUSTADES  A  LA  PIEDMONTESE  (Oroustades  k  la  Pie~montaise). 

Set  a  quart  of  broth  or  water  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  drip  into  it  like  rain,  six 
ounces  of  semolino,  let  it  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  incorporate  into  it  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  four  spoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan,  also  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg.  Lay  in  cold  ice  water 
some  six-sided  molds  (Fig.  221),  take  them  out  one  by  one,  and  fill  them  with  the  above  prepara- 
tion; leave  them  to  stand  on  ice  till  cold,  then  unmold,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  in  powdered 
crackers,  then  again  in  beaten  eggs  and  afterward  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife,  and  mark  on  top  with  a  round  three-quarter  of  an  inch  pastry  cutter;  fry  them  a 
fine  color,  remove  the  covers,  and  empty  out  the  insides;  fill  these  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  mush- 
rooms, beef  palates,  duck  livers,  small  quenelles  and  a  little  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 
Eeplace  the  covers,  and  serve  them  dressed  on  folded  napkins. 

For  Polenta  Croustades  proceed  exactly  as  for  the  semolino,  finishing  them  the  same;  fill  the 
insides  with  white  truffles  and  quarter  inch  squares  of  sweetbreads,  and  cover  with  an  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  dry  mushrooms  and  tomato  essence  added. 

(902).  CROUSTADES  A  LA    MORGAN  OR  WITH  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  AND   TRUFFLES 
(Croustade  a  la  Morgan  ou  aux  (Eufs  Brouilles  aux  Truffes). 

Peel  and  steam  some  sweet  potatoes,  then  pound  them  with  a  little  butter  and  a  few  egg- 
yolks;  fill  some  six  sided  molds  (Fig.  221)  previously  laid  in  ice  water  and  drained,  press  in  well 
the  potato,  and  set  them  on  the  ice  to  become  cold,  unmold  and  roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  dip 
them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  mark  an  incision  on  top  with  a  pastry  cutter  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter;  fry  them  a  fine  color,  remove  the  cover,  empty  out  the  insides,  and  fill 
them  with  some  mushrooms,  artichokes,  and  fat  livers  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares, 
and  mixed  in  a  saucepan  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  poulette  sauce  (No.  527).  When  all  are 
filled,  range  them  on  a  folded  napkin. 

For  Scrambled  Eygs  and  Truffles. — Fill  the  empty  spaces  with  a  preparation  of  eggs  scrambled 
with  truffles  and  grated  cheese. 

(903).  CRUSTS  OF  CLAMS  A  LA  SCHENK  (Croutes  de  Lucines  Grangers  k  la  Schenk). 

Cut  a  few  slices  of  bread  so  as  to  obtain  eight  crusts,  having  them  half  an  inch  thick; 
pare  them  into  ovals,  and  slit  them  on  the  surface  of  one  side,  by  making  a  slight  incision  a  short 
distance  from  the  edge,  following  the  oval  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  then  fry  them  in  clarified 
butter;  drain  as  quickly  as  they  get  a  nice  color,  and  empty  out  the  insides.  Fill  them  with  fish 
forcemeat  (No.  90),  poach  for  a  few  minutes.  Blanch  thirty-two  medium-sized  clams;  drain,  and 
cut  them  up  into  pieces,  but  should  they  be  very  small  then  leave  them  whole;  add  them  to  a  little 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  season  with  pepper,  mignonette,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice,  and,  if 
desired,  a  very  little  salt,  besides  a  few  cooked  fine  herbs.  Cover  the  crusts  with  this  preparation, 
and  bestrew  over  the  tops  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan;  set  them  into  a  very  hot  oven,  and 
when  a  fine  color  and  hot,  dress  them  on  folded  napkins. 

Crusts  a  la  Schenk.— Remove  all  the  hard  parts  from  twenty-four  clams,  using  only  the  soft 
pieces;  chop  these  up  and  season  with  black  and  red  pepper  but  no  salt;  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoon  ful  of  very  finely  minced  onion,  the  clam  juice  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream;  place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  remove  it  on  one  side  before  the  con- 
tents come  to  a  boil.  Lay  slices  of  toasted  bread  on  a  chafing-dish,  pour  over  the  clams  and  serve. 
Slices  of  buttered  brown  bread  may  accompany  this  hors-d'oeuvre. 

(904).  CRUSTS  D'HENIN,  MORTON,  CHAMBERLAIN,  OR  A  LA  GENOISE  (Oroutes  a  la  d'Henin, 
k  la  Morton,  &  la  Chamberlain,  ou  a  la  Ge"noise). 

If  cut  round  shaped  a  la  d'Henin  they  are  two  and  one-quarter  inches  across;  if  oval  shaped  a 
la  Morton,  two  inches  by  three;  if  oblongs,  Chamberlain,  two  and  three-quarters  inches  by  one  and 
three-quarters  inches;  if  lozenge  shape  a  la  Genoise,  four  inches  by  two  and  one-quarter  inches 
all  of  these  to  be  cut  half  an  inch  in  thickness 


382  THE    EPICUREAN. 

For  Round  Shaped  a  la  d'Henin. — Made  with  foies-gras;  mark  an  incision  all  around  the 
crusts  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge,  fry  them  in  butter,  and  empty  out  the  insides  to  fill  ir* 
with  a  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  poach  for  a  few  minutes.  Mince  some  foies-gras,  garnish  the 
crusts  with  this,  and  cover  with  a  Toulouse  garnishing  (No.  766),  lay  over  a  chicken  and  cream 
forcemeat  (No.  75),  bestrew  over  some  chopped  truffles  and  besprinkle  with  clarified  butter;  poach 
them  in  the  oven  without  browning  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  on  napkins  without  any  sauce 
whatever. 

Oval  Crusts  a  la  Morton. — Fill  the  insides  with  a  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  poach 
them  in  the  oven,  and  garnish  with  slices  of  truffles,  slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  slices  of  mush- 
rooms. Cover  with  a  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  to  which  some  chopped  chives  have  been  added, 
dredge  bread  crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  on  top,  and  set  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  twenty 
minutes  before  serving. 

Oblong  Crusts  a  la  Chamberlain. — Fill  the  insides  with  a  godiveau  forcemeat  (No.  82), 
poach  them,  then  mince  some  raw  chicken  or  game  fillets,  saute  them  in  butter  over  a  brisk 
fire,  add  some  veloute  (No.  415),  truffles  and  mushrooms;  cover  the  crusts  with  this, 
bestrew  the  tops  with  grated  cheese  and  bread-crumbs,  pour  over  some  butter,  and  place  them  for 
twenty  minutes  in  the  oven,  and  serve  hot  on  folded  napkins. 

Lozenge-shaped  Crusts  a  la  Genoise.—Y\\\  the  insides  with  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
90);  lay  over  some  oysters  and  slices  of  lobsters  or  crabs,  saute  a  few  mushrooms  in  butter, 
seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with  cream,  and  let  boil  for  a  few  seconds,  then  add  a 
little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and  with  this  cover  the  whole;  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and 
parmesan,  and  brown  the  crusts  in  the  oven. 

(905).  GEUSTS  WITH  FOIES-GEAS  (Oroutes  au    Foies-Gras). 

From  a  kitchen  loaf  (Fig.  210)  cut  quarter  inch  thick  slices  and  from  these  obtain  twenty  oval- 
shaped  crusts,  each  three  inches  long  by  two  and  a  quarter  inches  wide;  prepare  a  baking  liver  force- 
meat (No.  64)  with  fat  pork  and  aromatic  herbs;  when  cold  pound  it  with  a  few  parings  of  cooked 
foies-gras;  rub  this  through  a  sieve.  Put  into  a  vessel  about  two  gills  of  this  puree,  beat  it  with  a 
spoon  incorporating  slowly  into  it  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with 
Madeira  till  succulent  and  thick;  add  to  the  preparation  a  third  as  much  cooked  foies-gras  cut  in  small 
dice  and  two  chopped  truffles.  Take  up  the  crusts  one  by  one,  dip  them  into  a  mixture  of  egg- 
yolks  and  raw  cream  that  has  been  strained  through  a  sieve  and  steep  without  deforming  them,  then 
cover  the  surfaces  with  a  part  of  the  above  preparation,  smooth  it  into  a  dome-shape,  and  take  up 
the  crusts  with  a  palette  to  dip  them  entirely  in  beaten  eggs;  let  drain  and  immerse  in  white  bread- 
crumbs, and  plunge  a  few  at  the  time  into  plenty  of  hot  frying  fat  to  attain  a  fine  color; 
drain,  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve. 

(906).  CRUSTS  OF  WOODCOCK  (Croiites  de  Becasses). 
Have  a  kitchen  loaf  of  bread  (Fig.  210)  and  from  it  cut  seven  or  eight  oblong  slices,  each  one 

three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  brown  lightly  in  clarified  butter  on  one  side  only,  then  remove  them 
leaving  the  butter  in  the  sautoire.  Fry  on  a  brisk  fire  the  intestines  of  two  wood- 
cock with  melted  fat  pork  and  a  few  good  chicken  livers,  also  two  or  three  slices 
of  calfs  liver,  aromatic  herbs  and  seasoning.  Pound  this  preparation,  rub  it 
through  a  sieve  and  put  the  pulp  into  a  vessel  to  stir  in  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
good,  reduced  and  well  thickened  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  adding  also  four  raw 
egg-yolks  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  With  this  cover  the  browned  sides  of  the  crusts, 
smoothing  the  surfaces  bomb-shaped.  Keturn  the  crusts  to  the  sautoire  then  set 

the  pan  on  the  oven  to  fry  the  bread  underneath,  and  poach  the  preparation.     Glaze  the  surface 

with  a  little  meat  glaze  laid  on  with  a  brush,  remove  from  the  pan,  place  them  on  a  napkin  to 

drain,  then  dress  them  on  hot  plates,  and  serve  very  hot. 

(907).  PONTAGE  OEOUSTADES  A  LA  FLAVIGNAN  (Croustades  Pontage  a  la  Flavignan). 
Into  a  vessel  put  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  two  or  three  egg-yolks,  a  little  salt,  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil;  mix  all  well  together  with  a  gill  and  a  half  of  tepid  water,  adding  a 
little  beer  or  a  little  compressed  yeast  the  size  of  a  three-eighths  of  an  inch  ball,  diluting  it  in  a 
little  luke  warm  water.  Cover  the  vessel  and  place  it  in  a  mild  temperature  of  eighty  degrees  for 
about  two  hours.  Heat  some  lard  on  the  fire,  place  in  itafontage  iron  (Fig.  174).  As  soon  as  the 
iron  is  hot,  dip  it  almost  entirely  in  the  paste,  take  it  out  at  once  and  plungp  ~,t  into  the  hot  frying 


SIDE    JJISHES.  383 

fat  and  keep  it  there  until  the  paste  is  cooked  and  can  be  detached  from  the  iron,  then  remove  and 
invert  it  on  a  grate  to  keep  warm,  while  continuing  the  operation  until  a  sufficient  number  are 
prepared,  and  just  when  serving  fill  them  with  aFlavignan  salpicon  (No.  744). 

(908).  KULIBIAO,  EUSSIAN  (Ooulibiac  a  la  Eusse). 

Dilute  in  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  the  third  of  an  ounce  of  yeast;  fill  it  up  with  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  and  beat  well  with  a  spatula  to  form  a  very  smooth  leaven;  let  it  rise  to  double  in  a  mild 
temperature,  then  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  six  eggs,  some  cream  and 
a  little  salt;  beat  it  well  with  the  spatula  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste,  then  lay  it  on  the  table,  make  a 
hole  in  the  middle  and  fill  this  with  sufficient  sifted  flour  that  when  mixing  it  with  the  hands  it 
does  not  adhere,  and  set  it  away  in  a  warm  place  for  one  hour.  Break  up  the  paste  and  bring  it 
together  again,  and  lay  it  aside  in  the  ice-box.  Roll  it  out  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, set  this  layer  on  a  floured  cloth,  and  place  on  it  one  inch  and  a  quarter  apart, 
round  balls,  an  inch  in  diameter,  made  of  the  following  preparation:  Have  a  pound  of 
salmon  and  bass  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares;  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  in  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares,  fry  them  in  butter  and  moisten  with  Madeira,  then  add  the  fish  and  some  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414),  two  chopped  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  four  ounces  of  rice  cooked  in  consomme 
(No.  189),  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  chives.  Dampen  slightly  with  a  brush  around  the  forcemeat, 
and  cover  over  with  another  layer  of  paste.  Prepare  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  cut  out  the  kulibiacs 
with  a  small  wheel  if  for  squares,  or  else  with  a  pastry  cutter  if  for  rounds,  turn  them  over  and  lay 
them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  set  them  aside  in  a  warm  temperature,  egg  the  surfaces  twice,  dredge 
a  little  bread-crumbs  over,  besprinkle  with  butter  and  cook.  They  can  be  made  in  one  entire  piece, 
turning  it  over  on  a  buttered  sheet,  egg  the  surface,  dredge  bread-crumbs  over,  besprinkle  with 
butter,  and  when  done  cut  them  out  with  a  knife;  in  either  case  dress  them  on  folded  napkins. 

(909).  KULIBIAO  SMOLENSKA  (Ooulibiac  &,  la  Smolenska). 

Fry  a  chopped  shallot  in  butter  without  letting  it  attain  a  color,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
raw  mushrooms  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  and  when  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  add  carrots, 
turnips,  and  celery  roots,  all  blanched  and  fried  in  butter,  also  some  cabbage;  season  with  salt, 
black  and  red  pepper,  and  moisten  with  some  remoistening  (No.  189),  then  let  cook  slowly  in  such 
a  way  that  the  moisture  becomes  thoroughly  reduced  when  the  vegetables  are  done;  thicken  it 
with  half  veloute  (No.  415),  and  half  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Roll  out 
some  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  from  this  round  pieces 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  and  fill  the  centers  with  the  above  preparation,  shaping  it  into 
one  and  a  half  inch  balls,  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste,  and  raise  them  up  to  join  the  opposite  corners, 
pinch  them  well  together  to  make  them  fasten,  and  range  on  a  baking  sheet;  egg  over  the  surfaces, 
and  let  them  cook  in  a  hot  oven;  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(910).  CARDINAL  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline  au  Cardinal). 

Forcemeats  for  mousselines  are  prepared  either  with  chicken,  game,  or  fish,  the  same  as  ex- 
plained in  the  Elementary  Methods  (No.  86).  Butter  some  mousseline  molds  (No. 
2,  Fig.  138)  with  cold  butter,  and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles;  at  the 
bottom  of  each  mold  place  a  thin  slice  of  truffle,  then  dredge  all  over  with  very 
finely  chopped  lobster  coral  so  as  to  cover  the  sides  completely.  Fill  with  salmon 
mousseline  forcemeat,  poach  the  same  as  described  in  the  Elementary  Methods 
(No.  152),  and  dress  on  to  a  dish  containing  a  little  consomme;  serve  a  cardinal 
FIG.  283.  sauce  (No.  442)  separately. 

).  HAM  MOUSSELINE  OR  MOUSSE  A  LA  BELMONT,  COSTA,  YIRGUNIENNE  (Mousseline  on 
Mousse  de  Jambon  a  la  Belmont,  k  la  Costa  et  a  la  Virginienne). 

A  la  Belmont.  —Chop  very  fine  a  pound  of  cooked  ham,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  breast  of 
chicken  freed  from  nerves  and  fat.  Add  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  cold  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409), 
thickened  with  cream  and  eight  egg-yolks,  and  pour  in  slowly  three  spoonfuls  of  good  cream  and 
one  of  Madeira.  Add  the  same  volume  of  well  drained  whipped  cream  as  there  is  forcemeat,  and 
finish  the  same  as  mousseline  a  la  Costa.  Serve  separately  a  chicken  essence  (No.  387),  thickened 
with  rice  flour,  to  which  a  little  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  is  added,  and  some  lean  ham  cut  in  very 
small  dice. 

A  la  Costa. — Take  one  pound  of  raw,  lean  ham  previously  cut  in  small  dice  soaked  in  cold 
water  for  three  hours,  dram  and  pound  with  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  chicken  breasts  previously 


384 


THE    EPICUREAN 


FIG.  225. 


run  through  the  machine  (Fig.  147),  then  press  the  meat  through  a  fine  sieve  and  put  this  in  a 
metal  pan  on  the  ice,  work  and  add  gradually  the  volume  of  one  pint  of  well  drained  not  sweetened 
whipped  cream  and  a  teaspoonful  of  fecula.  Butter  some  mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138), 
dredge  over  some  finely  chopped,  cooked,  lean  ham,  fill  the  molds  with  preparation  and  poached 
as  explained  (No.  152),  dress  on  a  dish  having  a  little  consomme  in  it.  Serve  separately  a  West- 
phalian  sauce  (No.  561). 

A  la  Virginienne. — Chop  finely  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raw  or  cooked,  lean  Virginia  ham,  also  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  chicken  breasts,  mix  the  two  together  and  pound,  add  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409), 
pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  adding  two  soupspoonf  uls  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  fecula;  mix  with  this  the  same  volume  of  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  put  in  a  thin  basin 
on  ice  and  add  to  it  the  volume  of  one  pint  of  well  drained  unsweetened  whipped  cream,  finish  the 
same  as  a  la  Costa.  Serve  separately  a  champagne  sauce  (No.  445). 

(912).  ISABELLA  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline   Isabelle), 

Decorate  mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  with  red  beef  tongue  and  truffles; 
fill  them  with  mousseline  game  forcemeat  (No.  87),  made  either  with  snipe,  plovers, 
doe -birds,  or  woodcock,  finish  them  precisely  the  same  as  for  the  cardinal  (No. 
910);  dress  gad  serve  separately  a  marsala  sauce  (No.  492).  with  chopped  truffles. 

FIG.  224. 

(913).  MAEEOHALE  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline  &  la  Mar6chale). 

Decorate  mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  with  truffles  and  tongue,  as  in  the 
accompanying  design  (Fig.  225),  garnish  them  with  a  poultry  mousseline  forcemeat 
(No.  86),  made  with  turkey,  and  finish  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  cardinal  (No. 
910),  serve  separately  a  well  buttered  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  with  finely  minced 
oronges  or  mushrooms  added. 

(914),  EIOHMOND  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline  a  la  Eichmond). 
Decorate  the  molds  with  tongue  and  truffles  as  shown  in  Fig.   226,  fill  them 
with  a  game  mousseline  forcemeat  (No.  87),  made   either  with  hare,   rabbit,  or 
grouse,  and  finish  as  described  for  cardinal  (No.    910).     Dress,    and  serve  with 
a  separate  sauce-boat  of  a  well  buttered  financiere  sauce  (No.  464). 

FIG.  226. 

C915).  EOBEETSON  HAM  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline  de  Jambon  a  la  Eobertson). 
Chop  up  finely  or  grate  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a 
pint  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  and  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  let  get  cold.  Pound  in  a  mortar  one  pound  of  chicken 
fillets  after  passing  them  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47);  mix  in  with  this 
two  egg-whites,  and  the  above  prepared  sauce,  press  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
stir  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  63),  and  the  value  of  one  quart 
of  whipped  cream.  Fill  some  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  previously  decorated  with 
truffles  as  shown  in  the  plate  with  this  preparation,  and  finish  them  the  same  as 
for  the  cardinal  (No.  910),  and  send  to  the  table  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  with  ham  added. 

(916).  MOUSSELINE  A  LA  WALESKT  (Mousseline  a  la  Walesky). 
Decorate  the  mousselines  with  truffles,  tongue,  and  pistachios,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  228,  fill  half  the  molds  with  duck  mousseline  prepared  the  same  as  chicken 
mousseline  (No.  86),  and  half  with  Guinea  fowl  mousseline  (No.  87),  and  finish 
the  same  as  for  the  cardinal  (No.  910).  Serve  separately  a  Colbert  sauce  (No. 
451),  buttered  just  when  ready  to  use.  FIG.  228. 

(917).  MOUSSELINE  OF  WHITE  GAME  A  LA  MEDIOIS  (Mousseline  de  Gibier 

Blanc  a  la  Meclicis). 

Prepare  a  game  mousseline  forcemeat  as  described  in  the  Elementary  Methods 
(No.  87),  made  either  with  pheasants,  partridges,  or  quails.  Decorate  some  molds 
with  truffles  the  same  as  shown  in  Fig.  229,  and  fill  them  with  the  mousseline 
(No.  2,  Fig.  138)  forcemeat  made  of  any  of  the  above  or  other  white  game;  finish 
exactly  as  for  the  cardinal  (No.  910),  and  serve  with  a  buttered  allemande  sauce 
(No.  407),  containing  mushrooms  cut  into  small  Julienne  (No.  318). 


FIG.  227. 


FIG.  229. 


SIDE    DISHES.  385 

(918).  WOODCOCK  MOUSSELINE  (Mousseline  de  Be"cassesl 
Prepare  a  mousseline  forcemeat  made  with  the  meats  from  woodcock  as  indicated 
in  Elementary  Methods  (No.  87);  mix  in  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  truffles  cut  in 
small  squares  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  size;  with  this  forcemeat  fill  some  mous- 
seline molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  decorated  with  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue  as  shown 
in  Fig.  230;  smooth  the  tops  and  poach  as  explained   (No.  152).     At  the  last  mo- 
FIG  330  ment  take  °Ut  the  mousselines>  coyer  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  little  consomme 

(No.  189),  unmold  and  dress  them  in  a  circle.     Serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397),  having  prepared  it  with  the  woodcock  parings. 

(919).  MOUSSELINE  OF  YOUNG  BABBIT  (Mousseline  de  Lapereau). 

Pound  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  the  fillet  meat  taken  from  a  raw  young  rabbit,  rub  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  return  it  to  the  mortar  to  mix  in  six  egg-yolks,  one  by  one,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter  divided  in  pieces.  Put  this  preparation  into  a  thin  iron  vessel  and  heat  it 
up  for  ten  minutes  incorporating  into  it  slowly  a  quart  and  a  half  in  volume  of  unsweetened  whip- 
ped cream.  Butter  and  decorate  the  mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  with  truffles;  fill  them 
with  the  preparation  and  poach  in  a  bain-marie  in  a  very  slack  oven.  After  removing  the 
mousseline  from  the  oven,  let  it  rest  two  minutes  before  unmolding  on  a  hot  dish  containing 
a  little  consomme  (No.  189).  Serve  separately  some  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with 
the  fumet  of  young  rabbit  (No.  397). 

(920).  PALMETTES  (Palmettes). 

Palmettes  are  molded  in  bottomless  molds,  made  of  tin  bands  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
height,  and  heart-shape,  from  three  to  three  and  a  half  inches  on  the  longest  side  by  two  and  a 
half  on  its  widest,  and  being  three  inches  long  in  the  center  of  the  heart.  These 
molds  are  to  be  buttered  and  laid  on  sheets  of  very  strong  paper,  cut  three 
inches  by  four,  and  buttered  on  one  side;  place  the  molds  on  this  buttered  side 
and  fill  them  with  a  mousseline  force-meat  (No.  86),  made  either  of  fish,  chicken  or 
game,  to  which  has  been  added  various  salpicons.  Instead  of  the  mousseline  force- 
meat, a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  a  cream  forcemeat  (No.  74)  (an  equal  quantity 
of  each),  may  be  substituted.  The  palmettes  should  only  be  slightly  poached,  hav- 
ing them  of  a  sufficient  consistency  to  allow  them  to  be  bread-crumbed  without 
breaking;  they  must  first  be  dipped  in  eggs  and  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fried  in  YIQ.  231. 
white  and  very  hot  fat;  when  a  fine  color  they  are  to  be  dressed  crown-shaped,  and 
garnished  with  small  frill  favors  (No.  10).  The  pointed  ends  of  these  trimmed  handles  are  inserted 
into  the  point  ends  of  the  palmettes.  Serve  at  the  same  time  as  the  palmettes,  but  separately,  a 
light  sauce. 

(921).  JUNOT  PALMETTES  (Palmettes  a  la  Junot). 

Prepare  a  plover  or  woodcock  mousseline  (No.  87),  adding  to  it  some  finely  minced  mush- 
rooms and  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  fill  the  molds,  poach,  and  finish  them  exactly  the  same  as  for 
(No.  920);  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  dress  them  crown  shaped  on  a  napkin  and  garnish  with  favor 
frills  (No.  10).  Serve  separately  a  salmis  sauce  (No.  536),  with  some  truffles  cut  in  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  squares. 

(922).  PEEIEE  PALMETTES  (Palmettes  a  la  Perier). 

Mix  half  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  with  half  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and 
garnish  the  centers  of  the  palmettes  with  a  salpicon  of  shrimps  mingled  with  a  well  buttered 
bechamel  (No.  409)  cover  with  more  forcemeat,  then  poach,  bread-crumb  and  fry  them  in  clarified 
butter.  Fill  with  chicken  forcemeat  some  dome-shaped  molds  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter, 
previously  buttered  and  decorated  with  truffles;  poach,  unmold  and  lay  them  on  the  widest  part 
of  the  palmettes;  garnish  with  a  favor  frill  (No.  10),  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  a 
buttered  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  chopped  mushrooms  and  truffles  added. 

(923).  PEIMATIOE  PALMETTES  (Palmettes  k  la  Primatice). 

Fill  some  palmette  molds  with  a  doe-bird  or  plover  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  finished  with 
an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  game  fumet  (No.  397):  add  to  it  some  chopped  truffles,  and  poach 
the  forcemeat  in  a  moderate  oven;  unmold,  and  dip  the  palmettes  into  eggs,  and  roll  them  in  bread- 
crumbs mixed  with  finely  chopped  ham,  fry  them  in  clarified  butter  till  a  fine  color.  Then  drain 
and  dress  them,  garnishing  with  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
with  tongue,  mushrooms,  and  truffles,  cut  into  very  small  squares,  added  to  it. 


386  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(924).  VAESOVIAN  PALMETTES  (Palmettes  a  la  Varsovienne). 

To  be  made  with  a  chicken  mousseline  forcemeat  (No.  86),  mixed  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles, 
tongue,  and  mushrooms,  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  having  two  ounces  of  each  for  every 
pound  of  forcemeat;  fill  the  molds,  poach,  unmold,  and  bread-crumb  them,  then  fry  in  clarified 
butter.  Garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  range  them  on  a  napkin,  and  send  to  the  table  with 
a  sauce  boat  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  with  raw  fine  herbs  added. 

(925),  PALMETTES  OF  FAT  LIVEES  DELMONTES  (Palmettes  de   Foies-Gras  a  la  Delmontes). 

Pound  well  together  half  a  pound  of  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
foies-gras,  and  half  a  pound  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75).  Butter  some  palmette  molds,  fill  them 
with  this  preparation,  poach,  unmold,  then  bread-crumb,  and  fry  them  nicely;  dress  them  on 
folded  napkins,  garnish  each  one  with  a  favor  frill  (No.  10)  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat 
of  sherry  or  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  with  truffles  and  lean  ham,  both  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch 
squares,  added. 

(926),  PALMETTES  OF  GUINEA  FOWL  AND  WILD  DUCK,  PALADIO  (Palmettes  de  Pintade  ou 

de  Canard  Sauvage  k  la  Paladio). 

Make  a  game  mousseline  forcemeat  with  Guinea  fowl,  and  as  much  redhead  duck  (No.  87), 
mixing  in  some  cooked  fine  herbs;  fill  the  molds,  poach,  unmold,  bread-crumb  and  fry  them 
exactly  the  same  as  for  No.  920.  Dress  them  crown-shaped  and  serve  separately  a  Parisian 
tomato  sauce  (No.  550),  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  trimming  the  palmettes  with  favor  frills 
(No.  10). 

(927).  PALMETTES  OF  HAM  A  L'AQUITAINE  (Palmettes  de  Jambon  a  1'Aquitaine). 

Make  with  ham  mousseline  (No.  911),  and  finish  the  same  as  for  No.  920,  only  frying  the 
palmettes  in  oil.  Infuse  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon  in  Madeira  wine,  reduce  it  with  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413),  strain,  and  add  mushrooms,  truffles,  and  beef  palate  all  cut  in  small  two-six- 
teenth inch  squares;  serve  this  separately. 

(928).  PALMETTES  OF  HAEE  AND  YOUNG  KABBIT,  POLISH  (Palmettes  de  Lievre  ou  deLapereau 

a  la  Polonaise) 

Have  a  mousseline  forcemeat  made  with  hare  or  young  rabbit  (No.  87),  adding  to  it  truffles 
and  mushrooms  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares;  fill  the  molds,  poach,  unmold,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb, then  fry  them  a  fine  color  in  clarified  butter.  Garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  and  serve 
on  napkins.  A  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  essence  of  mushrooms  (No.  392)  to  be  served 
separately. 

(929).  PALMETTES  OF  PHEASANTS  A  LA  TOKEENS  (Palmettes  de  Faisans  a  la  Torrens). 

Have  ready  a  game  mousseline  forcemeat  (No.  87)  prepared  with  pheasant's  meat;  add  to  it 
some  finely  shred,  cooked  lean  ham,  and  fill  the  molds  with  this,  poach,  unmold  and  fry  the 
palmettes  the  same  as  for  No.  920.  Serve  with  a  hunter's  sauce  (No.  480)  separate,  after  decorating 
with  favor  frills  (No.  10). 

(930).  PALMETTES  OF  PULLET  OE  CAPON,  CLINTON  (Palmettes  de  Poularde  ou  de  Chapon  a  la 

Clinton). 

Prepare  the  palmette  molds  as  indicated  in  No.  920;  fill  them  only  half  full,  and  in  the  center 
place  a  foies-gras  puree  made  from  some  Strasburg  pate  of  foies-gras  pressed  through  a  sieve; 
finish  filling  the  molds,  poach,  unmold,  bread-crumb  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter;  trim  with 
favor  frills  (No.  10),  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boatful  of  white  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451) 
with  chopped  truffles. 

(931).  PALMETTES  OF  QUAILS  OE  PAETEIDGES,  AFEIOAN  (Palmettes  de  Oailles  ou  de  Perdreaux 

a  rAfricaine). 

Have  ready  some  heart-shaped  molds  as  already  described  in  No.  920;  fill  them  with  a  quail 
or  partridge  mousseline  forcemeat  (No.  87),  with  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  foies-gras  cut  in  one- 
eighth  inch  squares;  poach  them  very  slightly,  just  sufficient  to  allow  them  to  be  bread-crumbed 


SIDE    DISHES.  387 

after  dipping  in  eggs,  and  fry  them  to  a  fine  color;  trim  with  favor  frills  (No.  10);  serve  them 
crown-shaped  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  send  to  the  table  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  African 
sauce  (No.  424_). 

(932).  PALMETTES  OP  SNIPE  WITH  TEUFFLES  A  LA  OSBORN  (Palmettes  de  B&assines  aux 

Trufies  a  la  Osborn). 

Have  half  a  pound  of  snipe  or  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  diluted  with  two  gills  of 
cspagnole  (No.  414);  let  it  get  cold  on  the  ice,  and  beat  into  it  the  value  of  a  pint  of  whipped  cream, 
adding  two  ounces  of  truffles  cut  into  one-eighth  inch  squares.  Fill  the  molds  described  in  article 
No.  920,  poach,  unmold,  egg  and  bread-crumb  the  palmettes,  then  fry  them  a  fine  color,  drain, 
dress  and  trim  with  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced 
with  a  snipe  fumet  sauce  (No.  397)  with  chopped  truffles  added. 

(933).  PALMETTES  OF  TURKEY  A  LA  BEARNAISE  (Palmettes  de  Dindeala  Be"arnaise). 

Mix  with  a  cream  and  turkey  forcemeat  (No.  75),  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  soubise  (No.  723), 
fill  the  palmette  molds  with  this,  laying  slices  of  foies-gras  in  the  center,  poaoh,  and  finish  them 
exactly  the  same  as  described  in  No.  920,  serve  separately  a  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433). 

(934).  PATTIES  A  L'ANDALOUSE  (Bouchers  a  1'Andalouse). 

Prepare  puff  paste  bouchees  as  already  explained  in  the  Elementary  Methods  (No.  11).     Cook 
them  only  shortly  before  they  are  needed,  so  as  not  to  be  obliged  to  heat  them  over  again,  and 
when  done,  remove  the  covers  and  empty  out  the  insides,   fill  these  with  a 
salpicon  of  cooked,  smoked  ham,  artichoke  bottoms,  chicken  quenelles,  and  mush- 
rooms, ail  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  mingled  with  Marsala 
wine  sauce  (No.  492).     Dress  them  pyramidically  on  a  napkin  and  serve. 


(935),  CRAWFISH,    CRAB,  OYSTER  CRAB,  SHRIMP  OR  LOBSTER  PATTIES 

(Bouche'es  d'Ecrevisses,  de  Orabes,  de  Crabes  d'Huitres,  de  Orevettes  ou  de  Homard).  FIG.  232. 

Make  a  dozen  small  puff  paste  patties  the  same  as  for  No.  934.    Cut  a  salpicon  of 

cooked  crawfish  tails;  put  itintoabowl  and  mix  in  half  as  many  cooked  mushrooms,  both  being  cut 
into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.  Set  on  the  fire  to  reduce  a  few  spoonfuls  of  veloute"  (No. 
415),  incorporating  slowly  into  it  the  mushroom  liquor,  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  broth  the  craw- 
fish tails  were  cooked  in,  finishing  with  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  thicken  the  salpicon 
with  this  sauce,  and  use  it  to  fill  the  patties;  cover  them  with  their  own  lids,  and  dress  on  folded 
napkins.  By  following  this  method  cooked  and  firm  fish  meat  can  be  used  for  filling  bouchees, 
besides  crabs,  oyster  crabs,  lobsters,  or  shrimps,  etc. 

(936).  PUREE  OF  GAME  PATTIES  (Bouche'es  de  Purge  de  Gibier). 

Prepare  them  exactly  as  for  a  1'Andalouse  (No.  934),  put  into  a  saucepan  some  game  puree 
(No.  716),  either  of  snipe,  partridge,  quail,  pheasant  or  young  rabbit;  heat  it  without  boiling  over 
a  slow  fire,  incorporating  into  it  a  few  spoonsfuls  of  half-glaze  (No.  400);  season,  finish  with  a 
small  piece  of  fine  butter,  garnish  the  patties,  dress  and  serve  very  hot. 

^937).  FRESH  MUSHROOM  PATTIES  (Bouche'es  de  Champignons  Frais). 
Cut  some  raw  fresh  mushrooms  in  squares,  fry  them  in  butter,  and  add  to  them  some  cream 
and  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  and  fresh  butter,  add  some  chopped 
parsley.     Finish  exactly  the  same  as  for  No.  934. 

(938).  PATTIES  A  LA  REINE  (Bouche'es  a  la  Reine). 

Pound  well  half  a  pound  of  white  meat  taken  from  the  breast  of  a  cooked  chicken,  using  the 
same  quantity  of  rice;  press  through  a  sieve,  and  set  the  puree  into  a  saucepan  to  heat  without 
boiling,  incorporating  into  it  one  ounce  of  fine  butter,  and  season  with  a  little  salt;  if  it  should 
be  too  thick,  add  some  cream.  The  chicken  puree  may  be  replaced  by  a  small  salpicon  of  white 
chicken  meat  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  added  to  a  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced 
with  cream.  Instead  of  using  the  puff  paste  lid,  lay  on  top  a  round  piece  of  truffle,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  glazed  with  a  little  meat 
glaze  (No.  402). 


388  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(939).  SCOLLOP,  OYSTEK,  CLAM,  OE  MUSSEL  PATTIES  (Bouche"es  de  Potencies,  d'Hmtres,  Luci- 

nes  ou  Monies). 

Blanch  oysters  or  clams  in  their  own  juice.  Cook  mussels  in  white  wine  with  pepper  and 
a  tew  drops  of  vinegar;  scollops  in  a  little  white  wine.  Drain  and  cut  either  of  these  into  quarter 
inch  squares,  fry  them  in  some  butter  on  a  hot  fire,  and  cover  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
thickening  the  sauce  with  egg-yolks,  and  fresh  butter.  Fill  the  patties  and  serve  them  very  hot. 

(940).    SWEETBREAD    PATTIES,  FEENOH    STYLE    Vouchees    de    Eis    de   Veau   a  la  Fran- 

yaise). 

Soak  and  blanch  some  sweetbreads  in  hot  water,  then  refresh  and  let  get  cold  before  cutting 
ihem  up  into  thin  slices;  season,  cook  or  fry  on  both  sides  in  oil,  without  browning,  then  press  to  a 
quarter  inch  thick  when  cool,  and  cut  them  into  small  quarter  inch  dice.  Lay  this  salpicon  in  a 
small  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  half  its  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms,  and  a  quarter  as  much  salted 
but  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  cut  the  same  size,  dilute  this  salpicon  with  a  sauce  made  of  broth 
(No.  194a),  and  fecula  which  has  previously  been  diluted  with  cold  broth;  let  simmer  for  a  few 
moments,  season  and  use  it  to  fill  some  puff  paste  bouchees  made  with  beef  suet  instead  of  butter 
(No.  146);  range  and  dress  them  pyramidically  on  folded  napkins,  heating  them  for  a  few  seconds 
at  the  oven  door  before  sending  to  the  table. 

(941).  TUEBIGO  PATTIES  (Bouchees  Turbigo). 

These  are  made  with  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  dice  of  duck's  livers,  truffles  and 
artichoke  bottoms,  mixed  with  a  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  pressed  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  adding 
the  same  quantity  of  well  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Heat  well  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks 
and  cream;  fill  the  patties  with  this  garnishing,  and  replace  the  covers  by  a  small  half  inch  ball  of 
foies-gras  taken  from  the  terrine  and  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  dipped  in  eggs,  bread-crumbed 
and  fried. 

(942).  VIOTOEIA  PATTIES  (Bouchees  a  la  Victoria). 

Cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  dice,  some  lobster  meat  and  truffles;  cover  them  with  a  lobster  sauce 
(No.  488),  adding  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  heat  well  without  boiling,  and  fill  the  prepared 
patties  (No.  934).  Range  them  on  folded  napkins  and  serve  hot. 

(943).  SALPIOON  OF  FOIES-GEAS,  MONTGLAS,   EEGENOE,  EOYAL  PATTIES  (Bouchers  de 
Salpicon  de  Foies-gras,  Montglas,  Ee"gence,  Eoyale). 

Either  of  foies-gras  salpicon  (No.  743),  montglas  (No.  747),  regence  (No.  750),  or  royal  (No. 
751).  After  the  patties  (No.  934)  are  cooked,  remove  the  covers,  empty  the  insides,  and  fill  with 
either  of  the  above  salpicons.  Dress  them  very  hot  on  napkins,  and  serve  at  once. 

(944).  PUFF  PASTE  PATTIES  OF  VEAL  GODIVEAU  WITH  CHIVES,  CEACOVIAN,  MAZAEIN 
OE  ST.  HUBEET  (Petits  Pate's  Feuillete"s  de  Godireau,  aux  Ciboulettes  Oracovienne, 
Mazarin  ou  St.  Hubert). 

Small  patties  are  frequently  served  as  a  hot  hors-d'oeuvre;  they  should  be  cooked  only  while 
the  oysters  are  being  eaten,  so  to  have  them  ready  to  send  to  the  table  after  the  soup. 

Small  Patties  of  Veal  Godiveau. — Roll  out  thin  some  fragments  of  puff  paste;  remove 
from  it  round  pieces  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  turn  them  over  on  to 
a  baking  sheet  slightly  wetted  with  water,  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose,  and 
lay  in  the  center  of  each  a  veal  godiveau  (No.  85)  ball,  one  inch  and  a  quarter 
in  diameter.  Moisten  the  paste  around  the  godiveau  with  a  brush  slightly 
wetted  with  water,  and  place  on  top  another  puff  paste  round,  three-sixteenths  of 
FIG.  233.  an  inch  in  thickness-,  turn  them  over,  and  fasten  the  two  edges  together.  Mark 

some  lines  on  the  top  of  the  paste  with  the  back  of  the  pastry  cutter  an  inch  and 
a  half  in  diameter,  egg  the  surfaces  twice,  and  cook  them  in  a  brisk  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 

Small  Patties  of  Godiveau  with  Chives.  —  Fill  the  patties  with  some  veal  godiveau  (No.  85),  to 
which  has  been  mixed  some  chopped  chives  and  parsley. 

Small  Patties  of  Godiveau  Cracovian  are  made  with  pike  godiveau  (No.  83),  and  cooked  fine 
herbs,  and  garnished  and  finished  like  patties  of  godiveau  of  veal. 


SIDE    DISHES.  380 

Small  Patties  Mazarin. — Take  chicken  godiveau  (No.  82)  and  mix  with  it  truffles,  tongue  and 
mushrooms  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  also  some  raw  fine  herbs;  finish  the  same  as  for 
the  veal  godiveau  (No.  85). 

Small  Patties  a  la  St.  Hubert,  are  to  be  made  with  game  godiveau  (No.  84),  mixing  in  with 
it  truffles,  mushrooms,  tongue  cut  in  squares  and  some  glaze  (No.  402),  and  finishing  exactly  the 
same  as  the  veal  godiveau  (No.  85). 

(945).  PUFP  PASTE  SALMON  PATTIES-SMALL  (Petits  Pate's  leuffletfe  de  Saumon). 
Prepare  a  fish  forcemeat  (No.  83)  with  salmon  meat,  and  a  third  part  of  pike;  after  being 
pressed  through  a  sieve,  put  it  in  a  bowl,  and  render  it  smooth,  mixing  in  with  it  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  up  cooked  truffles  and  a  small  piece  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  569).  With  this 
prenaration  and  some  puff  paste  make  about  fifteen  small  patties  the  same  as  described  in  No.  934, 
egg  the  surfaces  and  cook  them  in  a  good  oven;  when  done  remove  them  from  the  baking  sheet 
and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(946).  GOLDEN  BUCK,  WELSH  EAEEBIT  A  LA  CUTTING  OK  YOEKSHIEE  (Golden  Buck, 

Welsh  Earebit  &  la  Cutting  ou  Yorkshire). 

Golden  Buck. — Cut  some  best  quality  American  cheese;  not  too  fresh,  into  five-eighths  of 
an  inch  squares,  put  these  into  a  sauteing  pan  with  half  a  gill  of  beer,  and  a  pinch  of  red  pepper, 
place  the  pan  on  a  hot  fire,  and  stir  well  the  mixture  with  a  small  wire  whisk  until  the  cheese  is 
melted  and  flowing.  Lay  on  a  serving  dish  two  slices  of  toasted  bread,  each  three  and  a  half 
inches  wide,  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  cut  them  slanting  into  four  parts  so  as  to  obtain 
four  triangles,  then  lay  them  together  again  to  form  the  original  square,  and  pour  over  the  melted 
cheese;  on  each  of  the  triangles  place  a  well  drained  poached  egg,  and  serve  immediately. 

Welsh  Rarebit. — Is  made  exactly  the  same  as  the  golden  buck,  suppressing  the  poached  eggs. 

Welsh  Rarebit  a  la  Cutting. — Use  exactly  the  same  preparation  as  the  ordinary  Welsh  rarebit, 
only  the  cheese  to  be  a  little  thinner,  and  add  to  it  just  when  ready  to  serve  a  well  beaten  egg, 
stirring  it  thoroughly  with  the  cheese,  but  at  the  same  time  watch  well  that  it  does  not  boil;  pour 
this  preparation  on  to  the  prepared  toasts. 

Yorkshire  Rarebit. — Is  finished  by  having  two  poached  eggs,  and  two  slices  of  bacon  for  each 
slice  of  toast. 

(946a\  CHESTEE  OEUSTS  (Oroutes  au  Chester). 

Cut  some  slices  from  a  kitchen  loaf,  not  too  thin,  fry  them  in  butter  on  one  side  only  in  a  flat 
saucepan  or  frying-pan;  drain  and  cover  the  fried  side  with  a  thick  layer  of  Chester  cheese,  sprinkle 
over  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Lay  the  crust  again  in  the  pan  with  more  butter  and  push 
into  a  hot  oven.  When  the  cheese  becomes  creamy,  the  under  part  of  the  crusts  should  be  dry, 
then  remove  from  the  oven  and  serve. 

(947),  EISSOLES  OF  BEAIN,  PKINOETOWN  (Eissoles  de  Cervelles  &  la  Princetown), 
Koll  out  a  thin  layer  of  brioche  paste  (No.  130),  cut  round  pieces  from  it  with  a  three  inch  in 
diameter  pastry  cutter.     Stir  into  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
very  finely  chopped  onions,  and  add  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  reduced 
ri.llemande  sauce  (No.  407).     Cut  half  a  pound  of  brains  into  quarter  inch 
dice  pieces;  wipe  them  dry,  and  fry  them  in  butter  on  a  hot  fire  with  half 
their  quantity  of  mushrooms,  season  and  add  this  to  the  prepared  sauce, 
then  lay  it  aside  to  get  cold.     With  this  preparation  garnish  the  pieces,  FIO.  234. 

forming  it  into  balls  each  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  moisten  around, 
and  fold  the  paste  over  in  two,  then  set  it  aside  to  rise  in  a  moderately  warm  place;  when  double 
the  original  size,  fry  the  rissoles  slowly  until  they  are  cooked  and  of  a  nice  color,  then  dress  them 
on  folded  napkins,  and  serve. 

(948).  EISSOLES  OF  CHICKEN  (Eissoles  de  Volaille). 

Slice  half  a  pound  of  chicken  and  cut  it  into  Julienne  (No.  318),  as  well  as  four  ounces  of  mush- 
rooms and  two  ounces  of  peeled  truffles;  mix  them  in  with  five  gills  of  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415) 
previously  thickened  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  steadily 


390  THE    EPICUREAN. 

until  it  boils,  then  remove  and  set  the  preparation  aside  to  cool.  With  this  preparation  make 
some  rissoles;  bread-crumb  them  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  161  and  fry  in  very  hot  white 
frying  fat;  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  and  decorate  the  top  with  fried  parsley.  All  rissoles  are 
dressed  and  decorated  the  same. 

(949).  EISSOLES  OF  OEAWFISH  A  LA  BEATEICE  (Kissoles  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  Beatrice). 
Poach  some  pike  forcemeat  (No.  76)  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cut  it  up 
irto  squares;  add  to  these  half  as  much  crawfish  cut  into  the  same  sized  pieces,  half  the  quantity  of 
forcemeat  as  mushrooms  and  half  the  quantity  of  mushrooms  as  truffles.  Reduce  this  salpicon 
down  with  cream  bechamel  (No.  411)  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fine  butter,  and  with 
this  preparation  proceed  to  make  rissoles  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  947.  Serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(950).  EISSOLES  A  LA  DEMIDOFF  (Eissoles  a  la  Demidoff). 

Roll  out  some  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  divide  it  into 
rounds  with  a  channelled  three  and  a  half  inch  in  diameter  pastry  cutter,  and  lay  in  the  center  of 
each  a  ball  of  preparation  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Wet  around  these,  fold  over,  and  fasten 
the  two  edges  together,  then  lay  them  on  a  floured  cloth,  and  leave  them  to  rise  in  a  mild  tempera- 
ture until  double  their  height;  fry  them  slowly  in  very  hot  fat  so  that  the  paste  be  thoroughly 
cooked  and  serve  when  done  on  folded  napkins.  For  the  preparation  cut  about  two  ounces  of 
mushrooms,  two  ounces  of  truffles  and  two  ounces  of  breast  of  pheasant;  heat  well  with  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  until  boiling  point;  allow  to  cool;  use  this  preparation  to  garnish  the  rissoles. 

(951).  EISSOLES  OF  FAT  LIVEES  A  LA  UDE  (Eissoles  de  Foies-Gras  a  la  Ude). 

Take  out  the  contents  of  a  pound  terrine  of  foies-gras;  remove  all  the  grease  from  the  force- 
meat, and  cut  the  liver  into  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  and  put  them  aside  in  a  very  cool  place. 
Pound  the  forcemeat  found  around  the  liver  without  any  of  the  grease,  add  to  it  nine  raw  egg- 
yolks,  season  to  taste,  and  put  in  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  and 
the  fat  liver  cut  in  pieces.  Roll  out  very  thin  some  fragments  of  puff  paste,  having  it  only 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  with  a  channeled  pastry  cutter  round  pieces,  three  inches  in 
diameter,  and  lay  in  the  center  of  each,  an  inch  and  a  quarter  sized  ball.  Moisten  around  with  a 
brush  slightly  wetted  with  cold  water,  fold  them  over,  fasten  well  the  edges  so  that  the  interior  is 
hermetically  enclosed,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat 
xor  a  sufficient  length  of  time,  to  allow  the  paste  to  cook  properly;  dress  them  on  a  dish  over  a 
iolded  napkin. 

(952).  EISSOLES  OF  GAME,  CHICKEN  OE  FISH  FOEOEMEAT,  BEEF  OE  VEAL  FALATE  OE 
LAMB  (Eissoles  de  Farce  de  Gibier,  de  Volaille,  on  de  Poisson  de  Palais  de  Bceuf  ou  de 
Veau,  ou  d'Agneau). 

For  the  rissoles  of  game,  chicken,  or  fish  forcemeat  see  No.  63.  Mix  in  with  either  of  these 
some  raw  fine  herbs;  prepare  and  finish  the  same  as  for  the  rissoles  in  Elementary  Methods 
(No.  161). 

Beef  or  Veal  Palate. — Cut  a  pound  of  beef  or  veal  palate  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares; 
have  also  six  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  cut  the  same  and  put  them  with  some  bechamel  (No.  409) 
and  melted  meat-glaze  (No.  402) ;  set  aside  to  get  quite  cold.  Roll  out  fragments  of  puff  paste  and 
finish  the  rissoles  as  for  No.  161.  Serve  on  folded  napkins. 

Lamb. — Chop  up  finely  one  medium  sized  shallot;  fry  it  in  butter,  and  add  to  it  both  veloute 
(No.  415)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  stir  in  a  pound  of  cold  lean  roast  lamb  cut  in  three-six- 
teenth inch  squares,  season  to  taste,  transfer  it  to  a  vessel  to  set  aside  until  perfectly  cold,  then 
form  it  into  rissoles  the  same  as  for  No.  161,  and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(953).  EISSOLES  OF  MUSHEOOM  AND  MAEEOV  (Eissoles  de  Champignons  a  la  Moelle). 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  into  dice  shaped  pieces,  and  fry  them  on  the  fire  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  a  bay  leaf,  two  ounces  of 
sliced  raw  ham,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  also  two  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  a  little 
oroth,  and  some  salt;  let  these  all  cook  slowly,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  when  done  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  set  the  preparation  aside  to  get  cold;  finish  them  the  same  as  explained  a  la  Ude 
(No.  951). 


SIDE    DISHES.  391 

For  Marrow. — Cut  in  half  inch  slices  and  soak  for  three  hours,  changing  the  water  several 
times;  throw  them  into  boiling  broth,  and  when  done,  drain  and  coat  over  with  some  well  reduced 
half-glaze  (No.  400)  with  red  pepper,  and  finish  the  same  as  the  mushroom  rissoles.  Serve  very 
hot  on  napkins. 

(954).  KISSOLES  OF  RED  TONGUE  OR  OF  SWEETBKEADS  (Rissoles  de  Langue  Ecarlate  ou  de 

Ris  de  Veau). 

Red  Tongue. — Reduce  one  pint  and  a  half  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  with  a  little  meat  glaze 
(No.  402),  and  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  add  to  it  one  pound  of  red  veal  tongue  cooked  and 
cooled  under  a  weight,  then  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  eight  ounces  of  mushrooms  and 
two  ounces  of  truffles,  the  two  latter  articles  being  cut  into  eighth  of  inch  pieces;  heat  the  mixture 
well  until  boiling  point  is  reached,  then  set  it  aside  to  get  cold.  Use  this  preparation  for  making  the 
rissoles  the  same  as  No.  161,  and  serve  them  on  folded  napkins. 

Sweetbreads.— Fry  one  ounce  of  chopped  up  onions  in  butter  with  one  pound  of  braised  sweet- 
breads previously  pressed  under  a  weight  to  reduce  it  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
then  cut  into  Julienne;  add  some  cooked  and  well  drained  mushrooms,  diluting  the  whole  with 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  thicken  properly  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter,  add  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  set  this  preparation  aside  to  cool  and  finish  the  rissoles  as  for 
No.  161,  Serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(955).  RISSOLES  OF  PARTRIDGE  A  LA  WADDINGTON  (Rissoles  de  Perdreaux  a  la  Waddington). 

Chop  up  very  fine  one  pound  of  raw  partridge  meat  free  of  nerves,  with  five  ounces  of  blanched 
fat  pork,  and  five  ounces  of  beef  marrow;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  add  two 
ounces  of  chopped  up  truffles,  one  whole  egg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  half-glaze  (No.  400);  make 
rissole  balls  with  this  preparation  the  same  way  as  explained  for  No.  947;  dress  them  when 
finished  in  pyramids  on  a  napkin,  garnishing  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 

(956.i.  RISSOLETTES  A  LA  POMPADOUR  (Rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour). 

Rissolettes  are  made  with  very  thin  pancakes,  cutting  them  into  round  pieces  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter;  the  salpicon  ball  to  be  an  inch;  they  are  fastened  together  by  a  string  of 
chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89),  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  laid  on  one-half  of  the  circles.  The 
paste  for  the  pancakes  is  composed  of  half  a  pound  of  flour,  stirring  gradually  into  it,  five  eggs,  a 
little  milk,  salt  and  two  ounces  of  melted  butter;  the  paste  must  be  liquid.  Put  some  clarified 
butter  into  small  frying  pans,  add  a  little  of  the  paste  and  spread  it  around  so  as  to  form  very 
thin  pancakes;  when  done  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  and  cut  from  them  with  a  round  two  and  a  half 
inch  in  diameter  pastry  cutter,  pieces  for  the  rissolettes. 

Rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour. — Have  a  small  Julienne  salpicon  of  beef  palate  and  mushrooms 
mixed  with  a  little  well-reduced  and  well-seasoned  bechamel  (No.  409),  set  into  a  vessel  to  get  cold. 
Make  a  ball  of  this  preparation  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  lay  it  on  the  center  of  one  of  the 
pancake  rounds,  two  and  a  half  inches  wide;  fold  the  pancake  and  fasten  the  two  edges  together 
with  a  string  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89);  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and 
fry  them  to  a  fine  color.  Serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(957).  RISSOLETTES  A  LA  RENAN  (Rissolettes  a  la  Renan). 

Prepare  a  chicken  puree  by  pounding  together  half  a  pound  of  chicken  and  half  a  pound  of 
rice  cooked  in  white  broth,  adding  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
and  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  season,  press  through  a  tammy,  let  get  thoroughly  cold,  then  finish 
making  the  rissolettes  the  same  as  for  a  la  pompadour  (No.  956). 

(958).  RISSOLETTES  A  LA  SOLFERINO  (Rissolettes  a  la  Solfe"rino). 

Cut  some  foies-gras,  truffles,  mushrooms,  quenelles  and  sweetbreads  into  small  three-sixteenth 
inch  squares;  put  this  salpicon  into  a  well-reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  when  cold  make 
the  rissolettes  with  this  salpicon,  the  same  as  for  a  la  pompadour  (No.  956). 


392 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(959),  TIMBALES,  REMARKS  Off  (Observations  sur  les  Timbales). 

There  are  several  kinds  of  tinabales;  those  made  with  a  very  thin  timbale  paste;  those  of  que- 
nelle forcemeat  and  those  of  cream  forcemeat,  either  of  chicken,  game  or  fish.  The  name  timbale 
should  only  be  applied  to  those  made  of  paste  cylindrical-shaped  like  a  footless  goblet,  or  a  silver 
mug,  or  else  half  spherical-shaped  in  imitation  of  the  kettle-drum  used  in  an  orchestra  and  filled 
with  a  garnishing  of  some  kind.  A  "bung"  would  better  represent  the  idea  of  what  is  commonly 
called  timbale,  and  I  would  suggest  the  adoption  of  the  French  of  bung  "  bondon,  "  for  I 
scarcely  believe  that  the  elegance  of  the  bill  of  fare  would  be  marred  by  reading:  "  Bondons  of 
Pickerel  a  la  Walton,"  or  "  Bondons  of  Chicken  a  la  Reine,"  or  "Bondons  of  Woodcock  a,  la 
Diane,"  or  "  Bondons  of  Pheasants  a  la  Benois."  I  have  not  the  slightest  intention  of  changing 
the  conventional  name.  I  only  suggest  an  idea  that  might  he  advantageously  followed  if  so  de- 
sired. For  making  timbales  cylindrical  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  two  and  five-eighths  inches  wide 
by  two  and  one-eighth  inches  high  are  generally  used;  butter  the  insides  with  fresh  unmelted 
butter  and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  tongue,  pistachios,  etc.  They  may  also  be  strewn 
with  truffles,  tongue,  lobster  coral  and  pistachios,  all  these  being  chopped  up  finely  and  separate- 
ly, then  dried  in  the  air.  Fill  with  forcemeat  either  with  or  without  a  salpicon,  then  poach;  for 
this  consult  Elementary  Methods  (No.  152).  Invert  on  to  a  dish  containing  a  little  consomme 
and  serve  the  sauce  that  accompanies  the  timbales  separately. 

(960).  TIMBALES  A  LA  BEAUMAROHAIS  (Timbales  a  la  Beaumarchais). 

Make  a  salpicon  with  mushrooms  and  foies-gras  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares; 
mix  them  in  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  game  essence  (No.  389) 
and  let  get  cold.     Butter  and  decorate  the  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.   137)  with  a  large 
truffle  ring  at  the  bottom,  and  a  small  piece  of  truffle  in  the  center  of  this;  ornament 
the  sides  with  eight  perpendicular  thin  slices  of  truffles  each  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch  wide,   laid  at  equal  distances  apart  around  the  mold;  cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  a  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91);  in  the  middle  place  a  half  inch  in 
FIG.  235.        diameter  ball  of  the  salpicon,  lay  over  more  forcemeat,  and  poach  the  timbales  as 
in  No.  152.     Serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  with  essence  of  game 
(No.  389)  and  Rhine  wine  added. 


FIG  236 


(961),  TIMBALES  A  LA  BENTON  (Timbales  a  la  Benton). 

Line  some  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  some  timbale  paste 
(No.  150),  having  it  rolled  out  as  thinly  as  possible;  fill  up  the  interior  with 
buttered  paper  stuffed  with  flour,  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  the  paste  and  pinch 
the  edges  with  a  pastry  tong;  egg  over  the  surface  twice,  and. cook  it  in  a  moderate 
oven;  when  done  uncover,  empty  out,  unmold,  and  brush  the  timbales  with  eggs 
and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  color  nicely.  Fill  them  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles, 
tongue,  mushrooms  and  chicken  mingled  with  a  buttered  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407). 

(962),  TIMBALES  A  LA  OALAISIENNE  (Timbales  a  la  Oalaisienne). 

Prepare  the  timbales  the  same  as  for  a  la  Benton  (No.  961).  Have  a 
garnishing  of  either  poached  oysters  or  mussels,  or  else  of  both,  and  crawfish, 
or  shrimps  cooked  and  shelled.  Cut  the  mussels  into  five-eighths  of  an  inch  squares, 
and  the  crawfish  or  shrimps  into  quarter  of  an  inch  pieces;  reduce  a  normande 
sauce  (No.  509),  with  the  oyster  juice  or  some  mushroom  broth,  and  add  to  it  a 
little  fish  glaze  (No.  399);  put  the  garnishing  and  sauce  together,  heat  well,  and  fill 
the  timbales  with  it.  Place  on  top  a  cover  composed  of  three  rolled  out  layers  of 
puff  paste,  each  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  the  bottom  one  measuring  an 
half  across,  the  next  one  an  inch  and  a  quarter,  and  the  top  one  three-quarters  of  an 

(963).  TIMBALES  A  LA  OHEVALIERE  (Timbales  k  la  Ohevaliere). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.   137)  using  kneaded  butter,  but  neither  melted  nor 
Uret.     Decoi-ate  the  sides  with  pieces  of  sweet  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  executed  by  cutting  out 


FIG.  237. 

inch  and  a 
inch. 


SIDE    DISHES. 


393 


fanciful  pieces  and  laying  them  on  the  sides  in  a  design  formed  of  two  back  to  back 
divided  by  three  rounds  of  different  sizes,  the  largest  one  on  the  top  and  decreasing 
in  size  to  the  bottom,  moisten  the  noodle  paste.  Line  the  molds  with  a  thin 
timbale  paste  (No.  150)  without  disturbing  the  decoration.  Fill  inside  with  some 
buttered  paper  and  flour,  cover  over  with  a  layer  of  thin  paste,  cut  it  evenly 
around  the  top,  and  pinch  the  edges  with  a  pastry  tong.  Cook  the  timbales  in 
a  moderate  oven;  remove  the  lid  and  the  insides,  and  brush  over  the  paste  with 
some  glaze,  then  garnish  with  foies-gras,  mushrooms,  and  balls  of  truffles,  the 
whole  combined  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492).  Lay  on  top  some  cocks'-combs 
and  kidneys  rolled  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  arranging  them  tastefully. 


FIG.  238. 


FIG.  239. 


(964),  DUCHESS  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Duchesse). 

Prepare  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  foies-gras,  artichoke  bottoms,  and  rings  of  olives,  made  by 
removing  the  stones  with  a  tin  tube,  and  cutting  them  in  slices  across;  mix  with 
a  well  reduced  flnanciere  sauce  (No.  464),  and  let  get  cold.  Decorate  the  bottom 
of  the  mold  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  a  ring  of  truffle,  and  fill  in  the  empty  space  of 
this  with  some  chopped  up  pistachios;  lay  at  equal  distances  at  lower  edge  of  the 
side  of  the  mold,  ten  small  round  pieces  of  beef  tongue,  each  one  three-sixteenths  of 
an  inch  in  circumference;  and  from  these  set  bands  of  truffle  perpendicularly 
reaching  to  the  top  of  the  mold,  each  one  being  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
width;  garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  layer  of  quenelle  chicken  forcemeat 
(No.  89),  and  place  in  the  center  a  half  inch  diameter  ball  of  the  salpicon;  cover  with  more 
forcemeat,  then  poach  and  finish  the  same  as  for  No.  959.  Serve  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492) 
separately. 

(965).  TIMBALES  A  LA  DUMAS  (Timbales  a  la  Dumas). 

For  the  salpicon  have  some  well  reduced  Duxelle,  and  mix  in  truffles  with  raw  egg-yolks. 
Decorate  the  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  by  placing  in  the  center  of  the  bottom  a 
round  piece  of  tongue,  and  at  equal  distances,  around  this  four  round  bits  of 
truffles;  make  four  triangles  the  length  of  the  mold  from  slices  of  tongue,  each  one 
being  an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide,  lay  them  on  symmetrically,  and  place  eight  round 
bits  of  truffle  inside  of  each  triangle  near  the  bottom,  and  eight  moi-e  near  the 
top,  intersecting  them  alternately.     Garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  with  chicken 
cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  lay  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon  in  the  center,  and         Fia-  240> 
cover  with  more  forcemeat,  poach,  unmold,  and  serve  with  a  light  ravigote  sauce  (No.   531). 

(966).  TIMBALES  POE  GOUEMETS  (Timbales  des  Gourmets). 

The  salpicon  for  these  is  composed  of  a  reduced  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  to  which  is  added 
some  ducks'  livers  and  truffles  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  dice;  leave  till  cold.  Lay  on 
the  bottom  of  the  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter 
slice  of  truffle,  and  arrange  the  sides  in  panels,  made  by  placing  eight  perpendicular 
bands  of  of  truffles  an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide  all  around  at  intervals,  and  between 
each  two  arrange  narrow  strips  to  connect  them,  three  in  one,  and  two  in  the  other, 
so  that  they  alternate  and  form  distinct  oblongs,  and  in  each  one  of  these  oblongs — 
there  being  two  on  one  row,  and  one  and  two  halves  on  the  other — lay  oval  pieces 
of  red  beef  tongue.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat 
(No.  75),  and  place  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon  in  the  center;  fill  with  more  forcemeat,  and 
finish  the  same  as  timbales  (No.  959).  Serve  separately  a  gourmet  sauce  (No.  472). 

(967).  HAELEQUIN  TIMBALES  (Timbales  k  1'Arlequin), 

Prepare  a  salpicon  of  artichoke  bottoms  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  mix  them  in 
with  a  well  buttered  cold  supreme  sauce  (No.  547).  Decorate  the  timbale  molds 
(No.  2,  Fig.  137)  by  placing  a  ring  cut  from  a  truffle  in  the  center  of  the  bottom, 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  narrower  than  the  bottom  itself,  and  in  the  center  of  this 
ring  lay  a  round  piece  of  tongue;  ornament  the  sides  with  alternate  lozenges  of 
truffles,  red  beef  tongue,  and  some  royal  (No.  241)  cut  thin;  also  lozenges  of 
forcemeat  prepared  as  follows:  Have  two  ounces  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89) 
with  chopped  truffles  added,  and  the  same  quantity  of  forcemeat  with  chopped 
pistachios;  spread  a  layer  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  of  each  preparation  of  force- 
meat on  sheets  of  paper;  poach  till  firm  to  the  touch,  let  cool  and  cut  in  lozenges  to  use  for  decor- 
ating  the  timbales.  Cover  the  decoration  with  a  coating  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 


FIG.  241. 


394 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  244. 


place  in  the  center  a  half  inch  diameter  ball  of  the  prepared  salpicon,  cover  over  \vith  more 
forcemeat,  then  poach  and  unmold  the  timbales  as  described  in  No.  959.  Serve  separately  a  veloute 
pauee  (No.  415),  reduced  with  a  puree  of  onions  (No.  723)  and  cream,  and  thicken  it  at  the  last 
moment  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

(968).  IMPERIAL  TIMBALES  (Timbales  Imperial). 

The  salpicon  to  be  made  of  a  well  reduced  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  adding  to  it  tongue,  truffles 
and  mushrooms  cut  in  small  Julienne.     Cut  some  narrow  bands  of  truffles,  a  six- 
teenth of  an  inch  wide,  and  six-eighths  of  an  inch  long;  butter  the  molds  (No.  2, 
Fig.  137),  set  a  five-eighths  of  an  inch  round  of  truffle  at  the  bottom  and  on  the 
side  close  to  the  bottom  a  row  of  quarter  inch  in  diameter  rounds  of  truffles  at  the 
top  opening  of  the  mold,  lay  these  bands  in  long  triangles  around  the  edge;  on  the 
top  of  each  triangle  set  a  three-sixteenth  inch  round  piece  truffle;  cover  the  insides 
Fig.  243.         of  the  molds  with  cream  forcemeat   (No.  74),  and  in  the  center  lay  a  half  inch 
ball  of  the  salpicon,  finish  filling  the  mold,  poach   and  dress  it  the  same  as  for  No.  959.     A 
lucullus  sauce  (No.  490)  to  be  served  separately. 

(969).  IRVING  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Irving). 

Pound  some  cooked  game  or  young  rabbit,  free  of  all  sinews  and  skin  with  an  equal  quantity  of  rice, 
half  as  much  bechamel  (No.  409)  and  a  little  fresh  butter,  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  set  it  away  to  get  cold.  Butter  some  cold  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  and 
decorate  the  bottom  with  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  slice  of  truffle, 
and  the  sides  with  triangles  cut  from  truffles,  one  and  five-eighths  of  an  inch 
long,  by  three-eighths  of  an  inch  wide  at  the  widest  part.  Set  them  round  the 
narrow  ends  reaching  to  the  bottom,  the  widest  ends  meeting  together  at  the 
opening  of  the  timbale.  Fill  the  bottom  and  inner  sides  with  game  cream  force- 
meat (No.  75)  and  place  a  ball  of  the  prepared  game  puree  in  the  center,  and  fill 
it  up  with  game  forcemeat;  finish  cooking  and  serve  same  as  No.  959.  Serve  separately  a 
champagne  sauce  (No.  445),  with  some  essence  of  game  (No.  389). 

(970).  LAGARDERE  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Lagardere). 

Make  a  salpicon  of  mushrooms  and  beef  palates  combined  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407) 
reduced  \vithmushroom  essence  (No.  392),  the  pieces  for  the  salpicon  to  be  cut  into  three-sixteenths 
of  inch  squares.  Have  round  molds  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  having  at 
the  bottom  an  indent  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  by  one  inch  in  diameter,  the 
molds  to  be  one  and  five-eighths  of  an  inch  high,  and  two  inches  and  one- 
eighth  wide  at  the  opening.  Decorate  the  molds  after  buttering  them  when 
cold  with  triangles  of  truffles,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long  by  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  wide;  lay  them  close  together  around  the  opening  of  the  mold,  and 
on  the  top  of  each  point  set  a  round  bit  of  tongue,  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch;  garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  and 
fill  the  center  of  the  inside  with  a  salpicon  ball  half  an  inch  in  diameter;  fill  up 
the  mold  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  finishing  it  the  same  as  for  No.  950.  Set  on  top  in 
the  indent  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  ball  of  very  fine  chestnut  puree  (No.  712)  quite  thick, 
bread-crumb  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat,  and  serve  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  with  essence  of 
mushrooms  (No.  392 )  separately. 

(971).  LA  VALLIERE  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  La  Valliere). 
The  molds  are  to  be  dome-shaped,  with  an  indent   a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and 
diameter;  the  molds   themselves  being  an  inch  and  three-quarters  high  and  one 
and  five-eighths  wide.     Decorate  the  sides  with  bands  of  truffle  each  one  inch  long, 
and  lay  them  on  like  the  letter  V,  meeting  together  both  top  and  bottom  and  thus 
forming  zigzags;  at  each  place  where  they  join,  put  a  small  round  bit  of  truffle; 
fill  the  round  part  of  the  mold  with  a  red  cream  forcemeat  (No.  74)  and  the  rest 
with  a  quail  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75).     Remove  with  a  tube  the  stone  from  a 
large  Spanish  olive,  cut  off  a  sixteenth  part  of  its  top  and  bottom  and  fill  it  with 
chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  place  on  top  a  fine  caper;  poach  and  set 
one  on  the  indents  of  the  timbales,   they  having  been  previously  poached  and 
dished,  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
juice  added. 


FIG.  245. 


one  inch  in 


FIG    246. 

with  lemon 


JJISHKS. 


395 


(972).  LOMBAEDY  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Lombarde). 

Line  buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  thin  timbale  paste  (No.  150),  garnish  the 
sides  with  buttered  paper,  and  fill  the  center  with  rice;  cover  over  with  a  small 
piece  of  buttered  paper,  moisten  lightly  the  inside  border  of  the  timbales,  and  cover 
with  a  layer  of  paste;  fasten  the  two  together,  pinch  the  border  with  a  channeled 
pastry  tong,  egg  over  the  top  and  place  on  it  three  small  layers  of  thin  puff 
paste,  the  lowest  one  being  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  the  second,  one  and  a 
quarter,  and  the  last  or  top  one,  one  inch,  all  three  being  cut  out  with  a 
channeled  pastry  cutter.  Cook  the  timbales  in  a  moderate  oven,  remove  the  lids, 
empty  out  the  rice  and  paper,  unmold  and  egg  over  the  outside,  then  set  them 
in  a  quick  oven;  garnish  the  insides  with  pieces  of  chestnuts,  sweetbreads  and 
truffles  cut  into  quarter  inch  squares,  and  mixed  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  replace 
the  covers  and  serve  on  a  Lombard  sauce  (No.  489). 


(973).  MAELY  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Marly). 

Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  timbale  mold  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  a  round  piece  of  truffle, 
and  the  entire  sides  with  thin  truffle  crescents  intercalated  to  resemble  fish  scales; 
in  the  center  of  each  scale,  lay  a  small  one-eighth  of  an  inch  round  bit  of  tongue. 
Fill  them  with  a  partridge  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  set  in  the  center  a 
ball  of  salpicon  made  as  follows:  Mingle  some  partridge  fumet  (No.  397)  with  a 
reduced  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  add  to  it  some  foies-gras  and  mushrooms,  both 
cut  into  one-eighth  inch  squares,  and  left  till  cold  before  using.  Poach  the 
timbales  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done,  dress  and  serve  separately  a  sauce  com- 
posed of  one-third  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  one-third  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549), 
and  one-third  of  veal  blond  (No.  423)  reduced  together. 


FIG.  5i48. 


(974).  MENTANA  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Mentana). 

The  salpicon  to  be  made  of  chicken  livers  a  la  Duxelle,  (see  below),  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  to 
be  used  when  cold.    Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  and  place  on  the 
bottom  a  one  inch  in  diameter  slice  of  truffle,  cut  away  the  center  with  a  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  vegetable  cutter,  and  replace  the  truffle  by  a  piece  of  red 
beef  tongue.     Decorate  the  sides  of  the  mold  with  thin,  eighth  of  an  inch  wide 
strips  of  tongue,  laid  on  slanting,  having   ten  strips  in  all,  and  in  the  center 
between  every  one,  a  round  bit  of  truffle  measuring  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
across,   with  a  smaller  one  one-eighth  of  an  inch  on  the  top  and  bottom,   also 
laid  on  slanting,   making    three  round  bits  of  truffle  between  the  two  strips  of 
tongue.     Fill  the  insides  and  bottom  with  a  chicken  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75), 
and  in  the  center  lay  a  ball  of  the  prepared  salpicon;  then  more  forcemeat,  and  finish  them  as  for 
No.  959.     Serve  separately  a  perigueux  (No.  517)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed. 

For  salpicon  of  chicken  livers  a  la  Duxelle,  cut  some  chicken  livers  in  quarter  inch  squares; 
fry  them  in  butter  with  a  little  shallot,  mushroom,  and  truffles,  all  chopped  finely,  and  mingle 
with  a  little  well  reduced  half-glaze  (No.  400). 


FIG.  249. 


(975).  MONTGOMEEY  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Montgomery). 

Prepare  a  pheasant  salpicon  with  truffles  and  mushrooms  added,  mixing  them  in  with  a  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  add  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  leave  till  cold.  Butter  a 
round  timbale  mold,  having  a  round  identation  at  the  bottom;  decorate  the 
whole  length  of  the  flat  side  with  strips  of  tongue,  and  place  a  dot  of  truffle  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter  on  the  top  of  each  strip,  having  eight  in  all;  dredge 
over  the  sides  with  finely  chopped  pistachios,  and  cover  the  bottom  and  sides 
with  a  delicate  pheasant  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  set  in  the  center 
a  ball  of  the  salpicon;  fill  the  mold  with  some  more  of  the  same  forcemeat,  poach 
and  dress  (No.  959),  place  on  top  a  small  round  croquette  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  diameter  made  of  the  salpicon.  Serve  separately  a  veloute1  sauce  (No.  415), 
finished  with  essence  of  game  (No.  389). 


FIG.  250. 


396 


THE    EPICUREAN 


FIG.  251. 


Fro.  252. 


(976).  MOSAIC  TIMBALES  (Timbales  Mosaique). 

The  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  are  to  be  entirely  decorated  with  small  lozenges  of  tongue, 
truffle  and  hard  boiled  egg-whites,  to  represent  a  mosaic  ground  work.  Begin  by- 
placing  a  ring  of  truffle  at  the  bottom  of  the  mold,  inside  of  this  a  smaller  ring  of 
egg-whites,  and  in  the  center  to  fit  in  a  half  inch  round  of  beef  tongue;  this  fills 
the  entire  bottom.  Decorate  the  sides  with  alternate  lozenges  to  form  squares  or 
boxes,  having  all  the  red  on  one  side,  the  black  on  the  other,  and  the  white  on  top 
of  each  square;  the  upper  and  lower  row  should  be  divided  in  two  lengthwise;  by 
following  these  directions  they  will  form  perfect  mosaic  squares,  taking  care  that 
the  points  are  directed  outward;  support  this  decoration  with  a  snipe  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  91);  set  in  the  center  a  ball  made  of  royal  cream  (No.  241),  and 
finish  filling  the  molds;  poach  and  serve  them  as  for  No.  959.  Serve  a  white  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451) 
separately. 

(977).  NEAPOLITAN  TIMBALES  (Timbales  Napolitaine). 

The  salpiconis  composed  of  tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  cut  in  three -sixteenth  of  an  inch 
squares  and  combined  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and 
tomato  sauce  (No.  549) ;  let  cool,  cut  some  macaroni  into  pieces  a  sixteenth  of  an 
inch  long,  fill  the  empty  places  in  each  macaroni  half  of  them  with  a  round 
piece  of  truffle  to  fit  it  exactly,  and  the  other  half  with  beef  tongue  instead  of 
truffles.  Butter  the  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  lay  a  round  piece  of  truffle 
on  the  bottom,  and  around  it  set  the  bits  of  macaroni,  one  row  filled  with  tongue, 
and  over  this,  one  filled  with  truffles;  one  laid  symmetrically  above  the  other  until 
the  mold  is  filled.  Garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  89),  and  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon  in  the  center,  fill  up  with  more  forcemeat 
and  finish  them  exactly  the  same  as  for  No.  959.  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  Neapolitan  sauce 
(No.  507). 

(978).  PALERMITAINE  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Palermitaine). 

The  salpicon  to  be  composed  of  red  beef  tongue,  mushrooms  and  foies-gras,  mingled  with  a 
tomatoed  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Butter  the  interior  of  the  timbale  molds 
(No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  some  well  kneaded,  softened  butter  that  has  not  been  melted, 
and  set  on  the  flat  bottoms  a  thin  round  piece  of  truffle  measuring  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  across.  Cook  till  slightly  firm  some  small  spaghetti  macaroni;  drain  it 
well,  dry,  and  turn  it  in  a  spiral  around  the  entire  inside  of  the  mold  beginning 
at  the  bottom  and  continuing  until  the  mold  is  completely  full;  it  is  better  to  use 
a  single  piece  of  macaroni  for  this.  Support  the  macaroni  with  a  layer 
of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  set  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon  in 
the  center;  cover  with  more  forcemeat  and  finish  the  same  as  for  the  timbales  (No.  959).  Serve 
separately  a  Palermitaine  sauce  (No.  514). 

(979).  PERIGORDINE  TIMBALES  (Timbales  Pengordme). 

Prepare  a  very  consistent  chestnut  pure"e  (No.  712),  adding  to  it  a  little  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  some  fresh  butter  and  raw  egg-yolks;  let  this  get  thoroughly  cold. 
Garnish  the  bottom  of  the  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  a  thin  slice  of 
truffle,  cut  out  the  center  with  a  half  inch  vegetable  cutter,  and  replace  the  piece 
with  a  round  cut  of  tongue  exactly  the  same  size;  fill  up  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
a  chicken  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  set  in  the  center  a  half  inch  ball  of  the 
chestnut  purde;  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat  and  finish  the  same  as  for  timbales 
(No.  959).  Haveaseparate  sauce-boat  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  finished  with  essence  of  truffles 
(No.  395). 

(980).  PRINCESS  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Princesse). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  and  roll  close  together  around  the 
inside  strings  of  short  paste  (No.  135),  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  keeping 
them  as  long  as  possible;  begin  at  the  bottom  in  the  center  and  continue  in  spirals 
till  the  top  is  reached,  then  coat  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  chicken  quenelle  force- 
meat (No.  89),  laying  a  ball  of  white  montglas  salpicon  (No.  747)  in  the  center. 
Cover  the  top  with  a  thin  lid  of  the  paste  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  half 
an  hour;  remove  the  lid,  and  fill  the  timbales  with  a  Madeira  wine  sauce  (No. 
492);  substitute  for  the  cover  a  half  spherical  quenelle  decorated  with  truffles 

cut  fancifully;  dredged  with  chopped  pistachios,    made  of  chicken  cream  forcemeat  and  poached 

in  a  slack  oven.     Serve  on  a  napkin. 


FIG.  253. 


FIG.  254. 


Fio.  255. 


SIDK    DISHES. 


397 


FIG.  257. 


(981).  TIMBALES  A  LA  RENAISSANCE  (Timbales  a  la  Renaissance). 

Have  ready  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  chicken  and  artichoke  bottoms,  ail  cut  into  three-sixteenth 
inch  squares;  mix  them  with  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  well  reduced  with 
meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549).  Butter  the  insides  of  timbale  molds 
(No.  2,  Fig.  137),  lay  on  the  bottom  a  round  piece  of  red  beet-root  cut  very  thin,  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  cut  from  the  center  a  round  piece  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  across,  and  replace  it  by  a  very  green  cooked  pea.  Garnish  the  mold  with  a 
layer  of  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75).  both  on  the  bottom  and  sides,  and  set 
in  the  center  a  ball  of  the  prepared  salpicon,  then  finish  exactly  the  same  as  for 

FIG.  256.         No.  959.     Serve  a  Chateaubriand  sauce  (No.  446)  separately. 

(982).  RISTORI  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Burton), 

Prepare  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  mushrooms  and  artichoke  bottoms  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares,  and  mingled  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  then  put  away  to  get 
cold.  Butter  the  inside  of  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  decorate  the  bottoms 
with  a  thin  round  of  truffle,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  on  the  top 
and  bottom  of  the  sides  lay  inverted  triangles  of  tongue,  or  the  red  part  of  lobster, 
having  twenty-four  in  all,  twelve  on  the  top,  and  twelve  on  the  bottom;  and  in 
the  center  of  the  side  range  symmeti.'cally  twelve  small  rounds  of  truffle 
to  form  a  circle.  Fill  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  chicken  and  cream  forcemeat 
(No.  75),  well  mixed,  and  in  the  middle  set  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon;  finish 
with  more  forcemeat,  then  poach  and  unmold  as  explained  in  No.  959.  A  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
with  finely  chopped  truffle  sauce  (No.  551),  to  be  served  separately. 

(983).  ROTHSCHILD  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Rothschild). 

Decorate  the  bottom  of  each  buttered  timbale  mold  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  with  a  thin  round  slice 
of  truffle  measuring  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  around  the  sides  range 
six  lozenge  shaped  pieces  of  the  ti'j£2eT  each  one  divided  by  a  round  bit  of  truffle  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  across,  and  more  of  the  same  sized  and  shaped  pieces  at  both  tips 
of  the  lozenges,  making  eighteen  small  rounds  in  all.  Fill  the  bottom  and  sides 
with  a  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  lay  in  the  center  a  ball,  half  an  inch 
in  diameter,  composed  of  foies-gra*  taken  from  a  terrine  and  rubbed  through  a 
sieve;  fi'l  the  mold  with  more  forcemeat  then' poach  and  finish  the  same  as  for 
No.  959.  Serve  separately  a  puree  of  chestnuts  (No.  712),  diluted  with  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  and  cream  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce,  incorporating  into  it  at  the  last  moment, 
a  piece  of  melted  fresh  butter. 

(984).  SARTIGES  TIMBALES  (Timbales  k  la  Sartiges). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  decorate  the  center  of  the  bottom  with  a  rosette 
design  made  of  truffles,  and  around  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  sides  of  the  mold,  lay  a 
detached  row  of  round  pieces  of  truffle,  having  those  at  the  bottom  somewhat  smaller 
than  those  at  the  top.  In  the  center  on  each  side  make  a  truffle  cross-shaped  like  an 
X,  one  inch  high,  and  in  the  middle  of  it,  lay  a  small  eighth  of  an  inch  round  of 
tongue,  and  on  each  side  rings  of  tongue,  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Fill  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  a  grouse  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  set  in  the 
center  of  this  a  salpicon  composed  of  squares  of  truffle  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch,  and  mingled  with  a  well  reduced  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  fill  up  with 
more  of  the  forcemeat,  and  finish  the  same  as  the  timbales  (No.  959).  Serve  separately  an 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  game  essence  (No.  389). 

(985).  SCOTCH  TIMBALES  (Timbales  &  I'^cossaise), 

Prepare  some  very  thin  pancakes  the  same  as  for  rissolettes  (No.  956).  Butter  timbale  molds 
(No.  2,  Fig.  137)  and  line  the  inner  sides  with  these  pancakes;  prepare  a  salpicon 
with  four  ounces  of  white  chicken  meat,  the  same  quantity  of  mushrooms,  and  two 
ounces  of  rice;  combine  these  ingredients  with  a  buttered  bechamel  (No.  409) 
and  let  get  cold.  Fill  the  molds  half  full  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  the  same  quantity  of  each  well  mixed  together;  in 
the  center  lay  a  half  inch  ball  of  the  salpicon,  and  finish  filling  the  mold  with  more 
forcemeat,  poach  and  finish  the  same  as  for  No.  959.  After  they  are  unmolded,  lay 
them  in  the  oven  for  one  minute,  then  serve  separately  a  Spanish  sauce  (No.  414) 
reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392). 


FIG.  258. 


FIG.  259. 


FIG.  260. 


398 


THE    EPICUREAN 


(986).  SOUBISE  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Soubise). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  and  lay  on  the  bottom  a  round  piece  of  truffle, 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  on  the  sides  place  truffle  bands  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  wide,  by  half  an  inch  long,  having  twenty-five  of  these  pieces  for  each 
mold;  lay  them  on  in  five  lines,  one  above  the  other,  the  bottom  corner  of  one 
joining  the  opposite  top  corner  of  the  next  one;  between  these  lines  place  rounds 
of  truffles.  Fill  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  mixing  in  with  it  a 
third  of  its  quantity  of  soubise  puree  (No.  723),  cook  and  finish  the  same  as  for 
the  timbales  (No.  959).  Serve  separately  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  and 
finished  by  adding  to  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 


FIG.  261 


(987).  SOYER  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Soyer). 

Prepare  a  timbale  of  foundation  paste  the  same  as  for  Lombardy  (No.  972). 
Fill  it  with  a  garnishing  of  game  and  cream  quenelles  (No.  733),  small  mushroom 
heads,  truffles  cut  into  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  pieces,  and  sweetbreads  cut  the 
same;  mix  with  it  a  lucullus  sauce  (No.  490);  after  the  timbales  are  filled,  replace 
the  covers,  dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  hot. 


FIG.  262. 


Make 


FIG.  263. 

adding  to 


(988).  TALLEYRA.ND  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Talleyrand). 

a  salpicon  of  foies-gras  and  mushrooms,  mixed  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413), 
and  finished  with  raw  egg-yolks.  Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137), 
and  throw  indiscriminately  into  the  insides  small  sticks  of  tongue,  truffles  and 
chicken  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  wide  by  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  square; 
letting  them  assume  any  fancy  shape  into  which  they  may  fall.  Cover  the  bottom 
and  sides  with  a  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  lay  in  the  center  a  salpicon  ball  half 
an  inch  in  diameter;  cover  with  more  of  the  forcemeat  and  finish  cooking  and 
serving  the  same  as  for  No.  959.  Have  a  buttered  allemande  sauce  (No.  407), 

it  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 


(989).  VENETIAN  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Ve'nitienne). 

Make  a  salpicon  of  ducks'  livers  cut  up  into  one-eighth  of  an  inch  pieces,  cut  the  same  of  some 
truffles,  mushrooms,  and  red  beef  tongue,  and  mix  all  with  a  well  reduced  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407).  Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  lay  at  the 
bottom  a  round  slice  of  truffle,  and  from  the  center  of  it  cut  out  with  a  vegetable 
cutter,  a  piece  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  place  in  its  stead  a  round  piece  of 
tongue;  dust  over  the  sides  with  very  finely  chopped  pistachios  shaken  through  a 
sieve,  and  fill  up  the  molds  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  laying  a 
ball  of  the  salpicon  in  the  middle;  finish  as  in  No.  959.  Serve  separately  a 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  mushroom  liquor  and  some  chopped  parsley  added. 


FIG.  264. 


(990).  TIMBALES  WITH  RED  BEEF  TONGUE  (Timbales  a  1'Ecarlate). 

Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137)  and  throw  in  some  very  finely 
chopped  unsmoked  beef  tongue  to  make  it  adhere  well  to  the  bottom  and  sides, 
then  fill  with  a  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  poach  and  unmold  the  same  as 
for  No.  959.  Send  to  the  table  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  sauce  prepared  as 
follows:  Cut  some  chicken  livers  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  saute  them 
in  butter,  moisten  with  white  wine  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  strain 
through  a  tammy;  add  to  the  sauce  a  garnishing  of  truffles  cut  in  three-sixteenth 
inch  squares.  These  timbales  contain  no  salpicon. 


FIG.  265. 


(991).  FLORENTINE  TOASTS  (Roties  Florentine). 

Roll  out  a  layer  of  fancy  roll  paste  (No.  3418)  form  raised  edges  around  it,  having  it  three 
inches  wide,  by  twelve  inches  long;  besprinkle  with  oil,  and  garnish  with  anchovy  or  sardine  fillets; 
season  with  chives,  garlic,  and  chopped  onions,  and  lay  on  top  slices  of  peeled  and  pressed  tomatoes, 
also  thin  slices  of  American  cheese.  Cook  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  done  strew  over  chopped 
parsley  and  savory,  cut  them  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  wide,  having  eight  of  them  in  all,  or  if 
preferred  they  may  be  made  of  slices  of  toasted  bread  three  inches  long,  by  one  and  a  half  wide, 
instead  of  paste. 


SIDE    UIBHES.  399 

(992).  .TOAST  WITH  OIL  AND  CHEESE,  SARDINES  A  LA  SEVILLE  (Eotie  a  1'Huile  et  au 
Fromage,  aux  Sardines  et  a  la  Seville), 

Toast  some  slices  of  bread  three  inches  by  one  and  a  half;  dip  them  in  fine  olive  oil,  and 
lay  them  on  a  dish;  strew  over  some  grated  parmesan,  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  set  them  for  a 
few  seconds  into  the  oven,  giving  them  just  sufficient  time  to  melt  the  cheese,  and  serve  the 
instant  they  leave  the  oven. 

For  Sardine  Toast.  —  Instead  of  the  cheese,  pound  a  few  anchovies  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
fresh  butter  and  a  pinch  of  parsley;  with  this  butter  cover  some  slices  of  toasted  bread.  Wipe  off 
gently  with  a  cloth  the  skins  from  a  few  sardines,  lay  them  on  top  of  the  toast,  then  set  them  in 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Toast  a  la  Seville. — Chop  up  separately  some  anchovies,  parsley,  chives,  shallots  and  garlic, 
then  mix  them  together  in  a  bowi  with  oil,  spread  this  mixture  on  toasted  slices  of  bread 
three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  by  three  inches  square;  divide  these  slices  through  the  center;  lay 
some  anchovy  fillets  on  top.  Dress  the  toast  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  little  oil,  and  sprinkle  with 
mignonette;  push  them  into  the  oven  for  two  minutes,  then  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  an  orange, 
and  serve. 

(993).  VARENIKIS-POLISH  SIDE  DISH  (Varenikis-Hors-d'ffiuvre  Polonais). 
The  day  before  the  varenikis  are  needed  for  use  put  some  pot  cheese  in  a  cloth,  wrap  it  up  and 
tie  with  a  string;  lay  it  on  a  colander,  place  a  weight  on  top  and  leave  it  without  farther  press- 
ure until  the  next  day  so  that  all  the  buttermilk  drains  off.  Take  it  out  of  the  cloth,  put  it 
in  a  mortar,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg,  then  pound  well  to  have  it  a  very 
smooth  paste.  Now  add  gradually  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  then  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
marrow  frangipane  and  as  much  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132)  and  lastly  four  egg-yolks;  continue 
to  pound  and  mix  until  the  paste  is  exceedingly  smooth,  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  lay  it  in  a 
vessel  and  let  rest  in  the  ice-box.  Prepare  a  raviole  paste  (No.  147)  and  after  half  an  hour  roll  it 
very  thin  and  from  this  cut  out  some  strips;  cover  each  band  with  a  small  part  of  the  prep- 
aration the  size  and  shape  of  a  nut  and  form  them  into  small  rissoles  the  same  as  for  ordinary 
rissoles  (No.  161);  lay  each  one  as  soon  as  prepared  on  a  slightly  floured  tin  and  stand  them  in 
a  cool  place.  Ten  minutes  before  serving  throw  them  into  a  saucepanful  of  lightly  salted  boiling 
water.  As  soon  as  poached  drain  them  on  a  cloth  and  then  arrange  them  in  a  silver  dish; 
pour  a  few  spoonsfuls  of  sweet  cream  over,  serving  more  separately.  In  Russia  they  substitute 
melted  butter  for  cream  and  serve  sour  cream  apart. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


MOLLTJSKS  and  CRUSTACEANS. 


THE  QTJAHAUa  OE  LITTLE  NECK  CLAMS  (Lucines  Oranges  ou  Clovis). 


There  are  many  kinds  of  these  bivalves,  but  these  of  which  we  speak  are  greatly  appreciated  as 
an  article  of  food.     Small  ones  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter 
are  served  raw,  in  the  months  of  May,  June,  July  and  August,  entirely  replacing 
the  oyster.  Little  neck  clams  are  the  most  remarkable  of  their  kind,  their  principal 
characteristic  being  the  uniting  to  the  hinge  of  cardinal  and  lateral  teeth;  beside 
these    they  possess  three    other    teeth,   two    being    diverging.     They  are  far 
preferable  to  the  large  clams  for  all  culinary  preparations,  being  more  tender,  of          FIG.  266. 
a  finer  flavor  and  their  taste  less  strong  than  the  others. 

(994).  CLAMS,  PHILADELPHIA  STYLE  (Lucines  Oranges  a  la  Philadelphie). 

Procure  two  dozen  medium  sized  clams;  poach  them  in  their  own  juice  with  as  much  water, 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  drain  them  off.  Fry  two  finely  cut-up  shallots  in  butter 
without  letting  them  attain  color,  add  the  clams,  and  heat  them  with  a  little  sherry  and  brandy, 
seasoning  with  mignonette  and  a  very  little  salt;  just  when  prepared  to  serve  thicken  the  gravy 
with  cream,  egg-yolks  and  a  small  quantity  of  butter.  Serve  the  clams  in  a  vegetable  or  deep  dish, 
and  lay  on  top  and  around  some  small  round  three-quarters  of  an  inch  rice  croquettes. 

(995).  OLAMS  A  LA  POULETTE  (Lucines  Grangers  a  la  Poulette). 

Poach  twenty-four  clams,  suppressing  the  hard  parts,  put  them  into  a  sautoir  with  a  pint  of 
poulette  sauce  (No.  527)  and  heat  them  thoroughly;  season  with  pepper,  mignonette,  nutmeg  and 
lemon  juice,  and  thicken  the  whole  with  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  adding  chopped  parsley. 

(996).  CLAM  PANCAKES  AND  FKITTERS  (Crepes  et  Beignets  de  Lucines  Oranges). 

Break  two  whole  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  add  a  pinch  of  white  pepper;  beat  them  thoroughly  with 
a  tablespoonf ul  of  flour  and  a  tablespoonful  of  cream;  stir  briskly,  and  put  into  the  mixture  ten 
medium  sized  raw  clams  chopped  up  very  fine,  and  with  this  preparation  make  some  rather  thick 
pancakes. 

Fritters. — Place  in  a  saucepan  one  gill  of  milk,  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  some  cayenne 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  boil  the  whole  and  add  three  ounces  of  flour;  dry  the  paste,  then  remove  it 
from  the  fire,  incorporating  slowly  into  it  two  whole  eggs,  and  finish  with  four  spoonfuls  of  double 
cream;  now  add  to  the  paste  six  ounces  of  small  sized  clams,  drained  and  chopped;  mix  well 
and  then  take  up  some  of  the  preparation  with  a  spoon  held  in  the  right  hand  and  using  the  first 
finger  of  the  left  hand,  detach  it  from  the  spoon,  and  let  it  fall  into  hot  frying  fat;  when  done, 
drain  and  range  the  fritters  on  napkins. 

(997).  STUFFED  OLAMS  (Lucines  Orange~es  Farcies). 

«Fry  colorless  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped  onions  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  dredge  over  two 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  well,  then  add  the  liquor  from  ten  raw  clams,  two  ounces  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, and  one  gill  of  white  wine;  boil  up  the  whole,  skim  off  the  foam  arising  to  the  top,  and 
reduce  to  half,  seasoning  with  red  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Chop  up  the  raw  clams,  and  set  them  into 
the  prepared  sauce;  place  it  on  a  brisk  fire  and  stir  steadily,  and  when  the  clams  are  poached, 
add  some  chopped  parsley,  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and  cream.  Lay  this  preparation  aside  for 
further  use,  but  if  it  is  to  be  used  at  once,  fill  up  some  well  rounded  buttered  clam  shells,  dust  over 
with  bread-crumbs  and  lay  a  small  pat  of  butter  on  top  of  each;  place  them  on  a  baking  pan  in  the 
oven  to  heat  and  color  nicely,  then  arrange  them  crown-shaped  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  the 
center  with  very  green  parsley  branches. 


402  TII.K    KIMCURKATV. 

LONG  OR  SOFT  CLAMS  (Lucines), 


Ix)ng  or  soft  clams  resemble  somewhat  the  Venus  clam,  however,  they  have  no  exterior  tube. 
These  inolluuks  live  in  both  sand  and  mud. 

(998).  SOFT  OLAMS  FRIED,  GARNISHED  WITH  FRIED  PARSLEY  (Luoines  Papillons  Frites 

Garnies  au  Persil  Frit). 

Drain  some  medium  si/od  soft  clams;  immerse  thorn  in  milk,  drain  them  once  more,  then  roll 
thorn  in  Hour  and  fry.  After  being  rolled  in  the  Hour,  they  may  bo  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in 
broad -crumbs  and  fried  until  a  Hue  color  is  assumed;  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnishing  with  fried 
parsley. 

(999).  SOFT  OLAMS  ON  SKEWERS  OR  HATELETS  (Luoines  Papillons 

en  Broohette  ou  Hatelets). 

Klin  some  silver  skewers  through  the  soft  clams,  alternating  each 
piece  with  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  square  of  loan,  nnsmokod 
hacon;  dip  the  whole  into  melted  butter,  and  roll  them  in  broad - 
cniinii::,  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  done  dress  on  a  hot 
dish  and  cover  with  maftro-d'hotol  butler  (No.  5N1).  They  may  be  |irr|>;irc<l  cx.-ictly  the  snmo 
only  omitting  the  broad-crumbs. 

(1000)  SOFT  OLAMS  A  LA  NEWBERG  (Lucines  Papillons  a  la  Newberg), 
Warm  in  a  sautoire  two  ounces  of  butter,  add  to  it  one  dozen  very  fresh  soft  clams,  a  little  salt, 
black  and  cayenne  popper,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  moving  them  with  care  so  as  to  avoid  breaking 
them,  moisten  with  a  gill  of  Madeira  and  a  little  volout6  sauce  (No.  415),  add  two  egg-yolks  and  a 
little  cream,  also  a  little  butter.     Warm  without  boiling,  and  serve. 


GRABS  (Orabes), 


A  species  of  amphibious  crustacean,  oblong  and  wide  or  broad  according  to  its  kind;  there  is 

the  sea,  the  fresh  water,  and  the  land  crab.  Generally 
the  tail  is  bent  under  the  belly,  and  the  head  not 
separated  from  the  body.  The  body  is  covered  with  a 
hard  shell  frequently  blackish  in  color;  the  meat  is 
difficult  to  digest.  The  ordinary  crabs  that  are  used  in 
Now  York,  either  hard  or  soft  shelled  are  sea  crabs. 

(1001).  HARD  SHELL  GRABS  BAKED  ON  A  DISH 
r'°  888'  (Orabes  Durs  au  Gratin  dans  un  Plat). 

After  some  largo  crabs  have  been  cooked  in  a  court  bouillon,  as  for  No.  1002,  pick  out  .-ill  their 
ment,  keeping  it  as  whole  as  possible;  put  it  into  asautoir  with  some  allomamle  sauce  (No.  407), 
and  sliced  mushrooms,  also  chopped  parsley;  mix  well.  Butter  a  silver  dish,  besprinkle  it  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  (111  with  the  (Tab  preparation,  dredge  broad-crumbs  fried  in  butter  on  top,  and 
lay  the  dish  in  the  oven;  when  nicely  browned,  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(1002).  HARD  SHELL  GRABS,  IN  OOURT  BOUILLON  (Orabes  Durs  au  Court  Bouillon). 

Soak  the  crabs  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  cold  water  containing  a  handful  of  salt;  wash  them 
nicely.  Fry  in  butter  some  minced  carrots,  onions,  and  celery,  with  pepper-corns,  thyme,  bay 
loaf,  and  branches  of  parsley.  Moisten  with  white  wine  and  broth,  throw  in  the  crabs,  and  let  boll 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  dress  them  on  a  napkin  and  range  branches  of  p;irsloy  around;  pour  the 
top  of  the  stock  from  its  sediment,  reduce  it  with.vcloute  sauce  (No.  415),  when  ready  to  sorvf, 
Work  In  some  fine  butter,  and  servo  it  separately. 


MOLLUSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  403 

(1003).  HARD  SHELL  OEABS,  STUFFED,  CAROLINA  STYLE  (Orabes  Dura  Farois  a  la  Caroline). 

Fry  colorless  in  buller  sonic  Cindy  ehoppped  onioiiH;  sprinkle  over  a  little  rice  (lour,  fry  again 
for  a  few  minutes  and  moisten  with  milk;  season  witli  salt,  red  pepper,  nutmeg,  Ihytno,  and 
powdered  basil;  add  the  crab  moat,  and  half  of  its  quantity  of  rice  previously  boiled  in  plenty  of 
water,  ''Creole  riee"  (No.  1251);  till  some  clean  crab  shells  with  this  preparation,  until  they  are 
quite  full  and  dome-shaped;  dredge  over  with  bread  -crumbs,  besprinkle  with  butter  and  brown  in 
a  hot  oven,  or  the  preparation  may  be  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  rolled  in  bread-crumbs  and  fried  in 
hot  fat. 

(1004).  HARD  SHELL  GRABS,  STUFFED  WITH  MUSHROOMS  AND  DEVILED  (Orabes  Dura  Faroia 

auz  Ohampignous  et  a  la  Diable). 

To  obtain  one  pound  of  crab  meat  it  is  necessary  to  have  twenty  crabs;  soak  them  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  in  water  with  a  handful  of  saltadded,  wash  them  and  boil  for  11  f teen  minutes;  let  got 
cold  and  remove  the  shells  which  are  to  be  well  washed  and  dried.  Take  oil'  all  the  small  logs 
and  the  lungs;  wash  the  crabs  singly,  and  pick  out  all  the  meat  obtainable;  chop  up  either  two 
onions  or  one  ounce  of  shallot  for  every  pound  of  crab  meat;  fry  them  colorless  in  butter;  add  a 
quart  of  bechamel  (No.  <1<)1»)  reduced  with  cream,  the  crab  meat,  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg;  do 
not  have  the  preparation  loo  soft,  and  with  it  1111  the  shells  dome-shaped,  about  four  ounces  in  (inch; 
dip  them  entirely  into  bread-crumbs,  sprinkle  over  melted  butter,  and  lay  them  on  tin  rings  to 
avoid  the  crabs  touching  the  bottom  of  the  pan;  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  and  dress  on  napkins  with 
parsley  around. 

With  Mushrooms.— Prepare  the  crabs  as  the  above.  Fry  a  little  shallot  in  butter,  mix  in  as 
much  flour  as  the  butter  can  absorb  and  cook  to  obtain  a  light  roux;  moisten  this  with  half  cream 
and  half  milk,  seasoning  properly,  then  add  the  crab  meat  and  half  the  same  quantity  of  mush- 
rooms  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  s<|ii:nvs;  boil  up  once;  sd  i!  in  ;i.  vessel  ami  u.^e 
this  preparation  for  Ht lifting  the  crabs;  finish  and  serve  the  same  sauce  as  with  the  other  crabs. 
This  croam  sauce  can  be  replaced  by  reduced  volouto1  (No.  415)  and  thickened  whilh  egg-yolks  and 
cream. 

Deviled  and  Htnffi'd. — The  crabs  are  to  bo  prepared  as  above;.  Hoforo  sprinkling  with 
crumbs,  cover  the  top  of  the  crab  preparation  with  mustard;  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
sprinkle  butter  on  top;  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  and  dress  on  napkins,  garnishing  with  green  parsley. 

(1005).  OYSTER  GRABS  FRIED  A  LA  NEWBERO  OR  A  LA  SALAMANDER  (Orabea  d'Huitrua 

Frits  a  la  Newber*  et  a  la  Salamandro). 

Oyster  crabs  are  generally  found  in  great  quantities  the  Virginia  oysters. 

Fried. — Drain  and  dip  the  crabs  in  milk,  roll  them  in  cracker-dust,  and  toss  them  in  a  coarse 
aiove  to  remove  the  surplus  cracker,  then  fry  them  in  very  hot,  fresh  lard.  Mutter  some  channeled 
oval  tartlet  molds  three  and  seven-eighths  inches  by  two  and  three-eighths  inches  wide,  line  them 
with  a  very  thin  pun"  paste  made  from  parings,  and  fill  up  the  insides  with  flue  sheets  of  butterod 
paper  and  rice;  cook  them  in  a  hot  oven,  empty  them  well  of  the  paper  and  rice,  and  finish  by 
filling  them  with  as  many  of  the  fried  crabs  as  they  will  hold,  dress  them  on  folded  napkins  and 
serve  them  while  still  very  hot.  The  scarcity  of  these  crabs  bring  their  price  as  high  as  two 
dollars  and  a  half  a  pound. 

Oyster  Crabs  a  la  Newber  f/.—  Put  some  oyster  crabs  in  a  sautoiro  with  a  little  butter,  salt,  and 
;ed  pepper;  loss  them  vvdl  and  moisten  witli  a  lilllc  cream;  remove  from  (lie  lire  al.  the  lirsi, 
boil,  thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in  cream,  pour  over  a  little  good  Madeira  wine  and 
««rve. 

A  la  /Salamander.—  Wash  some  medium  sized  prettily  shaped  deep  oyster  shells;  sot  them  on 
a  very  straight  baking  sheet.  Drain  very  fresh  oyster  crabs,  season  thorn  with  salt,  black  and  red 
pepper,  and  fill  the  shells  full  of  these;  strow  over  broad-crumbs,  and  grated  parrnosan  choose, 
Besprinkle  with  butter,  and  brown  in  a  quick  ovon,  servo  the  shells  as  soon  as  they  are  done.  (These 
crabs  should  bo  put  in  the  shells  without  any  sauce.) 

1006).  SOFT   SHELL  GRABS,  BROILED,  RAVIGOTE   BUTTER,  FRIED,  SAUTED  IN  BUTTER 

(Orabes  Moux  Grille's,  Beurre  Ravigote,  Frits,  Saut6s  au  Beurre), 

Wash  the  crabs,  being  careful  to  pick  off  all  the  seaweed,  and  pull  out  the  lungs;  wipe  dry. 
l-ay  them  on  a  double  broiler,  salt  over  and  baste  with  butter,  broil  thorn  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when 
uorie,  dross  on  a  hot  dish  and  cover  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583). 


404  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Fried.  —Wash  the  crabs,  remove  the  lungs  from  both  sides  and  dip  into  milk,  then  roll  in  flour 
and  fry  in  plenty  of  very  hot  frying  fat.  When  of  a  fine  color,  drain  and  dress  on  a  folded  nap- 
kin, and  on  top  arrange  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 

Sauted  in  Butter.  —After  the  crabs  have  been  well  washed,  remove  the  lungs  from  each  side, 
roll  them  in  flour,  and  saute  them  in  very  hot  purified  butter  (No.  16);  when  done  and  of  a  fine 
color,  dress  and  to  the  butter  in  which  they  were  cooked,  add  some  lemon  juice;  strain  this  butter 
through  a  strainer  over  the  crabs,  and  strew  chopped  parsley  on  them. 


CRAWFISH  OR  CRAYFISH  (Ecrevisses), 


This  crustacean  has  the  head  and  the  corselet  blended  in  one  single  piece,  having  attached  five 
pairs  of  feet;  the  tail  is  more  or  less  apparent.  Crawfish  are  aquatic 
and  turn  red  when  cooked.  Persons  suffering  from  a  weak  stomach 
should  avoid  partaking  of  them,  as  they  are  very  indigestible,  but  they 
are  delicious  for  those  who  are  able  to  indulge  in  them.  They  are  useful 
for  decorating  cold  dishes  and  entrees,  and  are  used  by  themselves  in  the 
form  of  pyramids. 

(1007).  OEAWPISH  A  LA  BATELIERE  (Ecrevisses  &  la  Bateliere). 

Procure  three  dozen  live  crawfish,  wash  them  thoroughly,  place  them 
in  a  net,  and  plunge  them  for  two  minutes  into  plenty  of  boiling  water  in 
order  to  kill  them,  then  remove  and  break  off  the  small  legs.  Fry  three 
very  finely  chopped  shallots  in  butter  with  six  ounces  of  minced  mush- 
rooms, thyme  and  bay  leaf,  add  the  crawfish  and  moisten  with  white  wine; 
let  cook  for  ten  minutes,  suppress  the  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  season  with  salt 

and  red  pepper,  and  just  when  prepared  to  serve  add  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  and  some 
chopped  parsley. 

(1008).  ORAWPJSH  A  LA  BORDELAISE  (Ecrevisses  k  la  Bordelaise). 

Choose  live  crawfish;  set  them  inside  a  net,  wash  them  well,  and  plunge  them  rapidly  into 
boiling  water,  leaving  them  in  only  sufficiently  long  to  kill,  then  drain  and  pick  off  the  small  legs. 
Fry  a  mirepoix  of  roots  and  minced  onions  in  oil,  moisten  with  white  wine,  season,  and  add 
aromatic  herbs,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brandy;  let  the  whole  boil  for  several 
minutes,  then  throw  in  the  crawfish  and  cook  them  from  ten  to  fourteen  minutes  according  to  their 
size,  while  tossing  steadily.  Take  them  off  the  fire,  strain  the  broth  through  a  sieve,  leaving 
the  crawfish  in  the  saucepan.  Cut  in  small  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares  or  in  Julienne,  some 
red  part  of  carrots,  and  tender  celery  roots,  parboil  both  in  salted  water,  and  then  drain,  fry  with- 
out coloring  in  some  butter,  onions,  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  add  to  it  the  roots, 
and  fry  together  for  a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  broth  and  the 
crawfish  stock;  let  the  liquid  fall  twice  to  a  glaze  so  that  the  vegetables  are  well  cooked,  and  moisten 
again  with  the  stock  of  the  crawfish  reduced  to  a  half-glaze.  Cook  together  for  five  or  six 
minutes,  then  thicken  with  small  pieces  of  butter  kneaded  with  flour,  adding  also  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper;  remove  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire 
in  order  to  add  butter  to  it.  Dress  the  crawfish  on  a  deep  dish  with  a  little  of  their  own  broth,  and 
serve  the  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1009).  CRAWFISH  AU  COURT  BOUILLON  AND   MARINIERE  (Ecrevisses  au  Court  Bouillon  et 

k  la  Mariniere). 

To  prepare  the  court  bouillon,  mince  up  two  ounces  of  onions,  two  ounces  of  celery  root  and 
two  ounces  of  carrots,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf, 
also  one  pint  of  water,  some  salt  and  a  pint  of  white  wine;  let  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Put  three 
dozen  live  crawfish  into  a  net,  plunge  this  into  boiling  water  and  leave  it  until  the  shells  turn  red, 
then  take  it  out,  and  break  off  the  small  legs,  and  finish  cooking  the  fish  in  the  court  bouillon  fot 


MOILLTJSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  405 

about  ten  minutes,  tossing  them  well  in  the  meanwhile;  remove  them  with  a  skimmer  and  dress 
them.  Strain  the  broth  or  court  bouillon,  reduce  it  to  half,  add  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  and  pour 
it  over  the  crawfish. 

Mariniere. — After  the  three  dozen  crawfish  have  been  cooked  in  the  court  bouillon,  dress  them 
in  a  silver  tureen;  strain  the  court  bouillon,  reduce  it  to  half  with  a  little  brandy  and  thicken  it 
with  kneaded  butter  and  bread-crumbs,  season  with  salt  and  a  dash  of  cayenne,  and  incorporate 
into  it  a  little  piece  of  fresh  butter;  pour  this  over  the  crawfish,  toss  them  well,  and  strew  over 
some  chopped  parsley. 

(1010).  OKAWFISH,  MAISON  FOB  (Ecrevisses  Maison  d'Or). 

After  three  dozen  crawfish  have  been  cooked  in  the  court-bouillon  (No.  1009),  dress  them  in  a 
silver  tureen.  Fry  in  butter  some  pieces  of  raw  lean  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares,  moisten 
with  the  court  bouillon  and  the  same  quantity  of  champagne,  adding  fish-glaze  (No.  399);  reduce 
and  incorporate  in  a  little  fresh  butter;  pour  this  over  the  crawfish,  and  strew  over  a  little 
chopped  parsley. 

(1011).  OEAWFISH  WITH  BUTTEE  (Ecrevisses  au  Beurre). 

Select  four  or  five  dozen  large,  live,  and  well  cleaned  crawfish;  put  them  inside  a  net  and 
plunge  this  into  .a  large  vessel  containing  boiling  water,  in  order  to  kill  the  crawfish  at  once. 
Drain  them  well,  then  break  off  all  their  small  legs;  melt  some  butter,  having  a  sufficiency  of  it, 
according  to  the  quantity  of  crawfish;  pour  off  the  top  of  it  only  into  a  saucepan,  and  cook  it  vn- 
til  it  becomes  nut  brown,  then  add  to  it  the  crawfish,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  aromatic  herbs,  some 
cut  up  onions  and  pepper  corns;  let  cook  while  tossing  for  ten  minutes,  drain  and  put  them  back 
in  the  saucepan  besprinkle  with  a  handful  of  white  and  fresh  bread-crumbs;  pour  over  two  or 
three  gills  of  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  fire  to  let  the  crawfish 
cook  for  a  few  moments  longer,  but  without  ceasing  to  toss.  Take  them  from  the  fire,  trim  them 
and  add  to  the  sauce  some  sherry  and  small  bits  of  butter  for  the  purpose  of  thickening  it. 
Dress  the  crawfish  on  a  deep  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1012).  OBAWFISH  WITH  OEEAM  (Ecrevisses  a  la  Oreme). 

After  having  prepared  and  washed  three  dozen  crawfish  as  No.  1007,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  good  sized  piece  of  very  fresh  butter,  a  bunch  of  chives  and  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme,  bay  leaf  and  basil,  a  minced  onion,  two  cloves,  mushroom  parings,  a  little  salt  and  pepper; 
moisten  with  a  small  ladleful  of  vegetable  stock  (No.  195),  and  set  the  covered  saucepan  on  a  very 
hot  fire  for  ten  minutes,  tossing  the  contents  frequently;  after  this  is  done,  take  them  from  the 
fire  and  drain  in  a  colander.  Break  off  all  the  small  tegs  and  the  shell  from  the  tails,  then  lay 
the  crawfish  in  a  saucepan  with  their  own  strained  stock,  to  keep  hot  without  boiling.  Just  when 
ready  to  serve,  drain,  and  set  them  into  a  silver  tureen,  one  on  top  of  the  other,  the  tails  inward, 
and  the  heads  reclining  against  the  sides  of  the  tureen,  and  cover  over  with  a  lean  unctuous 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  the  broth  in  which  the  crawfish  were  cooked. 


EDIBLE  SNAILS  (Escargots), 


A  Veiled  snail.     The  snails  intended  for  eating  are  those  that  feed  on  aromatic  plants.     They 
are  nourishing,  but  difficult  to  digest,  are  unsuitable  for  weak  stomachs,  and  always  require 
to  be  well  seasoned.     Broths  are  made  from  snails  and  are  found  to  be 
very  soothing  for  any  irritability  of  the  stomach. 


(1013).  EDIBLE  SNAILS,  TO  PBEPAEE  (Escargots,  Preparation). 

Should  the  snails  be  taken  from  grape  vines,   either  in  the  spring 
time  or  autumn,  they  must  be  put  into  a  cage,  and  starved  for  eight  days.  FIG.  arc. 

If  they  be  purchased  in  the  winter  in  the  markets,  they  are  then  closed 
and  ready  to  cook;   in  the  latter  case,  wash  them  well  in  tepid  water  to  break  the  openings 
and  remove  the  glue,   then  put  them  into  a  vessel  with  fresh  water  and  salt,  and  let  them 


406  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

disgorge  for  twelve  hours  (the  vessel  to  be  covered  with  a  grater  to  prevent  the  snails  escaping); 
afterward  wash  them  again  in  several  waters.  Put  the  snails  into  a  stock  pot  with  water  and  a 
pinch  of  potash;  cook  until  the  meats  can  be  removed  from  the  shells — half  an  hour  will  suffice 
for  this,  then  drain  and  pick  them  out  of  the  shells.  Wash  the  meats  in  several  waters,  suppressing 
the  green  vein  found  in  the  thinnest  part  of  the  snail,  then  range  them  in  a  small  earthen  pot  lined 
with  fat  pork;  add  an  onion,  a  bunch  of  aromatic  herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brandy, 
and  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  broth  and  white  wine;  close  the  pot,  fasten  the  cover  down  with 
paste,  and  let  cook  over  a  slow  fire  or  gas  stove  for  six  hours.  When  the  snails  are  well  done 
remove,  and  let  them  cool  off  in  their  own  broth.  Wash  well  the  shells  and  let  them  dry  before 
using. 

(1014).  EDIBLE  SNAILS,  BOBDELAISE  AND  SAINTONGE  (Escargots  a  la  Bordelaise  et  a  la  Sain- 

tonge). 

Bordelaise. — Cook  the  snails  as  explained  in  No.  1013;  fry  in  butter  some  onions,  carrots  and 
celery  root;  cut  in  three-eights  of  an  inch  squares,  sprinkle  over  some  flour,  and  moisten  with 
white  wine  and  fish  stock  (No.  195),  add  the  cooked  snails  without  the  shells,  and  when  hot, 
thicken  with  kneaded  butter  and  finish  with  fine  herbs  and  lemon  juice. 

A  la  Saintonge. — (Small  snails.)  After  they  are  cooked  as  above,  put  them  back  into  their 
shells,  and  fry  them  in  butter,  shells  and  all,  adding  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  salt 
and  pepper;  moisten  with  white  wine,  thicken  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  bread-crumbs, 
butter  and  parsley. 

(1015).  EDIBLE  SNAILS  A  LA  BOUKGUIGNONNE  (Escargots  a  la  Bourguignonne). 

After  the  snails  have  been  prepared  according  to  No.  1013  put  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404) 
into  each  shell,  then  one  or  two  snails  from  which  suppress  the  thin  and  pointed  end;  close  the 
opening  with  a  thick  layer  of  fresh  butter,  mixing  in  with  it  salt,  black  pepper,  parsl  ey  and  chives 
both  chopped,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  fresh  bread-crumbs.  Arrange  the  shells  on  a  metal  dish 
provided  with  a  grater  for  the  purpose  of  upholding  the  snails,  let  cook  for  a  few  moments  and 
serve  them  very  hot  accompanied  with  a  silver  skewer  to  remove  the  snail  from  its  shell.  Metal 
or  earthen  dishes  are  expressly  made  having  the  bottom  indented  to  receive  the  snails. 

(1016).  EDIBLE  SNAILS,  PBOVENQAL,  AND  WITH  PKOVENQAL  BUTTEE  (Escargots  a  la 

Provenpale  et  au  Beurre  de  Provence). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  snails  as  for  No.  1013,  fry  in  oil  without  browning,  some  shallots, 
mushrooms,  garlic,  and  parsley,  all  to  be  finely  chopped  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg,  add  a  little  flour,  stir  well  and  moisten  with  white  wine  and  fish  stock  (No.  195),  reduce 
thoroughly  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce.  Fill  the  shells  by  putting  into  each  one,  one  or  two  snails 
according  to  their  size,  finish  filling  with  the  sauce,  and  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  besprinkle  with 
butter,  and  heat  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

With  Provencal  Butter. — Cook  and  prepare  the  snails  as  for  No.  1013,  set  at  the  bottom  of 
each  shell  a  little  of  the  following  butter:  Stir  into  some  butter  finely  chopped  parsley,  onions,  and 
crushed  garlic,  and  finely  cut  up  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  season  with  salt,  black  and  red  pepper,  pound 
and  press  through  a  sieve.  Set  the  snails  on  this  butter  and  finish  filling  the  shells  with  the 
same  and  some  fresh  bread-crumbs,  range  them  on  a  dish,  and  place  them  in  the  hot  oven;  serve 
when  the  butter  boils  in.  the  shell.  Accompany  these  snails  with  a  small  silver  pick  to  remove 
the  insides. 


MOLLTJSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  407 

FEOGS  (arenouilles), 


A  small  quadruped  of  the  Rana  family,  having  a  smooth  skin,  flat  head,  large  mouth,  and 
bulging  eyes;  it  lives  in  the  water.     The  under  part  of  the  stomach  is  white,  dotted  with  brown. 
Frogs'  meat  contains  a  gelatinous  principle,  more  fluid  and  less  nour- 
ishing than  any  other  animal;  it  is  considered  quite  a  delicacy,  and  is 
healthy  and  agreeable  to  the  taste.     Refreshing  broths  are  made  with 
frogs'  legs,  analogous  to  those  composed  of  chicken  or  veal. 


(1017).  FROGS'  LEGS  A  LA  D'ANTIN  (Cuisses  de  Grenouilles  a  la 

d'Antin). 

Have  a  pound  of  very  fresh  frogs'  legs,  season  them  with  salt,  FlG-  729- 

pepper  and  nutmeg,  then   fry  them  in  butter  with  a  teaspoonful  of 

finely  chopped  onions;  add  some  chives,  minced  mushrooms,  capers,  and  chopped  truffles;  moisten 
with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  reduce  till  dry,  then  pour  in  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
dress  and  dredge  over  chopped  parsley,  chervil,  and  a  few  tarragon  leaves. 

(1018).  PROGS'  LEGS  A  LA  OSBORN  (Cuisses  de  Grenouilles  a  la  Osborn). 
Cut  a  pound  of  thighs  in  two  to  divide  them,  then  each  leg  in  two  at  the  joint;  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them  in  some  butter  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  up  onions,  a  finely 
shred  green  pepper,  two  peeled  tomatoes  cut  into  eight  pieces,  four  ounces  of  finely  minced  mush- 
rooms and  one  gill  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  cover  and  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  dress  the  frogs'  legs,  reduce  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over,  sprinkling  the  top  plentifully 
with  chopped  parsley,  then  serve. 

(1019).  FROGS'  LEGS  A  LA  POULETTE  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Ouisses  de  Grenouilles  a  la 

Poulette  aux  Champignons). 

Cut  the  frogs'  thighs  in  two  to  divide  them,  and  the  legs  at  the  joint;  should  they  be  small,  leave 
the  legs  whole  only  suppressing  the  feet,  having  one  pound  in  all  after  they  are  trimmed.  Fry 
them  in  butter  with  six  ounces  of  fresh,  minced  mushrooms,  add  half  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415),  and  let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  thicken  the  sauce  with  three  raw  egg- yolks  diluted 
in  half  a  gill  of  cream;  season  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1020).  FROGS'  LEGS  DEVILED  (Ouisses  de  Grenouilles  a  la  Diable.) 

Have  one  pound  of  well-pared  frogs'  legs;  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon 
juice  and  mustard,  and  immerse  them  in  melted  butter,  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and 
range  them  on  a  double  broiler;  besprinkle  with  butter,  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire,  then  dress  them 
on, a  deviled  sauce  (No.  459). 

(1021).  FROGS'  LEGS  FRIED  A  LA  ORLY  (Ouisses  de  Grenouilles  Frites  a  la  Orly). 

Divide  medium-sized  frogs  legs  by  cutting  them  apart  at  each  joint;  put  them  into  a  vessel 
with  minced  onions,  branches  of  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice  and  sweet  oil;  let  them 
marinate  for  two  hours,  then  roll  them  in  flour  and  fry  till  a  good  color;  drain,  and  besprinkle 
with  salt;  dress  them  on  folded  napkins  with  fried  parsley  on  top.  Serve  in  a  separate  sauce- 
boat  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(1022).  FROGS'  LEGS  FRIED  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE  (Ouisses  de  Grenouilles  Frites  Sauce  Oreme). 
Should  the  frogs'  legs  be  large,  cut  them  in  two  by  separating  them  at  each  joint;  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  wet  them  over  with  a  little  milk,  roll  them  in  flour  and  fry  them  till  a  good 
color.  First  take  out  the  small  pieces,  then  the  larger  ones,  and  dress  them  on  a  napkin  with  a 
bunch  of  parsley  on  top;  serve  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1023).  FROGS'  LEGS  ROYER  (Cuisses  de  Grenouilles  a  la  Royer). 

Fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  pound  of  trimmed  frogs'  legs  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onions  added;  when  done,  cover  them  with  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  half  as  much  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549);  reduce  and  season  to  taste.  Broil  some  slices  of  bacon,  cut  them  up  into  squares; 
dress  the  frogs'  legs,  dredge  over  with  chopped  parsley  and  surround  with  the  pieces  of  bacon  to 
form  a  border. 


408 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


LOBSTEK  (Honiara), 


A  large  sea  crawfish,  the  cuirass  being  strewn  with  blue  spots  more  or  less  big  on  a  reddish 
foundation  which  covers  a  white  tis- 
sue. This  crustacean  is  not  very 
fleshy,  feeds  but  little  and  is  very 
difficult  to  digest;  when  cooked  it 
turns  red.  Its  claws  and  tails  are  the 
only  meaty  parts  and  are  excellent 
for  food. 

Spiny  Lobster  (Langotiste),  Pali- 
nurus  Locusta. — The  spiny  lobster  has 
two  large  horns  in  front  of  its  eyes, 
two  others  underneath  and  it  is  with 
these  it  catches  and  draws  toward  it 
the  fish  on  which  it  feeds.  Its  back 
is  covered  with  prickles  and  very 
rough.  During  the  winter  this  crus- 
tacean lives  in  the  deep  ocean  and  is 
very  common  in  the  Mediterranean 
sea.  Its  meat  can  only  be  digested 
by  robust  stomachs  and  it  always  re- 
quires to  be  highly  seasoned.  FIG.  273. 


(1024).  LOBSTER  OE  SPINY  LOBSTER,  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Homard  ou  Langouste  a 

rAme'ricaine). 

Cook  in  a  court  bouillon  some  medium  sized  lobsters,  proceeding  exactly  as  described  in  craw- 
fish au  court  bouillon  (No.  1009);  drain  and  then  split  them  lengthwise  in  two.  Cover  with  sweet 
oil  in  a  sautoire,  some  onions  and  shallots  both  finely  minced,  also  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  lay  the 
lobsters  over,  the  cut  side  on  top,  heat  for  a  few  minutes,  season,  and  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the 
sautoire,  two  gills  of  white  wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  court  bouillon  stock;  cover  closely  and 
boil  over  a  good  fire  for  twelve  minutes,  then  keep  it  warm  without  boiling  for  ten  minutes  longer. 
Drain,  strain  off  the  liquid,  put  it  back  to  reduce  to  a  half -glaze,  then  thicken  it  with  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549),  mingling  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  When  the  sauce  is  finished,  take  it  from 
the  fire  and  butter  it  with  fresh  butter,  adding  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a  gill  of  burned 
brandy;  dress  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole. 


(1025).  SMALL  LOBSTERS  A  LA  BORDELAISE  (Petits  Bernards  k  la  Bordelaise), 

Take  four  small  lobsters  weighing  one  pound  each  and  kill  them  in  boiling  water,  drain,  and 
break  off  the  large  claws,  put  them  together  in  a  narrow  saucepan,  and  moisten  to  three  quarters  of 
their  height  with  a  court  bouillon  made  with  white  wine  (No.  39);  let  cook  for  twelve  minutes,  then 
set  aside,  and  leave  them  for  ten  minutes  longer  in  their  stock.  Cut  up  into  three-sixteenth  of  an 
inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
celery  root;  parboil  them  separately  and  finish  cooking  them  in  broth  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
letting,  the  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  until  they  are  done,  then  add  some  tomatoes  cut  up  in  dice;  keep 
this  on  one  side.  Drain  the  lobsters,  split  them  each  in  two  lengthwise,  and  detach  the  half  tails 
from  the  bodies;  suppress  the  claw  shells  and  return  the  tails  to  their  shells,  also  the  bodies;  place 
again  in  the  saucepan,  cover  and  keep  warm.  Strain  their  broth  and  free  it  of  fat,  let  it  reduce  to 
a  half-glaze,  and  thicken  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and 
a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549).  Finish  with  two  spoonfuls  of  burnt  brandy,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne; 
take  it  from  the  fire  to  stir  in  some  butter  and  the  vegetable  stock;  range  in  vegetable  dishes  the 
half  bodies,  and  half  tails  in  their  shells,  set  the  shelless  claws  on  top,  and  cover  over  with  a  part 
of  the  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 


MOLLUSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  409 

(1026).  LOBSTEK  A  LA  BONNEFOY  (Homard  a  la  Bonnefoy). 

Chop  up  two  ounces  of  onions  and  two  shallots,  fry  them  in  oil  without  letting  attain  a  color, 
and  add  to  them  two  live  lobsters'  tails  cut  in  pieces  across  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  with  their 
shells.  Saute  them  for  a  few  moments  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  garnished  with  thyme,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  moisten  with  a  pint  of  white  or  red  wine;  cover 
the  sautoire,  and  cook  the  lobsters  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  off  the  pieces,  dress  them  in  a  pyra- 
midal form  on  a  dish,  and  add  to  the  broth  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  and 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Pound  the  creamy  parts  picked  from  the  bodies  with  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  press  it  through  a  sieve,  and  stir  it  into  the  sauce  with  some  minced  mushrooms;  pour  this 
over  the  lobsters,  and  finish  by  sprinkling  the  surface  with  chopped  parsley;  add  a  little  finely 
shredded  tarragon  leaves. 

(1027).  LOBSTEE  A  LA  BRITANNIA  (Homard  a  la  Britannia). 

Boil  two  lobsters  of  two  pounds  each  in  boiling  water  with  some  cut  up  carrots  and  onions, 
parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  vinegar;  cook  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  then  let  the  stock  settle, 
and  pour  off  the  top  steadily  from  the  sediment;  divide  the  bodies  from  the  tails,  take  out  the 
meat  from  the  latter,  also  from  the  claws,  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  little  of  the  stock;  take  also  the 
creamy  parts  from  the  bodies  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Reduce  a  pint  of  mushroom  broth 
or  essence  (No.  392)  with  half  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  half  a  gill  of  meat  glaze  (No. 
402),  also  one  gill  of  Madeira  wine;  thicken  it  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  and  season 
with  salt,  red  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  add  half  a  pound  of  mushroom  heads,  and  half  a  pound  of  small 
artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  four.  Escalop  the  lobster  tails,  dress  them  in  a  crown  shape,  and  place 
the  rest  of  the  meats  in  the  center,  on  top  lay  the  mushrooms  and  artichoke  bottoms,  then  finish 
the  sauce  by  thickening  with  egg-yolks,  butter,  and  cream,  add  some  lemon  juice,  and  chopped 
parsley,  also  the  creamy  parts  from  the  bodies;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  lobster,  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1028),  LOBSTEE  A  LA  OAMILLE  (Homard  a  la  Oamille). 

Heat  in  a  sautoir  some  good  sweet  oil,  and  throw  into  it  live  lobsters,  each  one  cut  across 
into  twelve  pieces;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  cayenne  pepper;  toss 
them  over  a  brisk  fire  for  twelve  minutes,  then  add  three  medium  fresh  tomatoes,  peeled,  seeded 
and  cut  in  dice,  a  few  parsley  leaves  and  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic;  let  reduce  for  ten  min- 
utes, then  pour  in  a  gill  of  brandy,  set  it  on  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  extinguished  pour  in  two  gills 
of  white  wine,  reduce  to  half,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and 
lemon  juice. 

(1029).  LOBSTEE  A  LA  OEEOLE  (Homard  a  la  Creole), 

Take  two  medium  lobsters  each  one  weighing  about  two  pounds;  cut  them  up  into  twelve 
pieces  and  saute  them  over  a  quick  fire  with  half  as  much  butter  as  oil;  add  two  ounces  of  onions 
and  one  ounce  of  chopped  shallot,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  then  moisten  with 
four  gills  of  consomme  (No.  189),  and  one  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  add  four  medium,  peeled,  pressed 
and  halved  tomatoes,  one  green  pepper,  cut  into  small  bits,  and  a  little  curry.  Let  this  simmer  for  fif- 
teen minutes,  add  fine  herbs  and  serve.  Boil  some  rice  in  water  with  salt  and  butter,  drain,  set  it 
into  a  buttered  mold,  and  leave  it  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  then  unmold  and  serve  the  rice 
separately  but  at  the  same  time  as  the  lobsters. 

(1030).  DEVILED,  EOASTED  LOBSTEE  (Homard  Eoti  a  la  Diable). 

Kill  the  lobster  in  hot  water;  split  in  two  lengthwise,  and  range  it  on  a  baking-  pan;  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  pour  over  some  melted  butter.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty 
minutes,  cover  over  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  containing  plenty  of  diluted  mustard.  Serve  on  a 
very  hot  dish,  break  the  shells  with  pincers  made  for  this  purpose,  remove  the  meat  and  serve 
them  directly  on  the  plates. 

(1031).  LOBSTEE  A  LA  DUGLEEE  (Homard  a  la  Duglere). 

Cut  live  lobsters  into  pieces,  heat  some  butter  in  a  sautoir,  and  when  hot  range  the  pieces  of 
lobster  one  beside  the  other;  fry  them  over  a  quick  fire,  then  moisten  with  brandy,  set  it  on  fire, 
add  Madeira  and  white  wine,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper;  add  to  it 
some  peeled,  pressed  and  cut  up  tomatoes,  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic,  and  a  good,  cooked  mirepoix 
(No.  419).  As  soon  as  the  lobsters  are  done,  lay  them  in  a  dish,  reduce  the  sauce  with  veloute  (No. 
415),  and  incorporate  into  it  just  when  ready  to  serve,  some  butter  and  lemon  juice;  pour  this 
over  the  lobster,  and  dredge  the  surface  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  chervil  and  chives. 


410  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1032)  LOBSTER  A  LA  ERESNE  (Homard  a  la  Tresne), 

Take  two  lobsters  each  weighing  two  and  a  half  pounds,  and  cook  them  by  steam  for  one-hali 
hour.  Detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies;  take  the  meats  out  of  the  former  whole,  and  set  it  asid* 
to  get  cool,  and  from  them  obtain  one  pound  to  cut  up  into  slices;  put  these  into  a  vessel  witb 
half  as  much  mushrooms,  and  half  as  much  truffles  as  mushrooms,  moisten  the  whole  with  a  pint 
of  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  cream  and  thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  butter,  not 
having  too  much,  only  just  sufficient  to  envelop  the  garnishing;  dress  the  lobsters,  arranging 
them  dome-shape,  smooth  the  surface  nicely,  and  decorate  with  large  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles; 
garnish  around  with  some  cream  quenelles  (No.  76)  without  decorations. 

(1033).  LOBSTER  A  LA  GAMBETTA  (Homard  a  la  Gambetta). 

Out  about  four  pounds  of  raw  lobster  tails  into  transversal  pieces  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick.  Fry  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  leeks,  the  same  quantity  of  onions,  the  same 
of  carrots,  and  the  same  of  celery,  a  branch  of  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  add  the  remaining 
part  of  the  lobsters  and  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine  and  a  quart  of  fish  stock  (No. 
195);  let  a;l  cook  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  the  stock  through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  some  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  and  reduce  all  together,  pass  through  a  tammy  into  a  saucepan  previously  rubbed 
with  a  little  garlic.  Saute  the  slices  of  lobster  tails  in  some  clarified  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  shallots,  salt  and  red  pepper,  then  moisten  with  white  wine;  reduce  quickly  and 
pour  in  the  reduced  veloute,  and  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks, 
butter  and  cream;  dress  the  whole  into  a  dish  and  garnish  around  with  croutons  fried  in  oil  and 
croquettes  of  rice  cooked  and  seasoned  with  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567),  salt,  saffron  and  cayenne 
pepper;  when  cold  make  this  into  small  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  size,  dip  them  in 
eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color.  On  top  lay  some  trussed  crawfish. 

(1034).  LOBSTER  A  LA  HERVEY  (Homard   a  la  Hervey). 

Prepare  a  court  bouillon  (No.  38),  arid  in  it  cook  two  lobsters  each  of  two  pounds;  drain  them 
for  a  few  minutes;  detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies,  and  keep  them  warm  in  a  little  of  their  broth. 
Cut  some  peeled  truffles  into  thin  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  three-quarters  to  one  inch  in 
diameter;  set  them  in  a  bain-marie  with  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira  wine.  Slice  the 
lobsters'  tails  and  claw  meat,  and  fry  the  pieces  in  butter;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  cream,  reduce  and 
season  highly,  then  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter.  Dress  and  garnish  the  dish  with 
round  apple  croquettes  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  cover  the  entire  top  with  the  prepared  truffles. 

(1035).  LOBSTER  A  LA  LAWRENCE  AND  MARYLAND  (Homard  a  la  Lawrence  et  a  la  Maryland). 

Cut  into  twenty-four  pieces  the  tail  parts  of  four  cooked  lobsters;  season  them  with  salt  and 
mignonette.  Heat  well  in  a  sautoire  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  two  gills  of  oil,  add  to  it  the  pieces 
of  lobster,  and  saute  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  adding  four  ounces  of  onions,  and  two  small  bunches 
of  parsley  garnished  with  garlic,  cloves,  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  red  wine, 
and  two  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  put  in  some  chopped  mushrooms,  and  the  pulp  of  one 
lemon;  suppress  the  parsley  and  bay  leaf,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  dish  with  finely  shred  chives 
strewn  over  the  top. 

Maryland  Style. — Cut  cooked  lobsters  in  slices  one-quarter  inch  in  thickness,  saute  in  fresh 
butter,  moisten  with  cream,  let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  before  serving,  thicken  the  lobster 
with  cooked  yolks  of  eggs,  crushed  with  double  the  amount  of  butter,  then  press  through  a  fine 
sieve,  seasoning  with  red  and  white  pepper  and  add  a  little  good  sherry. 

(1036).  SMALL  SPINY  LOBSTER  TAILS  A  LA  MONTE  CARLO  (Queues  de  Petites  Langoustes  a 

la  Monte  Carlo. 

Cut  a  few  fresh  mushrooms  into  large  dice,  and  cook  them  with  butter  and  lemon-juice;  poach 
a  few  dozen  large  oysters,  cut  them  up  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  strain  their  broth. 
Cook  twelve  ounces  of  picked  rice  in  some  fish  stock  (No.  195),  mixed  with  the  oyster  and  mushroom 
broths,  and  a  coffeespoonful  of  red  pepper  (No.  168);  have  it  when  done,  the  consistence  of  a  Creole 
rice.  Keep  in  boiling  water  seven  or  eight  small  spiny  lobsters,  each  one  weighing  ten  ounces;  drain, 
and  detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies;  put  the  latter  back  into  the  water  to  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer, 


MOLLUSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  411 

then  drain  and  pick  out  all  the  creamy  parts.  Split  each  tail  in  two  lengthwise,  both  meat  and 
shells,  keep  all  the  water  running  off  from  the  meat,  and  fry  these  halved  tails  in  a  sautoire  for  five 
or  six  minutes  with  some  oil  and  chopped  shallots;  season,  and  dredge  over  a  little  red  pepper; 
moisten  them  to  their  height  with  good  court  bouillon  (No.  38)  and  white  wine,  add  some  mush- 
room peelings,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  a  lemon  pulp,  and  two  chopped  tomatoes,  and  allow 
the  liquid  to  boil  rapidly  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then  drain  off  the  halved  tails,  so  as  to  take  out  the 
meats  and  keep  them  warm.  Strain  the  lobster  broth,  stir  into  it  the  water  reserved  from  the  meats, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  half -glaze,  then  thicken  it,  first  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  after- 
ward with  a  thickening  of  egg-yolks,  cream,  and  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  the  creamy  parts;  butter 
the  sauce  off  the  fire  without  ceasing  to  stir.  After  the  rice  is  done  to  perfection,  pour  over  it  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567),  and  let  it  smother  for  five  or  six  minutes;  stir  in  the 
oysters  and  mushrooms;  dress  this  rice  into  a  vegetable  dish,  smooth  the  surface  dome-shaped,  and 
in  the  center  stick  standing  three  or  four  large  crawfish;  around  these  dress  the  half  tails  almost 
upright,  and  cover  over  with  a  little  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  surplus  in  a  sauce-boat.  Should  the 
spiny  lobsters  have  to  be  replaced  by  small  ordinary  lobsters,  then  the  lobster  claws  must  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  crawfish  and  be  stuck  into  the  summit  of  the  dome. 

(1037).  LOBSTEK  A  LA  NEWBERG  OE  DELMONICO  (Homard  a  la  Newberg  ou  a  la  Delmonico), 
Cook  six  lobsters  each  weighing  about  two  pounds  in  boiling  salted  water  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Twelve  pounds  of  live  lobster  when  cooked  yields  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  meat  and 
three  to  four  ounces  of  lobster  coral.  When  cold  detach  the  bodies  from  the  tails  and  cut  the 
latter  into  slices,  put  them  into  a  sautoir,  each  piece  lying  flat  and  add  hot  clarified  butter; 
season  with  salt  and  fry  lightly  on  both  sides  without  coloring;  moisten  to  their  height  with 
good  raw  cream;  reduce  quickly  to  half  and  then  add  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine;  boil 
the  liquid  once  more  only,  then  remove  and  thicken  with  a  thickening  of  egg-yolks  and  raw 
cream  (No.  175).  Cook  without  boiling,  incorporating  a  little  cayenne  and  butter;  warm  it  up 
again  without  boiling,  tossing  the  lobster  lightly,  then  arrange  the  pieces  in  a  vegetable  dish  and 
pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1038).  LOBSTER  A  LA  PAUL  BERT  (Homard  a  la  Paul  Bert). 

Take  eight  one- pound  lobsters  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  into  which  has  been  added 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  sliced  onions,  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar;  let  them  boil  steadily  twenty  min- 
utes, then  remove;  detach  the  bodies  from  the  tails;  take  the  meat  out  whole  from  the  latter  by 
breaking  the  inside  of  the  shell  only;  then  wash  and  dry  the  shells.  Cut  up  the  tail  meat  into 
transversal  slices;  put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sautoire,  range  the  lobster  escalops  on  top,  and 
saute  them,  adding  a  small  finely  chopped  up  shallot,  half  as  much  shrimps  as  lobster,  and  half  as 
much  fresh,  peeled  walnuts  as  shrimps.  (Should  there  be  no  fresh  walnuts  procurable,  take  dry 
ones  and  soak  them  for  twelve  hours  in  salt  and  water,  then  peel.)  Drain  off  the  butter  and  replace 
it  by  a  reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter,  with 
lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley,  being  careful  to  have  the  sauce  quite  thick.  Fill  the  lobster 
shells  with  this  preparation,  dress  them  crown-shaped  on  a  bed  of  parsley,  and  arrange  a  bunch 
of  parsley  leaves  on  top. 

(1039).  LOBSTER,  PROVENQAL  STYLE  (Homard  a  la  Provenpale). 

Divide  into  equal  pieces  two  medium  sized  raw  lobster  tails,  season  them  with  salt  and  mignon- 
ette, and  saute  them  in  oil  over  a  very  hot  fire,  turning  them  round  so  that  they  color  nicely  on 
both  sides.  Mince  up  very  finely  eight  ounces  of  onions,  cutting  them  first  in  halves,  and  sup- 
pressing the  root  and  stalk,  put  them  in  with  the  lobster  with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette,  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  and  four 
spoonfuls  of  burnt  brandy,  boil  a  few  minutes;  take  out  the  pieces  of  lobster,  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  sieve,  and  reduce  it  over  a  brisk  fire  with  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  despumate  the 
sauce,  and  when  nearly  reduced,  put  back  the  lobster,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

(1040).  LOBSTER  ROASTED  ON  THE  SPIT  (Homard  Roti  a  la  Broche), 

Kill  a  large  six-pound  lobster  by  plunging  it  into  boiling  water  for  three  minutes,  lay  it  on  the 
spit  without  trussing,  only  fastening  the  claws  together  with  an  iron  skewer,  or  else  attach  it  to  the 
spit  cradle  and  lay  it  in  front  of  a  good  fire,  turning  it  around  while  besprinkling  with  a  brush 


THE    EPICUREAN. 

dipped  in  butter  and  lemon  juice;  salt  it  while  it  is  very  hot;  pour  over  a  good  mirepoix  with  wine 
(No.  419)  and  aromatics.  A  lobster  weighing  six  pounds  requires  forty  minutes  cooking,  and  must 
be  besprinkled  quite  frequently;  when  the  meat  is  done,  the  shell  should  be  softened.  Remove  the 
lobster  from  the  spit,  dress  it  on  a  dish  and  serve  separately  a  shallot  sauce  finished  with  some 
butter;  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat,  or  replace  it  by  a  half -glaze  reduced  with  white  wine,  into 
•which  has  been  added  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  orange. 

(1041).  LOBSTEB  1  LA  ROTOEMOITT  (Honiara1  a  la  Kougemont). 

Kill  three  lobsters  each  weighing  two  pounds  by  plunging  them  for  two  minutes  into  boiling 
water;  when  well  drained,  break  off  the  claws  from  the  bodies  so  that  they  occupy  less  room  in 
cooking,  and  put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan;  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  water,  and  add  cut  up  carrots,  celery,  leeks  and  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley 
branches  and  pepper  corns,  let  all  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes,  and  drain  off  the  lobsters.  Detach 
the  tails  from  the  bodies,  split  the  latter  lengthwise  to  obtain  all  the  creamy  parts,  which  must  be 
pressed  through  a  sieve  and  laid  aside.  Cut  the  tail  meat  into  slices,  keeping  all  the  water  issuing 
from  it;  fry  in  either  two  ounces  of  butter  or  oil,  the  body  shells  after  chopping  them  up  coarsely 
on  the  table,  add  minced  carrots,  celery,  onions,  leeks,  shallots  and  paprika,  half  of  the  lobster 
stock,  and  the  water  from  the  meat;  let  all  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  sieve. 
Suppress  the  shells  from  the  claws,  cut  up  the  meat  the  same  as  the  tails,  season  with  salt  and  fry 
them  both  with  butter  for  two  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  moisten  with  the  stock,  adding  half  a 
pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  one  gill  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  let  simmer  for  twelve 
minutes.  Add  half  the  quantity  of  cooked  mushroom  heads,  and  the  creamy  parts  of  the  lobsters, 
thicken  with  egg-yolks,  one  gill  of  cream  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  pour  over  a  little  burnt 
brandy,  and  less  than  half  as  much  Madeira  wine;  dress  this  on  a  chafing  dish,  and  serve  at  the 
same  time  some  rice  cooked  in  milk,  seasoned  with  salt  and  lemon  peel. 

(1042).  LOBSTEE  TAILS  A  LA  STANLEY  (Queues  de  Bernards  a  la  Stanley). 
Wash,  blanch,  and  cook  in  a  white  broth  (No.  194a),  twelve  ounces  of  good  Carolina  rice,  keep- 
ing it  quite  consistent;  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  will  suffice  to  have  it  done;  keep  it  warm. 
Suppress  the  tail  shell  of  a  large,  freshly  cooked  lobster;  cut  the  meat  into  slices,  and  lay  them  in  a 
sautoire;  saute  these,  when  done  add  the  same  quantity  of  fish  quenelles  (No.  90)  molded  in  a 
small  coffeespoon  (No.  155),  five  or  six  whole  hard  boiled  egg-yolks,  a  few  dozen  crawfish  tails,  and 
the  same  amount  of  poached  and  trimmed  oysters.  Put  on  to  reduce  five  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415),  pour  into  it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  fish  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  a  part  of  the  broth  from 
the  oysters,  the  crawfish,  a  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  curry  dissolved  in  two  spoonfuls  of 
broth.  When  the  sauce  has  become  thick  and  succulent,  strain  it,  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan 
to  heat  once  more,  then  cover  the  garnishings  with  a  small  part  of  it,  keeping  it  in  a  bain-marie, 
while  the  remainder  is  to  be  set  on  the  side  of  the  range,  and  butter  worked  into  it.  Dress  the 
lobster,  in  a  chafing  dish  dome-shape,  with  the  garnishing  around,  and  on  top  lay  symmetrically 
four  cooked  crawfish,  having  their  tails  shelled,  and  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  lobster; 
lay  a  round  truffle  on  the  summit  of  the  dome,  and  send  to  the  table  at  once  with  a  sauce-boat 
of  the  buttered  sauce.  The  rice  to  be  served  separately. 

(1043*  SMALL  LOBSTERS  A  LA  CARLU,  STUPFED  LOBSTER  TAILS,  DEVILED  (Petits 
Homards  a  la  Oarlu,  Queues  de  Homards  Farcies  et  a  la  Diable). 

Split  in  two  lengthwise  three  or  four  small,  cooked  and  cold  lobsters,  and  pick  the  meat  from 
the  bodies,  cut  it  into  half  inch  square  pieces,  and  set  in  a  saucepan  with  half  its  quantity  of 
cooked  mushrooms,  cut  in  quarter  inch  dice.  Put  on  to  reduce  three  gills  of  good  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  409),  incorporating  slowly  into  it  the  broth  from  the  mushrooms.  With  this  sauce  cover  the 
prepared  salpicon  and  use  it  to  fill  the  half  lobster  shells  that  have  been  well  cleaned;  smooth  the 
tops  and  cover  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  cream  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76),  having  it  slightly  dome- 
shaped;  sift  over  white  bread-crumbs  and  sprinkle  the  surface  with  melted  butter,  then  range  the 
shells  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  and  brown  the  tops  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten  minutes,  then 
dress  them  on  napkins. 

To  Stuff  Lobster  Tails. — Cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  one  pound  of  lobster  meat 
cooked  in  a  court  bouillon  (No.  38),  add  to  these  half  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms  cut  up 


MOLLTJSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  413 

the  same  size.  Fry  colorless  in  butter,  two  tablespoon fuls  of  onions,  add  two  ounces  of 
flour,  and  fry  without  browning;  dilute  with  a  pint  of  milk  and  cook  again  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
add  the  lobster  and  mushrooms,  mix  well,  boil  up  once,  remove,  and  cool  off.  Fill  the  half  tail 
shells,  well  cleaned  and  dried,  with  this  preparation,  dredge  over  bread-crumbs,  besprinkle  with 
butter  and  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

For  Deviled.—  Clean  and  dry  the  half  body  shells;  fill  them  with  the  same  preparation  as 
above,  having  it  dome-shaped,  smooth  the  surface,  and  coat  over  with  mustard;  dredge  bread- 
crumbs on  top,  besprinkle  with  butter,  and  brown  nicely  in  the  oven. 

(1044).  LOBSTER  WITH  OEEAM  (Homard  a  la  Crerae), 

Plunge  two  lobsters  each  weighing  two  pounds  into  boiling  water,  so  as  to  kill  them  quickly; 
break  off  the  large  claws,  and  lay  them  in  a  narrow  saucepan  with  the  bodies;  moisten  them  to 
their  height  with  white  wine  and  water,  add  branches  of  parsley,  bay  leaf,  onions,  finely  shred 
carrots  and  salt;  let  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  drain  and  detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies.  Takeout 
the  creamy  part  from  the  bodies,  press  through  a  sieve,  and  keep  this  aside.  Fry  in  some  butter, 
four  finely  chopped,  blanched  shallots,  moisten  them  with  the  lobster  stock,  and  boil  for  fifteen 
minutes,  strain,  remove  the  fat,  and  reduce  to  a  half-glaze,  then  thicken  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  continue  to  reduce  while  pouring  in  two  gills  of  good  raw  cream,  strain 
this  sauce  and  add  to  it  the  creamy  parts  of  the  lobster,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper  and  half  a 
gill  of  burnt  brandy;  butter  it  without  ceasing  to  stir  so  that  the  butter  is  thoroughly  incor- 
porated. Cut  across  in  slices  the  tail  meat  and  shells;  cut  the  remaining  bodies  in  two,  and  dress 
the  two  halves  one  beside  the  other  in  the  center  of  a  dish;  range  around  the  slices  of  tail,  alter- 
nating each  piece  with  a  fine  slice  of  cooked  truffle,  and  on  top  of  the  body  shells  lay  the  claw 
meat;  cover  the  lobsters  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 


MUSSELS  (Moules), 


This bivalvular  shell-fish  is  without  any  distinct  head,  or  eyes,  or  organs  of  mastication;  there 
are  sea  and  river  mussels.  The  shells  from  the  sea  kind  are  oval  shaped, 
convex  on  the  outside,  and  concave  inside,  black,  bluish,  smoothly  polished, 
and  varying  from  two  to  three  inches  in  length.  Mussels  must  be  chosen 
very  fresh.  Be  careful  after  having  washed  them  to  place  them  in  a  vessel 
with  salted  water  and  leave  them  for  several  hours. 

FIG.  274. 

(1045).  MUSSELS,  HOW  TO  PEEPAKE  (Moules,  pour  Preparer), 

Obtain  four  quarts  of  medium  sized  mussels;  tear  off  the  grass,  scrape  them  well,  and  wash 
them  several  times,  changing  the  water  constantly.  Put  them  when  clean  into  a  saucepan  with  half 
a  pint  of  water  or  white  wine,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf;  set  the  saucepan  over 
a  brisk  fire,  cover  it  well,  and  open  the  mussels  by  tossing  them  frequently,  then  take  them  out 
with  a  skimmer  to  transfer  them  into  another  saucepan.  Strain  the  broth,  leaving  all  sediment  at 
the  bottom,  pouring  it  off  gently  not  to  disturb  the  sand;  take  out  all  the  empty  shells,  cut  off  the 
foot  (the  black  appendage)  from  the  mussels  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  put  them  back  on  their 
half  shells  into  their  own  broth. 

(1046).  MUSSELS  A  LA  MARINIERE  (Moules  a  la  Mariniere). 

The  mussels  should  be  prepared  as  for  No.  1045.  Cook  in  butter  one  shallot  with  the  same 
quantity  of  very  finely  chopped  onions;  moisten  with  white  wine,  add  the  mussels  and  a  little  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  and  mussel  broth;  keep  this  warm  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  a  piece  of 
fresh  butter  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1047).  MUSSELS  A  LA  POULETTE  (Moules  a  la  Poulette). 

Prepare  the  mussels  as  for  No.  1045;  cut  two  ounces  of  onions  into  one-eighth  of  an  inch  pieces 
and  cook  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  not  letting  them  attain  a  color,  moisten 
with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  a  small  part  ot  the  mussel  broth;  reduce  this 


414  THE    EPICUREAN. 

sauce  with  mushroom  parings  added,  strain  it  through  a  tammy,  and  thicken  with  a  thickening  of 
egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  of  the  broth,  and  fine  butter;  cook  this  thickening  without  allowing 
it  to  boil,  stirring  it  steadily;  season  to  taste  and  serve. 

(1048).  MUSSELS  A  LA  VILLEEOI  (Moules  a  la  Villeroi), 

These  must  be  prepared  as  for  No.  1045.  Take  the  mussels  from  their  shells;  cut  off  the  foot 
without  injuring  the  mussel,  then  dip  them  into  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  with  cooked  fine  herbs, 
well  reduced  and  partially  cold;  dip  them  in  for  the  second  time  when  very  cold,  then  put  them 
aside  in  the  ice-box  for  one  hour;  lift  them  up  with  a  thin  knife,  immerse  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  them  of  a  fine  color;  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(1049).  MUSSELS  STUFFED  A  LA  TOULOUSAINE  (Moules  Farcies  a  la  Toulcrasaine), 
To  be  prepared  the  same  as  for  No.  1045.  Take  them  out  of  their  shells  after  draining,  cut  off 
the  foot,  and  divide  the  mussels  up  into  half  inch  pieces.  Fry  in  oil  a  cut  up  onion,  and  a  whole  clove 
of  garlic;  add  to  it  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  moisten  with  mussel  broth  and  milk;  boil  and  stir  in  a 
little  finely  chopped,  cooked  spinach,  suppress  the  garlic,  and  add  the  mussels.  Fill  the  shells 
with  this;  range  them  on  a  dish,  strew  bread-crumbs  and  parmesan  on  top,  besprinkle  with  fine  oil, 
and  brown  them  nicely  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(1050).  MUSSELS  WITH  FINE  HEKBS,  BAKED  (Moules  aux  Fines  Herbes  Gratings). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  mussels  as  for  No.  1045.  Take  them  entirely  out  of  their  shells;  cut  off 
the  foot  with  scissors,  and  range  them  one  beside  the  other  on  a  buttered  dish;  sprinkle  the  top 
over  with  finely  and  separately  chopped  up  shallots,  onions,  mushrooms,  and  parsley;  lay  bread- 
crumbs and  grated  parmesan  over,  pour  in  some  melted  butter,  and  set  the  dish  in  the  oven  foi 
eight  or  ten  minutes. 

(1051).  MUSSELS  WITH  SHALLOT  (Monies  a  1'Echalote). 

Set  into  a  saucepan  a  few  dozen,  medium  sized  mussels;  let  them  open  over  a  brisk  fire, 
with  a  bunch  of  parsley  added,  and  toss  them  about  until  the  meats  get  firm.  Drain  them 
through  a  colander  laid  over  a  bowl,  in  order  to  collect  all  their  broth,  then  remove  the  empty 
shells  from  each,  and  put  the  mussels  back  into  the  saucepan  to  keep  warm.  Put  into  another  sauce- 
pan two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot,  and  one  of  onions;  add  a  gill  of  white  wine,  and  two  spoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar;  reduce  the  liquid  slowly  to  half,  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  let 
the  contents  get  partially  cold,  then  stir  in  three  or  four  raw  egg-yolks.  Beat  with  a  spoon,  and 
thicken  the  liquid  slightly  by  stirring  it  on  the  fire,  then  take  it  off,  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly, 
five  ounces  of  butter  divided  into  small  pats,  without  ceasing  to  stir;  finish  the  sauce  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  shallot  juice,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Dress  the  mussels  into  a  vegetable 
dish,  pour  over  the  sauce  and  serve. 


OYSTEES  (Huitres), 


A  bivalve  having  an  irregular  shell  attached  by  hinges,  and  having  an  oblong,  grooved  indent 
across.  It  is  headless,  toothless  and  sexless;  it  cannot 
live  out  of  water,  and  is  specially  fond  of  the  mouths  of 
rivers.  The  fishing  begins  in  September,  and  finishes 
in  the  latter  part  of  April;  in  all  the  intervening 
months,  or  those  containing  no  letter  R  in  their  names, 
the  oysters  are  replaced  by  Little  Neck  clams.  Fresh 
FIG.  275.  oysters  are  easier  digested  in  the  raw  state  than  when  FIG.  276. 

cooked,  for  the  heat  hardens  them  while  the  sea  water 

in  the  raw  ones  facilitates  digestion.  Oysters  contain  plenty  of  water,  very  little  solid  animal 
matter,  a  great  deal  of  lime  and  sulphate  of  iron,  osmazome  and  gelatin.  These  bivalves  agree  with 
worn-out  constitutions,  but  should  be  eaten  very  fresh.  Like  certain  fishes,  oysters  contain 
phosphorus. 


MOLLTJSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  415 

(1052).  OYSTEBS  A  LA  BEAENAISE,  TOMATOED  (Huitres  a  la  B6arnaise  Tomat&). 
Place  some  large  oysters  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire;  poach  them  slightly  in  their  own  liquor, 
drain  and  suppress  the  hard  parts,  then  roll  them  in  a  sautoir  containing  cooked  fine  herbs. 
Butter  some  boat-shaped  tartlet  molds,  line  them  with  a  delicate  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62) ;  and 
lay  one  oyster  and  some  of  the  fine  herbs  in  every  mold;  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat,  so  that 
it  is  well  filled  and  rounded  on  the  top,  then  poach,  unmold,  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs;  roll  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  tomato  bearnaise 
sauce  (No.  433). 

(1053).  OYSTEES  A  LA  BOUOIOAULT  (Huitres  a  la  Boucicault), 

Butter  a  deep  dish;  pour  into  it  some  oysters  with  their  own  liquor;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
tomato  catsup  and  tobasco  sauce;  scatter  over  a  few  bits  of  butter,  here  and  there,  and  then  set 
the  dish  into  a  hot  oven;  serve  as  soon  as  the  oysters  are  poached,  that  is  as  soon  as  they  are 
firm  to  the  touch. 

(1054).  OYSTEES  EISSOLETTES  A  LA  POMPADOUK  (Rissolettes  d'Huitres  a  la  Pompadour). 

After  blanching  medium-sized  oysters,  drain  and  suppress  the  hard  parts;  prepare  some  round 
pieces  of  thin  pancake,  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  fill  half  of  each  with  a  little  thick 
Italian  sauce  (No.  484);  lay  an  oyster  on  top  with  more  sauce  over,  then  force  a  quarter  inch 
cord  of  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  through  a  cornet  on  one  half  of  the  pancake;  fold  over 
and  fasten  the  edges  together;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  a  fine  color; 
then  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  and  garnish  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley. 

(1055).  OYSTEKS  A  LABUBINO  (Huitres  a  la  Eubino). 

Butter  a  deep  dish  and  pour  into  it  the  oysters  with  their  own  liquor;  season  with  salt  and 
black  pepper,  and  add  the  heart  stalks  of  a  head  of  celery  cut  into  thin  lengthwise  slices,  and  a  few 
small  pieces  of  fresh  butter;  cover  it  over  with  another  dish  and  set  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  serve. 

(1056).  OYSTEES  A  LA  VILLEEOI  (Huitres  a  la  Villeroi). 

Poach  some  large  oysters  in  their  own  liquor;  drain  and  wipe  them  dry.  Reduce  some  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  with  the  oyster  liquor  and  a  little  jelly,  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  and  leave  it  to 
get  nearly  cold;  cover  the  oysters  with  one  or  two  layers  of  this  sauce,  range  them  on  a  baking 
sheet,  one  beside  the  other,  and  put  them  away  until  thoroughly  cold,  pare  them,  then  dip  in 
beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  plenty  of  hot  fat  to  a  golden  color;  drain  and 
dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin;  lay  on  top  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauce- 
boat  of  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

(1057).  OYSTEES  BAKED,  A  LA  OEANE  (Huitres  au  Gratin  a  la  Crane). 
Lay  in  a  deep  dish  fit  to  be  placed  in  the  oven,  a  bed  of  medium  sized  drained  oysters;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter;  sift  over  some  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  pour  in 
a  little  sherry  wine  and  some  of  the  oyster  liquor;  repeat  the  same  operation  until  the  dish  is  full, 
then  besprinkle  the  whole  with  bread-crumbs;  scatter  small  pats  of  butter  hore  and  there,  and  set 
the  dish  into  a  hot  oven  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  to  bake  them  a  fine  color,  then  serve. 

(1058).  OYSTEE  BEOOHETTES  WITH  TEUFPLES  (Huitres  en  Brochettes  anx  Truffes). 
Poach  in  their  liquor  three  dozen  large  oysters;  when  they  are  cold,  pare  and  season,  run  a 
small  wooden  skewer  through  their  centers,  alternating  each  oyster  with  a  round  slice  of  cooked 
truffle.  Dip  these  brochettes  into  a  well  reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  into  which  has  been 
added  chopped  mushrooms  and  fine  herbs.  Range  them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  leave 
them  in  the  ice-box  till  the  sauce  is  thoroughly  cold;  three  hours  later,  detach  them  from  the  sheet, 
remove  the  superflous  sauce,  and  shape  them  nicely,  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs,  dip  them  in 
beaten  eggs,  and  again  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces,  and  plunge  the  brochettes  into  very 
hot  fat,  until  *hey  attain  a  golden  color;  then  withdraw  the  skewers  and  dress  them  at  once  on  a 
folded  napkin.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 


416  TTtE    EPICUREAN. 

(1059).  BROILED  OYSTERS,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  AND  ON  SKEWERS  (Huitres  Grillees  Maitre 

d'flotel  et  en  Brochettes). 

Drain  some  large  oysters;  wipe  dry,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  range  them  on  a  hinged 
broiler,  coat  over  either  with  melted  butter  or  oil  (but  no  bread-crumb?/,  broil  them  over  a  quick 
fire  without  coloring,  then  dress  them  on  pieces  of  toast,  and  pour  over  a  little  slightly  melted 
maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581);  or,  they  may  be  bread  crumbed  after  dipping  in  butter,  and  then 
broiled  over  a  slow  fire,  covering  with  the  maitre  d'hotel  butter. 

For  Brochettes  or  Skeivers. — Blanch  some  large  oysters,  run  a  skewer  through  them  twining 
around  with  a  band  of  very  thin  and  fat  bacon,  cut  sufficiently  long  that  one  alone  answers  for  a 
brochette;  sprinkle  over  some  butter,  and  broil  them  over  a  quick  fire,  then  dress  them  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  cover  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(1060).  FRIED  OYSTERS  A  LA  HORLY  (Huitres  Frites  a  la  Horly). 

Poach  some  medium  sized  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  drain  and  suppress  the  hard  parts; 
wipe  them  in  a  cloth,  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel  to  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  parsley, 
chopped  mushrooms,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  oil;  let  marinate  for  two  hours;  now  dip  them  in 
fine  frying  batter  (No.  137j,  into  which  has  been  mixed  well  beaten  egg-whites;  immerse  each 
oyster  into  this  paste  and  plunge  them  at  once  into  very  hot  fat;  fry  them  a  fine  color,  drain,  salt, 
and  dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin.  Set  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top  and  quartered  lemons 
around;  to  be  served  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  light  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(1061).  OYSTERS  FRIED  WITH  BUTTER  OR  LARD  (Huitres  Frites  au  Beurre  ou  au  Saindoux) 

fried  Oysters  With  Slitter. — Poach  the  oysters  lightly  in  their  own  liquor,  then  drain  and 
roll  them  in  pulverized  cracker-dust,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  that  has  been  mixed  with  a  little  milk 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  strained  through  a  strainer;  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs.  Put 
some  butter  into  a  sautoire  or  frying-pan;  when  very  hot  lay  in  the  oysters  one  beside  the  other, 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  fried  nicely  on  one  side,  turn  them  over  on  the  other  when  done;  drain, 
and  pile  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Fried  Oysters  with  Lard. — Drain  medium-sized  oysters;  roll  them  in  pulverized  cracker-dust, 
then  dip  them  in  eggs  to  which  have  been  added  an  equal  quantity  of  oyster  liquor  and  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  beaten  well  with  a  whisk  and  strained  through  a  strainer.  Roll  them  once 
more  in  the  cracker-dust,  shape  them  nicely,  and  plunge  them  into  very  hot  lard;  when  a  fine 
color,  drain,  besprinkle  with  a  little  table  salt  and  dress  on  folded  napkins. 

(1062).  OYSTERS  ON  CRUSTS  (Huitres  sur  Croutes). 

Blanch  in  their  liquor,  three  dozen  large  oysters;  pare  and  cut  them  up  into  five-eighths 
inch  squares.  Put  on  to  reduce  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  mix  in  with  it 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  raw,  chopped,  peeled  mushrooms,  continue  to  reduce  the  sauce  without 
ceasing  to  stir,  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  oyster  broth,  and  a  little 
cream.  Use  this  sauce  to  mingle  with  the  oyster  salpicon,  being  careful  to  keep  the  mixture  of 
a  good  consistency,and  use  it  to  cover  seven  or  eight  hollow  bread-crusts  (No.  52),  prepared  the 
same  as  for  poached  eggs  browned  and  emptied  just  when  ready  to  serve.  Smooth  the  surfaces, 
bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  sprinkle  over  with  a  little  melted  butter;  brown  them  with  a  hot 
shovel  or  else  a  gas  salamander,  and  serve. 

Another  Way.  —Prepare  some  oysters  the  same  as  oysters  a  la  poulette  (No.  1067).  Cut  the 
tops  from  some  rolls,  empty  them  by  removing  all  the  crumbs,  rub  fresh  butter  over  the  inside 
and  outside  of  the  rolls,  color  nicely  in  the  oven;  when  the  crust  is  crisp,  fill  it  with  the  prepared 
oysters,  put  the  cover  on,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(1063).  OYSTERS,  PHILADELPHIA  STYLE  (Huitres  a  la  PbiladelpMe), 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  pan  and  let  it  cook  till  nut  brown,  then  add  to  it  twenty  oys- 
ters well  drained  and  wiped;  fry  them  till  they  assume  a  light  color  on  both  sides,  then  pour  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  oyster  liquor,  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  at  the  same  time  thin  slices  of  toasted 
bread,  or  else  pour  the  oysters  over  slices  of  toast  laid  in  a  deep  dish. 


MOLLTJSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  417 

(1064).  STEAMED  OYSTERS  AND  ON  TOAST  (Euitres  a  la  Vapeur  et  Sur  Oroutes  Grilles). 

Wash  very  carefully  some  medium  sized  unopened  oysters:  lay  them  on  a  wire  grater  provided 
with  a  handle  so  that  they  can  easily  be  removed  when  done;  set  this  grater  into  a  steamer,  cover 
it  as  hermetically  as  possible,  and  when  the  oysters  are  opened,  lift  them  out,  take  off  the  flat  shell, 
and  serve  them  in  the  deep  ones.  Each  guest  seasons  his  oysters  according  to  his  individual  taste] 
with  salt,  black  or  red  pepper  or  tomato  catsup.  Serve  some  melted  butter  separately. 

Steamed  Oysters  on  Toast.—  They  must  be  steamed  as  for  the  above;  open  and  put  them  into  a 
sautoire  with  their  own  juice;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  add  a  little  fine  butter,  and  serve  them 
in  a  deep  dish  over  slices  of  toasted  bread. 

(1065).  OYSTERS,  BECHAMEL  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Huitres  Bechamel  aux  Truffes). 
Keduce  a  cream  beohamel  sauce  (No.  411)  with  the  oyster  liquor;  season  with  salt,  cayenne 
and  nutmeg;  add  the  poached  oysters  (No.  1067)  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  in  a  piece  of 
fresh  butter  and  very  finely  chopped  truffles. 

(1066).  OYSTERS  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE  (Huitres  a  la  Hollandaise). 

Poach  the  oysters  (No.  1067),  then  drain  them,  dress  them  into  a  deep  dish  and  cover 
them  with  a  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477). 

(1067).  FRICASSEED  OYSTERS  OR  A  LA  POULETTE  (Huitres  Fricassees  ou  a  la  Poulette). 

To  Poach  Oysters. — Set  a  saucepan  on  the  hot  fire,  and  place  the  oysters  in  it  with  their  own 
liquor,  being  careful  to  stir  them  about  at  times  to  prevent  them  adhering  to  the  bottom;  when 
firm  to  the  touch,  drain  them  from  their  liquor.  They  can  also  be  poached  by  placing  a  few  at  the 
time  between  two  tin  sheets,  the  top  one  or  cover  being  smaller  than  the  bottom  one,  so  that  the 
ridge  of  the  top  sheet  be  the  same  size  as  the  bottom  of  the  lower  one.  Put  the  oysters  in  the 
bottom  buttered  sheet  with  their  own  liquor,  salt,  pepper  and  fresh  butter,  cover  with  the  smaller 
sheet  turned  over,  set  this  on  the  fire  and  at  the  first  boil,  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  ten 
minutes  or  until  poached,  then  drain  off  the  liquor. 

Oysters  Fricasseed  or  &  la  Poidette. — Reduce  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  oyster  liquor, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  little  cream;  incor- 
porate into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  some  strained  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1068).  OYSTERS,  VIENNAISE    (Huitres  Fricassees  a  la  Viennaise). 

Reduce  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  oyster  liquor,  and  just  when  prepared  to  serve, 
thicken  it  with  raw  egg-yolks  and  cream ;  stir  in  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  and  some 
finely  chopped  parsley,  mix  the  oysters  with  the  sauce  and  serve. 

(1069).  OYSTERS  STUFFED  A  LA  MORNAY  iHuitres  Farcies  a  la  Mornay). 

Poach  about  thirty  medium  oysters  in  their  liquor,  pare  and  split  them  through  the  center, 
then  stuff  this  opening  with  a  fine  hash  made  of  half  lobster,  half  mushrooms  and  a  little  parsley 
mixed  with  a  little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  until  it  becomes  thick;  garnish  a  buttered 
baking  dish  with  these  oysters,  cover  with  a  layer  of  cold  Mornay  sauce  (No.  504),  smooth  the 
top  nicely  and  strew  over  some  grated  parmesan  cheese;  and  color  in  a  very  hot  oven  or  under  the 
gas  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(1070).  OYSTERS  STUFFED  AND  FRIED  (Huitres  Farcies  et  Frites). 

Poach  large  oysters  in  their  own  liquor;  when  cold,  trim  them  and  cut  them  through  their 
thickest  part  without  separating  the  pieces,  then  stuff  this  opening  with  a  preparation  of  cooked 
fine  herbs  mingled  with  a  reduced  and  thick  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  press  down  the  top 
part  so  as  to  attach  them  together,  then  season.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  bread-crumb  them  Eng- 
glish  style  (No.  13),  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  and  after  they  have  attained  a  fine  colo^- 
drain  and  serve  them  at  once  on  folded  napkins. 


418  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1071).  OYSTEES  WITH  QUERY-INDIAN  STYLE  (Huitres  au  Kari  a  1'Indienne), 

Have  some  lai'ge  oysters  placing  them  in  a  saucepan  with  their  own  liquor,  put  on  the 
fire  and  when  slightly  firm  to  the  touch,  drain  and  suppress  the  hard  parts.  Cut  up  two  ounces  of 
onions  into  very  small  squares;  fry  without  coloring,  besprinkle  with  a  little  flour,  and  stir  well, 
then  moisten  with  the  oyster  liquor  and  white  wine,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  curry,  let  boil, 
and  despumate;  add  the  oysters  and  keep  warm  until  ready  to  serve.  In  the  meantime  cook 
some  rice  in  water  with  salt  and  a  piece  of  butter;  when  done  and  dry,  add  to  it  a  very  little  be- 
chamel sauce  (No.  409),  also  a  small  pinch  of  saffron;  heat  it  thoroughly  and  lay  it  in  a  plain  border 
mold  (Fig.  139)  dipped  in  cold  water;  unmold  it  on  the  serving  dish;  lay  the  oysters  inside  this 
border,  and  send  to  the  table  while  very  hot. 

(1072).  OYSTEES  WITH  PINE  HEEBS  (Huitres  aux  Fines  Herbes). 

Drain  medium-sized  oysters;  dry  them  on  a  cloth  and  roll  them  in  flour,  then  saute  them  in 
very  warm  butter,  and  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish;  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  be- 
strew the  top  with  chervil,  parsley  and  chives,  all  finely  and  separately  chopped  up. 

(1073).  OYSTEES  WITH  PAEMESAN  FEIED  IN  OIL  (Huitres  au  Parmesan  Frites  a  1'Huile). 

Take  medium  sized  oysters  that  have  not  been  poached;  drain  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth;  then 
roll  them  in  grated  parmesan  cheese.  Beat  up  some  eggs  in  a  vessel;  add  the  same  quantity  of 
cream,  stir  well,  and  strain  through  a  strainer,  dip  the  oysters  in  this,  roll  them  in  cracker  dust, 
and  smooth  them  nicely,  plunge  them  into  very  hot  oil,  and  fry  them  to  a  nice  golden  color, 
drain,  salt,  wipe  and  dress  them  on  folded  napkins. 


SCALLOPS,  ST.  JACQUES    SHELLS    (Petoncles,  Coquilles  St,  Jacques  ou 

Ooquilles  des  Pelerins), 


Testaceous  bi valvular  mollusks,  having  a  semi-circular  shell  grooved  on  the  sides  forming  rays 
on  each  valve  toward  the  edges.     They  are  eaten,  although  of  a  tough  nature. 

(1074).  SCALLOPS  A  LA  BEESTOISE  (Petoncles  a  la  Brestoise). 
Cook  the  scallops  in  a  sautoir  with  white  wine  and  half  as  much  mush- 
room liquor,  drain  and  chop  them  well.     Fry  in  butter  without  coloring, 
FIG.  srr.  finely  cut  up  onions,   moisten  with   the  scallop  broth,  add   fresh  bread- 

crumbs, and  let  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  well-chopped  lobster 

coral,  fine  herbs,  salt,  nutmeg,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  a  piece  of  butter  and  the  chopped  scallops;  mix 
thoroughly  and  with  this  preparation  garnish  the  scallop  shells  full  and  rounded  on  top;  besprinkle 
with  fresh  bread-crumbs,  pour  over  a  little  butter,  and  set  them  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  a  fine 
color,  dress  crown-shaped  on  folded  napkins  with  sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  center. 

(1075;.  SCALLOPS  A  LA  HAVEAISE  (Petoncles  a  la  Havraise). 

Pour  white  wine  into  a  saucepan;  add  the  scallops  and  take  them  off  at  the  first 
boil;  drain  and  mince  them  finely.  Fry  without  coloring  some  chopped  shallots, 
dredge  over  a  little  flour,  add  the  minced  scallops  and  their  broth  reduced;  lobster 
coral  and  chopped  up  parsley.  Fill  well  buttered  scallop  shells  with  this  prepara- 
tion, having  them  rounded  on  the  top,  strew  over  bread-crumbs,  besprinkle  with 
butter  and  color  in  a  hot  oven,  then  dress  them  on  a  napkin  in  a  straight  row,  FIG.  278. 
and  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

(1076).  SCALLOPS  A  LA  MAEINIEEE  (Potencies  a  la  Mariniere). 

This  simple  dish  is  highly  appreciated  by  amateurs  of  shell-fish.  Cut  the  scallops  up  into  quar- 
ter-inch squares;  put  them  back  on  their  deep  shells;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  over 
some  finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  parsley  and  bread-crumbs,  and  lay  on  each  a  small  piece 
of  butter,  also  a  teaspoonful  of  white  wine.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  and 
after  removing  them,  pour  over  a  little  lemon  iuice,  then  dress  on  folded  napkins  garnishing  with 
sprigs  of  parsiej. 


MOLLUSKS    AISTD    CRUSTACEANS.  419 

(1077).  SCALLOPS,  ORLY  (Potencies  alaOrly), 

Put  the  scallops  into  a  bowl  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  shallots,  oil  and  lemon  juice,  let  mar- 
inate for  one  hour,  then  roll  them  in  cracker-dust  and  plunge  them  into  hot,  white  frying  fat  to 
fry  a  fine  color.  They  are  to  be  dressed  on  a  folded  napkin  and  garnished  with  fried  parsley, 
serving  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  separately. 

With  Milk  and  Flour. — Season  with  salt  and  pepper;  moisten  with  a  little  milk,  roll  them  in 
flour  and  fry  a  golden  brown;  drain,  wipe  and  dress  the  scallops  on  a  folded  napkin. 

With  Eggs  and  Bread-crumbs. — Season  the  scallops  with  salt  and  pepper,  immerse  in  beaten 
eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  nice  color;  drain,  wipe  and  dress  on  a  napkin. 

(1078).  SCALLOPS  ON  TOAST,  BAKED  (Croutesde  P^toncles  auGratin.) 

Toast  some  slices  of  Jocko  bread  (No.  3416),  and  lay  them  on  a  well  buttered  dish.  Blanch 
the  scallops  in  a  little  white  wine,  salt  and  pepper,  range  them  on  the  toast,  one  beside  the 
other,  very  close  together.  Mix  the  scallop  broth  with  some  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and  with 
this  cover  all  the  scallops  and  toast;  besprinkle  with  bread  raspings,  grated  cheese  and  butter, 
and  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

(1079;.  ST.  JACQUES  SHELLS,  PARISIAN  STYLE-LARGE  SPECIES  OF  SCALLOPS  (Coqnilles 

St.  Jacques  a  la  Parisienne— Grands  Petoncles). 

Open  eight  or  ten  large,  fresh  St.  Jacques  shells  (Fig.  277 — large  species  of  scallops), 
detach  the  meats,  also  the  white  and  red  milts,  poach  with  a  little  white  wine,  drain  and  cut  them 
into  dice  pieces;  keep  this  salpicon  aside.  Fry  some  chopped  onions  and  shallots  in  butter,  add  raw 
mushrooms  cut  in  small  squares  and  let  cook  until  they  have  reduced  their  moisture,  then  put  in 
the  prepared  salpicon  five  or  six  minutes  later.  Season  the  stew,  thickening  with  freshly  reduced 
be'chamel  (No.  409),  boil  again  for  a  few  moments  without  ceasing  to  stir;  it  should  now  be  quite 
consistent;  finish  off  of  the  fire  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  and  a  piece 
of  red  butter  (No.  580).  Take  the  stew  up  with  a  spoon  and  fill  the  shells,  bestrew  the  preparation 
with  bread-crumbs,  sprinkled  over  with  melted  butter  and  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten 
minutes,  take  out  and  dress. 


SHRIMPS  (Crevettes  de  Mer), 


A  small  crustacean  with  a  long  body,  the  tail  is  about  as  long  as  the  body  itself.    The  two  first 
feet  end  in  a  claw  shape;  only  after  being  cooked  or  dipped 
in  alcohol  does  its  meat  turn  red. 


(1080).  PRIED  SHRIMPS  (Crevettes  Prites). 
Take  half  a  pound  of  shrimps;  they  should  be  alive;  wipe 
them  in  a  cloth.     Melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  ^  __ 

saucepan,  let  it  settle   and  pour  off  the  top    into  a  pan;  FIQ.  279. 

when  very  hot,  add    to    it  the  shrimps,   season,   and  fry 
them  over  a  good  fire  from  eight  to  ten  minutes  or  until  they  become  a  good  red  color,  then 
serve. 

(1081).  SHRIMPS  WITH  MUSHROOMS  AND  TOMATOED  BEARNAISE  (Orevettes  aux  Champignons 

alaBearnaise  Tomate"e). 

Drain  some  large  shrimps;  fry  them  in  butter  with  raw  minced  mushrooms;  season  with  salt, 
nutmeg  pepper  and  lemon  juice;  add  some  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  fish  glaze  (No.  399).  Fill 
the  bottom  of  a  dish  with  some  tomatoed  bearnaise  (No.  433),  and  dress  the  fried  shrimps  on 
top,  strewing  over  a  little  chopped  parsley. 


420  THE    EPICUREAN, 

TEEEAPIN  (Terrapkie), 


Diamond-back  or  salt  water  terrapin  are  found  all  along  the  Atlantic  coast,  but  more  especially 
in  the  Chesapeake  bay  and  its  tributaries;  other  salt  water  species  from  Massachusetts  to  Texas 
are  quite  numerous,  and  as  a  substitute  for  those  of  the  Chesapeake  are  extensively  used  by  houses 
of  ordinary  reputation.  The  scarcity  of  Chesapeake  diamond-back  terrapin  grows  more  apparent 
each  year,  and  even  now  it  frequently  requires  many  days  of  laborious  and  tedious  work  and  many 

miles  of  walking  over  soft  boggy  marshes,  of 
prodding  in  deep  narrow  channels  with  long 
shafted  tongs  by  men  skilled  and  familiar 
with  all  their  cunning  habits  before  one  is 
taken  from  a  hiding  place,  just  below  the 
surface,  sufficiently  deep  for  protection 
against  the  winter  frosts.  The  favorite  place 

FlQ  gyo  for  the  hibernation  of  the  very  largest  size  is  a 

few  inches  below  the  soft  oozy  mud  at  the  bed 

of  a  three  or  four  fathom  V-shaped  channel  in  the  bed  of  a  creek  of  about  the  same  distance  from 
shore  to  shore.  Thousands  of  such  creeks  penetrate  the  shores  and  islands  of  the  Chesapeake,  and 
those  less  frequented  by  man  are  instinctively  selected  by  the  terrapin  for  its  haunts.  At  least 
ninety  per  cent,  of  those  taken  from  the  beds  of  deep  creeks  will  measure  six  and  one-half  to  eight 
and  one-half  inches  with  an  average  weight  of  nearly  two  and  three-fourths  pounds,  are  females; 
while  eighty  per  cent,  of  those  bedded  in  the  marshes  have  an  average  weight  of  three-fourths 
of  a  pound  and  measure  less  than  five  inches.  The  males  invariably  bed  in  the  marshes  and  among 
the  rushes  of  very  shallow  ponds,  only  venturing  in  cold  water  during  the  summer  and  the  warm- 
est spring  and  fall  months,  in  which  time  they  lead  a  migratory  life  in  search  of  food,  consisting 
principally  of  small  shell  fish  and  the  soft-shell  crabs.  About  ninety-eight  per  cent,  of  the  male 
terrapin  never  exceed  five  inches  in  length  on  the  bottom  shell,  while  the  female  has  been  known 
to  measure  nine  inches  and  weigh  seven  and  one-half  pounds.  In  the  month  of  December, 
1885,  Delmonico  received  from  Baltimore  a  Chesapeake  Maryland  terrapin  measuring  eight  and 
three-fourths  inches,  weighing  nine  and  one-half  pounds  and  containing  fifty-six  eggs;  this  must 
be  accepted  as  one  of  the  finest  specimens  ever  found  of  the  diamond-back  Chesapeake  bay  terrapin. 
The  standard  length  for  those  who  buy  and  sell  terrapin  is  six  inches;  when  of  this  dimension  they 
are  called  "counts."  Both  the  male  and  female  are  very  shy  and  active,  swim  well  and  run 
(though  awkwardly)  with  considerable  speed.  Prior  to  about  1870  the  salt  and  brackish  waters  of 
the  bay  literally  teemed  with  this  now  nearly  exterminated  and  hence  valuable  reptile;  they  could 
betaken  by  the  dozen  at  a  single  haul  of  a  long  net,  but  the  market  value  was  so  small  as  to  render 
them  almost  worthless  except  for  local  use,  and  in  consequence  thousands  of  large  egg  terrapin 
were  fed  away  to  swine  or  cooked  for  fattening  fowls.  The  people,  thoughtless  and  unprincipled, 
have  robbed  themselves  by  trapping  incalculable  quantities  of  terrapin  before  they  had  matured 
sufficiently  for  breeding  and  by  digging  eggs  from  beneath  the  sand  shores  where  they  had  been 
deposited  by  the  females  to  hatch.  While  the  laws  enacted  by  the  legislatures  of  Maryland  and 
Virginia  for  their  protection  differ  somewhat  they  are  both  excellent,  and  had  they  been  rigidly 
enforced  this  spectacle  of  ultimate  extermination  would  not  exist.  The  time  for  hibernation  usu- 
ally lasts  about  six  months,  beginning  with  approaching  frosty  weather  in  the  fall  and  continuing 
till  the  warm  spring  weather;  they  bury  a  few  inches  deep  in  the  mud  and  leave,  at  the  spot  where 
they  disappear,  a  mound  in  the  middle  of  which  a  hole  can  be  discerned.  It  is  this  mound  and 
its  hole  which  first  attracts  the  attention  of  the  fisherman;  during  this  period  an  enormous 
quantity  of  terrapin  are  caught  in  their  torpid  state.  They  take  no  nourishment  whatever  while 
in  this  condition.  They  hatch  their  young  toward  the  end  of  June  and  the  beginning  of  July. 
The  terrapin  season  is  from  the  month  of  November  to  May;  they  are  at  their  best  during  Decem- 
ber, January,  February  and  March.  Very  often  terrapin  are  sent  to  market  in  October  and  Nov- 
ember, also  penned  terrapin  of  the  year  before. 

Penned  Terrapin.—  Are  those  caught  beforehand  and  kept  in  an  enclosed  place;  they  are  fed 
on  oysters,  crabs  or  fish;  these  terrapin  are  never  so  good  as  those  freshly  caught.  The  small 
species  of  terrapin  are  divided  into  two  classes:  heifers,  the  under  shell  of  these  never  measuring 
more  than  five  inches  in  length,  and  bulls  five  to  five  and  a  half.  Terrapin  begin  to  hatch  their 


MOLLTJSKS    A1STD    CRUSTACEANS. 


421 


eggs  at  the  age  of  four  years;  while  growing  their  shell  lengthens  one  inch  every  year,  so  their  age 
may  be  approximately  judged  by  their  length,  for  example:  a  six-inch  terrapin  is  supposed  to  be 
six  years  old. 

TABLE  LIST  NO.  1. 


A 

Gross  102 

Number. 

Size. 

Pound. 

Ounce. 

Accord'g 
to  No. 

Price  pei- 
Pound. 

Price  per 
Dozen. 

Total. 

12 

12 
12 
12 
12 
12 

i  terra]: 

5 

51 
5* 
5| 
51 
5* 

)in  18  o 

9f 
15 

15i 
141 

unces. 

13 
20 
18 
21 
19 
19 

No.    6 
No.    1 
No.    5 
No.    5 
No.    2 
No.  4-5 

$0.90 
1.30 
1.10 
1.15 
1.20 
1.12 

$  8.77 
19.50 
14.85 
17.54 
17.10 
15.96 

Waste  20 

Net  82 

Average  dozen  15.70. 
Average  weight  of  eac 

$93.72 

B 

Gross  156 

12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 

61 

6f 
6 

61 
6f 

6* 

QO  1 

&&1£ 

20^ 
26 
28 
24 

30 
34 
24 
26 
34 
32 

No.    3 
No.    5 
No.    6 
No.    6 
No.    5 
No.    3 

1.60 
1.60 
1.30 
1.35 
1.60 
1.65 

$36.00 
40.80 
23.40 
27.00 
41.60 
39.60 

Waste  20 

Net  136 

Average  dozen  35.15. 

$208.40 

Average  weight  of  each  30  ounces. 


c 

Gross  214 

12 
12 
12 

7 
71 
?i 

30 
36 
34i 

40 
48 
46 

No.  4 

No.  3 
No.  5 

1.70 
1.80 
1.75 

$51.00 
64.80 
59.94 

Waste  20 

12 

71 

36f 

49 

No.  5 

1.80 

66.15 

Net  194 

12 
12 

7 
71 

26i 
30| 

36 
42 

No.  6 
No.  5 

1.60 
1.70 

42.00 
52.26 

Average  dozen  53.72. 

$336.15 

Average  weight  of  each  43  ounces. 


D 

Gross  273 

12 
12 

12 

81 
8i 

8 

38i 

«1 

39 

52 
55 
52 

No.  6 
No.  5 
No.  5 

1.85 
1.90 
1.85 

$  70.76 
78.83 
72.15 

Waste  20 

12 

81 

49 

65 

No.  3 

2.05 

100.45 

Net  253 

12 

12 

8 
8 

42 

44£ 

56 
59 

No.  4 

No.  3 

1.90 
2.00 

79.80 
89.00 

Average  dozen  81.08. 

$490.54 

$1,128.81 

Average  weight  of  each  56  ounces. 


The  average  weight  of  the  dozen  for  the  whole  list  is  27£  pounds.  The  average  price 
of  the  whole  list  is  $1.70.     The  average  price  of  the  dozen  for  the  whole  list  is  $47.00. 


FIG.  281. 


The  prices  quoted  above  are  the  actual  prices  of  terrapins  in  New  York,  Baltimore  and  Cris- 
fleld,  and  are  liable  to  fluctuate  according  to  the  market  supply;  this  can  be  overcome  by  diminish- 
ing or  augmenting  the  price  per  pound. 

The  letters  in  the  four  divisions  of  the  table  No.  1,  refer  to  sizes  of  the  terrapins.  A.,  denotes 
terrapins  from  five  to  six  inches;  B.  from  six  to  seven,  etc. 

To  make  use  of  these  tables:  Weigh  the  terrapins  and  barrel  as  received,  deduct  weight  of 
barrel,  grass,  etc.,  which  will  leave  the  net  weight.  Sort  the  terrapins  by  sizes  in  differences  of  a 
quarter  of  an  inch,  using  the  measure  shown  in  Fig.  281.  Weigh  the  terrapins  of  each  size  by 


422 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


ounces,  then  find  the  average  weight  of  each,  refer  to  table  No.  2,  looking  in  the  first  column  for 
the  corresponding  length,  then  find  in  what  column  their  average  weight  in  ounces  is  found;  in  this 
same  section  will  be  found  their  price  by  the  pound;  for  instance:  a  seven  and  three-quarter  inch 
terrapin  weighing  64  ounces  at  $2.05  cents  a  pound  will  cost  $8.20,  or  one  dozen  will  cost  $98.40. 


TABLE  LIST  NO.  2. 

No.  1.          No.  2.          No.  3.          No.  4.          No.  5. 


No.  6. 


Length  of  Under  Shell 
and  approximate  weight. 

Price 
per  Ib. 

Price 
perlb. 

Price 
per  Ib. 

Price 
per  Ib. 

Price 
per  Ib. 

Price 
perlb. 

5  inches 
1  pound 

18  oz. 
$1.20 

17  oz. 
$1.15 

16  oz. 

$1.10 

15  oz. 

$1  05 

14  OZ. 
$1.00 

13  OZ. 

90c 

o£  inches 
1  pound  2  ounces 

20 
1.30 

19 
1.20 

18 
1.15 

17 
1.10 

16 

1.05 

15 

1.00 

5£  inches 
1  pound  5  ounces 

24 
1.35 

23 

1.30 

22 

1.20 

20 
1.15 

18 
1.10 

16 
1.05 

5|  inches 
1  pound  7  ounces 

26 
1.40 

25 
1.35 

24 
1.30 

23 

1.20 

21 
1.15 

19 
1.10 

6  inches 
1  pound  11  ounces 

30 
1.65 

29 
1.60 

28 
1.50 

27 
1.40 

26 
1.35 

24 
1.30 

6^  inches 
1  pound  14  ounces 

32 

1.70 

31 
1.65 

30 
1.60 

29 

1.50 

28 
1.40 

26 
1.35 

6£  inches 
2  pounds  1  ounce 

36 
1.75 

34 

1.70 

32 
1.65 

31 
1.60 

30 
1.50 

28 
1.40 

6f  inches 
2  pounds  5  ounces 

42 

1.80 

40 
1.75 

38 
1.70 

36 
1.65 

34 
1.60 

32 
1.50 

7  inches 
2  pounds  9  ounces 

48 
1.85 

46 
1.80 

42 
1.75 

40 
1.70 

S8 
1.65 

36 
1.60 

7^  inches 
2  pounds  14  ounces 

52 
1.90 

50 

1.85 

48 
1.80 

46 
1.75 

42 
1.70 

40 
1.65 

7-J  inches 
3  pounds  1  ounce 

56 
2.00 

52 
1.90 

50 
1.85 

48 
1.80 

46 
1.75 

44 
1.70 

7f  inches 
3  pounds  3  ounces 

64 
2.05 

60 
2.00 

58 
1.90 

51 

1.85 

50 

1.80 

46 
1.75 

8  inches 
3  pounds  8  ounces 

72 
2.10 

64 
2.05 

60 
2.00 

56 
1.90 

52 

1.85 

48 
1.80 

8£  inches 
3  pounds  12  ounces 

74 
2.15 

72 
2.10 

64 
2.05 

60 
2.00 

54 
1.90 

52 
1.85 

8£  inches 
4  pounds 

76 
2.25 

74 
2.15 

72 
2.10 

64 
2.05 

58 
2.00 

54 
1.90 

This  list  is  only  for  the  best  Chesapeake  Maryland  terrapins. 


MOLLUSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  423 

To  Select  Terrapin.— To  buy  terrapin  See  Schedules  or  Tables  Nos.  1  and  2.  When  buying 
terrapin  be  careful  to  observe  that  the  extreme  tip  or  muzzle  of  the  head  is  not  injured,  that  the 
bottom  of  the  feet  are  not  worn  off,  that  the  head  is  prettily  shaped,  small  thin  and  pointed,  the 
eyes  brilliant  and  the  feet  small  and  slender.  The  superiority  of  their  race  is  made  apparent  by 
their  fine  appearance.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  diamond-back  Chesapeake  bay  terrapin  are  far 
better  than  any  other  kind  found  in  the  markets.  Their  price  is  very  high,  they  being  sold  on  an 
average  of  the  five  to  six  inch  ones  or  over  at  a  $1.25  a  pound  or  $15.00  to  $17.00  a  dozen;  the  six 
to  seven  inch  ones  bring  $1.50  a  pound  or  $35.00  to  $40.00  a  dozen;  the  seven  to  eight  inch  ones 
bring  $1.75  a  pound  or  $55.00  to  $60.00  a  dozen;  the  eight  to  nine  inches  bring  $1.90  a  pound  or 
$80.00  to  $85.00  a  dozen.  They  should  be  procured  before  the  extreme  cold  weather  sets  into 
avoid  freezing  during  the  trip,  for  once  frost  bitten  they  die  easily. 

To  Keep  the  Terrapin.— In  order  to  keep  them  properly  they  must  be  left  in  a  cold 
place  forty  to  forty-five  degrees  Fahrenheit;  it  should  also  be  clean,  well  aired,  dark  and  better  be 
too  damp  than  too  dry.  They  must  be  placed  in  large  or  small  boxes  according  to  the  quantity; 
range  the  terrapin  in  the  boxes,  pressing  them  down  one  beside  the  other  so  that  they  cannot 
possibly  move,  and  between  each  bed  lay  damp  sea  grass.  When  packed  like  this  they  may  be 
kept  for  several  months.  Examine  the  terrapin  now  and  then.  Should  there  be  any  dead  ones 
take  them  out.  They  must  be  handled  with  care,  laid  one  next  to  the  other,  not  thrown,  as 
they  are  very  tender  and  delicate  and  are  liable  to  die  easily,  incurring  a  heavy  loss,  as  a  dead 
terrapin  is  a  ruined  one  and  ought  to  be  thrown  away  at  once.  No  eggs  are  found  in  terrapin 
of  less  than  six  inches  long. 

(1082).  TO  PREPARE  AND  COOK  TERRAPIN  (Pour  Preparer  et  Ouire  la  Terrapene). 

Drop  the  terrapin  in  sufficient  tepid  water  to  allow  it  to  swim,  and  leave  them  thus 
for  half  an  hour,  then  change  the  water  several  times  and  wash  them  well.  Scald,  by 
plunging  them  into  boiling  water,  and  take  out  as  quickly  as  the  skin  (a  small  white  skin 
on  the  head  and  feet)  can  be  removed  with  a  cloth,  put  them  on  to  cook  in  water  without  any 
salt  or  seasoning,  or  else  in  a  steam  vessel  leaving  them  for  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes, 
and  lift  them  out  as  quickly  as  they  are  done.  In  order  to  be  sure  of  this,  press  the  feet  meat 
between  the  fingers,  and  if  it  yields  easily  under  the  pressure,  they  are  ready.  Those  that  cannot 
be  cooked  in  forty-five  minutes  are  considered  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  those  that  are  not  done 
after  one  hour  (unless  they  are  very  large),  should  be  rejected  as  worthless,  for  although  the  meat 
may  eventually  become  tender,  it  will  be  stringy  and  not  have  the  same  delicate  taste  of  a  good 
terrapin.  Let  them  get  cold,  cut  off  the  nails,  then  break  the  shell  on  the  flat  side,  on  both  sides 
near  the  upper  or  top  one;  detach  this  shell  from  the  meats,  empty  out  all  the  insides  found  in  this 
upper  shell,  suppressing  the  entrails  and  lights,  and  carefully  removing  the  gall  bladder  from  the 
liver,  being  very  particular  not  to  break  it,  also  cutting  away  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife  any  gall 
spots  to  be  found  thereon,  then  place  the  liver  in  cold  water.  Remove  the  white  inside  muscles,  as 
well  as  the  head  and  tail;  separate  the  legs  at  their  joints  and  divide  into  an  inch  and  a  quarter 
pieces;  do  not  break  the  bones;  the  lights,  entrails,  head,  tail,  claws,  heart,  muscles  and  gall 
bladder  to  be  thrown  away.  Lay  the  terrapin  in  a  saucepan  with  the  eggs  and  liver  cut  in  thin 
slices,  season  with  salt,  black  pepper  and  cayenne,  and  cover  with  sufficient  water  to  attain  to  the 
heighth  of  the  terrapin,  then  let  boil  and  finish  the  cooking  in  a  slow  oven  for  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes;  the  terrapin  is  now  ready  to  be  used,  and  can  easily  be  finished  by  following  the  recipes 
found  later  on.  Should  it  only  be  required  for  the  next  day,  place  in  tin  molds  or  else  small  China 
pots,  the  proportions  being  at  the  inside  bottom  two  and  three-eighths  inches,  on  top,  three  inches 
in  diameter,  and  two  and  three-eighth  inches  high.  Allow  four  or  six  eggs  to  each,  fill  them 
up  with  terrapin,  about  six  ounces  for  each,  and  finish  filling  with  the  broth;  each  mold  will 
contain  one  portion.  When  unmolded  each  one  should  weigh  seven  ounces.  This  quantity  will 
be  sufficient  for  two  or  three  persons  for  a  dinner  and  for  five  persons  for  a  buffet. 

(1083).  TERRAPIN  A  LA  BALTIMORE  (Terrapene  a  la  Baltimore). 

Have  one  quart  of  prepared  terrapin  as  explained  in  No.  1082;  drain  it  off.  Cook  four  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  till  it  becomes  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567),  but  watch  carefully  that  it  does  not 
blacken;  add  to  it  the  terrapin  with  some  salt,  freshly  ground  black  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne, 
fry  for  few  moments,  then  moisten  with  the  broth.  Dilute  one  tablespoonful  of  fecula,  arrowroot  or 
cornstarch  in  a  little  cold  water,  pour  it  in  with  the  terrapin,  toss  well  to  thicken  nicely,  and  just  when 


424  THE    EPICUREAN 

ready  to  serve  add  half  a  gill  of  good  sherry  wine.     After  the  terrapin  has  been  prepared  it  is 
served  in  chafing  dishes  kept  warm  by  water  boiling  continuously  by  means  of  an  alcohol  lamp, 


FIG.  282.  FIG.  283. 

or  else  in  small  silver  plated  saucepans  (Fig.  282)  or  in  China  terrapins  (Fig.  283),  the  backs  of 
which  are  loose  and  are  used  as  covers;  whichever  way  may  be  chosen,  be  most  particular  that  the 
terrapin  is  always  served  very  hot. 

(1084).  TEEEAPIN  A  LA  OKISFIELD  (Terrapene  &  la  Orisfield). 

Heat  well  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sautoir,  and  place  a  quart  of  cooked  and  drained  terrapin 
into  it,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  fry  the  terrapin  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  one  pint 
of  good  fresh  cream.  Reduce  this  cream  to  half,  thickening  with  a  tablespoonful  of  rice  flour 
diluted  with  half  a  gill  of  sweet  cream;  pour  in  when  ready  to  serve,  half  a  gill  of  good  sherry 
wine. 

(1085).  TEEEAPIN  A  LA  MARYLAND  OE  PHILADELPHIA  (Terrapene  a  la  Maryland  on  k  la 

Philadelphia). 

Pound  eight  hard  egg-yolks,  with  four  ounces  of  butter;  then  pass  through  a  sieve.  Prepare 
and  cook  one  quart  of  terrapin  as  explained  for  No.  1082,  add  a  pint  of  cream,  let  boil  for  five 
minutes,  then  thicken  it  with  the  prepared  egg-yolks  and  butter,  and  let  simmer  for  ten  minutes, 
seasoning  with  salt,  and  white  or  cayenne  pepper;  just  when  serving  mix  in  half  a  gill  of  good 
sherry  or  Madeira  wine. 

(1086).   TEEEAPIN   A   LA  NEWBEEG-  OE  DELMONIOO  (Terrapene  a  la  Newberg  ou  k  la  Del- 

monico). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  terrapin  the  same  as  No.  1082.  For  each  quart,  add  a  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  reduce  to  half,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  thicken  with  five  raw  egg-yolks 
diluted  with  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  toss  the  terrapin  while  adding 
the  thickening;  this  must  not  boil,  finishing  with  half  a  gill  of  very  good  sherry  wine  or  Madeira. 
The  sauce  should  be  thick  and  served  very  hot. 

(1087).  TEEEAPIN,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Terrapene  k  1'Ancienne). 

Choose  a  six  and  a  half  inch  terrapin,  scald  to  remove  the  skin,  and  wrap  it  in  several 
sheets  of  buttered  paper;  put  it  on  a  baking  sheet  and  set  it  into  a  slow  oven;  it  will  take  about 
an  hour  to  cook;  unwrap,  and  break  the  shell;  remove  the  meats,  suppress  the  gall-bag  attached  to 
the  liver,  also  any  spots  found  on  the  same,  and  cut  it  up  into  slices;  take  away  the  head,  tail, 
claws,  and  white  muscles  on  the  four  members,  and  then  warm  the  terrapin  in  a  good  thick  gravy 
(No.  405),  season  with  salt,  freshly  ground  pepper,  cayenne,  butter,  adding  some  good  sherry  wine. 
Serve  on  a  chafing  dish. 

(1088).  TEEEAPIN,  MARYLAND  CLUB  (Terrapene,  Maryland  Club). 

Have  the  terrapin  ready  and  cooked  as  for  No.  1082.  For  one  quart  of  it,  place  four  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  sautoir  on  the  fire;  let  it  heat  and  skim  it  well  until  it  begins  to  become  (nut  but- 
ter) ;  add  to  it  the  terrapin,  and  season  with  salt,  cayenne  and  black  pepper,  also  half  a  gill  of 
good  sherry.  It  can  also  be  prepared  by  placing  it  in  a  chafing  dish  with  salt,  cayenne,  fresh  but- 
ter, and  half  a  gill  of  good  sherry. 

(1089).  OUTLETS  OF  TEEEAPIN  AND  OEOQUETTES,  OEEAM  SAUCE  (Cotelettes  de  Terrapene 

et  Croquettes  Sauce  Or&me). 

Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  cooked  and  boneless  terrapin,  cut  in  half  inch  squares;  put  these  on  the 
fire  in  a  stewpan,  seasoning  with  salt  and  red  pepper;  heat  well  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  butter, 
and  cream  moistened  with  a  little  good  sherry;  let  get  partially  cold  and  then  mold  in  cutlet-shaped 


MOLLUSKS    AND    CRUSTACEANS.  425 

bottomless  molds  laid  on  a  sheet  of  heavy  buttered  paper  slightly  larger  than  the  mold  itself,  and 
set  on  level  baking  tins.  Fill  the  molds  to  the  top  with  terrapin,  lay  them  on  ice,  and  when 
the  preparation  is  perfectly  cold,  unmold  and  dip  the  cutlets  into  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs, 
then  fry  them  in  clarified  butter;  wipe  and  dress  crown-shaped  on  folded  napkins,  garnishing  the 
center  with  fried  green  parsley.  If  for  croquettes  mold  the  terrapin  in  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig. 
137)  and  finish  the  same  as  the  cutlets;  serve  a  cream  sauce  (No.  545)  separately. 

(1090).  STEWED  TEEEAPIN  WITH  MADEIRA.  WINE  (Bagoiit  de  Terrapene  au  Madere), 

After  the  terrapin  have  been  cut  up,  fry  them  in  butter,  then  dredge  over  a  little  flour  that 
has  been  browned  in  the  oven.  Fry  once  more  for  a  few  minutes,  moisten  with  half  white  wine 
and  half  broth  (No.  194a),  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  simmer  and  despumate  for  twenty 
minutes;  finish  cooking  in  the  oven  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes  longer,  and  just  when  prepared  to 
serve,  add  a  little  good  Sherry  or  Madeira  wine. 

(1090a),  TEEEAPIN  A  LA  TEENTON  (Terrapene  a  la  Trenton). 

Prepare  two  terrapins,  each  weighing  three  pounds;  when  cooked  and  ready,  as  explained  in 
No.  1082,  add  one  pint  of  cream  and  reduce  to  half ;  then  thicken  with  three  hard-boiled  eggs 
reduced  to  a  paste  with  three,ounccs  of  butter  and  three  coffeespoonfuls  of  fecula  diluted  in  three 
spoonfuls  of  good  sherry.  Season  with  salt,  freshly  ground  black  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  paprika 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sweet  Spanish  peppers;  finish  with  a  little  good  sherry. 

(1090b),  TEEEAPIN,  EPICUEEAN  STYLE  (Terrapene  a  rEpicurienne). 

The  diamond-back  Chesapeake,  Maryland  terrapins  are  considered  the  best.  They  must  be 
freshly  caught.  Long  Island  terrapins  are  also  much  liked  by  epicures,  some  averring  that  they 
are  as  fine  as  the  Chesapeake,  but  this  is  not  a  fact,  and  I  do  not  hesitate  to  class  them  according 
to  the  following  order :  First,  the  Chesapeake,  then  the  Long  Island,  Virginia,  Charleston  and 
Savannah,  North  Carolina,  Florida,  Mississippi  and  Texas,  the  Gulf,  Mobile,  etc.  Take  two  terra- 
pins, each  one  of  three  pounds  weight,  and  prepare  them  as  described  in  No.  1082.  Fry  in  two 
ounces  of  butter,  adding  two  ounces  of  rice  flour  well  mingled  in;  moisten  with  water  as  high  as 
the  terrapin  and  let  boil  until  thoroughly  cooked,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  add  a 
pint  of  cream  and  reduce;  finish  with  three  hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  pounded  and  formed  into  a. 
paste  with  three  tablespoorifuls  of  good  sherry  wine.  Serve  separately  on  a  folded  napkin  some: 
very  small  oysters,  drained  and  rolled  in  cracker  dust,  then  fried  in  butter;  surround  these  with 
quartered  lemons. 


TURTLE  (Tortue), 


An  amphibious  quadruped,  having  all  its  body,  except  the  head,  feet,  and  tail,  covered  with 
a  very  hard  shell.    It  is  enclosed  in  a  cuirass  composed  of  two  pieces;  the  one  covering  the  back  is 


FIG.  284. 


called  the  carapace;  this  is  convex  shaped;  the  vertebra  are  attached  to  it.  The  underneath  one 
is  attached  to  the  breast;  this  is  flat  and  is  called  the  plastron.  The  choicest  and  most  delicate 
part  of  the  turtle  is  that  attached  to  the  upper  shell- 


426  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1091).  TUETLE,  HAVANA  STYLE  (Tortue  a  la  Havanaise), 

Lard  the  fins  of  a  turtle  with  calf's  udder,  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  moistened 
with  Madeira,  and  when  the  turtle  is  cooked,  take  out  the  stock  and  put  it  into  a  flat  saucepan 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  reduce  and  despumate;  add  some  finely 
shreded  green  peppers,  peeled  and  quartered  tomatoes,  Spanish  olives  stuffed  with  anchovies 
and  fish  quenelles  (No.  90) ;  glaze  the  turtle  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  dress  with  the  garnishing 
around,  and  serve. 

(1092),  GEEEN  TUETLE  BAKED— SMALL  (Petite  Tortue  Verte  an  Gratin). 
Obtain  a  young  turtle  weighing  ten  pounds;  remove  and  lard  the  meat  with  small  lardons; 
clean  well  the  carapace;  braise  the  meats  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  with  the  belly  shells,  letting 
the  meats  be  well  cooked,  and  the  braise  stock  reduced  to  half;  transfer  the  meats  to  a  vessel, 
strain  the  stock  over  and  let  it  get  cold.  Cut  the  meats  up  into  quarter  inch  squares,  as  well  as  the 
cutaneous  parts  from  the  belly.  Fry  in  butter  four  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  squares;  sift  over  some 
flour,  and  moisten  with  the  stock;  add  the  turtle  meat;  stir  the  preparation  until  it  comes  to  a  boil, 
.season  and  thicken  with  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  butter,  and  press 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  some  parsley  and  finely  chopped  raw  mushrooms;  then  use  this  stew  to 
fill  up  the  carapace  or  deep  shell;  bestrew  over  with  bread-raspings,  besprinkle  with  butter  and  brown 
a  nice  color  in  a  slow  oven;  serve  when  very  hot. 

(1093).  TUETLE  STEWED  A  LA  POSTEE  (Eagout  de  Tortue  a  la  Foster). 
Cut  the  turtle  meat  into  one  inch  and  a  quarter  squares;  fry  them  in  butter,  and  sprinkle  over 
with  flour,  stir  well,  then  moisten  with  broth,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  small  onions,  a  piece  of  bacon  cut  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  mushrooms  cut 
the  same;  season  with  salt,  black  and  red  pepper,  this  should  not  be  confused  with  cayenne 
pepper,  they  are  entirely  different  (No.  168);  when  the  stew  is  done  and  ready  to  serve,  pour  in  a 
little  Madeira  wine,  suppress  the  parsley,  reduce  it  properly  and  serve. 


OPoisson). 


(1094).  ANGEL  FISH  A  LA  BAHAMA  (Poisson  Ange  a  la  Bahama). 

Prepare  a  wine  court  bouillon  (No.  39),  dress  an  angel  or  moon  fish,  tying  down  the  head. 
Place  this  fish  on  a  fish  kettle  grate;  just  cover  it  with  the  cold  court  bouillon,  and  allow 
the  liquid  to  come  to  a  boil,  then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range;  cover  the  top  with  a  buttered 
paper  and  let  cook  without  boiling;  the  time  it  will  take  depends  entirely  upon  the  size  of  the  fish ; 
if  it  weighs  six  to  eight  pounds,  it  will  certainly  take  from  one  hour  to  one  hour  and  a  quarter. 
When  finished,  drain,  and  slide  it  on  a  dish;  surround  with  clusters  of  cooked  shrimps  and 
cooked  mushrooms  and  cover  the  garnishing  with  a  lean  veloute  sauce  (No.  416)  with  white  wine, 
the  court  bouillon  and  two  cloves  of  garlic  added;  reduce  this  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce,  then 
take  out  the  garlic  and  add  some  powdered  sweet  Spanish  peppers  and  curry;  serve  the  remainder 
of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1095).  BLAOK  BASS  A  LA  NAEEAGANSETT  (Bass  Noir  a  la  Narragansett). 
Cut  the  bass  through  its  entire  length  in  two;  suppress  the  fillet  skin  and  remove  the  back 
bone;  divide  each  fillet  in  two  lengthwise  pieces,  then  into  slices,  half  an  inch  thick;  have  twelve 
of  these  paring  them  all  into  half-hearts;  range  them  in  a  well  buttered  sautoir,  one  beside  the 
other,  moistening  to  their  height  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  Cover  over  with  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper,  and  set  this  into  a  slow  oven  to  cook,  then  transfer  the  fillets  on  a  dish,  and  strain 
the  broth  over  the  fillets;  when  cold  remove  them  entirely  from  what  now  should  be  a  jelly;  reduce 
some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  this  jelly  and  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  when  reduced  quite 
thick,  add  chopped  mushrooms  and  fine  herbs  and  set  it  aside  to  get  partially  cold;  cover  the  entire 
fillets  with  this,  leave  them  until  perfectly  cold,  then  pare  nicely  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  roll 
in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  clarified  butter;  dress  crown  shaped  on  a  folded 
napkin  with  fried  parsley  in  the  center  and  quartered  lemon  around.  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat 
of  the  following  sauce:  Chop  up  one  shallot,  fry  it  in  butter,  add  to  it  twelve  small  finely  minced 
clams  without  any  liquor,  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  unsalted  bechamel  (No.  409).  Season  to  taste; 
when  ready  to  serve  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and  cream,  incorporating  a  good  sized  piece  of  fresh 
butter,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1096).  BLAOK  BASS  AIGUILLETTES  WITH  OYSTEE  OEABS  (Aiguillettes  de  Bass  tfoir  aux 

Orabes  d'Huitres). 

Pare  twelve  fillets  of  black  bass  free  of  skin,  shaping  into  aiguillettes;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  then  put  them  into  a  sautoir,  and  moisten  with  fish  stock  (No.  195)  and  the  oyster  crab 
broth;  cook  in  a  slow  oven,  basting  them  frequently  while  they  are  cooking,  then  drain  off  the 
liquid  and  reduce  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Just  when  prepared  to 
serve,  incorporate  into  it  a  good  sized  piece  of  butter,  then  strain  through  a  tammy.  Put  the 
oyster  crabs  into  a  sautoir  with  a  little  white  wine,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil 
drain  them  well.  Dress  the  fish  in  two  straight  rows  on  a  long  dish;  set  the  oyster  crabs 
between  these  two  rows,  and  cover  the  whole  with  half  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  other  half 
separately. 

(1097).  BLAOK  BASS  WITH  SWEET  PEPPEES  (Bass  Noir  aux  Poivrons  Doux). 
Split  the  bass  lengthwise  on  the  belly  side  to  the  back,  but  do  not  separate  the  pieces;  take 
out  the  backbone;  season  with  salt,  baste  with  a  little  oil,  besprinkle  with  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and 
broil  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  it  once  only;  when  done  dress  on  a  hot  dish.  Garnish  around 
with  sweet  peppers  fried  in  oil  with  a  little  crushed  and  chopped  garlic,  salt,  black  and  prepared 
red  pepper  (No.  168),  fine  herbs  and  lemon  juice. 

(487) 


428  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1098).  BED  BASS.    WATER  PISH  (Bass  Rouge.    "Water  Fish"). 

Cut  into  short  Julienne  some  carrots,  leeks,  parsley  root  and  celery  root;  slice  or  cut  some 
onions  into  squares,  and  put  all  into  a  saucepan  to  moisten  with  fish  broth  (No.  195);  boil  and 
reduce  to  a  glaze;  moisten  again  with  water,  add  salt  and  the  fish  whole,  cooking  it  in  this  court 
bouillon.  Drain,  reduce  the  stock,  thickening  it  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  and  butter;  mix  in  with  it  blanched  parsley  leaves.  Dress  the  fish  on  a  folded  napkin, 
surround  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and  serve  the  sauce  separate. 


(1099).  SEA  BASS  A  LA  VILLEROI  (Bass  de  Mer  a  la  Villeroi). 

Remove  the  fillets,  bones,  and  skin  from  a  sea  bass;  pare  the  fillets  into  half-heart  shapes  and 
season  each  piece  with  salt  and  pepper;  saute  these  in  butter  with  lemon  juice,  and  take  them  out 
singly  to  place  on  a  baking  sheet;  set  a  light  weight  on  top;  when  cold  pare  them  exactly  alike  and 
cover  over  with  a  well  reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  and  a  little  jelly,  into  which  has  been 
added  finely  chopped  mushrooms  and  parsley;  let  get  very  cold,  then  bread-crumb  them  by  rolling 
them  first  in  bread-crumbs,  afterward  in  beaten  eggs,  and  once  more  in  the  bread-crumbs;  smooth 
the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  wire  basket;  plunge  it  in 
very  hot  frying  fat,  taking  them  out  when  a  fine  color;  dress  on  napkins  and  serve  with  fried  pars- 
ley as  a  garnishing. 

(1100).  SEA  BASS  WITH  ALMOND  BUTTER  (Bass  de  Mer  au  Beurre  d'Amandes). 

Remove  the  fillets  from  the  fish ;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  saturate  with  oil,  and 
broil  over  a  slow  fire  without  browing;  dress  and  surround  the  fillets  with  potato  balls  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  first  boiled,  then  sauted  in  butter.  Cover  the  surface  of  the  fish 
with  slightly  melted  almond  butter  (No.  568),  and  besprinkle  the  potatoes  with  finely  chopped 
parsley. 

(1101).  STRIPED  OR  ROOK  BASS  A  LA  BEROY  (Bass  Ray6  ou  de  Roches  a  la  Bercy). 

Prepare  two  small  bass  each  of  two  pounds,  and  when  very  clean  cut  the  heads  into  pieces,  add- 
ing a  few  large  bones  from  other  fish;  put  all  these  into  a  small  saucepan  and  moisten  to  their 
height  with  a  good  fish  court  bouillon,  prepared  with  white  wine  (No.  39) ;  season,  let  the  liquid 
boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  so  as  to  extract  all  the  essence  from  the  bones,  then  strain  and  skim 


FIG.  285. 

off  the  fat.  Have  a  small  oval  baking-tin  with  raised  edges,  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  fillets  of 
fish;  sprinkle  over  with  chopped  up  onions,  shallots,  and  mushroom  parings;  lay  the  fillets  of 
fish  on  top  and  moisten  to  its  heigh th  with  some  of  the  above  court  bouillon;  after  the  liquid  has 
come  to  a  boil,  set  the  pan  into  a  moderate  oven  so  that  the  fish  cooks  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
drain  and  dress  the  fillets  on  a  medium  sized  dish  covering  it  with  a  smaller  one  to  keep  it  hot. 

Strain  the  broth,  free  it  from  fat,  and  pour  into  it  two  spoonfuls  of  good  white  wine,  then  let 
it  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze;  take  it  off,  stir  in  a  piece  of  butter,  finishing  with 
lemon  juice;  pour  this  sauce  over  the  fish.  Glazt  this  sauce  immediately  with  an  iron  or  gas  sala- 
mander for  two  minutes,  or  if  there  be  neither,  lay  the  dish  on  a  thick  baking  sheet  and  set  it  in  a 
brisk  oven,  being  careful  not  to  disturb  the  sauce.  The  delicacy  of  this  preparation  depends 
entirely  upon  the  excellence  of  the  court  bouillon. 


FISH.  429 

(1102).  STRIPED  BASS  A  LA  CONTI  (Bass  Ray!  a  la  Oonti). 

Lift  the  fillets  of  bass;  suppress  the  skin  and  trim  them  into  half  inch  thick  slices,  paring 
them  into  half-hearts,  two  inches  by  two  and  a  half;  season.  Cut  also  from  the  fish  small  strips 
three  inches  long,  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  sloping  the  ends  down  to  points;  make  five 
or  six  bias  incisions  through  half  their  thickness  and  fill  each  one  with  a  slice  of  very  green  pickled 
gherkin;  lay  these  strips  on  the  largest  end  of  the  fillet,  shaping  them  like  a  horseshoe,  and  place 
the  fillets  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  moisten  with  a  good  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39),  and 
cover  over  with  a  sheet  of  strong  buttered  paper;  bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil  and  finish  cooking  in  a 
slow  oven  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Dress  and  garnish  with  three-quarters  of  an  inch  ball-shaped 
potato  croquettes  (No.  2782),  strain  the  broth  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  glaze,  finishing 
the  sauce  with  a  good  sized  piece  of  butter,  stirring  it  in  with  a  wire  whisk,  also  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1103).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  LAGUIPIEEEE  (Bass  EayS  k  la  Laguipierre). 
Liftoff  the  fillets  from  several  bass,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  each;  suppress  the  skin  and  beat 
them  down  with  the  handle  of  a  knife,  fold  them  in  two  in  the  center,  and  trim  them  half  heart- 
shaped,  then  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  moisten  with  a  good  court  bouillon  (No.  38). 
Prepare  small  pike  quenelles  (No.  90),  some  oysters  or  mussels  and  mushrooms;  have  a  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  some  of  the  court  bouillon  and  thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  cream; 
strain  through  a  sieve  and  keep  half  of  it  aside;  to  the  other  half  add  the  quenelles,  mushrooms  and 
oysters.  Dress  the  well-drained  fish  crown-shaped,  fill  the  center  with  the  stew,  and  cover  the 
fish  with  half  of  the  remaining  sauce,  sending  the  other  halt  to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat.  Do  not 
garnish  the  fish  with  potatoes,  when  the  sauce  is  poured  over  it,  serve  them  separately. 

(1104).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  LONG  BEANOS  (Bass  Eay6  a  la  Long  Branch). 

After  the  bass  has  been  dressed  and  cleaned  remove  the  fillets  and  meats  adhering  to  the  skin, 
trimming  them  into  half  inch  thick  slices  shaped  like  half-hearts,  three  and  a  half  inches  by  two; 
place  on  a  baking  sheet,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  poach  them  in  butter  and  a  court  bouillon 
(No.  38);  let  get  slightly  cold  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight;  drain  and  pare  them  again.  Pre- 
pare a  good  essence  (No.  388),  with  the  heads  and  bones  of  the  fish;  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain, 
then  slowly  incorporate  into  it  one  quart  of  reduced  veloute  (No.  415);  add  a  little  oyster  liquor  and 
mushroom  essence  (No.  392),  and  when  the  sauce  is  properly  reduced  and  of  a  sufficient  succulence, 
thicken  it  with  egg-yolks  and  finish  with  a  piece  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573) ;  when  partly  cold 
cover  the  fillets  with  a  thick  layer  of  this  sauce,  and  set  them  aside  to  get  cold.  Dip  each  piece 
of  fish  into  beaten  eggs,  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  of  a  good  color  in  clarified  butter,  drain  and  dress 
on  folded  napkins. 

(1105).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  MAINTENON  (Bass  Eay6  k  la  Maintenon). 
Procure  small  bass  weighing  from  four  to  six  ounces;  cleanse  and  wash  them  well;  wipe  dry 
and  remove  the  skin  on  each  side;  season  with  salt  and  coat  over  with  butter;  wrap  them  up  in 
heavy  oiled  paper,  then  broil  them  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  unwrap  and  dress  them  on  a 
dish;  glaze  over  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  and  surround  with  oyster  bellies  and  pike  quenelles 
(No.  734).  Cover  these  garnishings  with  lobster  sauce  (No.  488),  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a 
separate  bowl  of  the  sauce. 

(1106).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  MASSENA— WHOLE  (Bass  Eay6  a  la  Masse~na— Entier). 
Fry  colorless  in  butter,  two  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  as  much 
carrots  cut  the  same,  as  much  minced  mushrooms,  one  bay  leaf,  the  same  quantity  of  thyme  and 
parsley  leaves,  moistening  with  white  wine  and  broth,  half  and  half;  cook  together  for  twenty 
minutes  and  let  get  cold.  Clean  and  dress  a  bass  of  six  pounds,  place  it  in  the  fish  kettle,  and 
pour  over  the  prepared  court-bouillon;  boil  and  skim  the  liquid  when  required,  then  remove  it 
from  the  hot  fire  and  continue  boiling  slowly  for  forty-five  minutes,  drain,  and  strain  the  stock, 
and  add  part  of  this  to  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  reduce  the  two  together.  When  ready  to 
serve  dress  the  bass,  glaze  it  with  fish  glaze  (No.  399),  mingled  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580), 
garnish  around  with  sauted  mushrooms  and  lobster  escalops  sauted  with  fine  herbs.  Incorporate 
into  the  sauce  a  large  piece  of  lobster  butter,  pour  two-thirds  over  the  lobster  and  mushrooms, 
surround  these  with  oysters  a  la  villeroi  (No.  698),  and  serve  the  rest  of  the  sauce  in  a  separate 
sauce-boat. 


430  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1107),  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  MOENAY  (Bass  EayS  a  la  Mornay), 

Remove  the  fillets  from  a  bass,  skin  and  pare  nicely,  then  lay  them  one  beside  the  other  (the 
side  the  skin  was  on  being  uppermost)  on  an  oval-shaped  raised  edge  baking  pan,  covering  the 
bottom  with  butter  and  finely  sliced  onions  and  carrots;  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  a  white  wine 
court  bouillon  (No.  39),  season  with  salt,  and  cover  the  top  with  a  buttered  paper;  cook  in  a  slow 
oven  basting  the  fillets  frequently.  When  the  fish  is  done,  drain  it  off  and  dress  the  pieces  on  a 
dish,  covering  it  with  another  smaller  one  to  keep  it  warm.  Strain  and  reduce  the  gravy,  incor- 
porating into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  bechamel  (No.  409);  when  it  appears  rich  and  succulent, 
finish  with  some  parmesan  cheese,  butter,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper;  pour  this  sauce  over 
the  fish,  dredge  grated  parmesan  on  top,  and  let  it  bake  slightly  in  a  very  hot  oven  or  brown 
the  surface  with  an  iron  or  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(1108).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  EOUENNAISE  (Bass  Eay6  a  la  Kouennaise). 
Dress  the  fish  and  put  it  into  a  fish  kettle,  moistening  with  a  mirepoix  (No.  419),  and  white 
wine,  adding  to  it  a  few  branches  of  parsley;  when  the  fish  is  done,  drain  the  stock,  and  reduce  it; 
mingle  it  with  a  Normande  sauce  (No.  509),  finished  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580).  Dish  up  the  fish 
and  garnish  around  with  blanched  oysters,  mushroom  heads,  and  pike  quenelles  (No.  90),  molded 
with  a  teaspoon  (No.  155),  the  whole  arranged  in  clusters.  Cover  over  with  half  of  the  sauce, 
and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat.  Besides  these  garnishings  an  outside  row  of  trussed 
crawfish  should  be  added. 

(1109).  STEIPED  BASS  A  LA  WHITNEY  (Bass  Eay6  a  la  Whitney). 

Remove  the  fillets  from  a  striped  bass;  lift  off  the  skin  and  pare  them  half  heart-shaped;  lay 
them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  season  with  salt,  red  pepper,  and  finely  chopped  shallots;  moisten 
exactly  to  their  height  with  a  court  bouillon  and  white  wine  (No.  39) ;  cover  with  buttered  paper, 
then  set  it  on  the  fire  to  cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes;  drain  the  liquid  from  the  fish,  and 
reduce  it  with  as  much  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  sauce,  thickening  with 
raw  egg-yolks  and  cream,  incorporating  also  into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Pare  the  fillets,  dress 
them  crown  shaped  and  garnish  the  center  with  lobster  escalops,  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms. 
Cover  the  whole  with  two-thirds  of  the  sauce,  sending  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  separate  sauce- 
boat. 

(1110).  STEIPED  BASS  BOILED  WITH  HOLLAKDAISE  MODEEN  SAUCE  (Bass  EayS   bouilli, 

Sauce  Hollandaise  Moderne). 

"Wash  and  clean  well  a  six  pound  bass,  tie  down  the  head  and  put  it  into  a  fish-boiler 
with  plenty  of  salt  and  a  large  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  clove  of  garlic;  cover  it  entirely 
with  cold  water  containing  a  little  vinegar.  Set  the  kettle  on  a  brisk  fire,  boil  the  liquid,  skim- 
ming off  the  scum  at  the  first  boil,  then  place  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  to  keep  bubbling  while 
covered  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  drain  and  dress  it  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  one  side 
with  boiled  potato  balls  and  the  other  with  small  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782),  shaped  either  as 
balls  or  olives,  and  at  the  ends  lay  very  green  sprigs  of  parsley.  Accompany  this  with  a  sauce- 
boat  of  modern  hollandaise  sauce  (No.  501). 

(1111).  STEIPED  BASS,  SHEIMP  SAUCE  WITH  FEIED  SCALLOPS  (Bass  Eay<§  Sauce  Crevette 

aux  Potencies  Frits). 

Lift  the  fillets  from  a  three  pound  bass,  pare  them  neatly,  removing  the  skin,  and  lay  them  on 
a  buttered  dish,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  moisten  with  white  wine  and  court  bouillon, 
(No.  39),  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven  without  attaining  a  color,  then  dress  on  a  hot  dish.  Roll 
some  scallops  in  flour,  fry  them  in  very  hot  fat  without  browning,  drain  and  put  them  into  a  frying 
pan  containing  a  piece  of  butter;  color  slightly,  besprinkle  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley.  Cover 
the  fish,  with  a  shrimp  sauce  (No.  540),  lay  the  scallops  around  and  send  some  of  the  sauce  to  the 
table  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1112).  STEIPED  BASS  WITH  FINE  HEEBS  (Bass  EayS  aux  Fines  Herbes). 
Pare  some  boneless  and  skinless  fillets  of  bass  in  the  shape  of  half  hearts;  put  them  in  a 
sautoir  after  buttering  it  well,   and   moisten   them  with  wine  and  mushroom    liquor;    cover 
and  put  to  cook  in  a  slack  oven;  drain  off  the  liquid,  pour  it  into  a  sauteing  pan  with  as 


FISH.  431 

much  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  reduce  well  and  finish  by  incorporating  a  large  piece  of  butter 
and  some  lemon  juice;  taste  to  judge  of  its  seasoning  and  add  more  accordingly.  Strain  this 
sauce  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  add  some  chopped  blanched  parsley  and  dress  the  fish  in  a 
circle  or  a  straight  row,  then  cover  with  the  sauce  and  serve  immediately. 

(1113).  STEIPED  BASS  WITH  WHITE  WINE-BAKED  (Bass  Eaye  Grating  au  Yin  Blanc), 

Take  off  the  fillets  from  a  medium  sized  bass  weighing  about  two  pounds,  remove  the  skin 
from  these  and  lay  each  whole  fillet  on  the  dish  intended  for  serving,  and  that  can  be  placed  in  the 
oven;  cover  the  fish  with  white  wine,  and  strew  over  some  onions  cut  in  thin  slices,  sprigs  of  parsley, 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  mushroom  parings,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  small  bits  of  butter.  Cover  with 
another  dish  of  the  same  shape,  only  smaller  and  put  it  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes; 
now  drain  off  the  liquid,  reduce  it  with  as  much  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  when  very  well 
reduced,  strain  through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  and  incorporate  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  working  it 
thoroughly  with  a  small  wire  whip.  Pour  this  all  over  the  fish  to  cover  it  entirely,  strew  the  top 
with  grated  parmesan  or  fine  bread-raspings,  and  let  it  attain  a  fine  color  in  the  hot  oven  or 
salamander  (Fig.  123);  serve  as  soon  as  it  is  browned. 

(1114).  BLACKriSH  A  LA  OELT  (Blackfish  a  la  Orly). 

Lift  the  fillets  from  a  blackfish;  remove  the  skin  by  laying  the  black  side  on  a  very  level  table 
or  board;  press  down  on  the  fish  with  the  left  hand,  while  with  the  right  pass  a  knife  between  the 
skin  and  flesh.  Divide  the  fillets  into  thin,  lengthwise  slices;  marinate  them  in  salt,  sweet  oil  with 
minced  onions,  lemon  juice,  and  tarragon  leaves;  two  hours  later  drain  them  on  a  cloth,  flour  over, 
and  dip  in  a  good  frying  batter  (No.  133);  plunge  them  into  hot  fat,  and  cook  slowly  till  a  fine 
color,  then  drain,  salt,  and  dress  them  on  napkins  with  sliced  lemon  around;  serve  a  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  separately. 

(1115).  BLA.CKFISH  A  LA  SANFOED  (Blackfish  a  la  Sanford). 

Kemove  the  fillets  from  sufficient  blackfish  leaving  on  the  black  skin;  divide  each  fillet  into 
two  pieces.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  with  butter,  chopped  shallots,  and  onions,  and  chopped 
mushrooms;  lay  on  top  the  pieces  of  blackfish,  and  a  branch  of  parsley,  and  moisten  with  a  court 
bouillon  (No.  38),  let  boil  slowly  for  six  minutes,  then  remove  the  sautoir  on  a  very  slow  fire; 
when  done  lift  out  the  fish  with  a  spatula,  suppress  the  black  skin,  and  dress  it  on  a  dish.  Gar- 
nish with  handsome  mushroom  heads,  oysters,  and  parsley  sprigs;  strain  the  broth,  reduce  it  to  a 
half -glaze,  and  thicken  it  with  a  pint  of  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Finish  it  away  from 
the  fire  with  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  a  very  little  finely  shredded  chives. 

(1116).  BLACKFISH  A  LA  VILLAEET  (Blackfish  a  la  Villaret). 

Cook  a  whole  blackfish  in  a  mirepoix  stock  with  white  wine  (No.  419),  drain  the  stock  after  the 
fish  is  done,  strain,  and  reduce  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  adding  chopped 
up  shallots;  thicken  the  sauce  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream,  fresh  butter,  and  fish  glaze  (No.  399); 
strain  it  again  through  a  tammy  and  finish  with  chopped  parsley.  Range  the  fish  on  a  dish, 
garnish  around  with  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782),  and  branches  of  parsley,  sending  the  sauce  to 
the  table  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1117).  BLUEFISH  A  LA  BAEtf AVE  (Bluefish  a  la  Barnave). 

Select  very  small  bluefish  weighing  half  a  pound;  clean,  wash,  and  wipe  them  dry.  Fill 
the  insides  with  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  into  which  has  been  mixed  a  quarter  of 
the  sa.ne  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Range  the  fish  on  a  buttered  baking  dish, 
sprinkle  over  some  butter  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  dress  them  on  a 
mushroom  puree  (No.  722),  and  serve  a  separate  barnave  sauce  (No.  431),  at  the  same  time  as 
the  fish. 

(1118).  BLUEFISH,  HAVANESE  STYLE  (Bluefish  k  la  Havanaise). 

Clean  a  bluefish  weighing  six  pounds;  wash  and  wipe  it  nicely;  raise  the  fillets,  suppress  the 
skin  and  pare  them  half  heart-shaped.  Put  some  clarified  butter  into  a  sautoir  on  a  brisk  fire  and 
when  hot,  lay  in  the  pieces  of  fish;  saute,  then  drain  and  dry  them,  afterward  dress  them  crown 


432  TFLE    EPICUREAN. 

shaped  on  a  baking  dish.  Have  already  prepared  a  good  tomato  sauce  made  from  peeled  tomatoes 
cut  into  five-eighths  inch  squares,  minced  mushrooms  and  four  ounces  of  onions  cut  into  three 
sixteenth  inch  pieces;  half  a  pound  of  sweet  peppers,  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  two 
pints  offish  broth  (No.  195);  reduce  the  whole  properly  and  cover  the  fish  thickly  with  this  pre- 
paration, then  set  it  into  the  oven  and  serve  after  a  few  moments,  dredging  over  some  chopped  up 
parsley. 

(1119).  BLUEFISH  DEVILED  (Bluefish  a  la  Diable). 

Have  well  cleansed,  washed  and  dried  bluefish;  split  them  open  on  the  belly  side  without 
separating  the  parts,  dredge  over  salt  and  pepper  and  besprinkle  with  oil;  broil  them  till  half  done 
then  cover  over  with  diluted  mustard,  strew  bread-crumbs  on  top  and  finish  broiling  the  fish 
over  a  slow  fire.  Serve  the  following  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat:  Chop  up  two  shallots;  place  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  gill  of  vinegar,  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  whole  black  peppers,  green 
peppers,  bay  leaf,  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  gravy.  Let  simmer,  despumate  and  strain 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159),  finishing  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  when  serving. 

(1120).  BLUEFISH  IN  PAPERS  (Bluefish  en  Papillotes). 

Fry  colorless  in  butter  one  ounce  of  shallots  and  the  same  quantity  of  mushrooms  and  half  as 
many  truffles  as  mushrooms,  chopping  each  one  finely  and  separately;  moisten  with  a  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413),  and  some  gravy,  then  reduce  this  sauce,  add  to  it  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  let 
sret  partially  cold.  Oil  some  pieces  of  paper  cut  heart-shaped;  pour  some  of  the  sauce  on  one  of 
their  sides,  lay  the  fish  on  top  with  more  sauce  over  and  fold  the  paper  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
f.'ioroughly  encloses  the  fish,  and  is  air  tight,  range  the  papers  on  a  serving  dish,  sprinkle  over  a 
kittle  oil,  and  set  it  into  a  hot  oven  and  when  they  swell  and  are  of  a  fine  color  send  them  to  the 
table  at  once. 

(1121).  BLUEPISH  WITH  MAYONNAISE  AND  TARRAGON  (Bluefish  k  la  Mayonnaise  et  & 

1'Estragon). 

Lift  the  fillets  from  very  fresh  bluefish,  also  the  skin  covering  the  meats  by  placing  the  fish  on 
a  very  even  board  and  pressing  down  on  the  fish  with  one  hand,  while  using  the  other  to  slip  a 
turn,  straight  knife  between  the  skin  and  meat.  Cut  the  fish  into  slices,  season,  and  bread  them  by 
tirst  dipping  them  in  eggs  and  then  in  bread-crumbs;  put  the  pieces  on  to  cook  in  a  sautoir  with 
clarified  butter,  being  careful  to  turn  them  over  when  nicely  browned  on  one  side;  when  done 
equally  well  on  both  sides,  drain  and  serve  them  on  a  hot  dish  surrouaded  with  quartered  lemons, 
berve  separately  at  the  same  time  a  mayonnaise  sauce  with  tarragon  (No.  612;. 

(1122).  BONITO  OR  TUNNY  FISH  A  LA  GODIVIER  fBonite  ou  Thou  a  la  Godivier). 
Raise  the  fillets  from  a  young  bonito  or  tunny  fish  after  having  washed  and  cleansed  it  well; 
place  it  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  moisten  to  its  height  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  Cover 
with  heavy  buttered  paper,  let  boil,  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven.  Fry  one  shallot  in  butter, 
dilute  it  with  some  of  the  fish  stock  and  the  same  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  after  the 
sauce  is  well  reduced  mix  in  with  it  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  a  little  crushed  garlic  and  some 
chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  bonito,  lift  off  its  skin  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1123).  BOUILLABAISSE  MARENGO  (Bouillabaisse  a  la  Marengo). 

Procure  several  fishes  of  medium  size,  and  firm  meats,  such  as  sheepshead,  blackfish  and 
bass,  and  two  small  live  lobsters;  all  these  fish  must  be  of  the  very  freshest.  Cut  off  the  fins  and 
projecting  bones  from  the  fish,  suppress  the  heads  and  thin  tail  ends,  then  cut  them  into  pieces 
about  two  inches  in  size;  break  off  the  lobster  tails  after  killing  them  in  boiling  water,  then 
place  all  these  pieces  of  fish  in  a  tureen  to  salt,  laying  a  piece  of  ice  on  top.  Finish  cooking  the 
two  lobster  bodies  in  the  same  water,  drain  and  split  open;  remove  all  the  creamy  parts,  rub 
them  through  a  sieve,  and  chop  up  the  remaining  parts  of  the  bodies.  Have  a  sauce-pan  con- 
taining a  little  oil,  fry  in  it  a  mirepoix  (No.  419),  and  minced  onions,  add  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  aromatic  herbs,  peelings  of  fresh  mushrooms,  the  two  chopped  bodies,  the  heads 
and  trimmings  of  all  the  fish,  also  a  few  cut  up  small  bony  fishes.  Moisten  to  their  heighth  with  hot 
fish  broth  (No.  195);  cook  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  on  a  good  fire,  letting  the  liquid  reduce  to 
one  third;  strain  and  remove  the  fat.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  deep  sautoir  with  two  cut  up  seedless 
tomatoes,  onions,  and  shallots;  range  the  pieces  of  fish  and  lobster  on  top,  one  beside  the  other, 


FISH.  433 

and  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  the  prepared  stock;  it  should  just  be  sufficient  to  cover,  otherwise 
reduce  it.  Cook  the  fish  in  this  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  remove  the 
pan  on  one  side,  and  strain  a  part  of  the  liquid  into  another  saucepan;  thicken  this  with  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  and  when  succulent  and  thick,  take  it  off,  pour  in  some 
burnt  brandy,  and  the  creamy  parts  of  lobster,  adding  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper;  finish  it 
•with  butter.  Dress  the  pieces  of  fish  in  a  pyramid  form,  surround  this  with  a  crown  of  thin 
crusts  of  kitchen  bread  browned  nicely  in  butter,  and  cover  the  fish  and  crusts  with  some  of 
the  sauce,  serving  the  surplus  in  a  bowl. 


(1124).  PARISIAN  BOUILLABAISSE  (Bouillabaisse  a  la  Parisienne). 

For  eight  persons  this  dish  requires  ten  pounds  of  fish  such  as  bass,  angel  fish  groupper  or 
any  other  fish  having  firm  flesh,  the  tail  of  a  small  lobster  and  a  few  large  crawfish;  all  this  fish 
must  be  of  a  superior  quality  and  of  the  very  freshest.  Suppress  the  heads  and  thin  tail  ends  from 
all  the  fish  after  cleaning  well,  and  with  the  bones,  head  and  parings  prepare  a  good  broth.  Cut 
the  bodies  of  the  largest  ones  into  steaks  or  squares;  chop  up  a  white  onions,  and  a  piece  of  the  white 
of  leek;  with  these  bestrew  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  wider  than  its  heighth,  add  two  small  seeded 
and  chopped  tomatoes,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  bay  leaf,  a  bit  of  saffron,  the  pulp  of  a  peeled  and 
seeded  lemon,  two-small  peppers,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  salt;  in  case  no  fresh  tomatoes  are  on 
hand,  use  a  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  but  not  a  sauce;  lay  in  the  pieces  of  fish  with  two  gills  of  good 
olive  oil,  and  three  gills  of  white  wine,  then  cover  with  the  prepared  broth,  after  straining  and 
skimming  it.  Set  the  saucepan  on  a  hot  fire,  boil  the  liquid  rapidly  for  fifteen  to  eighteen 
minutes — the  fish  should  by  this  time  be  thoroughly  cooked  and  the  broth  succulent  and  slightly 
thickened  by  the  reduction;  season  to  taste,  and  finish  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
small  piece  of  grated  garlic.  Have  a  deep  dish,  lay  in  it  fifteen  slices  of  plain,  white  bread  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and  slightly  buttered;  sprinkle  them  with  a  portion  of  the  broth,  turn 
them  over  and  pour  on  the  remainder.  Dress  the  pieces  of  fish  on  another  dish  with  a  little 
of  the  broth;  suppress  the  parsley,  garlic  and  bay  leaf,  and  send  the  two  dishes  to  the  table  at  the 
same  time. 


(1125).  BUPPALO  FISH    A  LA  BAVAEOISE  (Buffalo  Fish    a  la  Bavaroise). 

Scale  and  dress  two  Buffalo  fish;  raise  the  fillets  without  removing  the  skin;  season  and  dip 
them  in  flour.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  pan  pouring  off  the  top  while  hot,  put  the  fish  into  the 
pan,  and  fry  very  slowly,  turning  the  pieces  over  when  done;  drain  and  dress  them  on  a  dish; 
put  some  melted  butter  into  that  already  in  the  pan,  cook  it  to  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567)  and  take  it 
from  the  hot  fire;  pour  in  a  spoonful  of  cooked  vinegar  and  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  and  chives, 
pour  this  butter  over  the  fried  fillets  and  serve. 


(1126).  BUFFALO  FISH,  OEEAM  SAUOE  (Buffalo  Fish  a  la  Creme). 

Cut  off  the  head  and  thin  parts  of  the  tails  from  three  Buffalo  fish;  scale,  drain,  suppress  the 
gills,  wash  and  dry,  raise  the  fillets  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  moistening  with  a  white 
wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and  let  cook  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  drain  off  the  fish  and 
strain  the  stock.  Prepare  a  good  bechamel  with  cream  (No.  411)  and  add  to  it  a  part  of  the 
strained  fish  broth;  strain  the  whole  and  put  it  on  to  reduce,  incorporating  gradually  into  it  some 
mushroom  broth  and  fresh  cream.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  fish  fillets  and  let  them  simmer 
in  it  for  fifteen  minutes  on  a  very  slow  fire.  Dress  the  fish  and  pour  over  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454). 


(1127).  BUTTER-FISH,  MARINATED  AND  FRIED  (Butter-fish  Marine's  et  Frits). 

Make  an  incision  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  depth  on  both  sides  of  the  fillets,  lay  them  on  a  dish 
and  let  marinate  in  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  and  oil.  Two  hours  later,  drain  them  off,  roll  in  flour 
and  fry  firm  to  a  fine  golden  color. 


434 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(1128).  OAEP  (Oarpe). 

Common  Carp  is  a  fresh  water  fish  of  the  family  of  the  "  gymnopones."  It  is  used  on  our  tables, 
its  meat  being  considered  a  most  excellent  food. 


FIG.  286. 

German  Carp. — A  species  of  carp  partially  bare,  the  back  and  belly  being  the  only  parts 
covered  with  two  or  three  rows  of  golden  scales,  half  as  large  again  as  the  common  carp. 


FIG.  287. 

Salmon  Carp. — A  common  carp,  the  meats  having  acquired  through  local  circumstances  a 
reddish  tint  and  a  taste  analogous  to  the  salmon. 

(1129),  OAEP  A  LA  OHAMBOED— COMMON  OAEP  (Oarpe  k  la  Ohambord— Oarpe  Ordinaire). 

Procure  common  carp;  scale  it  by  slipping  the  blade  of  a  knife  between  the  scales  and  the  skin, 
empty  it  out,  cut  off  the  gills,  wash  and  wipe  dry.  Kemove  the  skin  from  one  side  of  the  fish  so 
that  the  meat  is  exposed,  and  stud  this  side  with  truffles;  fill  the  inside  with  a  fish  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  90),  into  which  has  been  mixed  a  quarter  as  much  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  cover  with  thin 
slices  of  fat  pork.  Braise  the  carp  in  a  white  wine  court  bouillon  (No.  39).  Instead  of  studding  the  carp 
on  one  side,  after  it  is  cooked,  the  whole  body  may  be  covered  with  a  light  layer  of  the  forcemeat 
then  brushed  over  twice  with  egg-yolks,  allow  to  dry  and  imitate  fish  scales,  using  for  this  the  tip 
of  a  soupspoon;  beginning  at  the  head.  Cover  over  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  in  either  case 
lay  the  carp  in  a  fish  kettle  moistening  it  to  half  its  heighth  with  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock 
(No.  419),  adding  more  moistening  as  fast  as  it  evaporates;  when  the  fish  is  done  let  it  acquire  a 
good  color,  then  dress  with  the  garnishings  around  in  clusters,  composed  of  mushroom  heads,  glazed 
truffles,  trussed  and  glazed  crawfish  tails,  smelt  quenelles  decorated  with  truffles  and  milts  a  la 
villeroi  (No.  698),  with  the  third  part  of  a  genevoise  sauce  (No.  469),  to  which  the  broth  has  been 
added  and  the  whole  reduced;  pour  over  the  mushrooms  and  send  the  remainder  to  the  table  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1130).  OAEP  BEEADED  AND  BEOILED,  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  (Oarpe  Pane's  et  Grillee,  Maitre 

d'Hotel). 

After  the  carp  is  prepared  and  split  in  two  lengthwise,  remove  the  spinal  bone,  season  with  salt 
and  dip  the  fish  first  in  melted  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  it  over  a  slow  fire;  when 
finished  bring  the  two  halves  together;  dress  it  as  if  it  were  whole.  Surround  with  potato  balls 
sauted  in  butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  fine  herbs  and  lemon  juice  well  stirred  in. 

(1131).  OAEP  FEIED,  GAENISHED  WITH  PAESLEY  (Oarpe  Trite  Garnie  de  Persil). 
Scale  one  or  several  carps;  cut  off  the  gills  and  remove  the  entrails,  then  split  them  in  two 
lengthwise  through  the  belly  without  separating  the  parts;  take  out  the  spinal  bone  and  the  one 
found  in  the  head.  (Soak  the  milts  for  a  few  minutes  in  milk,  drain,  salt,  roll  in  flour  and  fry.) 
Fry  the  carp  until  it  becomes  firm  and  of  a  fine  golden  color,  then  drain  and  range  it  on  a 
folded  napkin,  lay  on  top  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  and  surround  with  the  fried  milts  and  lemons 
cut  in  four. 


FISH.  435 

(1132).  GEEMAN  OAEP  WITH  SAUEEKEAUT  (Oarpe  Mixoir  a  la  OhoucrouteX 
Select  a  German  carp  of  medium  size,  cleanse  it  well,  wipe  dry,  tie  down  the  head  and  lay  the 
fish  in  a  deep  and  narrow  baking  pan  covered  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  roots  and  sliced  onions 
bay  leaf,  branches  of  parsley  and  basil.  Moisten  with  half  broth  (No.  194a)  and  half  white  wine, 
seasoning  with  salt,  cloves  and  whole  peppers;  cover  over  with  a  heavy  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  then 
let  it  boil  and  finish  cooking  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  frequently.  When  done,  dress  the  fish  on 
a  thick  layer  of  cooked  sauerkraut  (No.  2819),  and  surround  with  small,  round,  one  inch  in 
diameter  lobster  croquettes  breaded  and  fried  (No.  880).  Strain  and  skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy, 
thicken  it  with  a  few  pieces  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579),  pass  it  again  through  a  tammy  and  serve  it 
in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1133).  OAEP  STUFFED  A  LA  CHAMPENOISE-SALMON  (Oarpe  Saumone'e  Farcie  a  la  Ohampenoise). 
Scale  and  clean  two  carps  each  of  two  pounds;  prepare  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  add- 
ing to  it  a  quarter  as  much  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Stuff  both  the  fish  with  this  forcemeat  and 
wrap  them  up  separately  in  slices  of  fat  pork,  or  in  buttered  paper,  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419); 
moisten  with  white  wine  and  broth,  and  when  the  fish  is  cooked,  strain,  and  skim  the  fat  from 
the  gravy,  then  reduce  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Boil  it  on  one  side 
only,  despumating  well;  add  some  champagne  wine,  and  reduce  once  more.  Just  when  ready 
to  serve,  dress  a  garnishing  around  the  fish,  composed  of  mushrooms,  quenelles,  and  small  onions; 
cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  and  send  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  separate  sauce-boat,  arrang- 
ing around  the  edge  of  the  dish  trussed  crawfish,  and  fried  carps'  milts. 

(1134).  CISCO,  OASTILLANE  SAUCE  (Cisco  a  la  Sauce  Oastillane). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  both  sides  of  the  cisco,  remove  the  skin,  and  place  the  fillets  when  well 
pared  into  a  bowl  or  dish,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  sweet  oil,  lemon  juice,  sliced  onions, 
and  branches  of  parsley;  let  marinate  in  this  for  two  hours,  turning  them  over  occasionally; 
drain  them  from  the  marinade  leaving  in  the  vegetables,  and  dip  the  fillets  into  beaten  egg,  then 
into  bread-crumbs;  plunge  them  in  hot  frying  fat,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color,  drain,  salt,  and  dress 
them  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  with  fried  parsley.  Serve  a  castillane  sauce  (No.  443)  in  a 
separate  sauce-boat 

(1135).  CODFISH  (Morue  ou  Cabillaud). 

The  cod  is  a  species  of  sea  fish  of  the  Gadus  family,  caught  principally  on  the  banks  of  New 
foundland.     Salt  or  dry  codfish  keeps  a  very  long  time  without  deteriorating. 


FIG.  288. 


The  meat  is  not  the  only  part  used  for  the  table,  as  the  tongue  either  fresh  or  salted,  is  con' 
sidered  a  very  delicate  morsel. 

(1136).  FEESH  CODFISH,  A  LA  DUXELLE,  BAKED  (Morue  Fraiche  ou  Cabillaud  alaDuxelle  au 

Gratin). 

Fill  the  empty  gill  holes  and  the  inside  of  the  belly  with  a  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90),  into  which 
has  been  mixed  a  quarter  of  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  season  the  fish  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  up  shallots,  and  moisten  lightly  with  Madeira  wine;  cover  over  with  an 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  dredge  bread-raspings  on  top,  and  pour  melted  butter  over  all,  then  place 
the  fish  in  a  moderate  oven  to  brown,  and  ccok  for  about  forty-five  minutes  according  to  its  size. 
When  the  fish  is  thoroughly  done,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  bestrew  the  surface  with 
chopped  parsley. 


436  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1137).  FKESH  CODFISH,  NORWEGIAN  STYLE  (Morue  Praiche  a  la  Norve"gienne), 

Raise  the  fillets  from  a  very  fresh  codfish;  cut  and  pare  them  into  half  heart-shaped  pieces,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  shallots.  Lay  them  in  a  straight  row  on  a 
baking  dish  with  their  seasoning,  sprinkle  liberally  with  bread-crumbs,  and  on  top  a  little  parmesan 
cheese,  pour  over  melted  butter,  and  cook  the  fish  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of 
white  wine  sauce  (No.  445),  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  and  cream,  and  finished  with  a  little  nutmeg. 

1138).  PEESH  CODFISH,   BROILED  WITH  BACON  OR  HAM  (Morue  Fraiche    Grille's  au  Petit 

Sale"  ou  Jambon), 

Cut  the  codfish  into  transversal  slices;  season  each  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  saturate  with  oil, 
then  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire;  dress  the  pieces  on  a  very  hot  dish,  garnish  around  with  thin 
slices  of  broiled  ham  or  bacon,  and  sprinkle  over  butter  mixed  with  fine  herbs,  lemon  juice,  capers, 
and  finely  chopped  pickled  gherkins. 

(1139).  FRESH  COD'S  HEAD,  EGG  SAUCE  (Tete  de  Morue  Fraiche  Sauce  aux  (Eufs), 
After  cleaning,  washing,  and  tying  the  head  of  a  codfish  weighing  about  ten  pounds,  place  it 
in  a  fish  kettle,  and  cover  with  salted  water;  add  parsley  branches,  sliced  onions,  whole  peppers 
and  vinegar,  boil  and  leave  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  for  half  an  hour,  keeping  it  near  the  boiling 
point.  When  the  fish  is  done,  dress  it  on  a  long  dish  covered  with  a  napkin,  and  garnish  the 
ends  with  parsley  leaves,  laying  boiled  potatoes  pared  olive-shaped  on  each  side.  Serve  a  separate 
sauceboat  of  egg  sauce  (No.  462). 

(1140).  FRESH  CODFISH,  SLICES  A  LA  HOLLANDAISE  (Morue  Fraiche  Tranches  a  la  Hollandaise.) 

Have  some  slices  of  codfish,  cook  them  by  throwing  over  them  some  very  salty  boiling  water 
and  keeping  it  near  the  boiling  point  for  half  an  hour;  when  done,  drain  and  dress  in  the  center 


FIG.  289.  FIG.  290. 

of  a  dish  over  a  folded  napkin,  surrounding  the  fish  with  branches  of  parsley.  Serve  separately 
small  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  balls  of  potatoes,  cooked  in  salted  water,  drained 
and  laid  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  sufficient  melted  butter  poured  over  to  cover. 

(1141).  FRESH  COD'S  TONGUES  WITH  BLACK  BUTTER  OR   CHOPPED  SAUCE  (Langnes  de 
Morue  Praiche  au  Beurre  noir  ou  a  la  Sauce  Hach6e). 

Pour  two  quarts  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  let  boil,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  carrots,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  onions,  both  finely  minced,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  two  gills  of  vinegar. 
Let  the  whole  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  throw  in  the  cods'  tongues;  cover  the  saucepan;  at 
the  first  boil  remove  it  from  the  hot  fire  to  keep  the  liquid  at  the  same  heat,  but  without  boiling 
for  fifteen  minutes;  then  remove  and  drain  the  tongues,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry  all  the  moist- 
ure, and  dress  them  on  a  very  hot  dish;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley,  then 
pour  over  a  liberal  quantity  of  black  butter  passed  through  a  fine  sieve;  set  the  dish  for  a  few 
moments  in  the  oven  before  serving.  Instead  of  black  butter  a  chopped  sauce  (No.  539)  can  be 
substituted. 

(1142).  SALT  CODFISH,  SPANISH  STYLE  (Morue  Salee  a  1'Espagnole). 
Cut  pieces  of  salt  codfish  two  inches  long  by  one  wide;  soak  them  for  eighteen  hours,  changing 
the  water  three  times.  Fry  in  one  gill  of  oil  to  a  golden  color,  three  cloves  of  garlic,  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions;  drain  off  the  oil,  and  add  two  bay  leaves,  thyme,  whole  pepper, 
two  gills  of  vinegar  and  one  gill  of  water,  also  some  sweet  Spanish  peppers,  the  codfish  and  half  a 
bottle  of  white  wine;  have  this  remain  near  the  boiling  point  until  thoroughly  cooked,  pass  the 
stock  through  a  sieve,  put  it  back  with  the  codfish,  season  to  taste  with  nutmeg  and  pepper,  then 
thicken  with  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  water  and  well  pressed  out.  Have  prepared  small  stuffed 
tomatoes  and  round,  hollow  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  oil;  dress  the  fish  in  the  center  of  a  dish, 
and  surround  with  the  tomatoes  placed  on  top  of  the  croutons. 


FISH.  437 

(1143).  SALT  CODFISH  LYONNESE  STYLE  (Morue  Sale"e  a  la  Lyonnaise)). 
Put  two  pounds  of  codfish  to  soak  for  eighteen  hours  after  paring  well  the  surface;  change  the 
water  every  six  hours,  then  place  the  fish  in  a  saucepanful  of  cold  water,  bring  to  boiling  point 
and  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  to  let  bubble  only  without  boiling  for  half  an  hour,  then  drain  it 
off.  Mince  finely  half  a  pound  of  white  onions;  fry  them  slowly  in  four  ounces  of  butter  and  half 
a  gill  of  olive  oil  on  a  very  slack  fire  so  that  the  onions  cook  while  acquiring  a  golden  color; 
add  to  it  the  well  drained  and  shredded  fish  removing  all  the  bones  and  skin,  toss  the  whole  for  ten 
minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  adding  at  the  last  moment  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  crushed  and  chopped 
clove  of  garlic,  also  a  spoonful  of  mustard  and  a  dash  of  vinegar.  Dress  and  surround  with  boiled 
potatoes  cut  in  slices  and  fried  in  butter. 

(1144).  SALT  CODFISH  A  LA  VILLAGEOBE-BAKED  (Home  Sal&  au  Gratin  a  la  Villageoise). 
Cut  and  pare  the  codfish  into  two  inch  square  pieces,  soak  them  for  eighteen  hours,  then  lay 
them  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  enough  water  to  bathe  them;  heat  the  liquid  without  boiling 
and  keep  it  in  this  state  for  half  an  hour,  drain  and  remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  the  fish,  shred 
it  well  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan  to  pound  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  mashed  to  a  paste  dilute 
with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  reduced  and  thickened;  season  to  taste;  add  two 
ounces  of  butter  divided  into  small  parts  and  the  third  of  its  quantity  of  chopped  potatoes;  finish 
with  cream.  Season  the  preparation  nicely,  adding  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  then  pour  it  all 
into  a  pie  dish,  smooth  the  surface  and  dust  over  with  grated  parmesan;  sprinkle  with  melted 
butter  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(1145).  CODFISH  CAKES  AND  BALLS  (Morue  Sale's  en  Galettes  et  en  Boulettes). 

Pare  well  the  salt  codfish  and  put  it  to  soak;  shred  it  while  raw  and  set  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  the  same  quantity  of  raw  potatoes  and  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover,  let  boil  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  potatoes  are  done,  then  drain  off  the  water  and  cover  with  a 
damp  towel,  set  them  in  the  oven  a  few  moments  to  dry.  Pound  the  whole  in  a  mortar,  adding 
pepper  and  butter,  and  when  the  preparation  is  reduced  to  a  pulp,  form  it  into  two-inch  diameter 
cakes,  roll  them  in  flour  and  flatten  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  fry  these  in  clarified 
butter,  dress  on  napkins  or  else  on  a  very  hot  dish. 

For  the  Codfish  Balls  use  the  same  preparation,  making  balls  of  it  one  inch  in  diameter; 
dip  in  milk,  roll  in  flour,  fry  them  in  very  hot  fat. 

(1146).  BRANDADE  OF  SALT  COD  (Brandade  de  Morue  Salfe), 

Soak  salt  codfish  for  fourteen  hours,  changing  the  water  several  times,  put  it  on  to  cook  in  cold 
water,  set  it  on  one  side  at  the  first  boil  and  let  it  bubble  for  twenty-five  minutes,  then  shred  half 
a  pound  of  this  fish.  Fry  in  oil  two  tablepoonfuls  of  chopped  onion  and  one  clove  of  garlic,  let 
attain  a  good  golden  color,  then  put  in  the  codfish  to  warm;  pound  and  convert  it  into  a  paste, 
working  it  well  with  a  whip,  and  then  incorporate  into  it  slowly  one  pint  of  oil,  a  little  well  thick- 
ened bechamel  (No.  409),  some  double  raw  cream,  pepper,  nutmeg,  salt  if  found  necessary,  and 
chopped  parsley;  dress  it  pyramid  form  and  garnish  around  with  oyster  patties  (No.  939),  oysters 
a  la  villeroi  (No.  698)  and  trussed  crawfish.  Serve  separately  a  hot  bearnaise  mayonnaise  sauce 
(No.  433). 

(1147).  SALT  CODFISH,  FAEADAY  OEOWNS  (Morue  Satee,  Couronnes  a  la  Faraday), 
Soak  some  salt  codfish  cut  in  two  inch  squares  and  well  pared,  for  twelve  hours;  six  hours  in 
cold  water,  and  six  in  tepid  water;  change  this  and  put  the  fish  into  a  saucepan  containing  fresh 
cold  water.  Let  the  liquid  reach  boiling  point,  then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  without  allow- 
ing it  to  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes;  take  out  the  codfish,  refresh  and  suppress  the  skin,  shred  and 
return  it  to  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  amount  of  potatoes  prepared  for  duchess  (No.  2785),  and 
mixed  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  until  reduced  and  consistent,  then  add  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper.  Divide  this  preparation  into  parts  the  size  of  an  egg,  roll  them  into  balls  on  a  floured 
table,  and  mold  in  Savarin  crown-shaped  molds;  unmold  and  draw  them  out  to  an  oval  form  and 
fill  the  insides  with  a  little  of  the  same  preparation,  so  as  to  fill  up  half  the  empty  space,  then  fry 
in  clarified  butter.  Serve  with  a  poached  egg  in  the  center  of  each.  Broil  some  thin  slices  of 
bacon,  cut  them  into  inch  and  a  half  lengths  and  with  these  surround  the  crowns. 


438  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1148).  PICKED  UP  CODPISH  WITH  GEE  AM  (Morue  Sale's  a  la  Crime). 
Shred  the  codfish  while  raw,  suppressing  all  skin  and  bone;  wash  it  several  times  in  cold 
water  until  properly  unsalted,  then  blanch  in  an  abundance  of  water;  drain,  and  put  the  fish  into 
a  sautoir  covering  it  with  cream  and  let  boil  until  sufficiently  reduced  thicken  with  some  bechamel 
(No.  409);  season  with  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  nutmeg.  It  can  either  be  thickened 
with  the  bechamel  or  else  reduce  the  cream  until  of  a  correct  consistency.  Serve  in  a  deep  dish. 

(1149).  EELS  A  LA  MAEECHALE  (Anguilles  a  la  Marshals). 

Skin  an  eel  as  described  in  No.  57,  suppress  the  second  blueish  skin  by  first  laying  the  eel 
over  a  bright  charcoal  fire,  then  hold  the  head  in  one  hand  in  a  cloth,  and  with  another  cloth  in 
the  other  hand,  pull  off  the  skin  all  at  once;  shave  the  spinal  bone  and  ventrals  with  a  very  keen 


FIG.  291. 

knife,  contrary  ways  from  the  bone.  Empty  out  the  insides  and  the  blood  adhering  to  the  spinal 
bone,  and  cut  the  fish  up  into  three  inch  lengths;  braise  in  a  mirepoix,  and  white  wine  stock  (No. 
419),  and  fish  stock  (No.  195).  When  the  fish  is  cooked,  drain,  and  lay  it  on  a  dish,  pouring 
the  strained  stock  over;  let  get  cold,  then  drain  off  the  pieces,  and  bread  them  English  style  (No. 
13),  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire.  Add  to  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  reduced  with  the  above  stock, 
some  minced  truffles,  olive  shaped  quenelles,  and  small  shrimps;  serve  the  eels  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
the  garnishing  separate. 

(1150).  EELS,  BKOILED  OE  FEIED,  TAETAE  SAUCE  (Anguilles  Grilles  on  Frites,  Sauce  Tartare), 

Cut  slices  of  eel  three  inches  long,  and  cook  them  in  white  wine  mirepoix  (No.  419),  and  fish 
stock  (No.  195).  When  done,  range  the  pieces  in  a  tureen,  and  pour  their  stock  over,  strained 
through  a  sieve;  let  them  cool  off,  then  drain  and  dip  each  piece  in  melted  butter,  roll  them  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire;  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish,  or  else  bread  the  eels  by 
dipping  in  eggs  and  rolling  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  this  nicely,  and  fry  in  plenty  of  hot  fat; 
drain,  dress  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  decorate  the  top  with  fried  parsley;  serve  separately  a  plain 
tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(1151).  EELS,  PEIED  WITH  BUTTEE  AND  FINE  HEEBS  (Anguilles  Frites  an  Beurre  et  aux 

Fines   Herbs). 

Having  cleaned  some  small  eels,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry 
slowly  in  butter;  when  done,  dress  and  pour  over  the  butter  in  which  they  were  cooked.  Bestrew 
over  with  finely  cut-up  chives  and  chopped  parsley,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  sur- 
round with  a  border  of  very  thin  slices  of  lemon,  laying  a  bunch  of  parsley  on  top. 

(1152).  FLOUNDEES  (Plies  Carrelets  ou  Limandes), 

A  fish  of  the  genus  Platessa,  allied  to  the  halibut.  Both  eyes  are  on  the  side  of  the  head,  cor- 
responding to  the  dorsal  sides  of  the  fish;  its  body  is  covered  with  small,  almost  imperceptible 
scales;  its  meat  is  very  delicate  and  delicious  if  they  be  caught  on  a  sandy  bottom. 

(1153).  FLOUNDEES  A  LA  DIEPPOISE  (Plies  Carrelets  ou  Limandes  a  la  Dieppoise). 
Season  and  fold  in  two  the  fillets  removed  from  the  flounders;  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir, 
laying  on  each  one  a  small  piece  of  butter;  garnish  the  pointed  ones  with  a  crawfish  claw,  removing 
the  small  claw  tip,  and  put  them  to  cook  in  a  slack  oven,  basting  frequently  until  done.     Squeeze 


FISH.  439 

the  juice  of  a  lemon  into  a  buttered  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  range  the  fish  crown-shaped  on  a 
dish  and  fill  up  the  middle  either  with  oysters  or  mussels  after  cutting  off  the  feet,  also  small 
channeled  mushroom  heads  (No.  118);  strain  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  whole. 

(1154).  FLOUNDEKS  A  LA  GENLIS  (Plies  Oarrelets  ou  Limandes  a  la  Genlis.) 

Remove  the  fillets  from  the  flounders;  pare  them  neatly,  season  and  cover  one  side  (the  skin  side) 
with  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76),  fold  them  in  two.  Butter  a  baking  dish,  throw  chopped  mushrooms 
on  the  bottom  and  besprinkle  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  white  wine;  lay  the  fillets  on  top  and  on  each 
one  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  fish  stock  (No.  195).  Set  the  dish  into  a  slack  oven  and 
when  cooked,  remove  and  drain  off  the  liquid;  strain  and  reduce  it  with  a  bechamel  sauce  (No. 
409),  cover  the  fillets  with  this,  dredge  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  pour  over  a  little 
melted  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

(1155).  FLOUNDEKS  A  LA  JOINVILLE  (Plies  Oarrelets  ou  Limandes  k  la  Joinville). 

Remove  the  fillets  and  the  skin  on  one  side;  flatten  with  the  handle  of  a  knife  and  season;  cover 
this  side  with  a  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76)  with  raw  fine  herbs,  and  fold  in  two;  pare  and  range  in 
a  buttered  sautoir  and  stick  into  each  tip  a  crawfish  claw  without  the  smallest  end  claw;  pour 
over  some  white  wine  and  a  small  bit  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each  fillet;  cook  in  a  slack  oven,  being 
careful  to  baste  several  times  while  cooking,  and  as  soon  as  the  fish  is  done,  drain  them  off,  dress  in  a 
circle  and  reduce  the  liquid,  adding  to  it  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  thickened  with  shrimp  butter 
(No.  586).  Fill  the  center  of  the  circle  made  of  the  fish  with  a  salpicon  of  shrimp  tails  and  truffles 
cut  in  dice;  cover  the  whole  (except  the  crawfish  claws)  with  the  sauce  and  garnish  each  claw  with 
a  paper  frill,  then  serve. 

(1156).  FLOUNDEKS  A  LA  JULES  JANIN  (Plies  Oarrelets  ou  Limandes  k  la  Jules  Janin). 

Remove  the  fillets  from  the  flounders,  from  these  remove  the  black  skin,  season,  cover  with  a 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  pare,  and  fold  them  in  two;  lay  these  fillets  on  a  buttered  dish, 
moisten  with  white  wine,  pour  over  some  butter,  and  set  the  dish  in  the  oven.  When  they  are  done 
drain  them  into  a  sautoir,  straining  the  liquid;  reduce  this  with  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and 
Madeira;  garnish  the  fish  ranged  in  a  circle  with  oysters,  sliced  truffles,  and  crawfish  tails.  Butter 
the  sauce,  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  and  pour  it  over  the  whole. 

(1157).  FLOUNDEKS  A  LA  MADELEINE  (Plies  Oarrelets  ou  Limandes  a  la  Madeleine). 

Remove  the  fillets  and  skin  from  the  fish;  season  and  cover  the  side  the  skin  was  taken  from, 
with  a  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  mixed  in  it;  roll  them  up 
cork-shaped,  and  set  them  in  buttered  tin  paupiette  rings;  place  these  on  sheets  of  buttered  paper, 
then  in  a  sautoir,  moisten  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and  cook  in  the  oven  until  properly  done, 
then  unmold  and  dip  each  one  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs;  fry  a  fine  color  and  dress  on 
napkins  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top.  The  sauce  to  accompany  these  is  made  with  one 
shallot,  a  medium  sized  onion,  as  much  celery  root  and  carrots,  all  cut  up  into  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares;  blanch  the  carrots  and  celery  in  salted  water,  then  set  them  into  a  little  white  broth  to 
let  fall  to  a  glaze;  fry  lightly  the  shallots  and  onions,  add  to  them  the  carrots  and  celery,  and 
moisten  with  broth,  throw  in  a  little  sugar,  then  cook  in  such  a  way  that  the  vegetables  are  done 
when  the  liquid  is  entirely  reduced.  Moisten  again  with  cream,  reduce  once  more,  thicken  with 
egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  add  a  little  powdered  sweet  pepper,  and  serve. 

(1158),  FLOUNDEKS,  PKOVENQAL  STYLE  (Plies  Carrelets  ou  Limandes  a  la  Provenpale). 
First  lift  off  the  fillets  from  the  flounders,  and  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
beat  to  flatten  with  the  handle  of  a  knife,  then  fold  in  two;  trim  the  pointed  edge  of  each  with  a 
crawfish  claw,  after  removing  the  movable  small  end  attached  to  it:  range  the  fillets  in  a  buttered 
sautoir,  moisten  with  mushroom  liquor  and  white  wine,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  cover 
over  with  buttered  paper,  and  leave  to  cook.  Reduce  some  provengale  sauce  (No.  529),  prepared 
with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  the  fish  stock,  and  when  well  reduced  incorporate  in  a  small 
piece  of  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581).  Dress  the  fillets  either  in  a  circle  or  a  straight  row,  and 
cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  prepared  sauce.  Decorate  every  one  of  the  claws  with  a  fancy 
frill,  and  serve  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately.  The  fish  can  be  surrounded  by  smal! 
stuffed  halved  tomatoes  (No.  2835). 


440  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1159).  FEOSTFISH  OE  WHITING,  CHEEBOUEG  STYLE  (Tacaud  ou  Merlan  a  la  Mode  de  Cherbourg). 
Have  a  medium  sized  frostfish  or  whiting;  butter  a  sautoir,  sprinkle  it  over  with  chopped 
up  mushrooms,  and  lay  the  fish  on  top  with  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  oyster 
liquor,  cover  and  boil;  when  the  fish  is  cooked  drain  off  the  stock  and  reduce.  Dress  the  fish  in 
the  center  of  a  hot  dish  and  when  the  stock  is  reduced  to  half,  thicken  it  with  kneaded  butter 
(No.  579);  strain  through  a  tammy,  and  surround  the  fish  with  blanched  oysters,  pouring  the 
sauce  over  all.  Put  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes;  when  ready  to  serve,  sprinkle  over  chopped 
parsley. 

(1160).  FEOSTFISH  OK  WHITING,  PEIED  (Tacaud  ou  Merlan  Frit). 

Make  a  slight  incision  on  each  side  of  the  fish;  season  with  salt  and  roll  them  briskly  in  flour; 
plunge  them  in  small  quantities  into  hot  frying  fat  and  let  acquire  a  color  while  cooking.  The  smaller 
the  fish,  the  hotter  the  fat  must  be.  When  fried,  salt  and  dress  them  at  once.  All  fried  articles 
should  be  served  very  hot,  and  garnished  with  fried  parsley  or  simply  sliced  lemon.  The  smaller 
fish  such  as  gudgeons,  etc.,  are  dipped  in  milk  and  flour,  then  fried  on  a  hot  fire;  dress  them  in 
pyramid  form  on  a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top  and  quartered  lemon  around. 

(1161).  PEOST  FISH  OE  WHITING  BAKED  (Tacaud  ou  Merlan  Gratine"). 

Make  incisions  on  both  sides  of  the  fish  and  season.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish, 
sprinkle  over  with  finely  chopped  onions  and  mushrooms,  and  on  this  bottom  range  the  fish,  press- 
ing them  down  all  on  the  same  side;  cover  over  with  more  chopped  onions  and  mushrooms  and 
besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  over  melted  butter  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  them 
at  times.  Take  out  the  dish,  put  a  gill  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced  with  white  wine 
into  the  bottom,  return  to  the  oven  to  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer,  when  ready  to  serve  squeeze 
over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  bestrew  chopped  parsley  over  the  top  and  serve  in  the  same  dish  they 
were  cooked  in. 

(1162).  GEOUPEE  A  LA  PEANKLYN  (Grouper  a  la  Franklyn). 

A  fish  of  the  perch  family  of  the  genus  Serranus.  Raise  the  two  fillets  of  the  fish  on  each 
side  of  the  main  bone,  remove  the  skin;  cut  the  meat  up  into  bias  half  inch  slices,  paring  them 
oval  shaped;  put  into  a  vessel  to  season  with  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  sliced  onions,  lemon 
juice  and  oil;  one  hour  after  range  these  escalops  in  a  sautoir  with  their  marinade;  moisten  with 
broth  and  mushroom  liquor  and  allow  the  whole  to  cook  slowly.  When  done  strain  the  stock  and 
reduce  half  of  it  with  a  lean  financiere  sauce  (No.  464).  When  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it  a 
piece  of  fresh  butter,  reduce  the  rest  of  the  stock  to  a  glaze,  glaze  the  dressed  escalops,  using  a 
brush  for  the  purpose  after  adding  to  it  some  lobster  coral  butter  (No.  580),  pour  a  little  of  the 
sauce  around  the  fish  and  serve  the  rest  of  it  separately. 

(1163).  GUDGEONS  OE  WHITEBAIT    FEIED  IN  BUTTEE  (Goujons  ou  Blanchaille  Frits    au 

Beurre). 

After  having  cleaned,  prepared,  and  salted  the  fish,  roll  them  in  flour;  set  them  in  a  coarse 
sieve  and  sift  off  rapidly  the  superfluous  flour,  then  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  lard.  Melt  clari- 
fied butter  in  a  pan,  when  hot  lay  in  the  gudgeons  that  are  nearly  finished  frying,  or  any  other 
small  fish;  toss  them  about,  adding  small  bits  of  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley;  dress 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  the  hot  butter  over. 

(1164).  HADDOCK,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Aiglefin  a  1'Ancienne), 

Cut  the  fish  across  in  sufficiently  thick  slices  to  part  each  joint  of  the  spinal  bone;  cook  them 
in  boiling,  salted  water,  to  which  has  been  added  branches  of  parsley,  sliced  onions,  and  vinegar; 
when  the  fish  is  done,  drain,  and  remove  the  bones  and  skin,  and  lay  the  slices  on  a  buttered 
dish,  cover  over  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  containing  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  besprinkle  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  grated  parmesan,  and  brown  the  surface  nicely  in  the  oven.  Serve  a  veloute" 
sauce  separately  having  it  well  buttered. 


FISH.  441 

(1165).  HADDOCK,  HOLLAND  STYLE  (Aiglefin  a  la  Mode  de  Hollande). 
Cut  slices  from  a  haddock  of  a  sufficient  thickness  to  strike  each  joint  of  the  spinal  bone; 
put  these  into  a  glazed  vessel  for  twenty-four  hours  with  some  fine  salt;  two  hours  before  serving 
lay  them  in  a  fish  kettle  and  pour  over  boiling  water;  keep  it  on  the  side  of  the  range  at  a  boiling 
degree  until  thoroughly  cooked;  dress,  and  garnish  around  with  branches  of  parsley,  and  boiled 
potatoes;  serve  separately  some  melted  butter. 

(1166).  PnrUAN  HADDIES,  BEOILED  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  AND  BAKED  WITH  CEEAM  (Aigle- 
fin Fume  Grille,  Maitre  d'Hotel  et  a  la  Crerne  au  Gratin). 

Finnan  baddies  is  haddock  slightly  salted  and  smoked;  brush  it  over  with  oil;  broil  on  a  slow 
fire;  dress  and  pour  over  a  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

Baked  with  Cream. — Put  in  a  saucepan  a  little  cream  to  which  add  a  piece  of  butter  kneaded 
with  a  little  fecula,  add  a  bay  leaf,  some  thyme,  basil,  mignonette  and  pepper.  Boil,  add  the 
haddock  and  let  cook,  when  done,  strain  the  sauce,  add  chopped  parsley  and  shredded  chives,  put 
the  finnan  haddies  in  a  buttered  dish,  cover  with  the  sauce,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  sprinkle 
with  butter  and  bake;  serve  as  soon  as  it  is  a  fine  color. 

(1167).  HALIBUT,  ADMIEAL  (Fle"tan  ou  Holibut  a  1'Amiral). 

Trim  a  chicken  halibut  weighing  about  six  pounds,  split  the  fish  through  the  dark  side, 
detach  the  fillets  and  season  the  inside;  lay  it  on  a  buttered  baking  pan,  the  white  side  uppermost; 
moisten  with  court  bouillon  stock  with  white  wine  (No.  39),  and  cover  over  with  several  sheets 


FIG.  892. 


of  buttered  paper;  cook  the  fish  in  a  slow  oven,  drain  the  stock  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze  adding 
double  its  quantity  of  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate 
lobster  butter  (No.  580)  into  this  sauce.  Dress  the  halibut  and  garnish  around  with  crawfish 
tails,  mushroom  heads  and  fanciful  cuts  of  gherkins;  cover  over  all  with  a  third  part  of  the 
sauce  and  arrange  another  garnishing  around  the  border  of  the  dish  either  of  mussels  or  oysters 
a  la  villeroi  (No.  698).  Serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1168).  HALIBUT  A  LA  OOLIGNY  (F16tan  a  la  Ooligny). 

Have  a  young  halibut  weighing  two  to  four  pounds;  detach  the  meat  from  the  bones  on  each 
side  by  making  a  gash  in  the  center  and  on  the  whole  length  of  the  dark  side  of  the  fish;  break  the 
dorsal  bone  at  a  quarter  of  its  length  on  the  head  side  and  proceed  the  same  on  the  tail  side,  so  as  to 
be  able  to  remove  half  of  the  bone  when  the  fish  is  fried.  Marinate  it  in  a  dish  for  two  hours  with 
salt,  pepper,  oil,  lemon  juice,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  then  roll  it  in  flour,  beaten  eggs  and  bread- 
crumbs; fry  the  fish  in  an  oval  pan  with  frying  fat,  not  too  hot,  increasing  the  degree  of  heat  as 
fast  as  it  cooks;  when  done  and  of  a  fine  color,  drain  and  wipe;  take  out  the  middle  bone  the  same 
as  for  soles  a  la  Colbert  (No.  1271),  and  fill  the  interior  with  lobster  coral  butter  (No.  580).  Garnish 
both  ends  with  fried  parsley  and  cut  lemons  as  explained  in  No.  113,  and  serve  at  the  same  time, 
but  separately,  a  dish  of  dressed  cucumbers  (No.  2661). 


442  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1169).  HALIBUT  A  LA  KIOHMOND  (Fletan  a  la  Richmond). 

Butter  the  inside  of  a  dish  that  can  be  placed  in  the  oven,  lay  on  it  the  halibut  fillets  after 
suppressing  the  skin, but  leaving  the  fillets  whole;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  onions  and  place  small 
pieces  of  butter  on  top;  let  cook  in  the  oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  basting  frequently,  then 
drain  off  the  liquid  and  reduce  with  an  equal  quantity  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  thickening  it  at 
the  last  moment  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  garnish  around  the  fish  with  shelled  shrimp  tails  and 
cover  over  with  half  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  separate  sauce-boat.  Range  neatly  on 
top  sliced  truffles  warmed  in  Madeira  wine  and  fish  glaze  (No.  399). 

(1170\  HALIBUT  KADGIORI  (Fletan  Kadgiori). 

Fry  in  butter,  one  ounce  of  chopped  onions  with  half  a  pound  of  rice;  heat  together  and  moisten 
with  fish  stock  (No.  195)  to  three  times  its  heighth,  then  cook  for  twenty  minutes;  afterward  pour  it 
into  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  rounded  on  the  top.  Cut  a  young  chicken  halibut  into  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  square  pieces,  having  about  two  pounds  in  all;  fry  these  in  butter  in  a  frying  pan 
with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  add  to  it  three  chopped  up  hard  boiled  eggs,  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce 
(No.  415),  and  two  ounces  of  butter;  mix  well,  and  dress  this  fish  inside  the  unmolded  rice  border, 
besprinkling  the  rice  with  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567). 

(1171).  HALIBUT,  WITH  FINE  HERBS  A  LA  REYNAL  (F16tan  aux  Fines  Herbes  a  la  Eeynal). 

Dress  a  halibut  by  cutting  off  the  fins  and  scraping  the  scales  from  the  dark  side;  split  it 
lengthwise  in  two  on  this  side,  and  lay  the  fish  on  a  small  oval  baking-pan  with  raised  edges  or  on 
oval  silver  dishes;  moisten  it  to  its  heighth  with  wine  court  bouillon  (No.  39),  and  cover  over  with 
buttered  paper;  let  the  liquid  boil  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  then  remove  from  the  hot  fire  and 
put  it  in  the  oven  for  thirty  minutes  longer;  drain  the  fish,  and  let  it  dry  thoroughly;  dress  it 
on  a  dish,  keeping  it  hot,  covered  over  with  another  plate.  Strain  and  skim  the  liquid;  reduce 
half  of  it  to  a  half-glaze.  Fry  in  butter  two  chopped  shallots,  and  four  ounces  of  mushrooms 
also  chopped,  thicken  with  two  spoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  dilute  this  sauce  with  the 
reduced  liquid,  and  let  cook  for  five  minutes,  then  set  it  on  one  side  to  cook  slowly,  finish  with 
butter,  adding  chopped  parsley,  and  lemon  juice.  Wipe  off  all  the  humidity  from  the  halibut,  and 
cover  it  with  the  sauce;  lay  on  top  of  the  fish  a  straight  row  of  very  white  cooked  mushrooms. 

(1172).  CHICKEN  HALIBUT  BAKED  AND  WITH   PARMESAN  (Jeune  Fle"tan  an  Gratin  et  au 

Parmesan). 

Boil  some  slices  of  halibut  in  a  court  bouillon  (No.  38);  lay  in  a  baking  dish  a  border  of  potato 
croquette  preparation  (No. 2782),  either  hard  and  shaped  with  the  hand  and  channeled,  or  else  soft 
and  pushed  through  a  pocket.  Have  a  layer  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  then 
one  of  the  shredded  fish,  another  layer  of  bechamel,  and  one  more  of  the  fish,  finishing  with  the 
bechamel;  sprinkle  over  with  bread-crumbs,  and  grated  parmesan,  pour  over  a  little  butter,  and 
brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

With  Parmesan. — Prepare  the  same  and  make  a  solid  paste  by  mixing  together  butter  and 
parmesan  cheese  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  work  it  well  and  roll  it  out  to  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness;  cover  the  last  layer  of  bechamel  with  this,  and  brown  nicely  in  the  hot  oven. 

(1173).  CHICKEN  HALIBUT  WITH  CARROT  SAUCE  (Jenne  F16tan  a  la  sance  aux  Garottes). 

Cut  a  well-cleaned  eight  pound  chicken  halibut  in  two  lengthwise,  and  cut  each  part 
up  into  eight  ounce  pieces;  place  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  drain  and  cook  in  water 
containing  a  quarter  of  the  same  quantity  of  milk;  season  with  salt,  and  remove  it  from  the  hot 
fire  at  the  first  boil,  leaving  it  to  simmer  without  boiling,  for  fifteen  minutes.  Dress  on  a 
folded  napkin  and  surround  with  very  green  parsley  leaves.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  separate 
sauce-boat  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  mixing  in  with  it  grated  red  carrot  previously  cooked  in 
butter. 

(1174).  HERRINGS,  FRESH,  A  LA  CALAISIENNE  (Harengs  Frais  a  la  Calaisienne). 
A  sea  fish  of  the  genus  Clupea.  Split  as  many  herrings  as  needed  through  the  entire  back, 
and  take  out  the  middle  bone.  Stir  into  some  fresh  butter,  salt,  parsley,  chopped  up  mushrooms, 
and  lemon  juice;  stuff  all  the  herrings  with  this  butter,  and  lay  the  milts  with  the  eggs  already 
fried  in  the  center;  close  up  the  herrings,  and  wrap  them  in  a  double  sheet  of  paper;  broil  them 
over  a  slow  fire,  unwrap  and  serve  very  hot. 


FISH.  443 

(1175).  HERRINGS,  PRESH,  MUSTAED  OR  THICKENED  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE  (Harengs 

Prais,  Sauce  Moutarde  on  Maitre  d'Hotel  Lie"e). 

Choose  very  full  herrings,  clip  off  the  fins,  cut  incisions  on  the  backs,  and  lay  the  fish  on  a 
dish;  season,  sprinkle  with  oil,  then  range  them  on  a  hot  broiler,  and  broil  them  over  a  good 
fire,  turning  them  round;  eight  or  ten  minutes  suffices  to  cook  them.  Dress  them  on  a  dish,  and 
serve  a  mustard  sauce  separately,  prepared  as  follows:  Put  some  lean  veloute  (No.  416)  into  a 
saucepan,  season  well,  and  butter  profusely;  into  this  mix  a  quarter  as  much  common  mustard. 
Pour  the  sauce  into  a  sauce-boat  and  serve  with  the  herrings,  or  else  serve  a  thickened  maitre 
d'hotel  sauce  (No.  493). 

(1176).  HERRINGS,  PRESH,  PAUPIETTES  WITH  MILTS  (Harengs  Prais,  Paupiettes  aux  Laitances). 
Suppress  the  skin,  head,  and  thin  tail  parts  of  the  herrings;  open  them  to  remove  the  main 
back  bone,  then  remove  the  two  fillets  and  pare  them  oblong;  cover  the  side  the  skin  was  taken  from 
with  a  layer  of  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  roll  them  into 
cork-shaped  pieces;  range  these  in  buttered  tin  rings  any  size  that  may  be  convenient,  having  them 
the  shape  of  a  bung;  set  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  little  butter  and  court  bouillon  (No.  38), 
and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  When  done  dress  them  in  the  center 
of  a  dish  and  surround  with  small  cases  of  milts  prepared  as  follows:  Fry  a  shallot  in  butter  with 
chopped  parsley  and  fresh  mushrooms  likewise  chopped;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice; 
let  g^t  cold,  then  mix  in  with  these  the  same  quantity  of  fish  forcemeat  (No.  90).  Cover  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  some  previously  oiled  paper  cases  stiffened  in  the  oven,  fill  the  centers  with 
herring  milts,  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  preparation;  on  each  one  place  a  channeled 
inushroom  head  (No.  118),  and  then  cook  in  a  slow  oven;  cover  the  paupiettes  with  crawfish  butter 
sauce  (No.  573),  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same. 

(1177).  HERRINGS,  SALT,  WITH  MASHED  POTATOES  (Harengs  Sale's  a  la  Purge  de  Pommes  de 

Terre). 

Soak  the  herrings  in  cold  water  for  six  hours,  changing  the  water  frequently;  split  them  in  two 
the  whole  length  of  the  back,  and  unsalt  them  in  milk  for  two  hours;  drain,  wipe  dry,  and  fry 
them  in  fresh  butter;  dress  on  a  dish  over  potatoes  mashed  with  cream  (No.  2798). 

(1178).  HERRINGS— SMOKED  AND  SALTED- WITH  CREAM  (Harengs  Fume's  a  la  Creme). 
Split  the  smoked  herrings  in  two  the  entire  length  of  the  back;  close  them  up  and  lay  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  half  milk  and  half  cream,  just  sufficient  to  cover;  boil  them  slowly  until  thoroughly 
done,  then  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish  with  branches  of  green  parsley  around,  and  send  to  the  table 
with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  cold,  thick  cream. 

(1179).  KINGPISH  A  LA  BATELIERE  (Kingfish  a  la  Bateliere). 

Cut  a  half  pound  kingfish  crosswise  into  two  pieces;  range  them  in  a  low  saucepan  moistening 
with  red  wine;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  cloves,  garlic,  mushroom  parings,  and  add  one  gill  of 


FIG.  293. 


brandy,  pouring  it  slowly  over  the  other  ingredients,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  throw  in  some  small  onions 
fried  and  previously  blanched;  leave  them  in  for  ten  minutes  on  a  hot  fire.     Dress  the  fish  and 
garnish  the  intersections  with  the  small  onions,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  add  to  it  butter, 
and  pour  it  over  all;  surround  with  heart-shaped  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter  and  crawfish. 
Some  kingfish  weigh  as  much  as  three  pounds. 


444  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1180).  KINGFISH  A  LA  BELLA  (Kingfish  a  la  Bella). 

Lift  off  the  fillets  of  a  kingfish;  remove  the  skin  and  pare  the  pieces  into  half  hearts;  season 
and  cover  each  one  with  a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  decorate  the  top  with  a  circle  made  of  very 
green  halved  pistachio  nuts,  laying  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118)  in  the  center;  dust  over  the 
remainder  of  the  forcemeat  with  finely  chopped  coral.  Place  the  fillets  in  a  buttered  sautoir, 
moisten  with  a  little  court  bouillon,  and  lay  a  heavy  piece  of  buttered  paper  on  top;  cook  them  in  a 
slow  oven,  and  then  dress  them  with  a  ravigote  sauce  (No.  531),  sending  more  of  the  sauce  in  a 
separate  sauce-boat. 

(1181),  KINGPISH  A  LA  BOEDELAISE  (Kingfish  a  la  Bordelaise). 

Kaise  the  fillets  from  each  side  of  the  large  inside  bone;  remove  the  skin,  pare  nicely  and  season. 
Bestrew  a  buttered  baking  dish  with  chopped  up  raw  shallots,  mushrooms  and  a  little  garlic;  fold 
the  fillets  over  and  trim  them  pointed  on  one  end;  lay  them  in  the  dish  and  moisten  with  wine 
court- bouillon  (No.  39),  let  cook  slowly  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  then  drain,  strain 
off  the  liquid,  skin  off  the  fat  and  reduce  to  a  half-glaze,  incorporating  into  it  two  gills  of  reduced 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  mushroon  broth.  Dress  the  fish  either  in  a  straight 
row  or  a  circle  and  cover  with  the  well-reduced  sauce,  garnishing  around  with  trussed  crawfish  pre- 
pared a  la  Bordelaise  (No.  1008). 

(1182).  KINGFISH  A  LA  FIGAEO  (Kingfish  a  la  Figaro). 

Eaise  the  fillets  from  the  fish,  remove  the  skin,  pare  and  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two;  se?son 
each  piece  with  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  let  marinate  for  one  hour  then  dip  them  in  beaten 
eggs,  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color.  Dress  on  a  napkin  and  garnish  the  top  with  fried 
parsley  and  around  with  lemon.  Serve  separately  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606)  with  tomato  puree 
(No.  730)  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve  and  thoroughly  drained,  then  add  to  it  very  finely  cut 
up  chervil. 

(1183).  KINGPISH  A  LA  MONTGOLFIEE  (Kingfish  a  la  Montgolfier). 

Have  six  fine  kingfish  weighing  half  a  pound  each;  lift  off  the  fillets,  skin,  and  from  two  fillets 
cut  ten  long  small  slices;  make  five  or  six  incisions  crosswise  on  them,  and  fill  them  in  with  slices 
of  truffles;  turn  these  fillets  round  into  crowns  and  range  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  cover 
over  with  a  heavy  piece  of  buttered  paper,  then  moisten  with  a  little  court  bouillon  (No.  38).  Pare 
the  other  fillets  of  kingfish  into  half  hearts  after  having  folded  them  in  two  across,  macerate  with 
salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice  for  half  an  hour,  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  garnished 
with  chopped  mushrooms,  shallots  and  onions;  moisten  with  white  wine  and  mushroom  liquor, 
then  cook  slowly  in  the  oven;  drain  off  the  liquid,  reduce  and  incorporate  into  it  two  gills  of 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Besprinkle  the  bottom  of  an  oval  shaped  buttered  baking  dish  with 
chopped  truffles,  lay  the  cooked  fillets  on  top,  surround  them  with  medium  sized  fresh  mushrooms 
heads  previously  peeled  and  cooked  in  a  little  water,  salt,  butter  and  lemon  juice;  pour  the  sauce 
over,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  grated  parmesan  and  melted  butter  and  color  slightly.  Place 
the  small  prepared  truffled  slices  in  the  oven  and  when  done  use  them  to  garnish  the  whole  fillets, 
ranging  between  each  one  a  trussed  crawfish. 

(1184).  KINGFISH  A  LA  FEINOELAY  (Kingfish  a  la  Frincelay), 

Pare  into  ovals  some  fillets  taken  from  a  fish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  fry  them  in  oil  and 
when  done,  dress  either  in  a  row  or  in  a  circle.  Fry  a  little  flour  in  oil  without  browning,  add 
chopped  onions,  and  one  bay  leaf,  moisten  with  good  court  bouillon  (No.  38)  to  obtain  a  rather  light 
sauce,  reduce  it  well,  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  throw  in  small  capers  and  cover  the  fish  with  this 
sprinkle. 

(1185).  KINGFISH  A  LA  SULTANA  (Kingfish  a  la  Sultane). 

Lift  off  the  fillets  and  remove  the  skin,  pare  them  to  the  shape  of  a  half  heart,  season  with 
salt  and  cover  one  side  with  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90);  range  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  the 
pointed  end  toward  the  center  of  the  pan.  On  the  round  end  place  a  crescent  made  of  the  red 
meat  found  in  the  lobster  claws  having  it  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  between  the  pointed 
end  of  the  fillet  and  the  crescent  imitate  a  rosette  with  five  halved  pistachios.  Moisten  with  a 
little  court  bouillon  (No.  38),  cover  over  with  a  buttered  paper  and  place  to  cook  in  a  slack 
oven.  When  done,  dress  them  flat  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  center  with  a  garnishing  com- 


FISH.  445 

posed  of  truffles,  mushrooms  and  escalops  of  lobster  mingled  with  some  lean  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
416)  made  with  Madeira,  reduced  properly  and  thickened;  finish  with  fresh  butter.  At  the  tip  of 
each  fillet  attach  a  fancy  favor  frill  (No.  10)  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 

(1186).  KINGFISH,  BAKED  (Kingfish  au  Gratin). 

Select  a  good  fresh  kingfish,  take  off  the  fillets,  suppressing  the  skin;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg,  then  fold  them  in  two  and  pare  nicely;  butter  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish,  bestrew 
it  with  chopped  onions  and  mushrooms;  range  the  fillets  over,  laying  a  fluted  mushroom  (No.  118) 
on  each  fillet.  Pour  over  a  cold  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  three 
or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine;  bestrew  bread-crumbs  over,  and  sprinkle  the  surface  with  a 
brush  dipped  in  melted  butter.  Set  the  dish  into  a  moderately  heated  oven,  and  let  the  fillets  cook 
for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes;  after  removing  the  dish  lay  it  on  another  to  be  sent  to  the  table. 

Another  Way. — Butter  a  baking  dish,  and  place  in  it  the  fish  folded  in  two,  nicely  pared; 
pour  over  some  white  wine,  lay  mushroom  heads  on  top,  and  mask  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  416),  into 
which  a  quarter  as  much  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  has  been  mixed.  Bestrew  the  surface  with  bread 
raspings,  pour  melted  butter  over  all,  and  bake  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven;  when  serving  press  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  on  it,  and  besprinkle  with  chopped  parsley. 

(1187).  KINGFISH  ON  THE  DISH-GASTEITE  (Kingfish  sur  le  Plat-Gastrite), 

Cut  off  the  fins  from  well  cleaned  fish,  split  them  from  head  to  tail  on  the  belly  side,  in  order 
to  take  out  the  dorsal  bone:  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  small  baking 
dish,  cover  it  over  with  chopped  mushrooms  and  onions,  and  lay  the  open  kingfish  on  top  upside 
down,  the  skin  side  underneath;  pour  half  a  gill  of  white  wine  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  be- 
sprinkle the  top  with  gastrite;  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twelve  to  fifteen  minutes.  After  taking  the  fish  from  the  fire,  slip  into  the  bottom  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  finished  with  lemon  juice. 

For  the  Gastrite. — Take  the  crumb  part  of  a  stale  loaf  of  bread,  put  it  in  a  towel  with  a  little 
flour,  close  the  towel  and  work  the  bread  so  it  will  crumble,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
mix  it  with  a  little  chopped  up  parsley  and  grated  parmesan  or  Swiss  cheese. 

(1188).  LAFAYETTE  PISH,  BEEADED  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Poisson  Lafayette  Pane"  k  1'Anglaise). 

Score  the  fish  on  both  sides  on  the  thick  fillets;  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  lightly  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  stir  into  it  six  raw  egg-yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  dip  the  fish  into 
this  mixture,  then  roll  it  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surface  nicely,  and  fry  a  fine  color  in  very 
hot  clarified  butter;  drain,  wipe  and  salt  the  fish,  then  dress  it  on  a  folded  napkin  and  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  quartered  lemons. 

(1189).  LAMPEEY  A  LA  EABELAIS  (Lamproie  a  la  Eabelais), 

Bleed  the  lamprey,  reserving  the  blood,  and  mix  it  in  with  a  little  vinegar;  cut  the  fish  into 
slices,  fry  them  in  butter  adding  chopped  onions,  salt,  sugar,  and  allspice;  dredge  over  with  a 
little  flour,  moisten  with  white  wine,  and  lay  in  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  also  small  glazed  onions;  let  cook  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes.  Dress  the  lampreya 
and  the  small  onions,  thicken  the  sauce  with  the  blood  and  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (No. 
159);  cover  the  fish  with  this  sauce,  and  surround  the  lampreys  with  fluted  mushroom  heads  (No. 
118) 'fried  in  butter,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  fine  herbs;  range  round  the  whole  very 
thin  sliced  lemon. 

(1190).  PEESH  MAOKEEEL  (Maquereau    Frais), 

Of  the  genus  Scomber,  of  the  family  of  ScomberoTds.  They  are  distinguished  by  five  small 
fins  attached  above  and  below  the  tail  (Spanish  mackerel  have  eight  of  these),  also  by  an 
elongated  head,  a  largely  opened  mouth  and  brilliant  coloring.  This  fish  is  bare  of  scales; 
its  length  attains  from  fifteen  to  twenty  inches  for  fresh  mackerel,  and  from  fifteen  to  thirty  for 
Spanish  mackerel;  the  meat  of  the  latter  is  much  whiter  and  firmer  than  the  former. 


446  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1191).  FEESH  MACKEREL,  BONNEFOY— FILLETS  (Pilets  de  Maquereau  Prais  a  la  Bonnefoy). 

Cut  off  the  head  and  thin  tail  part  of  three  or  four  fresh  and  clean  mackerel;  detach  the 
fillets,  season,  roll  in  flour  and  cook  them  in  clarified  butter,  turning  them  when  done  over 
on  one  side.  Put  into  a  small  saucepan  one  gill  of  melted  glaze  (No.  399)  and  four  to  five  spoonfuls  of 
thickened  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  shallot  cooked  in  butter;  let  the  sauce 
boil,  then  remove  it  to  one  side  to  finish  with  butter,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Drain  the 
fillets,  dress  them  on  a  dish  and  cover  with  the  sauce;  serve  at  the  same  time  small  potato  balls 
plainly  cooked  in  salted  water  and  steamed  for  five  or  six  minutes. 

(1192).  PEESH  MAOKEEEL  IN  PAPEES,  MEPHISTO  (Maquereau  Frais  en  Papillotes,  Mephisto). 
Split  the  mackerel  lengthwise  in  two;  suppress  the  middle  bone,  pare,  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  then  coat  the  surface  with  oil  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  (the  milts  and  roe  to  be 
cooked  apart  in  the  oven).  Cut  some  sheets  of  paper  into  long  hearts,  oil  them  over  and  lay  on  one 
of  their  sides  a  little  deviled  sauce  (No.  459),  on  top  range  the  fish  with  either  the  milts  or  roe  and 
cover  over  with  more  of  the  sauce;  fold  the  paper  over  and  twist  it  well  around  so  as  to  enclose 
the  fish  hermetically;  range  them  on  the  same  dish  intended  for  the  table,  pour  over  a  little  oil 
and  lay  them  in  a  hot  oven.  When  the  paper  has  swollen  and  is  a  fine  color,  place  the  dish  on 
top  of  another  and  serve. 

(1193).  FEESH  MACKEEEL,  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  (Maquereau  Frais,  Maitre  d'Hotel). 

Split  very  fresh  and  well  cleansed  mackerel  lengthwise  through  the  back;  remove  the  dorsal 
bone,  season  with  salt,  and  roll  in  melted  butter,  or  else  in  oil;  broil  them  for  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes  on  a  slow  fire  turning  them  and  brushing  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  butter  or  oil.  Dress 
them  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581).  After  rolling 
them  in  melted  butter  or  oil,  they  may  be  dipped  in  bread-crumbs. 

(1194).  FEESH  MAOKEEEL,  WITH  WHITE  PIQUANTE  SAUCE  (Maquereau  Prais  a  la  Sauce 

Piquante  Blanche). 

Suppress  the  heads  and  the  thin  tail  parts  of  four  fresh,  well  cleansed  mackerel;  remove  the 
skins  and  pare  the  meat  into  half  hearts,  lay  these  on  a  dish,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  cut  up  onions,  oil  and  lemon  juice,  turning  them  over  at  intervals.  One  hour  later  take  the 
pieces  from  their  pickle,  dip  them  in  flour  and  cook  in  clarified  butter;  when  done  and  of  a  fine 
color,  drain  and  dress  them  either  in  a  straight  row  or  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  pour  around  a 
white  sharp  (piquante)  sauce  (No.  538). 

(1195).  MACKEEEL,  CEEAM  HOESEEADISH  SAUCE-SALT  AND  SMOKED  (Maquereau  Sal6  et 

Fum§  Sauce  a  la  Creme  au  Eaifort). 

Soak  salt  mackerel  for  twelve  hours,  changing  the  water  several  times;  cook  the  fish  in  an 
abundance  of  water  into  which  has  been  added  a  dash  of  vinegar,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  branches  of 
parsley,  and  sliced  onions;  remove  the  saucepan  at  the  first  boil,  and  leave  the  fish  in  the  water 
without  allowing  it  to  boil  any  more  for  fifteen  minutes;  drain,  dress  the  mackerel  on  a  folded 
napkin,  and  surround  with  parsley  leaves.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  cream  sauce 
(No.  454),  into  which  has  been  incorporated  half  its  quantity  of  grated  horseradish  heated  in  the 
sauce  without  boiling. 

For  Smoked  Mackerel. — Instead  of  boiling  the  fish,  broil  it  over  a  slow  fire,  and  serve  it  on  a 
horseradish  sauce  with  cream  (No.  478). 

(1196).  SPANISH  MACKEEEL  A  LA  PEEIGOED  (Maquereau  Espagnol  a  la  Perigord). 

Pare  the  fillets  removed  from  the  mackerel  into  half  heart-shapes;  lay  them  in  a  buttered 
sautoir,  decorating  the  thickest  part  of  each  fillet  with  a  rose-shaped  ornament  of  truffles  dipped 
in  egg-whites.  Baste  over  with  melted  butter,  lemon  juice,  white  wine,  and  salt;  cover  with  a 
buttered  paper,  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven.  Dress  the  fillets,  reduce  their  liquid,  adding  veloute1 
sauce  (No.  415)  and  slices  of  truffles  fried  in  butter.  Cover  the  truffles  with  a  third  part  of  this 
sauce,  and  glaze  the  fillets  with  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  combined  with  lobster  coral  butter  (No.  580). 
Serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 


FISH.  447 

(1197).  SPANISH  MAOKEEEL  A  LA  VIENNET  (Maquereau  Espagnol  a  la  Viennet). 
Chop  up  separately  some  onions,  shallots,  and  mushrooms;  fry  the  onions  and  shallots  in  butter 
then  add  the  chopped   mushrooms;  lay  on  top  mackerel   fillets  pared    half  heart-shaped;  season 


FIG.  294. 

with  salt,  mignonette,  and  nutmeg;  place  over  a  liberal  piece  of  butter,  cover  with  a  strong  but- 
tered paper,  and  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  off  the  butter,  and  add  a 
little  white  wine,  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549).  Dress  the  fish,  reduce 
the  sauce,  and  when  ready  pass  through  a  tammy  and  pour  it  over  the  fillets. 

(1198).  SPANISH  MACKEREL  WITH  CRAWFISH-FILLETS  (Filets  de  Maquereau  Espagnol  aux 

Ecrevisses). 

Lift  up  the  fillets  from  six  small  and  very  fresh  mackerel,  season  and  cover  the  surfaces  of 
the  cut  sides  with  a  layer  of  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90),  and  fine  herbs  finished  with  a  piece  of  red  butter 
(No.  573);  flatten  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  range  them  as  fast  as  they  are  done  one 
beside  the  other  on  a  well  buttered  baking  pan,  dredging  fine  herbs  on  top;  put  them  to  cook  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  basting  them  over  with  butter;  remove  and  dress  them 
on  a  dish,  cover  over  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  crawfish  broth  and 
finished  with  red  butter  (No.  573),  and  lemon-juice.  Range  a  cluster  of  crawfish  tails  at  each  end 
of  the  dish  and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1199).  SPANISH  MACKEREL  WITH  GOOSEBERRIES-STUFFED  (Maquereau  Espagnol  Farci 

Garni  de  Groseilles  Vertes). 

Split  well-cleaned  mackerel  down  the  back;  take  out  the  bone  just  below  the  head  and  two  inches 
above  the  tail;  season  the  inside  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  a  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76),  into  which 
has  been  added  some  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs, 
give  the  fish  its  original  shape,  roll  it  tightly  in  two  sheets  of  paper  and  tie  it  at  both  ends,  in  the 
center  and  once  again  between  these,  making  in  all  five  rows  of  string;  place  the  fish  on  a  baking 
pan,  set  it  in  the  oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  remove,  unwrap  and  dress,  serving  with  a 
garnishing  of  gooseberries  around  the  fish. 

For  a  Gooseberry  Garnishing  take  half  a  pound  of  gooseberries;  suppress  the  stalks  and  ends, 
then  blanch  them  for  two  minutes  in  boiling  water  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel  or  until  they 
crush  between  the  fingers,  drain  and  then  mix  them  in  a  thickened  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  (No.  493); 
pour  over  the  fish  and  garnish. 

(1200).  SPANISH  MACKEREL  WITH  GREEN  PEAS  (Maquereau  Espagnol  aux  Petits  Pois). 

Fry  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  lay  in  the  mackerel  cut  up 
into  four  ounce  slices  and  when  well  fried,  moisten  with  water,  add  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley 
and  salt  and  let  the  fish  cook;  when  ready  to  serve  add  cooked  peas  (No.  2742);  finish  by  thicken- 
ing with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  egg-yolks  and  butter.  Dress  the  fish,  pour  the  peas  over 
and  serve. 

(1201).  MATELOTE  A  LA  MARINIERE,  ST.  MANDE  (Matelote  a  la  Mariniere  St.  Manda 
Cut  into  four  ounce  slices,  one  pound  of  eels  and  one  pound  of  carp,  salt  and  marinate  for  two 
hours,  then  wash  and  dram.  Put  one  quart  of  red  wine  into  a  saucepan  sufficienty  large  to  contain 
three  quarts;  add  a  large  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  one  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme  and  one 
clove  of  garlic,  one  coffeespoonful  of  whole  allspice,  pepper  and  the  necessary  salt,  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms;  let  all  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  put  in  the  eels,  co'tk 


448  THE    EPICUREAN. 

for  ten  minutes  longer  before  adding  the  carp  and  a  pint  of  small  white  onions  blanched  for  about 
ten  minutes,  drained,  then  fried  in  butter  to  a  good  golden  color  with  a  little  sugar;  thicken  the 
whole  with  kneaded  butter  (No.  579)  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  Dress  the  fish,  cover  it  with  the 
sauce  and  garnish  around  with  fried  croutons  of  bread,  some  trussed  crawfish  and  fried  egg-yolks 
and  milts. 

(1202).  MATELOTE  A  LA  TALABASSE  (Matelote  a  la  Talabasse). 

Mince  two  ounces  of  onions,  two  ounces  of  leeks,  add  two  crushed  cloves  of  garlic;  fry 
these  in  some  good  oil,  besprinkle  with  flour  and  add  half  a  pound  of  mackerel,  half  a 
pound  of  sheepshead,  half  a  pound  of  bass  and  half  a  pound  of  blackfish,  all  cut  up  in  steaks; 
moisten  to  cover  with  white  wine  and  water,  half  of  each,  salt,  pepper,  cloves  and  a  garnished 
bunch  of  parsley;  cook  on  a  brisk  fire;  pound  one  clove  of  garlic  with  a  little  saffron  and  two  ounces 
of  butter,  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  drain  the  stock,  reduce  and  thicken  it  with  the  garlic  butter, 
adding  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  chopped  parsley;  dress  the  fish,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  garnish 
around  with  crawfish  and  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(1203).  MATELOTE  01  CANOTIERS  (Matelote  des  Canotiers). 

Cut  up  into  steaks  one  medium  carp,  a  pike  and  a  small  eel,  all  being  fresh  and  clean,  with 
the  heads  and  parings  of  the  fish,  some  roots,  aromatic  herbs  and  mushroom  parings;  prepare  a 
good  broth,  strain  and  free  it  from  fat;  put  the  slices  of  fish  in  a  saucepan  or  earthen  vessel,  with 
a  few  mushroom  heads,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  garlic,  whole  peppers  and  salt,  and 
small  fried  and  browned  onions;  moisten  to  its  height  with  the  prepared  broth,  and  let  it  boil  on  a 
brisk  fire  in  such  a  way  that  the  liquid  reduces  to  half  while  the  fish  cooks,  then  thicken  the  sauce 
moderately  with  kneaded  butter  (No  579),  boil  the  sauce  up  twice,  then  remove  it  on  one  side  to 
add  a  piece  of  butter.  Dress  the  slices  of  fish  on  flat  crusts  of  bread  browned  in  butter,  surround 
them  with  the  garnishing,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole. 

(1204).  MATELOTE  OP  CARP,  MIROIR  (Matelote  de  Carpe,  Miroir), 

Scale  the  carp,  draw  it  by  the  stomach,  tie  down  the  head  and  place  it  in  a  narrow  low- 
bordered  baking  tin,  lined  with  fat  pork,  minced  roots  and  onions,  mushroom  peelings  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley;  salt  the  fish,  moisten  it  to  half  its  height  with  white  wine  and  fish  broth,  let  it  come 
quickly  to  a  boil,  and  ten  minutes  after  cover  the  fish  over  with  a  strong  buttered  paper,  set  it  in  a 
moderate  oven,  to  finish  cooking  slowly  without  turning  it  over,  but  basting  frequently.  When 
done  remove  the  fish  from  the  pan  with  a  large  perforated  skimmer,  and  dress  it  on  a  dish, 
surround  it  with  a  garnishing  of  very  white  peeled  mushrooms  and  keep  it  warm.  Strain  the 
liquid  into  a  sautoir,  remove  the  fat  and  pour  in  a  glassful  of  red  wine;  reduce  it  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  when  very  succulent,  thicken  witK  kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  cover  the  fish  with  some  of 
the  sauce  and  serve  the  remainder  separately. 

(1205).  MATELOTE  OP  PISEERMEN  (Matelote  des  Pecheurs.) 

Clean  well  a  small  eel,  a  carp,  a  pike,  and  a  tench;  cut  them  up  into  slices  after  suppressing 
the  heads  and  thin  parts,  then  salt  them.  Cook  in  a  saucepan  some  minced  onions,  add  the  heads 
and  bones  from  the  fish,  and  two  minutes  after  moisten  with  white  wine;  put  in  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley garnished  with  garlic,  mushroom  peelings  and  salt,  then  cook  this  broth  for  twenty  minutes; 
strain,  remove  the  fat,  and  pour  it  into  a  saucepan  to  thicken  with  kneaded  butter  (No.  579); 
let  cook  for  seven  or  eight  minutes.  Wipe  well  the  pieces  of  fish,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  wider 
than  its  height,  cover  with  the  sauce,  adding  two  dozen  uncooked  mushrooms  and  let  all  boil  for 
fifteen  minutes  on  a  brisk  fire,  being  careful  to  remove  each  piece  of  fish  as  soon  as  it  is  done. 
Dress  these  pieces  on  a  deep  dish  over  thin  flat  crusts  of  bread  browned  in  butter,  surrounded 
with  the  mushrooms,  then  reduce  the  sauce  without  ceasing  to  stir;  butter  it  off  from  the  fire  and 
finish  by  adding  to  the  sauce  pieces  of  four  ounces  each,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  pour  this  over 
the  fish. 

(1206),  MULLETS  WITH  D'ANTIN  SAUCE  (Mulets  a  la  Sauce  d'Antin). 
Raise  the  fillets  from  the  mullets  and  suppress  the  skin;  cut  them  each  lengthwise  in  two  and 
season  with  salt,  mignonette,  thyme,  bay  leaf  sliced  onions,  branches  of  parsley,  tarragon, 
vinegar  and  oil;  let  marinate  for  one  hour,  turning  them  over  frequently,  then  drain  and  roll  them 
in  flour;  form  them  crescent-shaped  on  a  wire  basket  and  fry  in  hot  fat  till  a  fine  color.  Serve  in 
a  sauce-boat  a  d'Antin  Lauce  (No.  458). 


FISH.  449 

(1207).  MASKINONGE  A  LA  PEOVIDENOE  (Maskinong^  k  la  Providence). 
Stud  slices  of  the  fish  with  anchovy  fillets;  plunge  these  slices  in  boiling  water  to  which  a  little 
vinegar  has  been  added,  for  two  minutes,  take  them  out  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan;  cover  the 
entire  fish  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  with  white  wine  and  mushroom  parings,  adding  a  gar- 
nished bunch  of  parsley;  let  simmer  until  the  fish  is  cooked,  then  drain  off  the  liquid;  reduce  and 
thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  butter  and  cream;  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  and  incorporate  into  it  a 
piece  more  butter  and  chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  slices  of  fish,  covering  over  with  a  third  part 
of  the  sauce,  and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1208).  PERCH,  POLISH  STYLE  (Perche  a  la  Polonaise). 

A  species  of  bony  fish  "Thoracic,"  characterized  by  a  very  powerful  prickly  crest  placed  on  the 
back.  River  perch  have  very  white,  firm  and  fine  meat  of  an  exquisite  savor;  it  is  one  of  the  best 
fresh  water  fishes. 


FIG.  295. 

Select  medium  sized  perch,  clean  and  scale;  boil  them  in  salted  water  for  two  or  three 
minutes  until  the  skin  detaches  easily,  then  take  from  the  fire  and  carefully  lift  off  the 
skin.  Eoll  the  fish  in  beaten  eggs  into  which  has  been  mixed  a  little  melted  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  lay  them  on  a  baking  tin;  brown  in  a  hot  oven  to  finish 
cooking,  and  when  a  good  color,  serve  on  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  adding  a  little  grated 
horseradish  to  it. 

(1209).  PEEOH,  SAUCE  VALOIS-BOILED  (Perche    Bouillie    a  la  Sauce  Valois). 

Scale  and  clean  two  or  three  medium  sized  perch;  boil  sufficient  water  in  a  flat  saucepan  to 
cover  the  fish,  adding  to  it  salt,  parsley  roots  with  the  green  leaves,  minced  onions,  and  celery; 
after  this  has  boiled  for  a  few  moments,  plunge  in  the  fish,  and  let  boil  merely  for  a  few  times, 
then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  range  to  finish  cooking.  If  the  perch  be  required  hot,  serve  them 
on  a  folded  napkin  with  boiled  potatoes  on  each  side  of  the  fish  and  green  parsley  at  the  ends. 
Serve  a  Valois  and  tarragon  sauce  (No.  554)  separately. 

(1210).  PEECH,  STUPFED  AND  BAKED  (Perche  Parcie  an  Four), 

Split  the  perch  through  the  whole  length  of  the  back,  keeping  on  the  head  and  tail  bone;  sup- 
press the  large  spinal  bone  and  fins.  Season  the  inside  and  fill  the  space  with  a  fish  forcemeat 
(No.  76)  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Set  the  perch  on  a  buttered  dish,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  pour  over  white  wine  and  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  let  it  cook  for  twenty  minutes 
in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  then  drain  and  reduce  the  gravy,  mixing  it  in  with  a  Spanish  sauce 
(No.  414),  when  the  sauce  is  ready,  incorporate  into  it  some  butter,  lemon-juice  and  chopped 
parsley;  dress  the  fish  and  cover  with  the  sauce. 

(1211).  PEEOH,  WITH  PAESLEY  WATEE,  OELEEY  EOOT  AND  PAESNIPS   (Perche  a  1'Ean  de 

Persil,  de  C61eri  et  de  Panais), 

Scrape  four  ounces  of  parsley  roots,  and  the  same  quantity  of  parsnips  and  the  same  of  celery 
roots;  cut  them  up  into  very  fine  shreds.  Cook  these  separately  in  salted  water  for  twenty  minutes, 
then  drain  off  the  water.  Cook  the  perch  in  this  water,  and  when  done  and  dressed,  surround  with 
boiled  potato  balls  made  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  size  and  the  roots.  Serve  a  part  of  the  well  re- 
duced liquid  in  a  separate  sauce-boat  at  the  same  time  as  the  fish. 


450  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1212).  PICKEREL,  TOMATO  ANDALOUSE  SAUCE  (Brocheton,  Sauce  Tomate  Andalouse) 
Score  both  sides  of  the  fillets  taken  from  the  fish;  put  them  iu  a  tureen  with  salt,  pepper, 
chopped  up  onions,  parsley,  oil,  and  vinegar;  one  hour  later  drain  them  from  their  marinade, 


FIG.  296. 

roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color,  and  when  firm  dress  with  a  tomato  Andalouse  sauce 
(No.  550)  served  separately. 

(1213).  PIKE  PERCH  OR  WALL  EYED  PIKE  A  LA  DURANCE  (Sandra  a  la  Durance). 
Split  a  one-pound  pike  perch  in  two,  through  the  middle  of  the  back,  and  take  out  the  spinal 
bone  lay  this  boned  fish  on  a  buttered  dish  and  moisten  with  mushroom  stock,  and  white  wine;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  laying  small  pieces  of  butter  on  top;  let  boil  up  once,  then  place  the  dish  in 
the  oven  covered  with  another  smaller  one,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes;  drain  off  the  stock,  thicken 
it  with  a  little  butter  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  flour  (kneaded  butter).  Dress  the  fish,  strain 
the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  to  it  a  good  sized  piece  of  butter,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  fine  herbs.  Cover  over  with  a  third  part  of  the  sauce,  and  garnish  around  with 
the  following  smelt  fillets:  Place  fillets  of  smelts  on  a  table  to  season;  cover  the  cut  sides  with  a 
layer  of  raw  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76),  mixed  with  chopped  mushrooms,  fold  over  the  fillets  so  that 
the  forcemeat  is  enclosed,  then  roll  them  in  flour  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs;  plunge  a  few  at  the  time 
into  very  hot  frying  fat  to  become  a  fine  color,  while  cooking,  then  drain  and  salt.  Dress  these 
around  the  fish,  serving  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1214).  PIKE  PERCH  OR  WALL  EYED  PIKE  A  LA  FINANCIERS  (Sandra  a  la  Pinanciere). 

Braise  the  fish  whole  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  remove  the  skin,  dress  the  fish 
on  a  dish  and  glaze  with  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  and  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  mixed.  Reduce  the 
stock  and  put  it  with  a  lean  financiere  sauce  (No.  464);  strain  it  through  a  tammy,  and  finish  with 
butter.  Garnish  around  the  fish  with  fish  quenelles  (No.  90),  made  in  a  teaspoon  (No.  155),  whole 
truffles,  and  mushroom  heads;  pour  a  third  of  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a 
separate  sauce-boat. 

(1215).  PIKE  PERCH  OR  WALL  EYED  PIKE  A  LA  GERALDIN  (Sandra  a  la  Geraldin), 

Cut  the  fish  in  quarter  pound  slices,  cook  in  salted  water  into  which  vinegar  has  been  added; 
range  the  slices  on  a  long  dish  over  a  folded  napkin,  serve  separately  a  garnishing  of  lightly 
blanched  oysters,  drained,  dipped  in  eggs,  rolled  in  fresh  bread-crumbs,  and  fried  in  lard  or  oil.  The 
sauce  to  accompany  this  fish  is  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  into  which  has  been  stirred  cayenne 
pepper,  and  small  mushroom  heads. 

(1216).  PIKE  PERCH  OR  WALL  EYED  PIKE  A  LA  ROYAL  (Sandra  a  la  Royale). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  the  fish;  season,  and  fold  in  two;  trim  them  the  size  and  shape  of  medium 
chicken  fillets,  then  range  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  besprinkle  with  butter  and  white  wine,  and 
place  it  in  the  oven  covered  over  with  buttered  paper;  when  done,  reduce  some  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415),  to  which  has  been  added  the  stock;  work  up  with  butter,  and  reserve  a  third  of  this;  to  the 
other  two-thirds  add  truffles,  lobster  and  mushrooms,  all  finely  shredded;  stick  a  frill  favor  (No. 
10)  into  the  top  of  each  fillet,  dress  crown-shaped,  and  pour  the  garnishing  in  the  center,  serve  the 
reserved  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1217).  PIKE  PERCH  OR  WALL-EYED  PIKE,  RUSSIAN  STYLE  (Sandra  a  la  Russe). 
Fry  in  butter  some  minced  carrots,  small  onions  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  add  to 
these  some  fish  steaks  each  one  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  and  previously  marinated  in  salt 
for  two  hours;   moisten  with  white  wine  court  bouillon  (No.   39),  and  as  soon  as  the  fish  is 


FISH.  451 

eooked,  drain  and  dress  it.  Garnish  with  the  small  onions,  strain  the  broth  through  a  sieve,  re- 
duce, skin  and  add  to  it  some  butter  kneaded  with  flour,  strain  again  through  a  tammy,  put  in  a 
few  capers,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish  and  garnish  around  with  sippets  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(1218).  PIKE  PEEOH  OR  WALL-EYED  PIKE,  CONTINENTAL  STYLE-FILLETS  (Filets  de  San- 

dre  aii  Continental). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  four  medium  sized  fish,  flatten  and  pare  them  oval-shape  leaving 
on  the  skin,  then  season.  Range  them  in  a  sautoir  containing  hot  butter,  placing  them  on  their 
cut  sides,  then  poach  slightly,  drain  them  and  set  them  under  a  weight  to  keep  them  flat,  leaving 
the  butter  in  the  sautoir.  Cover  the  cut  side  of  the  fillets  with  a  layer  of  fish  forcemeat  (No.  90) 
finished  with  red  butter  (No.  580);  smooth  this  rounded  on  the  top  and  strew  over  finely  chopped 
lobster  coral.  Return  the  fillets  to  the  sautoir  containing  the  butter,  cover  over  with  buttered  paper 
and  finish  cooking  in  a  slow  oven;  thicken  some  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  cream,  egg- 
yolks  and  butter,  strain  it  through  a  tammy  and  add  to  it  some  oysters  and  shrimps.  Dress 
the  fillets  in  a  circle,  lay  the  oysters  and  shrimps  in  the  center,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole. 

(1219).  PIKE  WITH  HAZELNUT  BUTTER  SAUCE  (Brochet  au  Beurre  Noisette). 
Cut  in  half  pound  slices  and  marinate  for  one  hour  in  salt  a  medium  sized  scalded  and  cleaned 
pike,  drain  and  put  the  pieces  into  a  saucepan  with  water,  salt,  vinegar,  cut  up  roots  and  onions, 
also  a  bunch  of  parsley.  Put  the  saucepan  on  a  good  fire  letting  the  liquid  boil  for  five  minutes 
then  remove  it  on  one  side  to  keep  quivering  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  such  a  way  that  the  fish 
cooks  in  the  meantime.  Put  eight  ounces  of  melted  butter  in  a  saucepan,  pouring  it  off  from  its 
sediment,  heat  it  to  reach  the  degree  of  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567),  then  throw  in  an  ounce  of 
chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  fish;  surround  with  fresh  parsley  leaves  and  send  the  butter  to  the 
table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1220).  POMPANO  A  LA  ANTHELME  (Pompano  a  la  Anthelme). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  four  fresh  fish,  leaving  on  the  skin;  cut  with  a  small  vegetable  spoon, 
half  inch  diameter  balls  of  potatoes,  obtaining  a  quart  when  finished,  boil  them  in  salted  water, 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  drain,  return  them  to  the  saucepan,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  set  them 
in  a  slack  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Boil  up  a  pint  of  fresh  cream,  then  add  to  it  the  potatoes. 
Season  the  fish  fillets  with  salt,  flour  them  over  and  cook  them  in  a  frying  pan  with  clarified  butter, 
when  done  range  them  in  tne  center  of  a  dish.  Thicken  the  potatoes  with  shrimp  butter  (No. 
586)  and  dress  them  around  the  fish  besprinkling  the  whole  with  very  green  chopped  parsley. 

(1221).  POMPANO  A  LA  OARONDELET  (Pompano  a  la  Carondelet). 

Cut  four  fish  into  quarter  of  a  pound  slices,  boil  them  in  salted  water  containing  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  parsley  branches  and  vinegar;  at  the  first  boil  remove  them  from  the  hot  fire  to  let  quiver  on 
one  side  of  the  range  for  fifteen  minutes;  when  finished,  drain  and  suppress  the  skins,  keeping  the 
meat  as  whole  as  possible.  Fry  a  medium  sized  onion  in  butter,  dust  with  curry  powder  and  mois- 
ten with  court  bouillon  and  white  wine  (No.  39) ;  thicken  this  stock  with  thick  bechamel  (No.  409), 
and  reduce  it  properly;  stir  in  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  then  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy. 
Dress  the  fish;  pour  the  sauce  over  and  surround  either  with  fried  milts  or  mussels  a  lavilleroi  (No. 
698). 

(1222).  POMPANO  A  LA  DUCLAIR  (Pompano  a  la  Duclair), 

Lift  the  fillets  from  the  fish,  pare  them  into  half  hearts  and  marinate  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and 
lemon  juice;  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  containing  clarified  butter  and  cook  in  the  oven.  Mince  up  very 
finely  one  medium  raw  onion,  a  small  bit  of  garlic  and  two  ounces  of  celery  root;  fry  them  in  butter 
and  moisten  with  fish  stock  (No.  195),  adding  a  few  cloves,  let  this  cook  for  twenty  minutes, 
then  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  incorporate  into  it  some  veloute,  reduced  to  the  consistency 
of  a  sauce,  when  ready  for  serving  incorporate  therein  chopped  parsley  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 
Dress  the  fillets  either  in  a  circle  or  a  straight  row,  cover  over  with  one-half  of  the  sauce,  and  serve 
the  other  half  in  a  separate  sauce-boat 


452  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

(1223).  POMPANO  A  LA  MAOEDOINE  (Pompano  I  la  Machine). 

Have  several  fresh  fish;  lift  off  the  fillets,  suppress  the  skin  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices;  lay 
these  in  a  buttered  sautoir  one  beside  the  other,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  when 
they  are  cooked  set  them  under  a  weight  to  get  cold,  mask  over  with  a  well  reduced  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407),  into  which  has  been  stirred  some  mushroom  puree  (No.  722).  Bread-crumb  them 
English  style  (No.  13),  and  lay  each  fillet  close,  one  beside  the  other,  in  the  sautoir,  pour  over  some 
butter  and  brown  them  in  a  brisk  oven;  when  removed  dress  them  in  a  circle,  garnish  the  center 
with  a  vegetable  macedoine  (No.  2755),  thickened  with  fresh  butter  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

(1224).  POMPANO  A  LA  MAZAKIN  (Pompano  a  la  Mazarin). 

Pare  the  fillets  taken  from  the  fish,  suppress  the  skin  and  season  with  gait,  pepper  and  nutmeg; 
lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  moisten  with  white  wine  and  court  bouillon  (No.  39),  basting  them 
several  times  while  cooking;  when  done,  drain  off  the  liquid  and  reduce  it  with  the  same  quantity 
of  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  cream,  finishing  the  sauce  with  lobster 
butter  (No.  580);  strain  all  this  through  a  tammy  and  pour  it  over  the  fish;  range  round  the  latter 
pike  quenelles  (No.  90)  decorated  with  truffles  (No.  154)  and  fried  breaded  oysters  from  which  the 
heart  has  been  removed. 

(1225).  POMPANO  A  LA  POTENTINI  (Pompano  a  la  Potentini). 

Split  three  fish,  each  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half,  lengthwise  down  the  spinal  bone;  leave  the 
skin  on  the  meats,  season  with  salt,  coat  over  with  oil,  and  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs;  broil 
for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  over  when  half  done.  Dress  them  on 
a  dish,  pour  over  slightly  melted  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  thickened  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415); 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  chopped  parsley;  garnish  around  the  fish  with  sliced  fresh  cucum- 
bers, laid  in  salt  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  all  the  liquid  extracted,  then  seasoned  with  pepper, 
vinegar,  and  oil,  as  well  as  some  finely  chopped  chervil. 

(1226).  POMPANO  A  LA  SOYA  (Pompano  a  la  Soya). 

Suppress  the  heads  and  thin  tail  parts  from  three  fish  weighing  three  quarters  of  a  pound  each; 
cut  the  meat  into  steaks,  and  sprinkle  over  with  salt.  Cut  in  fine  shreds,  half  a  pound  of  leeks, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  celery,  the  same  of  carrots;  fry  them  in  butter  over  a  slow  fire  without 
coloring,  then  add  the  pieces  of  fish,  and  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  broth  and  white  wine;  season 
with  pepper,  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf.  When  the  fish  is  done,  remove  from  the  fire  and  dress. 
Lay  around  the  dish  mellow  potatoes  (No.  2799),  and  thin  slices  of  blackfish  a  la  Orly  (No. 
1114).  Serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  horseradish  and  cream  sauce  (No.  478). 

(1227).  POMPANO  A  LA  TOULOUSE  (Pompano  a  la  Toulouse). 

Split  the  fish  through  the  middle  at  both  ends  through  their  entire  length;  braise  these  in  a 
mirepoix  stock  with  white  wine  (No.  39),  and  when  the  fish  is  done,  drain  the  stock,  and  reduce  it 
•with  the  same  quantity  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  and  fresh  butter, 
and  put  it  on  the  back  of  the  fire  to  keep  it  near  the  boiling  point,  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy. 
Dress  the  fish,  garnish  around  with  mushrooms,  truffles,  fish  quenelles,  crawfish  tails,  or  else 
shrimps.  Cover  the  garnishing  with  the  sauce,  and  lay  on  top  small  breaded  smelts  fried  in  oil, 
or  these  may  be  replaced  by  gudgeons  or  thin  slices  of  perch  fillets,  place  around  a  border  of  crusts 
of  bread,  buttered  and  browned  in  the  oven. 

(1228).  POMPANO  PILLETS  FKIED  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE  (Filets  de  Pompano  Frits  a  la  Sauce 

Tomate). 

Kemove  the  fillets  from  several  fresh  fish,  also  the  skins;  cut  them  across  diagonally,  and 
lay  them  on  a  dish  to  season;  marinate  the  slices  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  sweet  oil,  lemon  juice 
and  chopped  parsley.  Take  up  the  pieces,  one  by  one,  dip  them  into  a  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and 
plunge  them  in  hot  frying  fat;  let  them  slowly  attain  a  good  color  while  cooking,  and  when  done 
drain  and  salt.  Dress  the  fillets  in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  napkin,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley 
and  cut  lemons,  or  else  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 


FISH.  453 

(1229).  POEGLES  A  LA  MANHATTAN  (Porgies  a  la  Manhattan). 

Cut  the  fish  into  quarter  of  a  pound  slices  and  boil  them  in  a  court-bouillon,  moistened 
with  white  wine  (No.  39) ;  drain  and  remove  the  skin  carefully,  then  dress  on  the  center  of  a 
hot  dish.  Dip  two  ounces  of  cracker-dust  and  as  much  bread-crumbs  into  a  little  milk;  press  out 
all  the  liquid  and  put  this  paste  into  a  saucepan  with  fish  stock  (No.  417)  and  a  little  milk,  in  order 
to  have  the  sauce  not  too  thick;  season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  pepper,  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  then 
finish  with  fresh  butter  just  when  prepared  to  serve.  Shell  some  fresh  green  corn  by  splitting  the 
grains  through  the  center,  and  pressing  on  them  with  the  back  of  a  knife  to  extract  all  the  inside  part, 
chop  this  up  finely,  and  add  to  it  the  sauce,  also  some  hashed  lobster  coral  and  chopped  parsley; 
pour  the  whole  over  the  fish. 

(1230).  POEGIES.  PAUPIETTES  HINDOSTAN  (Paupiettes  de  Porgies  a  ITndostan. 
Remove  the  fillets  and  skin  from  the  fish;  pare  to  the  size  of  one  and  three-quarters  inches  to 
four  inches,  and  season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  pepper;  then  coat  the  flesh  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  fish 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  to  which  has  been  added  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Roll  them  up  into 
cork-shaped  pieces  and  set  them  in  buttered  tin  cylinders;  lay  these  in  a  sautoir,  moisten  with 
mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  sprinkle  over  with  butter,  and  set  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  moments 
simply  to  stiffen  the  fish;  remove,  unmold,  dip  in  egg,  and  roll  in  white  bread-crumbs,  then  run  an 
iron  skewer  through,  and  dip  each  one  in  melted  butter,  and  broil  them  for  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes  over  a  very  low  fire.  Dress  them  on  a  stand  made  with  rice  and  saffron,  surround  with 
sliced  lemon,  each  slice  being  cut  across  in  two,  and  serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
mixed  with  curry  and  buttered  with  cayenne  butter  (No.  571). 

(1231).  PORGIES  WITH  CHABLIS  WINE  (Porgies  an  vin  de  Chablis). 

Prepare  enough  court  bouillon  (No.  39)  with  white  Chablis  wine  to  cover  the  fish ;  range  some  well 
cleansed  fish  on  the  grate  of  a  fish  kettle,  boil  the  court  bouillon  in  the  kettle,  and  replace  the  grate 
containing  the  fish  into  the  boiling  liquid.  Give  a  few  boils,  then  remove  to  the  side  of  the  range, 
keeping  the  kettle  covered  for  a  few  minutes;  when  the  fish  is  cooked,  drain  it  off  and  dress  it  on 
a  napkin  laid  over  a  long  dish;  surround  it  with  sprigs  of  parsley.  Drain  the  broth,  skim  off  the 
fat,  reduce,  and  thicken  it  with  small  pieces  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  boil  it  once  or  twice,  then 
remove,  and  finish  with  a  few  pats  of  fresh  butter,  chopped  parsley,  and  lemon  juice. 

(1232).  BED  SNAPPEE  A  LA  CHEEOT  (Bed  Snapper  k  la  Che'rot). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  the  fish,  pare  them  into  half  hearts,  lard  half  of  them  with  anchovies, 
and  the  other  half  with  lardons  of  eel;  put  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  moisten  to  their  height 
with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  and  champagne  wine;  baste  frequently,  and  when  the  fish  is  done, 
drain  it  off  and  reduce  the  stock.  Fry  a  finely  chopped  onion  in  butter,  dilute  it  with  the  stock 
and  a  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  boil,  despumate.  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  work  in  a  piece  of 
fresh  butter,  a  little  sugar,  and  some  chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  fish  crown-shaped,  pour  some 
of  the  sauce  over  and  garnish  the  center  with  some  villeroi  quenelles;  serve  the  rest  of  the  sauce 
separate. 

(1233).  BED  SNAPPEB  A  LA  CBEQUY  (Bed  Snapper  a  la  Orequy). 

Serve  the  fillets  taken  from  a  fish  either  whole,  or  else  divided  into  quarter  pound  pieces;  cook 
them  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419),  moistened  with  Madeira  wine;  when  cooked  reduce  this  to  half, 
adding  its  equivalent  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Continue  to  reduce,  incorporating  into  the 
sauce  some  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  lemon  juice.  Prepare  a  garnishing 
of  gherkins,  carrots,  quenelles,  and  truffles,  the  carrots  to  be  cut  in  half  inch  balls  blanched  and 
cooked  in  white  broth,  the  quenelles  made  with  a  coffeespoon  (No.  155)  and  poached,  and  the 
gherkins  cut  olive-shaped,  and  the  truffles,  cut  in  the  shape  of  cloves  of  garlic  and  heated  with 
a  little  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira.  Dress  the  fish  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  surround  with 
the  garnishings  arranged  in  groups;  pour  some  sauce  over,  and  serve  the  rest  separately. 

(1234).  BED  SNAPPEE  A  LA  DEMLDOFF  (Bed  Snapper  a  la  Demidoff). 
Keep  the  fillets  whole  while  taking  them  from  the  fish;  remove  the  skin,  pare  and  cut  them 
up  into  bias  slices,  trim  these  giving  them  an  oval  shape,  then  season  and  cover  the  surface  with  a 
cream  forcemeat  (No.  76).     Decorate  the  tops  with  truffles,  range  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  and 


454 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


moisten  with  fish  stock  (No.  195);  cover  over  with  buttered  paper,  and  let  cook  in  a  slack  oven. 
Reduce  the  stock  with  an  equal  quantity  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  garnish  around  the  fish  with 
oysters  from  which  the  hard  parts  have  been  removed,  small  lobster  rissolettes  made  as  in  No  956, 
and  very  green  parsley  leaves  on  each  end.  Serve  the  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1235).  EED  SNAPPEE  A  LA  MOBILE  (Eed  Snapper  a  la  Mobile. 

Pare  the  fillets  lifted  from  a  fish,  suppress  the  skin,  and  cut  them  up  into  half  heart-shaped 
pieces;  make  an  incision  on  one  side,  and  fill  this  with  a  forcemeat  prepared  as  follows:  Fry 
colorless  in  butter  some  shallots,  mushrooms,  chives,  and  parsley;  add  to  it  a  tomato  puree  (No. 
730),  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  mix  in  a  little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409).  Lay 
the  fish  on  a  buttered  dish,  and  cover  with  a  Chivry  sauce  (No.  449). 

(1236).  EED  SNAPPEE  A  LA  PEINOESS  (Eed  Snapper  a  la  Princesse). 

Kemove  the  skin  from  fillets  of  fish  and  cut  them  up  into  half  inch  thick  slices;  pare  these  into 
ovals,  three  and  a  half  inches  long  by  two  and  a  quarter  wide,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Lay 
on  each  oval  a  bed  of  mushroom  puree  (No.  722),  and  cover  the  whole  with  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  90).  Egg  the  surfaces,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  parmesan,  then  set  them  in  a 
lightly  buttered  sautoir;  place  this  in  the  oven  and  when  the  fish  is  done,  serve  it  with  a  separate 
princess  sauce  (No.  528). 

SALMON  (Saumon), 

The  salmon  is  a  large  fish,  its  weight  reaching  thirty  pounds.  The  body  is  covered  with  scales, 
the  meat  is  tender,  thick,  red  colored  and  delicate,  of  an  exquisite  taste,  but  very  difficult  to  digest. 

Dorsal 


Caudal 


Caudal 


No  fish  has  more  than  two  pectorals,  or  two  ventrals;  may  have  several  anals,  and  several  dorsals; 
none,  unless  deformed  or  monstrous,  has  more  than  one  caudal. 

(1237).  SALMON  A  L'AEGENTINE  (Saumon  a  1'Argentine). 

Remove  the  meats  from  the  fillets  of  a  fish,  also  the  skin;  trim  them  into  half  inch  bias 
slices,  then  pare  them  the  shape  of  a  half  heart.  Range  these  pieces  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  white  wine  and  a  court  bouillon  (No.  39)  or  else  some 
mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  Cover  over  with  a  strong  buttered  paper  and  set  them  to  cook  in  a  slow 
oven.  As  soon  as  the  fish  is  done,  drain  off  the  liquid  and  reduce  it  with  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414),  to  a  half-glaze;  dress  the  fillets,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  garnish  the  center  with  a  very 
consistent  argentine  sauce  (No.  429). 

(1238).  SALMON  A  LA  D'AETOIS-HLLETS  (Pilets  de  Saumon  a  la  d'Artois). 
Select  a  piece  from  the  tail  end  of  an  uncooked  fish,  remove  the  meat  from  each  flat  side  of  the 
bone,  suppress  the  skin  and  cut  the  fish  into  half  inch  thick  slices,  pare  them  the  shape  of  a  chicken 
fillet,  season  and  cover  both  sides  with  a  forcemeat  (No.  90)  wet  with  beaten  egg-whites  and  sprinkle 
over  with  finely  chopped  truffles,  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  baste  the  fish  with  melted  butter 
and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done  dress  the  pieces  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  center  with 
cooked  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms.  Cover  over  with  a  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433)  made  with 
lobster  butter  (No.  580)  and  finished  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 


FISH.  455 

(1239),  SALMON  A  LA  DAUMONT  (Saumon  a  la  Daumont). 

Cut  slices  of  fish  half  an  inch  thick,  more  or  less,  so  as  to  strike  the  exact  joints  of  the  large 
dorsa'  bone  so  that  it  can  be  cut  through  without  any  resistance,  otherwise  the  fish  will  be 
torn  and  spoiled.  Put  these  slices  into  a  buttered  sautoir,  season  them  with  salt,  whole  peppers, 
branches  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  minced  onions;  cover  with  cold  water  and  let  cook  slowly; 
suppress  the  skin  and  bones,  dress  the  fish  and  garnish  around  with  mussels,  shrimp  tails  and 
blanched  oysters.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  well  buttered  Normande  sauce  (No.  509),  and  decorate 
the  top  with  minced  truffles  heated  in  a  little  half -glaze  (No.  400)  and  Madeira,  and  around  with 
fluted  and  glazed  mushrooms  and  trussed  crawfish. 

(1240).  SALMON  A  LA  DUPEEEE— DAENE  (Darne  de  Saumon  a  la  Duperre"). 

A  darne  means  a  large  slice  of  salmon,  four  to  six  inches  thick,  cut  from  the  middle  of  the 
fish;  after  it  is  scaled,  put  it  into  an  earthen  vessel  and  cover  with  fine  salt,  leaving  it  thus  for 
one  hour,  then  take  it  out  and  lay  it  in  a  fish  kettle;  cover  with  cold  water  and  a  gill  of  vinegar, 
salt,  minced  carrots  and  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  let  the  liquid  come  to  a 
boil,  then  skim  and  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range  so  that  it  quivers  only  for  forty  to  sixty 
minutes.  Drain  off  the  darne,  suppress  the  skin  and  sanguineous  parts  covering  the  flesh,  and 
dress  it  on  a  dish;  glaze  it  over  with  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  mixed  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580); 
garnish  around  with  the  tender  part  of  oysters,  mushroom  heads  turned  and  channeled  (No.  218) 
and  arranged  in  clusters;  cover  with  a  pint  of  matelotte  sauce  (No.  498)  buttered  when  prepared 
to  serve  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  and  fill  a  sauce-boat  with  the  same  sauce;  lay  a  row  of 
bread  croutons  fried  in  butter  around  the  edge  of  the  dish. 

(1241).  SALMON,  PEENOH  STYLE  (Saumon  a  la  Trangaise). 

Dress  a  small  salmon,  put  it  into  a  fish  kettle  and  moisten  with  mirepoix  stock  and  white  wine 
(No.  419);  set  it  on  the  hot  fire  and  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the  boiling  degree,  skim  and  put  it 
aside,  keeping  it  at  the  same  degree  of  heat,  but  without  boilin^1  for  an  hour  or  more,  according  to 


FIG.  298. 


the  size  of  the  fish.  When  done  suppress  the  skin  and  sanguineous  parts  covering  the  flesh,  glaze  it 
over  with  fish  glaze  (No.  399)  and  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  mixed,  dress  on  a  dish  and  garnish  around 
with  mushroom  heads,  small  truffles  and  milts  cooked  in  a  marinade.  Cover  over  with  financiers 
sauce  (No.  464)  and  lay  around  the  garnishing  small  slices  of  eel  fried  in  butter,  glazed  crawfish 
and  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter;  serve  a  financiere  sauce  (No.  464)  separately. 

(1242).  SALMON  A  LA  MODEENE  (Saumon  a  la  Moderne). 

Prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  blackfish  fillets  a  la  orly  (No.  1114),  small  onions,  milts,  and 
mushrooms,  also  a  champagne  sauce  (No.  445).  Cut  from  a  medium  sized  salmon,  two  inch  thick 
slices;  macerate  them  for  one  hour  in  fine  salt,  drain,  and  range  them  on  the  grate  of  a  small  fish 
kettle  to  plunge  them  into  a  boiling  plain  court  bouillon  (No.  38).  Let  it  boil  once  more,  and  keep 
it  at  the  same  degree  of  heat  but  without  boiling  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes;  when  done 
drain  the  slices  on  a  cloth  to  wipe  off  all  the  moisture;  suppress  the  skin,  then  dress  them  one  over- 
lapping the  other  on  a  long  dish;  around  the  fish  range  the  small  onions,  mushrooms,  and  milts; 
pour  some  of  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  both  ends  with  the  fillets.  Send  the  champagne  sauce 
to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1243).  SALMON  A  LA  VIOTOEIA  (Saumon  a  la  Victoria). 

Trim  slices  of  fish,  each  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness;  cook  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419), 
moistened  with  red  wine,  and  when  done,  which  will  take  from  eight  to  ten  minutes,  drain  them 


456  THE    EPICUREAN. 

off,  and  strain  the  stock;  reduce  this,  and  despumate  it;  just  when  ready  to  serve  stir  in  a  piece  of 
lobster  butter  (No.  580).  Serve  the  fish,  surrounding  it  with  sauted  lobster  escalops,  and  small 
anchovy  tartlets;  cover  the  lobster  with  half  of  the  sauce,  and  pour  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat 
to  be  served  at  the  same  time. 

.(1244).  SALMON-BROILED  SLICES-BEARNAISE  SAUCE  (Tranches  de   Saumon  Grilles  a  la 

Sauce  B6arnaise). 

Cut  off  two  slices  from  the  fish,  each  half  an  inch  thick;  lay  them  on  a  dish  to  sprinkle  with 
salt,  adding  sweet  oil,  minced  onions,  and  parsley  leaves;  let  them  marinate  for  one  hour.  Set 
them  on  a  broiler  and  broil  them  for  thirty  minutes,  basting  them  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter. 
When  done,  remove  the  skin,  dress  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  a  little  oil  mingled  with 
lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley.  Send  to  the  table  with  a  sauce-boat  of  bearnaise  sauce 
(No.  433). 

(1245).  SALMON  MARINADE  SAUCE  (Saumon  a  la  Sauce  Marinade). 

Cut  any  desired  width  slices  from  a  medium  sized  salmon,  in  a  manner  to  separate  the  bone 
at  the  joint,  or  about  every  half  inch.  Range  them  on  a  dish,  besprinkle  with  vinegar  arid  oil. 
season  with  salt,  peppercorns,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley  leaves,  cloves,  mace,  and  a  clove  of 
garlic.  Let  them  marinate  in  this  for  two  hours,  then  range  the  slices  on  a  fish  kettle  grater,  and 
cover  liberally  with  salt  and  the  marinade;  moisten  with  sufficient  cold  water  to  immerse  the  fish 
and  thirty  minutes  before  serving  time,  place  it  on  the  hot  fire  to  bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil,  then 
move  it  aside  and  keep  it  at  the  same  degree  of  heat,  but  without  boiling  for  eighteen  to  twenty 
minutes.  Dress  the  slices  on  a  folded  napkin  with  parsley  leaves  around;  serve  a  separate  sauce- 
boat  of  lean  marinade  sauce  (No.  496). 

(1246).  SALMON— QUARTER— GENEVOISE  SAUCE  (Quart  de  Saumon  a  la  Sauce  Genevoise). 

The  illustration  (Fig.  299),  represents  this  remove  of  salmon  as  it  should  be  dresssed. 

Choose  a  fresh  salmon  weighing  from  twelve  to  sixteen  pounds,  suppress  the  head  and  about 
eight  inches  of  meat  from  the  thin  tail  end ;  divide  the  remainder  into  two  equal  parts  cutting  it 
through  the  thickness  in  the  center,  split  each  part  in  two  lengthwise  pieces  leaving  half  of  the 
large  bone  adhering  to  each  part;  it  is  one  of  these  half  slices  that  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
Tie  these  four  halves  together  to  give  them  their  primitive  shape;  lay  the  fish  on  a  grater  of 


FIG.  299. 

a  small  fish  kettle  with  an  abundance  of  salt,  let  macerate  for  one  hour,  then  cover  with 
cold  water  and  two  gills  of  vinegar,  add  simply  a  large  bunch  of  parsley,  then  heat  the  liquid  while 
skimming,  and  at  the  first  boil  remove  the  kettle  to  the  side  of  the  fire  so  that  the  liquid  quivers 
only  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serving,  drain  off  the  fish  on  the 
grater  and  with  the  tip  of  a  knife  cut  a  slit  in  the  middle  of  each  quarter  of  the  width  of  three 
inches  on  the  whole  length  of  the  skin,  in  a  straight  line,  so  as  to  remove  all  the  central  part,  sup- 
press also  the  sanguineous  crust  covering  the  flesh,  leaving  them  bare.  Wash  the  fish  in  its  own 
broth,  then  rub  the  surfaces  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  or  red  butter  (No.  580).  Slide  the  fish  on 
a  long  dish,  the  bottom  being  supplied  with  a  perforated  board,  and  covered  over  with  a  folded 
napkin.  Send  to  the  table  with  a  dishful  of  three-quarter  inch  potato  balls  boiled  in  salted  water 
and  a  sauce-boat  of  genevoise  sauce  (No.  469). 

(1247).  SALMON  SALTED,  A  LA  BEDLOW  (Saumon  Sal6  a  la  Bedlow). 
Soak  some  salt  salmon  for  twelve  hours,  changing  the  water  several  times,  then  boil  it  in 
acidulated  water  adding  a  handful  of  parsley  branches.     Have  a  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and 
just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it  pats  of  fresh  butter;  add  some  nasturtiums  and  garnish 
around  with  small  crab  croquettes  (No.  879). 


FISH.  457 

(1248).  SALMON-SMOKED  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Saumon  Fume*  a  rAmericaine). 
Boil  over  a  slow  fire  some  fresh,  mellow  smoked  salmon,  then  dress  it  with  the  following 
sauce:  Chop  up  finely  two  shallots,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  fish  essence  (No. 
388),  and  one  gill  of  vinegar,  reduce  with  a  pint  of  lean  veloute  (No.  415);  stir  in  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  569)  and  four  finely  chopped  hard  boiled  egg-yolks;  strew 
a  little  chopped  parsley  over  and  serve. 

(1249).  SARDINES  BROILED.  ANCHOVIES  PRIED.  SILVER  PISH  IN  PAPERS  (Sardines 
Grillees.  Anchois  Frits.  Silver  Pish  en  Papillotes). 

Broiled  Sardines. — If  the  sardines  be  fresh,  empty  and  scrape  on  each  side,  then  wipe  well. 
Put  them  on  a  plate,  pour  oil  over,  and  place  them  on  a  double  hinged  broiler;  broil,  dress  and 
baste  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581).  Serve  at  the  same  time  some  slices  of  toast.  In  case 
there  be  no  fresh  sardines  then  use  those  in  tins;  take  them  out  of  the  box,  suppress  the  skin,  and 
cut  off  both  ends,  finish  them  the  same  as  the  fresh  ones. 

Fried  Anchovies.  — If  no  fresh  anchovies  be  handy,  then  use  uusalted  ones,  splitting  them  in 
two  and  soak  in  fresh  water  for  three  hours.  Drain,  clean,  and  put  them  on  a  deep  plate  pouring 
over  vinegar,  oil,  adding  mignonette  pepper.  Dip  them  in  frying  paste,  then  plunge  into  very 
hot  oil  to  fry  them  to  a  fine  color;  drain  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  in  a  pyramidical  form, 
arranging  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top.  Serve  with  anchovy  sauce  (No.  427). 

Silver  Fish  in  Papers. — After  cleaning  the  fish,  slightly  detach  the  fillets  in  order  to  remove 
the  middle  bone;  salt  and  coat  over  with  oil,  broil  them  but  little.  Oil  some  sheets  of  paper,  cut 
into  heart-shapes;  on  one  side  place  a  little  Duxelle  (No.  385),  over  this  the  fish,  and  finish  with  a 
little  more  Duxelle,  then  fold  the  paper  all  around  to  enclose  them  hermetically;  when  they  are 
two-thirds  folded  pour  in  some  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  and  finish  to  close.  Butter  the  dish  on 
which  they  are  to  be  served,  put  on  the  papers  and  set  it  in  the  oven.  Serve  when  the  papers  have 
swollen  and  they  are  of  a  fine  color. 

(1250).  SHAD  BROILED,  RAVIGOTE  BUTTER  (Alose  Grillee,  Beurre  Ravigote). 
The  shad  is  a  fish  of  the  Clupeidae  family,  found  in  North  America  and  Europe.    It  is  an  excellent 
fish  with  a  toothless  mouth,  and  a  large  veined  head.    Select  a  very  fresh  shad;  split  it  down  the 


FIG.  300. 

entire  back,  remove  the  spinal  bone,  and  season  with  salt,  and  place  it  on  a  dish  with  some  oil, 
afterward  broil  it  with  the  flesh  side  on  the  broiler,  having  a  low  but  well  maintained  fire;  turn  it, 
over  when  a  fine  color  to  finish  cooking.  Dress  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish;  besprinkle  with  ravigote 
butter  (No.  583),  partially  melted  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  and  serve. 

(1251),  SHAD  A  LA  CREOLE  (Alose  a  la  Creole). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  a  shad,  remove  the  skin,  and  cut  the  fish  into  half  inch  thick  slices;  pare 
them  half  heart-shape  (each  one  should  weigh  four  ounces  after  being  pared).  Cook  them  in  a 
mirepoix  stock  with  white  wine  (No.  419),  and  when  done  drain  off  the  stock  to  reduce  it  with 
veloute  sauce  (No.  416).  Dress  the  fillets  of  shad  in  a  circle,  and  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  rice 
a  la  creole,  and  surround  the  fish  with  fried  shad  milts  or  broiled  shad  roe. 

To  Prepare  Creole  Rice. — Have  half  a  pound  of  washed  rice  for  every  shad;  set  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan, moisten  with  twice  as  much  water,  adding  two  ounces  of  butter;  let  boil,  and  then  finish 
cooking  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes;  stir  into  it  a  little  saffron,  butter,  and  lemon 
juice. 


458  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1252),  SHAD  A  LA  EVERS  GARNISHED  WITH  SHAD  EOE  SHELLS  (Alose  a  la  Evers, 

Garnie  de  Ooquilles  d'ffiuf  d' Alose). 

Split  a  shad  through  the  back,  remove  the  middle  bone;  fry  in  butter  very  finely  hashed  onions, 
shallots,  and  fresh  mushrooms;  add  to  this  some  bread-crumbs  after  soaking  and  pressing  them, 
also  chopped  parsley,  butter,  and  egg-yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Fill  the  inside  of  the  shad  with 
this  preparation,  lay  it  on  a  buttered  pan,  pouring  over  a  little  white  wine  and  veloute  sauce  (No.  415); 
besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs,  parmesan,  and  butter,  then  set  it  into  the  oven  so  that  the  fish  cooks 
well  and  browns  nicely.  When  done  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  dredge  with  chopped 
parsley.  Cover  the  tops  of  the  shells  in  the  oven,  and  serve  them  on  napkins  the  same  time  as  the 
shad. 

For  the  garnishing  use  shells  of  shad's  roe,  prepared  by  wrapping  the  roes  in  strong  buttered 
paper,  and  cooking  them  in  a  slow  oven;  remove  the  paper  and  adhering  skins,  and  use  them  to 
fill  well  some  cleaned  scollop  shells.  Fry  a  little  bread-raspings  in  butter  with  the  addition  of 
chopped  up  mushrooms  and  onions;  moisten  with  a  little  white  wine,  add  some  bechamel  (No.  409), 
and  pour  this  over  the  filled  shells;  bestrew  the  top  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  be- 
sprinkle over  a  little  butter,  color  them  and  serve  on  a  dish  over  a  folded  napkin. 

(1253).  SHAD,  BRUSSELS  STYLE  (Alose  a  la  Bruxelloise). 

Eaise  the  fillets  from  a  shad  and  remove  the  skin,  then  lay  the  fish  on  a  buttered  dish.  Mix 
with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one  ounce  of  finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  pepper,  salt,  nut- 
meg, lemon  juice  and  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic;  cover  the  fish  with  this  preparation,  dredge  over 
bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  and  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter.  Cook  the  shad  in  a  hot 
oven  and  when  done,  press  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  besprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  and  cover 
with  a  rather  light  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  made  with  white  wine. 

(1254).  SHAD,  IRISH  STYLE,  GARNISHED  WITH  SHAD  ROE  CROQUETTES  (Alose  a  1'Irlan- 

daise  Garnie  de  Croquettes  d'ffiufs  d'Alose). 

Split  a  medium  sized  shad  thi'ough  the  entire  length  of  the  back;  take  out  the  spinal  bone, 
then  season  the  fish  with  salt;  coat  it  over  with  sweet  oil  and  broil  it  .to  a  fine  color,  having  it  at 
the  same  time  well  cooked,  then  dress  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Garnish  around  with  potato  balls  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  cooked  in  salted  water,  well  drained,  and  covered  with  a  green 
ravigote  sauce  (No.  531),  sending  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  to  the  table.  Around  the  potatoes  lay 
croquettes  made  of  shad's  roe,  round  and  flat,  the  same  as  below,  and  serve  the  whole  very  hot. 

Shad's  Roe  Croquettes. — Boil  a  shad's  roe  in  a  little  mushroom  broth,  then  skin  it.  Fry  in 
melted  butter  a  little  chopped  shallot,  add  to  it  the  roe,  some  bechamel  cream,  salt  and  prepared 
red  pepper  (No.  168),  reduce  and  stir  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  when  this  preparation  is  cold  make 
it  into  one  and  a  quarter  inch  croquette  balls,  flattening  them  down  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness; 
dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color,  then  drain,  wipe  and 
dress  around  the  potatoes. 

(1255),  PLANKED  SHAD,  RAVIGOTE  BUTTER  (Alose  a  la  Planche,  au  Beurre  Ravigote). 

Procure  a  very  dry  cherrywood  plank,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  fourteen  inches  long, 
and  ten  inches  wide;  it  should  be  beveled  on  the  bottom  edge  with  two  crosspieces  of  wood  which 
should  be  screwed  on  underneath.  Open  the  shad  by  splitting  it  down  the  back,  remove  the  spinal 
bone  and  season  with  salt;  cut  off  the  head  and  thin  tail  part,  and  fasten  the  shad  on  the  plank; 
set  it  in  front  of  the  fire  to  cook,  or  better  still  underneath  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123. )  When  the 
fish  is  done — which  will  be  in  about  thirty  minutes — lay  both  the  plank  and  shad  on  a  dish,  and 
cover  the  top  of  the  fish  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583) ;  serve  it  immediately. 

0.256),  SHAD,  WITH  SORREL  PUREE  AND  SORREL  LEAVES  (Alose  a  la  Puree  d'Oseille  et  aux 

Feuilles  d'Oseille). 

With  Sorrel  Puree. — Trim  the  fillets  of  shad  into  half  hearts,  cook  them  as  in  No.  1253,  and 
then  dress  in  a  circle;  garnish  the  center  with  some  sorrel  puree  (No.  728). 

With  Sorrel  Leaves. — Fry  two  ounces  of  chopped  onions,  moisten  with  fish  broth,  and  add  half 
a  pound  o-f  sorrel  leaves;  lay  the  whole  shad  on  top  of  this  with  two  ounces  of  butter  put  on  the 
cover,  closing  it  hermetically  with  a  little  dough  made  with  flour  and  water,  and  cook  it  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  five  hours.  Serve  the  fish  whole  with  the  broth  reduced. 


FISH.  459 

(1257).  SHEEPSHEAD  A  LA  BECHAMEL  (Sheepshead  a  la  Bechamel). 

Cook  two  pounds  of  peeled  mushroom  heads  with  butter  and  lemon  juice,  then  cut  them  up 
into  transverse  slices.  Butter  a  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  either  oval  or  round  according  to  the  shape 
of  the  dish  it  is  intended  for;  bestrew  the  inside  with  bread-crumbs  and  fill  in  the  empty  space 
with  duchess  potato  preparation  (No.  2785);  press  down  the  potatoes  well,  butter  over  with  a  brush, 
then  set  it  on  a  baking  sheet  to  brown  nicely  in  the  oven.  Cut  a  six-pound  sheepshcad  into 
square  pieces,  cook  them  in  salted  water,  and  as  soon  as  done,  drain;  shred  the  fish  suppressing  all 
the  bones,  skin,  etc.,  and  put  it  into  a  sautoir;  pour  over  some  good,  reduced,  thick  bechamel 
(No.  409),  raw  cream  and  mushroom  broth,  adding  butter  piece  by  piece  after  it  is  taken  from 
the  fire.  Invert  the  border  on  a  dish — garnish  the  center  with  the  shredded  sheepshead  alternat- 
ing with  layers  of  the  sliced  mushrooms;  pour  over  a  little  of  the  sauce  and  shape  it  into  a  dome; 
cover  the  summit  with  a  layer  of  Mornay  sauce  (No.  504),  smooth  nicely,  then  besprinkle  with 
grated  parmesan  and  melted  butter,  glaze  in  a  very  hot  oven  or  else  a  gas  salamander  (Fig. 
123).  Decorate  the  dome  with  four  or  six  trussed  crawfish  and  serve  separately  a  reduced  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409)  finished  with  red  butter  (No.  580). 

(1258).  SHEEPSHEAD  A  LA  BOUKaUIGUONNE  (Sheepshead  a  la  Bourguignonne). 

Mince  four  ounces  of  onions,  and  fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  moistening  with  a  bottle  of  Bur- 
gundy wine;  season,  and  add  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  then  continue  to  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Remove  the  fillets  from  a  fine  sheepshead,  suppress  the  skin,  and  cut  the  fish  into  half  inch 
thick  slices,  pare  them  half  heart-shaped;  these  slices  should  each  weigh  four  ounces;  lay  them  one 
beside  the  other  in  a  baking  dish  and  pour  over  the  strained  wine.  Cook  the  fish  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  basting  occasionally;  when  done  drain  the  fish  on  a  dish,  strain  the 
stock  through  a  sieve,  skim  off  its  fat,  and  thicken  it  with  a  few  bits  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579), 
then  pour  it  over  the  slices  of  sheepshead  and  serve. 

(1259).  SHEEPSHEAD  A  LA  BUENA  VISTA  (Sheepshead  a  la  Buena  Vista). 

Put  a  well  cleansed  sheepshead  into  the  fish  kettle  and  cook  it  in  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419); 
when  the  fish  is  done,  dress  and  garnish  around  with  sauted  shrimp  and  the  soft  part  of  some 
oysters.  The  sauce  to  accompany  this  is  made  with  bechamel  (No.  409)  mixed  with  a  tomato 
puree  (No.  730),  seasoned  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  and  lemon  juice;  strain  this  sauce  and  add  to 
it  a  few  blanched  tarragon  leaves,  pour  half  of  this  over  the  fish  and  garnishing.  Place  around 
some  fried  porgy  paupiettes  (No.  1230),  and  potato  cakes  (No.  2778).  Serve  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  in  a  sauce  tureen. 

(1260).  SHEEPSHEAD  A  LA  MEISSONIEK  (Sheepshead  a  la  Meissonier). 

Blanch  separately  one  ounce  of  parsley  root,  one  ounce  of  celery  knob  root,  two  ounces  of  mush- 
rooms, two  ounces  of  the  white  of  leeks,  all  cut  in  fine  strips,  and  minced  onions,  also  blanched 
separately.  Put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  hot  place  therein  the 
onions,  leeks,  mushroom,  parsley  and  celery  roots,  and  fry  without  browning.  Moisten  with  white 
wine  and  fish  stock  (No.  417).  Lift  the  fillets  from  the  fish,  pare  them  neatly,  and  lay  them  in  a 
deep  buttered  dish,  the  skin  part  downward;  pour  over  the  prepared  stock,  and  cover  over  with 
another  dibh,  then  cook  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Put  into  a  saucepan,  one 
pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  boil,  and  reduce  it  with  the  stock  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  sauce, 
add  the  vegetables,  dress  the  fish,  pour  the  sauce  and  the  roots  over,  and  bestrew  the  whole  with 
very  green,  chopped  parsley. 

(1261).  SHEEPSHEAD,  OAEDINAL  SAUCE  (Sheepshead  a  la  Sauce  Cardinal). 

Clean  and  prepare  a  sheepshead,  tying  down  the  head,  then  place  it  on  the  grate;  plunge  this 
into  cold  salted  water  in  a  fish  kettle;  place  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil,  cover  the  kettle  and 
remove  it  to  one  side  so  that  the  liquid  only  quivers;  keep  it  thus  for  forty-five  to  sixty  minutes, 
then  drain  and  rub  the  surface  over  with  a  piece  of  butter;  dress  the  sheepshead  and  garnish  it 
around  with  very  green  parsley  branches  and  olive-shaped  potatoes  boiled  in  salted  water.  Serve 
at  the  same  time  a  cardinal  sauce  (No.  442)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 


400  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1262).  SHEEPSHEAD  WITH  THICKENED  COURT  BOUILLON  (Sheepshead  an  Court  Bouillon  LieO 
Clean  well  a  very  fresh  sheepshead  weighing  about  six  pounds,  and  place  it  on  a  grate  of  a 
fish  kettle;  pour  over  just  sufficient  court  bouillon  (No.  38)  to  cover.  Set  the  fish  kettle  on  the  fire 
and  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil  while  skimming,  then  remove  it  at  once  to  the  side  of  the  range 
to  keep  quivering  without  boiling  for  half  an  hour.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  pan,  add  to  it  a  finely 
chopped  shallot  and  fry  it  colorless,  also  eight  ounces  of  minced  mushrooms;  moisten  with  some  of 
the  court  bouillon  and  let  reduce.  Lay  the  sheepshead  on  a  buttered  dish;  season  with  salt  and 
mignonette  and  pour  the  sauce  over;  cover  with  another  dish  and  finish  cooking  in  the  oven  for 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  dress  the  fish,  reduce  the  stock  and  thicken 
it  with  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  pour  it  over  the  fish 
after  removing  the  skin  from  both  ends.  This  sauce  should  be  rather  light  than  otherwise.  Sprinkle 
chopped  parsley  over  all. 

(1263).  SKATE  A  LA  LECHARTIER  (Raie  a  la  Lechartier). 

Suppress  the  fins  and  wash  a  medium-sized  skate,  after  having  emptied  it,  divide  it  into  three 
parts,  the  two  wings  and  the  body;  lay  these  in  cold  water  of  a  sufficient  quantity  to  cover  entirely, 
then  add  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  sliced  onions  and  parsley  leaves.  Set  the  fiah  boiler  on  the  fire 
removing  it  at  the  first  boil,  put  in  the  liver  and  keep  it  on  one  side  without  letting  it  boil  for  full 
half  an  hour,  drain  off  the  fish,  scrape  it  well  on  both  sides  in  order  to  remove  the  skin  properly. 
Put  into  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish  a  bed  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No  385),  on  this  the  skate  with  the 
sliced  liver  around;  coverall  with  a  well  reduced  bechamel  (No.  409),  into  which  has  been  stirred  a 
little  melted  fish  glaze  (No.  399);  besprinkle  with  grated  parmesan,  bread-crumbs  or  raspings  and 
chopped  parsley,  the  whole  well  mixed  together;  pour  over  a  little  butter  and  bake  in  the  oven. 
When  serving  squeeze  on  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

(1264).  SKATE,  WITH  HAZELNUT  OR  BLACK  BUTTER  (Raie  au  Beurre  Noisette  ou  Noir). 

Cut  the  fish  up  into  three  parts,  the  two  wings  and  the  body;  each  wing  into  three  parts  and 
the  body  into  two,  making  eight  parts  in  all.  Suppress  the  head  and  tail,  empty  it  from  the  belly 
side,  reserving  the  liver.  Plunge  the  pieces  of  skate  into  boiling  water  until  the  skin  will  detach 
when  scraping  it  off  with  a  knife.  After  all  the  pieces  are  well  cleansed  soak  them  for  one  hour  in 
cold  water.  Boil  some  water  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  minced  roots  and  onions,  aromatic  herbs, 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  salt  and  three  gills  of  vinegar;  let  this  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  throw  in  the 
skate  and  the  liver,  cover  over  when  it  begins  to  boil,  set  it  on  one  side  to  poach  merely,  without, 
boiling;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later  drain  and  dry  all  the  moisture  on  a  cloth.  Dress  the  fish  on 
a  dish  with  the  liver  sliced,  cover  it  liberally  with  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567)  or  else  black  butter 
(No.  565),  or  a  sharp  sauce  (No.  538). 

(1265).  SMELTS  A  1'ALEXANDRIA  (Eperlans  a  1'Alexandrie). 

A  genus  offish  of  the  Malacapterigian  order  of  the  salmon  family,  being  five  to  six  inches  long. 
This  fish  is  remarkable  for  its  silvery  coloring,  and  the  delicacy  of  its  meat,  which  has  a  slight  fra- 
grance of  the  violet  or  cucumber. 

Smelts  a  V Alexandria. — For  twelve  smelts  mince  finely  four  medium  leeks,  and  fry  them  in 
butter.  Cut  the  heads  and  tails  from  the  smelts,  and  fry  the  fish  with  the  leeks;  besprinkle  with 
flour  and  moisten  with  tomato  gravy,  adding  whole  peppers  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  con- 
taining bay  leaf  and  garlic.  When  the  fish  is  done,  dress  and  reduce  the  sauce,  thickening  it  with 
egg-yolks  and  butter,  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  (Fig.  88) ;  garnish  round  the  dish  with  the 
smelt's  milts  or  roe  fried  in  butter,  cover  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a 
sauoe-boat. 

(1266).  SMELTS  A  LA  GONDOLIERE  (Eperlans  a  la  Gondoliere). 

Bone  medium  sized  smelts  after  cleaning  nicely;  split  them  down  through  the  back,  remove 
the  bone,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  stuff  their  insides  with  a  pike  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  90),  into  which  a  quarter  as  much  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  have  been  added,  and  softened 
with  a  little  good  cream;  fill  the  smelts  with  this,  close  to  give  them  their  original  shape,  and  wrap 
them  up  in  a  double  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  Braise  the  fish  in  a  mirepoix  stock  with  white  wine 
(No.  419),  and  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  strain  the  liquid  and  reduce,  adding  to  it  a  Venetian  sauce 
(No.  555) ;  unwrap  the  smelts,  range  them  in  the  center  of  a  dish  and  pour  the  sauce  over,  garn- 
ishing the  ends  with  trussed  crawfish. 


FISH.  461 

(1267).  SMELTS  A  LA  NORFOLK  (Eperlans  a  la  Norfolk). 

Cut  off  the  heads  and  thin  tail  parts  from  some  large  smelts ;  bone,  and  stuff  them  with  a 
pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  containing  raw  fine  herbs;  range  them  on  a  buttered  baking  dish, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  dredge  over  chopped  shallots  fried  in  butter;  moisten 
with  white  wine,  put  to  cook  in  a  slow  oven  basting  frequently  with  its  own  stock;  when  done 
drain  off  the  fish,  reduce  the  liquid  with  veloute  (No.  415),  skim  and  season  well. 
Just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  the  sauce  a  little  fresh  butter  and  cut  up  mush- 
rooms. 

(1268).  SMELTS,  DIPLOMATIC  (Eperlans  Diplomate). 

Have  large  fresh  smelts  cut  off  the  fins,  the  dorsal,  remove  the  eyes,  split  the  fish  open  through 
the  back,  suppress  the  gills  and  sever  the  spinal  bone  a  little  below  the  head,  and  just  above  the 
tail,  then  detach  and  remove  it.  Salt  the  insides  and  fill  them  through  a  cornet  with  fish  forcemeat 
(No.  90)  mixed  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped  truffles;  shape  them  into  rings  by  slip- 
ping the  tail  through  the  gill  and  mouth  so  that  they  bite  their  tails;  tie  to  keep  well  together,  then 
flour  them  lightly;  dip  each  one  into  raw  egg-yolks  beaten  up  with  melted  butter,  drain,  and  then  roll 
them  in  white  bread-crumbs.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  raised-edged  baking  pan,  range  the  fish  in 
this  butter,  one  beside  the  other,  and  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  on  both  sides;  the  but- 
ter should  be  plentiful  and  very  hot.  Drain  the  smelts  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  untie,  and  dress 
them  on  a  long  dish  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  at  each  end.  Serve  a  separate  lobster  sauce 
(No.  488). 

(1269),    FRIED    SMELTS,    ON    SKEWERS,  TARTAR    TRUFFLE    SAUCE  (Eperlans    Frits  en 

Brochettes;  Sauce  Tartars  aux  TrufFes). 

Choose  the  smelts  of  a  medium  size;  empty,  clean,  and  wipe  dry,  then  season  and  dip  a  few 
at  the  time  into  milk,  then  roll  quickly  in  flour,  and  sift  through  a  very  coarse  sieve.  Take 
them  up  by  the  heads,  and  run  small  metal  skewers  through  the  eyes,  either  four  or  six  on 
each  one;  plunge  them  at  once  into  hot  frying  fat  in  order  to  have  them  a  nice  color,  then  drain 
and  salt.  Dress  the  smelts  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  quartered 
lemons,  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  tartar  sauce  (No.  631),  with  chopped  truffles  added. 


(1270),  SMELTS  IN  DAUPHIN  A  LA  HAMLIN  (Eperlans  en  Dauphin  a  la  Hamlin). 

Prepare  some  very  thin  pancakes;  cover  each  one  with  a  thick  layer  of  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90), 
into  which  raw  fine  herbs  have  been  mingled;  place  another  thin  pancake  on  top,  then  pare  them 
into  half  hearts.  Bone  some  smelts  leaving  on  the  head,  remove  the  eyes,  replace  by  a  small  bit  of 
forcemeat,  and  a  dot  of  truffle,  roll  them  up  with  the  fillets  inside  and  fill  the  empty  space  in  the 
center  of  each  side  with  some  of  the  same  forcemeat;  set  on  top  a  small  fluted  mushroom  head  (No. 
118).  Cover  the  half  hearts  with  the  forcemeat,  and  lay  a  smelt  over;  place  in  its  mouth  a  small 
piece  of  red  lobster  cut  from  one  of  the  claws.  Set  these  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  pour  over 
some  butter,  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  then  cook  them  in  a  slack  oven;  dress 
crown-shaped,  and  serve  with  a  ravigote  sauce  (No.  531),  separately. 

(1271).  FRIED  SOLES  A  LA  COLBERT  (Soles  Frites  a  la  Colbert). 

The  sole  is  an  excellent  tasting  fish,  its  meat  being  delicate  and  choice.  It  is  found  in  almost 
every  sea.  The  shape  is  nearly  oblong,  and  its  mouth  long  and  projecting. 

Fried  Soles  a  la  Colbert. — Dress  a  medium  sized  sole,  paring  off  the  black  skin;  detach  the 
fillets  from  the  bone  on  the  same  side,  two  inches  from  the  head,  and  three  from  the  tail;  break 
the  bone  with  the  dull  edge  of  a  knife,  three  inches  from  the  head  and  four  from  the  tail;  dip  the 
fish  into  salted  milk,  roll  it  in  flour,  then  immerse  entirely  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  in  fresh  bread- 
crumbs; let  the  sole  fry  slowly  so  that  it  cooks,  and  is  of  a  fine  color,  and  when  done,  remove  the 
piece  of  spinal  bone,  and  fill  the  inside  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581).  Dress  on  a  hot  dish 
and  garnish  with  cut  lemons  (No.  113). 


462  THE    EPICUREAN 

(1272),  SOLES  A  LA  LUTECE  (Soles  a  la  Lutece). 

Cut  off  straight  the  heads  from  three  well  cleaned  soles;  remove  the  black  skin;  shorten  them 
greatly  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  split  them  through  the  middle  of  the  skinned  side,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper;  dip  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  egg,  and  lastly  in  bread-crumbs;  fry  in  clarified  butter, 
dress  on  a  very  hot  oval-shaped  dish,  and  garnish  around  with  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter 
potato  balls,  fried  and  afterward  rolled  in  fresh  butter;  season  with  salt,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped 
parsley.  Serve  a  Parisian  sauce  (No.  515),  at  the  same  time,  but  separately. 

(1273).  SOLES  A  LA  MARGUERY-FILLETS  (Pilets  de  Soles  a  la  Marguery), 
Kaise  the  fillets  from  two  clean,  skinned  soles;  fold  in  two,  pare  nicely  and  season,  range 
them  on  a  buttered  baking  dish  and  bestrew  the  surface  with  shallots  and  mushroom  peelings: 
moisten  to  cover  with  a  white  wine  court  bouillon  (No.  39)  and  allow  the  liquid  to  come  to  a 
boil,  then  finish  cooking  the  fillets  in  a  slow  oven.  Drain  them  off  singly,  and  dress  on  a  dish; 
garnish  one  side  with  shrimp  tails,  and  the  other  with  blanched  oysters,  from  which  the  hard 
parts  have  been  removed,  or  mussels.  Keep  the  whole  very  warm.  Strain  the  broth  the  soles 
were  cooked  in,  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze,  thicken  with  a  mere  spoonful  of  Normande  sauce  (No. 
509)  and  finish  with  a  piece  of  fresh  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  pour  this  over  the  fillets  and  garn- 
ishings,  then  glaze  the  sauce  with  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123);  two  minutes  will  suffice  for  this. 
When  the  fish  is  ready  to  be  served,  brush  the  surface  with  thin  lines  of  red  butter  (No.  580). 

(1274).  SOLES  A  LA.  NORMANDE  (Filets  de  Soles  Normande). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  four  medium  sized  soles  weighing  about  a  pound  each;  remove  the  skin, 
pare  them  neatly  and  fold  in  two.  Put  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  season  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  chopped  onions  and  moisten  to  their  height  with  white  wine  and  mushroom  broth  or  else  court 
boullion  (No.  39),  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil,  then  set  the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven  to  leave  until  the 
fish  is  well  cooked,  basting  frequently  with  the  stock;  drain  off  the  fish  and  strain  the  stock,  then 
reduce  it  with  some  veloute  (No.  415)  and  thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter. 
Dress  the  sole  fillets  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  garnish  the  inside  border  with  half  circular-shaped 
croutons  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick  and  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  heat  the  dish 
slightly,  dip  the  flat  side  of  the  crouton  in  beaten  eggs,  stick  it  to  the  plate,  besprinkle  with  melted 
butter  and  color  in  a  hot  oven.  Around  the  fillets  of  sole  arrange  some  quenelles  molded  in  a 
coffeespoon  (No.  155),  some  mussels  or  oysters  from  which  the  hard  parts  have  been  removed  and 
channeled  and  turned  mushroom  heads  (No.  118),  then  cover  the  whole  with  the  sauce.  Garn- 
ish the  inside  of  the  circle  with  fillets  of  smelts  or  milts  a  la  villeroi,  drip  over  the  surface  thin  lines 
of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose,  and  lay  trussed  crawfish  on  top. 

(1275).  SOLES  A  LA  RICHELIEU-FILLETS  (Filets  de  Soles  a  la  Richelieu). 
Raise  twelve  fillets  from  the  soles;  pare  them  their  whole  length  and  flatten;  season  and  lay 
them  on  a  buttered  raised-edged  baking  tin  with  the  parings  and  bones,  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine, 
sprigs  of  parsley,  bay  leaf,  salt,  and  whole  peppers;  make  a  court  bouillon  by  boiling  twenty 
minutes;  strain  it,  and  cover  the  fillets,  and  poach  them  partially  only;  a  few  moments  will  suffice 
for  this.  Drain  and  range  them  on  another  clean  baking  sheet,  covering  over  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  let  get  cold  under  a  weight,  then  pare  them  once  more;  strain  the  above  stock, 
skim  off  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze,  incorporating  it  slowly  into  a  little  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  with  the  oyster  and  mushroom  broth.  When  the  sauce  is  of  a  sufficient  succulence  strain 
and  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie.  Make  a  pike  forcemeat  (No.  76).  Butter  some  oval  rings  three  and 
one-half  inches  by  one  and  three-quarter  inches,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  lay  these  on  sheets  of 
buttered  paper,  fill  them  with  pike  forcemeat;  smooth  nicely,  and  range  on  top  the  pared  fillets;  set 
the  rings  on  a  baking  sheet  one  beside  another,  cover  with  buttered  paper  cut  in  the  desirable 
size.  This  operation  may  be  performed  a  few  hours  before  dinner  time,  that  is  if  the  baking  sheets 
can  be  kept  on  ice  to  prevent  the  forcemeat  from  souring.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving  set 
the  sheets  in  a  slow  oven  to  heat  the  fillets,  and  poach  the  forcemeat.  After  taking  them  out  lift 
off  the  paper,  then  with  a  fish  skimmer  remove  each  bed  of  forcemeat  and  fillets  without  disar- 
ranging them  whatever,  remove  the  rings  and  the  paper,  dress  at  once  on  a  dish  and  surround  with 
very  hot  garnishing  of  twelve  quenelles,  godiveau  of  pike  (No.  83),  and  two  dozen  channeled  mush- 
rooms (No.  118)  on  the  other;  as  soon  as  the  dishes  are  garnished  set  them  into  the  heater.  At 
the  very  last  moment  heat  the  sauce  while  stirring,  adding  butter  in  moderation:  remove  tbe  dish 


FISH.  163 

from  the  heater,  drain  off  the  liquid  and  lightly  cover  the  fish  garnishings  with  the  sauce.  Send 
a  sauce-boat  of  the  sauce  into  which  has  been  added  two  dozen  oysters,  from  which  the  hard  parts 
have  been  removed,  trimmed  and  cut  in  large  dice. 

(1276).  SOLES  A  LA  KOOHELAISE  (Soles  a  la  Kochelaise). 

Remove  the  black  skin  from  a  fine  sole;  insert  the  knife  .on  each  side  to  separate  the  fillets 
without  detaching  them;  lay  the  fish  on  a  buttered  dish,  the  black  skin  side  underneath;  moisten 
with  white  wine  and  oyster  broth,  season  and  set  on  top  some  small  pieces  of  butter;  place  it  in  the 
oven  to  cook  without  coloring.  Drain  off  the  stock,  add  a  minced  onion,  and  reduce  it  to  half, 
pouring  in  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  thickening  with  butter  and  lemon  juice;  strain 
this  through  a  tammy;  garnish  around  the  sole  with  mushroom  heads  and  the  soft  part  of  oysters; 
add  chopped  parsley,  pour  part  of  the  sauce  over  the  whole,  serve  the  rest  separately. 

(1277).  SOLES  A  LA  TROUVILLE  (Soles  a  la  Trouville). 

Suppress  the  heads  and  skin  from  two  well  cleaned  soles;  split  them  down  on  the  dark  side  in 
order  to  remove  the  large  bone;  season  the  fish,  and  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  a  fish  farce  (No. 
90;  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  387),  mixed  with  a  salpicon  of  blanched  oysters.  Range  the  soles 
on  a  baking  dish  or  sheet,  moisten  them  with  a  court  bouillon  with  white  wine  (No.  39);  season, 
and  let  the  liquid  reach  boiling  point,  then  finish  cooking  the  soles  in  a  moderate  oven.  After 
they  are  done,  strain  their  stock  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze;  incorporate  into  it  slowly  some 
reduced  veloute  (No.  415),  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  oyster  broth.  Dress  the  soles  on  a  dish, 
cover  them  over  with  the  sauce,  and  surround  the  sides  with  small  quenelles  (No.  90)  made  with 
red  butter  (No.  580),  and  the  ends  with  a  cluster  of  fried  oysters.  Send  a  surplus  of  the  sauce 
to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1278).  SOLES,  VENETIAN  STYLE-PILLETS  (Filets  de  Soles  a  la  Vemtienne). 
Detach  entirely  the  fillets  from  six  fine,  very  thick  soles;  remove  the  black  skin,  beat  to  flatten 
lightly  and  fold  each  one  in  two,  pare  and  place  them  in  a  sauteing  pan,  having  it  well  buttered, 
the  pointed  ends  laid  toward  the  center;  add  a  little  salt  and  lemon  juice,  saute  without  coloring, 
and  when  done  dish  up  in  a  crown-shape,  cover  with  a  Venetian  sauce  (No.  555),  and 
garnish  the  pointed  end  with  a  crawfish  claw  from  which  the  smaller  movable  claw  has  been  re- 
moved, garnish  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10);  serve. 

(1279).  SOLES  BAKED  ITALIAN  STYLE  (Soles  an  Gratin  a  1'Italienne). 
For  this  dish  select  medium  sized  soles,  lay  them  on  the  table  the  white  side  underneath,  then 
proceed  to  cut  off  the  heads  on  the  bias;  from  this  side  suppress  the  giils  and  empty  the  sole 
thoroughly;  cut  off  the  thin  tail  end  and  scrape  the  surface  with  the  dull  edge  of  a  knife  to  detach 
slightly  the  skin  covering  the  tail,  keeping  the  tail  bone  in  position  with  the  same  side  of  the  knife; 
seize  the  skin  with  a  towel,  and  tear  it  off  violently  with  one  stroke.  Use  a  pair  of  large  scissors  to 
remove  the  small  bones  found  on  the  outside,  and  scrape  the  white  skin,  then  wash,  wipe,  and  make 
a  straight  incision  on  the  skinned  side  to  the  middle  bone,  then  detach  the  fillets  half  an  inch 
on  each  side.  Butter  a  baking  dish,  lay  in  it  the  soles,  having  the  skinned  side  down,  and  pour 
over  two  gills  of  white  wine,  salt  and  pepper;  lay  a  few  pieces  of  butter  on  top,  and  let  the  stock 
come  to  a  boil,  then  set  the  dish  into  the  oven  for  five  minutes;  when  through  lay  six  channeled 
mushroom  heads  (No.  118)  in  a  straight  row  on  top,  cover  with  an  Italian  sauce  (No.  484),  and 
dredge  over  a  thin  layer  of  bread-raspings;  pour  over  melted  butter,  and  color  in  a  hot  oven  for 
twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  then  serve. 

(1280).  IKIED  SOLES  (Soles  FritesX 

Fried  soles  are  prepared  the  same  as  a  la  Colbert  (No.  1271),  by  slightly  detaching  the  fillets 
without  breaking  the  bone;  dip  them  in  milk  and  flour,  and  plunge  in  hot  frying  fat  to  cook;  when 
done  and  of  a  fine  color,  drain,  wipe,  salt,  and  dress  the  fish  on  a  napkin;  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  and  quartered  lemons. 

(1281).  STUFFED  SOLES— FILLETS  (Filets  de  Soles  Farcis). 

Spread  on  a  raised-edged  buttered  baking  sheet  a  layer  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  to  the 
thickness  of  half  an  inch,  smoothing  well  the  surface.  Take  twelve  fillets  of  soles,  not  too  large, 
pare  and  season  them  properly,  poach  these  slightly  in  asautoir  with  melted  butter;  drain  and  let 


464  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

get  partially  cold  under  a  light  weight;  pare  them  once  more  and  range  them  at  short  distances  from 
each  other  on  the  layer  of  forcemeat,  placing  them  on  the  poached  side.  Brush  over  with  melted 
butter  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven  as  well  as  the  forcemeat.  After  removing  the  pan  from 
the  oven,  cut  the  forcemeat  all  around  the  fillets  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  lift  one  after  the  other 
up  with  a  palette,  forcemeat  and  all,  and  dress  them  in  two  rows  on  a  long  dish,  one  overlapping 
the  other;  garnish  between  the  rows  with  poached  oysters  and  the  ends  with  a  bunch  of 
crawfish  tails.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  the  oysters  with  a  normande  sauce  (No.  509) 
serving  more  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1282).  SPOTTED  FISH  A  LA  LIVOUENAISE  (Spotted  Fish  a  la  Livournaise. 
Carefully  pare  some  fillets  taken  from  the  fish  into  half  hearts;  lay  them  on  a  buttered  dish 
and  cover  over  with  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  gravy  (No.  405)  and  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  the 
whole  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  very  succulent  sauce,  but  thin.  Besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs, 
sprinkle  over  with  oil.  and  bake  the  fish  in  a  hot  oven;  when  ready  to  serve,  bestrew  the  surface 
with  chopped  parsley  and  a  few  pounded  fennel  seeds. 

(1283).  SPOTTED  FISH,  ENGLISH  STYLE-FILLETS  (Filets  de  Spotted  Fish  a  1'Anglaise). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  three  small  spotted  fish,  each  one  weighing  from  three-quarters  to  one 
pound;  pare  and  season  them  with  salt,  oil,  lemon  juice  and  branches  of  parsley,  leaving  them 
marinate  in  this  for  half  an  hour.  Drain,  cut  shapely,  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  fresh 
bread-crumbs  and  finally  immerse  in  melted  butter;  broil  the  fillets  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  turning 
them  over  when  done.  Serve  with  a  hot  horseradish  sauce  (No.  478)  or  a  melted  maitre  d'hotel 
(No.  581). 

(1284).  SPOTTED  FISH,  MUSSEL  SAUCE— WHOLE  (Spotted  Fish  Entier  Sauce  aux  Moules). 

Spotted  fish  weighing  from  three  to  five  pounds  are  usually  excellent.  Empty,  scale  and  tie  down 
the  heads;  cooks  them  in  a  plain  court  bouillon  (No.  38),  and  at  the  first  boil,  remove  the  kettle  on 
one  side  to  allow  the  liquid  to  bubble  only  for  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes.  Drain  out  the  fish, 
dress  it  on  a  napkin,  surround  with  parsley,  also  balls  of  boiled  potatoes  three-quarter  inch  in 
diameter  and  Villeroi  mussels  (No.  698),  also  a  sauce-boat  of  normande  sauce  (No.  509).  The  fish 
can  also  be  cut  in  pieces,  simply  cooked  in  a  wine  court  bouillon  (No.  39)  and  served  the  same 
as  above. 

(1285).  SPOTTED  FISH,  QUEEN  SAUCE-FILLETS  (Filets  de  Spotted  Fish  Sauce  a  la  Eeine). 

Procure  a  very  fresh,  well  cleaned  fish  weighing  four  pounds;  remove  the  fillets,  skin,  pare, 
and  flatten  them  with  the  handle  of  a  knife,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  season  with  salt,  oil  and  lemon 
juice,  and  one  hour  after,  besprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  roll  in  flour.  Dip  them  in  eggs  beaten 
up  with  melted  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  turning  them 
over  when  done  on  one  side.  Serve  a  hot  queen  sauce  (No.  530)  separately. 

(1286).  SPOTTED  FISH,  WITH  GREEN  EAVIGOTE  SAUCE  (Spotted  Fish  a  la  Sauce  Eavigote  Verte\ 

Cut  from  twenty  to  twenty- four  aiguillettes  from  the  spotted  fish;  put  these  into  a  tureen  with 
salt,  mignonette,  branches  of  parsley,  a  bit  of  thyme,  bay  leaf,  basil,  a  little  tarragon  vinegar,  a  little 
good  oil,  six  shallots  and  two  cloves  of  garlic  both  finely  minced,  toss  them  about  frequently  in  their 
seasoning  so  that  they  become  thoroughly  impregnated.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  drain  and  roll 
them  in  flour.  Have  sufficient  sweet  oil  poured  into  a  frying  pan  to  bathe  the  entire  fish,  let  it  get 
very  hot,  then  plunge  into  it  the  slices  to  let  attain  a  fine  color  and  become  quite  crusty;  drain  and 
dress  them  in  a  pyramid  form.  Serve  separately  a  green  ravigote  sauce  (No.  531). 

(1287).  SPOTTED  FISH,  WITH  COUET  BOUILLON,  CALCUTTA  (Spotted  Fish  ail  Court-Bouillon, 

Calcutta). 

Cut  in  medium  size  Julienne  four  ounces  of  the  red  part  of  a  carrot,  and  half  as  much  celery 
root;  cut  up  as  many  mushrooms  as  there  is  celery,  but  keep  them  aside;  blanch  the  carrots  and 
celery  separately,  and  when  done,  drain,  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  to  cook  in  a  little  broth,  (No. 
194a)  letting  it  fall  to  a  glaze  several  times  and  eventually  mix  in  the  cut  up  mushrooms.  Lay  well 
cleaned  fish  in  a  narrow  fish  kettle,  cover  with  partially  cold  fish  court  bouillon  and  white  wine 


FISH.  465 

(No.  39)  heat  this  to  boiling  degree,  then  set  it  on  one  side  to  keep  the  liquid  quivering  for  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  the  size  of  the  fish.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  sieve,  skim  off  the 
fat,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze,  thickening  it  with  Indian  curry  sauce  (No.  456),  boil  it  up  once 
or  twice;  dress  the  fish  on  a  dish,  surround  it  with  the  vegetables  and  cover  with  a  part  of  the 
sauce,  serving  the  remainder  separately. 

(1288).  STUEGEON  PEIOANDEATJ,  WITH  SOEEEL  OK  WITH  GEEEN  PEAS  (Pricandeau 
d'Esturgeon  a  1'oseille  on  aux  Petits  Pois). 

Cut  a  fillet  of  sturgeon  from  the  middle  part  of  the  fish;  remove  the  skin,  pare,  and  if  too 
thick,  split  it  in  two  without  detaching  the  parts;  flatten  down  the  meat  and  lard  it  the  same  as 
for  a  veal  fricandeau,  then  season.  Line  a  flat  saucepan  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  minced  roots 
and  onions,  lay  the  fricandeau  on  top,  and  moisten  to  half  its  height  with  some  veal  blond  stock 
(No.  423);  set  the  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire  and  let  the  liquid  fall  very  slowly  to  a  glaze,  then 
moisten  it  once  more,  and  again  reduce  it  to  a  glaze,  and  finish  the  cooking  by  adding  a  very  little 
broth  at  a  time,  while  basting  it  constantly;  finally  glaze  the  fricandeau  in  the  oven.  Drain,  dress 
it  on  a  dish,  pour  its  own  stock  over  after  straining  and  skimming  it.  Serve  a  separate  garnish- 
ing of  either  sorrel  or  green  peas. 

(1289).  STUEGEON  OE  STEELET  WITH  QUENELLES  AND  OLIVES-SMALL  (Petit  Estnrgeon 

on  Sterlet  anx  Quenelles  et  Olives). 

Take  a  small  sturgeon  or  sterlet  weighing  eight  to  ten  pounds;  scale,  suppress  all  the  large  scales 
from  the  back  and  sides;  open  it  on  the  belly  side  in  order  to  empty  and  notch  the  inside  ligament, 
taking  the  place  of  the  spinal  bone,  at  equal  distances,  with  the  tip  of  a  knifef  then  tie  the  head 
down  with  a  string.  Place  the  fish  in  a  small  narrow  fish  kettle,  sufficiently  long,  garnish  with  fat 
pork,  minced  roots  and  onions,  salt,  and  cover  over  with  thin  slices  of  pork,  keeping  them  down 
in  their  place  with  some  string.  Moisten  to  half  the  height  with  white  wine  and  very  rich  veal 
blond  (No.  423);  boil  the  liquid  for  ten  minutes, ,  remove  it  on  one  side  so  as  to  cook  the 
fish  slowly  while  covered,  for  about  an  hour.  Drain  the  sturgeon,  untie,  then  strain  and  skim  the 
stock,  reducing  it  to  a  half-glaze,  and  incorporating  into  it  slowly  a  few  gills  of  a  good,  reduced 
brown  sauce  (No.  414),  finishing  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  then  strain  once  more.  At 
the  very  last  moment,  drain  the  fish,  place  on  a  dish,  and  surround  it  with  garnishing  of  quenelles 
and  stuffed  olives;  cover  with  some  of  the  sauce,  sending  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1290).  TEOUT  A  LA  BEAUFOET  (Traite  a  la  Beanfort). 

A  genus  of  fish  of  the  salmon  family,  all  their  species  being  carnivorous;  they  live  a  greater 
part  of  the  time  in  fresh  water,  generally  that  which  is  the  purest  and  the  most  rapid.  They  are 
very  highly  esteemed. 


FIG.  301. 


Trout  a  la  Beaufort.—  Draw  the  fish  through  the  gills  without  scaling  or  opening  the  belly; 
put  it  into  a  fish  boiler  with  two  gills  of  vinegar,  cold  water  and  half  a  bottle! ul  of  white  wine, 
salt  sliced  carrots  and  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  bring  the  liquid  to  a 
boil' while  removing  the  scum,  and  at  the  first  boil  set  it  on  one  side  to  keep  the  liquid  at  the  same 
degree  but  without  boiling  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes;  at  the  last  moment  drain  off  the  fish 
and  slide  it  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin,  dressing  it  on  its  side  and  not  on  the  belly, 
so  that  the  handsome  shading  of  its  skin  maybe  entirely  revealed;  rub  the  surface  over  with  a 
Diece  of  butter  to  prevent  the  skin  from  drying;  garnish  around  with  small  pike  quenelles  (No. 
90)  made  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  decorated  with  truffles;  lay  a  milt  or  roe  fried  in  butter  on 
the  sides  and  garnish  the  ends  with  fillets  of  flounders  scored  with  slices  of  truffles  and  stoned  olives. 
Cover  with  a  matelote  sauce  (No.  498)  and  send  to  the  table  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 


466  THE; 

(1291).  TROUT  A  LA  CAMBAOERES  (Truites  I  la  Oambac&fts), 

Dress  four  trout  each  one  weighing  three-quarters  of  a  pound,  suppressing  the  gills  and  entrails, 
put  them  into  a  small  fish  boiler  (Fig.  135),  moisten  just  to  their  heighth  with  a  mirepoix  stock  with 
white  wine  (No.  419)  and  cover  the  kettle,  let  come  to  a  boil,  and  when  cooked  drain  off  the  liquid 
and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  syrup,  add  to  it  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  half  inch 
balls  of  truffles,  green  olives  and  small  mushroom  heads,  also  Madeira  wine,  a  pinch  of  cayenne  and 
a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  passed  through  a  very  fine  sieve.  At  the  last  moment  stir  in  a  piece 
of  fresh  butter,  dress  the  trout,  surround  with  the  garnishing,  cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce, 
serving  the  remainder  separately. 

(1292).  TKOUT  A  1'HOTELIERE  (Truites  a  I'Hoteliere). 

Have  one  fish  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  for  each  person,  split  it  through  the  entire 
length  of  the  back;  take  out  the  middle  bone  and  lay  it  on  the  flesh  side  on  a  buttered  dish, 
pour  over  some  oil,  season,  and  set  into  a  quick  oven;  when  done  put  inside  each  trout  a  spoon- 
ful of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581),  close,  dress  and  garnish  with  potatoes,  English  style.  (These 
English  potatoes  are  potatoes  cut  the  same  size  and  shape  as  a  pigeon's  egg,  then  steamed  for 
about  fifteen  minutes.;  Serve  a  separate  sauce  made  of  espagnole  (No.  414)  and  meat  glaze  (No. 
402),  finishing  it  at  the  last  moment  with  a  piece  of  good  butter  and  lemon  juice;  run  it  through  a 
tammy,  then  add  chopped  parsley. 

(1293).  TROUT  A  LA  HUSSARDE  (Truites  a  la  HussardeX 

Each  trout  to  weigh  a  quarter  of  a  pound;  split  them  through  the  entire  back,  take  out  the 
middle  bone  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  oil  and  lemon 
juice;  two  hours  later  lift  them  out  of  their  marinade.  Mix  into  some  fresh  butter  a  quarter  as 
much  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  garnish  the  inside  of  the  fish  with  this,  and  wrap  them  up  in  a 
sheet  of  buttered  double  paper,  put  them  to  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then  un- 
wrap and  dress  over  a  white  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522). 

(1294).  TROUT  A  LA  JOAN  01  ARC  (Truites  a  la  Jeanne  d'Arc). 

Remove  the  fillets  and  skin  from  several  quarter  of  a  pound  trout,  put  them  in  a  dish,  season- 
ing with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  bay  leaf,  parsley  and  minced  onions,  let  marinate  for  two  hours, 
then  take  out  and  dip  into  melted  butter,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  the  fire,  dress, 
sprinkle  with  cayenne  butter  (No.  571)  and  serve  separately  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  finished 
with  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  and  lemon  juice;  strain  through  a  tammy. 

(1295).  TROUT  A  LA  MEUNIERE  (Truites  a  la  Meuniere). 

Procure  several  four-ounce  trout,  scale,  draw  and  season,  cut  an  incision  on  the  thickest  part 
of  the  fillet,  roll  the  fish  in  flour.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  frying  pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  lay  in 
the  trout  and  cook  while  turning  them  over,  drain  and  dress  on  a  dish  leaving  the  butter  in  the 
pan,  and  to  it  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter;  cook  this  to  hazelnut  (No.  567),  then  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  put  into  it  a  coffeespoonful  of  anchovy  essence  or  a  piece  of  anchovy  butter 
(No.  569)  to  let  it  froth,  then  gradually  add  two  or  three  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar;  when  hot  throw 
in  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  and  pour  this  butter  over  the  very  hot  fish. 

(1296).  TROUT  A  LA  MONTAGNARDE  (Truites  Ua  Montagnarde). 

Score  some  fine  trout,  lay  them  in  salt  for  one  hour,  then  shake  them  out,  put  the  fish  into  a 
fish  boiler,  moisten  with  white  wine  and  a  little  water,  add  branches  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf, 
cloves,  garlic  and  basil.  Let  cook  and  when  done,  drain  the  fish  and  strain  the  stock,  reduce  and 
thicken  with  kneaded  butter  (No.  579),  skim  the  surface  and  strain  it  again  through  a  tammy,  add 
some  blanched  parsley  leaves,  then  pour  this  sauce  over  the  trout. 

(1297).  TROUT  AU  BLEU— SMALL  (Petites  Truites  au  Bleu). 

Small  brook  trout  live  where  the  water  is  rapid  and  pure.  There  exist  certain  reservoirs,  for 
instance  at  the  Saratoga  Club,  where  each  day  the  fisherman  bring  the  product  of  their  catch,  so 
that  amateurs  of  good  fish  may  always  have  on  hand  trout  to  be  killed  just  when  ready  to  use; 
this  is  an  excellent  method  to  bring  out  all  the  good  qualities  of  its  meat. 


FISH.  467 

The  various  ways  of  cooking  this  fish  are  most  simple ,  kill  the  trout  by  knocking  their  heads 
against  a  hard  substance,  open  the  belly  to  draw,  clip  off  the  gills  and  wash  out  the  inside.  Plunge 
into  boiling  water,  salted  and  acidulated  with  vinegar,  and  as  soon  as  it  reboils,  remove  the  sauce- 
pan to  the  side  of  the  fire  to  keep  the  liquid  in  a  bubbling  state  only  for  fifteen  minutes.  Drain 
the  trout,  dress  it  on  a  napkin,  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  potatoes.  Serve  at  the  same  time 
fresh  and  melted  butter.  Cooked  in  this  manner  the  trout  may  become  twisted  and  broken,  but 
this  does  not  interfere  with  its  good  quality. 

(1298).  TROUT,  OOOKED  IN  COUET  BOUILLON  AND  .SERVED  WITH  DIFFERENT  SAUCES 

(Truites  Cuites  au  Court  Bouillon  et  Servies  avec  Differentes  Sauces). 

Prepare  a  stock  with  white  wine  and  carrots,  onions,  celery  root,  all  well  shredded,  salt,  pep- 
percorns, and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  half  a  clove  of  garlic.  Let  the  liquid  boil  until 
the  roots  are  pretty  nearly  done,  then  strain  it.  Lay  in  a  narrow  saucepan  four  medium  sized 
clean  trout,  moisten  them  to  just  their  height  with  the  strained  stock,  cover  and  cook  slowly;  when 
done  dress  them  on  a  dish,  strain  the  stock,  remove  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half -glaze  adding  to 
it  an  equal  quantity  of  Valliere  sauce  (No.  553),  or  a  Genoise  sauce  (No.  470)  or  a  Genevoise  sauce 
(No.  469),  or  gourmets  sauce  (No.  472),  or  a  well  buttered  bechamel  cream  sauce  (No.  409),  into 
which  has  been  added  a  little  anchovy  essence.  Cover  the  trout  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve 
the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1299).  TROUT,  FRIED-SMALL  (Petites  Truites  Frites). 

Have  some  small  two  ounce  trout,  split  open  the  bellies  to  empty,  scrape  lightly  and  wipe 
them  on  a  cloth;  season  with  salt,  score  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Shape  them  into  rings  by  passing 
the  tails  through  the  gills  and  tying;  plunge  a  few  at  the  time  into  hot  frying  fat,  let  cook  for 
eight  to  ten  minutes,  then  salt,  remove  the  strings,  and  dress  them  on  napkins  with  fried  parsley 
on  top,  and  slices  of  lemon  around. 

(1300).  TROUT,  LAUSANNE  STYLE  (Truites  a  la  Mode  de  Lausanne). 

Clean  well  twelve  small  trout  each  weighing  four  ounces.  Fry  in  butter  two  ounces  of  onions 
and  four  ounces  of  mushrooms  both  finely  but  separately  chopped  up;  put  this  into  a  baking  dish 
lay  the  fish  on  top  and  moisten  with  white  wine;  sprinkle  over  with  fresh  butter  and  let  cook  in  a 
hot  oven;  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  strain  the  stock  into  a  saucepan,  reduce  it  with  veloute  sauce 
(No.  415)  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  into  the  sauce  some  butter  and  lemon-juice; 
strain  through  a  tammy  and  add  chopped  parsley;  pour  it  over  the  trout  previously  dressed  on  a 
dish. 

(1301).  TROUT,  STUFFED  (Truites  Farcies). 

Draw  four  trout  by  the  gills,  each  fish  to  weigh  half  a  pound;  wipe  well  the  insides,  and  fill  the 
belly  with  a  paste  made  of  fresh  butter,  white  bread-crumbs,  parsley,  onion,  and  mushrooms,  all 
finely  chopped.  Season,  then  roll  each  one  in  a  separate  sheet  of  oiled  paper;  lay  them  on  a  baking 
dish  containing  melted  butter,  and  let  cook  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  turn- 
ing and  basting  them  frequently.  Wrap  and  dress  them  on  a  dish;  serve  with  their  own  butter, 
and  slices  of  lemon  ranged  around  in  a  circle. 

(1302).  SALMON  TROUT— A  L' ANTOINETTE  (Truite  Saumonee  —a  1'Antoinette). 

This  fish  has  the  color  and  taste  of  the  salmon.  Toward  the  middle  of  spring  it  leaves  the 
ocean  to  ascend  the  rivers;  this  trout  is  easily  digested  and  is  of  an  exquisite  flavor.  Our  Ameri- 
can species  is  very  inferior  in  quality  to  those  of  Europe;  they  are  much  larger,  and  their 
meat  not  as  red,  nor  can  the  taste  be  compared;  therefore  epicures  are  generally  disappointed  when 
eating  our  salmon  trout. 

A  r Antoinette.— Score  the  fish  and  marinate  it  in  salt,  mignonette,  lemon  juice,  chopped 
onions,  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay  leaf.  Drain  and  roll  it  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  and  finally  in 
bread-crumbs;  fry  in  clarified  butter,  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce  made  as  follows.  Have  one 
pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  incorporate  into  it  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  569),  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg;  heat  and  thicken  with  two  egg-yolks  and  cream,  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  and  serve 
with  capers  and  shrimp  tails. 


468  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1303).  TUNNY  PISH  OE  HOESE  MAOKEEEL-PEIED-WITH  AEEOWEOOT  MAYONNAISE 
SAUCE  (Thon  Prit  a  la  Sauce  Mayonnaise  a  1'Arrowroot). 

Lift  the  fillets  from  a  young  tunny  fish  or  from  a  horse  mackerel,  suppress  the  skin  and  from 
the  meats  cut  some  lenthwise  slices  or  aiguillettes,  lay  these  on  a  dish  to  season  with  salt,  migno- 
nette, slices  of  onions,  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  oil  and  vinegar.  Leave  to  marinate  for 
two  hours,  then  drain  and  wipe  dry,  dip  them  in  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  to  a  good  color; 
drain  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  placing  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top.  Serve  separately 
arrowroot  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  611). 

(1304)  CANADIAN  TUEBOT  A  LA  D'OELEANS  (Turbot  Canadien  a  la  d'Orleans), 
Eaise  the  fillets  and  skin  from  the  fish;  trim  and  pare  into  half  hearts,  then  lay  them  in  a  but- 
tered sautoir;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  adding  butter  and  white  wine,  then  cook  it 
over  a  hot  fire,  basting  frequently  while  cooking.  Dress  on  a  decorated  forcemeat  border  and  fill 
in  the  inside  with  mushroom  heads,  crawfish  tails  and  slices  of  truffle  between  each  fillet.  Make  a 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  the  stock  and  cream,  run  it  through  a  tammy  and  pour  half  of  it 
over  the  fish,  serving  the  other  half  in  a  sauce-boat 

(1305).  CANADIAN  TUEBOT  A  LA  HOUSTON  (Turbot  Oanadien  a  la  HoustonN, 
Pare  the  fillets  cut  from  a  turbot  into  half  hearts;  range  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  seasoning 
with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  finely  chopped  shallots  and  butter;  moisten  with  white  wine,  then  cook 
in  a  slow  oven,  drain  the  stock,  reduce  and  add  it  to  a  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  thickened 
with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter.  Dress  the  fish  on  a  buttered  baking  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce 
and  dredge  over  grated  Swiss  cheese;  besprinkle  with  melted  butter  and  brown  in  a  brisk  oven, 
then  serve. 

(1306).  CANADIAN  TUEBOT  A  LA  MEEOIEE  (Turbot  Oanadien  a  la  Mercier). 

A  turbot  having  a  dark  skin  on  both  sides  and  the  shape  of  chicken  halibut;  when  dressed 
and  clean,  split  it  through  the  back,  butter  a  small  raised-edged  dish,  a  little  larger  than  the  fish; 
cover  the  bottom  with  shallots,  mushrooms  and  parsley,  all  finely  chopped,  and  lay  the  fish  on 
top,  season  and  moisten  to  its  height  with  a  good  cold  court  bouillon  with  white  wine  (No.  39);  let 
the  liquid  boil  for  ten  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire;  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and 
finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven,  basting  it  frequently.  After  removing  besprinkle  with  chopped 
parsley,  and  serve  it  on  the  same  dish  surrounded  with  cysters  a  la  Villeroi  (No. 


(1307).  ENGLISH  TUEBOT  WITH  OAPEE  SAUCE  (Turbot  Anglais  Sauce  aux  Capres). 

Select  a  very  fresh  turbot  with  thick  and  white  meat,  scale  and  draw,  then  soak  it 
for  one  hour  in  cold  water  containing  a  quarter  as  much  milk.  Lay  it  on  the  drainer  of  a  fish 
kettle  with  some  salt,  and  moisten  with  fresh  water  mixed  with  white  wine  or  vinegar;  let  boil 
very  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Drain  the  turbot,  rub  the  white  surface  with  a  piece  of 
butter  and  dress,  surrounding  it  with  branches  of  parsley  and  balls  of  boiled  potatoes  three  quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Serve  separately  a  white  sauce  (No.  562);  finished  just  when  ready  to  serve 
with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  and  capers,  or  else  serve  a  mussel  sauce  instead  of  caper  (No.  506). 

(1308).  WEAKFISH  A  LA  BEIGHTON  (Weakfish  a  la  Brighton). 

Pare  some  fillets  of  weakfish,  after  suppressing  their  bones  and  skin,  trim  them  heart-shaped, 
lay  them  in  a  buttered  dish  with  finely  shredded  chives,  truffles  and  mushrooms;  moisten  with 
white  wine  and  oyster  liquor,  adding  a  liberal  piece  of  butter.  When  the  fish  is  done,  strain, 
reduce  the  stock  with  well-seasoned  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  just  when  serving  stir  in  some  fresh 
butter,  lemon  juice  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  small  blanched  oysters.  Dress  the  fish,  garnish  with 
the  oysters  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1309),  WEAKPISH  A  LA  PONTIGNY  (Weakfish  a  la  Pontigny). 

Eaise  the  fillets  from  weakfish;  pare  them  into  oval  shaped  slices  and  lay  in  a  buttered  sautoir; 
moisten  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  with  red  wine,  and  let  come  to  a  boil,  then  set  the  pan  into 
the  oven;  when  the  fish  is  cooked,  drain  off  the  stock,  and  reduce  it  with  an  equal  quanity  of 


FISH.  469 

espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  adding  a  garnishing  of  mushrooms, round  soubise  quenelles,  crawfish  tails 
or  else  shrimps.  Dress  the  slices  overlapping  with  the  garnishing  around  and  reduce  well  the 
sauce;  stir  into  it  some  maitre  d' hotel  butter  (No.  581),  pour  it  over,  and  surround  the  whole  with 
crotuons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(1310).  WHITEBAIT  PEIED  GREENWICH  STYLE  AND  DEVILED  (Blanchaille  Frite  a  la  Mode 

de  Greenwich  et  a  la  Diable). 

The  season  for  whitebait  is  June,  July,  and  August;  it  somewhat  resembles  the  small 
coalfish. 

Whitebait  Fried. — Lay  the  fish  on  ice  for  twenty  minutes  previous  to  serving;  roll  them  in  a 
towel  with  a  handful  of  flour;  shake  and  then  toss  them  in  a  very  coarse  sieve  to  remove  the 
superfluous  flour;  plunge  them  into  very  hot  frying  fat.  One  minute  will  suffice  to  cook  them; 
drain  and  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  serve. 

Whitebait,  Greenwich  Style. — To  fry  whitebait  is  to  dry  them  in  a  towel  to  absorb  all  their 
moisture,  then  roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry  in  very  hot  frying  fat;  when  crisp,  drain  on  a  napkin  and 
dress  on  a  very  hot  dish.  Send  to  the  table  accompanied  with  slices  of  brown  or  white  bread  cut 
very  thin  and  buttered,  also  quartered  lemons;  serve  at  the  same  time  a  pepper-caster  containing 
cayenne  pepper. 

Deviled  Whitebait. — Dip  them  in  milk,  lay  them  on  a  dish  containing  mustard  and  cayenne 
pepper,  then  in  cracker  dust,  and  fry  in  very  white  beef  kidney  suet,  drain,  and  salt.  Dress  on 
a  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top.  Serve  separately,  slices  of  brown  or  fresh  graham  bread  cut 
exceedingly  thin  and  buttered. 

(1311).  WHITEFISH  A  LA  GEEHAEDI  (Lavaret  a  la  Gerhardi), 

Split  a  whitefish  in  two  along  the  spinal  bone;  remove  this,  then  season.  Lay  the  fish  on  a 
buttered  dish,  moisten  with  white  wine,  add  chopped  up  onions,  then  let  cook  to  reduce  the  liquid 
to  the  consistency  of  a  half -glaze;  mix  into  it  a  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477).  Dress  the  fish  and 
surround  it  with  blanched  oysters,  mushrooms  and  shrimp  tails;  pour  two-thirds  of  the  sauce  over, 
and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1312).  WHITEFISH,  PIMENTADE  SAUCE  (Lavaret  Sauce  Pimentade). 
Raise  the  fillets  from  the  whitefish,  pare  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.     Coat 
them  over  with  sweet  oil,  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire;  dress  on  a  hot  dish,  and  surround  with  slices 
of  lemon.    Serve  a  separate  pimentade  sauce  (No.  521). 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


BEEF  (Boeuf ). 


(1313).  BARON  OP  BEEF  A  LA  ST.  GEORGE  (Selle  de  Boeuf  a  la  St.  George). 
The  baron  of  beef  weighs  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  It  is  the  saddle  of  beef  cut 
from  the  hip  of  a  young  and  tender  ox  as  far  down  as  the  second  rib,  this  being  pared  and  the 
thinnest  part  covered  with  slices  of  fat  so  as  to  have  the  meat  of  uniform  thickness  and  cooked 
alike  throughout.  It  takes  about  five  hours  to  cook  a  baron  of  beef  in  a  baker's  brick  oven,  the 
best  to  use  for  large  pieces  of  this  description,  after  being  cooked  they  should  be  put  in  a  heater  or 
warm  place,  for  about  two  hours,  to  finish  cooking  slowly.  "When  cooked  arrange  it  on  a  large 
dish,  garnishing  on  the  edges  with  shavings  of  horseradish  (No.  98)  and  the  ends  with  Yorkshire 
pudding  (No.  770).  Serve  thickened  gravy  (No.  405)  well  skimmed  and  strained  through  a  fint 
sieve,  in  a  separate  sauce-boat,  also  some  baked  potatoes. 

(1314).  BREAST  OR  BRISKET  01  BEEF  A  LA  FLORENCE  (Poitrine  ou  Bavette  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Florence). 

The  name  of  brisket  is  applied  to  the  part  of  the  beef  adjoining  the  cross  ribs,  and  the 
neck.  If  the  beef  be  of  a  good  quality,  the  plate  or  brisket  makes  an  excellent  and  economical 
boil,  the  meat  being  juicy  and  interlarded  with  fat  giving  it  a  very  good  flavor. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  warm,  add  half  a  pound  of  lean 
bacon  and  half  a  pound  of  ham  cut  into  squares  of  a  half  of  an  inch.  When  the  bacon  and  ham 
are  well  browned,  add  four  ounces  of  onions  cut  into  an  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  two  pounds 
of  brisket  of  beef  well  freed  from  fat,  boned  and  cut  into  one  inch  squares.  Add  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
also  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  small  clove  of  garlic,  two  cloves,  two  celery  heads  cut  in  quarters  and 
trimmed  and  some  stewed  tomatoes.  Moisten  with  a  little  broth  (No.  194a),  cook  for  two  hours  and 
a  half,  adding  a  little  more  broth  at  times,  and  serve  on  a  dish  garnished  around  with  gastro- 
nome potatoes  (No.  2789). 

(1315).  CORNED  BREAST  OP  BEEF  WITH  CABBAGE  (Poitrine  de  Boeuf  Sale"  aux  Ohoux). 

Lay  a  breast  of  beef  in  a  brine  of  half  salt,  and  set  it  in  a  cold  room,  leaving  it  for  twelve 
days.  Unsalt  it  for  two  hours,  then  put  the  meat  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water.  Let  it  boil, 
skimming  it  occasionally,  and  place  it  on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  several  hours,  or  until 
the  meat  be  thoroughly  cooked.  Blanch  two  or  three  cabbages,  cut  them  in  quarters,  remove  the 
hard  centers,  called  the  core,  and  two  hours  before  serving  put  the  cabbage  in  with  the  beef.  When 
the  meat  is  done  properly,  drain,  and  arrange  it  on  a  dish,  garnishing  it  round  with  the  cabbage, 
put  some  boiled  potatoes  at  either  end,  and  serve  a  little  good  gravy  separately. 


472 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


BEEF,  AMEEICAN  OUTS  (Breuf  Coupe  a  rAmericaiiie). 

•  i 

*i 


(Fio.  308.) 


1.  Head. 

2.  Beef  jowl. 

3.  Neck. 

4.  Brisket. 

5.  Cross  ribs. 

6.  Shin. 

7.  Chuck  ribs. 

8.  Plates. 


9. 
10. 
11. 


Navel. 
Inside  flank. 
Thick  flank. 
12.  Six  Prime  ribs,  A  first  cut, 

B  second  cut,  C  third. 
Short  loin. 
Hip. 
Round. 


13. 
14. 
15. 


16.  Aitchbone  rump. 


17.  Round  bottom. 

18.  Leg  of  beef. 

19.  Butt. 

20.  Oxtail. 

21.  Horseshoe  legs. 

22.  Hip  and  loin. 

23.  Whole  chuck. 

24.  Round  top. 


BEEP  FEENOH  OUTS  (Bceuf  Coupe  a  la  Franpaise). 


\2-     /'\ 

^> 
I            \ 

14-  /          \ 
/    \3        \ 

10 

8 

;       I  ' 

\\ 

1 

b    /  3 

"""          y 

•'  I  

\      ^L3 

2.\ 

20 

1.  Culotte. 

2.  Tranches  petit  os. 

3.  Milieu  du  gite  a  la  noix. 

4.  Derriere  du  gite  a  la  noix. 

5.  Tendre    de    tranches     inte"- 

rieure. 

6.  Tranche   grasse  inte'rieure. 

7.  Piece  ronde  partie  interieure. 

8.  Aloyau  avec  filet. 

9.  Bavette  d' Aloyau. 


i     2.4- 


(FiG.  303.) 

10.  Cotes  Couvertes,  a  la  noix.  19. 

11.  Plat  de  Cotes.  20. 

12.  Surlonge  partie  inte"rieure.  21. 

13.  Derriere  de  paleron.  22. 

14.  Talon  de  Collier.  23. 
Bande  de  M^lcreuse.  24. 
Milieu  de  Macreuse  dans  le  25. 

paleron.  26. 

17.  Boite  a  molele.  27. 

18.  Collier. 


Plat  de  joue. 

Flanchet. 

Milieu  de  poitriue. 

Cros  bout. 

Queue  degite. 

Gite  de  devant. 

Cros  du  gite  de  devant. 

Gite  de  derriere. 

Cros  du  gite  de  derriere. 


BEEF. 


473 


BEEF  AMERICAN  CUTS. 


Leg  of  Beef 


/Round  Bottom 


Tail 


Round  Top 


Flank 


Navel-- 


Plate.. 


Brisket-- 


(1316).  COENED  BOUND  BOTTOM,   TOP,   ENGLISH  STYLE  (Noix  de  Boeuf  Sal&  Ecarlate  a 

1'Anglaise). 

Bone  and  prick  the  meat  with  a  larding  needle,  rub  it  over  with  pulverized  saltpetre, 
salt,  and  brown  sugar,  then  put  it  in  an  earthern  vessel  or  a  wooden  tub,  pouring  over  a  brine 
prepared  as  follows:  Throw  a  potato  into  salted  water;  when  it  rises  to  the  surface  it  is  an 
indication  that  the  brine  is  sufficiently  strong;  pour  enough  of  this  over  the  meat  to  cover  entirely 
and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  where  the  thermometer  does  not  register  above  forty  degrees,  leaving 
it  for  fifteen  days,  and  carefully  turning  the  meat  over  at  various  intervals.  When  ready  to  be 
used,  drain  the  corned  beef,  wash,  then  boil  in  plenty  of  water.  For  a  six-pound  piece  it  will 
take  about  two  hours  and  a  half.  After  cooking  for  one  hour,  add  to  it  a  pudding  made  of  flour 
and  beef  suet,  also  cabbage,  onions,  and  pared  carrots  and  turnips.  Three-quarters  of  an  hour 
before  serving,  throw  in  some  medium  sized  peeled  potatoes;  range  the  corned  meat  on  a  dish, 
garnish  around  with  the  cabbage,  carrots,  turnips,  and  onions  arranged  in  clusters,  and  at  the 


474  THE    EPICUREAN. 

ends  place  the  pudding  cut  into  slices.  Pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 
The  quantity  of  water  requisite  to  cook  the  corned  beef  depends  entirely  upon  the  quantity  of  salt 
used,  and  the  length  of  time  the  beef  was  in  the  brine;  if  the  beef  is  very  salty,  it  will  require 
more  water  than  otherwise,  and  it  is  even  advisable  to  change  it  after  the  first  boil. 

(1317).  EDGffiBONE  OR  AITCHBONE,  BOILED  OEEAM  HORSERADISH  SAUCE  (Quasi  de  Bceuf 

bouilli  Sauce  Raifort  a  la  Creme), 

Edgebone  or  aitchbone,  is  a  bone  of  the  rump  which  in  dressed  beef  presents  itself  in  view 
edgewise;  it  is  also  called  aitchbone. 

Have  a  piece  of  the  edgebone  weighing  twelve  pounds;  put  it  in  a  soup  pot  capable  of 
holding  twice  the  quantity  the  size  of  the  meat.  Cover  with  some  good  broth  (No.  194a),  place  it 
on  the  hot  fire  to  bring  to  a  boil,  salt  to  taste,  skim  well,  and  add  two  pounds  of  carrots,  or  four 
medium  sized  ones,  two  fine  turnips,  a  four  ounce  onion  stuck  with  two  cloves,  six  leeks,  half  a 
medium  sized  parsnip,  a  small  handful  of  celery  and  one  cabbage.  Simmer  slowly  for  three  or 
four  hours,  and  when  the  meat  is  cooked,  drain  and  dish  it  up,  laying  the  carrots  and  turnips  cut 
into  pieces,  also  the  cabbage  nicely  trimmed,  around  the  sides,  and  green  sprigs  of  parsley  at  the 
ends.  Serve  separately  a  cream  horseradish  sauce  (No.  478). 

(1318).  KTJLASH  A  LA  PINNOISE  (Guylas  a  la  linnoise). 

Cut  a  pound  of  trimmed  tenderloin  of  beef  in  inch  squares,  also  two  ounces  of  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  squares  of  onions.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan,  and  when  hot,  add  first  the 
onions  and  then  the  beef;  season  with  salt  and  paprika  (a  Hungarian  pepper),  moisten  with  a 
little  good  gravy  (No.  404),  and  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  adding  a  little  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414). 

Another  way  is  to  use  a  pound  of  lean  tenderloin,  cut  in  inch  squares,  half  a  pound  of  the  breast 
of  bacon  cut  in  half  inch  squares,  a  pound  of  potatoes  cut  in  half  inch  squares,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  onions  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  frying  them  in  half  a  pound  of  butter.  Put  in  first  the 
beef,  then  the  potatoes,  salt,  pepper,  and  spice,  add  a  pint  of  good  gravy  (No.  404),  cover  hermeti- 
cally, and  cook  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 

(1319).  MARROW  BONES  ON  TOAST  (Moelle  sur  Croutes  Grilles). 

Scrape  and  clean  well  some  marrow  bones  (the  best  marrow  bones  are  found  in  the  round, 
the  second  best  in  the  hind  legs).  Saw  them  off  in  three  and  a  half  inch  length  pieces;  wrap  them 
in  a  cloth,  and  plunge  them  in  boiling  broth;  let  it  continue  to  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain 
and  serve  the  bones  containing  the  marrow  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  slices  of  toasted  bread 
separately,  or  take  out  the  marrow,  and  serve  it  on  slices  of  toast  without  the  bones. 

(1320).  OXTAILS  A  LA  OASTELLANE  (Queues  de  Bceuf  a  la  Castellane). 

Cut  some  large  oxtails  in  three  inch  lengths,  soak  for  an  hour,  drain,  and  blanch  the 
pieces  for  half  an  hour,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water.  Mask  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with 
fragments  of  bacon,  roots,  and  sliced  onions.  Put  the  pieces  of  tails  on  top,  and  moisten  with 
sufficient  broth  to  cover  them  entirely;  boil  the  liquid,  skim,  and  let  simmer  slowly  for  three  hours. 
Drain  them,  trim,  and  return  to  the  saucepan;  strain  and  remove  the  fat  from  the  broth,  pour  it  over 
the  tails,  and  finish  cooking  slowly  for  one  hour.  Braise  some  whole  chestnuts  (No.  654),  and  when, 
done,  arrange  the  oxtails  pyramid  form  on  a  dish,  surround  by  the  braised  chestnuts,  reduce  the 
stock  with  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  some  blanched  celery  cut  into  quarter  of  an  inch 
squares;  when  it  is  cooked  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(1321))  OXTAILS  X  LA  OHIPOLATA  (Queues  de  Bceuf  a  la  Chipolata). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  oxtails  the  same  as  indicated  in  oxtails  a  la  castellane  (No.  1320),  glaze 
them  with  meat  glaze,  dish  them,  garnishing  around  with  broiled  sausages  a  la  Chipolata  (No. 
754),  some  braised  salt  pork  cut  in  squares,  some  small  glazed  onions  (No.  2765),  balls  of  carrots, 
whole  chestnuts,  celery  roots  cut  in  cloves  of  garlic  form,  and  some  mushroom  heads;  the  vege- 
tables blanched  and  cooked  separately  in  the  oxtail  broth.  Pour  over  this  same  broth  free  of  all  its 
fat,  and  reduced  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  Madeira. 


BEEF.  475 

(1322).  OXTAILS  ALSATIAN  STYLE  (Queues  de    Boeuf  a  1'Alsacienne). 

Cut  the  oxtail  at  a  joint  of  the  bone  in  three  inch  lengths.  Soak  them  in  lukewarm  water  for 
one  hour,  changing  the  water  twice  during  the  time,  then  throw  them  in  cold  water,  and  drain. 
Mask  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  fragments  of  ham  and  bacon,  roots  and  sliced  onions;  set  the 
pieces  of  oxtail  on  top,  and  cover  them  up  entirely  with  broth  leaving  the  fat  on,  and  a  little  brandy. 
Four  hours  before  dinner  boil  the  liquid,  skim,  then  set  the  pot  in  the  oven  to  finish.  When  ready, 
strain  the  broth  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  remove  all  the  fat,  and  let  it  rest  quietly  without  stirring. 
Decant  it  carefully,  pouring  it  over  the  oxtails,  and  leave  it  until  nearly  cold,  then  lift  them  out; 
trim  the  pieces  and  dip  them  in  melted  butter.  Roll  them  in  fresh  bread-crumbs  and  broil  them 
on  a  very  slow  fire.  Arrange  them  over  some  cooked  sauerkraut  (No.  2819),  garnishing  the  dish, 
and  serving  a  good  gravy  separate. 


(1323).  PEIED  OXTAILS  (Queues  de  Boeuf  Prites). 

Select  in  preference  the  thickest  end  of  six  oxtails,  cut  them  in  pieces  three  inches  long,  so  as 
to  strike  the  joints.  Soak  them  for  one  hour,  drain,  then  throw  them  into  boiling,  salted  water, 
and  let  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  again,  and  set  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pound  of  onions, 
and  two  pounds  of  carrots,  all  cut  into  slices,  three  quarts  of  broth,  two  garnished  bou- 
quets, salt  and  pepper;  let  boil  slowly  for  three  hours  and  a  half;  by  that  time  they  should  be  well 
done,  if  not,  let  them  continue  boiling  longer.  When  cooked,  put  them  in  an  earthen  dish,  strain 
the  broth  over  the  meat;  and  when  three  quarters  cold,  drain,  dip  them  in  eggs,  then  in  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  them  in  very  hot  fat  until  they  attain  a  good  color.  Serve  a  tomato  sauce  (No. 
549«),  at  the  same  time  but  separately. 

(1324).  OXTAILS  HOOHEPOT  (Queues  de  Bceuf  Hochepot). 

Divide  the  oxtails  at  the  joints  of  the  bone  on  the  thick  end,  while  at  the  thin  end  leave  two 
joints  together.  Soak  them  in  warm  water  for  one  hour,  changing  it  several  times,  then  drain 
and  wipe  them,  and  lay  them  in  a  brazier  lined  with  slices  of  bacon  and  ham.  Moisten  with  suffi- 
cient mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  to  cover  them  entirely,  adding  a  gill  of  brandy,  an  onion,  a  carrot,  a 
garnished  bouquet,  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg.  Four  hours  before  serving  let  it  come  to  a  boil 
on  a  very  hot  fire,  then  cover  and  let  simmer  on  one  side  for  three  hours.  Strain  the  broth  through 
a  fine  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  half-glaze,  then  pour  it  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  pieces  of  well  trimmed  oxtails.  Simmer,  then  turn  it  on  a  dish,  arranging  it 
high,  and  garnish  it  round  with  clusters  of  pear-shaped  pieces  of  glazed  carrots,  the  same  of  turnips, 
some  small  onions,  chestnuts,  celery  root,  all  cooked  separately  in  a  little  broth,  and  left  to  glaze. 
Add  to  the  garnish  some  green  pickles  cut  and  shaped  like  olives. 

(1325).  OXTAILS  WITH  VEGETABLES  (Queues  de  Boeuf  aux  Legumes). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  oxtails  as  explained  in  a  la  Hochepot  (No.  1324),  only  adding  half  a 
pound  more  of  salt  pork.  When  the  meat  is  cooked,  dish  it  up  with  the  salt  pork  as  garnishing, 
also  carrots,  turnips,  celery  knobs,  all  blanched  and  cooked  in  the  broth,  and  two  clusters  of 
braised  cabbage.  Strain,  skim,  and  reduce  the  broth  so  as  to  have  it  succulent,  then  pour  some 
of  it  over  the  dish,  and  send  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 


(1326).  BEEF  PALATES  A  LA  BECHAMEL  (Palais  de  Boeuf  a  la  Be~chamel). 

Remove  the  black  parts  from  twelve  beef  palates;  soak  them  in  warm  water,  adding  a  little 
salt.  Place  them  on  a  slow  fire  and  when  the  white  skin  can  be  detached,  then  drain  and  scrape 
them  with  a  knife  in  order  to  remove  properly  the  skin  adhering  to  the  palate.  Throw  them  as 
soon  as  done  into  cold  water,  then  drain  them,  and  put  them  to  cook  in  some  broth  (No.  194a), 
adding  a  bunch  of  parsley,  finely  minced  carrots,  onions  stuck  with  cloves.  Leave  them  to  cook 
for  five  or  six  hours,  then  drain  and  lay  them  under  a  weight.  Cut  them  in  one  and  a  quarter 
inch  squares,  then  prepare  a  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  neither  too  thick  nor  too  thin,  warm  the 
palates  in  the  sauce,  season  with  salt  and  ground  pepper,  and  stir  in  a  piece  of  butter  just  wnen 
ready  to  serve. 


476  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1327).  BEEF  PALATES  BAKED,  OHEVREUSE  (Palais  de  Bceuf  an  Gratia  a  la  Chevreuse). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  palates  the  same  as  for  a  la  bechamel  (No.  1326);  put  under  a  weight, 
xhen  cold  cut  them  into  squares  four  by  two  and  one-half  inches.  Cover  each  piece  with  a  layer 
of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  roll  them  up,  and  arrange  them  in  but- 
tered tin  rings  two  and  one-half  inches  high  by  one  and  three-quarters  inches  in  diameter.  Put 
them  in  a  sautoir  moistened  with  veal  blond  (No.  423).  Set  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  twenty 
minutes,  unmold  and  dress  crown-shaped  on  a  dish;  cover  with  a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90), 
leaving  an  opening  in  the  center,  smooth  the  surface  with  a  knife,  pour  over  some  melted  butter, 
and  sprinkle  grated  parmesan  cheese  on  top.  Put  this  into  a  slow  oven  to  brown  well,  and  just 
when  sending  it  to  the  table  pour  into  the  center  a  garnishing  a  la  Chevreuse  (No.  655). 

(1328).  BEEF  PALATES  IN  TORTUE  (Palais  de  Bceuf  en  Tortue). 

Prepare  the  beef  palates  as  explained  in  a  la  bechamel  (No.  1326),  lay  them  under  a  weight, 
then  cut  in  oval-shaped  pieces  three  and  one-half  by  two  inches,  either  with  a  knife  or  a  pastry 
cutter.  Cover  one  side  with  a  dome-shaped  layer  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  mixing  in  with  it 
a  fourth  of  its  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Lay  them  in  a  stewpan  one  beside  the 
other,  the  forcemeat  side  on  top,  and  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  pan  a  good  half-glaze  (No. 
400)  with  Madeira,  and  heat  slowly  in  a  mild  oven.  When  the  forcemeat  is  hard  to  the  touch, 
cover  the  surface  with  some  Madeira  sauce,  return  the  palates  to  the  oven  for  one  moment  to  glaze, 
then  arrange  them  crown-shaped  round  the  bottom  of  a  dish  hollow  in  the  center  and  raised  edges. 
Fill  the  center  with  a  garnishing  made  as  follows:  To  some  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  add  a  pinch 
of  cayenne  pepper,  some  forcemeat  quenelles,  a  few  pickled  gherkins  cut  olive-shaped,  turned 
mushrooms  heads  (No.  118),  slices  of  cooked  veal  tongue  one  inch  in  diameter  by  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Garnish  the  edge  of  the  dish  with  fried  egg-yolks  and  small  larded  and  glazed 
sweet-breads  (No.  1575). 

(1329).  BIBS  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BRISTED  (Cotes  de  Boeuf  a  la  Bristed). 

Choose  a  piece  of  rib,  the  meat  of  it  being  a  pink  color  and  well  mortified.  Kemove  the 
flesh  from  the  spine,  saw  off  the  bone  at  the  end  of  each  rib,  bone  these  at  the  side  of  the  breast, 
being  careful  not  to  injure  the  layer  of  fat  covering  it,  then  saw  off  the  bones  six  inches  from  the 
spine;  now  fold  the  boned  piece  over  the  other  one,  and  in  order  to  keep  it  in  shape,  tie  firmly 
with  twelve  rounds  of  string,  knotting  it  each  time  it  goes  round  the  meat.  Garnish  the  bottom 
of  a  brazier  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  and  slices  of  ham,  and  lay  the  ribs  on  top.  Moisten  with  four 
quarts  of  broth  (No.  194a),  and  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine;  set  around  it  two  carrots  cut  lengthwise 
in  four,  two  stalks  of  celery,  two  medium  sized  onions  with  two  cloves  in  each,  one  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  mace,  salt  and  whole  peppers.  Let  boil  slowly  for  three  and 
a  half  to  four  hours,  basting  frequently  with  its  own  juice,  and  glaze  a  fine  color.  Strain  the 
gravy,  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  brown  Spanish  sauce  (No.  414), 
and  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine.  Lay  the  piece  of  meat  on  a  dish,  garnish  around  with  stuffed 
tomatoes  (No.  2842),  and  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  650),  and  slip  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  one- 
third  of  its  own  sauce.  Serve  at  the  same  time  the  rest  of  it  in  a  sauce-bowl,  after  having  mingled 
in  a  piece  of  good  butter. 

(1330).  RIBS  OF  BEEF  A  L'HINDOSTAN  (Ootes  de  Bceuf  a  1'Indostan), 

Prepare  the  piece  of  beef  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  beef  American  style  (No.  1331);  set  it  in 
a  dish  with  round  slices  of  onions,  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  salt,  mignonette,  a  glassful 
of  sweet  oil  and  a  little  vinegar.  Leave  it  to  marinate  for  two  hours,  turning  the  meat  over  several 
times  in  its  pickle,  then  wrap  the  marinade  up  in  several  sheets  of  strong  buttered  paper,  also  the 
meat,  and  cook  as  explained  in  the  American  beef  (No.  1331).  Wash  two  pounds  of  rice  in  tepid 
water,  blanch  for  one  minute  in  boiling  water,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan;  moisten  with  three  pints  of 
broth  (No.  194a),  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  an  infusion  of  saffron,  salt,  and  cayenne 
pepper;  boil  and  finish  cooking  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  the  oven;  when  the  rice  is  done, 
take  away  the  sixth  part,  which  must  be  put  in  a  saucepan,  adding  to  it  some  allemande  sauce 
(No.  407),  and  then  let  it  get  cool.  Use  this  rice  to  make  small  croquettes  for  garnishing.  Lay  the 
balance  of  the  rice  on  the  dish  with  the  ribs,  surrounding  it  with  the  small  croquettes.  Serve  at 
the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  full  of  thickened  gravy  (No.  405). 


BEEF.  477 

(1331).  EIBS  OP  BEEP  OP  TBIETY-TWO  POUNDS,  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Cotes  deBoeuf  de  trente 

deux  livres,  a  I'Americaine). 

These  ribs  lay  next  to  the  short  loin,  on  the  side  near  the  neck;  in  veal  and  mutton  this  part  is 
called  the  rack;  the  ribs  are  the  most  desirable  part  of  the  beef,  and  are  either  roasted  or  braised. 
Choose  the  ribs  from  a  tender,  well  mortified  piece  of  meat,  saw  off  the  projecting  part  of  the  spine. 
To  roast  on  the  spit,  it  must  be  wrapped  up  or  packed  in  several  sheets  of  strong,  greased  paper; 
tie  with  several  turns  of  string,  lay  it  in  a  cradle  spit  (Fig.  116)  to  cook,  which  will  take  about 
three  hours  and  a  half  before  a  good,  regular  fire.  Half  an  hour  before  removing  from  the 
spit,  remove  the  paper,  let  brown  nicely,  then  put  it  on  a  heater  to  keep  warm  for  forty- 
five  minutes  before  serving.  To  roast  in  the  oven,  place  the  ribs  in  a  baking  pan,  pour  on 
some  fat,  and  roast  it  for  four  hours,  carefully  basting  several  times  during  the  cooking; 
salt  and  set  it  on  a  heater  to  keep  warm  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving.  "When 
sending  the  roast  to  table  serve  with  it  a  sauce-bowl  of  good  thickened  gravy  (No.  405)  and 
a  dish  of  mellow  potatoes,  prepared  as  follows:  Cook  some  potatoes  in  salted  water  for 
thirty  minutes,  drain  and  press  them  through  a  colander,  adding  half  an  ounce  of  butter  for  each 
pound  of  potatoes.  Form  this  puree  into  balls  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  lay  them  on  a 
buttered  pan,  pour  over  some  more  butter,  and  brown  them  in  the  oven.  Serve  them  at  the  same 
time  as  the  roast  beef.  The  time  for  cooking  different  sizes  is:  For  a  cut  of  five  pounds,  forty 
minutes,  then  keep  in  hot  closet  for  fifteen  minutes  longer;  for  a  cut  of  ten  pounds  one  hour,  keep 
in  hot  closet  twenty  minutes;  for  a  cut  of  fifteen  pound  one  hour  and  three-quarters,  keep  in  hot 
closet  twenty-five  minutes;  for  a  cut  of  twenty  pounds,  two  hours  and  one-quarter,  then  keep  in  a 
hot  closet  thirty  minutes;  for  twenty-five  pounds,  two  hours  and  a  half,  then  keep  in  a  hot  closet 
thirty-five  minutes;  for  a  cut  of  thirty  pounds,  three  hours,  then  keep  in  a  hot  closet  forty  minutes. 

(1332).  KIBS  OF  BEEF,  OLD  STYLE  (Cotes  de  Bomf  a  la  Vieille  Mode). 

Cut  a  rib  of  beef  with  the  bone,  one  rib  to  the  piece,  the  same  as  a  veal  or  mutton  cutlet,  lard 
the  lean  part  of  the  meat  with  small  strips  of  fat  pork;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  spices  and  chopped 
parsley.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire;  when  the  butter  is  hot  set 
in  the  rib  of  beef  and  let  it  color  on  one  side  then  on  the  other.  When  half  done  place  the  lid  on 
the  saucepan,  and  push  into  the  oven;  as  soon  as  cooked  dish  up  the  rib,  strain  and  skim  off  the  fat 
from  the  gravy  in  the  saucepan,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat  garnished  around  with  potatoes  a  la 
Francaise. 

(1333).  DEVILED  SPAEE  EIBS  OF  BEEF  (Cotes  de  Bceuf  a  la  Diable). 

Use  the  spare  bones  of  a  piece  of  a  cold  roast  rib  of  beef.  Take  out  the  bones  without  remov- 
ing too  much  of  the  meat  around  them,  then  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  rubbing  the  surface  over 
with  mustard.  Roll  them  in  fresh  bread  raspings,  drop  some  butter  over,  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire; 
lay  them  on  a  dish,  pouring  over  a  little  thickened  gravy  (No.  405). 

(1334).  EOUND  BUTTOCK  TOP  SMOTHEEED  (Tendre  de  Tranches  a  I'Estouffade), 
Lard  a  buttock-top  of  ten  to  twelve  pounds,  with  large  slices  of  larding  pork,  season  it  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg.  Line  a  brazier  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  some  raw,  lean  ham,  sliced  carrots 
and  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Place  the  meat  on  top 
of  this  garnishing,  and  set  around  it  three  calves'  feet,  split  lengthwise  through  the  center, 
moisten  with  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  broth  (No.  194a),  boil,  cover  the  stewpan,  and  reduce  the 
stock  to  a  glaze,  which  degree  can  easily  be  told  when  the  fat  becomes  clarified,  and  the  vegetables 
begin  to  attach  themselves  to  the  pan.  Moisten  again  slowly  with  some  more  broth,  cover  the 
brazier  hermetically  and  let  simmer  in  a  slow  oven  for  five  or  six  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  buttock-  when  cooked,  strain  the  gravy,  remove  the  fat  from  it  and  reduce.  Glaze  well  the 
meat,  bone  the  calves'  feet,  set  them  under  a  weight,  after  filling  them  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No. 
385)  '  When  cold  cut  them  up  into  square  pieces,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  dip 
them  into  a  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  fry  to  a  fine  color,  lay  the  meat  on  a  dish,  garnish  around 
with  the  fried  pieces  of  calves'  feet,  and  serve  the  gravy  separately  in  a  sauce-bowl. 

(1335).  EOUND  BUTTOCK  TOP  BAKED  (Noix  de  Boeuf  Gratinee). 

Have  a  piece  of  the  round  top  braized  and  cold,  weighing  two  pounds;  cut  it  into  equal  sized 
slices  not  having  them  too  thin;  put  in  a  stewpan  or  on  a  dish,  piece  by  piece,  the  slices  one 
on  top  of  the  other,  and  baste  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  cover  with  a  second  dish, 


478  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  set  to  warm  in  a  slow  oven.  Mince  half  a  pound  of  cooked  mushrooms,  fry  them  in  butter, 
drain  off  the  latter,  and  add  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  horseradish,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  also  a  large  pinch  of  chopped  parsley. 
After  the  meat  is  warm,  lift  out  the  slices  one  by  one,  lay  them  on  a  long  dish  one  beside  the  other, 
covering  each  separate  slice  with  a  part  of  the  above  preparation.  When  the  meat  has  been 
replaced  into  its  natural  shape,  cover  it  entirely  with  the  remainder,  besprinkle  over  with  rasped 
bread-crumbs,  and  put  to  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  it  frequently  with  the  gravy  the  meat 
was  warmed  in.  Garnish  the  border  with  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782),  ball-shaped,  and  each  one 
an  inch  in  diameter. 

(1336).  BOUND  BUTTOCK  TOP,  PAEISIAN  STYLE  (Noix  de  Boeuf  a  la  Mode  de  Paris). 
Lard  a  round  top  of  beef  of  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds  with  large  lardings  of  pork,  season 
with  pepper,  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley;  line  a  brazier  (stewpan)  with  slices  of  pork,  set  the 
meat  on  top,  and  put  the  pot  without  its  cover  into  a  hot  oven.  When  the  meat  is  well  colored, 
moisten  with  some  broth  (No.  194a),  adding  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  with  thyme,  bay  leaf, 
and  a  clove  of  garlic.  It  will  take  from  five  to  six  hours  to  cook,  according  to  the  size  of  the  piece 
of  meat,  and  after  it  is  well  done,  drain  off  the  gravy,  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  remove  all  the 
fat,  and  reduce  it  in  order  to  obtain  a  rich  gravy;  take  away  one  third  of  this.  Add  to  the  re- 
maining two-thirds,  a  puree  of  tomatoes  (No.  730),  also  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Dress  the 
beef  on  a  dish,  surround  it  with  small  carrots  cut  pear  shaped,  and  previously  blanched  and 
cooked  in  a  very  little  white  broth  (No.  194a),  so  that  they  are  reduced  to  a  glaze,  also  some  small 
glazed  onions.  Pour  some  of  the  gravy  over  the  meat,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a  separate  sauce- 
bowl.  A  sirloin  of  beef  can  be  used  instead  of  the  round  top. 

(1337).  BUMP  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BOUOICAULT  (Pointe  de  Culotte  k  la  Boucicault). 

The  rump  or  hip  of  beef  is  placed  on  the  exterior  side  of  the  spine,  at  the  lower  extremity;  it 
commences  where  the  loin  ends  and  finishes  at  the  beginning  of  the  tail.  The  rump  of  beef  is  the 
most  delicate  part  of  the  hind  quarter;  it  is  excellent  for  boiling  or  braising  purposes,  also  for 
corning. 

Bone  a  sixteen  pound  piece  of  the  rump  of  beef,  trim  off  the  fat,  season  with  salt  and  mi- 
gnonette, roll  it  lengthwise  and  tie,  then  set  it  in  a  brazier,  and  moisten  to  twice  its  height  with  some 
broth  (No.  194a);  heat  the  liquid,  skim  it  carefully;  at  the  first  boil,  remove  the  brazier,  so  that  the 
broth  only  simmers  gently,  adding  six  medium  carrots,  three  turnips,  two  onions,  six  leeks,  and  two 
stalks  of  celery.  Let  continue  to  cook  for  five  hours;  after  three  hours  add  two  pieces  of  salt  bacon,  of 
one  pound  each,  parboiled  for  twenty  minutes;  let  the  whole  simmer  for  two  hours  or  more  until 
the  meat  is  perfectly  cooked,  then  strain  the  liquor,  skim  off  the  fat,  add  a  little  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  thick  gravy.  Glaze  the  piece  of  meat;  dress  on  a  large 
dish,  and  garnish  the  side  with  knob  celery  braised  and  glazed,  sauted  Brussels  sprouts,  the  bacon 
cut  in  slices  dressed  on  each  side  of  the  sprouts,  and  celery;  at  the  end  slices  of  beef  tongue  (un- 
smoked)  coated  on  both  sides  with  thick  soubise  sauce  (No.  543),  breaded  and  fried;  pour  over 
part  of  the  gravy,  send  the  rest  of  the  gravy  in  one  or  two  separate  sauce-boats. 

(1338).  BUMP  A  LA  OABEME  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  a  la  Careme). 

Bone  and  pare  a  piece  of  rump  of  beef  weighing  twenty  pounds;  remove  the  fat,  and  trim  it 
so  that  it  is  much  longer  than  its  width;  cover  it  with  suet,  roll  lengthwise  and  tie  it  with  fourteen 
rounds  of  the  string,  making  a  knot  at  each  round.  Put  the  rump  of  beef  into  a  saucepan  with 
half  a  pound  of  melted  fat  pork;  brown  slowly,  turning  it  over  frequently.  Remove  the  meat 
after  it  is  a  nice  color,  drain  off  the  grease,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  sauce-pan  with  a  thin 
layer  of  chopped  onions  and  carrots,  set  the  meat  on  top,  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No. 
194a)  and  half  a  bottle  of  sauterne  wine,  reduce  the  moisture  to  a  glaze,  and  moisten  again  to  the 
height  of  the  meat  with  some  good  broth.  Boil  up  the  liquid,  skim,  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  cloves.  Cook 
slowly  for  five  hours,  carefully  moistening  it  at  times  with  hot  broth  so  as  to  keep  the  liquor  half 
of  the  heighth  of  the  meat;  drain  off  the  gravy,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  add  a  pint  of  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492)  reduced  and  strained.  Untie,  pare,  glaze  and  dish  up  the  piece  of  meat,  pour  around  it 
one-third  of  the  sauce,  garnish  around  with  stuffed  mushroom  heads  (No.  650),  sauted  lamb's 
sweetbreads,  and  rice  croquettes  with  parmesan.  Serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat. 


BEEF.  479 

(1339).  EUMP  OF  BEEF  A  LA  OHATELLIEE  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  de  Boeuf  a  la  Chatellier). 

Pieces  of  boiled  beef  are  only  to  be  served  at  family  dinners.  Select  a  rump  of  beef  weighing 
twenty  pounds,  having  it  exceedingly  fresh;  bone,  roll  up,  and  tie.  Lay  it  in  a  stock  pot,  and 
moisten  plentifully  with  broth  (No.  194a);  boil,  skim  carefully,  then  continue  to  boil  slowly  and 
regularly  for  five  hours.  After  it  has  cooked  three  hours,  put  into  a  net  four  pounds  of  carrots, 
and  two  pounds  of  turnips  (both  pared  and  cooked  cork-shaped),  also  one  onion  with  five  cloves  in 
it,  eight  leeks,  a  stalk  of  celery,  and  half  a  parsnip;  set  the  net  containing  these  vegetables  into 
the  stock  pot,  and  let  cook  with  the  beef.  Blanch  separately  a  quartered  cabbage,  drain,  put  it 
into  a  separate  saucepan  and  moisten  with  some  very  fat  broth  taken  from  the  pot:  let  cook  for  an 
hour,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  drain  the  meat,  untie,  brush  over  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402) 
and  glaze  in  the  oven  to  a  fine  color;  garnish  the  ends  with  the  drained  cabbage,  arrange  the 
carrots  and  turnips  in  clusters  on  both  sides,  and  at  one  side  set  some  mellow  potatoes  (No.  2799), 
and  at  the  other  side  some  stuffed  peppers  (No.  2768);  have  a  horseradish  sauce  (No.  478)  served 
separately;  glaze  the  meat  once  more,  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1340).  EUMP  OF  BEEF,  BOUEGEOISE  STYLE  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  de  Boeuf  a  la  Mode  Bourgeoise) 
Have  six  pounds  of  rump  of  beef,  or  use  instead  a  piece  of  sirloin;  remove  all  the  fat 
and  sinews,  lard  it,  following  the  grain  of  the  meat,  writh  fat  pork,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley.  Place  the  meat  in  an  earthen  bowl,  with  sliced  carrots  and 
onions,  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  brandy,  and  let  macerate  eight  hours  in  a  cool  place,  turning  it 
over  frequently.  Drain  and  wipe  off  any  moisture  adhering  thereon,  then  tie,  and  set  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  some  melted  pork.  Eoast  it  until  the  meat  is  well  seized  and  browned,  then  moisten 
with  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine;  reduce  to  half  and  add  sufficient  broth  (No.  194a)  to  cover  the 
meat,  set  round  it  two  boned  and  blanched  calf's  feet,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  mace,  whole  peppers,  three  carrots  and  two  medium  onions,  with  four  cloves 
in  them  and  the  brandy.  Boil  up,  then  skim,  continue  to  boil  slowly  or  else  put  in  the  oven  to 
simmer  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  Drain  the  meat,  untie  and  trim  it,  straining  the  gravy  through 
a  tammy,  replace  the  meat  in  the  saucepan  with  an  abundant  quantity  of  carrots  cut  into  three- 
quarter  of  an  inch  balls,  then  blanched,  and  some  glazed  onions;  pour  over  the  stock,  also  some 
broth,  so  that  they  be  entirely  covered  at  the  bottom.  Boil  and  finish  cooking  slowly  in  the  oven, 
drain,  glaze  the  meat,  and  set  it  on  a  dish;  garnish  around  with  the  small  glazed  onions  and  the 
carrots;  strain  the  juice,  free  it  from  fat,  and  reduce  until  it  becomes  thoroughly  succu'ent,  then 
pour  a  part  of  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve  the  rest  separately  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1341).  EUMP  OF  BEEF,  FLEMISH  STYLE  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  de  Bceuf  a  la  Flamande). 
Have  the  meat  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  a  la  Boucicault  (No.  1337;,  using  the  pork, 
but  no  vegetables.  Cut  up  some  carrots  pear-shaped,  about  four  pounds  in  all,  as  many  turnips 
cut  into  one  inch  in  diameter  balls;  also  a  four-pound  cabbage  cut  in  four,  blanch  each  sepaately 
and  divide  it  into  twenty  small  parts,  tying  each  one  together  with  a  coarse  thread.  Lay  the 
cabbages  in  a  row  in  the  center  of  a  low  saucepan,  through  its  entire  length,  set  in  the  turnips 
on  one  side  and  the  carrots  on  the  other,  dilute  with  just  sufficient  stock  from  the  meat  to  cover 
the  vegetables,  and  one  hour  and  a  half  before  serving,  place  over  them  a  heavy  piece  of  buttered 
paper.  Boil  on  a  very  slow  fire,  or  in  the  oven,  and  when  the  vegetables  are  cooked,  serve  up 
the  piece  of  meat,  and  set  on  one  side  of  it  half  of  the  carrots  and  turnips,  laying  the  other  half 
on  the  other  side,  alternating  them  so  as  to  vary  the  colors.  Place  the  cabbages  at  the  two  ends, 
and  Xv  on  them  the  salt  pork  cut  into  slices.  Reduce  the  gravy  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  half- 
glaze,  moisten  the  meat  with  a  part  of  it,  and  serve  the  rest  in  two  sauce-boats. 

(1342).  EUMP  OF  BEEF,  GEEEK  STYLE  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  de  boeuf  a  la  Grecque). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  piece  of  beef  as  explained  for  a  la  Careme  (No.  1338);  glaze  and  place 
around  it  a  garnishing  of  tomatoes,  Greek  style,  prepared  as  explained  below;  serve  at  the  same 
time  the  braise  stock,  strained,  skimmed  and  reduced. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes,  Greek  Style.— Chop  very  fine  one  pound  of  lean  beef,  veal  or  lamb  with  two 
ounces  of  beef  suet;  bake  two  large  onions  till  quite  brown,  chop  them  up  with  the  meat,  adding  pep- 
per, salt  and  a  little  water;  cook  the  whole  in  a  deep  pan  for  two  hours,  then  add  a  little  butter  and 
a  lump  of  sugar,  and  continue  cooking  until  quite  dry,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Cut  a  piece  off  the 
top  of  some  tomatoes,  scoop  out  the  centers,  fill  with  the  preparation,  put  back  the  covers,  and 


480  THE    EPICUREAN. 

rub  them  over  with  a  little  flour  and  powdered  sugar.  Place  the  tomatoes  in  a  pan  with  small 
bits  of  butter  spread  over  each.  Pass  the  insides  removed  from  the  tomatoes  through  a  sieve,  add 
to  this  a  little  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  pour  this  into  the  pan,  and  bake  the  tomatoes 
slowly;  they  must  be  slightly  browned  when  done.  This  same  meat  dressing  can  be  utilized  for 
stuffing  cabbages  or  egg-plant. 

(1343).  EUMP  OF  BEEF,  JARDINIERE  (Pointe  de  Oulotte  de  Boeuf  Jardiniere), 
Braise  a  rump  aitchbone  of  beef,  after  it  is  done  drain  it  to  pare,  decreasing  the  thickness  of 
the  layer  of  fat  covering  the  meat  and  cut  it  away  underneath  so  that  the  slices  will  not  be  too 
wide;  now  divide  it  into  uniform  slices  not  too  thin;  reshape  the  piece  to  its  original  form  and  lay 
it  on  a  baking  dish  with  a  part  of  its  stock  strained,  skimmed  and  mingled  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
Madeira,  then  reduced  to  a  half -glaze;  stand  it  in  a  mild  oven  and  glaze  while  basting  frequently. 
Apart  from  this  prepare  a  garnishing  of  braised  lettuce,  small  braised  carrots,  small  flowerets  of 
cauliflower  all  of  one  size  and  cut  up  string  beans,  besides  some  thick  slices  of  cucumbers  lightly 
scooped  out  on  one  side:  then  blanched,  stuffed  and  glazed.  At  the  last  moment  remove  the  rump, 
stand  it  on  a  long  dish  arranging  it  in  a  half  circle,  then  dress  the  garnishings  symmetrically  in 
the  hollow  of  the  half  circle.  Place  the  stuffed  cucumbers  the  whole  length  on  the  outside  of  the 
meat,  forming  them  into  a  chain;  glaze  the  slices  of  beef  with  a  brush,  slip  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the 
reduced  stock  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  the  surplus  well  reduced  separately. 

(1344).  RUMP  OF  BEEF,  MIROTONS  A  LA  MENAGERE  (Pointe  de  Bceuf  Mirotons  k  la 


For  mirotons  take  six  ounces  of  either  cold  braised  or  cold  boiled  beef.  Mince  two  ounces  of 
onions,  or  one  medium-sized  onion,  also  a  small  shallot;  fry  them  in  butter  with  a  whole  clove  of 
garlic  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Dilute  with  a  little  white 
wine  and  some  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  then  remove  the  bunch  of  herbs 
and  garlic.  Season  and  place  the  sliced  beef  in  a  stewpan;  pour  the  prepared  sauce  over,  and  let 
simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  lay  it  on  a  dish  and  cover  the  meat  with  the  sauce  and  sprinkle 
chopped  parsley  over. 

(1345),  RUMP  OF  BEEF,  MODERN  STYLE-BRAISED  (Pointe  de  Bomf  Braise-  &  la  Moderne), 

Pare  an  aitchbone  of  beef,  suppressing  all  the  bones;  roll  lengthwise,  tie  and  lay  it  in  a  long 
saucepan  with  melted  fat  pork;  let  it  fry  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  turning  it  over  frequently;  season, 
then  take  the  meat  from  the  pan,  spread  on  the  bottom  of  this  same  saucepan  a  thick  layer  of 
minced  vegetables  and  onions  and  replace  the  meat  over,  moisten  with  three  or  four  gills  of  broth; 
let  reduce  very  slowly  and  wet  it  again  with  as  much  white  wine,  then  reduce  to  a  glaze.  Now 


FIG.  305. 

moisten  the  meat  to  its  height  with  broth,  boil  up  the  liquid,  skimming  well  the  fat  from  the  sur- 
face and  cover  the  saucepan;  stand  it  in  a  slack  oven  and  have  the  meat  cook  until  well  done 
which  will  take  at  least  five  hours.  Put  the  meat  on  a  baking  dish  to  truss  and  pare;  strain  the 
stock,  suppress  its  fat  and  add  broth  to  it  should  there  not  be  sufficient  and  reduce  it  it 
there  be  too  much.  Return  the  meat  to  a  narrower  saucepan,  pour  the  stock  over  and  add  a  glass- 
ful of  Madeira  or  Marsala  wine;  finish  to  cook  in  a  slack  oven  basting  it  at  times  so  that  it  assumes 
a  glaze;  It  should  be  tender  and  finely  colored.  When  prepared  to  serve,  drain  the  meat  and  cut 
it  into  well  formed  transversal  slices  of  even  thickness,  dress  these  on  a  foundation  of  rice 
fastened  on  a  long  dish  and  surround  with  a  garnishing  prepared  beforehand  and  having  it 
symmetrically  arranged.  At  the  end  of  the  dish  where  the  narrow  slices  of  the  beef  begin  fasten  a 


BEEF.  481 

small  fried  bread  support  and  in  it  stick  a  skewer  garnished  with  cut  vegetables  and  a  round  truffle. 
The  garnishing  around  the  meat  consists  of  eight  small  chartreuses  of  vegetables,  a  dozen  ball- 
shaped  croquettes  and  a  dozen  thick  slices  of  cucumbers  hollowed  out  and  stuffed,  each  one  to  be 
decorated  with  a  slice  of  truffle  cut  out  with  a  vegetable  cutter.  Serve  at  the  same  time  as  the 
remove  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  strained,  skimmed  and  reduced  stock  in  which  the  beef  was  cooked. 
This  dish  is  prepared  to  have  served  to  the  guests  at  a  dinner  party. 

(1346).  EOAST  BEEF-MIDDLE  SHORT  LOIN-ENGLISH  STYLE  (Eosbif  d'Aloyau  a  1'Anglaise). 

Cut  along  the  vertebra  and  toward  the  top  of  the  back  a  piece  containing  the  greater 
part  of  the  tenderloin,  from  the  end  rib  to  the  hip;  this  part  called  the  middle  short  Join, 
and  is  the  choice  piece  for  roasting;  it  is  used  in  the  best  houses  in  England  and  France! 
The  meat  must  be  selected  from  a  young  and  tender  beef  of  deep  crimson  color  and  veined 
with  slices  of  fat.  Cut  from  the  center  a  piece  weighing,  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  pounds,  more 
or  less,  according  to  the  number  of  guests  to  be  supplied,  cut  away  the  fat,  and  a  piece  of  the  flank 
seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fold  the  flank  over;  the  meat  should  be  the  same  thickness 
throughout.  Tie  it  well,  making  a  knot  at  each  turn  of  the  string.  It  can  be  wrapped  up  in  several 
sheets  of  buttered  paper.  A  piece  of  beef  roasted  on  the  spit  is  far  preferable  to  one  cooked  in  the 
oven.  It  suffices  to  place  it  in  the  middle  of  an  English  cradle  spit  (Fig.  116),  but  sometimes 


FIG.  306. 

it  is  impossible  to  cook  it  in  this  way.  Therefore  the  most  practical  manner  is  to  cook  it  as  follows: 
Set  it  in  a  deep  pan  with  raised  edges,  and  furnished  with  a  grate  slightly  raised  on  four  feet  an 
inch  and  a  half  high  (Fig.  306).  Pour  into  the  pan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  fat,  put  the  meat  on  the 
grate,  and  roast  it  in  a  moderate  oven  allowing  for  a  short  loin  weighing  fifteen  pounds  one  and  a 
half  hours,  one  of  twenty,  two  hours,  and  one  of  thirty,  two  and  a  half  hours,  forty  pounds,  three 
and  a  half  hours,  the  time  always  to  be  calculated  according  to  the  regularity  of  the  fire  and  the 
thickness  of  the  meat;  roast  the  meat,  basting  and  turning  it  over  frequently,  add  a  little  water  in 
case  the  grease  threatens  to  burn.  When  nearly  done  salt.  When  the  short  loin  is  nearly  cooked 
untie,  and  keep  in  a  hot  closet  from  fifteen  to  forty  minutes  according  to  the  size,  then  serve  it  in 
a  large  dish;  it  must  be  cut  in  slices  lengthwise  of  the  meat,  beginning  at  the  sirloin  and  then  the 
tenderloin.  Serve  on  very  hot  plates  with  a  sauce-boat  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  passed  around  at 
the  same  time. 

(1347).  MIDDLE  SHORT  LOIN  BRAISED  A  LA  MESSINOISE  (Aloyau  BraisS  a  la  Messinoise). 

Select  a  short  loin  weighing  about  thirty  pounds;  taken  from  a  young  and  tender  beef,  and 
prepare  it  as  follows:  remove  all  the  fat  surrounding  the  tenderloin,  detach  the  tenderloin  from 
the  chine-bone  sufficiently  so  as  to  be  able  to  saw  off  the  chine-bone.  Cut  away  the  aitch 
bone  from  the  sirloin.  Prick  the  thick  flank  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife;  flatten  it;  remove 
the  skin  from  the  tenderloin,  also  the  large  nerve  on  the  sirloin,  trim  the  loin  well,  leaving  the 
flank  wider  on  the  thin  side  ot  the  tenderloin.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  lard  the  meat  with 
larding  pork  and  seasoned  raw  ham,  roll  the  flank  over  the  tenderloin,  covering  the  latter  with 
slices  of  fat  an  inch  or  more  in  thickness;  tie  it  up,  making  a  knot  at  each  turn  of  the  string,  which 
must  be  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  braising  pan  with 
cut  slices  of  carrots  and  onions,  lay  the  loin  on  top,  moisten  to  a  quarter  of  its  height  with  broth, 
(No.  194a)  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  Marsala  wine,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sliced 


482  THE    EPICUREAN. 

mushrooms.  Reduce  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  again  to  three-quarters  of  its  heighth  with  the 
same  quantity  of  broth  and  Marsala  wine  as  before.  Cook  slowly  for  four  hours,  basting  it  fre^ 
quently  with  its  own  gravy,  and  when  the  meat  is  cooked,  trim  and  lay  it  on  a  long  dish, 
garnishing  the  sides  with  small  macaroni  Milanese  timbales  (No.  2988),  and  the  ends  with  small 
round  ravioles  (No.  158).  Strain  the  gravy,  skim  it  carefully,  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a 
quarter-glaze,  then  pour  over  the  meat  one-third  of  it,  serving  the  rest  at  the  same  time  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1348).  MIDDLE  SHORT  LOIN  A  LA  NORWOOD  (Aloyau  a  la  Norwood), 
For  thirty  pounds,  prepare  the  middle  short  loin  the  same  as  for  No.  1347,  but 
remove  most  of  the  fat  adhering  to  the  flank,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  meat  in 
an  earthen  dish  with  some  carrots,  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  sprigs  of  parsley,  olive  oil  and  lemon 
juice.  Macerate  the  whole  for  two  hours,  then  remove  the  meat  without  the  vegetables,  tie  the  flank 
over  the  tenderloin,  making  a  knot  at  each  turn  of  the  string,  leaving  an  interval  of  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  between  each;  wrap  up  the  marinade  with  the  short  loin  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper, 
place  it  on  a  roast  pan.  with  some  grease  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  some  minced  carrots  and 
onions,  adding  a  little  water;  roast  in  the  oven;  when  the  meat  is  nearly  done,  remove  the  paper, 
salt  it  and  glaze,  return  to  the  oven  to  attain  a  nice  color,  then  set  it  in  a  warm  closet  for  about 
twenty  minutes;  it  will  take  about  two  and  a  half  hours  to  cook  it.  Dish  the  meat  up,  glaze  it 
again,  and  garnish  with  quartered  and  peeled  apples,  previously  placed  in  a  buttered  plate,  lightly 
dredged  with  sugar  and  cooked  in  a  hot  oven.  Add  a  garnishing  of  small  potatoes  cut  olive- 
shaped,  blanched  and  cooked  in  butter;  a<<d  the  vegetables  from  the  marinade,  to  one  quart 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  ~nd  some  good  gravy  (No.  404),  reduce  and  skim  free  of  fat,  pass 
through  a  sieve  and  serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1349).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BRADFORD  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bradford). 
Have  a  sirloin  prepared  and  cooked  as  explained  for  chiccory  and  sweet  souffied  potatoes  (No.  1356) ; 
garnish  the  sides  with  small  corn  fritters,  and  decorate  the  ends  with  corn  and  potato  croquettes. 
Serve  separately  some  good  gravy  (No.  404)  thickened  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  also 
a  sauce-boatful  of  horseradish  cream  sauce  (No.  478). 

Corn  Fritters. — Cut  the  grain  through  the  center  the  whole  length  of  the  cob,  and  by  pressing 
on  it  with  the  dull  edge  of  the  knife,  the  interior  of  the  grains  can  be  removed  without  the  skins; 
chop  the  corn  up  fine  and  mingle  it  with  a  very  delicate  pancake  batter  (No.  3072),  and  cook  it  in 
small  pancakes  each  two  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter;  garnish  the  sides  of  the  sirloin  with  them, 
having  one  overlapping  the  other. 

Corn  Croquettes. — Cut  the  corn  as  for  corn  fritters;  mix  the  corn  with  two-thirds  of  its  quantity 
of  finely  mashed  potatoes  and  cream,  to  which  add  a  piece  of  good  butter,  set  it  in  a  dish  to  get 
cold  and  then  form  it  into  cylinder-shaped  croquettes  one  inch  in  diameter  by  two  and  one-quarter 
inches  in  length,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  a  fine  color  in  hot  fat, 
garnish  the  ends  of  the  dish  with  these  croquettes. 

(1350).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  DAUPHINESS  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Dauphine). 

Remove  the  sirloin  from  a  piece  of  middle  short  loin,  suppress  the  fat  and  nerves,  and  pare  to 
an  oblong  shape  keeping  on  the  flank,  lard  the  meats  with  lardons  of  fat  pork  (No.  1,  Fig.  52); 
season  and  roll  the  sirloin  over  on  itself  so  that  the  meats  are  enveloped;  tie  firmly,  making  a  knot 
at  each  round  of  the  string.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  (Fig.  134),  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and 
sliced  carrots  and  onions;  over  these  place  the  sirloin.  Crack  two  knuckles  of  veal,  lay  them  around 
the  meat  and  moisten  with  some  good  stock  (No.  194a)  as  high  as  the  meats;  boil, skim  and  set  it  on  one 
side  to  boil  slowly,  put  the  cover  on  the  braziere  and  some  lighted  charcoal  on  this.  It  will  take  about 
three  hours  to  cook;  keep  basting  frequently.  When  the  sirloin  is  done,  untie  and  strain  the  stock 
which  should  be  reduced  to  two-thirds;  lay  the  sirloin  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cover  it  withaSoubise 
sauce  (No.  543),  well  reduced  and  thickened  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  cream.  Strew 
the  top  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  then  brown  in  the  oven  to  a  fine  color,  dress  and 
decorate  the  ends  with  stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2842)  and  the  sides  with  Dauphine  potatoes  (No. 
2783).  Serve  separately  the  stock  reduced  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira  wine. 

(1351).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  DEGRANGE  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  k  la  De"grange>. 
Prepare  and  cook  the  sirloin  the  same  as  for  a  la  de  Lesseps  (No.  1352);  untie,  glaze  and  lay  it 
on  a  dish,  garnishing  both  sides  with  carrots  and  green  peas,  and  the  ends  with  fried  celery,  strain 


BEEF.  483 

and  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  slip  a  part  of  it  under  the  sirloin,  serving  the  rest  in  a  separate 
sauce-bowl. 

Carrots  and  Peas,  Garnishing. — Cut  some  carrots  with  a  vegetable  cutter  into  balls  of  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  blanch  and  cook  them  in  white  broth  (No.  194a)  with  a  little  butter 
and  sugar;  when  the  carrots  are  done,  and  the  juice  well  reduced,  mix  in  an  equal  quantity  of  peas, 
thickening  the  whole  with  a  little  half -glaze  (No.  400)  and  fresh  butter. 

Fried  Celery.— Pick  out  the  most  tender  leaves  in  the  heart  of  a  raw  celery  head;  cut  them  into 
thin  strips  the  whole  length  of  the  stalk;  they  may  be  either  blanched  or  used  raw.  Dip  each  piece 
in  a  good  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  hot  fat. 

(1352).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  1  LA  DE  LESSEES  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  a  la  de  Lesseps), 
Prepare  a  piece  of  sirloin  as  follows:  Remove  the  sirloin  from  a  middle  short  rib,  remove  also 
the  fat  and  nerves,  pare  it  to  an  oblong  shape,  roll  it  over  on  itself  as  shown  iu  Fig.  307,  after 
larding  it  with  large  lardons  of  fat  pork  (No.  1,  Fig.  52). 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  lay 
the  meat  on  top  and  moisten  to  three-quarters   of    its 
hight  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).     Boil,  then  push  the 
braziere  into  the  oven  to  let  cook  for  about  three  hours, 
basting  it  several  times  in  the  meanwhile,  also  turning  it 
around  while  cooking.     After  the  sirloin  is  cooked,  glaze  it 
over  and  strain  the  stock  through  a  very  fine  sieve;  skim 
off  the  fat  carefully  and  reduce  the  stock  with  a  little  espag- 
nole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira  wine.     Dish  up  the  sirloin  Fia-  307> 

and  garnish  around  with  one  pound  of  rice,  saute  it  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  moisten 
to  two-thirds  higher  than  the  rice  itself  with  unskimmed  broth  strained  through  a  silk  sieve; 
season  well  with  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  powdered  saffron,  nutmeg  and  sweet  Spanish  pepper.  Leave 
the  rice  in  the  oven  to  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  toss  it  up  thoroughly 
with  a  fork;  now  dress  it  on  each  side  of  the  sirloin  and  garnish  the  ends  with  stuffed  tomatoes 
(No.  2842).  Serve  the  reduced  stock  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1353),  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  PERRIN  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  k  la  Perrin). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  sirloin  as  explained  in  sirloin  with  Jerusalem  artichokes  (No.  1357); 
glaze  and  dress  it  on  a  very  hot  dish,  garnish  each  side  with  marrow  canape's,  prepared 
as  follows:  Have  slices  of  toasted  bread  three  and  a  half  by  one  and  three-quarter  inches;  lay  on 
them  several  slices  of  blanched  marrow,  sprinkle  over  with  very  finely  chopped  chives,  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  for  one  minute.  Garnish  the  sides  of  the  dish  with  these,  and  pour  over  a 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  492);  arrange  at  the  two  ends  tomatoes  prepared  as  follows:  Plunge  very 
ripe  and  firm  tomatoes  into  boiling  water,  remove  the  skins,  cut  them  into  four  parts,  squeeze 
them  slightly  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  some  good  butter,  salt  and  ground  pepper;  cook 
them  on  a  quick  fire,  garnish  the  sirloin  and  serve. 

(1354).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  THIEBLIN  (Oontrefilet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Thieblin). 
Have  the  sirloin  prepared  and  cooked  as  explained  in  the  de  Lesseps  (No.  1352).  Dress  and 
glaze  it,  garnishing  each  side  with  red  cabbage,  prepared  as  explained  below,  and  the  ends  with 
Sarah  potatoes  (No.  2802).  Strain  and  skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  reduce  it  and  serve  it  in  a  separate 
sauce-boat.  Cut  a  red  cabbage  into  quarters,  remove  the  hard  center,  and  shave  the  balance  fine; 
blanch,  then  drain  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  bay  leaf  and  a  medium 
sized  onion  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares;  let  cook  slowly  for  three  hours,  stirring  it  several 
times  in  the  meanwhile  with  a  spoon.  Takeout  the  bay  leaf  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  some 
slices  of  apples  previously  cooked  in  butter. 

Q355).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  BRAIN  PATTIES  (Contrefilet  de  Boeuf  aux  Bouche~es  de 

Oervelles). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  sirloin  as  mentioned  in  (No.  1357),  glaze  and  lay  it  on  a  very  hot  dish, 
and  pour  a  little  good  gravy  over.  Serve  separately  some  patties  filled  with  brains  cut  in  small 
squares  combined  with  as  much  mushrooms  cut  the  same,  sautemg  both  in  butter,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  finish  with  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Serve  also  at 
the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  half-glaze  with  Madeira  (No.  400),  having  it  well  buttered. 


484  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1356).  SIRLOIN  OP  BEEF  WITH  CHIOOBY  AND  SCUFFLED  SWEET  POTATOES  (Oontrefilet 
de  Bceuf  aux  Endives  et  aux  Patates  Souffle"es). 

Take  the  sirloin  from  a  short  loin,  remove  a  part  of  the  flank  so  as  to  give  it  an  oblong  shape; 
also  a  part  of  the  fat,  and  all  the  sinews  from  the  covered  part.  Lard  it  nicely  with  pieces  of 
larding  pork  (No.  1,  Fig.  52);  cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking  pan  with  sliced  fat  pork,  minced 
onions  and  carrots,  and  lay  the  sirloin  on  top,  pouring  over  some  good  fat  (clarified  drippings),  and 
add  a  little  broth,  set  it  in  a  hot  oven  and  baste  frequently  while  cooking;  a  few  minutes  before 
dishing  up,  salt  the  meat.  When  done  arrange  it  on  a  dish,  pour  over  some  thick  gravy  (No.  405) 
and  garnish  it  around  with  scuffled  sweet  potatos  (No.  2831),  serve  separately  a  dishful  of  chiccory 
with  cream  (No.  2729),  also  some  thick  gravy  (No.  405)  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1357).  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES  (Oontrefilet  de  Bceuf  aux 

Topinambours). 

Lift  the  tenderloin  from  the  short  loin,  saw  the  ribs  from  the  beginning  of  the  spine  from  the 
sirloin  and  remove  the  flat  bone.  Trim  the  sirloin  into  a  long  square  shape  and  cook  it  either  on 
an  English  spit,  a  cradle  spit  or  else  in  the  oven.  For  the  latter,  set  the  sirloin  on  a  baking  pan 
having  a  grater  (Fig.  306),  pour  over  some  fat  and  for  a  sirloin  weighing  ten  pounds  allow  sixty 
minutes  for  its  cooking,  when  nearly  done,  salt,  dress  it  on  a  dish,  garnishing  all  around  with 
some  stewed  Jerusalem  artichokes  (No.  2749);  serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  good  thickened  gravy 
(No.  405). 

(1358).  SMOKED  ROUND  TOP  OF  BEEF  WITH  CREAM  (Noix  de  Bceuf  Fume"  a  la  Creme). 

Cut  up  as  finely  as  possible  one-half  pound  of  smoked  beef  taken  from  a  piece  of  the 
round  top;  set  it  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  cold  water,  at  the  first  boil,  drain  off  all  the 
water,  but  should  the  meat  still  be  too  salty,  then  set  it  in  boiling  water,  and  drain  it  well  a  few 
moments  after.  Put  the  well  drained  meat  into  another  saucepan,  with  the  addition  of  some 
cream,  let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  thicken  it  with  a  little  fecula  or  corn  starch  diluted  in 
cold  water  or  milk.  Cook  again  for  a  few  minutes,  season  with  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and 
finish  with  a  little  fresh  butter.  To  thicken  smoked  beef  with  cream  a  little  bechamel  sauce  (No. 
409)  may  be  used  instead  of  fecula. 

(1359).  SALISBURY  STEAK  (Bifteck  a  la  Salisbury). 

Put  two  pounds  of  tenderloin  of  beef  in  the  chopping  machine  (Fig.  173);  this  machine  is  far 
superior  to  any  other,  for  in  chopping  the  meats  the  sinews  and  other  hard  parts  collect  at  the 
bottom  of  the  machine,  on  the  shelf;  the  meat  arising  to  the  surface  is  the  best  part;  take  this 
out,  leaving  the  hard,  fibrous  pieces  at  the  bottom.  Mold  the  Salisbury  steak  in  a  ring  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  high  by  three  inches  in  diameter  or  else  in  a  small  empty  goose-liver 
terrine  (No.  10).  These  raw  steaks  are  frequently  served  without  any  seasoning  or  else  seasoned 
and  broiled  very  rare. 

(1360)  BEEF  STEAK,  HAMBURG  STYLE  (Bifteck  a  la  Hambourgeoise). 
One  pound  of  tenderloin  of  beef  free  of  sinews  and  fat;  chop  it  up  on  a  chopping  block  with 
four  ounces  of  beef  kidney  suet,  free  of  nerves  and  skin  or  else  the  same  quantity  of  marrow; 
add  one  ounce  of  chopped  onions  fried  in  butter  without  attaining  color;  season  all  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  nutmeg,  and  divide  the  preparation  into  balls,  each  one  weighing  four  ounces;  flatten  them 
down,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  them  in  a  saute1  pan  in  butter.  When  of  a  fine  color  on 
both  sides,  dish  them  up  pouring  a  good  thickened  gravy  (No.  405)  over. 

(1361).  HAMBURG  STEAK  A  LA  TARTARS  (Bifteck  de  Hambourg  a  la  Tartare). 

Hamburg  steaks  are  made  with  lean  and  tender  beef,  either  the  tenderloin  or  sirloin.  Chop 
up  with  a  knife  on  a  chopping  block  twelve  ounces  of  raw  beef  free  of  all  fat  and  nerves;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  add  half  a  medium  onion  cut  in  small  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares  or  else 
have  it  finely  chopped;  form  it  into  a  ball  and  flatten.  These  steaks  are  generally  eaten  raw.  For 
cooked  see  the  Hamburg  steak  No.  1360.  For  steaks  a  la  Tartare,  add  half  a  finely  cut  up  green 
pepper  or  else  it  can  be  cut  in  small  squares.  After  the  steak  is  formed  into  a  flattened  ball  make 
•a  hole  in  the  center  and  break  into  it  one  very  fresh  egg,  or  else  the  yolk  only. 


BEEF. 


485 


Fm.  308. 


(1362).  POETEEHOUSE  STEAK  (Bifteck  d'Aloyau). 

Select  a  good,  fleshy  middle  short  loin,  the  meat  being  pink  and  very  tender.  Cut 
slices  an  inch  and  three-quarters  thick,  in  the  tenderloin  and  sirloin,  sawing  away  the  spine 
bone  from  the  rib.  Cut  off  the  fat  and  sinews,  and 
trim  it  nicely  to  the  shape  of  the  accompanying 
plate;  after  trimming  it  should  weigh  two  pounds  and 
a  quarter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste 
over  with  oil  or  clarified  butter,  then  broil  on  a  slow, 
well  sustained  fire  for  fifteen  minutes  if  desired  rare, 
eighteen  minutes  if  properly  done,  and  well  cooked, 
twenty  minutes,  only  turning  it  over  once  in  the  middle  of 
cooking.  When  finished,  lay  the  steak  on  a  very  hot  dish, 
covering  it  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

It  is  easy  to  find  out  when  the  meat  is  done.  Press 
lightly  in  the  center  with  the  first  finger,  and  if  the  meat 
be  soft,  and  offering  a  slight  resistance,  then  it  is  cooked 
rare;  to  have  it  done  properly  it  must  be  firm,  without 
resisting  as  much  to  the  touch;  and  to  be  well  done,  it  must 

be  firm,  and  offer  resistance.     Practice  alone  can  teach  how  to  cook  by  the  touch,  which  differs 
according  to  the  quality  of  the  meat. 

(1363).  DOUBLE  POETEEHOUSE  STEAK  A  LA  SANPOED  (Bifteck  d'Aloyau  Double  a  la  Sanford) 
Mr.  Wright  Sanford,  one  of  the  most  fervent  disciples  of  the  house  of  Delmonico,  and  an 
acknowledged  epicurean,  was  specially  fond  of  ordering  this  dish.  Much  care  should  be  given  to 
its  cooking  which  must  operate  slowly,  while  maintaining  the  same  degree  of  heat  throughout, 
so  that  it  thoroughly  reaches  the  steak. 

Cut  through  all  the  thickness  of  the  short  loin  a  slice  two  and  a  quarter  inches  thick; 
it  should  weigh  after  being  trimmed,  four  pounds  and  a  half.  Season  with  salt,  cover  with 
oil,  and  broil  the  steak  on  a  slow,  but  well  sustained  fire  for  twenty-four  minutes  if  needed 
rare,  twenty-eight  minutes  to  be  properly  done,  and  thirty-two  minutes  if  desired  well  done. 
Turn  the  meat  over  when,  half  cooked,  dress  the  steak  on  a  very  hot  dish,  garnish  the  top 
with  ribbons  of  horseradish  (No.  98),  and  pour  around  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  well  buttered 
with  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(1364).  EIB  STEAK  A  LA  BEEOY    (Entrecote  a  la  Bercy). 

Take  the  chuck-ribs  of  prime  beef,  these  lying  under  the  shoulder.  Bone  and  cut  in 
slices  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness.  This  meat  requires  to  be  beaten  in  order  to  be 
made  tender,  then  lay  it  either  in  oil  or  melted  butter;  season  with  salt  and  mignonette  pepper, 
and  broil  on  a  very  slow  fire  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  When  the  meat  is  done,  set  it  OR 
a  very  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  the  following  sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  medium  sized  finely 
chopped  shallots,  some  finely  chopped  marrow,  the  same  quantity  of  butter  and  as  much  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley.  Let  cook  rapidly  on  a 

very  hot  fire  for  one  minute,  place  the  steak  on  a  very  warm  dish, 

and  pour  the  Bercy  sauce  over. 

(1365).  EIB  STEAK  A  LA  EOYEE    (Entrecote  a  la  Eoyer). 

Cut  from  the  thin  covered  part  of  a  rib  piece  slices  which  whei» 
pared  will  weigh  one  pound  and  a  quarter;  season  them  with  salt, 
rub  them  over  with  oil,  and  broil  them  over  a  rather  quick  fire  from 
eighteen  to  twenty-two  minutes.  Dress  them  on  a  dish,  and 
cover  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  into  which  incorporate  a 
piece  of  good  butter  and  some  chopped  up  truffles.  Garnish  around 
the  steak  with  stuffed  mushroom  heads  (No.  650). 

(1366).  EOUND  STEAK  WITH  WATEE-CEESS  (Bifteck  de  Noix  de 

Bceuf  au  Oresson). 

FlG-  m  Cut  from  the  round  top  of  a  young  beef,  the  meat  being  pink 

and  tender  slices  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick.     Season  them  with  salt  and  peppers,  coat 
them  over  with  sweet  oil,  and  broil  on  a  moderate,  well  sustained  fire  for  eight  or  ten  minutes;  as 


486  THE    EPICUREAN. 

soon  as  they  are  done  set  them  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  a  layer  of  maitre-d'hotel  butter 
(No.  581).  Wash  well  some  fresh  water-cress,  drain,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  vinegar,  garnish 
round  the  dish  with  it. 


(1367).  KUMP  STEAK  A  LA  VILLAGEOISE  (Bifteok  de  Pointe  Culotte  a  la  Villageoise). 

Only  young  beef  that  have  never  performed  any  labor  can  supply  tender  rump  steaks. 
Cut  transverse  slices  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thickness  from  a  rump  of  beef;  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter;  lay  them  on  the  grid- 
iron and  broil  over  a  brisk  fire  from  twelve  to  fourteen  minutes.  Chop  up  some  boiled,  peeled,  and 
cold  potatoes,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  sweet  cream;  boil 
them  once,  then  let  simmer  until  the  ingredients  have  sufficient  consistency.  Butter  the  inside  of 
a  baking  dish,  line  it  with  a  layer  of  these  potatoes,  besprinkle  over  with  bread  crumbs  and 
grated  parmesan  cheese,  and  put  to  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven.  Glaze  the  rump  steak  with  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  and  serve  it  on  top  of  the  potatoes. 

(1368).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK  OF  TWELVE  OUNCES,  PLAIN  (Bifteck  de  Oontrefilet  de  douze 

Onces,  Nature). 

Cut  slices  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick  from  a 
sirloin;  beat  them  to  flatten  them  down  to  one  inch, 
trim  nicely,  after  which  they  should  weigh  twelve 
ounces;  salt  on  both  sides,  spread  them  over  with  oil 
or  melted  butter,  and  broil  them  on  a  steady  fire;  it 

will  take  about  eight  minutes  to  have  them  very  rare, 
FIG  310 

ten  to  have  them  properly  done,  and  twelve  if  desired 

well  done;  set  them  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  or  maitre-d'hotel  butter 
(No.  581). 

(1369).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK  A  LA  BEARNAISE  (Bifteck  de  Oontrefilet  a  la  Be~arnaise). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  beefsteak  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1368);  apart  from  the  cooking  described 
by  minutes  in  that  number,  the  time  for  broiling  depends  entirely  upon  the  thickness  of  the 
meat,  and  the  intensity  of  the  fire.  In  order  to  judge  whether  the  meat  be  done  to  the  touch 
when  it  offers  a  certain  resistance;  this  can  easily  be  learned  after  once  being  accustomed  to 
broiling.  Dress  the  beefsteak  over  a  Bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433);  glaze  the  top  with  meat  glaze 
(No.  402)  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose. 

(1370).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK  A  LA  BORDELAISE  (Bifteck  de  Oontrefilet  a  la  Bordelaise). 

When  the  beefsteak  has  been  cooked  as  described  in  the  plain  (No.  1368)  lay  it  on  a  dish  and 
cover  with  Bordelaise  sauce  (No.  436). 

(1371).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK  A  LA  BORDELAISE  WITH  MARROW  (Bifteck  de  Contrefilet  a 

la  Bordelaise  et  a  la  Moelle). 

Cook  a  small  sirloin  steak  as  for  No.  1368,  then  arrange  it  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  cover  with 
a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Cut  four  ounces  of  beef  marrow  into  quarter-inch  thick  slices,  plunge 
them  into  boiling  water,  then  drain.  Dress  them  on  the  steak  and  cover  with  a  Bordelaise  sauce 
(No.  436). 

(1372).   SMALL   SIRLOIN  STEAK  A  LA  BORDELAISE  WITH  MARROW   AND   TRUFFLES 
(Bifteck  de  Oontrefilet  a  la  Bordelaise  a  la  Moelle  et  aux  Truffes). 

After  cooking  the  steak  the  same  as  a  plain  one  (No.  1368)  lay  it  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  cover 
with  the  following  sauce:  Cut  three  ounces  of  marrow  into  quarter  inch  thick  slices,  and  one 
ounce  of  truffles  in  thin  slices.  Parboil  the  marrow  and  drain  it  off;  heat  the  truffles  in  a  little 
Madeira  and  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Over  the  steak  arrange  the  marro\\  and  truffles  one  inter- 
calated with  the  other;  cover  with  Bordelaise  sauce  (No.  436)  and  serve. 


BEEF.  4S7 

(1373).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Bifteok  de  Oontrefilet  al'Ancienne). 
After  the  sirloin  is  cooked  as  in  the  plain  (No.  1368)  lay  it  on  a  dish,  besprinkling  it  over  with 
some  anchovy  butter  (No.  569).  Form  on  top  a  crown  of  anchovy  fillets  garnishing  the  interior 
with  capers,  and  set  round  the  steak  a  garnishing  of  potato  balls,  each  an  inch  in  diameter,  fried 
three  quarters  in  hot  fat,  and  finishing  cooking  in  the  oven  with  some  butter;  when  done  drain  off 
the  butter,  and  season  with  salt,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(1374).  SMALL  SIRLOIN  STEAK,  WITH  BUTTER  AND  COOKED  PINE  HERBS  (Bifteok  de 

Oontrefilet  au  Beurre  aux  et  Fine  Herbes  Ouites). 

After  the  beefsteak  is  cooked  as  explained  in  plain  (No.  1368)  dish  it  up  and  cover  the  top  with 
a  layer  of  butter  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Garnish  around  with  fresh  green  water- 
cresses,  seasoning  it  with  salt  and  vinegar. 

(1375).  DELMONIOO  SIRLOIN  STEAK  OP  TWENTY  OUNCES,  PLAIN  (Bifteck  de  Contrefilet  Del- 

monico  de  Vingt  Onces,  Nature). 

Cut  from  a  sirloin  slices  two  inches  in  thickness;  beat  them  to  flatten  them  to  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick,  trim  nicely;  they  should  now  weigh  twenty  ounces  each;  salt  them  on  both  sides,  baste 
them  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter,  and  broil  them  on  a  moderate  fire  for  fourteen  minutes  if 
desired  very  rare;  eighteen  to  be  done  properly,  and  twenty-two  to  be  well  done.  Set  them  on  a 
hot  dish  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  or  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(1376).  DELMONICO  SIRLOIN  STEAK  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Bifteck  de  Contrefilet  Delmomco 

a  la  Perigueux). 

After  cooking  the  steak  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1375),  lay  it  over  a  Perigueux  sauce 
(No.  517),  into  which  mix  the  third  of  its  quantity  of  small  chicken  quenelles,  forced  through  a 
cornet  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  glazing  it  with  meat  glaze. 

(1377).  DELMONICO  SIRLOIN  STEAK,  SPANISH  STYLE  (Bifteck  de  Contrefilet  Delmonico  a 

1'Espagnole). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  sirloin  steak  as  described  for  plain  (No.  1375).  Chop  up  separately  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  beef  free  of  sinews,  and  the  same  quantity  of  fresh  pork.  Mix  these 
together  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  one  egg-yolk;  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  then  divide  the  preparation  into  four  parts;  roll  it  on  a  floured  table  into 
balls,  flatten  them  to  half  an  inch  thick,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  them 


FIG.  311. 

in  bread-crumbs;  smooth  this  with  the  blade  of  a  knife;  plunge  them  into  very  hot 
fat  for  two  minutes  to  brown  the  outsides.  Drain  and  lay  them  one  beside  the  other 
in  a  sautoir  moistening  them  to  their  height  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  let  simmer  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  basting  them  frequently.  Brown  in  oil  four  ounces  of  minced  onions, 
add  to  it  four  ounces  ot  finely  minced  green  peppers,  one  clove  of  garlic,  half  a  pound  of  peeled 
tomatoes  cut  in  four  and  pressed;  let  cook  together  and  reduce  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414) 
and  gravy  (No.  404).  Lay  the  garnishing  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  the  glazed  steak  on  top,  and 
the  hash  balls  over,  one  overlapping  the  other. 

U378).  SIRLOIN  STEAK  POR  GOURMETS;  EXTRA  FORTY  OUNCES  (Bifteck  de  Oontrefilet  des 

Gourmets ;  Extra  Quarante  Onces). 

Cut  from  a  good  thick  sirloin  of  beef,  slices,  each  one  being  four  to  five  inches  thick;    beat 
to  flatten  them  down  to  three  inches,  then  trim  them  carefully,  salt  them  on  both  sides,  cover  with 


488 


THE    EPICUREAN 


either  clarified  butter  or  melted  marrow,  and  place  in  a  double  gridiron  and  broil  them  over  a  moderate 
fire  for  twenty  minutes  if  desired  rare,  twenty-six  minutes  to  have  them  properly  done,  and  thirty 
minutes  when  needed  to  be  well  done.  Lay  them  on  top  of  a  gravy  prepared  as  follows:  Have 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  shallot,  fry  it  colorless  in  three  ounces  of  butter,  add  some 


FIG.  312. 

melted  glaze  (No.  402),  stir  in  four  ounces  of  fine  butter,  a  teaspoon ful  of  the  best  tarragon  vinegar, 
chopped  parsley,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  two  ounces  of  beef  marrow  cut  into  half  inch 
squares.  When  the  marrow  is  warm,  pour  it  on  the  dish,  lay  the  extra  size  steak  on  top,  glaze 
it  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  garnish  around  with  gastronome  potatoes  (No.  2789). 

(1379).  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF.  HOW  TO  PEEPAEE  (Pour  Preparer  le  Filet  de  Bcenf), 
The  tenderloin  is  found  in  the  inside  of  the  short  loin  in  the  hollow  formed  under  the  spinal 
bone.  Detach  the  tenderloin  from  the  spinal  bone  of  a  middle  short  loin  by  following  the  bone 
with  the  knife;  then  displace  it  from  the  flat  bone  and  from  the  spinal  bone,  scraping  it  off  so  that 
no  meat  remains  on  the  bones.  Remove  the  fat  and  large  nerves  and  with  a  thin  knife  remove  the 
hard  skin  covering  the  tenderloin.  It  is  to  be  served  whole  or  else  cut  up.  Use  the  middle  slices 
for  Chateaubriands;  for  ten  ounce  tenderloin  steaks  use  on  each  side  of  the  Chateaubriand,  for 
mignons,  noisettes  and  tournedos  the  thin  end  and  the  other  end  for  grenadins;  the  head  part  is 
also  used  for  mincing,  for  Salisbury  steaks,  Hamburg  steaks,  etc. 

(1380).  CHATEAUBEIAND,  PLAIN  TWENTY  OUNCES  (Chateaubriand  Nature  Vingt  Onces). 

The  name  of  Chateaubriand  is  given  to  the  piece  of  meat  taken  from  the  middle  of  a  large 
tenderloin.     After  it  has  been  nicely  trimmed,  the  Chateaubriand  should  weigh  twenty  ounces,  or 
a  pound  and  a  quarter.     Flatten  it  down  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch  and  a  quarters,  put  it  to  cook 
on  a  broiler  over  a  slow  but  regular  fire  for  sixteen  minutes  if  needed  exceptionally  rare,  eigthteen 
minutes  when  properly  done,  and  twenty  for  well  done.     Serve  on  a  hot 
dish  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  or  gravy. 

(1381).  CEATEAUBEIAND,  COLBEET  SAUCE  (Chateaubriand  Sauce 

Colbert). 

Season  a  Chateaubriand  with  some  salt,  brush  it  over  with  oil,  and 
broil  on  a  slow,  regular  fire.  Lay  it  on  a  dish,  and  garnish  the  two 
ends  with  potatoes  cut  olive-shaped  and  fried  in  butter,  and  cover  with 
the  following  sauce:  Reduce  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414). 
When  well  reduced,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  boil  again,  and  when 
ready  to  serve,  incorporate  therein  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
some  chopped  parsley,  and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon. 

(1382).  OHATEAUBEIAND  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE,  THICKENED  (Chateaubriand  Sauce  Maitre 

d'Hotel    Liee). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  Chateaubriand  as  for  No.  1380,  lay  it  on  a  dish;  reduce  some  veloute 
(No.  415)  with  white  wine;  add  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  incorporate  into  it  when  ready 
to  serve  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581).  Cover  the  whole  Chateaubriand  with  this,  and  gar- 
nish the  dish  with  potatoes  prepared  as  follows:  Cut  up  some  potatoes  into  large  six-sided  olive 
shapes;  first  blanch,  then  finish  to  cook  in  clarified  butter  or  else  in  lard  over  a  good  fire,  keeping 
them  covered  until  they  become  soft  and  browned;  drain  off  the  fat  and  put  in  some  small  pieces 
of  fresh  butter,  salt  and  chopped  parsley,  serve  as  a  garnishing. 


FIG.  313. 


BEEF.  489 

(1353).  DOUBLE  CHATEAUBRIAND,  TWO  AND  A  HALF  POUNDS  WITH  SOUFFLED  POTATOES 
(Chateaubriand  Double  de  Deux  Livres  et  Demie  aux  Pommes  Souffle'es). 

Season  well  the  meat  with  salt,  rub  sweet  oil  over  both  sides,  and  broil  on  a  slow,  regular  fire; 
for  rare,  twenty  minutes;  properly  done,  twenty-six  minutes,  and  well  done,  thirty  minutes.  It 
is  preferable  to  broil  it  on  a  double-hinged  broiler  without  pressing  it  down,  and  turning  over  when 
half  cooked.  When  done,  set  it  on  a  large  hot  dish,  spread  over  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No. 
581),  letting  the  dish  be  sufficiently  large  to  contain  a  quantity  of  souffled  potatoes  (No.  2808). 
It  is  better  to  serve  a  single  Chateaubriand,  for  the  excessive  thickness  of  a  double  one  renders 
the  cooking  of  it  doubtful,  yet  it  is  a  dish  epicureans  frequently  call  for. 

(1384).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  PLAIN  FIVE  OUNCES  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  Nature 

de  cinq  onces  Chaque). 

From  a  raw  and  well  trimmed  tenderloin  of  beef,  cut  lengthwise  of  the  meat, 
half  heart  shaped  slices,  five  inches  long  by  two  and  a  half  inches  wide,  and  half  an 
inch  thick.  Beat  them  lightly,  trim  evenly,  and  lard  them  on  one  side  with  rows  of 
fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52).  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  some  fat  or 
clarified  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  and  when  very  hot,  lay  in  the  grenadins  on  their  larded 
side;  four  minutes  later  when  a  fine  color,  turn  them  over;  it  will  take  about  eight 
or  ten  minutes  to  cook  them  rare.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  some  clear  gravy 
over  (No.  404). 

Fio.  314. 

(1385).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  A  LA  BEAUMAROHAIS  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Boeufak 

Beaumarchais). 

Cook  the  prepared  grenadins  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1384);  drain  off  half  the  butter,  and  to 
the  remainder  add  a  coffeespoonful  of  finely  chopped,  blanched,  and  drained  shallot,  fry  this  color- 
less, then  put  in  a  little  veloute  (No.  415),  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks;  butter  well  with  good, 
fresh  butter,  and  add  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  lemon  juice;  strain  through  a  tammy;  now 
mix  into  the  sauce  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Pour  the  sauce  on  the  dish  intended  for  serving; 
the  grenadins,  and  arrange  them  either  in  a  straight  row  or  in  a  circle;  surround  with  as  many 
croustades  as  there  are  grenadins,  these  croustades  to  be  filled  with  mushrooms  stewed  in 
cream.  Serve  a  slightly  thickened  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  separately. 

(1386).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  A  LA  BONIFACE  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Boniface). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  grenadins  as  explained  in  plain  grenadins  (No.  1384),  drain  them  on  a 
cloth,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  cover  them  with  a  bordelaise  sauce  with  mushrooms  (No.  436), 
garnishing  the  dish  with  marrow  fritters  (No.  682). 

(1387).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  A  LA  HALEVY  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Hale"vy). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  grenadins  as  for  No.  1384.  Plunge  some  good,  sound  tomatoes  in 
boiling  water,  peel  them,  cut  them  crosswise  in  two,  squeeze  them  without  injuring  their  shape, 
and  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt.  Heat  some  oil  in  an  omelet  pan,  and  when  very  hot, 
put  in  the  halved  tomatoes;  cook  them,  then  arrange  them  crown-shaped  on  a  dish,  lay  a  grenadin 
on  each  tomato  and  garnish  around  with  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  650).  Serve  a  well  reduced  and 
well  buttered  half-glaze  sauce  separately  (No.  413). 

(1388).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  AS  VENISON,  POIVRADE  SAUCE  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de 

Boauf  en  Ohevreuil,  Sauce  Poivrade). 

Trim  some  slices  of  tenderloin,  cut  lengthwise,  and  shape  them  in  half-heart  forms.  Marinate 
them  for  three  days  in  a  cooked  and  cold  marinade  (No.  114).  Drain  and  dry  them,  then  fry  in 
an  omelet  pan  in  hot  clarified  fat  on  a  very  quick  fire.  When  .done  rare,  drain  and  lay  them  on 
slices  ot  bread  fried  in  butter,  cut  the  same  size  and  shape.  Pour  over  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522.) 


490  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1389).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  MARC  AURELE  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Marc 

Aurele). 

Prepare  a  pate-a-chou  (No.  132);  spread  from  a  pocket  on  a  baking  sheet  pieces  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  when  they  are  cooked  they  should  be  about  two  inches 
in  diameter.  Egg  them  twice  with  a  soft  brush  and  dredge  over  the  half  of  them  some  grated 
parmesan  cheese,  and  the  other  half  finely  chopped  truffles.  Bake  them  in  a  slow  oven  until  dry. 
Kemove  them  from  the  baking  sheet,  and  cut  off  all  the  bottoms.  Fill  those  covered  with  cheese, 
with  small  macaroni  cut  in  quarter  inch  lengths  mixed  with  tongue  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares, 
season  and  add  a  litttle  veloute  (No.  415),  some  butter,  mignonette  pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  toss 
in  a  saucepan  without  using  a  spoon.  Fill  those  covered  with  truffles  with  a  little  mace'doine  of 
vegetables  cut  ball-shaped,  each  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Push  through  a  cornet  at  the 
edge  of  the  opening  of  the  choux  a  row  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Restore  the  bottoms  and 
fasten  them  on  with  chicken  forcemeat,  lay  them  on  a  plate  in  the  oven  for  one  minute  to  poach 
the  forcemeat.  Cook  the  grenadins  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1384);  when  done,  drain  and  arrange 
them  in  a  row,  garnishing  one  side  of  the  dish  with  maccaroni  and  parmesan  choux,  and  the  other 
with  the  macedoine  and  truffles.  Serve  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  at  the  same  time. 

(1390).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN,  PALADIO  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Paladio). 

Cut  lengthwise  from  a  tenderloin  some  slices  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  shape  them  like 
half  hearts,  then  lard  them  with  small  pieces  of  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52).  Garnish  the 
bottom  of  a  sautoir  with  slices  of  bacon,  place  on  top  finely  cut  onions  and  carrots,  and  set  the 
grenadins  above.  Moisten  with  Beef  stock  (No.  194a),  cover  the  saucepan,  and  reduce  until  dry. 
Moisten  again,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  then  set  it  in  the  oven  to  cook,  basting  it 
frequently  during  the  time.  Glaze  them  a  fine  color,  then  have  pieces  of  cooked  ham  the  same 
shape,  fry  them  in  butter  with  sliced  apples.  Arrange  the  cooked  ham  on  a  dish,  put  grenadins  on 
top,  reduce  the  gravy,  strain,  and  remove  the  fat,  mixing  in  some  espagnole  (No.  414)  reduced 
with  Madeira  wine,  and  pour  it  over  the  grenadins.  Garnish  the  dish  with  the  slices  of  fried  apples. 

(1391).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN,  PREVILLOT  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  I  la  Previllot). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  grenadins  as  for  plain  grenadins  (No.  1384);  arrange  them  on  top  of 
some  half  heart-shaped  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  grenadins, 
and  cover  them  with  a  Previllot  salpicon  (No.  749). 

(1392).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  WITH  CELERY,  BECHAMEL  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

an  Oeleri,  Bechamel). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  grenadins,  as  for  plain  (No.  1384).  Cut  in  quarter  of  an  inch  squares 
some  tender  and  white  celery;  blanch  it  in  plenty  of  salted  water,  drain  and  dry  well;  then  fry 
them  in  butter  without  browning.  Moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  and  when  cooked,  mix  in 
a  little  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  fresh  cream.  Reduce,  pour  it  on  a  dish,  and  arrange  the  glazed 
grenadins  on  top. 

(1393).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  WITH  ROUND  POTATOES,  VALOIS  SAUCE  (Grenadins 

de  Filet  de  Bceuf  aux  Pommes  de  Terre  en  Boules  a  la  Sauce  Valois). 

Arrange  and  cook  the  grenadins  as  for  plain  (No.  1384),  glaze  and  lay  them  on  a  piece  of 
poached  quenelle  forcemeat  shaped  like  a  half  heart.  Cover  with  a  Valois  sauce  (No.  554), 
surround  the  grenadins  with  round  potatoes  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  previously  fried 
in  butter  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(1394).  GRENADINS  OF  TENDERLOIN  WITH  SWEET  PEPPERS  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Boeuf 

aux  Piments  Doux). 

Proceed  and  cook  the  grenadins  as  for  plain  (No.  1384),  glaze  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  garnish- 
ing it  with  sauted  sweet  peppers  prepared  as  follows:  Plunge  the  peppers  in  hot  frying  fat,  remove 
the  peel  covering  the  outside  by  rubbing  with  a  dry  cloth;  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise,  and  fry 
them  in  oil,  turning  them  over  carefully  while  cooking.  When  done  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
a  clove  of  garlic  crushed,  drain  them  from  the  oil,  and  finish  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402), 
butter,  lemon  juice  and  fine  herbs.  Preserved  sweet  peppers  can  always  be  obtained ;  it  is  only 
necessary  to  drain  them,  fry  them  in  butter  or  oil,  adding  a  little  garlic,  lemon  juice  and  fine  herbs. 


BETCF.  491 

(1395).  MINCED  TENDEELOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  ANDREWS  (Emmce"  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la 

Andrews). 

Pare  and  trim  well  all  the  fat  from  off  a  tenderloin,  cut  it  lengthwise  to  obtain  escalops  or  small 
slices  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  the  weight  to  be  one  ounce. 
Prepare  the  same  quantity  of  veal  kidney;  cut  it  in  pieces  of  the  same  thickness  and  one  inch  in 
diameter.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  sautoir  and  when  very  hot  and  slightly  browned,  add 
the  tenderloin  and  afterward  the  veal  kidney.  Cook  them  on  a  quick  fire,  seasoning  with  salt, 
pepper  and  lemon  juice;  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish. 

(1396).  MINCED  TENDEKLOIN  A  LA  BEEKMAN  (Emincfi  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Beekman). 

Cut  into  thin  slices  six  ounces  of  cold  tenderloin  of  beef,  either  roasted  or  braised.  Place  in  a 
saucepan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  boil  and  skim;  add  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  a 
little  Worcestershire  sauce,  half  as  much  mushroom  catsup,  then  the  slices  of  beef.  Cover  the 
saucepan,  set  it  in  the  oven,  but  do  not  allow  the  liquid  to  boil,  as  it  hardens  the  meat,  then  when 
the  tenderloin  is  quite  warm,  serve  it  lengthwise  on  a  dish.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  strainer, 
covering  the  meat  with  it. 

(1397).  MINCED  TENDEELOIN,  CREOLE  STYLE,  (Emince"  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Crlole\ 
Cut  six  ounces  of  tenderloin  of  beef  lengthwise,  shape  the  slices  into  escalops  an  inch  and 
a  half  in  diameter,  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Saute  them  in  butter,  when  ready 
take  the  meat  out  and  keep  it  warm  between  two  dishes,  adding  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  with 
part  of  its  fat,  some  halved  tomatoes  peeled,  pressed  and  fried  in  butter,  also  some  green 
peppers  sliced  fine  and  fried  in  butter.  Season  highly,  arrange  the  minced  meat  in  a  border 
of  rice  boiled  in  salted  water  to  which  half  an  ounce  of  butter  has  been  added,  and  serve. 

(1398).  MINCED  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  POTATO   CEOQUETTES  (Emmce"  de  Filet  de 

Bceuf  aux  Croquettes  de  Pommes). 

Cut  into  thin  slices  the  best  part  of  a  cold  roast  tenderloin,  to  weigh  about  four  ounces,  then 
pare  them  to  make  them  of  an  even  size.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  add  to  it  two 
teaspoonf uls  of  finely  chopped  onions,  also  four  spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms.  When  the  mois- 
ture from  the  mushrooms  has  evaporated  wet  them  with  four  spoonfuls  of  Marsala  wine,  reduce 
again  to  half,  then  thicken  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Heat  the  slices  of  beef  between 
two  dishes  with  the  addition  of  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  not  allowing  it  to  boil.  If  the 
tenderloin  was  previously  braised  instead  of  roasted,  then  the  meat  should  be  cut  thicker,  and 
heated  in  the  sauce  for  twenty  five  minutes  without  boiling;  arrange  it  on  a  dish  either  in  one 
or  two  rows,  and  cover  with  the  sauce.  Surround  the  meat  with  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782), 
formed  into  balls  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  flattened. 

(1399).  MINIONS  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF— PLAIN  (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  Nature). 

Trim  carefully  a  tenderloin  of  beef,  remove  all  the  fat  and  nerves,  then  cut  it 
into  slices  each  one  weighing  five  ounces;  beat  them  lightly  to  have  them  all  of 
the  same  thickness,  then  pare  and  cut  them  into  round  shapes.  Salt  on  both 
sides,  dip  them  in  melted  butter  or  sweet  oil,  and  broil  on  a  moderate,  well-sus- 
tained fire;  they  should  take  six  minutes  if  desired  rare,  eight  minutes  to  have 
them  properly  done,  and  ten  minutes  if  required  well  done.  When  half  cooked 
turn  them  over  and  finish  on  the  other  side.  Dress  on  a  hot  dish  and  pour  some  FIG.  315. 

clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over. 

(1400).  MINIONS  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BAILLAED   (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a 

la  Baillard). 

First  cook  the  minions  the  same  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1399);  dress  them  flat  on  a  very  hot  dish; 
on  each  minion  lay  a  piece  of  foies-gras  removing  it  from  the  terrine  with  a  spoon.  Cover  the 
whole  with  good  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  to  which  has  been  added  truffles  cut  in  fine  Julienne  and 
fresh  mushrooms. 

(1401).  MINIONS  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  CECEEON   (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Ohe~ron). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  minions  as  explained  in  the  plain  (No.  1399).  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  dish 
with  a  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  sprinkle  over  with  some  chopped  parsley,  and  lay  the  minions  on 
top,  and  on  each  one  set  an  artichoke  bottom  slightly  smaller  than  the  minion,  and  previously 
cooked  and  sauted  in  butter.  Garnish  with  a  little  macedoine  thickened  with  veloute  (No.  415), 
and  fine  butter,  and  season  well. 


492  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1402),  MINIONS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  DUMAS    (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Dumas), 

When  the  minions  are  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  plain  (No.  1399),  lay  each  one  on  a  round 
slice  of  unsmoked  but  cooked  beef  tongue;  let  these  be  the  same  diameter  as  the  minion  and  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Reduce  a  veloute  (No.  415)  and  soubise  sauce  (No.  543)  to  half, 
and  when  ready  to  serve  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  raw  cream,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Cover 
the  minions  with  this  sauce,  strew  over  grated  fresh  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  cheese, 
and  sprinkle  with  clarified  butter;  brown  in  a  very  hot  oven  or  under  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123), 
and  garnish  the  dish  with  ham  croquettes  shaped  like  small  crescents,  then  serve. 

Ham  Croquettes. — Have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  squares.  A 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms  cut  the  same  dimensions  from  which  you  will  have  pressed  out 
all  the  moisture,  add  a  little  reduced  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  season  with  pepper  and  nutmeg  (no 
salt).  Put  on  the  fire,  and  when  cooked  lay  them  on  a  dish  to  get  cold,  then  divide  the  prepara- 
tion into  balls  each  an  inch  in  diameter;  roll  them  longways  and  shape  them  into  crescents,  dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  grated  bread-crumbs  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat  a  fine  color. 

(1403  \  MINIONS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  FEARING  (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Fearing). 

After  the  minions  are  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1399),  lay  them  on 
round  flat  poached  quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat  mixed  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  the  same 
size  as  the  minions,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Glaze  the  minions  with  meat  glaze 
(No.  402),  and  garnish  around  with  a  garnishing  prepared  as  follows:  Put  some  financiere 
sauce  (No.  464)  into  a  saucepan,  add  balls  of  game  forcemeat  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  some  olives, 
mushrooms,  artichoke  bottoms  divided  into  six  pieces,  a  few  cocks'-combs,  or  beef  palates  cut  the 
same  shape  as  the  cocks'-combs,  cock's-kidneys,  and  whole  truffles. 

(1404).  MINIONS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MEYERBEER  (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Boeuf 

a  la  Meyerbeer). 

The  tenderloin  is  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1399),  and  when  done 
properly  prepare  a  Piedmontese  risot  (No.  2981).  Garnish  the  center  of  a  dish  with  this, 
piling  it  high  and  dome-shaped;  then  glaze  the  minions,  and  arrange  them  around  the 
rice.  Divide  some  lamb  or  mutton  kidneys  in  two,  having  half  a  kidney  for  each  minion;  season 
these  with  salt,  and  pepper,  then  saute"  them  in  some  butter  on  a  hot  fire.  When  done,  drain  off 
the  butter,  add  a  little  fresh  butter  and  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  toss  the  kidneys  in  this. 
Lay  half  a  kidney  on  top  of  each  minion,  serving  at  the  same  time,  but  separately,  a  sauce-boatful 
of  sauce  Perigueux  (No.  517). 

(1405).  MINIONS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  SALVINI  (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la 

Salvini). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  minions  as  for  plain  (No.  1399),  lay  them  on  a  dish,  glaze  them,  and 
place  on  top  of  each  minion  a  slice  of  plainly  cooked  duck's  liver  the  same  shape,  but  smaller 
than  the  minion,  and  on  top  of  each  piece  of  liver,  a  slice  of  black  truffle.  Cover  the  minions 
with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  with  parmesan  cheese,  adding  to  it  some  minced  mushrooms 
and  chopped  parsley.  Brown  in  a  very  hot  oven  or  under  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(1406).  MINIONS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  STANLEY  (Mignons  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Stanley). 

After  preparing  and  cooking  the  minions  as  described  in  plain  minions  (No.  1399),  glaze 
them  with  a  brush,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish.  Remove  the  peel  from  several  bananas,  cut 
them  lengthwise  in  two,  and  cut  each  half  across;  roll  the  pieces  in  flour,  and  plunge  them  to 
fry  in  very  hot  oil.  Fry  in  butter  without  browning,  one  small  onion  weighing  an  ounce  and 
chopped  up  very  fine;  moisten  this  with  one  gill  of  cream,  reduce  and  strain  through  a  sieve, 
then  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks  stirred  up  in  cre<tm.  Add  some  freshly  grated  horseradish,  until 
the  preparation  thickens  well,  then  season  with  salt.  Warm  this  without  boiling,  garnish  the 
minions  with  it,  having  it  an  inch  deep  and  bomb-shaped.  Sprinkle  chopped  parsley  over  the  top, 
and  set  on  each  one,  a  quarter  of  a  fried  banana. 


BEEF.  493 

(1407).  MINIONS  OP  TENDEELOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  VEENON  (Mignons  de  Pilet  de  Bceuf  k  la 

Vernon). 

To  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1399).  Set  them  on  a  dish  on 
top  of  slices  of  bread  cut  the  same  size,  and  fried  in  butter.  Garnish  around  with  cucumbers  cut 
into  olive-shaped  pieces,  blanched,  drained,  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  some  veloute' (No.  415),  and 
quarter  inch  squares  of  celery,  blanched  until  nearly  cooked.  Boil  slowly  till  the  cucumbers  are 
done,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  stir  into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  spread  this  over  each  minion, 
and  on  each  one  lay  a  slice  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  or  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  seasoned  with 
a  little  cayenne  pepper;  throw  a  little  chopped  parsley  over  the  red  butter. 

(1408).  MINIONS  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  CEPES  A  LA  BOEDELAISE  (Mignons  de 

Filet  de  Bceuf  aux  Cepes  k  la  Bordelaise). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  minions  as  indicated  in  plain  minions  (No-  1399).  Glaze  and 
garnish  them  around  with  a  garnishing  of  cepes  a  la  bordelaise  made  as  follows:  Choose 
medium  s.zed  cepes,  not  too  large,  remove  the  stalks,  and  trim  them  without  altering  their  shape. 
Pour  some  oil  in  a  pan,  and  when  hot,  throw  in  the  cepes,  color,  season,  and  reduce  the  moisture. 
Finish  cooking  them  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  some  chopped  parsley,  and  a  little  garlic 
crushed  and  chopped  fine.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  Madeira  sauce. 

(1409).  MINIONS  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  CHESTNUTS,  MAESALA  SAUCE  (Mignons 

de  Filet  de  Bceuf  aux  Matrons,  Sauce  Marsala). 

Have  the  minions  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1399).  Split  open 
the  sides  of  some  chestnuts,  plunge  them  into  very  hot  fat,  or  roast  them  in  the  oven;  remove  the 
outside  peel,  also  the  inside  skin,  blanch  them  in  plenty  of  water,  then  cook  them  in  broth  (No. 
194a)  with  a  little  butter  added,  and  a  stalk  of  celery.  When  thoroughly  done,  drain,  and  use 
only  those  which  have  remained  whole  and  intact;  return  these  to  the  saucepan  adding  a  little 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  some  Marsala  wine.  Dress  the  glazed  minions  on  a  bread  crofrton 
fried  in  butter,  and  garnish  them  with  the  chestnuts  either  around  or  inside  should  they  be  ar- 
ranged crown-shaped.  Pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(1410).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF,  PLAIN  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  Nature). 

Trim  a  tenderloin  of  beef,  cut  it  in  slices  and  beat  lightly  to  flatten  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  then  trim  them  again  round-shaped;  each  one  should  weigh  three 
ounces.  Salt  them  on  both  sides;  put  half  oil  and  half  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  set 
it  on  a  hot  fire,  place  therein  the  meat,  and  let  cook  quickly.  It  will  take  about  five 
minutes  to  have  them  rare,  seven  minutes  to  cook  them  properly,  and  eight  minutes 
if  desired  well  done.  When  finished,  remove,  lay  them  on  a  plate,  glaze  and 
serve  on  a  dish  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  poured  around. 

(1411).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BEETHIEE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

k  la  Berthier). 

Prepare  the  noisettes  as  for  No.  1410,  set  them  in  an  earthen  dish,  then  season  them  with 
salt  and  mignonette,  oil,  vinegar,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  sprigs  of  parsley  and  sliced  onions.  Leave 
them  in  this  pickle  for  three  hours,  then  drain  the  pieces,  wipe  dry,  and  saute  them  with  butter  on  a 
hot  fire.  When  done  dress  them  over  a  tomato  sauce  (No.549)  with  horseradish,  stirring  in  a  little 
finely  chopped  blanched  and  lightly  fried  shallots.  Stuff  some  Spanish  olives  with  anchovies,  put 
them  in  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  warm  them  in  a  slow  oven,  remove  the  papers,  glaze  the  olives, 
and  garnish  the  noisettes  with  these.  Three  olives  are  sufficient  for  each  noisette. 

(1412).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BONNEFOY  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

k  la  Bonnefoy). 

Arrange,  prepare  and  cook  the  noisettes  as  explained  for  plain  (No.  1410).  Dish  them 
and  pour  over  a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Put  some  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  into  a  small 
saucepan,  stir  it  well  with  a  whip  and  mixing  in  with  it  the  same  quantity  of  butter;  season 
with  mignonette,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley.  Cut  some  pieces  of  beef  marrow,  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  and  drain  them.  Have  double  the  quantity  of  thin 
slices  of  mushrooms;  lay  the  mushroons  and  marrow  intercalated  in  some  tartlet  molds,  dressing 
them  dome-shape  fill  up  with  sauce;  put  them  on  ice.  When  cold  unmould  them  by  dipping  the 
molds  in  hot  water;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  good  coloi. 
Dress  them  crowned-shaped  around  the  noisettes,  allowing  two  pieces  of  fritter  for  each  noisette. 


494  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1413),  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OP  BEEP  A  LA  PLEUKETTE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bomf 

a  la  Fleurette). 

Prepare  the  noisettes  as  explained  in  noisettes  plain  (No.  1410),  season  them  and  lay 
them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  them  a  little  cold  cooked  marinade  (No.  114),  and  some  Madeira 
wine.  Let  macerate  for  three  hours,  then  drain  and  dry  them  on  a  cloth.  Saute  them  in  butter, 
and  when  properly  done,  after  seven  minutes,  remove  and  glaze  them.  Drain  the  butter 
from  the  stewpan,  put  in  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  413),  reduce,  while  adding  the  marinade,  a 
very  little  at  the  time,  and  when  nicely  reduced,  finish  with  a  little  good  cream.  Strain  the  whole 
through  a  tammy  (No.  159)  and  mix  in  some  finely  minced  chives.  Place  each  noisette  on  a  thin 
slice  of  bread,  browned  in  butter,  lay  them  on  a  dish  and  cover  each  with  the  gravy. 

(1414).  NOISETTES  OP  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEP  A  LA  MAGNY  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la 

Magny). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  noisettes  of  tenderloins  the  same  way  as  explained  in  No.  1410;  when 
done  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  place  on  top  of  each  noisette  a  thin  slice  of  fattened  goose  liver  (foies- 
gras  d'oie).  Pour  over  a  sauce  allemande  (No.  407),  mixing  in  with  it  a  quarter  of  its  quantity  of 
grated  parmesan  cheese.  Besprinkle  with  more  grated  cheese,  baste  over  with  a  little  melted 
butter  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven  or  under  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(1415).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEP  A  LA  MAIEE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  &  la 

Maire). 

The  noisettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef  are  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  plain  noisettes 
(No.  1410);  glaze  them,  and  lay  them  over  a  garnishing  of  potatoes  maltre  d'hotel  (No.  2795). 
Serve  separately  a  half-glaze  (No.  400)  with  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  with  chopped  fine  herbs 
added,  and  stir  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

(1416).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  NigOISE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bomf  a  la 

Niyoise). 

When  the  noisettes  are  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  noisettes  (No.  1410), 
dress  them  on  a  layer  of  tomatoes  previously  skinned,  halved,  squeezed  and  fried  in  hot 
oil  mixed  with  eighth  of  an  inch  squares  of  cut  ham;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a 
taste  of  garlic.  Lay  these  tomatoes  inside  a  border  made  of  risot  Piemontaise  (No.  2981).  Glaze 
the  noisettes,  set  them  inside  the  border  and  garnish  around  the  outside  with  small  potato  balls 
half  an  inch  in  size,  and  cooked  in  butter  with  chopped  parsley  strewed  over. 

(1417).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  EOSSINI  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  k  la 

Eossini). 

These  noisettes  are  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  noisettes  (No.  1410).  Glaze  and 
lay  them  on  small  slices  of  bread,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  the  same  diameter  as  the 
noisettes  fried  in  butter.  Choose  some  very  large  white,  chicken  livers,  cut  them  ink  thick 
slices,  saute"  them  in  some  butter,  and  set  a  slice  on  each  noisette,  and  on  top  of  this  a  fine 
round  slice  of  truffle.  Mask  the  whole  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  with  essence  of  truffle 
(No.  395)  added  to  it. 

(1418).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDEELOIN  OF  BEEF  IN  SUEPEISE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  en 

Surprise), 

Fry  in  butter  without  browning,  a  finely  chopped,  blanched  shallot;  add  to  it  half  a 
pint  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Boil 
and  skim  well,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped 
truffles,  two  ounces  of  chopped  ham  and  some  raw  chopped  fine  herbs.  Season  properly,  let  get 
cold,  and  then  prepare  eighteen  noisettes  plain  as  for  No.  1410.  Make  an  incision  on  the 
side  of  each,  fill  these  with  the  cold  preparation,  season,  and  dip  the  pieces  in  beaten  eggs,  then 
roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter.  Remove  from  the  fire,  set  them  on  a 
plate,  glaze,  and  dish  them  over  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  having  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  added. 

(1419).    NOISETTES    OF    TENDEELOIN    OP    BEEF,  TEIUMVLE  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

Triumvir). 

From  the  heart  of  a  small  tenderloin  of  beef  beaten  until  excessively  tender,  cut  some 
slices  which  after  being  flattened  and  pared  should  weigh  three  ounces  each,  and  be  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  all  trimmed  to  equal  size;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 


BEEF.  495 

cook  them  on  a  quick  fire  for  three  minutes;  turn  over,  and  cook  them  for  three  minutes  more. 
Glaze  and  cover  with  a  white  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433);  place  in  the  center  of  each  noisette 
a  triangle  of  very  black  truffle  warmed  in  some  good  gravy  with  a  few  tarragon  leaves,  and  some 
meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Pour  this  gravy  round  the  bearnaise. 

(1420).  NOISETTES  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  PUREE  OF  MUSHROOMS  (Noisettes  de 

Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Puree  de  Champignons). 

These  are  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  plain  noisettes  (No.  1410).  Glaze  and  lay 
them  in  round,  flat  croustades  made  with  either  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  or  very  fine  parings  of 
puff  paste,  and  garnished  with  a  mushroom  puree  (No.  722). 

(1421).  PAUPIETTES  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  COOKED  FINE  HERBS  (Paupiettes  de 

Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Fines  Herbes  Cuites). 

Cut  lengthwise  from  a  pared  tenderloin  ten  slices  five  inches  long  by  two  and  a  quarter  wide  and 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  beat  them  lightly,  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  cover  one  side  with  a  layer  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385), 
thickened  with  a  little  well  reduced  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Roll  the  paupiettes 
into  cylindrical  forms  one  and  three-quarters  in  diameter;  roll  them  inside  a 
barde  of  fat  pork,  maintain  them  in  shape  with  two  turns  of  string;  range  the 
paupiettes  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  wet  with  mirepoix  stock  FIG.  317. 

(No.  419),  to  half  their  heighth  arid  then  reduce  the  moistening  entirely.  Eemoisten 
and  finish  to  cook  slowly  in  the  oven;  when  done  pare  and  dress  them  on  a  dish;  strain  and  skim 
the  fat  from  the  stock,  reduce  it  with  a  little  white  wine  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and 
pour  it  over  the  paupiettes. 

(1422).  PILAU    A  LA  REGLAIN  (Pilau  a  laReglain.) 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire;  when  the  butter  is  melted,  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  salt  pork  cut  into  half  inch  squares,  two  ounces  of  chopped  medium- 
sized  onions,  and  a  pound  of  tenderloin  of  beef  cut  into  inch  squares,  a  garnished  bouquet  of 
thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  reduce  the  liquid 
entirely,  then  moisten  again  with  another  pint  of  stock,  and  let  reduce  to  a  glaze.  Now  add  half  a 
pound  of  rice,  cover  to  double  its  heighth  with  stock,  then  season  with  some  saffron,  salt  and 
cayenne  pepper.  Simmer  until  it  is  all  done,  and  the  liquid  entirely  evaporated;  dress  it  on  to 
Ihe  middle  of  a  dish,  and  surround  the  pilaff  with  peeled  tomatoes,  split  in  halves  and  slightly 
squeezed  free  from  their  juice,  and  cooked  in  half  butter  and  half  oil,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Sprinkle  parsley  over  all  and  serve. 

(1423).  TENDERLOIN-STEAK  OF  TEN  OUNCES,  PLAIN,  BROILED  OR  SAUTED  (Filet  de  Boeuf 

de  dix  Onces  GrillS  ou  Saut6  Nature). 
Select  the  tenderloin  of  a  good  red  color  and  nicely  streaked  with  fat.     Pare  it  carefully, 

remove  all  the  fibrous  parts,  cut  it  into  slices,  each  weighing  eleven  ounces,  and  beat  lightly  to  flat- 
ten them  to  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  thickness.  Trim  well  in  order  to  give 
them  a  round-shaped  appearance.  Each  tenderloin  after  being  trimmed 
should  weigh  ten  ounces;  season  them  with  salt,  baste  over  with  oil  or 
melted  butter,  lay  them  on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  them  on  a  moderate  well- 
sustained  fire,  turning  them  over  only  once  during  the  time  they  take  to 
cook,  which  is  ten  minutes  to  have  them  rare,  twelve  minutes  to  have  them 
properly  done,  and  fourteen  minutes  well  cooked.  Lay  them  on  a  hot  dish. 
Prepare  the  tenderloin  steaks  as  for  the  above,  season  and  saute  in 
clarified  butter  over  a  bright  fire.  Turn  them  over  after  they  have  been  on 
the  fire  for  about  six  minutes  and  again  after  another  six  minutes,  making 

twelve  in  all.     When  the  gravy  from  the  meat  can  be  seen  on  the  surface,  then  remove  the  steak 

and  lay  it  on  a  dish;  drain  out  the  fat  completely  from  the  pan,  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little  clear 

gravy  (No.  404),  reduce,  strain  and  pour  it  over  the  meat;  serve. 

(1424).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  ANCHOVY  BUTTER  (Filet  de  Boeuf  au  Beurre  d'Anchois). 

Trim  and  cook  the  tenderloin  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1423);  lay  it  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  cover 
the  surface  with  some  anchovy  butter  (No.  569). 


496  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1425).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  MADEIRA,  HALF-GLAZE  (Pilet  de  Bceuf  au  Madere,  Demi- 
glace). 

Have  the  tenderloin  prepared  exactly  as  for  plain  (No.  1423),  seasoning  it  with  salt.  Put  some 
clarified  butter  in  a  saute  pan  (Fig.  130),  when  very  hot  add  the  tenderloin  to  cook  it  slowly,  turning  it 
over  six  minutes  after  it  has  been  on  the  fire,  then  finish  cooking,  which  will  take  about  twelve 
minutes  in  all;  drain  off  the  fat  and  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  half  a  gill  of  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413),  and  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  good  Madeira  wine.  Reduce  quickly,  turning  the  meat  over, 
then  dress  the  tenderloin.  Pour  into  the  stewpan  a  quarter  of  a  gill  more  Madeira  wine,  reduce 
the  whole  to  half,  strain  the  gravy,  put  it  back  into  a  saucepan,  stir  in  some  very  good  butter, 
then  pour  the  whole  over  the  steak. 

(1426).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  MARROW  (Pilet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Moelle). 
Cook  the  steak,  after  preparing  it  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.   1423).     Have  four  ounces  of 
marrow  for  each  steak,  cut  in  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  for 
one  minute,  drain,  and  then  arrange  them  symmetrically  over  the  tenderloin,  covering  the  whole 
with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  on  top. 

(1427).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Champignons). 
Prepare  and  cook  as  explained  in  tenderloin  with  olives  (No.  1428),  dress  it  on  a  dish  and 
garnish  the  top  with  cooked,  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  418),  heated  in  a  reduced  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413),  with  some  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  pour  this  over  the  meat  and  serve. 

(1428).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  OLIVES  (Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Olives). 
Have  the  tenderloin  prepared  and  cooked  as  described  in  plain  (No.  1423).  Detach  the  glaze 
from  the  pan  with  a  little  Madeira  wine  and  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  reduced.  When  reduced 
sufficiently  to  cover  a  spoon,  strain  and  replace  it  on  the  fire  in  a  low  saucepan;  add  ten  stoned 
olives  for  each  tenderloin  having  previously  thrown  them  into  boiling  water  to  blanch  them  and 
let  them  boil  up  once.  Dress  the  meat,  cover  with  the  sauce  and  arrange  the  olives  around. 

(1429).  TENDERLOIN  STEAK  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Truffes). 
Prepare  the  tenderloin  and  cook  it  the  same  as  for  tenderloin  with  olives  (No.  1428).  For 
each  ten  ounce  tenderloin,  have  about  one  ounces  of  truffles,  peeled  and  cooked  in  Madeira  wine. 
Mince  them,  that  is  cut  them  into  very  thin  slices,  and  arrange  them  either  over  the  tenderloin  or 
else  around  it,  crown-shaped  one  overlapping  the  other.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  and  Madeira. 

(1430).    TOURNEDOS    OF    TENDERLOIN  OF    BEEF,    FLAIN  (Tournedos  de   Filet    de  Bceuf 

Nature). 

Cut  some  slices  about  two  and  a  half  ounces,  from  a  well  trimmed  tenderloin  of  beef;  beat  them 
lightly  to  flatten  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  pare  them  round  shaped  two  and  a  quarter  inches 
in  diameter.     Each  piece  of  tournedos  after  being  trimmed  should  weigh  two  ounces; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  warm  some  fat  in  a  sauteing  pan,  lay  in  the  tournedos 
one  beside  the  other  and  cook  them  on  a  brisk  fire,  being  careful  to  turn  them  over 
only  once  during  that  time.     Drain,  wipe  and  glaze  them  with  some  meat  glaze  (No. 
402),  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose;  dress,  and  pour  a   little  clear  gravy  (No.   404), 
FIG.  819.        -nto  t^e  kottom  Oj.  tne  ^h      jt  wjji  take  about  four  minutes  to  have  them  rare, 

five  to  have  them  properly  done,  and  six  to  have  them  well  done. 

(1431).  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BRETIGrNY  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

a  la  Bre"tigny). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  tournedos  as  for  plain  (No.  1430);  glaze  them,  then  lay  them  on  a  dish, 
one  slice  overlapping  the  other.  Split  through  the  back  as  many  reedbirds  as  there  are  tournedos, 
preparing  them  as  follows:  Bone  them,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  saute  them  on  a  quick  fire 
while  the  tournedos  are  being  prepared.  Garnish  one  side  of  the  meat  with  sweetbread  minced 
and  fried  in  butter  with  fine  herbs  and  lemon  ju'ce,  and  the  other  side  with  sliced  mushrooms, 
fried  in  butter  with  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  lemon  juice,  dress  the  reedbirds  on  both  ends.  Pour 
a  little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  with  truffle  essence  (No.  395)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and 
serve  some  ot  the  same  sauce  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 


BEEF.  497 

(1432).  TOURNEDOS  OP  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEP  A  LA  FLATONAN,  WITH  SMALL  STUFFED 

TOMATOES  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Flavignan,  avec  Petites  Tomates  Farcies). 
Prepare  the  tournedos  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1430),  glaze  and  dress  them  in 
a  straight  row  one  overlapping  the  other;  garnish  the  sides  of  the  dish  with  as  many  small  tomatoes 
as  there  are  pieces  of  meat,  and  serve  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  separate. 

Small  Stuffed  Tomatoes. — Cut  off  the  tops  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  scoop  out  the  interiors; 
squeeze  them  without  misshaping  them,  and  remove  the  insides  with  a  small  vegetable  scoop.  Kub 
lightly  the  bottom  of  a  bowl  with  some  garlic,  and  for  half  a  pound  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
placed  in  the  bowl,  mix  in  the  same  quantity  of  foies-gras  taken  from  a  terrine;  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of  chopped  truffles,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  a 
little  Madeira  wines  and  grated  parmesan  cheese.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with  this  preparation  and  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

(1433).  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  HUTCHING  (Tournedos  do  Filet  de  Bcsuf 

a  la  Hutching), 

To  be  prepared  and  cooked  exactly  the  same  as  plain  tournedos  (No.  1430);  after  being  glazed, 
set  them  on  a  dish  over  croquettes  of  horseradish  and  cream  made  the  same  size  as  the  tournedos. 

For  Croquettes  of  Horseradish. — Reduce  some  good  cream  to  half  its  quantity,  add  two  ounces 
of  butter,  season  it  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  stir  in  it  sufficient  grated  fresh  horseradish  to  form* 
consistent  paste;  let  cool,  then  shape  them  into  inch  and  a  half  balls,  flatten  them  down  to  a  third 
of  their  diameter,  dip  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Place  on  each 
tournedo  a  slice  of  apple  fried  in  butter,  and  in  the  center  of  this  lay  a  round  slice  of  cooked  ham 
an  inch  in  diameter  by  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  also  fried  in  butter;  drain  off  the  butter;  and 
detach  the  glaze  from  the  pan  with  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  half -glaze  (No.  400)  and  some  Madeira; 
strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  pour  it  on  to  the  dish  around  the  tournedos. 

(1434).  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  LAGUIPIERRE  (Tournedos  de  Filet  d<» 

Bceuf  a  la  Laguipierre). 

Cut  off  slices  from  a  nice  small  tenderloin  of  beef,  pare  well,  and  beat  lightly  to  flatten 
to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  them  round-shaped  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diam- 
eter; they  should  weigh  after  being  pared  two  ounces  each;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
then  lay  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  some  Madeira  wine,  letting  them  macerate  for  one  hour 
turning  them  over  several  times;  drain  and  wipe  them  nicely.  Put  some  clarified  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan, when  very  hot  set  in  the  tournedos  one  beside  the  other,  place  the  pan  on  a  hot  fire,  and  cook 
them  the  same  as  the  plain  tournedos  (No.  1430).  Drain  off  the  butter,  put  in  a  little  clear  gravy 
(No.  404)  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  reduce  the  liquid  quickly,  turning  the  tournedos  overto  glaze 
them.  Prepare  beforehand  slices  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  two  inches  in  diameter  by  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  also  some  round  slices  of  foies-gras,  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter 
by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch,  and  rounds  of  truffles  one  inch  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness. Dress  the  tournedos  on  slices  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter;  these  slices  to  be  fried  in  butter;  lay  on  top  of  each  one  a  tournedos,  and  on 
these  the  foies-gras,  and  finally  the  round  slice  of  truffle.  Pour  over  a  Laguipierre  sauce  (No. 
486). 

(1435).  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MARIETTA  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de 

Bceuf  a  la  Marietta). 

Have  the  tournedos  prepared  the  same  as  for  a  la  Laguipierre  (No.  1434);  set  them  on  a  dish 
over  round  slices  of  bread  cut  the  same  diameter  as  the  tournedos,  fried  in  butter,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  Cover  them  with  port  wine  sauce  (No.  492)  into  which  mix  some  finely 
chopped  up  shallots  previously  blanched,  some  finely  cut  and  chopped  oronge  mushrooms,  nutmeg, 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  ^U),  lemon  juice,  and  pistachio  nuts  cut  in  fillets.  Garnish  around  with  tim- 
bales  made  of  short  paste  (No.  135),  filling  them  either  with  noodles  or  parboiled  macaroni, 
drained  and  reduced  with  broth  (No.  194a),  seasoning  with  pepper,  nutmeg  and  parmesan  cheese, 
also  some  butter  and  veloute"  (No.  415).  Between  each  timbale  lay  slices  of  tongue  cut  the 
shape  of  cock's-combs,  and  warmed  in  butter,  then  glazed. 

(1436).  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  ROQUEPLAN  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de 

Bceuf  a  la  Roqueplan). 

Prepare  some  tournedos  the  same  as  for  a  la  Laguipierre  (No.  1434; ;  lard  one  of  them 
•with  salt  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  one  with  cooked  tongue,  one  with  cooked  ham,  and  one  with 


498  THE    EPICUREAN. 

truffles  cut  the  same  size  as  the  pork.  "When  the  tournedos  are  done,  glaze,  then  dress  them  on 
a  dish,  intercalating  each  one  with  a  fried  egg-yolk;  place  on  top  game  quenelles  (No.  91) 
shaped  in  a  hollow  tartlet  mold,  and  decorated  with  truffles.  Pour  into  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  half  glaze  (No.  413)  with  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and 
garnish  around  with  fried  potatoes  Julienne  (No.  2792),  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

11437),  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEP  A  LA  TALABASSE  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de 

Bceuf  &  la  Talabasse). 

Cook  very  rare  some  plain  tournedos  (No.  1430);  lay  them  over  sippets  of  bread  fried  in  butter, 
and  place  around  them  slices  of  marrow,  and  on  top  of  each  tournedos  a  little  horseradish  butter 
(No.  578),  mingled  with  chopped  up  and  parboiled  shallot,  also  some  chopped  parsley.  Set  the 
dish  for  one  moment  in  the  oven,  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1438).  TOURNEDOS  OP  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  VICTORIN  (Tournsdos  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

a  la  Victorin). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  tournedos  exactly  the  same  as  for  Laguipierre  (No.  1434).  lay  them  on 
top  of  pieces  of  thin  bread,  cut  the  same  diameter  as  the  tournedos,  and  cover  them  with  a  thick 
celery  puree  (No.  711);  place  on  top  a  ring  cut  from  a  carrot,  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  with  an  empty  space  in  the  center  of  an  inch  and  a  quarter,  blanched,  braised, 
and  reduced  to  a  glaze;  set  on  a  top  large  mushroom  stuffed  with  fine  cooked  herbs  (No.  385) 
thickened  with  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  baked  in  the  oven  till  a  fine  color.  Pour  around  an 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  sherry  wine,  and  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it 
a  piece  of  good  butter,  working  it  in  well  with  a  whisk  (Fig.  154). 

(1439).  TOURNEDOS  OP  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  RAISINS  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de  Bceuf 

aux  Raisins). 

These  are  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  tournedos  Laguipierre  (No.  1434);  reduce 
a  gill  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  with  one  gill  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  half  a  gill  of 
Madeira  wine;  when  all  is  well  reduced,  strain  it  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  put  it  back 
into  the  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  eight  fresh  Malaga  raisins  for  each  piece  of  meat,  or  in  case  there 
are  none  fresh,  then  use  dried  ones,  seeded  and  softened  in  a  little  Malaga  wine.  Dress  the  tour- 
nedos on  slices  of  bread  their  same  diameter,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  fried  in  butter,  set 
the  raisins  around,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

(1440),  TOURNEDOS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  STRING  BEANS  (Tournedos  de  Filet  de 

Bceuf  aux  Haricots  Verts), 

These  are  to  be  prepared  the  same  as  for  tournedos  a  la  Laguipierre  (No.  1434);  cook  them  very 
rare,  glaze  them  with  meat  glaze,  and  dress.  Surround  with  a  garnishing  of  string  beans  a  la 
Pettit  (No.  2827),  around  the  bean  garnishing,  place  sippets  of  bread,  one  and  a  quarter  inches  by 
three-sixteenths  inches,  fried  in  butter;  dress  them  one  overlapping  the  other. 

(1441).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEP  A  L'AMBASSADE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  1'Ambassade- 

Entier). 

Pare  a  fine  tenderloin  using  the  same  care  as  if  intended  for  larding  (No.  112);  cover  it 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  tie  it  well  so  as  to  keep  the  latter  in  position;  fill  the  bottom  of  a  nar- 
row baking  pan  with  slices  of  pork,  laying  minced  carrots  and  onions  on  top,  pour  over  some  good, 
melted  fat,  set  the  tenderloin  over,  and  put  it  in  the  oven  for  forty  to  forty-five  minutes,  basting 
it  several  times  while  it  is  cooking,  and  turning  the  baking  pan  frequently  so  that  the  meat  cooks 
evenly  and  colors  well,  letting  it  be  done  rare.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  salt  it;  when  ready 
untie  and  glaze  it,  dress  the  tenderloin  on  a  small  rice  foundation,  two  inches  high  and  of  the  same 
shape  and  size  as  the  tenderloin.  On  each  side  arrange  a  garnishing  of  small  croustades  filled 
with  baked  be'chamel  cauliflower  (No.  2715),  at  each  end  place  potato  balls,  fried  in  butter,  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  stick  five  silver  skewers  into  the  top  of  the  tenderloin,  each  one 
made  of  a  fine  truffle  and  sweetbreads;  the  truffles  to  be  glazed  in  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Serve 
a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  in  a  separate  sauce-bowl. 

Should  the  tenderloin  be  needed  for  a  plain  dinner,  and  it  were  necessary  to  carve  it  in  the 
kitchen  or  dining-room,  or  even  in  an  adjoining  pantry,  then  proceed  as  follows:  Cut  the  two  ends 
of  the  tenderloin,  remove  the  chain  (the  chain  is  the  irregular  portion  partly  detached  from  the 
tenderloin),  one-half  inch  from  the  bottom;  cut  the  end  triangle-shaped,  then  continue  cutting  very 
fine  bias  slices.  Place  each  slice  on  a  hot  plate  with  a  little  good  gravy  (No.  404)  and  some  of  the 
;  serve  the  Madeira  sauce  apart. 


BEEF.  499 

(1442).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BAREDA-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bareda-Entier). 
Trim  nicely  a  fine  tenderloin  weighing  about  six  pounds.  After  it  is  pared  the  same  as 
Bernardi  (No.  1444),  lard  the  top  of  it  with  medium  sized  lardings  (No.  2,  Fig.  52)  and  raw  ham; 
lay  in  an  earthen  dish,  season  with  salt  and  mignonette,  and  sprinkle  it  over  with  sweet 
oil.  Cut  in  slices  two  medium  onions  and  one  lemon,  add  them  to  the  tenderloin  with  a  few  sprigs 
of  parsley,  two  bay  leaves,  some  thyme,  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  let  remain  in  this  for  two  hours, 
turning  the  meat  constantly  while  in  the  marinade.  Two  hours  before  ready  to  serve  place  the 
tenderloin  in  an  oval  saucepan  with  the  ingredients  around  it,  moisten  it  with  half  a  pint  of  Madeira 
wine,  and  one  pint  of  beef  stock  (No.  194a) ;  let  it  reduce  slowly  and  when  the  liquor  comes  to  a  glaze, 
moisten  again  with  more  stock  to  half  the  heigh th  of  the  meat;  boil  up,  then  cover  the  saucepan 
and  set  it  in  the  oven.  When  the  tenderloin  is  nearly  done  strain  the  gravy,  free  it  from  its  fat, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze;  trim  the  tenderloin,  lay  it  on  a  pan,  and  glaze  it,  then  dress  the 
meat  on  a  bed  of  risot  a  la  Piemontaise  (No.  2981),  set  around  the  fillets  a  fine  garnishing  made 
of  sixteen  artichoke  bottoms  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  eight  of  which  to  be  filled 
with  tongue  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  arid  mixed  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  the 
other  eight  to  be  garnished  with  chicken  breast  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares  and  mixed 
with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Place  over  the  garnishing  sixteen  small  grooved  mushroom  heads 
(No-  118),  and  decorate  the  tenderloin  with  five  truffle  and  Villeroi  quenelle  skewers.  Serve 
in  a  separate  sauce-boat  a  veloute  (No.  415)  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  half  of  each  reduced 
with  the  stock  from  the  meat,  and  a  little  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  added  to  it. 

(1443).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BAYONNAISE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bayonnaise- 

Entier). 

Select  a  fine  tenderloin  of  beef,  pare  it  as  for  a  la  Bernardi  (No.  1444);  lard  it  with 
small  pieces  of  larding  pork  (No.  2,  Fig.  52).  Lay  the  tenderloin  on  an  oval  dish,  pour 
over  a  gill  of  olive  oil,  one  sliced  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  bay  leaf  broken  into 
several  pieces,  and  twelve  pounded  whole  peppers.  After  three  hours,  drain  the  meat  from 
the  marinade,  then  roast  it  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  and  glaze  it  a  fine  color. 
Fry  in  butter  some  thin  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  of  ham,  cutting  them  halt  heart- 
shaped;  arrange  them  on  each  end  of  the  tenderloin,  garnishing  the  sides  with  macaroni 
prepared  as  follows:  Blanch  some  macaroni,  drain,  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  some  stock 
(No.  194a);  let  boil,  and  reduce  for  twenty  minutes,  so  that  the  stock  is  entirely  evaporated,  then 
season  with  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  grated  parmesan.  Toss  the  macaroni  and  cheese  in  the 
saucepan  so  that  it  will  be  thoroughly  stirred  without  using  a  spoon.  Serve  separately  a  half -glaze 
(No.  413)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  not  too  thick. 

(1444).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BERNARDI— WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bernardi— Entier) 
Prepare  and  lard  a  fine  tenderloin  as  already  explained  (No.  112).  Garnish  the  bottom 
of  a  pan  with  slices  of  pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions,  and  place  the  tenderloin  on  top; 
cover  it  with  some  good  fat  and  put  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  to  roast;  the  time  for  accomplishing 
this  is  thirty  minutes  for  a  four  pound  tenderloin,  then  let  it  rest  on  a  heater  or  in  any  warm 
place  for  ten  minutes  or  longer;  five  pounds  will  take  thirty-five  minutes,  and  twelve  minutes  to 
rest,  while  six  pounds  will  take  forty-five  minutes  and  fifteen  minutes  to  rest.  As  soon  as  the 
tenderloin  is  nearly  done,  salt  it  properly,  before  serving  pare  both  ends,  remove  the  chain,  give  it 
a  good  appearance,  glaze,  then  dress  it  on  a  grooved  rice  foundation,  previously  browned  in  the 
oven.  Dress  around  the  tenderloin  small  croustades  made  of  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  laid 
into  deep  tartlet  molds:  fill  these  croustades  with  a  little  macedoine  thickened  with  butter  and  a 
little  bechamel  (No.  409,1,  over  this  macedoine  set  a  round  game  forcemeat  quenelle,  (No.  91) 
forced  through  a  cornet  on  a  buttered  tin  sheet  quenelle,  being  the  same  in  diameter  as  the  crous- 
tades; put  in  the  center  or  each  a  ring  of  thinly  sliced  truffle,  then  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven 
serve  separately  a  sauce  Perigueux  (No.  517),  adding  to  it  some  small  one-eighth  inch  squares  of 
cooked  ham. 

(1445).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BIENVENUE— WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bienvenue 

—Entier). 

Tenderloins  intended  for  braising  purposes  should  be  chosen  fat,  for  the  lengthy  cooking 
they  have  to  undergo  diminishes  their  size  considerably.  Kaise  the  tenderloin,  remove  all  the 
fat,  and  separate  the  skin  from  the  meat;  have  ready  large  lardings  of  pork  (No.  1,  Fig.  52), 


500  THE    EPICUREAN 

season  them  with  thyme,  chopped  and  finely  pounded  bay  leaf,  salt,  pepper  and  allspice.  Lard  the 
inside  of  the  tenderloin  with  these,  cover  with  thin  bardes  of  fat  pork  and  tie  it  well.  Garnish  the 
bottom  of  a  braziere  with  slices  of  pork,  moistening  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  put  in  the  meat, 
svarm  it,  then  push  the  pan  into  the  oven  to  simmer  for  three  or  four  hours  according  to  the  size  of 
the  tenderloin.  Strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat,  reduce  it,  then  drain  the 
tenderloin,  glaze  and  set  it  on  a  dish  or  on  a  rice  foundation.  Skim  and  reduce  the  stock  from  the 
meat  with  an  espagnole  and  marsala  sauce  (No.  492),  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  garnish  around  the 
tenderloin  with  pieces  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  cut  heart-shaped,  also  some  minced  truffles, 
and  quenelles  a  la  Villeroi,  add  some  fine  butter  to  the  sauce,  and  serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1446).   TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  OAUOHOISE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Cauchoise- 

Entier). 

Have  prepared  and  cooked  a  tenderloin  as  explained  in  a  la  Bernard!  (No.  1444);  when  done 
and  glazed,  dress  it  and  garnish  it  around  with  cabbage.  Lay  on  top  of  the  cabbage,  slices  of 
sausage,  decorate  the  ends  with  turnips  cut  cork-shaped,  blanched  and  cooked  in  beef  stock  (No. 
194a)  with  butter  and  sugar,  and  then  reduced  to  a  glaze;  serve  a  separate  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414),  reduced  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

How  to  Prepare  the  Cabbage.— Mince  two  cabbages,  blanch  them  for  ten  minutes,  drain  and 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  covering  them  with  some  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  with  one  third  of  the 
volume  of  fat  taken  from  the  stock  pot;  add  one  pound  of  sausage,  a  carrot  cut  lengthwise  in 
four,  and  two  medium  onions  with  two  cloves  in  them,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
bay  leaf.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cook  slowly,  remove  all  the  fat  and  let  reduce  to  a  half-glaze. 

(1447).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  OHANZY- WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Ohanzy-Entier). 

Pare  and  lard  a  fine  tenderloin  of  beef;  lay  it  in  a  deep  baking  pan  lined  with  sliced  onions, 

carrots  and  fat  bacon  and  baste  over  with  butter;  salt  and  cover  with  buttered  paper.  Roast  it  for 


FIG.  320. 

one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven  basting  frequently  and  adding  a  gill  of  hot  broth  from  time  to  time; 
lastly,  drain  off  the  tenderloin,  pare  it  neatly  and  dress  on  a  long  dish,  surround  with  a  hand- 
some garnishing  composed  of  two  pretty  groups  of  turned  and  glazed  carrots,  two  clusters  of  fine 
green  peas  cooked  English  style  (No.  2742),  alternated  with  a  few  very  white  mushroom  heads, 
etc.,  at  the  same  time  serve  a  boatful  of  good  thick  gravy  (No.  405). 

(1448).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  OONDE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Oonde"-Entier). 

Arrange  the  tenderloin  and  cook  it  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443);  glaze  it,  then 
lay  it  on  a  rice  foundation,  garnishing  it  around  with  game  croquettes  (No.  885);  intercalating 
them  with  small  chicken  timbales.  Decorate  the  meat  with  three  or  five  skewers  made  of  truffles 
and  cocks'-combs;  serve  a  tomato  sauce  a  la  Conde"  (No.  550)  separately.  This  dish  is  prepared 
to  figure  at  a  dinner  party,  but  not  being  carved,  it  cannot  be  conveniently  handed  round,  so  after 
being  shown  on  the  table,  it  should  be  removed  and  cut  into  slices,  placing  one  on  each  plate 
with  some  of  the  garnishing  and  sauce,  then  handed  to  the  guests. 

(1449).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF    BREADED  AND  BROWNED  IN  THE  OVEN  A  LA  D'AURELLES 

(Filet  de  Bceuf    Pane"  et  Colors'  au  Four  a  la  d'Aurelles). 

This  tenderloin  should  be  prepared  the  same  as  for  a  1'Ambassade  (No.  1441);  when  done, 
trim,  drain  and  cover  it  with  four  egg-yolks  mixed  with  two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  salt  and 
ground  nutmeg.  Besprinkle  over  with  bread-crumbs  in  which  mingle  a  little  grated  parmesan 


BEKF.  501 

cheese;  press  the  bread-crumbs  down  slightly  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  pour  over  some  melted 
fresh  butter.  Set  the  meat  in  a  hot  oven  so  as  to  brown  quickly;  serve  it  up  and  garnish  the  dish 
with  veal  kernels  (or  small  sweetbreads).  Pour  a  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517),  over  the  garnishing 
and  finish  with  small  quenelles.  A  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  is  to  be  served  separately. 

(1450).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  D'ORLEANS-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  d'0r!6ans- 

Entier). 

Have  a  fine  tenderloin  larded  with  strips  of  cooked  red  beef  tongue  and  truffles,  cook  it  the 
same  as  for  a  la  Bien venue  (No.  1445);  glaze,  then  dress  it,  garnishing  one  side  with  small  chicken 
quenelles  molded  with  a  teaspoon  (No.  155),  and  the  other  side  with  some  small  peeled  truffles  pre- 
viously warmed  in  Madeira  sauce  and  meat-glaze.  Place  at  both  ends  rounds  or  slices  of  cooked 
ham,  cut  one  and  a  half  inches  wide  by  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  aud  warmed  in  a  little  butter  and 
meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Decorate  with  skewers  made  of  game  quenelles  a  la  Villeroi  and  cocks'- 
combs.  Served  separately  an  Orleans  sauce  (No.  512). 

(1451).  TENDEKLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  GODARD-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Godard-Entier), 

After  cooking  a  tenderloin  of  beef  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bienvenue  (No.  1445)  pare  and  glaze  it. 
Make  a  foundation  of  rice,  two  inches  highland  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  long  and  five  inches 
wide,  egg  the  surface,  flute  it  symmetrically  and  color  it  in  a  hot  oven.  Lay  this  on  the  middle 
of  a  hot  dish,  set  the  tenderloin  on  top  and  garnish  around  with  twelve  truffles  cooked  in 
Madeira  wine,  twelve  fine  mushroom  heads  grooved  and  turned  round  (No.  118),  and  twelve 
cock's-combs.  Moisten  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Set  around  twelve  oval  quenelles 
decorated  with  red  beef  tongue,  decorate  the  top  with  five  skewers  made  of  truffles  and  double 
cocks'-combs,  and  serve  with  a  half-glaze  (No.  413)  separately. 

(1452).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MELINET— WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Melinet— Entier). 
Have  a  fine  tenderloin  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443),  pare,  glaze 
and  dish  it,  garnishing  it  with  the  following  preparation  made  in  advance.  Cut  some  round  pieces 
of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  two  inches  in  diameter  by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness; 
prepare  a  macedoine,  thickened  with  bechamel  (No.  409),  well  buttered  and  set  away  to 
cool;  place  on  each  slice  of  tongue  a  lump  of  this  macedoine  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  flatten 
it  down  slightly,  and  cover  it  entirely  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Baste  over  with 
melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  grated  parmesan  cheese  on  top,  place  on  a  well-buttered  baking  pan,  set 
them  in  a  slow  oven  and  as  soon  as  they  are  a  fine  color  remove  and  arrange  them  on  each  side  of 
the  tenderloin-,  place  a  glazed  mushroom  on  each  piece  of  garnishing  and  serve  separately  a  marin- 
ade sauce  (No.  496),  with  chopped  up  truffles  added. 

(1453).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MILANESE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Milanaise— Entier). 
The  tenderlo'in  is  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  a  1'Ambassade  (No.  1441;.  When 
done  remove  it  from  the  fire,  wipe  away  all  the  fat  and  moisture  adhering  to  it,  brush  it  over  with 
beaten  eggs  and  cover  with  fresh  bread  crumbs  and  parmesan  cheese;  besprinkle  with  butter  and 
brown  it  nicely  in  the  oven.  Arrange  it  on  a  foundation  made  of  short  paste  (No.  135),  garnishing 
around  with  small  spaghetti  macaroni  blanched,  then  drained  and  cooked  in  some  consomme 
(No.  189).  Season  with  salt  and  mix  in  some  parmesan  cheese  and  a  little  brown  sauce;  add  the 
macaroni,  tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  all  cut  Julienne  shape.  Serve  separately  an  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  some  good  gravy. 

(1454).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MONTEBELLO— WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Montebello— 

Entier). 

To  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  explained  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443);  after  it 
is  done,  pared  and  glazed,  dress  it  on  a  symmetrically  trimmed  rice  foundation,  and  garnish  it 
with  a  preparation  made  beforehand,  composed  of  sixteen  artichoke  bottoms  two  inches  in  diameter. 
Fill  with  a  salpicon  made  of  sweetbreads,  truffles,  and  mushrooms,  to  which  has  been  added  some  well 
reduced  allmande  sauce  (No.  407);  have  it  slightly  bomb-shaped  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  cream 


502  THE    EPICUREAN 

forcemeat  (No  74);  sprinkle  over  very  finely  chopped  tongue,  pour  over  some  butter,  and  poach 
the  whole  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes  or  more;  have  some  mushroom  heads  fried  in  butter, 
and  seasoned,  finished  with  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  fine  herbs.  Dress  the  artichoke  bottoms 
on  each  side  of  the  tenderloin,  the  cooked  mushrooms  at  the  end;  pour  some  well-seasoned  thick- 
ened gravy  (No.  405)  over,  and  serve  a  Montebello  sauce  (No.  502)  separate. 

(1455),  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEP,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Napolitaine 

— Entier). 

Have  a  fine  tenderloin  cooked  and  prepared  as  described  in  a  la  Bienvenue  (No.  1445);  only 
lard  it  with  pork  and  ham,  cut  the  size  shown  in  No.  2,  Fig.  52;  when  done,  pare,  glaze,  and  lay 
it  on  a  trimmed  rice  foundation,  garnishing  around  with  macaroni  croquettes.  Strain  the  braise, 
skim  off  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  with  some  broken  game  bones  and  half  a  pint  of  Malaga  wine; 
strain  again,  keep  back  one-third  without  adding  anything  to  it  to  put  with  the  meat,  and  divide; 
to  one  add  some  citron  cut  in  fine  Julienne  shape,  and  to  the  other  some  sultana  raisins;  serve 
the  remainder  into  two  equal  parts;  the  citron  sauce  in  one  sauce-boat,  and  the  raisin  sauce  in 
another,  or  the  two  may  be  mingled  together. 

(1456),  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  RICHELIEU,   MODERN-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la 

Richelieu,  Moderns — Entier), 

Arrange  the  tenderloin  and  cook  it  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bernard!  (No.  1444)  a  few  moments 
before  serving,  glaze  it  and  lay  it  on  a  rice  foundation  on  a  dish  sufficiently  large  to  garnish 
one  side  with  stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2842),  and  a  bunch  of  glazed  lettuce  (No.  2753);  the 
other  side  with  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  650),  and  some  braised  celery  (No.  2721),  and  at  each  end 
a  cluster  of  potatoes  trimmed  to  the  size  of  a  small  egg,  and  boiled  in  salted  water  for  twenty 
minutes;  drain  off  the  water,  and  crush  each  potato  separately  in  a  cloth,  then  reshape  them  and 
range  them  on  a  buttered  pan,  pour  some  more  butter  over,  and  brown  nicely  in  the  oven,  then 
add  more  butter,  simply  melted,  neither  cleared  nor  clarified.  This  meat  may  be  ornamented  by 
setting  five  skewers  into  it  garnishing  them  with  finely  cut  up  vegetables.  A  Madeira  sauce  (No. 
492)  in  a  sauce-boat  to  be  served  separately. 

(1457),  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  ROTHSCHILD-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Rothschild- 

Entier). 

Pare  a  tenderloin  and  cook  it  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bienvenue  (No.  1445);  after  it  is  done  drain 
off  the  gravy,  free  it  from  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze.  Fry  in  butter  some  half  heart-shaped 
slices  of  Westphalia  ham,  drain  off  the  butter,  remove  the  ham,  and  add  half  as  much  half-glaze 
(No.  400)  as  espagnole  (No.  414),  then  reduce  it  to  a  proper  consistency,  and  when  ready  to  serve 
work  in  a  small  piece  of  butter;  serve  part  of  this  sauce  separately.  Dress  the  tenderloin  on  a  rice 
foundation  (No.  10),  garnish  with  some  breasts  of  quail  sauted  in  butter,  the  ham,  also  fried 
scallops  of  foies-gras;  cover  this  garnishing  with  the  reserved  sauce  espagnole  and  half-glaze;  lay 
on  top  the  tenderloin,  eight  Villeroi  quenelles  and  between  each  quenelle  a  double  and 
curled  cock's-comb. 

(1458).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  ROYAL-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Royale-Entier). 

Prepare  tenderloin  as  described  a  TAmbassade  in  No.  1441 ;  lard  the  interior  with  pork,  ham 
and  truffles,  each  cut  into  lardings  three-eighths  of  an  inch  square.  When  th^  fillet  is  cooked, 
drain  the  gravy  skim  off  the  fat,  and  set  it  into  another  saucepan  with  some  broken  game  bones; 
simmer  for  one  hour,  then  strain  and  add  to  it  its  equal  quantity  of  espagnole  (No.  414);  reduce  this 
sauce  to  proper  consistency,  being  careful  to  remove  all  the  grease  and  scum  arising  to  the  surface; 
put  aside  a  third  part  of  it,  and  add  to  the  two-thirds  remaining  some  grooved  or  turned  mushrooms 
(No.  118);  forcemeat  quenelles  round-shape  and  truffles  cut  olive-shaped.  Pare  and  glaze  the  ten- 
derloin, and  dress  it  on  a  rice  foundation;  place  the  garnishing  around  in  clusters  and  decorate  the 
tenderloin  with  five  skewers,  made  of  cocks'-combs  and  truffles.  Saute"  a  little  minced  raw  ham  in 
butter,  moisten  with  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  the  third  part  of  the  gravy  kept  back  from  the 
rest;  boil,  skim,  drain  through  a  sieve  and  serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1459).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  SOLOHTJB- WHOLE  (Filet  de  Boeufa  la  Solohub-Entier). 

Prepare  a  tenderloin  of  beef  in  the  following  manner:  After  it  has  been  well  pared  stud  with 

truffles  the  third  part  of  it  (the  center),  and  the  narrow  end  third,  lard  with  pork  lardons  (Fig.  52, 


BEEF.  503 

No.  2),  leaving  the  other  end  unlarded.  Cover  the  studded  part  with  a  band  of  fat  pork,  line  a 
long,  narrow  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  carrots,  onions,  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley; 
place  the  fillet  on  this;  braise  the  meat  with  a  very  little  moisture,  only  adding  stock  when  it  becomes 
too  reduced;  when  almost  done  take  out  the  meat  and  place  it  on  a  baking  sheet;  egg  and  bread-crumb 
the  unlarded  end,  bestrew  with  grated  cheese,  pour  melted  butter  over  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 
Dress  on  a  rice  foundation  into  which  has  been  mixed  some  quarter  inch  squares  of  foies-gras. 
Garnish  the  sides  of  the  tenderloin  with  minced  cepes  a  la  Bordelaise  (No.  1574)  and  the  ends  with 
small  patties  filled  with  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve  and  to  which  has 
been  added  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  thickening  at  the  last  moment  with  cream  and  egg-yolks. 
Serve  a  Russian  sauce  (No.  535)  separately. 

(1460).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  TRAVERS-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  k  la  Travers-Entier). 
To  be  prepared  exactly  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443),  and  when  cooked  glaze  it  after  paring 
it  nicely  and  set  it  on  a  rice  foundation.  Garnish  around  with  artichoke  bottoms  filled 
with  a  sweetbread  croquette  preparation  (No.  893),  dip  them  in  eggs,  bread-crumb  them  and  fry, 
have  also  a  garnishing  of  small  timbales  made  of  timbale  paste  (No.  150),  filled  with  spinach 
and  cream,  and  covered  with  small  puff  paste  tops.  Pour  a  little  good  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the 
bottom  of  the  dish,  and  serve  separately  a  marinade  sauce  (No.  496)  well  buttered  with  chopped 
mushrooms  added. 

(1461).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  BRAISED  WITH  ROOTS-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  Brais6  aux 

Racines— Entier). 

The  tenderloin  for  this  must  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bienvenue  (1445); 
glaze,  then  dress  it  and  garnish  around  with  small  olive-shaped  carrots  first  blanched,  then  cooked 
in  broth  (No.  194a),  butter  and  sugar;  when  done  the  broth  will  be  reduced  to  a  glaze;  also  have  tur- 
nips cut  ball-shaped,  blanched,  then  cooked  in  broth,  butter  and  sugar  and  reduced  the  same  as 
the  carrots;  some  small  glazed  onions,  and  celery  roots  cooked  in  gravy  (No.  404).  Serve  separately 
the  braise  stock  reduced  with  espagnole  (No.  414);  when  ready  to  serve  add  some  Madeira  wine. 

(1462).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF,  HUNTER'S  STYLE-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  au  Chasseur-Entier). 
This  tenderloin  is  to  be  cooked  and  prepared  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443); 
pare  it,  glaze,  and  dress  it  on  a  rice  or  short  paste  (No.  135)  foundation,  garnishing  around  and  on 
each  side  with  game  quenelles  (No.  91),  molded  in  a  tablespoon  (Fig.  80),  and  laying  them  one 
beside  the  other  on  a  buttered  tin  sheet;  pour  into  this  sheet  some  boiling  salted  water,  and  keep 
the  water  continually  boiling  while  poaching  the  quenelles  until  they  are  thoroughly  done. 
Raise  the  tenderloins  and  sirloin  from  four  young  rabbits  or  any  other  kind  of  game,  paring  them 
to  the  same  shape  as  the  rabbit  tenderloin;  remove  all  the  nerves  with  the  tip  of  a  knife,  then  lay 
them  on  a  dish,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  branches  of  parsley,  minced 
carrots  and  onions,  lemon  juice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil;  let  them  marinate  in  this  for 
one  hour,  being  careful  to  turn  them  over  several  times,  then  take  them  from  the  dish  without 
the  vegetables  and  after  dipping  them  into  a  frying  batter  (No.  137);  fry  them  a  fine  color  and 
garnish  with  these.  Have  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  add  to  it  some  game  carcasses  and  Madeira 
wine,  when  the  same  is  ready  strain  either  through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  and  mix  in  with  the  sauce 
some  eighth  of  an  inch  square  pieces  of  cooked  ham.  Pour  a  third  of  this  around  the  tenderloin, 
and  send  the  rest  to  the  table  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1463).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF,  INDIAN  STYLE— WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  I'lndienne— 

Entier). 

Have  a  fine  tenderloin  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443),  then  glaze 
and  dish  it,  garnishing  the  sides  with  rice  timbales,  and  the  ends  with  small  rice  croquettes  the 
size  and  shape  of  Spanish  olives.  Serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat  a  light  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522) 
Avith  curry. 

Indian  Rice.—  How  to  prepare  the  rice  for  the  timbales  and  croquettes:  Pick  one  pound  of 
rice,  wash  well,  blanch  and  drain  it;  set  it  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  the 
decoction  of  a  pinch  of  saffron  infused  in  half  a  gill  of  water,  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Cover  the 
rice  with  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  and  let  finish  cooking  in  a  slow  oven  for  half  an  hour,  then  re- 
move a  quarter  of  it  and  put  it  into  a  bowl,  mixing  in  with  it  sufficient  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407)  to  give  it  consistency,  then  let  get  cool,  and  afterward  form  it  into  croquettes  the 
size  and  shape  of  a  Spanish  olive,  fill  some  timbale  molds  with  the  balance  of  the  rice. 


504  THE 

(1464).  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  PRINTANIERE-WHOLE  (Pilot  de  Boraf  k  la  Printaniere- 

Entier). 

Pare  a  tenderloin,  lard  it  with  fat  salt  pork  cut  in  the  shape  of  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52); 
garnish  the  bottom  of  a  long  narrow  braziere  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  minced  vegetables, 
onions  and  aromatics;  moisten  the  meat  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a);  reduce  this 
liquid  slowly  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  to  three-quarters  of  its  heighth.  Boil  the  liquid 
for  seven  to  eight  minutes  and  cover  the  tenderloin  with  buttered  paper;  close  the  braziere,  put  it 
back  on  a  slower  fire  and  continue  to  cook  with  fire  over  and  under  for  a  couple  of  hours  basting  it 
oftentimes  with  its  stock.  The  meat  ought  now  to  be  perfectly  well  done;  drain  it  off  to  pare;  strain 


FIG.  321. 

and  free  the  stock  from  fat,  pour  into  it  one  glassful  of  Marsala  wine  and  reduce  to  a  half-glaze. 
Place  the  tenderloin  on  a  deep  baking  pan,  pour  the  stock  over  and  glaze  while  basting  frequently; 
drain  off  and  strain  the  stock  once  more,  suppress  all  of  its  fat  and  thicken  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce  (No.  414)  or  tomato  sauce  (No.  549) ;  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie.  Fasten  a  wooden  foundation 
covered  with  cooked  paste  on  the  bottom  of  a  long  dish,  glaze  with  a  brush.  Carve  the  tenderloin 
into  slices,  reshape  as  before  and  dress  it  on  this  foundation;  surround  with  a  fine  variegated 
garnishing  divided  in  groups  composed  of  braised  lettuce,  small  timbales  of  vegetables,  small  glazed 
carrots,  flowerets  of  cauliflower  and  lozenge-shaped  string  beans.  Glaze  the  meat  and  cover  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  small  part  of  the  sauce  having  the  rest  served  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1465).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  TRUFFLES-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  aux  Truffes-Entier). 
To  be  prepared  as  for  1'Ambassade  (No.  1441);  stud  the  tenderloin  with  raw  truffles  cut  to  repre- 
sent nails,  drive  them  in  the  surface  of  the  meat  one  inch  apart  from  each  other,  using  a  wooden 
peg  for  the  purpose  a  little  smaller  than  the  nail.  Cover  the  tenderloin  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  and 
tie  them  on;  finish  cooking  exactly  the  same  as  tenderloin  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443),  and  when 
the  meat  is  done,  drain,  trim  and  dress  it  on  a  long  dish,  garnish  on  each  side  with  small  peeled 
truffles,  covering  with  clear  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Serve  separately  a  Madeira  sauce  with  essence 
of  truffles  (No.  395). 

(1466\  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGETABLES-WHOLE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  aux  Legumes- 

Entier). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  tenderloin  exactly  as  for  a  la  Bien venue  (No.  1445);  after  having  it  pared 
and  glazed,  set  it  on  a  small  rice  foundation,  garnishing  it  around  with  the  following  vegetables 
arranged  in  separate  groups  in  order  to  vary  their  different  colors.  This  dish  can  be  decorated 
with  pear-shaped  carrots,  small  clusters  of  cauliflower,  turnips  cut  into  balls,  artichoke  bottoms 
garnished  with  Brussels  sprouts,  small  glazed  onions  or  any  other  vegetable  in  season,  being  careful 
to  suppress  any  kind  that  will  be  served  at  the  same  dinner,  and  which  has  intentionally  been 
avoided  in  this,  such  as  asparagus  tops,  for  there  is  seldom  a  dinner  when  this  vegetable  is  not 
served  in  some  way  or  the  other,  either  as  cream  soup,  or  plain  boiled.  Also  green  peas,  string 
beans  and  flageolets,  these  all  being  generally  used  as  vegetables  served  with  the  entrees.  Mush- 
rooms are  also  employed  largely  for  garnishing,  and  boiled  potatoes  are  invariably  served  with 
fish.  Send  a  sauce-boat  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  to  the  table,  the  same  time  as  the  tender- 
loin. 

(1467).  BEEF  TONGUE  A  LA  ROMAINE  (Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Romaine). 
Remove  from  a  beef  tongue,  the  fat  and  cartilaginous  part  lying  near  the  end.  Soak  it  for 
one  hour  and  a  half  in  cold  water,  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  sufficiently  large  to  contain  a  gallon 
of  water,  adding  salt,  pepper  and  one  onion  with  two  cloves;  let  cook  for  three  hours.  Remove 
the  skin  covering  the  tongue,  and  place  the  latter  on  a  dish,  garnishing  around  it  with  small  ravioles 
(No.  2976),  mingled  with  gravy  (No.  404),  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  and  parmesan  cheese;  serve 
separately  a  Roman  sauce  (No.  534). 


BEEF.  505 

(1468;.  BEEF  TONGUE  A  LA  SOLIGNY  (Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Soligny). 
Prepare  and  cook  a  beef  tongue  the  same  as  beef  tongue  Roman  (No.  1467);  cut  it  into  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick  slices;  and  from  these  cut  circles  of  one  and  three-quarter  inches  in  diameter,  also 
as  many  slices  of  truffles  as  there  are  circles  of  tongue;  keep  them  warm  in  a  little  meat  glaze 
(No.  402)  and  Madeira  wine.  Mince  a  two-ounce  onion,  fry  it  in  oil  with  four  ounces  of  artichoke 
bottoms  cut  into  eight  pieces,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  garlic,  adding  the  truffles 
and  tongue,  some  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley,  and  serve  all  on  a  dish  surrounded  by  sippets 
of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(1469).  TONGUE,  ITALIAN,  BAKED  (Langue  a  I'ltalienne  au  Gratin). 

Cold  braised  tongue  may  be  used  for  this,  or  else  unsmoked  boiled  red  beef  tongue.  Cut  into 
thin  and  pared  slices,  put  inside  a  drill  pocket  furnished  with  a  grooved  socket,  some  potato  cro- 
quette preparation  (No.  2782),  not  too  firm;  force  a  border  of  this  on  the  extreme  edge  of  the 
inside  of  a  dish,  garnishing  the  interior  of  the  border  with  sliced  tongue.  Fry  in  butter  one 
shallot,  some  chives,  and  a  few  mushrooms  all  finely  chopped,  thicken  with  a  thin  be'chamel  sauce 
(No.  409),  stirring  in  some  grated  parmesan  cheese,  cover  the  tongue  with  this,  sprinkle  grated 
bread  raspings  and  parmesan  cheese  on  top,  pour  over  some  butter,  and  put  it  in  the  oven  to 
acquire  a  good  color. 

(1470).  BEEF  TONGUE,  MAOEDOINE  (Langue  de  Bceuf  Mac6doine), 

Pare  and  remove  from  a  beef  tongue  the  fat  and  cartilaginous  part,  lying  near  the  thick  end; 
blanch  it  for  fifteen  minutes  and  lard  it  with  small  lardings  (No.  3,  Fig.  52);  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley.  Line  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  place  the  tongue  on 
top,  and  moisten  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and  white  wine,  then  let  cook  for  two  and  a 
half  to  three  hours  according  to  its  size.  Remove  the  skin,  strain  the  stock  through  a  sieve,  then 
skim  off  all  the  fat  and  reduce  it  one  third.  Glaze  the  tongue  nicely  with  this,  dish  it  up,  and 
garnish  around  with  a  vegetable  macedoine  (No.  2755)  thickened  with  veloute  (No.  415)  and  some 
good  butter.  A  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  should  be  served  separately. 

(1471).  TEIPE  A  LA  MODE  DE  CAEN  (Gras-double  a  la  Mode  de  Caen). 

In  order  to  be  successful  with  this  recipe,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  large  earthen  pot 
and  a  brick  oven  with  hermetically  closed  cast  iron  doors;  it  will  take  for  a  pot  containing 
thirty-five  pounds,  from  twelve  to  fourteen  hours;  beside  the  tripe  as  ordinarily  used,  include 
also  the  "  franchmule  "  the  fourth  stomach  properly  called  the  reed  (Abomasum)  and  "  feuillet  " 
the  third  stomach  properly  called  the  manyplies  (Omasum)  and  two  boned  ox  feet.  The  tripe  must  be 
raw,  well  cleansed,  and  extremely  fresh.  Divide  it  into  pieces  two  inches  square;  cover  the  bottom 
of  the  pot  with  slices  of  pork,  lay  the  tripe  on  top  and  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  five  onions, 
one  of  them  having  five  cloves  in  it,  a  boned  ox  foot,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  some  quartered  carrots,  and  above  this  set  another  layer  of  tripe, 
and  ox  foot,  seasoned  with  salt  and  mignonette,  and  so  on  until  the  pot  is  full,  besides  adding  a 
quart  of  water.  The  last  layer  must  be  the  "  feuillet."  "When  the  tripe  is  taken  from  the  oven, 
remove  the  "  feuillet"  and  skim  off  all  the  fat,  take  out  the  vegetables  and  parsley,  then  serve  very 
hot, 

(1472).  TKIPE  A  LA  POULETTE  WITH  MUSHEOOMS  (Gras-donble  a  la  Poulette  aux  Champignons). 
Select  previously  well  cleansed  raw,  fat  and  very  fresh  tripe,  blanch  it  for  ten  minuoes 
and  when  drained  cool  it  off,  cut  it  into  large  pieces  and  put  them  into  a  stock-pot  with 
water,  salt,  allspice,  carrots,  onion  with  two  cloves,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme 
and  bay  leaf;  let  boil  very  gently  on  a  slow  fire  for  eight  hours  keeping  the  cover  on  close,  then 
put  the  tripe  aside  to  cool  in  its  own  water.  Drain  and  wipe  it  off,  and  cut  it  into  two  inch  by  one- 
half  inch  pieces,  then  fry  them  in  butter  without  attaining  a  color;  drain  off  the  butter,  cover  the 
tripe  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  into  it  a  piece 
of  fine  butter,  some  chopped  parsley  and  minced  mushrooms,  and  a  little  lemon  juice. 

(1473).  TKIPE  A  LA  TARTAEE  (Gras-double  a  la  Tartare). 

Have  some  well  cooked  honey-combed  tripe;  cut  it  into  two-inch  squares,  put  it  in 
a  bowl,  seasoning  it  with  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  chopped  onions;  sprinkle  over  some  oil 


506  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  lemon  juice,  and  let  the  tripe  macerate  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour.  Drain  it  off,  and  dip 
each  piece  in  melted  butter  and  fresh  bread-crumbs,  then  broil  them  on  a  slow  fire.  Dress  the 
tripe  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  serve  at  the  same  time,  but  separately,  a  sauce-bowl  of  tartar 
sauce  (No.  631). 

(1474)  TKIPE  BAKED  WITH  PAKMESAN  CHEESE  (Gras-double  Parmesan  au  Gratin). 

Have  some  very  fresh  cooked  tripe;  cut  it  into  one  and  a  quarter  inch  squares  arrange 
them  on  a  buttered  dish  in  layers,  besprinkle  each  layer  with  pepper  and  grated  parmesan 
cheese,  and  pour  over  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  a  little 
good  gravy,  dredge  over  the  top  some  bread-crumbs  and  more  grated  parmesan,  pour  over  some 
butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

(1475).  TRIPE  LYONNAISE  (Gras- double  Lyonnaise). 

Have  some  fresh  tripe,  white  and  well  cooked;  cut  it  into  strips  two  inches  long  by  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  wide;  mince  four  ounces  of  white  onions,  fry  them  slowly  in  a  pan  with  half  oil 
and  half  butter,  in  the  meanwhile  frying  the  tripe  in  another  pan;  when  the  contents  of  both  have 
attained  a  nice  color,  mix  them  together  and  continue  frying  for  ten  minutes,  tossing  them 
constantly,  when  brown,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  or  good  vinegar  and  chopped 
parsley.  Drain  off  the  butter  well  and  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish. 

(1476).  TRIPE,  PARISIAN  STYLE  (Gras-double  k  la  Parisienne). 

Cut  Julienne-shaped  (No.  318)  some  carrots  and  celery  roots,  blanch  them,  drain  and  fry  them  in 
lard  with  minced  onions  and  leeks;  add  the  quarter  of  the  same  quantity  of  mushrooms  cut  into 
three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  and  two  pounds  of  tripe  cut  into  strips  one  inch  and  a  half  by  one-quar- 
ter of  an  inch,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and 
a  clove  of  garlic.  Moisten  to  the  height  of  the  tripe  with  broth  (No.  194a),  boil  up  once,  and  then 
place  it  in  the  oven  for  one  hour;  skim  off  the  fat,  reduce  the  stock  with  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549) 
and  soubise  sauce  (No.  543);  serve  up  the  tripe,  pouring  the  reduced  sauce  over. 

(1477).  TRIPE  PAUPIETTES  (Paupiettes  de  Gras-double). 

Cut  strips  of  cooked  tripe  four  inches  long  by  two  inches  wide;  cover  one  side  of  these  with  a 
layer  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  mingled  with  some  chopped  ham,  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  roll 
the  strips  up,  and  lay  them  in  buttered  tin  rings;  line  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  slices  of 
raw  ham,  carrots,  celery,  and  minced  onions,  also  a  garnished  bouquet;  then  place  the  paupiettes 
on  top.  Dilute  it  to  the  heighth  of  the  rings  with  broth  (No.  194a).  Cover  with  a  round  piece  of  but- 
tered paper,  and  put  it  to  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  two  hours,  adding  a  very  small  quantity  of  broth 
each  time  the  gravy  becomes  too  much  reduced;  when  the  paupiettes  are  well  done,  drain  them, 
lay  them  in  a  saute  pan,  pour  over  them  their  own  gravy  reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  and  put  them 
back  into  the  oven;  glaze  and  dress  them  on  a  very  hot  dish  pouring  over  the  gravy  to  which  has 
been  added  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  straining  the  whole  through  a 
very  fine  sieve. 

(1478).  TRIPE  WITH  OOOKED  FINE  HERBS  (Gras-double  aux  Fines  Herbes  Ouites). 

Take  some  white,  fresh,  and  well-cooked  tripe;  out  it  into  strips  of  one  and  a  half  by  one  inch, 
and  fry  them  in  butter.  Fry  separately  in  butter  some  chopped  onions  and  shallots,  some  chopped 
fresh  mushrooms,  and  when  the  latter  have  evaporated  their  moisture,  add  half  as  much  chopped 
truffles  as  there  are  mushrooms,  then  put  in  the  tripe,  seasoning  it  all  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little 
lemon  juice,  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  a  very  little  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  sprinkle  over 
some  chopped  parsley. 


(Veau). 


(1479).  BEAINS  A  L'AURORA  (Cervelles  a  1'Aurore), 

Remove  the  thin  skin  covering  the  brains  also  the  fibres.  Lay  the  brains  in  fresh  water  for 
several  hours,  carefully  changing  it  at  intervals,  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  water, 
and  season  with  salt,  whole  pepper,  chopped  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  a  little  vinegar.  Boil, 
then  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes;  drain,  and  cut  each  one  into  twelve  equal-sized  pieces. 
Arrange  them  on  a  buttered  and  bread-crumbed  dish,  cover  with  an  aurora  sauce  (No.  430),  adding 
to  it  for  each  brain  the  chopped  whites  of  four  hard  boiled  eggs;  and  some  chopped  up  parsley. 
Set  the  four  hard  yolks  on  a  sieve,  and  with  a  spoon  press  them  through  over  the  brains.  Spread 
some  butter  on  top,  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 


(1480).  BRAINS  A  LA  OHASSAIGNE  (Cervelles  k  la  Chassaigne). 

Prepare  the  brains  the  same  as  for  the  poulette  (No.  1481);  drain  and  dress  them  on  a  hot 
dish  and  cover  with  the  following  sauce:  Have  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  415),  four  hard  boiled  egg-yolks 
pounded  with  six  ounces  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  English  mustard;  pass  the  whole  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  add  chopped  and  blanched  chervil,  chives,  tarragon,  and  shallot,  also  a  little  spinach 
or  vegetal  green.  Season  properly,  then  add  just  when  serving,  a  few  chopped  gherkins;  pour  this 
sauce  over  the  brains. 


1481).  BRAINS  A  LA  POULETTE  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Cervelles  a  la  Poulette  aux  Champignons). 

Soak  some  brains  in  cold  water  for  two  hours,  remove  the  sangineous  skin  enveloping 
ihem,  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  to  cook;  cover  with  water,  add  a  dash  of  vinegar,  some  sliced 
carrots  and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and 
whole  peppers;  cook  without,  boiling,  letting  them  barely  simmer  on  the  side  of  the  range  half 
an  hour;  drain  on  a  napkin  and  cut  them  lengthwise  in  four,  range  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and 
fill  up  the  empty  space  with  mushrooms  added  to  a  poulette  sauce  (No,  527),  pouring  a  part  of  it 
over  the  brains.  Garnish  around  with  triangle-shaped  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  clarified  butter, 
and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 


(1482).  BRAINS  IN  MATELOTE  (Cervelles  en  Matelote). 

Hare  the  brains  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  the  aurora  (No.  1479).  Brown  in  a  pan  either 
with  butter  or  lard,  three  dozen  small  raw  onions,  seasoning  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  when  of  a 
fine  color,  put  them  into  a  small  sautoir  with  some  broth  (No.  194a),  and  finish  cooking,  letting  the 
liquid  fall  several  times  to  a  glaze;  drain  the  brains,  wipe  dry,  and  dress  them  triangle-shaped  on 
a  dish;  between  each  brain  set  a  few  of  the  onions,  a  cluster  of  stoned  and  stuffed  olives,  and  one 
of  small  mushroom  heads.  Cover  the  brains  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  red  wine, 
and  finished  with  a  little  anchovy  butter  (No.  569);  garnish  around  with  trussed  crawfish. 

(1483).  BRAINS,  PEASANT  STYLE  (Cervelles  k  la  Paysanne). 

Cook  the  brains  and  finish  them  the  same  as  for  aurora  (No.  1479);  drain,  wipe,  and  cut  them 
in  thick  slices;  roll  each  of  these  in  flour.  Put  some  melted  butter  into  a  sautoir,  let  boil  and 
purify  well,  and  when  it  begins  to  blacken,  add  the  pieces  of  brain;  as  soon  as  they  are  colored  on 
one  side,  turn  them  over,  and  let  them  do  likewise  on  the  other,  then  lift  them  out  without  break- 
ing and  lay  them  on  a  napkin;  wipe  and  then  dress  the  slices  on  a  well  buttered  white  sauce  (No. 
562)  into  which  has  been  mixed  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(507) 


508  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1484),  BRAINS  WITH  BLACK  OR  HAZELNUT  BUTTER  (Cervelles  an  Beurre  Noir  on  au  beurre 

Noisette). 

Have  the  brains  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  the  poulette  (No.  1481);  when  done 
drain  and  dress  them  in  the  center  of  a  very  hot  dish;  strew  over  with  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper  and  baste  with  black  butter  (No.  565);  put  a  dash  of  vinegar  into  the  pan  and  pour  it  over 
the  brains  with  the  butter;  both  butter  and  vinegar  must  be  strained  through  a  fine  sieve. 

(1485).    BRAINS    WITH    TOMATOED    BE'ARNAISE    SAUCE    (Oervelles  a  la  sauce    B6arnaise 

(Tomate"e). 

Skin  some  brains,  that  is,  remove  carefully  the  membrane  that  covers  them  without  break- 
ing the  brain;  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  two  hours,  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  only  to 
stiffen;  drain  and  cook  them  for  twelve  minutes  in  a  good  white  wine  mirepoix  (No.  419)  and 
arrange  them  on  a  dish.  Cover  with  a  tomatoed  Bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433). 

(1486).  BRAINS  WITH  VENETIAN  OR  GREEN  HOLANDAISE  SAUCE  (Cervelles  k  la  Sauce 
V6netienne  ou  a  la  Sauce  Hollandaise  Verte). 

Blanch  the  calves' brains  the  same  as  for  the  poulette  (No.  1481);  divide  each  one  in  four 
parts  and  dress  every  piece  on  a  separate  oval-shaped  slice  of  bread  that  has  been  fried  in  butter; 
place  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  cover  either  with  Venetian  sauce  (No.  555),  or  Hollandaise  vert  pre 
sauce  (No.  477). 

(1487).  BREAST  OP  VEAL  A  LA  BOURDALOUE  (Poitrine  de  Veau  a  la  Bourdaloue). 
Remove  the  bones  from  a  breast  of  veal  without  touching  the  gristle;  pick  the  skin  with 
a  trussing  needle  to  extract  all  the  air,  and  season  it  on  the  boned  side;  roll  it  up  lengthwise 
and  tie.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  a  few  minced  vegetables,  lay  the  breast  on  top,  salt 
lightly  and  moisten  to  half  its  height  with  some  unskimmed  stock  (No.  194a);  add  a  bunch  of 
aromatic  herbs,  put  on  the  lid  and  let  the  liquid  reduce  to  a  glaze;  remoisten  to  half  its  height  and 
finish  cooking  the  meat  in  a  moderate  oven,  turning  it  over  frequently  during  the  time  so  that  it 
gets  a  fine  color  all  over.  Before  serving  drain,  untie,  and  keep  it  warm,  while  stirring  into  its 
gravy  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine;  let  boil,  strain  through  a  sieve,  free  it  of  its  fat  and  thicken 
with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414).  Dress  the  meat  on  a  long  dish  and  garnish  around  with  veal 
quenelles,  and  small  canapes  garnished  with  chopped  up  ham,  serving  the  sauce  separately. 

(1488).  BREAST  OP  VEAL  A  LA  MONDOUX  (Poitrine  de  Veau  a  la  Mondoux). 
Procure  a  white  and  fat  breast  of  veal;  cover  a  baking  pan  with  minced  carrots  and 
onions,  fragments  of  fat  pork  and  a  garnished  bouquet;  lay  the  breast  on  top,  moistening  to  its 
heighth  with  stock  (No.l94a);  first  boil  then  cook  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  three  hours,  being  careful  to 
turn  it  over  several  times  during  this  period.  When  the  breast  is  well  done,  remove  the  hard  ribs, 
leaving  on  the  gristle;  set  it  under  a  weight,  and  when  nearly  cold  bread-crumb  them  English 
style  (No.  13).  Butter  liberally  a  baking  sheet,  lay  the  meat  on  top,  sprinkle  over  with  more  but- 
ter, then  brown  it  nicely  in  a  slow  oven.  Dress  on  a  long  dish  and  range  around  a  garnishing 
composed  of  tomatoes  cut  in  halves  and  the  moisture  extracted,  shredded  green  peppers,  chopped 
onions  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  the  whole  fried  in  butter  and  diluted  with  a  little  veloute  (No.  415), 
nicely  seasoned  and  besprinkled  with  chopped  parsley. 

(1489).  BREAST  OF  VEAL  AU  GASTRONOME  (Poitrine  de  Veau  au  Gastronome). 
Select  a  fine  breast  of  veal  as  long  and  wide  as  possible;  remove  the  red  bones  covering 
the  gristle,  prick  the  skin  with  a  needle,  and  lay  a  towel  over  the  meat,  then  with  a  cleaver  strike 
the  top  with  a  few  blows  so  as  to  expel  the  air;  slip  the  blade  of  a  knife  between  the  skin  and  ribs, 
as  far  as  the  gristle  and  the  ends,  and  fill  the  space  in  with  a  veal  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  to 
which  has  been  added  very  finely  chopped  chives  and  red  beef  tongue;  sew  up  the  skin  quite  close 
to  the  rib  bones  to  give  it  its  original  shape.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  roasting  pan;  cover  it  with 
minced  carrots  and  onions  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  lay  the  breast  on  top,  spread  it  over 
with  good  fat  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  or  water.  Two  and  a  half  hours  before  serv- 
ing put  the  breast  into  a  moderate  oven,  baste  it  occasionally,  glaze  it  of  a  fine  color  and  serve  it 
with  the  half-glaze  (No.  400)  poured  over  and  gastronome  potatoes  (No.  2789)  around. 


VEAL. 


509 


VEAL,  AMERICAN  OUTS  (Veau,  Coupe  a  I'Amfricaine), 


1.  Head  and  Neck 


2.  Rack 


3.  Loin  and  Saddle 


4.  Leg 


5.  Feet 


6.  Breast 


7.  Shoulder 


8.  Tail 


9.  Fore  Quarter 


10.  Hind  Quarter 


FIG.  322. 


VEAL,  AMEEIOAN  AND  TRENCH  CUTS. 


Thick  End  of  Loin  — 


Knuckle 

Slice  of  Round 
Kernel 

Tenderloin 

Kidney 
Quarter 

Breast 

Shoulder 

Nut  (Small  gland) 

Tendrons  or  Gristle 
Knuckle 


Fro.  323. 


510  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1490).  BLAITQUETTE  OF  BKEAST  OP  VEAL  A  LA  JAOQUAET  (Blanquette  de  Poitrine  de  Veau 

a  laJacquart. 

Have  two  pounds  of  breast  of  veal  cut  into  half  inch  pieces;  lay  them  in  tepid  water  for  two 
hours,  then  drain  and  fry  colorless  in  butter;  moisten  with  remoistening  (No.  189)  add  salt,  a 
garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  one  onion,  two  cloves  and  pieces  of  carrots;  let  all  boil  for  one  hour, 
or  until  finished  cooking;  drain,  and  make  a  veloute  (No.  415)  with  the  stock;  after  this  sauce  is 
well  skimmed,  thicken  it  with  six  egg-yolks,  butter,  and  lemon  juice;  run  it  through  a  tammy. 
Pare  the  pieces  of  meat,  put  them  back  into  the  sauce,  also  the  onions  and  some  turned  and 
channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118);  stir  and  toss  well  together  in  the  saucepan,  then  dress  with 
braized  chestnuts  (No.  654)  around. 

(1491).  BEEAST  OF  VEAL  STEWED  WITH  EOUX  (Eagout  de  Portrine  Veau  au  Eoux). 

Cut  a  breast  of  veal  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  square;  fry  them  without  browning  in  some 
butter;  then  drain  this  butter  off  and  moisten  with  a  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a).  Make  a 
roux  (No.  163)  not  too  dark;  dilute  it  with  a  part  of  the  stock,  then  throw  in  the  veal,  one  carrot, 
two  onions  (one  of  them  having  two  cloves  in  it)  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  let  boil  slowly  for  one  hour,  then  add 
forty  small  onions  fried  to  a  fine  color  in  butter  and  twenty  turned  mushroom  heads  (No.  118). 
When  the  meat  is  done,  the  sauce  should  be  reduced  to  a  proper  consistency;  dress  the  veal,  lay 
the  small  onions  around  with  the  turned  mushrooms;  season  the  sauce,  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
and  pour  it  over  the  stew. 

(1492).  BEEAST  OF  VEAL  WITH  TOMATOES,  QUEEN  STYLE-STUFFED  (Poitrine  de  Vear 

Farcie  aux  Tomates  Eeine). 

Select  the  breast  of  veal  as  long  and  wide  as  it  can  be  had;  split  it  open  its  entire  length  on 
the  straight  side  without  separating  the  two  parts,  or  evei;  the  ends;  season  the  inside  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  then  proceed  to  fill  the  empty  space  with  a  forcemeat  prepared  as  follows: 
have  one  pound  of  lean  veal,  the  same  of  fat  pork,  and  half  a  pound  of  panada  (No.  121);  chop 
the  veal  and  pork  up  separataly,  add  to  it  the  panada,  then  pound  the  whole  well  together  with  some 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  two  whole  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of  parsley,  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms, 
and  half  a  pound  of  ham  both  chopped.  Mix  well  this  preparation,  and  fill  the  breast  with  it;  sew 
up  the  aperture  with  coarse  thread,  then  lay  the  meat  in  a  braziere  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork, 
minced  carrots  and  onions;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  and  after  letting  it  fall  to  a 
glaze,  moisten  it  once  more  with  a  quart  of  stock;  when  this  comes  to  a  boil,  set  the  pan  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  two  hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours,  basting  it  over  frequently,  and  when  done  glaze 
it  to  a  fine  color.  Strain  and  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze;  dress 
the  meat  on  a  long  dish,  pour  part  of  the  gravy  over,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  queen  tomatoes 
(No.  2840),  serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  the  same  stock  reduced  with  the  same  quantity  of 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 

(1493).  BEEAST  OF  VEAL  A  LA  MENAGEEE  (Poitrine  de  Veau  a  la  Menagere), 
Have  a  fine  fat  breast  of  veal;  prick  the  skin  with  a  needle,  cover  over  with  a  cloth;  strike  it 
several  blows  with  a  cleaver,  then  fry  it  lightly  in  butter,  and  when  nicely  browned,  remove  and 
trim  it  into  an  oval-shape;  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  add  small  bits  of  bacon,  carrot,  and  turnip 
in  the  shape  of  balls;  moisten  with  white  wine  and  stock  (No.  194a),  then  let  fall  to  a  glaze.  Ke- 
moisten  again  and  cook  the  meat  in  a  slow  oven  while  moistening  frequently  until  thoroughly 
done,  then  dress  it  with  the  carrots  on  one  side  and  the  turnips  on  the  other,  the  pieces  of  bacon 
on  the  ends;  strain  the  gravy,  free  it  of  its  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze.  Just  when  ready 
to  serve,  add  to  half  of  the  gravy  a  liberal  piece  of  fresh  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley, 
serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat;  pour  over  the  breast  the  remaining  gravy. 

(1494).  CALF'S  OEOW  A  LA  NOEMANDE  (Praise  de  Veau  a  la  Normande), 
After  soaking  a  fine  calf's  crow,  cut  it  up  into  quarter  pound  pieces.  Lay  on  the  bottom  of 
the  vessel  intended  for  cooking  this  dish,  first  a  layer  of  calf's  feet  cut  in  two  lengthwise  and  the 
crow,  on  top  a  bed  of  minced  onions  and  shallots,  a  little  garlic  and  chopped  parsley;  season  each 
layer  with  salt  and  mignonette,  continuing  until  the  vessel  is  full;  then  cover  over  with  a  piece  of 
fat  pork  and  add  a  bunch  ot  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  parsley;  pour  over  two  bottlefuls  of  cider  with  a 
glass  of  brandy.  Hermetically  close  the  vessel  by  rubbing  a  little  paste  between  it  and  the  lid, 
and  set  it  in  a  slack  baker's  oven  for  six  hours;  skim  off  the  grease;  remove  the  meat,  free  it  from 
bones,  place  it  on  a  chafing  dish  and  strain  the  stock  over. 


VEAL.  511 

(1495),  VEAL  OUTLETS  A  LA  OHIPOLATA  (Cotelettes  de  Veau  a  la  Ohipolata). 
Pare  some  veal  cutlets  and  lard  them  with  cooked  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue.  Cover  thebot- 
•tom  of  a  buttered  sautoir  with  round  slices  of  onions,  carrots,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  branches  of 
parsley;  lay  the  cutlets  on  top  and  moisten  to  the  heighth  of  the  vegetables  with  stock  (No.l94a);  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  let  boil  and  cook  on  a  moderate  fire  basting  them  frequently.  Dress  the 
cutlets  when  done,  strain  the  stock,  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze,  add  as  much 
brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  garnish  with  braised  chestnuts  (No.  654),  braised  carrots  and  turnips, 
also  some  mushrooms  and  small  boiled  chipolata  sausages  (No.  754). 

(1496).  VEAL  CUTLETS  PLAIN  AND  A  LA  GEORGINA  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  Nature  et  a  la  Georgina), 
Have  a  rack  of  very  white  veal  containing  four  covered  ribs;  bone  the  chain  of  the  spine  and 
saw  off  the  rib  bones  from  the  beginning  of  the  spine;  trim  the  chops  thus  obtained,  flatten 
them  lightly  and  pare  them  rounded  at  the  angles;  season  with  salt,  lay  them  in  melted  butter. 
Twenty  minutes  before  serving  broil  them  on  a  slow,  well  maintained  fire  to  let  them  acquire  a 
good  color;  it  will  require  from  sixteen  to  eighteen  minutes  to  cook  them  to  perfection,  turning 
them  over  after  they  have  been  on  eight  cr  nine  minutes.  Dress  them  on  hot  dishes,  pour  some 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over  and  serve. 

A  la  Georgina. — Dress  the  cutlets  crown-shape  and  garnish  around  or  in  the  center  with  risot 
and  parmesan  cheese  (No.  739),  and  minced  mushrooms  in  the  center.  Around  the  risot  place 
artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  two  and  fried  in  butter.  Pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  some  light 
gravy  (No.  404),  and  serve  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  mixed  separately. 

(1497).  VEAL  OUTLETS  A  LA  SEYMOUR  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  a  la  Seymour). 
Prepare  the  cutlets  the  same  as  when  cooked  plain  (No.  1496),  season  and  dip  in  eggs,  roll  them 
in  chopped  up  truffles  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Dress  and  garnish  around  with 
flowerets  of  cauliflower  and  cromesquis  of  sweetbreads  (No.   872).     Pour  part  of  a  ravigote  sauce 
(No.  531)  over  the  cutlets,  serving  the  remainder  separately. 

(1498).  VEAL  OUTLETS  A  LA  ZINGAEA  OR  SINGARA  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  alaZingaraouSingara). 
Prepare  the  cutlets  exactly  as  for  the  plain  ones  (No.  1496);  lay  them  in  a  sauteing  dish  with 
some  butter,  and  cook  them  quickly,  adding  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  and  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine;  reduce  this  to  a  glaze,  moisten  once  more  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  and  let  smother  for 
fifteen  minutes;  turn  them  over  and  finish  cooking  taking  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  longer. 
Cut  some  Westphalia  ham  in  slices,  pare  them  like  half  hearts,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  fry 
them  in  butter  and  lay  one  between  each  cutlet  when  dressed;  detach  the  ham  glaze  in  the  pan 
with  some  white  wine  and  add  to  it  the  half-glaze  of  the  cutlets,  also  a  pinch  of  cayenne  and 
lemon  juice;  strain  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  cutlets  and  ham. 

(1499).  VEAL  OUTLETS,  HALF-GLAZE  (Ootelettes  de  Veau,  Demi-glace). 
After  preparing  six  cutlets  as  for  maitre  d'hotel  (No.  1501)  without  any  larding,  put  them  into 
a  heavily  buttered  sauteing  pan  with  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  Madeira 
wine  and  half  a  pint  of  good  veal  blond  stock  (No.  423).  Let  come  to  a  boil,  then  place  it  in  a  slow 
oven;  at  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  turn  them  over  so  that  they  do  not  cook  too  rapidly,  and  after 
another  fifteen  minutes  they  should  be  sufficiently  glazed.  Dress  them  on  a  dish;  strain  and 
skim  the  fat  from  the  stock  adding  to  it  a  spoonful  of  half-glaze  (No.  400); 
pour  this  over  the  cutlets  and  garnish  them  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  then 
serva, 

(1500).  VEAL  OUTLETS  WITH  CHICORY-LARDED  (Cotelettes  de  Veau 

Piquets  a  la  Chicore"e\ 

Pare  six  small  veal  cutlets,  keeping  the  bone  end  rather  short  and  the  meat 
not  too  thick;  lard  them  in  the  center  all  on  the  same  side.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  a  sautoir  with  fragments  of  fat  pork  and  cut  up  onions  and  carrots,  on  this 
range  the  cutlets,  season  and  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  stock  (No.l94a);  stand 
the  sautoir  on  a  hot  fire,  reduce  the  liquid  to  half,  then  cover  the  cutlets  with 
buttered  paper;  cook  while  covered  on  a  slow  fire  or  in  a  very  slack  oven  in- 
creasing the  moistening  from  time  to  time,  lastly,  glaze  the  cutlets  at  the  oven 
door  having  them  uncovered  and  basting  with  their  own  stock.  Dress  them,  in- 
a  straight  row  on  a  long  dish,  the  handle  bone  placed  underneath;  surround 
both  sides  with  a  garnishing  of  chiccory  cream  (No.  2729);  detach  the  glaze  from  the  sautoir 
with  a  little  broth  and  baste  the  meats  with  this  after  it  has  been  skimmed  and  strained. 


512 


THE    EPICUIlEAlSr. 


(1501).  VEAL  OUTLETS,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (Cotelettes  de  Veau  Maitre  d'Hotel). 
Cut  six  outlets  from  a  rack  rather  thick  and  straight,  each  one  having  one  rib  bone;  cut  the 
chain  bone  so  as  to  detach  the  meat;  suppress  all  the  skin  covering  the  fat  and  shorten 
the  bone  on  the  spine  end,  beat  down  the  cutlets,  not  too  thin,  with  a 
damp  cleaver  on  a  slightly  wet  table;  scrape  the  rib  bone  toward  the  top 
where  the  frill  is  placed;  round  and  pare  the  meat  of  the  cutlet;  season  with 
salt,  coat  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter;  range  them  on  a  broiler,  and  broil 
them  on  a  moderate  fire  for  sixteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  turning  them  over 
at  the  end  of  eight  or  nine  minutes.  Lay  them  on  a  dish,  glaze  over  with  a 
brush,  trim  the  handles  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10)  and  dress  them  crown-shaped 
on  the  serving  dish  with  a  layer  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  between 
each  one.  For  plain  serve  the  above  with  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1502).  VEAL  OUTLETS,  MILANESE  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  Milanaise). 
Have  six  pared  veal  cutlets;  dip  them  in  clarified  butter,  then  in  bread- 
cruirtbs  and  immerse  them  in  strained  and  beaten  eggs;  then  again  in  bread- 
FIQ.  325.  crumbs  mixed  with  half  the  quantity  of  grated  parmesan,  and  smooth  this 

second  breading  carefully  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  so  as  to  have  it  level  and 
even.  Twenty  minutes  before  serving  put  into  a  sauteing-pan  sufficiently  large  to  contain  the 
cutlets  without  squeezing  them,  enough  clarified  butter  to  allow  them  to  swim;  fry  them  to  a 
fine  golden  color,  being  careful  to  turn  them  over  once  only,  then  drain,  ornament  with  a  paper 
frill  (No.  10)  and  dress;  pour  around  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413),  and  surround  with  tomato  or  macaroni  Milanaise  timbales  (No.  2988). 

(1503).  VEAL  OUTLETS  STUDDED  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Ootelettes  de  Veau 

OloutSe  aux  Trufies). 

Pare  six  covered  veal  cutlets  keeping  the  rib  bones  rather  short,  and  the 
meats  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  stud  them  rosette-shaped  all  on  the  same 
side  with  pieces  of  truffles  square  on  one  end,  arid  pointed  on  the  other. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  with  scraps  of  fat  pork,  minced  carrots 
and  onions;  on  this  range  the  cutlets,  season,  and  moisten  to  their  heighth  with 
beef  stock  (No.  194a);  set  the  saucepan  on  a  brisk  fire,  reduce  the  liquid  to 
half,  cover  the  chops  with  buttered  paper,  and  let  cook  with  the  lid  on  over  a 
slow  fire,  or  else  in  the  oven,  increasing  the  moistening  at  frequent  intervals. 
At  the  very  last  moment  allow  them  to  glaze  while  uncovered,  basting  with 
their  own  stock;  lift  them  out,  pare  them  slightly,  garnish  the  handles  with 
paper  frills  (No.  10),  and  dress  over  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  reduced  with  essence  of  truffles 
(No.  395). 

(1504).  VEAL  OUTLETS  WITH  FINE  HERBS  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  aux  Fines  Herbes). 
Cut,  pare,  beat,  and  season  six  or  eight  veal  cutlets;  put  them  into  a  sautoir  containing 
butter,  fry  them  on  both  sides  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  well  browned,  drain  off  the  fat  into 
another  small  saucepan,  and  lay  it  on  one  side.  Moisten  the  meat  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a), 
let  the  liquid  fall  siowly  to  a  glaze  in  such  a  way  as  to  finish  the  cooking,  and  lastly  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  white  wine.  In  the  fat  put  aside,  fry  colorless  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  chopped 
shallots  and  onions,  with  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  chopped  up  raw  mushrooms,  and  continue  frying 
until  these  have  lost  all  their  humidity,  then  thicken  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Let  this 
cook  for  a  few  minutes,  and  pour  it  over  the  cutlets  in  the  sautoir;  besprinkle  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  chopped  truffles  and  cooked  ham,  and  let  simmer  together  for  seven  or  eight  minutes. 
Dress  the  cutlets  garnished  with  frills  (No.  10)  on  a  long  dish;  add  to  the  sauce  a  pinch  of 
chopped  and  blanched  parsley  leaves,  pour  it  over  the  meat. 

(1505).  STUFFED  EARS,  TOMATO  SAUCE  (Oreilles  Farcies  a  la  Sauce  Tomate). 

Cook  three    or  four  small  and  very    clean    calves'   ears  in  stock  (No.    182);    drain  and 

leave  them  till  nearly  cold,  and  when  properly  wiped,  shorten  and  divide  each  ear  into  two  parts; 

pare  nicely,  season  and  stuff  these  halves  by  covering  them  over  with  a  thick  baking  forcemeat  (No. 

81),  mixed  with  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  veal  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92),  and  a  few  spoonfuls 


FIG.  326. 


VEAL.  513 

of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  smooth  them  down  nicely  and  roll  the  half  ears  into  white  bread- 
crumbs, dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  bread-crumb  once  more,  and  plunge  into  very  hot  frying  fat  to 
brown  while  heating;  drain,  salt,  and  dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin  with  fried  parsley.  A 
tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  should  be  served  separately. 

(1506).  CALVES'  FEET,  AMEKIOAN  STYLE  (Pieds  de  Veau  a  1'Amencaine). 
Dry  and  singe  six  calves'  feet;  split  them  in  two  to  suppress  the  middle  bone,  return  them  to 
their  original  shape,  and  tie  them  together,  then  parboil  for  ten  minutes;  remove,  drain,  and  put 
them  back  into  a  saucepan  with  water,  salt,  carrots,  and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  whole  peppers,  and  cloves;  let  this  cook  on  a  moderate  fire  for  one  hour  and  a 
half.  Fry  in  some  lard,  a  few  celery  roots,  onions,  and  ham  cut  in  dice;  moisten  with 
the  above  stock  and  white  wine,  add  to  it  the  feet,  and  when  well  cooked,  which  will  take 
about  three  hours,  drain  and  bone  them;  season  over  with  salt,  mignonette,  and  nutmeg,  and 
place  them  under  a  weight;  when  cold,  pare,  besprinkle  with  finely  chopped  parsley  and  shallots, 
then  dip  them  in  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  over  a  slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes, 
basting  them  with  melted  butter.  Dress  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  and  veloute  sauce  (No. 415),  half  of  each,  seasoned  with  curry,  and  thickened  with  egg-yolks. 

(1507).  GRENADINS  OP  FILLET  OF  VEAL,   TOMATOED  AKGENTINE  SAUCE  (Grenadins    de 

Filet  de  Veau  Sauce  Tomates  Argentine). 

If  fine  grenadins  are  required,  they  should  be  cut  either  from  the  minion  fillet  or  from  the 
large  saddle  fillet  or  from  the  kernel;  in  either  case  beat  the  meat  with  a  cleaver,  having 
the  blade  dampened,  flatten  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  pare  them  into  half 
hearts  or  ovals,  all  of  the  same  size;  season  and  lard  with  fat  pork.  Place  these  grenadins 
in  a  sautoir  lined  with  scraps  of  fat  pork,  roots  and  sliced  onions;  moisten  to  half  their  height  with 
stock  (No.  194a),  and  cook,  letting  the  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  several  times,  and  finally  finish  glazing  it 
in  the  oven,  basting  with  its  own  stock.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  lift  them  out,  drain  and  lay  them 
on  a  long  dish,  one  overlapping  the  other  in  a  single  row,  and  around  pour  an  Argentine 
tomato  sauce  (No.  429);  sprinkle  the  meat  over  with  tae  stock,  strained  free  of  fat  and  well 
reduced. 

(1508).  MINCED  FILLET  OF  VEAL,  PORTUGUESE  (Emince'  de  Filet  de  Veau  a  la  Portugaise). 

Chop  up  one  shallot  very  finely  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  port  wine  and  a 
finely  shredded  orange  peel,  a  pint  of  cayenne  pepper,  lemon  juice  and  half  a  pint  of  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414);  boil  and  reduce  the  whole  to  the  consistency  of  sauce.  Heat  some  cooked  veal 
fillets  cut  up  into  slices,  dress  them  in  the  center  of  a  circle  of  poached  eggs  laid  on  oval- 
shaped  croutons,  and  place  on  top  of  each  egg  a  piece  of  tongue  cut  the  shape  of  a  crouton; 
pour  the  sauce  over  all. 

(1509).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  VEAL,  WITH  PUREE  OF  ARTICHOKES  (Filets  Mignons  de  Veau 

a  la  PurSe  d'Artichauts), 

From  the  thickest  part  of  an  uncooked,  pared  minion  fillet  of  veal,  cut  off  slices  each 
half  an  inch,  having  them  slightly  biased  so  as  to  obtain  them  wider;  flatten  with  the  cleaver, 
pare  into  rounds  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  or  in  ovals,  then  season.  Heat  some 
clarified  butter  in  a  sautoir,  range  the  minions  on  the  bottom  and  fry  them  quickly  on  both 
sides,  turning  them  over  as  fast  as  they  are  glazed;  drain  off  the  butter  and  moisten  to  half  of 
their  height  with  some  good  veal  blond  (No.  423);  let  fall  two  or  three  times  slowly  to  a  glaze 
always  adding  more  of  the  same  stock.  When  the  minions  are  well  glazed  and  cooked,  lift 
them  up  one  by  one  with  a  fork,  and  dress  each  on  a  flat  crust  of  bread  browned  in  the  oven; 
range  these  on  along  dish  in  two  straight  rows,  and  at  both  sides  lay  some  artichoke  pur6e  (No. 
704)  pushed  through  a  pocket;  pour  over  part  of  the  stock  from  the  fillets  after  it  has  been 
reduced  with  a  spoonful  of  Madeira  wine.  Serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce  turren. 

(1510).  MINIONS  OF  FILLET  OF  VEAL  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Mignons  de  Filet  deVeau  aux 

Champignons). 

From  a  good  fillet  of  a  saddle  of  veal  cut  eight  or  ten  bias  slices  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and 
weighing  six  ouncos;  beat  to  flatten  and  pare  slightly  oval-shape,  lard  them  on  one  side  with  thin 
lardons  (No.  4,  Fig.  52).  Season  these  minions  and  range  them  one  beside  the  other  in  a  sautoir 


514  THE    EPICUREAN. 

having  the  bottom  ceverered  with  fragments  of  fat  pork  and  a  few  slices  of  onion;  moisten 
to  their  heighth  with  veal  blond  (No.  423)  and  let  this  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze;  moisten  again  and 
cook  them  in  this  manner,  allowing  the  liquid  to  fall  two  or  three  times;  now  drain  out  the 
minions,  pare  them  neatly  and  strain  the  stock,  skim  off  its  fat  and  reduce  it  well.  Put  the  minions 
back  into  the  sautoir,  pour  their  stock  over  and  glaze  to  a  fine  color  in  a  slack  oven  keeping  them 
well  basted.  On  the  center  of  an  entree  dish  fasten  a  very  thin  wooden  bottom  covering  it  with 


FIG.  327. 

cooked  paste  (No.  131);  dry  this  and  glaze  it  over  with  a  brush.  Have  some  quenelle  forcemeat 
prepared  with  the  veal  parings,  fill  a  small  timbale  mold  four  inches  in  diameter  by  two  inches  in 
heighth;  cover  this  forcemeat  with  buttered  paper  and  poach  in  a  bain-marie.  At  the  last 
moment  invert  this  forcemeat  "pain  "  on  the  center  of  the  foundation,  range  the  minions  around 
one  overlapping  the  other;  on  the  top  dress  some  mushroom  heads  in  a  pyramid,  having  them 
cooked  very  white  and  coated  with  veloute  (No.  415);  add  to  the  stock  in  the  sautoir  some  half- 
glaze  (No.  400),  pour  some  of  this  sauce  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  what  remains  apart. 


(1511).  PAUPIETTES  OF  FILLET  OP  VEAL  A  LA  WHITTLES  (Paupiettes  de  Filet  de  Veau  k 

la  Whittier.) 

Blanch  some  small  heart  sweetbreads;  cut  them  up  into  inch  squares.  Pare  three  fillets  of 
veal,  cut  them  into  eighth  of  an  inch  lengthwise  slices,  flatten  them  slightly  and  pare  into  oblongs, 
four  by  two  and  a  quarter;  lay  them  on  the  table,  season  and  spread  over  with  a  forcemeat  pre- 
pared as  follows;  Chop  up  the  parings  of  the  meat  with  the  same  weight  of  fat  pork;  mix  in 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  bread-crumbs,  egg-yolks  and  chopped  up  ham,  season,  roll  up  each 
paupiette,  wrap  them  in  sheets  of  buttered  paper  and  tie  them  at  both  ends  the  same  as  a  boned 
turkey,  braise  these  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  unwrap,  glaze  and  dress  on  a  well-buttered 
bechamel  sauce  (Ne.  409).  Fry  the  sweetbreads  on  a  brisk  fire,  add  to  them  some  raw  fine 
herbs,  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  dress  them  in  the  middle  of  the  paupiettes. 


(1512).  SCHNITZEL,  GEKMAN  STYLE  (Schnitzel  k  I'Allemande). 

Pare  neatly  a  tenderloin  or  a  round  bottom  of  veal  and  cut  in  thin  slices  across  the  grain  of  the 
meat,  beat  these  with  the  blade  of  a  cleaver  to  thin  them  considerably,  then  season  with  salt  and 
pepper;  dip  them  first  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter  (No.  16)  on  a 
brisk  fire,  when  cooked  and  of  a  fine  color,  dress  them  flat  in  a  circle  on  a  buttered  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  into  which  some  lemon  juice  has  been  stirred;  on  each  slice  of  veal  place  one  egg  fried  in 
butter  in  a  frying  pan,  and  on  these  eggs  range  lozenge-shaped  and  symmetrically  some  fillets  of 
anchovies,  and  in  the  center  of  each  lozenge  lay  a  few  nonpareil  capers;  surround  the  dish  with  a 
border  of  gherkins  and  sliced  lemon  having  the  peel  notched. 

(1513).  SCHNITZEL,  VIENNA  STYLE  (Schnitzel  I  la  Viennoise). 

Select  some  good  tenderloins  of  veal;  suppress  the  nervous  parts  and  then  cut  them  into 
slightly  bias  slices;  beat  this  with  the  blade  of  a  cleaver,  and  chop  lightly  with  the  back  of  the 
blade  of  a  knife;  pare  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  them  in  flour,  and  dip  each  piece 
separately  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  saute  and  cook  them  in  clarified  butter,  then 
dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish.  Serve  separately  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  or  thickened 
gravy  (No.  405) 


VEAL.  515 

(1514).  PILLET  OP  YEAL  SLICED  WITH  PELEEINE  POTATOES  (Tranches  de  Filet  de  Veau 

aux  Pommes  Pelerine). 

Slices  of  veal  should  bear  no  resemblance  either  to  cutlets  or  minions.  Slices  of  veal  breaded 
and  fried  are  often  called  cutlets  which  is  an  error,  the  name  of  cutlets  should  only  be  applied  to  a 
piece  of  meat  cut  from  the  rack  having  a  rib  bone  ("cote,"  from  which  it  derives  its  name)  at- 
tached to  it;  sometimes  the  word  is  used  for  imitation  cutlets,  but  as  veal,  mutton,  or  lamb  the 
name  should  not  be  given  to  any  part  excepting  to  one  containing  a  rib.  They  must  be  thin  and 
pared  oval-shaped;  nor  are  they  to  be  taken  from  the  fillet  or  kernel,  but  from  the  large  part  of  the 
minion  fillet.  Trim  the  meat,  cutting  it  transversely  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  beat 
them  well  with  a  moistened  cleaver  to  flatten,  pare  in  ovals  and  season.  Pour  some  clarified  butter  into 
a  large  sautoir,  aiid  cook  the  sliced  meat  in  this  over  a  good  fire,  turning  them  when  done  on  one 
side;  drain  on  a  napkin,  and  glaze  with  a  brush;  dress  them  one  overlapping  the  other  on  a  long 
dish  in  one  straight  row,  and  surround  with  Pelerine  potatoes.  Serve  a  sauce-boatful  of  a  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  and  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  mixed,  at  the  same  time. 

Pelerine  Potatoes. — Have  one-third  of  pate-a-chou  (No.  132),  and  two-thirds  of  potato  puree 
(No.  725);  mix  thoroughly  together  and  form  into  balls  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  roll 
in  flour,  dip  in  eggs,  roll  once  more  in  cracker-dust,  then  fry  in  hot  fat  to  a  fine  color. 

(1515).  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  RENAISSANCE  (Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Renaissance). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  calf's  head  exactly  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1519);  when  cold  cut  one  pound 
of  it  into  inch  squares  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira. 
Heat  it  up  slowly  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  square  pieces 
of  sweetbread,  two  ounces  of  cut  up  truffles,  and  twenty-four  olives.  Dress  the  calf 's  head  in  shallow 
china  dishes,  each  one  containing  sufficient  for  one  person;  lay  on  a  slice  of  brain  Villeroi,  and 
cover  with  a  layer  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  and  bake  in  a  good  oven.  This  entree  may  be  served  in 
a  large  dish,  the  size  being  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  guests. 

(1516).  CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  POULETTE  (Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Poulette). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  calf's  head  as  for  the  plain  (No.  1519);  when  cold  select  the  cheek  pieces 
and  snout  free  of  all  fat,  and  cut  them  up  into  one  and  three-quarter  inch  squares;  put  these  in  a 
sautoir  with  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  heat  it  up  slowly  and  thicken  just  when  ready  to 
serve  with  egg-yolks  and  butter,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice  and  fine  herbs. 
Serve  very  hot. 

(1517).  CALF'S  HEAD  IN  TOETUE  (Tete  de  Veau  en  Tortue). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  head  the  same  as  for  No.  1519;  reduce  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with 
Madeira  and  cayenne  pepper;  add  to  it  veal  quenelles  (No.  92),  sweetbreads  sliced  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick  cut  from  round  pieces  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  mushrooms,  olives,  veal 
palates,  balls  of  gherkins  and  trussed  and  glazed  crawfish.  Drain  the  head,  wipe  dry  on  a  napkin, 
dress  and  surround  it  with  the  garnishing  well  and  symmetrically  arranged;  pour  the  sauce  over, 
and  set  the  glazed  crawfish  around  the  whole. 

(1518).  CALF'S  HEAD  EN  TOETUE,  DEESSED  (Tete  de  Veau  Dressed  en  Tortue), 
Bone  half  of  a  very  white  calf's  head,  put  it  into  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  cut  it 
up  and  finish  cooking  it  in  a  white  stock  (No.  182)  acidulated  with  lemon  juice;  it  will  take  three 


FIG.  338. 


hours  to  boil  slowly.    Have  a  silver  plated  dish  with  a  border  of  the  same;  in  the  center  of  this  fasten 
a  fried  bread  pyramid  covered  with  raw  forcemeat  and  then  poached  in  the  heater  or  slack  oven; 


516  THE    EPICUREAN. 

prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  small  quenelles  molded  with  acoffeespoon  (No.  155)  and  poached, 
large  cocks'-combs,  olives,  fresh  mushroom  heads,  round  truffles  and  green  pickles  cut  into  small  half- 
inch  diameter  balls.  Keep  in  a  bain-marie  a  slightly  tomatoed  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  with  a 
little  truffle  moistening.  Half  an  hour  before  serving  drain  the  pieces  of  head  on  a  cloth,  pare  them 
rounded,  and  slit  the  outside  gristle  of  the  ear  in  order  to  be  able  to  turn  it  backward,  then  lay 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  of  the  sauce,  let  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  and  just  when  prepared  to 
serve  set  the  ear  on  the  top  of  the  pyramid,  fastening  it  down  with  a  small  skewer,  and  surround 
this  support  with  the  remainder  of  the  head  and  garnishings;  cover  over  lightly  with  the  sauce 
and  pour  the  rest  into  a  sauce-bowl  to  be  served  at  the  same  time  as  the  entree. 

(1519).  OALP'S  HEAD  PLAIN  OR  VINAIGEETTE  (Tete  de  Veau  au  Naturel  ou  k  la  Vinaigrette). 
Choose  a  very  white,  fat  and  well  cleaned  calf's  head,  bone  it  entirely;  split  it  in  two  to  par- 
boil dnd  when  done,  dry,  singe  and  scrape  it;  remove  the  tongue,  then  lay  it  in  cold  water  to 
steep  for  one  hour.  Suppress  the  sanguineous  skin  found  on  the  brain  and  soak  this  for  one  hour; 
place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water,  salt  and  vinegar,  let  boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes  to 
cook  it.  Cut  each  half  head  into  five  pieces,  namely:  the  ear  cutoff  largely  from  the  base,  the  eye, 
the  snout  and  two  cheek  pieces;  put  one  pound  of  chopped  suet  into  a  saucepan  able  to  hold  twelve 
quarts  of  water;  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  stir  together  on  the  fire  for  a  few 
moments,  then  lay  in  quartered  carrots  and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  two  cloves,  a  dessertspoonful  of  whole  peppers,  sa'lt  and  half  a  gill  of 
vinegar,  mix  well  and  add  five  quarts  of  water;  set  this  on  the  fire,  stir  till  it  boils,  then  put  in  the 
pieces  of  head  and  the  tongue;  let  cook  for  two  hours,  and  when  it  softens  between  the  two  fingers, 
remove  the  white  skin  covering  both  tongue  and  inside  of  the  snout,  drain  off  the  pieces  and  wipe 
them  dry.  Dress  the  head  simply  on  a  dish  or  folded  napkin,  lay  the  slit  ears  in  the  center  hav- 
ing turned  them  backward  with  the  other  pieces  around  the  tongue  and  brains  split  lengthwise  in 
two;  garnish  around  with  branches  of  parsley;  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  vinai- 
grette sauce  (No.  634),  also  a  saucerful  of  onions  and  parsley,  both  finely  chopped,  whole  capers 
and  vinegar  pickles. 

(1520).  KEENEL  OP  VEAL  A  LA  DUCHESS  (Noix  de  Veau  a  la  Duchesse). 
Select  a  good  kernel  from  a  fat  calf,  retain  the  udder  and  pare  the  fleshy  part  of  the  kernel 
which  is  not  covered;  trim  nicely  and  remove  the  skin  that  covers  the  meat  and  stud  it  over  with 
square  pieces  of  truffles  one  inch  long  and  pointed  on  one  end;  salt  the  meat  lightly  and  cover  the 
studded  part  with  some  slices  of  fat  pork,  tying  them  down.  Lay  the  kernel  in  a  deep  sautoir  lined 
with  fragments  of  suet  or  fat  pork,  and  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter  and  a  little  stock 
(No.  194a),  let  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  or  three  hours  according  to  its  size,  basting  it 
with  the  drippings  in  the  pan.  When  done,  untie  and  dress  it  on  an  oval  dish,  surrounding  the 
meat  with  duchess  potatoes  (No.  2785),  laying  them  in  a  long  square;  glaze  over  with  a  brush  and 
serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  a  part  of  the  stock,  Madeira, 
white  wine  and  chopped  up  truffles. 

(1521).  KEENEL  OF  VEAL  WITH  THICKENED  GEAVY  (Noix  de  Veau  au  jus  116). 

Take  a  kernel  of  veal,  keep  the  udder  whole  and  set  it  between  two  white  cloths  to  beat  it 

down  with  a  cleaver;  pare  a  third  of  the  kernel  by  removing  the  fat  and  sinewy  skin,  then  lard  the 

meat  v/ith  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52).     Line  a  saucepan  with  slices  or  fragments  of  veal,  place  the 

kernel  on  top  with  a  few  onions  and  sliced  carrots,  and  lay  at  the  side  a  bunch  of  parsley  and 


FIG.  329. 

chives;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a),  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  let  boil,  then  put  on  its  lid 
and  set  it  in  the  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  basting  it  often— the  time  for  its  cook- 
ing depends  on  the  quality  and  the  size.  When  done,  drain  and  strain  the  stock.  Skim  off  the  fat, 
reduce  it  to  a  glaze;  use  some  of  it  to  glaze  the  kernel,  and  to  the  remaining  part  add  one  pint  of 


VEAL.  517 

espagnole  (No.  414).  Dress  the  kernel,  pour  some  of  the  sauce  around  and  serve  the  balance  in  a 
sauce-tureen.  Serve  separately  a  sorrel  garnishing  (No.  2818),  a  Eomaine  garnishing  (No.  2816),  a 
chiccory  garnishing  (No.  2729)  or  a  spinach  garnishing  (No.  2820). 

(1522).  KEENEL  OF  VEAL  WITH  HALF-GLAZE  (Noix  de  Veau  a  la  Demi-glace). 
Select  a  kernel  of  veal  as  white  and  fat  as  procurable;  raise  carefully  with  the  tip  of  a  knife 
the  swollen  skin  covering  a  part  of  it.  then  lay  it  on  the  table  and  press  the  meat  down  with  the 
left  hand  while  slipping  the  blade  of  a  very  sharp  knife  between  it  and  the  skin,  pressing  the  knife 
slightly  against  this  skin;  pare  the  meat  all  around  into  an  oval  shape,  and  lard  the  entire  surface  with 
medium-sized  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52).  Three  and  a  half  hours  before  serving  put  some  minced 
carrots,  onions  and  slices  of  lean  ham  into  a  buttered  deep  sautoir,  the  kernel  of  veal  on  top  and  a 
pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  let  this  come  to  a  boil  and  reduce  to  a  glaze;  moisten  again  to  two-thirds  of 
its  heighth  with  stock,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  boil  and  place  it  in  the  oven,  basting  over 
occasionally;  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving,  remove  the  lid  and  paper  covering  the  meat 
and  glaze  the  latter.  Dress  the  kernel  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat  the  stock  passed  through  a  silk 
sieve,  the  fat  removed  and  reduced  to  a  half- glaze. 

(1523).  SMALL  KEENELS  OE  NUTS  WITH  MAOEDOINE  (Noisettes  de  Veau  k  la  Mace"doine). 

Small  Kernels. — A  small  gland  enveloped  in  fat,  found  in  the  shoulder  of  veal  near  the  joint  of  the 
two  large  bones,  on  the  left  of  the  plate  bone.  This  kernel  is  the  size  of  an  ordinary  walnut,  and  is 
considered  a  tidbit  morsel.  Procure  sixteen  of  these  kernels,  soak  them  on  the  corner  of  the  range  for 
two  hours,  without  boiling,  then  parboil,  refresh  and  drain  well;  lay  them  under  a  weight,  pare  them 
oval-shaped,  and  put  them  into  a  sautoir  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  moistened  with  a  mire- 
poix  stock  (No.  419)  made  with  either  white  wine  or  Madeira;  let  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour; 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serving,  drain  off,  strain  and  skim  the  stock;  pour  it  back  over  the 
kernels  and  reduce  the  whole  to  a  half-glaze;  dress  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  a  macedoine 
of  vegetables  (No.  680);  pour  the  half-glaze  over  the  kernels  and  serve. 

(1524).  VEAL  KIDNEYS  A  L'ANDEESON  (Eognons  de  Veau  a  1'Anderson). 
For  six  persons  have  three  small  or  two  large  very  fresh  kidneys;  suppress  the  fat  and  fibrous 
parts,  then  cut  them  up  into  small  slices.  Fry  in  butter  in  a  sautoir  one  ounce  of  chopped  onion,  add 
the  pieces  of  kidney,  and  toss  them  over  a  quick  fire  while  seasoning;  as  soon  as  the  meats  are 
cooked,  pour  all  into  a  sauce  pan;  remove  them  with  a  skimmer  on  a  dish  leaving  the  liquid  in  the 
pan,  and  into  it  pour  one  gill  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  and  one  gill  of  red  wine;  stir  well  with  the  kid- 
ney juice,  and  thicken  with  a  small  piece  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579),  boil  and  pass  through  a  tammy; 
add  the  kidneys,  and  finish  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  chopped  parsley.  Cut  some 
potatoes  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  then  with  a  round  vegetable  cutter  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  remove  some  pieces;  fry  these  of  a  fine  golden  color  in  butter,  drain 
off  the  latter  and  add  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  a  little  salt,  parsley,  and  lemon  juice;  dress 
these  potatoes  in  a  circle,  filling  the  middle  with  the  kidneys  and  their  gravy. 

(1525).  VEAL  KIDNEYS  A  LA  EOEDEEEE  (Eognons  de  Veau  a  la  Eoederer). 

Mince  three  small  kidneys  after  suppressing  the  fat  and  fibrous  parts;  fry  them  in  butter  in  a 
sautoir  on  a  hot  fire,  season  and  as  soon  as  the  meats  are  seized,  pour  into  a  sautoir;  remove 
the  kidneys  with  a  skimmer,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  leaving  their  liquid  in  the  pan;  into  this 
add  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  some  champagne,  cooked  and  turned  mushrooms  (No. 
118),  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  chopped  and  blanched  parsley,  and  lemon  juice;  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  kidneys,  and  garnish  around  with  small  Milanaise  macaroni  croquettes  made  by  cooking  one 
pound  of  macaroni  in  salted  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  and  cut  into  quarter  inch  lengths; 
put  them  back  into  the  saucepan  with  grated  parmesan  and  Swiss  cheese,  half  of  each,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  a  large  piece  of  butter;  mix  well,  then  let  get  cold. 
With  this  preparation  make  croquettes,  either  cylinder-shaped  or  any  other  form;  dip  in  eggs, 
bread-crumb,  and  fry  to  a  golden  brown. 

(1526).  VEAL  KIDNEYS  WITH  MAEEOW  (Eognons  de  Veau  a  la  Moelle). 

Split  a  fine  veal  kidney  through  its  widest  part,  pare,  and  suppress  the  fat  and  fibers,  then 
season;  run  a  skewer  through  the  length,  coat  over  with  melted  butter,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and 
broil  over  a  slow  fire;  dress  and  cover  with  slices  of  blanched  beef  marrow,  pour  a  Colbert 
sauce  (No.  451)  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 


518  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1527).  VEAL  KIDNEYS  WITH  WHITE  WINE  (Rognons  de  Veau  au  Vin  Blanc). 
For  six  persons  take  three  small  fresh  veal  kidneys,  pare  off  the  fat  and  fibers  and  cut  them  up 
into  small  slices;  fry  these  with  some  butter  in  a  sautoir  or  frying  pan  and  toss  them  over  a  very 
brisk  fire;  season  and  as  soon  as  the  meats  are  seized,  remove  them  with  a  skimmer  on  a  dish,  leaving 
the  liquid  in  the  pan;  stir  into  this  one  gill  of  stock  (No.  194a),  as  much  white  wine  and  four  ounces 
of  mushroom  heads  cut  in  four,  cook  while  covered  for  five  minutes,  thicken  the  sauce  with  a 
little  butter  kneaded  in  flour,  or  else  use  some  thick  brown  sauce  (No.  414);  let  the  sauce  cook  and 
reduce  with  it  the  kidney  liquor  that  is  in  the  pan,  and  when  reduced  and  consistent,  put  back  the 
kidneys  with  some  chopped  parsley,  heat  without  boiling  and  serve.  These  kidneys  may  be  gar- 
nished with  triangular  croutons  of  bread-crumbs  fried  in  butter. 

(1528).  LEG  OR  HAUNCH  OP  VEAL,  A  LA  MIEIBEL  (Ouissot  de  Veau  a  la  Miribel). 
Bone  as  far  as  the  joint,  a  medium  sized  haunch  of  veal;  sew  it  up  oval-shaped,  and  lay  it  in 
a  braziere  lined  with  fat  pork  and  vegetables;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  194a),  let  fall  to 
a  glaze  and  moisten  again  to  half  its  heighth  with  broth  or  water,  season,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper  and  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil,  then  reduce  it  to  half,  and  set  it  in  the  oven  to  cook  slowly 
while  basting  and  turning  it  over  every  half  hour;  it  will  take  three  hours  to  cook  properly.  Dress, 
glaze  it  nicely  and  pour  into  the  dish  half  of  the  reduced  gravy  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce- 
tureen,  having  it  added  to  the  same  quantity  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  then  reduced.  Send 
to  the  table  at  the  same  time  a  dish  of  vegetables  composed  of  fried  cauliflower,  fried  egg-plant, 
fried  potatoes  and  rice  croquettes. 

(1529).  CALF'S  LIGHT  A  LA  MARINLERE  (Mou  de  Veau  a  la  Mariuiere). 
Fry  one  pound  of  small  squares  of  bacon  in  butter,  add  a  calf's  light  cut  into  two  inch 
pieces  and  marinated  for  eight  hours  previously  in  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  white  wine, 
sweet  oil,  minced  onions,  slices  of  lemon,  garlic  and  parsley  leaves.  After  the  light  is  well  fried, 
dredge  over  with  some  flour,  toss  well,  then  moisten  with  white  wine  and  stock  (No.  194a),  half  an  hour 
before  serving,  add  small  onions  fried  in  clarified  butter;  and  a  little  sugar,  and  ten  minutes  before 
sending  to  the  table,  put  in  some  mushrooms;  finish  cooking  the  whole,  dress  and  garnish  with 
croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  laid  all  around  the  stew. 

(1530).  CALF'S  LIVER  A  LA  OLERMONT  (Foie  de  Veau  a  la  Clermont). 
Cut  up  finely  one  pound  of  white  onions  and  fry  in  butter  to  have  them  a  nice  golden  color. 
Drain  this  off,  and  moisten  the  onions  with  sufficient  stock  (No.  194a)  to  allow  them  to  swim;  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire  to  cook  and  fall  to  a  glaze,  moisten  with  one  and  a  half  pints  of  espagnole  (No.  414),  re- 
duce to  half.  Cut  slices  from  a  calf's  liver  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  pare  each  one  the 
shape  of  a  large  chicken  fillet,  and  lay  them  in  a  sauteing  pan  with  clarified  butter,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fry  on  both  sides  till  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  then  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  the 
above  Clermont,  finishing  with  chopped  parsley.  Remove  at  the  first  boil,  dress  the  liver  and  pour 
the  Clermont  over. 

(1531).  CALF'S  LIVER  AND  BACON  (Foie  de  Veau  au  Petit  Sale"). 

Cut  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices  of  liver,  season  with  pepper  and  a  little  salt,  dredge  over 
with  flour,  and  fry  with  some  butter  in  a  pan.  When  the  liver  is  cooked,  dress,  pour  over  the 
butter  and  garnish  with  very  thin  slices  of  broiled  bacon. 

(1532).  CALF'S  LIVER.    ITALIAN  STYLE  (Poie  de  Veau  I  ITtalienne). 

From  a  fine  calf's  liver  cut  six  transversal  slices,  each  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  some  clarified  butter  in  a  sautoir,  and  when  hot  range  in  the  slices  of 
liver  to  cook  rather  slowly  for  five  minutes  on  one  side,  then  turn  them  over  to  cook  as 
long  on  the  other — ten  minutes  in  all — lay  them  on  a  plate,  leaving  the  butter  in  the  sautoir,  and 
glaze  them  over.  Add  to  the  butter  in  the  sautoir  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallot 
and  two  of  onions;  fry  very  slowly,  then  put  in  double  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  up 
mushrooms  and  let  cook  until  they  have  exhausted  all  their  moisture;  dilute  with  a  little  veloute 
and  reduce  for  a  few  moments,  slowly  adding  oue  gill  of  white  wine  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
essence  of  truffles  (No.  395);  take  from  the  fire,  and  replace  the  liver  leaving  it  to  heat  with- 
out boiling.  Dress  the  slices  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  finish  the  sauce  with  a  pinch  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  pour  the  whole  over  the  liver. 


VEAL.  519 

(1533).  OALPS  LIVER  WITH  FINE  HERBS-PRIED  (Foie  de  Veau  SautS  auz  Pines  Herbes). 

Cut  from  a  fine  calf's  liver  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  roll  in  flour,  then  fry  in  butter,  keeping  them  rare;  it  will  take  about  four  minutes 
for  each  side.  Add  to  the  butter  some  shallots,  mushrooms,  chives,  parsley,  and  chervil  all  finely 
chopped;  dress  the  liver,  pour  over  the  chopped  preparation  and  finish  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

(1534).  LOIN  OF  VEAL  A  L'AMBASSADE  (Longe  de  Veau  a  1'Ambassade). 
Have  a  loin  of  veal  leaving  on  the  two  ribs;  bone  it  entirely,  prick  the  flap  and  beat  it.  Remove 
the  kidneys  and  all  their  surrounding  fat,  and  lay  the  kidneys  inside  the  loin,  then  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fold  over  the  flap  so  that  it  incloses  both  kidney  and  minion  fillet;  roll  and  tie  it  with 
twelve  rows  of  string,  making  a  knot  at  each  row  while  keeping  the  meat  an  equal  oblong  shape. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  and  a  garnished 
bunch  of  parsley;  lay  the  meat  on  top  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a);  let  fall  to  a 
glaze,  moisten  again  with  a  quart  of  the  stock,  and  cover  over  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper;  set 
the  pan  in  a  slow  oven  and  keep  basting  and  moistening  several  times  until  thoroughly  cooked, 
which  will  take  about  two  hours.  Untie  the  meat,  dip  it  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  dredge  over 
with  grated  parmesan,  besprinkle  with  fresh  butter,  and  brown  it  in  a  quick  oven;  garnish 
around  with  fried  halved  tomatoes  and  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  650),  reduce  the  stock  to  half,  and 
serve  at  the  same  time  as  the  meat. 

(1535).  LOIN  OF  VEAL  A  LA  PRINTANIERE  (Longe  de  Veau  a  la  Printaniere). 
Remove  the  fat  from  the  kidney  side  of  a  loin  of  veal;  bone  it  entirely,  flatten  the  flap  after 
pricking  it  with  the  tip  of  a  knife;  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  roll  the  flap  over, 
bringing  it  on  the  kidney  side;  tie  it  into  an  oblong-shape.  Line  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork, 
a  few  sliced  onions  and  carrots,  two  split  calves'  feet,  a  knuckle  of  veal,  and  a  little  ham;  lay  the 
loin  of  veal  on  top,  and  moisten  the  whole  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a).  Set  the  saucepan  on  a 
brisk  fire,  then  let  the  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  and  get  a  fine  golden  color,  then  moisten  again  with  a 
pint  of  stock;  cover  the  meat  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  and  let 
cook  slowly  for  two  hours,  basting  and  remoistening  frequently.  Remove  the  paper  and  glaze  the 
meat;  skim  the  fat  from  the  stock,  pass  it  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  reduce  it  with  an  equal  amount 
of  brown  espagnole  sauce  (No  414).  Dress  the  loin  on  an  oval  dish;  garnish  around  with  a 
printaniere  of  carrots  and  turnips  cut  round,  cooked  and  glazed  separately,  some  braised  lettuce, 
cauliflowers,  glazed  onions,  and  string  beans. 

(1536).  LOIN  OF  VEAL  A  LA  SAINTONGE  (Longe  de  Veau  a  la  Saintonge). 
Procure  a  good  loin  of  veal;  remove  the  fat,  also  the  kidneys,  taking  a  part  of  their  fat  away; 
break  the  spine  bone  at  the  joints,  and  put  the  kidneys  back  near  the  ribs;  cover  over  with  the  flap; 
pare  the  meat  into  an  oblong-shape  nearly  the  same  dimensions  throughout,  tie  and  roast  it 
in  the  oven,  not  having  it  too  hot  after  placing  some  good  fat  on  top;  leave  it  in  for  two  hours, 
then  salt,  glaze  and  brown  to  a  fine  color.  Dress  the  meat  garnishing  around  with  green  peas 
Parisian  style  (No.  2745),  and  the  ends  with  cork-shaped  turnips,  blanched  and  cooked  in  beef 
broth  (No.  194a)  with  a  little  sugar  and  butter,  sufficiently  moistened  that  when  they  are  cooked 
they  have  fallen  to  a  glaze.  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  a  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
seasoned  with  nutmeg. 

(1537).  LOIN  OF  VEAL  WITH  GRAVY  (Longe  de  Veau  an  Jus). 

The  veal  should  be  white  and  fat.  Remove  all  fat  and  kidneys  from  a  loin,  detach  the  minion 
fillets  entirely;  separate  half  the  meat  from  the  bones  beginning  at  the  spinal  bone,  then  give  one 
cut  of  the  saw  on  each  bone  joint  remaining  against  the  sirloin;  bone  the  flat  bone  and  the  ends  of 
a  few  of  the  ribs  which  must  be  cut  off  to  give  it  a  good  appearance;  prick  the  flap  or  flank  with 
the  tip  of  a  knife  to  extract  the  air  which  swells  it  up,  and  relay  the  minion  fillets  on  the  opposite 
side  they  were  originally  taken  from,  also  a  slice  of  meat  removed  from  the  flat  bone  so  that  the 
loin  be  of  an  equat  size  throughout;  then  roll  the  flap  over  and  tie  the  meat  with  twelve  rounds  of 
string;  wrap  it  in  sheets  of  buttered  paper  and  tie  this  up  with  ten  rounds  of  string;  lay  the  loin 
on  a  baking  pan  on  top  of  a  grate,  set  one  inch  above  the  bottom;  sprinkle  with  good  fat  and  leave 
it  to  cook  in  the  oven  for  two  to  two  and  a  half  hours.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving  the  loin, 
untie  and  lay  it  on  another  baking  pan  to  leave  in  the  oven  to  become  a  fine  golden  color;  dress, 
glaze  with  a  light  glaze  and  serve  with  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  thickened  with  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413). 


520  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1538).  NECK  OP  VEAL  ATT  BLANC  (Con  de  Veau  au  Blanc). 

Have  three  pounds  of  the  neck  of  veal,  without  sinews,  cut  in  pieces  three  inches  long  by 
one  and  a  quarter  wide,  parboil,  drain,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water;  when  cool,  drain  again 
and  pare  them  into  equal  sized  pieces.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  >vith  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  unsmoked  bacon;  let  this  fry  lightly,  then  add  the  veal  and  fry  together  to 
a  fine  color;  besprinkle  with  four  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  brown  it  slightly  with  the  meat,  then 
moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a),  season  with  salt,  whole  peppers,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf  and  two  cloves;  cook  for  two  hours  before  adding  sixty  small  onions,  and 
continue  the  cooking  until  both  the  onions  and  meat  are  done;  now  transfer  the  onions  and 
meat  into  another  saucepan  with  about  thirty  medium-sized  cooked  mushrooms.  Skim  the  fat 
from  the  sauce;  reduce  and  season  it  properly,  thicken  it  with  three  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  little 
£ream,  and  finish  with  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice;  strain  through  a  tammy,  pour  it  over  the 
meat,  kept  warm  in  a  bain-marie  until  needed.  Dress  the  meat,  with  the  onions  and  mushrooms 
around  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole. 

(1539).  VEAL  PALATES  A  LA  SEVIGNE'  (Palais  de  Veau  a  la  S6vigne). 

Soak  well  six  veal  palates  for  six  hours,  then  parboil  them  in  boiling  water,  afterward 
throwing  them  into  cold  water.  Scrape  the  palates  with  the  dull  edge  of  a  knife,  carefully  remov- 
ing all  the  white  skin  from  the  top  as  well  as  the  black  one  found  underneath,  and  wash  again  in 
several  waters.  Braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  for  two  hours;  set  them  under  a  weight, 
pare  them  oval-shaped  and  cover  with  a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  dredging  the  surface  with 
chopped  truffles.  Place  the  palates  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  heat  them  on  a  moderate  fire;  dress 
in  a  circle  around  an  empty  croustade  and  fill  the  croustade  with  a  preparation  of  supreme  sauce, 
escalops  of  foies-gras,  truffles  and  mushrooms.  Serve  more  of  the  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  sep- 
arately. 

(1540).  VEAL  PALATES,  EPICUREAN  STYLE  (Palais  de  Veau  a  rEpicurienne). 
Fry  one  coffeespoonful  of  finely  chopped  blanched  shallots  in  very  hot  butter;  add  to  it  a  few 
mushroom  heads  and  braised  lamb's  noisettes  free  from  fat;  fry  together  for  a  minute,  seasoning 
with  salt  and  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Moisten  with  cream  and  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409) 
then  lay  in  the  veal  palates  prepared  as  for  a  la  Sevigne  (No.  1539)  and  cut  round-shape  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  diameter  and  let  simmer  for  five  minutes;  finish  with  a  little  butter  and  serve 
very  hot. 

(1541).  QUARTER  OF  VEAL,  SCOTCH  STYLE  (Quartier  de  Veau  a  1'Ecossaise). 
Choose  a  haunch  of  veal  from  a  very  white  calf;  pare  and  saw  off  a  piece  of  the  shine  bone 
and  trim  like  a  leg  of  mutton,  then  wrap  the  meat  up  in  several  sheets  of  paper;  lay  it  in  an 
English  cradle  spit  (Fig.  116),  and  let  cook  before  a  moderate  fire  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours;  unwrap  and  finish  cooking  until  a  fine  color;  salt  it  over,  remove  it  from  the  spit  and  pare 
the  end  bone.  Dress  the  meat  on  a  large  oval  dish,  decorate  it  with  a  paper  frill  cut  out  and  curled, 
pour  over  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  garnish  around  with  boiled  carrots,  turnips,  and  string 
beans;  serve  gravy  in  a  sauce-boat  separately. 

(1542).  RACK  OP  VEAL  A  L'ALBANI  (OarrS  de  Veau  a  1'Albani). 

Take  the  covered  ribs  of  a  rack  of  veal,  cut  the  spine  out  entirely,  bone  the  ribs  to  within  two 
and  a  half  inches  of  the  spine,  and  saw  them  off.  Pare  the  top  of  the  rack,  lard  it  with  salt 
fat  pork  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52),  then  roll  the  flap  over,  tie  and  wrap  it  in  buttered  paper;  put 
it  in  the  oven  to  roast;  a  little  before  serving  time  unwrap  the  rack,  glaze,  brown,  and  dress  it, 
garnishing  around  with  Dauphine  potatoes  (No.  2783).  Serve  a  cream  bechamel  sauce  separately 
(No.  411). 

(1543).  ROUND  BOTTOM  FRIOANDEAU  OF  VEAL  GLAZED  WITH  GRAVY  (Sous-noix  Fricandeau 

Glacee  au  Jus). 

A  fricandeau  is  to  be  prepared  either  with  the  kernel,  or  round  bottom;  under  all  circum- 
stances the  meat  must  not  be  cut  too  thick,  then  beat  it  with  a  damp  cleaver  in  order  to 
flatten  it  even  more  while  breaking  the  fibers.  Lard  the  meat  with  larding  pork  (No.  2,  Fig. 
52)  on  its  smoothest  side;  cover  the  bottom  of  a  deep  sautoir  with  fragments  of  the  pork,  sliced 
vegetables  and  onions,  and  aromatic  herbs;  lay  the  meat  on  top  of  this  slock,  baste  it  over  with 
melted  butter  or  good  dripping,  salt,  and  let  cook  on  a  moderate  fire  while  watching  carefully, 
moisten  it  by  degrees  with  stock  (No.  194a),  allowing  it  to  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze  but  without  letting 


VEAL.  521 

it  brown;  then  moisten  to  the  height  of  the  larded  side,  and  at  the  first  boil  cover  the  sautoir, 
and  push  it  into  a  slow  oven  to  finish  cooking  the  meat,  while  basting  it  frequently,  which  will 
take  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  drain  off  the  gravy  and  lay  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish;  strain 
the  gravy,  free  from  all  its  fat,  reduce  properly  and  pour  it  over  the  meat. 

(1544),  BOUND  BOTTOM  OF  VEAL,  MINCED,   SICILIAN  (Sous-noix  de  Veau  Emincg  a  la 

Sicilienne). 

Minces  are  made  with  cold  meats  cut  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  pare  them  either 
round  or  oval,  suppressing  the  fat  and  trimming  them  neatly.  Dress  either  in  a  circle  or  in  a 
straight  line,  pour  over  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  cover  over  with  another  smaller  dish,  then 
heat  the  whole  in  a  slack  oven.  The  meat  must  be  thoroughly  warmed  without  allowing  the  liquid 
to  boil;  drain  this  off  and  serve  with  a  Sicilian  sauce  (No.  542). 

(1545).  SADDLE  OF  VEAL  AND  CHOPPED  LETTUOE-LAKDED  (Belle  de  Veau  Piqued   aux 

Laitues  Hacliees). 

To  prepare  this  dish  choose  a  fine  saddle  not  too  fat;  pare  by  removing  the  skin  from 
the  large  fillet  or  loin;  shorten  the  flap  and  suppress  the  minion  fillets.  Lard  the  large  fillet  or 
loin  with  larding  pork  (No.  2,  Fig.  52)  and  lay  it  in  a  deep  baking  pan,  the  bottom  covered  with 


FIG.  330. 

pork  and  veal  fat;  besprinkle  the  saddle  plentifully  with  butter,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper 
and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half,  basting 
it  frequently  with  the  fat  from  the  pan;  should  this  fat  threaten  to  burn,  add  to  it  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good  veal  blond  (No.  423).  When  the  meat  is  of  a  fine  color  and  well  seized, 
drain,  pare  the  edges  and  dress  it  on  a  long  dish;  dissolve  the  glaze  in  the  pan  with  a  little  water 
or  stock,  let  it  boil  for  two  minutes,  then  strain;  free  it  from  fat  and  reduce  once  more  to  a  glaze. 
Surround  the  saddle  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  croustades  garnished  with  chopped  lettuce  and 
cream  (No.  2751),  pour  over  it  a  part  of  the  reduced  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  separately. 

(1546).  SHOULDER  OF  VEAL  A  LA  BOUEGUiaNOTTE  (Epaule  de  Veau  &  la  Bourguignotte). 

Bone  the  shoulder  by  splitting  it  on  the  side  of  the  plate  as  far  down  as  the  handle  without 
injuring  the  skin;  when  the  bones  are  all  removed,  cut  away  all  the  sinews  and  fat;  equalize  the 
thickness  of  the  meat;  season  it  with  salt  and  spices,  and  spread  over  it  a  layer  of  farce  prepared 
with  one  pound  of  chopped  veal,  and  one  pound  of  fat  pork,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  allspice, 
and  bits  of  garlic.  Eoll  it  to  an  even  thickness,  tie  it  with  ten  rows  of  string  making  a  separate 
knot  at  each  turn,  then  wrap  it  up  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  tie  this  well  and  roast  the 
meat  either  in  the  oven  or  on  a  cradle  spit.  Unwrap  it  twenty  minutes  before  serving  to  let  attain 
a  fine  color;  dress  and  garnish  around  with  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.  650),  serving  with  a  sauce-boat 
of  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  and  tarragon  into  which  squeeze  the  juice  of  four  lemons. 

(1547).  SLICE  OF  BOUND  OF  VEAL  "WITH  GBAVY  (Bouelle  de  Veau  au  Jus). 
The  round  is  a  piece  of  veal  cut  across  through  the  thickness  of  the  thigh,  having  it  about 
two  to  three  inches  thick;  lard  it  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52).  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  in  a  low  saucepan,  then  the  slice  of  veal,  and  fry  it  till  it  attains  a  fine  golden  color,  then 
moisten  with  a  gill  of  stock  (No.  194a)  and  the  same  quantity  of  white  wine;  add  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf,  half  a  pound  of  minced  carrots,  an  onion  with  two  cloves,  whole 
peppers,  and  salt,  set  it  in  the  oven  to  bake  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  basting  it  over 
frequently,  then  glaze  the  meat  and  strain  the  juice;  free  it  from  fat,  reduce  it  to  a  proper  degree 
and  pour  it  around  the  dressed  slice,  serving  it  very  hot. 


522  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1548).  SPINAL  MARROW  OF  VEAL  A  LA  BARNAVE  (Amourettes  de  Veau  a  la  Barnave). 

The  spinal  marrow  is  the  marrow  taken  from  the  vertebral  column  of  the  calf  and  with  which 
very  delicious  dishes  are  prepared.  Suppress  the  sinewy  skin  surrounding  them  and  soak  them  for 
three  hours  in  cold  water,  changing  it  every  hour,  cut  them  up  into  two  inch  lengths  and  lay  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  some  water,  adding  vinegar,  salt,  thyme,  pepper  corns  and  bay  leaf.  Put  this 
on  the  fire  and  let  boil  for  three  minutes.  When  cold,  drain  and  marinate  the  marrow  in  oil, 
lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  dip  each  separate  piece  into  a  fine  light  frying  batter  (No.  137), 
plunge  them  into  very  hot  fat,  drain,  salt  and  dress  on  folded  napkins  garnishing  the  top  with  a 
bunch  of  fried  parsley.  Serve  a  Barnave  sauce  (No.  431)  separately.  Spinal  marrow  prepared  as 
above  may  also  be  served  with  black  butter  (No.  565)  or  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567). 

(1549).  SPINAL  MAKKOW  OF  VEAL  A  LA  VELLEKOI  (Amourettes  de  Veau  k  la  Villeroi). 

Lay  some  very  fresh  spinal  marrow  for  one  hour  in  cold  water;  scrape  off  or  remove  the  cover- 
ing and  the  sanguineous  parts  over-spreading  the  marrow,  then  put  them  back  into  cold  water  for 
another  hour.  Drain  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover  them  with  water,  season  with  salt,  whole 
peppers,  vinegar,  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain 
and  cut  them  in  two  inch  length  slices;  season  them  with  salt  and  mignonette.  Cover  each  piece 
•with  a  little  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  lay  them  on  a  plate,  and  when  very  cold  detach  each  one  with 
a  knife;  roll  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  a  knife,  then  plunge  them 
into  very  hot  fat,  a  few  at  the  time,  until  they  assume  a  nice  golden  color.  Drain  and  arrange 
them  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  the  tops  with  fried  parsley. 

(1550).  THE  WAY  TO  PREPARE  SWEETBREADS  (Maniere  de  Preparer  Les  Kis  de  Veau). 

Sweetbread  is  a  glandulous  substance  found  below  the  calf's  throat  and  is  considered  a  most 
delicate  morsel.  Separate  the  throat  sweetbreads  from  the  hearts;  the  throat  part  is  the  largest 
of  the  two,  the  heart  is  whiter,  of  a  round  shape  and  more  delicate  and  tender  than  the  throat, 
place  them  in  cold  water  to  disgorge  for  several  hours  changing  it  each  hour  so  as  to  have  them 
very  white;  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  an  abundant  supply  of  cold  water,  set  it  on  the  fire  and 
when  the  sweetbreads  are  firm  to  the  touch  or  poached,  or  more  properly  speaking  parboiled,  then 
refresh  and  suppress  all  the  wind-pipes,  fibers  and  fatty  parts,  afterward  lay  them  under  a  very 
light  weight.  This  blanching  is  for  the  purpose  of  hardening  the  sweetbreads  so  as  to  be  able  to 
lard  them  more  easily.  Blanched  sweetbreads  are  used  for  sauteing  by  cutting  them  in  two 
through  their  thickness.  For  brochettes  they  are  cut  in  slices  and  for  garnishing  in  the  shape  of 
salpicon. 

(1551).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  BINDA  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Binda). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  sweetbreads  as  for  those  larded  and  glazed  with  gravy  (No.  1575).  Have 
some  round  two  inch  diameter  croutons  of  tongue,  and  some  of  forcemeat  the  same  size  and  shape. 
Make  a  low  croustade  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  fasten  it  to  the  center  of  a  round  dish 
and  dress  in  a  circle  around  it,  alternate  croutons  of  the  tongue  and  forcemeat;  fill  the  croustade 
with  Neapolitan  paillettes  and  dress  the  glazed  sweetbreads  on  top.  A  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  to 
be  served  separately. 

Paillettes. — A  kind  of  small  macaroni  three-thirty-seconds  of  an  inch  in  diameter  without 
any  hole  in  the  center. 

(1552).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  BUSSY  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Bussy). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  sweetbreads  exactly  as  for  a  la  Montebello  (No.  1560),  prepare  a  salpicon 
with  sweetbreads  cut  in  square  pieces,  also  some  truffles  and  mushrooms,  all  cut  in  three-sixteenths 
inch  squares,  lay  these  in  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  let  get  cold.  Cover  one  side  of  each 
sweetbread  with  this  preparation,  giving  it  a  dome-shape,  and  lay  over  the  salpicon  a  cream  force- 
meat (No.  75),  dredging  chopped  truffles  over  all;  besprinkle  with  butter  and  set  them  into  a  slack 
oven  to  heat  without  browning.  A  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  is  to  be  served  at  the  same 
time,  but  separately. 

(1553).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  COLUMBUS  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Columbus). 
Stud  and  braise  the  sweetbreads  the  same  as  for  No.  1554,  dress  them  on   small  croutons 
of  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78)  dipped  in  eggs  and  fried  in  butter;  in  the  center  lay  some  cock's- 
combs  and  kidneys  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  made  with  the  braise  stock 
from  the  sweetbreads  and  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze. 


523 

(1554).  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  OONTI  (Bis  de  Veau  a  laConti). 

Soak  well  and  blanch  six  medium  sized  sweetbreads;  stud  them  each  in  seven  places  with  truffles 
and  wrap  them  up  in  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  tie  it  on  securely,  then  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  lined 
with  more  slices  of  pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions,  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley.  Moisten 
with  one  pint  of  beef-stock  (No.  194a),  let  it  fall  to  a  glaze,  and  then  add  a  quart  more  stock;  con- 
tinue the  cooking  for  half  an  hour  longer.  Keduce  the  stock  and  glaze  the  sweetbreads,  then  dress 
in  the  center  of  the  dish,  and  lay  around  them  in  clusters  or  else  in  the  center  some  cocks' -combs, 
kidneys,  and  mushrooms.  Pour  over  the  garnishing  a  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and 
serve  in  a  sauce-boat  some  of  the  same  reduced  with  the  stock  passed  through  a  tammy,  and  finish 
with  a  piece  of  butter.  Have  a  trussed  and  glazed  crawfish  on  top  of  each  sweetbread.  Serve 
separately  a  sauce-boat  of  veloute"  sauce  reduced  with  the  braise  stock  strained  through  a  sieve  and 
incorporate  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

(1555).  SWEETBREADS  A  L'E'CAELATE  (Eis  de  Veau  a  1'Ecarlate). 

Select  eight  medium  very  white  heart  sweetbreads,  after  they  are  soaked  and  blanched,  press  them 
slightly  in  the  press  (Fig.  71),  and  lard  afterward  with  fat  salt  pork,  cook  them  in  a  pan  with  very 
little  moistening,  basting  them  frequently  with  their  own  juice,  so  as  to  glaze  them  a  fine  color. 
Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  coarse  macaroni  in  salted  water,  and  when  tender,  drain  and  refresh 
it  in  tepid  salted  water;  spread  it  out  lengthwise  on  a  towel  and  cut  it  up  into  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  lengths;  as  quickly  as  they  are  cut  set  them  upright  on  to  a  buttered  sheet  and  with  a  cornet 
filled  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.89,)  stuff  the  empty  space  to  half  itsheighth,  and  lay  small  round 
bits  of  truffle  cut  the  same  size  on  top,  then  cover  the  whole  with  a  buttered  paper,  heat  the  bottom 
of  the  sheet  lightly,  then  set  it  into  a  slow  oven  for  one  minute  to  poach  the  forcemeat;  detach  the 
pieces  from  the  pan  taking  them  up  one  by  one  and  lay  them  on  the  truffle  side  against  the  bottom 
and  sides  of  a  buttered  plain  border  mold;  fill  in  the  empty  space  of  the  mold  with  some  of  the 
same  forcemeat,  covering  over  all  with  a  buttered  paper;  poach  this  border  for  twenty-five  to  thirty 
minutes  in  a  bain-marie,  so  that  the  forcemeat  hardens  to  the  touch.  When  prepared  to  use,  un- 
mold  the  border  on  a  dish  and  fill  the  center  with  the  sweetbreads.  Have  sixteen  round  pieces  of 
unsmoked  beef  tongue,  and  sixteen  rounds  of  truffles,  all  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  by  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  heat  them  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira.  Dress  them 
in  a  ring  around  the  sweetbreads  on  the  crest  of  the  border,  alternating  the  colors;  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  with  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  serve  some  of  the  same  sauce  separately, 
reduced  with  a  puree  of  tomatoes  (No.  730),  butter,  grated  parmesan,  and  minced  mushrooms. 

(1556).  SWEETBEEADS  A  L'EUGE'NIE  (Eis  de  Veau  a  I'Eugenie). 

Prepare  and  stud  the  sweetbreads  (No.  1550),  braise  and  glaze  them  the  same  as  for  a  la  conti 
(No.  1554);  dress  them  either  in  a  circle  or  in  a  straight  row,  if  the  latter,  garnish  the  sides,  but  if 
the  former  fill  the  interior  with  a  risot  finished  at  the  last  moment  with  fresh  butter  the  braise 
stock  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  glaze.  Serve  a  bechamel  cream  sauce  (No.  411), 
separately. 

(1557).  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  LA  VALLIEEE  (Eis  de  Veau  a  la  La  Valliere). 
Prepare,  cook,  and  glaze  the  sweetbreads  the  same  as  for  those  larded  with  gravy  (No.  1575); 
dress  them  in  a  circle  filling  in  the  center  with  a  garnishing  of  small  mushroom  heads  stirred  into 
a  buttered  allemande  sauce  CNo.  407),  adding  to  it  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley;  arrange  out- 
side the  circle  twelve  small  croustades,  six  of  them  filled  with  green  peas,  and  the  six  others  with 
soubise  puree  (No.  723).  Lay  on  each  croustade  a  slice  of  glazed  truffle,  and  a  small  trussed  and 
glazed  crawfish  between  every  one. 

(1558).  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  MALTESE  (Eis  de  Veau  a  la  Maltaise). 

In  order  to  succeed  with  this  dish  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  have  two  tin  rings  for  each 
sweetbread;  one  two  inches  in  diameter  by  three-eighths  of  an  inch  high  used  for  pressing  the 
sweetbreads,  and  another  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  by  five-eighths  of  an  inch  high.  Pre- 
pare and  cook  the  sweetbreads  as  for  a  la  conti  (No.  1554);  set  them  under  a  weight  in  the  smallest 
ring  for  fifteen  minutes.  Butter  two  pieces  of  paper  slightly  larger  than  the  largest  ring,  butter 
the  inside  of  this  ring  and  lay  it  on  top  of  one  of  the  papers,  then  cover  the  paper  and  ring  with  a 
layer  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  press  down  in  the  ring  on  this  an  unmolded  sweetbread,  and 


524  THE    EPICUREAN. 

finish  filling  the  ring  with  another  layer  of  forcemeat;  smooth  the  surface  nicely  and  OP  top 
imitate  a  Maltese  cross  with  four  long  lozenges  of  red  beef  tongue,  one  and  one-eighth  inch  long; 
cut  down  the  center  and  turned  over  so  that  the  opposite  sides  come  together;  in  the  middle  of 
these  four  reversed  lozenges  place  a  small  round  of  tongue  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
decorate  between  with  little  bits  of  truffle;  lay  the  second  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  this  decora- 
tion, turn  the  buttered  side  down,  and  proceed  the  same  for  all  the  sweetbreads  and  rings.  Turn 
the  rings  over  and  range  them  on  a  level  buttered  baking  sheet  in  such  a  way  that  the  decoration 
is  underneath;  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  being  careful  that  the  force- 
meat does  not  brown.  Unmold  and  dress;  prepare  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with 
bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  into  which  incorporate  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  pour  a  part  of  it 
over  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  what  remains  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1559).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  MARSILLY  (Ris  de  Veau  k  la  Marsilly). 
Place  in  the  center  of  a  dish  a  cut  out  rice  croustade  foundation.  Choose  eight  medium-sized 
throat  sweetbreads,  blanch  and  cool  them  in  the  press  (No.  71),  lard  them  with  fine  larding  pork 
(No.  3,  Fig.  52),  and  range  in  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  saucepan  lined  with  a  braise;  season  and 
moisten  to  half  their  height  with  beef-stock  (No.  194a);  let  this  fall  very  slowly  to  a  glaze,  then 
remoisten  to  half  their  height  with  more  of  the  same  broth,  reduce  again,  and  pour  a  gill  of  Madeira 
or  Marsala  wine  over  the  sweetbreads;  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  up  twice  before  setting  the  sauce- 
pan in  a  slack  oven  to  finish  cooking  the  sweetbreads  while  basting  and  having  them  attain  a  nice 
color.  Fry  eight  small  and  pared  artichoke  bottoms;  drain  and  range  them  dome-shaped  with 
small  fresh  green  peas  cooked  English  style  (No.  2742)  thickened  with  a  well-buttered  bechamel 
(No.  409).  Dress  the  sweetbreads  on  the  rice  foundation  with  the  artichoke  bottoms  around;  send 
to  the  table  accompanied  by  a  sauce-boat  of  veloute  (No.  415),  reduced  with  the  sweetbread 
stock. 

(1560).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  MONTEBELLO  (Ris  de  Veau  k  la  Montebello). 
Blanch  until  firm  to  the  touch  some  medium-sized  sweetbreads  that  have  been  in  soak  for  a 
few  hours,  then  drain,  refresh  and  pare  by  suppressing  all  the  sinews  and  fat.  Lay  them  in  a 
sautoir  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  sliced  onions  and  carrots  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  moisten  to 
half  their  height  with  beef-stock  (No.  194a),  let  this  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  and  then  remoisten; 
cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven.  After  they  are  done,  pare  and 
set  them  in  oval  tin  rings,  two  and  a  half  by  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  half  an  inch 
high;  let  them  cool  off  in  these  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight.  Cut  up  the  parings  into  small 
three-sixteenths  inch  dice;  also  some  mushrooms  and  truffles;  fry  a  chopped  shallot  in  butter,  add 
to  it  the  mushrooms,  the  truffles  and  the  sweetbreads,  also  a  little  veloute  (No.  415),  then  season; 
when  this  preparation  is  cold,  use  it  to  cover  one  side  of  the  sweetbreads,  having  it  well  rounded 
on  the  top,  cover  over  with  a  layer  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  dredge  the  surface  with  finely 
chopped  red  tongue;  place  the  sweetbreads  on  a  buttered  baking  pan,  pour  melted  butter  over  and 
the  sweetbreads  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  minutes;  serve  a  Montebello  sauce  (No.  502)  separately. 

(1561).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  MONTPENSIER  (Ris  de  Veau  k  la  Montpensier). 

Have  six  heart  sweetbreads  of  equal  size;  soak  them  in  cold  water  and  afterward  lay  them  in  a 
saucepan  containing  cold  water  and  parboil  until  they  harden,  pare  and  let  cool  in  the  press  (Fig. 
71).  Lard  three  of  them  with  fine  salt  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52)  and  the  other  three  with  truffles  cut 
the  same  size;  braise  them  as  for  a  la  Conti  (No.  1554),  and  when  cooked  and  glazed,  strain  off  the 
stock,  free  it  from  its  fat  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze.  Dress  the  sweetbreads  around  a  rice 
croustade  garnished  with  small  quenelles  and  mushrooms  thickened  with  veloute  (No.  415)  and  be- 
tween each  sweetbread  lay  a  whole  peeled  and  glazed  truffle;  dress  on  top  of  the  garnishing  a 
pyramid  of  truffles  and  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  mushroom  heads;  glaze  the  truffles 
and  sweetbreads.  Serve  with  a  separate  tureen  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  the  sweet- 
bread stock,  passed  through  a  tammy. 

(1562).  SWEETBREADS,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Napolitaine), 
Prepare  and  cook  some  throat  sweetbreads  the  same  as  for  a  la  Montebello  (No.  1560);  lay  them 
under  a  weight  in  oval  rings,  and  when  cold  cover  one  side  of  each,  having  it  rounded  on  top,  with 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  mingled  with  a  little  half  glaze  (No.  413);  covering  this  over  with  a  layer 


VEAL.  525 

of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter. 
Dress  the  sweetbreads  and  lay  around  a  garnishing  composed  of  macaroni  cut  in  two-inch  lengths, 
a  quarter  as  much  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  shredded  finely,  and  the  same  volume  of  cooked 
mushrooms  cut  into  small  fillets;  add  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  meat 
glaze  (No.  402). 

(1563).  SWEETBREADS,  PIEDMONTESE  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Piemontaise). 
Lay  the  sweetbreads  to  cool  under  a  weight  or  in  the  press  (Fig.  71)  after  they  are  blanched; 
then  cut  them  across  through  their  thickness  into  slices,  season  and  range  these  in  a  sautoir  with 
melted  butter,  cook  them  nicely  and  moisten  with  white  wine;  reduce  and  add  a  little  veloute"  sauce 
(No.  415).  A  few  minutes  later  put  in  some  white  Piedmontese  truffles,  half  an  ounce  for  each 
sweetbread.  Dress  this  inside  a  border  of  Piedmontese  risot  (No.  739). 

(1564).  SWEETBREADS,  PORTUGUESE  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Portugaise), 

Blanch  and  dress  the  sweetbreads  as  told  in  No.  1550;  trim  them  into  quarter  inch  thick  slices 
and  saute  colorless  in  butter;  when  almost  done  finish  cooking  in  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  work 
in  a  little  fresh  butter  and  Madeira;  just  when  ready  add  as  much  Portuguese  sauce  (No.  526)  and 
let  reduce  till  this  becomes  of  a  sufficient  consistency,  then  add  some  olives  stuffed  with  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89)  containing  anchovy  butter  (No.  569).  Poach  in  the  sauce  then  dress  the  olives 
on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lay  the  sweet-breads  on  top  and  cover  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  serving  the 
remainder  apart. 

(1565).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  PRINOESSE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Princesse). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  sweetbreads  the  same  as  for  larded  and  glazed  with  gravy  (No. 
1575).  Lay  each  kernel  of  sweetbread  on  an  artichoke  bottom  cooked  in  white  stock  (No.  182), 
and  pour  over  some  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Dress  them  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  inside 
with  small  braised  veal  noisettes  and  cover  with  a  well-buttered  velout6  sauce  (No.  415);  reduced 
with  the  braise  stock. 

(1566).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  ST.  CLOUD  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  St.  Cloud). 

Prepare  and  stud  each  sweetbread  with  five  studs,  four  of  truffles  and  the  center  one  of 
tongue;  braise  and  cook  them  as  for  a  la  Conti  (No.  1554).  Dress  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  center 
with  a  puree  of  mushooms  (No.  722).  Pour  a  light  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  around,  and  send  to 
the  table  with  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 

(1567).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  ST.  LAURENT  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  St.  Laurent). 
Blanch  sufficient  sweetbreads,  then  put  them  to  cool  under  a  weight;  cut  them  up  into  quarter 
inch  thick  slices  then  into  one  inch  squares,  also  some  veal  kidneys  the  same  size  and  shape,  and 
slices  of  mushroom  heads.  Run  small  silver  skewers  (Fig.  176)  through  a  piece  of  sweetbread,  a- 
piece  of  kidney  and  mushroom;  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a 
slow  fire.  Pour  over  an  Italian  sauce  (No.  484)  with  a  little  chopped  truffle  added. 

(1568).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  THEODORA  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Theodora), 
The  sweetbreads  are  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  exactly  the  same  as  for 
Montebello  (No.  1560);  put  them  under  a  weight  in  round  rings.  Fry  a 
shallot  in  butter,  add  to  it  some  fresh  mushrooms,  unsmoked  beef  tongue, 
truffles,  fine  herb,s  all  finely  chopped,  and  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Butter 
some  silver  cases,  fill  them  half  full  with  this  preparation,  lay  the  sweet- 
breads on  top  and  set  them  in  a  slow  oven  to  cook  for  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes; when  ready  to  serve  put  on  each  one  a  half  spherical  quenelle  decorated 
with  truffles,  over  this  a  Spanish  olive  stuffed  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
89),  and  on  top  of  all  a  whole  pistachio  nut  stuck  in  the  forcemeat, 
Serve  separately  a  champagne  sauce  (No.  445)  reduced  with  the  stock  the  sweetbreads  have  been 
braised  in. 

(1569).  SWEETBREADS  ATI  OHANOELIER  (Ris  de  Veau  au  Ohancelier). 
Soak  and  blanch  the  needed  quantity  of  sweetbreads,  then  cut  them  across  in  two;  fry  thes& 
pieces  in  butter  with  a  little  fine  shallot  and  parsley,  adding  lemon -juice,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg; 
when  done  lay  them  under  a  weight  or  in  the  press  (Fig.  71);  pare  oval-shaped  when  cold.     Reduce 


526  THE: 

some  chicken  pur&j  (No.  713)  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  When  it  has  cooled  off  cover  one 
side  of  the  sweetbreads  with  it,  having  the  tops  well  rounded,  then  smooth  the  surface,  dip  in 
eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  level  the  bread-crumbs  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  fry  them  all  to  a 
fine  color.  Serve  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  separately  into  which  chopped  truffles  have  been  added. 

(1570).  SWEETBREADS  AU  MONARCH  (Kis  de  Veau  an  Monarque). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  sweetbreads  precisely  the  same  as  for  larded  and  glazed  (No.  1575): 
dress  in  a  circle  on  round  crusts  of  bread  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  by  one  quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  fried  in  butter;  lay  on  top  of  every  sweetbread  a  crown-shaped  quenelle 
two  inches  in  diameter  and  streaked  with  truffles,  on  this  set  a  crawfish;  in  the  center  pour  a 
garnishing  composed  of  a  salpicon  of  square  pieces  of  mushroom,  artichoke  bottoms,  truffles, 
and  foies-gras  all  cut  the  same  size  and  mixed  with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492);  serve  separately 
some  of  the  same  sauce. 

(1571).  SWEETBREADS,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  1'Anglaise). 

Blanch  six  medium  size  unlarded  sweetbreads;  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  garnished  with  slices  of  fat 
pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  whole  peppers;  moisten  to  three-quarters  of 
their  height  with  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  and  after  it  conies  to  a  boil  finish  cooking  in  a  moderate 
oven,  when  done,  remove  and  put  them  under  a  press  in  oval  tin  rings;  when  cold  unmold 
them  and  cut  them  crosswise  through  the  center.  Cover  one  side  of  each  sweetbread  with 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  laying  it  on  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  set  the  other  half 
belonging  to  it  on  top  and  remove  all  the  superfluous  preparation  oozing  from  the  sides. 
Beat  up  well  one -quarter  of  a  pound  of  melted  butter  with  six  egg-yolks,  dip  the  sweetbreads  into 
this,  then  roll  them  in  freshly  grated  bread-crumbs;  bread-crumb  them  twice  before  laying  them 
on  a  baking  tin,  pour  a  little  butter  over  and  cook  them  in  a  moderate  oven;  serve  a  brown  English 
sauce  separately. 

Brown  English  Sauce. — Reduce  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  meat-glaze  (No.  402)  adding 
just  before  serving  some  Worcestershire  sauce,  butter,  lemon  juice  and  fine  herbs. 

(1572).  SWEETBREAD  FRITTERS,  CREAM  SAUOE  (Beignets  de  Ris  de  Veau,  Sauce  Creme). 

Soak  and  blanch  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sweetbreads;  suppress  the  windpipes  and  fat,  and  cut 
them  in  two  across  through  their  thickness,  then  lay  them  in  a  tureen  with  finely  shredded  chives 
and  shallots,  salt,  pepper,  allspice,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  oil;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  for  one 
hour  turning  them  over  occasionally,  then  drain  them  on  a  cloth  carefully  removing  every 
vestige  of  herbs;  dip  the  pieces  into  a  frying  paste  (No.  137)  not  having  it  too  thick,  and  fry  them 
slowly  until  they  are  cooked  and  have  acquired  a  fine  color,  then  drain  and  dress  on  folded 
napkins,  garnish  the  top  with  fried  parsley.  Serve  with  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454)  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1573).  SWEETBREADS  IN  PAPERS  (Ris  de  Veau  en  Papillotes). 

Split  some  blanched,  cold  and  pressed  sweetbreads  in  two  through  their  thickness;  saute" 
them  in  butter  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  Chop  up  one  small  onion  and  one  shallot,  lay 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  melted  fat  pork  to  fry  colorless,  adding  six  ounces  of  chopped  fresb 
mushrooms;  reduce  the  moisture  of  these,  season,  and  add  six  ounces  of  cooked  ham  cut 
in  small  one-eighth  inch  dice;  heat  the  whole  well,  then  add  chopped  parsley.  Cut  heart- 
Bhaped  pieces  from  a  sheet  of  paper,  nine  inches  long  by  five  wide;  oil  and  lay  them  on  the  table: 
cover  one  side  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  or  cooked  ham,  lay  a  little  of  the  preparation  on  top, 
then  a  piece  of  sweetbread,  and  finish  with  another  layer  of  the  preparation;  fold  the  paper  three- 
quarters  around  and  pour  a  little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  through  the  opening  and  finish  folding 
60  as  to  enclose  all  hermetically;  range  these  "papillotes"  in  the  serving-dish,  place  it  in  the 
oven,  basting  over  carefully  with  a  little  sweet  oil.  They  should  be  browned,  but  not  blackened 
and  swollen  to  double  their  original  size. 

(1574).   SWEETBREADS  LARDED  AND   GLAZED  WITH  CEPES  BORDELAISE  (Ris  de  Veau 

Pique's  Glacis  aux  Cepes  Bordelaise). 

Lard  with  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52)  some  equal-sized  sweetbreads;  blanch  and  cool 
them  off  under  a  weight;  range  them  very  close  to  one  another  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  salt  pork, 
vegetables  and  minced  onions;  moisten  to  half  the  heighth  with  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  and  let  the 


VEAL.  527 

liquid  fall  to  a  glaze;  moisten  once  more  and  finish  cooking  in  a  moderate  oven,  or  else  with  hot 
fire  underneath  and  on  top  of  the  cover;  basting  the  sweetbreads  frequently  in  order  to  glaze  them 
nicely.  When  done  drain,  dress  on  a  garnishing  of  cepes  a  la  Bordelaise. 

Cepes  a  la  Bordelaise. — Saute  in  oil  some  cepes,  when  partly  done  add  some  finely  chopped 
shallots,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Serve  the  stock,  well 
reduced  and  thickened  with  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  in  a  sauce  tureen. 

(1575).  SWEETBREADS  LARDED  AND  GLAZED  WITH  GRAVY  (Ris  de  Veau  Piqued  et  Glacis 

au  Jus). 

Prepare  the  sweetbreads  as  explained  in  No.  1550;  when  blanched  and  stiffened  lard  them  in  two 
sections  as  shown  in  Fig.  332,  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Line  a 
saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  cut  up  onions  and  carrots,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf  and  some  veal  parings,  lay  the  sweet- 
breads over  and  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a);  season  with  salt  and  whole 
peppers  then  cover  with  a  buttered  paper.  Boil  up  and  finish  to  cook  in  a 
slack  oven  for  forty-five  minutes,  basting  frequently  during  the  time;  glaze  FIG.  332. 

and  let  assume  a  good  color.     Strain  the  stock  through  a  fine  sieve,  skim  off 
its  fat  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  syrup.    Dish  up  the  sweetbreads  and  pour  the 
gravy  around. 

(1576).  SWEETBREADS,  PARISIAN  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Parisienne). 
Stud  one-half  of  the  sweetbreads  with  truffles,  envelope  them  in  thin  bardes  of  fat  pork, 
and  lard  the  other  half;  braise  them  as  for  larded  and  glazed  chicken  with  gravy  (No.  1575).  Dec- 
orate a  flat  border  mold  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  fill  it  up  with  forcemeat  (No.  80)  and  poach  it 
in  a  bain-marie.  When  ready  to  serve,  invert  the  mold  on  a  dish,  unmold  and  lay  the  sweetbreads 
on  the  border,  filling  in  the  empty  space  with  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms  mixed  with  a  brown 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  lay  around  the  outside  of  the  border  some  whole  mush- 
rooms and  truffles  glazed  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  brown  sauce 
reduced  with  the  stock  and  Madeira  wine  and  the  truffle  and  mushroom  parings,  strained  through 
a  tammy. 

(1577).  SWEETBREADS  STUDDED,  SPANISH  STYLE  (Ris  de  Veau  Oloutfc  a  1'Espagnole). 

Stud  with  truffles  eight  medium  sweetbreads  previously  blanched;  then  wrap  them  up 
in  small  pieces  of  clean  white  linen  giving  them  an  oval-shape;  cook  them  in  some  well 
seasoned  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  drain,  unwrap  and  wring  the  cloths  out  in  cold  water,  then 
wrap  them  up  again  and  let  get  cold  one  beside  the  other  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight; 
unwrap  once  more  and  lay  them  in  a  baking  tin  with  some  of  their  own  stock  partly  reduced  to  a 
half-glaze;  warm  them  at  the  oven  door  while  basting.  Dress  these  sweetbreads  on  an  oblong- 
shaped  cut  out  rice  foundation,  decorate  around  the  outside  with  clusters  of  small  cooked  mush- 
room heads  and  poached  quenelles;  cover  over  with  some  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced 
with  cream  and  seasoned  with  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Serve  separately  anespagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  reduced  with  the  remainder  of  the  stock,  adding  to  it  some  stuffed  Spanish  olives 
(No.  695). 

(1578).  SWEETBREADS,  WITH  QUENELLES,  (Ris  de  Veau  aux  Quenelles). 
The  sweetbreads  are  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  a  la  Conti  (No.   1554);  when  done  range 
them  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  middle  with  small  bead-shaped  quarter  inch  quenelles;  cover 
with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  so  as  to  glaze  the  sweetbreads,  and  serve  a  Madeira  sauce  (No. 
492)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1579).  SWEETBREADS,  ZURICH  (Ris  de  Veau  Zurich). 

Lard  the  edges  of  six  heart  sweetbreads  with  fillets  of  tongue,  and  stud  the  centers  with 
truffles;  braise  and  glaze  them  the  same  as  for  a  la  Conti  (No.  1554),  dress  them  on  small  crous- 
tades  filled  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  veal  palate,  truffles,  mushrooms,  all  cut  in  quarter  inch 
squares,  and  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  the  stock  used  for  braising  the  sweetbreads 
(part  of  this  sauce  should  be  reserved  to  serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat).  Range  around  these  some 
round-shaped  quenelles  made  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  mixed  with  soubise  (No.  89)  and 
decorated  with  truffles. 


528  THi;    EPICUREAN. 

(1580).  CALVES'  TAILS  WITH  CABBAGE  (Queues  de  Veau  aux  Ohoux). 
Take  twelve  calves'  tails,  cut  the  thick  ends  into  four  pieces  two  inches  long  and  parboil  them 
with  a  pound  of  sliced  bacon;  cut  a  large  cabbage  in  four,  blanch  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  drain, 
refresh,  suppress  the  core  and  press  out  all  the  water;  tie  the  pieces  together.  Put  the  par- 
boiled tails  into  a  stock  pot,  the  bacon,  the  cabbage  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley;  moisten 
with  one  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  season  with  nutmeg,  pepper,  and  a  little  salt,  and  let 
boil  slowly  until  the  tails  are  done  and  the  stock  reduced,  then  take  all  from  the  pot,  drain, 
and  dress  the  tails  intercalated  with  the  cabbage  and  the  bacon  laid  on  top;  cover  with  an  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1581).  TENDON  OR  GRISTLE  OF  VEAL  A  LA  BAYEUX  (Tendon  de  Veau  a  la  Bayeux), 
Cut  some  tendons  three  inches  long  by  two  and  a  quarter  wide;  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  butter 
and  square  pieces  of  unsmoked  bacon,  small  onions,  dice-shaped  pieces  of  ham,  small  pear-shaped 
carrots,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  fry  slowly,  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a),  season  and  let  cook 
for  two  hours  and  a  half,  being  careful  to  remove  the  grease;  remoisten  frequently  till  the  stock 
is  reduced  to  the  third  of  a  glaze.  Dress  the  tendons,  place  the  garnishings  around,  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  meat  and  serve. 

(1582).  TENDON  OE  GEISTLE  OP  VEAL  A  LA  BIARRITZ  (Tendon  de  Veau  a  la  Biarritz). 

Pare  and  cut  the  tendon  into  pieces  measuring  three  inches  long  fry  them  in  clarified  butter, 
drain  off  the  butter  and  add  to  the  meat  some  white  wine,  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
and  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Heat  some  clarified  butter  and  add  to  it  well  cleansed  Piedmontese  rice; 
when  very  hot  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  boil  and  let  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  add  to  it  the  meats  and  leave  it  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Dress 
the  tendons  and  rice  and  surround  with  veal  kidneys,  fried  in  butter,  and  fine  herbs. 

(1583).  CALVES'  TONGUES  A  LA  FLAMANDE  (Langues  de  Veau  a  la  Flamande). 
To  Salt  the  Calves'  Tongues. — Take  out  the  pipes  from  twelve  tongues;  prick  them  all  over  with 
a  coarse  trussing  needle  and  put  them  into  a  stone  vessel  containing  sixteen  quarts.  Dissolve  a 
sufficiency  of  salt  in  ten  quarts  of  water  so  that  when  an  egg  is  dropped  in,  it  will  float  on  the  top;  add 
four  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  when  all  is  thoroughly  dissolved,  pour  it  over  the  tongues.  Set  them 
in  a  cool  place,  and  leave  them  there  for  twelve  days,  turning  them  over  every  third  one.  Drain 
and  cook  them  plainly  in  water  with  some  chopped  beef  suet,  and  when  done,  peel  off  the  skins 
and  keep  the  tongue  warm  in  a  light  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  dress  and  surround  them  with  a 
Flemish  garnishing  (No.  668),  pouring  over  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1584).  CALVES'  TONGUES  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Langues  de  Veau  a  la  Pengueux). 
On  the  center  of  a  round  dish  fasten  a  wooden  bottom  covered  with  cooked  paste  (No.  131)  and 
having  a  six  inch  high  pyramidal  support  in  the  center,  also  covered  with  paste;  brush  the  whole 


FIG.  a33. 


with  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Cook  six  or  seven  large  calves'  tongues  in  water,  selecting  those  which 
have  been  in  brine  for  twelve  days.  Roll  out  on  a  floured  table  a  thin  band  of  half  puff  paste  (No. 
146),  three  and  a  half  to  four  inches  wide;  roll  it  on  a  roller  to  unroll  on  a  baking  sheet  slightly 


VEAL.  529 

wetted  with  water,  then  with  a  cardboard  pattern  cut  from  this  band  large  pieces,  straight  on  one 
side  and  rounded  on  the  other,  one  end  being  pointed  while  the  other  is  straight,  and  on  the 
rounded  side  cut  it  into  small  sharp  points;  prick  the  surfaces,  egg  over  with  a  brush  without 
touching  with  the  hands,  and  cook  them  in  a  slow  oven  until  they  become  a  light  golden  color;  af- 
ter removing  let  get  partially  cold  under  a  very  light  weight.  Drain  the  tongues,  peel  and  keep 
them  for  ten  minutes  under  a  weight  to  flatten  lightly;  pare  and  cut  each  one  in  two  or  three  pieces 
from  top  to  bottom,  then  reconstruct  them  as  they  were  before,  and  cover  the  cut  sides  with  a 
layer  of  soubise  (No.  723),  reduced  and  thickened  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  slightly 
cool;  keep  them  their  correct  shape,  afterward  glaze  them  over  with  a  brush;  cover  the  wooden  bottom 
and  surround  the  central  support  on  the  dish  with  a  thick  bed  of  good  risot  (No.  739),  and  stick  on  top 
of  this  support  a  small  skewer  garnished  with  truffles.  Dress  the  tongues  upright  leaning  them 
against  the  rice,  lay  between  each  one  of  the  bands  of  paste  to  separate  the  tongues,  letting  them 
project  slightly  beyond.  Cover  over  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  reduced  with  truffle  parings, 
and  send  a  separate  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517),  to  the  table  at  the  same  time  as  the  tongues. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


MUTTO^T    (Mouton). 


AMERICAN  OUTS, 


i.  Head  and  Neck 


2.  Rack 


3.  Shoulder 


4.  Loin  and  Saddle 


5.  Legs 


6.  Trotter* 


7.  Breast 


8.  Tail 


FIG.  334. 

(1585).  BEEAST  OP  MUTTON  PLAIN  (Poitrine  de  Mouton  an  Naturel), 

Take  three  fine  well  covered  breasts  of  mutton;  remove  with  a  blow  of  the  knife  the  bone  part 
covering  the  tendons,  tie  up  the  breasts  and  put  them  into  a  baking  tin,  having  the  bottom  cov- 
ered with  slices  of  fat  pork,  carrots,  onions  and  a  bunch  of  garnished  parsley;  moisten  with  suffi- 
cient stock  (No.  194a)  to  allow  them  to  swim,  bring  to  a  boil  on  the  top  of  the  fire,  skim,  then  place 
in  the  oven  to  cook  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  turning  the  meats  over  during  the  time.  When  the 
bones  can  be  easily  detached  drain  off  the  breasts  and  suppress  all  the  rib  bones  leaving  the 
tendons  on;  lay  the  meats  under  a  weight  or  in  the  press  (No.  71)  to  reduce  them  to  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  and  when  cold  pare  off  the  skin  without  touching  the  fat;  trim  them  into  half  hearts, 
dip  in  melted  butter  and  stick  a  piece  of  the  bone  in  the  pointed  end;  broil  over  a  slow  fire  to  a 
fine  color,  then  dress,  glaze  and  pour  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over;  garnish  each  bone  end  with 
a  frill  (No.  10). 

(1586).  BEEAST  OP  MUTTON  STUFPED-TOMATO  ANDALOUSE  SAUCE  (Poitrine  de  Mouton 

Farcie  Sauce  Tomate  &  1'Andalouse). 

Remove  the  bony  part  of  a  breast  of  mutton  over  the  tendons  open  on  the  straight  edge  in  such 
a  way  as  to  form  a  pocket  and  fill  this  with  some  of  the  following  stuffing;  sew  it  up  and  braise 
the  meat  in  a  rnirepoix  stock  (No,  419);  when  cooked  dress  glaze  and  cover  with  part  of  the  stock 
reduced  to  the  consistency  of  half-glaze;  serve  a  tomato  Andalouse  sauce  (No.  550)  separately. 

For  the  Stuffing. — Chop  up  finely  half  a  pound  of  lean,  sinewless  pork  with  half  a  pound  of 
bacon,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  soaked  and  well  pressed  bread-crumbs.  Season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  chopped  onion  and  a  bit  of  garlic,  both  of  these  lightly  fried  in  butter  and  finish  with 
chopped  parsley  and  two  whole  eggs. 

(1587).  BEEAST,  TENDON  AND  SHOULDEE  OF  MUTTON,  NAVAEIN  (Poitrine,  Tendon  et  E'paiile 

de  Mouton  Navarin). 

Cut  into  half  inch  pieces  one  pound  of  breast,  one  pound  of  tendon  and  one  pound  of  shoulder 
of  mutton.  Lay  these  meats  in  a  vessel,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  two  cloves,  nutmeg,  thyme, 
bay  leaf  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  containing  a  clove  of  garlic;  pour  on  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of 
Madeira  wine  and  let  marinate  for  six  hours,  then  drain  off  the  meats,  wipe  dry  and  fry  them 
w'th  chopped  up  fat  pork  and  half  a  pound  of  three-quarter  inch  dice  pieces  of  blanched  lean  bacon; 
add  to  this  the  Madeira  and  aromatics  with  some  brown  sauce  (No. 414)  and  let  cook  on  a  moderate  fire 
While  skimming  off  the  fat  thoroughly.  In  the  meantime  prepare  some  turnips  cut  out  with  a 

(531) 


532 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


one-inch  vegetable  spoon,  fry  them  in  lard  and  when  they  begin  to  brown,  sprinkle  over  some  pow- 
dered sugar  and  after  they  are  of  a  fine  color,  remove  with  a  skimmer,  place  in  a  saucepan  and 
finish  cooking  in  a  little  of  the  brown  sauce  taken  from  the  stew,  and  wetting  with  some  stock  (No. 
194a).  Dress  the  stew,  range  the  turnips  around  and  pour  over  the  gravy  from  both  the  meat 
and  turnips  reduced  together  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  strained  through  a  tammy 
(No.  159). 

(1588).  HAEIOOT  OF  BREAST  OF  MUTTON  WITH  TURNIPS  (Haricot  de  Mouton  aux  Navets). 

Have  three  pounds  of  breast  of  mutton  cut  up  into  two  inches  pieces;  fry  them  in  six  ounces  of 
butter  letting  them  get  a  fine  color,  then  drain  them  through  a  colander;  trim  and  cut  the  bones, 
pare  square,  add  one  ounce  of  flour  to  the  butter  and  when  slightly  browned,  moisten  with  the 
three  pint?  of  broth,  (No.  194a)  boil,  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain  through  a  tammy.  Set  all  this 
into  a  clean  saucepan  and  add  to  it  the  well-pared  pieces  of  meat,  add  two  carrots,  two  onions,  one 
with  three  cloves  in  it,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf,  thyme  and  a  clove  of  garlic, 
salt  and  pepper;  let  boil  until  the  meat  is  well  cooked  and  the  sauce  properly  reduced.  Pare  two 
pounds  of  turnips  the  same  shape  as  pigeon's  eggs,  fry  them  in  butter  and  as  they  first 
begin  to  brown,  sprinkle  over  with  powdered  sugar,  and  when  they  have  attained  a  very  fine 
color,  put  them  into  the  stew  removing  the  fat  pieces  an  hour  before  serving  allowing  them  all  to 
cook  together  After  the  meat  is  done,  which  can  easily  be  perceived  if  the  bones  detach  easily, 
remove  the  carrots,  onions  and  parsley,  then  dress  the  meat  and  garnish  with  the  turnips;  strain 
the  sauce  and  pour  it  over;  in  case  the  sauce  be  too  thin  reduce  it  until  it  acquires  proper  con- 
sistency. 

(1589).  OARBONADE  A  LA  JUVIGNY  (Carbonade  k  la  Juvigny). 

The  piece  from  the  end  of  the  last  chop  to  the  beginning  of  the  leg  is  called 
carbonade.  The  bones  are  first  extracted  from  the  loin  and  it  is  then  pared  on  all  its  length 
and  width  and  larded  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  season,  roll 
and  tie  it  up  into  an  oblong  square  (Fig.  335).  Line  the  bottom  of  a 
saucepan  or  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  slices  of  veal,  carrots,  onions, 
bay  leaf  and  thyme;  lay  the  carbonade  over,  set  a  heavy  buttered  paper  on 
top  and  pour  in  a  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a);  let  simmer  for  two  hours  and 
a  half.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving  time,  glaze  the  carbonade  letting 
it  become  a  fine  color,  dress  it  and  garnish  around  with  small  pear- 
shaped  carrots  cooked  in  broth  (No.  194a),  small  blanched  onions  cooked 

the  same,  small  turnip  balls  blanched  and  browned  in  the  pan  with  a  little  sugar  and  finished 
cooking  in  broth,  and  celery  knobs  the  size  of  a  clove  of  garlic,  blanched  and  cooked  likewise 
in  broth.  All  these  vegetables  should  be  only  sufficiently  moistened  so  that  when  they  are  done 
the  liquid  is  reduced  to  a  glaze;  strain  the  meat  stock,  remove  its  fat  and  finish  by  reducing  it  to 
the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  and  add  Juvigny  sauce  (No.  485). 

(1590).  PLAIN  MUTTON  OUTLETS  AND  MUTTON  CHOPS  (Ootelettes  de  Mouton  Nature  et 

Ootelettes  de  Filet  Nature). 

For  plain  cutlets  use  racks  of  mutton,  having  the  meat  tender  and  well- 
matured,  suppress  the  skin  covering  the  fat,  shorten  the  rib  bones  and  divide 
into  equal-sized  cutlets  make  a  handle  to  the  cutlets  by  removing  the  fat  from 
about  one  inch  of  the  end  and  scraping  the  bone  clean,  when  nicely  pared  they 
should  each  weigh  about  four  ounces.  Salt  the  cutlets,  baste  with  oil  and  range 
them  all  on  the  same  side  on  the  broiler;  they  take  from  eight  to  ten  minutes  to 
cook.  When  done,  dress  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and 
trim  each  chop  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10). 

Mutton  Chops  are  cut  either  from  a  loin  or  half  saddle  of  a  sheep  split 
lengthwise  in  two.  These  chops  should  be  cut  rather  thick,  each  one  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  and  then  flattened  to  an  inch.  Pare  and  season  with  salt,  baste 
with  oil  and  broil  for  about  twelve  minutes,  dress  and  serve  very  hot.  FIG.  336. 

(1591).  MUTTON  CHOPS  SOYER  (Ootelettes  de  Mouton  Soyer). 

Soyer  chops  are  cut  from  the  saddle  dividing  it  into  one  and  a  half  inch  thick  slices  cut  the  full 
width  of  the  saddle;  they  should  each  weigh  twelve  ounces  after  being  pared  and  are  to  be  cooked  for 


Fio.  335. 


MUTTON. 


533 


twelve  minutes;  when  they  are  doie  they  can  be  split  through  the  center  so  that  one  chop  wiH 
answer  for  two  persons;  serve  them  very  hot  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  into  which  Worces- 


FIG.  337. 


tershire  sauce  has  been  added,  and  buttered  at  the  last  moment,  with  the  addition  of  fine  raw 
herbs  and  nonpareil  capers. 


(1592).  MUTTON  CHOPS,  TAVEKN  STYLE  (Ootelettes  de 

Mouton  a  la  Taverne), 

Cut  the  chops  from  the  saddle,  lengthwise  having 
them  an  inch  and  a  half  thick;  flatten,  pare  and  garnish 
each  one  with  a  kidney  fastened  on  with  a  skewer  thrust 
into  the  fat  part  of  the  chop  above  the  minion  fillet; 
sprinkle  with  salt,  baste  with  oil,  and  broil  until  of  a 
fine  color  on  one  side,  then  turn  over  to  finish  cooking  on  the 
other,  ten  to  twelve  minutes  in  all;  serve  very  hot  surrounding 
them  with  water-cress. 


FlQ 


(1593).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  A  LA  BOUOHERE  (Ootelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Bouchere), 

Have  a  good  fleshy  rack  of  mutton  with  fine,  tender  pink  meat;  suppress  the  superficial  skin 
Covering  the  fat,  and  cut  five  cutlets  from  each  rack;  remove  the  spinal  bone  and  round  the  tops; 
they  should  be  thick  and  pared  very  little  without  handles,  as  they  are  not  garnished  with  frills; 
salt  over  and  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  then  roll  in  fine  bread-crumbs.  Eight  or  ten  minutes 
before  serving,  range  them  on  the  broiler  all  on  the  same  side,  and  when  partially  done  and  a  fine 
color,  turn  them  over  to  finish  the  cooking;  when  they  are  finished,  dress  in  a  circle  garnishing  the 
middle  with  the  following:  Cut  four  ounces  of  gherkins  in  small  fillets  like  a  small  Julienne,  (No. 
318);  four  ounces  of  mushrooms,  and  four  ounces  of  tongue,  cut  exactly  the  same  as  the  gherkins; 
thicken  this  garnishing  with  a  brown  English  sauce  (No.  1571),  finishing  with  a  dash  of  cayenne 
pepper. 

(1594).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  A  LA  MACEDOINE  (Ootelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Mace"doine). 

Cut  off  fine  cutlets  from  a  fine  rack;  pare  them  the  same  as  if  cooked  plain  (No.  1590),  and  ten 
minutes  before  serving,  put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter;  when  they  are  done, 
drain  off  the  butter  and  replace  it  by  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  white  wine;  reduce,  then 
roll  the  cutlets  in  this  glaze  to  give  them  a  nice  gloss;  dress  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  center  with 
a  macedoine  (No.  680).  Detach  the  sauce  with  a  little  broth  and  white  wine,  and  strain  it  through 
a  tammy  over  the  cutlets. 


(1595).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  A  LA  MAEEOHALE  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Mare"chale), 

Prepare  and  trim  some  mutton  cutlets,  as  for  plain  cutlets  (No.  1590),  season  and  saute  them 
quite  rare  in  clarified  butter;  let  cool  off  under  a  weight  pressed  lightly  on  them,  then  pare  and 
cover  both  sides  of  the  cutlets  with  a  thin  layer  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  place  on  top  of  this 
another  thin  layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  bread-crumb  them  English  style  and 
range  them  on  a  baking  tin;  pour  clarified  butter  over  and  brown  in  the  oven;  remove,  drain, 
garnish  with  paper  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  them  on  a  crown-shaped  trimmed  rice  croustade,  fill  the 
center  with  some  turned  truffles  rolled  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  butter  and  serve  separ 
ately  a  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  essence  of  truffles  (No.  395). 


534  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1596).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  A  LA  NELSON  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Nelson). 
Chop  up  separately  and  thoroughly  some  cooked  ham  and  truffles.  Pare  a  few  cutlets,  season 
and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  cover  one  of  their  sides  with  the  ham  and  the  other 
with  the  truffles,  dredging  bread-crumbs  on  both  sides,  dip  them  again  in  the  eggs, 
roll  them  in  the  bread-crumbs,  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter; 
fry  over  a  very  brisk  fue;  when  cooked,  drain,  wipe,  garnish  the  handles  with  paper 
frills  (No.  10),  and  dress  them  in  a  circle.  Pour  a  little  Victoria  sauce  (No.  557) 
into  the  center  of  the  crown  and  serve  more  of  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 


(1597).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  A  LA  SAVARY  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Savary). 

Obtain  a  rack  of  mutton  of  tender  meat,  take  off  all  the  skin,  shorten  the  rib 
bones  and  cut  the  rack  into  even  thick  cutlets.  (The  cutlets  are  to  be  cut  more  or 
less  thick  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  meat.)  Suppress  the  hard  skin  covering 
the  fillets,  round  the  meat  neatly  cutting  the  tops  into  a  point,  and  remove  all  superfluous  fat. 
Make  a  handle  to  the  cutlets  by  removing  the  fat  from  about  one  inch  of  the  end  and  scraping  the 
bone  clean.  Macerate  these  cutlets  in  a  cooked  marinade  (No.  114),  drain,  wipe  dry  and  fry  them  in 
clarified  butter;  pour  off  the  fat  and  moisten  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira,  roll  the 
cutlets  in  this  to  glaze  them,  then  dress  them  in  a  circle;  garnish  the  handles  with  frills  and  fill  in 
the  center  with  a  puree  of  Jerusalem  artichokes  (No.  704).  Serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  with  lemon-juice  added  and  surround  with  one  inch  potato  balls  cooked  in  the  oven  with 
clarified  butter,  drained,  salted,  and  dressed. 

(1598).   MUTTON  OUTLETS  BREADED,  ENGLISH  SAUCE  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  Panges,  Sauce 

Anglaise). 

Season  some  well  pared  cutlets,  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  roll  in  fine  white  bread-crumbs,  and 
lay  them  on  the  broiler  to  cook  while  turning  them  over — about  eight  minutes  will  suffice — when 
done,  of  a  fine  color  on  both  sides,  dress  and  decorate  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  serve  at  the  same 
time  a  brown  English  sauce  (No.  1571)  either  separately  or  underneath  the  cutlets. 

(1599).  MUTTON  CUTLETS  BREADED  WITH  PUREE  OF  TRUFFLES  OR  WITH  PUREE  OF 
CHESTNUTS  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  Panees  a  la  Purge  de  Truffes  ou  a  la  Purge  de 
Marrons). 

Pare  several  outlets  all  of  the  same  thickness,  salt  and  dip  them  in  clarified  butter,  then  roll 
them  in  fine  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  until  they  are  cooked  and  attain  a  good  color 
then  trim  the  handle  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10),  and  dress  in  a  circle  around  a  croustade  filling  this 
with  a  puree  of  truffles  (No.  731).  Serve  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  apart. 

With  Chestnuts. — Prepare  the  cutlets  as  for  the  above  with  the  only  difference  that  they 
should  not  be  breaded  and  the  puree  of  truffles  replaced  by  a  puree  of  chestnuts  (No.  712). 

(1600).  MUTTON  OUTLETS,  RUSSIAN  STYLE  WITH  HORSERADISH  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la 

Russe  au  Raifort). 

Have  some  well  pared  cutlets;  lard  them  with  cooked  ham,  then  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with 
ilarified  butter,  fry  over  a  brisk  fire,  moistening  with  a  little  Madeira  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Pour 
some  well  reduced  veloute  (No.415)  into  a  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  some  freshly  grated  horseradish, 
thickening  with  a  few  egg-yolks,  then  put  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  stiff;  use  this 
preparation  to  cover  over  the  larded  side  of  the  cutlets;  smooth  them  nicely  with  a  knife,  and 
bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  fried  in  butter;  pour  melted  butter  over  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  then 
serve  after  having  trimmed  the  handles  with  paper  frills  and  dressed  the  cutlets  flat  on  a  well 
acidulated  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451),  with  minced  cepes  added. 

(1601).   MUTTON   OUTLETS  WITH  BRAISED  LETTUCE  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  Laitues 

Braisges). 

Pare  the  cutlets  as  indicated  for  plain  (No.  1590),  larding  them  with  medium  lardons  (No.  2, 
Fig.  52).  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir,  and  cover  it  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  slices  of  veal,  carrots, 
onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  a  few  cloves;  lay  in  the  cutlets 
and  moisten  to  half  their  height  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  then  cover  over  with  buttered 


MUTTON. 


535 


paper,  let  cook  to  reduce  in  the  oven,  being  careful  to  baste  frequently,  and  to  add  more  liquid  as 
quickly  as  it  evaporates,  they  will  take  about  two  hours.  Have  some  lettuce  blanched  and  braised 
(No.  2754);  when  done  and  well  drained,  dress  them  in  the  center  of  a  dish  placing  the  cutlets 
around  after  glazing  them  and  trimming  the  handles  with  paper  frills  (No.  10).  Strain,  remove  the  fat 
from  the  stock  and  reduce  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  white  wine;  pass  through  a  tammy 
and  pour  a  part  of  it  over  the  meat  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat  with  the  cutlets. 

(1602).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  WITH  CHICCORY,  TRUFFLES  OR  FRIED  POTATOES  (Cotelettes  de 

Mouton  a  la  Chicoree,  aux  TrufFes  ou  aux  Pommes  Frites). 

With  Chiccory.—  Dress  them  in  a  circle  when  prepared  the  same  as  for  the  marinade  (No.  1604), 
fill  the  empty  space  with  a  chiccory  garnishing  (No.  2729),  serving  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
separately. 

With  Truffles.— Prepare,  cook,  and  dress  the  cutlets  the  same  as  for  the  above;  fill  the  inside 
of  the  circle  with  finely  shredded  truffles  added  to  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  Madeira  wine. 

With  Fried  Potatoes. — After  they  are  prepared,  cooked,  dressed,  and  glazed,  fill  in  the  inside 
of  the  circle  with  half  inch  balls  of  potatoes  sauted  in  butter,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  parsley,  and 
lemon  juice. 

(1603).  MUTTON  OUTLETS  WITH  CUCUMBERS  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  Ooncombres). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  cutlets  the  same  as  with  braised  lettuce  (No.  1601);  when  done  dress  them 
crown-shaped,  and  fill  the  inside  of  the  circle  with  cucumbers  cut  the  shape  of  a  clove  of  garlic, 
cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a),  drained,  and  mingled  with  cream  bechamel  sauce  (No.  411). 

(1604).  MUTTON  CUTLETS  WITH  MARINADE  (Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Marinade). 

Select  two  racks  of  mutton  having  the  meats  tender  and  well  matured,  remove  the 
remainder  of  the  breast  leaving  the  cutlet  bones  only  four  inches  long,  also  remove  the  neck  as  far 
down  as  the  third  cutlet;  saw  off  the  spinal  bone  without  injuring  the  fillet  as  far  as  the  joints  of 
the  cutlets,  then  cut  from  each  rack  either  five,  six,  or  even  seven  cutlets  according  to  the  thickness 
of  the  meat,  each  one  when  pared  ought  to  weigh  four  ounces.  Pare  the  meat  from  the  end  of  the 
bone,  about  one  inch  deep  to  make  a  handle,  then  flatten  each  cutlet  lightly  and  suppress  the  fibrous 
skin  on  the  fat,  also  the  skin  adhering  to  the  inside  of  the  bone;  salt  over  and  dip  the  cutlets  in 
melted  butter,  and  broil  them  on  a  bright  fire,  only  turning  them  over  once  to  have  them  retain 
their  blood  and  be  juicy.  Glaze,  garnish  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10),  and  dress;  pour  a  little 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  serve  with  a  separate  marinade  sauce  (No.  496). 

(1605).  DOUBLE  BARON  OR  SADDLE,  ROASTED  (Double  Baron  ou  Belle  R6tis\ 
The  double  of  mutton  is  the  back  hip  part  with  the  leg  on  which  the  saddle  with  about  seven 
of  the  ribs  is  left  adhering  (Fig.  340).  Select  a  good  sheep  not  too  large,  but  young  and  fat,  remove 
the  skin  and  suppress  the  fat;  cut  several  incisions  on  the  fat  to  facilitate  and  equalize  the  cooking, 


'C  .    f  ' 
Jciu^- 


Doubts. 

FIG.  340. 

then  lay  it  in  a  copper  pan  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  the  meat  must  be  left  rare,  then  salt  it  over. 
Dress  and  decorate  the  leg  bone  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  pouring  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  on  the 
bottom  of  the  dish.  The  baron  and  saddle  are  to  be  cooked  the  same  way  and  served  the  same;  they 
differ  only  in  cut.  The  baron  is  taken  from  the  loin  end  as  far  as  the  first  rib  (Fig.  340).  The 
saddle  is  the  whole  hind  part  of  the  mutton  without  the  legs. 


536  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1606),  SHEEP'S  EARS  A  LA  WESTPHALIAN  (Oreilles  de  Mouton  a  la  Westpnalienne), 
Blanch  and  braise  some  sheep's  ears  after  having  thoroughly  cleansed  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock 
(No.  419);  when  cooked  put  them  in  a  vessel  with  the  stock  strained  over,  and  let  get  cold.  Cut  out 
the  inside  of  the  ears  with  a  column  tube,  then  reheat  them  in  the  braise  stock.  Dress  on  a  baking 
dish  and  fill  the  interiors  with  veal  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92),  to  which  add  chopped  truffles  and 
some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  thickened  with  egg-yolks;  dredge  over  some  bread-crumbs  and  grated 
parmesan  cheese;  sprinkle  over  a  little  melted  butter  and  place  in  the  oven  to  color  slightly.  Dress 
them  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  center  with  thin  slices  of  ham  fried  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire;  dilute  the 
glaze  in  the  pan  with  white  wine  and  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  reduce  and  pour  it  over  the  ham; 
sprinkle  chopped  parsley  over  the  whole. 

(1607).  EPIGRAMMES  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  JARDINI&RE  (Epigrammes  de  Mouton  a  la  Jardiniere), 
Have  eight  mutton  cutlets  prepared  as  for  plain  (No.  1590),  season,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread- 
crumbs, equalize  the  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter  or  if  preferred  omit  the  breading  and 
simply  saute  the  cutlets  plain.  Braise  some  breast  of  mutton  the  same  as  for  plain  (No.  1585),  then 
put  them  under  a  weight  and  when  cold  pare  them  into  half  hearts;  dip  these  in  Villeroi  sauce  (No. 
560),  and  after  this  is  cold  dip  them  in  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  immerse  them  in  plenty  of  hot 
frying  fat;  when  of  a  nice  color,  drain.  Decorate  the  top  of  a  hollow  border  mold  with  all  kinds 
of  cut  up  vegetables,  fill  the  inside  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92),  poach,  unmold  on  hot  dishes. 
Range  the  breasts  and  cutlets  alternately  in  a  circle  on  top  of  this  and  fill  the  empty  center  with  a 
jardiniere  (No.  677);  serve  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  separately  after  it  has  been  reduced  with 
the  braise  stock  which  has  been  strained  and  freed  from  fat,  and  some  mushroom  essence  (No.  392). 

(1608).  MUTTON  FILLETS  A  L'ALEXANDRE  (Filets  de  Mouton  a  1'Alexandre). 
Pare  the  mutton  fillets,  cut  them  up  into  thin  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  cover  each 
one  with  a  cooked  fine  herb  preparation  (No.  385),  seasoning  first  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  beaten 
eggs,  roll  in  fine  bread-crumbs,  giving  each  a  horseshoe -shape  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Slice  six 
mutton  kidneys,  as  many  raw  mushrooms  and  half  as  many  truffles,  fry  the  kidneys  in  butter,  add 
to  them  the  mushrooms  and  truffles,  drain  off  the  butter  and  replace  it  by  a  little  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  lemon  juice  and  fresh  butter,  pour  this  stew  into  a  dish  and  dress  the  cooked  fillets  over  in 
straight  rows,  one  overlapping  the  other. 

(1609).  FILLETS  OF  MUTTON  GRENADINS,  P6IVEADE  SAUCE  (Filets  de  Mouton  Grenadins,  Sauce 

Poivrade). 

Pare  the  small  minion  fillets;  beat  them  into  half  hearts,  season,  range  them  in  a  tureen  and 
cover  with  a  cooked  but  cold  marinade  (No.  114),  leaving  them  in  for  twenty-four  hours,  drain  off 
the  fillets,  wipe  well  and  lard  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52).  Set  them  into  a  buttered 
sautoir,  besprinkling  over  with  more  butter  and  push  them  into  a  brisk  oven  so  that  the  larding 
cooks  at  the  same  time  as  the  meat;  after  removing  drain  off  the  fat  and  moisten  with  a  little 
gravy  (No.  404),  let  this  fall  to  a  glaze  over  a  hot  fire,  then  lift  out  the  fillets  and  dress  them  in  two 
straight  rows  on  a  large  dish,  garnish  around  with  triangular  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter; 
pour  into  the  same  sautoir  a  few  spoonfuls  of  poivrade  sauce  (No.  523),  and  at  the  first  boil  pour 
the  sauce  through  a  fine  strainer,  pour  part  of  it  over  the  fillets  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1610).  NOISETTES  OF  MUTTON,  GLAZED  (Noisettes  de  Mouton  Glacis), 

Noisettes  of  fillet  of  mutton  are  cut  from  the  large  fillet  or  tenderloin  of  a  saddle,  or  else  from 
the  minion  fillet.  Cut  them  up  into  slanting  four  ounce  pieces  or  thereabouts,  beat  lightly,  then 
pare  them  round-shaped  about  two  inches  in  diameter;  after  they  are  trimmed  they  should  each 
weigh  three  ounces;  season  and  place  them  in  a  deep  vessel  with  a  little  Madeira  wine,  thyme,  and 
bay  leaf,  leaving  them  to  marinate  for  one  hour;  drain  and  wipe  them  thoroughly  dry,  then  range 
them  in  a  sautoir  with  hot  clarified  butter,  and  let  fry  on  both  sides,  turning  them  over.  Drain  off  the 
butter  and  replace  it  by  two  spoonfuls  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  the  Madeira  from  the  marinade; 
let  the  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  while  turning  the  noisettes  over,  then  take  them  out  and  pare  them  of 
equal  size.  Cover  one  side  of  each  with  a  layer  of  consistent  soubise  puree  (No.  723),  smooth  them 
dome-form,  and  range  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet;  coat  them  over  with  a  layer  of  reduced 
and  nearly  cold  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  then  push  them  into  a  slow  oven  to  glaze.  Lay 
each  separate  noisette  on  a  thin  slice  of  fried  bread  also  covered  with  soubise  and  dress  on  a  very 
hot  dish. 


MUTTOIST.  537 

<1611),  NOISETTES  OF  MUTTON,  PEOVENgAL  STYLE  (Noisettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Provengale). 

Select  large  mutton  fillets;  remove  the  fat  and  skin,  then  cut  them  up  on  the  bias  into  four- 
ounce  slices;  flatten  and  pare  them  round-shaped  (after  they  are  pared  they  should  weigh  three 
ounces  each),  then  salt  over.  Chop  up  the  parings  very  finely,  have  an  equal  quantity  of  salt  pork 
and  cut-up  ham,  each  chopped  separately  and  mixed  after,  and  a  handful  of  soaked  and  pressed 
bread-crumbs;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  With  this  preparation  make  some  small 
cakes  the  same  size  as  the  noisettes;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  in  fine  bread-crumbs;  fry  them 
in  butter  the  same  time  as  the  noisettes,  drain,  dry  and  lay  the  noisettes  on  top  of  the  forcemeat 
cakes;  glaze  them  over  and  pour  some  Provencal  sauce  (No.  529)  around  and  serve. 

(1612).  NOISETTES  OF  MUTTON  WITH  COOKED  FINE  HERBS  (Noisettes  de  Mouton  aux  Fines 

Herbes  Cuites). 

Pare  some  mutton  fillets,  remove  all  sinews  arid  fat,  then  cut  them  up  into  slices;  pare  them 
round:  fry  in  butter,  season,  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385), 
and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Dress  the  meat  on  round  slices  of  bread  cut  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  by  two  inches  across,  fried  in  butter  and  laid  on  a  dish;  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(1613).  PAUFIETTES  OF  FILLET  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  DELUSSAN  (Paupiettes  de  Filets  de 

Mouton  a  la  Dehissan). 

Cut  the  mutton  fillets  when  well  pared  in  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  slices  lengthways  of  the 
meat;  flatten  down  these  small  bands  and  season  each  with  salt  and  pepper;  cover  one  side  with 
chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62)  into  which  has  been  added  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No. 
385);  roll  them  up  cylinder-shape  and  run  them  on  a  skewer;  pour  over  some  melted  butter  and 
broil  them  over  the  fire;  dress  and  cover  over  with  a  reduced  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  to  which 
sliced  mushrooms  have  been  added;  incorporating  into  it  at  the  last  moment  some  chopped  parsley. 

(1614).  SLICES  OF  FILLET  OF  MUTTON,  MAITEE-D'HOTEL  (Tranches  de  Filets  de  Mouton  k  la 

Maitre-d'Hotel). 

Pare  well  the  minion  fillets  from  the  mutton;  cut  them  lengthwise  through  their  thickness, 
pare  and  season  with  salt,  then  bread-crumb  them  English  style  (No.  13),  and  broil  to  a  fine  color. 
Dress  these  on  a  hot  dish  and  sprinkle  over  with  either  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  or  else  a 
thickened  maitre-d'hotel  sauce  (No.  493). 

(1615).  FILLETS  OF  MUTTON  LAEDED,  WITH  GEEEK  EAVIOLES-WHOLE  (Filets  de  Mouton 
Entiers  Pique's  aux  Eavioles  a  la  Grecque). 

Raise,  pare,  and  remove  the  sinews  from  some  mutton  fillets;  lard  them  with  fine  larding  pork 
(No.  3,  Fig.  52)  and  roast  them  in  a  hot  oven;  when  done,  dress  on  a  garnishing  of  Greek  ravioles. 

Greek  Raviolis. — Chop  fine  and  pound  one  pound  of  fillet  or  loin  of  mutton,  add  to  this  a 
sheep's  brain,  cooked,  well  drained,  and  pounded,  and  two  ounces  of  rice  previously  boiled  in  water; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  add  one  ounce  of  chopped  onions  fried  in  butter,  some 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409)  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  four  raw  egg-yolks; 
taste  this  forcemeat,  to  see  whether  the  seasoning  be  correct,  then  use  it  to  make  square  ravioles 
as  described  in  No.  158,  when  poached  and  drained,  place  them  in  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  to 
simmer  for  a  few  moments  until  it  is  absorbed,  bestrewing  the  ravioles  with  grated  cheese;  pour 
over  a  thin  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  serving  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separately.. 

(1616).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  A  LA  BUETEL  (Eognons  de  Mouton  a  la  Burtel). 
Suppress  both  the  skin  and  fatty  parts  from  eight  kidneys;  separate  each  one  into  two  and  lay 
them  in  a  pan  with  melted  butter,  and  a  pinch  of  shallot;  toss  quickly  and  when  well  seized,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper;  as  fast  as  their  humidity  is  reduced  lift  them  up 
with  a  skimmer  and  lay  in  a  small  vessel.  Pour  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  into  the  pan,  let 
reduce  to  half,  then  add  as  much  melted  glaze  (No.  402);  boil  the  liquid,  and  thicken  it  at  once 
With  small  bits  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  at  the  first  boil  stir  in  the  kidneys,  and  at  the  same 
time  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  ham  cut  in  small  dice,  and  a  pinch  of  chopped  up  tarragon. 
Remove  the  stew  from  the  fire,  pour  it  into  a  dish  and  surround  with  fried  bread  croutons  glazed 
with  a  brush. 


538  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1617).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  A  LA  SOUBISE  (Rognons  de  Mouton  a  la  SouMse). 
There  is  a  certain  way  of  splitting  the  kidneys  and  running  them  on  skewers  so  that  when 
cooked  they  form  a  very  distinct  hollow  in  the  center;  for  this  it  requires  that  they  be  split  deeply 
on  the  hollow  side,  opened,  and  two  skewers  thrust  through  the  entire  thickness,  each  side  of  the 
fat  so  that  the  meats  come  together  again  while  cooking,  the  center  forming  a  pocket;  season  and 
roll  them  in  melted  butter,  broil  over  a  good  fire,  then  withdraw  the  skewers,  and  glaze  the 
kidneys  with  a  brush.  Dress  them  on  a  dish  and  fill  in  the  hollow  with  a  slightly  consistent 
soubise  puree  (No.  723),  laid  on  through  a  small  pocket  or  paper  cornet.  Serve  them  at  once;  the 
soubise  may  be  replaced  by  a  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433). 

(1618).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  ON  SKEWERS  (Rognons  de  Mouton  en  Brochettes). 
Select  fine  chocolate  colored  mutton  kidneys,  for  those  either  black  or  pale  yellow  are  of  a  poorer 
quality.     Split  them  three-quarters  through  the  round  part,  so  as  to  open  without  separating  the 
pieces;  suppress  the  light  skin  that  covers  the  surfaces,  spread  them  out,  and  stick  a  metal  skewer 


FIG.  341. 


through  their  thickness,  to  keep  them  entirely  opened;  season  with  salt,  coat  with  oil  or  melted 
butter,  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  then  broil  with  the  open  side  toward  the  fire;  five  or  six 
minutes  after  turn  them  over  and  lay  a  piece  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581),  the  size  of  a  small 
hickory  nut,  on  top  of  each,  and  after  they  are  done,  dress.  The  skewers  may  be  removed  before 
serving,  and  a  little  of  the  maitre  d'hotel  butter  laid  on  top  of  each  kidney. 

(1619).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  ON  SKEWERS,  BORDELAISE  SAUCE  (Brochettes  de  Rognons  de  Mou- 
ton a  la  Sauce  Bordelaise). 

Cut  the  kidneys  across  in  six  pieces;  have  small  inch  squares  of  bacon  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  place  an  alternate  piece  of  kidney  and  bacon  on  the  skewers,  season,  dip  in  oil,  and  roll  in 
bread-crumbs:  broil  over  a  brisk  fire,  serving  with  a  separate  bordelaise  sauce  (No.  436). 

(1620).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  ON  SKEWERS,  DEVILED  (Rognons  de  Mouton  en  Brochettes  a  la 

Diable). 

Split  the  kidneys  through  on  the  round  side,  opening  without  separating  the  parts;  spread 
open  and  thrust  a  metal  skewer  through;  season  with  salt,  and  coat  over  with  mustard  and  pre- 
pared red  pepper  (No.  168),  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  besprinkle  with  oil  and  broil,  then  dress  them  on 
a  deviled  sauce  (No.  459). 

(1621).  MUTTON  KIDNEYS  SAUTED  WITH  FLEURONS  (Rognons  de  Mouton  Sautes  aux  Fleurons). 
To  obtain  good  sauted  kidneys  it  should  be  well  understood  that  they  must  be  tossed  over  a 
brisk  fire  and  fried,  not  cooked  in  their  sauce;  split  eight  mutton  kidneys  in  two,  obtaining  sixteen, 
halves.  Put  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sauteing  pan,  and  when  hot  add  the  kidneys  laying  them 
on  their  flat  side;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  toss  them  over  a  bright  fire  until  they  are  sized, 
but  very  rare,  meaning  that  the  meats  are  browned  without  drying.  In  another  pan,  fry  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  and  when  of  a  good  color  moisten  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404), 
brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  white  wine;  boil  this  sauce  quickly,  stirring  it  for  a  few  moments  and 
when  nicely  thickened,  add  to  it  some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  lemon  juice  and  the  kidneys, 
heat  well  without  boiling,  dress  and  pour  the  sauce  over.  Garnish  with  some  fanciful  fleurons  cut 
from  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  made  as  follows:  Cut  the  paste  in  the  shape  of  minion  filets  of 
chicken;  cut  these  through  from  the  edge  half  way  across  the  width,  bring  the  two  ends  toward 
each  other  to  form  a  half  circle,  this  will  open  the  cuttings,  place  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cook  in 
a  mild  oven. 

(1622).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  BORDELAISE  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Bordelaise). 
Bone  a  leg  of  mutton  without  opening  it,  lard  the  inside  of  the  meat  with  medium  shreds  of 
raw  ham  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  fine  spices;  fill  in  the  hollow  space  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
veal  and  fat  pork  chopped  up  with  fine  herbs;  sew  up  the  opening.     Saw  the  handle  bone  off  short 


MUTTON.  539 

and  lay  the  leg  in  a  braziere  with  melted  salt  pork  and  let  fry  on  a  slow  flre  for  fifteen  minutes, 
turning  it  so  that  it  acquires  a  good  color  all  over.  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  then 
cover  the  saucepan  and  let  the  liquid  fall  slowly  to  a  glaze;  remoisten  to  about  the  heigh th  of  the 
meat  and  continue  cooking  on  a  slow  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  add  to  the  meat  a  half  pound  of 
bUnched  bacon  cut  in  half  inch  squares,  and  boil  moderately  for  an  hour  longer,  then  surround 
the  meat  with  a  garnishing  of  large  carrots  and  turnips  cut  in  three-quarter  inch  balls;  twelve 
medium  white  onions  browned  in  a  pan  with  lard,  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  two  cloves  of  garlic 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf— the  meat  and  vegetables  must  both 
be  done  at  the  same  time.  Drain  the  leg,  dress  and  range  around  the  vegetables;  strain  and  free 
the  gravy  from  fat,  thicken  it  with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1623).  LEa  OP  MUTTON  A  LA  BOURDALOUE  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Bourdaloue). 
Bone  the  leg  without  opening  it,  and  lard  the  meat  with  raw  ham,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
fine  spices  and  chopped  parsley.     Tie  up  the  leg  and  fry  it  in  butter,  then  moisten  with  red  wine 
and  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  and  add  small  half  inch  blanched  carrot  balls,  small  onions  and  a  gar- 
nished bunch  of  parsley,  having   the  moistening  to  three-quarters  the  height   of  the  leg,  season 
and  set  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  three  or  four  hours.     After  the  leg  is  cooked,  dress  it  on  a  dish, 
strain  the  stock,  free  it  of  its  fat  and  reduce  it  with  some  brown  sauce  (No.  414).     Garnish  one  side 
with  the  carrots  and  the  other  with  the  onions  and  at  both  ends  place  some  mushrooms  sauted  in 
butter  (No.  2760).     Pour  a  part  of  the  sauce  over  the  onions  and  carrots  and  serve  the  rest  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1624).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  BOUEGEOISE  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Bourgeoise). 
Bone  a  leg  of  mutton  without  opening  it,  lard  it  with  large  pieces  of  salt  pork  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  allspice  and  chopped  parsley;  cover  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  (Fig.  134)  with  slices  of 
the  same  pork,  lay  the  leg  on  top  with  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  a  little  beef  stock  (194a),  let  fall 
to  a  glaze,  then  pour  over  more  broth  and  a  gill  of  brandy,  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  carrots  and  onions  cut  in  four,  one  clove  of  garlic  and  a  few  peppers, 
moisten  with  some  more  stock  and  cook  slowly  allowing  half  an  hour  for  each  pound  of  meat.  In 
the  meanwhile  prepare  a  garnishing  of  turned  carrots  and  small  onions,  blanch  and  cook  them 
separately  till  half  done,  then  finish  cooking  in  the  leg  of  mutton  braise  strained  for  the  purpose; 
in  order  to  accomplish  this,  place  the  leg  in  another  braziere  and  strain  the  stock  over,  when  the 
meat  is  cooked  and  glazed  surround  it  with  clusters  of  the  vegetables,  reduce  the  liquid,  pour 
half  of  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve  the  other  half  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1625).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  OHIPOLATA  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Ohipolata). 
Select  an  eight  pound  leg  of  mutton,  saw  the  handle  off  two  inches  below  the  joint,  bone  the 
loin  end  and  pare  well  the  fat;  trim  and  round  the  end  around  the  loin.  Line  a  braziere  (Fig. 
134)  with  a  layer  of  carrots  and  minced  onions,  adding  the  bones  and  parings  from  the  meat,  also 
a  garnished  bouquet;  lay  in  the  meat  and  moisten  with  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  then  cover  the  braziere 
and  reduce  till  the  liquid  falls  to  a  glaze;  remoisten  to  three-quarters  its  height  with  more  broth, 
let  come  to  a  boil,  skim  and  set  it  in  the  oven  to  cook  for  three  to  three  hours  and  a  half,  being 
careful  to  baste  it  constantly  during  this  time.  Kemove  the  leg,  strain  the  stock  and  return  both 
it  and  the  leg  to  the  braziere  with  some  square  pieces  of  breast  of  pork  fried  in  butter,  mushroom 
heads,  small  onions  fried  in  butter,  roasted  chestnuts  and  fried  sausages  (No.  754)  having  their 
skin  suppressed;  let  the  whole  simmer  slowly  for  one  hour,  skim  off  the  fat,  dress  the  leg  ranging 
the  garnishings  tastefully  around;  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(1626).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  EEGLAIN  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Eeglain). 
Bone  a  leg  of  mutton  without  opening,  place  it  in  an  earthen  vessel  and  pour  over  a  cold 
cooked  marinade  (No.  114);  marinate  it  for  twelve  hours,  then  lard  the  meat  with  medium-lardons 
(No.  2,  Fig.  52)  and  lay  it  on  a  dish  to  coat  over  with  lard;  roast  it  and  when  it  has  attained 
a  fine  color,  pour  over  its  strained  marinade  and  finish  the  cooking,  keeping  it  basted  at  short  in- 
tervals. Prepare  some  slices  of  tongue  and  cover  each  one  with  a  croquette  preparation  made 
with  sheep's  brains,  minced  mushrooms,  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  chopped  parsley,  egg-yolks  and 
fresh  butter;  dust  with  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  eggs  and  fry.  Dress  and  garnish  the  leg  around  with 
the  slices  of  tongue,  and  serve  with  a  separate  marinade  sauce  (No.  496). 


540  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1627).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  ROEDERER  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Koederer). 
Prepare  and  cook  a  leg  of  mutton  on  the  spit,  reserve  carefully  the  dripping  pan  stock;  half 
an  hour  before  serving  blanch  half  a  pound  of  small  macaroni  for  ten  minutes,  drain,  and  lay  it 
in  the  dripping  pan  under  the  meat.  Prick  the  leg  with  a  trussing  needle  to  let  its  blood  fall  on 
the  macaroni.  When  the  leg  is  cooked,  drain  and  dress  on  a  vegetable  dish  layers  of  the  maca- 
roni alternated  with  grated  parmesan,  and  so  on  until  finished;  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No. 
404)  over  into  which  a  little  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  has  been  added.  Dress  the  meat,  garnish 
the  handles  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  serve  a  little  clear  gravy  separately. 

(1628).  BOILED  LEG  OF  MUTTON,  GKANVILLE  (Gigot  de  Mouton  Bouilli  k  la  Granville). 

Saw  off  short  the  end  bone  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  suppress  all  superfluous  fat,  and  weigh  it. 
plunge  it  into  a  large  soup-pot  containing  boiling,  salted  water,  cover,  and  continue  to  boil  until 
the  leg  is  cooked,  which  will  require  fifteen  minutes  for  every  pound  of  meat.  Boiled  legs  of  mut- 
ton should  always  be  cooked  rare.  Have  already  prepared  a  garnishing  of  carrot  balls, 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  blanched  and  cooked  in  beef  stock  (No.  194a);  small 
boiled  onions;  olive  shaped  potatoes,  boiled,  drained  and  then  rolled  in  a  little  fresh  butter 
with  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice,  and  cork-shaped  turnips,  blanched  and  cooked  in  beef 
stock;  form  a  handle  about  two  inches  long  by  scraping  the  end  bone  clean.  Dress  the  leg,  glaze 
the  surf  ace  and  garnish  around  with  clusters  of  the  vegetables.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  buttered 
tomatoed  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Just  when  ready  to  send  to  table,  arrange  a  paper  frill  (No. 
10)  on  the  end  bone  and  serve. 

(1629).  BOILED  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH  MASHED  TUKNIPS  AND  CAPER  SAUCE  (Gigot  de 
Mouton  Bouilli  k  la  Puree  de  Navets  et  k  la  Sauce  aux  Capres). 

With  Mashed  Turnips. — Have  a  leg  of  mutton  prepared  and  cooked  as  explained  a  la  Gran- 
ville (No.  1628).  Put  to  boil  with  the  leg  after  it  has  been  in  the  water  for  half  an  hour,  two 
pounds  of  turnips  cut  in  four;  when  done  mash  them  to  a  pulp  and  pass  through  a  sieve,  season 
with  salt,  nutmeg  and  a  little  sugar  and  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  lay  this  around  the  meat, 
serving  some  clear  gravy  separately. 

With  Caper  Sauce.—  Garnish  around  the  leg  with  boiled  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  butter 
sauce  (No.  440)  into  which  nonpareil  capers  have  been  added. 

(1630).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  MILAN  AISE-ZERNEL  (Noix  de  Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Milanaise). 
Remove  the  kernels  from  four  legs  of  mutton,  the  same  as  the  kernel  of  veal;  free  the  top  from  fat 
and  sinews  and  lard  it  with  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52);  line  a  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  set  the  ker- 
nels on  top  and  wet  with  one  pint  of  mirepoix  (No.  419);  reduce  the  liquid  to  a  mere  nothing,  then 
remoisten  to  three-quarters  of  their  heighth  adding  two  gills  of  brandy.  Cook  it  in  the  oven  until 
done,  being  careful  to  baste  frequently;  prepare  a  rice  socle,  lay  the  kernel  on  top,  glaze  and  garnish 
around  with  small  macaroni  timbales  Milanaise  (No.  2988).  Serve  the  stock  reduced  with  espag- 
nole  sauce  (No.  414)  separately. 

(1631).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  IN  PAPERS-KERNELS  (Noix  de  Gigot  de  Mouton  en  Papillotes). 

Remove  the  kernel  from  a  leg  of  mutton  the  same  as  for  a  kernel  of  veal;  pare  it  nicely,  take 
off  all  the  fat  and  lard  it  with  small  lardons  (No. 3,  Fig.  52),  then  roast  it  quite  rare,  cut  it  in  quarter 
inch  thick  slices.  Have  a  sufficiently  large  sheet  of  paper,  cut  it  into  heart-shape,  butter  over  and 
lay  a  little  finely  sliced  ham  on  top  of  one  side;  over  this  place  some  Duxelle  (No.  385)  well  reduced 
with  a  clove  of  garlic  and  chopped  parsley,  and  set  the  slices  of  mutton  on  top,  cover  the  whole  with 
more  Duxelle,  then  fold  the  paper,  crimp  the  edges  around;  before  finishing  the  crimping  pour  a 
little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  and  finish  plaiting  the  paper  to  enclose  hermetically,  lay  the  paper 
on  the  dish  intended  for  the  table,  pour  over  a  little  oil  and  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  when 
nicely  browned,  serve  separately  with  a  very  hot  Duxelle  sauce  (No.  461)  to  which  some  Madeira 
wine  has  been  added. 

(1632).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  LYONNAISE-MINCED  (EmincS  de  Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Lyonnaise). 

Pare  and  suppress  all  the  fat  from  a  cold  cooked  leg  of  mutton,  cut  it  in  slices  and  fry  these  in  a 

little  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  parsley  and  lemon  juice,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  pour 

off  the  butter  and  add  a  piece  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402).     Dress  the  meat  crown-shaped  on  a  dish. 


MUTTON.  541 

Fry  some  minced  and  blanched  onions  in  butter;  when  a  fine  golden  color,  drain  off  the  butter 
and  add  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  cream;  reduce  well  and  then  pour  it  over  the  slices, 
bestrew  chopped  parsley  over  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1633).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  ON  THE  SPIT  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Broche), 
Pick  out  a  leg  with  a  short  handle  bone,  and  very  rounded  at  its  thickest  part,  having  a  thin 
transparent  skin  and  covered  with  white  fat  near  the  tail.  Let  it  hang  as  long  as  possible  to  be 
tender.  When  it  is  required  for  use,  pare  nicely,  remove  the  aitchbone,  saw  off  the  knuckle  and 
make  a  handle  two  inches  long;  scrape  the  bone  very  white.  Lay  the  leg  on  the  spit  thrusting  the 
split  in  near  the  end  bone,  letting  it  come  out  at  the  loin  bone,  then  cover  over  with  sheets  of 
well  buttered  paper.  One  hour  and  twenty  minutes  before  serving,  lay  it  in  front  of  the  fire,  baste 
often,  when  nearly  cooked  salt  over.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  withdraw  the  spit,  dress  and  pour 
over  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404);  trim  the  end  bone  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10).  Serve  separately 
a  sauce-boatful  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

U634).  LEG  OP  MUTTON,  PAKISTAN  STYLE,  IN  THE  OVEN  (Gigot  de  Mouton  k  la  Parisienne 

au  Four). 

Saw  off  the  handle  of  the  leg  below  the  knuckle  bone;  insert  a  piece  of  garlic  near  the  handle, 
then  lay  the  meat  in  a  baking  pan:  pour  some  good  drippings  and  water  over  and  roast  it  in  the 
oven,  adding  a  little  more  water  every  time  the  fat  clarifies  in  order  to  prevent  it  burning;  when 
cooked,  dress  the  leg,  surrounding  it  with  large  olive-shaped  potatoes  cooked  with  butter  in  a 
slow  oven  and  baste  the  leg  with  the  gravy,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat.  Trim  the 
handle  (Fig.  164)  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10)  or  one  of  silver  used  for  this  purpose. 

(1635).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH  PUEEE  OF  BEANS  (Gigot  de  Mouton  k  la  Pure~e  de  Haricots). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  chopped  fat  salt  pork  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  ham,  bread-crumbs, 
two  eggs,  a  finely  shredded  shallot,  previously  fried  in  butter,  parsley,  and  a  tiny  bit  of  crushed 
garlic;  cut  some  thin  slices  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  flatten  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch,  pare  to  two 
inch  squares,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  cover  one  side  with  the  prepared 
forcemeat,  roll  them  up  and  run  a  skewer  through  each;  dip  them  into  melted  butter,  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  to  attain  a  good  color,  then  dress  them  on  a  puree  of  white 
beans  (No.  706),  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  poured  over  the  whole. 

(1636).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH  BICE  (Gigot  de  Mouton  au  Eiz). 

Bone  a  leg  of  mutton;  remove  the  aitchbone  and  the  large  bone  as  far  as  the  joint;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  pork  stuffing  as  in  No.  68,  mixing  with 
it  half  its  quantity  of  boiled  and  finely  chopped  ham,  as  much  bread-crumbs  as  ham,  an  ounce 
of  chopped  onion,  a  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped  garlic,  and  two  egg-yolks.  Sew  up  the  leg  so 
as  to  secure  the  forcemeat  enclosed  therein.  Melt  half  a  pound  of  fat  pork,  fry  the  leg  in  it,  drain 
off  the  fat,  season,  and  moisten  to  three  quarters  its  height  with  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  to 
the  liquid  two  medium  onions,  stuck  with  two  cloves,  and  four  peeled  and  quartered  tomatoes; 
allow  the  leg  to  cook  slowly  for  three  hours,  then  strain  off  the  stock,  free  it  of  its  fat  and  take 
away  a  third  part,  returning  this  to  the  leg  after  having  untied  it.  Add  to  the  other  two  parts, 
half  a  pound  of  Carolina  rice  and  let  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  then  put  in  some  butter  and  grated 
cheese,  stirring  it  in  with  a  fork.  Dress  the  leg,  glaze  it  over  and  decorate  the  handle  bone  with  a 
paper  frill  (No.  10);  garnish  around  with  the  rice,  strain  the  stock  from  the  leg  once  more,  skim 
off  its  fat,  reduce  to  half  and  serve  it  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1637).  LOIN  OF  MUTTON  EOASTED,  ON  THE  SPIT  OK  IN  THE  OVEN  (Longe  de  Mouton  Kotie 

k  la  Broche  ou  au  Four). 

Have  a  three  pound  loin  of  mutton;  bone  it  entirely  without  detaching  the  minion  fillet;  remove 
the  skin  covering  the  fat  and  roll  the  flank  over  on  itself  as  far  as  the  minion  fillet,  then  tie  it  firmly 
with  five  rounds  of  string,  making  a  knot  in  each  round,  giving  the  loin  the  shape  of  a  long  square. 
Set  it  to  roast  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven;  if  for  the  former  it  will  take  from  thirty  to  forty 
minutes,  and  a  few  more  if  for  the  latter.  When  the  loin  is  cooked  and  of  a  fine  color,  untie,  dress, 
and  glaze  it,  strain  the  gravy,  free  it  of  its  fat,  and  serve  a  part  of  it  under  the  meat  and  the  re- 
mainder separately. 


542  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1638).  LOIN  WITH  PUREE  OF  OAKKOTS  (Longe  a  la  Puree  de  Garottes), 
Suppress  part  of  the  fat  without  uncovering  the  meat  from  a  loin  of  mutton;  beat  and  flatten 
the  flap,  bone  the  loin  without  separating  the  tenderloin  from  the  fillet,  then  season  with  salt, 
mignonette  and  nutmeg;  roll  it  up  in  the  shape  of  a  muff  and  tie  it  well,  lay  the  meat  in  a  saucepan 
with  some  grated  fat  pork  and  let  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color;  drain  off  the  fat  and  moisten  with  a 
pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  and  a  gill  of  brandy,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme 
and  bay  leaf;  cover  over  with  a  strong  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  when  it 
comes  to  a  boil  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  until  thoroughly  cooked,  then  untie,  glaze  and  dress 
on  a  puree  of  carrots  (No.  709). 

(1639),  NECK  OP  MUTTON  JUGGED  AND  MAKINATED,  THICKENED  WITH  BLOOD  (Collet 

de  Mouton  Civet  Marinade  Lie  au  Sang). 

Bone  a  neck  of  mutton,  remove  all  the  sinews  and  fat  and  then  cut  it  up  into  one  and  a  quarter 
inch  square  pieces;  lay  them  in  a  vessel  to  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  sprigs  of  parsley,  minced 
onions,  oil,  a  little  vinegar,  bay  leaf  and  thyme;  let  marinate  for  two  hours,  then  drain  and  wipe  off  the 
pieces.  Heat  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  meat  and  fry  them  well,  dredge  in 
two  spoonfuls  of  flour  and  moisten  with  one  pint  of  red  or  white  wine  and  stock  (No.l94a)  in  a  way 
that  the  meat  is  covered;  add  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  and  leave  to  cook  for  an  hour  and  a 
half,  putting  in  half  an  hour  before  serving,  some  small  glazed  white  onions  and  cooked  mush- 
rooms. The  meat  being  now  well  done  and  properly  seasoned,  take  out  the  parsley  and  thicken  the 
sauce  either  with  some  pig's  or  chicken's  blood,  then  serve. 

(1640).  SCOTCH  HAGGIS  (Panse  Oaillette), 

In  a  quart  of  water  boil  one  pound  of  calf's  liver  until  throughly  done;  chop  it  up  finely  with 
one  pound  of  beef  suet,  free  of  skin  and  fibres,  one  pound  of  lean  beef  from  the  rump,  one  pound  of 
onions  and  add  an  ounce  of  salt,  an  ounce  of  ground  pepper,  one  pound  of  oatmeal  and  the  water 
the  liver  was  boiled  in.  With  this  preparation  fill  a  well-cleaned  sheep's  paunch,  sew  it  up  with 
strong  thread  and  wrap  it  in  a  buttered  cloth;  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  and  let  cook  gently  for 
four  hours;  prick  it  several  times  while  cooking  with  a  trussing  needle;  drain,  unwrap  a  few 
moments  later  and  turn  it  over  on  a  hot  dish.  Serve  at  the  same  time  cakes  made  with  three 
pounds  of  oatmeal,  one  pound  of  wheat  flour,  an  ounce  of  lard  and  salt.  These  cakes  are  eight  inches 
in  diameter  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven. 

(1641).  MUTTON  PILAU,  FRENCH  STYLE  (Pilau  de  Mouton  a  la  Franpaise). 
Remove  the  fat  and  bones  from  the  thick  end  of  a  loin  of  mutton;  divide  the  meats  into  regu- 
lar one  and  a  half  inch  pieces  and  fry  them  in  butter  for  ten  minutes;  add  sliced  carrots  and 
onions,    mushroom    peelings   and  salt;   moisten  to  three-quarters  of  the 
height    with  mutton  broth  made  with  the  bones  and  trimmings;  reduce 
the  moisture  slowly  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  and  reduce  once  more;  re- 
moisten  for  the  third  time  to  the  full  height    and  continue  to  boil  slowly 
until  the  meats  are  very  nearly  done,  now  lift  them  out  one  by  one,  pare 
nicely,  and  place  them  in  a  charlotte  mold  or  a  special  tinned  copper 
saucepan,  provided  with  a  hermetically  fitted  lid   (Fig.  34a),  strain  the 
FIG.  342.  liquid  over  the  meats,  letting  it  reach  slightly  above  their  height    and 

add  three  spoonfuls  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  atablespoonful  of  powdered 

sweet  Spanish  peppers  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Boil,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  well-picked  and 
washed  Carolina  rice,  dried  for  an  hour  on  a  sieve;  close  the  saucepan  hermetically  and  set  it  in 
the  oven  to  cook  the  contents  for  twenty  minutes  without  touching  it — the  rice  should  be  kept  quite 
whole.  Serve  this  stew  in  a  tureen  or  vegetable  dish  or  else  in  the  saucepan  itself. 

(1642).  QUARTER  OP  MUTTON  WITH  GASTRONOME  POTATOES  (Quartier  de  Mouton  aux 

Pommes  Gastronome), 

Suppress  and  trim  the  end  bone  of  the  leg  by  sawing  it  off  two  inches  from  the  shank  bone;  cut 
the  meat  away  evenly  two  inches  deep,  and  scrape  the  bone  free  from  meat.  Bone  the  spine  as  far 
as  the  beginning  of  the  ribs  and  saw  it  through  its  whole  length;  roll  the  flap  over  and  tie  it  down; 
put  the  quarter  on  the  spit,  passing  the  bar  alongside  the  handle,  letting  it  come  out  at  the  loin 
bone,  and  follow  along  the  minion  fillet;  maintain  the  meat  in  position  with  skewers,  equalize  the 
weight  well,  so  that  the  spit  turns  evenly  and  fasten  the  handles  firmly.  Cover  the  quarter  over 


MUTTON.  543 

with  a  buttered  paper,  and  one  hour  and  a  quarter  before  serving,  put  the  spit  in  front  of  the  fire; 
fifteen  minutes  before  dinner,  unwrap  and  let  it  brown  nicely;  withdraw  it  from  the  spit,  glaze, 
dress  and  garnish  around  with  gastronome  potatoes  (No.  2789),  and  trim  the  end  bone  with  a  fluted 
paper  frill  (No.  10);  pour  over  a  rather  thin  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  serve. 

(1643),  EAOK  OF  MUTTON  WITH  SMALL  EOOTS  (Carre"  de  Mouton  aux  Petites  Eacines), 
Have  two  racks  of  six  ribs  each  and  five  inches  wide;  beginning  at  the  fillet,  bone  the  loin  on 

the  spine  end,  and  saw  through  the  spinal  bone,  pare  the 

racks  and  lard  it  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  then 

place  the  two  racks  in  a  sautoir  containing  slices  of  fat  pork, 

carrots,  onions,  cloves,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No. 

123),  moisten  with  a  pint  of  water,  reduce  entirely  and  re- 
moisten  to  three-quarters  of  its  heighth  with  beef  stock  (No. 

194a);  let  cook  for  one  hour,  basting  frequently  in  such  a  FlG 

way  that  they  become  both  cooked  and  glazed  at  the  same 

time.     Dress  the  racks  on  a  garnishing  of  small  roots  cut  in  balls,  or  else  on  a  garnishing  of  cream 

chiccory  puree  (No.  729). 

(1644).  SADDLE  OP  MUTTON,  DUCHESS  STYLE  (Selle  de  Mouton,  a  la  Duchesse). 
Pare  and  shorter  the  rib  bones  above  the  flaps;  cut  these  off  straight  and  with  the  tip  of  a 
knife,  separate  the  rings  of  the  spinal  bones  at  equal  distances  apart;  tie  it  firmly  and  lay  it  on  a  spit 
to  cook  for  one  hour  to  one  hour  and  a  quarter  according  to  its  size;  baste  frequently  while  cook- 
ing, untie,  salt,  brown  and  glaze  the  meat.  Dress  and  garnish  around  with  duchess  potatoes  (No. 
2785)  and  the  ends  with  spinach  rissoles  prepared  as  explained  (No.  161),  filling  them  with  spinach 
(No.  2820).  A  separate  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  is  to  be  served  at  the  same  time. 

(1645),  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON,  GEEMAN  STYLE  (Selle  de  Mouton  a  1'Allemande). 
Braise  a  saddle  exactly  as  explained  for  the  saddle  with  glazed  roots  (No.  1649).  Half  an  hour 
before  serving,  drain  and  cover  the  surface  with  a  lamb  forcemeat  (No.  92),  and  raw  fine 
herbs  that  have  been  mingled  with  some  allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  Finish  cooking  in  a  moderate 
oven  and  when  done,  glaze  and  dress  the  meat  on  an  oval  dish,  garnishing  around  with  carrots 
and  green  peas  sauted  together. 

(1646).  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON.  PIEDMONTESE  STYLE  (Selle  de  Mouton  a  la  Pie"montaise). 

Have  a  good  saddle  of  mutton,  hang  it  in  a  cool  place  for  eight  days  to  have  it  tender;  pare 
the  two  fillets,  suppress  all  the  fat  and  skin  adhering  to  the  meat  so  as  to  be  able  to  lard  it 
with  larding  pork,  then  roll  the  flanks  under.  Tie  up  the  saddle,  lay  it  in  an  English  cradle  spit 
(Fig.  344),  after  it  has  been  wrapped  in  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  roast  in  front  of  a  moderate  fire  for 
an  hour  and  a  quarter,  basting  it  frequently  during  the  time;  remove  the  paper  to  let  attain  a  good 
color,  then  untie  it  on  a  baking  pan,  detach  the  two  fillets,  leaving  on  some  of  the  fat;  cut  them 
up  slanting  and  replace  them  from  whence  they  were  taken.  In  the  meantime  prepare  a  Piedmontese 
risot  (No.  739),  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  dress  the  saddle  on  a  releve  dish  with  the  risot;  be- 
sprinkle over  with  a  few  handfnls  of  chopped  white  Piedmontese  truffles,  glaze  it  over  and  send 
to  the  table  accompanied  by  a  sauce-boat  of  thickened  gravy  (No.  405). 

(1647).  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON,  PEINTANIEEE  (Selle  de  Mouton  Printaniere). 
Prepare  and  braise  a  saddle  the  same  as  for  the  one  with  glazed  roots  (No.  1649),  half  an  hour 
before  serving,  glaze  the  surface  of  the  meat,  strain  the  stock  and  reduce  with  Madeira  sauce  (No. 
492).  Dress  the  saddle  on  a  long  dish  with  a  macedoine  garnishing  (No.  680)  around  it  alter- 
nating the  colors.  Pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  under  the  saddle;  glaze  it  properly  and  serve  the 
remainder  of  the  sauce-boat  apart. 

(1648).  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON  EOASTED  ON  THE  SPIT  (Selle  de  Mouton  Eotie  a  la  Broche). 
The  saddle  is  the  whole  loin  and  first  rib;  cut  off  the  two  legs  below  the  tail  in  a  round-shape,  direct- 
ing the  knife  toward  the  flanks  (Fig,  340).  Carefully  remove  the  fat  both  on  the  top  and  the  under 
toward  the  loin  end,  and  part  of  the  kidney  fat.     Roll  the  flanks  of  the  meat  over  on  themselves. 


544  THE    EPICUREAN. 

make  incisions  in  the  fat  on  the  top  of  the  saddle,  more  or  less  deep  according  to  its  thickness,  and 
keep  the  saddle  in  position  with  four  or  five  rounds  of  string.  Place  the  saddle  on  the  spit,  hold  it 
in  place  with  skewers  run  through  the  flanks  of  the  meat  and  the  holes  in  the  spit;  thrust  a 
fork  into  the  meat  of  the  sirloin  near  the  bone,  and  place  on  the  top  a  long  skewer,  tying  it  firmly 


FIG.  344. 

at  the  two  ends.  Cover  the  meat  with  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  tie  them  on,  and  one  hour 
and  a  quarter  before  serving  roast  the  saddle  before  a  good,  clear  and  well  regulated  fire. 
Fifteen  minutes  before  serving,  unwrap,  glaze  over  and  let  it  acquire  a  fine  color;  dress  it  on 
a  very  hot  long  dish,  pour  over  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce- 
boatful  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  half  of  each. 

(1649).  SADDLE  OF  MUTTON  WITH  GLAZED  ROOTS-BRAISED  (Selle  de   Mouton  Braised  aux 

Eacines  Glacees). 

Cut  the  loin  parts  beginning  at  the  first  rib;  cut  off  the  two  legs  below  the  tail,  in  a  round 
direction  going  toward  the  flank,  remove  the  thin  skin  covering  the  fat,  and  roll  the  flank  over, 
keeping  it  in  position  with  six  rounds  of  string,  tying  a  knot  at  each  round.  Place  the  meat  in  a 
braziere  having  the  grater  or  leaf  covered  with  sliced  pork,  moisten  with  two  quarts  of  stock  (No. 
194a)  adding  half  a  pound  of  grated  fat  pork,  two  carrots,  two  onions,  two  bunches  of  parsley  gar- 
nished with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  one  gill  of  brandy;  three  hours  before  serving  let  it  come  to  a 
boil  on  a  brisk  fire,  baste  the  meat  covered  with  a  heavy  and  strongly  buttered  paper,  then  set  it  in 
the  oven  being  careful  to  watch  that  it  simmers  slowly  until  it  is  cooked;  ten  minutes  before  serving 
drain  it  on  a  baking  pan,  untie  carefully,  coat  it  over  with  glaze,  and  glaze  it  in  the  oven. 
Dress  the  saddle,  glaze  it  afresh  and  group  around  clusters  of  glazed  new  carrots,  glazed  onions 
and  celery  root.  Strain  the  stock,  remove  the  fat  and  reduce  with  brown  sauce  (No.  413)  and 
Madeira,  this  sauce  to  be  served  separately. 

a 650).  SADDLE  OK  BARON— IN  THE  OVEN— WITH  MASHED  POTATOES  (Selle  ou  Baron    au 

Pour    &  la  Pure~e  de  Pommes). 

Prepare  a  saddle  or  baron  of  mutton  the  same  as  for  No.  1648;  after  it  has  been  pared  and 
tied,  wrap  it  up  and  lay  it  in  a  deep  baking  pan  coated  over  with  fat;  add  a  little  water,  then  put 
it  in  the  oven  to  cook  for  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  unwrap  fifteen  minutes  before  serving; 


FIG.  345. 

glaze,  color  nicely,  then  dress  it  on  a  hot  long  dish;  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over  and  serve 
at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  clear  gravy  reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  also  a  vegetable  dish  full  of 
mashed  potatoes  (No.  2798),  or  else  olive-shaped  potatoes  cooked  in  butter. 

(1C51),  SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON,  MARINATED  WITH  CREAM   SAUCE  (Epaule  de  Moutou 

Marine'e  Sauce  k  la  Creme). 

Bone  the  shoulder  as  far  as  half  way  down  the  shank  bone;  lard  the  inside  of  the  meat  with 
small  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52),  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  set  it  into  a  vessel  and  pour 
over  a  cooked  and  cold  marinade  (No.  114),  leaving  it  in  for  twelve  hours.  Line  a  saucepan 
with  bards  of  fat  pork  and  sliced  carrots  and  onions;  roll  and  tie  the  shoulder  and  lay  it  on  top; 
moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  and  when  reduced  to  a  glaze,  remoisten  and  cook  the 


MUTTON.  545 

meat  to  a  fine  color  in  the  oven  for  three  hours  and  a  half;  remove  the  shoulder,  skim  the  fat 
from  the  stock,  add  one  pint  of  cream  to  the  stock,  and  let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes;  strain 
through  a  sieve  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a  good  sauce,  adding  to  it  a  very  little  bread- 
crumbs; serve  this  at  the  same  time  as  the  shoulder. 

(1652).  SHOULDER  OP  MUTTON  WITH  POTATOES  (Epaule  de  Mouton  aux  Pommes  de  Terre). 
Bone  two  shoulders  of  mutton  leaving  on  the  handles  only;  suppress  the  sinews  and  skin  from 
the  inside  meats,  season  and  roll  up  lengthwise,  sewing  them  well;  put  them  into  a  small  roasting- 
pan  lined  with  fragments  of  salt  pork,  and  pour  melted  butter  over,  and  cook  them  till  three- 
quarters  done  in  a  moderate  oven,  turning  them  over  and  adding  a  little  water,  should  the  fat 
threaten  to  burn.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  season  with  salt.  Cut  into  medium  slices  some 
raw  peeled  potatoes;  mince  three  or  four  white  onions,  and  fry  them  with  butter  in  a  sautoir  over 
a  slow  fire;  when  they  begin  to  brown  add  the  potatoes,  season  and  fry  together  for  seven  or  eight 
minutes.  Kemove  the  meat  to  lay  it  on  a  long  earthen  dish  capable  of  going  in  the  oven,  set  the 
potatoes  around,  aud  baste  them,  also  the  meat  with  the  strained  fat  from  the  pan;  let  the 
shoulders  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes  longer,  then  dress  and  garnish  the 
handles  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  lay  the  potatoes  around  them. 

(1653).  SHOULDEE  OF  MUTTON  WITH  EIOE  dpaule  de  Mouton  au  Eiz). 
Cut  into  small  two  inch  squares  a  shoulder  of  young  mutton;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  hot 
butter,  and  let  fry  on  a  brisk  fire  until  they  take  a  color:  season,  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw 
ham  cut  in  dice,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  one  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme  and  a  clove 
of  garlic.  Fry  all  together  fcr  a  few  moments,  then  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  stock  (No. 
194a),  and  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  when  the  liquid  has  boiled  for  five  minutes 
remove  the  saucepan  on  a  more  moderate  fire,  and  when  the  meats  are  partially  or  three-quarters 
done,  put  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  rice  corresponding  to  the  volume  of  the  third  of  the  liquid,-  cook, 
this  rice  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  set  the  saucepan  into  a  slow  oven  to  finish  cooking  both  rice  and 
meat.  Pour  the  stew  into  a  vegetable  dish  and  serve. 

(1654).  SHOULDEE  OF  MUTTON  WITH  TUENIPS  (E'paule  de  Mouton  aux  Navets). 
Bone  a  shoulder  of  mutton  keeping  the  shank  bone  on;  remove  all  sinews  from  the  inside  meats 
as  well  as  the  fat,  and  lard  with  medium  lardons  (No.  2, Fig.  52);  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
then  roll  it  up  and  tie.  Put  some  clarified  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  the  shoulder,  fry  it  to  a  fine 
color,  then  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  or  water,  adding  some  medium-sized  carrots  cut  in  four,  and 
two  medium  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  let  sim- 
mer for  two  hours.  Withdraw  the  carrots,  onions,  pud  parsley,  and  replace  them  by  some  turnips 
pared  into  olive  or  clove  of  garlic  shape,  and  fried  in  butter  with  a  little  sugar;  let  the  whole  cook 
slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  making  three  and  a  half  hours  in  all,  skim  oif  the  fat,  season  to  taste, 
and  dress  the  shoulder  with  the  turnips  around,  then  reduce  the  stock,  strain,  pour  part  of  it  over 
the  meat  and  serve  what  remains  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1655).  SHEEP'S  TAILS  WITH  OLIVES  (Queues  de  Mouton  anx  Olives). 

Suppress  the  thin  ends  of  eight  tails  previously  parboiled;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half 
it  pound  of  lard,  two  onions  and  a  half  minced  carrot;  fry  the  whole  together,  seasoning  well,  and 
when  they  are  a  nice  color,  dredge  over  with  two  ounces  of  flour;  moisten  with  hot  stock  (No.  194a) 
and  white  wine.  Boil  the  liquid  for  ten  minutes,  then  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  range  or  else  set 
it  in  the  oven  until  the  tails  are  cooked;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  sieve,  skim  the  fat  off  carefully, 
and  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  white  wine;  reduce  until  properly  thickened.  Pare  the  tails, 
lay  them  in  the  sauce  to  heat  and  add  some  stoned  Spanish  olives;  a  few  minutes  later,  serve  on  a 
very  hot  dish  and  surround  with  the  garnishing  of  olives,  puree  of  potatoes  (No.  725)  or  risot  (No.  739). 

(1656).  MUTTON  TENDONS  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Tendrons  de  Mouton  aux  Champignons). 

Cut  the  tendons  from  the  end  of  the  breast;  braise,  then  lay  them  under  a  weight,  and  when 
cold  cut  them  up  into  escalops,  and  dip  in  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  fry  in  clarified  butter;  dress 
crown-shaped  with  stewed  mushrooms  and  cream  in  the  middle. 


546  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1657).  SHEEP'S  TONGUES,  EOAELATE  WITH  SPINACH  (Langues  de  Mouton  E'carlate  aux 

Epinards). 

Have  several  sheep's  tongues;  prick  them  with  a  trussing  needle,  and  rub  over  with  a 
little  powdered  saltpetre;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  until  the  following  day;  then  prepare  a  brine 
of  salt  water,  stir  it  to  dissolve  the  salt,  having  enough  of  it  to  enable  a  potato  to  float  on  the  sur- 
face. L»y  the  tongues  in  an  earthen  crock,  pour  the  salted  water  over,  and  a  few  days  after  when 
sufficiently  red,  soak  them  for  twelve  hours,  and  then  blanch  in  plenty  of  water.  Braise  the 
tongues  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  moistened  with  white  wine,  and  let  boil;  when  cooked  set 
them  under  a  weight,  pare  and  keep  warm;  dress  and  garnish  with  cooked  spinach  (No.  2820). 
Serve  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  apart. 

(1658),  SHEEP'S  TONGUES,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE  (Langues  de  Mouton  a  la  Napolitaine), 
Blanch  and  then  braise  the  tongues  for  two  hours  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  with  white  wine; 
when  cooked  pull  off  the  white  skin  that  covers  them  and  lay  them  under  a  weight.  Split  the 
tongues  lengthwise  in  two,  cover  the  flat  side  with  some  Duxelle  (No.  385),  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs 
and  fry;  dress  in  a  circle  filling  in  the  center  with  some  Neapolitan  macaroni  (No.  2960),  and  serve 
with  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

0659).  SHEEP'S  TEOTTEES  A  LA  POULETTE  (Pieds  de  Mouton  a  la  Poulette). 
Prepare  and  cook  them  as  for  the  vinaigrette  (No.  1660);  then  drain.  Put  some  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  add  the  trotters  and  some  turned 
or  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118)  previously  cooked.  Boil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
thicken  with  egg-yolks  diluted  in  cream,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  fresh  butter, 
lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(1660).  SHEEP'S  TEOTTEES  A  LA  VINAIGEETTE  (Pieds  de  Mouton  a  la  Vinaigrette). 
Should  they  have  to  be  prepared  at  home  they  would  need  scalding  and  scraping  with  a  knife 
in  order  to  remove  all  the  hairs;  cut  the  soles  from  the  hoofs  so  as  to  suppress  a  part  of  the  woolly 
tuft  found  thereon;  cut  the  ends  of  the  ergots,  tie  the  feet,  four  of  them  together,  and  blanch  until 
they  boil;  then  drain  and  refresh,  place  them  in  a  soup-pot,  covering  them  over  with  cold  water, 
adding  salt,  pepper,  spices,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  onions,  carrots  and  one  ounce  of 
flour  diluted  in  cold  water.  Bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil,  cover  the  vessel  and  cook  the  feet  for  five 
hours,  when  done  take  out  the  shank  bone  which  easily  detaches  without  the  slightest  effort.  Just 
when  ready  to  serve  untie  and  drain;  remove  the  leg  bone  and  wipe  the  feet  on  a  cloth;  dress  them 
on  a  hot  dish  with  a  napkin  under,  and  surround  with  green  parsley  leaves.  Serve  a  vinaigrette 
sauce  (No.  634)  separately. 


LA.MB  OVgneau). 


(1661).  BAEON  OF  YEARLING  LAMB  A  LA  DE  EIVAS  (Baron  d'Agneau  Tardif  a  la  de  Eivas). 
Cut  a  baron  from  the  hind  part  of  the  lamb  from  the  first  rib  to  the  loin  bone  (Fig.  340). 
Roast  it  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  and  when  done  trim  and  dress  on  a  dish;  glaze  with  meat  glaze 
(No.  402)  and  garnish  around  with  twelve  stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2842)  and  twelve  stuffed  mush- 
rooms (No.  692)  and  outside  of  these  set  small  bouchees  filled  with  cream  spinach  (No.  2820),  place 
on  top  a  ball  of  potato  croquette  (No.  2782)  one  inch  in  diameter.  An  aromatic  tomato  sauce  (No. 
549)  to  be  served  apart. 

(1662).  BREASTS  OF  LAMB,  BAKED  (Poitrines  d'Agneau  an  Gratin). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  breasts  the  same  as  for  chopped  sauce  (No.  1663);  put  them  under  a 
weight  or  in  the  press  (Fig.  71)  and  press  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  when  cold  pare  by 
removing  the  skin  and  part  of  the  fat;  cut  into  an  oblong  shape,  then  cover  with  a  baking  force- 
meat (No.  81);  lay  on  top  of  each  three  mushrooms,  one  large  and  two  small  ones;  place  them  on 
a  well-buttered  baking  dish,  pour  over  an  Italian  sauce  (No.  484),  bestrew  with  bread  raspings  and 
besprinkle  with  butter,  then  brown  in  the  oven;  serve  on  the  same  dish  and  garnish  the  sides  with 
round  cuts  of  red  beef  tongue  warmed  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  with  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

(1663).  BEEASTS  OF  LAMB,  CHOPPED  SAUCE  (Poitrine  d'Agneau  a  la  Sauce  Hachee). 
Have  two  fine  breasts  of  yearling  lamb  or  young  mutton;  suppress  the  bone  part  covering  the 
gristle;  lay  the  meats  in  a  low  saucepan  lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  cut  up  carrots  and  onions,  and 
a  garnished  bouquet;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  cover  over  with  buttered  paper  and  set  it  into 
a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  two  to  two  hours  and  a  half,  until  the  bones  can  be  easily  removed. 
Drain  and  place  the  meats  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight  to  reduce  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch,  and 
when  quite  cold,  pare  and  remove  the  skin  carefully  without  touching  the  fat,  and  cut  the  meat  up 
into  half  hearts,  trim  them,  nicely  rounding  the  angles,  and  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  roll  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  till  they  attain  a  fine  color  and  are  very  hot,  then  dress 
them  either  in  a  straight  row  or  in  a  circle.  Garnish  around  with  olive-shaped  pieces  of  potato 
cooked  in  fresh  butter,  and  when  done,  and  the  butter  is  drained  off,  add  some  salt  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  dredging  over  with  chopped  parsley.  Serve  a  chopped  sauce  (No.  539)  separately. 

(1664).  BEEAST  OF  LAMB  WITH  TUENIPS  (Poitrine  d'Agneau  aux  Navetsl 
Remove  the  skin  covering  the  breast,  also  the  gristle  bone  from  two  breasts  of  lamb;  cut  them 
up  into  three-quarters  of  an  inch  square  pieces  and  fry  them  till  brown  in  butter,  then  drain  off  the  fat 
and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a);  boil  and  reduce  to  a  glaze;  remoisten  a  very  little  at  the 
time,  repeating  this  several  times  while  cooking,  and  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving,  drain 
off  the  meats,  pare  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan;  strain  the  sauce  over  and  add  some  turned 
turnips  fried  in  butter,  and  continue  the  cooking,  season  properly.  When  the  meats  and  turnips 
are  well  done  and  fallen  to  a  glaze,  dress  the  turnips  around. 

(1665).  BEEAST  OF  LAMB  WITH  VELOUTE  TOMATO  SAUCE— STUFFED  (Poitrine  d'Agneau 

Farcie  k  la  Sauce  Tomate  Veloute'e), 

Split  open  one  or  several  yearling  lamb  breasts  on  the  rib  sides,  by  slipping  the  blade  of  a  knife 
between  the  bone  and  the  meat  so  as  to  make  a  pocket,  season  the  inside  and  fill  the  empty  space 
with  forcemeat  (No.  65),  seasoned  highly  and  to  which  add  a  handful  of  soaked  and  pressed  out 
bread-crumbs,  also  some  raw  onions  chopped  and  parboiled,  cooked  minced  mushrooms  and 
chopped  parsley,  each  of  them  chopped  up  separately,  and  also  stir  in  two  whole  eggs.  Sew  up 
the  opening  in  the  breast,  cook  it  in  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  and  when  done  properly,  which  will  take 
about  two  hours  and  a  half,  drain  and  untie,  then  serve  with  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  reduced  with 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415). 

(547) 


548  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

(1666).  OAEBONADE  OP  LAMB  A  LA  JAEDINLEEE  (Carbonado  d'Agneau  a  la  Jardiniere). 

A  carbonade  or  loin  is  the  end  of  the  rack  (Fig.  335),  from  where  the  cutlets  begin  as  far  down  as 
where  the  tail  begins.  Chop  off  entirely  the  chine  bone  without  detaching  the  minion  fillet,  remove 
the  skin  covering  the  large  fillet  over  its  entire  outside  surface,  and  lard  the  meat  with  medium  lar- 
dons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Koll  over  the  flap,  tie  it  with  six  rounds  of  string,  forming  a  knot  at  each  round, 
and  then  lay  the  meat  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  veal,  ham,  cut  up  vegetables,  a 
garnished  bunch  of  parsley  and  allspice,  salt  it  over  lightly  and  wet  it  with  a  beef  stock  (No.  194a); 
let  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  to  its  height  with  white  wine  and  stock;  allow  the  boiling  to 
continue  for  five  minutes,  then  uncover  the  saucepan  and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to  finish 
cooking,  being  careful  to  baste  it  frequently  with  its  own  stock,  having  it  finally  assume  a  fine  color. 
Glaze,  untie,  dress  and  strain  and  skim  the  liquid,  reduce  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat;  garnish 
around  the  meat  with  a  jardiniere  garnishing  (No.  677). 


(1667).  CARBONADE  OP  LAMB  A  LA  KAMBUTEAU  (Oarbonade  d'Agneau  a  la  Eambuteau). 
Bone  entirely,  or  else  remove  the  aitchbone  only,  from  a  loin  of  lamb:  suppress  all  the  fat  and 
sinews,  also  the  skin  that  covers  the  sirloin  and  lard  with  medium-sized  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig. 
52)  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  fine  herbs;  roll  the  flap  over  and  tie.  Line  a  saucepan  with 
bardes  of  fat  pork,  lay  the  carbonade  on  top  and  moisten  to  its  height  with  mirepoix  stock  (No. 
419);  and  white  wine  boil,  then  simmer  in  the  oven  for  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours;  glaze, 
untie,  dress  on  a  long  dish  and  garnish  around  with  small  glazed  onions,  mushroom  heads 
and  potato  balls.  Strain  the  stock,  free  it  of  fat  and  reduce  it  with  as  much  veloute  (No.  415), 
thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks,  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice;  strain  it  once  more  through  a  tammy, 
and  use  part  of  it  to  cover  the  garnishings,  sending  the  remainder  to  the  table  separately. 

(1668).  LAMB'S  OEOWS,  EAVIGOTE  SAUCE  (Praises  d'Agneau  a  la  Sauce  Eavigote). 
Select  two  very  white  and  clean  lamb's  crows.  Line  an  earthen  crock  with  slices  of  fat 
pork,  range  the  crows  on  top  and  add  to  them  two  medium  onions  one  having  four  cloves  in  it,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  salt  and  pepper;  moisten  with  white  wine 
and  beef  stock  (No.  194a),  cover  the  top  with  more  slices  of  the  pork,  then  place  a  deep  plate  over, 
filling  it  with  water,  and  let  cook  slowly  in  a  moderate  oven  for  four  hours,  drain,  and  dress  on  a 
hot  dish,  surround  the  crows  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and  serve  with  ravigote  sauce  (No.  531). 

(1669).  LAMB  CUTLETS,  PLAIN— YEAELING  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  Tardif  Nature). 
Five  or  six  cutlets  can  be  taken  from  a  rack  of  yearling  lamb,  four  or  five  from  a  spring  lamb; 
remove  the  skin,  cut  them  into  any  desired  thickness,  and  should  the  rack  be  too 
thin,  then  cut  them  off  on  the  bias.     Remove  and  pare  the  bone  from  each  chop, 
then  beat  down  to  flatten  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  trim  them  all  around, 
removing  the  skin  from  each  side  of  the  rib  bone;  scrape  about  an  inch  of  the  end 
of  the  bone,  clean  off  the  meat  and  fat  to  enable  it  to  be  decorated  with  a  paper  frill; 
when  cooked  season  with  salt,  coat  over  with  butter  or  oil,  place  on  the  gridiron  all 
on  the  same  side  and  broil  on  a  slow  but  well  maintained  fire.     When  cooked  on 
FIG  346         one  si(ie'  turn  over  and  flnisb  cooking  on  the  other;  the  entire  operation  should  take 
about  six  minutes;  trim  the  handles  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  dress  and  serve  with 
a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1670).  LAMB  CUTLETS  A  LA  BUSSY  (Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Bussy). 
Pare  eight  yearling  lamb  cutlets;  season  with  salt,  mask  over  with  oil  and  broil  quite  rare  on  a 
brisk  fire.  Prepare  beforehand  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  sweetbreads  and  mushrooms  all  cut  up  into 
quarter  inch  pieces  and  mixed  with  a  well  reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  as  soon  as  it  be- 
comes quite  cold,  add  to  it  dice  pieces  of  duck's  liver  cut  the  same  size.  Spread  this  salpicon  on 
the  chops  all  on  the  same  side  rounding  it  well  on  top;  cover  over  with  a  cream  forcemeat  (No. 
75),  besprinkle  with  finely  chopped  truffles  and  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter.  Place  the 
chops  in  a  slack  oven  to  heat  the  salpicon,  trim  the  bone  handles,  dress  the  chops  flat  on  a 
light  bechamel  and  cream  sauce  (No.  411).  Serve  with  some  of  the  same  sauce  in  a  separate 
sauce-boat. 


LAMB.  549 

(1671).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  OATALANE  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Catalane), 

Cut  off  twelve  lamb  cutlets;  pare  them  with  the  bones  quite  short,  beat  them  flat,  salt  over  and 
roll  in  oil,  range  them  on  a  broiler  all  one  way,  and  broil  the  chops  on  a  brisk  fire  on  one  side 
only.  Reduce  one  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409)  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  mushroom  broth, 
and  when  nicely  thickened  stir  in  some  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  four  spoonfuls  of  cooked 
mushrooms,  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  lean  ham,  both  well  chopped  separately,  and  let  this 
preparation  become  cold.  Cover  the  cooked  sides  with  a  layer  of  the  preparation,  having  it 
dome-shaped  on  top;  bestrew  with  grated  parmesan,  then  lay  them  on  a  buttered  sautoir  and 
pour  butter  over;  set  this  for  one  instant  on  top  of  the  range,  then  finish  cooking  the  cutlets  in  a 
hot  oven  and  have  the  preparation  well  browned;  remove  them  at  once  to  garnish  the  handles  with 
frills  (No.  10)  and  dress  with  a  half-glaze  (No.  413)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  containing  shredded 
sweet  peppers. 

(1672).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  OHAKLEROI  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Oharleroi). 
Saute  sufficient  trimmed  and  seasoned  lamb  cutlets  in  butter;  when  done,  drain  and  arrange  them 
on  a  baking  sheet  one  beside  the  other;  cover  over  with  a  buttered  paper  and  let  get  cold  under  the 
pressure  of  a  light  weight.  Pare  the  cutlets  once  more  and  lay  on  one  of  their  sides  a  reduced  and 
thick  soubise  puree  (No.  723) ;  smooth  and  let  harden  for  an  hour,  then  lift  up  the  cutlets  one  by 
one,  and  dip  them  in  a  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  allov,  Jie  surplus  of  this  to  drain  off,  then  range 
them  on  a  baking  sheet,  apart  from  one  another  so  that  they  do  not  touch  and  keep  this  in  a  cool 
place  to  harden  the  sauce.  Detach  the  cutlets  from  the  sheet,  trim  off  any  surplus  of  sauce,  and 
roll  the  chops  in  grated  parmesan,  dip  them  at  once  into  beaten  eggs,  and  cover  over  with  white 
bread-crumbs;  smooth  the  surfaces  nicely  and  range  them  in  a  frying-basket  (Fig.  121),  plunge  this 
into  hot  frying-fat,  drain,  trim  the  handles  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(1673).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  CLE'MENCE  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Cl&nence). 
Have  ten  well-pared  fine  cutlets  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  saute  them  in  butter,  dress 
crown-shaped  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  ragout  made  as  follows:  To  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  add 
some  meat  glaze,  (No.  402)  good  Madeira  wine  and  lemon  juice,  also  escalops  of  lamb's  sweetbreads 
fried  in  butter  with  minced  mushrooms.  Between  each  cutlet  lay  around  slice  of  salted,  unsmoked 
red  beef  tongue  cut  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter; 
garnish  around  with  fine  Julienne  potatoes  (No.  2792);  trim  the  cutlet  handles  with  frills,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

(1674).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  DURAND  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Durand). 
Pare  eight  lamb  cutlets  chosen  from  the  covered  sides  of  the  rack;  suppress  the  spinal  bone  and 
fibrous  skin  from  the  rib  bones,  flatten  them  slightly,  season  and  saute  them  in  butter,  turning  them 
over  when  they  are  half  done,  and  finish  cooking  them  properly.  Prepare  some  very  thin  pancakes 
(No.  3078),  cut  them  into  heart-shapes,  having  them  slightly  smaller  than  papers  would  be,  as  there 
is  no  necessity  to  plait  them;  push  a  string  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  through  a  pocket  on 
the  edges  and  on  half  the  hearts  only,  put  a  little  cooked  fine  herb  sauce  (No.  461),  in  the  center, 
lay  a  cutlet  over  this,  with  some  more  of  the  sauce  above;  close  and  fasten  the  pancake  hermet- 
ically together,  and  range  them  all  on  a  buttered  dish,  set  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  ten  minutes,  sprinkle 
butter  over  and  serve  on  the  same  dish  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  poured  around. 

(1675).  LAMB  OUTLETS  ALA  GAVAEDI  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Gavardi). 
Season  eight  fine  lamb  cutlets;  range  them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fragments  of  salt  pork; 
roots  and  sliced  onions;  moisten  to  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  cover  with  another 
piece  of  the  pork;  reduce  the  liquid  slowly,  remoisten  once  more,  and  finish  to  cook  while  glazing. 
Braise  separately  some  rings  of  blanched  carrot,  and  the  same  quantity  of  medium-sized  onions  each 
one  weighing  about  an  ounce,  have  also  some  braised  lettuces  (No.  2754),  dress  the  cutlets  on  a 
dish  in  a  circle,  garnish  the  center  with  as  many  of  the  lettuces  as  there  are  cutlets  and  on  each 
cutlet  lay  one  of  the  carrot  rings  with  an  onion  in  the  center,  glaze  the  whole  with  meat  glaze  (No. 
402).  Reduce  the  braise  stock  after  it  has  been  strained  and  freed  of  fat,  with  a  little  espagnole 
(No.  414)  and  Marsala  wine;  serve  this  in  a  sauce-boat. 


550  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1676).  LAMB  OUTLETS,  GIRALDA  (Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Giralda). 

First  saute  ten  fine  cutlets,  then  set  them  under  a  weight  and  pare  them  when  cold.  Cut  some 
sweet  Spanish  onions  into  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  square  pieces,  blanch  and  cook  them  in  butter, 
not  allowing  them  to  attain  color,  then  add  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  sweet  Spanish  peppers 
and  thicken  the  whole  with  a  well-seasoned  and  reduced  veloute  (No.  415),  allow  it  to  cool,  mask 
the  cutlets  with  this  preparation,  smooth  nicely  dome-shaped  and  cover  over  with  a  well-reduced 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  bestrew  grated  parmesan  over  and  brown  in  the  oven.  Pour  a  supreme 
sauce  (No.  547),  finished  with  shrimp  butter  (No.  587)  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  garnish  the 
cutlet  handles  with  frills  (No.  10)  and  range  them  on  top  of  the  sauce. 

(1677;.  LAMB  CUTLETS,  LEVERRIER  (Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Leverrier). 
Broil  some  well  pared,  first  cut  cutlets;  have  as  many  one  and  three-quarter  inch  diameter 
tin  rounds  with  slightly  raised  edges;  butter  and  decorate  the  bottoms  with  a  star  each  point  of 
which  should  be  formed  one  half  of  tongue  and  the  other  half  of  truffle.  Cover  the  cut- 
lets with  a  layer  of  forcemeat  and  place  them  in  buttered  bottomless  cutlet  shaped  molds,  so 
that  the  cutlet  is  enveloped  in  forcemeat  and  fills  them  up  entirely;  smooth  well  the  surface  and 
then  turn  over  on  the  widest  part,  the  star  decorated  tin  round,  so  that  the  decoration  is  exactly 
on  the  kernel.  Put  them  for  a  few  moments  into  a  moderate  oven  and  after  the  forcemeat  is 
poached,  lift  off  both  the  tin  round  and  the  mold  molding  the  chop.  Pare  some  artichoke  bottoms 
two  inches  in  diameter,  season  and  fry  them  in  butter,  then  dress  them  flat  in  a  circle  and  lay  a 
cutlet  on  top  of  each;  trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10),  pour  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400)  in  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  orange  juice  and  butter 
added  at  the  last  moment. 

(1678).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  MAINTENOff  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Maintenon). 
Trim,  pare  and  season  twelve  lamb  cutlets;  saute  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  having  them  rare, 
then  drain,  wipe  and  cover  both  sides  with  a  well-reduced  soubise  sauce  (No.  543),  into  which 
some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped  parsley  have  been  added;  when  cold  dip  in  beaten 
eggs,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife  and  saute  them  in  clarified  butter;  dress  each  cutlet  on  a  peeled,  halved  and  pressed  out 
tomato  already  fried  iri  butter,  and  surround  the  whole  with  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter  balls  of  potatoes,  blanched  and  fried  in  butter;  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  to  be  served 
in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1679).  LAMB  CUTLETS  A  LA  MAISON  FOR  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Maison  d'Or). 
Trim  some  slices  of  bread  cut  three-sixteeriths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  into  half  heart  shapes; 
fry  them  in  butter  and  when  cold  cover  the  surfaces  with  some  foies-gras  in  terrine,  rounding  it 
on  the  tops  and  set  them  in  the  oven  for  one  instant  to  heat  only.  Dress  in  a  circle  and  place 
a  cooked  cutlet  on  each  slice  of  bread  and  lay  some  minced  truffles  in  the  center,  cover  the  whole 
with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  and  garnish  the  handles  with  a  frill  (No.  10),  then  serve. 

(1680).  LAMB  CUTLETS  A  LA  MINUTE,  WITH  MUSHROOMS,  SAUTED  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau 

Saute"es  a  la  ,Minute  aux  Champignons). 

Pare  a  dozen  lamb  cutlets;  season,  then  cook  over  a  brisk  fire  inasautoir  with  clarified  butter, 
turning  them  round  when  a  fine  color  on  one  side;  brown  both  sides  alike  and  cook  them  till  done, 
then  drain  off  the  butter  and  baste  them  with  a  little  melted  light  meat  glaze  (No. 402)  and  Madeira, 
reduce  on  a  quick  fire  to  dry  the  meat  on  both  sides.  Lay  the  cutlets  on  a  dish,  trim  the 
handles  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  dress  them  crown-shaped,  have  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  add  to  it 
some  minced  mushrooms,  and  pour  the  whole  into  the  center  of  the  crown  or  else  in  a  croustade. 

(1681).  LAMB  OUTLETS,  MURILLO  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Murillo). 

Pare  twelve  lamb  cutlets  having  them  both  wide  and  thin;  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  hot 
butter,  laying  them  all  one  way;  cook  on  one  side  only,  then  drain  and  cover  this  cooked  side  with 
slightly  cold  minced  mushrooms  reduced  and  thickened  with  some  good  bechamel  (No.  409)  finish- 
ing with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  smooth  the  surface  of  these  mushrooms  nicely,  dredge  over 
with  grated  parmesan,  sprinkle  with  melted  butter.  Return  the  chops  to  the  sautoir,  and  set 
it  in  the  hot  oven  to  finish  cooking  and  brown.  Dress  them  at  once  on  separate  plates  with  a 
little  half-glaze  (No.  400)  on  the  bottom  and  hand  them  to  the  guests. 


LAMB.  551 

(1682).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  NUBIAN  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Nubienne), 
Cook  and  dress  them  the  same  as  cutlets  a  la  minute  (No.  1680),  garnish  the  center  of  the  circle 
with  minced  truffles  minced  mushrooms,  rounds  of  red  beef  tongue  cut  one  inch  across,  and  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  the  whole  mingled  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  essence  of  mushrooms 
(No.  392).  Place  around  the  edge  of  the  dish  a  few  ball-shaped  rice  croquettes  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  in  diameter  and  serve  the  whole  very  hot. 

(1683).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Pengueux). 
Prepare  one  pound  of  chopped  forcemeat  (No.  65),  season  highly  and  add  four  ounces  of  finely 
chopped   truffles.     Pare  twelve  lamb  cutlets,  keeping  the  end  bones  quite  short  and  only  leaving 
the  kernel  meat  on;  beat  them  down  thin,  then  lay  in  a  sautoir  with  hot  butter,  simply  to  stiffen 
the  meat,  remove  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet;  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  let  get  partially  cold 
under  the  pressure  of  a  weight,  or  in  the  press  (Fig.  71),  afterward  covering  both  sides  of  the  me»-> 
with  a  layer  of  the  above  forcemeat;  enclose  them  separately  in  square  pieces  of  pork  "crepinette1 
or  kail  fat,  broil  nicely  over  a  slow  fire  and  dress  on  a  very  hot  dish,  pouring  a  little  clear  gravi 
(No.  404)  into  the  bottom  of  it.     Serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  Pe"rigueux  sauce  (No.  517),  to  whick 
is  mixed  some  pearl  chicken  forcemeat  quenelles  (No.  154). 

(1684).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  POMPADOUR  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Pompadour). 
Prepare  this  dish  with  twelve  fine  well  pared  lamb  cutlets  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
fried  in  butter;  set  them  under  a  weight,  wipe  dry  and  cover  both  sides  with  a  thoroughly  reduced 
cold  soubise  (No.  723) ;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  then  fry  again  slowly  in  clari- 
fied butter  and  dress  on  a  garnishing  composed  of  flageolet  beans,  quarter  inch  balls  of  carrots 
and  turnips.  The  whole  mingled  with  Pompadour  sauce  (No.  525). 

(1685).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  ROBINSON  Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Robinson). 
Season  eight  fine  cutlets  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  fry  them  in  butter.     Apart  from  this  cut 
up  some  chicken  livers  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares,  cook  them  briskly  in  butter  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  dress  the  chops  in  a  circle,  garnish  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10)  and  lay  the  drained 
livers  in  the  center;  pour  over  a  Madeira  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  fine  herbs. 

(1686).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  SIGNORA  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Signora). 
Pare  twelve  lamb  cutlets  leaving  on  only  the  kernel  and  the  bone;  spilt  them  in  two  through 
their  thickness,  season  and  stuff  each  one  with  a  slice  of  truffle  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  substitute 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  for  the  fat  that  has  been  removed  so  as  to  give  the  chop  its  original 
shape.  Dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife,  then  fry  the  cutlets  in  clarified  butter  (No.  16);  drain  and  place  paper  frills  (No.  10)  on 
the  handles.  Dress  in  a  circle  and  pour  into  the  center  a  well  buttered  supreme  sauce  (No.  547) 
into  which  chopped  truffles  have  been  added. 

(1687).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  TALMA  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Talma). 
Fry  twelve  lamb  cutlets,  keeping  them  quite  rare;  lay  them  under  a  light  weight  or  in  the 
press  (No.  71)  and  when  partly  cold,  pare  and  dip  them  in  a  rather  thick,  nearly  cold  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409);  range  them  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  on  every  cutlet  place  a  slice  of  foies- 
gras,  cover  this  over  with  more  bechamel  and  when  partly  cold,  dredge  over  with  bread-crumbs 
and  trim  well  the  cutlets,  removing  the  excess  of  sauce,  strew  with  a  little  parmesan  cheese, 
pour  on  a  little  butter  and  brown  to  a  fine  golden  color  in  the  oven,  trim  the  handles  with  a  frill 
(No.  10)  and  dress  in  a  circle  filling  the  center  with  minced  fresh  mushrooms  mingled  with 
supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  and  lay  around  thin  round  slices  of  truffle  pouring  a  little  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  over  these,  and  serve. 

(1688).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  TURENNE  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Turenne), 
Pare  a  dozen  nice  cutlets  taken  from  the  covered  ribs  of  the  racks  and  suppress  the 
spinal  bone  and  fibrous  skin  from  the  ribs;  make  a  gash  across  the  middle  of  the  kernel  and  fill  it 
up  with  a  cooked  fine  herb  preparation  (No.  385),  mingled  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and 
thickened  with  egg-yolks.  Bread-crumb  and  fry  them  in  butter,  trim  the  handles  with  a  frill 
(No.  10),  dress  the  cutlets  crown-shaped  and  cover  with  a  buttered  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  into 
which  has  been  added  some  mushrooms  and  stuffed  olives  (No.  695). 


552  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1689).  LAMB  OUTLETS  A  LA  VICTOR  HUGO  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Victor  Hugo). 

Season  the  cutlets  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  them  over  with  oil  and  broil  nicely  till  done;  cover 
each  one  with  well-buttered  and  consistent  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  into  which  has  been  added  some 
grated  fresh  and  very  white  horseradish,  lay  on  every  cutlet  a  round  slice  of  truffle  warmed  in  a 
little  meal  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira  wine,  dress  the  cutlets  in  a  circle,  pour  a  little  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413)  around  the  cutlets;  trim  the  handles  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  serve. 

(1690).  LAMB  OUTLETS  BEEADED,  SAUTED  AND  BEOILED  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  Pannes 

Saute"es  ou  Grille'es). 

Saut6d. — Pare  ten  lamb  cutlets  into  good  shape,  flatten,  season  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  to 
roll  after  in  bread-crumbs;  smooth  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  then  put  them  in  a 
sautoir  with  hot  purified  butter  (No.  16),  cook  on  both  sides  turning  them  over  only  once,  drain 
and  trim  with  fancy  frills  (No.  10),  dress  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Broiled. — Bread-crumb  the  cutlets  the  same  as  when  sauteing  them;  eight  minutes  before  serv- 
ing, roll  them  in  melted  butter,  broil  over  a  slow  fire  turning  them  on  both  sides;  take  them  off  when 
done  and  lay  them  on  a  plate,  trim  with  fancy  frills,  then  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  very  hot  dish 
pouring  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  bottom. 

(1691).  LAMB  OUTLETS  IN  CEEPINETTE  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  eii  Cr^pinette). 
Prepare  twelve  rather  thick  but  well-trimmed  lamb  cutlets,  leaving  the  kernel  only,  and  sup- 
pressing all  the  fat  and  sinews;  chop  the  meats  without  cutting  through,  then  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg.  Make  a  forcemeat  with  half  a  pound  of  chopped  fat  pork,  half  a  pound  of 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  bread-crumbs;  mix  thoroughly  and  lay  it  on 
both  sides  of  the  cutlets;  wrap  each  one  separately  in  a  square  piece  of  "  crepinette"  or  caul  fat 
well  fattened;  butter  them  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  butter,  and  broil  for  twenty-five  minutes 
on  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  round  when  cone  on  one  side;  then  lay  them  on  a  small  baking  tin; 
trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10);  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  adding  some  reduced  clear  gravy 
(No.  404.) 

(1692).  LAMB  OUTLETS  IN  PAPEES  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  en  Papillotes). 

Lamb  cutlets  from  their  peculiar  tenderness  and  delicacy  are  well  adapted  to  be  prepared  in 

papers.     Trim  eight  spring  lamb  cutlets  pared  most  carefully  and  keeping  them  as  wide  as  possible, 

season  and  fry  in  a  sautoir  with  some  melted  fat  pork,  turning  them  over  while  cooking;  let  them 

remain  quite  rare;  remove  the  cutlets  leaving  the  pork  in  the  pan  and  to  it  add  finely  chopped  onions, 


FIG.  347. 

shallots,  mushrooms,  and  truffles;  after  these  have  rendered  their  moisture  take  them  out  and  mix 
in  with  some  chopped  parsley,  and  lean,  cooked,  and  finely  shredded  ham  combined  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81).  Divide  this  preparation  into  as  many  parts  as  there  are 
cutlets  and  cover  each  one  with  a  layer  of  it,  c~it  some  sheets  of  strong  paper  into  heart-shapes,  oil 
over  on  one-half  the  right  side,  pour  a  little  sauce,  with  a  cutlet  on  top,  then  a  little  more  of  the 
sauce  and  fold  over  the  paper;  plait  the  two  edges  together  in  such  a  way  as  to  enclose  the  meat 
completely,  then  lay  them  on  a  buttered  dish  that  can  stand  the  heat  of  the  oven,  and  on  which 
they  are  to  be  served;  set  it  in  the  oven,  and  when  they  have  acquired  a  fine  color  serve;  or  they 
may  be  broiled  over  a  very  slow  fire  in  their  papers  and  then  dressed  on  a  very  hot  dish. 

(1693).  LAMB  OUTLETS  WITH  STRING  BEANS  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  aux  Haricots  Verts). 

Pare  the  breast  bones  four  inches  long,  cut  off  the  neck  to  the  third  rib,  saw  off  the  spinal 
bone  without  spoiling  the  fillets  as  far  as  the  rib,  then  cut  from  each  rack  five,  six,  or  seven  chops 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  meat  and  the  purpose  they  are  intended  for.  Remove  the  meat 
from  the  end  bones  of  each  chop  an  inch  deep,  and  flatten  the  meat  lightly;  suppress  the  fibrous 


LAMB.  553 

skin  adhering  to  the  kernel,  also  the  one  attached  to  the  bone;  season  with  salt,  and  dip  in  melted 
butter;  roll  them  in  fresh  bread-crumbs,  then  broil  over  a  brisk  fire,  turning  them  only  once  dur- 
ing the  operation.  Trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10),  dress  and  garnish  with  sauted  string 
beans  (No.  2829),  pour  around  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  having  had  a  blanched  and  chopped 
shallot  boiled  in  with  it  and  serve. 

(1694).  EPIGRAMMES  OF  LAMB  i  LA  TOULOUSE  (Epigrammes  d'Agneau  a  la  Toulouse). 

Saw  off  the  breasts  from  two  racks  of  lamb,  remove  the  bone  covering  the  gristle  and  put  thf> 
breasts  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  fat  pork,  carrots,  onions  and  a  garnished  bouquet  (No.  123);  cook 
them  just  long  enough  to  be  able  to  remove  the  bones  easily,  and  when  this  is  done  drain  and  range 
on  a  baking  sheet  and  set  a  weight  on  top.  From  each  rack  make  five  covered  cutlets,  pare  them, 
nicely,  season  and  fry  to  a  fine  color,  dress  and  detach  the  stock  from  the  pan  with  a  little  clear 
gravy  (No.  404),  with  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Pare  the  breasts  into  half  hearts  and 
when  very  cold  round  the  angles  and  insert  a  bone  into  each  pointed  end  of  the  meat;  return  these 
to  the  sautoir,  and  pour  over  the  stock  reduced  to  a  half-glaze.  Range  the  cutlets  and  breasts  alter- 
nately or  else  in  straight  rows,  one  of  cutlets  and  one  of  breasts,  or  if  in  a  round  have  one  half 
breasts  and  the  other  half  cutlets;  garnish  the  center  with  a  Toulouse  garnishing  (No.  766)  either 
laid  in  the  center  or  else  in  a  croustade,  or  should  the  epigrammes  be  dressed  in  a  straight  row, 
then  place  it  around.  Serve  separately  the  stock  strained  through  a  sieve.  A  cutlet  may  be  set 
on  top  a  piece  of  breast  which  will  serve  as  a  crouton,  and  dress  them  crown-shaped  with  the 
garnishing  in  the  center. 

C1695).  EPIGRAMMES  OF  LAMB,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Epigrammes  d'Agneau  a  1'Ancienne), 

Braise  two  breasts  of  lamb  (No.  1694);  drain  and  take  out  the  bones  reserving  them 
to  use  later  for  imitating  handles;  let  the  meat  get  cold  under  a  weight  to  reduce  to  half  an 
inch,  then  pare  nicely  by  suppressing  the  skin  and  cutting  them  up  into  half  heart-shapes, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cover  over  entirely  with  Duxelle  sauce  (No.  461).  When  cold 
bread-crumb  them  in  eggs.  Scrape  the  reserve  bones,  sharpen  one  end  and  insert  one  in 
each  half  heart.  For  eight  pieces  of  breast  have  eight  covered  cutlets,  pare  them  nicely,  season 
and  broil  or  fry,  then  glaze  them  over  with  a  brush.  Brown  the  breasts  in  a  sautoir  with  very 
hot  clarified  butter,  when  done  drain  and  decorate  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10),  also  those  of 
the  cutlets  and  dress  them  in  a  circle,  intercalating  the  breasts  with  the  cutlets.  Eeduce  some 
white  wine  veloute  (No.  415)  with  mushroom  broth  and  add  to  it  a  garnishing  of  quenelles  and 
mushrooms;  range  this  garnishing  in  the  middle  of  the  circle  and  decorate  around  with  small  glazed 
lamb's  sweebreads. 

(1696).  LAMB  FRIES,  CREAM  HORSERADISH  OR  TOMATO  SAUCE  (Animelles  d'Agneau  a  la  Sauce 

Raifort  a  la  Oreme  ou  a  la  Sauce  Tomate), 

Skin  and  then  cut  them  up  either  in  two  or  four,  according  to  their  size;  lay  them  in  a  vessel 
to  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  lemon-juice,  and  leave  to  marinate  for  one  hour;  roll  them  in 
flour,  immerse  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  again  in  bread-crumbs,  then  fry  them  to  a  fine  golden  color  and 
drain.  Dress  them  on  a  napkin  in  a  pyramid;  garnish  the  top  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley,  and 
around  with  quartered  lemon.  Serve  separately  either  a  cream  horseradish  sauce  (No.  478)  or  a 
tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(1697),  LAMB  HASLETS  MARINATED  (Fraissure  d'Agneau  a  la  Marinade), 

Blanch  the  lights,  drain  and  cut  them  up  into  inch  and  a  half  squares;  melt  some  chopped  fat 
pork  in  a  saucepan  and  when  very  hot  lay  in  the  lights  and  fry  them  for  a  few  minutes  over  a  very 
brisk  fire;  add  the  heart  cut  into  eight  pieces  and  the  liver  in  inch  and  a  quarter  pieces;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  sprinkle 
over  with  flour,  then  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  half  white  wine;  let  the  whole  cook 
till  done  to  three-quarters,  then  lay  in  sixty  small  fried  onions  and  a  pound  of  small  mushrooms; 
as  soon  as  these  are  cooked,  suppress  the  parsley,  season  nicely  and  notice  whether  the  sauce  is 
not  too  thin;  when  right,  dress,  pour  the  liquid  over  and  garnish  around  with  croutons  fried  in 
butter. 


554  THE    EPIC  URBAN. 

Another  Way.— This  dish  may  also  be  made  by  placing  the  haslets  cut  up  in  an  earthen  crock 
with  minced  carrots,  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaves,  sprigs  of  parsley,  salt  pepper,  mace,  vinegar  and 
oil  and  allowing  it  to  marinate  for  twelve  hours,  being  careful  to  turn  the  meat  several  times  so 
that  it  all  reaches  the  marinade;  drain  and  fry  in  butter,  besprinkle  over  with  flour,  moisten  with 
white  or  red  wine  and  stock  (No.  194a)  season  and  boil  slowly  till  thoroughly  cooked,  then  serve. 

(1698),  LAMB  HEAD,  GENOISE  OR  VINAIGRETTE  SAUCE  (Tete  d'Agneau    Sauce  Genoise  on 

Vinaigrette), 

Bone  the  head  as  far  as  the  eye,  remove  both  the  lower  and  upper  jaw  and  the  eyes,  leaving  on 
the  crown  only  with  the  brain;  steep  and  blanch  the  head  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  refresh,  wipe, 
singe  and  tie  it  up.  Dilute  some  flour  in  cold  water,  adding  to  it  some  salt,  pepper,  onions,  carrots! 
a  garnished  bouquet  and  vinegar;  boil  the  head  in  this  for  two  hours,  then  drain  and  untie  it  and 
dress  on  a  napkin  with  parsley  ranged  around.  Serve  separately  a  well-buttered  and  acidulated 
genoise  sauce  (No.  470)  or  else  a  vinaigrette  sauce  (No.  634). 

(1699),  LAMB  KIDNEYS  A  LA  LULLT  (Rognons  d'Agneau  a  la  Lully). 
Cut  eight  skinned  kidneys  lengthwise;  fry  them  in  butter  over  a  hot  fire,  season  and 
add  some  finely  chopped  blanched  shallots  fried  in  butter,  some  minced  mushrooms,  chopped  pars- 
ley and  lemon  juice.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve,  stir  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  dress  the  kidneys 
and  pour  the  sauce  over,  garnishing  around  with  small  one  inch  in  diameter  potato  croquettes  (No. 
3782)  and  then  serve. 

(1700).  BROOHETTES  OP  LAMB  KIDNEYS  (Brochettes  de  Rognons  d'Agneau). 
Peel  off  the  thin  skin  covering  the  kidneys,  cut  them  across  into  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch 
slices,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste  with  sweet  oil.  Thread  these  on  skewers  alter- 
nating each  piece  with  a  bit  of  bacon  one  inch  square  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  dip  the  whole 
into  oil  and  roll  in  fresh  bread-crumbs,  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire,  dress  and  sprinkle  with  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(1701),  LAMB  KIDNEYS,  FLEMISH  STYLE  (Rognons  d'Agneau  a  la  Eamande). 
Fry  colorless  in  butter  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions,  one  small  chopped  shallot,  one 
whole  clove  of  garlic,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  cut  up  mushrooms,  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne;  moisten 
with  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  adding  a  little  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  some  cream  and  a  small 
piece  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579) ;  when  ready  remove  the  garlic.  Skin  eight  lambs1  kidneys, 
split  each  one  lengthwise  in  two  and  fry  them  in  butter;  season  as  soon  as  they  evaporate  their 
moisture  and  are  cooked;  dress  and  pour  the  above  sauce  over. 

(1702).  LAMB  KIDNEYS,  GLAZED  (Rognons  d'Agneau  Q  lace's). 

Peel  the  skin  from  twelve  kidneys,  split  each  one  into  two  parts;  pat  a  piece  of  butter  in  a 
pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallot,  fry  without  browning  then  add  the  kidneys;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  as  soon  as  they  are  well  sized  besprinkle  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  glaze  (No.  402);  roll  them  in  this  off  the  fire  and  bestrew  with  chopped  parsley,  finishing 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  dress  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  surround  with  fried  croutons  glazed  over 
with  a  brush. 

(1703).  LAMB  KIDNEYS  ON  SKEWERS  (Rognons  d'Agneau  en  Brochettes). 

Split  open  the  kidneys  on  the  round  side  three-quarters  through  without  separating  the  parts; 
run  skewers  through,  having  two  kidneys  to  each  metal  skewer  (Fig.  341) ;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  cover  over  with  oil,  broil  them  first  on  the  open  side  and  when  sufficiently  done,  turn 
them  over  on  the  other;  dress  them  the  open  side  uppermost,  and  lay  on  every  kidney  a  little 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  582).  Squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1704).  STEWED  LAMB  KIDNEYS  WITH  MADEIRA  AND  WITH  MUSHROOMS  (Rognons 
d'Agneau  Sautes  an  Madere  et  aux  Champignons). 

To  obtain  fine  stewed  kidneys  it  must  be  perfectly  well  understood  that  they  should  be  sauted 
over  a  quick  fire  in  order  to  seize  them  rapidly  and  ought  never  to  be  allowed  to  boil  or  cook  in  their 
»auce.  Suppress  the  skin  from  eight  fresh  lambs1  kidneys;  mince  them  up,  removing  all  the  ha*d 


LAMB.  555 

parts.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  pan  and  when  hot,  put  in  the  kidneys  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk  fire; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  the  meats  are  sized  without  being  dry,  take  them  out  with 
a  skimmer,  leaving  the  liquid  in  the  pan.  Fry  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  butter  in  a 
sautoir,  pour  into  it  the  reduced  kidney  gravy,  and  let  the  whole  cook  with  a  little  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413),  and  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  strain  and  skim  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  and  pour 
it  over  the  kidneys,  heat  them  without  boiling,  and  finish  the  stew  with  lemon  juice  and  chopped 
parsley. 

With  Mushrooms. — Instead  of  using  Madeira,  reduce  the  sauce  with  mushroom  essence 
(No.  392),  and  add  some  sliced  mushrooms. 

(1705).  LEG  OP  LAMB  A  LA  BEECY  (Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la  Bercy). 

Remove  the  thick  loin  and  bone  from  a  leg  of  yearling  lamb  and  saw  off  the  knuckle, 
remove  about  five  inches  of  the  meat  to  form  a  handle.  Line  a  saucepan  with  fragments  of  fat 
pork,  raw  suet,  roots,  minced  onions,  and  aromatics;  lay  in  the  meat,  salt  it  over,  and  place  on 
the  fire  for  a  few  moments,  turning  it  round;  moisten  to  its  height  with  light  broth  (No.  194a),  and 
let  boil;  continue  the  boiling  process  while  skimming  well  the  surface,  then  close  the  saucepan 
and  remove  it  back  to  a  slower  fire  in  order  that  it  continue  to  cook  but  much  more  moderately; 
it  will  take  from  three  to  four  hours,  and  the  liquid  should  then  be  reduced  to  two-thirds;  drain 
the  leg,  lay  it  in  a  small,  deep,  narrow  baking  pan,  also  its  strained  and  skimmed  stock  reduced  to 
a  half -glaze  (No.  400)  with  Madeira  and  gravy  (No.  404);  put  it  in  the  oven  to  become  a  fine  color 
while  basting  frequently  with  its  own  stock,  then  strain  this  off,  remove  all  its  fat  and  reduce; 
pour  a  third  of  it  over  the  dressed  leg,  garnish  it  with  a  frill  (No.  10),  and  serve  separately  a  borde- 
laise  sauce  (No.  436),  stirred  into  the  remainder  of  the  stock. 

(1706).  LEG  OF  LAMB  A  LA  BEITAOIA,  OE  GEEEN  SAUCE  OE  OAPEE  SAUCE  (Gigot  d'Agneau 
a  la  Britannia  ou  Sauce  Verte  ou  Sauce  aux  Oapres). 

Pare  nicely  a  leg  of  yearling  lamb,  cut  off  the  knuckle  bone  at  the  handle,  remove  about  two 
inches  of  the  meat  from  this  to  make  a  handle,  scraping  the  bone  clean,  weigh  the  meat  and 
plunge  it  into  boiling  water;  let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound  and  add  to  it  salt,  pepper 
a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  clove  of  garlic,  two  cut  carrots  and  four  onions. 
After  the  leg  is  done,  dress  on  a  long  dish,  and  trim  it  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10),  glaze  the  meat. 
Serve  separately  a  well  buttered  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  into  which  add  lemon  juice,  mig^ 
nonette  and  chopped  parsley;  garnish  around  with  cauliflower  boiled  in  salted  water. 

With  Green  Sauce. — Prepare  it  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  above,  and  when  the  leg  is  dressed 
serve  without  garnishing  and  with  a  green  sauce  (No.  473)  served  separately. 

With  Caper  Sauce.— Prepare,  cook  and  dress  it  as  for  the  above;  serve  separately  a  caper  sauce 
(No.  441). 

(1707X  LEG  OF  LAMB  A  LA  FEAEING,  ZEENEL  (Noix  de  Gigot  d'Agneau  k  la  Fearing). 
Lift  the  kernel  from  a  leg  of  yearling  lamb,  pare  it  exactly  the  same  as  a  kernel  of  veal  and 
then  fry  it  in  clarified  butter,  drain  this  off  and  moisten  with  Madeira  wine  and  some  veal  blond  stock 
(No.  423),  putting  in  very  little  at  the  time,  only  adding  it  as  fast  as  it  becomes  reduced.  Dress, 
strain  the  gravy,  and  reduce  it  with  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira.  For  the  garnishing 
have  medium-sized  whole  truffles,  cooked  fresh  mushrooms,  cocks'-combs  and  kidneys,  all  being 
cooked  separately.  Dress  these  in  separate  and  distinct  clusters,  and  cover  them  all  with  part  of 
the  sauce,  serving  the  rest  of  it  in  a  sauce-bowl. 

(1708).  LEG  OF  LAMB,  A  LA  GUYANE  (Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la  Guyane). 
Bone  a  leg  of  yearling  lamb  reserving  the  bone  for  the  handle;  fill  the  hollow  space  with  a  dress- 
ing made  of  fresh  pork,  bacon,  cooked  ham,  chopped  mushrooms  and  soaked  and  pressed  out  bread- 
crumbs, adding  to  it  eggs  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Sew  up  the  leg  and  then  brown 
it  in  some  fat  pork;  wet  it  with  white  wine  and  put  in  with  it  some  roots,  carrots,  turnips,  celery  and 
onions;  season,  boil,  skim  and  continue  the  boiling  for  three  to  four  hours,  then  strain  the  stock, 
free  it  of  its  fat  and  keep  back  half  of  it,  reduce  the  other  half  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414) 
and  a  little  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  added.  Dress  the  leg,  pare  the  handle 
nicely  and  range  an  Indian  risot  (No.  737)  around;  cover  with  the  stock  after  it  has  been  well 
reduced  and  place  a  paper  frill  (No.  10)  on  the  handle  bone.  Pour  the  prepared  sauce  in  a  sauce- 
bowl  and  serve  it  at  the  same  time. 


556  TTIE    EPICUREAN 

(1709).  LEG  OP  LAMB,  ZING'S  PILAU  (Gigot  d'Agneau  Pilav  du  Eoi). 

Have  one  pound  of  boned  leg  of  lamb;  pare  off  all  the  fat  and  sinews  and  then  divide  it  into 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  pieces;  have  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  three-eighth  inch  dice  of  raw 
ham,  fry  all  these  in  butter  over  a  bright  fire  with  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  moisten 
with  half  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a),  season  and  reduce  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  once  more  with 
another  half  pint  and  so  on  until  the  pilau  is  done  and  very  rich;  season  with  a  dash  of  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt.  Fry  colorless  a  chopped  onion  in  butter,  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  washed 
and  dried  rice;  when  this  is  quite  hot,  wet  it  with  twice  its  volume  of  the  stock  from  the  pilau  and 
stock  (No.  194a),  cover,  bring  to  a  boil  and  place  it  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes  and  as  soon 
as  done,  add  butter  and  parmesan.  Fill  a  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  with  this,  unmold  on  a  dish, 
remove  the  bunch  of  parsley  from  the  pilau  and  pour  it  into  the  center  of  the  border,  cover  over 
with  a  layer  of  the  same  rice;  reserved  for  the  purpose,  smooth  it  neatly  with  a  knife,  strew  par- 
mesan cheese  on  top,  besprinkle  with  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

(1710).  SLICES  OF  LEG  OF  LAMB  A  LA  DOEDOGNE  (Tranches  de  Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la 

Dordogne). 

These  are  slices  of  meat  cut  from  a  leg  of  raw  spring  lamb,  free  of  all  fat  and  sinews  and  should 
be  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  season  and  cover  them  all  with  a  chicken  or  forcemeat 
into  which  as  much  fine  cooked  herbs  (No.  385)  have  been  mixed;  roll  them  up  into  cylinder  shapes, 
run  on  small  metal  skewers  (Fig.  176),  then  dip  in  melted  butter  and  bread-crumbs;  broil  them  over 
a  slow  fire  till  done,  dress  and  pour  over  a  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  buttered  at  the  last  moment 
with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(1711).  SLICES  OF  LEG  OF  LAMB  A  LA  PEEVILLOT  (Tranches  de  Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la 

Pre"villot). 

Cut  some  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  slices  from  the  kernel  of  a  raw  leg  of  lamb,  pare 
them  into  rounds,  two  inches  in  diameter,  season  with  salt  and  fry  in  clarified 
butter.  Fry  colorless  in  butter,  one  ounce  of  onions  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares,  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  in  quarter  inch  pieces,  some  peeled  egg-plant 
cut  in  three-eighth  inch  squares  and  a  little  piece  of  garlic;  moisten  with  clear 
gravy  (No.  404)  and  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and  reduce,  then  pour  it  into  a  dish, 
bestrew  with  chopped  parsley  and  lay  the  slices  of  lamb  over. 

FIG.  348. 

(1712).  BLANQUETTE  OF  LEG  OF  LAMB  (Blanquette  de  Gigot  d'Agneau). 
Take  some  cold  leg  of  lamb,  suppress  from  it  all  the  fat  and  sinews,  remove  the  skin  and  cut 
the  meat  into  quarter-inch  thick  slices;  pare  them  rounded  and  range  the  pieces  in  a  sautoir, 
add  to  it  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  finished  with  a  little  mushroom  liquor— enough  to  cover  the 
meat— stir  in  salt,  mignonette  and  leave  the  stew  on  the  fire  for  a  few  moments  before  serving,  but 
it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil.  Dress  the  blanquette  either  in  a  circle  or  a  straight  row,  and 
thicken  the  sauce  with  four  egg-yolks  diluted  in  a  little  milk,  fresh  butter,  vinegar  or  lemon  juice; 
strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  add  to  it  some  minced  mushrooms,  heat  without  boiling, 
pour  it  over  the  meat  and  garnish  around  with  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter. 

(1713).  LAMB  OE  MUTTON  STEAK  PLAIN,  MAITEE  D'HOTEL  (Steak  d'Agneau  ou  de  Mouton 

Nature,  Maitre  d'Hotel). 

The  steak  is  a  slice  either  of  lamb  or  mutton  cut  through  the  entire  thickness  of  the  leg;  for 

this    a    two-pronged    steel 
fork     is     used    (Fig.    349) 

thrust  into  a  hole  bored  for 

FlG  849<  the  purpose  in  the  butcher's 

table,  having  it  the  same  diameter  as  the  handle  of  the  fork;  the  leg 

is  placed  on  the  fork  in  such  a  way  that  the    shank  bone   passes  

between  the  two  prongs,  then  cut  off  slices  from  five  to  six-eighths  of  FIG.  350. 

an  inch  thick;  saw  through  the  bone  the  same  thickness  as  the  meat. 

The  fork  is  for  the  purpose  of  upholding  the  bone  so  that  it  can  be  sawed  through  more  easily. 

Season  the  steak  with  salt,  coat  it  over  with  oil  and  broil,  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish   either  plain 

or  with  a  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 


LAMB.  557 

(1714).  LEG  OF  LAMB  WITH  OAEEOTS  (Gigot  d'Agneaii  aux  Garottes). 
Prepare  the  leg  exactly  the  same  as  for  gravy  (No.  1715),  only  serve  at  the  same  time,  but  sep- 
arately a  garnishing  of  carrots  made  by  parboiling  about  two  pounds  of  new  carrots  cut  into  pear 
shapes  and  then  cook  them  in  a  little  stock  (No.  194a)  with  salt  and  sugar  added;  finish  cooking 
them  very  slowly  tossing  at  times  to  have  them  all  done  alike,  then  thicken  with  four  raw  egg- 
yolks  diluted  with  a  gill  of  cream  and  a  little  fine  butter;  add  some  chopped  parsley  and  serve  with 
a  thickened  gravy  (No.  405)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat  the  same  time  as  the  leg. 

(1715).  LEG  OF  YEARLING  LAMB  WITH  GRAVY  ROASTED  (Gigot  d'Agneau  Tardif  Roti  an  jus), 
Pare  and  beat  a  leg  of  yearling  lamb  to  soften  it,  then  run  the  spit  skewer  through  to  bring  it 
out  at  the  kernel  without  injuring  the  meat,  allowing  it  to  follow  the  course  of  the  bone.  Tie  the 
bone  tightly  to  the  spit,  place  a  long  skewer  over  it  and  fasten  firmly  at  each  end.  It  will  take  from 
an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  cook.  When  done,  dress  and  trim  the  handle  with  a  frill, 
(No.  10)  and  serve  the  dripping  pan  gravy  at  the  same  time  as  the  meat,  stirring  into  it  a  little  clear 
gravy  (No.  404);  skim  the  fat  from  the  top  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

To  Roast  in  the  Oven. — Lay  the  leg  in  a  baking  pan,  besmear  it  with  good  fat  and  cook  it  for 
one  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter  according  to  its  size.  It  will  take  a  few  moments  longer  to 
roast  it  in  the  oven  than  on  the  spit. 

(1716).  LEG  OF  LAMB  WITH  PUREE  OF  ONIONS  WITH  CREAM  (Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la  Purge 

d'Oignons  a  la  Oreme). 

Cut  off  the  end  of  the  shank  bone  of  a  leg  of  lamb;  pare  the  leg  to  shape  and  remove  the 
superfluous  fat;  roast  it  on  the  spit  or  else  in  a  baking  pan  in  a  moderate  oven,  pouring  over  some 
melted  fat,  and  basting  it  frequently;  salt  it  over  fifteen  minutes  before  serving.  Dress  and  trim 
the  handle  bone  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10),  and  serve  separately  a  puree  of  onions  with  cream  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Mince  two  pounds  of  white  onions,  plunge  them  into  boiling,  salted  water  and  let 
cook  for  five  minutes,  then  drain  very  dry,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter; 
cook  the  onions  colorless,  season  and  stir  in  two  tablespoon fuls  of  flour;  wet  with  cream  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  keep  the  mixture  consistent,  then  set  it  into  a  slack  oven,  and  when,  the  onions  have 
finished  cooking,  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Pour  the  puree  back  into  the  saucepan,  mix  well, 
heat  and  serve. 

(1717).  LOIN  OF  YEARLING  LAMB,  GERMAN  STYLB  (Longe  d'Agneau  Tardif  a  1'Allemande) 
Take  a  loin  of  yearling  lamb,  or  the  part  beginning  from  the  top  of  the  leg  and 
extending  as  far  as  the  first  rib  on  the  rack;  remove  the  aitchbone  without  injuring  the  minion 
fillet,  pare  carefully  the  fat  from  the  interior,  and  remove  the  tough  skin  from  the  sirloin,  season 
with  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Roll  this  loin  up,  tie  it  firmly  and  then  braise  it  in  a  mirepoix 
stock  (No.  419)  with  a  little  brandy  added.  It  will  take  two  hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours  to 
cook;  drain,  untie  and  set  it  under  a  light  weight  or  under  the  press  (No.  71)  and  when  cold  cut 
the  meat  into  half  heart-shaped  slices  and  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  baking  dish,  cover  over  with 
an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  grated  parmesan  cheese, 
pour  butter  over  and  set  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  it  has  attained  a  fine  color,  withdraw 
from  the  oven  and  drain  off  the  butter,  garnish  the  center  with  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms 
mixed  with  some  lighter  allemande  sauce  (No.  407). 

(1718).  LOIN  OF  LAMB  WITH  SAUTED  TOMATOES  (Longe  d'Agneau   aux  Tomates  Saute"es). 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  German  style  (No.  1717),  and  when  cold  and  the  slices  are  pared  heart- 
shaped,  cover  each  piece  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  nice 
color;  dress  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  inside  empty  space  with  split  and  peeled  tomatoes  that  have 
been  pressed  and  fried  in  butter  with  shallots  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley. 
Serve  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze  (No.  400)  separately. 

(1719).  MINCED  LAMB    A  LA  RIVERA  (Emmce"  d'Agneau  a  la  Rivera). 
Minces  are  generally  made  with  cooked  meats;  cut  quarter  inch  thick  slices  from  the  kernel 
part  of  a  cold  roast  leg  of  lamb,  pare  them  into  rounds  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  range 
them  in  a  sautoir  pouring  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  clear  gravy  (No.  404), 


558  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  port  wine,  heating  it  all  without  boiling.  Cut  some  sour  apples  into  quarters,  peel  and 
remove  the  cores  and  seeds;  lay  them  in  a  sautoir,  besprinkle  with  sugar  and  cook  them  in  a  slack 
oven  till  done.  Dress  the  minced  meat  in  a  circle  with  the  apples  in  the  center,  and  pour  the  port 
wine  sauce  over. 

(1720).  MINION  FILLETS  OP  LAMB  A  LA  BENOIST  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  a  la  Benoist), 

Pare  the  minion  fillets,  suppressing  all  fat  and  sinews;  cut  the  meats  transversely  into  small 
slices,  flatten,  pare  them  into  rounds,  and  when  ready  season  with  salt;  saute  them  in 
half  butter  and  half  oil,  drain  on  a  plate,  and  glaze  over  with  a  brush.  Lay  each  piece  of  meat 
on  a  thin  crust  of  bread  cut  the  same  size  as  the  noisettes,  and  on  top  of  every  one  place  a  slice  of 
cooked  foies-gras  cut  also  the  same  dimension;  cover  the  whole  quickly  with  a  pretty  thick  white 
wine  sauce  (No.  492),  in  which  grated  parmesan  has  been  added;  bestrew  with  grated  parmesan, 
and  glaze  the  surface  under  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123)  or  a  very  hot  oven.  Dress  on  a  hot  dish 
and  set  a  fine  slice  of  truffle  on  each;  serve  immediately. 

(1721).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  A  LA  LANDGEAVE  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  a  la 

Landgrave). 

Remove  all  the  sinews  from  one  or  more  minion  fillets;  season  with  salt,  sweet  oil,  and 
lemon  juice,  then  fry  them  in  butter,  and  dress  on  slices  of  bread  cut  one  and  a  quarter  inches 
across  by  five  inches  long.  Pour  over  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  or  allemande  sauce  (No.  407), 
having  it  well  buttered  and  seasoned  with  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  either  mignonette  or 
cayenne  pepper. 

(1722).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  A  LA  LEFOET  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  &  la  Lefort). 

Prepare  the  meats  as  for  the  Benoist  (No.  1720),  lay  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  cold  cooked 
marinade  (No.  114)  and  let  macerate  for  one  hour,  then  drain  and  wipe.  Roll  them  in  oil  to  broil 
over  a  brisk  fire  turning  them,  and  when  done  lay  on  a  hot  dish  over  slices  of  bread  trimmed  to 
the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  noisettes  and  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  fried  in 
clarified  butter  and  glazed  over.  Set  into  a  sauce-pan  half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and 
half  a  pint  of  gravy  (No.  404),  some  branches  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  garlic;  reduce  this  to 
a  third,  then  strain  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan;  at  the  very  first  boil  take  it  from  the  fire  and 
stir  in  two  ounces  of  minced  cepes;  pour  this  over  the  minion  fillets. 

(1723).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  AS  VENISON  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  en  Ohevreuil). 

Pare  six  or  eight  yearling  lamb  fillets  or  else  those  of  a  young  sheep,  by  suppressing  all  the 
fat  and  skin;  cut  them  up  through  their  length  and  on  the  bias,  then  beat  the  pieces  and  trim 
them  into  half  hearts;  lard  with  fine  lardons  (No.  1,  Fig  52),  and  lay  them  in  a  deep  china  dish 
to  cover  with  cooked  and  cold  marinade  (No.  114);  macerate  in  this  for  a  few  hours,  then  drain 
and  range  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  into  which  put  half  butter  and  half  oil;  saute  them 
briskly  and  when  done  drain;  glaze  the  surfaces  and  keep  them  for  a  few  moments  at  the  oven 
door.  Dress  on  half  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter  and  arranged  in  a  circle  on  a  dish; 
pour  over  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522). 

(1724).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  OEEAM  SAUCE  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  Sauce  k  la  Creme). 

Raise  the  minion  fillets  from  three  or  four  saddles  of  lamb,  free  them  of  their  fat  and  sinews, 
pare  and  lard  with  small  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  lay  them  in  a  vessel  to  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  minced  onions  and  nutmeg,  let  marinate  for  twelve  hours  turning  them  about 
occasionally,  then  drain  and  wipe  dry.  Fry  these  meats  in  some  good  hot  fat,  and  when  done 
drain  it  all  off  and  detach  the  glaze  with  some  fresh  cream  thickening  with  a  little  well  buttered 
bechamel  (No.  409).  Dress  in  a  circle  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1725).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  IN  SUEPEISE  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau  en  Surprise). 

Pare  and  suppress  all  the  fat  from  some  lamb  minion  fillets,  trim  them  into  half  hearts  and 
make  an  incision  on  one  side  and  flat  across  the  tnickness  and  almost  through  the  entire  width, 
but  without  separating  the  parts.  Fry  in  butter  a  chopped  shallot  and  four  ounces  of  finely 
chopped  truffles;  moisten  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  reduce  this  to  a  mere  nothing, 


LAMB.  559 

then  stir  in  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  a  thick- 
ening of  two  raw  egg-yolks;  till  the  incisions  with  this  mixture,  egg  and  bread  crumb  the  meat* 
and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter.  Pour  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  with  Madeira  over  after  dress- 
ing them  in  a  circle. 

(1726).  MINION  FILLETS  OP  LAMB  PRINTANIERE  (Pilets  Mignons  d'Agneau  Printaniere), 

Kemove  the  fillets  from  a  saddle  of  lamb,  free  them  from  sinews  and  fat.  Make  sufficient 
•lamb  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  to  fill  a  border  mold  indented  slightly  on  the  top  (Fig.  139), 
buttered  and  decorated  with  truffles;  then  fill  with  the  forcemeat  and  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
boiling  water  to  reach  to  half  its  heighth,  place  in  a  slack  oven  till  firm  to  the  touch.  Cut  up 
the  meat  into  bias  slices,  each  one  weighing  about  four  ounces  when  pared;  salt  and  fry  them  in 
butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  when  done,  take  them  out,  wipe  and  roll  in  a  sautoir  with  a  very  little  hot 
meat  glaze  (No.  402),  then  dress  them  at  once  crown-shaped  on  the  border  of  poached  forcemeat, 
fill  in  the  center  with  a  garnishing  of  spring  vegetables  and  pour  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
to  which  is  added  some  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  on  the  dish  and  serve  some  separately. 

(1727).  MINION  FILLETS  OF  LAMB  WITH  SHALLOT  SAUCE  AND  MARROW,  ROASTED  AND 
LARDED  (Filets  Mignons  Pique's  et  Rotis  k  la  Sauce  Echalote  et  Moelle). 

Lift  some  minion  fillets  and  suppress  from  them  all  the  fat  and  sinews,  then  lard  them  with 
very  fine  lard  on  s  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  lay  them  in  a  baking  pan,  salt  over  and  baste  with  drippings,  then 
roast  them  in  a  very  hot  oven.  Eight  or  ten  minutes  should  suffice  to  have  them  done  properly, 
dress  on  oblong  slices  of  toast  and  cover  with  some  clear  gravy  (No,  404)  and  serve  separately  a 
shallot  sauce  with  marrow. 

Shallot  Sauce  with  Marrow. — Place  in  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  butter  with  two  shallots,  cut 
in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares  as  much  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  as  butter,  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice 
and  chopped  parsley,  place  on  the  fire  for  two  minutes,  then  add  some  marrow,  cut  in  quarter  inch 
squares  and  previously  blanched  by  dipping  in  boiling  water. 

(1728).  MINION   FILLETS  OF  LAMB  WITH  TRUFFLES-SAUTED  (Filets  Mignons  d'Agneau 

SautSs  aux  Truffes). 

Suppress  the  fat  and  trim  neatly  two  lamb  fillets  half  heart-shape,  cut  incisions  on  one  side  to 
a  third  of  their  depth  and  season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  pepper,  stuff  with  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385),  and  close  the  opening  with  a  little  lamb  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92);  fry  them  quickly 
in  butter  and  when  they  are  stiffened  drain  off  the  fat  and  replace  it  by  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
meat  glaze  (No.  402);  roll  the  fillets  in  this,  dress  them  on  a  dish  and  put  a  little  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  in  with  the  glaze  remaining  in  the  pan,  let  this  cook  and  reduce,  then  add  a  piece  of 
butter  and  some  lemon  juice  to  the  sauce.  Pour  over  the  fillets  range  around  slices  of  truffles 
that  have  been  moistened  with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

(1729).  NECK  OF  LAMB  WITH  CABBAGE  (Collet  d'Agneau  aux  Choux). 
Cut  the  neck  a  little  long  on  the  rib  side;  leave  four  rib  bones  on  it;  bone  it  all  thoroughly, 
remove  the  sinewy  and  fat  parts,  then  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  stuff  with  lamb  forcemeat  made 
of  cold  finely  chopped  lamb,  an  equal  quantity  of  soaked  and  pressed  out  bread-crumbs,  fried,  chop- 
ped onions,  minced  cooked  mushrooms,  chopped  parsley,  chopped  up  cooked  ham  and  raw  eggs. 
Fill  the  neck  with  this,  sew  up  the  meat  so  as  to  enclose  well  the  stuffing  and  braise  it  in  a  very 
little  stock  (No.l94a)  for  three  hours;  remove  the  threads,  glaze,  dress  and  surround  with  cabbage. 
Strain  the  stock,  add  to  it  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  bring  it  to  a  boil,  skim  off  the  fat  care- 
fully and  when  reduced  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1730).   NOISETTES  OF    SHOULDER  OF    LAMB,    EPICUREAN    (Noisettes  d'E'paule  d'Agneau 

Epicurienne). 

These  noisettes  or  glands  are  found  in  the  fatty  part  of  the  shoulder  near  the  shoulder  blade; 
remove  all  the  skin  which  envelops  them.  Fill  the  bottom  of  a  flat  saucepan  with  thin  slices 
of  fat  pork,  lay  the  noisettes  on  top,  and  moisten  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  cover 
over  with  more  slices  of  the  pork,  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven  from  three-quarters  to  one  hour 


560  THE    EPICUREAN. 

according  to  their  size.  "When  the  noisettes  are  done,  strain  the  stock  through  a  fine  tammy  and 
skim  well  the  fat.  Decorate  a  low  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  fill  it  with 
chicken  and  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  poach  in  a  bain-marie,  the  same  as  a  timbale;  then 
unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  garnish  the  interior  of  the  border  with  mushrooms  stewed  and  moistened 
with  reduced  cream  and  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409).  Range  on  top  the  noisettes  from  which  the 
fat  has  been  removed  and  then  glazed  in  their  own  stock  after  it  has  been  thoroughly  reduced. 

1731),  POEE  QUAETEE  OP  LAMB  WITH  STUFFED  TOMATOES-ON  THE  SPIT  (Quartier  de 

Devant  d'Agneau  k  la  Broche  aux  Tomates  Farcies). 

Detach  the  shoulder  from  the  rack  on  the  covered  rib  side  and  leave  the  neck  side  without 
removing  it;  bone  the  shoulder,  leaving  only  the  end  bone,  and  pass  a  skewer  through  the  shoulder 
and  the  breast;  adjust  or  lay  it  on  the  spit,  fastening  the  two  ends  with  a  strong  string;  run  a 
skewer  through  the  meat  near  the  shoulder,  having  it  run  through  the  hole  in  the  spit  to  pre- 
vent the  meat  from  slipping  while  cooking.  Cook  in  front  of  a  brisk  fire  basting  frequently;  it 
will  take  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes;  when  nearly  done,  salt  it  over.  Dress  the  meat  on  a 
very  hot  dish  and  serve  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separately;  garnish  the  end  bone  with  a  frill  (No.  10), 
and  set  around  baked  stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2842). 

(1732),  HIND  QUAETEE  OP  LAMB  WITH  MINT  SAUCE  OE  COLBEET  SAUCE  (Quartier  de  Derriere 

d'Agneau  k  la  Sauce  Menthe  ou  k  la  Sauce  Colbert), 

Pare  very  carefully  a  good  hind  quarter  of  lamb;  suppress  and  pare  the  end  bone  or  handle 
bone  after  sawing  it  two  inches  below  the  joint  of  the  leg;  cut  away  the  meat  two  inches  down, 
then  scrape  the  bone  clean;  now  lay  the  quarter  in  a  baking-pan  (Fig.  136),  salt  it  evenly,  and  baste 
with  dripping  fat;  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  let  cook  for  three-quartars  to  one  hour.  Dress 
on  a  long  hot  dish,  trim  the  handle  with  a  frill  (No.  10),  pour  a  little  of  its  gravy  over,  and  serve 
with  a  separate  mint  sauce  (No.  616)  or  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 

(1733).  EACK  OF  LAMB,  CASTILLANE  SAUOE-BEOILED  (Carre*  d'Agneau  Grille"  a  la  Sauce 

Castillane). 

Have  a  good,  tender  rack  of  lamb;  remove  the  chine  bone,  cut  the  ribs  very  short,  and  pare 
the  fillets  to  the  bone  without  taking  any  meat  from  the  ribs;  separate  all  these  ribs  by  giving  sharp 
blows  with  the  dull  edge  of  a  knife  on  the  chine  bone,  to  break  the  bones,  but  without  cutting 
through  the  meats;  pass  a  skewer  between  the  middle  of  the  rack,  and  the  rib  bones  in  such  a  way 
as  to  uphold  the  rack  in  its  original  shape;  dip  it  into  melted  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  roll  it  in  white  bread-crumbs,  then  broil  over  a  slow  fire  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 
Dress,  withdraw  the  skewer,  and  serve  with  a  separate  Castillane  sauce  (No.  443),  or  any  other 
suitable  one,  such  as  bordelaise  (No.  436),  or  Pe"rigueux  (No.  517). 

(1734)  EAOK  OF  LAMB  WITH  AETIOHOKES-SAUTED  (Oarr6  d'Agneau  Saute"  aux  Artichauts). 
Cut  short  the  breasts  of  two  racks  of  lamb;  take  out  the  chine  bones  and  put  the  meats  into  a 
sauteing-pan  with  melted  fat  pork  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  containing  aromatics  and  a  clove  of  gar- 
lic, season  and  fry  over  a  brisk  fire.  Aside  from  this  cut  eight  small,  slightly  pared,  tender  and 
raw  artichoke  bottoms  in  two;  lay  them  in  another  saute  pan  with  some  oil,  then  season  and  fry 
them  over  a  moderate  fire.  As  soon  as  the  lamb  is  nicely  done,  drain  off  the  fat,  pour  over  half  a 
bottleful  of  white  wine  and  let  reduce  to  a  glaze;  baste  the  meats  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce, 
(No.  413)  and  take  them  from  the  fire  to  lay  on  a  hot  dish;  suppress  the  garnished  parsley  and 
surround  the  meats  with  the  artichokes. 

(1735).  EAOK  OF  LAMB  WITH  PUEEE  OF  SPLIT  PEAS-LAEDED  AND  EOASTED  (Carre". . 

d'Agneau  PiquS  et  Eoti  a  la  Pure"e  de  Pois  Sees). 

Select  a  good  tender  rack  of  lamb;  suppress  the  chine  bone,  cut  the  rib  bones  short  and 
straight  and  pare  the  fillet  meats  without  taking  any  from  the  ribs;  lard  the  meat  lengthwise  with 
medium  sized  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  then  wrap  the  rack  in  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper  and  attach  it 
on  the  spit  fastening  it  with  a  skewer;  let  it  roast  for  twenty  or  thirty-five  minutes  while  basting 
frequently;  a  few  moments  before  serving  unwrap  to  brown  it  nicely,  then  salt  it  over,  withdraw 
the  skewers  and  serve  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  poured  over,  and  some  more  in  a  sauce- 
boat  to  be  served  at  the  same  time.  The  above  dish  is  to  be  served  with  a  garnishing  of  puree 
of  split  peas  (No.  724)  in  a  vegetable  dish. 


LAMB.  561 

(1736).  DOUBLE  OE  SADDLE  01  LAMB  WITH  THE  LEGS  AND  POTATO  OEOQUETTES 

(Double  ou  Selle  d'Agneau  avec  les  Gigots  aux  Croquettes  de  Pommes). 

Cut  half  a  lamb  crosswise  that  is  the  entire  saddle  with  the  two  legs,  leaving  one  of  the  ribs 
attached  to  the  saddle,  saw  off  the  knuckle  of  the  leg  bones,  make  a  handle  two  inches  long  by 
removing  the  meat  and  scraping  the  bone  well ;  roll  the  flanks  under,  tie  the  loin  with  three  rounds 
of  string  having  a  knot  at  each  round,  then  wrap  the  meat  in  a  very  heavy  buttered  paper  and  let 
roast  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven.  Unwrap  it  fifteen  minutes  before  serving  so  as  to  brown  it 
nicely,  then  dress  and  glaze,  garnish  around  the  dish  with  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782)  and  decorate 
both  legs  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  serve  separately  a  rather  light  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(1737).  FOEE  SADDLE  OP  LAMB  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Selle  d'Agneau  de  Devant  aux  Marrons). 
Select  a  fore  saddle  of  lamb  with  the  two  racks,  lift  off  the  shoulders  and  cut  the  rack  bones  in 
such  a  way  that  the  saddle  is  not  more  than  four  inches  high  through  its  entire  length;  suppress 
the  skin  covering  the  fat  and  then  roast  it  in  a  pan  in  the  oven;  this  will  take  about  twenty 
minutes.  When  done  dress  on  a  long  dish,  glaze  and  garnish  around  the  meat  with  peeled  chest- 
nuts braised  with  branches  of  celery,  and  pour  over  some  gravy  (No.  404)  or  else  serve  it  separately. 

(1738).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB,  A  LA  BEIGHTON  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Brighton). 
Prepare  and  trim  a  saddle  of  lamb  as  explained  for  the  braised  saddle  (No.  1745);  cover  it  over 
with  "  crepruette, "  (caul  fat)  or  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Boil  twelve  to  fifteen  quarts  of  soup  stock  in  a 
saucepan,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  two  quartered  carrots  and  two  onions,  one  of  them  having  two  cloves  in  it,  then  boil  and 
skim.  About  one  hour  and  a  quarter  before  serving  put  in  the  saddle  and  let  boil  unceasingly  for 
an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  according  to  its  size;  when  done  drain  it  off,  untie,  glaze 
and  dress;  garnish  around  with  Villeroi  cauliflower  (No.  2716),  and  serve  a  Viennese  sauce  (No. 
553)  separately. 

(1739).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB  A  LA  CHANCELIEEE  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Ohanceliere). 

Prepare  the  saddle  the  same  as  for  the  turnips  (No.  1745),  and  when  nearly  cooked  drain, 
and  pare  nicely  and  evenly;  place  in  a  baking  pan,  cover  the  top  with  a  coating  of  beaten  eggs, 
and  dredge  fine  bread-crumbs  over,  pour  on  some  melted  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven.  Strain 
the  broth,  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze  and  add  to  this  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  bechamel 
(No.  409);  serve  this  with  the  saddle.  Line  some  tartlet  molds  with  fragments  of  very  thin  puff 
paste  (No.  146),  fill  them  with  well-cooked  fat  rice  stirred  in  with  some  bechamel  (No.  409)  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  nutmeg  and  the  well-beaten  egg-whites;  fifteen  minutes  before  serving  the 
meat  set  these  in  the  oven  and  when  they  are  cooked  range  them  around  the  saddle  and  serve. 

(1740).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB  A  LA  FLOEENTINE  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Florentine). 

Roast  a  saddle  of  yearling  lamb  in  the  oven  having  it  laid  in  a  baking  pan;  salt  and  baste 
with  dripping.  It  will  take  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  to  have  it  properly  roasted  if  the 
oven  be  very  hot.  When  done,  dress  and  glaze  the  meat,  surround  it  with  a  garnishing  of 
artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Florence  (No.  2677),  and  serve  with  a  separate  white  Colbert  sauce 
(No.  451). 

(1741).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB  A  LA  PAGANINI  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Paganini). 
Have  the  saddle  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  Florentine  (No.  1740);  dress  the  meat 
and  garnish  around  with  slices  of  foies-gras  intercalated  with  slices  of  truffles;  cover  these  with  a 
supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  and  lay  on  top  partridge  quenelles  decorated  with  truffles.  The  saddle 
may  be  garnished  with  skewers  thrust  into  it  composed  of  double  cocks'-combs  and  glazed  truffles. 
Serve  a  sauce-bowl  of  supreme  sauce  at  the  same  time  as  the  saddle. 

(1742).  HIND  SADDLE  OP  LAMB  A  LA  SANFOED  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Sanford). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  meat  the  same  as  for  Florentine  (No.  1740),  but  instead  of  artichoke 
bottoms  have  a  garnishing  of  croustades  made  of  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  and  filled  with  a 
Sanford  apple  sauce  (No.  588)  pushed  in  through  a  pocket,  lay  on  top  of  each  a  paste  cover  made  by 
having  three  thin  flats  of  paste  of  different  dimensions  the  smallest  one  on  top,  serve  separately 
some  rich  gravy  (No.  404). 


6C  TIIK    EPICUREAN. 

(1743).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB,  AMEEIOAN   STYLE  (Belle  d'Agneau  a  1'Americaine). 

Cut  off  the  hind  saddle  between  the  first  and  second  ribs,  remove  both  legs,  cutting  them  away 
%  a  round  from  off  the  loin  and  toward  the  flanks;  suppress  also  a  thin  peel  covering  the  skin  and 
aome  of  the  loin  and  kidney  fat;  roll  the  flanks  over  on  themselves,  keep  them  in  position  with  four 
turns  of  twine,  then  run  the  spit  between  the  twine  and  saddle;  hold  the  latter  in  position  with 
several  skewers  which  should  run  through  both  the  saddle  and  spit  (Fig.  344),  then  have  a  suffi- 
ciently strong  skewer  to  run  into  the  loin  marrow  bone  fastening  it  securely  on  the  spit  with  a 
string,  place  over  the  saddle  a  long  skewer  held  to  the  spit  with  two  rings — one  at  each  end  of  the 
saddle  or  instead  of  rings  strong  twine  may  be  used;  cover  the  meat  with  heavy  buttered  paper  and 
maintain  it  in  position  with  four  rows  of  string.  The  cradle  spit  (Fig.  116)  is  better  adapted  for 
roasting  this  cut  of  meat;  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  place  the  saddle  in  the  middle.  One  hour 
before  serving,  put  the  saddle  in  the  .spit  and  ten  minutes  before  needed,  unwrap,  glaze,  and  dress 
on  a  dish;  serve  with  a  separate  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(1744),  HIND  SADDLE  OP  LAMB,  FEENOH  STYLE  (Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Frangaise), 

Pare  a  saddle  suppressing  the  skin  and  superfluous  fat,  roll  the  flaps  or  flanks  under;  truss  and 
braise  it  in  a  braziere  (Fig.  134)  with  bits  of  fat  pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions;  season  and  let 
the  meat  smother  while  turning  it  over;  cover  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  and  reduce  it  slowly 
to  a  glaze,  then  recover  to  its  exact  heighth  with  hot  broth,  and  let  cook  with  the  lid  on  over  a  slow 
fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  and  turning  frequently;  should  it  be  insufficiently  moistened, 
add  more  hot  broth.  When  the  saddle  is  almost  done,  drain  and  trim  it;  strain  the  stock,  skim  off 
the  fat  carefully,  and  return  the  meat  to  the  braziere  to  finish  cooking,  and  glaze  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Dressing. — Drain  the  saddle,  detach  both  fillets  from  the  top,  and  cut  them  into  even  slices,  then 
return  them  to  their  original  position;  lay  the  saddle  on  a  dish  that  can  be  placed  in  the  oven.  Have 
three  quartsof  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  cream  and  mushroom  broth;  when  sufficiently 
reduced  take  it  from  the  fire  and  stir  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  parmesan,  three  ounces 
of  butter,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper;  beat  it  thoroughly  until  partially  cold,  then  cover  the 
saddle  with  it  smoothing  the  surface  neatly;  bestrew  with  grated  parmesan,  and  finish  baking  in  a 
hot  oven.  Pour  a  little  of  the  stock  around  the  meat,  serving  the  remainder  separately,  and  send 
to  the  table  accompanied  by  a  vegetable  dish  of  glazed  cucumbers  (No.  2733). 

(1745).  HIND  SADDLE  OP  LAMB  WITH  MASHED  TTJBNIPS-BBAISED  (Selle  d'Agneau  Braised 

a  la  Pur6e  de  Navets). 

Trim  a  saddle  of  yearling  lamb,  suppress  the  skin  that  covers  it  and  the  surplus  of  fat  near  the 
tail;  take  away  very  little  of  the  kidney  fat;  roll  the  flanks  under  and  tie  the  saddle  with  four  rows 
of  string  making  a  knot  at  each  row;  lay  it  in  a  low  braziere  lined  with  fragments  of  fat  pork, 
sliced  onions  and  carrots,  celery  roots  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf, 
and  let  the  meat  smother  while  turning  it  over;  moisten  with  one  pint  of  hot  stock  (No.  194a); 
after  it  has  slowly  fallen  to  a  glaze  cover  it  to  its  height  with  more  hot  stock  and  let  it  fall  very 
slowly  to  a  glaze  once  more,  then  remoisten  to  its  full  height  and  cook  while  covered  on  a  slow 
fire,  turning  it  over  and  basting  it  frequently.  Should  the  stock  reduce  too  freely  then  add  more  hot 
stock.  Two  hours  and  a  half  will  suffice  for  the  cooking,  then  drain  and  pare  the  meat,  strain  the 
stock,  and  remove  the  fat  and  return  it  once  more  to  the  braziere  with  the  saddle  and  let  this  cook 
for  half  an  hour  longer,  glazing  it  in  a  moderate  oven;  then  dress  and  surround  with  mashed  tur- 
nips pushed  through  a  pocket  into  round  tartlet  crusts  and  laid  one  beside  the  other;  pour 
one-third  of  the  stock  over  the  meat  and  thicken  the  remainder  with  reduced  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)and  Madeira,  serving  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1746).  HIND  SADDLE  OF  LAMB  WITH  GEAVY-EOASTED    (Selle  d'Agneau  Eotie  au  Jus). 

Trim  a  saddle  of  lamb  by  removing  the  legs  and  skin  that  covers  it,  also  a  little  of  the  fat  on 
the  thick  loin  end  and  kidneys;  roll  the  flaps  over  on  themselves  and  tie  the  saddle  firmly  with  four 
rows  of  string  making  a  knot  at  each  row;  lay  it  in  a  baking  pan,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  pour  some 
fat  on  top  and  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven;  it  will  take  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to 
roast  a  saddle  without  the  legs.  Serve  the  meat  with  some  good  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 


LAMB.  563 

(1747)  SLICES  OP  SADDLE  OP  LAMB  WITH  PUEEE  OF  BEANS  (Tranches  de  Selle  d'Agneau  a 

la  PurSe  de  Haricots). 

Cut  transversal  slices  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness  from  a  small  saddle  of  lamb;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  fry  till  done  in  clarified  butter.  Dress  them  in  a  straight  row  on  a  long  dish, 
one  piece  overlapping  the  other;  surround  with  a  puree  of  white  beans  (No.  706)  pushed  through  a 
pastry  bag  (Fig.  179).  Cover  the  meats  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  having  some  chopped 
fresh  mushrooms  added  to  it,  and  serve  some  of  the  same  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1748).  SHOULDEE  OP  LAMB  A  LA  BENTON  Epaule  d'Agneau  a  la  BentonX 

Bone  a  shoulder  of  lamb  retaining  the  end  or  the  handle  bone;  saw  off  the  knuckle  an  inch 
from  the  handle  and  season  the  meat  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  roll  it  into  an  elongated  shape, 
tie  it  round  with  six  rows  of  string  making  a  knot  at  each  row.  Fry  the  shoulder  lightly  in  a 
saucepan  containing  butter  and  melted  fat  pork  and  when  lightly  browned,  drain  off  the  butter 
and  moisten  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  its  height  with  stock  (No.  194a),  add  a  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  bay  leaf,  as  much  thyme  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  boil  and  skim,  then  cook  in  a  slow 
oven  for  about  two  hours,  basting  the  meat  frequently  with  its  own  broth.  Twenty  minutes  before 
serving,  put  in  four  ounces  of  minced  onions  fried  to  a  light  color  in  butter  and  finish  to  cook  and 
glaze  the  shoulder.  Have  two  pounds  of  medium  sized,  peeled,  quartered  and  cored  apples,  range 
them  on  a  buttered  sauteing  pan,  pour  over  a  little  butter  and  sprinkle  with  sugar,  then  cook  them 
in  a  slack  oven.  Prepare  and  fry  two  pounds  of  potatoes  cut  in  cylinders  one  inch  in  circum- 
ference, and  cut  across  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  then 
drain,  wipe  and  fry  in  white  frying  lard  until  they  assume  a  nice  color,  then  salt  over.  Drain 
the  shoulder,  lay  it  in  the  center  of  a  dish  and  glaze  it  over;  strain  and  skim  the  fat  from  the 
stock,  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  syrup  and  pour  a  little  of  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish; 
set  the  apples  at  both  ends  and  arrange  the  fried  potatoes  at  the  sides;  serve  the  reduced  gravy  at 
the  same  time,  but  separately. 

(1749).  SHOULDEE  OF  LAMB,  A  LA  DESSAIX  (Epaule  d'Agneau  a  la  Dessaix), 
Bone  two  shoulders  of  lamb  leaving  on  only  the  end  or  handle  bones;  remove  all  the  sinews 
and  fat,  have  some  chopped  farce  (No.  68)  put  the  whole  into  a  mortar  to  pound,  season,  and  add 
a  handful  of  soaked  and  pressed  bread-crumbs,  one  whole  egg  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine 
herbs  (No.  385;;  use  this  forcemeat  for  stuffing  the  shoulders,  then  sew  them  up  so  as  to  enclose 
the  stuffing,  and  lay  them  in  a  narrow  saucepan  lined  with  bits  of  fat  pork  and  minced  roots; 
season,  moisten  the  meats  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a),  and  when  they  are  cooked,  and  of  a  fine 
color,  drain  them  off,  untie,  and  remove  from  the  end  bone  the  meat  so  as  to  be  able  to  trim  them 
with  paper  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  on  a  dish,  pour  over  some  of  their  own  stock,  and  reduce  the 
remainder  with  as  much  espagnole  (No.  414),  until  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  sauce  is  obtained: 
garnish  around  with  half  heart-shaped  croustades  made  of  mashed  potatoes,  dipped  in  eggs,  thei 
in  bread-crumbs,  the  surfaces  smoothed  nicely,  and  then  slit  them  all  round  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
from  the  edge;  and  fry;  when  finished,  drain,  remove  the  covers,  empty  and  refill  the  insides  with  a 
small  vegetable  raaoedoine  (No.  680)  combined  with  bechamel  (No.  409),  serving  a  sauce-boatful 
of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  at  the  same  time. 

(1750).  SHOULDEE  OF  LAMB  A  LA  GAENIEE  (Epaule  d'Agneau  a  la  Gamier). 
After  boning  two  shoulders  of  lamb,  leaving  on  only  the  end  or  handle  bones,  stuff  the 
insides  with  lamb  forcemeat  (No.  92);  braise  them  the  same  as  for  a  la  Benton  (No.  1748); 
then  drain,  skim,  and  reduce  the  stock  with  an  equal  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Dress 
and  glaze  the  shoulders,  then  garnish  around  with  whole  chestnuts  (No.  654);  braised  celery  (No. 
2721);  cover  the  garnishing  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  what  remains  separately. 

(1751).  SHOULDEE  OF  LAMB  WITH  OUOUMBEES  (Epaule  d'Agneau  aux  Concombres). 

Prepare  and  braise  two  shoulders  of  spring  lamb  as  explained  for  a  la  Benton  (No.  1748),  when 
done,  untie  and  glaze;  dress  them  either  on  a  garnishing  of  cucumbers  with  Danish  sauce 
(No.  457),  or  else  on  a  macedoine  garnishing  (No.  680),  or  a  jardiniere  (No.  677).  Strain  the 
stock,  remove  all  its  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  syrup,  serving  it  in  a  sauce-boat 
the  same  time  as  the  shoulders. 

These  shoulders  may  be  dressed  in  the  shape  of  ducks  or  hornpipes,  dishing  them  upon  the 
same  garnishings. 


564  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

(1752).  SHOULDER  OF  LAMB  WITH  GLAZED  VEGETABLES-STUFFED  (Epaule  d'Agneau  Farcie 

aux  Legumes  Glace"s). 

Boil  an  unsraoked  red  beef  tongue  in  water  for  three  hours  before  serving,  cut  it  up  into  quarter 
inch  thick  slices  and  from  these  remove  two  and  halt'  inch  diameter  pieces  with  a  round  cutter,  keep 
them  warm  in  a  sautoir  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a).  Bone  thoroughly  two  shoulders  of  spring  lamb, 
suppress  the  fat  and  sinews,  then  season  the  inside,  cover  the  surfaces  with  a  thin  layer  of  lamb 
forcemeat  (No.92)and  bestrew  with  fine  cooked  herbs  (No.  385).  Roll  the  shoulders  lengthwise,  tie 
them  firmly  so  to  keep  them  in  proper  shape,  then  braise  in  a  little  moistening  without  browning. 
Drain  and  trim  the  ends,  then  cut  the  remainder  of  the  meat  into  half  inch  thick  slices,  pare  them 
rounded  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  and  dress  them  in  a  straight  row  on  a  circle  intercalat- 
ing each  slice  with  one  of  tongue;  arrange  either  around  or  in  the  center,  according  to  the  way  they 
are  dressed  with  glazed  carrots,  turnips  and  small  onions;  strain  the  stock,  skim  off  its  fat  and 
reduce  it  with  espagnole  (No.  414)  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  serve  this 
separately. 

(1753).  SHOULDEES  OF  LAMB  WITH  PUREE  OF  CELERY-STUFFED  (Epaules  d'Agneau  Farcies 

a  la  Pure~e  de  Ofleri). 

Bone  two  shoulders  of  lamb  keeping  on  the  handle  bone  and  sawing  the  knuckle  one  inch 
from  it;  free  the  meat  of  fat  and  sinews,  pare  nicely,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg. 

Dressing  for  Stuffing  the  Shoulders. — Take  one  pound  of  sausage  meat,  half  a  pound  of  finely 
chopped  raw  ham,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  onions,  half  a  pound  of  minced  mush- 
rooms, two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dry  bread-crumbs,  two 
whole  eggs  and  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Fill  the  two  shoulders  with  this  dressing, 
roll  them  up  and  sew  them  in  such  a  way  that  none  of  it  can  escape,  garnish  the  bottom  of  a  sauce- 
pan with  slices  of  fat  pork,  set  the  shoulders  on  top  and  moisten  with  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No. 
419);  boil  and  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  As  soon  as  the  shoulders  are  done  glaze 
and  strain  the  stock,  remove  all  its  fat  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  syrup.  Dress  the 
shoulder  either  on  a  celery  puree  (No.  711)  or  a  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  or  one  of  artichokes  (No. 
704),  or  else  of  cucumbers  (No.  714),  macedoine  (No.  680),  or  jardiniere  (No.  677);  trim  the  handle 
bones  with  frills  (No.  10)  and  serve  the  gravy  apart. 

(1754).  STEWED  LAMB,  DUGLERE  (Ragout  d'Agneau  a  la  Dugle're"). 

Have  an  equal  weight  of  the  rack,  breast,  and  loin  of  lamb;  suppress  the  skin  from  the  rack, 
also  the  chine  bone,  and  cut  the  ribs  quite  short  nearly  level  with  the  large  fillet,  then  divide  these 
meat  across  in  even  pieces  each  one  being  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide.  Cut  the  breast  into  inch 
and  a  half  squares  after  paring  and  suppressing  the  skin;  cutoff  all  the  fat  from  the  loin  and 
remove  the  skin  and  chine  bone,  then  divide  it  into  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  pieces.  Fry  these 
meats  colorless  in  either  lard  or  butter  with  two  medium  onions,  one  small  carrot  cut  lengthwise 
in  four  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  when  they  begin  to  brown  drain  off  the  fat  and  moisten  to  half  the 
heighth  with  stock  (No.l94a)  adding  a  garnished  bouquet  (No.  123)  ;let  the  liquid  fall  to  a  glaze  not 
allowing  it  at  any  time  to  cook  too  fast,  and  keeping  it  well  covered ;  have  the  meats  brown  nicely, 
then  remoisten  to  their  heighth  and  reduce  this  liquid.  When  half  cooked  drain  off  the  piece  to  pare 
and  return  them  again  to  the  saucepan  with  the  broth  and  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine;  when 
the  meat  is  thoroughly  done  and  the  liquid  reduced  to  half,  throw  in  some  fresh  green  peas, 
young  carrots,  small  onions,  small  new  potatoes  and  new  flageolet  beans,  first  putting  in  those 
taking  the  longest  to  cook,  having  previously  browned  the  onions  in  a  frying  pan.  Finish  cooking. 
Dress  the  meats  around  the  vegetables,  skim  the  fat  from  the  stock  and  strain  it  over  all. 

(1755).  STEWED  LAMB,  NAVARIN  (Ragout  d'Agneau  Navarin). 

Suppress  all  the  bones  of  a  leg  of  lamb,  remove  the  fat  and  sinews,  then  cut  it  up  into 
squares  an  inch  and  a  half  in  size;  put  these  pieces  into  a  bowl  to  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  garlic  and  cloves,  also  some  Madeira 
wine,  let  marinate  for  seven  hours;  after  the  lapse  of  this  time  drain  the  meat  and  fry  with  grated 
fat  pork  and  half  a  pound  of  small  dice  pieces  of  blanched  bacon;  moisten  with  the  Madeira  from 
the  marinade  adding  also  the  aromatics  and  some  brown  sauce  (No.414);  cook  the  whole  over  a  slow 
tire  for  two  and  a  half  hours  skimming  and  adding  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine.  After  the 


LAMB.  565 

stew  has  been  cooking  for  one  hour  put  in  with  it  a  quart  of  fried  and  slightly  browned  turnip 
balls.  Three-quarters  of  an  hour  later  both  meat  and  turnips  should  be  done,  skim  nicely,  season 
to  taste  and  serve,  dressing  the  meat  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  the  turnips  around  and  the  strained 
sauce  over  all. 

(1756).  STEWED  LAMB,  PAKISTAN  STYLE  (Ragout  d'AgneaualaParisienne). 
Bone  and  cut  off  all  fat  and  sinews  from  a  shoulder  of  lamb;  divide  it  into  one  inch  and  three- 
quarters  pieces  and  fry  these  either  in  butter  or  good  fat;  when  the  meat  is  a  golden  color,  drain 
off  all  the  fat  and  moisten  with  one  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No. 414),  a  pint  of  stock  (No.l94a)  and  a 
pint  of  white  wine;  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  garlic,  salt  and  pep- 
per. Boil,  skim  and  simmer,  and  after  it  has  been  cooking  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  put  in  forty 
small  onions  fried  in  butter  and  as  many  potato  balls,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  circumference, 
half  a  pint  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  and  a  pound  of  small,  cooked  mushroom  heads;  it 
takes  about  an  hour  and  a  half  to  cook  this  stew  properly.  When  cooked  remove  the  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, skim  off  the  fat  from  the  stew  and  dress  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  surround  it  with  the  vegetables 
and  pour  the  strained  sauce  over  all. 

(1757).  STEWED  LAMB,  PEEUVIAN  STYLE  (Eagout  d'Agneau  a  la  Pe~ruvienne). 
Cut  up  into  inch  and  a  half  squares  one  leg  of  raw  yearling  lamb;  season  the  pieces  with  salt, 
pepper,  allspice,  two  ounces  of  minced  onions  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over;  let  macerate 
in  this  for  two  hours,  then  drain  them  off  and  fry  in  butter;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and 
espagnole  sauce  (No.414)— half  of  each — to  three-quarters  of  the  height  of  the  meats,  then  cook  in 
a  slow  oven.  After  the  meat  is  done,  skim  the  fat  from  the  stock  and  add  to  the  stew  one  quart  of 
cooked  Lima  beans  (No.  2699);  let  the  whole  simmer  on  the  range  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  dress 
with  the  sauce  and  garnish  around  with  sweet  peppers  fried  in  oil. 

(1758).  STEWED  LAMB,  IKISH  STYLE  (Eagout  d'Agneau  a  1' Mandate). 
Cut  some  lamb  tendrons  into  squares:  shorten  the  rib  bones  of  a  rack,  cutting  it  about  level 
with  the  large  fillet,  suppress  the  skin  and  chine  bone,  and  with  the  parings  of  both  these  meats, 
prepare  a  mutton  broth.  Plunge  the  tendrons  into  boiling  water  placed  in  a  saucepan,  put  it  on  the 
fire,  skim,  then  drain  and  pare  the  pieces  and  return  them  to  the  same  saucepan  with  two  small 
onions,  one  garnished  bouquet,  two  finely  shredded  raw  potatoes  and  proper  seasoning;  moisten  to 
the  height  of  the  meat  with  the  prepared  broth,  strained  and  free  of  fat.  Cook  the  stew  over  a 
moderate  fire  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  lamb  is  nearly  done,  the  liquid  is  found  reduced  to  half 
and  slightly  thickened,  and  the  potatoes  well  dissolved,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy;  now  add 
to  it  a  garnishing  of  raw  potatoes  pared  like  olives  and  about  the  size  of  a  walnut;  and  small 
blanched  onions,  also  the  meat;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  continue  to  cook,  both  the 
meat  and  potatoes  and  onions  should  be  done  at  the  same  time.  Dress  the  lamb  in  a  deep  dish 
with  the  potatoes  and  onions  around  and  strain  the  sauce  over. 

(1759).  STEWED  LAMB  WITH  TUENIPS  (Eagout  d'Agneau  aux  Navets). 
To  be  made  with  two  pounds  of  shoulder  and  one  pound  of  breast  of  lamb.  Cut  up  into  one 
and  three-quarters  to  two  inch  pieces,  the  best  part  of  a  shoulder  and  breast,  having  two-thirds  of 
the  shoulder  to  one-third  of  the  breast.  Heat  some  lard  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  meat  and  brown 
while  stirring,  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  when  of  a  nice  reddish  brown,  dredge 
over  a  spoonful  of  flour,  five  minutes  later,  drain  off  the  fat  and  moisten  to  a  little  more  than  the 
heighthof  the  meat  with  broth  (No.l94a),  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay 
leaf  and  a  few  grains  of  pepper.  Boil  together  for  five  minutes,  then  withdraw  the  saucepan  to  a 
slower  fire  in  order  to  cook  the  lamb  without  reducing  the  liquid  too  rapidly;  pour  in  at  intervals 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  broth  and  when  the  meat  is  three-quarters  done,  mix  into  the  stew  a  garnishing 
of  turnips  shaped  into  balls  or  else  quartered,  browned  in  a  pan  with  butter.  Finish  to 
cook  the  turnips  in  the  stew.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  rub  a  piece  of  garlic  on  an  iron  spoon 
and  let  it  steep  in  the  stew  for  a  few  moments,  dress  the  meat  on  to  a  dish,  garnish  around 
with  the  turnips  and  pour  the  strained  sauce  over. 

(1760).  LAMB  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  FINANOIEEE  (Bis  d'Agneau  a  la  Financiere). 
Lard  with  lardons  (No.  4,  Fig.  52)  some  even- sized  lamb  sweetbreads  previously  parboiled,  re- 
freshed and  put  to  cool  under  a  weight,  range  them  closely  together  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fat 
pork,  roots  and  minced  onions;  moisten  to  half  their  heighth  with  stock  (No.  194a),  and  let  this 


566  THE    EPICUREAN. 

liquid  fall  to  a  glaze;  moisten  once  more  and  finish  cooking  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  over  fre- 
quently in  order  to  glaze  them  well.  Prepare  a  rice  border,  shaping  it  by  hand  and  channeling  with 
a  piece  of  wet  turnip,  or  else  a  molded  one  may  be  used,  pour  some  butter  over  this,  and  brown  it 
in  the  oven.  Range  in  the  center  of  the  border  a  financiere  garnishing  composed  of  truffles, 
quenelles,  escalops  of  foies-gras,  mushrooms,  and  cock's-combs,  pouring  over  a  financiere  sauce 
(No.  464),  place  the  glazed  sweetbreads  on  top  of  this  garnishing. 

(1761).  LAMB  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  JOINVILLE  (Ris  d'Agneau  a  la  Joinville). 
Braise  some  lambs'  sweetbreads  as  indicated  for  the  financiere  (No.  1760).  Prepare  and 
pound  a  border  made  of  forcemeat  (No.  79),  place  it  on  a  dish;  lay  a  croustade  made  either 
of  bread  or  paste  in  the  center  of  the  border;  place  the  sweetbreads  after  they  are  well 
glazed  around,  and  fill  the  croustade  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  quenelles,  mushrooms, 
truffles,  and  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  into  which  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  has  been  added.  Be- 
tween every  sweetbread  lay  a  slice  of  tongue  cut  out  to  imitate  a  cocks'-comb  and  glazed  with 
meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  on  the  summit  of  the  garnishing  place  some  round  chicken  quenelles 
decorated  with  truffles  (No.  154). 

(1762).  LAMB  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  SEVIGNE  (Kis  d'Agneau  &  la  S^igneO, 
Soak  and  parboil  some  hearts  of  lamb's  sweetbreads,  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  bardes 
of  fat  pork,  sliced  carrots  and  onions  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  moisten  to  their 
heighth  with  some  stock  (No.  194a),  boil,  skim  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slow  oven.  Put  them  to  press  in 
round  rings;  when  cold  take  them  out,  cover  with  a  thick  Villeroi  (No.  560),  let  get  cold  and  then 
dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs.  Poach  some  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  in  Savarin 
molds  decorated  with  truffles,  unmold  and  fill  the  hollow  centers  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles  and 
mushrooms,  cover  over  with  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547).  Have  the  sweetbreads  fried  in  clarified 
butter  and  laid  around  the  garnishing. 

(1763).  LAMBS'  TAILS  A  LA  CONTI  (Queues  d'Agneau  a  la  Conti). 

Parboil  twelve  yearling  lambs'  tails  cut  from  the  saddle  at  the  beginning  of  the  tail.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  (Fig.  130)  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions  and  a 
garnished  bouquet  (No.  123);  put  in  the  tails  and  moisten  to  their  entire  height  with  broth  (No. 
194a),  then  let  them  cook  slowly  in  the  oven.  When  done,  drain  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  be- 
sprinkle with  salt  and  set  a  weight  on  top,  strain  the  stock,  remove  the  fat  and  reduce  it  to  half; 
when  the  tails  are  cold,  pare  them  by  cutting  off  the  ends  so  that  they  remain  only  three  and  a 
half  inches  long,  dip  in  melted  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire,  dress  on  a 
dish  in  a  circle,  glaze  well  and  fill  the  inside  space  with  a  thick  lentil  puree  (No.  719).  A  thick 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  accompanies  these  tails  having  it  served  separately. 

(1764;.  TENDRONS  OK  GRISTLE  01  LAMB  WITH  KOBERT  SAUCE-BROILED  (Tendrons 

d'Agneau  Grille's  a  la  Sauce  Robert). 

Raise  the  cartilaginous  parts  from  the  breast  which  are  called  the  tendrons  or  gristle,  remove  the 
breast  bones  keeping  on  only  the  tendrons,  season  with  salt,  pare  into  half  hearts  and  lay  them  in  a 
double  broiler  after  brushing  over  with  oil,  and  then  broil  them  on  a  slow  fire;  when  done  dress 
on  a  Robert  sauce  (No.  533),  insert  a  small  bone  into  each  piece  to  represent  a  handle  and  trim  it 
with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10). 

(1765).  LAMBS'  TONGUES  WITH  OLIVES  (Langues  d'Agneau  aux  Olives). 
Steep  and  parboil  twelve  lambs'  tongues,  then  cook  them  in  stock  (No.  194a)  drain  and  suppress 
the  white  skin  that  covers  them.  Line  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  range  the  tongues  on  top 
one  beside  the  other,  and  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  with  Madeira.  After  they  are 
cooked  place  them  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight  to  cool,  then  divide  them  laterally  in  two; 
pare  nicely  and  heat  in  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  glaze  and  dress  them  in  a  circle,  filling  the 
Interior  with  a  garnishing  of  blanched  olives  combined  with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  reduced  with 
the  stock, 

a766).  LAMBS'  TROTTERS  A  LA  BORDELAISE  AND  A  LA  BORDELAISE  WENBERG  (Pieds 

d'Agneau  a  la  Bordelaise  et  a  la  Bordelaise  Wenberg). 

Scald,  scrape  and  singe  twenty-four  lambs'  feet,  split  them  underneath  through  the  thickness 
of  the  meat  their  whole  length,  remove  the  pointed  hoof  bones  leaving  the  foot  whole.  Dilute  a 


LAMB.  50? 

small  handful  of  flour  with  cold  water  in  a  saucepan  able  to  hold  three  gallons,  add  to  it  salt,  whole 
peppers,  parsley  leaves,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  cloves,  garlic  and  carrots  cut  in  four;  put  in  the  feet  and 
let  cook  for  five  hours;  when  done,  drain.  Fry  six  shallots  colorless  in  butter,  moisten  them  with 
red  wine,  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  brandy  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  add  the  feet,  simmer  and  serve  them  in  a  very  little  sauce. 

A  la  Bordelaise  Wenberg. — Prepare  as  for  the  above  adding  finely  minced  hot  peppers, 
plenty  of  brandy  and  red  wine,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  a  little  freshly  ground  black  pepper. 

(1767).  LAMBS'  TEOTTEES  A  LA  OHANTILLY  (Pieds  d'Agueau  a  la  Ohantffly). 
Prepare  the  feet  the  same  as  indicated  for  poulette  (No.  1768),  placing  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  and  shallots;  moisten  with  two  gills  of  white  wine,  and  reduce 
to  half,  adding  two  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  a  garnished  bouquet  (No.  123),  and  a  few  fresh 
mushroom  peelings;  boil  and  reduce  the  sauce  without  ceasing  to  stir,  incorporating  slowly  in  it  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  mushroom  broth,  and  when  it  is  well  reduced  and  succulent,  strain  and  add  to  it 
the  lambs'  trotters;  let  them  simmer  in  the  sauce  for  twelve  minutes  over  a  very  slow  fire;  at  the 
last  moment  thicken  the  sauce  with  two  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in  cream.  Take  the  stew  from  the 
fire  and  finish  it  with  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Dress 
the  feet  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  surround  with  a  string  of  small  stuffed  mush- 
rooms (No.  650),  or  should  they  be  too  large  cut  them  in  two. 

(1768).  LAMBS'  TKOTTEKS  A  LA  POULETTE  AND  A  LA  DIDIEE  (Pieds  d'Agneau  a  la  Poulette 

et  a  la  Didier). 

Singe  with  alcohol  about  two  dozen  well  cleaned  lambs'  trotters,  cook  them  in  white  stock 
(No.  182);  suppress  the  hairy  tuft  found  between  the  two  divisions  of  the  forked  hoofs;  shorten 
the  bones  of  these  hoofs  and  then  split  each  foot  in  two  lengthwise,  and  take  out  the  large  shank 
bone.  Put  some  flour  into  a  saucepan,  dilute  it  with  cold  water  and  add  salt,  whole  peppers, 
vinegar,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  more  water 
then  put  in  the  feet  either  singly  or  else  three  bunched  firmly  together;  boil,  skim,  and  continue 
the  boiling  slowly,  for  five  or  six  hours  either  on  the  corner  of  the  range  or  else  in  a  slack  oven. 
Drain  the  feet  and  place  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  mushrooms  and  veloute  sauce  (No.  415); 
season,  boil,  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream,  fresh  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley. 

A  la  Didier. — Prepare  and  cook  twenty- four  feet  as  indicated  for  the  above.  Fry  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  butter;  when  a  light  golden  color,  besprinkle  with  flour,  and  allow 
it  to  cook  a  few  moments  without  browning;  dilute  this  with  some  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  some  mushroom  parings;  after  it  has  cooked  some  time,  skim  off  the  fat  and 
run  the  sauce  through  a  sieve,  then  add  to  it  the  feet  and  some  turned  and  channeled  mushroom 
heads  (No.  118);  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  and  finish  with  strained  lemon  juice,  and 
chopped  parsley;  serve  very  hot. 

(1769).  LAMBS'  TEOTTEES  WITH  TAEEAGON  GEAVY-STUFFED  AND  BEOILED  (Pieds 

d'Agneau  au    jus  d'Estragon— Farcis  et  Grille's). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  trotters  the  same  as  for  the  Poulette  (No.  1768);  (do  not  remove  the  shank 
bone  before  cooking);  drain  them  from  their  stock  and  while  yet  hot  suppress  this  bone  without  de- 
forming the  foot;  fill  the  empty  space  made  by  abstracting  the  bone  with  a  fine  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  92)  containing  half  its  quantity  of  foies-gras  from  a  terrine  and  chopped  up  truffles,  seasoning 
very  highly.  Beat  up  two  raw  eggs,  add  salt  and  two  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  dip 
the  lamb  trotters  in  this  egg  mixture  one  by  one,  drain  well,  then  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs, 
afterward  steeping  them  in  melted  butter;  range  them  as  fast  as  they  are  completed  on  a 
broiler  and  broil  for  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  over.  Dress  on  a  hot 
dish,  pouring  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish  to  which  has  been  added 
some  blanched  tarragon  leaves. 

(1770).  WHOLE  LAMB  A  LA  THEODOEA— HOT   AND   COLD  (Agneau  Entier  a  la  Theodora— 

Ohaud  et  Froid). 

Bone  the  neck  as  far  down  as  the  third  rib,  break  the  rib  bones  in  the  middle  of  the  breast, 
disconnect  the  sinews  at  the  joints  of  each  shoulder,  and  run  an  iron  skewer  through  them;  fasten 


568  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

the  thigh  bones  well  on  this  skewer,  then  break  the  kernel  leg  bone  and  sever  the  two  leg  bones; 
cross  over  the  two  handle  bones,  then  wrap  the  meat  in  strong  buttered  paper  and  lay  it  in  a 
cradle  spit  (Fig.  116)  to  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  basting  it  frequently  during  this  time.  Un- 
wrap and  let  it  acquire  a  fine  color,  then  dress  it  on  a  large  dish  and  lay  around  plenty  of  Sarah 
potatoes  (No.  2802).  Serve  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separately,  pouring  part  of  it  over. 

Cold. — After  the  lamb  has  been  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  the  above,  let  it  get  cold, 
then  glaze  it  over  several  times  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly. 
On  this  jelly  and  all  around  arrange  five  kinds  of  egg  garnishings,  for  instance  eggs  glazed  with 
chatifroid  (No.  2509);  eggs  a  la  Justine  (No.  2505);  eggs  with  salpicon  (No.  2514),  eggs  a  la 
Rouennaise  (No.  2506)  and  eggs  Juliet,  (No.  2504).  Serve  separately  a  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 


PORK  (Pore). 


(1771),  BAOON-SMOKED-WITH  SPINACH,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Petit  Sals'    Fume*    aux  E'pinards 

a  1'Anglaise). 

Out  from  a  side  of  smoked  bacon  some  pieces  weighing  about  a  pound  each;  boil  them  in 
unsalted  water.  Clean  some  spinach,  cook  it  in  separate  salted  water,  drain  but  do  not  chop.  Put 
it  into  a  sautoir  with  a  piece  of  butter  divided  in  small  pats,  and  when  prepared  to  serve  place  it  in 
the  center  of  a  dish,  remove  the  rind  from  the  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices,  and  lay  them  overlapping  one 
another  on  top  of  the  spinach. 

(1772).  BLACK  BLOOD  PUDDING  (Boudins  Noirs), 

Blood  puddings  are  made  with  the  pig's  blood  collected  in  a  receptacle,  and  well  stirred  while 
hot  to  prevent  coagulation. 

Composition. — In  blood  puddings  there  is  to  be  found,  blood,  leaf  lard,  onions,  apple  marma- 
lade, cream,  salt,  pepper,  allspice,  nutmeg,  celery,  savory,  and  parsley. 

Proportions. — For  twelve  pounds  of  black  pudding  have  three  pounds  of  blood,  three  pounds 
of  onions,  three  pounds  of  leaf  lard,  two  pounds  of  apple  marmalade,  and  a  pint  of  cream. 

Chop  up  fine  three  pounds  of  onions,  selecting  the  yellow  ones  in  preference;  put  two  ounces 
of  lard  in  a  saucepan  with  the  onions,  and  leave  to  cook  on  a  slow  fire  about  two  hours;  stir  from 
time  to  time.  Have  three  pounds  of  leaf  lard,  take  off  the  skin  and  cut  up  into  quarter  inch 
squares;  put  these  into  a  colander  and  plunge  it  for  five  minutes  in  boiling  water,  being  careful  to 
keep  the  pieces  detached;  drain  for  a  few  moments  without  pressing.  Put  this  lard  in  with  the 
onions,  when  the  latter  are  well  cooked,  and  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed;  this  should  be  done  on  a 
very  slow  fire;  now  pour  in  the  blood  straining  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  (Fig.  170)  to 
suppress  any  coagulated  parts;  mix  all  well,  adding  the  apple  marmalade;  season  with  a  third  of  an 
ounce  of  salt  for  each  pound  of  preparation,  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  allspice,  chopped  parsley, 
nutmeg,  celery,  and  savory  to  taste.  Keep  these  ingredients  in  a  bain-marie  at  a  seventy  degree  tem- 
perature, while  the  puddings  are  being  stuffed.  Soak  eight  yards  of  pigs1  casings  for  half  an  hour  in 
tepid  water;  run  the  water  through  them;  be  assured  that  there  are  no  holes.  Push  a  pudding  cornet 
down  the  casing  to  the  length  of  four  inches,  and  fill  by  pouring  in  the  preparation;  close  up  the 
filled  end  with  a  tight  knot  after  letting  about  two  ounces  of  the  preparation  run  out,  thus  avoid- 
ing the  too  fatty  part.  Divide  the  length  of  the  filled  casing  into  five  inch  pieces,  beginning  at  the 
tied  end  and  twisting  the  first  division  from  left  to  right,  and  the  second  from  right  to  left,  and  so 
on  consecutively,  alternating  the  twists.  Make  a  knot  at  the  other  end  and  then  lay  this  prepared 
part  in  a  dry  receptacle.  Keep  twenty  quarts  of  water  steadily  boiling,  and  when  all  the  puddings 
are  finished,  plunge  them  all  together  into  this  boiling  water;  take  from  off  the  fire  and  leave  them 
about  twenty-five  minutes  so  they  become  cooked.  To  find  out  when  they  are  done  to  perfection 
no  blood  must  be  seen  issuing  through  a  hole  to  be  perforated  in  the  skin  with  a  coarse  pin. 

To  Cook. — Score  the  pudding  on  botfr  sides  and  boil  on  a  moderate  fire.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish 
accompanying  it  with  either  French  or  English  mustard  seed  separately. 

(1773).  BREAST  OF  SALT  PORK  WITH  CABBAGE  (Poitrine  de  Pore  sa!6  aux  Choux). 
Have  a  two-pound  piece  of  the  breast  of  bacon,  unsalt  it  for  two  hours,  scrape  and  parboil  for 
ten  minutes,  then  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  full  of  boiling  water  to  let  cook  very  slowly  for  one  hour; 
add  to  it  two  small  and  very  clean  curled  cabbages  cut  in  four  and  finish  cooking  the  bacon  and 
cabbages  together;  drain  off  and  press  the  cabbages  in  a  colander  to  extract  all  their  water,  then 
lay  it  on  a  long  dish.  Remove  the  rind  from  the  bacon,  cut  it  up  into  slices  and  dress  them 
symmetrically  over  the  cabbage,  pouring  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 

(1774).  CHINE  OF  FORK  A  LA  PARMENTIER  (Echinee  de  Pore  a  la  Parmentier). 
The  chine  comprises  the  loin  and  a  few  of  the  rack  chops;  decrease  the  thickness  of  the  fat, 
leaving  it  only  half  an  inch  in  depth  on  its  entire  surface;  beat  down  the  projecting  chine  bone; 

(569) 


570  THE    EPICUREAN. 

score  the  fat  into  lozenges  and  wrap  the  meat  in  an  oiled  paper;  cook  it  either  on  the  spit  or  in 
the  oven.  The  time  it  will  take  will  be  from  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half;  before 
serving  unwrap  the  chine,  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  brown  it  nicely;  glaze  and  remove  from 
the  spit  or  oven.  Dress  and  garnish  around  with  potato  balls  cooked  in  broth  and  fried  *n 
butter;  serve  a  Bretonne  sauce  (No.  439)  separately. 

(1775).  CHITTERLINGS  OF  TEOYES  (Andouillettes  de  Troyes). 

Chitterlings  require  a  great  deal  of  care  in  their  preparation;  in  fact  it  must  be  remarked  thai 
the  quality  depends  entirely  upon  the  proper  cleansing  of  the  bowels. 

Ingredients. — Pork  bowels,  calf's  crow,  throat  fat  taken  from  the  pig,  salt,  pepper,  allspice,  nut- 
meg, onion,  shallot,  mignonette  and  parsley.  Take  some  pork  bowels,  removing  the  stomach  and  the 
casing,  only  using  the  large  intestine,  wash  this  in  cold  water.  Turn  it  inside  out  in  such  a 
way  that  the  fatty  part  is  inside;  in  order  to  accomplish  this  easily,  take  a  stick  a  yard  long,  place 
the  end  of  it  in  three  inches  of  the  narrowest  end  of  the  pipe  and  run  the  pipe  entirely  on  the 
stick,  keeping  it  all  the  time  in  its  original  place;  when  it  is  all  on  let  slide  by  pulling  it  slowly  on 
the  first  part,  that  is  on  the  stick,  and  the  pipe  will  turn  over  all  alone.  Now  clean  it  in  luke- 
warm water  acidulated  with  vinegar,  changing  it  three  times  and  leave  to  soak  for  three  hours; 
rub  it  once  more  through  the  hands  so  as  to  remove  all  the  remaining  gluey  parts.  Put  aside  the 
uncrimped  part  of  the  pipe  which  will  answer  for  wrapping  purposes  and  set  the  remainder  in  a 
pot  full  of  cold  water;  heat  until  the  pipe  becomes  a  little  hard,  not  letting  it  boil.  Afterward  cut 
the  pipe  lengthwise,  lay  it  perfectly  flat  spread  it  out  and  clean  it  thoroughly;  cut  it  into 
thin  strips  as  long  as  possible  without  separating  the  parts.  Cut  also  into  the  same  lengths 
the  crimped  part  of  a  calf's  crow  suppressing  the  fat  center.  Cut  up  about  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  salt  pork  into  strips.  Now  lay  all  these  out  on  a  table  in  the  proportion  of 
two-thirds  of  the  bowels  and  the  other  third  composed  of  crow  and  throat  fat;  dress  in  oblong 
shape,  being  careful  that  the  left  side  has  the  least  possible  loose  ends;  the  size  to  be  about 
eight  to  nine  strips.  Season  this  laid  out  part  with  a  minced  seasoning  composed  of  three 
onions,  three  shallots,  half  a  handful  of  very  finely  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  allspice,  nutmeg  and 
mignonette,  strewing  it  over  the  whole.  Pass  a  strap  made  of  two  six  inch  lengths  of  birchwood 
fastened  together  with  an  inch  length  of  string  through  the  opening  on  the  left  end,  and  turn  it  in 
such  a  way  that  the  chitterling  has  the  appearance  of  a  twisted  cable.  Cut  the  pipes  laid  aside  for 
wrapping  purposes  into  sixteen  inch  lengths,  have  the  fatty  part  outside,  operating  the  same  as 
when  turning  over  the  gut  itself,  placing  the  gut  one  inch  below  the  hole;  run  the  chitterling 
through,  being  careful  to  keep  the  first  end  at  the  extremity  of  the  chitterling;  tie  both  ends. 
Although  this  may  appear  very  easy,  yet  it  is  a  difficult  operation  to  perform  for  iae  first  time  and 
requires  a  certain  practice. 

To  Cook  the  Chitterlings. — To  have  them  very  white,  cook  in  a  stock  of  half  milk,  half  water, 
one  onion,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  salt  and  lemon;  leave  to  boil  slowly  for  about  three  hours.  In  order 
to  give  a  finer  appearance,  restuff  the  chitterling  after  the  first  cooking  in  an  uncrimped  pipe  and 
leave  on  a  slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  keeping  it  near  boiling  point.  Now  lay  it  in  a  napkin  and 
press  between  two  boards  with  weights  on  top  or  else  in  the  press  (Fig.  71);  the  chitterlings  will  bo 
square-shaped. 

To  Broil. — Score  the  chitterlings  on  both  sides  about  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  depth, 
baste  with  oil  or  butter,  broil  on  a  slow  fire  and  dress  on  a  dish  over  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1776).  PORK  OUTLETS  A  L' AURORA  (Cotelettes  de  Pore  k  1'Aurore). 

Cut  off.  six  covered  cutlets  from  a  rack  of  pork,  beat  to  flatten  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  then 
season  with  salt  and  pepper;  fry  them  in  butter  and  when  done  range  them  on  a  dish  capable  of 
being  placed  in  the  oven;  cover  over  with  well-seasoned  bechamel  cream  sauce  (No.  411)  thickened 
with  raw  egg-yolks  and  adding  some  very  finely  cut  up  chives.  Press  a  few  hard-boiled  egg-yolks 
through  a  sieve  holding  it  over  the  chops,  and  when  the  top  is  well  covered,  pour  on  some  butter 
and  brown  in  a  brisk  oven. 

(1777).  PORK  OUTLETS  HALF-GLAZE  AND  WITH  APPLES  (Ootelettes  de  Pore  a  la  Sauce 

Demi-Glace  aux  Pommes  d'Arbre). 

Cut  off  and  pare  twelve  cutlets  from  two  racks  of  a  young  pig— they  should  weigh  about  five 
ounces  each  after  being  nicely  trimmed,  range  them  in  a  sauteing  pan  covered  with  a  layer  of 
melted  butter,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  clove,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Pour  over  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and 


PORK. 


571 


POKE  AMERICAN  OUTS.  (Pore  Coupe  a  I'Am&icaine), 


Ham 


Leaf  Lard 


Breast 

Shoulder 
Fore  Knuckle 

Foot 


Hind  Knuckle 


Tail 


Tenderloin 


Sirloin 


Back  Fat  (Larding  Pork) 
Chine 


Neck 


FIG.  351. 


DIVISION  OF  PORK  (Division  du  Pore). 

A  pork  is  divided  in  two  parts  called  halves,  and  each  of  these  in  thirteen,  making  twenty- six 
in  all,  exclusive  of  the  head,  which  forms  the  twenty-seventh: 

1.  Feet— (Pieds)  8.  Fore  Knuckle— (Jarret  de  Devant) 

2.  Chine— (Echine)  9.  Hind  Knuckle— (Jarret  de  Derriere) 

3.  Tenderloin— (Filet)  10.  Breast— (Poitrine) 

4.  Back  Fat— (Lard)  11.  Tail— (Queue) 

5.  Shoulder— (Epaule)  12.  Sirloin— (Longe) 

6.  Ham— (Jambon)  13.  Neck— (Cou) 

7.  Leaf  Lard — (Panne) 

The  intestines  not  included  in  these  are  composed  of: 

1.  Gut— (Chaudin)  5-  Lights— (Mou) 

2.  Casing— (Menu)  6.  Caul  Fat— (Crepine) 

3.  Stomach— (Panse)  7.  Crow— (Fraise) 

4.  Liver — (Foie) 


572  THE    EPICUREAN. 

when  the  liquid  reaches  boiling  point  place  it  in  a  slack  oven  so  that  the  chops  cook  slowly  and 
brown  slightly  without  attaching  to  the  dish;  after  twenty  minutes  turn  them  over.  Should  the 
butter  become  too  hot  add  a  little  broth  (No.  194a)  until  thoroughly  cooked,  and  when  assured  of 
this  fact,  remove  the  chops  from  the  fire,  drain  off  the  butter  and  detach  the  glaze  found  adhering 
to  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  little  Madeira  wine;  now  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
suppress  the  oarsley  and  drain  well  the  chops,  trim  their  handles  and  dress.  Strain  the  sauce 
through  a  tammy  finishing  it  with  a  little  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice;  cover  over  the  chops  with 
half  of  this  sauce,  serving  the  other  half  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

With  Apples. — Have  the  cutlets  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  No.  1777,  only  garnish 
around  with  apples  cut  in  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices  by  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter; 
remove  the  seeds  with  an  apple  corer,  fry  them  in  lard  and  when  nearly  done  sprinkle  over  some 
sugar  and  continue  the  cooking  until  they  are  glazed. 

(1778).  PORK  OUTLETS  AND  CHOPS,  PLAIN  AND  OASTILLANE-BROILED  (Cotelettes  de 

Pore  Grilles  Nature  k  la  Castillane  et  Ootelettes  de  Filet). 

Certainly  the  best  way  to  prepare  pork  cutlets  is  to  broil  them;  when  fried  they  lose  their 
finest  qualities.  From  a  small  rack  cut  off  six  cutlets  beat,  pare,  season  and  roll  them  in  a  little 
oil,  then  broil  over  a  good  fire  for  twelve  to  fourteen  minutes,  being  careful  to  turn  them;  trim  the 
handles  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  and  dress  on  a  very  hot  dish. 

Castillane. — After  the  cutlets  have  been  prepared  and  cooked  as  for  the  above,  dress  them  on 
a  hot  dish  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  Castillane  sauce  (No.  443).  Prepare  chops  the 
same  as  cutlets,  they  should  be  cut  from  a  loin  instead  of  from  the  rack. 

(1779).  PORK  OUTLETS  WITH  APPLE  CROQUETTES  (Ootelettes  de  Pore  aux  Croquettes  de  Pommes 

d'Arbre). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  cutlets  the  same  as  for  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  1780),  trim  the  handle 
bones  and  dress  in  a  circle;  fill  the  center  with  apple  croquettes  (No.  3016)  in  the  form  of  inch 
balls,  and  serve  separately  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  with  essence  of  ham  (No.  390.)  To  make 
apple  croquettes,  mince  some  apples  very  small  and  cook  them  slowly  in  fresh  butter;  when  nearly 
done  add  a  little  sugar  and  finish  the  cooking.  Let  this  preparation  get  quite  cold,  then  divide  it 
into  small  parts  of  a  sufficient  size  to  make  inch  in  diameter  balls;  roll  these  in  bread-crumbs, 
beaten  eggs  and  then  more  bread-crumbs,  smooth  this  over  neatly  with  a  knife  and  fry  the  cro- 
quettes in  very  hot  fat. 

(1780).  PORK  OUTLETS  WITH  COOKED  FINE  HERBS  (Cotelettes  de  Pore  aux  Fines  Herbes  Ouites). 
After  the  cutlets  have  been  pared  and  seasoned,  fry  them  very  slowly  in  butter  turning  them 
over  when  a  fine  color  on  one  side;  fourteen  minutes  will  suffice  to  cook  them.  Lay  the  cutlets 
on  a  dish,  keep  it  warm  while  detaching  the  glaze  in  the  pan  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  and 
reducing  it  with  some  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  add  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  lemon  juice, 
then  pour  the  whole  over  the  cutlets;  trim  the  handle  bones  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  and  serve. 

(1781).  PORK  OUTLETS  WITH  GRAVY,  ROBERT  OR  GHERKIN  SAUCE-BREADED  (Cotelettes 
de  Pore  Panees  au  Jus,  k  la  Sauce  Robert,  ou  k  la  Sauce  aux  Cornichons). 

Prepare  four  cutlets  with  their  rib  bones  beginning  at  the  third  rib  from  the  neck;  the  meat  should 
be  white  and  firm;  beat  down  to  flatten  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  pare  evenly  and  season 
witn  salt  and  pepper,  dip  the  cutlets  in  melted  butter,  then  in  white  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a 
slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes;  when  cooked  and  nicely  browned,  trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10), 
dress  in  a  circle  and  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  into  the  dish. 

With  Robert  Sauce. — Prepare  and  cook  as  above  and  serve  with  Robert  sauce  (No.  533). 

For  Gherkin  Sauce.— Pour  one  gill  of  vinegar  into  a  saucepan  with  two  chopped  up  shallots 
and  a  pinch  of  pepper;  reduce  completely,  then  add  some  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  and  a  little  gravy 
(No.  404),  reduce,  despumate  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  throw  in  chopped  up  pickled  gher- 
kins, or  else  have  a  pickle  sauce  as  described  in  No.  518. 

(1782).  PORK  CUTLETS  WITH  MASHED  POTATOES-HASHED  (Cotelettes  de  Pore  Hache"esala 

Puree  de  Pommes). 

From  the  rack  of  a  young  pig  cut  off  six  cutlets;  pare  and  remove  all  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
keeping  the  rib  bones  for  further  use.  Chop  up  the  meats  with  half  as  much  cooked  udder  and  add 
to  this  hash,  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  raw  truffles  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  dice-shaped  pieces;  season 


PORK.  573 

highly  and  divide  the  preparation  into  eight  even  parts;  shape  each  one  similar  to  a  cutlet  using  the 
reserved  bones  for  handles,  and  wrap  in  squares  of  "crepinette"  or  caul  fat;  dip  in  beaten  eggs, 
bread-crumb  well,  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  containing  melted  butter;  heat  simply  to  stiffen  both 
sides,  then  moisten  to  their  heighth  with  gravy  (No.  404);  boil  the  liquid,  cover  the  sautoir  and  set 
it  in  a  slack  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  trim  them  with  paper  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  and  pour  the 
reduced  stock  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  with  a  vegetable  dishful  of  mashed  potatoes 
(No.  2798). 

(1783).  PIGS'  PEET  A  LA  ST.  MENEHOULD  (Pieds  de  Oochon  k  la  St.  M6n6hould). 
Have  eight  scalded  and  clean  pigs'  feet;  soak  them  for  several  hours  in  water,  drain,  and  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water;  bring  this  to  a  boil,  and  continue  simmering  slowly  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour;  then  drain,  refresh,  wipe  and  singe  the  feet;  tie  them  together  with  a 
tape  and  range  them  in  a  stock  pot  having  the  bottom  covered  with  large  vegetables;  pour  over 
plenty  of  water  and  a  bottleful  of  white  wine,  adding  salt  and  aromatics,  then  boil  again  while 
skimming;  now  paste  on  the  lid  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  and  continue  cooking  the 
feet  for  twelve  hours  in  the  oven,  allowing  them  to  cool  off  in  their  own  stock;  drain,  untie,  and 
split  each  one  in  two  lengthwise;  season  over  with  salt  and  mignonette,  bread-crumb  them  English 
style,  or  with  egg-yolks  beaten  up  with  melted  butter  (No.  13),  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  broil 
of  a  nice  color  over  a  moderate  fire,  serve  very  hot. 

(1784),  PIGS'  FEET-BROILED  (Pieds  de  Oochon    Grille's). 

If  the  feet  have  to  be  cooked  at  home,  then  clean  them  well  and  tie  them  together  in  pairs;  boil 
them  in  a  stock  in  which  salted  meats  have  been  cooked,  or  else  in  a  broth  fragrant  with  vege- 
tables, onions,  carrots,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  basil  etc.,  peppercorns,  cloves 
and  allspice;  four  or  five  hours  will  suffice  to  have  them  done  properly,  then  let  them  cool  off  in 
the  same  liquid;  unwrap  and  cut  each  foot  into  two  parts;  wet  the  surfaces  with  a  brush  dipped  in 
butter  or  melted  lard,  pare  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs;  broil  them  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  over 
a  moderate  fire. 

(1785).  PIGS  FEET  TRUFFLED  (Pieds  de  Oochon  Truffe~s). 

This  is  one  of  the  best,  at  the  same  time  the  easiest  way  of  utilizing  the  pigs'  feet.  Make  two 
pounds  of  forcemeat  composed  of  one  pound  of  fat  pork  taken  from  under  the  spine  and  a  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  lean  taken  from  the  end  of  the  tenderloin.  Peel  five  good  sized  truffles,  cut  one 
of  them  up  in  slices  to  lay  over  the  "  crepinette"  or  caul  fat,  and  the  other  four  in  small  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.  Mix  the  forcemeat  with  fhe  small  bits  of  truffle,  two  eggs,  two 
pinches  of  flour,  and  a  few  drops  of  orange  flower  water;  season  with  a  third  of  an  ounce  of  salt  for 
every  pound,  white  pepper  and  nutmeg;  mix  well  together  and  leave  stand  for  half  an  hour.  Bone 
four  pigs'  feet  cooked  in  a  white  stock,  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  good  broth  (No.  194a)  just  sufficient  to  cover,  add  the  truffle  peelings  and  a  little  sherry  wine. 
After  this  has  been  boiling  ten  minutes  pour  the  whole  into  a  flat  square  vessel  to  make  a  layer 
half  an  inch  thick,  then  leave  it  to  get  cold.  Soak  a  "  crepinette  "  or  caul  fat  in  cold  water,  wipe 
it  perfectly  dry  and  then  spread  it  out;  lay  on  this  three  slices  of  truffle  placed  lozenge  form.  Roll 
out  a  ball  of  the  forcemeat  of  two  ounces,  flatten  to  an  oval  form.  Cut  some  of  the  feet  now 
formed  into  a  jelly  the  same  shape  only  a  little  smaller;  and  lay  it  on  the  forcemeat,  cover  with 
another  piece  exactly  the  size  and  shape  of  the  first  then  wrap  around  the  "  crepinette  "  giving  it 
while  rolling  it  in  the  hands  the  shape  of  an  oval. 

To  Cook  the  Feet.  —Butter  these  with  a  brush,  dip  them  in  white  bread-raspings,  and  then  broil 
them  over  a  slow  fire;  turn  four  times  while  cooking  to  allow  the  juice  of  the  feet  to  penetrate  the 
forcemeat.  At  the  last  moment  increase  the  heat;  they  should  be  of  a  fine  golden  color  all  over. 

(1786).  PIGS'  FEET  WITH  TRUFFLES,  PERIGORD    (Pieds  de  Cochon  aux  Truffes  du  Pe~rigord) 

Cook  the  feet  the  same  as  when  prepared  for  broiled  (No.  1784),  let  them  get  partially  cold  in 
their  stock,  then  drain,  unwrap  and  cut  each  one  in  two  lengthwise;  bone  every  one  of  the 
halves  properly,  season  with  salt  and  mignonette  and  fill  all  their  insides  with  a  stuffing  of  pork 
and  chopped  truffles,  with  a  quarter  as  much  fine  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81).  Smooth  the 
surface  of  this  dressing  and  cover  it  over  with  slices  of  raw  truffles;  wrap  each  half  foot  in  a 
square  of  soaked  and  well  dried  "crepinette"  or  caul  fat,  brush  over  with  butter  or  melted  lard, 
and  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs;  broil  for  twenty  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  dress  on  a 
hot  dish  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  added. 


574  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1787),  HAM  A  LA  BENEDICT  OK  WITH  JAEDINIEEE  BOASTED  (Jambon   Eoti  I  la  Benedict 

ou  a  la  Jardiniere). 

Steep  the  smoked  ham  in  cold  water  for  twenty-four  hours;  wash,  pare  and  remove  the  hip  bone; 
put  it  in  an  earthen  dish,  pour  over  some  Madeira  wine  and  season  with  whole  peppers,  cloves,  thyme, 
bay  leaf,  mace,  garlic,  sliced  carrots  and  onions  and  lemon  juice;  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  for  twelve 
hours  turning  the  ham  round  several  times  in  this  marinade.  Five  hours  before  serving,  wrap  the 
ham  up  with  its  strained  marinade  fried  in  butter  and  moistened  and  reduced  with  white  wine  and 
the  moistening  of  the  marinade,  in  sheets  of  strong  oiled  paper;  cover  the  paper  with  a  flour  and 
water  paste  so  that  the  ham  is  hermetically  enclosed,  then  cover  this  paste  with  another  sheet  of 
very  thin  oiled  paper;  lay  it  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  pour  oil  over  and  roast  for  three 
hours;  remove  from  the  fire  and  make  a  small  hole  on  the  top  to  penetrate  the  paste  and  papers, 
set  a  funnel  into  this,  and  pour  in  a  gill  of  good  Madeira,  the  same  quantity  of  malaga  and  half  a 
gill  of  brandy.  Cover  the  hole  with  a  round  piece  of  paper,  and  paste  it  over  to  concentrate  all  the 
steam  which  is  essential  to  obtain  success.  An  hour  after,  take  the  ham  from  the  oven  or  spit, 
unwrap,  pare  carefully  and  glaze  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  dress  and  garnish  around  with  escalops 
of  foies-gras,  cocks'-combs  and  kidneys,  and  slices  of  red  beef  tongue  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  one  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  quenelles  and  channeled  mushrooms;  cover  the 
whole  with  a  well-buttered  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  and  trim  the  handle  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10), 
insert  a  few  skewers  in  the  top  garnished  with  cocks'-combs  and  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118). 

This  ham  may  be  served  with  a  jardiniere  garnishing  (No.  677)  and  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413)  served  separately. 

(1788).  HAM  A  LA  LEONAED-BOILED  (Jambon  Bouilli  a  la  Leonard). 
Immerse  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours  a  fresh,  smoked  ham,  after  cutting  off  the  end  of  the 
handle  bone  and  shortening  the  hip  bone;  suppress  the  part  of  the  meat  and  the  smoked  fat 
and  lay  the  ham  in  a  large  saucepan  covering  it  over  abundantly  with  cold  water;  set  it  on 
the  fire,  bring  the  liquid  gradually  to  a  boil,  then  drain  off  this  water  and  replace  it  with 
tepid  water,  adding  carrots,  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  sage  and 
basil;  season  with  peppercorns,  cloves  and  mace.  At  the  first  boil  remove  it  on  one  side  so  that  \'c 
simmers  only  (the  length  of  time  for  its  cooking  will  be  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for  each  pound);  when 
the  ham  is  nearly  done,  fake  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  leave  it  to  cool  off  in  the  water  for  one 
hour  longer.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve  drain  the  ham,  suppress  the  rind  and  aitchbone,  pare  the 
fat  and  meat  around  and  underneath  and  cut  off  all  the  meat  from  the  handle.  Lay  the  ham  o:. 
dish  and  slice  a  piece  off  from  the  bottom  so  that  it  will  stand  plumb;  glaze  it  over  with  a  brush 
and  place  it  in  a  deep  baking  tin  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No. 404)  and  as  much  Madeira  wine;  boil 
this  up  and  keep  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  the  gravy.  Dress  on  a 
long  dish  on  a  three-inch  high  rice  socle,  trimmed  like  a  croustade  and  colored  in  the  oven;  pour 
half  the  gravy  over,  trim  the  handle  bone  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  surround  with  twenty-fourcrons- 
tades,  eight  filled  with  green  peas,  eight  with  asparagus  tops,  and  eight  with  quarter-inch  squares 
of  mushrooms.  Serve  at  the  same  time  but  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 
This  ham  may  also  be  served  with  a  garnishing  of  Italian  macaroni  or  lazagnes  and  a  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549)  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  instead  of  the  Madeira. 

(1789).  HAM,  EOASTED  ON  THE  SPIT,  MADEIEA  SAUCE,  OE  MAEINATED  AND  EOASTED, 
WHITE  WINE  SAUCE  ( Jambon  Eoti  a  la  Broche  Sauce  Madere,  ou  Marine  Eoti  au 
Pour  a  la  Sauce  au  Vin  Blanc). 

On  the  Spit. — Select  a  small  raw  unsmoked  ham,  remove  the  aitchbone,  saw  off  the  handle  joint 
and  suppress  the  rind  and  part  of  the  fat,  leaving  only  a  layer  half  an  inch  in  thickness;  pare  the 
ham  into  a  round  shape,  then  lay  it  in  brine  from  two  to  eight  days,  and  later  when  needed  for 
use,  wash  it  in  plenty  of  cold  water;  wipe  and  envelop  the  lean  parts  in  a  large  slice  of  fat  pork 
tie  up  the  ham  and  roast  it  on  the  spit,  basting  it  frequently  with  white  wine;  serve  hot  with  a 
sauce-boat  of  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

Marinated  and  Roasted  in  the  Oven — White  Wine  Sauce. — Prepare  the  ham  the  same  as  for 
the  above,  only  instead  of  salting  it,  place  it  in  a  vessel  to  marinate  for  two  days  with  white  wine 
and  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  sliced  onions,  cloves,  minced  carrots,  parsley  leaves,  thyme,  bav 
leaf,  a  little  sugar  and  sweet  oil;  turn  the  meat  over  every  three  hours.  Wrap  the  ham  up  with  its 
marinade  in  several  sheets  of  strong  paper  aud  roast  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours  and 


PORK.  575 

a  half.  Thirty  minutes  before  serving,  unwrap  and  glaze  the  surface,  strain  the  stock,  remove  its 
fat  and  thicken  it  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414;  and  white  wine;  boil  for  half  an  hour  remove 
the  fat,  dress  the  ham,  have  it  nicely  glazed  and  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  under,  while  serving  the 
remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1790X  HAM,   WITH  OAEEOTS,   STUFFED  TOMATOES  OE  MUSHEOOMS-BEAISED  AND 
GLAZED  (Jambon  BraisS  et  Glace"  aux  Garottes,  Tomates  ou  Champignons  Farcis). 

Have  the  ham  of  a  young  pig  freshly  salted  and  smoked;  saw  off  the  handle  straight,  also  the 
hip  bone;  pare  the  meats  and  fat  slightly,  and  lay  it  to  soak  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours,  then 
drain,  scrape  well,  wash  and  wrap  it  in  a  cloth;  lay  it  in  a  soup-pot  with  four  times  its  heighth  of 
water,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  then  set  it  on  one  side  to  simmer  slowly;  add  to  it  carrots,  onions,  cloves, 
a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  half  a  bottleful  of  white  wine;  allow  it  to 
boil  for  three  hours,  then  drain,  remove  the  cloth  and  cut  off  the  rind.  Lay  (he  ham  in  a  low  braziere 
(Fig.  134)  with  half  a  bottleful  of  Madeira  wine,  a  little  brandy,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  meat 
glaze  (No.  402);  finish  cooking  it  in  a  slack  oven,  basting  it  often,  and  when  the  ham  is  of  a  fine 
color,  and  the  liquid  reduced,  dress  and  decorate  with  a  frill  (No.  10).  Strain  and  reduce  the 
stock  with  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  third  part  of  this 
sauce,  serve  seperately  the  other  two-thirds  in  a  sauce-boat. 

After  the  ham  has  been  dressed,  surround  it  with  a  garnishing  of  carrots  cut  into  small  pear- 
shape,  blanched  and  cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a),  then  a  little  sugar  added  and  fallen  to  a  glaze; 
rpour  in  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  add  a  piece  of  butter  just  when  ready  to  serve. 
Stuffed  tomatoes  (No.   2842),  stuffed  mushrooms  (No.   692),  or  any  other  garnishing  may  be 
substituted,  serving  with  a  separate  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira. 

(1791),  HAM  WITH  SPINACH— BOILED  (Jambon  Bouilli  aux  Epinards). 
Take  a  fine  freshly  salted,  smoked  ham,  pare  the  meats  also  the  fat,  which  should  be  exceed- 
ingly white;  suppress  the  hip  bone,  saw  off  the  knuckle  bone  and  then  unsalt  the  ham  in 
a  plentiful  supply  of  water  for  twenty-four  hours.  If  it  should  have  been  dried  and  salted 
for  some  time  prior  to  the  day  of  using,  then  it  will  require  thirty-six  hours  of  unsalting.  Wash, 
drain  and  tie  it  in  a  towel.  Five  hours  before  serving  lay  it  in  a  large  braziere  or  soup  pot  with 
four  tiires  its  volume  of  cold  water,  adding  four  quartered  carrots,  two  onions  containing  six 
cloves,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  basil  and  mace,  then  let  it  boil  and  sim- 
mer slowly  for  four  hours  more  or  less,  according  to  the  weight  and  size  of  the  ham,  calculating  a 

L  quarter  of  an  hour  for  each  pound.     To  be  assured  that  it  is  properly  cooked,  run  the  tip  of  a 

skewer  into  the  flesh  and  if  it  can  be  withdrawn  at  once  the  ham  is  sufficiently  done.  Remove  the 
braziere  or  pot  from  the  fire  half  an  hour  before  serving;  drain  the  ham  on  a  dish,  take  off  the 
towel  and  pare  the  rind  and  fat  tastefully;  clean  the  handle  bone  thoroughly  cutting  off  the  meat 
for  about  two  and  a  half  inches  from  the  end,  then  set  it  in  the  oven  to  dry  the  surface.  Garnish 
the  top  of  the  fat  with  a  thin  layer  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92),  containing  lobster  butter, 
and  arrange  in  the  center  of  this  a  fanciful  decoration  of  pistachioes,  truffles,  etc. ,  cover  with  but- 
tered paper.  Set  the  ham  in  the  oven  to  poach  the  forcemeat,  or  if  preferred  glazed,  then  replace 

I  it  by  a  glaze  made  by  besprinkling  the  fat  with  sugar  and  glazing  it  of  a  fine  reddish  color. 

Dress  the  ham  on  a  garnishing  of  spinach  (No.  2821),  trim  the  handle  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  lay 
around  some  triangle-shaped  croutons  fried  in  butter;  serve  with  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

i  Instead  of  chopped  spinach,  English  spinach  (No.  2823)  may  be  used.     Serve  a  half -glaze  sauce 

(No.  413)  separately. 

(1792),  VIRGINIA  HAM  WITH  STEINGED  EGGS  (Jambon  de  Virginie  auxCEufs  File's). 

This  dish  is  a  favorite  one  among  Spanish  people.  Select  the  ham  from  a  young  pig,  pare 
and  cook  it  the  same  as  the  boiled  ham  with  spinach  (No.  1791);  when  done,  drain  and  cut  off  the 
rind,  pare  the  upper  surface  evenly,  and  wipe  the  fat  over  with  a  cloth,  besprinkle  with  a  thin  layer  of 
powdered  sugar  and  glaze  it  either  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123)  or  in  a  very  hot  oven.  Trim  the 
handle  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  dress  on  a  low,  carved  rice  socle,  placed  onva  long  dish.  Break  six- 
teen fresh  eggs,  place  the  yolks  in  a  bowl  and  pound  them  without  beating,  then  rub  them  through 
a  strainer,  and  to  poach  them  resemble  coarse  vermicelli;  for  this  result  it  is  necessary  to  have  an 
oblong,  wide-mouthed  strainer,  its  aperture  being  six  inches  long  by  three  wide  and  two  inches 
and  a  half  deep;  the  bottom  must  be  furnished  with  six  tin  tubes  shaped  like  a  socket,  having  an 
opening  at  the  bottom  an  eighth  of  an  inch  or  less  wide  and  soldered  on  the  outside.  Have  a 


576  THE    EPICURE 

sugar  pan  of  sufficient  size  and  half  full  of  twelve  degrees  hot  syrup;  keep  the  strainer  on  top  of 
this  boiling  syrup,  and  pour  the  strained  eggs  into  it,  letting  them  fall  through  into  the  syrup;  as 
quickly  as  they  harden  lift  them  out  and  spread  in  a  sieve  dampened  with  water,  so  that  these 
strings  do  not  adhere  to  one  another,  then  dress  them  around  the  ham.  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492) 
may  be  served  separately. 

(1793).  PIGS'  HEADS  WITH  PUEEE  OP  SPLIT  GREEN  PEAS  (Tete  de  Cochon  a  la  Purge  de  Pois 

Verts  Sees). 

Cut  a  pig's  head  into  pieces,  bone,  singe  and  parboil;  refresh  and  finish  cooking  it  in 
white  stock  (No.  182);  when  done  and  ready  to  serve,  drain  out  the  meats,  wipe  them  dry,  and  dress 
on  a  rather  consistent  puree  of  split  green  peas  (No.  724)  having  it  well  seasoned  and  finished 
with  a  piece  of  good  butter.  Send  to  the  table  with  a  sauce-boat  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 
This  dish  can  also  be  served  with  a  piquante  sauce  (No.  538),  or  else  a  Robert  sauce 
(No.  533). 

(1794).  KEENEL  OF  HAM  A  LA  BIAREITZ  (Noix  de  Jambon  a  la  Biarritz). 
A  kernel  of  ham  is  sufficient  for  eight  persons.  Soak  it  for  eight  hours  in  cold  water,  pare 
lightly  and  wrap  up  in  a  small  cloth;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  cold  water  and  bring  the 
liquid  slowly  to  a  boil;  remove  the  saucepan  to  the  corner  of  the  range,  so  that  the  liquid  simmers 
on  one  side  only,  it  taking  in  all  about  two  to  three  hours  according  to  the  size.  Leave  it  in 
the  water  half  an  hour  before  serving,  then  drain,  suppress  the  rind,  trim  the  meat  and  fat  care- 
fully, and  dress  it  on  a  risot  prepared  as  follows:  Fry  colorless  two  spoonfuls  of  onions,  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  unwashed  but  clean  rice,  and  warm  it  with  the  onions;  wet  it  to  three  times 
its  heighth  with  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  and  let  cook  in  the  oven  without  disturbing  whatever  until  all 
the  liquid  is  absorbed,  then  stir  in  a  coffeespoonful  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Have  six 
scalded  tomatoes,  twenty-four  cooked  mushroom  heads,  and  sixteen  small  Chipolata  sausages  fried  in 
butter  (No.  657).  When  the  rice  becomes  dry,  pour  over  it  four  ounces  of  hazelnut  butter  (No.  567). 
Drain  the  ham,  pare  and  glaze  it  over  with  a  brush;  lay  the  rice  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  the  ham 
on  top  and  surround  with  the  sausages  and  mushroom  heads  stewed  in  cream,  placing  santed  sweet 
Spanish  peppers,  and  the  scalded  tomatoes  cut  in  two,  pressed  and  fried  in  butter  at  the  ends.  A 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  should  be  served  separately. 

(1795).  KERNEL  OP  POEK  A  LA  OAVOUR  AND  WITH  NOODLES-SLICED  (Tranches  de  Noix  de 

Pore  a  la  Oavour  et  aux  Nouilles). 

Cut  from  the  kernel  part  of  a  young,  fresh  pig,  some  slices  to  weigh  four  ounces  each,  beat  to 
flatten  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  trim  them  round-shaped;  they  should  now  weigh  three 
ounces  each;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  saute  them  rare.  Reduce  some  thick  espagnole 
(No.  414);  add  to  it  fine  cooked  herbs  (No.  385),  and  let  it  get  cold;  cover  both  sides  of  the  slices 
with  this  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  then  immerse  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs 
for  the  second  time;  smooth  the  breading  nicely  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Have  a  spaghetti 
garnishing  containing  shredded  mushrooms,  clear  gravy  (No.  414),  and  ready  prepared  tomato 
paste,  to  be  found  at  Italian  grocers,  and  grated  parmesan;  pour  this  macaroni  on  a  dish  and 
dress  the  slices  of  pork  on  top.  These  slices  may  also  be  dressed  on  top  of  a  garnishing  of  noodles 
fried  in  butter,  and  serve  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  separately. 

.  (1796).  LOIN  OF  POEK  A  LA  EEGLAIN  (Longe  de  Pore  I  la  Eeglain). 
Trim  a  loin  of  pork  cut  off  from  the  first  rib  as  far  down  as  the  ham,  leaving  but  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  of  fat  on  its  surface;  rub  this  over  with  salt  and  leave  it  so  for  twenty-four  hours;  wash, 
drain  and  wipe,  then  set  it  in  a  saucepan  with  melted  fat,  minced  onions  and  garnished  parsley. 
Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  to  brown  the  meat  slowly,  and  when  a  fine  color  moisten  to  a  quarter 
of  its  height  with  stock  (No  194a),  bring  to  a  boil  aud  finish  cooking  in  the  oven.  Half  an  hour  be- 
fore serving  plunge  one  pound  of  rice  in  boiling  water;  set  it  on  the  tire  and  at  the  first  boil  take  it 
off  to  pour  in  some  cold  water  to  stop  the  boiling,  then  return  it  to  the  fire  and  remove  again  at 
the  first  boil,  now  cover  the  saucepan  and  leave  the  liquid  to  simmer  without  letting  it  actually 
boil  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Pour  the  rice  on  a  sieve,  drain  it  well  and  put  it  back  into  the 
saucepan  with  half  the  meat  stock;  boil  it  up  then  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven;  the  rice  ought  to  ab- 
sorb the  stock,  and  when  well  cooked  press  it  into  a  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  previously  dipped  in 
cold  water,  then  unmold  it.  Cut  the  loin  up  into  about  two  ounce  pieces  without  any  bones  and 
scarcely  any  fat;  pare  them  into  quarter  inch  squares;  reduce  the  remaining  stock  with  as  much 
veloute  (No.  415),  add  the  meat,  season  with  adash  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  heat  well  then 
dish  the  meat  up  inside  a  border  and  pour  the  sauce  over;  dredge  with  chopped  parsley  and  serve. 


PORK.  577 

(1797\  QUAETEE  OF  POEK  VALENCIENNES  (Quartier  de  Pore  a  la  Valenciennes), 
Have  a  quarter  of  a  young  pork,  salted  for  eight  days  without  any  saltpetre,  and  when  ready 
for  use  wash  it  well  in  cold  water;  remove  the  hip  bone,  tie  it  up  and  cook  it  in  water:  when  three- 
quarters  done  drain,  suppress  the  rind  and  finish  cooking  in  the  oven,  and  glaze  with  some  clear 
gravy  (No.  402)  and  white  wine.  Dress  it  on  a  long  dish,  trim  the  handle  with  a  frill  or  ruffle 
(No.  10)  and  garnish  around  with  risot  (No.  739)  in  which  two  pounds  of  sausages  have  been 
boiled,  finishing  with  a  pinch  of  Spanish  red  pepper;  at  each  end  lay  stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2842), 
the  rice  on  the  sides,  the  slices  of  sausages  on  top.  Cover  the  meat  with  an  espagnole  save 
(No.  414)  well  reduced  with  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  seasoned  with  prepared  red  pepper;  (No. 
168);  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 

(1798).  EAOK  OF  POEK  OEOWN-SHAPED  WITH  SMALL  ONIONS  (Carre*  de  Pore  en  Couronne 

aux  Petits  Oignons). 

Cut  off  two  racks  containing  six  cutlets  each,  both  the  same  length  and  height,  leaving  on  a  part 
of  the  loin;  suppress  the  chine  bone  as  far  as  the  beginning  of  the  ribs  and  lay  the  meats  in  around 
or  oval  deep  dish  so  that  the  kernel  of  the  chops  be  inside  and  the  ends  of  the  cutlets  outside;  tie 
the  ends  together  with  a  piece  of  string  and  fill  the  inside  of  the  crown  thus  obtained  with  sausage 
forcemeat  into  which  has  been  mixed  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  then  cook  in  the  oven  for  an  hour  and 
a  half.  Fry  sixty  small  onions  or  more  in  butter,  having  them  only  slightly  browned,  then  finish 
cooking  in  stock  (No.  194a)  till  they  fall  to  a  glaze;  dress  and  glaze  the  crown,  garnish  the  center 
with  onions  and  pour  a  Robert  sauce  (No.  533)  over  the  whole,  or  a  Provencal  sauce  (No.  529)  to 
which  add  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(1799).  EACK  OF  POEK  ON  THE  SPIT  (Carre*  de  Pore  a  la  Broche). 

Cut  a  rack  of  fresh  pork  containing  six  to  eight  ribs;  leave  it  covered  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  with  its  own  fat  and  pare  the  chine  bone;  saw  it  off  as  far  as  the  edges  of  the  ribs,  separate 
the  adhering  meat  on  top  of  the  ribs  and  cut  them  so  they  are  only  two  and  a  half  inches  long; 
score  the  top  into  lozenges,  roll  over  the  flap  and  tie  up  the  rack  with  eight  rows  of  string;  lay  it 
on  the  spit  and  leave  it  to  cook  for  about  an  hour,  basting  it  occasionally.  Glaze,  dress  and  serve 
over  some  clear  gravy  No.  (404). 

(1800).  EAOK  OF  POEK  WITH  STUFFED  PEPPEES  (Carre*  de  Pore  aux  Piments  Parcis). 

Obtain  a  rack  of  pork  containing  eight  ribs  with  the  breast;  remove  the  chine  bone,  and  saw 
it  off  at  the  beginning  of  the  ribs,  bone  also  the  breast  leaving  on  only  two  and  a  half  inches  of 
the  ribs;  remove  the  fat  all  but  a  quarter  of  an  inch  and  score  this  into  lozenges.  Roll  over  the 
flap,  tie  and  set  the  meat  in  a  china  dish,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley  and 
round  slices  of  onion,  pouring  over  some  sweet  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Wrap  the  rack  and  its 
marinade  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  lay  it  in  a  baking  pan,  besprinkle  with  fat  and  cook 
it  in  a  sufficiently  hot  oven  for  one  hour.  Twenty  minutes  before  serving  unwrap  and  leave  the 
meat  in  the  oven  to  brown  and  glaze  to  a  fine  color.  Place  the  vegetables  in  a  saucepan  with  some 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  white  wine;  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce.  Dress  the  rack, 
surround  it  with  stuffed  peppers  (No.  2768),  and  pour  some  of  the  sauce  over,  serving  the  remain- 
der at  the  same  time  but  separately. 

(1801),  SAUSAGES  OHIPOLATA  (Saucisses  a  la  Chipolata). 

Push  some  sausage  meat  (No.  68)  into  a  sheep's  casing  being  careful  not  to  fill  it  too  much; 
twist  it  into  small  inch  to  inch  and  a  half  lengths,  turning  each  sausage  in  a  contrary  direction, 
the  first  to  the  right,  the  second  to  the  left,  and  so  on  to  the  end;  in  this  way  the  sausages  keep 
together  better  while  cooking.  Prick  the  casing  with  a  larding  or  any  other  needle.  Cook  on  a 
slow  fire  and  dress  on  a  chipolata  garnishing  (No.  657). 

(1802).  SAUSAGES  GASTEONOME  (Saucisses  au  Gastronome/. 

Garnish  the  inside  edge  of  a  pie-dish  with  a  border  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  laid  on  through 
a  cornet;  set  on  the  bottom  a  layer  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  over  this  long  sausages  prepared 
with  chopped  truffles  after  pricking  them,  and  cover  the  whole  with  an  Italian  sauce  (No.  484) 
containing  truffles;  bestrew  the  surface  with  bread  raspings  and  a  pinch  of  grated  parmesan, 
pour  butter  over  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  until  the  sausages  be  well 
done  and  browned. 


578  THE    EFICUREAiSl'. 

(1803).  SAUSAGES  IN  BAGS  (Saucisses  en  Sac), 

Make  some  muslin  bags  twelve  inches  long  by  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  fill  them  up 
with  cold  American  sausage  meat  (No.  68),  then  cut  them  across  bag  and  forcemeat  together  in  halt' 
inch  thick  slices;  remove  the  muslin,  bread-crumb  the  pieces  and  broil  or  fry  them  in  butter  in  the 
pan  or  else  place  in  a  little  water  in  a  frying  pan  and  boil,  then  finish  cooking  in  a  moderate  oven 
or  on  a  slow  fire. 

(1804).  SAUSAGES  WITH  CEEAM  POTATOES,  BAKED  (Saucisses  aux  Pommes  de  Terre  Hachees 

a  la  Creme  Gratine"es). 

Have  some  pork  forcemeat  the  same  as  sausage  forcemeat  (No.  69);  for  each  pound  of  this 
forcemeat  mix  in  four  ounces  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  also 
a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  thicken  the  whole  with  six  egg-yolks;  use  this  forcemeat  to  fill  small 
sheep's  casings  previously  salted,  being  careful  not  to  have  them  too  full,  then  twist  the  sausages 
into  five  inch  lengths.  Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  deep  baking  dish  with  chopped  potatoes  and 
cream  (No.  2780);  lay  the  sausages  on  top  after  frying  them  for  one  minute  in  hot  frying  fat, 
pour  oversome  thick  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese;  baste 
with  melted  butter  and  set  the  dish  in  a  very  hot  oven  to  bake  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
browned  to  a  fine  color. 

(1805).  SAUSAGES-PLAT-WITH  TOMATO  SOUBISE  SAUCE  (Saucisses    Plates    a  la  Sauce 

Tomate  Soubise). 

Roll  some  sausage  meat  into  four  ounce  balls  and  wrap  these  up  in  "  crepinette  "  or  caul  fat; 
shape  them  into  slightly  lengthened  flat  pieces.  There  can  be  some  parsley,  tarragon  or  other  herbs 
added  to  the  sausage  meat  according  to  taste.  Dip  them  in  melted  butter,  then  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  broil  over  a  slow  fire,  afterward  dress  on  a  puree  of  tomatoes  (No.  730),  mingled  with 
soubise  sauce  (No.  543). 

(1806).  SAUSAGES  WITH  TEUFFLES  (Saucisses  aux  Truffes). 

Take  two  pounds  of  fresh  pork  meat  from  the  neck;  remove  carefully  all  the  fibrous  parts 
retaining  as  much  meat  as  fat;  season  with  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  freshly 
ground  allspice,  and  add  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  small  dice  or  finely  chopped.  Make  sausages 
of  this  preparation,  broil  and  dress  them  on  a  garnishing  of  minced  truffles  mingled  with  supreme 
sauce  (No.  547). 

(1807).  SAUSAGES  LONG-WITH  WHITE  WINE  (Saucisses  Longues  an  vin  Blanc). 
Prepare  some  five  or  six  inch  length  sausages  the  same  as  the  Chipolata  (No.  1801),  prick  them 
with  a  small  larding  needle,  fry  in  fresh  butter,  and  when  cooked  dress  on  a  dish;  drain  the 
butter  from  the  sautoir  and  replace  it  by  white  wine,  chablis,  sauterne  or  champagne,  one  or  the 
other,  extending  the  sauce  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  boil  it  up  once,  strain  through  a  tammy, 
and  finish  with  lemon  juice  and  fresh  butter;  pour  it  over  the  sausages. 

(1808).  SPAEE  EIBS,  PAEISIAN  STYLE  (Petit  Sale"  a  la  Parisienne). 

Take  some  of  the  breast  ribs  of  a  pig  and  salt  them  for  twelve  hours  in  a  light  eight  degree 
brine;  remove  and  wash  off  in  cold  water.  To  cook  them  it  is  better  to  take  an  already  salted 
broth,  one  in  which  a  ham  or  any  other  meat  has  been  boiled.  When  this  reaches  boiling  point, 
throw  in  the  ribs  and  leave  to  cook  without  boiling. 

(1809).  SUCKLING  PIG,  PIEDMONTESE  STYLE  (Cochon  de  Lait  k  la  Piemontaise), 
Pick  and  wash  two  pounds  of  rice;  parboil  and  lay  aside  a  third  part,  then  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  strained  unskimmed  stock  (No.  194a)  reaching  to  more  than  twice  itsheighth,  season  with  a 
little  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  when  the  rice  is  cooked  which  will  take  about  half  an  hour,  stir 
in  with  a  fork,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan.  Stuff  the  inside  of  the  pig  with  this,  sew 
it  up  and  cook  it  on  a  cradle  spit  or  in  the  oven,  basting  it  over  frequently  with  sweet  oil.  Three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving,  set  the  other  two-thirds  of  rice  in  a  saucepan,  moisten  it  with 
stock  (No.  194a)  and  half  a  pound  of  chicken  fat,  adding  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  bring  to  a  boil,  place  in  the  oven  and  when  the  rice  is  cooked, 
remove  the  parsley  and  stir  in  with  a  fork,  fresh  butter,  meat  glaze,  grated  parmesan  and  mig- 
nonette. Dress  this  rice  around  the  suckling  pig  and  serve  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  separately. 


PORK.  579 

(1810).  SUCKLING  PIG,  EOASTED  ON  THE  SPIT,  OE  STUFPED  AND  BOASTED  (Cochon  de 

Lait  Eoti  a  la  Broche  ou  Farci), 

Empty  well  a  scalded  pig,  truss  the  limbs  and  head,  run  it  on  the  spit  and  roast  before  a 
good  fire,  basting  it  over  with  a  large  brush  wet  with  oil.  The  great  difficulty  is  to  have  it  a 
beautiful  color  while  cooking  to  perfection.  It  should  take  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours, 
having  the  skin  crackling  Drowned  and  crisp.  When  the  pig  is  cooked  dress  on  a  large  dish  and 
surround  with  water-cresses  seasoned  with  salt  and  vinegar,  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful 
of  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  or  one  of  mint  sauce  (No.  616)  or  else  both,  and  a  vegetable  dish  of  Naples 
style  macaroni  (No.  2959). 

Suckling  Pig  Stuffed  and  Roasted. — The  pig  may  be  stuffed  with  an  American  bread  stuffing 
(No.  61),  in  this  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  cook  it  for  half  an  hour  longer. 

(1811).  SUCKLING  PIG,  SALTED  AND  SMOKED  WITH  SAUEEKEAUT  (Oochon  de  Lait  Sale"  et 

Fume"  a  la  Choucroute). 

Empty  and  scald  a  suckling  pig  and  keep  it  for  ten  days  in  plenty  of  brine  con- 
taining four  ounces  of  sage,  four  ounces  of  thyme,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bay  leaf;  drain  dry  and 
smoke  it  to  a  yellow  color  with  sawdust  into  which  mix  a  little  sage.  Boil  the  pig  in  water  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  for  every  pound,  dress  when  well  drained  on  a  bed  of  sauerkraut  (No.  2819);  gar- 
nish with  the  bacon,  sausages,  sliced  carrots,  and  Chipolata  sausages.  A  very  rich  clear  gravy 
(No.  404)  is  to  be  served  separately. 

(1812).  TENDEELOIN  OF  POEK  A  LA  MINUTE-MINCED  (EmincS  de  Filet  de  Pore  a  la  Minute). 
Have  some  cooked,  cold,  and  well  trimmed  tenderloins  of  pork,  cut  in  half  heart-shapes;  put 
them  in  a  sautoir  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  and  heat  up  without  boiling.  Cover  either  of  these 
meats  with  the  following  sauce:  Fry  a  finely  chopped  shallot  in  butter,  add  to  it  some  bread-crumbs 
and  raw  fine  herbs;  moisten  with  a  little  gravy,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  thicken  with 
kneaded  butter  (No.  579).  Just  when  prepared  to  serve,  pour  in  a  little  diluted  mustard;  dress 
the  mince,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1813).  TENDEELOIN  OF  POEK  A  LA  PEINTANLEEE  (Filet  de  Pore  a  la  Prmtaniere). 

The  tenderloin  is  the  long,  narrow  plump  piece  of  meat  laying  under  the  kidney  along  the 
spinal  bone;  it  is  a  part  of  the  loin;  it  weighs  from  half  a  pound  to  a  pound.  Have  four  fine  whole 
pork  tenderloins;  pare,  remove  the  sinews  and  lard  them  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  line 
a  sautoir  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Lay  the  larded  tenderloins  on  top,  moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No. 
194a)  and  a  gill  of  Madeira,  cover  with  a  round  piece  of  buttered  paper,  reduce  and  let  the 
liquid  fall  to  a  glaze;  moisten  once  more  until  it  reaches  half  the  heighth  of  the  meat,  then  cook  for 
one  hour  or  more  in  the  slow  oven;  glaze  and  dress  on  a  rice  foundation  an  inch  and  a  half  high, 
garnish  around  with  small  carrots  cut  in  the  shape  of  cylinders  or  pears,  balls  of  turnips,  both 
blanched  and  cooked  in  broth,  olive  form  potatoes,  green  peas  and  asparagus  tops.  Skim  the  fat 
from  the  surface  of  the  stock,  strain  and  reduce  it  with  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  strain  it 
once  more  through  a  tammy  and  cover  the  meat  with  a  part  of  this,  serving  the  remainder  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1814).  TENDEELOIN  OF  POEK,  BLANQUETTE  OE  ESOALOPED,  WITH  MUSHEOOMS  OE 
TEUFFLES  (Blanquette  de  Filet  de  Pore,  ou  Escalopes  aux  Champignons  ou  aux  Trufles). 

Have  two  pounds  of  the  tenderloin  of  fresh  pork;  pare  in  order  to  remove  the  sinewy  skin 
covering  it,  also  the  fat,  cut  up  into  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  escalops,  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  thick;  place  them  as  soon  as  ready  in  a  liberally  buttered  saute-pan,  and  season  over  with 
salt.  Cut  across  in  slices  one  pound  and  a  half  of  large  mushroom  heads;  add  to  the  meat  and  cover 
entirely  with  melted  butter,  and  a  round  piece  of  paper,  and  when  prepared  to  serve,  place  them 
on  a  brisk  fire  to  stiffen  only,  turning  them  over  to  finish  cooking;  drain  off  the  butter,  and  add  in 
its  place,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  and  lemon 
juice,  finally  thickening  with  egg-yolks,  butter,  and  cream.  Dress  the  whole  on  a  rice  border. 

With  Truffles.—  Replace  the  mushrooms  by  fresh  truffles  if  procurable. 


580  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1815).  TENDERLOIN  OP  POKE,  MARINATED  (Filet  de  Pore  Marine"). 

Pare  several  pork  tenderloins;  split  them  in  two  lengthwise,  then  beat  and  trim;  lard  them 
with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  salt  over,  and  range  in  a  deep  dish;  cover  with  a  cooked  cold 
marinade  (No.  114),  and  leave  the  tenderloins  in  this  for  twenty-four  hours,  being  careful  to  turn 
them  over  at  frequent  intervals,  then  drain,  wipe  dry,  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  frag- 
ments of  fat  pork,  minced  carrots  and  onions;  moisten  slowly  with  stock  (No.  194a),  and  reduce  the 
liquid  gently  to  a  glaze ;  remoisten  several  times,  putting  in  very  little  at  the  time,  until  the  meats  are 
done,  and  then  finish  glazing  in  the  oven.  Dress  the  tenderloins,  detach  the  glaze  from  the  sautoir 
with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  two  spoonfuls  of  the  above  marinade;  thicken  the  whole 
with  some  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  reduce,  and  strain  it  over  the  tenderloins.  Surround  with 
half  heart-shaped  croutons  fried  in  butter. 


(1816).  PORK  TENDERLOINS,  PIMENTADE  SAUCE  (Filets  de  Pore  Sauce  Pimentade). 

Pare  the  tenderloins  and  lard  them  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Fry  some  mirepoix 
(No.  419)  in  butter,  moisten  it  with  Madeira  wine  and  let  get  cold;  cover  the  tenderloins  with  this 
and  wrap  them  up  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  then  roast  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes; 
unwrap,  glaze,  and  let  attain  a  good  color.  Prepare  a  pimentade  sauce  (No.  521)  reduced  with 
the  mirepoix;  pour  some  of  this  sauce  under  the  tenderloins  and  serve  some  separately. 


(1817).  TENDERLOINS  OF  PORK,  ROASTED,  BROILED  OR  SAUTED  (Filets  de  Pore  Rotis,  Grille's 

ou  Saut6s). 

Roasted. — Take  small  pork  tenderloins;  pare  them  nicely  and  lard  with  fine  lardons  (No.  3, 
Fig.  52);  marinate  them  while  raw  for  two  hours,  then  roast  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 
Dress  and  pour  their  own  gravy  over,  after  straining  and  skimming  it,  surround  with  water- 
cresses. 

Broiled,  MaUre-d" Hotel  Butter. — Pare  the  tenderloins,  then  split  them  lengthways  in  two 
without  detaching  the  pieces;  season  with  salt  and  mask  with  butter;  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  cover  with  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

Sauted  Half -Glaze. — Cut  them  whistle-shaped  in  two  lengthwise,  beat  and  pare  into  half- 
hearts,  season  with  salt  and  saute  on  a  moderate  even  fire;  drain  off  the  fat,  detach  the  glaze  with 
a  little  Madeira  and  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  reduce,  dress  the  tenderloins  and  pour  the  gravy 
over. 


(1818).  PORK  TENDERLOINS  WITH  PUREE  OF  CELERY-BREADED  (Filets  de  Pore  Pane's  a  la 

Pure"e  de  Celeri). 

Pare  some  pork  tenderloins  suppressing  all  fat  and  sinews,  then  cut  them  into  lengthwise  bias 
slices  and  trim  into  half  hearts;  season  each  piece  with  salt,  dip  into  melted  butter  and 
roll  in  white  bread-crumbs;  broil  over  a  bright  fire  and  when  done  dress  them  over  a  puree  of 
celery  (No.  711). 

(1819).  PIGS'  TONGUES,  PROVENQAL  STYLE  (Langues  de  Cochon  a  la  Prove^ale). 

Prepare  and  cook  some  salted  tongues;  when  they  are  cold  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two.  Pare 
eight  peeled  onions  by  cutting  off  the  roots  and  stalks  on  the  slant;  mince  them  up  finely  and  fry 
colorless  in  oil,  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white  wine,  add  salt,  pepper,  a  clove  of  garlic 
and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  boil  and  cook  on  a  slow  fire  for  one  hour  then  remove 
all  the  fat  and  the  parsley,  and  reduce  with  some  thick  be"chamel  (No.  409),  pass  through  a  tammy. 
When  this  is  cold  cover  each  half  tongue  on  the  flat  side  with  a  part  of  this  preparation  after 
paring  them  all  one  size;  besprinkle  with  some  gastrite  (No.  1187),  heat  and  brown  in  the  oven  to 
a  fine  color,  then  dress  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  inside  with  sauted  sweet  peppers  (No.  2769),  and 
around  with  stuffed  onions  (No.  2766).  A  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
reduced  together  is  to  be  served  separately. 


PORK. 


581 


(1820).  ZAMPINO,  MODENA  STYLE,  WITH  STRING  BEANS-STUFFED  (Zampino  Farci  a  la 

Hodene  aux  Haricots  Verts). 

Zampino  is  the  foot  of  a  young  pig,  including  a  part  of  the  leg  stuffed  (Fig.  352).     Let  this  salt  for 
twelve  days  in  brine,  and  when  needed  for  use  soak  it  for  three  or  four  hours;  scrape  the  rind  and 


FIG.  352. 

prick  it  with  a  larding  needle  to  prevent  breaking  while-cooking;  wrap  it  up  in  a  thin  cloth,  tie  it 
at  both  ends  and  in  the  middle,  and  lay  the  leg  in  a  braziere  covering  over  with  cold  water;  let  it 
simmer  for  two  hours  or  more  and  when  the  pointed  end  is  done  take  out  the  leg,  unwrap  and 
serve  over  a  garnishing  of  string  beans.  Serve  separately  a  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced 
with  white  wine.  For  the  preparation  of  the  Zampino  see  hams  of  chicken  with  Zampino 
(No.  2525). 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


POULTRY  (Volatile). 


(1821).  CAPON  A  L'AMPHITRYON  (Chapon  a  I'Amphitryon). 

A  capon  is  a  castrated  cock  fattened  for  the  table;  truss  a  good  capon  as  for  an  entree  (No. 
178)  selecting  it  white  and  very  fat,  fill  the  inside  with  a  delicate  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89) 
with  truffles  into  which  mix  some  chestnuts  roasted  in  the  oven  and  broiled  Chipolata  sausages 
after  removing  their  skins,  and  stoned  verdal  olives;  rub  the  breast  over  with  half  a  lemon,  then  cover 
with  bards  of  fat  pork.  Cook  the  capon  as  for  poeler  (No.  12)  and  when  done,  dress  on  a  rice 
foundation  and  garnish  around  with  clusters  of  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118)  with  half-glaze 
stuffed  tomatoes,  and  whole  truffles  with  glaze  (No.  402),  a  little  Madeira  and  butter,  strain  the 
stock,  free  it  of  its  fat  and  reduce  with  the  same  quantity  of  veloute  (No.  415).  Insert  three 
skewers  garnished  with  glazed  truffles  and  crawfish  on  top  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

(1822).  CAPON  A  LA  BRESSOISE  (Chapon  a  la  Bressoise). 

Singe,  draw  and  clean  well  a  fine  capon;  make  a  forcemeat  by  soaking  a  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs in  milk,  then  pressing  out  all  the  liquid  and  adding  seasoning  and  eight  ounces  of 
very  finely  chopped  beet  marrow  and  three  whole  eggs.  Stuff,  truss  and  tie  up  the  capon  as  for  an 
entree  (No.  178).  Place  in  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard  and  half  a  pound  of  fresh  fat 
pork  cut  up  in  quarter  inch  squares,  lay  the  capon  on  top  and  brown  it  slowly,  then  wet  with  some 
stock  (No.  194a)  and  simmer,  adding  more  liquid  when  needed  until  thoroughly  cooked.  Strain  the 
gravy,  free  it  of  fat  and  untie  the  capon,  dressing  it  in  the  middle  of  an  oval  dish,  pour  the  well- 
reduced  gravy  over,  serving  a  poulette  sauce  (No.  527)  separately. 

(1823).  CAPON  A  LA  FINANCIERE  (Chapon  a  la  Financtere). 

This  releve  is  dressed  on  an  oval  wooden  bottom  having  in  the  center  a  four-sided  tin  support 
made  hollow  so  that  it  be  lighter.  This  wooden  bottom  and  support  must  both  be  covered  with  a 
cooked  paste  or  else  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142)  dried  in  the  air.  Fasten  a  string  of  noodle  paste  of 
about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  on  the  edge  of  the  socle;  this  is  intended  for  upholding 
the  capons  and  garnishing.  On  the  edge  of  the  bowl  of  the  plate,  place  a  noodle  paste  border  (No. 
10).  Prepare  the  capons  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  having  them  stuffed  with  a  stuffing  made  of 
cooked  chicken  livers,  grated  fresh  lard,  truffle  parings,  bread-crumbs,  salt  and  cayenne  pepper. 
Cover  over  with  bards  of  fat  pork  placed  in  a  narrow  braziere  (Fig.  134)  moisten  with  sufficient 
stock  (No.  194a)  to  cover  the  capons,  add  aromatic  herbs  and  lemon  pulp  free  of  seeds  and  peel, 
then  cook  on  a  good  fire,  having  the  liquid  reduce  to  one-third,  at  the  last  moment  drain  off  the 
capons,  untie  and  dress  one  on  each  side  of  the  support  inserting  a  garnished  skewer  on  top;  fill  in 
the  sides  between  the  capons  with  a  varied  garnishing  composed  of  mushrooms,  cocks'-combs  and 
quenelles;  cover  over  either  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  if  needed  for  white  or  a  financiere  sauce 
(No.  464)  if  for  brown;  surround  the  base  with  a  row  of  peeled  truffles  cooked  in  wine  and  glazed 
over  with  a  brush,  and  serve  apart  a  veloute"  sauce  reduced  with  mushroom  broth  if  for  the  white 
or  else  a  brown  financiere  sauce  with  Madeira. 

(1824).  CAPON  A  LA  PONDICHE'RY  (Chapon  a  la  Pondich^ry). 

Draw,  singe  and  truss  a  capon  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  chop  up  finely  a  few  onions,  fry  them 
colorless  in  butter,  add  to  it  some  rice  and  moisten  to  three  times  its  height  with  beef  stock  (No. 
194a)  seasoning  with  cayenne  pepper,  salt  and  butter;  let  boil  then  cook  in  the  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  Line  a  buttered  saucepan  with  carrots,  onions  and  slices  of  fat  pork,  lay  the  capon  on  top 
and  moisten  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a);  let  this  reduce  entirely  then  add  more  moistening  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  When  the  capon  is  done  strain  the  stock, 
remove  the  fat  and  add  it  to  the  capon  to  keep  it  warm.  Reduce  the  skimmed  stock  with  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  curry,  saffron  and  powdered  sweet  Spanish  peppers;  dress  the  rice  on  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  lay  the  capon  on  top  and  cover  it  with  a  third  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  other  two-thirds 
in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(583) 


584  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1825).  CAPON  A  LA  EEGENCE  (Chapon  a  la  Eegence). 

Singe,  draw,  and  remove  the  breast  bones  from  two  capons;  fill  the  breasts  with  seasoned  butter, 
then  truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  lard  the  breasts  with  fine  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  an  I  cover 
the  unlarded  parts  with  slices  of  fat  pork.  Put  the  capons  in  a  covered  braziere  (Fig.  Ib4),  and 
moisten  them  with  mirepoix  (No.  419),  to  a  little  above  their  wings;  cover  over  with  buttered 
paper,  and  leave  to  simmer  slowly  for  one  hour.  Uncover  the  braziere,  take  off  the  paper,  and  glaze 
all  the  larded  parts.  Have  four  larded  sweetbreads,  ten  large  truffles,  twelve  fine  cocks'-combs, 
and  eight  big  crawfish.  Make  a  garnishing  with  chicken  quenelles  and  mushrooms,  combining 
these  with  some  regence  sauce  (No.  532).  Cut  a  piece  of  bread-crumb  ten  and  a  half  inches  long  by 
four  and  a  quarter  wide,  and  three  and  a  half  inches  high,  it  to  be  conical-formed;  fry  this,  then 
attach  it  to  the  center  of  a  dish  with  repere  paste  (No.  142),  so  that  it  can  support  the  two  capons; 
have  these  well  drained  and  arrange  them  to  rest  against  the  bread,  the  rump  parts  uppermost. 
Pour  the  prepared  garnishing  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  place  two  large  sweetbreads  below  the  two 
breasts,  and  two  more  in  the  middle  intersections,  then  two  crawfish  on  each  side  of  the  sweet- 
breads; glaze  the  sweetbreads  and  the  larded  parts  of  the  capon  and  serve  with  a  regence  sauce 
apart.  Make  six  hatelets  with  the  cocks'-combs  and  the  truffles  (Fig.  11),  and  fasten  them  in  taste- 
fully. 

(1826).  CAPON  LEGS  WITH  TEUFFLES.  KOAST  CAPON  (Cuisses  de  Chapon  auxTruffes.  Chapon 

Eoti). 

Bone  entirely  six  legs  taken  from  medium-sized  and  very  tender  capons;  remove  carefully  the 
sinews,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  stuff  them  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
into  which  mix  half  as  much  small  squares  of  foies-gras;  sew  them  up  and  braise  in  a  mirepoix  and 
white  wine  stock  (No.  419);  moisten  slowly,  being  most  careful  to  baste  frequently,  and  when  done, 
withdraw  the  threads,  glaze  and  dress  the  legs  on  the  strained  and  skimmed  stock.  Serve  separately 
a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  with  sliced  truffles  added. 

Roast  Capon. — Stand  the  capon  on  the  grate  fitting  in  the  roasting  pan;  for  this  see  the  plate 
in  roasted  sirloin  of  beef  (Fig.  306);  have  the  bird  trussed  for  roasting  (No.  179).  The  grater  is 
used  so  that  the  meat  does  not  lie  in  the  dripping,  this  being  the  best  way  to  attain  perfect  results 
in  roasting,  but  attention  must  be  paid  to  keep  turning  it  over  and  basting  frequently  with 
the  dripping  fat;  care  must  also  be  observed  not  to  allow  this  fat  to  burn,  and  in  order  to  avoid  this 
pour  a  little  hot  water  from  time  to  time  into  the  pan.  After  the  capon  is  nicely  done,  withdraw 
untruss,  and  serve  it  on  a  very  hot  dish;  drain  off  all  the  fat  so  that  only  the  glaze  remains  in  the 
pan,  detach  this  with  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  strain  the  gravy,  remove  the  fat  and  pour  a  part  of 
^t  over  the  capon,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 


CHICKEN  (Poulet), 

(1827).  CHICKEN  BEEASTS  A  LA  CHEVEEUSE  (Estomacs  de  Poulet  a  la  Chevreuse). 
Dip  the  breasts  of  two  or  three  chickens  in  boiling  water,  lard  them  with  some  fillets  of  ham, 
knd  truffles  cut  the  size  shown  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  braise  and  as  soon  as  cooked  drain  and  arrange 
them  against  a  triangle-shaped  bread  support;  between  each  chicken  lay  a  group  of  truffles,  one 
of  olives  and  another  of  quenelles;  pour  some  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  around  them  and  serve 
more  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1828).  CHICKEN  A  LA  DELISLE-BEOILED  (Poulet    Grille 

k  la  Delisle). 

Split  a  chicken  in  two  through  the  back  after  having  drawn, 
singed  and  cleansed  it  well;  trim  it  nicely,  remove  the  lights  and 
season  with  salt  and  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  dip  in  melted 
butter,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire;  serve 
on  a  garnishing  prepared  as  follows:  Peel  four  medium  tomatoes, 
cut  them  in  four,  press  out  the  seeds  and  fry  m  butter  with  finely 
shredded  green  peppers,  adding  a  little  kneaded  butter  (No.  579), 
let  simmer  until  thoroughly  done.  Prepare  a  low  oval  border  of  FlG 

Piedmontese  risot  (No.  739)  with  parmesan;  unmold  on  a  dish 
and  lay  the  tomatoes  in  the  center  with  the  broiled  chicken  on  top;  trim  the  drum  sticks  with  frills 
(No.  10),  and  serve  very  hot. 


POULTRY.  585 

(1829),  CHICKEN  A  LA  IRVING-BROILED  AND  STUFFED  (Poulet  Farci  et  Grille"   k  la 

Irving). 

Procure  very  young  chickens  each  one  to  weigh  a  pound  and  a  quarter;  draw,  singe  and  clean 
them  well  picking  out  all  the  pin  feathers;  split  them  in  two  through  the  back,  and  take  off  the 
meat  from  the  legs  without  injuring  the  skin;  chop  up  this  meat  with  the  same  quantity  of  fresh 
fat  pork,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  half  as  much  bread-crumbs;  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  adding  one  whole  egg;  lay  this  dressing  in  the  inside  part  of  the  chickens, 
cover  with  melted  butter  and  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs;  lay  them  on  a  double  hinged  broiler 
to  broil  very  slowly  but  to  a  fine  color.  Fry  colorless  one  tablespoonful  of  onions  with  as  much 
small  squares  of  raw  ham;  moisten  with  a  gill  of  veal  blond  (No.  423),  a  gill  of  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  and  a  gill  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  let  the  whole  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain 
the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve  and  pour  it  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  sprinkle  over  with  chopped 
parsley  and  lay  the  stuffed  chickens  on  top. 

(1830).  CHICKEN  WITH  BACON,  MAITRE-D'HOTEL-BROILED  (Poulet    Grills'  au  Petit  Sale"  &  la 

Maitre-d'Hotel). 

Singe  a  good  small  chicken,  draw  and  clean  it  well  plucking  out  all  the  feathers;  leave  the 
pinions  on;  cut  off  the  legs  one  inch  below  the  joint  and  split  the  chicken  down  through  the  back 
to  open  it  entirely;  take  out  the  breast  bone  and  lights,  clean  the  insides  properly  decreasing  the 
bones  of  the  carcass;  beat  the  chicken  in  order  to  flatten  it,  and  pare  (Fig.  353),  then  lay  it  in  a 
dish  and  baste  with  melted  butter  or  oil;  season  with  salt  and  place  it  in  a  double  broiler  to  broil 
over  a  slow  fire  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  after  the  chicken  has  acquired  a  fine  color  and  is 
properly  done,  dress  it  on  an  oval  hot  dish  and  cover  with  some  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581), 
surround  with  slices  of  bacon  and  serve. 

(1831).  CHICKEN  WITH  TARRAGON  GEAVT  OR  SAUCE-BROILED  (Poulet  Grills'  au  Jus  a 

1'Estragon  ou  a  la  Sauce  &  1'Estragon). 

Draw  a  young  pound  and  a  half  chicken,  cut  off  the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  cut  a  slit  in  the 
chicken  near  the  pope's  nose  and  pass  the  stump  bone  through  the  slit;  split  the  chicken  in  two 
lengthwise,  pare  each  part,  beat  down  to  flatten,  season  and  roll  in  melted  butter,  then  in 
white  bread-crumbs  and  broil  on  both  sides  turning  over  when  the  meats  are  found  to  be  done. 
Dress  the  two  half  chickens  on  a  hot  dish  garnish  the  leg  bones  with  frills  (No.  10),  and  serve 
with  some  good  tarragon  gravy  or  else  with  tarragon  sauce  (No.  548). 

(1832).  CHICKEN  COOOTTE  (Poulet  en  Cocotte). 
i 

Cut  up  one  small  pound  and  a  quarter  to  pound  and  a  half  chicken;  season  with  pepper,  only 
divide  it  into  four  parts,  the  two  legs  and  the  breast  part  cut 
in  two;  put  the  pieces  in  the  bottom  of  a  cocotte  (small  earthen 
saucepan,  Fig.  354)  with  a  little  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
nut,  placing  the  legs  underneath  and  the  breasts  on  top,  add  a 
small  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf  and 
over  lay  two  ounces  of  unsmoked  bacon  cut  in  five-eighths  inch 
squares  blanched,  then  fried  in  butter,  also  a  dozen  and  half 
pieces  of  potato-shaped  like  cloves  of  garlic  and  as  many  small 
raw  onions  fried  to  a  light  color  in  butter;  lay  here  and  there  half  Fio.  854. 

an  ounce  more  butter,  put  on  the  lid  and  push  into  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  half  an  hour.     The  cocotte  should  stand  directly  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven;  turn 
the  ingredients  over  carefully  ranging  the  meat  on  top  of  the  vegetables;  let  cook  for  another  ten 
to  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  chopped  parsley;  toss  and  serve  in 
the  cocotte  itself. 

(1833).  EPIGRAMMES  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  VOLNAY  (Epigrammes  de  Poulet  a  la  Volnay). 

Kaise  the  fillets  from  four  chickens,  remove  the  minion  fillets  and  skin,  bone  thoroughly  and 
stuff  the  thighs,  then  put  them  into  half  heart-shaped  bottomless  molds  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
high,  braise  and  leave  to  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight;  pare,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs 


586  THE  EPICUREAN. 

and  fry  nicely.  Saute  the  breasts  on  a  moderate  fire,  drain  and  dress  them  in  a  circle  alternated 
with  the  thighs,  decorate  with  fancy  favor  frills  (No.  10);  and  fill  the  center  with  a  garnishing  of 
whole  chestnuts,  truffles,  mushrooms  and  cover  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  that  has  been 
thickened  at  the  last  moment  with  egg-yolks  and  raw  cream. 

(1834).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  BERANGER  (Pilets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Beranger). 

Raise  the  fillets  or  wings  with  the  pinions  attached  from  six  roasted  chickens  of  two  pounds 
each,  having  them  well  larded  and  not  too  much  cooked;  pare  nicely,  suppressing  the  skin  and  lay 
them  in  a  sautoir  with  well  buttered  cream  bechamel  (No.  411).  Dress  them  in  a  circle  with  a 
crouton  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  between  each  piece.  Add  some  mushroom  heads  to  the 
bechamel  and  use  them  to  fill  in  the  center  of  the  circle;  lay  on  top  half-spherical  decorated  chicken 
quenelles  and  garnish  around  with  small  half  heart  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter  and  having  their 
pointed  ends  dipped  first  in  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  then  in  chopped  parsley.  The  word  "ailes" 
should  be  used  in  preference  to  the  word  "  filets  "  in  making  French  menus,  to  avoid  the  repetition 
of  this  word  which  appears  so  often  in  French. 

(1835).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  BODISKO  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Bodisko). 

Raise  the  large  fillets  from  six  two  pound  chickens;  suppress  the  skin  and  split  them  in  two 
through  their  thickness  without  detaching  the  parts;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  fill 
up  the  opened  space  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  mixed  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Break 
six  egg-yolks  in  a  dish,  add  two  gills  of  melted  butter  and  beat  them  together;  dip  the  fillets  into  this 
and  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs;  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  pan,  pour  butter  over  and  cook 
in  a  hot  oven,  then  drain.  Trim  the  pointed  ends  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  and  dress  the  fillets  in 
a  circle  filling  the  center  with  cepes  fried  in  butter,  moistened  with  sour  cream  and  reduced. 
Serve  separately  a  well  buttered  white  bordelaise  sauce  (No.  436),  thickening  it  with  egg-yolks  and 
butter,  straining  it  through  a  tammy. 

(1836).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  CERTOSA  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  k  la  Cfrtosa). 

Clean  well  six  good  fleshy  chickens;  raise  the  fillets  covered  with  their  skin  and  saute  them  in 
butter.  Prepare  a  fine  Julienne  (No.  318)  with  the  red  part  of  carrots  blanched  in  an  abundance  of 
water,  drained  and  fried  in  butter  with  mushrooms,  cut  the  same  shape  and  size,  and  also  some  truffles 
cut  likewise.  Add  the  Julienne  to  the  chickens,  moisten  with  very  little  broth  (No.  194a),  and 
Marsala  wine,  cover  the  saucepan  and  let  cook  in  a  slack  oven;  baste  and  moisten  the  chicken  slowly, 
and  as  soon  as  the  sauce  is  found  to  be  sufficiently  reduced,  thicken  it  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
egg-yolks,  and  cream,  then  dress  the  fillets  in  a  pyramid,  and  pour  the  sauce  over;  garnish  around 
with  bread-crumb  croutons  cut  heart-shaped,  and  fried  in  butter. 

(1837).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  CHISELHURST  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Chiselmirst). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  six  two  pound  chickens;  pare,  suppress  the  skin,  and  lard  six  of  them 
with  small  shreds  of  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig  52)  and  the  other  six  with  slices  of  truffles  the  same  size 
as  the  pork;  pare  the  minion  fillets  and  lard  six  with  smaller  pork  lardons  than  those  used  for  the 
fillets,  and  the  other  six  with  small  pieces  of  truffles  cut  the  same  size.     Lay 
them  in  two  separate  buttered  sautoirs,  the  truffles  in  one  and 
the  larding  pork  in  the  other,  having  previously  given  the 
minion  fillets  the  shape  of  a  crescent.     Cover  over  the  truffled 
fillets  with  thin  lardon  of  fat  pork,  and  cook  those  larded  with 
FIG.  355.  pork  on  a  brisk  fire  while  those  with  truffles  are  to  be  cooked         FlG 

more  slowly.     Dress  in  a  circle  alternating  the  two  kinds,  and 

fill  the  center  with  balls  of  truffle  mingled  with  supreme  sauce  (No.  547).  Place  the  truffled 
minions  on  top  of  the  larded  fillets  and  the  larded  minions  on  top  of  the  truffled  fillets;  cover 
with  alight  supreme  sauce,  serving  some  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 


POULTRY.  587 

(1838).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BEEASTS  A  LA  CUSSY  (Filets  on  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Cussy). 
Pare  twelve  chicken  fillets  being  careful  to  keep  the  minion  fillets  aside,  beat  these  large  fillets 
to  flatten  them,  then  pare  into  half  hearts,  rounded  on  one  side  and  pointed  on  the  other,  season 
with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Take  the  minion  fillets,  the  parings  and  as  much  raw  chicken  meat  and 
with  it  prepare  a  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  adding  to  it  a  quarter  as  much 
very  fine  mushroom  puree  (No.  722).  Pour  clarified  butter  into  a  sautoir,  heat 
it  well  and  range  the  chicken  fillets  on  top  simply  to  stiffen  on  one  side  only; 
drain  them  off  leaving  the  butter  in  the  pan  and  place  the  fillets  on  a  baking 
sheet,  one  beside  the  other,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  let  get  cold  without 
any  pressure,  then  pare.  Cover  these  fillets  with  the  cream  forcemeat,  smooth  them  well  rounded  on 
the  top  and  range  them  once  more  in  the  sautoir  containing  the  butter,  place  them  in  the  oven  to 
finish  cooking  and  to  poach  the  forcemeat;  brush  them  over  with  butter  as  soon  as  the  forcemeat 
becomes  sufficiently  solid  not  to  have  them  spoiled,  then  dress  them  rosette-shaped  on  a  dish, 
garnishing  each  pointed  end  with  a  favor  frill  (No.  10).  Serve  with  a  well  buttered  supreme  sauce 
(No.  547),  part  of  it  poured  under  the  fillets  and  the  other  part  served  separately. 

(1839).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  L'ECARLATE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a 

1'Ecarlate). 

Take  the  fillets  from  six  medium  chickens,  remove  all  the  skin  and  epidermis,  detach  the 
minion  fillets  and  free  them  of  the  sinew  and  skin  which  covers  them,  streak  them  with  pieces  of 
beef  tongue  and  form  into  rings  and  place  in  a  buttered  sautoir.  Saute  the  large  fillets  over  a 
brisk  fire  with  butter.  Cut  twelve  slices  of  very  red  beef  tongue  into  half  hearts  the  size  of  the 
fillets  and  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  warm  them  in  stock  (No.  194a)  and  just  when  ready 
to  serve,  drain  and  decorate  each  fillet  with  a  favor  frill  (No.  10),  dress  in  a  circle  having  them 
intercalated  with  the  half-hearts  of  tongue.  Poach  the  minion  fillet  rings,  fill  the  inside  of  the 
circle  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  small  mushroom  heads,  truffle  balls  and  quenelles  all  mixed 
with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  cream,  and  range  the  minion  fillets  around  the  whole; 
serve  a  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  separately. 

(1840).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS,  OHEVALET  A  L'EOUYERE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet 

^ 

Ohevalet  a  1'Ecuyere). 

Prepare  the  large  fillets  and  minion  fillets  the  same  as  for  Harrison  (No.  1844),  lay  them  on 
sheets  of  tin  bent  into  semicircles  three  inches  by  one  and  a  half  high,  well 
buttered  and  maintain  both  fillets  on  this  mold  with  wooden  skewers  run 
through  holes  bored  in  the  tin,  laying  the  streaked  minion  fillets  on  top  of  the 
larger  fillets  underneath  (Fig.  358)  baste  over  with  butter  and  cook  in  a  slow 
oven.  Truss  some  fine  crawfish  cooked  a  la  bordelaise,  dress  them  crown- 
shaped  on  a  dish  garnished  with  a  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  and  lay  the  fillets 
of  chickens  on  top  of  the  crawfish;  serve  separately  a  bordelaise  sauce  (No. 
436)  made  with  white  wine  and  having  three-sixteenths  inch  squares  of  mushrooms  added. 

(1841).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  L'lMPERATRIOE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  Im- 

peratrice). 

Procure  six  young  chickens  each  one  weighing  about  a  pound  and  a  half;  lift  off  the  breasts 
with  the  pinions  and  large  fillets  attached  and  suppress  all  sinews  and  skin.  Chop  the  fillets  on 
both  sides  without  penetrating  through  the  flesh  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  dampen 
the  surfaces  with  egg-white,  besprinkle  with  very  finely  chopped  truffles  and  over  these  spread  a 
very  thin  layer  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  dip  in  fresh  bread-crumbs  and  lay  them  on  a  buttered 
sheet,  pour  butter  over  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  Make  some  croustades  in  half  heart-shaped  but- 
tered bottomless  molds  lined  with  puff  paste  fragments  (No.  149)  rolled  out  thin;  line  them  with  but- 
tered paper  and  fill  them  with  rice  and  then  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  empty  out  and  fill  up 
with  bits  of  celery  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice,  blanched,  cooked  in  broth  and  fallen  to  a  glaze,  then 
mingled  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  thickened;  when  ready  to  use  with  egg-yolks  diluted  in 
cream  and  a  few  small  pats  of  butter.  Lay  the  breasts  on  top  of  these  croustades,  trim  the  pinions 
with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  serve  very  hot. 


588  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1842).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS,  EPICUREAN  (Pilets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  I'Epicurienne). 
Prepare  the  fillets  of  six  young  two-pound  chickens,  observing  that  they  be  white  and  tender; 
remove  the  skin  and  epidermis  and  lard  them  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  place  them 
in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  let  cook  to  attain  color  in  a  very  hot  oven,  then  drain  and  decorate  with 
frills  (No.  10).     Streak  each  minion  fillet  with  six  round  thin  slices  of  truffles, 
roll  them  into  rings  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  to  poach  in  the  oven 
without  coloring.     Dress  the  large  fillets  on  a  forcemeat  ring  and  decorate  the 
outside  with  the  minion  fillets.     Detach  the  glaze  from  the  bottom  of  the  sautoir 

FIG    359 

with  a  little  sherry  wine,  free  it  of  all  fat  and  add  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415); 
thicken  just  when  ready  to  serve  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  cream  and  fresh  butter;  run  the 
sauce  through  a  tammy  and  pour  a  part  over  the  breasts  and  minions  and  the  balance  in  a  sauce- 
boat.  Make  twelve  five-eighths  of  an  inch  diameter  balls  with  foies-gras  taken  direct  from  a  terrine, 
rubbed  through  a  sieve;  dip  them  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  very  hot  frying  fat;  place 
one  of  these  balls  in  the  center  of  each  minion  fillet  ring  and  serve  at  once. 

(1843).  CHICKEN  PILLETS  OR  WINGS  A  LA  GENIN  (Pilets  on  Ailes  de  Poulets  a  la  Genin). 

Take  the  skin  covered  fillets  from  six  chickens  with  the  wings,  and  after  paring  them  neatly, 
saute  them  in  butter  over  a  good  fire,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  when  done  and  a  fine  color, 
add  a  little  finely  chopped  shallots  and  let  these  fry  with  the  chicken  fillets,  then  add  some  finely 
minced  fresh  mushrooms;  when  these  have  evaporated  their  humidity,  moisten  with  white  wine  and 
finish  with  a  little  chicken  glaze(No.  398).  Dress  the  wings  on  half  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  fried 
in  butter;  add  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  to  the  sauce,  reduce  and  season  properly,  finishing  it 
with  a  little  foies-gras;  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  pour  over  the  fillets,  sprinkle  chopped  parsley 
over  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1844).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  HARRISON  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Harrison) 

Pare  twelve  raw  chicken  fillets  to  the  shape  of  half  hearts;  lift  off  the  minion  fillets  and 
remove  the  sinews  and  fine  skin  which  covers,  then  cut  six  bias  incisions  through  half  of  the 
thickness  of  these  minions  and  in  each  of  them  lay  a  thin  round  slice  of  truffle.  Place  the  fillets 
in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  the  scored  minions  on  top  lengthwise,  pour  butter 
over  and  cover  with  a  strong  buttered  paper;  cook  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes 
on  a,  slow  fire.  Prepare  some  boned  terrapin  a  la  Maryland  (No.  1085);  spread  a 
quarter  inch  thick  layer  of  this  on  a  baking  sheet  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  into 
oblong  pieces,  one  and  three-quarters  wide  by  three  and  a  half  long;  dip  these 
pieces  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  wipe  and  dress  the  fillets  flat  on 
these  terrapin  crusts.  Pour  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400)  with  Madeira  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  into  which  squeeze  the  juice  of 
an  orange,  adding  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  plenty  of  butter. 

(1845).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  AND  BPEASTS  A  LA  LORENZO  (Filets  et  Ailes  de  Poulets  a  la 

Lorenzo). 

Raise  the  breasts  with  the  fillets  from  six  young,  one  pound  and  three-quarters  to  two  pound 
chickens;  lift  off  the  skin  and  epidermis,  also  the  minion  fillets;  place  the  breasts  on  a  buttered 
baking  sheet  with  the  minions  scored  with  truffles  on  top,  laying  them  along 
the  thick  edge  of  the  breasts:  pour  over  butter  and  cover  with  buttered 
paper,  then  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  garnish  the  minions  with  paper  frills 
(No.  10).  Dress  crown-shaped  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  Lorenzo  garnishing 
made  as  follows: 

Lorenzo  Garnishing. — Have  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  a  few 
tarragon  leaves  added,  celery  cut  in  one  inch  pieces,  blanched  and  cooked  in 
broth  (194a);  blanched  olives  stoned  and  filled  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  containing  ancho- 
vies, whole  chestnuts  cooked  in  broth;  artichoke  bottoms  pared  into  half  hearts,  five-six- 
teenths inch  squares  of  truffles  and  some  large  capers.  The  border  for  chicken  breasts  a  la  Lo- 
renzo,  are  made  oval  and  in  the  following  manner:  Butter  a  mold  (Fig.  139)  with  butter  softened 
without  being  melted;  decorate  the  sides  either  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  or  tongue,  or  even 
both;  fill  it  up  with  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  or  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  lay  this  border 
in  a  sautoir;  pour  boiling  water  around,  set  it  in  a  slow  oven  and  when  poached,  meaning  whe\i 
firm  to  the  touch,  unmold  and  dress  the  breasts  on  top  and  the  garnishing  in  the  center. 


POULTRY.  589 

(1846)  CHICKEN  PILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  LUCULLUS  (filets    ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Lucullus). 

The  large  and  the  minion  fillets  are  to  be  prepared  as  described  in  the  Harrison  fillets  (No. 
1844),  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  twisting  slightly  so  as  to  have  them 
assume  the  shape  of  a  chop;  lay  the  minion  fillets  on  the  outside  edge  of  the 
large  fillet,  mask  with  melted  butter,  cover  with  a  strong  buttered  paper  and 
cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  trim  the  pointed  ends 
with  favor  frills  (No.  10);  dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  filling  up  the  inside  with  FlG  362 

a  garnishing  of  truffles  and  tongue  balls  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  also  capon 
kidneys,  all  to  be  mixed  with  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433)  into  which  has  been  stirred  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  meat-glaze  (No.  402). 


(1847).  CHICKEN  FILLETS    OR    BREASTS  A  LA  MAROEAU  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Marceau). 

Remove  the  breasts  from  six  chickens  each  one  of  them  to  weigh  from  a  pound  and  a  half  to 
two  pounds;  suppress  the  skin  and  sinews  and  lift  off  the  minion  fillets  to  streak  with  truffles; 
pare  the  large  fillets  into  half  heart-shapes,  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered 
sautoir;  place  the  minion  fillets  on  the  outer  edges,  pour  over  butter, 
cover  with  buttered  paper  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  Fill  with 
cream  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  75)  some  flat  quarter  inch  thick  half 
heart-shaped  molds,  placed  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  poach  very 
lightly,  then  saute  on  both  sides  in  butter  and  dress  uninolded  in  a 

circle  with  the  chicken  fillets  on  top.  Prepare  a  Marceau  sauce  (No.  495);  when  ready  to  serve  add 
a  little  fresh  butter;  fill  the  middle  of  the  circle  with  small  mushroom  heads  fried  in  butter, 
cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  send  the  remainder  to  accompany  the  dish  poured  into  a 
separate  sauce-boat. 


(1848).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  MAREOHALE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Mare"chale). 

Pare  twelve  raw  chicken  fillets;  remove  the  minion  fillets,  and  suppress  the  senews  and  skin 
which  covers  them,  then  marinate  in  salt,  pepper,  parsley  leaves,  and  lemon  juice.  Make  an  in- 
cision on  one  side  of  these  large  fillets,  and  fill  it  in  with  a  Duxelle  (No.  385),  or  else  fine  herbs 
cooked  with  truffles;  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  baste  with  clarified  butter; 
immerse  them  once  more  in  the  bread-crumbs,  and  put  on  them  a  buttered  baking  sheet;  pour  melted 
butter  over,  and  brown  in  a  brisk  oven,  or  else  broil  over  a  slow  fire,  or  even  saute  them  in  clarified 
butter;  trim  with  favors  (No.  10)  and  dress  in  a  circle  filling  in  the  inside  with  a  Toulouse  gar- 
nishing (No.  766).  Dip  the  minion  fillets  in  a  fine  light  frying  batter  (No.  137).  roll  them  up  into 
rings,  and  when  fried  and  have  attained  a  fine  color,  drain  and  dress  pyramidically  over  the  Tou- 
louse garnishing.  A  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  to  be  served  separately. 

(1849),  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA   MIRABEAU  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Mirabeau), 

Keep  the  minion  fillets  when  removing  the  fillets  or  wings  from  the  chickens;  suppress  all  the 
skin  and  sinews  from  the  large  fillets,  take  off  the  minion  fillets  and  marinate  the  larger  ones 
for  two  hours  in  a  vessel  containing  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  pars- 
ley leaves,  turning  them  over  frequently;  remove,  drain,  and  roll  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  and 
lastly  in  bread-crumbs;  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Pare  the  minion  fillets  into  oblongs,  spread  over  a 
layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 89),  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  roll  them  into  cylin- 
der shapes,  now  range  them  inside  a  buttered  timbale  mold  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven.  Dress  the 
chicken  breasts  in  the  center  of  a  dish  on  top  of  a  little  Mirabeau  sauce  (No.  500),  surround  them 
with  the  prepared  paupiettes,  and  on  every  one  of  these  lay  a  channeled  mushroom  (No.  118) 
cooked  and  glazed  in  chicken  glaze  (No.  398).  Serve  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  same  sauce. 


590  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1850).  CHICKEN  HLLETS  OE  BREASTS  A  LA  PATTI  (Pilets  on  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Patti). 

Raise  the  large  fillets  from  six  young,  two  pound  chickens  that  are  quite  fleshy,  suppress  the 
skin  and  epidermis;  remove  the  minion  fillets  and  from  them  the  nerves  and  skin;  streak  these  with 
red  beet'  tongue.  Cut  an  incision  through  one  side  of  the  large  fillets  without  detaching  the  parts; 
turn  over  so  that  the  cut  part  is  now  outside;  fill  in  the  inside  with  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which  incorporate  some  foies-gras  pressed 
through  a  sieve;  make  the  fillet  oval-shape  like  an  egg,  and  lay  the 
F  streaked  minion  fillet  along  the  top  of  it.  Place  in  a  buttered  sautoir, 

cover  each  fillet  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Prepare  a  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  border  decorated  with  pistachios;  poach,  unmold,  and  dress  with 
the  fillets  or  breasts  over,  garnishing  with  favor  frills  (No  10);  fill  the  inside  of  this  border  with  very 
thick,  well  buttered  chicken  puree  (No.  713),  into  which  add  half  the  same  quantity  of  rice  boiled 
in  almond  milk  (No.  4).  Garnish  around  with  sliced  truffles  heated  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No. 
402),  butter  and  Madeira,  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  supreme  sauce  (No.  547). 


(1851).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OE  BEEASTS  A  LA  PEIMATIOE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Primatice), 

Clean  and  singe  six  two  pound  chickens;  lift  off  the  large  fillets  and  detach  the  minions,  remove 
the  skin  and  epidermis  from  the  large  fillets  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir.  Suppress  the 
sinews  from  the  minion  fillets,  also  the  fine  skin  which  covers  and  cut  six  incisions  at  equal  dis- 
tances on  their  length;  insert  an  oblong  piece  of  truffle  into  the  first  incision  beginning  at  the 
smallest  end;  an  oblong  of  tongue  into  the  second  incision,  and  so  on,  alternating  them  until  the 
entire  six  are  filled,  then  twist  the  minions  into  a  round-shape  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir; 
use  a  cornet  to  push  into  the  centers  some  forcemeat  having  half  quenelle  (No.  89)  and  half  cream 
(No.  75),  both  well  mixed  together  and  set  a  round  piece  of  truffle  on  top,  having  it  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  thick  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  pour  over  melted  butter,  cover  over  with 
strong  buttered  paper  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  six  to  eight  minutes.  Saute  the  large  fillets 
on  a  quick  fire,  then  dress  them  in  a  flat  circle  over  croutons  of  bread  cut  the  same  shape,  but 
slightly  narrower.  On  each  fillet  lay  one  minion  fillet  and  fill  the  inside  of  the  circle  with  a  gar- 
nishing of  fillets  of  mushrooms  an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide  by  five-eighths  of  an  inch  long;  green 
peas,  lozenge-shaped  string  beans,  the  red  part  of  a  carrot  cut  in  triangles,  quarter  of  an  inch 
squares  of  turnips,  truffles  cut  olive-shaped,  and  semi-circular  pieces  of  tongue,  all  of  those 
being  added  to  a  little  veloute  (No.  415)  and  fresh  butter.  Have  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with 
truffle  essence  (No.  395)  served  at  the  same  time,  but  separately. 


(1852).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OE  BEEASTS  A  LA  PEINOIEEE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Foulet  a  la 

Princiere). 

Choose  six  well-cleansed  chickens,  each  one  to  weigh  a  pound  and  three-quarters  to  two 
pounds;  remove  the  large  fillets  leaving  the  pinion  on,  with  the  bone  kept  rather  long;  lift  off  the 
minion  fillets,  also  suppress  the  large  fillets'  skin  and  the  thin  skin  covering  the  minions;  dip  the 
latter  in  egg-whites,  then  roll  in  very  finely  chopped  pistachios,  pre- 
viously run  through  a  sieve;  twist  them  around  the  finger  to  form  a 
circle  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  cover  with  a  sheet  of  but- 
tered paper  and  poach  just  when  ready  to  serve  only;  this  will  take  but 
five  minutes  on  a  moderate  fire.  Chop  the  surface  of  the  large  fillet 
without  misshaping  it  whatever,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
then  cover  over  with  chicken  forcemeat  and  dredge  or  throw  over  FIG.  365. 

finely  chopped  truffles,  lay  these  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  shaping  them  all 

alike,  six  with  the  pinions  on  the  right  and  six  with  the  pinions  on  the  left,  then  cook  in  a  slack 
oven.  When  done  remove  and  run  a  ring  cut  from  beef  tongue  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  on 
the  pinion  bone  and  decorate  this  also  with  a  frill  (No.  10).  Dress  crown-shaped  filling  in  the 
interior  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  cocks' -combs  and  kidneys,  also  slices  of  foies-gras,  the 
whole  combined  with  supreme  sauce  (No.  547).  Poach  the  minion  fillets  and  dress  them  around, 
serving  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  supreme  sauce. 


POULTRY.  591 

(1853).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  SADI-OARNOT  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la 

Sadi-Carnot). 

To  be  made  with  twelve  breasts.  Fry  a  chopped  shallot  in  butter  keeping  it  quite  colorless 
and  add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  minced  truffles,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  fresh 
mushrooms  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  fry  the  whole  for  a  few  moments  on  the  fire, 
then  add  a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  season  and  let  get  partially  cold  before  stirring  in  three 
raw  egg-yolks.  Eemove  the  skin  and  epidermis  from  the  breasts  and  cut  five  gashes  on  the  top  of 
the  minion  fillets;  introduce  in  each  gash  a  thin  round  of  truffle  half  an  inch  in  diameter  form  the 
fillets  into  rings  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  filling  their  interiors  with  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  89)  and  on  top  of  this  set  a  five-eighths  of  an  inch  round  of  truffle.  Split  the  large  fillets 
through  their  sides  and  fill  them  with  the  above  preparation,  then  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with 
clarified  butter  and  lemon  juice;  saute,  drain,  garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  dress  in  a 
circle  on  half  heart-shaped  croutons  of  bread-crumbs  fried  in  butter,  cover  with  a  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549)  and  Bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  mixed  and  garnish  around  the  large  fillets  with  the 
minion  fillets,  glazing  the  slices  of  truffles  with  meat  glaze. 

(1854).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  TOULOUSE  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Tou- 

louse). 

Pare  twelve  raw  chicken  fillets;  take  off  the  minion  fillets,  cut  in  the  large  fillet  a  deep  gash 
lengthwise  without  separating  the  pieces,  turn  the  meat  over  so  that  the  gashed  part  is  now  out- 
side and  fill  in  the  inside  with  a  well  mixed  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  foies-gras  that  has 
been  passed  through  a  sieve  half  of  each,  having  as  much  as  would  make  an  inch  and  a  half 
diameter  ball;  envelop  well  this  dressing  in  the  flesh  of  the  fillet,  shaping  them  into  pretty  ovals  and 
well  rounded  on  the  top  (Fig.  364);  put  in  more  or  less  forcemeat,  according  to  the  size  of  the  fillet 
so  that  when  they  are  finished  they  look  all  alike;  lay  on  top  of  each  of  these  a  small  minion  fillet 
streaked  by  cutting  six  incisions  and  placing  in  each  one  a  thin  slice  of  truffle  proportioned  to  the 
size  of  the  minion  fillet.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter,  lay  over  the  chicken 
fillets  at  equal  distances  apart,  pour  over  more  melted  butter  and  cover  with  a  strong  buttered 
paper;  cook  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes,  drain,  trim  with  favor  frills  (No. 
10)  and  dress  in  a  circle;  pour  into  the  center  a  Toulouse  garnishing  (No.  766). 

(1855).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  VALENQAY  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Val- 


Pare  twelve  raw  chicken  fillets  without  detaching  the  minion  fillet;  cut  a  gash  down  the  whole 
length  and  in  the  middle  of  each  fillet  without  separating  the  parts;  turn  the  meat  inside  out 
fill  the  inside  space  with  a  preparation  of  chopped  truffles  fried  in  butter  and  thickened  with  meat 
glaze  then  allowed  to  cool  off  and  mix  with  one  egg-yolk.  Dip  each  one  of 
the  fillets  in  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  cream  and  when  they  are 
quite  cold,  immerse  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  in  fresh  white  bread-crumbs; 
smooth  them  shapely  with  the  blade  of  a  knife.  At  the  last  moment  range  the 
fillets  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter  and  brown  them  on  both  sides  over  a  FlG-  366- 

moderate  fire;  drain  and  trim  with  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  in  a  circle  filling  the  inside  space 
with  tomatoes  prepared  as  follows:  Cut  medium-sized  sound  and  peeled  tomatoes  into  quarters, 
press  out  the  juice  and  seeds,  then  fry  them  in  butter  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar. 
Serve  a  half  -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira  separately. 

(1856).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OR  BREASTS  A  LA  VALERRI  (Filets  ou  Ailes  de  Poulet  a  la  Valerri). 
Prepare  twelve  fillets  by  removing  the  thin  skin  covering  them;  remove  the  minion  fillets  to 
streak  with  red  beef  tongue;  turn  each  one  of  these  around  a  large  Spanish  olive,  replacing  its 
stone  by  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  pushed  through  a  cornet;  on  top  of  this 
forcemeat  set  a  small  truffle  ball.     Lay  these  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  cover  with 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,   and  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven,  just 
when  ready  to  use.     Saute  the  large  fillets  lightly  with  butter  and 
lemon  juice,  and  lay  them  under  a  weight,  then  divide  them  in  two 
through  their  entire  thickness.     Range  half  of  them  very  closely     FIG.  368. 
together,  and  pour  over  a  layer  of  soubise  (No.   723),  having  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  set  the  other  twelve  halves  on  top  of  these  halves,  and  leave  till  cold,  then  pare  them 
all  evenly  into  half  heart-shapes;  dip  each  separate  double  piece  in  well  reduced  but  partially  cold 


592  THE    EPICUREAN. 

allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  let  cool  off  again,  then  dip  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry 
in  clarified  butter;  drain,  trim  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  and  dress  in  a  circle;  fill  up  the  center 
with  mushrooms  sauted  in  butter  and  fine  herbs,  pour  over  some  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and  Madeira, 
and  set  the  minion  fillets  on  top  of  these  mushrooms.  Serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  half -glaze 
sauce  (No.  413). 

(1857).  CHICKEN  A  LA  VILLEBOI  (Poulet  a  la  Villeroi). 

An  entree  of  chicken  a  la  Villeroi  arranged  and  dressed  as  in  Fig.  369  can  be  served  at  the  most 
elegant  dinners.  This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  with  a  round  and  slightly  conical 
support  in  the  center,  both  being  covered  with  cooked  or  noodle  paste  (No.  142).  Cook  about 
fifteen  fine,  turned,  very  white,  even  sized  mushroom  heads.  Select  three  good,  tender  chickens, 
not  too  large,  but  quite  fleshy;  when  well  cleaned,  truss  and  cover  over  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork 
and  "poele1 "  them  in  some  good  stock  (No.  12),  keeping  them  quite  rare;  drain,  untruss  and  cut  each 
chicken  into  five  pieces;  first  take  the  legs  while  still  very  hot,  and  quickly  remove  the  large  second 
joint  bone;  cut  off  the  stump  at  two-thirds  of  its  length  and  range  them  on  a  small  baking  tin,  one 
beside  the  other,  letting  them  cool  off  under  a  weight.  Detach  the  upper  part  of  the  breasts  from 
the  bodies,  suppress  the  breast  bones,  pare  them  into  oblongs  and  also  leave  to  cool.  Remove  the 


FIG.  369. 

skin  from  the  fillets,  pare  them  prettily,  detaching  the  pinion  bone  and  cutting  away  the  flesh  from 
around.  Trim  the  legs  the  same  shape  as  the  fillets  and  imitate  the  minion  bone  by  the  shortened 
stump.  Dip  each  one  of  these  pieces  separately  into  a  well  seasoned,  succulent  and  thick  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  and  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560)  mixed;  return  them  at  once  to  the  same  tin  they  were 
taken  from,  and  leave  to  cool  for  a  couple  of  hours;  now  take  up  the  pieces  one  by  one,  detach  any 
surplus  of  sauce  and  roll  them  immediately  in  fresh  white  bread-crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  beaten 
eggs  and  bread-crumb  once  more;  shake  them  nicely  without  handling  them  too  much,  and  place 
them  in  a  frying  basket  (Fig.  121);  fry  in  very  hot  fat  till  a  good  color  is  acquired,  then  drain  and 
dress  the  legs  and  fillets  against  the  support  almost  upright  one  piece  slightly  overlapping  the  other; 
on  the  summit  of  the  support  lay  a  bed  of  fried  parsley  and  over  this  the  breasts  pyramidically 
arranged;  set  the  mushroom  heads  in  a  row  around  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  cover  over  with  a  little 
of  the  veloute  and  serve  the  entree  at  once. 

(1858).   CHICKEN    PILLETS    OE    BEEASTS    AU  SUPEEME  (Filets  on    Ailes  de  Poulet  au 

Supreme). 

Select  six  medium  chickens  of  two  pounds  each,  remove  the  large  fillets,  also  their  skin  and 
epidermis;  pare  these  into  half  hearts  and  range  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  on  top 
of  the  thickest  part  of  these  lay  the  minion  fillet  in  a  half  circle  after  it  has 
been  scored;  pour  over  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  Set  some  superme  sauce  (No.  547)  and  chicken 
glaze  (No.  389)  in  a  sautoir  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  stir  in  fresh  butter^ 
FIG.  370.  cream  and  six  ounces  of  peeled  and  sliced  truffles.  Trim  all  the  fillets  with 

favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  dress  them  in  a  circle  filling  in  the  inside  with  the 
sliced  truffles  and  sauce.     Serve  a  sauce-boat  of  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  at  the  same  time. 

(1859).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  OE  BEEASTS,  MEXICAN  STYLE,  IN  PAPEES  (Filets  on  Ailes  de 

Poulet  a  la  Mexicaine  en  Papillotes). 

Kemove  the  fillets  from  six  fine  medium-sized  chickens;  pare  them  leaving  on  the  pinions  and 
skin,  then  saut6  them,  and  when  done  wrap  them  up  in  a  matignon  with  white  wine  (No.  406), 
adding  peeled  tomatoes  cut  in  eight  pieces,  fried  in  butter  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and 


POULTRY.  593 

Chopped  parsley.  Prepare  some  sheets  of  paper  heart-shaped  and  well  oiled;  place  on  one  half  a 
little  of  the  cooked  matignon,  the  tomatoes,  some  risot  (No.  739)  &nd  fried  sweet  peppers;  lay  one 
of  the  breasts  or  fillets  on  top  and  cover  with  more  of  the  ingredients,  then  close  by  pinching  the 
two  edges  together  all  around  and  lay  them  on  a  buttered  dish;  place  in  a  hot  oven  to  heat  the  con- 
tents and  color  the  paper;  serve  immediately. 

(1860),  CHICKEN  PILLETS  OE  BEEASTS  WITH  CUCUMBERS  (Filets  on  Ailes  de  Poulet  aux 

Concombres). 

Obtain  some  very  small  clean  chickens,  raise  the  fillets  and  remove  the  minion  fillets;  pare  the 
large  fillets,  suppress  the  skin  and  lard  the  tops  with  fine  lardons  (No.  4, 
Fig.  52)  of  larding  pork,  season  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  but- 
ter, place  this  on  a  hot  fire  and  two  minutes  later,  remove  and  put  them 
into  a  hot  oven  to  let  cook  rare,  but  of  a  fine  color,  then  glaze  over 
with  a  brush,  remove,  drain  and  garnish  the  ends  with  favor  frills  (No. 
10).     Dress  into  the  middle  of  a  hot  dish  a  garnishing  of  pur6e  of  cucum- 
bers (No.  714),  smooth  the  surface  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  dress  the  chicken  fillets  on  the 
outside,  pouring  some  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  around  and  serving  more  in  a  sauce  boat. 

(1861).  CHICKEN  PEIOASSEE  (Fricassee  de  Poulet), 

Take  a  well  cleansed  chicken  of  two  and  a  half  to  three  pounds;  cut  the  two  fillets,  the  legs, 
the  breast  in  one,  back  in  two  and  two  wings  retaining  all  the  skin.  Fill  a  saucepan  with  cold 
water,  and  soak  the  pieces  of  chicken  in  it  for  one  hour,  then  throw  this  off  and  replace  it  by 
one  quart  of  cold  water  adding  to  it  two  medium  onions,  one  containing  a  clove,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf  and  thyme,  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  the  chickens,  skim  and  let 
simmer  gently,  be  sure  that  the  chicken  is  cooked  before  taking  them  out,  and  when  done,  drain 
on  a  colander,  then  lay  the  pieces  in  cold  water;  make  a  roux  with  three  ounces  of  butter 
and  three  ounces  of  flour,  cook  for  a  few  moments  without  browning,  then  put  in  the  chicken  stock 
and  the  liquid  from  a  pound  of  mushroom  heads,  as  soon  as  the  sauce  comes  to  a  boil,  remove  it 
to  the  corner  of  the  range  for  half  an  hour.  Pare  and  clean  the  pieces  of  chicken  carefully,  lay 
them  in  a  low  saucepan,  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  sauce  and  pour  it  through  a  wire  sieve  on 
the  chicken,  cover  and  heat  it  over  a  slow  fire,  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks  and  one  ounce  of  butter 
by  first  diluting  the  yolks  with  a  little  of  the  sance  and  increasing  gradually  until  half  the  sauce  is 
combined  with  the  eggs,  then  stir  it  all  together,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  roll  the  pieces  in;  after  the 
sauce  thickens,  strain  it  again  through  a  tammy,  add  the  mushrooms  to  the  sauce.  Dress 
the  chicken  by  forming  a  high  square  with  the  two  back  pieces  and  the  two  wings,  in  the  center  of 
the  dish;  place  the  two  fillets  and  two  legs  against  the  square  and  the  piece  of  breast  on  top,  cover 
with  the  sauce,  putting  the  mushrooms  on  the  four  corners,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  garnish  around 
with  small  round  rice  croquettes  made  with  almond  milk. 

(1862).  CHICKEN  FKIOASSEE  A  LA  BOUOHAED  (Fricasse'e  de  Poulet  a  la  Bouchard), 

Singe  and  cut  up  the  chickens  as  for  a  plain  fricassee  (No.  1861),  fry  them  without  letting  attain 
a  color  in  some  butter,  and  add  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well  and  pour  in  a  pint  of 
chablis  wine,  some  broth  (No.  194a),  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  cook  very  slowly 
and  when  done,  take  out  the  pieces  of  chicken;  thicken  the  sauce  with  four  egg-yolks  and  a  little 
butter,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  fcammy  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  add  two  chopped  blanched 
shallots;  some  tarragon  leaves  and  chopped  parsley.  Pour  this  over  the  chicken,  garnishing  around 
with  Villeroi  oysters  (No.  698),  and  mushroom  heads  fried  in  butter,  then  tossed  in  meat-glaze 
(No.  402),  butter  and  lemon  juice;  serve  immediately. 

(1863).  CHICKEN  PEICASSEE  A  LA  CHEVALIEEE  (Fricasse'e  de  Poulet  a  la  Ohevaliere), 
After  the  chickens  are  singed,  remove  the  pouch  and  raise  the  fillets  whole,  with  the  pinions; 
slide  the  blade  of  a  keen,  thin  knife  between  the  meat  and  skin  covering  the  fillets,  !ard  them  over 
with  fine  shreds  of  pork  and  lay  them  in  a  lightly  buttered  sauteing  pan.  Pare  the  minion 
fillets  and  lard  them  with  either  truffles  or  tongue,  then  shape  them  into  rounds,  two  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter;  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  on  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Cut  up  the  remain- 
der of  the  chickens  and  cook  them  the  same  as  for  the  plain  chicken  fricassee  (No.  1861).  Trim  the 


594  THE    EPICTJK-EAN. 

legs  and  bread-crumb  them.  Prepare  and  cook  a  croustade  the  same  width  as  the  serving  dish, 
having  it  three  inches  high,  glaze  the  larded  fillets;  cook  the  minion  fillets,  and  fry  the  legs  to  a 
nice  golden  color.  Dress  the  backs  and  wings  in  the  center  of  the  croustade;  cover  lightly  with 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  then  range  the  legs  leaving  them  against  the  backs;  place  the  larded 
fillets  between  these  legs,  and  the  minion  fillets  around;  in  each  of  the  latter  set  a  fine  glazed  truffle, 
then  glaze  the  fillets.  Serve  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  thickened  when  ready,  with  egg-yolks, 
butter,  and  cream;  heat  well  without  boiling,  and  throw  in  some  chopped  mushrooms. 

(1864),  CHICKEN  FKIOASSEE  A  LA  PAVOEITE  (Fricassee  de  Poulet  a  la  Favorite). 
Prepare  and  cut  up  the  chickens  the  same  as  for  the  plain  fricassee  (No.  1861);  soak  the  pieces 
for  half  an  hour,  then  drain  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan  to  moisten  with  white  broth  (No. 
194a):  cook  the  chicken,  drain  it  in  a  colander,  and  run  the  liquid  through  a  napkin;  put  it  back  on 
the  fire  to  reduce  to  half  adding  eight  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  then  reduce  once  more  until  the 
sauce  adheres  to  the  spoon,  afterward  finish  with  egg-yolks  and  butter.  Strain  through  a  tammy,  and 
keep  hot  in  a  bain-marie.  Wash  thoroughly  the  pieces  of  cooked  chicken  in  cold  water;  pare 
nicely,  and  place  them  in  the  sauce;  after  they  are  well  heated,  dress  and  garnish  around  with  a 
cluster  of  carrot  balls  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  stock  (No.  194a) 
and  a  little  sugar,  also  small  white  onions  cooked  in  white  broth.  Decorate  the  outside  with  small 
flat  egg-plant  croquettes  containing  mushrooms  and  truffles,  and  use  also  trussed  crawfish  for  the 
ornamentation. 

(1865).  CHICKEN  FKIOASSEE  A  LA  LUCIUS  (Fricassee  de  Poulet  a  la  Lucius). 
Draw  and  singe  a  clean,  white  meat  three  pound  chicken,  cut  it  up  into  eight  pieces  and  split 
the  carcass  in  two,  also  the  neck  and  legs,  wash  these  pieces  in  tepid  water,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan containing  water  to  heat,  simply  to  stiffen  the  meat,  then  drain,  refresh  and  wipe  well  on  a 
cloth.  Boil  half  a  pound  of  blanched  rice  in  broth  for  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  white  and  con- 
sistent; when  ready  pour  it  into  a  plain  buttered  border  mold  (Fig.  139),  pressing  it  down  well  and 
keep  it  in  a  warm  heater  for  eight  minutes.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  pieces 
of  chicken  with  a  garnished  bouquet  (No.  123),  two  quartered  onions,  salt  and  pepper  corns,  fry 
the  chicken  over  a  good  fire  without  browning,  dredge  over  a  heaping  spoonful  of  flour  and 
continue  cooking  two  minutes  while  stirring,  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  pour  in  grad- 
ually some  hot  stock  (No.  194a),  stirring  until  it  reaches  boiling  point;  let  cook  for  eight  minutes 
on  a  moderate  fire,  then  remove  it  to  a  slower  fire  to  finish  cooking  the  chicken;  as  fast  as  each  of 
the  pieces  are  done;  the  tenderest  ones  first,  take  them  out,  suppressing  the  legs  and  car- 
casses, then  pare  the  remainder  and  lay  them  in  another  saucepan,  strain  the  sauce,  reduce  it  for 
a  few  moments  to  thicken,  pour  it  over  the  chicken  and  finally  finish  the  fricassee  with  a 
thickening  of  two  raw  egg-yolks,  half  a  gill  of  cream  and  an  ounce  of  butter  divided  in 
small  pats;  cook  this  thickening  without  letting  it  boil,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Dress 
the  fricassee  inside  the  rice  border,  unmold  it  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  moderately  with  the  sauce 
and  send  the  remainder  to  the  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1866).  CHICKEN  FKIOASSEE  A  LA  WALESKI  (Fricassee  de  Poulet  a  la  Waleski). 
Take  three  medium  chickens  each  one  to  weigh  two  pound  and  a  half;  cut  both  up  into  seven 
pieces  each,  the  two  legs,  two  fillets,  two  from  the  back  and  one  breast  bone;  steep  them  in  cold 
water  for  an  hour,  then  drain  and  range  in  a  saucepan;  moisten  to  cover  with  broth  (No.  194a)  adding 
a  medium  carrot  cut  in  four,  a  middle-sized  onion,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  one  clove,  and  peppercorns;  allow  the  chickens  to  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  and 
reserve  the  broth;  refresh  and  sponge  the  pieces  on  a  cloth,  paring  them  neatly.  Melt  three 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  lay  in  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  fry  rapidly  without  browning;  a 
few  moments  later  cover  with  some  clear  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415),  prepared  with  the  chicken  broth 
and  a  glassful  of  white  wine;  boil  up  this  liquid  once,  then  set  the  saucepan  on  one  side  of  the 
fire  to  finish  cooking  the  contents;  when  done,  free  the  sauce  of  all  its  fat  before  straining  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  sautoir,  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  mushroom  broth.  Reduce  while 
stirring  from  the  bottom  of  the  sautoir  until  a  thick,  succulent  sauce  is  obtained,  then  put  in  a 
thickening  of  six  egg-yolks,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580).  Strain  this 
through  a  tammy  over  the  pieces  of  chicken,  remaining  in  the  saucepan.  Just  when  serving 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Dress  in  a  thin  border  of  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  decorated 
with  truffles;  surround  this  border  with  a  circle  of  sauted  sweet  peppers  (No.  2769),  with  mush- 
room heads  on  top,  and  a  trussed  crawfish  between  every  one.  Serve  the  surplus  of  sauce  in  a. 
sauce-boat. 


POULTRY.  595 

(1867).  CHICKEN  PEICASSEE  WITH  CRUSTACEAN  SAUCE  (Fricassee  de  Poulet  an  Coulis  de 

Crustace"s). 

Wash  in  plenty  of  water,  then  cook  four  dozen  crawfish  with  white  wine,  an  onion,  parsley 
roots,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  a  grain  of  pepper  and  salt;  let  cook  over  a  brisk  fire  for  five  minutes,  and 
after  the  first  boil  strain  the  broth  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  through  a  napkin;  let  it  settle  and 
pour  the  top  off  gently.  Detach  the  tails  from  the  crawfish  bodies,  pick  out  the  meats,  trim  and 
keep  them  hot  while  covered.  Chop  up  the  tail  parings  and  the  claw  meats,  mix  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  cooked  chopped  mushrooms,  season  and  add  a  very  thick  bechamel  (No.  409)  reduced 
with  a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  so  as  to  have  a  consistent  preparation,  then  peason  with  a 
coffeespoon  of  prepared  red  paper  (No.  168);  keep  this  in  a  bain-marie.  Fasten  a  fried  bread  sup- 
port on  a  dish.  Put  into  a  sautoir  containing  butter,  two  two-pound  chickens  each  one  divided 
into  five  pieces  and  parboiled  in  water,  removing  them  at  the  first  broil  to  drain,  and  fry  in 
butter,  keeping  them  white;  season,  dredge  over  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  for  each  chicken,  moisten 
gradually  with  hot  broth  (No.  194a)  and  boil  the  liquid  without  ceasing  to  stir,  letting  it  be  in 
this  state  for  eight  to  ten  minutes;  finish  cooking  the  chickens  over  a  slow  fire.  Use  the  crawfish 
hash  to  fill  some  hollow  semicircular  crusts;  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  the  reduced  thick  bechamel 
(No.  409)  bestrew  with  grated  parmesan  and  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123);  when  the 
chickens  are  ready  dress  them  on  the  dish  leaning  against  the  prepared  support  intercalating  them 
with  the  crawfish  tails;  reduce  the  sauce  by  incorporating  into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  crawfish 
liquor  and  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks  and  half  a  gill  of  cream,  finishing  with  red  butter  (No. 
580).  Strain  some  of  this  over  the  chickens  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat;  surround 
the  chickens  with  the  filled  crusts  after  they  are  baked  and  browned. 


(1868).  CHICKEN  FRICASSEE  WITH  CURRY  (Fricassee  de  Poulet  an  Kari). 

Divide  two  small  chickens  of  a  pound  and  a  half  each  after  cleaning  well  into  four  distinct 
parts;  pare  them  well.  Put  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  a  saucepan  and  fry  with 
butter  till  of  a  fine  color;  add  the  pieces  of  chicken,  toss  them  for  two  minutes  and  season,  sprink- 
ling two  dessertspoonfuls  of  powdered  curry  over.  Moisten  to  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a), 
put  in  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Peel  and  chop  up  a  small  sour 
apple,  add  it  to  the  chicken  and  let  cook  over  a  slow  fire,  taking  out  the  fillets  as  soon  as  they  are 
done;  then  remove  the  legs  and  place  them  in  another  saucepan  with  the  fillets.  Strain  the  sauce 
and  reduce  it  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  raw  cream  and  as  much  mushroom  broth;  take  it  off 
the  fire,  thicken  with  three  egg-yolks  diluted  with  cream  and  a  piece  of  butter  divided  into 
small  pats.  Dress  the  chickens,  cover  over  with  the  sauce  and  serve  a  vegetable  dishful  of 
Indian  rice. 

(1869).  CHICKEN,  MARINADE  SAUCE-FRIED  (Poulet  Friteau  a  la  Sauce  Marinade). 

Cut  off  the  stumps  and  pinions  from  two  chickens  each  one  a  pound  and  a  half  in  weight,  singe, 
draw  and  free  them  well  of  their  pin  feathers,  cut  them  both  into  five  pieces,  two  legs,  two  wings 
and  the  breast,  suppress  the  second  joint  bones  from  the  legs  and  the  wish  bone  from  the  breast. 
Lay  the  pieces  in  a  vessel  to  season  and  marinate  in  oil  and  lemon  juice  with  sliced  onions  and 
parsley  leaves;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serving,  drain  off  the  chickens,  wipe  them  nicely  on  a 
cloth,  dip  in  cold  milk,  roll  in  flour  and  plunge  one  piece  at  the  time  in  hot  frying  fat,  observing 
that  those  taking  the  longest  to  cook  must  be  the  first  ones  to  be  put  in;  fry  them  to  a  nice 
color,  but  not  too  rapidly,  as  fast  as  one  piece  is  done,  take  it  out  and  drain  it  on  a  cloth,  salt  over 
and  dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin.  Send  to  the  table  accompanied  by  a  sauce-boatful  of 
marinade  sauce  (No.  496),  or  else  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522),  or  a  green  sauce  (No.  473). 

(1870).  CHICKEN,  MEDIOIS-FRIED  (Poulet  Friteau  Medicis). 

Lard  two  two  and  a  half  pound  very  white  chickens  with  truffles  after  they  have  been  singed, 
drawn  and  well  cleaned.  Braise  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork  and  mois- 
tened with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  and  two  gills  of  white  wine,  when  done,  lay  them  in  an 
earthenware  vessel  and  cover  with  their  own  strained  broth,  leaving  them  thus  until  thoroughly 
cold,  then  cut  them  up  into  ten  medium-sized  pieces  each,  making  two  of  each  fillet,  two  of  each 
leg  and  two  of  the  breastbone.  Place  these  in  a  vessel  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  pepper 
and  salt,  leave  them  in  this  pickle  for  two  hours.  Heat  about  three  pounds  of  good  fresh  lard, 


59G  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

when  very  hot,  dip  each  separate  piece  of  chicken  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  then  in  the  fat  to 
fry  to  a  fine  color,  having  them  thoroughly  warmed  throughout.  Drain,  salt  over  and  dress  in  a 
pyramidical  form  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  the  top  with  a  bunch  of  fried 
parsley.  Serve  a  cream  bechamel  sauce  with  chopped  truffles  (No.  411),  separately. 

(1871).  GRENADES  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  RITTI  (Grenades  de  Poulet  a  la  Eitti). 
Pare  some  chicken  fillets,  remove  the  skin  and  lard  with  the  smallest  sized  lardons  (No.  4,  Fig. 
52),  place  them  in  a  sautoir,  the  bottom  covered  with  thin  bardes  of  fat  pork,  keeping  the  pointed 
ends  lying  toward  the  center  of  the  pan;  moisten  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  and  mushroom 
liquor,  then  cook  on  a  hot  fire  and  glaze,  drain  and  dress  them  on  croutons  the  same  size  and 
shape.  Put  the  minion  fillets  in  a  buttered  sautoir  after  twisting  them  into  lings,  fill  the  centers 
through  a  cornet  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  on  this  lay  a  ball  of  truffle;  cover  with 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Dress  the  grenades  in  a  circle  and  the  minions 
around,  fill  the  middle  with  some  foies-gras,  mixed  with  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  glaze  the 
grenades  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 

(1872).  JAMBALAIA  OF  CHICKEN  (Jambalaia  de  Poulet). 

Cook  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  the  same  as  explained  below,  having  the  grains  swollen 
but  not  broken  and  keep  it  dry  at  the  oven  door.  Cut  three  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  in  three- 
eighths  inch  dice,  also  six  ounces  of  cooked  chicken  meat,  suppressing  all  bones  and  skin  and  having 
them  one  size.  Warm  the  ham  in  a  saute-pan  with  butter,  add  to  it  the  pieces  of  chicken  to  heat 
while  tossing,  season  and  sprinkle  over  lightly  with  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  then  put  in  the 
well  drained  rice,  toss  it  with  the  meats  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  vegetable  dish. 

Indian  Rice,  which  is  generally  served  as  a  garnishing  for  chicken  or  veal  is  prepared  with 
Indian  rice,  it  having  long,  white  and  very  perfect  grains;  plunge  a  sufficiency  of  this  into  a 
liberal  supply  of  boiling  water,  after  it  has  been  washed  and  picked,  and  as  soon  as  it  ceases 
to  crack  between  the  teeth,  drain  it  on  a  colander;  wash  it  in  tepid  salted  water,  spread  it  on  a 
large  sieve  covered  with  a  white  cloth  and  dry  for  a  few  moments  at  the  oven  door  or  else  in  a  hot 
steamer.  Dress  on  a  vegetable  dish,  cover  over  and  serve.  This  is  the  most  simple  and  effectual 
method. 

(1873).  CHICKENS  LEGS  A  LA  SAULNIERE-BIGARRURES  (Bigarrures  de  Cuisses  de  Poulet  a 

la  Saulniere). 

Bone  the  legs  of  some  young  chickens  leaving  on  only  half  of  the  drumstick,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fill  the  insides  with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89),  mixing  in  with  it  one-third  of 
cooked  forcemeat  (No.  73),  and  some  chopped  parsley;  lard  those  taken  from  the  right  with  med- 
ium lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  and  stud  those  taken  from  the  left  with  truffles,  covering  these  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Cook  them  in  two  low  saucepans  lined  with  fat  pork  and  moistened  with 
a  mirepoix  and  white  wine  stock  (No.  419);  cover  over  with  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and  cook  in 
the  oven.  Glaze  those  that  are  larded,  and  when  done  drain  and  decorate  with  paper  frills  (No. 
10).  Dress  in  a  circle  filling  up  the  interior  space  with  a  financiere  garnishing  (No.  667). 

(1874).  CHICKENS'  LEGS,  AMERICAN  STYLE- DEVILED  (Ouisses  de  Poulet  a  1'Amencaine    a 

la  Diable). 

Broil  slowly  some  chicken  legs  and  when  well  done,  dip  them  in  English  mustard  diluted 
with  mushroom  catsup,  salt,  and  cayenne,  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  broil  again  over  a 
slow  fire  until  they  acquire  a  fine  color.  Dress,  pour  lightly  melted  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581) 
over,  or  else  a  deviled  sauce  (No.  459)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 

(1875).  CHICKENS'  LEGS  AS  OUTLETS  WITH  OLIVES  (Cuisses  de  Poulet  en  Cotelettes  aux  Olives). 
Take  the  legs  of  six  young  chickens;  bone  them  keeping  on  part  of  the  drumsticks,  but  do  not 
open;  suppress  well  the  sinews,  season  and  stuff  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  fine 
herbs  (No.  385);  sew  them  up  with  coarse  thread,  leaving  them  in  their  original  shape,  range 
them  in  a  flat  saucepan  one  beside  the  other,  salt  over  lightly,  moisten  just  to  cover  with  stock  (No. 
194a)  and  lay  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  on  top,  then  cook  the  whole  very  slowly.  Drain  off  the 
legs,  and  let  cool  between  two  boards  or  in  the  press  (Fig.  71),  pressing  them  down  lightly;  unsew 
and  pare  all  around  and  on  the  ends,  season  and  then  dip  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs 


POULTRY.  597 

Kange  them  one  beside  the  other  in  a  flat  sauce-pan  with  melted  butter,  return  them  to  a  hot 
fire  and  brown  slightly  on  one  side,  then  reverse  them  and  brown  them  on  the  other.  Drain  and 
trim  each  drumstick  with  a  small  paper  frill  (No.  10);  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish  and  fill 
the  inside  with  an  olive  garnishing  (No.  695),  made  with  either  verdal  or  Lucques  olives,  and  serve 
with  a  sauce-boat  of  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 

(1876).  CHICKENS'  LEGS  IN  PAPERS  (Ouisses  de  Poulets  en  Papillotes). 
Take  out  the  bones  from  some  chicken  legs,  leaving  on  half  the  drumstick,  season,  lay  them  in  a 
sautoir  containing  bardes  of  fat  pork  and  moistened  with  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  41 9); 
when  they  are  well  cooked  set  them  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight;  pare  all  around,  also  the 
ends.  Cut  some  sheets  of  strong  paper  into  heart-shapes,  oil  them  over  and  lay  a  very  thin  slice  of 
fat  fresh  pork  on  top  of  one  of  the  halves,  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  reduced  duxelle  (No.  385)  and  a 
chicken  leg  above;  cover  with  more  of  the  duxelle  and  a  very  thin  slice  of  cooked  ham;  enclose 
them  in  the  papers,  plaiting  it  all  around,  lay  these  on  a  silver  dish,  place  them  in  a  slack  oven 
and  when  the  papers  have  acquired  a  fine  color  and  are  considerably  swollen,  serve  them  im- 
mediately. 

(1877).  CHICKENS'  LEGS,  PUREE  OP  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES-FRIED  (Cuisses  de  Poulets  Frites 

k  la  Puree  de  Topinambours). 

Remove  the  first  joint  bones,  season  and  fry  the  legs  in  butter  with  finely  shredded  carrots, 
onions  and  leeks,  adding  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white 
wine  and  let  simmer  slowly  until  thoroughly  done,  then  turn  them  on  a  deep  dish,  covering  them 
entirely  with  their  stock  and  leave  them  to  cool  off  in  this;  dip  each  piece  in  beaten  eggs,  then 
roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color.  Dress  them  in  a  circle  over  a  puree  of  Jerusalem 
artichokes  (No.  704)  serving  with  a  separate  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(1878).  PILAU  OF  CHICKENS  (Pilau  de  Poulets). 

Cut  up  in  four  pieces  each,  two  small  chickens  weighing  no  more  than  a  pound  and  threer 
quarters  apiece,  obtaining  two  legs,  two  breasts,  fry  them  for  a  few  moments  in  butter,  then 
moisten  to  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  aromatics, 
and  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  spices;  cook  the  whole  slowly,  being  most  particular  to  re- 
move the  tenderest  pieces  as  rapidly  as  they  are  done  and  transfer  them  into  another  saucepan; 
strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat,  and  pour  the  liquid  over  the  meats  with  four  gills  of  boiling 
stock  added,  and  then  throw  in  half  a  pint  of  Carolina  rice  for  every  quart  of  broth,  and  a  little 
powdered  saffron;  cook  the  rice  for  ten  minutes  on  a  good  fire  then  withdraw  it  to  the  corner  of 
the  stove  to  continue  cooking  for  ten  minutes  longer;  the  rice  should  now  be  dry  and  tender; 
finish  by  taking  it  off  the  fire,  and  incorporating  into  it  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  divided 
in  small  pats.  Dress  the  stew  in  a  deep  dish  or  else  a  vegetable  dish. 

(1879).  CHICKENS  A  LA  CHAMPIONNE— ROASTED  (Poulets  Rotis  a  la  Championne). 
Select  two  very  fleshy  chickens  of  two  pounds  each;  singe,  draw  and  clean  them,  picking  out  all 
the  pin  feathers;  truss  them  as  for  an  entree,  explained  in  the  Elementary  Methods  (No.  178);  cover 
the  breasts  with  dry  mirepoix  (No.  419)  and  wrap  up  in  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork;  roast  them  on  a 
spit  before  a  slow  but  well-regulated  fire,  basting  over  frequently.  Cut  up  quite  fine  one  pound  of 
cooked  and  peeled  mushrooms;  combine  them  with  reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  and  finish 
with  a  little  paprika  and  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  with  this  preparation  fill  some  hollow,  round 
or  semi-circular  crusts  (No.  52),  smooth  the  surfaces  and  bestrew  the  tops  with  parmesan,  then 
glaze  them  in  a  brisk  oven  or  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123).  As  soon  as  the  chickens  are  taken 
from  the  spit,  unwrap  and  cut  them  up  into  five  pieces  each,  suppressing  the  drumsticks;  range 
them  inside  a  cooked  paste  border  (No.  10)  fastened  on  at  some  distance  from  the  edge  of  the 
dish  as  shown  in  Fig.  3;  around  this  border  lay  the  garnished  crusts  and  cover  the  chickens  lightly 
with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  sending  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  to  the  table  to  be  handed 
round  the  same  time  as  the  chicken. 

(1880).  CHICKENS  A  L'HOTELIERE— ROASTED  (Poulets  Rotis  k  1'Hoteliere). 
Peel  twenty  medium  fresh  mushroom  heads,  empty  out  the  insides  and  stuff  them  as  explained 
in  No.  650.     Koast  two  tender  chickens  on  the  spit  before  a  good   fire,  basting  them  over  with 
butter.     Chop  up  the  mushroom  ends  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  minced 


598  THE    EPICURE 

shallots,  two  gills  of  white  wine  and  two  gills  of  gravy  (No.  404);  cover  the  pan  and  cook  over  a 
slow  fire  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of 
a  half-glaze,  adding  four  tablespoorifuls  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  two  of  Madeira  wine;  boil  up 
the  sauce  for  two  minutes  and  remove  it  on  one  side  to  finish  with  butter.  Salt  and  untruss  the 
chickens,  cut  each  one  into  five  pieces  and  dress  them  pyramidically  on  a  dish;  surround  with  the 
stuffed  mushrooms  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  chickens. 

(1881).  CHICKEN  IS  THE  SAUCEPAN-BOASTED  (Poulet  Eoti  a  la  Casserole). 
Brown  a  fine,  small,  whole  chicken  trussed  for  roasting  (No.  179)  in  any  kind  of  earthen  sauce- 
pan with  a  little  butter.  After  the  chicken  has  attained  a  light  golden  color,  moisten  it  with  a  spoonful 
of  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine;  cover  over  and  let  the  liquid  fall  to  a  half- 
glaze.  When  ready  to  serve  dish  up  the  chicken  after  untrussing  it.  A  few  small  whole  onions 
may  be  added  as  a  garnishing  after  blanching  them  in  boiling  water  and  then  frying  them. 
Cover  the  whole  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(1882).  CHICKENS  WITH  OYSTEE  SAUCE  (Poulets  a  la  Sauce  aux  Huitres). 
Blanch  four  dozen  medium-sized  oysters  in  their  own  liquor.  Bard  two  small  chickens  weigh- 
ing a  pound  and  a  half  each,  after  having  them  singed  and  trussed;  run  them  one  at  the  time  on 
a  slender  spit,  fasten  well  by  tying  the  legs  with  twine  and  roast  in  front  of  a  good  fire  basting 
over  with  melted  butter;  untruss,  untie  and  cut  each  one  either  in  four  or  five  parts,  pare  the 
pieces,  dress  them  pyramid  form  on  a  dish  and  cover  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with 
the  oyster  liquor  and  then  with  fresh  cream,  buttering  the  sauce  well  when  off  of  the  fire,  add 
to  it  the  oysters,  warm  them,  and  pour  the  whole  over  the  chickens  besprinkling  the  top  with 
chopped  parsley. 

(1883).  CHICKENS,  TOMATO  CONDE  SAUOE-STUITED  (Poulets  Parcis  a  la  Sauce  Tomate 

Cond6). 

Roast  some  chickens,  when  cooked  and  cold,  remove  the  breast  meat,  carefully  leaving 
the  other  part  of  the  chicken  intact,  cut  these  breasts  into  dice,  also  half  as  much  mush- 
rooms as  there  is  chicken  and  half  as  many  truffles  as  mushrooms,  all  cut  in  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.  Put  this  salpicon  into  a  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409) ,  well  reduced 
with  the  mushroom  broth,  then  use  it  to  replace  the  breasts  in  the  chickens,  rounding  it  well  on  the 
top;  cover  the  whole  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  little 
grated  parmesan  cheese,  pour  on  some  clarified  butter  and  set  the  chickens  in  a  slack  oven  to 
brown  slightly.  Dress  them  on  a  garnishing  of  noodles  sauted  in  butter  (No.  2972),  and  well 
browned,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  clear  tomato  conde  sauce  (No.  550). 

(1884).  CHICKENS  A  LA  BOUEGUIGNONNE-SAUTED  (Poulets  Saut6s  a  la  Bourguignonne). 

Clean  and  singe  two  small  chickens,  then  cut  them  up  into  five  parts;  range  these  in  a  sautoir 
with  melted  butter  and  oil,  some  shallots  and  mushroom  peelings;  season  and  fry  to  a  good  color  on 
both  sides;  finish  to  cook  in  a  slow  oven  being  careful  to  withdraw  the  fillets  and  breasts  as  quickly 
as  they  are  done,  take  out  all  the  pieces  from  the  sautoir,  unglaze  its  bottom  with  a  gill  of  Madeira 
and  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  strain  and  reduce  by  incorporating  into  it  slowly  two  gills 
of  Burgundy  wine,  previously  boiled  in  a  red  copper  untinned  pan  with  aromatics  and  mushroom 
peelings.  When  the  sauce  becomes  succulent,  pour  it  over  the  dressed  chickens  and  surround  them 
with  a  circle  of  round,  flat  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter  and  having  one  side  covered  with  a 
layer  of  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  glazed  over  with  a  brush  and  kept  warm  at  the  oven  door. 

(1885).  CHICKENS  A  LA  D'ANTIN-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  d'Antin). 
Prepare  two  small  chickens  of  two  pounds  each,  by  cutting  each  one  into  five  parts  and  toss- 
ing them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter  over  a  moderate  fire;  cook  when  needed  four  artichoke 
bottoms,  drain  and  mince,  then  put  them  in  with  the  chicken,  also  two  chopped,  blanched  shallots, 
two  ounces  of  finely  shredded  cooked  ham  and  some  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms.  Pour  off  the 
fat  and  replace  it  by  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  adding  chervil,  chives  and 
a  little  finely  cut  up  tarragon  leaves,  white  wine  and  Madeira,  reduce  to  a  proper  degree,  then  dress 
the  chickens  and  cover  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  trim  the  dpumsticks  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and 
serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 


POULTRY.  599 

(1886).  CHICKENS  A  LA  DIVA-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Diva). 

Choose  good,  medium-sized  chickens  of  about  two  pounds  each;  draw,  singe,  and  suppress  well 
all  the  adhering  feathers;  detach  the  legs  and  wings  leaving  on  the  pinions  and  sufficient  meat  on 
thb  breast  bones  so  that  they  are  of  the  same  size  as  the  other  four  pieces.  Put  some  butter  to 
melt  in  a  sautoir,  and  when  a  light  brown,  lay  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  powdered  sweet  peppers:  toss  without  browning,  and  moisten  with  about  a  gill  of  veal  blond  (No. 
423)  to  detach  the  glaze,  and  then  finish  cooking  the  chickens,  moistening  as  quickly  as  the  stock 
reduces,  and  when  sufficiently  done,  dress.  Add  to  the  sauce  some  bechamel  (No.  409)  and  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549),  a  little  tarragon  vinegar,  and  some  chopped,  blanched  shallot;  just  when  ready  to 
serve,  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  and  butter;  strain  through  a  tammy,  and  pour  it  over  the  chickens, 
bestrewing  the  top  with  very  green  chopped  parsley;  garnish  around  with  small  flat  chicken  cro- 
quettes (No.  877),  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter  by  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  between 
each  of  these  lay  a  bordelaise  crawfish  (No.  1008),  placing  a  channeled  mushroom  (No.  118)  on  top 
of  every  croquette. 

(1887).  CHICKEN  A  LA  DODDS-SAUTED  (Poulet  Saute  a  la  Dodds). 

Cut  up  the  chicken  as  explained  for  sauteing  chicken  (No.  1906),  and  put  the  pieces  in  a  sau- 
toir with  four  ounces  of  butter,  cook  without  browning,  and  add  four  ounces  of  small  squares  of 
onions;  place  it  on  the  fire  for  a  few  seconds  to  cook  the  onions  without  letting  attain  color;  then  add 
two  teaspoonf  uls  of  curry,  and  two  tablespoonf  uls  of  flour;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  stock  (No.  194a),  and  let  boil  and  simmer  quite  slowly;  when  done,  drain, 
pare  well  the  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan.  Strain  the  sauce  and  reduce  it  with  some 
good  cream;  pour  this  over  the  chicken.  At  the  first  boil  dress  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid  and 
cover  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  reserving  the  remainder  for  the  sauce-boat.  Boil  some  rice  in  water 
for  ten  minutes,  drain  and  press  it  into  a  buttered  mold  furnished  with  a  cover;  place  it  in  a  slack 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  unmold  it  on  a  dish,  and  send  it  to  the 
table  with  the  chicken. 

(1888).  CHICKENS  A  LA  DUMAS-SAUTED  (Poulets  Saute*  a  la  Dumas), 
Cut  three  chickens  into  five  pieces  each,  having  two  legs,  two  wings  and  one  breastbone  piece; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  arid  toss  them  in  butter  with  three  small  chopped  shallots;  remove  the 
wings  and  breasts  as  rapidly  as  they  are  cooked  and  finish  the  legs,  which  take  longer.  Pare  all 
the  pieces  and  return  them  to  a  sautoir  on  the  fire  with  a  clear  top  part  of  the  butter  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  minced  mushrooms,  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  thin  bechamel  (No.  409), 
roll  them  in  the  sauce  without  allowing  it  to  boil.  Detach  the  glaze  from  the  other  sautoir  with  a 
little  Madeira,  and  add  it  to  the  sauce.  Blanch  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  rice,  drain  and  place 
it  in  a  saucepan  and  moisten  it  to  three  times  its  height,  meaning  if  there  be  two  inches  high  of 
rice,  put  in  six  inches  high  of  unskimmed  broth  (No.l94a);  boil,  cover  the  saucepan  and  finish  in  the 
oven;  it  will  take  about  twenty  minutes.  When  the  rice  is  sufficiently  done,  add  to  it  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  very  red  beef  tongue  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  also 
three  ounces  of  butter  and  the  same  quantity  of  grated  parmesan  cheese,  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sweet  peppers  and  a  bit  of  cayenne  pepper.  Fill  a  plain  buttered  border  mold  (Fig.  139) 
with  this  prepared  rice,  keep  it  warm  and  when  ready  to  serve  invert  it  on  a  dish;  dress  the 
chickens  pyramid-form  in  the  center  and  cover  the  whole  with  the  sauce  thickened  with  egg-yolks, 
cream  and  butter,  finishing  with  a  pinch  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Garnish  around  with 
breaded  and  fried  spinal  marrow  of  veal,  and  send  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce  to  the  table  with 
the  chicken. 

(1889).  CHICKENS  A  LA  FINNOISE— SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Finnoise). 
Prepare  and  cook  three  chickens  the  same  as  for  the  chicken  hunter's  style  (No.  1903);  when 
three-quarters  done,  put  in  three  ounces  of  chopped  and  blanched  onion,  and  three  ounces  of  small 
squares  of  ham,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a)  in  order  to  detach  the  glaze  and  finish 
cooking  the  chickens;  in  case  this  moisture  should  be  found  insufficient,  add  a  little  more  stock  to 
it;  season  with  sweet  Spanish  peppers,  salt  and  paprika.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  pour  in  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  veloute  (No.  415)  and  half  a  pint  of  cream;  reduce  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  thoroughly 
cooked,  thicken  with  egg-yolks,  cream,  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Dress  the  chickens  inside  a 
border  of  rice  boiled  in  stock  (No.  194a)  and  finished  with  a  little  fine  butter;  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  tammy,  pour  it  over  the  chickens  and  trim  the  wings  and  legs  with  paper  frills  (No. 
10),  or  serve  the  chickens  simply  with  a  Finnoise  sauce  (No.  465). 


600  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1890),  CHICKENS  1  LA  FLORENTINE— SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Plorentine), 
Cut  up  three  one  and  a  half  pound  chickens  in  four  pieces  each,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
ground  cloves  and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sweet  Spanish  peppers;  saute  them  in  half  oil  and  half 
butter,  and  add  six  ounces  of  raw,  unsmoked  ham  cut  in  quarter  inch  dice;  turn  over  to  color 
evenly  and  keep  sauteing  on  the  fire,  or  else  set  the  pan  in  a  slow  oven  and  when  done  drain  off  the 
pieces;  add  to  these  two  gills  of  Malaga  wine,  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  meat-glaze  (No.  402),  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  also  three 
dozen  small  onions  that  have  been  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  broth  (No.  194a),  six  dozen  carrot 
balls  each  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  blanched  for  ten  minutes  then  finished  with  white 
broth  and  a  little  sugar;  three  dozen  turned  and  channeled  mushroom  heads  (No.  118)  cooked  in 
a  little  water,  butter,  salt,  lemon  juice  and  six  ounces  of  minced  truffles.  Boil  up  the  whole, 
dress  the  chicken  with  the  garnishing  around;  reduce  the  sauce  to  perfection,  pouring  half  of  it 
over  the  chicken,  and  trim  the  legs  and  wings  with  frills  (No.  10);  strain  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  and  serve  it  separately. 

(1891).  CHICKENS  A  LA  MADELEINE-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Madeleine). 
Cut  in  quarters  two  small  one  and  three-quarter  pound  chickens  after  cleaning  them  well; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  paprika,  and  sweet  Spanish  peppers;  put  them  into  a  liberally  buttered 
sautoir,  and  when  they  commence  to  brown  add  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  up  in  quarter  inch 
squares,  having  it  previously  blanched,  four  ounces  of  carrots  and  the  same  quantity  of  turnips  cut 
in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  and  blanched  separately,  four  ounces  of  onions  in  one-eighth  inch 
squares  also  blanched,  and  a  small  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123).  Moisten  with  a  little 
stock  (No.  194a)  and  velout6  (No.  415),  cover  the  sautoir  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven  until 
cooked;  when  ready  to  serve  thicken  the  sauce  with  egg-yolks,  cream,  butter  and  lemon  juice;  pour 
this  over  the  chickens  trim  the  handle  bones  and  serve. 

(1892),  CHICKENS  A  LA  MARCEL-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Marcel). 
Prepare  a  sufficient  number  of  chickens  the  same  as  for  sauteing  (No.  1906);  season  with  salt 
and  pepper;  pour  some  oil  into  a  sautoir  and  when  very  hot  add  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  saut6 
them  colorless;  when  nearly  done  put  in  one  small  chopped  up  shallot  for  every  chicken,  also  a 
clove  of  garlic.  Scoop  out  some  potatoes  olive-shaped,  with  a  large  oval  vegetable  spoon;  cook 
them  slowly  in  butter  as  well  as  some  small  artichoke  bottoms  after  having  them  blanched,  then 
finish  cooking  in  butter;  dress  the  chickens,  garnish  the  artichoke  bottoms  with  a  consistent,  mellow 
chestnut  puree  (No.  712)  pushed  through  a  pocket,  and  lay  on  top  of  this  medium-sized  channeled 
and  glazed  mushroom  heads  (No.  118);  range  these  around  the  chicken  and  the  potato  olives  betweeu 
every  one;  trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10)  and  serve  with  a  separate  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451;, 

(1893).  CHICKENS  A  LA  MAEENGO-SAUTED  (Poulets  Saute*  a  la  Marengo). 
Take  two  chickens  and  prepare  them  exactly  as  for  the  sauted  chickens  (No.  1906);  heat  somfe, 
oil  in  a  sautoir,  range  in  the  pieces  one  beside  the  other,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  tossing  them 
until  they  are  of  a  fine  color,  then  add  a  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped  garlic  and  some  mignonette. 
Just  when  prepared  to  serve  drain  off  three  quarters  of  the  fat  and  replace  it  by  half  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  detaching  the  glaze  from  the  pan,  then  add  a  pound  of  mushroom  buttons,  and  four 
ounces  of  thickly  sliced  truffles,  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  a  little  meat-glaze  (No.  402),  a  little 
fine  tomato  pur4e  (No.  730)  and  lemon-juice.  Dress  the  chickens  in  a  pyramid  form,  cover  over 
with  the  garnishing  and  trim  the  drumsticks  and  pinions  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  decorate  the 
edges  of  the  dish  with  egg-yolks  fried  in  a  small  frying  pan  with  a  little  oil,  some  half-heart  small 
bread  croutons  and  middling-sized  trussed  crawfish. 

(1894),  CHICKENS  A  LA  MARYLAND-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Maryland). 
For  this  dish  choose  small  one  pound  chickens,  split  them  open  through  the  back,  pare  nicely 
(Fig.  353)  and  season,  rub  over  with  flour,  then  immerse  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs.  Heat 
some  clarified  butter  in  a  sautoir.  fry  the  chickens  in  it  very  slowly  to  cook  and  attain  a  fine  color, 
then  finish  cooking  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Dress  the  chickens  on  a  be'chamel 
sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  cream,  and  garnish  the  top  with  small  corn  fritters  (No.  1349)  and 
slices  of  broiled  bacon,  decorate  the  legs  with  paper  frills  (No.  10). 


POULTRY.  601 

(1895).  CHICKENS  A  LA  MONTESQUIEU-SAUTED  (Poulets  SautSs  a  la  Montesquieu). 

By  observing  the  drawing  for  this  entree  the  elegance  of  this  new  style  of  dressing  can  easily 
be  perceived.  On  an  entree  dish  one  inch  from  the  edge  fasten  a  standing  openwork  border  made  of 
cooked  paste  (Fig.  3),  spreading  it  out  slightly;  brush  this  over  with  egg-yolks  and  dry  it  in  the  air. 
In  the  center  of  this  border,  fasten  a  wooden  bottom  to  be  covered  with  the  same  paste  rolled  out 
very  thin.  Singe  three  clean  chickens,  detach  the  legs,  leaving  on  as  much  skin  as  possible,  then 
lift  off  the  large  fillets  with  the  pinions  leaving  the  minion  fillets  adhere  to  the  breasts,  remove  the 
skin  from  four  of  the  large  fillets,  pare  and  lard  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  range  them 
in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork,  salt  and  pour  butter  over.  Detach  the  minion  fillets  from  the 
breasts,  trim  four  of  them,  cut  five  gashes  on  their  top,  into  these  place  rounds  of  truffles, 


FIG.  372. 

laying  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir.  Bone  the  legs,  pare  the  meats  evenly,  salt  and  stuff  them 
with  a  rather  firm  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  into  which  mix  some  truffled  Duxelle  (No.  385); 
sew  them  up  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir,  covering  over  with  fat  pork  and  basting  with  some 
stock  (No.  194a);  cook  very  slowly,  then  drain  and  let  to  get  cold  under  the  pressure  of  a 
light  weight.  With  the  remaining  large  fillets  and  the  minion  fillets  prepare  a  little  cream  force- 
meat (No.  75)  and  with  it  fill  a  small,  plain  pyramidical  mold  flat  on  top;  poach  this  in  a  bain- 
marie  for  ten  minutes;  cut  the  stuffed  legs  in  two  and  return  them  to  the  sautoir  with  their  stock 
reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  heat  up  slowly  while  basting  at  the  oven  door;  glaze  the  larded  fillets  in  a 
hot  oven  and  poach  the  streaked  minion  fillets.-  At  the  last  moment  unmold  the  crouton  of  force- 
meat on  the  paste-covered  dish;  dress  the  legs  around,  one  overlapping  the  other,  pour  over  a 
little  good  reduced  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415),  and  then  range  the  four  large  fillets  intercalating  them 
with  the  streaked  fillets;  on  top  of  the  pyramid  insert  a  small  skewer  garnished  with  truffles 
(Fig.  11).  Surround  the  border  with  a  chain  of  round,  peeled  truffles  cooked  just  when  needed 
with  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira  and  send  with  the  entree  a  sauce  boatful  of  veloute  sauce  reduced 
with  the  truffle  broth. 

(1896).  CHICKENS  A  LA  NANTAISE-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  &  la  Nantaise). 

Prepare  three  chickens  the  same  as  for  hunter's  style  (No.  1903,)  saute"  them  in  butter  without 
browning  and  remove  each  piece  as  fast  as  cooked;  drain  off  the  grease,  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little 
mushroom  broth  and  Madeira  wine,  add  some  bechamel  and  cream  (No.  411)  and  let  simmer  slowly, 
pouring  in  a  little  more  cream  if  necessary;  strain  the  sauce  and  keep  it  boiling  hot.  Make  a  croquette 
preparation  with  artichoke  bottoms  and  cooked  lean  ham,  the  former  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch 
squares  and  the  latter  in  one-eighth  pieces;  mingle  with  some  thick  cold  bechamel  (No.  409)  and 
form  it  into  pear-shaped  croquettes,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  clean, 
white,  and  very  hot  frying  fat.  Fry  some  shrimps  in  butter,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  fine  herbs 
and  lemon  juice.  Dress  the  chickens,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  pour  part  of  it  over 
the  chickens;  dress  the  shrimps  in  clusters  and  artichoke  bottom  croquettes  between  each;  serve 
the  rest  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1897).  CHICKENS  A  LA  PAKMENTIER— SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Parmentier). 

Draw  and  singe  three  two  pounds  chickens,  clean  them  well,  suppressing  all  the  pin  feathers, 
cut  them  up  in  to  five  pieces,  namely:  two  legs,  two  wings  and  a  breastbone  piece;  saute  in  butter 
and  when  three-quarters  done  add  potatoes  cut  cylindrical  shape  an  inch  in  diameter  then  sliced 


602  THE    EPICUREAN. 

three-eights  of  an  inch  thick,  or  else  cut  in  five-eighths  squares;  cook  them  partially  in  a  frying 
pan  with  clarified  butter.  Finish  cooking  the  chicken  and  potatoes  together  in  the  oven,  being 
careful  to  remove  the  breasts  as  soon  as  they  are  done.  Dress  the  chickens  on  a  dish  with  the 
potatoes  around,  detach  the  glaze  from  the  sautoir  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  Madeira  an^ 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  reduce  the  liquid  for  two  minutes,  pass  through  a  tammy  and  pour  it 
over  the  chickens. 

(1898).  CHICKENS  A  LA  POKTUGAISE-SAUTED  (Poulets  Saut6s  k  la  Portugaise). 

Have  three  chickens  prepared  the  same  as  for  hunter's  style  (No.  1903),  saute  them  in  half  oil 
and  half  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  they  are  three-quarters  done  add  three 
pounds  of  peeled  tomatoes,  halved  through  the  center  and  the  seeds  and  juice  pressed  out,  a  little 
finely  cut  up  chives  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402);  boil  and  simmer  until  thor- 
oughly cooked.  Prepare  eighteen  small  very  sound  halved  tomatoes;  press  lightly  to  extract  the  juice 
and  fill  them  with  a  dressing  prepared  as  follows:  Put  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  into  a  bowl 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  the  chopped  livers 
of  three  chickens,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  mix  the  whole  well  together  and  fill  each  half  tomato 
with  some  of  this;  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  and  lay  a  small  piece  of 
butter  on  top  of  every  one,  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  when  nicely  browned  take  out  and  dress  in 
a  circle  on  a  dish  with  the  chickens  in  the  center,  dredge  over  with  chopped  parsley  and  decorate 
the  leg  and  wing  bones  with  paper  frills  (No.  10). 


(1899).  CHICKENS  A  LA  SANFOKD-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  k  la  Sanford). 

Draw  and  singe  small  one  pound  and  a  quarter  to  one  pound  and  a  half  chickens,  divide  them 
into  four  pieces,  suppressing  the  legs  above  the  joint,  also  the  pinion  of  the  wings;  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  rub  over  with  flour;  they  may  now  be  if  so  desired  dipped  in  eggs  and  in  bread- 
crumbs; saute  them  slowly  in  clarified  butter,  and  when  well  done  drain  and  dress;  pour  a  little 
good  gravy  (No.  404)  in  the  dish  and  garnish  around  with  hollow  tartlets  filled  up  withChantilly 
sauce  a  la  Sanford  (No.  588). 


(1900).  CHICKENS  A  LA  STANLEY-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Stanley). 

Select  three  chickens  each  one  weighing  two  pounds  and  a  half;  draw,  singe,  and  detach  the 
legs  from  the  bodies,  cut  the  carcasses  on  a  level  with  the  breasts  and  plunge  these  for  a  few  moments 
in  hot  water  to  stiffen  them,  then  dip  them  at  once  in  cold  water  to  refresh,  lard  them  with  lardons 
(No.  3,  Fig.  52).  With  the  meat  taken  from  the  legs  and  all  the  parings  prepare  a  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  finishing  it  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel 
(No.  409).  Butter  eighteen  hollow  tartlet  molds  with  rounded  bottoms,  besprinkle  the  insides  with 
finely  chopped  raw  truffles,  and  fill  them  up  with  the  prepared  forcemeat;  range  these  in  a  sautoir 
having  boiling  water  around  and  reaching  up  to  half  their  height,  then  poach  the  forcemeat  slowly. 
Besides  this,  poach  a  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat  on  an  entree  dish  and  keep  it  warm.  Cut  the 
breasts  of  the  chickens  into  three  pieces,  two  fillets  and  the  upper  part  of  the  breast;  suppress 
the  pinions.  Mince  ten  ounces  of  white  onions,  and  fry  them  slowly  with  butter  in  a  sautoir, 
and  when  a  good  color,  add  the  chickens;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  three 
gills  of  chicken  broth  prepared  with  the  carcasses  and  bones  of  these  chickens;  cover  the  sautoir 
and  allow  the  liquid  to  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  begin  the  operation  again  until  the  fillets  and  breasts 
are  thoroughly  done;  remove  and  transfer  to  a  flat  saucepan;  increase  the  chicken  stock  with  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  good  veloute  (No.  415),  reduce  this  sauce  without  ceasing  to  stir,  incorporating 
more  of  the  broth  into  it,  and  lastly  a  gill  of  good  raw  cream;  the  sauce  should  now  be 
succulent  and  of  a  medium  consistency;  thicken  it  with  a  liaison  of  two  egg-yolks,  and  cook 
this  without  boiling,  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  into  another  saucepan  to  work  it  vigorously 
while  adding  butter;  finish  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  At  the 
last  moment  dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  on  the  bed  of  forcemeat  laying  on  the  dish;  fill  the  center 
of  this  with  cut  up  cooked  mushrooms,  and  place  the  breast  pieces  on  top;  cover  over  with  a  part  of 
the  sauce,  pouring  the  remainder  into  a  sauce-boat  to  be  served  separately.  Unmold  the  small  force- 
meat molds,  dress  them  around  the  fillets  and  glaze  over  with  a  brush,  then  serve. 


POULTRY.  603 

(1901).  CHICKENS  A  LA  TUNISIAN-SAUTED  (Pouiets  Sautes  a  la  Tunisienne). 
Divide  two  two-pound  chickens  into  five  pieces  each,  range  the  pieces  in  a  sautoir  with  half 
melted  butter  and  half  oil,  saute  on  a  moderate  fire  and  then  in  the  oven.  When  they  are  three- 
quarters  cooked,  season  and  finish,  being  careful  to  remove  the  fillets  and  other  tender  pieces  as 
quickly  as  they  get  done;  drain  them  all  off,  leaving  only  the  fat  in  the  sautoir,  then  pare  the 
chickens  piece  by  piece  and  range  them  at  once  in  a  low  saucepan  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404) 
and  meat  glaze  (No. 402);  keep  this  in  a  warm  place;  fry  two  ounces  of  finely  chopped  onions  in  butter 
left  from  the  chickens  with  the  gizzards  cooked  and  cut  in  small  squares,  the  chopped  up  livers 
and  four  ounces  of  cold  tenderloin  of  beef  or  lamb  cut  also  into  one-eighth  inch  squares,  add  salt, 
pepper  and  bread-crumbs  and  cool  this  off  before  breaking  in  a  few  raw  egg-yolks.  Form  this  pre- 
paration into  five-eighths  inch  diameter  balls  and  put  them  in  with  the  chicken,  also  a  quart  of 
veloute  (No.  415)  and  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine,  let  simmer  and  reduce  the  sauce,  skimming  off  the 
fat.  Dress  the  chickens  in  a  pyramid  form  with  the  quenelles  around,  and  cover  over  with  a  part 
of  the  sauce  passed  through  a  tammy,  serving  the  remainder  separately.  Trim  the  pinion  bones 
and  drumsticks  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  lay  trussed  crawfish  all  around. 

(1902).  CHICKENS  POINT  DU  JOUE— SAUTED  (Pouiets  Sauted  au  Point  du  Jour). 
Take  two  chickens  and  prepare  them  exactly  as  for  bourguignonne  (No.  1884),  range  them  in 
a  sautoir  with  melted  butter.  Fry  colorless  in  butter,  four  ounces  of  chopped  onions,  dredge  over 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  make  a  small  light  roux;  moisten  this  with  red  wine  and  stock  (No. 
194a)  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf  and  a  few  mushroom  parings,  despu- 
mate  and  reduce  well  the  sauce.  Saute  the  chickens  in  the  butter  and  when  well  browned  add  two 
dozen  small  glazed  onions,  as  many  cooked  mushroom  heads  and  as  many  olives  as  mushrooms; 
strain  the  above  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  chickens  and  at  the  first  boil,  take  out  the  chickens  and 
dress.  Reduce  the  sauce,  add  to  it  a  handful  of  small  nonpareil  capers  and  pour  it  over  the  chickens, 
garnish  around  with  tiny  round  crusts  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  toasted  and  covered  on  one 
side  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569). 

(1903).  CHICKENS,  HUNTEE'S  STYLE— SAUTED  (Pouiets  Saute~s  au  Chasseur), 
Pick  out  three  good  chickens  of  about  two  and  a  half  pounds  each,  draw,  singe,  then  clean 
well  and  extract  all  the  small  pin  feathers,  cut  them  each  up  into  seven  pieces,  the  two  wings,  two 
legs,  two  pieces  of  the  back  and  one  of  the  breast  bone;  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  melt  six 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  sautoir  until  it  becomes  a  fine  golden  color,  then  lay  in  the  pieces  of  chicken 
and  toss  them  well;  when  they  acquire  a  fine  light  brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  over  to  brown 
likewise  on  the  other,  cover  the  sautoir  and  finish  cooking  on  a  very  slow  fire  or  in  the  oven.  When 
the  meats  are  well  done,  drain  off  the  butter  and  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a).  Fry 
colorless  in  butter  a  large  pinch  of  chopped  shallot,  moisten  with  half  a  bottleful  of  red  or  white 
Burgundy  wine,  reduce  to  half,  then  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  simmer  the  whole 
for  a  few  moments,  season  well,  and  when  the  sauce  is  properly  reduced,  return  the  chickens  to  it, 
put  it  back  on  the  fire  to  remove  at  the  first  boil  and  add  three  ounces  of  cooked,  lean  hatn  cut 
up  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  slice  three  onions  across,  having  them  two  inches  in  diameter 
by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  remove  the  largest  rings  and  roll  them  in  flour,  then 
fry  a  few  at  the  time  in  plenty  of  fat;  dress  the  chickens  and  use  these  rings  to  garnish  the  top, 
decorate  the  stumps  of  the  legs  and  the  pinions  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  serve  immediately. 

(1904).  CHICKENS,  PAEISIAN  STYLE— SAUTED  (Pouiets  Sautes  k  la  Parisienne). 
Peel  a  few  medium-sized  truffles,  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt  and  Madeira 
wine;  cook  them  slightly;  cook  also  as  many  mushrooms  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon.  Take  two  singed,  drawn  chickens,  cut  off  the  pinions  and  drumsticks,  detach 
the  thighs,  and  divide  the  breasts  into  three  pieces,  the  two  fillets  and  the  upper  breast 
part;  cut  the  carcasses  in  two;  crack  the  thigh  bones  in  order  to  remove  them,  then 
place  the  thighs  in  a  buttered  flat  saucepan;  add  the  pinions,  necks,  and  carcasses,  season  and  cook 
on  a  moderate  fire  stirring  them  about  at  times;  when  partly  done,  add  the  fillets  and  upper  breast 
parts,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  aromatic  herbs,  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  After  all  the  meats 
are  well  sized  lift  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  transfer  to  another  saucepan,  adding  the  truffles. 
Drain  off  the  fat  from  the  contents  of  the  first  saucepan,  put  in  the  truffle  parings,  and  moisten 
with  half  a  glassful  of  Madeira;  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  mix  in  double  as  much  brown  sauce 


(>04  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(No.  414)  and  the  truffle  stock;  let  cook  on  a  brisk  fire  for  ten  minutes;  skim  off  the  fat,  and  strain 
this  sauce  over  the  chickens;  heat  without  allowing  the  liquid  to  boil.  Fasten  a  small  fried  bread 
pyramid  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  around  it  dress  first  the  carcasses  and  pinions,  then  the  thighs  and 
breasts,  placing  the  upper  breast  pieces  on  top;  surround  the  chickens  with  the  truffles  and 
mushrooms,  place  a  few  cocks'-combs  here  and  there,  and  free  the  sauce  once  more  of  its  fat;  pour 
it  over  the  chicken  and  serve. 

(1905).  CHICKENS,  VIENNA  STYLE-SAUTED  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Viennoise). 
Select  chickens  that  weigh  from  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  quarter;  bleed  them  just  when 
ready  to  use,  and  pluck  them  quickly,  then  cut  them  up  into  four  pieces,  performing  all 
this  operation  most  speedily  so  that  the  chickens  have  no  time  to  become  cold;  season  over  with  a 
mixture  of  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  powdered  bay  leaf,  and  lemon  juice,  then  dip  in  flour,  afterward  in 
beaten  eggs,  and  bread-crumb  them  only  once.  Cook  in  a  sauteing  pan  with  clarified  butter  over  a 
very  hot  fire,  drain,  sponge,  and  season;  dress  them  dry  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  the  top. 

(1906).  SAUTE'D  CHICKENS  WITH  HALF-GLAZE  (Poulets  Saute~s  Demi-Glace). 

Sauted  chickens  are  cooked  various  ways,  either  with  a  plain  sauce  or  garnishing. 

How  to  Saute. — Cut  up  two  chickens  each  of  two  pound  weight,  having  them  well  cleaned 
and  singed,  into  seven  pieces,  viz:  two  legs,  the  breastbone,  whole  breasts,  and  the  backbone, 
split  in  two,  suppressing  the  pinions  and  giblets.  Break  the  second  joint  bone  of  the  legs  and 
remove  it.  Heat  some  butter  and  oil  in  a  sautoir,  range  the  pieces  of  chicken  in  this, 


FIG.  373.  FIG.  374.  FIG.  375. 

and  cook  over  a  good  but  not  too  fierce  fire,  turning  them  over  when  of  a  nice  color 
and  well  browned;  remove  the  saucepan  from  off  the  fire  and  place  it  in  the  oven  to  finish 
cooking  the  chickens,  taking  out  the  pieces  as  fast  as  they  are  done,  and  when  the  legs  are 
sufficiently  cooked,  drain  the  fat  from  the  sautoir  and  return  to  it  the  pieces  previously  removed, 
then  pour  over  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  boil  up  for  a  minute,  turning  the  pieces 
over  so  that  they  are  thoroughly  covered  with  the  sauce  on  all  sides.  Dress  these  pieces  of  chicken 
on  a  dish,  cover  and  keep  hot.  Pour  a  gill  of  Madeira  or  white  wine,  or  else  half  of  each,  into 
the  sautoir,  reduce  to  half,  add  another  half  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  and  some  mushroom  and 
truffle  parings;  boil  up  for  a  minute  while  stirring  incessantly  with  a  spoon,  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  fine  strainer  pour  it  over  the  chickens  and  serve. 

(1907).  CHICKENS  WITH  TINE  HERBS,  TOMATO  GARNISHING— SAUTED  (Poulets  Saute*  aux 

Pines  Herbes,  Garnis  de  Tomates). 

Fry  chopped  parsley  and  mushrooms  and  four  blanched  chopped  shallots  in  butter;  add  two 
young  two-pound  chickens,  both  cut  up  into  five  pieces  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123); 
season  with  salt  and  pepper;  let  all  cook  without  adhering  to  the  pan,  skim  off  the  fat  and  add  a  pint 
of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Put  some  butter 
and  oil  in  a  pan  and  when  hot  range  one  beside  the  other,  some  halved  tomatoes  having  the  seeds 
pressed  out;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  whole  clove  of  garlic;  fry  these  over  a  hot  fire  keeping 
them  whole,  and  when  their  moisture  has  evaporated  suppress  the  garlic  and  besprinkle  with  a 
little  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Dress  the  chickens  in  a  pyramid  form,  surround  with  the 
tomatoes  and  pour  over  the  chicken  gravy  just  as  it  is;  dredge  the  surface  with  chopped  parsley 
and  serve  with  a  separate  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  mixed  with  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(1908).  SPRING  CHICKENS  AS  AN  ENTREE,  ROASTED-SMALL  (Poulets  Reine  R6tis  en  Entree 

de  Broche). 

Singe  three  small  chickens  weighing  three-quarters  of  a  pound  each;  draw,  and  clean  well; 
truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  cover  the  breasts  with  a  dry  matignon  with  Madeira  (No.  406) 
and  tie  on  this  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  to  keep  it  in  place,  tying  the  pork  with  three  rows  of  string; 
run  iron  skewers  lengthwise  of  the  chickens  and  fasten  them  on  the  spit;  three-quarters  of  an  hour 


POULTRY.  605 

before  serving  roast  them  in  front  of  a  bright  firo  basting  over  with  butter  and  the  fat  from  the  drip- 
ping pan.  When  done,  remove,  unwrap  and  untruss.  Invert  on  a  dish  a  decorated  and  poached 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  80)  border;  lay  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  on  this  a  triangular  center  of 
fried  bread  covered  with  the  same  forcemeat,  poach  in  the  oven  and  range  the  chickens  in  a  trian- 
gle on  this  border,  leaning  them  up  against  the  fried  bread  center.  Dress  between  each  one  small 
clusters  of  round  and  peeled  truffles  rolled  in  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  insert  a  garnished  skewer  in 
the  bread  center  and  the  chickens.  Pour  some  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  reduced  with  truffle 
parings  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  after  straining  it  through  a  tammy  and  serve  more  of  it  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(1909).  CHICKEN  A  L'AQUITAINE-BEAISED  (Poulet  Brais6  a  1'Aquitaine). 
Draw  and  singe  a  fine  corn-fed  chicken  weighing  two  and  a  half  to  three  pounds;  break  the 
breastbone  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  good  dressing  composed  of  beef  marrow  and  raw  ham  com- 
bined with  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs,  one  egg-yolk,  salt  and  nutmeg;  sew  up  the  stomach  skin  at 
the  vent  and  truss  with  the  legs  inside;  cover  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  then  lay  it  in  a  narrow 
saucepan  garnished  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  containing  two  cloves,  some  ham  trimmings  and  an 
onion;  moisten  to  half  the  height  of  the  chicken  with  broth  and  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  for  a  few 
moments,  then  set  the  saucepan  on  a  slower  fire  to  have  it  cook  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  basting  it  over  frequently  and  letting  it  acquire  a  fine  color.  Strain  off  the  stock,  remove  its 
fat  and  reduce  it  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  sauce.  Infuse  a 
piece  of  cinnamon  in  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  for  fifteen  minutes,  strain  it  through  a  napkin  and  add 
it  to  the  sauce.  Place  in  a  saucepan  some  round  and  well-pared  slices  of  duck's  liver,  some  cocks'- 
combs  and  kidneys,  truffles  and  mushrooms;  pour  two-thirds  of  the  above  sauce  over  these,  then 
untruss  the  chicken  and  dress  it  with  the  garnishing  distributed  around  and  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  served  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1910).  CHICKENS  A  LA  LEONIA— BOILED  (Poulets  Bouillis  a  la  LSonia). 
Have  very  tender  two-pound  chickens,  prepare  and  truss  them  as  for  an  entree  and  range 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  stock  (No.  194a)  to  cook  slowly;  when  done  cut  each  chicken  into 
five  pieces;  two  legs,  two  wings,  and  one  of  the  breast  bones.  Fry  lightly  in  butter  one  shallot 
or  half  a  medium  onion,  add  four  ounces  of  dried  mushrooms,  softened  in  water  and  chopped  up 
finely,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  moisten  with  two  gills  of  white 
wine  and  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  skim  the  top  properly  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes, 
then  take  out  the  parsley  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
lean  ham  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  let  the  sauce  reduce  until  quite  thick,  add  the  pieces 
of  chicken  and  when  thoroughly  warm,  dress  with  the  sauce,  bestrewing  the  surface  with  chopped 
parsley. 

(1911).  CHICKENS  A  LA  STUYVESANT-POELE  (Poulets  Poffl&  a  la  Stuyvesant). 

Have  two  good  chickens  weighing  three  pounds  each;  truss  them  for  entree  (No.  178)  and 
cook  them  as  explained  under  the  heading  to  poeler  (No.  12);  when  done  properly,  drain,  untruss 
and  cut  them  up  into  five  or  six  pieces,  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  layer  of  forcemeat 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  poached  on  the  same  dish  intended  for  the  tabte,  and  surround 
with  a  circle  of  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118),  new  carrots  cut  pear-shaped  and  blanched,  then 
cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a)  with  a  little  sugar;  throw  some  very  small  cooked  green  peas  over  the 
whole,  also  a  printaniere  sauce  (No.  546)  and  send  to  the  table  with  some  of  the  same  sance  served 
separately. 

(1912).    CHICKENS,  ENGLISH  STYLE-BOILED  (Poulets  Bouillis  a  I'Anglaise). 
Prepare  and  truss  some  young  two-pound  chickens  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  boil  them  in 
stock  (No.  194a)  and  drain  when  done  ;  dress  and  cover  with  a  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415),  adding  to  it  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(1913).  CHICKEN  WITH  NOODLES,  MACAEONI,  EAVIOLES,     OE  MIEMIDONS-BEAISED 

(Poulet  BraisS  Soit  aux  Nouilles,  Macaroni,  Eavioles,  ou  Minnidons). 

Cook  a  chicken  the  same  as  with  rice  (No.  1914),  roll  out  thin,  some  noodle  paste  bands  (No. 
142)  two  inches  wide,  cut  it  into  fine  shreds,  plunge  them  into  boiling,  salted  water  and  let  cook 
for  eight  to  ten  minutes  while  covered;  remove  from  the  fire  to  drain  on  a  sieve.  Return  these 


606  THE    EPICUREAN. 

noodles  when  dry  to  the  saucepan  and  add  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  bechamel  (No.  409), 
fresh  butter,  grated  parmesan,  a  bit  of  nutmeg  and  salt  and  pepper,  then  dress  on  a  hot  dish; 
lay  the  chicken  on  top  either  whole  or  neatly  cut  up,  pour  over  its  liquid  reduced  to  a  half-glaze  and 
thickened  with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549).  This  chicken  can  be  served  exactly  the  same  only 
substituting  macaroni  (No.  2960),  ravioles  (No.  2976),  or  mirmidons  (No.  689). 

(1914).  CHICKEN  WITH  RICE-BRAISED  (Poulet  Braise  au  riz), 

Draw  a  chicken  weighing  three  pounds,  break  the  breastbone  and  fill  the  inside  with  a 
good  dressing  composed  of  beef  marrow  and  raw  ham,  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs,  one  egg-yolk, 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Sew  up  the  opening  on  top  and  truss  with  the  legs  inside;  bard  nicely, 
and  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  proportionate  to  its  size,  with  the  giblets,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  (No. 
123)  two  cloves,  and  some  ham  parings.  Moisten  to  about  its  height  with  stock  (No.  194a)  from 
the  stock  pot  retaining  all  the  fat  and  let  boil  up  briskly  for  five  to  six  minutes;  remove  the  sauce- 
pan on  one  side  of  the  range  to  finish  boiling  the  liquid  slowly  for  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Place  half  a  pound  of  well-washed  and  lightly  blanched  rice  into  another  saucepan,  wet  it 
with  two- thirds  of  the  chicken  broth  after  straining  it  through  a  fine  sieve;  in  case  there  be  not 
sufficient  add  a  little  broth;  cook  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  on  a  hot  fire;  it  should  be  softened 
and  sufficiently  dried;  remove  and  finish  by  stirring  in  with  a  fork,  a  piece  of  butter,  also  a  dash 
of  nutmeg.  Dress  the  rice  on  a  dish,  lay  the  chicken  on  top  after  draining  and  untrussing  it, 
then  serve.  A  small  handful  of  grated  parmesan  cheese  may  be  added  to  the  rice  if  desired. 
Serve  separately  the  remaining  third  of  the  stock  reduced  to  a  half -glaze. 

(1915).  CHICKEN  WITH  TARRAGON-BRAISED  (Poulet  Brais6  a  1'Estragon). 
Choose  a  good  three-pound,  very  white  chicken;  singe  and  draw  it  well;  clean  and  free  it  from 
pin  feathers;  slip  between  the  skin  and  breast  meat  a  six  ounce  piece  of  butter  mingling  it  with  a 
heavy  pinch  of  tarragon  leaves;  truss  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  and  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork; 
place  it  in  a  saucepan,  also  the  neck,  gizzard,  and  a  few  veal  parings;  moisten  just  sufficiently  to 
cover  the  chicken  having  three-quarters  of  unskimmed  broth  (No.  194a),  and  one-quarter  of  white 
wine.  Boil  up  this  liquid,  then  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  more  moderate  fire  to  allow  the  chicken  to 
cook  for  forty-five  to  sixty  minutes;  when  properly  done,  strain  the  liquid,  free  it  of  fat,  and  put 
this  latter  in  with  the  chicken  to  keep  it  warm.  Throw  a  few  tarragon  leaves  into  a  little  boiling 
water;  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  at  the  first  boil,  and  drain  these  leaves  on  a  sieve.  Clarify 
the  chicken  stock,  reduce,  and  afterward  add  to  it  a  piece  of  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  and  the 
juice  of  one  lemon;  untruss  the  chicken,  dress  and  decorate  the  breast  with  the  blanched  tarragon 
leaves;  pour  a  part  of  the  gravy  around,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1916).  CHICKENS  WITH  NEW  VEGETABLES-SMALL-BEAISED  (Petits  Poulets  Braise's  aux 

Legumes  Nouveaux). 

Procure  two  small  tender  chickens  each  one  to  weigh  a  pound  and  a  half;  singe  and  draw, 
truss  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  then  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  melted  butter  and  fry  over  a  slow  fire 
for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  turning  them  around  and  not  letting  them  brown;  moisten  with  a  pint  of 
stock  (No.  194a);  season  and  add  a  garnishing  composed  of  small  new  blanched  carrots  and  uncooked 
fresh  green  peas.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  finish  cooking  the  vegetables  together  with  the  chickens 
in  a  slack  oven,  occasionally  adding  a  little  hot  stock  (No.  194a).  As  soon  as  they  are  nicely  done, 
drain,  untruss  and  cut  each  one  into  four  pieces;  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  form  in  the  canter  of  a 
long  dish.  Strain  the  vegetables,  thicken  them  with  butter  and  add  a  pinch  of  sugar;  range  them 
around  the  pyramid  of  chickens,  and  on  both  ends  of  the  dish  lay  a  cluster  of  mushrooms  and 
one  of  small  glazed  onions. 


(1917).  DUCK  A  LA  BRITANNIA-STUFFED  (Canard  Farci  a  la  Britannia). 
Chop  up  a  little  green  sage  also  one  shallot,  put  them  into  a  vessel  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  three  hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  two  djzen  chestnuts  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs; work  the  whole  well  together  and  with  it  fill  the  duck;  truss  and  roast  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  to  one  hour,  then  dress  on  a  crouton  of  fried  bread,  pour  over  a  poulette  sauce  (No. 
527),  and  serve  more  in  another  sauce-boat. 


POULTRY.  607 

(1918).  DUCK  A  LA  MATIQNON  (Canard  I  la  Matignon), 

Select  a  fine  young  duck  and  truss  it  after  singeing  and  drawing.  Cut  up  some  carrots,  bacon 
and  onions  into  three-sixteenth  inch  squares;  have  also  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Put 
the  bacon  into  a  sautoir  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  fry,  put  in  the  onions  without  coloring  them, 
then  add  the  carrots,  herbs  and  seasoning;  moisten  with  Madeira  wine  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze. 
When  cold  wrap  the  duck  with  this  matignon  in  strong  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and  roast  either 
on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  one  hour.  Unwrap  and  add  the  veg- 
,  etables  to  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  as  much  broth  (No.  194a);  boil  and  despum- 
ate  for  half  an  hour  reducing  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  sauce;  strain  this  through  a  tammy 
(No.  159)  and  pour  a  part  of  it  over  the  dressed  duck,  serving  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1919).  DUCK  A  LA  SLEBREOHT  (Canard  a  la  Siebrecht). 

Have  a  duck  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  roasting  (No.  1921),  dress  and  serve  at  the 
same  time  a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Peel  and  cook  some  sour  apples,  and  when  done  strain  off 
the  liquid  part  collecting  the  pulp  in  a  vessel;  mix  into  this  a  quarter  as  much  grated  fresh  horse- 
radish and  as  much  unsweetened  well  drained  whipped  cream;  pour  this  sauce  into  a  sauce-boat 
and  serve  it  to  accompany  the  duck. 

(1920).  DUCK,  AMERICAN  STYLE-STUFFED  (Canard  Farci  a  1'Amencaine). 
Singe,  draw,  and  clean  well  a  young  duck,  fill  the  insides  with  an  American  bread  stuffing 
(No.  61);  truss  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and  roast  it  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  should  be  allowed.     Dress  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  pour  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  around, 
serving  more  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(1921).  EOAST  DUCK  (Canard  Eoti), 

Singe  and  draw  a  nice  fat  duck,  chop  up  the  liver  with  the  same  quantity  of  fresh  fat  pork, 
season  and  mix  in  a  small  finely  chopped  onion,  some  chopped  parsley,  a  handful  of  bread- 
crumbs passed  through  a  sieve  and  one  egg-yolk;  with  this  dressing  stuff  the  duck's  stomach; 
truss  for  roasting  and  cook  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  for  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes, 
according  to  its  size;  baste  over  several  times  with  butter,  salt,  and  then  take  it  from  the  spit; 
untruss  and  dress  it  on  a  dish  garnishing  around  with  slices  of  lemon.  Send  at  the  same 
time  a  sauce-boat  of  good  gravy  taken  from  the  dripping  pan,  adding  a  little  good  stock  (No. 
194a)  to  it.  This  duck  may  be  served  plain  without  dressing  if  desired. 

(1922).   DUCK  WITH  CEPES  (Canard  aux  Oepes), 

Put  a  good  clean,  trussed  duck  into  a  saucepan  with  melted  fat  pork  and  two  minced  onions, 
fry,  season  and  moisten  with  two  to  three  gills  of  gravy  (No.  404),  then  cook  smothered,  turning 
it  over.  When  three-quarters  cooked,  add  two  to  three  dozen  small  fresh  and  peeled  cepes  free 
of  stalks;  finish  cooking  together  with  the  duck,  and  when  done,  drain  off  the  latter  to  untruss 
and  dress  on  a  dish  with  the  cepes  grouped  around.  Strain  the  gravy  stock,  thicken  it  with  a 
little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  pour  it  over  the  duck  and  garnishing,  then  serve. 

(1923).  DUCK  WITH  OHEKKIES  (Canard  aux  Cerises). 

Prepare  a  duck  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  after  cleaning  and  singeing  it;  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  lined 
with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  moisten  to  half  its  height  with  a  mirepoix  white  wine  stock  (No.  419) 
bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slow  oven.  Suppress  the  stones  and  stalks  from 
one  pound  of  sour  cherries,  set  them  into  an  untinned  copper  pan  with  a  little  water,  lemon  peel, 
cinnamon  and  sugar,  and  let  boil  for  a  few  moments,  in  case  there  should  be  no  fresh  cherries  at 
hand  take  candied  cherries  or  dried  black  ones;  these  should  be  soaked  for  an  hour  in  tepid  water, 
drained  and  put  into  a  pan  with  a  little  fresh  water,  lemon  juice  and  its  peel,  also  cinnamon.  Boil 
the  cherries,  then  keep  it  at  the  same  degree  of  heat,  but  discontinue  the  boiling  for  half  an  hour; 
the  liquid  should  now  be  entirely  absorbed.  After  the  duck  is  ready,  remove  it  from  the  saucepan 
and  untruss,  strain  its  stock,  free  it  of  fat  and  let  reduce  with  some  good  brown  sauce  (No.  414), 
and  after  it  attains  a  sufficient  succulence  and  is  well-reduced,  run  it  through  a  tammy  over 
the  cherries.  Dress  the  duck  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pour  half  the  gravy  over,  lay  the  cherries 
around  and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 


608  TTTE    EPICUREAN. 

(1924).  DUCKS  WITH  OLIVES-BEAISED  (Canards  Braises  aux  Olives). 

Dress  two  ducks  for  entrees  (No.  178)  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  bardes  of  fat 
pork;  moisten  to  half  their  height  with  a  mirepoix  white  wine  stock  (No.  419)  and  let  boil,  skim 
and  simmer  slowly  for  three-quarters  to  one  hour.  Stone  about  one  pound  of  verdal  olives,  blanch, 
drain  and  add  them  to  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  stirred  in  the  mirepoix  stock  from  the  ducks  after 
it  has  been  strained  and  skimmed.  Dress  the  ducks,  cover  lightly  with  sauce  and  garnish  around 
with  the  olives. 

(1925).  DUCKS  WITH  SAUEEKEAUT  (Canards  a  la  Choucroute). 

Dress  two  nice  ducks;  place  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  some  carrots 
and  onions  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  moisten  with  stock  (No.l94a),  boil;  skim  and 
cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  to  an  hour  a  half.  Put  two  pounds  of  well  washed  sauerkraut 
in  a  saucepan,  add  two  onions,  one  containing  two  cloves,  half  a  pound  of  sliced  carrots,  half  a 
pound  of  blanched  breast  of  bacon  and  half  a  pound  of  raw  sausage  (with  or  without  garlic  ac- 
cording to  taste).  Moisten  with  half  broth  and  half  fat  taken  from  the  stock-pot,  boil  and  cook 
slowly  for  two  hours,  then  drain  and  dish  it  around  the  duck  with  the  sausage  and  bacon  cut  in 
slices  dressed  intercalated.  Stir  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522)  into  the  duck  stock,  pour  a  third 
of  it  over  the  ducks,  serving  the  other  two-thirds  separately. 

(1926).  DUCKS  WITH  TUENIPS  (Canards  aux  NavetsX 

Truss  a  good,  clean  singed  duck,  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  with  melted  fat  pork  or  else  lard,  and 
fry  very  slowly  until  it  acquires  a  fine  color,  then  season  and  fry  for  a  few  moments  longer,  drain- 
ing it  off  afterward.  Pour  into  the  same  fat  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  cook  slowly  together  for  a 
few  moments,  moistening  gradually  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.l94a);  stir  the  sauce  while  it  keeps  boil 
ing  for  fifteen  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  range.  Skim  off  the  fat,  strain,  and  add  this  strained  sauce 
to  the  duck  with  a  garnishing  of  good,  sound  turnips  cut  in  clove  of  garlic-shapes  or  else  in  balls^ 
and  browned  in  a  pan  with  butter,  salt,  and  a  little  sugar;  finish  cooking  the  duck  and  turnips  on 
a  very  slow  fire,  and  when  both  are  ready,  lift  out  the  bird,  untruss,  and  dress  it  in  the  center  of  a 
dish,  surrounding  it  with  the  turnips;  strain  the  stock,  skim  and  reduce,  if  there  should  be  too 
much,  and  when  correct,  pour  it  over  the  duck,  and  serve. 

(1927).  DUCKS'  GIBLETS,  HOUSEKEEPERS'  STYLE  (Abatis  de  Canards  a  la  Menagere). 

After  a  duck  has  been  drawn  and  singed,  chop  off  the  neck  as  far  down  as  the  back,  and 
divide  this  neck  into  two  or  three  pieces.  Kemove  the  gall  from  the  liver,  being  careful  not  to 
break  it,  and  cut  the  liver  in  two  or  three  pieces  according  to  its  size.  Clean  the  wings  well.  Put 
four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  the  wings,  the  neck,  and  four  ounces  of  lean  salt  pork 
blanched  and  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares;  when  these  are  nicely  fried,  add  the  liver,  dredge  in  for 
every  set  of  giblets  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour;  stir  well  and  let  the  flour  cook  for  one  second, 
then  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white  wine;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  one 
dozen  small  onions,  and  as  many  carrots  cut  pear-shape;  let  simmer  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  remove 
the  fat  from  the  surface  and  put  in  a  pint  of  uncooked  green  peas,  then  boil  together  for  half  an 
hour  longer.  When  well  done  and  properly  seasoned,  dress  the  meats  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  with 
the  vegetables  arranged  around,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(1928).  DUCKS'  PAUPIETTES  WITH  EISOT  (Paupiettes  de  Canards  au  Eisot). 
Singe  some  young  ducks;  bone  them  entirely,  removing  all  the  meat  and  use  this  to  make  a 
well  seasoned  quenelle  forcemeat  into  which  mix  finely  cut  up  chives,  truffles,  and  mushrooms, 
both  chopped  and  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares  of  cooked  ham.  With  this  forcemeat  cover 
pieces  of  the  auck:s  skin  cut  in  four  or  six  parts,  and  roll  them  up  into  paupiettes,  covering  each 
one  with  a  slice  of  fat  pork;  lay  these  in  buttered  paupiette  rings,  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  covered 
with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  and  moisten  with  some  good  stock  (No.  194a);  cover  over  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  then  a  round  baking  dish  which  will  fit  into  the  saucepan.  Cook  in  a  moderate  oven, 
and  when  done  and  glazed  to  a  fine  color,  take  from  the  rings  and  dress  them  in  a  circle;  garnish 
the  center  with  risot  (No.  739),  and  place  a  channeled  mushroom  head  (No.  118)  on  top  of  each 
paupiette;  serve  with  a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Fry  some  minced  onions  in  oil,  drain,  place  it  in 
a  saucepan  with  lemon  juice,  mignonette,  and  Spanish  sauce  (No.  414),  also  the  skimmed  duck  stock 
reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  and  then  strained  through  a  tammy;  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat  at  the  same 
time  as  the  paupiettes. 


POULTRY.  609 

(1929).  MONGEEL  DUOK-EOASTED  AND  STUFFED  (Oarnard  Mftis  Farci  et  Eoti). 
A  mongrel  duck  is  the  mixed  breed  of  the  wild  and  the  domestic  duck;  it  is  generally  larger 
than  the  domestic,  and  is  usually  served  stuffed  with  a  dressing  made  of  soaked  and  pressed  bread- 
crumbs, into  which  mingle  chopped  and  blanched  onions,  chopped  parsley,  butter  or  chopped  up 
marrow,  salt  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Put  the  duck  in  a  baking  pan,  cover  with  fat  and  roast  in  the 
oven,  basting  over  at  frequent  intervals  while  cooking.  A  mongrel  duck  will  take  from  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  a  goose  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours.  Dress  on 
a  long  dish;  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  roasting  pan,  strain  off  the  fat  and  reduce, 
pour  a  little  of  this  over  the  bird  and  serve  the  remainder  apart. 

(1930).  DUCKLING  A  L'ANDALOUSE  (Oaneton  a  1'Andalouse). 

Procure  a  young  duck;  singe,  draw  and  clean  it  well,  then  truss  it  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178); 
fry  it  very  slowly  with  chopped  up  leaf  lard  and  when  it  assumes  a  fine  color,  remove  it  from 
the  saucepan,  drain  off  the  fat  and  cover  the  bottom  with  slices  of  ham,  cut  up  carrots 
and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf  and  the  duck;  moisten 
with  a  little  white  wine  and  let  this  fall  quickly  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  with  a  little  stock  (No. 
194a),  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze  twice  more.  After  the  duck  is  half  cooked  pour  in  two  gills  of  Malaga 
wine  and  finish  cooking  slowly  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  transfer  the  duck  to  another 
saucepan  and  keep  it  hot.  Strain  the  stock  and  reduce  it  with  the  same  amount  of  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  to  the  consistency  of  a  succulent  sauce,  and  add  to  it  a  garnishing  of  small  mushroom 
buttons,  stoned  Spanish  olives,  and  small  ball-shaped  chicken  quenelles;  dress  the  duck,  garnishing 
with  part  of  the  sauce,  and  serve  the  remainder  separately. 

(1931).  DUCKLINGS  A  LA  BOEDELAISE-SAUTED  (Oanetons    Sautes  a  la  Bordelaise). 

Cut  up  two  ducklings  into  five  pieces  each,  obtaining  the  two  legs,  the  two  wings  and  one 
piece  from  the  breastbone;  pare  them  nicely,  leaving  on  the  pinions,  but  suppressing  the  bone  from 
the  legs,  saute  in  half  clarified  butter  and  half  oil  with  the  addition  of  four  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in 
three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  the  well-chopped  livers,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot, 
the  same  of  parsley  and  a  soupcon  of  garlic;  moisten  with  white  wine,  add  half  a  pound  of  finely 
chopped  cepes,  four  ounces  of  cooked  ham  cut  in  eighth  of  inch  squares,  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
and  some  tomato  puree  (No.  730).  Kemove  at  the  first  boil,  dress  the  duck,  pour  the  sauce  over, 
garnish  the  extremities  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  and  serve  immediately. 

(1932).  DUCKLING  A  LA  BOUEGUIGNONNE-FEIED  (Oaneton    Frit  a  la  Bourguignonne). 

Divide  a  young  tender  duck  into  five  pieces;  two  legs,  two  wings  and  a  breast. piece;  pare 
nicely  leaving  the  pinion  bones  on  the  wings  and  suppressing  the  leg  bones;  lay  these  pieces  in  a 
vessel  to  season  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  chopped  parsley,  very  little  pulverized  thyme  and 
bay  leaf  and  olive  oil.  Break  up  the  carcass,  fry  it  in  butter,  until  well  colored,  adding  mushroom 
parings,  shallots,  cloves,  mignonette  and  nutmeg,  then  moisten  with  red  wine  and  cook  the  whole 
slowly  for  half  an  hour,  strain  through  a  sieve  and  add  this  stock  gradually  to  an  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  that  is  being  reduced,  and  boil  both  together  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  gravy.  Koll 
the  pieces  of  drained  duck  in  flour,  immerse  them  in  eggs  and  fry  in  a  very  white  frying  fat  over  a 
moderate  fire,  allowing  them  to  attain  a  fine  golden  brown  while  cooking,  serve  on  a  folded  napkin 
with  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1933).  DUCKLINGS  A  LA  GEAINVILLE— LAEDED  (Oanetons    Pique's  a  la  Grainville). 

Have  two  ducklings,  draw,  singe  and  lard  them  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52), 
having  previously  plunged  them  in  boiling  water  to  render  the  meat  firm.  Line  a  saucepap. 
with  some  slices  of  ham,  place  the  ducklings  on  top  and  set  around  carrots,  onions  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf  and  thyme.  Moisten  to  half  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a> 
and  finish  cooking,  basting  over  frequently  and  glazing  them  in  such  a  way  that  they  attain  a  nice 
color;  strain  the  stock  free  of  its  fat  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  syrup,  mix  in  some 
blanched  chopped  up  shallots,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  two  oranges. 
Dress  and  garnish  around  with  slices  of  apple  besprinkled  with  sugar  and  cooked  in  the  oven;  serve 
the  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat  separately. 


610  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1934).  DUCKLING  A  LA  LYONNAISE  (Oaneton  a  la  Lyonnaise). 

Bone  the  breast  of  a  large  duckling,  singed  and  well  cleaned.  Fill  up  the  empty  space 
with  a  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64),  mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  lean  cooked  ham 
cut  in  dice-shapes,  and  bread-crumbs,  sew  the  breast  skin,  truss  the  duck,  wrap  it  up  in  larding 
pork  and  let  braise  in  a  narrow  saucepan  slightly  moistened  with  some  stock  (No.  194a),  and  a 
little  white  wine.  Drain  the  duck,  untie  and  untruss,  then  dress  it  on  a  dish  and  surround  with 
clusters  of  small  glazed  onions  alternated  with  clusters  of  whole  chestnuts,  first  cooked,  then  fallen 
to  a  glaze  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404).  Strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat  and  reduce  it  to  a  half- 
glaze,  thicken  it  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  and  serve  it  separately. 

(1935),  DUCKLINGS'  HLLETS  A  LA  MAOEDOINE  OR  GREEN  PEAS  (Pilots  de  Canetons  a  la 

Mace"doine  ou  aux  petits  pois). 

Singe,  drain,  and  clean  two  young  ducklings  trussed  for  entree  (No.  178);  lay  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan lined  with  bardes  of  fat  pork,  moisten  to  half  their  height  with  good  mirepoix  wine  stock 
(No.  419),  let  boil,  then  skim  or  simmer  over  a  slow  fire  or  in  the  oven  until  done, 
basting  over  at  frequent  intervals,  and  glazing  to  a  fine  color;  it  will  take  from  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  to  one  hour  to  cook  them.  When  the  ducks  are  thoroughly  done,  remove  the  fillets,  strain,  skim, 
and  reduce  the  stock  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  when  it  becomes  succulent  and  properly 
reduced,  add  it  to  the  fillets  with  a  piece  of  fine  butter,  rolling  all  the  while  to  mix  well.  Dress 
the  fillets  in  a  circle,  filling  the  inside  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  (No.  680),  or  small  fresh  peas 
with  bacon  prepared  as  follows:  Have  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  half  inch  dice,  unsalt  by  parboil- 
ing, drain  and  fry  in  butter  with  some  small  onions;  moisten  with  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  and  some 
of  the  duck  stock,  let  simmer  until  the  onions  and  bacon  are  cooked,  then  throw  in  three  pints  of 
peas  cooked  French  style  (No.  2743).  Mix  all  together  and  pour  it  into  the  center  of  the  fillets,  or 
else  serve  with  a  garnishing  of  cucumbers  and  Villeroi  (No.  2732). 

(1936).  DUCKLINGS'  FILLETS  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Filets  de  Canetons  a  la  Perigueux). 

This  entre'e  is  to  be  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  cooked  or  noodle  paste  (No. 

142).     Have  a  small  pyramidal  mold,  smooth  and  well  rounded,  and  poach  in  it  a  loaf  of  chicken 

or  veal  forcemeat  mingled  with  an  equal  quantity  of  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64);  keep  this  mold 

in  water  until  needed.     Cook  six  ducklings  in  a  good  mirepoJx  stock  (No.  419),  having  only  very  little 


FIG.  376. 

liquid,  and  when  done  drain  them  out  to  untruss;  detach  the  two  fillets  from  each  breast  retaining 
both  skin  and  wing  bones,  then  pare.  Quickly  unmold  the  small  forcemeat  loaf  on  the  center  of 
the  paste-covered  foundation;  mask  it  over  with  veloute  (No.  415),  reduced  with  the  duck  stock,  and 
dress  the  fillets  in  a  detruncated  circle  around,  that  is  the  six  fillets  on  the  right  side  are  to  incline 
one  way,  while  the  six  on  the  left  the  other.  On  the  summit  of  the  support,  in  the  hollow  formed 
by  the  points  of  the  fillets,  dress  a  tasteful  cluster  of  small,  round  truffles  peeled  and  cooked  when 
required  with  Madeira  sauce,  and  glazed  over  with  a  brush.  Lightly  cover  over  the  fillets  and  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  with  more  of  the  same  sauce,  and  send  a  sauce-boatful  of  it  at  the  same  time  as 
the  fillets. 

(1937),  DUCKLING  A  LA  ROUENNAISE  (Ganeton  a  la  Rouennaise). 

Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  onions,  blanch,  then  fry  in  butter;  chop  up  also  half  a  pound  of 
chicken  livers,  and  half  a  pound  of  leaf  lard,  each  one  separately;  mingle  all  together,  and  when 
very  hot  thicken  with  six  egg-yolks;  add  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  to  this  preparation,  some 
chopped  parsley,  and  finely  cut  up  chives.  Remove  the  breastbone  from  a  duck  and  fill  the  empty 


POULTRY.  611 

space  with  the  above;  truss  for  roasting  and  wrap  it  up  in  buttered  paper,  and  roast  for  about 
half  an  hour.  Serve  it  on  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  have  a  sauce-boatful  of  the 
following  sauce:  Cut  up  two  ounces  of  onions  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares;  cook  them  in  salted 
water,  drain  and  return  them  to  a  saucepan  to  moisten  with  red  wine;  when  this  has  fallen  to  a 
glaze  dilute  it  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 

(1938).    DUCKLING    WITH   GREEN    MAYONNAISE  AND  PINE    HERBS-BROILED   AND 

ROASTED— (Oaneton  Grille  et  Roti  a  la  Mayonnaise  Verte  aux  Pines  Herbes). 
Broiled, — Split  a  singed,  clean  young  duckling  through  the  back,  open  it  entirely  and  flatten 
well,  trim  neatly  cutting  off  the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  salt  and  cover  with  oil;  put  it  in  a  hinged 
double  broiler,  close  and  broil  over  a  moderate  even  fire  for  about  eighteen  minutes;  when  done 
and  of  a  fine  color,  dress  on  a  hot  dish,  serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  green  mayonnaise  fine 
herb  sauce  (No.  612). 

Roasted.— After  singing  and  drawing  the  duckling,  truss  it  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and  cook 
either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  for  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  minutes;  baste  frequently,  salt  only 
when  cooked,  then  untruss  and  dress  on  a  very  hot  dish,  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404), 
over  and  garnish  around  with  water-cress  seasoned  with  salt  and  vinegar. 

(1939).  DUCKLING,  PEASANT  STYLE  (Caneton  a  la  Paysanne). 

Blanch  and  braise  a  small  curled  cabbage  after  cutting  it  in  quarters  and  taking  out  the  core, 
blanch  separately  some  trimmed  carrots  and  turnips,  and  celery  root  cut  like  cloves  of  garlic.  Fry 
six  ounces  of  half  inch  pieces  of  bacon  in  a  saucepan,  remove  it  with  the  skimmer  leaving  the  fat  in 
the  sauce-pan,  and  in  this  fry  very  slowly  a  clean  duckling  trussed — as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  when 
of  a  fine  color  moisten  it  with  a  little  white  wine  and  let  this  fall  quickly  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten 
with  a  very  little  stock  (No.  194a),  and  bring  it  twice  to  a  glaze.  After  the  duckling  is  partly 
cooked,  put  in  the  bacon  and  vegetables,  moisten  with  broth  to  half  the  height  finish  cooking 
the  whole  very  slowly  on  the  fire  or  else  in  the  oven.  At  the  last  moment  untruss  the  duck  and 
dress  it  on  a  dish,  surrounding  it  with  the  garnishings  and  the  quartered  cabbage;  lengthen  the 
stock  with  a  little  more  gravy,  strain  and  thicken  it  with  either  some  sauce  or  kneaded  butter 
(No.  579);  boil  for  two  minutes,  strain  and  pour  it  over  the  duck. 

(1940).  SALMIS  OF  DUCKLING  (Salmis  de  Oaneton). 

To  Rocust. — Select  a  young  and  very  tender  duck,  prepare  and  truss  it  for  roasting  the  same 
as  explained  in  No.  179;  it  should  be  roasted  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
minutes  according  to  its  size  and  the  heat  of  the  fire.  A  domestic  duck  ought  to  be  served  quite 
rare,  and  should  be  killed  without  bleeding.  Dish  it  after  untrussing  and  pour  over  a  little  of 
its  gravy,  garnish  around  with  water-cress  and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  gravy  in  a  sauce- 
boat. 

For  the  Salmis. — Cut  the  roasted  duck  up  in  two  or  three  slices  from  each  breast.  Chop  up 
the  legs  and  carcasses  and  fry  them  in  butter  with  an  ounce  of  onions  and  as  much  shallot,  both 
minced  very  finely;  add  the  parings,  pepper  and  mignonette,  then  moisten  with  red  wine  and  some 
brown  sauce  (No.  414);  reduce  this  to  half,  strain  it  through  a  tammy  and  pour  it  over  the  pieces 
of  dressed  duck;  surround  with  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  and  serve  very  hot. 

(1941).  DUCKLING,  WITH  BIGARADE  SAUCE  (Caneton  a  la  Sauce  Bigaraae). 
Make  a  small  hash  with  some  fresh  pork,  the  duck's  liver  and  two  cooked  chicken  livers;  mix 
into  it  a  handful  of  white  bread-crumbs,  one  egg-yolk  and  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  mushrooms, 
onions  and  parsley  all  minced  very  fine.  With  this  preparation  fill  a  duck's  stomach;  sew  up  the 
apertures,  truss  and  roast  it  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  basting  liberally  with  butter. 
Drain  and  dress  it  on  a  dish  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  serve  a  bigarade  sauce 
(No.  435)  separately. 

(1942).  DUCKLING,  WITH  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES  (Caneton  aux  Topinambours). 
Cook  the  duckling  the  same  as  for  Andalouse  (No.  1930),  and  when  done  dress  and  surround 
it  with  a  garnishing  of  glazed  and  peeled  Jerusalem  artichokes;  serve  with  a  separate  sauce- 
boat  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  worked  with  butter  and  finished  with  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 


612  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1943).  DUCKLINGS,  WITH  ORANGES  (Canetons  aux  Oranges). 

Prepare  two  ducklings  as  for  an  entree  (lTo.  178).  Line  a  saucepan  or  a  braziere  (Fig.  134)  with 
carrots,  onions,  fragments  of  fat  pork,  slices  of  ham  and  raw  veal,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  mushroom  peelings  and  melted  fat  pork.  Lay  the  ducklings  over,  the 
breasts  upper-most  and  pour  on  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a);  cover  and  reduce  the  liquid  slowly  and 
completely,  then  remoisten  with  half  stock  and  half  champagne  or  white  wine,  and  let  simmer  until 
thoroughly  cooked.  Strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat,  despumate  and  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze;  take 
out  a  fourth  part  of  it  and  to  the  remainder,  add  the  blanched  and  shredded  peels  of  two  oranges; 
let  cook  again  for  fifteen  minutes.  Peel  two  oranges,  free  of  all  pith,  remove  the  pulp  between 
each  section  and  take  out  the  seeds,  then  add  this  to  the  sauce;  dish  the  ducklings,  cover  with  a 
quarter  of  the  sauce  kept  aside  and  surround  with  two  medium  oranges  cut  in  four.  Serve  the 
sauce  separately  at  the  same  time  as  the  ducks,  or  else  substitute  an  orange  sauce  (No.  511). 

(1944).  BUSTARD  EN  DAUBE-WILD  GOOSE  (Outarde  en  Daube-Oie  Sauvage). 
As  a  bustard  is  nearly  always  tough,  it  is  necessary  to  hang  it  up  for  several  days.  Pick,  singe, 
draw  and  clean  it  well;  cut  off  the  pinions,  neck  and  drumsticks;  detach  the  legs  from  the  body  as 
well  as  the  breasts,  and  lard  all  these  meats  with  large  shreds  of  raw  ham,  then  season;  lay  them 
in  a  vessel  with  a  pint  of  vinegar  and  as  much  water,  let  macerate  for  twenty-four  hours.  Cover  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  a  large  stone  stock  pot  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  range  in  the  bottom  a  few 
small  carrots  and  turnips  in  the  shape  of  three-fourth  inch  balls,  a  few  onions,  a  bunch  of  aromatic 
herbs  and  two  boned  and  blanched  calf's  feet,  dredge  over  whole  peppers  and  cloves  then  put  in 
the  carcass,  legs  and  breast  pieces  after  draining  them  from  their  marinade.  Moisten  to  half  the 
height  of  the  meats  with  white  wine,  cover  over  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  reduce  the  liquid  for 
a  few  moments.  Close  the  vessel  hermetically  with  a  piece  of  paper  and  a  common  plate  half 
filled  with  water  and  let  it  cook  very  slowly  in  the  oven  for  six  to  seven  hours,  according  to  its  ten- 
derness; remove  carefully  and  dress  on  a  large  dish  with  the  calf's  feet  and  vegetables;  skim 
the  fat  from  the  strained  liquid  and  strain  it  again  over  the  meat. 

(1945).  GOOSE  A  LA  OHIPOLATA  (Oie  a  la  Chipolata). 

A  whole  goose  can  either  be  served  as  a  releve  or  as  a  roast;  the  slices,  legs  and  giblets  as  an 
entree.  A  goose  is  usually  served  at  unceremonious  dinners.  Draw  and  singe  a  goose,  clean  it  well 
and  truss  it  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  fill  the  inside  with  a  sausage  forcemeat  (No.  68)  into  which  mix 
a  handful  of  bread-crumbs,  several  eggs  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  season  highly.  Line  a 
braziere  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  cut  up  carrots  and  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
chervil;  lay  the  goose  on  top  of  these,  surround  it  with  bits  of  veal  and  moisten  with  Madeira  wine, 
broth  and  white  wine  to  half  its  height;  boil,  skim  and  simmer  for  three  to  four  hours  until 
properly  cooked.  Strain  the  stock,  remove  all  its  fat  and  reduce  to  half,  then  pour  it  into  some 
brown  sauce  (No.  414)  in  the  act  of  being  reduced,  adding  more  of  the  Madeira.  Dress  the  goose 
and  garnish  around  with  clusters  of  small  braised  and  glazed  onions,  blanched  carrots  cooked  in 
stock  (No.  194a),  braised  chestnuts  fallen  to  a  glaze,  and  mushroom  heads  cooked,  turned  and 
channeled  (No.  118);  cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1946).  GOOSE  A  LA  EOYER  (Oie  a  la  Royer). 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  the  chipolata  (No.  1945)  and  after  the  stock  has  been  strained, 
skimmed  and  reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  add  to  it  the  juice  of  one  orange,  some  currant  jelly  and 
finely  shredded  cooked  orange  peel,  pour  a  part  of  this  sauce  over  the  goose,  and  garnish 
around  with  sour  apple  tartlets  (No.  3327);  serve  the  rest  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1947).  GOOSE  A  LA  THIEBLIN-ROASTED  (Oie  Rotie  a  la  ThiSblin). 

Pick  out  a  fine  goose,  draw,  singe  and  clean  it  thoroughly,  then  truss  it  for  roasting.  Boil 
fifty  peeled  chestnuts  in  some  stock  (No.  194a)  with  a  few  shredded  celery  stalks,  adding  only  sufficient 
of  the  moisture  just  to  allow  them  to  cook,  and  when  done,  drain.  Put  two  pounds  of  pork  force- 
meat in  a  sautoir  over  a  brisk  fire,  cook,  stir  occasionally  and  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  nutmeg, 
chopped  parsley,  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs  and  two  whole  eggs,  add  the  chestnuts  and  use  this 
dressing  to  fill  the  insides  of  the  goose,  wrap  it  up  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper  and  roast  it 
for  two  and  a  half  hours,  basting  it  over  frequently.  Twenty-five  minutes  before  serving,  unwrap 


POULTRY.  613 

the  goose  and  return  it  to  the  spit  in  order  to  have  it  acquire  a  fine  color,  dress  and  serve  with 
Zuchette  sauce  (No.  564).  Garnish  around  the  goose  with  croustades  filled  with  gooseberries  preparing 
them  in  the  following  way:  Have  two  pounds  of  gooseberries,  cut  off  the  tops  and  stalks,  blanch  for 
two  minutes,  then  drain.  Cook  in  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  small  crack,  add 
the  gooseberries,  toss  them  gently,  then  cool  off,  stir  in  as  much  whipped  cream  as  there  are  goose- 
berries, having  it  unsweetened  and  well  drained;  serve  a  sauce-boat  of  gravy  (No.  404)  at  the 
same  time. 

(1948).  GOOSE,  GERMAN  STYLE-ROASTED  (Oie  Rotie  a  TAllemande). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  goose  the  same  as  for  stuffed  with  chestnuts  (No.  1950),  but  instead  of 
filling  with  chestnut  forcemeat,  substitute  ten  apples,  peeled,  quartered,  cored  and  cooked  in  a 
vessel  with  six  ounces  of  dried  currants  and  four  ounces  of  seeded  raisins,  half  a  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs, cinnamon  and  two  whole  eggs.  Mince  well  a  red  cabbage  after  carefully  removing  all 
the  hard  parts  and  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  with  stock  (No.  194a),  from  which  the  fat  has  not  been 
removed,  and  salt,  cook  slowly  until  ready  to  serve,  then  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
garnish  around  the  goose  with  this  cabbage  and  outside  of  it  set  a  string  of  small  broiled  sausages 
(No.  754). 

(1949).   GEESE  GIBLETS  WITH  TURNIPS  (Abatis  d'Oie  aux  Navets). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  unsalted  bacon  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  let  fry  for  a  few 
moments,  then  add  the  giblets  prepared  as  for  No.  1927  and  the  seasoning,  also  two  dozen  small 
onions  and  four  dozen  turnips  cut  the  size  and  shape  of  large  Spanish  olives,  having  previously  fried 
them  in  butter  with  a  pinch  of  sugar.  Drain  them  and  add  them  to  the  stew  with  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  pour  in  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and 
stock  (No.  194a),  boil,  skim  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour;  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 
When  the  giblets  are  cooked,  remove  the  parsley  and  serve  the  meat  in  the  center  of  a  dish  with 
the  vegetables  around  and  the  sauce  poured  over  the  whole. 

(1950).  GOOSE  STUPPED  WITH  CHESTNUTS  AND  WITH  SAUSAGES  AND  CHESTNUTS- 
ROASTED  (Oie  Rotie  Farcie  aux  Marrons  et  aux  Saucisses  et  Marrons). 

Select  a  fine  goose;  singe  and  reserve  the  fat  and  giblets,  then  wipe  out  the  insides  and  fill  it, 
also  the  breast  with  a  dressing  prepared  as  follows:  Take  one  pound  of  chopped  veal,  and  two  pounds 
of  chopped  fat  pork,  only  mixing  them  together  afterward,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  allspice;  add  two  gills  of  stock  (No.  149a)  or  water,  and  pound  the  whole  together;  then  mix 


FIG.  377. 

in  sixty  chestnuts  that  have  been  roasted  in  the  oven  and  freed  of  skins.  Truss  the  goose  and  lay 
it  in  a  roasting-pan  with  its  own  fat  and  half  a  pint  of  hot  water,  sprinkle  fine  salt  over  it,  and 
cover  with  a  buttered  paper;  then  place  it  in  the  oven  to  cook  for  three  hours,  being  careful  to 
baste  it  occasionally;  it  should  be  well  done;  salt  over,  untruss,  and  dress  on  a  dish;  skim  the  fat 
from  the  surface  of  its  liquid,  pour  in  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  boil,  and  then  strain  through  a  sieve. 
Throw  a  little  of  this  over  the  goose  and  serve  the  remainder  separately. 

With  Sausages  and  Chestnuts. — Prepare  and  cook  the  goose  exactly  the  same  only  omit  putting 
the  chestnuts  in  the  dressing;  but  braise  them  and  use  them  for  garnishing  both  sides  of  the  goose 
and  arrange  small  broiled  Chipolata  sausages  (No.  754)  on  the  ends. 

(1951).  GOSLING  A  LA  SOYER  (Oison  a  la  Soyer). 

Draw,  singe,  and  clean  well  a  young  goose;  truss,  filling  the  inside  with  a  dressing  made  of  a 
pound  of  finely  chopped  beef  suet,  a  pound  of  soaked  bread-crumbs,  having  all  the  water  extracted, 


614  THE    EPICUREAN. 

half  a  pound  of  butter,  some  onions  fried  in  butter  with  the  goose  liver  cut  in  small  squares,  sage, 
thyme,  basil,  marjoram,  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Roast  the  goose  either  on  the  spit  or  in 
the  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  basting  it  frequently.  When  done,  dish  it  up  on  top 
of  a  puree  of  apples  seasoned  with  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Peel  some  apples  cut  in  four;  range  on  a 
generously  buttered  dish,  sprinkled  over  with  sugar,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  in  the  hot  oven, 
and  lay  around  the  goose.  Serve  separate  a  sauce  prepared  with  the  glaze  from  the  dripping  pan 
detaching  it  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  strain  and  skim;  mix  in  gradually  some  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  in  which  currant  jelly  has  been  dissolved;  strain  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  and  serve  it 
in  a  sauce-boat  to  accompany  the  goose. 


(1952).  KOAST  GOSLING  OB  MONGEEL  GOOSE  (Oison  ou  Oie  Matisse  Eotis). 

A  gosling  roasted  on  the  spit  makes  an  excellent  dish.  It  can  also  be  cooked  in  a  slow  oven  laid 
In  a  narrow  earthenware  (Fig.  377)  or  iron  pan  with  plenty  of  fat;  generally  both  these  birds  are 
stuffed  before  being  roasted.  A  mongrel  goose  may  be  filled  with  partly  broiled  chestnuts  lightly  fried 
in  butter  or  fat  pork;  it  can  also  be  stutfed  with  small  apples  after  removing  the  core  with  a  tube 
five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  or  both  chestnuts  and  apples  can  be  replaced  by  a  fresh  pork  hash 
into  which  fine  herbs  and  bread  crumbs  have  been  mixed,  or  even  by  small  sausages  roasted  partially 
in  fat  pork  or  grease.  If  the  goose  be  large  it  will  take  two  to  three  hours  to  have  it  tender;  when  a 
gosling  is  cooked  on  the  spit  it  must  first  be  trussed,  then  wrapped  in  buttered  paper  and  roasted 
for  one  hour,  being  careful  to  baste  frequently  and  to  remove  the  paper  after  it  has  been  in  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  let  it  acquire  a  fine  brown  color,  and  it  is  then  served  simply  with  good 
reduced  gravy  (No.  404).  A  kind  of  thick  pancake  can  be  served  at  the  same  time  made  with 
bread-crumbs  soaked,  pressed,  then  pounded  in  a  bowl  and  diluted  with  whole  eggs  and  milk,  sea- 
soning with  salt,  pepper,  pulverized  thyme  and  marjoram  and  chopped  blanched  onions.  Lay  this 
preparation  on  a  well-greased  tin  sheet  and  cook  in  the  oven  basting  it  bountifully  with  goose 
grease,  after  cutting  it  into  inch  and  a  half  squares. 


(1953).  GOSLING  SAUTED  WITH  TOMATOES,  KOBEKT  SAUCE  (Oison  Saut6  aux  Tomates  a  la 

Sauce  Kobert). 

Have  a  good  gosling,  singe,  draw  and  cut  it  up  into  seven  pieces — the  two  legs  and  five  pieces 
taken  from  the  breast;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  slowly  in  lard.  Drain  off  the  fat  and 
detach  the  glaze  from  the  pan  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404).  Cut  twelve  peeled  tomatoes  across 
in  two,  press  out  the  juice  and  seeds  and  fry  them  in  a  frying  pan  with  very  hot  oil;  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  crushed  and  chopped  clove  of  garlic.  When  the  pieces  are  cooked,  dish  up  and 
dress  the  fried  tomatoes  over;  sprinkle  very  green  chopped  parsley  on  top,  pour  the  gravy  around 
and  serve  separately  some  Kobert  sauce  (No.  533). 


(1954).  GOSLING  STEWED  WITH  TUENIPS  (Eagout  d'Oison  aux  Navets). 

Cut  up  a  small  tender  and  well  cleaned  gosling  into  medium-sized  pieces,  suppressing  the 
pinions,  drumsticks  and  neck;  cut  also  half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  into  half  inch  squares;  fry 
them  for  a  few  moments  in  butter,  and  remove  with  the  skimmer,  leaving  the  fat  in  the  saucepan; 
lay  the  pieces  of  goose  into  this  fat,  fry  over  a  hot  fire  while  stirring,  season  and  add  one  onion 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  When  the  meats  are  browned,  drain 
off  the  fat  and  dredge  the  goose  with  flour,  moisten  to  its  height  with  hot  stock  (No.  194a),  and  boil 
up  this  liquid  while  stirring,  letting  it  remain  in  this  state  for  ten  minutes;  the  sauce  should  now  be 
slightly  thickened.  Cover  well  the  saucepan  with  its  lid  and  continue  to  cook  moderately.  Take 
raw  turnips  and  cut  them  into  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  place  them  in  a  pan 
with  the  strained  fat  from  the  goose,  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  color  them  briskly; 
when  half  cooked  lift  out  the  pieces  of  goose  to  trim  neatly,  strain  its  stock  and  return  it  to  a  clean 
saucepan  with  a  gill  of  Marsala  wine,  the  pieces  of  goose,  the  bacon  and  the  turnips;  boil  together 
for  ten  minutes  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven.  The  gosling  and  turnips  should  both  be  found 
done  at  the  same  time;  dress  all  in  a  deep  dish  with  very  little  sauce. 


POULTRY.  615 

(1955).  GUINEA  FOWL  (Pintado), 
The  guinea  fowl  is  a  pretty  bird  the  same  size  as  an  ordinary  fowl,  having  slate-colored 


FIG.  378. 

feathers  covered  with  small  round  white  spots;  it  is  raised  in  the  poultry  yard;  when  young  its 
meat  is  most  agreeable  to  eat.     The  fecundity  of  a  guinea  fowl  is  most  remarkable. 

(1956).   GUINEA  FOWLS  LAEDED   AND  DECORATED    WITH    THEIE    OWN  FEATHEES- 

EOASTED  (Pintades  Piquees    Eoties  Garnies  de  Lenr  Plumage), 

Guinea  fowls  are  frequently  disguised  with  their  own  or  with  pheasants'  feathers,  for  their 
resemblance  is  almost  similar.  Select  young  guinea  fowls,  dress  and  truss  them  as  if  intended  for 
roasting  (No.  179);  plunge  the  breasts  in  boiling  water  to  stiffen  the  skin  and  lard  them  with  very 
fine  shreds  of  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52);  wrap  them  up  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  then 
roast  them  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven;  when  they  are  three-quarters  done,  unwrap  and  brown 
a  fine  color;  salt  and  dress  on  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  and  decorate  with  either  their  own 
feathers;  serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(1957).  GUINEA  FOWLS  FILLETS  A  LA  GAILLAEDET  (Filets  de  Pintades  a  la  Gaillardet). 

Kaise  the  fillets  from  half  a  dozen  young  guinea  fowls,  remove  the  skin  and  epidermis,  and 
saute  them  over  a  brisk  fire,  but  without  coloring.  Set  them  under  a  weight  and  when  partly  cold 
pare  them  into  half  hearts,  cover  with  some  well-reduced  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560)  and  range  them 
as  quickly  as  they  are  ready  on  a  tin  sheet  to  cool  thoroughly.  Detach  them  from  this  sheet,  roll 
them  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  eggs  and  again  in  bread-crumbs,  smoothing  the  breading  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife.  Fry  them  in  clarified  butter  to  a  fine  golden  brown,  drain  on  a  napkin  and  trim 
the  pointed  ends  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  then  dress  in  a  circle  and  garnish  the  center  of  the  dish 
with  tomatoes  fried  in  oil  with  finely  chopped  shallots  and  mushrooms,  also  some  chopped  parsley; 
serve  with  a  separate  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 

(1958).  GUINEA  FOWLS  WITH  SAUEEKEAUT  (Pintades  a  la  Choucronte). 
Cook  two  pounds  of  good  sauerkraut  perfectly  plain  with  a  piece  of  smoked  bacon  and  half  a 
pound  of  sausages.  Bard  two  young  guinea  fowls  aad  cook  them  smothered  in  a  saucepan;  when 
nearly  done,  add  them  to  the  sauerkraut,  which  is  not  thoroughly  cooked  yet,  and  finish  both 
together.  Drain  off  the  fowls  and  meat  and  reduce  the  liquid  remaining  in  the  sauerkraut,  thick- 
ening it  with  a  piece  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  finish  off  the  fire  with  a  piece  of  plain  butter. 
Dress  on  a  dish,  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  lay  in  it  the  cut  up  fowls  glazing  them  over 
simply  with  a  brush;  serve  a  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separately. 

(1959).  PIGEONS  A  LA  OHAETEEUSE  (Pigeons  a  la  Chartreuse). 

Blanch  half  a  cabbage  and  cut  it  up  into  two  parts,  remove  the  core,  then  braise  these  with 
half  a  pound  of  bacon.  Place  some  melted  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan  and  fry  in  it  three  pigeons;  when 
colored  range  them  over  the  cabbage  and  garnish  the  spaces  between  the  pigeons  with  turnips  and 
carrots  each  blanched  separately,  and  small  onions  browned  in  a  pan;  season  and  then  withdraw  the 
saucepan,  pushing  it  into  a  moderate  oven.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  later  moisten  with  a  gill  of  hot 
stock  (No.  194a).  Finish  cooking  the  pigeons  and  vegetables  very  slowly;  untruss  the  birds  and 


616  THE    EPICUREAN. 

dress  them  over  the  braised  cabbage  laid  in  the  center  of  the  dish;  between  each  pigeon  place  a 
cluster  of  of  onions,  turnips  and  carrots,  separating  each  one  of  these  by  a  thick  slice  of  the 
bacon  standing  upright.  Increase  the  quantity  of  pigeon  stock  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404), 
suppress  all  the  fat  and  thicken  lightly  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414);  strain  this,  pour  part 
over  the  pigeons,  cut  the  causages  in  slices  and  dress  them  around  the  pigeons  one  overlapping  the 
other.  Serve  the  rest  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(1960).  PIGEONS  A  LA  LOMBARDY— POELED  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Lombarde— PoSl&\ 
Prepare  eight  pigeons;  singe,  draw  and  truss  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  wrap  them  up  in  a  dry 
matignon  (No.  406),  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  then  in  strong  buttered  paper.  Butter  and  gar- 
nish the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  sprigs  of  parsley, 
add  the  pigeons,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  as  much  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  until  there  is  no 
more  moisture,  then  remoisten  to  half  the  height  of  the  birds  and  let  simmer  gently  until  they  are 
cooked,  which  will  take  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes,  drain  and  strain  the  stock,  skim  off  all 
its  fat  and  reduce.  Dish  the  pigeons  in  a  circle  over  artichoke  bottoms  fried  in  butter  and  fill  up 
the  middle  with  a  garnishing  of  escaloped  sweetbreads  also  fried  in  butler,  and  on  top  lay  small 
squares  of  cooked  lean  ham  half  an  inch  in  diameter  and  fried  in  butter,  and  over  these  cooked 
channeled  mushroom  (No.  118)  heads.  Cover  these  garnishings  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
stirred  into  the  pigeon  stock  and  serve  also  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  same  sauce. 

(1961).  PIGEONS  A  LA  VALENCIENNES  (Pigeons  a  la  Valenciennes). 

Cut  six  ounces  of  bacon  into  small  dice;  fry  them  for  a  few  moments  in  butter,  then  lift  out, 
leaving  the  fat  in  the  saucepan,  and  into  this  put  three  fine,  clean  and  trussed  pigeons,  also  a 
few  small  onions  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123).  Fry  and  moisten  to  half  their  height 
with  broth,  let  fall  to  a  glaze  and  remoisten  once  more  to  half  the  height  of  the  pigeons  and  finish 
cooking  over  a  moderate  fire.  When  they  are  almost  done  strain  the  stock  and  return  it  to  the  sauce- 
pan without  the  onions  and  parsley  and  let  boil  up;  now  add  four  gills  of  good  rice  for  each  quart 
of  liquid;  put  back  the  bacon  and  a  coffeespoonful  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  finish  all 
together.  Dish  up  the  rice,  untruss  the  pigeons  and  dress  them  on  top,  surround  the  whole  with 
small  chipolata  sausages  and  the  small  onions. 

(1962).    PIGEONS  GAENISHED  WITH  MONTGLAS  OASES-STUFFED  (Pigeons  Farcis  Garnis 

de  Oaisses  Montglas). 

Fasten  a  wooden  foundation  on  a  dish,  it  to  be  one  inch  high  and  not  too  wide;  cover  with  cooked 
paste  (No.  131)  or  noodle  paste  (No.  142)  decorated  on  the  top  with  a  piping  in  relief  and  having  a 
wooden  or  tin  triangle  or  conical-shaped  support  in  the  center,  also  covered  with  paste  and  bored  on 


FIG  3~9. 

top  so  that  a  skewer  can  be  inserted.  Bone  the  breasts  of  three  young,  clean  pigeons  by  splitting  them 
lightly  through  the  back,  but  leaving  the  legs  and  thighs  attached  to  the  bodies;  season  the  inside 
meats  and  fill  the  breasts  with  baking  liver  forcemeat  (No.  81)  combined  with  a  third  as  much  raw 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  lean  ham  and  as  much  cooked  truffles,  all  to  be  well 
chopped;  sew  up  the  back,  truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  with  the  legs  thrust  inside  the  body,  bard 
over  and  wrap  each  one  in  a  small  buttered  clotn,  then  cook  in  a  good  poeler  stock.  As  soon  as  the 
pigeons  are  done,  drain,  unwrap  and  retighten  the  cloth  more  firmly;  put  them  back  into  their  stock 
to  leave  cool,  then  drain  again  and  when  unwrapped,  wipe  them  carefully  with  a  cloth.  Now  detach 
the  breasts  from  the  rump  of  each  pigeon  to  cut  into  lengthwise  slices,  return  them  to  their  original 


POULTRY.  617 

position  and  then  place  the  birds  in  a  sautoir  with  a  part  of  their  stock  reduced  to  a  half -glaze 
warm  them  in  the  open  oven  basting  frequently.  Remove  the  pigeons  to  a  small  baking  sheet, 
smooth  the  cut  parts  nicely  and  cover  the  breasts  with  a  not  too  thick  Mornay  sauce  (No.  504),  so 
the  form  of  the  pigeons  remain  intact;  place  them  for  a  moment  in  the  hot  oven  to  have  the  sauce 
adhere,  then  dress  them  at  once  in  a  triangle  almost  standing  upright  against  the  support;  on  top 
of  this  insert  a  small  skewer  garnished  with  truffles;  surround  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  chain 
of  small  china  cases  filled  with  montglas  (No.  747),  then  covered  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat  and 
poached  in  a  bain-marie;  when  serving  this  entree  send  also  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  reduced  pigeon 
stock  thickened  with  a  little  sauce. 

(1963).  PIGEONS,  HUNTEESS  STYLE-BEEASTS  (Pilets  de  Pigeons  Ohasseresse). 
Raise  the  fillets  from  six  pigeons  leaving  the  minion  fillet  adhere,  pare  and  suppress  the  skin, 
then  salt  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  butter  and  lemon  juice;  place  this  on  a  hot  fire  and  as 
soon  as  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  remove  to  place  under  a  weight;  then  pare  again  and  cover  one 
side  only  with  a  salpicon  of  sweetbreads,  truffles  and  mushrooms  mingled  with  well-reduced  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407).  Cover  this  salpicon  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  diluted  with  a  little 
cream.  Dust  the  tops  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  cheese,  mask  with  butter  and  lay 
the  breasts  in  a  sautoir,  having  the  bottom  covered  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  set  it  in  the  hot 
oven  and  when  the  breasts  are  of  a  fine  color  and  very  warm,  dress  them  in  a  circle,  pouring  a 
Diana  sauce  (No.  460)  in  the  middle. 

(1964).  PIGEONS,  MONAEOH  STYLE-SMOTHEKED  (Pigeons  au  Monarque-k  1'Etuvee). 

Choose  six  good  squabs;  draw,  singe,  and  clean  them  well;  dip  the  breasts  into  boiling  water 
to  harden  the  skin  and  facilitate  the  larding  process,  then  lard  them  with  small  lardons  of  fat  pork 
(No.  4,  Fig.  54),  and  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  glaze  and  let  them  get  a  fine 
color;  when  done,  drain  and  dress.  Garnish  around  with  stuffed  olives,  truffles,  mushrooms, 
quenelles,  cocks'-combs,  and  kidneys,  or  the  combs  may  be  imitated  by  pieces  of  veal  palate  removed 
with  a  cutter  into  comb-shapes.  Cover  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom 
essence  (No.  398),  and  thickened  with  raw  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  sending  some  of  the  sauce 
to  the  table  separately.  Surround  these  garnishings  with  trussed  crawfish,  and  between  these  lay 
slices  of  foies-gras  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter  by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
breaded  a  la  Villeroi  and  fried. 

(1965).  POTTED  PIGEONS  (Eagout  de  Pigeons  au  Four). 

After  cleaning  and  singeing  six  pigeons,  cut  them  up  into  four  pieces;  lay  three  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  with  six  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares;  when  this  begins  to  brown  put  in 
four  ounces  of  onions  cut  in  slices.  Range  the  pigeons  in  an  earthen  pot  or  deep  dish  with  a  bed  o\ 
the  bacon  on  the  bottom,  the  pigeons  on  top,  and  more  bacon  over;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  sprigs  of 
thyme;  moisten  with  thin  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  placing  here  and  there  a  few  pieces  of  pilol 
cracker  dipped  in  water.  Boil  and  then  let  simmer  or  push  in  the  oven  until  thoroughly  done, 
and  serve  in  the  same  crock  they  have  been  cooked  in. 

(1966).  PIGEONS,  PEINTANKEE  STYLE  (Pigeons  a  la  Printaniere). 

Prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  carrots  and  turnip  balls  formed  with  a  half  inch  vegetable- 
spoon,  and  some  large  green  peas;  have  the  carrots  and  turnips  blanched  separately,  and  the  peas 
simply  cooked  in  an  untinned  copper  pan.  Break  the  breastbones  of  three  tender  pigeons,  remove 
these  bones  and  fill  the  breasts  with  a  dressing  made  of  fresh  fat  pork,  chicken  livers  cooked, 
chopped,  and  pounded  with  a  little  panada  and  two  egg-yolks.  Truss  the  pigeons  with  the  legs 
thrust  inside  for  entree  (No.  178),  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  fat  pork,  roots,  and 
minced  onions;  cook  them  almost  dry,  only  having  a  very  little  stock  (No.  194a),  reduce  it  to  a 
glaze,  and  repeat  this  several  times,  when  finished;  drain  them  off,  untruss  and  cut  each  one  in 
two  lengthwise,  then  reconstruct  them  into  their  former  shape.  Dress  them  on  a  dish  leaning 
them  against  a  triangle-shaped  fried  bread  support  fastened  on  the  center  of  the  dish,  and  be- 
tween each  pigeon  set  a  different  garnishing  namely;  the  carrots,  turnips,  and  peas.  Increase  the 
quantity  of  stock  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a),  strain,  skim,  and  reduce  it,  thicken  it  with  brown 
sauce  (No.  414),  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 


618  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1967).  STEWED  PIGEONS  (Pigeons  en  Compote). 

Bleed  six  young  pigeons  in  order  to  kill  them,  reserving  the  blood  in  a  bowl;  mix  with  it  a 
spoonful  of  vinegar  to  prevent  its  coagulating.  After  the  pigeons  are  drawn,  singed  and  well 
cleansed,  truss  them  with  the  legs  thrust  inside.  Glaze  four  dozen  small,  raw  onions,  cut  eight 
ounces  of  bacon  into  half  inch  pieces  and  fry  them  for  a  few  moments  in  a  saucepan  with  butter; 
remove  them  with  a  skimmer  leaving  in  the  fat,  and  to  this  add  the  pigeons,  fry  them  on  all  their 
sides,  and  season  when  they  have  acquired  a  fine  color,  then  dredge  over  a  spoonful  of  flour  and  cook 
together  for  two  minutes  while  tossing  them  about,  now  moisten  the  pigeons  gradually  to  their 
height  with  white  wine  and  hot  stock  (No.  194a),  stir  the  liquid  till  it  boils  rapidly,  then  leave  it  in 
this  state  for  five  minutes,  afterward  removing  the  saucepan  to  a  more  moderate  fire;  now 
add  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  1X3)  and  some  mushroom  peelings.  When  the  pigeons  are 
three-quarters  done,  put  in  both  the  glazed  onions  and  the  bacon  and  finish  cooking  together.  At 
the  last  moment,  drain  out  the  pigeons,  untruss  and  range  them  on  a  dish  surrounded  by  the  garn- 
ishings.  Strain  the  sauce,  free  it  of  fat  and  thicken  it  with  the  blood  mixed  with  two  raw  egg- 
yolks,  cook  this  thickening  without  boiling  it  and  finish  the  sauce  with  a  piece  of  butter,  then 
strain  it  over  the  pigeons. 

(1968).  PIGEONS  WITH  CEAWPISH  (Pigeons  aux  Ecrevisses). 

Cook  some  small  crawfish  with  salt,  white  wine  and  parsley;  break  off  the  tails  and  suppress 
their  shells  in  order  to  be  able  to  pare  them,  chop  up  the  fragments  and  add  them  to  a  little  bread 
forcemeat  finished  with  fine  herbs  and  egg-yolks.  Break  the  breastbones  of  two  or  three  pigeons 
so  as  to  remove  the  bone,  fill  up  the  empty  space  with  the  prepared  forcemeat,  truss  and  braise 
them  with  very  little  moisture,  then  strain  off  the  stock,  free  it  of  fat  and  add  to  it  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  the  crawfish  stock,  thickening  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  cream,  then  put  in  the  craw- 
fish tails,  untruss  the  pigeons,  dish  them  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(1969).  PIGEONS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS  (Pigeons  aux  Petits  Pois). 

Truss  six  pigeons  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  returning  the  livers  to  their  original  place.  Melt 
some  chopped  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  small  five-eighths  inch 
squares  of  bacon  and  fry  for  a  few  moments,  then  remove  them  with  a  skimmer.  Put  the  pigeons 
into  this  saucepan  with  five  or  six  small  onions  for  each  bird,  brown  slightly  and  slowly,  then  add 
one  and  a  half  quarts  of  green  peas,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  the  bacon.  Two  minutes  later 
moisten  with  two  gills  of  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  for  five  minutes  and  withdraw  the  saucepan  to  a 
slower  fire,  push  into  the  oven,  and  finish  cooking  the  peas  and  pigeons,  then  drain  out  the  birds, 
untruss  and  dress  them  on  a  dish;  thicken  the  peas  with  kneaded  butter  (No.  579),  and  place 
them  around  the  pigeons. 

(1970).  PIGEONS  WITH  OLIVES-BREASTS  (Filets  de  Pigeons  aux  Olives). 
This  entree  is  dressed  in  the  hollow  of  a  cooked  paste  border  (No.  10)  cut  into  points  and  open- 
worked  with  a  pastry  cutter.     The  band  intended  for  making  the  border   should  be  cut  out  on  a 
floured  table  as  soon  as  it  has  been  rolled ;  fasten  it  on  a  dish  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  inside  edge, 


FIG.  380. 


spreading  it  slightly;  egg  it  over  with  a  brush  and  dry  for  a  few  hours.  After  this  paste  is  dried,  lay 
inside  of  it  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  more  of  the  same  paste  rolled  out  thin.  Besides  this, 
prepare  a  little  raw  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89)  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  baked  liver  force- 
meat (No.  80;  pounded  and  passed  through  a  tammy.  Poach  this  forcemeat  in  a  pyramidical  mold 


POULTRY.  619 

rounded  and  smooth  an  inch  and  a  half  high,  placed  in  a  bain-marie;  unmold  this  pyramid  in  the 
center  of  the  dish,  for  it  is  intended  to  uphold  the  entree.  Select  a  few  dozen  of  the  finest  and  largest 
Spanish  olives  procurable;  stone  and  blaneh  them  to  stuff  with  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78).  Singe 
six  young  but  large  pigeons  quite  fleshy,  fill  the  breasts  with  a  spoonful  of  grated  fat  pork  and  fresh 
chopped  truffle  peelings;  truss  and  cover  with  fat  pork,  then  cook  in  some  good  stock;  as  soon  as  done 
remove  tountruss;  detach  the  breasts  from  the  back,  remove  the  two  fillets  from  both  breasts,  sup- 
press the  skin,  pare  and  take  off  the  minions.  Lay  the  six  fillets  from  the  left  side  in  a  small  sautoir, 
mask  them  with  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  the  pigeon  stock  and  Madeira;  cover 
and  keep  them  hot.  Pare  the  other  six  fillets,  mask  them  also  on  the  inside  with  a  layer  of  baking 
forcemeat  thickened  with  a  little  raw  forcemeat,  smooth  well,  and  range  these  fillets  in  another  small 
sautoir  having  a  little  half-glaze  on  the  bottom  to  heat  the  forcemeat;  warm  it  while  glazing  ever 
with  a  brush.  At  the  last  moment  unmold  the  pyramid,  lay  the  fillets  around  alternating  them, 
and  all  turned  in  the  same  direction  standing  almost  upright.  Dress  a  part  of  the  olives  in  the 
center  space  formed  by  the  circle  on  top  of  the  pyramid,  and  range  the  others  around  the  open- 
worked  border.  Cover  the  fillets  lightly  with  the  sauce,  also  the  garnishings  and  serve  more 
separately. 

(1971).  PULLET  A  LA  AROO  VALLEY  (Poularde  a  la  Arco  Valley). 

Prepare,  cook,  and  dress  the  pullet  the  same  as  for  a  la  Seymour(No.  1981);  serve  at  the  same 
time  but  separately  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom  broth  and  thickened  when 
ready  to  serve  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter,  adding  chopped  parsley,  small  mushroom 
buttons  and  small  chicken  quenelles.  Garnish  around  with  cassolettes  (No.  860)  of  oysters  poached, 
drained  and  mingled  with  allemande  sauce  (No.  407). 

(1972).  PULLET  A  LA  DAME    BLANCHE  (Poularde  a  la  Dame    Blanche). 

Truss  a  pullet  to  be  served  as  an  entree  (No.  178),  rub  over  the  breast  with  half  a  lemon,  and 
cover  with  slices  of  fat  pork.  Poeler  the  pullet  in  some  good  stock,  as  explained  in  No. 
12,  adding  to  it  a  piece  of  bacon  previously  blanched.  When  the  pullet  is  cooked,  strain  the  stock, 
free  it  of  fat,  and  keep  the  chicken  hot  in  this.  Place  on  the  fire  to  reduce  four  gills  of  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  incorporating  a  part  of  the  reduced  stock  slowly  into  it  with  a  coffeespoonful  of 
prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168);  when  succulent,  strain.  Dress  the  pullet  on  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat 
(No.  79)  poached  on  a  dish,  surround  it  with  small  clusters  of  potatoes  cut  in  balls  with  a  large  vege- 
table scoop,  and  simply  cooked  first  in  salted  water,  then  steamed.  Cover  the  pullet  with  a  part  of 
the  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  separately.  Pullets  or  capons  may  be  handed  round  to  the  guests 
after  being  cut  up,  and  they  can  also  be  carved  on  the  dining-room  sideboard,  and  served  on  hot 
plates  with  some  of  the  garnishing,  and  a  little  of  the  sauce. 

(1973).  PULLET  A  LA  DEMIDOFF  (Poularde  a  la  Demidoff). 

Draw  a  pullet  through  the  side;  crack  the  breastbone  so  as  to  be  able  to  draw  it  out  and  fill  the 
empty  space  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  containing  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped 
truffles,  sew  up  the  skin  underneath,  also  the  side  opening,  and  truss  the  pullet  to  be  served  as  an 
entree  (No.  178).  Cover  over  with  fat  pork,  and  cook  it  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  some  good  mirepoix 
stock  (No. 419).  When  done  to  perfection,  drain,  untruss,  and  dress  it  on  a  dish  having  a  bottom  of 
croustade  rice  fastened  to  it  and  surround  with  a  garnishing  dressed  in  groups  composed  of  small 
truffle  balls  cut  out  with  a  three-eighths  vege tablespoon,  small  balls  from  the  red  part  of  carrots, 
and  small  balls  of  white  turnips,  also  clusters  of  fresh  green  peas  cooked  English  style  in  an  un- 
tinned  pan.  Cover  the  pullet  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  strained  and  reduced  with  the 
pullet  stock,  and  finished  with  two  spoonfuls  of  good  raw  cream,  serving  a  sauce-boat  of  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  separately. 

(1974).  PULLET  A  LA  LEONDISE  (Poularde  a  la  Leradise). 

Roast  the  pullet  the  same  as  No.  1996  and  range  it  on  a  layer  of  macaroni  into  which 
has  been  mixed  crawfish  or  shrimp  tails,  mushrooms,  and  quenelles.  Serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of 
financiere  sauce  (No.  464). 


620  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1975).  PULLET  A  LA  LESTER  WALLACE  (Poularde  a  la  Lester  Wallack). 
Break  and  remove  the  breastbone  of  a  clean  pullet,  fill  in  the  empty  breast  space  with  a  dress- 
ing made  of  grated  fat  pork,  chopped  mushrooms,  and  bread  steeped  in  milk  and  this  liquid  squeezed 
out;  truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  pooler  it  quite  white  (No.  12), 
then  untie  and  dress  on  a  rice  croustade  foundation  fastened  on  a  dish;  surround  it  simply  with 
turned  and  channeled  mushroom  heads  (No.  118),  cooked  artichoke  bottoms  about  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter,  removing  the  center  with  a  five-eighths  of  an  inch  cutter,  then  divide  into  eight 
pieces,  and  small  chicken  quenelles  poached  in  salted  water;  all  these  garnishings  to  be  arranged  in 
separate  groups.  Cover  the  pullet  with  some  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  and  thickened 
with  egg- yolks  and  cream,  and  finished  at  the  last  moment  with  a  salpicon  of  foies-gras  (No.  743), 
passed  through  a  fine  sieve;  serve  more  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1976).  PULLET  A  LA  MARTINIERE  (Poularde  a  la  Martiniere). 

Poeler  a  pullet  very  white  (No.  12);  drain  and  cut  it  up  into  eight  pieces;  dress  them  simply  on  a 
force-meat  ring  poached  on  the  dish;  surround  with  a  circle  of  medium-sized  poached  spoon  quenelles 
(No.  155),  and  cover  the  chicken  and  quenelles  with  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with 
mushroom  peelings,  and  finished  with  a  little  good  cream.  Serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separ- 
ately with  very  small  and  very  white  mushrooms  added. 

(1977).  PULLET  A  LA  MORNAY  (Poularde  a  la  Mornay). 

Select  a  good  clean  pullet  and  truss  it  for  entree  (No.  178);  poeler  it  in  a  stock  (No.  194a),  keeping 
it  very  white,  then  drain,  and  when  half  cold  detach  the  bread  so  as  to  be  able  to  dress  a  garnish- 
ing in  the  empty  spaces  of  the  remaining  carcass.  Escalop  these  breast  fillets  and  lay  them  in  a 
sautoir  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  cocks'-combs  and  kidneys,  mushrooms  and  foies-gras,  and 
moisten  this  stew  rather  sparingly  with  reduced  thick  allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  Range  this  in  the 
cleaned  out  empty  space,  having  them  reassume  their  former  shape,  smooth  them  nicely  and  cover 
with  a  layer  of  Mornay  sauce  (No.  504),  smooth  this  also  and  besprinkle  over  with  a  grated  parme- 
san  cheese,  then  glaze  the  surface  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123)  or  in  a  hot  oven.  After  finishing 
the  pullet  dress  it  on  a  long  dish  containing  a  layer  of  poached  forcemeat,  cover  the  breasts  with 
a  row  of  slices  of  truffles  and  surround  the  base  with  clusters  of  chicken  croquettes. 

(1978).  PULLET  A  LA  NANTUA  (Poularde  a  la  Nantua). 

Split  down  the  back  of  a  singed  and  very  clean  pullet;  bone  the  breast  and  legs,  leaving  on  the 
wing  bones;  season  the  inside  meats  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89) 
combined  with  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  and  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  also  the  crawfish  tails 
cut  lengthwise  in  two.  Sew  up  the  pullet,  truss  and  have  the  breast  well  rounded,  then  cover 
over  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  lay  it  in  a  narrow  saucepan,  cover  three-quarters  of  its  height  with 
skimmed  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  aromatic  herbs  and  mushroom  peelings;  cook  it  in  this  alone 
for  one  hour;  it  should  really  only  be  poached;  then  drain  off  the  pullet,  untie  and  dress  it  on 
a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat  poached  on  a  dish;  cover  lightly  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced 
with  a  part  of  the  stock  and  finished  with  red  butter  (No.  580).  Surround  with  small  timbales 
of  fat  rice  made  in  timbale  molds  (No.  6)  letting  it  be  quite  white;  serve  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1979),  PULLET  A  LA  PERIGORD  (Poularde  a  la  P6rigord), 

After  the  pullet  has  been  singed  stuff  the  breast  with  pounded  veal  suet  seasoned  with  salt, 
prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  adding  to  it  some  chopped  up  truffles. 
Insert  thick  slices  of  truffles  between  the  fat  and  skin,  then  wrap  the  fowl  in  a  matignon  (No. 
406)  and  roast  it  on  the  spit  or  oven;  unwrap  and  reduce  the  matignon  with  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414)  and  Madeira;  dress  the  pullet  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

(1980).  PULLET  A  LA  PRINTANIERE-GLAZED  (Poularde  Glace^e  a  la  Printaniere). 
Have  a  clean,  singed  pullet;  break  the  breast  bone  and  stuff  the  breast  with  grated  fat  pork 
mingled  with  truffle  peelings,  truss  for  entree  (No.  178).  Scald  the  breast  in  boiling  water  to 
harden  the  meat,  then  dip  these  scalded  parts  at  once  into  cold  water,  wipe  dry  and  lard  with  fine 
lardons  of  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Lay  the  puliet  in  a  saucepan  containing  fragments  of  fat 
pork,  roots  and  minced  onions,  salt  over  and  steam  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  then  moisten 


POULTRY.  621 

with  two  or  three  gills  of  stock  (No.  194a)  and  allow  it  to  fall  to  a  glaze.  Remoisten  to  half  its 
height  with  stock  and  reduce  the  liquid  slowly  to  half,  finish  cooking  the  pullet  in  this 
manner,  basting  it  over  frequently;  when  done  it  should  be  glazed  to  a  fine  color;  drain  it  off  to 
untruss  and  dress  on  a  dish,  surrounding  it  on  both  sides  with  clusters  of  new  cooked  carrots  and 
small  glazed  onions.  Strain  and  skim  the  pullet  stock,  reduce  it  until  it  becomes  succulent,  then 
thicken  with  a  little  good  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  serving  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(1981).  PULLET  A  LA  SEYMOUK  (Poularde  k  la  Seymour). 

Soak  a  pound  and  a  half  of  bread  in  milk,  then  press  out  all  the  liquid  and  add  it  to  half  a 
pound  of  very  finely  chopped  beef  suet  taken  from  around  the  kidneys  and  a  seasoning  of  shallots, 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  cream  and  egg-yolks;  use  this  to  stuff  the  inside  and  the  breast  of  a 
pullet,  prepared  for  roasting  (No.  179),  tie  it  up  and  cover  with  fat  pork,  then  roast  it  before  a  good 
fire  basting  it  over  frequently,  remove,  dress  and  pour  on  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  then  serve. 

(1982).  PULLET  A  LA  VILLAES  (Poularde  k  la  Villars). 

Truss  a  pullet  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  with  the  legs  inside;  rub  over  the  breasts  with  half  a 
lemon,  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  tie  well  and  poeler  it  in  some  good  stock  (No.  12)  keeping  it  very 
white.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve,  drain  out  the  pullet,  untie  and  dress  it  on  a  trimmed  rice 
croustade  foundation  fastened  on  a  dish,  and  surround  it  with  a  white  garnishing  composed  of 
lamb's  sweetbreads,  cocks'-kidneys  and  mushroom  heads,  dressed  in  clusters  and  these  alter- 
nated with  fine  slices  of  red  beef  tongue  cut  in  points  to  resemble  cocks'-combs.  Cover  the  pullet 
and  garnishings  with  a  little  Villars  sauce  (No.  559)  and  serve  more  of  it  separately. 

(1983).  PULLET  A  LA  ZINGAEA  (Poularde  a  la  Zingara). 

Draw  two  pullets,  singe  and  truss  with  the  legs  inside,  then  tie,  stiffen  the  breast  meats  and 
lard  them  with  lardons  of  tongue  and  fat  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Line  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan 
with  bards  of  the  same  pork  and  slices  of  veal,  round  slices  of  carrots  and  onions,  one  whole  onion 
containing  a  clove  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  lay  the  pullets  on 
top,  cover  over  with  strong  buttered  paper  and  moisten  with  one  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a);  boil, 
skim  and  cook  slowly  for  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  thirty  minutes  before  serving  allow 
it  to  brown  to  a  nice  color.  Pound  four  ounces  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  with  the  same 
amount  of  butter,  season  with  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  and  dissolve  this  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  heat  it  up  and  add  a  little  espagnole  (No.  414);  rub  the  whole  through  a 
tammy  and  lay  this  puree  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish  with  the  pullets  on  top. 

(1984).  PULLET,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Poularde  a  1'Ancienne), 

Draw  and  singe  a  pullet,  trim  and  insert  slices  of  truffle  between  the  skin  and  flesh,  truss  as 
for  an  entree  (No.  178),  and  lard  the  legs  with  rosettes  of  truffles,  bard  it  nicely  and  cook  in  stock 
(No.  194a)  then  drain  and  dress  garnishing  around  with  cauliflower  and  serving  a  separate  well- 
buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  into  which  mingle  some  chopped  up  truffles. 

(1985).  PULLET,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Poularde  a  1'Anglaise). 

After  the  pullet  is  cooked  as  for  ancient  style  (No.  1984),  dress  it  the  same,  only  changing  tho 
garnishing  to  one  of  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  Brussels  sprouts  and  green  peas,  the  whole  cooked 
in  salted  water;  serve  a  cream  bechamel  (No.  411)  separately. 

(1986).  PULLET,  EGYPTIAN  STYLE— BEOILED  (Poularde  Grille's  a  1'Egyptienne). 
First  braise  the  pullet  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  and  place  it  in  a  vessel  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and 
lemon  juice,  drain,  then  immerse  in  bread-crumbs,  saturate  with  oil  and  broil   over  a  slow  fire. 
When  very  hot  and  of  a  fine  color  dress  on  a  layer  of  rice  oriental  style  (No.  2978).     Serve  with  a 
separate  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  into  which  has  been  added  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168). 

(1987).  PULLET  IN  SUEPEISE  (Poularde  en  Surprise). 

Dress  a  pullet  leaving  the  neck  skin  very  long;  break  the  breast  bone  in  order  to  remove  it  and 
fill  the  empty  breast  space  with  rather  firm  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Truss  the  pullet  with 
the  legs  thrust  under  the  skin  and  wrap  the  breast  around  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  braise  (No.  12) 


622  THE    EPICUREAN. 

it  the  same  time  as  a  chicken  and  then  let  both  get  cold.  Untruss  the  pullet,  divide  the 
breasts  from  the  carcass,  leaving  on  the  legs  and  a  part  of  the  breast,  so  that  it  forms  a  long  hollow 
case;  lay  it  erect  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  till  the  bottom  of  the  hollow  case  with  a  layer  of 
chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  poach  this  for  two  minutes  in  a  slack  oven.  Cut  the  two  pullet 
fillets  into  large  Julienne,  also  those  taken  from  the  cooked  chicken;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
the  same  quantity  of  cooked  foies-gras  and  as  many  cooked  truffles  both  cut  up  the  same  size  as 
the  chicken  meat,  mingling  some  good  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  the  whole;  it  should 


FIG.  381. 

remain  quite  consistent.  Dress  this  on  the  top  of  the  cream  forcemeat  in  the  hollow  case,  smooth 
it  well  rounded  on  top,  and  cover  with  a  thick  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat;  smooth  this  carefully 
to  the  shape  of  the  original  breast  in  order  to  have  the  pullet  served  whole.  Decorate  both  sides 
of  the  breast  with  graduated  truffle  crescents;  butter  the  forcemeat  lightly  with  a  brush  and  poach 
in  a  very  slack  oven.  After  removing  the  pullet,  dress  it  on  a  dish  having  its  bottom  covered 
with  a  layer  of  foundation  rice  (No.  160)  to  maintain  it  in  position,  and  lay  on  the  outer  edge  a  fancy 
silver  border  (Fig.  6);  keep  the  whole  hot  for  ten  minutes,  then  remove  and  dress  on  each  side  a 
cluster  of  very  white  mushrooms;  cover  them  as  well  as  the  breast  with  a  little  supreme  sauce  (No. 
547)  prepared  with  the  stock  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  same. 

(1988),  PULLET  IVORY  WITH  DECORATED   QUENELLES    (Poularde   a  ITvoire  aux  Quenelles 

D6core"es). 

Break  the  breast  bone  of  a  cleaned  and  singed  pullet,  tie  it  up  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  and 
insert  a  piece  of  butter  into  the  breast;  cover  over  with  bards  of  fat  pork  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan 
of  its  own  dimensions;  moisten  to  its  height  with  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  the  liquid  over  a  hot 
fire  then  remove  the  saucepan  on  a  slower  one,  cover  and  finish  cooking  the  pullet  for  forty-five 
to  sixty  minutes.  As  soon  as  done  to  perfection,  strain  the  stock  through  a  napkin  into  another 
vessel  leaving  the  pullet  to  keep  warm.  Skim  the  fat  from  the  stock  and  pour  the  top  gently  into 
another  saucepan,  then  reduce  it  with  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  cream;  strain  this  through 
a  tammy.  Dress  the  pullet,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  around  with  chicken  quenelles  deco- 
rated with  truffles  (No.  154). 

(1989).  PULLET,  MODERN  STYLE  (Poularde  a  la  Moderne). 

Peel  two  pounds  of  fresh  truffles  and  chop  up  the  peelings;  pound  them  with  one  pound  of 
panada,  adding  half  as  much  raw  foies-gras;  continue  to  pound,  putting  in  eight  ounces  of  grated 
fat  pork,  a  few  eggs  and  seasoning,  then  rub  the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Fill  the  breasts  of  a  pullet 
with  a  part  of  this  dressing,  using  the  remainder  for  the  insides;  braise  (No.  12)  with  a  very  little 
moistening;  dress  when  cooked,  and  garnish  around  with  cocks'-combs,  and  the  peeled  truffles 
sauted  in  butter,  and  cooked  in  Madeira.  Reduce  the  braise  stock  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
and  just  when  ready  to  serve  incorporate  a  few  pats  of  fine  butter;  pour  it  over  the  pullet  and 
garnishings,  and  serve  some  well-buttered  chicken  puree  (No.  713)  separately. 

(1990).  PULLET,  PARISIAN  STYLE-STUFFED  (Poularde  Farcie  a  la  Parisienne). 

This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  dish  decorated  with  an  open-work  border  made  of  cooked  paste  (No. 
10),  having  the  empty  space  in  the  center  covered  with  a  wooden  foundation  masked  over  with  noodle 
paste  (No.  142),  dried  in  the  air.  Draw  a  pullet  through  the  side,  break  the  breastbone  to  be  able  to 
draw  it  out,  and  stuff  the  breast  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  finished  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  and  a  foies-gras  salpicon  cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  dice,  and  truffles 


POULTRY.  623 

of  the  same  size;  sew  the  breast  skin  underneath,  and  truss  the  pullet  as  for  entree  (No.  178);  cover 
with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  cook  in  a  good  stock  (No.  194a),  keeping  it  white,  and  when  done 
properly,  drain,  untie,  and  untruss.  Lay  it  on  the  foundation  already  placed  on  the  dish;  surround 


FIG.  382. 

it  with  a  garnishing  of  round  truffles  cooked  at  the  last  moment  with  Madeira  and  melted  glaze  (No. 
402).  Cover  the  pullet  with  some  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  its  own  stock  and  the 
Madeira  and  glaze  in  which  the  truffles  have  been  cooked,  and  serve  a  sauce-boat  of  the  sauce 
at  the  same  time. 

(1991),  PULLET  TARTAR  SAUCE-BROILED  (Poularde  Grille  a  la  Sauce  Tartars). 
Draw  and  truss  a  pullet  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  then  split  it  down  the  center  of  the  back, 
flatten  and  bread-crumb  it  English  style  with  egg-yolks  and  butter  beaten  together;  broil  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish;  pour  a  little  good  gravy  (No.  404)  under,  and  send  to  the  table 
with  a  separate  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(1992).  TRUTFLED  ROASTED  PULLET  (Poularde  TruffSe  Rotie). 

A  few  days  before  this  is  needed  draw  the  pullet  through  the  side  and  wipe  the  inside  well.  Peel 
twelve  to  sixteen  ounces  of  fine,  fresh  truffles,  leaving  them  either  whole  or  cut  in  two  or  four 
according  to  their  size.  Melt  two  ounces  of  grated  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  truffles 
and  season  with  fine  allspice;  fry  for  two  minutes,  remove  and  use  this  to  stuff  the  breast  of  the 
pullet.  Sew  up  the  openings  and  truss,  then  lay  it  aside  in  a  cool  place.  When  needed  wrap  it 
in  buttered  paper,  run  it  on  a  spit  (No.  118)  or  else  lay  it  in  a  small  cradle  spit  (No.  116)  without 
boring  any  hole  through  it  whatever,  and  roast  it  for  one  hour,  basting  frequently.  Unwrap  it 
ten  minutes  before  serving  to  salt  over  and  allow  to  attain  a  fine  color;  take  it  out,  untie  and  send 
it  to  the  table  with  a  sauce-boat  of  good  reduced  gravy  (No.  404)  into  which  has  been  added  the 
chopped  up  truffle  peelings. 

(1993),  PULLET  WITH  OROUSTADES  PnTANOIERE  (Poularde  aux  Oroustades  Financiere). 

Draw  a  pullet,  singe  and  free  it  well  of  all  the  pin  feathers  adhering  to  the  flesh;  truss  as  for 
an  entree  (No.  178)  and  rub  over  with  lemon  juice;  wrap  it  up  in  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  tying  it 
on  firmly.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  slices  of  veal,  two  slices  of 
raw,  smoked  ham,  a  few  cut  up  carrots,  two  onions,  two  cloves,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  season  with  salt  and  whole  peppers;  place  it  on  the  fire  and  let  simmer 
for  an  hour  or  more  and  when  done,  strain  the  stock  through  a  napkin,  remove  its  fat  and  reduce 
it  with  two  gills  of  espagnole  (No.  414).  Drain  the  pullet,  untruss  and  lay  it  on  a  dish,  garnishing 
around  with  some  crousfades  made  in  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137)  and  filled  with  financiere  salpicon. 
(No.  667). 

(1994).  PULLET  WITH  MUSSELS  OR  OYSTERS  (Poularde  aux  Monies  on  anx  Hnitres). 
Truss  and  cook  a  pullet  exactly  as  with  the  ravioles  (No.  1995),  wash  some  mussels  in  several 
waters  and  place  them  in  a  covered  saucepan  over  a  brisk  fire  to  open;  when  this  occurs  remove 
from  their  shells,  transfer  them  to  another  vessel.  Fry  colottess  in  butter  a  little  parsley  and 
chives,  add  two  gills  of  either  be'chamel  (No.  409)  or  veloute  (No.  415),  a  little  stock  (No.  194a)  and 
grated  nutmeg;  boil  this  sauce  up  once  or  twice,  then  put  in  either  the  mussels  or  else  some 
prepared  oysters;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  drain  the  pullet,  untruss  and  dress.  Thicken  the 
sauce  with  a  few  raw  egg-yolks  and  fine  butter,  heat  it  up  without  boiling  and  range  the  garnish- 
ings  around  the  pullet,  cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  what  remains  separately. 


624  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(1995).  PULLET  WITH  BAVIOLES  (Poularde  aux  Eavioles). 

Draw  a  fine  pullet,  singe  and  clean  it  well,  truss  it  for  an  entree,  (No.  178),  and  cover  over 
with  slices  of  fat  pork.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  (Fig.  134),  lay  over  some  sliced  onions 
and  carrots,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  two 
cloves.  Moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  to  three-quarters  its  height,  then  boil,  skim  and  cook 
slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours;  drain  off  the  stock,  free  it  of  fat  and  return  this  to  the 
braziere  to  keep  the  pullet  warm.  Keduce  the  stock  with  veloute  (No.  415)  if  for  white,  or  espag- 
nole  (No.  414)  if  for  brown.  Dress  the  pullet  on  a  layer  of  ravioles  (No.  2976)  mingled  with  some 
veloute"  or  espagnole  and  parmesan  cheese,  and  serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  the  sauce  with  cooked 
fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped  parsley  added. 

(1996),  PULLET  GARNISHED  WITH  WATER-ORESS-ROASTED  (Poularde  Rotie  au  Oresson), 

Six  to  nine  months  old  pullets  are  the  most  desirable  ones  especially  when  quite  fat.  Roasted 
poultry  should  be  treated  with  extreme  care,  for  the  roast  is  the  most  essential  part  of  a  dinner 
and  is  partaken  of  by  almost  every  one.  Should  the  fowl  not  be  barded,  then  it  must  be  enveloped 
in  a  buttered  paper  and  basted  frequently  while  cooking,  either  with  butter  or  else  good  poultry 
fat.  Draw  and  singe  a  good  pullet,  truss  it  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and  place  it  on  the  spit  or  in 
the  oven,  although  roasting  on  the  spit  is  far  the  most  preferable.  "When  the  pullet  is  nicely 
done  dress  and  surround  with  water-cress,  serving  its  own  gravy  strained  and  free  of  fat  sepa- 
rately. 

(1997).    BLAffQUETTE   OF   PULLET   WITH    MUSHROOMS    Qlanquette    de    Poularde    aux 

Champignons). 

Begin  by  detaching  the  legs  from  a  trussed  and  singed  pullet,  cut  each  of  these  in  two,  then 
lay  them  in  a  vessel  containing  water;  divide  the  breast  in  two  and  cut  each  piece  into  three  parts; 
plunge  them  also  into  the  cold  water  with  the  cut  up  carcass;  let  soak  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes 
then  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  an  onion  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  cover  plentifully 
with  white  chicken  broth  (No.  188);  boil  and  skim  this  liquid  for  twelve  minutes  then  take  it  off  the 
fire.  Prepare  a  white  roux  (No.  163)  with  flour  and  butter,  dilute  it  with  the  strained  and  skimmed 
pullet  broth  when  partially  cold  and  stir  this  sauce  well  until  it  boils;  let  it  despumate  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  on  the  side  of  the  fire  while  removing  the  fat  from  the  surface.  Pare  and  wipe  the  pieces 
of  pullet,  return  them  to  the  saucepan  with  two  dozen  turned  mushrooms  (No.  118);  strain  the 
sauce  over  and  finish  cooking,  finally  dressing  the  pieces  of  pullet  in  a  deep  dish  with  the  mush- 
rooms. Keduce  the  sauce  for  a  few  miuutes,  thicken  with  two  egg-yolks  finishing  it  off  the  fire 
with  a  piece  of  butter  worked  in,  also  some  lemon  juice;  strain  and  pour  it  over  the  pullet. 

(1998).  PULLETS  A  LA  MONTMORENOY-BBEASTS  (Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  Montmorency). 

Fasten  to  a  dish  a  plain  or  ring-shaped  bottom  covered  with  cooked  paste  (No.  131)  or  noodle 
paste  (No.  142),  having  in  its  center  a  tin  cup  equally  covered  with  ornamental  pieces  of  paste,  egg 
it  all  over  and  dry  in  the  air.  Pare  the  fillets  of  five  small  pullets,  suppressing  the  superficial 


FIG.  383. 


skin,  remove  the  minion  fillets  and  streak  them  with  truffles,  also  suppress  the  pinion  bones, 
trimming  them  into  half  hearts  rounded  on  one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other.  Place  the  minion 
fillets  on  the  larger  ones,  both  slightly  bent;  Range  the  fillets  on  the  bottom  of  a  sautoir  with  a 
layer  of  cold  clarified  butter,  being  careful  to  have  them  all  lie  in  one  direction,  so  that  the  pointed 


POULTRY.  625 

ends  extend  toward  the  center.  With  the  cut  up  pullet  carcasses,  prepare  a  little  chicken  essence 
(No.  387)  and  when  done  and  nicely  seasoned,  strain  and  skim  off  the  fat  and  incorporate  into  it  a 
few  gills  of  good  veloute  (No.  415)  in  the  act  of  being  reduced.  When  this  sauce  is  perfect  and 
succulent,  finish  it  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good,  raw  cream  and  afterward  a  piece  of  fresh  butter; 
keep  it  in  a  bain-marie  till  needed.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  sprinkle  the  fillets  over  with  salt  and 
poach  them  lightly,  drain  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  the  foundation  prepared  on  the  dish.  Fill  the 
center  cup  with  a  garnishing  of  peeled  truffles  cooked  in  Madeira;  cover  the  fillets  lightly  with  the 
sauce,  serving  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 


(1999).  PULLET  A  LA  MONTPENSIEB-MINION  FILLETS  (Filets  Mignons  de  Poularde  a  la 

Montpensier). 

Streak  twelve  minion  fillets  with  truffles,  shape  them  into  rings  two  inches  in  diameter  and 
poach  them  with  butter  in  a  small  sautoir.  Cut  twelve  quarter  inch  thick  slices  from  the  middle 
part  of  freshly  cooked  red  beef  tongue  and  from  each  of  these  slices  cut  out  a  round  piece  the  same 
size  as  the  minion  fillet  rings;  lay  these  tongue  rounds  on  thin  crusts  of  bread  fried  in  butter  and 
covered  with  a  layer  of  consistent  soubise  (No.  723),  then  mask  the  tongue  rounds  with  a  layer  of 
reduced  thick  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  and  on  top  set  the  minion  fillet  rings,  one  on  each,  filling 
in  their  hollow  spaces  with  a  large  stuffed  Spanish  olive  standing  upright  and  covered  with  more 
of  the  same  Madeira  sauce.  Dress  the  hot  fillets  in  a  circle  and  in  the  center  place  a  garnishing  of 
green  asparagus  tops  (No.  2693). 


(2000).  PULLETS'  BREASTS  A  LA  VAKSOVIAN  (Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  Varsovienne). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  pullet  fillets  as  for  Montmorency  (No.  1998),  poach  them  in  butter  and 
dish  in  a  circle  intercalating  with  a  crouton  of  bread  fried  in  butter;  fill  the  center  with  cepes 
sauted  with  fine  herbs  and  garnish  around  with  small  chicken  croquettes  (No.  877)  made  crescent- 
shaped  and  fried  in  hot  and  very  white  frying  fat.  Cover  the  fillets  with  bechamel  (No.  409)  into 
which  has  been  mixed  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  lemon  juice;  have  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same 
sauce  served  at  the  same  time  as  the  fillets. 


(2001).  PULLETS'  BEEASTS  A  LA  VISCONTI  (Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  Visconti). 
Pare  the  fillets  of  three  pullets  each  one  weighing  from  three  to  four  pounds;  suppress  the 
superficial  skin  covering  the  minions,  also  the  pinion  bones;  beat  them  lightly,  giving  them  the 
shape  of  a  half  heart  on  one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other;  range  these  fillets  on  the  bottom  of  a 
sautoir  covered  with  a  layer  of  clarified,  and  cold  butter  being  careful  to  place  them  all  in  such  a 
way  that  the  sharp  ends  point  toward  the  center.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  salt  them  over  and 
cook  slowly  on  both  sides  while  turning,  then  drain  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  ring  of  poached  force- 
meat laid  on  a  dish.  Serve  them  with  a  garnishing  in  the  center  composed  of  cocks'-combs  and 
kidneys,  mushrooms  and  truffles,  mingled  with  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  into  which  has  been  added 
half  its  quantity  of  mushroom  puree  (No.  722). 

(2002).  PULLETS'  MINION  FILLETS  WITH  MACEDOINE  (Filets  Mignons  de  Poularde  a  la 

Mac6doine). 

Pare  twelve  pullets'  minion  fillets,  remove  the  outer  skin  and  inside  sinew;  pare  and  streak 
with  three-quarter  circles  of  red  beef  tongue  cut  into  graduated  sizes;  range  them  on  the  bottom 
of  a  sautoir  and  cover  with  clarified  butter,  forming  each  one  into  the  shape  of  a  crescent,  salt, 
sprinkle  with  butter,  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven,  then  drain  off.  Cover  a  dish  with  a  garnishing  of 
macedoine  vegetables  mixed  with  bechamel  (No.  680),  and  finished  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  melted 
glaze  (No.  402)  and  several  small  pats  of  fresh  butter;  surround  this  with  the  minion  fillets.  Fill 
some  crescent-shaped  bottomless  molds  placed  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  with  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  89)  leveled  to  the  height  of  the  mold  with  the  blade  of  a  knife.  Place  a  sautoir  on  the  fire 
containing  clarified  butter,  set  in  the  molds  having  the  paper  on  top,  push  in  the  oven  to  detach 
the  paper;  remove  this  and  lay  the  sautoir  on  the  fire  to  color  the  crescent  to  a  fine  color  on  both 
sides;  unmold,  drain,  and  dress  the  minion  fillets  on  these,  and  around  arrange  the  mace'doine 
garnishing  (No.  680). 


626  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

(2003).  PULLETS'  LEGS  A  LA  BAYONNAISE  (Ouisses  de  Poularde  a  la  Bayonnaise). 
Remove  the  legs  from  three  singed  pullets  retaining  the  skin  covering  the  back  as  far  down  as 
the  rump;  bone  them  entirely  with  the  exception  of  the  drumstick;  put  them  in  a  vessel  with  salt, 
mignonette,  lemon  juice  and  a  broken  bay  leaf;  let  marinate  for  three  hours,  being  careful  to  turn 
them  over  several  times.  Twenty-five  minutes  before  serving,  drain  and  roll  each  one  in  flour,  fry 
them  in  grated  fat  pork  and  when  they  attain  a  fine  color  and  are  well  cooked,  remove.  Slice  four 
medium  onions  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  detach  the  pieces  so  they  form  rings,  flour 
over  and  fry  these  to  a  golden  brown.  Dress  the  legs  in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  cover  over  with 
brown  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522)  with  some  grated  Bayonne  ham  added  to  it,  and  garnish  the  whole 
with  the  fried  onions;  trim  the  stump  bones  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  serve  immediately. 

(2004).  PULLETS'  LEGS  DEVILED  (Ouisses  de  Poulardes  a  la  Diable). 

Generally  this  dish  is  prepared  with  pullets'  legs  already  cooked  and  then  broiled,  but  raw  ones 
can  also  be  used.  Score  and  season  well — pepper  should  predominate — then  roll  them  in  mustard 
diluted  with  oil;  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  over.  Serve 
with  a  deviled  sauce  (No.  459). 

(2005).  PULLETS'  LEGS  WITH  NEW  CARROTS  (Ouisses  de  Poulardes  aux  Garottes  Nouvelles). 

Have  three  singed  pullets  and  from  them  remove  the  legs  and  the  skin  covering  the  back,  bone 
them  entirely,  retaining  the  drum  sticks;  stuff  them  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  cooked 
fine  herbs  (No.  385),  shaping  them  like  a  cutlet;  cover  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  braise  them  in  a 
little  mirepoix  stock  with  white  wine  (No.  419)  into  which  add  six  dozen  small  new  blanched 
carrots,  but  in  case  there  be  no  new  ones  procurable  use  others,  cutting  them  up  to  represent  the 
new  ones.  When  these  are  cooked,  lift  them  out  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
butter,  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  and  fine  herbs.  Strain  the  stock,  free  it  of  fat  and  reduce  it  with 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  to  the  consistency  of  half-glaze;  skim  well  the  surface  of  the  sauce;  dress 
the  legs  in  the  center  of  a  dish  with  the  new  or  other  carrots  around,  pour  over  some  of  the  sauce 
and  serve  the  remainder  of  it  separately. 

(2006).  SQUABS  A  LA  BRIAND  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Briand). 

Soak  bread-crumbs  in  a  little  broth;  press  it  to  extract  well  the  moisture,  then  lay  it  in  a  bowl 
with  a  quarter  as  much  good  butter,  a  few  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg;  work  this  preparation 
well,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  onions  chopped  and  blanchea;  use  this  for  filling  the 
squabs,  then  truss  them  for  an  entree  (No.  178)  and  run  them  on  the  spit  to  roast,  being  careful 
to  baste  over  occasionally  with  butter;  untie  them,  remove  the  larding  pork  covering  the  breasts 
and  lay  them  on  a  bed  of  sauted  tomatoes  (No.  2841).  Serve  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  separately 
into  which  mix  Worcestershire  sauce,  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  chopped  parsley  and  tarragon  vinegar. 

(2007).  SQUABS  CRAPAUDINE-BROILED  (Pigeonneaux  Grilles  Orapaudine). 

After  a  squab  has  been  well  drawn,  singed  and  thoroughly  cleaned,  cut  each  side  from  the 
pinion  of  the  wing  to  the  tip  of  the  breast;  open  without  de- 
taching the  parts,  having  the  legs  and  back  on  one  end,  and 
the  breast  on  the  other;  beat  well  to  flatten,  season  and  dip  in 
melted  butter;  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  slowly. 
While  this  is  progressing  chop  up  one  shallot  exceedingly 
fine,  blanch,  drain  and  fry  it  colorless  in  butter,  add  to  it  some 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  FlQ 

and  white  wine;  season  and  then  pour  this  sauce  into  a  dish, 
dress  the  squabs  on  it  and  surround   with  slices  of  lemon   cut  in   halves. 

(2008).  SQUABS  A  LA  ORISPI  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Orispi). 

Bone  the  backs  of  some  small  squabs,  fill  the  insides  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  con- 
taining mushrooms,  ham  and  truffles  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  enclosing  it  well 
in  the  birds.  Lay  some  rings  in  a  sautoir  already  garnished  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  place  the 
squabs  inside  these  rings,  cover  with  more  slices  of  the  pork  and  moisten  with  a  very  little  mire- 
poix stock  (No.  419)  with  Madeira  wine,  and  when  cooked  place  a  round  tin  plate  on  the  squabs 


POULTRY.  627 

with  a  weight  on  top  to  flatten  the  birds  slightly.  Dress  them  crown-shaped  and  cover  over 
with  green  ruvigote  sauce  (No.  531);  lay  a  cooked  trussed  crawfish  and  serve  more  of  the  sauce 
separately. 

(2009).  SQUABS  A  LA  FLOTJKENS  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Flourens), 

Procure  eight  squabs,  draw,  singe  and  truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  or  one  squab  for  each  guest 
Chop  up  very  fine  eight  ounces  of  beef  marrow,  mix  with  it  eight  ounces  of  butter,  some  chopped 
parsley,  finely  cut  up  chives,  eight  chopped  tarragon  leaves,  a  little  crushed  and  chopped  garlic, 
salt,  pepper,  four  ounces  of  lean  ham  cut  into  one-eighth  inch  squares,  four  ounces  of  bread-crumbs 
and  two  whole  eggs.  Fill  the  squabs  with  this  dressing  and  roast  them  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the 
oven  for  thirty  minutes,  basting  them  frequently.  When  done,  untruss,  dress  in  a  circle  and  pour 
in  a  garnishing  of  sweetbreads  and  artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  to  which 
has  been  added  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Serve  some  of  this  sauce  separately. 

(2010).  SQUABS  A  L'IMPEOMPTU— SAUTED  (Pigeonneaux  Saute"s  a  I'lmpromptu). 
After  the  squabs  are  prepared  the  same  as  for  broiling,  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  and  when 
done,  dress.  Fry  and  cook  colorless  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  shallots  for  each  pigeon,  add  to  it  a 
little  flour,  moisten  lightly  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white  wine,  boil  and  skim;  reduce  this  rapidly 
over  a  hot  fire  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  incorporate  a  little  fine  butter,  lemon  juice  and 
chopped  parsley;  pour  this  over  the  squabs  and  serve  at  once. 

(2011).  SQUABS  A  LA  STANISLAS-STUFFED  (Pigeonneaux  Farcis  k  la  Stanislas). 
Fry  eight  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares  in  butter,  also  as  much 
fresh  mushrooms  sliced  the  same  size,  with  a  little  chopped  shallot  and  parsley.  Fill  the  pigeons 
with  this  preparation  and  roast  them.  Have  as  many  round  truffles  as  there  are  pigeons,  each  one 
inch  in  circumference,  peel  and  use  the  parings  to  pound  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and 
with  this  make  some  quenelles  the  shape  and  size  of  large  verdal  olives;  poach  and  put  them  into 
an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  also  the  peeled  truffles  and  some 
channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118).  When  the  squabs  are  roasted  untruss  and  dish  up  with  the 
garnishings  ranged  around. 

(2012).  SQUABS,  AMEEIOAN  STYLE— STUFFED  (Pigeonneaux  Farcis  a  1'Ame'ricaine). 

Have  six  squabs,  draw,  singe  lightly  and  truss  as  for  roasting  (No.  179);  fill  the  insides  with 
an  American  bread  dressing  (No.  61),  and  cover  the  breasts  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  roast 
them  either  in  the  oven  or  on  the  spit;  they  take  about  twenty  minutes  when  stuffed  and 
fifteen  when  not.  Dress  and  surround  with  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  pouring  a  little  clear  gravy 
(No.  404)  around. 

(2013).  SQUABS,  OOLBEET  SAUCE— BEOILED  (Pigeonneaux  Grille's  Sauce  Colbert). 
Select  small  squabs  and  after  they  have  been  plucked,  drawn  and  singed,  clean  them 
nicely  and  cut  the  necks  from  the  bodies;  truss  with  the  legs  thrust  inside  and  split  them  down 
through  the  back  the  whole  length  as  far  as  the  rump;  beat  the  breasts  to  have  them  quite  flat,  pare, 
then  season  with  salt  and  mignonette;  immerse  them  in  melted  butter  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs; 
then  broil  over  a  slow  fire  for  about  ten  minutes,  laying  them  with  the  breast  side  downward  and 
turning  them  over  as  fast  as  they  attain  a  good  color,  finish  cooking  and  dress  with  some  gravy 
(No.  404)  poured  over  or  else  serve  them  on  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451);  garnish  around  with  slices  of 
lemon  cut  in  halves. 

(2014).  SQUABS,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Pigeonneaux  a  1'Anglaise). 

Truss  eight  squabs  as  for  an  entre'e  (No.  178),  wrap  them  up  in  bards  of  fat  pork.  Lay  them  in 
a  saucepan  lined  with  thin  slices  of  ham  and  moisten  to  their  height  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock 
(No.  419);  cover  with  a  round  sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  place  the  lid  on  tight.  Boil  andsimmer 
until  the  squabs  are  thoroughly  done;  which  will  take  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Prepare  eight 
oval-shaped  bread  croutons,  three  inches  long  by  two  wide,  make  an  incision  all  around  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  from  the  edge  and  to  half  their  depth,  then  fry  in  clarified  butter,  and  empty  out  the 
center.  Dress  the  squabs  on  these  croutons,  range  on  a  dish  and  place  between  each  a  vegeta- 


628  THE  EPICUREAN. 

ble  garnishing  composed  of  carrots  trimmed  to  imitate  new  ones,  then  blanched  and  cooked  in 
broth;  turnips  shaped  like  corks  with  the  edges  rounded,  then  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  stock 
(No.  194a),  small  green  peas  boiled  in  salted  water  with  fresh  mint,  tossing  with  butter  after 
draining,  and  string  beans  boiled  in  salted  water  and  finished  with  butter,  fill  in  the  center  with  a 
fine  cauliflower  boiled  in  salted  water  and  having  butter  noured  over.  Serve  a  York  sauce  (No. 
563)  separately. 

(2015).  SQUABS,  NEW  YOKE  STYLE  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  New  Yorkaise). 

Have  some  squabs  drawn,  singed,  cleaned,  and  trussed  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  fry  them  white 
in  butter  and  dredge  over  a  little  flour;  fry  for  a  few  moments  longer  without  browning,  then 
moisten  with  beef  stock  (No.  194a);  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf, 
small  onions,  potato  balls  made  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  circumference,  and  small  half  inch  dice 
of  bacon  fried  in  butter.  A  few  moments  before  serving,  add  some  quenelles  shaped  to  represent 
large  verdal  olives  either  of  godiveau  or  else  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which 
mingle  chopped  sweetbreads  and  parsley;  poach  these  in  boiling  water.  Just  when  ready  to  serve, 
remove  the  parsley,  thicken  the  stew  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  cream,  and  incorporate  a 
piece  of  fresh  butter,  and  dress  the  squabs  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  with  the  garnishing  around. 

(2016).  SQUABS  WITH  TARRAGON  (Pigeonneaux  a  rEstragon). 

After  the  squabs  have  been  drawn  and  singed,  split  them  lengthwise  in  two  down  the  back, 
but  do  not  separate  the  parts;  beat  lightly,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Put  two  ounces  of 
butter  into  a  saute  pan,  and  after  it  begins  to  heat,  lay  in  the  squabs,  the  breast  side  downward, 
and  set  it  on  a  brisk  fire;  when  browned  on  one  side,  turn  them  to  do  likewise  on  the  other;  they 
take  about  twelve  minutes  to  cook.  Dress  and  pour  off  half  the  butter  in  the  pan,  and  to  the 
remainder  add  a  pinch  of  flour,  stir  well,  pour  in  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
good  tarragon  vinegar,  and  salt;  let  the  sauce  give  one  or  two  boils,  season  it  nicely,  and  pour  it 
over  the  squabs. 

(2017).  SQUABS  WITH  FIGARO  SAUCE— PRIED  (Pigeonneaux  Frits  a  la  Sauce  Figaro). 

Singe  and  draw  some  young,  tender  pigeons;  truss  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  then  wrap  them  in 
slices  of  fat  pork.  Butter  a  saucepan,  line  it  with  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  and  a  garnished  bunch 
of  parsley  (No.  123);  lay  the  squabs  on  top.  Moisten  to  half  their  height  and  let  the  liquid  fall  to 
a  glaze,  then  remoisten  and  boil  very  slowly  until  cooked  to  perfection,  adding  half  a  bottleful  of 
white  wine,  pouring  it  in  at  two  or  three  different  intervals.  Let  the  squabs  become  cold,  then 
split  them  in  two,  pare  nicely  and  dip  them  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  fry  to  a  fine  color, 
having  the  birds  well  heated  throughout.  Drain,  wipe  off,  and  salt;  dress  them  on  a  folded 
napkin  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  on  top.  Serve  at  the  same  time  but  separately  a  figaro  mayonnaise 
sauce  (No.  609). 

(2013).  SQUABS  IN  EARTHENWARE.SAUOEPAN  OR  STUFFED-ROASTED  (Pigeonneaux  Rfitis 
a  la  Casserole  ou  Pigeonneaux  Farcis  Rotis  au  Four). 

In  Earthenware  Saucepan. — Procure  six  squabs,  draw,  singe  and  truss  well  with  the  legs 
thrust  inside,  keeping  them  a  pretty  shape.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  small  earthenware 
saucepan  and  when  hot,  add  the  squabs  and  roast  them  in  this  over  a  good  fire  or  in  the  oven; 
when  done,  drain  and  pour  off  the  fat,  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  untruss 
the  squabs,  put  them  back  in  the  pan,  dress,  strain  the  sauce  over  them  and  serve  in  the  earthen 
ware  pan. 

Stuffed. — Steep  a  piece  of  bread  in  broth  and  at  once  squeeze  out  all  the  moisture;  lay  it  in  a 
saucepan  and  add  to  it  as  much  chopped  beef  suet,  a  few  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg;  stir  this 
preparation  with  a  spoon  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  onions.  Break  the 
breastbones  of  three  young,  drawn  and  clean  squabs,  fill  the  empty  space  with  the  prepared  dress- 
ing and  roast  them  quickly  on  the  spit,  basting  over  with  melted  butter.  Salt  over  when  ready  to 
take  out,  untruss  and  dress  on  a  dish,  garnishing  them  if  so  desired  with  a  little  very  green 
water-cress  seasoned  with  salt  and  vinegar,  and  serve  some  gravy  (No.  404)  separately. 


POULTRY.  629 

J019).  SQUABS,  BEEASTS  A  LA  DUXELLE-STUFFED  (Filets  de  Pigeonneaux  Parcis  a  la  DuxeM 
Pare  eight  to  ten  breasts  of  squabs;  split  them  in  two  through  their  thickness  without  detach- 
ing the  parts,  but  simply  to  form  a  pocket,  fill  this  in  with  a  little  duxelle  with  raw  truffles  (No. 
461),  close  the  opening,  season  the  breasts,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  mixed  with  cooked  fine  herbs, 
(No.  385)  roll  in  fresh  bread-crumbs  and  then  in  melted  butter  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire.  Dress  the 
breasts  crown-shaped  on  a  dish  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  to  which  has  been  added 
butter,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2020).  SQUAB  FRITTERS,  OPORTO  SAUCE  (Beignets  de  Pigeonneaux,  Sauce  Oporto), 
Pluck,  draw  and  singe  some  nice  squabs,  free  them  of  all  their  feathers,  cut  off  the  stumps 
and  pinions,  then  divide  them  in  two  lengthwise  and  afterward  split  them  across  on  the  bias  to 
obtain  two  pieces  from  each,  one  from  the  legs  and  from  the  wings;  lay  them  in  a  vessel  and  season 
with  salt,  whole  peppers,  nutmeg,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  sliced  onions,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  oil,  leave 
to  marinate  for  two  hours,  turning  them  over  occasionally,  take  each  piece  out  and  dip  it  in  frying 
batter  (No.  137),  then  plunge  into  very  hot  frying  fat,  drain,  salt  and  dress  them  in  a  pyramid 
form  on  a  folded  napkin;  serve  separately  a  currant  sauce  (No.  455)  with  Port  wine. 

(2021).  SQUABS  A  LA  CAROLINA  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Caroline). 

Cut  up  some  squabs  after  being  dressed  in  six  pieces  each;  have  the  same  quantity  of  blanched 
terrapin  of  the  same  size;  place  them  in  a  saucepan  and  moisten  with  half  Madeira  and  half  stock  (No. 
194a) ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  boil  up  once,  then  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven  for  about  thirty 
minutes;  when  done  thicken  the  sauce  with  hard  boiled  egg-yolks  pounded  with  as  much  butter 
and  then  passed  through  a  sieve,  add  a  little  white  wine  and  season  highly.  Koll  well  the  meat  in 
the  sauce  to  have  it  thick,  and  serve  the  whole  inside  a  border  made  of  rice  boiled  in  salted  water, 
and  fresh  butter  added,  for  ten  minutes  or  until  it  ceases  to  crackle  between  the  teeth,  then  drain 
and  mingle  it  with  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409).  Mold  this  rice  in  a  liberally  buttered  plain  border 
mold  (Fig.  139),  push  it  into  the  oven  for  a  few  moments,  invert  it  on  a  dish,  remove  the  mold 
and  fill  in  the  center  with  the  stew. 

(2022).  SQUABS  A  LA  VESTAL  (Pigeonneaux  a  la  Vestale). 

Mix  in  with  some  veal  godiveau  (No  85)  truffles,  chives  and  parsley  all  well  chopped;  range 
this  forcemeat  in  a  plain  well-buttered  border  mold  (No.  139)  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Cut 
some  squabs  in  four,  fry  them  in  butter  to  a  nice  color,  drain  off  the  grease,  add  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407)  and  small  mushroom  heads;  fill  the  inside  of  the  unmolded  border  with  this  stew; 
bestrew  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan;  pour  melted  butter  on  it  and  brown  the 
whole  in  a  hot  oven  serving  when  of  a  fine  color. 

(2023).  TURKEY    HEN  (Dinde). 

The  hen  turkey  is  the  female  of  the  gobbler;  it  hatches  on  the  ground  and  is  very  prolific. 
The  meat  of  the  hen  turkey  is  far  more  delicate  than  that  of  the  male,  therefore  it  is  more  frequently 
selected  for  stuffing  with  truffles  or  chestnuts.  In  order  to  have  it  good  it  must  be  young  and 
raised  in  the  barn-yard.  Its  meat  is  better  in  winter  time  after  leaving  it  hang  for  a  certain 
period;  it  can  be  roasted  or  else  cooked  in  its  own  gravy,  both  ways  are  excellent,  but  if  old  then 
it  should  be  boiled.  Wild  turkeys  abound  principally  in  North  America  and  feed  on  fruits  and 
green  acorns;  their  meat  is  far  more  delicate  and  succulent  than  that  of  the  domestic  turkey.  The 
eggs  are  much  liked  either  boiled  or  cooked  in  an  omelet. 

(2024).  TURKEY  A  LA  CHIPOLATA— STUFFED  (Dinde  Farcie  a  la  Ohipolata). 
Select  a  small  turkey  not  too  fat  but  quite  fleshy;  bone  the  entire  front  part  leaving  the  breast- 
skin  as  long  as  possible,  also  the  thighs;  diminish  the  thickness  of  the  fillets  and  place  these  pieces 
where  there  is  no  meat  so  as  to  equalize  the  thickness  of  the  meat.  Season  the  inside  of 
the  breasts.  Cut  lengthwise  two  veal  minion  fillets  and  fry  them  in  butter,  season  and  throw  over 
some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  then  let  get  cold;  mix  in  with  these  a  few  fillets  of  veal  udder,  and 
of  cooked  ham  and  truffles,  also  an  equal  quantity  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Fill  the 
empty  space  with  the  garnishing  and  forcemeat  mixed;  press  the  forcemeat  into  the  skin  of  the 


330  THE    EPICUREAN. 

turkey  and  let  it  assume  its  original  shape;  braise  it  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a 
half  on  a  very  slow  fire,  and  at  the  last  moment  glaze,  drain  off  and  untruss  the  turkey.  Dress  it 
on  a  rice  croustade  foundation  (Fig.  9a)  and  surround  with  a  chipolata  garnishing  (No.  657) 
into  which  a  good  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  Madeira  wine  has  been  added  reduced  with  the 
braise  stock;  pour  a  part  of  this  sauce  over  the  turkey,  and  serve  the  remainder  separately. 

(2025),  WILD  TTJKZEY  A.  LA  DELAG-EANGE— STUFFED  (Dinde  Sauvage  Farcie  a  la  Delagrange). 
Singe  and  draw  a  young  wild  turkey,  then  truss  for  an  entree  (No.  178).  Prepare  a  dressing 
composed  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  warm  water  and  the  liquid  entirely  extracted,  season  with  salt, 
fine  spices,  sage,  chopped  onions  fried  in  butter,  and  finely  chopped  beef  marrow;  add  some  roasted 
chestnuts,  and  broiled  sausages  free  of  skin,  and  cut  into  slices.  When  all  the  ingredients  are 
thoroughly  mixed,  fill  the  turkey  with  it  and  braise  in  a  saucepan  garnished  with  bards  of  pork, 
and  moistened  with  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  when  nearly  done,  glaze,  drain,  untruss, 
and  dress  on  a  layer  of  Piedmontese  risot  (No.  739);  serve  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced 
with  the  mirepoix  stock,  thickening  with  raw  egg-yolks  and  cream;  when  ready  to  serve  incor- 
porate a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  and  a  piece  of  fine  butter.  Pour  part  of  this  sauce  over  the 
turkey  serving  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2026).  SMALL  TUEKEY  A  LA  FINANOIEEE— LAEDED  (Petite  Dinde  PiqnSe  a  la  Financiere). 
The  turkey  represented  in  Fig.  385,  the  recipe  of  which  is  given  below,  is  simply  dressed  on  a  rice 
croustade  foundation  (Fig.  9a),  cut  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick.  Prepare  a  financiere  garnishing 
composed  of  whole  truffles,  mushroom  heads,  large  cocks'-combs  and  four  large  chicken  quenelles 
molded  on  buttered  paper  and  decorated  with  truffles;  keep  them  warm.  Select  a  good,  small 
fleshy  turkey  not  too  fat,  break  the  breastbone  in  order  to  draw  it  out,  and  fill  up  the  empty  space 


FIG.  385. 

with  grated  fat  pork  pounded  with  fresh  truffle  peelings;  sew  up  the  skin,  truss  it  with  the  legs 
inside  and  lard  the  fillets  and  thighs  with  fine  shreds  of  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Put  the  turkey 
in  a  small  braziere  lined  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  roots  and  minced  onions;  moisten  to  half  its 
height  with  good  broth  (No.  194a)  and  reduce  the  liquid  quickly  to  half,  finish  cooking  the 
turkey  quite  slowly  while  basting  frequently;  at  the  last  moment  allow  it  to  brown  nicely  in  the 
oven.  Strain  and  skim  the  stock,  reduce  it  to  a  half-glaze,  incorporating  into  it  slowly  some 
good  espagnole  (No.  414)  that  is  in  the  act  of  being  reduced,  adding  at  the  same  time  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good  dry  white  wine.  Untruss  the  turkey,  dress  it  on  the  foundation  and 
surround  it  with  the  prepared  garnishings  dressed  according  to  the  illustration;  glaze  the  truffles 
and  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  cocks'-combs  and  mushrooms.  Serve  the  prepared  sauce 
at  the  same  time  as  the  releve  which  is  intended  to  be  placed  on  the  table. 

(2027),  TURKEY  A  LA  SAETIGES-STUDDED  (Dinde  Oloutee  a  la  Sartiges), 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  ten  pound  turkey  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  stuff  the  insides  with  a 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  mixed  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  dip  the  breasts  in  boiling 
water  to  stretch  the  skin,  drive  twelve  truffle  nails  into  each  fillet  at  equal  distances  apart  and 
arranged  symmetrically  in  rows  of  six  each,  then  wrap  the  turkey  in  slices  of  fat  pork  fastening 
them  on  with  a  string.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  fat  pork,  lay  in  the  turkey  and 
moisten  to  a  little  above  its  height  with  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  boil,  skim  and  cook  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  the  bird  is  done  drain  it  off  and  dress  it  on  a  rice  foundation.  Have  a 


POULTRY. 


631 


garnishing  of  cocks'-combs  truffles,  quenelles,  and  cepes  dressed  in  clusters  around  the  turkey; 
strain  and  skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  stock,  reduce  it  to  a  succulent  sauce  with  some  espagnole 


FIG.  386. 

(No.  414)  added;  pour  a  part  of  this  over  the  garnishings  and  the  remainder  to  be  served 
separately  with  Spanish  olives  stuffed  and  minced  mushrooms. 

(2028).  TURKEY,  AMERICAN  STYLE-ROASTED  (Dinde  Rotie  a  rAmericaine). 
Draw,  singe  and  truss  a  turkey  weighing  from  eight  to  twelve  pounds,  selecting  a  very  fresh 
one.  Clean  the  insides  thoroughly,  having  it  well  washed  and  dried,  then  fill  with  a  bread  stuffing 
(No.  61);  wrap  it  well  in  strong  buttered  paper  and  lay  it  on  the  spit,  running  the  iron  rod  of  the 
spit  between  the  loins  and  the  string  that  is  used  for  trussing  the  turkey;  fasten  the  legs  firmly  to 
this  rod  and  roast  before  a  good  fire  for  about  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half.  Fifteen  minutes 
Before  serving,  unwrap  the  turkey,  that  is  to  remove  the  paper  and  let  it  assume  a  fine  color 
while  continuing  to  baste;  it  should  be  a  golden  brown  and  cooked  to  perfection.  Dress  and 
pour  around  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  and  then  garnish  with  very  green  water  cress;  serve  with 
a  sauce-boat  of  cranberry  sauce  (No.  598). 


(2029).  TURKEY,  TRENCH  STYLE  (Dinde  a  la  Prangaise). 

Choose  a  small  fat  turkey;  draw,  singe  and  clean  it  well,  extracting  all  the  pin  feathers;  break 
the  breastbone,  remove  it  and  fill  the  breast  with  an  Engish  bread  dressing  (No.  61);  sew  up  the 
skin  underneath  and  truss  it  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  lay  it  in  a  braziere  of  the  same  dimensions  as 
the  turkey,  having  it  lined  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  moisten  to  half  its  height  with  mirepoix  stock 


FIG.  387. 

(No.  419)  and  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil;  then  cover  the  turkey  with  a  thick  buttered  paper  and 
cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  with  the  braziere  well  closed;  simmer  slowly  while 
basting  frequently.  At  the  last  moment  drain  off  the  turkey,  untruss  and  dress  on  a  rice 
foundation  (Fig.  9a)  surrounding  it  with  clusters  of  cauliflower,  mushroom  heads,  braised  celery, 
glazed  carrots  and  stuffed  cucumbers,  or  else  both,  all  being  arranged  in  separate  groups.  Cover 
the  breasts  with  some  veloute1  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  the  stock  already  strained  and  skimmed, 
serving  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 

(2030).  TURKEY  WITH  OEPES  (Dinde  aux  Oepes). 

Pick  out  four  dozen  good  unopened  cepes  weighing  about  four  pounds,  having  them  fresh, 
sound,  and  of  equal  size;  cut  off  and  peel  the  stalks,  chop  them  up  and  cook  in  butter  with  a  little 
chopped  onion.  Prepare  a  fine  hash  with  one  pound  ot  veal,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork,  sea- 


632  THE    EPICUREAN. 

soning  it  highly,  add  the  chopped  cepes  and  a  handful  of  soaked  and  pressed  out  bread-crumbs. 
Crack  the  breastbone  of  a  fat  turkey,  remove  the  bone  and  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  the  prepared 
dressing,  sew  the  skin  underneath  and  truss  for  entree  (No.  178).  Lay  the  bird  in  a  buttered  stew- 
pan  covering  the  bottom  with  small  squares  of  bacon;  surround  it  with  the  peeled  and  seasoned  cepes 
heads,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  season  and  moisten  with  a  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a);  baste  the 
turkey  with  butter,  salt  well,  and  place  it  in  the  oven  to  leave  until  the  moistening  is  entirely 
reduced,  then  moisten  again  to  half  its  height  with  more  stock;  boil,  close  the  pan,  and  keep  it 
cooking  in  the  oven  for  three  hours,  pouring  in  a  little  broth  at  times  while  basting  it  occasionally. 
At  the  last  moment  drain  off  the  turkey  to  untruss  and  dress  on  a  dish  surrounding  it  with 
the  cepes  and  bacon.  Strain  the  stock,  skim  it  free  of  fat,  then  thicken  and  reduce  with  some 
good  bechamel,  (No.  409)  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Pour  a  part  of  this  over 
the  turkey  and  the  surplus  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2031),  TUEKEY  TEUITLED  AND  GARNISHED  WITH  BLACK  OLIVES  (Dinde  Truffle  et  Garnie 

d'Olives  Noires). 

Have  a  fine  fat  tender  turkey  weighing  about  eight  or  ten  pounds;  truffle  it  three  days  before- 
hand with  two  pounds  of  leaf  lard,  three  bay  leaves,  thyme,  salt,  pepper,  a  very  little  crushed  and 
chopped  garlic,  and  two  chopped  up  shallots.  Peel  three  pounds  of  truffles,  chop  up  the  parings, 
and  place  all  together  in  a  vessel,  cutting  the  large  truffles  into  pieces.  Strain  the  melted  lard  ovei 
these  and  let  get  cold,  stirring  the  whole  well  together  with  a  gill  of  brandy,  and  season.  Fill  uj 
the  turkey  with  this  and  insert  a  slice  of  thin  fat  pork  between  the  breast  skin  and  the  meat;  place 
on  this  fat  pork  slices  of  truffle.  Truss  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and  wrap  in  buttered  paper;  lay  it  on 
a  cradle  spit(Fig.  116),  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  basting  frequently;  unwrap 
it  fifteen  minutes  before  serving;  salt  and  let  acquire  a  good  color.  Dress  on  a  long  dish, 
garnish  around  with  black  olives,  and  serve  separately  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  taken  from  the 
drippings  well  skimmed  and  strained. 

(2032),  TUEKEY  WITH  WHITE  OYSTER  SAUCE  (Dinde  a  la  Sauce  Blanche  aux  Huitres). 
Truss  an  eight  pound  turkey  to  serve  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  moisten  to 
cover  and  two  inches  higher  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  let  boil;  skim,  season  with  salt,  whole 
peppers,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf;  boil  this  slowly  for  one  hour  or  more  until 
thoroughly  cooked;  when  done,  drain,  untruss,  and  dress  it  either  whole  on  an  oval  rice  border,  or 
cut  up  and  placed  inside  a  rice  border.  Serve  the  turkey  with  a  white  sauce  (No.  562),  or  the  same 
sauce  containing  small  lightly  blanched  and  well  drained  oysters  and  raw  fine  herbs.  A  part  of 
the  sauce  should  be  poured  over  the  turkey,  and  the  remainder  served  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2033),  TTJEZEY  GIBLETS  A  LA  SALAMANDEE  (Abatis  de  Dinde  a  la  Salamandre). 
Bone  the  cleaned  pinions  and  cut  them  into  half  inch  squares;  divide  the  neck  at  every  joint 
and  put  all  the  pieces  into  a  saucepan  with  clarified  butter  (No.  16);  fry  and  besprinkle  with  flour, 
and  cook  again  for  a  few  moments;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  and  some  small  onions.  When  the  meats  are  done  add 
the  liver  after  frying  it  in  butter,  also  some  minced  mushrooms;  suppress  the  parsley  and  onions, 
thicken  the  sauce  with  a  few  egg-yolks,  cream  and  butter,  then  put  back  the  onions.  Butter  a 
baking  dish,  bestrew  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  fill  it  with  the  stewed  giblets;  dredge  bread- 
raspings  and  grated  parmesan  on  top,  pour  over  butter  and  brown  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123), 
then  serve. 

(2034).  TUEKEY  GIBLETS,  PEASANT  STYLE  (Abatis  de  Dinde  a  la  Paysanne). 
These  are  composed  of  the  pinions,  liver,  neck,  legs,  heart,  gizzard  and  head.  Prepare  a  gar- 
nishing of  turnips,  carrots  and  onions;  cut  the  turnips  into  clove  of  garlic  shapes;  the  carrots  are 
to  be  cut  with  a  root  spoon  into  three-quarter  inch  balls,  and  the  small  onions  pared  to  the  same 
size  as  the  carrots,  the  three  to  be  blanched  separately  for  a  few  moments  in  salted  water;  drain  the 
turnips  and  brown  them  in  the  pan  over  a  good  fire  with  butter,  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  drain  the 
carrots,  cook  them  again  in  stock  (No.  194a)  and  let  fall  to  a-  glaze  as  well  as  the  onions.  Take 
the  giblets  from  two  fresh  turkeys,  put  the  livers  aside  and  clean  the  remaining  parts;  scald  them  sim- 
ply to  stiffen,  pare  and  wipe  on  a  cloth.  Cut  in  three  eighths  of  an  inch  squares  six  ounces  of  bacon 


POULTRY.  633 

without  the  rind,  fry  colorless  in  butter  and  when  melted  remove  the  bacon,  leaving  the  fat  in  the 
saucepan,  then  put  in  the  giblets  and  fry  over  a  good  fire  while  stirring  with  a  spoon;  season,  and  after 
the  meats  are  nicely  browned,  besprinkle  with  a  heaping  spoonful  of  flour  and  let  cook  for  a  few 
moments,  continuing  to  stir.  Remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  moisten  the  meats  with  a 
little  stock  (No.  194a)  and  a  little  white  wine;  stir  the  sauce  until  it  comes  to  a  boil  and  cover  the 
saucepan;  cook  the  stew  over  a  good  fire  for  six  minutes  adding  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No. 
123)  and  an  onion.  Pare  the  pieces,  strain  the  sauce  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan  with  the 
sauce  poured  over;  let  cook  for  one  hour  then  put  in  the  carrots,  turnips,  onions  and  bacon. 
Finish  cooking  the  whole  together,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  taking  from  the  fire  put  in 
the  turkey  livers  without  the  gall,  and  finally  skim  the  fat  from  the  sauce;  strain  it  into  a  saucepan, 
let  reduce,  season  to  taste  and  dress  the  pieces  of  giblet  in  a  deep  dish;  surround  with  the  turnips, 
carrots,  onions  and  bacon,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(2035).  TURKEY-GRENADES-A  LA  JULES  VERNE  (Grenades  de  Dinde    k  la  Jules  Verne), 

Raise  and  pare  the  fillets  from  one  or  two  turkeys  weighing  eight  pounds  each;  shape  them 
into  half  hearts  rounded  on  one  side  and  pointed  on  the  other;  remove  the  skin  and  lard  the  tops 
with  small  lardons  of  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  and  then  braise  in  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419) 
being  careful  to  baste  occasionally  and  to  glaze  toward  the  end  so  that  they  assume  a  fine  color. 
Dress  them  on  a  rice  socle  placed  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pour  over  the  strained  and  reduced 
stock,  lay  on  top  croustades  made  of  thin  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  having  them  one  inch  and 
three  quarters  in  diameter  and  filled  with  a  fresh  mushroom  salpicon  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares 
and  fried  in  butter;  then  moisten  with  a  little  Madeira  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze;  garnish  around  with 
half-spherical  quenelles  the  same  circumference  as  the  croustade,  having  it  decorated  with 
truffles.  Serve  in  a  sauce-boat  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  cream  and  butter  just 
at  the  last  moment. 

(2036).  TURKEY  LEGS  ¥ITH  NOODLES,  MILANESE  (Ouisses  de  Dinde  aux  Nouilles  a  la 

Milanaise). 

Bone  the  legs  of  a  young  turkey,  leaving  half  of  the  drumstick  bone  to  use  for  a  handle;  fill  up 
the  boned  parts  with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  62)  into  which  mingle  finely  chopped  truffles  and  mush- 
rooms; sew  up  to  inclose  well  the  dressing.  Line  asautoir  with  bards  of  fat  pork  and  lay  the  stuffed 
legs  on  top;  moisten  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and  braise  slowly,  basting  and  glazing 
until  a  fine  color  is  obtained.  Dress  the  legs  on  a  garnishing  prepared  with  noodles  (No.  142) 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  tomatoes,  parmesan  cheese  and  strips  of  red  beef  tongue  and  mushrooms 
added.  A  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  tomato  essence  accompanies  this  dish,  but  it  is  served 
separately. 

(2037).  TURKEY— BREASTS  OR  FILLETS— A  LA  DONOVAN  (Ailes  ou  Pilots  de  Dinde    a  la 

Donovan). 

Raise  the  fillets  or  breasts  from  two  turkeys,  retaining  the  upper  skin;  fry  them  in  butter 
and  moisten  with  a  little  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  then  allow  it  to  fall  to  a  glaze;  moisten 
once  more  and  cook  very  slowly,  barely  moistened,  so  that  when  done  the  liquid  is  reduced 
to  a  mere  glaze.  Range  the  fillets  in  the  center  of  a  dish  on  a  rice  socle  and  garnish 
around  with  clusters  of  quenelles  molded  with  a  coffeespoon  (No.  155),  mushroom  heads  and  small 
croustades  filled  with  Montglas  (No.  747).  A  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira  sauce  to 
be  served  separately. 

(2038).  TURKEY  WINGS  FRIOASSED  AND  BAKED  (Fricassee  d' Ailerons  de  Dinde  au  Gratin). 

Select  a  dozen  and  a  half  large  young  turkey  wings;  singe,  bone  as  far  as  the  first  joint  and 
remove  the  second  joint;  stuff  them  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  with  fine  cooked  herbs  (No. 
385)  and  sew  them  up.  Line  a  flat  buttered  saucepan  with  onions  and  carrots,  slices  of  fat 
pork  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  range  the  wings  on  top  larded  across  with 
two  rows  of  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52)  or  else  leave  them  unlarded,  and  then  moisten  with 
stock  (No.  194a),  seasoning  with  salt  and  whole  peppers,  cover  over  with  buttered  paper  and  let 
boil.  Push  the  saucepan  into  a  slack  oven  and  three-quarters  of  an  hour  after  add  six  small  onions 
for  each  wing,  previously  blanched  in  boiling  water.  When  the  whole  is  cooked  take  out  both  the 
onions  and  wings,  strain  the  stock  through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  some  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415),  and 
reduce  together;  thicken  the  sauce  with  raw  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter,  pass  it  through  a  tammy, 


634  THE    EPICUREAN. 

season  to  taste.  Put  a  part  of  this  sauce  into  a  deep  china  dish  capable  of  being  placed  in  the 
oven,  lay  the  wings  and  onions  on  top,  and  pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  sauce;  bestrew  with 
bread-crumbs  and  parmesan  and  let  acquire  a  good  color  while  in  the  oven;  drain  and  serve  the 
dish  on  another  covered  with  a  folded  napkin. 

(2039).  TURKEY  WINGS  WITH  CELERY  AND  CHESTNUTS  (Ailerons  de  Dinde  au  C61eri  et  am 

Marions). 

Take  twelve  scalded  and  very  white  wings  without  any  pin  feathers  whatever,  singe  and  bone 
all  the  fleshy  first  part,  then  soak  them.  Line  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  lay  on  the  wings 
and  moisten  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  placing  more  fat  pork  on  top.  For  young  turkey  wings 
it  will  take  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  but  when  the  birds  begin  to  get  harder  the  wings  require 
one  hour  or  more  cooking.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  drain  well  and  range  them  in  a  dish,  strain, 
skim  and  reduce  the  stock,  clarify,  strain  once  more  through  a  napkin.  Havo  some  chestnuts 
braised  with  celery  prepared  as  follows:  Put  some  skinned  chestnuts  into  a  saucepan  with  as  much 
celery  stalks  cut  in  inch  and  a  quarter  squares,  having  it  already  well  blanched;  moisten  with  stock 
(No.  194a)  and  cook  on  a  slow  fire  until  both  chestnuts  and  celery  can  crush  easily  under  a  pres- 
sure. Reduce  in  a  sautior  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  the  stock  and  pour  it  over  the 
chestnuts,  then  finish  cooking  slowly,  season  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  wings  when  ready. 

(2040.)  TURKEY  WINGS  WITH  RISOT— STUFFED  (Ailerons  de  Dinde  Farcis  au  Risot). 

Choose  two  dozen  large  turkey  wings;  singe  and  bone  as  far  as  the  second  joint,  leaving  on 
the  tip;  fill  up  the  empty  space  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  with  fine  herbs  and  sew  up  the 
opening  with  thread;  scald  them  in  boiling  water  to  stiffen,  the  skin  and  refresh  to  pare;  range 
them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fragments  of  salt  pork,  onions  and  roots,  salt  over  and  moisten  to 
half  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a);  let  fall  to  a  glaze  and  remoisten  to  their  height  with  more 
broth  and  a  little  white  wine,  cover  with  fat  pork  and  finish  to  cook  very  slowly.  Apart  from  this 
prepare  a  good  risot  with  half  a  pound  of  rice  and  some  stock  (No.  194a);  when  done  remove  and 
finish  with  butter,  parmesan  cheese  and  two  spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549).  Drain  the 
wings,  untruss  and  cut  off  the  tips;  dress  the  risot  in  a  vegetable  dish  and  the  wings  on  top,  pour 
some  of  their  own  stock  over  after  skimming  and  reducing  it  well  and  serve  remainder  in  a  sauce- 
boat. 

(2041).  TURKEY  GOBBLER  STUFFED  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Dindon  Farci  aux  Marrons). 
The  gobbler  turkey  is  a  large-sized  bird  having  a  medium  convex  shaped  beak  and  is  specially 
known  by  the  erectile  mammilated  carnucle  or  fleshy  membrane  covering  its  head  and  extending 
over  a  part  of  the  beak  and  neck.  The  turkey's  tail  is  provided  with  fourteen  distinct  feathers  that 
can  be  raised  in  such  a  manner  as  to  form  a  semi-wheel.  Its  plumage  is  of  a  fine  black  or  green- 
ish color  mingled  with  gray  and  white;  they  usually  weigh  from  six  to  eighteen  pounds.  Draw, 
singe,  pare,  truss  and  remove  the  breastbone  from  a  young  gobbler  turkey,  the  same  as  for  roast- 
ing. Chop  up  ten  ounces  of  kernel  of  veal  and  sixteen  ounces  of  pig's  leaf  lard,  both  to  be  chopped 
separately  then  mixed  together;  season  with  salt  and  spice,  adding  a  little  shallot  and  the  liver  both 
well  chopped.  Put  this  into  a  mortar  with  a  gill  of  stock  (No.  194a),  pound  well,  remove  and  place 
in  a  sautoir  to  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  let  cool  and  stir  in  sixty  cooked  chestnuts;  stuff  the  turkey 
with  this  roast,  dress  and  pour  over  a  little  good  gravy  (No.  404). 

(2042).  SPRING  OR  YOUNG  TURKEY,  PUREE  OF  ARTICHOKES-LARDED  AND  ROASTED 
(Dindonneau  Pique"  et  Roti  a  la  Pnre"e  d'Artichauts). 

A  spring  turkey  by  its  delicate  flesh  is  considered  one  of  the  most  desirable  meats,  especially  if 
stuffed  with  peeled  Perigord  truffles.  The  spit  (Fig.  118)  is  the  only  manner  worthy  of  cooking  this 
bird;  it  is  at  its  best  when  two  or  three  months  old.  Dress  two  young  turkeys,  each  one  to  weigh  about 
six  pounds;  truss  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and  singe  them  and  lard  the  breasts  with  two  rows  of 
larding  pork  on  each  fillet  and  two  rows  on  each  leg  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
one  hour  before  serving  roast  them  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  basting  frequently  with  butter? 
when  done  and  of  a  fine  color,  salt  them  over  and  remove  on  a  dish  to  untruss  and  carve, 
first  detaching  the  two  legs  and  fillet  pieces;  cut  each  of  these  in  pieces,  then  glaze  and  dress. 
Serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  good  gravy  and  a  vegetable  dish  of  puree  of  artichokes 
(No.  704). 


635 

(2043).  SPRING  TURKEY  WITH  TURNIPS— WINGS  (Pilets  ou  Ailes  de  Dindonneau  aux  Navets). 
Procure  a  spring  turkey  of  about  eight  pounds;  draw,  singe  and  clean  it  well,  suppressing  all 
its  pin  feathers,  remove  the  breasts  with  the  skin  and  pinion  bone  attached;  fry  in  butter 
some  carrots,  onions,  lean  salt  pork,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  then  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a). 
Line  a  flat  saucepan  or  sautoir  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  strain  the  above  stock  and  pour  in  a  third 
part  of  it,  add  the  fillets,  and  let  the  liquid  reduce  to  a  glaze,  then  add  another  third  part  and  set 
the  pan  in  the  oven  to  cook  while  basting  plentifully  and  adding  more  stock  as  fast  as  it  reduces, 
finally  glazing  to  a  beautiful  color.  Aside  from  this  blanch  and  cook  some  turnips  in  stock  and 
sugar  having  just  sufficient  moisture  that  when  done  they  have  fallen  to  a  glaze;  they  should 
first  be  cut  into  cork-shaped  pieces  with  square  angles.  After  they  are  finished  cooking,  put  in  a 
little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  fresh  butter;  strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat  and  reduce  it  with 
as  much  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  thickening  just  when  ready  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  in  stock, 
and  finishing  by  stirring  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Lay  the  breasts  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  with 
the  turnips  around  and  cover  the  whole  with  the  sauce. 

;2044).  SPRING  TURKEY  WITH  WATER-ORESS-ROASTED  OR  BROILED  (Dindonneau  Roti 

ou  GrillS  au  Cresson). 

Draw  a  young  spring  turkey,  singe  and  truss,  bard  it  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  let  roast 
for  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  at  a  moderate,  but  well  regulated  fire,  basting  it  over  fre- 
quently with  butter,  at  the  last  moment  salt  it  over,  remove,  untruss  and  lay  it  on  an  oval  dish 
pouring  over  a  little  of  the  dripping-pan  fat  well  skimmed  and  strained  through  a  sieve.  Surround 
it  with  water-cress  seasoned  with  salt  and  vinegar. 

Broiled  Spring  Turkey.—  Should  it  be  a  small  young  one,  then  prepare  it  the  same  as  a 
chicken,  the  time  of  cooking  depending  upon  its  size;  when  done  and  of  a  fine  color,  dress  on  a 
hot  dish  and  pour  over  some  lightly  melted  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(2045).  PAUPIETTES  OF  YOUNG  TURKEY,  SOUVENIR  (Paupiettes  de  Dindonneau  au  Souvenir). 
Kemove  the  nerves  from  the  minion  fillets,  beat  them  lightly  and  cut  into  oblongs,  season  and 
spread  over  the  surface  a  layer  of  well  seasoned  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  into  which  has  been 
mixed  some  chopped  truffles,  roll   them   cork-shaped   and  place   in 
buttered   tin    paupiette  rings   ranged  on  a   buttered  baking  sheet 
having  the  bottoms  of  the  rings  covered  with  croutons  of  bread  fried 
on  one  side  only  and  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  rings,  the  unfried 
side  resting  on  the  buttered  sheet;  on  top  of  each  place  a  channeled 
mushroom  head  (No.  118)  and  cover  this  with  a  bard  of  fat  pork, 
then  cook  in  a  slack  oven.     Have  braised  as  many  turkey  legs  as  FIG.  388. 

there  are  paupiettes  and  when  done  to  perfection,  drain  and  cut  them 

into  small  pieces;  enclose  each  one  of  these  in  some  quenelle  forcemeat  with  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385);  bread-crumb,  dip  in  eggs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color,  then  glaze.  Dress  the  paupiettes  in  a 
circle,  fill  the  center  with  the  fried  legs  and  serve  with  a  separate  cream  soubise  sauce  (No.  543). 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


G-A.ME  (Gibier). 


(2046).  BEAE  STEAKS  BKOILED  (Tranches  d'Ours  Grilles). 

Bear's  meat  when  young  can  be  broiled  and  after  it  is  cooked,  has  much  the  same  flavor  as 
beef.  Cut  some  slices  from  off  the  thigh,  season  with  salt  and  coat  over  with  oil,  then  broil;  when 
done  dress  on  a  sharp  sauce  (No.  538)  with  grated  horseradish  added. 

(2047),  BLACKBIRDS  A  LA  DEGEANGE  (Merles  a  la  Degrange). 

Procure  eight  blackbirds,  draw  and  singe,  suppress  the  feet  and  necks.  Fry  in  butter  some 
carrots,  onions,  ham  and  fat  pork  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares,  also  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf 
and  six  chicken  livers;  when  well  cooked,  lay  aside  to  cool,  then  pound  into  a  pulp  with  a  little 
bread-crumb  and  seasoning;  press  this  through  a  sieve  and  use  this  forcemeat  for  filling  the  black- 
birds; fry  them  in  butter,  drain  it  off  and  replace  it  by  a  little  glaze  (No.  402),  lemon  juice,  chopped 
truffles,  parsley  and  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Dress  the  birds  inside  a  rice  border  finished 
with  butter  and  parmesan  cheese,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  birds. 

(2048).  BOAE  (WILD  PIG)  TENDEELOINS  EOASTED,  HAUNCH,  EOBEET  SAUCE,  OUTLETS 
SAUTED  (Sanglier  (Cochon  Sauvage)  Ouissot  Sauce  Eobert,  Filets  Eotis  Cotelettes  Sautees), 

Only  young 'ones  can  be  used.  They  can  be  roasted  without  marinating,  and  as  the  meats  are 
covered  with  fat  it  is  useless  to  lard  them.  Roasted  pieces  are  served  from  the  haunch,  saddle, 
tenderloin  or  loin,  basted  with  its  own  gravy  or  else  a  very  highly  seasoned  sauce. 

For  the  Haunch. — After  the  boar  is  singed  and  well  trimmed,  scald  it  in  boiling  water,  then 
saw  off  the  end  or  handle  bone  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  knuckle  bone  and  marinate  in  a  cooked 
cold  marinade  (No.  114)  or  eight  days;  drain,  wipe  and  wrap  it  in  strong  sheets  of  buttered  paper, 
including  the  vegetables  and  marinade;  lay  it  on  a  cradle  spit  (No.  116)  or  in  the  oven  to  roast  for 
one  hour  and  a  half,  more  or  less  according  to  the  size  of  the  haunch  or  leg,  being  careful  to 
baste  every  twenty  minutes  with  the  grease  from  the  dripping  pan.  Ten  minutes  before  serving 
unwrap  and  remove  the  buttered  paper,  also  the  cracknel;  glaze  the  haunch  in  the  oven  and  place 
it  on  a  dish  to  trim  with  a  fancy  frill  (No.  10),  pour  gravy  (No.  404)  around  and  serve  a 
Eobert  sauce  (No.  533)  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Boar's  Tenderloins  are  prepared  by  paring,  larding,  marinating  and  roasting,  then  dressing  on 
croutons  and  serving  with  shallot  and  fine  herb  sauce  (No.  537). 

The  Cutlets  are  pared  and  sauted  drained  and  trimmed  with  frills  (No.  10),  afterward  dressed 
in  a  circle;  drain  the  fat  from  the  pan,  detach  the  glaze  with  white  wine  and  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414),  reduce;  then  strain  it  through  a  tammy  and  pour  it  in  the  middle  of  the  cutlets. 

(2049).  YOUNG  WILD  BOAE-QUAETEE-GAENISHED  WITH  OUTLETS  AND  BREASTS 
MAEINADE  SAUCE  (Quartier  de  Marcassin  Garni  de  Cotelettes  et  de  Poitrines,  Sauce 
Marinade). 

Have  a  quarter  of  young  wild  boar  very  tender;  suppress  the  rind  and  marinate  in  a  cooked 
cold  marinade  (No.  114)  for  twenty-four  hours;  drain  and  wrap  in  several  sheets  of  strong  buttered 
paper.  Put  it  in  a  roasting  pan  and  cook  it  in  the  oven.  Have  the  breasts  braised,  and  when 
done  bone  and  lay  them  under  a  light  weight  to  get  cold,  then  cut  them  into  eight  pieces  paring 
each  one  to  the  shape  of  a  half  heart,  then  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  till  hot  and  of  a 
fine  golden  color.  Trim  eight  cutlets,  marinate  them  for  twenty-four  hours,  drain,  wipe  and  saute 
with  clarified  butter.  Dress  the  breasts  on  one  side  of  the  quarter  and  the  cutlets  on  the  other, 
glaze  them  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  cover  the  quarter  with  a  little  marinade  sauce  (No.  496), 
serve  more  of  it  separately  with  the  boar,  trimming  the  handle  of  the  leg  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10) 

(637) 


638  TFIE    EPICUREAN. 

(2050).  BOAE  SADDLE  AND  QUAETEE— EOASTED  (Selles  et  Quartiers  de  Sanglier    Eotis). 

Before  roasting  a  saddle  or  quarter  of  boar  is  better  to  be  sure  that  the  animal  is  a  very 
young  one.  The  saddle  tenderloin  must  not  be  pared  as  for  venison,  neither  are  the  quarters 
pared;  simply  steep  the  pieces  of  meat  for  twenty-four  hours  in  a  cooked  and  cold  marinade 
(No.  114).  They  are  to  be  roasted  in  a  very  deep  pan  lined  with  fragments  of  salt  pork  and  cut  up 
roots,  then  basted  over  with  butter.  For  a  young  boar  it  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a  quarter 
to  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven.  After  removing  it  from  the  fire,  dress  it  on  a  dish 
and  unglaze  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  marinade;  reduce  the  liquid  for  a 
few  moments,  then  strain,  skim  off  the  fat  and  thicken  the  sauce  either  with  some  sauce  or 
kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat.  "With  roast  boar  a  light  acidulated  sauce  is 
usually  served,  prepared  with  a  little  of  its  marinade;  a  saucerful  of  currant  jelly  is  also  its  usual 
accompaniment. 

(2051),  DOE  BIEDS  EOASTED  AND  BEOILED  (Oourlis  Eotis  et  Grille's). 
Small  doe  birds  are  the  size  of  a  large  plover,  having  a  long  bent  beak.  It  is  a  delicate  game 
being  slightly  analagous  to  the  plover;  let  set  till  tender  then  pick,  singe  and  suppress  the  gizzard 
and  crop  without  emptying  out  the  insides.  Truss  them  bent  under  like  the  plovers  (No.  2119) 
bard  over  with  very  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  cook  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  or  else  broil; 
serve  on  canapes  with  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separate.  Doe  birds  can  be  prepared  in  several  ways, 
proceeding  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  plovers. 

(2052)  BLACKHEAD  DUCKS  EOASTED  OE  BEOILED  (Canards  Sauvages  a  Tete  Noire  Eotis  ou 

Grille's). 

Pick  the  feathers  from  two  blackhead  ducks,  and  truss  as  described  (No.  179);  ^asten  them 
on  the  spit  then  cook  the  ducks,  if  fine  and  large  for  fourteen  or  eighteen  minutes  before  a  bright 
fire.  Untruss  and  serve  them  to  the  guests  after  cutting  them  up  on  very  hot  plates;  serve  currant 
jelly  at  the  same  time.  For  broiled  blackheads  see  broiled  canvasback  ducks  (No.  2054). 

(2053).  BEANT  DUCKS  WITH  CAULIFLOWEE  VILLEEOI-EOASTED  (Canards  Sauvages  Brant 

Eotis  aux  Chouxflenrs  Villeroi). 

Brant  ducks  are  prepared  the  same  as  blackhead  ducks  and  when  roasted,  dress  them  on  a 
long  dish:  garnish  around  with  cauliflowers  a  la  Villeroi  (No.  2716),  serving  a  separate  poivrade 
sauce  (No.  522)  into  which  incorporate  half  as  much  fresh  butter. 

(2054).  OANVASBACK  DUCKS  BEOILED  (Canards  Sauvages  Canvasback  Grille's). 
Clean  nicely  and  split  through  the  whole  length  of  the  back,  open  entirely  to  have  them  per- 
fectly flat,  wipe,  trim  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  coat  over  with  oil  and  put  them  inside  a 
double  boiler  sufficiently  thick  not  to  have  them  squeezed  too  tight;  broil  over  a  brisk  fire  for  eight 
or  ten  minutes  and  as  soon  as  done,  dress  on  a  buttered  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  into  which 
has  been  added  butter,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2055).  OANVASBAOK  DUCKS  EOASTED  GAENISHED  WITH  HOMINY  OE  SAMP  (Canards 

Sauvages  Canvas  Back  Eotis  Garnis  Avec  Hominy  ou  Samp). 

Pick  the  feathers  from  some  nice  Havre-de-Grace  canvasback  ducks,  each  one  to  weigh  three 
pounds,  prepare  them  for  roasting  as  described  (No.  179),  lay  them  on  a  spit  to  roast  before  a 


FIG.  389. 


brisk  fire  for  sixteen  to  twenty  minutes,  more  jr  less  according  to  their  size;  untruss  and  dress  on 
to  a  very  hot  dish,  surround  with  squares  of  hominy  dipped  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  then 
fried,  present  them  whole  to  the  guests,  remove  to  carve  and  place  on  very  hot  plates  with  a  piece 
of  hominy  for  each  person. 


G^AME. 


639 


FIG.  390. 

Woodcock— (Be"casse), 


FIG.  391. 

Quail-(Caille). 


FIG.  392. 
Plover— (Pluvier). 


FIG.  393. 

English  Snipe— (BScassine  Anglaise). 


FIG.  394. 

Prairie  Hen  (Grouse)— (Te"tras). 


FIG.  395. 

Ptarmigan— (Poule  de  Neige). 


640  T.HE    EPICUREAN. 

Hominy  and  Samp  (Crushed  Corn). — Cook  some  hominy  in  boiling  salted  water,  spread  it  on 
a  baking  sheet  in  a  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  layer  and  when  cold  cut  it  into  oblongs  one 
inch  wide  by  two  and  a  half  inches  long,  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine 
color,  then  drain,  salt  and  dress  on  folded  napkins.  Samp  is  a  species  of  Indian  corn  crushed  to 
the  size  of  small  peas;  it  should  be  soaked  in  cold  water  for  several  hours,  then  cooked  in  a  covered 
saucepan  with  water,  salt  and  butter  for  three  hours,  placed  in  a  slack  oven  after  it  has  boiled  up 
once.  Put  it  to  cool  on  a  dish,  divide  it  into  inch  and  three-quarters  balls,  flatten,  keeping  them 
thin  on  the  edges  and  thick  in  the  center,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  nicely  to  a  fine  color 

(2056).  SALMIS  OF  OANVASBAOK  DUOKS  (Salmis  de  Canards  Sauvages,  Canvasback). 
Cook  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  two  ducks  prepared  for  roasting  (No.  179);  when  nearly 
done,  untruss  and  divide  each  one  into  six  pieces,  cutting  the  breast  in  four  and  legs  in  two.  (The 
legs  are  generally  fibrous  and  tough.)  Put  all  the  pieces  in  a  saucepan  with  their  own  blood  and  keep 
them  warm  in  a  bain-marie,  having  a  lid  on  top.  Put  the  fragments  of  the  ducks,  broken  in  pieces 
into  another  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  red  Bordeaux  wine,  half  a  shallot  and  a  pinch  of  mignonette, 
let  boil  slowly  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  half,  then  pass  it  through  a  colander  into  a  sauteing  dish, 
adding  the  same  quantity  of  thick  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  reduce  the  whole  until  consistent, 
pass  it  once  more  through  a  tammy  and  finish  by  incorporating  therein  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  sweet 
oil  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  cut  up  ducks  and  dress  on 
the  center  of  a  dish,  garnish  around  with  half  heart  croutons  hollowed  out  in  the  center  and  filled 
with  minced  celery  parboiled  and  cooked  in  consomme  (No.  189),  cover  with  half -glaze  and  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  413). 

(2057).    OANVASBAOK  DUOKS,  BIGARADE  SAUCE-BREASTS  (Filets  de  Canard  Sauvages,  Oan- 

vasback,  Sauce  BigaradeX 

Prepare  and  cook  the  canvasback  ducks  the  same  as  roasted  (No.  2055) ;  when  still  very  rare, 
remove  and  raise  the  two  fillets  and  divide  each  one  into  three  pieces.  Put  them  in  a  chafing 
dish  with  a  little  melted  game  glaze  (No.  398),  as  much  butter  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
roll  them  well  in  this  to  glaze  and  dress  on  a  bigarade  sauce  (No.  435). 

<2058).  CANVASBACK  DUCKS  WITH  ORANGE  JUICE,  PORT  WINE  AND  CURRANT  SAUCE 
—BREASTS  (Pilets  de  Canards  Sauvages,  Oanvasback,  au  Jus  d'Orange  a  la  Sauce  Porto 
et  a  la  Gele"e  de  Groseilles). 

Roast  the  ducks  the  same  as  for  roasting  (No.  2055)  keeping  them  very  rare;  raise  the  two 
fillets,  one  from  each  side  of  the  breast  and  cut  each  one  into  two  lengthwise  pieces;  put  them  in  a 
chafing  dish,  pour  over  some  bitter  orange  juice,  also  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  brown 
poivrade  sauce  (No  522);  serve  separately  a  sauce  made  with  currant  jelly  dissolved  in  port  wine, 
heating  it  in  a  bain-marie,  then  strained  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  surround  with  half-heart- 
shaped  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(2059).  MALLARD  DUOKS  ROASTED  AND  BROILED-(Canards  Sauvages,  Mallard  Rotis  et  Grille's). 
Draw  two  singed  and  clean  Mallard  ducks,  wipe  out  the  insides  with  a  cloth  and  fill  the  empty 
space  with  some  bread  dressing  combined  with  butter  or  chopped  suet,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley, 
and  a  few  finely  sliced  green  celery  leaves,  adding  egg-yolks;  truss  (No.  179),  and  run  a  skewer 
through  to  fasten  them  on  the  spit,  then  roast  basting  over  with  melted  butter  or  oil.  The  fire 
should  be  quite  brisk,  and  if  so,  twenty  minutes  will  be  sufficient  to  cook  them.  Dish  them  up 
with  sliced  lemons  around,  and  serve  the  gravy  separately. 

•Broiled. — Mallard  ducks  are  broiled  and  dressed  the  same  as  canvasback,  the  only  difference 
to  be  observed  is  perhaps  a  modification  in  the  time  of  cooking. 

(2060).  MALLARD  DUOKS  WITH  CELERY  HALF-GLAZE-ROASTED  (Canards  Sauvages,  Mallard 

Rotis  au  Celeri  Demi-Glace). 

Truss  some  mallard  ducks  for  roasting  (No.  179),  and  when  cooked  dish  up  as  the  others.  They 
maybe  served  either  whole  or  else  cut  up  into  six  pieces  or  the  fillets  only  it  they  be  whole;  place 
the  garnishing  around;  should  they  be  dressed  in  a  circle  then  fill  in  the  center  with  a  garnishing 
composed  of  cardoons  or  celery  cut  in  half  inch  squares,  blanched  and  cooked  with  chopped  beef 
marrow  also  blanched,  and  afterward  drained;  put  them  into  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413), 
and  let  simmer  for  a  few  moments. 


G-AME.  641 

(2061).  SALMIS  OF  MALLARD  DUCKS  WITH  MADEIEA  (Salmis  de  Canards  Sauvages,  Mallard 

au  Madere), 

Out  two  roasted  wild  ducks  into  six  pieces;  remove  the  skin  and  part  of  the  bones,  then  divide 
the  breasts  and  legs,  suppressing  the  feet,  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir  keeping  it  covered. 
Chop  up  the  carcass,  bones,  and  parings;  fry  a  mirepoix  (No.  419),  and  minced  shallots  with 
aromatic  herbs,  add  to  this  the  chopped  carcasses  and  moisten  with  two  or  three  gills  of  red  wine 
previously  boiled  in  a  copper  pan,  and  reduce  it  to  three-quarters;  again  moisten  to  their  height 
with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  continue  to  cook  for  twenty  minutes;  strain  this  through  a  tammy, 
remove  the  fat  and  return  it  to  the  fire  and  reduce,  thickening  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413), 
arid  finishing  with  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  As  soon  as  it  is  completed,  strain  it  over  the 
pieces  of  duck,  and  heat  in  a  bain-marie  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Dress  the  pieces  on  a  dish, 
cover  over  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  the  remainder  separately;  surround  with  thin  round 
crusts  masked  on  one  side  with  baked  liver  forcemeat  (No.  81),  and  serve. 

(2062).  EEDHEAD  DUCKS  A  LA  BAREDA  (Canards  Sauvages  a  Tete  Rouge  a  la  Bare'da). 
These  ducks  are  first  to  be  prepared  the  same  as  for  roasting;  put  them  in  a  pan,  cover  with 
good  fat  and  roast  them  in  the  oven;  add  one  gill  of  vinegar,  a  spoonful  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  mignonette  pepper;  baste  the  birds  several  times  while  cooking  and  salt  over  a  few  moments 


FIG.  396. 

before  removing  from  the  oven.  Untruss  and  strain  the  stock,  suppress  all  the  fat,  and  place 
it  in  a  sauce-pan  with  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  currant  jelly,  mixing  the  whole  well  together, 
pass  through  a  sieve.  Make  a  sour  apple  marmalade,  drain  properly  and  press  it  through  a  very 
fine  sieve,  stir  in  some  unsweetened  whipped  cream;  serve  these  two  sauces  separately  at  the 
same  time  as  the  birds. 

(2063).  REDHEAD  DUCKS,  ROASTED  AND  BROILED  (Canards  Sauvages  a  Tete  Rouge  Rotis  ou 

Grille's), 

Prepare  the  ducks  as  for  No.  2059,  lay  them  on  the  spit  to  roast  for  fourteen  to  eighteen 
minutes,  more  or  less  according  to  their  weight;  salt  over,  remove  from  the  spit  and  untruss  and 
serve  on  a  very  hot  dish,  or  they  can  be  roasted  in  the  oven,  putting  them  into  a  baking  pan;  pour 
a  little  fat  over  and  set  them  in  a  hot  oven;  they  will  take  a  few  minutes  longer  to  cook  this  way, 
then  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish.  Hand  round  separately  on  a  folded  napkin  some  hominy  or  samp 
the  same  as  for  canvasback  ducks  (No.  2055).  Out  up  the  ducks  and  serve  on  very  hot  plates. 
Four  slices  can  be  taken  from  each  duck,  two  on  each  fillet  and  one  or  two  of  these  served  to  one 
guest. 

Broiled. — Have  them  prepared  the  same  as  the  canvasback  duck  (No.  2054),  then  cook  and 
dress  exactly  the  same. 

(2064),  REDHEAD  DUCKS  WITH  PRIED  OELERY(  Canards  Sauvages  a  Tete  Rouge  au  Oeleri  frit). 
Prepare  and  cook  two  redhead  ducks  the  same  as  for  roasting  (No.  2063);  dress  and  garnish 
around  with  celery  prepared  in  two  different  ways.  From  four  celery  stalks,  remove  the  outer 
branches,  using  only  the  white  and  tender  ones;  cut  into  four  inch  lengths  half  of  the  largest 
branches  and  blanch  them  as  well  as  the  four  roots,  peeled  and  cut  in  eight  pieces  then  nicely 
pared;  drain  and  put  into  a  saucepan  and  cover  to  their  height  with  a  light  ten  degree  syrup;  cook 


642  THE    EPICUREAN. 

on  a  slow  fire,  drain  through  a  strainer  and  dip  each  separate  piece  into  frying  batter  (No.  137) 
and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color,  ranging  them  afterward  on  each  side  of  the  ducks.  Cut  the 
remainder  or  tender  stalks  lengthwise  into  fillets  the  size  of  a  straw,  dip  them  in  frying  batter, 
then  fry  slowly  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  salt  over  and  use  them  for  decorating  the  ends  of  the  dish. 
Serve  separately  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  white  wine  pressing  into  it  the  strained 
juice  of  an  orange. 

(2065).  RUDDY  DUCKS  A  LA  HAMILTON  (Canards  Sauvages,  Ruddy  &  la  Hamilton). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  ducks  the  same  as  for  roasted  (No.  2066);  detach  the  fillets  without 
taking  off  the  skin  and  range  them  at  once  in  a  sautoir,  pour  over  some  reduced  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  and  a  little  good  sherry;  roll  them  in  this  off  the  fire  and  strain  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over. 
Dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  on  a  poached  and  unmolded  forcemeat  border  placed  on  a  dish,  and  fill 
the  insides  with  a  garnishing  of  truffles,  mushrooms,  olives  and  cut  up  foies-gras;  cover 
both  fillets  and  garnishing  lightly  with  the  sauce  and  serve  more  of  it  separately  after  strain- 
ing it. 

(2066).  RUDDY  DUCKS,  ROASTED  (Canards  Sauvages,  Ruddy  Rotis). 

This  duck  is  roasted  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven.  Pick  and  take  off  all  the  down;  singe, 
wipe  and  draw,  then  cut  off  the  wings  near  the  body,  suppress  the  necks,  turn  in  the  feet  and 
truss,  the  same  as  canvasback  (No.  179).  Put  them  to  roast  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  for  twelve  to 
fifteen  minutes  according  to  the  heat  of  the  fire  and  the  size  of  the  duck,  keeping  them  rare;  take 
them  off  and  serve  with  a  little  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  poured  over  and  garnish  with  quartered 
lemons;  serve. 

(2067).  TEAL  DUCKS,  BROILED  (Canards  Sauvages,  Sarcelles  Grilles). 

Split  the  teal  duck,  lengthwise  in  two  through  the  back  after  cleaning  well;  pare  and  season 
with  salt  and  mignonette;  coat  over  with  oil  and  place  in  a  double  broiler  without  pressing  too  tight. 
Broil  over  a  brisk  fire  and  serve  on  a  good,  rich  gravy  (No.  404)  surrounded  by  slices  of  lemon. 

(2068).  TEAL  DUCKS,  ROASTED  (Canards  Sauvages,  Sarcelles  Rotis). 

This  is  a  small  kind  of  wild  duck,  the  meat  being  quite  nutritious  and  of  an  excellent  flavor  the 
blue  wings  are  preferred  to  the  green.  Prepare  the  teal  (No.  179),  roast  before  a  brisk  fire  for  ten 


FIG.  397. 

to  fifteen,  minutes  either  on  the  spit  or  allow  the  same  time  in  the  oven.  When  done  to  perfection 
salt  over,  untruss  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  either  whole  or  carved,  each  one  to  be  divided  in  four 
pieces.  Dress  the  legs  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  the  breasts  over,  glaze,  then  pour  into  the 
bottom  a  little  good  gravy  (No.  404);  surround  the  birds  with  slices  of  lemon  cut  in  two  through 
the  center. 

(2069).  TEAL  DUCKS  A  LA  PONTCHARTRAIN,  BREASTS  (Filets  de  Canards  Sauvages, 

Sarcelles  k  la  Pontchartrain). 

Lift  the  breasts  from  four  very  plump  raw  teal  ducks;  keep  on  the  skin  and  score  this  lightly; 
marinate  these  in  oil  with  cut  up  chives,  parsley  leaves,  salt,  mignonette  and  lemon  juice;  let  them 
remain  in  this  for  two  hours  and  just  when  ready  to  serve,  pour  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  sau- 


G-AME.  043 

toir,  heat  it  up  and  put  in  the  breasts;  place  it  on  a  good  fire,  turning  the  pieces  over  when  done 
on  one  side;  drain  and  dress  in  a  circle  with  half  heart-shaped  croutons  between  each  piece,  having 
them  the  same  size  as  the  breasts;  cover  the  whole  with  a  well-reduced  buttered  espagnole  sauce, 
(No.  414)  straining  into  it  the  juice  of  an  orange.  They  can  also  be  broiled,  after  scoring, 
seasoning  and  coating  over  with  oil,  then  put  into  a  double  broiler  without  pressing  and  when 
cooked  dress  in  a  circle  with  croutons  between  each  fillet  and  the  same  sauce  as  above  poured  over 
the  whole. 

(2070),  SALMIS  OP  TEAL  DUCKS  A  LA  HARRISON  (Salmis  de  Canards  Sauvages,  Sarcelles  a  la 

Harrison). 

Koast  some  teal  ducks  as  for  No.  2068.  Fry  a  shallot  lightly  in  butter  without  acquiring  color; 
add  some  raw  chopped  mushrooms,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  moisten  with  champagne  and 
reduce  with  the  following  fumet  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  to  a  proper  consistency.  Break 
up  the  carcasses  of  the  birds,  moisten  these  with  broth  (No.  194a)  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
strain  forcibly;  add  to  it  some  cooked  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares  and  chopped 
parsley.  The  ducks  must  be  cut  in  four  pieces  each,  namely:  two  legs,  two  wings,  each  of  these  to 
be  cut  lengthwise;  dress,  mix  the  gravy  and  sauce  together,  pour  it  over  and  surround  with  heart- 
shaped  croutons,  then  serve. 

(2071).  GROUSE,  PRAIRIE  HENS  OK  PTARMIGAN,  BROILED  (T6tras,  Poules  de  Prairie  ou  de 

Neige  Grille's). 

There  are  two  ways  of  preparing  these  birds  for  broiling;  the  first,  or  the  one  most  generally 
employed  is  to  cut  off  the  feet  at  the  first  joint,  also  the  neck,  leaving  the  throat  skin  on  as  long  as 
possible;  split  the  grouse  lengthwise  through  the  back  to  open  it  entirely;  remove  the  breastbones, 
fatten  lightly  and  season  with  salt;  dip  them  in  oil  and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  dress  on 
toast  with  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

Another  Way  is  after  the  grouse  is  picked,  drawn  and  singed,  truss  with  the  legs  thrust 
inside,  and  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two,  beat  lightly,  pare  neatly,  season  and  dip  in  melted  butter, 
then  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  in  a  double  broiler  on  a  moderate  fire,  turning  them  when 
well  done  on  one  side;  dressed  grouse  can  be  cooked  in  either  of  these  ways,  being  careful  not  to 
have  the  broiler  too  tight,  and  when  dressed  they  may  be  covered  with  maltre  d'hotel  butter  (No. 
581)  or  else  have  a  cold  tartar  sauce  (No.  631)  served  separately. 

(2072).  GROUSE  OR  PRAIRIE  HENS  ROASTED  WITH  GRAVY,  FRIED  BREAD-CRUMBS  OR 
APPLE  SAUCE  (Te"tras  ou  Poules  de  Prairie  Rotis  au  Jus,  Mie  de  Pain  Frite  ou  Sauce  aux  Pommes). 

Select  some  grouse  and  after  picking,  singeing  and  drawing,  truss  them  without  barding  for 
roasting  (No.  179),  run  a  skewer  through  and  fasten  this  firmly  to  the  spit,  then  roast  before  a  good 
fire  or  they  may  be  put  in  a  baking  pan,  smeared  over  with  fat  and  roasted  in  the  oven,  but  in  either 
case  they  need  basting  frequently  with  melted  butter.  When  almost  done,  salt  them  over  and  as 
soon  as  they  are  finished  (which  will  take  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes),  like  all  black  meats 
these  should  be  cooked  rare,  untruss  and  dress  on  a  crouton  of  bread  cut  so  that  they  stand  plumb 
on  it,  and  serve  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  separately  or  replace  it  by  apple  sauce  (No.  428),  served 
the  same,  or  a  bread  sauce  (No.  438),  may  be  substituted  or  surround  with  fried  bread-crumbs 
prepared  as  follows:  Brown  some  slices  of  bread  in  the  oven  and  when  of  a  good  color  and  very 
dry,  pound  and  pass  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  mix  these  crumbs  with  a  little  butter,  put  it  into 
a  sautoir  and  set  in  the  oven  to  fry  until  of  a  nice  color. 

(2073).  GROUSE  OR  PRAIRIE  HENS  A  LA   TZARINA— BREASTS  (Filets  de  Te~tras  ou  de  Gelk 

nottesa  la  Tzarine). 

Remove  the  breasts  from  six  fresh  grouse  or  prairie  hens,  suppress  the  minion  fillets  and  pare 
the  larger  ones  prettily  the  same  as  chicken  fillets,  taking  off  all  the  skin;  beat  down  to  flatten  and 
season  with  salt,  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  cold  clarified  butter  and  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper.  With  the  minion  fillets,  and  the  breast  parings,  prepare  game  cream  forcemeat 
(No.  75),  have  it  nice  and  smooth  and  keep  it  cold.  Butter  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig. 
139),  decorate  the  sides  with  fanciful  bits  of  truffle  and  lay  it  aside  on  ice.  Prepare  a 
garnishing  composed  only  of  fine  and  very  white  cocks'-combs,  not  having  them  too  much 
cooked  and  place  them  in  a  bain-marie.  With  the  carcasses  of  the  breasts  without 


644  THE    EPICUREAN. 

the  legs  prepare  a  good  furaet,  and  strain  it.  Put  on  to  reduce  a  few  gills  of  good  bechamel  (No. 
409)  with  a  small  bunch  of  green  fennel,  mushroom  peelings  and  a  spoonful  of  prepared  red 
pepper  (No.  168)  and  incorporate  the  fumet  slowly  into  this;  when  this  sauce  becomes  rich,  but 
not  too  thick,  strain  and  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie  stirring  it  up  occasionally.  Fill  the  decorated 
mold  with  the  crearn  forcemeat  pressing  it  in  carefully,  cover  it  over  with  a  buttered  paper  and 
poach  it  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  bain-marie.  At  the  last  moment  poach  the  fillets 


FIG.  398. 

over  a  brisk  fire,  turning  them  around  and  keeping  them  rare;  two  minutes  will  suffice  for  their 
cooking  drain  them  off  at  once  to  pare  and  pour  into  this  same  sautoir  one  gill  and  a  half  of  good 
game  stock  (No.  195),  reduce  the  liquid  to  half  with  the  butter  and  incorporate  this  slowly  into  the 
sauce.  On  the  rounded  end  of  each  of  the  fillets  lay  an  oval  piece  of  cooked  truffle  covered  with 
a  thin  layer  of  raw  forcemeat  to  help  fasten  it  on.  Unmold  the  border  on  a  dish,  fill  the  interior 
with  the  well-drained  combs  and  dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  on  the  border.  Cover  them  as  well 
as  the  combs  with  a  part  of  the  sauce  and  serve  the  rest  apart. 

(2074).  HARE  A  LA  OHATELAINE-STUITED  (Lievre  Farci  a  la  Ohatelaine\ 

Skin  arid  draw  a  good  hare,  not  having  it  too  young,  lard  it  with  shreds  of  larding  pork  (No. 
3,  Fig.  52),  make  a  hash  with  its  minion  fillets,  the  heart,  liver  and  a  few  good  cooked  chicken 
livers,  put  this  into  a  vessel  and  mix  in  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  fat  pork,  bread-crumb  rasp- 
ings, chopped  onions,  one  egg,  salt  and  thyme.  With  this  dressing  fill  the  hare's  stomach,  sew  up 
the  opening,  truss  the  shoulders,  head  and  legs,  then  put  it  into  a  long  braziere,  having  the  bottom 
covered  with  fragments  of  fat  pork,  minced  onions  and  roots,  aromatic  herbs  and  mushroom  peelings, 
add  two  or  three  gills  of  white  wine  and  cover  with  buttered  paper;  cover  the  pan  and  allow  the  hare 
to  cook  very  slowly  for  two  or  three  hours  with  fire  over,  and  under  or  in  the  oven,  adding  a  little  broth 
or  gravy  from  time  to  time.  When  the  hare  is  three-quarters  done,  lift  it  out,  strain  the  stock, 
skim  it  free  of  fat  and  thicken  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  then  boil  again  for  five  minutes. 
Pour  this  into  the  braziere,  replace  the  hare  and  add  two  or  three  dozen  fresh  peeled  mushrooms, 
then  finish  cooking  all  together.  Dish  up  the  hare,  untruss  and  surround  it  with  the  garnishing 
and  a  part  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  separately. 

(2075).  JUGGED  HAEE  (Oivet  de  Lifcvre). 

To  prepare  this  dish  the  hare  should  not  be  too  tender;  those  are  only  desirable  when  eaten 
roasted.  Skin  the  hare,  draw  it  well  reserving  the  blood  in  a  small  bowl  with  a  dash  of  vinegar 
added.  Separate  the  four  limbs  from  the  back,  cut  them  up  into  medium-sized  pieces  and  split  the 
head  in  two,  then  cut  the  back  across.  Lay  these  parts  in  a  vessel  to  season  and  marinate  with  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  brandy,  aromatic  herbs  and  sprigs  of  parsley;  leave  them  in  this  for  five  to  six 
hours.  Melt  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  chopped  fat  pork,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut 
in  flat  squares,  and  as  soon  as  these  are  browned,  remove  them  with  a  skimmer,  leaving  the  fat  in 
the  saucepan,  and  to  it  add  the  well  drained  pieces  of  hare.  Fry  over  a  very  brisk  fire  stirring  at 
times,  and  when  the  meats  are  well  browned,  besprinkle  with  two  spoonfuls  of  flour;  cook  this 
while  turning  for  a  few  minutes,  then  moisten  the  stew  to  its  height,  with  a  third  part  of  good  red 
wine  previously  boiled  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel,  and  two-thirds  of  broth  (No.  194a),  adding  both 
very  slowly.  Stir  the  liquid  until  it  boils  and  let  it  continue  thus  for  ten  minutes;  withdraw  the  sauce- 
pan to  a  slower  fire,  put  in  a  bunch  of  aromatic  herbs,  two  or  three  small  onions  and  mushroom 
parings.  Continue  the  cooking  until  the  meats  are  partly  done,  then  set  a  large  colander  on  top  of  a 
vessel  and  pour  into  it  the  stew;  return  the  sauce  to  a  sautoir,  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  red 
wine,  boil  the  same  as  before,  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy  (No.  404)  to  enrich  it,  reduce  for  a  few  mo- 


GAME.  645 

ments,  skimming  off  the  fat  and  put  it  back  into  the  first  saucepan.  Take  up  the  pieces  of  hare  one  by 
one,  pare  them  free  of  all  superfluous  bone  and  return  them  to  the  sauce,  all  except  the  head,  and 
add  the  bacon  and  the  marinade  the  hare  was  in.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  to  finish  cook- 
ing the  meats  very  slowly;  twenty  minutes  before  taking  off  the  stew,  mix  in  with  it  two  dozen 
mushrooms  and  finish  cooking  all  together.  At  the  last  moment  thicken  the  gravy  with  the  blood 
laid  aside,  being  careful  that  once  this  is  added  not  to  let  it  boil  again.  Dress  the  meats  and  bacon 
on  a  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  and  surround  with  clusters  of  mushrooms  and  the  same  of  small 
onions  glazed  separately. 

(2076).  HARE'S  BAOK  BOASTED  WITH  OREAM  (Rable  de  Li&vre  Roti  a  la  Orfcme). 
The  hares  used  for  roasting  should  be  chosen  particularly  tender.     Suppress  the  shoulders,  legs, 
and  neck,  leaving  the  back  whole;  remove  the  fillet  skin  delicately  so  as  to  be  able  to  lard  the  meats 
with  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52);  season  and  lay  the  back  in  a  small  baking  pan  to  mask  over  with 


Fio.  399. 

butter  and  roast  in  the  oven  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes  while  basting  at  times.  Drain  off  the 
back  and  dress  it  on  a  dish,  pour  off  half  the  fat  and  put  into  the  pan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze 
(No.  400);  boil  up  for  five  minutes  to  detach  the  glaze  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  then  strain  and 
let  reduce  for  a  few  moments,  adding  a  gill  of  raw  cream;  finish  the  sauce  with  a  dash  of  vinegar. 

(2077).  YOUNG  HARE  A  LA  OASTIGLIONE-SAUTED  (Levraut  Saut<§  a  la  Oastiglione), 
Cut  a  young  hare  into  twelve  parts;  two  shoulder  pieces,  four  from  the  legs  and  six  from  the 
back  and  ribs,  put  these  in  a  saut^ing  pan  and  fry  on  a  good  fire  with  plenty  of  fresh  butter;  throw 
over  some  chopped  parsley  and  mushrooms,  two  blanched  and  very  finely  chopped  shallots,  a  little 
cooked  ham  either  cut  very  small  or  in  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  moisten 
with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  194a)  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  a  little 
garlic,  and  a  clove;  cook  on  a  slow  fire,  then  finish  in  a  slack  oven  in  a  hermetically  closed  sauce- 
pan, allowing  it  to  be  in  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes;  remoisten  as  fast  as  the  liquid  becomes 
reduced,  adding  only  a  very  little  at  the  time  so  that  when  done  there  remains  very  little  of  the 
stock,  and  that  has  fallen  to  a  glaze  without  adhering  to  the  pan.  After  the  hare  is  done,  pour 
in  two  gills  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  half  a  gill  of  Madeira  at  the  same  time,  suppressing 
the  parsley,  and  finish  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Garnish  around  with  heart-shaped  croutons 
fried  in  butter. 

(2078).  EPIGRAMMES  OF  YOUNG  HARES  A  LA  POLIGNAO  (Epigrammes  de  Levrauts  a  la 

Polignac). 

Raise  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets  from  two  young  hares;  suppress  the  skin  and  nerves  and  cut 
the  fillets  slanting  into  two  pieces  each;  beat  lightly  and  pare  them  all  into  cutlet  form;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  fine  spices  and  truffles  cut  in  thin  shreds.  Mince  the  fragments  of  the  meat, 


646  THE    EPICUREAN. 

add  a  third  as  much  pork  tenderloin  and  chop  the  two  well  together  with  as  much  chopped  fat  pork  as 
fresh  pork;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  adding  some  reduced  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 
Divide  this  preparation  into  twelve  parts,  have  as  many  squares  of  "crepine"  or  caul  fat  four 
inches  by  five  spread  out  on  a  cloth,  on  each  one  lay  half  of  its  intended  forcemeat,  on  top  the 
pared  cutlet-form  fillet  and  then  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat;  fold  the  ''crepine"  or  caul  fat 
into  an  oval  shape,  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  baste  over  with  butter,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs 
and  cook  in  the  oven.  Dish  them  up  in  a  circle  intercalated  with  cutlets  made  of  very  delicate 
hare  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  made  with  the  parings,  dip  in  eggs,  bread-crumb  over  and  then 
fry  in  olive  oil.  Pour  into  the  center  of  the  circle  a  little  marinade  sauce  (No.  496)  with  chopped 
truffles  added.  The  quenelle  forcemeat  cutlets  can  be  replaced  by  others  made  of  hare  croquette 
preparation  (No.  885). 

(2079).  YOUNG  HAKES'  FILLETS  WITH  CURRANT  JELLY  AND  RAISIN   SA.UOE  (Pilets  de 

Levrauts  k  la  Sauce  de  Gelee  de  Groseilles  et  aux  Raisins). 

Pare  and  suppress  the  nerves  from  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets  of  two  young  hares;  cut  the 
larger  ones  on  the  bias  to  obtain  two  or  three  slices,  flatten,  pare  into  half  hearts,  season  and  put 
them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  sprinkle  over  with  butter.  With  the  bones  and  fragments  make  a 
fumet  (No.  397)  and  moisten  it  with  skimmed  broth  (No.  194a),  and  when  ready  pass  this  through 
a  sieve  and  pour  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  gill  of  vinegar,  then  reduce  the  liquid  to  a  half-glaze, 
stir  in  some  currant  jelly,  a  piece  of  lemon  peel  and  a  handful  of  well-washed  dry  raisins  softened 
in  hot  water.  Push  the  fillets  into  a  brisk  oven  and  as  soon  as  cooked  add  them  to  the  sauce; 
dress,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  pour  part  of  it  over  the  meats,  serving  the  rest  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(2080).  YOUNG  HARES'  PAUPIETTES  WITH  STUPFED  OLIVES  (Paupiettes  de  Levrauts  aux 

Olives  Farcies). 

Take  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets  from  two  young  hares,  suppress  the  nerves  and  separate 
them  lengthwise  in  two;  flatten  all  the  pieces  and  then  cut  them  up  into  twelve  bands  or  strips  an 
inch  and  a  half  wide  by  two  and  a  half  long;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Pass  twice 
through  the  chopping  machine  (Fig.  47)  a  pound  of  the  lean  meats,  cut  from  the  legs  and  shoulders 
of  the  hare  with  as  much  fresh  fat  pork;  when  the  whole  is  very  fine  add  to  it  some  cooked  fine 
herbs  (No.  385),  two  ounces  of  bread  crumbs,  one  egg,  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  a  layer  of  this  hash 
on  each  strip,  roll  them  over  on  themselves  and  place  in  buttered  paupiette  rings.  Make  a  fumet  (No. 
397)  with  the  carcasses  and  fragments  moistening  it  with  white  wine;  reduce  some  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  with  this  fumet,  despumate  it  free  of  all  fat  and  scum  that  arises  to  the  surface.  Cook 
the  paupiettes  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  moisten  with  white  wine  mirepoix 
stock  (No.  419);  when  done,  drain  off  and  strain  the  stock,  reduce  it  with  the  espagnole  and  fumet. 
Stuff  some  Spanish  olives  with  anchovies,  heat  them  in  a  little  gravy  (No.  404);  dress  the 
paupiettes  in  a  circle,  fill  the  center  with  the  stuffed  olives  and  place  a  channeled  mushroom  (No. 
118)  on  each  paupiette;  cover  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2081).  LARKS  A  LA  MAREOHALE  (Mauviettes  k  la  Mare~chale). 

Bone  and  stuff  about  fifteen  larks  with  a  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  mixed  with  a  little  raw 
forcemeat  (No.  91)  and  chopped  truffles.  Form  these  into  ball-shapes  and  wrap  each  one  in  a 
small  piece  of  cloth;  tie  them  up  tight  and  cook  in  a  very  little  clear  stock  (No.  194a);  drain 
off  to  tighten  the  cloth.  When  cold,  unwrap  the  birds  and  pare;  lay  each  one  inside  of  a  large 
head  of  cepes  or  fresh  mushrooms  previously  scooped  out  with  a  vegetable  spoon.  Lay  these  in  a 
sautoir,  pour  over  some  hot  butter  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  on  a  bright  fire  while  covered,  then 
baste  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  cook  again  for  seven  or  eight  minutes 
on  a  slow  fire,  remove  them  with  a  pallet  and  dress  on  a  dish;  add  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
wine  to  their  broth  and  thicken  it  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  reduce  for  two 
minutes  and  then  pour  into  the  dish. 

(2082).  LARKS  BROILED  (Alouettes  Grilles). 

Take  the  larks  well  cleaned  and  picked,  split  them  lengthways  through  the  back,  season  and 
broil;  three  to  five  minutes  suffice  to  cook  them.  Dress  on  canapes  made  of  toasted  oblongs  of 
bread-crumbs,  cover  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  made  with  quail  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414) 
that  has  been  liberally  buttered,  then  serve. 


G-AMil  647 

(2083).  LAKES,  PERIGTTEUX  SAUCE— EOASTED  (Alouettes  Eoties  Sauce  P6rigueux). 

Roast  without  drawing,  only  removing  the  gizzard,  singe  and  cover  with  very  thin  bards  of 
fat  pork  and  run  a  metal  skewer  through  four  of  them,  keeping  them  slightly  apart  so  that  the 
heat  can  penetrate  between  each  one.  They  only  require  to  be  cooked  from  five  to  six  minutes, 
then  dress  them  on  croutons  of  bread  covered  with  liver  forcemeat;  remove  the  larding  and  pour 
over  a  Perigueux  sauce  with  Madeira  (No.  517). 

(2084).  LAKES  WITH  KICE  (Mauviettes  au  Riz). 

Singe,  draw  and  bone  about  fifteen  fine  larks;  spread  them  out  on  the  table  to  season  and  lay  in 
each  one  a  ball  of  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  mixed  with  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  and  a  part  of 
their  own  intestines,  cooked,  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  form  the  birds  into  ball-shapes 
and  sew  them  up,  then  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  butter  or  melted  fat  pork;  season  and  fry 
quickly  for  seven  or  eight  minutes  while  turning  them  over;  now  remove  them  from  the  pan,  leav- 
ing in  the  fat,  and  into  this  add  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions;  fry  and  mix  with  it  three  or  four 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  raw  ham;  fry  together  for  two  minutes  longer,  then  put  in  three  gills  of  good 
picked  rice  without  previously  washing  it;  heat  well  while  stirring  and  moisten  with  a  quart  of 
good  unskimmed  broth  (No.  194a).  After  this  has  boiled  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  when  the  rice  be- 
gins to  soften  add  the  untrussed  larks,  a  pinch  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  a  garnished  bunch 
of  parsley  (No.  123)  and  two  spoonfuls  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  cook  both  rice  and  larks 
moderately  and  finish  by  incorporating  into  it  a  generous  piece  of  butter  divided  into  small  pats. 
Dress  in  a  deep  dish  and  pour  over  two  spoonfuls  of  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549). 

(2085).  PARTRIDGES,  BROILED  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Perdreaux  Grille's  a  1'Anglaise). 
Cut  two  tender  partridges  in  two  after  they  have  been  drawn  and  singed;  cut  off  the  legs  to 
the  height  of  the  knee  to  slip  them  under  the  skin;  beat  lightly,  suppress  the  surplus  of  bone, 
reason  and  bread-crumb  them  English  style,  rolling  them  in  oil  or  melted  butter,  then  in  fresh 
bread-crumbs.  Range  these  half  partridges  on  a  broiler,  and  broil  for  eighteen  minutes  over  a 
moderate  fire,  turning  them  from  one  side  to  the  other;  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  hatf -glaze  sauce 
(No.  413)  and  sliced  lemon  around. 

(2086).  PARTRIDGES,  GIRALDA-BREASTS  OR  FILLETS  (Ailes  on  Pilots  de  Perdreaux  a  la 

Giralda). 

Raise  the  breasts  from  four  partridges;  remove  the  skin  and  sinews  and  lift  off  the  minion 
fillets;  streak  these  with  five  slices  of  truffle  cut  the  shape  of  a  cock's-comb.  Lay  the  large  fillets  in 
a  buttered  sautoir  and  the  minion  fillets  formed  into  rings  in  another,  filling  the  centers  with 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  pushed  through  a  cornet  and  on  each  one  lay  a  small  channeled  mush- 
room (No.  118).  Butter  and  decorate  with  cooked  beef  tongue,  a  plain  border  mold  hollowed  out 
on  top  (Fig.  139),  fill  it  with  partridge  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91);  poach  in  a  bain-marie  for  half 
an  hour  first  on  top  of  the  range  and  then  in  the  oven.  Prepare  a  fumet  with  the  carcasses  as  in 
No.  397,  strain  and  reduce  with  the  same  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  a  little  Ma- 
deira; skim  to  free  it  well  from  fat,  removing  all  the  impurities  arising  on  the  surface.  Saute" 
the  fillets,  poach  the  minion  fillets,  drain  off  the  butter  from  the  former  and  replace  it  by  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Madeira  to  detach  the  glaze.  Make  a  partridge  puree  with  the  meats  picked  from  the 
birds,  some  rice  and  bechamel;  rub  it  through  a  sieve  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  to  season  with 
salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  nutmeg,  adding  plenty  of  butter.  Invert  the  mold  on 
the  center  of  a  dish,  lift  it  up  and  place  the  fillets  on  the  border  with  a  fried  crouton  of  bread  to 
separate  each  one  and  pour  the  puree  in  the  center;  serve  more  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(2087).  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  JULES  VERNE-BREASTS  OR  FILLETS  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Per- 
dreaux a  la  Jules  Verne). 

Fasten  a  wooden  foundation  on  a  dish  having  it  slightly  sloped  and  channeled  all  around, 
then  cover  it  entirely  with  cooked  paste  (No.  131).  On  the  center  of  this  foundation  attach  a  tin 
basket  covered  over  with  more  of  the  same  paste,  embossed  and  decorated  with  a  pretty  hanging 
border;  the  empty  space  in  the  basket  is  filled  with  a  crouton  of  fried  bread  covered  with  a 
layer  of  the  same  paste.  The  three  partridge  heads  must  retain  their  own  feathers  and  should  be 
selected  as  fresh  as  possible-,  to  keep  them  in  a  proper  position,  penetrate  the  necks  with  a  wire 


648  THE    EPICUREAN. 

sufficiently  thick  to  uphold  them  thrusting  the  other  end  of  the  wire  into  the  piece  of  bread  pre- 
pared for  this  purpose  in  the  basket;  between  each  head  is  also  fastened  a  small  paper  case  filled 
with  a  truffle.  Kaisethe  breasts  from  five  or  six  partridges  without  the  minion  fillets;  suppress  the 
skin,  beat  them  to  flatten  and  pare  with  the  same  care  as  is  bestowed  on  a  chicken  fillet,  then 
season  and  place  them  at  once  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter,  at  the  last  moment  poach  the 


FIG.  400. 

breasts  over  a  good  fire  turning  them  around,  they  should  be  kept  rare,  then  drained,  wiped  free  of 
butter  and  on  each  wide  end  place  a  round  piece  of  truffle  cut  out  with  a  round  cutter  and  covered  on 
one  side  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  raw  forcemeat  to  make  it  adhere.  Dress  these  breasts  in  a  circle  the 
pointed  ends  downward  on  the  paste-covered  foundation  cover  them  lightly  with  a  little  good 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  partridge  fumet  (No.  397)  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boatful 
of  the  same. 

(2088).  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  LUOULLUS-BREASTS  OR  FILLETS  (Ailes  ou  Pilots  de  Perdreaux 

a  la  Lucullus). 

Eoast  some  partridges  that  have  been  wrapped  up  exactly  as  explained  for  a  la  Matignon  (No. 
2096);  when  done  remove  the  breasts,  pare  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No. 
400).  Prepare  a  fumet  (No.  397)  with  the  parings  and  carcasses.  Butter  a  plain  border  mold 
deep  on  the  top  (Fig.  139),  decorate  the  sides  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles  and  fill  it  entirely  with 
partridge  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75).  Cut  some  raw  artichoke  bottoms  into  small  squares,  then 
blanch,  cut  some  carrots  into  half  inch  diameter  balls,  and  blanch  them  likewise,  some  turnips 
the  same,  blanching  them  as  well,  some  small  cooked  mushroom  heads  and  truffles  shaped  like  a 
clove  of  garlic.  First  put  the  artichokes  with  some  butter,  add  the  carrots  and  turnips,  and 
moisten  with  a  little  Madeira  and  the  fumet;  let  cook  slowly  and  when  these  three  vegetables  are 
done,  then  add  the  mushrooms  and  truffles;  as  soon  as  the  liquid  reduces  entirely  pour  in  some 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  toss  the  garnishings  in  it,  adding  small  pieces  of  fresh  butter;  with  this 
fill  the  hollow  in  the  center  of  the  unmolded  border;  glaze  the  breasts  or  fillets,  trim  them  with 
favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  lay  them  on  top  of  the  garnishings;  surround  the  border  with  small  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  balls  made  of  foies-gras  from  a  terrine  pressed  through  a  sieve,  bread-crumbed, 
egged,  then  fried. 

(2089).  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  VE'RON-BREASTS  OR  FILLETS  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Perdreaux  a 

la  Veron). 

Trim  the  breasts  of  four  partridges,  then  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter, 
and  salt  over.  Cook  the  legs  in  a  small  saucepan  with  some  stock  (No.l94a),  let  them  get  quite  cold 
and  then  cut  off  the  tenderest  parts  of  the  meats;  pound  these  with  the  cooked  partridge  livers, 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  cooked  truffles  and  two  spoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  then  press 
the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  pulp  into  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  amount  of  chestnut  puree 
(No.  712),  and  two  spoonfuls  of  good  melted  glaze  (No.  398);  season  and  heat  without  ceasing  to 
stir  and  without  letting  it  boil;  finish  with  a  piece  of  butter.  Poach  the  partridge  breasts,  drain 
off  the  butter  and  pour  a  little  sauce  over;  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  alternating  each 
one  with  a  crouton  of  bread  cut  cock's-cornb-shaped  and  browned  in  clarified  butter;  lay  the  puree 
in  the  center  of  the  circle,  and  cover  over  the  fillets  with  a  melted  glaze  applied  with  a  brush. 


GrAME.  649 

(2090).  PARTRIDGES-MINCED  (EmincS  de  Perdreaux). 

Remove  the  best  parts  from  two  breasts  of  roasted  partridges,  pare  and  suppress  the  skin 
and  bones;  cut  the  meat  up  into  small,  thin  slices  and  range  them  in  a  small  sautoir.  Reduce 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  a  little 
Madeira,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  aromatic  herbs;  when  of  a  good  succulence, 
strain  it  over  the  meats  and  heat  them  up  without  boiling.  At  the  last  moment  dress  the  slices  on 
a  small,  long  dish  and  cover  with  the  sauce;  surround  with  a  row  of  large,  stuffed  Spanish  olives 
heated  in  a  little  of  the  sauce,  but  they  should  not  boil. 

Minced  Pheasant  Woodcock  or  Duckling  may  be  prepared  exactly  tht  same.  The  olive  gar- 
nishing can  be  replaced  by  a  row  of  small  slices  of  red  beef  tongue,  or  else  stuffed  and  baked 
artichoke  bottoms,  each  one  cut  in  two. 

(2091).  PARTRIDGE  MINCED  WITH  RICE  (EmincS  de  Perdreaux  au  Biz). 
Cut  in  slices  the  breasts  of  two  roast  partridges;  if  very  tender  take  also  the  thick  thigh  part 
and  pare  the  slices  neatly;  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  two  or  three  minced  truffles  and  cover  with 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.413);  keep  the  meats  warm  in  a  bain-marie.  At  the  last  moment  dress  the  mince 
and  truffles  in  the  center  of  a  risot  border  inverted  on  a  dish,  or  else  the  stew  can  be  served 
alone  and  surrounded  with  a  row  of  oval  game  quenelles,  poached,  cut  in  half  across,  breaded  and 
fried,  and  set  on  the  flat  end.  Even  these  quenelles  can  be  replaced  by  small  hollow  bread  crusts 
cut  either  into  triangles  or  half  circles  and  covered  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles. 

(2092).  SALMIS  OF  PARTRIDGES  (Salmis  de  Perdreaux). 

Pick,  singe,  draw  and  truss  four  partridges  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  roast  them  either  on 
the  spit  or  in  the  oven;  they  will  require  half  an  hour  to  cook,  remove,  untruss  and  let  get  partly 
cold,  then  cut  them  up  into  five  pieces  each;  the  two  legs,  two  fillets  and  one  breast  piece;  suppress 
all  the  skin  covering  each  member  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  buttered  paper  over  and 
cover  with  the  lid;  keep  either  in  a  bain-marie  or  else  at  a  moderate  heat.  Break  up  the  bones, 
put  them  into  another  saucepan  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.l94a)  and  a  pint  of  Chablis, 
leave  it  on  the  range  until  it  boils,  then  add  a  pint  more  broth  and  let  cook  very  slowly  for  half 
an  hour,  being  careful  to  skim  off  all  the  fat  as  it  arises  to  the  top,  then  strain  through  a  napkin. 
Fry  in  butter  a  little  chopped  shallot,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  whole  peppers,  moisten  with  the  stock 
and  reduce  with  as  much  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  stirring  well  from  the  bottom  with  a  spatula 
to  prevent  it  adhering  thereto.  After  this  sauce  is  well  reduced,  pour  it  through  a  tammy  and 
put  one-third  of  it  with  the  pieces  of  partridge.  Fry  sixteen  half  heart-shaped  croutons  in  butter; 
dish  up  the  salrnis  putting  the  legs  at  the  bottom  on  top  of  bread  croutons,  cover  these  lightly 
with  the  sauce  and  lay  the  wings  and  breasts  between  intermingling  in  the  other  croutons  and  in 
the  intersections  formed  by  them,  dress  some  turned  and  channeled  mushroom  heads  (No.  118) 
and  cut  up  truffles.  Incorporate  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  oil  into  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  and 
pour  it  over  the  salmis. 

(2093).  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  BAUDRIMONT  (Perdreaux  a  la  BaudrimonU 
Roast  two  partridges;  untruss  and  set  aside  to  cool,  remove  breast  meats  in  a  way  to  form  a 
hollow  in  the  shape  of  a  case,  cut  the  meats  into  three-eighths  of  inch  squares;  prepare  an  equal 
quantity  of  mushrooms  cut  the  same,  as  much  ducks'  livers  and  some  small  partridge  quenelles 
made  with  a  coffeespoon  (No.  155).  Put  a  gill  of  Madeira  into  a  saucepan,  heat  it  well  without 
boiling  and  let  a  piece  of  Ceylon  cinnamon  infuse  therein  for  half  an  hour,  take  this  out,  then 
add  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  reduce  the  whole;  throw  in  the  salpicon  and  when  all  is 
cold,  use  it  to  fill  the  partridges,  having  the  breasts  nicely  rounded;  cover  over  with  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  91),  smooth  neatly  and  cover  the  whole  with  melted  butter;  bestrew  bread-crumbs 
and  parmesan  over  and  brown  in  a  moderate  oven,  being  careful  to  baste  occasionally  while 
cooking.  Arrange  the  partridges  on  a  dish,  glaze  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and 
serve  a  financiere  sauce  (No.  464)  apart. 

(2094).  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  CHARTREUSE  (Perdreaux  a  la  Chartreuse). 
Blanch  two  cabbages  each  cut  in  four  and  the  core  removed;  drain  and  divide  them  into  small 
clusters,  press  out  all  the  water  and  braise  them  with  a  piece  of  bacon  of  about  ten  ounces  that 
has  been  previously  parboiled.    Prepare  a  garnishing  of  carrots  and  turnips,  blanch  and  then  cook 


650  THE    EPICUREAN. 

them  in  broth  to  allow  finally  to  fall  to  a  glaze;  have  also  some  quenelles  made  with  a  coffee- 
spoon  (No.  155).  Fry  in  butter  or  melted  fat  pork,  two  trussed  partridges,  season  and  when  of  a 
fine  color,  drain  them  off,  make  a  hollow  in  the  middle  of  the  cabbage  in  the  saucepan  and  lay  the 
partridges  in,  and  finish  cooking  all  together.  As  soon  as  the  birds  are  done,  drain  them  off  and 
keep  them  warm  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400),  drain  off  also  the  bacon  and 
cabbage,  extract  all  the  fat  from  the  latter  and  dress  half  of  it  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  lay  the 
partridges  on  top  and  surround  with  the  rest  of  the  cabbage,  the  carrots,  the  turnips  and  the  que- 
nelles all  in  separate  clusters.  Glaze  the  partridges  over  with  a  brush  and  serve  with  a  sauce- 
boatful  of  the  half-glaze  from  the  saucepan. 

Another  Way. — Decorate  a  timbale  mold  with  carrots  and  turnips,  upholding  the  decorations 
with  a  layer  of  thick  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91).  Cut  up  the  partridges  and  fill  the  mold 
with  the  cabbage,  the  bacon  and  the  partridges,  place  it  in  a  santoir  containing  water  and  put  in 
the  oven  for  half  an  hour;  unmold,  pour  part  of  the  sauce  around  the  chartreuse  and  serve.  A 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  should  be  served  separately  at  the  same  time. 

(2095).  PAETEIDGES  A  LA  MAELY  (Perdreaux  k  la  Marly). 

Have  two  partridges,  truss  them  as  for  an  entree  fNo.  178),  and  fill  them  with  well  seasoned 
partridge  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  into  which  mix  truffles  and  cooked  beef  tongue  cut  in  three- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares;  tie  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  over  and  braise  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix 
stock  (No.  419);  strain  this  and  put  the  fat  back  into  the  saucepan  to  keep  the  birds  warm  therein. 
Raise  the  fillets  from  the  breast  of  a  raw  partridge,  remove  the  sinews  and  cut  the  meats  into  escal- 
ops;  saute  them  in  butter  without  browning,  drain  off  the  butter,  remove  the  meats  and  keep  them 
warm  in  this.  Put  half  a  pint  of  the  stock  used  for  cooking  the  partridges  into  a  sautoir  with  as  much 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  reduce  and  add  some  cut  up  truffles  and  mushrooms;  the  sauted  part- 
ridge escalops,  a  little  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Dress  the  partridges  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish, 
place  the  garnishing  around,  and  outside  of  it  lay  some  crescent-shaped  game  croquettes  (No.  885). 

<2096).  PAETEIDGES  A  LA  MATIGNON,  GAENISHED  WITH  "PAINS"  A  LA  MONTGLAS- 
(Perdreaux  a  la  Matignon  Garnis  de  Pains  k  la  Montglas). 

Prepare  and  truss  two  partridges  as  for  an  entree  as  in  No.  178.  Wrap  the  two  partridges 
with  dry  matignon  (No.  406)  in  several  sheets  of  paper;  roast  and  when  done,  unwrap  and  place 
the  matignon  in  a  saucepan  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414) ;  reduce, 
despumate  and  strain  through  a  tammy.  Butter  twelve  mousseline  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  138),  deco- 
rate them  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  and  cover  the  entire  inside  with  a  layer  of  partridge  que- 
nelle forcemeat  (No.  91),  filling  the  center  as  far  up  as  the  edges  with  a  montglas  prepared  as 
follows:  Cut  off  the  white  meats  from  half  of  a  roasted  partridge;  have  as  many  mushrooms 
heads  cut  the  same  size,  and  half  as  many  truffles  as  mushrooms,  also  as  much  cooked  beef  tongue 
as  truffles;  mingle  these  with  a  little  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  when  the  molds  are  full  finish  with 
more  forcemeat.  Put  some  boiling  water  in  a  saucepan  to  reach  to  a  third  of  the  height  of  the 
molds  and  poach  these  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Dress  the  partridges,  glaze 
and  lay  them  on  top  of  an  oval  rice  foundation  (Fig.  9a);  unmold  the  montglas  pains  around, 
and  cover  over  with  some  of  the  sauce  having  the  rest  served  apart. 

(2097).  PAETEIDGES  A  LA  SOYEE  (Perdreaux  a  la  Soyer). 

Make  a  forcemeat  with  the  partridge  livers  and  a  few  chopped  chicken  livers;  knead  in  a  piece 
of  butter,  pepper,  salt,  a  little  shallot  previously  fried  lightly  in  butter  and  chopped  parsley.  Have 
two  trussed  partridges  (No.  179);  put  about  two  ounces  of  this  prepared  forcemeat  into  each  one, 
and  cook  them  on  the  spit  for  half  an  hour;  dress  on  canapes,  and  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404  j 
under.  Serve  separately  the  same  time  as  the  partridges  an  English  bread  sauce  (No.  438). 

(2098).  PAETEIDGES  BEAISED  A  LA  MOLIEEE  (Perdreaux  Braise's  a  la  Moliere). 

Truss  three  partridges  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  cover  the  breasts  with  slices  of  lemon 
and  these  with  bards  of  fat  pork.  Line  a  flat  saucepan  with  the  fragments  of  pork,  some 
ham,  cut  up  vegetables  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  lay 
the  partridges  on  top  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  dry  white  wine  and  half  a  pint  of 
stock  (No.  194a);  boil  this  liquid,  skim  and  continue  to  boil  slowly  either  on  the  side  of  the 
range  or  in  the  oven  until  the  partridges  are  cooked  then  drain  and  untruss.  Cut  each  one 
up  into  five  parts  and  arrange  them  in  a  saucepan  to  keep  warm  in  a  bain-marie  with  the  fat 


OAME.  651 

drained  from  the  first  saucepan;  in  the  stock  place  the  broken  carcasses,  moisten  with  half  a  pint 
of  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  half  a  glassful  of  Madeira,  boil  up,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and 
reduce  again  to  half,  thickening  it  with  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  pour  this  over  the  cut  up 
partridges  and  keep  the  whole  warm.  Prepare  a  partridge  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  mold  it  with 
a  tablespoon  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  733,  and  range  these  quenelles  in  a  buttered  sautoir, 
decorate  with  truffles  and  poach.  Dress  the  partridges  on  a  forcemeat  foundation  (Fig.  8)  without 
the  central  support  and  garnish  around  with  the  quenelles,  cover  with  a  little  supreme  sauce  (No. 
547)  serving  a  sauce-boatful  of  it  separately. 

(2099.  PAETEIDGES  BKOILED-COLBEKT   SAUCE  (Perdreaux  Grille's    Sauce  Colbert). 
After  the  partridges  have  been  well  cleaned,  split  them  lengthwise  through  their  backs;  cut 
off  the  feet  and  slip  the  legs  under  the  skin;  beat,  pare  carefully,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
dip  them  in  melted  butter  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire;  serve  when  done  either  on  a  Colbert  sauce 
(No.  451)  or  a  hunter's  sauce  (No.  480)  or  else  a  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(2100).  PAETEIDGES  TEUFFLED  AND  EOASTED  (Perdreaux  Trunks  etEotis). 

Draw  two  young  partridges,  wipe  them  well  and  singe.  Peel  five  or  six  raw  truffles,  cut  them 
in  four  and  season;  chop  up  the  peelings  and  pound  them  with  fresh  fat  pork,  adding  to  it  the 
cooked  partridge  livers  with  two  or  three  pullet  livers;  season  the  preparation  and  press  it  through 
a  sieve.  Melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  fat  pork,  add  to  it  the  cut  up  truffles,  season  and 
warm  up  for  a  few  seconds  while  tossing  over  the  fire,  then  mix  them  in  with  the  forcemeat.  After 
this  preparation  has  cooled  off,  use  it  to  fill  the  partridge  breasts  and  bodies;  sew  up  the  openings, 
truss  and  cover  or  else  lard  them  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  fasten  them  on  the  spit  and 
roast  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  front  of  a  good  fire,  basting  over  with  butter.  As  soon  as  they 
are  done  sprinkle  salt  over  and  remove  from  the  spit;  untruss  and  dress  each  one  on  a  large  crust 
of  bread  browned  in  butter  and  laid  on  an  oval  dish;  surround  the  partridges  with  sliced  lemons 
only,  serving  water-cress  separately,  also  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(2101).  PAETEIDGES  WITH  CABBAGE  (Perdreaux  aux  Choux). 

Dress  four  partridges,  truss  them  for  an  entree  as  in  No.  178,  and  plunge  the  breasts  in 
boiling  water  to  stiffen  the  skin,  then  lard  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Blanch  for  fifteen 
minutes  four  medium  cabbages  after  removing  the  heart  or  core,  and  part  of  the  green  leaves;  re- 
fresh, drain  and  press  out  every  particle  of  water,  then  divide  each  quarter  into  two,  remove  the 
thick  stalks,  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  tie  with  a  string;  put 
them  into  a  braziere  (Fig.  134)  with  the  partridges  and  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  two  equal-sized  pieces 
and  blanched  for  ten  minutes;  add  also  a  one  pound  sausage,  four  medium  carrots  cut  lengthwise 
in  four,  two  onions,  one  having  two  cloves  stuck  in  it,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme 
and  bay  leaf.  Moisten  with  some  stock  (No.  194a)  adding  a  little  chicken  fat;  let  cook,  and  after  it 
comes  to  a  boil  finish  in  a  slack  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  If  the  partridges  be  old  ones 
they  require  one  hour  and  a  half  to  cook;  remove  them  from  the  braziere,  also  the  sausages  and 
bacon  which  must  be  put  under  a  light  weight  to  cool  off;  it  will  take  fully  three  hours  to  cook  the 
cabbages.  Have  four  dozen  small  carrots  cut  in  pear-shapes  and  as  many  turnips  of  cylindrical 
form,  two  inches  long  by  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  round  the  ends  neatly,  then  blanch,  cook  and 
let  fall  to  a  glaze  separately.  Half  an  hour  before  serving  return  the  partridges  to  the  cabbages 
and  keep  the  whole  warm.  Cut  the  bacon  into  large  three-fourths  of  an  inch  squares,  the  sausages 
into  slices,  and  put  both  these  into  a  sautoir  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  cabbage  stock  so  that  they 
keep  hot  until  ready  to  serve;  drain  the  cabbages  through  a  colander,  pressing  it  lightly  to  form 
into  a  socle  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  laying  the  four  untrussed  partridges  on  top  in  a  square, 
placing  two  clusters  of  carrots  and  two  of  turnips,  alternated  with  the  slices  of  sausages  between 
the  partridges,  having  the  bacon  in  the  center  on  top.  Cover  the  partridges  only  with  a  half- 
glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  serve  some  of  the  same  sauce  separately. 

(2102).  PAETEIDGES  LAEDED  AND  EOASTED  WITH   GEAVY  AND  WATEE-OEESSES 

(Perdreaux  Piques    Eotis  au  Jus  Garnis  de  Oresson). 

Prepare  and  truss  the  partridges  for  roasting  as  explained  in  No.  179;  dip  the  breasts  into 
boiling  water  to  stiffen  the  skin,  and  lard  with  small  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Lay  them  on  the 
spit  to  roast,  salt  over  and  untruss  a  few  moments  before  serving;  glaze  and  dress  on  a  canape 


652 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


and  surround  with  water-cress,  sewing  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful  of  partridge  fumet  (No. 
397)  or  clear  gravy  (No.  404).  They  can  be  barded  instead  of  larded  by  covering  their  breasts  with 
a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  tying  it  on  with  three  rounds  of  string;  roast  and  dress  the  same  as  the 
others.  An  ounce  of  good  butter  may  be  placed  inside  of  each  bird  before  cooking. 

(2103).  PARTRIDGES  WITH  OLIVES  (Perdreaux  aux  Olives), 

Lard  two  good-sized  partridges  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  and  put  them  into  a 
narrow  saucepan  lined  with  fragments  of  the  same  pork,  minced  roots  and  onions;  season  and 
moisten  with  a  little  white  wine,  then  reduce  to  a  glaze.  Cook  the  partridges  in  very  little 
moisture  with  stock  (No.  194a),  having  it  fall  several  times  to  a  glaze.  After  the  partridges  are 
nicely  done,  drain  them  off  to  untruss.  Strain  the  stock,  skim  off  its  fat  and  reduce,  then  incor- 
porate it  into  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  in  the  act  of  being  reduced  with  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
added  at  the  same  time.  Dress  the  partridges  on  a  dish,  surround  with  a  garnishing  of  olives 
stuffed  with  baked  forcemeat  (No.  81).  then  poached  and  covered  over  with  some  of  the  sauce; 
serve  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2104).  PARTRIDGE  WITH  SAUERKRAUT  (Perdreau   a  la  Choucroute). 

Cut  a  roast  partridge  into  small  pieces  and  lay  them  aside.  With  the  game  bones  and  parings 
some  aromatic  herbs  and  white  wine,  prepare  a  small  quantity  of  concentrated  fumet  (No.  397) ;  thicken 
it  with  very  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie.  Cook  some  good  sauerkraut 
with  a  small  piece  of  bacon,  proceeding  as  for  garnished  sauerkraut  (No.  2819),  adding  a  piece  of 
butter  divided  into  small  pats,  dish  it  up  and  form  a  hollow  in  the  center;  into  this  dress  the  pieces 
of  game,  pour  over  the  sauce,  cover  with  the  sauerkraut  and  surround  this  with  the  bacon  cut  in 
slices. 


FIG.  401. 

(2105).  BEEASTS  OR  FILLETS  OF  PHEASANTS  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Faisans 

aux  TrufFes). 

Kaise  the  breasts  from  six  pheasants;  remove  the  minion  fillets,  pare  the  large  ones  into  half 
hearts  after  suppressing  the  skin  and  lay  them  in  a  thickly  buttered  saute  pan  and  cover  over 
with  melted  butter;  place  the  minion  fillets  in  a  smaller  saute"  pan  after  removing  the  thin  skin 


GAME;.  653 

that  covers  them  also  the  sinews:  streak  them  by  cutting  six  bias  incisions  on  the  surface  and 
filling  these  with  half  circles  of  channeled  truffles  and  finish  by  giving  them  the  shape  of  a  ring; 
cover  over  with  very  thin  bards  of  fat  pork  or  else  buttered  paper.  Make  a  fumet  (No.  397)  with 
the  parings  and  legs,  suppressing  the  rump,  and  add  to  it  carrots,  onions  and  a  garished  bunch  of 
parsley  (No.  123),  moisten  with  a  pint  of  stock  (No.l94a)  and  two  gills  of  Madeira  and  let  this  come  to 
a  boil  and  continue  the  ebullition  process  very  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  strain  through  a  napkin 
and  separate  it  into  two  parts,  reduce  one  of  these  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  glaze  and  to 
the  other  add  as  much  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  that  is  being  reduced.  Escalop  one  pound  of  fine 
truffles,  put  them  in  a  bain-marie  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  Madeira  and  as  much  fine 
butter,  close  the  receptacle  well  and  keep  hot  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes.  Just  when  prepared  to 
serve,  saute  the  pheasants1  breasts;  finish  cooking  them  in  a  slack  oven  and  when  the  larger  fillets 
are  done  drain  off  the  butter,  being  careful  to  retain  the  glaze,  detach  this  with  a  little  Madeira 
and  add  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  fresh  butter;  dress  the  large  fillets  in  a  circle,  cover 
with  half  of  the  above  sauce  and  on  the  large  ones  lay  the  smaller  ones,  brush  over  with  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  pouring  the  truffles  in  the  center;  serve  the  other  half  of  the  sauce  separately. 


(2106).  SALMIS  OP  PHEASANT  A  LA  LORENZO  (Salmis  de  Paisan  a  la  Lorenzo). 
After  the  pheasant  has  been  roasted  the  same  as  for  No.  2107,  cut  it  up  into  six  or  eight 
pieces;  pare  these  nicely,  removing  all  the  skin,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  red 
or  white  wine,  two  shallots  cut  in  three-eighths  inch  squares,  the  peel  of  a  bitter  or  an  ordinary 
orange  and  that  of  a  lemon,  all  cut  in  small  fillets  and  then  blanched;  add  a  pint  of  espagnole 
(No.  414)  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  game  glaze  (No.  398).  Pound  the  parings,  rub  through  a  sieve 
and  add  this  pulp  to  the  sauce,  heat  it  up  without  boiling  and  keep  it  warm  in  the  same  way  in  a 
bain-marie.  Dish  up  the  pheasants,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  bitter  orange  into  the  sauce  and  pour 
it  over  the  dressed  birds,  garnish  around  with  bread-crumb  croutons  cut  in  heart-shapes  and  fried 
in  butter  and  small  game  croquettes  prepared  as  for  No.  885. 

(2107).    PHEASANTS  ADOENED  WITH  THEIR  OWN  PLUMAGE-ROASTED  (Faisans  R6tis 

Garnis  de  Leur  Plumage). 

The  pheasant's  head  can  be  preserved  in  advance  and  also  keep  carefully  the  wings  and  tail  intact. 
Pick  the  pheasants,  singe,  draw  and  truss  for  roasting  (No.  179);  bard  them  over  and  roast  either  on 
the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  basting  frequently  while  cooking;  when  done,  take  off,  untruss  and  dress  on 
top  of  trimmed  croutons  hollowed  out  in  such  a  way  that  the  pheasants  can  stand  well  on  them; 
glaze  over  and  decorate  with  their  own  plumage,  keeping  it  in  place  with  metal  skewers  and  letting 
them  appear  natural  and  lifelike;  surround  with  clusters  of  water-cress.  Strain  and  skim  the  fat 
from  the  dripping-pan  stock  and  dilute  it  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404);  pour  a  third  of  it  over 
the  pheasants  and  the  other  two-thirds  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2108).  PHEASANTS  A  LA  MONTEBELLO  (Faisans  a  la  Montebello). 

Cut  into  quarter  inch  squares,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cooked  duck's  livers,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  truffles,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  put  this  equally 
inside  of  two  pheasants;  truss  them  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  and  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork;  place 
them  in  an  oval  braziere  saucepan  (Fig.  134),  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  champagne  and  a  pint 
of  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  Cook  on  a  slow  fire  or  in  the  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Prepare  a  garnishing  to  be  composed  of  escaloped  and  braised  foies-gras,  eighteen  large  truffles, 
fourteen  double  cocks'-combs,  and  fourteen  fine  cocks'-kidneys.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  drain 
off  the  pheasants  and  untruss.  Have  already  prepared  a  conical-shaped  piece  of  bread-crumbs, 
four  and  a  half  inches  long  by  three  inches  wide,  and  eight  inches  high;  made  for  the  purpose  of 
upholding  the  birds;  form  a  hollow  on  each  side  near  the  top  to  enable  the  pheasants  to  be  placed 
therein;  fry  this  piece  of  bread  to  a  fine  color,  and  paste  it  on  the  dish.  Place  the  birds  in  an 
incline  inside  this  hollow  space  with  the  breasts  uppermost,  and  then  garnish  all  around  with  the 
truffles,  livei-s,  and  kidneys,  so  that  the  bread  is  completely  covered;  trim  five  skewers  with  some 
of  the  truffles  and  the  cocks'-combs  (Fig.  11);  stick  two  of  them  in  each  pheasant,  and  one  on 
the  summit  of  the  bread;  cover  the  whole  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  the  essence 
of  truffles,  and  serve  more  of  it  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 


654  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2109).  PHEASANT  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Faisan  &  la  Pengueux). 

Have  a  good  pheasant  not  too  gamey;  break  the  breastbone  and  fill  the  empty  breast  with 
liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64),  mixed  with  a  salpicon  of  cooked  truffles.  Truss  it  with  the 
legs  thrust  inside  and  cover  the  breast  with  a  dry  mirepoix  (No.  419)  wrap  it  in  a  half  sheet 
of  buttered  paper  tied  on  with  a  string.  Fasten  the  pheasant  on  the  spit  and  let  roast  for 
fifty  to  sixty  minutes  before  a  good  fire  while  basting,  then  take  it  off,  untie  and  dish  it  up,  cover- 
ing it  with  a  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517).  Serve  some  of  the  same  sauce  separately. 

(2110).  PHEASANT  TRUFFLED-BOASTED  (Faisan  Truffe"    Roti). 

Choose  a  good,  fat,  well  set,  and  tender  pheasant;  after  it  has  been  drawn  and  well  cleaned, 
fill  its  inside  and  breast  with  raw,  peeled  truffles,  slightly  fried  in  melted  fat  pork,  and  seasoned, 
proceeding  the  same  as  for  truffled  pullet  (No.  1992).  Lard  the  pheasant  or  else  wrap  it  up  in  fat 
pork;  thrust  a  small  skewer  through  in  order  to  fasten  it  to  the  spit  and  roast  for  fifty  to  sixty 
minutes  according  to  its  tenderness,  basting  it  over  with  butter.  As  soon  as  it  is  done,  detach  the 
bird,  untruss  it  on  a  dish  or  else  on  a  thick  oval  slice  of  bread  browned  in  butter.  Serve  with  a 
separate  sauce-boat  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  some  water-cress. 

(2111).  PHEASANT  WITH  TRUFFLES-LARDED  (Faisan  Pique'  aux  Truffes). 

Break  the  breastbone  of  a  clean  pheasant  to  facilitate  the  removal  of  the  bone,  and  fill  up  the 
empty  space  with  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  mixed  with  a  little  raw  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  raw, 
chopped  truffles  added;  sew  the  skin  underneath  the  breast  and  truss  with  the  legs  pushed  in  the 
thigh;  this  is  done  by  removing  the  drumstick  and  pushing  the  leg  bone  back  into  this  space;  put 
the  pheasant  in  a  narrow  saucepan  lined  with  fat  pork,  salt  over  and  besprinkle  with  melted  butter. 
Cook  for  forty-five  minutes  while  covered,  basting  over  frequently,  and  lastly  glaze  it,  then  drain. 
Untruss  it  on  a  rice  foundation  (Fig.  9a)  poached  on  a  dish  and  surround  this  with  round,  peeled 
truffles  cooked  in  wine;  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414) 
reduced  with  the  truffle  liquid  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  Accompany  this  entree  with 
a  sauce-boatful  of  the  same  sauce. 


(2112).  WILD  PIGEON  OR  SQUABS  POUPETON,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Poupeton  de  Pigeons  Ramier 

ou  de  Ramereaux  k  1'Ancienne). 

Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  veal  with  half  a  pound  of  beef  marrow  and  half  a  pound  of  fat  pork; 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  pound  all  together,  mixing  in  four  ounces  of  soaked  and  well 
pressed  bread-crumbs,  two  whole  eggs,  some  chopped  mushrooms  fried  in  butter  and  chopped  pars- 
ley. Lay  a  buttered  flawn  ring  eight  inches  in  diameter  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper;  fill  the  bottom 
and  sides  with  the  forcemeat  (No.81)  and  in  the  center  lay  a  stew  made  of  six  wild  pigeons  prepared 
as  explained  below.  Cover  the  top  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  having  it  bomb-shaped,  egg  over  and 
cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  For  the  wild  pigeon  stew,  truss  the  pigeons  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178); 
brown  them  in  butter  with  escalops  of  uncooked  sweetbreads,  some  ham  or  bacon  cut  in  five-eighths 
squares  and  blanched  mushrooms,  also  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123).  Dredge  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  over  the  whole  and  let  it  attain  a  fine  color;  then  moisten  with  white 
wine  and  stock  (No.  194a).  When  the  birds  are  cooked  suppress  the  parsley,  reduce  and  thicken 
the  sauce,  adding  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  put  it  into  a  vessel  to  get  cold  and  then  cut  the  birds 
lengthwise  in  two,  pare  neatly  and  use  for  filling  the  inside  of  the  poupeton. 

Wild  Squabs  are  roasted  or  broiled  the  same  as  tame  squabs.     See  No.  2018. 

(2113).  GOLDEN  PLOVER  OR  GRASS  PLOVER  AND  BUSTARD  PLOVER  (Le  Pluvier  ou  le 

Vanneau). 

Plover's  meat  is  of  a  very  delicate  taste;  it  excites  the  appetite  and  digests  easily.  Plover 
are  eaten  larded  or  barded  after  being  drawn  and  then  cooked  on  a  brisk  fire.  The  golden  and 
the  bustard  plover  are  very  much  alike,  living  in  the  same  localities,  eating  the  same  food,  and  their 
meats  are  almost  similar.  Golden  plover's  eggs  are  used  the  same  as  bustard  plover,  but  are  con- 
sidered much  inferior. 


655 

(2114).  PLOVERS  A  LA  MONTAUBAN  (Pluviers  a  la  Montauban). 

Draw,  singe  and  clean  the  plovers,  thrust  the  legs  inside  and  split  them  lengthways  through 
the  back;  open,  beat  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  saute  them  in  clarified  butter,  drain  this  off 
and  moisten  with  a  little  champagne  and  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  adding  some  peeled  and  sliced 
or  whole  truffles.  Dress  the  plovers  in  a  straight  row,  surround  them  with  the  truffles  and  strain 
the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  pour  part  of  it  over  and  serve  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2115).  PLOVERS  A  LA  STOUGHTON  (Pluviers  a  la  Stoughton). 

Draw  the  plovers,  singe,  clean  and  poeler  them  as  for  No.  12;  after  wrapping  them  in  thin 
bards  of  fresh  fat  pork  tying  each  one  on  with  three  rows  of  string.  Fry  the  intestines  in  butter, 
carefully  suppressing  the  gizzard  and  stomach  pouch,  drain  off  the  butter  and  replace  it  by  Madeira 
and  brown  sauce  (No.  414).  Then  simmer  for  a  few  minutes;  pass  it  through  a  tammy  and  add 
to  it  some  foies-gras  escalops,  truffles  and  cocks'-combs;  dress  the  plovers  in  a  low  croustade  made 
of  tart  paste  (No.  149)  and  pour  over  the  garnishing, 

(2116).  PLOVERS  A  LA  PARNY-BREASTS  (Filets  de  Pluviers  a  la  Parny). 
Raise  the  breasts  from  six  plovers;  pare,  beat,  salt  and  saute  them  lightly  on  the  side  that 
adheres  to  the  bones;  cover  this  side  with  a  salpicon  of  fresh  mushrooms  mixed  with  a  reduced, 
thick  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  spread  a  layer  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  on  top  and  bestrew 
with  finely  chopped  truffles;  range  them  in  a  sautoir,  pour  melted  butter  over  and  ten  minutes 
before  serving,  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  baste  at  times  with  melted  clarified  butter.  Drain 
as  soon  as  they  are  done  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  the  edge  of  a  low,  carved  rice  foundation  (Fig. 
9a);  fill  the  inside  of  thecircle  with  small  turned  mushroom  heads  (No.  118)  mingled  with  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  and  Marsala  wine.  Serve  a  sauce-boat 
of  this  brown  sauce  at  the  same  time  as  the  fillets. 

(2117).  PLOVERS  A  LA  VICTOR  HUGO-BREASTS  (Filets  de  Pluviers  a  la  Victor  Hugo). 

Remove  all  the  skin  from  the  breasts  taken  from  seven  plovers;  streak  the  minion  fillets  rounds 
of  truffles,  pare  the  larger  ones  into  half  hearts  rounded  on  one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other;  place 
a  minion  fillet  twisted  into  a  half-circle  on  the  edge  of  the  round  end  of  the  fillet  itself,  and  range 
these  in  a  sautoir,  cover  with  butter  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  frequently  while  cooking. 
Prepare  fourteen  half  heart-shaped  crotistades  the  same  size  as  the  fillets,  made  with  very  thin 
foundation  paste  (No.  135)  and  fill  with  paper  and  rice;  empty  them  as  soon  as  done  and  egg  over 
the  outside,  return  them  for  an  instant  to  the  oven  to  color,  and  then  fill  them  with  a  puree  of 
mushroons  (No.  722);  lay  one  of  the  fillets  in  each  and  glaze  over.  Serve  separately  a  brown  sauce 
(No.  414)  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  Madeira. 

(2118).  PLOVERS  BROILED  (Pluviers  Grille's). 

Split  them  lengthwise  in  two  through  the  back,  open  and  flatten  (see  broiled  woodcock,  No. 
2204);  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  them  with  oil  and  broil  in  a  double  gridiron;  dress  on 
croutons  of  basted  bread,  cover  with  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  and  serve. 

(2119).  PLOVERS  ROASTED  (Pluviers  Rotis). 

Singe  and  draw  half  a  dozen  of  either  golden  or  grass  plovers.  With  their  intestines  and 
some  grated  fat  pork  make  a  dressing  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  finely  chopped 
shallot  fried  in  butter;  fill  the  insides  of  the  birds,  bard  them  over  tying  on  the  pork. 
Turn  the  feet  and  maintain  them  by  passing  one  through  the  other;  run  the  under  part  of  the 
throat  on  the  leg  to  keep  it  in  this  position;  thrust  a  skewer  through,  fastening  it  on  the  spit, 
and  when  cooked  remove,  untruss  and  dress  on  top  of  croutons  (No.  51),  pour  over  some  good 
gravy  into  which  mix  game  glaze  (No.  398);  surround  with  water-cress  seasoned  with  vinegar  and 
salt. 

(2120).  PLOVERS  ROASTED  A  LA  MARTEL-LARDED  (Pluviers  Piques  Rotis  a  la  Martel). 

After  being  drawn,  or  simply  after  removing  the  gizzard,  for  they  are  frequently  roasted  the 
same  as  woodcock  without  drawing,  only  trussed  and  larded  with  fine  lardings  of  pork  (No.  4,  Fig. 
52);  fry  their  intestines  with  melted  fat  pork  and  a  few  good  chicken  livers,  chopped  truffles  and 


656  THE    EPICUREAN. 

cognac  to  make  a  preparation  the  same  as  described  for  woodcock  canapes  (No.  2205),  and  with 
it  cover  some  oblong  crusts.  Glaze  and  heat  them  at  the  oven  door  and  serve  witn  the  birds  on 
these.  Have  a  separate  colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  finished  with  cayenne  butter  (No.  571). 

(2121).  SALMIS  OF  YELLOW-LEG  PLOVERS  A  LA  DUCLAIR  (Salmis  de  Pluviers  a  Pattes 

Jaunes  a  la  Duclair), 

Eoast  six  yellow-leg  plovers  very  rare  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven;  cut  them  up  for  a  salmis 
retaining  only  the  breasts,  cut  these  in  two  through  the  center;  pound  the  remainder  of  the 
meats  with  the  same  quantity  of  rice  to  obtain  a  puree;  with  the  broken  up  carcass  make  a  white 
wine  fumet  (No.  397);  dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  center  with  the  puree,  lay  on  top  of 
it  some  slices  of  truffle  warmed  up  in  half -glaze  (No.  400)  with  Madeira  and  fresh  butter.  Prepare  some 
forcemeat  as  follows:  Fry  the  intestines  in  butter  with  chopped  shallots  and  chicken  livers,  season 
and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Make  some  oblong  crusts  two  and  a  half  inches  long,  two  wide  and  half 
an  inch  in  thickness,  slit  them  all  around  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  clarified  butter,  remove  the 
upper  part  and  empty  out  the  centers,  then  fill  them  with  the  prepared  forcemeat,  rounding  it 
slightly  on  top  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Range  these  crusts  around  the  dressed  salmis  and  serve 
with  a  sauce-boat  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  the  fumet  and  Madeira  wine. 

(2122).  BUSTARD  PLOVERS  A  LA  DUMANOIR  (Vanneaux  a  la  Dumanoir). 

Chop  up  the  intestines  of  several  bustard  plovers  with  as  much  grated  fat  pork,  pound  and 
press  through  a  sieve,  add  fine  spices  and  chopped  truffle  parings,  mixing  in  a  little  brandy  and  a 
soupcon  of  garlic.  Truss  the  plovers  as  for  roasting  (No.  179),  stuff  them  with  the  above  prepara- 
tion and  roast  in  a  hot  oven.  Dress  them  when  done  on  hollow  oval  bread  croutons.  Glaze  them 
over  with  game  glaze  (No.  398),  pour  a  little  gravy  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  separately  a 
small  quantity  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira. 

(2123).  QUAILS  A  LA  OAPREA  (Oailles  a  la  Caprea). 

Truss  eight  quails  as  for  entree  (No.  178),  after  picking,  singeing,  drawing,  and  cleaning  them 
well;  stuff  them  with  butter  into  which  has  been  mingled  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice,  then  saute 
them  in  some  butter;  transfer  to  a  saucepan  lined  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  cook  with  a  very  little 
white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.419);  place  around  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf,  eight 
ounces  of  lean  bacon  cut  in  quarter  inch  squares,  and  eight  ounces  of  lean  ham  cut  the  same,  also 
eight  ounces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  the  whole  blanched  separately,  and  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  as 
cloves  of  garlic.  When  the  quails  are  cooked,  untruss  and  transfer  them  to  another  saucepan, 
skim  the  stock,  and  pour  the  strained  fat  over  the  quails  to  keep  them  hot;  now  strain  the  stock 
itself,  remove  all  the  fat  that  is  left,  and  add  it  to  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  a  little  Madei- 
ra; season  and  boil  it  down  to  the  consistency  of  a  succulent  sauce.  Blanch  four  ounces  of  rice,  cook 
it  with  very  little  unskimmed  stock  (No.  194a),  and  when  done  place  it  in  a  flat  bottomed  border  mold 
(Fig.  139)  having  it  carefully  buttered,  or  if  to  unmold  at  once  dip  it  merely  into  cold  water;  fill  it  very 
tight,  unmold  on  a  dish  and  on  top  of  the  border  lay  oval  pieces  of  tongue,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick 
by  three  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide;  remove  the  centers,  making  the  same  shape  oval  only 
two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide;  on  these  lay  the  quails,  glaze  over  with  game  glaze  (No.  398), 
and  inside  the  center  of  the  border  dress  the  bacon,  ham,  artichoke  bottoms,  and  truffles;  cover 
with  some  of  the  sauce,  serving  more  apart. 

(2124).  QUAILS  A  LA  MAOEDOINE-LARDED  (Oailles  PiquSes  a  la  MacMoine). 

Truss  eight  quails  after  they  have  been  picked,  drawn,  and  singed,  proceeding  the  same  as  for 
an  entree  (No.  178);  dip  the  breasts  in  boiling  water  and  lard  them  with  small  lardons  (No.  4,  Fig. 
52).  Line  a  low  saucepan  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  lay  the  quails  on  top,  and  moisten  with  a  white 
wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  braise  in  a  slack  oven  and  when  almost  done,  glaze  over.  Untruss 
and  dress  in  a  circle  with  a  garnishing  of  macedoine  vegetables  (No.  680),  in  the  center;  strain 
the  stock,  free  it  of  its  fat,  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  half-glaze,  serving  it  separately.  The 
quails  may  be  bardec!  instead  of  larded,  and  the  macedoine  replaced  by  green  peas  Parisian  style 
(No.  2745),  or  else  cucumbers  cut  as  cloves  of  garlic,  blanched  and  cooked  in  consomme'  (No.  189), 
then  thickened  with  bechamel  (No.  409),  etc. 


GAME.  657 

(2125).  QUAILS  A  LA  MIREPOIX  (dailies  a  la  Mirepoix), 

Bone  the  breasts  from  the  inside  of  six  small  and  singed  quails.  Shred  finely  into  small 
Julienne,  some  onions,  red  part  of  carrots,  tender  celery  stalks,  and  fresh  mushrooms;  fry  all  these 
very  slowly  with  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stirring  occasionally  until  cooked;  season  and  remove. 
Leave  these  ingredients  to  cool  off  partially  in  the  saucepan,  then  put  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of 
glaze  (No.  398)  barely  melted  so  as  to  have  a  thick  preparation  of  a  proper  consistency  to  roll 
into  balls.  Insert  one  of  these  balls  into  the  breast  of  every  quail,  sew  up  the  skin,  truss  and  fry 
them  for  two  minutes  in  a  saucepan;  season  and  moisten  with  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine;  glaze  over 
with  a  brush,  and  finish  cooking  them  smothered.  When  the  quails  are  properly  done,  drain  off 
to  untruss;  lay  each  one  in  an  oval  china  case  with  a  part  of  their  stock;  cover  with  a  little  good, 
reduced,  thick  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  having  it  almost  cold,  and  let  this  sauce  become  glossy  for 
two  minutes  at  the  oven  door;  serve  the  quails  at  once. 

(2126).  QUAILS,  PIEDMONTESE  STYLE  (dailies  a  la  Piemontaise). 

Bone  the  breasts  of  four  or  five  clean  quails,  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  a  baked  forcemeat  (No. 
81)  and  truffles,  mingled  with  a  little  raw  forcemeat  (No.  91);  truss  and  cook  smothered  with  Madeira 
wine  and  gravy.  Have  one  quart  of  water,  half  a  pound  of  polenta,  and  a  piece  of  butter  and  some 
salt  and  with  it  prepare  a  mush;  as  soon  as  done,  finish  with  a  handful  of  parmesan  and  another 
piece  of  butter.  With  this  preparation  fill  a  buttered  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  and  keep  it  warm.  Fry 
quickly  in  butter  about  fifteen  small  Chipolata  sausages  (No.  754),  drain,  cut  them  apart  and  glaze 
over  with  a  brush.  At  the  last  moment,  lift  up  the  quails  and  cut  each  one  in  two,  unmold  the 
polenta  border  on  a  hot  dish,  dress  the  quails  pyramidically  in  the  center  and  lay  the  halved  sau- 
sages in  a  circle  on  top  of  the  border,  cover  the  border  and  sausages  with  Piedmontese  brown  sauce 
(No.  519). 

(2127).  QUAILS  A  LA  TALLEYRAND-BREASTS  (Filets  de  Cailles  a  la  Talleyrand). 
Raise  the  fillets,  suppress  the  skin  and  nerves  and  pare  them  into  half  hearts,  season  and  saute 
with  slices  of  raw  truffles  add  a  half-glaze  sauce  with  Madeira  (No.  413).  Lay  them  on  half  heart- 
shaped  bread  croutons  the  same  size  as  the  fillets  and  hollowed  out,  then  filled  with  a  salpicon  of 
mushrooms  mingled  with  half-glaze  sauce  made  of  game  essence  (No.  389).  Dress  in  a  circle  on  a 
dish,  put  truffles  in  the  center  and  pour  the  sauce  over  all. 

(2128).  QUAILS  BROILED  (dailies  Grilles). 

Have  the  birds  very  clean  and  truss  with  the  legs  thrust  inside;  split  them  through  the  back 
without  separating,  open,  trim,  beat  and  season,  then  coat  them  over  with  butter  or  oil  and  broil. 
Dress  on  well  pared  toasted  slices  of  bread  and  cover  with  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(2129).  QUAIL  OUTLETS,  GIRONDINS  (dotelettes  de  dailies  aux  Girondins). 
Prepare  the  same  as  the  above,  split  them  in  two  equal  parts,  the  legs  to  form  a  handle  and 
trim  with  a  fancy  frill  (No.  10).  Saute  on  a  brisk  fire,  keeping  them  rare,  then  place  under  a  light 
weight,  cover  over  with  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  let  get  cold,  then  dip  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  in  clarified  butter,  dress  on  croutons  of  cooked  red  beef  tongue,  filling  the  center  with 
minced  cepes  fried  in  oil,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley;  drain  and  mix  in  with  the 
cepes  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  lemon  juice.  Serve  a  sauce-boat  of  Bordelaise  sauce  (No. 
436)  at  same  time. 

(2130).  QUAILS  IN  PAPERS  (dailies  en  Papillotes). 

Prepare  eight  cleaned  quails  by  removing  the  bones  beginning  at  the  back  and  leave  on  one 
leg  only,  then  stuff  with  game  forcemeat  (No.  91)  into  which  has  been  added  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385)  and  a  little  glaze  (No.  402);  put  them  Into  halt  heart-shaped  bottomless  molds,  having 
them  laid  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  thin  bards  of  fat  pork,  pour  butter  over  and  cook  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour;  leave  them  in  their  molds  and  set  a  weight  on  top.  Fry 
in  butter  chopped  shallot,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  parsley,  add  a  quart  of  veloute  sauc 
(No.  415),  reduce  and  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks,  a  little  cream  and  the  juice  of  two  strainea 
lemons.  Cut  out  six  sheets  of  strong  paper  into  heart-shapes,  coat  them  with  oil;  on  the 
right  side  of  the  heart  and  near  the  center  having  the  point  toward  you,  place  on  a  layer  of  the 


658  TTIK    EPICUREAN. 

cooked  fine  herb  sauce  (No.  385),  over  this  a  quail,  and  on  top  another  layer  of  the  sauce;  fold 
the  paper  in  two  forming  a  half  heart,  crimp  the  two  edges  together  to  enclose  hermetically  and 
then  set  each  one  on  a  small  silver  dish;  place  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes 
-  and  when  a  fine  color  serve,  placing  the  hot  dish  from  the  oven  on  a  second  plate. 

(2131).  QUAILS  EOASTED  (dailies  Eoties). 

After  they  have  been  plucked  and  drawn,  singe  and  cut  off  the  end  of  the  claws;  truss  and 
cover  the  breasts,  first  with  a  grape  leaf  buttered  over  with  a  brush,  and  then  with  a  thin 
slice  of  fat  pork;  run  them  on  small  skewers  and  fasten  them  to  the  spit;  baste  over  with  melted 
butter  and  let  cook  for  fourteen  to  sixteen  minutes  then  salt;  take  off  and  untruss,  or  they  may  be 
put  in  a  baking  pan  sprinkled  with  butter  and  cooked  in  a  hot  oven.  Dress  each  one  on  a  crust 
covered  with  a  layer  of  baking  forcemeat  with  foies-gras  (No.  78),  and  serve  at  the  same  time 
some  clear  gravy  (No.  404). 

(2132).  QUAILS,  SALMIS  OF,  A  LA  MOKISINI  (Salmis  de  Oailles  a  la  Morisini). 
Prepare  six  quails  the  same  as  for  roasting  (No.  2131).  divide  them  in  two  splitting  through  the 
center  of  the  breast,  suppress  the  legs  and  pare  the  remainder  of  the  birds.  Mince  two  shallots 
finely,  break  the  legs  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  the  fragments  of  quail  and  the  shallots; 
moisten  with  red  or  white  Bordeaux  wine  (either  will  answer),  and  as  much  mirepoix  stock  (No. 
419)  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Let  boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  through  a 
sieve,  put  in  the  quails,  heat  up  without  boiling  and  dish  up  in  a  circle.  Add  some  finely  cut  up 
mushrooms  and  truffles  to  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  quails;  surround  the  salmis  with  heart- 
shaped  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter. 

(2133).  QUAILS  WITH  BAY  LEAF  (dailies  au  Laurier). 

Pick,  draw  and  singe  six  quails,  truss  for  roasting  (No.  179).  Chop  up  the  livers,  the  same 
quantity  of  chicken  liver  and  as  much  grated  fat  pork  as  liver;  add  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  a 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallot,  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs  and  one  small  beaten  egg.  Mix  the 
ingredients  well  together  and  fill  the  quails  with  it;  roast  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  over 
frequently  with  lard;  drain  this  into  a  saucepan  and  add  to  it  some  bread-crumbs,  raw  ham  cut  in 
one-eighth  squares,  fry  nicely  and  put  in  two  bay  leaves,  moisten  with  thickened,  gravy  (No. 
405)  and  game-glaze  (No.  398);  skim  off  the  fat,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  also  a  little  butter; 
mix  well  with  a  wire  whisk,  dress,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  quails. 

(2134).  QUAILS  WITH  MUSHROOMS-STUFFED  (Oailles  Farcies  aux  Ohampignons). 

This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  foundation  covered  with  cooked  paste  (No.  131)  having  a  low 
support  fastened  to  the  center,  also  covered  with  the  same  cooked  paste  and  decorated  on  the  upper 
edge  with  a  raised  border,  it  being  spread  out  and  open-worked  (Fig.  8).  Bone  the  breasts  of  ten 
quails,  fill  up  the  empty  space  with  a  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  mixed  with  a  little  raw  forcemeat 


FIG.  402. 

(No.  73),  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  truffles  cut  in  small  dice;  sew  up  the  skin,  truss  and  cover 
with  bards  of  salt  pork.  Lay  them  in  a  deep  sautoir  lined  with  salt  pork,  roots  and  minced  onions, 
moisten  with  a  glassful  of  white  wine  and  let  reduce,  then  remoisten  with  unskimmed  stock  (No. 
194a).  Boil  the  liquid,  withdraw  the  pan  to  a  slower  fire  to  finish  cooking  the  quails,  drain  them 
off,  untruss  and  untie.  Cut  each  one  lengthwise  in  two  and  dress  them  to  imitate  a  rosette  on 
the  foundation,  standing  almost  upright  without  injuring  their  shapes  and  leaning  them  against 
the  support.  Fill  up  the  empty  border  with  a  garnishing  of  pretty  white  mushrooms  all  of  the 
same  size;  cover  them  as  well  as  the  quails  with  a  little  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduce** 
with  the  quail  stock  and  that  of  the  mushrooms. 


GrAME.  659 

(2135).  QUAILS  WITH  KISOT  (dailies  au  Eisot). 

Draw  four  or  five  singed  quails,  bone  the  breasts  from  the  inside  of  the  birds  and  fill  in  the 
empty  space  with  baked  forcemeat  (No.  81),  mingled  with  a  little  raw  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91) 
and  having  chopped  truffles  added.  Truss  the  quails,  fry  in  a  sautoir  with  butter,  season  and 
moisten  with  Madeira  wine  and  gravy  (No.  404),  reduce  this  liquid  to  half  and  finish  cooking  them 
smothered.  At  the  last  moment  drain  off,  untruss  and  split  each  one  lengthwise  in  two,  then 
dress  on  a  risot  (No.  739).  Strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat  and  pour  it  over  the  birds. 

(2136;.  CALIFORNIA  QUAILS  A  LA  MONTEREY  (dailies  de  dalifornie  a  la  Monterey), 
Having  drawn  and  singed  six  California  quails  leave  the  breast  skin  as  long  as  possible  with- 
out breaking  it.  Peel  half  a  pound  of  truffles,  chop  up  the  peelings  and  cut  the  truffles  in  half 
inch  square  pieces,  season  with  No.  1  spices  (No.  168),  then  add  the  livers,  a  few  chicken  livers, 
a  little  brandy,  a  soupcon  of  garlic  and  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  stuff  the  quails  with  this  and 
truss  them  for  an  entree  (No.  178).  cover  with  thin  bards  of  fat  pork  tying  it  on  with  three  rows  of 
string,  run  a  skewer  through  and  range  them  on  the  spit;  put  to  the  fire  for  about  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  then  unwrap  and  dress  on  hollow  crusts  forming  them  into  a  circle;  cover  with  half- 
glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  finished  with  essence  of  truffles  (No.  395)  and  fill  the  center  with  cooked 
and  turned  small  mushroom  heads,  turned  olives  and  small  game  quenelles  made  with  a  coffeespoon 
(No.  155);  pour  some  sauce  into  this  garnishing,  serving  more  separately. 

(2137).  YOUNG  RABBIT  A  LA  dELTOISE  (Lapereau  a  la  deltoise). 

Divide  a  young  rabbit  into  twelve  pieces  after  skinning  and  drawing  it;  put  these  to  steep  in  a 
raw  marinade  for  six  hours,  then  drain  and  wipe,  lay  the  pieces  in  a  sautoir  with  fat  pork  cut  in 
half  inch  squares  and  blanched;  set  the  sautoir  on  a  good  fire  and  fry  the  rabbit  with  the  addition 
of  some  small  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove  of  garlic; 
when  the  meats  are  done,  baste  them  over  with  white  wine  and  some  clear  gravy  (No. 404),  adding  six 
peeled  tomatoes  cut  across  in  two  and  the  seeds  well  extracted,  also  half  a  pound  of  lean  cooked 
bam  cut  in  three-eixteenths  inch  squares  and  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414).  Remove  the  parsley, 
gkim  off  the  fat  and  season  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168);  dress  the 
rabbits  inside  a  risot  a  la  piemontese  border  (No.  2981),  pour  very  little  of  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

(2138).  YOUNG  RABBITS  A  LA  THIEBLIN  (Lapereaux  a  la  Thi^blin). 
Skin,  empty,  and  trim  two  young  rabbits;  put  the  livers  aside,  and  divide  each  rabbit  into 
twelve  pieces;  heat  some  oil  and  butter,  half  of  each,  in  a  sautoir,  put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  and 
season  well  with  salt,  pepper,  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf;  fry  them  quickly,  moisten  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  white  wine,  a 
little  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  tomatoes;  let  simmer  till  thoroughly  cooked,  and  add  the  sauted 
livers,  and  some  mushrooms.  Dress  the  rabbit  and  mushrooms,  covering  over  with  the  sauce. 
Prepare  a  rabbit  forcemeat  (No.  84),  mix  with  it  a  little  espagnole  sauce  reduced  and  stirred  with 
some  half-glaze  made  of  game  fumet  (No.  397);  place  it  in  small  oval  molds  and  poach  in  the 
oven;  cut  them  in  two  lengthways,  bread-crumb  them  first  without  any  eggs,  then  again  with 
eggs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  clarified  butter;  drain,  wipe,  and  dress  them  around  the  rabbit. 
Serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  made  with  game  fumet  (No.  397). 

(2139).  YOUNG  RABBITS,  VALENCIA  STYLE  (Lapereaux  a  la  Valence). 
Cut  up  in  twelve  pieces  each,  two  skinned  and  drawn  young  rabbits;  put  half  a  pound  of 
chopped  fat  pork  in  a  sautoir,  adding  the  rabbits  when  it  is  very  hot  and  fry  over  a  brisk  fire, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  also  half  a  pound  of  blanched  bacon  cut  in  quarter  inch 
squares,  one  medium  onion  cut  the  same  size,  four  quartered,  peeled  and  pressed  tomatoes,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  Cover  the  saucepan  and 
cook  on  a  moderate  fire;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  skim  off  the  fat,  suppress  the  parsley,  and  put 
in  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398);  dress  and  dredge  chopped  parsley  over  the  top.  Stiffen  some 
small  oiled  cases  in  the  oven,  fill  them  with  rabbit  forcemeat  (No.  84),  into  which  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385)  have  been  added;  place  on  top  the  minion  fillet  scored  with  truffles  removed  from  the 
rabbit,  and  over  these  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  bake  in  a  slow  oven,  drain  off  the  fat,  and  lay  a 
small  glazed  truffle  in  the  center  of  each  fillet;  range  these  cases  around  the  dish,  and  serve. 


660  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2140).  YOUNG  BABBITS,  HUNTEB'S  STYLE  (Lapereaux  au  Chasseur). 

Skin  and  draw  two  young  rabbits;  wash,  wipe,  and  cut  each  one  into  twelve  pieces;  put  them 
into  a  sautoir  on  a  brisk  fire  to  fry  and  color  the  meats  lightly,  adding  half  a  pound  of  raw  ham 
cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  four  ounces  of  onions  cut  exactly  the  same  size,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  garlic,  and  a  clove.  Drain  off  the  fat,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  putting  in  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  as  much  Burgundy  wine;  sim- 
mer, reduce,  and  add  a  pint  of  cooked  minced  mushrooms  and  half  as  many  truffles.  Dish  it  up 
and  garnish  with  the  mushrooms  and  truffles,  pour  a  third  of  the  sauce  over,  and  range  croutons 
of  bread  fried  in  butter  all  around;  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat. 

(2141).  WILD  BABBIT  JUGGED  WITH  BLOOD  (Civet  de  Lapin  de  Garenne  au  Sang). 

Procure  a  good,  young,  fleshy  wild  rabbit,  preserve  all  the  blood  in  a  bowl,  stirring  into  it 
a  little  vinegar  to  keep  it  liquid.  Skin  and  prepare  it,  and  cut  it  up  into  equal-sized  pieces.  Put 
the  meats  into  a  vessel  to  season  and  let  marinate  for  two  hours  with  a  little  boiled  vinegar,  a 
little  white  wine  and  a  tied  bunch  of  fresh  and  wild  thyme.  Chop  up  some  fat  pork,  melt  it  in  a 
frying  pan  and  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  small  squares  of  bacon;  after  these  are  well  sized,  remove 
them  with  a  skimmer  and  add  to  the  fat  the  well-drained  pieces  of  rabbit  and  cut  up  onions;  fry 
over  a  good  fire  until  the  meats  are  nicely  browned  and  have  evaporated  their  moisture,  then 
put  them  into  a  fireproof  stone  vessel  with  a  glassful  of  red  wine;  reduce  this  over  a  brisk  fire  and 
moisten  the  meats  at  once  to  their  height  with  white  wine  and  stock  (No.  194a);  let  this  liquid 
come  to  a  boil,  then  remove  the  vessel  on  one  side  to  boil  gently  until  partly  done;  strain  the 
liquid  through  a  sieve,  pare  the  surplus  bones  from  the  meats  and  return  the  latter  to  the 
saucepan  with  the  cut  up  bacon,  the  marinade,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  peeled  clove  of  garlic. 
Put  the  stew  back  on  the  fire  and  thicken  it  with  a  little  cooked  roux  or  diluted  flour,  finish 
cooking  slowly.  A  few  moments  before  serving,  transfer  all  the  pieces  of  rabbit  and  bacon  into 
another  saucepan,  strain  the  sauce  over  and  boil  up  once  or  twice  thickening  it  off  the  fire  with 
the  reserved  blood;  let  cook  again  but  without  boiling.  Dress  the  stew  on  a  dish  and  surround  it 
with  small  clusters  of  onions  glazed  separately,  if  intended  for  a  more  ceremonious  dish,  a  few 
clusters  of  fresh,  peeled  mushrooms  cooked  in  butter  may  be  added. 

(2142).  YOUNG  BABBIT  BOASTED  AND  LABDED  (Levraut  PiquS  et  Boti). 

Suppress  the  skin  from  the  back  and  hind  legs  of  a  good,  trimmed  rabbit;  fill  the  body  with  a 
bread  forcemeat  (No.  61),  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped  truffles  mixed  with  a  third 
as  much  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64);  sew  up  the  opening.  Break  the  b:me  of  the  thick  thigh 


FIG  403. 

part  so  as  to  be  able  to  bend  the  legs  under  and  keep  them  in  position  while  trussing;  truss  also 
the  fore  legs  and  the  head,  keeping  the  latter  upright.  Lard  the  back  and  thighs  with  larding 
pork  (No.  3,  Fig.  52).  Lay  the  rabbit  on  a  spit,  maintaining  it  in  position  with  skewers,  and 
roast  it  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  basting  over  frequently  with  butter,  and  when  done  salt  it 
over.  Remove,  untruss,  and  dress  on  a  dish;  serve  separately  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  also 
a  light  sharp  sauce  (No.  538). 

(2143).   FILLETS  OF  YOUNG  BABBITS  A  LA  BIENVENU,  GABNISHED  WITH  OBOQUETTES 

(Filets  de  Lapereaux  a  la  Bienvenu,  Garnis  de  Croquettes). 

Remove  and  lard  both  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets  from  four  young  rabbits,  having  the  lardons 
exceedingly  small  (No.  4,  Fig.  52);  place  them  in  a  saute  pan  with  clarified  butter,  place  on  a  brisk 


GAME.  661 

fire,  let  cook  and  drain  off  the  butter,  detaching  the  glaze  with  a  little  white  wine.  Dress  them  in 
the  center  of  a  dish  and  serve  witn  a  separate  marinade  sauce  (No.  496),  garnishing  around 
with  prepared  croquettes  as  follows: 

Hare  Croquettes. — Fry  colorless  in  butter,  one  ounce  of  finely  chopped  onions  adding  four 
ounces  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  eight  ounces  of  cold  roast  rabbit  taken  from  the  legs  and 
shoulders,  mix  with  a  well  reduced  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  also  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and 
fresh  butter,  add  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley;  when  this  preparation  is  cold  divide  it  into  inch 
and  a  half  balls,  flatten  them  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  dip  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color;  drain,  wipe  and  lay  them  around  the  dressed  rabbit,  resting  one 
against  the  other;  serve  with  the  sauce  as  explained  above. 


(2144).  PILLETS  OF  YOUNG  RABBITS  A  LA  LAVOISIER  (Filets  de  Lapereaux  k  la  Lavoisier). 

Raise  the  fillets  and  minion  fillers  from  four  young  rabbits,  suppress  all  the  nerves  and  cut 
them  into  bias  slices;  flatten  and  shape  into  half  hearts,  split  them  through  their  thickness  to  form 
a  pocket  and  season  this  with  salted  spices  (No.  168),  stuff  the  cavity  with  reduced  duxelle  (No.  385) 
and  cover  over  with  very  consistent  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  when  cold,  dip  in  eggs  and  bread- 
crumbs, then  saute  in  butter,  draining  this  off  when  done,  decorate  with  fancy  favor  frills  (No.  10) 
and  dress  in  two  rows,  trim  the  sides  with  cepes  sauted  a  la  Provengale  (No.  2723)  and  the  ends 
with  oval  shaped  rabbit  croquettes  decorated  with  truffles;  a  separate  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
with  Madeira  should  be  served  in  a  tureen. 


(2145).  FILLETS  OF  YOUNG  RABBITS  WITH  CURRANT  SAUCE  (Filets  de  Lapereaux  Sauce 

aux  Groseilles). 

Remove  the  nerves  and  pare  two  young  rabbit  fillets,  also  the  minion  fillets;  lard  them  with 
small  lardons  (No.  4,  Fig.  52)  and  marinate  for  two  hours,  then  strain  the  marinade  and  put  its 
vegetables  on  the  fire  to  fry  in  butter,  braise  the  fillets  in  this,  glaze  and  dress  in  a  circle.  Break 
up  the  bones  and  cook  them  in  butter,  adding  a  little  flour;  with  this  make  a  small  roux  (No.  163), 
season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  adding  an  onion  and  a  bunch  of  garnished  parsley,  moisten  with 
boiling  port  wine,  reduce  and  strain  through  a  sieve,  boil  it  up  again  and  despumate  well  adding 
some  currant  jelly,  dissolving  it  slowly  in  the  sauce;  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy  and  pour 
a  part  of  it  under  the  meats,  serving  the  remainder  separately.  The  fillets  can  be  roasted  instead 
of  braised  if  so  desired. 


(2146).  FILLETS  OF  YOUNG  RABBITS  WITH  ARTICHOKE  OR  MUSHROOM  PUREE  (Filets  de 
Lapereaux  a  la  Puree  d'Artichauts  ou  de  Champignons). 

Raise  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets;  divide  the  larger  ones  in  two  or  three  pieces,  then  pare 
each  one  and  make  a  deep  incision  on  one  side;  season  this  and  stuff  it  with  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385)  mingled  with  a  well-reduced  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  bread  them  English  style  (No. 
13),  and  broil  over  a  slack  fire.  Dress  in  a  circle  filling  the  center  with  a  puree  of  mushrooms  (No. 
722)  or  artichokes  bottoms  (No.  704)  and  serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced 
with  fumet  of  rabbit  (No.  397).  Instead  of  stuffing  the  whole  inside,  one  side  only  need  be  filled, 
after  sauteing  the  fillet  on  one  side,  mask  it  with  raw  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  then  dip  in 
eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter  to  a  fine  color;  serve  the  same  as  the  above. 


(2147).  GIBELOTTE  OF  RABBITS  (Gibelotte  de  Lapins). 

Cut  clean  fine  tame  rabbits  in  pieces,  put  them  into  a  vessel  to  season  and  marinate  for  a  couple 
of  hours  with  onions,  parsley,  and  vinegar.  Melt  some  chopped  up  fat  pork  in  a  pan;  add  to  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  cut  up  bacon,  fry  and  drain  this  off.  Put  the  rabbit  meats  into  the  same  pan 
and  fry  over  a  good  fire,  bestrew  with  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and  moisten  to  their  height  with  one- 
third  of  white  wine,  and  two-thirds  of  stock  (No.  194a);  boil  up  the  liquid,  then  transfer  the  stew 
into  a  saucepan  to  let  cook  slowly  until  partly  done;  strain  the  sauce,  pare  the  meats  and  return 
them  to  the  same  saucepan  with  the  bacon,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  and 


662  THE    EPICUREAN. 

two  dozen  small  onions  browned  in  a  pan;  continue  to  boil  all  together.  At  the  expiration  of  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  put  in  fifteen  to  twenty  fresh  mushrooms,  and  seven  or 'eight  minutes  later, 
dress  the  meats  on  a  dish  with  the  garnishings  around,  if  there  be  too  much  sauce,  reduce  it; 
strain  it  over  the  stew,  and  surround  with  plain  bread-crusts  cut  into  triangles,  and  browned  in 
butter. 

(2148).  GIBELOTTE  OF  YOUNG  BABBITS,  PARMENTIER  (Gibelotte  de  Lapereaux  Parmentier). 
After  disjointing  two  young  rabbits,  wash  them  in  plenty  of  cold  water  to  extract  all  the  blood, 
wipe  on  a  cloth  drying  them  at  the  same  time,  then  fry  in  butter  to  stiffen;  add  two  tablespoonf uls 
of  flour,  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic;  moisten  with  half  a  bottle- 
ful  of  white  wine,  and  some  stock  (No.  194a),  keeping  the  sauce  rather  thick,  now  throw  in  a  garnished 
bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  and  some  mushroom  parings.  Let  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
skim  the  fat  from  the  top,  drain  off  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  and  pare  each  one,  then  put  them  aside  in  a 
saucepan  to  keep  hot  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  sauce.  Now  reduce  the  remainder  of  it  to  re- 
semble a  thick  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  thicken  it  with  a  liaison  of  four  egg-yolks;  strain  it 
through  a  tammy,  and  place  it  in  a  bain-marie.  When  prepared  to  serve,  dish  up  the  pieces  of 
rabbit,  and  garnish  around  with  olive-shaped  potatoes  cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a)  and  a  pound  of 
cooked  mushrooms;  add  to  the  sauce  kept  warm,  a  heavy  pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  and  two  shallots 
blanched  and  chopped;  also  two  spoonfuls  of  olive  oil  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  pour  it  over  the 
rabbit. 

(2149).  WILD  KABBIT  BACKS,  BEOILED  (Rabies  de  Lapins  de  Garenne  Grille's). 

Pare  the  backs  of  three  field  rabbits,  skinned  and  cleaned;  suppress  the  breasts,  then  season; 
dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  immerse  in  melted  butter;  broil  for  twenty 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire  while  turning.  Dress  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  a  separate  sharp 
sauce  (No.  538),  or  else  a  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(2150).  RAIL  A  LA  MAREILLE-ROASTED  AND  BROILED  (Rale  Roti  et  Grill6    a  la  Mareille) 
A  species  of  bird  belonging  to  the  grallic  order;  they  are  in  great  demand  on  account  of  the 
delicacy  of  their  meats,  especially  in  the  fall  season.     There  are  two  kinds,  the  water  rail  and  the 
land  rail;  the  latter  being  the  best. 

A  la  Mareille. — Pick,  draw,  singe,  and  truss  six  rails,  carefully  remove  all  their  pin  feathers, 
then  stuff  them  with  the  following  dressing:  Chop  six  ounces  of  chicken  livers  with  as  much  fresh 
fat  pork,  both  to  be  chopped  separately;  mix  all  together,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  chopped  truffles,  mushrooms,  and  parsley;  cook  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  afterward  dress  on  hollow 
crusts  fried  in  butter  garnished  with  forcemeat  and  poached  in  the  oven;  serve  a  Bigarade  sauce 
(No.  435;  separately. 

Roasted. — Prepared  the  same  as  the  above  without  any  dressing;  roast  in  a  hot  oven,  and 
dress  on  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  and  covered  with  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78);  pour 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over,  and  serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Broiled. — Split  the  rails,  cook  and  dress  the  same  as  the  English  snipe  (No.  2157). 

(2151).  REED  BIRDS,  BROILED  (Melanges  Moustaches  Grilles). 

Split  them  through  the  back,  remove  the  intestines,  pare  and  season ;  place  them  in  a  hinged 
broiler,  cook  lightly  on  the  opened  side  and  finish  cooking  on  the  other  side;  a  few  moments 
should  suffice.  Dress  one  resting  on  the  other  intercalated  with  toasts;  spread  over  a  little  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (No.  581). 

(2152).  REED  BIRDS,  ROASTED  (Mesanges  Moustaches  Roties). 

Remove  the  gizzards  and  the  pouch  from  the  birds;  cut  off  the  legs  halfway,  singe  and  cover 
with  bards  of  fat  pork  pared  very  thin;  thrust  small  skewers  through,  and  spread  the  birds  with 


FIG.  404. 

a  spare  layer  of  softened  butter;  roast  them  for  seven  to  eight  minutes  at  a  brisk  fire,  salt 
over  when  unwrapping  and  dress  on  buttered  and  browned  crusts.     Serve  with  sliced  lemon. 


OAMK.  663 

(2153).  SNIPE-ENGLISH-APRIOAN  STYLE  (Be"cassines    Anglaises    a  1'Afiioaine), 
Divide  six  snipe  in  two  parts,  beat,  pare  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  melted  butter;  cook  the 
intestines  and  some  chicken  livers  in  butter  with  half  as  much  grated  fat  pork,  two  ounces  of 
bread-crumbs  and  half  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  incorporate 
into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles;   fill  some  hollowed  out  half  heart-shaped  croutons 
with  this  preparation,  cover  with  slices  of  fat  pork  and  poach  in  the  oven.     Saute  the  snipe  and 
when  done  lay  on  top  of  the  croutons  and  cover  with  espagnole  sauce  (No,  414),  reduced  with 
game  fumet  (No.  397);  serve  an  African  sauce  (No.  424)  separately. 
Dowich  snipe  are  prepared  the  same  as  English  snipe. 

(2154).  SNIPE-ENGLISH-A  LA  MONTALAND  (B^cassines    Anglaises  a  la  Montaland). 

Truss  twelve  very  clean  snipe,  roast  them  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  leaving  them  quite  rare; 
lift  off  the  breasts.  Fry  the  intestines  and  livers  in  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  cut  off 
all  the  leg  meats  and  pound  them  with  the  fried  intestines,  then  press  through  a  sieve.  Reduce 
half  a  pint  of  champagne  with  two  finely  minced  shallots,  also  some  truffles,  mushrooms,  chopped 
parsley,  mignonette  and  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  add  to  it  the  pounded  meats,  a  spoon- 
ful of  olive  oil  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Dress  the  snipe  on  half  heart  croutons  covered  with 
foies-gras,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(2155).  SNIPE-ENGLISH-A  LA  WALESKI  (Becassines  Anglaises  a  la  Waleski). 
Bone  the  backs  of  twelve  snipe.  Put  into  a  basin  three  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  half  a  pound 
«f  unmelted  butter,  two  chopped  and  blanched  shallots,  some  chopped  mushrooms,  finely  cut  up 
«hives,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  brandy;  stuff  the  birds  with  this  dressing  and  lay  them  in  but- 
tered bottomless  oval  molds  the  same  size  as  themselves,  then  cook  in  a  brisk  oven.  Prepare  some 
foundation  paste  (No.  135),  croustades  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  snipe,  and  when  baked  and 
emptied  fill  them  with  delicate  game  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  poach  in  a  slack  oven  and  dress  in  a 
circle  on  a  hot  dish;  lay  a  snipe  on  every  croustade,  glaze  over  and  fasten  on  one  end  a  well 
cleaned  head,  the  eyes  formed  of  forcemeat  and  a  round  of  truffles;  cover  with  brown  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  492)  and  game  glaze  (No.  389). 

(2156).  BAKED  SNIPE  (Becassines  an  Gratin). 

Singe  and  bone  twelve  snipe  leaving  on  the  feet  only  as  far  as  the  phalanges,  add  a  few  chicken 
livers  to  the  livers  and  intestines.  Fry  in  butter,  also  one  shallot,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  parsley 
all  finely  chopped,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  set  this  aside  to  cool,  then  pound 
thoroughly.  Pound  a  third  as  much  panada  (No.  121),  add  little  by  little  six  raw  egg-yolks  and 
the  preparation;  when  thoroughly  pounded,  press  the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  use  half  of  it  to 
fill  the  snipes,  sew  them  up,  truss  and  cover  with  fat  pork;  wrap  them  in  paper  and  cook  in  the 
oven  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes;  when  done,  untie,  untruss  and  lay  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish 
covered  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat;  fill  the  center  with  truffles,  olives  and  mushrooms, 
cover  with  thick  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  bestrew  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese  on  top  and 
brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(2157).  BROILED  SNIPE  (Becassines  Grilles). 

Split  the  snipe  lengthwise  through  the  back,  cut  off  the  legs,  pare  nicely  and  thrust  the  beak 
through  one  of  the  breasts  (see  broiled  woodcock  No.  2204),  season,  coat  with  oil  and  broil  over 
a  good  fire,  dress  on  slices  of  toast  and  pour  some  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  over;  serve 
very  hot. 

(2158).  ENGLISH  SNIPE  IN  PAPERS  (Be"cassines  Anglaises  en  Papillotes). 
Cut  six  snipe  in  two  lengthways,  pare,  beat  lightly,  season  and  toss  them  to  stiffen  both  sides. 
Fry  in  butter  some  shallots,  raw  mushrooms,  truffles  and  parsley  all  finely  chopped,  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  besides  this  fry  the  intestines  with  a  few  chicken  livers, 
season,  pound  and  press  through  a  sieve;  put  this  pulp  in  with  the  cooled  off  fine  herbs  and  divide 
the  preparation  in  twenty-four  parts  using  one  of  them  to  cover  the  inside  of  each  half  snipe.  Cut 
some  sheets  of  paper  into  hearts,  oil,  and  on  one  side  lay  a  half  snipe,  over  a  layer  of  grated  fat 


664  THE    EPICUREAN. 

pork  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  preparation,  fold  the  paper,  crimp  it  all  around  to 
enclose  properly  the  birds  and  dress  each  one  on  a  small  oval  dish  intended  for  the  table,  heati»s: 
and  browning  them  on  this.  When  of  a  fine  color  and  swollen  considerably,  remove  from  tiw» 
oven;  serve  separately  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397). 

(2159).  SNIPE,  ENGLISH,  BOASTED  (Be~cassines  Anglaises  Eoties). 

Pick,  singe,  remove  the  gizzard  and  pouch  and  truss  the  snipe  thrusting  the  feet  inside;  cover 
the  breast  with  a  very  thin  slice  of  fat  pork  and  cross  over  this  as  well  as  the  joint  of  the  thick 
part  of  the  leg  with  the  beak.  Koast  them  from  six  to  eight  minutes,  dress  on  slices  of  toast,  pour 
the  gravy  over  and  garnish  with  water-cress. 

(2160),  SNIPE  STUPTED,  BOEDELAISE  (Be~cassines  Farcies,  Bordelaise), 
Clean  the  birds  well,  draw,  remove  the  gizzard  and  pouch  and  chop  up  the  intestines,  mix  in 
with  them  as  much  grated  fat  pork,  some  parsley,  chives,  salt  and  pepper;  fill  the  snipe  with  this 
dressing  and  roast  them  in  the  oven;  dress  them  on  hollowed  out  bread  crusts  fried  in  butter  and 
filled  with  marrow  Bordelaise  (No.  436). 

(2161).  SAND  SNIPE  EOASTED  WITH  WATEE-OEESS  (Petites  Bfoassines  de  Sable  Eoties  au 

Oresson). 

Pick  and  singe  a  dozen  sand  snipe  without  drawing  them;  cover  with  very  thin  small  slices  of 
fat  pork,  and  run  a  thin  hatelet  or  skewer  into  them  one  after  the  other.  Lay  them  on  a  baking 
sheet,  pour  good  fat  over  and  roast  in  a  quick  oven;  when  done  salt  and  dress  in  pairs  on  bread 
croutons,  three  inches  long  by  one  and  a  half  wide  covered  over  with  butter;  pour  over  some  clear 
gravy  (No.  404)  and  decorate  with  water-cress.  Serve. 

(2162).  THEUSHES  ANDEIEUX  (Grives  Andrieux), 

A  bird  similar  to  the  blackbird  with  speckled  plumage;  its  meat  is  very  succulent.  Bone  the 
the  backs  of  eight  well-cleaned  thrushes,  leaving  on  the  breastbone  and  legs;  season  the  meats  and 
fill  the  insides  with  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Enclose 
the  dressing,  sew  and  truss  the  birds  for  an  entree  (No.  178).  Line  a  low  saucepan  with  bards  of 
fat  pork,  put  over  bottomless  oval  molds  three  inches  long,  two  wide  and  half  an  inch  high,  place 
a  thrush  in  each  of  these  rings.  Cut  up  some  ham,  veal,  carrots  and  onions  in  three-eighths  of  an 
inch  squares,  place  them  around  the  birds,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay 
leaf,  cover  with  a  round  piece  of  strong  buttered  paper,  moisten  with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a)  and 
Madeira  and  reduce  the  liquid  till  dry,  then  remoisten  with  broth  and  let  boil.  Close  well  the 
saucepan  and  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  leaving  it  there  until  the  birds  are  nearly  done,  then 
untruss  and  glaze  to  a  fine  color;  return  them  to  another  saucepan  with  a  little  braise  stock  to  keep 
hot  until  ready  to  serve.  Prepare  some  croustades  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  in  oval 
molds  three  and  a  quarter  inches  long,  two  and  an  eighth  wide  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
high.  Strain  the  stock,  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  with  the  same  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce 
(•No.  414),  and  a  gill  of  good  Madeira  into  which  has  been  infused  a  piece  of  Ceylon  cinnamon; 
take  a  third  part  of  this  sauce  to  serve  separately  at  the  same  time  as  the  thrush  and  to  the  other 
two-thirds  add  some  truffles  and  escalops  of  cooked  duck's  liver;  fill  the  croustades  with  this,  drain 
the  birds,  glaze  over  and  lay  them  on  top,  then  serve. 

(2163).  THEUSHES  A  LA  BIANOA  (Grives  a  la  Bianca), 

Have  as  many  birds  as  guests;  pick,  singe  and  remove  the  gizzard,  pouch  and  intestines  and 
fill  the  inside  of  each  one  with  Spanish  olives  stuffed  with  anchovies,  finishing  to  fill  up  the 
empty  space  with  lightly  melted  fresh  butter.  Cut  as  many  oval  croutons  as  there  are  birds,  hav- 
ing them  three  inches  long  by  one  and  three-quarters  wide  and  halt  an  inch  thick;  slit  them  all 
around  aquarter  of  an  inch  high  and  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  from  the  edge;  take  out  the  inside 
and  place  a  bird  In  this  hollow;  lay  them  in  a  sauteing  pan  the  bottom  covered  with  a  bed  of  clari- 
fied butter  and  put  it  on  the  hot  fire;  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  well  heated  push  it  into  the  oven  and 
after  the  croutons  are  colored  and  the  thrushes  well  cooked,  take  them  out  and  drain  them  from 
the  butter  on  a  cloth,  then  range  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  garnishing  made  of 
minced  mushrooms  and  truffles  mingled  with  half-glaze  (No.  400),  a  tablespoonful  of  good  olive  oii 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  pour  this  sauce  over  all  and  serve. 


G-AME.  665 

(2164).  BAKED  THEUSEES  (Grives  au  Gratin), 

Have  some  well-cleaned  thrushes,  bone  keeping  on  the  legs;  season  the  meats,  and 
in  each  bird  set  a  ball  of  forcemeat  made  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  foies-gras  from 
a  terrine,  half  of  each.  Truss  and  fry  in  butter  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf;  drain  off  the  butter,  moisten  with  a  little  Madeira  and  stock  (No.  194a),  and  reduce 
the  moisture  entirely  while  cooking  slowly.  Range  a  layer  of  game  quenelle  forcemeat  mixed  with 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385;  on  a  dish;  this  layer  should  be  seven  inches  in  diameter  by  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  high;  place  the  dish  on  a  baking-pan  containing  a  little  boiling  water  and  poach 
the  forcemeat  in  a  slack  oven.  Dress  the  thrushes  on  this  forcemeat,  the  breasts  lying  toward  the 
outer  edge  and  the  legs  in  the  center;  cover  the  birds  with  well  reduced  veloute*  sauce  (No.  415) 
into  which  mix  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398),  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  bestrew  with  par- 
mesan,  pour  over  melted  butter,  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven  or  salamander  (Fig.  123).  Serve  sepa- 
rately a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  white  wine  and  mushroom  essence  (No.  392). 

(2165).  THRUSHES  IN  THE  SAUCEPAN  (Grives  a  la  Casserole). 

Pick  and  singe  one  dozen  thrushes;  remove  the  gizzard  and  pouch  without  drawing  them, 
truss  for  roasting  and  fry  in  butter  in  an  earthenware  saucepan  over  a  brisk  fire.  When  done 
remove  them  from  the  saucepan,  untruss  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  the  legs  lying  inwards; 
add  to  their  stock  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398),  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
and  a  small  pinch  of  chopped  parsley.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  birds,  and  serve. 

(2166).  THEUSHES  AND  EOBINS,  BOASTED  AND  BEOILED  (Grives  ou  Eouges  Gorges  Botis  on 

Grille's), 

Pick,  draw,  and  singe  six  thrushes  or  robins;  stuff  them  with  forcemeat  made  of  four  ounces 
of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  in  dice,  and  as  much  finely  chopped  sausage  meat;  put  this  into  a  sautoir 
on  a  bright  fire  to  cook,  when  cool  add  four  ounces  of  truffles,  and  the  same  of  foies-gras,  cut  in 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares;  mix  in  six  ounces  of  thick  and  well-reduced  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407).  Truss  the  bird  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  cover  the  breast  with  a  grape  leaf,  and 
on  this  place  a  thin  layer  of  fat  pork;  cook  on  the  spit  or  in  a  quick  oven,  untruss  and  dress  on 
canapes  with  the  following  gravy  poured  around:  Fry  two  bay  leaves  in  butter  with  one  chopped 
shallot,  salt,  pepper,  and  fine  herbs,  add  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  a  little  stock  (No.  194a); 
let  boil  and  simmer,  then  put  in  some  game  glaze  (No.  398),  and  minced  mushrooms;  when 
ready  the  bay  leaves  should  be  removed. 

For  Broiling. — Prepare  and  broil  the  thrushes  the  same  as  quails  (No.  2128),  only  not  allowing 
them  to  cook  quite  as  long;  dress  and  serve  the  same. 

(2167).  VENISON.    ANTELOPE.    DEEE  (Chevreuil.    Antilope,    Daim). 

The  animal  should  be  chosen  at  the  age  of  eighteen  months  to  two  years  and  a  half,  in  order 
to  have  it  savory  and  tender.  The  flesh  is  then  excellent,  however  its  quality  depends  principally 
upon  its  place  of  abode.  Those  with  brown  hair  are  better  than  those  with  red.  Males  over  three 
years  of  age  are  unfit  to  eat  in  certain  months  of  the  year. 

The  meats  of  the  kid  or  doe  are  also  excellent  after  they  have  attained  the  age  of  nine  or  ten 
months.  The  parts  generally  used  are  those  from  the  saddle,  leg,  baron  (see  mutton,  Fig.  334,  for 
the  cuts),  quarter,  haunch,  hip,  cutlets  and  the  racks  from  the  fifth  rib  by  the  neck  as  far  down  as 
the  tenderloin,  the  shoulders,  tenderloins  and  breast.  The  saddle  tenderloin  and  rack  are  larded. 
The  haunch  and  quarters  are  marinated  from  two  to  ten  days  and  are  also  larded,  but  If  very 
fresh  and  tender  venison  is  eaten  without  being  marinated. 

(2168).  LOIN  OF  DEEE,  OHEEEY  SAUCE  (Longe  de  Daim,  Sauce  aux  Cerises), 
The  loin  is  the  part  of  the  deer  beginning  at  the  thick  loin  end  and  reaching  as  far  as  the  first 
rib;  remove  the  skin  from  the  sirloin  and  put  the  meat  into  an  earthen  dish  with  a  quart  of 
vinegar  and  two  gills  of  water,  should  the  vinegar  be  too  strong;  adding  whole  peppers,  salt,  bay 
leaf,  thyme  and  parsley  leaves.  Leave  it  to  marinate  for  several  days,  then  lard  with  medium 
lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52);  lay  it  it  in  a  baking  pan,  and  pour  over  some  fat;  cook  in  a  hot  oven  and 
when  three-quarters  done  season  with  pepper,  salt,  pour  over  vinegar,  a  little  broth  and  gravy; 
when  done  dress  and  cover  with  the  skimmed  stock  serving  a  cherry  sauce  (No.  447)  apart. 


666  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2169).   BACK  OF  VENISON,  BOASTED  OOLBEKT   SAUCE    (Carre  de   Chevreuil  Boti,  Sauce 

Colbert). 

Have  two  racks  of  venison  of  seven  ribs  each,  bone,  suppress  the  shine  bone  (see  drawing  for 
rack  of  mutton  Fig.  343);  remove  the  skin  covering  the  meat  and  lard  with  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig. 
52);  put  them  into  a  cold  cooked  marinade  (No.  114)  for  six  hours.  Roast,  dress  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  over  the  well-skimmed  gravy  from  the  dripping  pan,  to  which  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  has  been 
added,  and  surround  with  Marchioness  potatoes  (No.  2797)  serving  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451) 
separately. 

(2170).  VENISON  CUTLETS  A  LA  BUBIDAN  (Cotelettes  de  Chevreuil  a  la  Buridan). 

Have  some  well-pared  cutlets  (see  mutton  cutlets,  No.  1590),  lard  them  on  one  side  only 
with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  all  on  the  same  side  so  that  the  handle  is  on  the  right;  put 
them  in  cold  marinade  for  three  hours.  Make  some  coffeespoon  quenelles  (No.  155)  with  young 
rabbit  and  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  poach  in  boiling  water  and  drain.  Saute  the  cutlets 
in  butter,  drain  it  off  and  replace  it  by  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  a  gill  of  vinegar  to  detach 
the  glaze  from  the  pan,  adding  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414);  allow  it  to  boil  up  once  or  twice  and 
then  strain  through  a  sieve  and  add  the  quenelles;  glaze  the  cutlets  and  garnish  with  paper  frills 
(No.  10).  Dish  up  the  cutlets  in  a  circle,  fill  the  center  with  the  quenelles,  and  serve  the  sauce 
separately.  Garnish  around  with  small  round  croquettes  made  like  croquettes  a  la  trimalcion 
(No.  3016). 

(2171).  VENISON  CUTLETS  A  LA  OAUCHOISE  (Cotelettes  de  Chevreuil  a  la  Cauchoise). 

Cut  and  pare  some  venison  cutlets  and  lay  them  in  a  sauteing  pan  with  clarified  butter; 
saute  on  a  brisk  fire,  then  remove  from  the  pan,  keeping  them  warm;  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little 
white  wine  and  poivrade  sauce  ("No.  523),  roll  the  cutlets  in  this  to  have  them  well  covered,  takf 
out  and  trim  the  handles;  range  them  in  a  circle  and  fill  the  center  with  some  cream  of  game 
(No.  2240),  and  all  around  with  a  garnishing  made  of  cabbage  puree,  mingled  with  egg-yolks  and 
veloute  sauce,  then  poached  in  mousseline  mold  (No.  4,  Fig.  138). 

(2172).  VENISON  OUTLETS  A  LA  HNANCIEBE  (Ootelettes  de  Chevreuil  a  la  Pinanciere), 
Prepare  some  venison  cutlets  the  same  size  as  those  of  mutton  (No.  1590);  lard  them  on  one 
side  only,  but  all  on  the  same  side,  with  the  handles  on  the  right;  put  them  into  a  buttered  sautoir  with 
the  larded  side  uppermost  and  cook  them  in  a  hot  oven;  finally  drain  off  the  butter  from  the  sautoir, 
glaze  the  cutlets  with  a  brush,  trim  them  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  low 
venison  quenelle  forcemeat  border;  fill  the  center  with  a  financiere  garnishing  (No.  667). 

(2173).  VENISON  CUTLETS,  DEVILED  (Cotelettes  de  Chevreuil  a  la  Diable). 
Coat  some  cutlets  with  mustard  and  immerse  them  in  melted  butter;  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and 
broil.  Have  some  shallots  fried  in  butter  and  moisten  them  with  a  light  poivrade  sauce  (No. 
522)  and  game  glaze  (No.  398),  adding  mushrooms,  lean  cooked  ham  cut  in  small  squares  and 
chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  cutlets  crown  shape,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  decorate  the  handle 
bones  with  frills  (No.  10). 

(2174).  VENISON  OUTLETS,  TOMATO  PABISIAN  SAUOE  (Ootelettes  de  Ohevreuil,  Sauce  Tomat, 

Parisienne), 

Pare  some  venison  cutlets,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  saute  in  clarified  butter  or  oil 
over  a  brisk  fire;  when  of  a  fine  color  and  sufficiently  done,  drain  off  the  fat  and  detach  the  glaze 
from  the  pan  with  a  little  white  wine,  adding  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  meat  glaze  (No. 
402).  Dress  the  cutlets  after  trimming  them  with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  intercalating  them  with 
half  heart-shaped  croutons  and  pour  the  sauce  in  the  center;  serve  a  tomato  Parisian  sauce  (No. 
550)  separately. 

(2175).  VENISON  OUTLETS  WITH  CHESTNUT  PUBEE  (OStelettes  de  Ohevreuil  a  la  Purge  de 

Marrons). 

Pare  some  venison  cutlets  the  same  as  mutton  cutlet  No.  1590,  season  with  salt  and  dip  in  oil 
or  melted  butter,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  equalize  the  surfaces  and  broil  to  a  fine  color,  trim  the 
handles  and  dress  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  a  consistent  and  mellow  chestnut  puree  (No. 
712,i;  serve  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  game  fumet  (No.  397). 


GrAMl].  667 

(2176),  EPIGEAMMES  OF  KOEBTTOK,  MAEINADE  SAUCE  WITH  TRUPPLES  (Epigrammes  de 

Ohevreuil,  Sauce  Marinade  aux  Truffes). 

Pare  some  roebuck  cutlets,  put  them  into  a  deep  dish  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  mignonette, 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  parsley  leaves,  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Prepare  a  game  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  91)  with  half  venison  and  half  rabbit  meat,  lay  eight  half  heart-shaped  bottomless  molds, 
they  being  three  and  a  half  inches  long  by  two  wide  and  half  an  inch  high,  on  sheets  of  buttered 
paper,  fill  them  with  the  quenelle  forcemeat  and  poach  lightly  in  a  slack  oven;  as  soon  as 
sufficiently  done  to  bread-crumb,  remove,  unmold  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs, 
smoothing  this  with  the  blade  of  a  knife.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve,  drain  the  cutlets,  wipe 
and  saute  them  in  butter,  fry  the  quenelles  to  a  fine  color,  then  drain  off  the  cutlets,  trim  them 
with  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  alternating  them  with  the  quenelles 
(they  to  be  arranged  with  the  pointed  ends  uppermost),  pour  a  little  marinade  sauce  (No.  496) 
with  Madeira  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  serve  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same,  mingling  into 
it  three  tablespoonfuls  of  truffles  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares. 

(2177),  DEEE  OE  EOEBUCZ  PILLETS  A  LA  LOEENZO  (Filets  de  Daim  on  de  Ohevreuil  &  la 

Lorenzo). 

Pare  two  minion  fillets  of  a  deer  or  a  roebuck;  suppress  the  superficial  skin  covering  them  and 
marinate  for  five  or  six  hours  in  a  little  cooked  marinade  (No.  114),  drain,  lard  the  entire  upper 
surface  with  lardons  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  range  them  on  a  small  buttered  baking  pan,  one  beside 
the  other,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour,  until  well 
done.  Remove  and  cut  them  into  slightly  bias  slices,  and  dress  either  in  a  straight  row  or  else  in 
a  circle,  and  fill  the  sides  or  inside  with  braised  chestnuts  (No.  654),  stuffed  Spanish  olives  (No. 
695),  mushroom  heads,  round,  medium  truffles  and  large  capers;  cover  with  a  Pignola  Italian 
sauce  (No.  520)  and  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  trim  around  with  potato  croquettes  (No.  2782). 

(2178),  EOEBUOK-HAUNOH  OE  QUAETEE-A  LA  BOUOHAED  (Hanche  ou  Quartier  de  Chev- 

reuil  a  la  Bouchard), 

Suppress  all  the  nerves  from  a  good  haunch  of  venison;  lay  it  in  a  cold  cooked  marinade  (No. 
114),  for  two  days,  then  drain,  pare  it  on  the  kernel  end  and  lard  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52), 
range  it  on  the  cradle  spit  (No.  116)  and  let  roast  before  a  good  fire  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
to  an  hour.  Dress  and  garnish  around  with  stuffed  peppers  and  rissoles  of  brain,  Princetown  (No. 
947),  mixed  with  a  chopped  sauce  (No.  539),  serving  pimeutade  sauce  (No.  521)  separately. 

(2179).  EOEBUOE-HAUNOH  OE  QUAETEE-A  LA  LYTTON  (Hanche  ou  Quartier  de  Chevreuil 

a  la  Lytton). 

Choose  a  very  fat  haunch  of  roebuck;  bone  the  thick  loin  end,  sprinkle  salt  over,  and  coat  the 
surfaces  with  butter:  wrap  it  up  in  buttered  paper,  then  in  a  flat  of  paste  made  with  three  pounds 
of  flour  into  which  is  added  an  ounce  of  salt,  three  eggs,  and  just  sufficient  water  to  form  a  very 
firm  dough:  place  this  in  a  wet  cloth,  and  leave  it  for  several  hours,  then  roll  it  out  to  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness;  wrap  it  all  around  the  meat;  fasten  the  two  ends  and  sides  by  wetting  them 
both  and  have  one  overlap  the  other  to  prevent  any  fissure  whatever,  then  cover  it  all  with 
buttered  paper;  lay  it  on  a  cradle  spit  (Fig.  116),  or  else  in  a  moderate  oven  in  a  baking- 
pan.  The  length  of  time  to  cook  it  depends  upon  its  size;  for  a  medium  haunch  of  venison  it 
will  take  two  hours;  deer  require  three  hours.  Remove  the  paper,  brown  the  paste  nicely,  and 
serve  with  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522),  finished  with  currant  jelly  and  cold  sour  apple  marmalade 
(No.  3674). 

(2180),  JUGGED  VENISON  (Civet  de  Chevreuil) 

To  jug  venison  use  the  breasts,  neck,  shoulder,  and  thick  loin  end  (the  shoulder  and  loin  ends 
are  to  be  larded  through  the  meat  with  seasoned  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52).  Cut  the  meats  into  pieces 
an  inch  and  a  half  to  two  inches  square,  and  for  three  pounds  of  it  allow  six  ounces  of  unsmoked 
bacon  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice;  fry  the  whole  in  butter,  and  when  stiffened  dredge  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour;  let  brown  slightly,  then  moisten  with  six  gills  of  red  wine,  and  three  gills  of 
stock  (No.  194a),  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  some  dry  orange 
peel,  a  whole  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt;  cook  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a 


668  THE    EPICUREAN. 

half,  then  put  in  three  dozen  small  onions  fried  in  butter,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  small 
mushrooms;  skim  the  fat  from  the  surface,  and  add  two  gills  of  brandy,  one  gill  of  Madeira,  and 
the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons,  or  else  three  tablespoonfuls  of  good  vinegar.  •  Pile  up  the  meats 
on  a  dish;  season  and  reduce  the  sauce,  suppress  the  parsley,  and  pour  it  over  the  meats;  surround 
with  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  fried  in  oil,  then  serve. 

(2181).  VENISON-SLIOES  OF  KERNEL-A  LA  HUSSAKDE  (Tranches  de  Noix  de  Chevreuil  a  la 

Hussarde). 

Cut  off  some  slices  from  the  kernel  of  a  haunch,  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  pare  into  ovals 
each  one  to  weigh  about  half  a  pound,  and  marinate  in  cold  cooked  marinade  (No.  114)  for  two 
hours;  saute  them  rare  in  butter,  and  dress  on  a  hussarde  sauce  (No.  482). 

(2182).  VENISON-SLIOES  OP  KEENEL-IN  PAPEES  (Tranches  de  Noix  de  Ohevreuil  en 

Papillotes). 

Pare  oval-shaped  some  slices  half  an  inch  thick  cut  from  the  kernel  of  the  haunch;  they  should 
each  weigh  five  ounces  after  being  trimmed;  broil  them  rare,  and  then  wrap  in  heart-shaped 
sheets  of  oiled  paper;  on  top  of  each  slice  lay  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  and  over  this  some  well  sea- 
soned and  thick  Duxelle  (No.  385),  then  close  the  paper,  crimp  it  all  around,  and  lay  them  on  a 
buttered  dish  that  can  be  placed  in  the  oven;  and  on  which  they  should  be  served;  push  it  in  the 
oven  for  a  few  moments  to  serve  when  a  fine  color. 

(2183).  ROEBUCK,  LEG  OF,  A  LA  FRANOATELLI  (Ouissot  de  Chevreuil  a  la  Francatelli). 

Have  a  leg  of  roebuck  weighing  about  ten  pounds;  pare  and  lard  it  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig. 
52),  and  marinate  for  six  hours  in  cold  cooked  marinade  (No.  114);  then  roast  in  the  oven,  bast- 


FIG.  405. 

ing  frequently  with  melted  butter  while  cooking,  this  operation  taking  about  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  an  hour  and  three-quarters;  salt.  Dress,  garnish  around  with  bouchees  (No.  11)  filled  with 
chestnut  pur6e  (No.  712).  Serve  a  venison  sauce  (No.  556)  in  a  sauce-boat.  Hand  around  currant 
jelly  the  same  time  as  the  meat. 

(2184).  MINCED  VENISON  (Emincl  de  Chevreuil). 

Cut  a  piece  of  cooked  saddle  of  venison  into  even-sized  slices;  pare  and  range  them  in  a  small 
sautc\r.  Reduce  the  value  of  two  gills  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  incorporating  into  it  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  the  venison  gravy  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream;  when  this  sauce  becomes  succu- 
lent, finish  it  with  a  dash  of  good  vinegar  and  pour  it  over  the  slices  of  venison.  Heat  these  meatg 
well  over  a  slow  fire  without  allowing  the  sauce  to  boil  and  baste  frequently  with  the  same. 
Dress  the  stew  the  same  as  for  minced  partridge  (No.  2090),  either  inside  a  border  or  else  on  a  dish, 
and  surround  with  fried  Villeroi  quenelles  (No.  733)  or  crusts  of  bread  hollowed  out  and  filled  in 
with  a  cooked  salpicon  of  truffles;  strain  the  sauce  over.  This  mince  may  also  be  surrounded 
with  stuffed  Spanish  olives  (No.  695). 

(2185).  SADDLE  OF  ANTELOPE,  HUNTRESS  STYLE  (Selle  d'Antilope  a  la  Chasseresse). 

Procure  a  fine  thick  saddle  of  antelope;  raise  the  sirloin  from  one  part,  remove  the  skin  and  lard 
with  small  lardons  (No. 3, Fig. 52);  lift  up  the  minion  fillets,  suppress  their  sinews  and  score  with  large 
slices  of  truffles;  pare  the  remainder  of  the  meat  and  chop  it  up  with  as  much  fat  pork,  season  with 
mixed  spices  (No.  168)  and  add  two  eggs.  Make  a  stock  with  the  parings  and  bones  of  the  ante- 
lope. Marinate  the  sirloin  and  minion  fillets  and  cook  them  in  a  brisk  oven.  Make  small  balls  with 


GAMK.  669 

the  chopped  meats;  bread-crumb,  English  style  (No.  13),  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven;  reduce  some 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira  with  the  prepared  stock,  and  when  a  consistent  sauce  is 
obtained,  put  in  the  meat  balls,  whole  chestnuts  and  stuffed  olives  (No.  395).  Prepare  a  bread 
crouton  five  inches  wide,  eight  long  and  two  and  a  half  high;  hollow  it  out  lengthways  on  both 
ends  and  on  each  side  form  semicircles  two  inches  in  diameter;  carve  the  croutons  nicely,  fry 
in  butter,  and  fasten  firmly  to  a  dish.  Out  the  sirloin  up  lengthwise  on  the  bias,  lay  the  pieces 
in  the  hollow  and  the  minion  fillets  in  the  center.  Fasten  a  skewer  garnished  with  cocks'-combs 
and  kidneys  and  crawfish  in  the  middle,  and  one  on  each  of  the  two  ends,  and  around  with 
croustades  garnished  with  the  above  prepared  garnishing.  Serve  a  huntress  sauce  (No.  481) 
with  the  meat. 

(2186),  SADDLE  OF  VENISON  A  L'ATHALIN  (Selle  de  Ohevreuil  a  1'Athalin). 

For  cutting  up  a  venison  saddle  see  Fig.  322.  Pare  a  saddle  of  venison,  removing  the  skin 
covering  the  sirloin;  lard  it  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52)  across  the  grain  of  the  meat  and  marinate 
for  twelve  hours  in  cold  cooked  marinade  (No.  114).  Put  it  in  a  baking  pan  with  bards  of  fat 
pork  on  top  and  the  marinade;  pour  butter  over  and  when  half  cooked  baste  with  more  butter 
and  besprinkle  with  flour.  Set  the  parings  into  a  sautoir  with  a  stalk  of  celery,  onions  containing 
cloves  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  garlic,  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  red  wine 
and  stock  (No.  194a),  boil  and  simmer  for  one  hour,  then  thicken  lightly  with  a  little  kneaded 
butter  (No.  579);  remove  the  saddle  from  the  roasting  pan  and  pour  in  some  gravy  (No.  404)  to 
detach  the  glaze,  then  add  it  to  the  sauce  and  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy,  skim  off  the  fat 
and  place  a  third  of  the  sauce  on  a  dish,  dressing  the  saddle  on  top;  serve  the  remainder 
separately  in  a  sauce-boat  and  some  currant  jelly  on  a  plate. 

(2187).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON  A  LA  MAOMAHON  (Selle  de  Ohevreuil  a  la  MacMahon). 

Pare  and  marinate  a  saddle  the  same  as  for  a  I'Athalin  (No.  2186).  One  hour  before  dinner 
drain  and  roast  it  in  the  oven,  and  when  done  skim  off  the  fat  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  the 
marinade  and  as  much  raw  cream;  reduce  the  sauce,  cut  some  medium-sized  apples  in  quarters, 
range  them  in  a  liberally  buttered  sautoir,  bestrew  with  a  little  powdered  sugar  and  pour  butter 
over,  place  in  the  oven,  and  when  cooked  dress  the  saddle,  glaze  and  pour  over  a  little  gravy  (No. 
404);  range  the  apples  on  each  side  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

(2188).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON  A  LA  MOKTON  (SeUe  de  Ohevreuil  k  la  Morton). 

Pare,  lard  and  roast  a  saddle  of  venison;  as  soon  as  it  is  done  cut  off  the  tenderloin  and  replace 
it  without  deforming  the  meat,  then  pour  over  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  and  garnish  around  with 
macaroni  croquettes,  glazed  turnips,  fried  Jerusalem  artichokes,  boiled  white  beans  and  boiled 
potato  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  size  ;  serve  currant  jelly  apart,  also  a  poivrade  sauce  (No. 
522)  having  a  little  Worcestershire  added  and  the  whole  stirred  with  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter 
(No.  581),  when  ready  to  serve. 

(2389).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON,  TYEOLESE  STYLE  (Selle  de  Ohevreuil  a  la  Tyrolienne). 

Prepare  and  roast  the  saddle  the  same  as  the  one  with  currant  jelly  (No.  2193);  detach  the 
glaze  from  the  pan  with  a  little  port  wine,  a  small  quantity  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  into 
it  put  as  much  currant  jelly,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Lay  the  meat  on  a  long  dish,  pour 
some  good  gravy  (No.  404)  over  and  surround  with  tartlets  of  sour  apple  marmalade  covered 
with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  serve  the  sauce  apart. 

(2190).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON— LAKDED— AIGRELETTE  SAUCE  (Selle  de  Ohevreuil  a  la  Sauce 

Aigrelette), 

Lard  the  saddle  the  same  as  explained  for  saddle  with  currant  sauce  (No.  2193),  put  it  in 
a  dish,  the  minion  fillet  side  uppermost  and  the  larded  side  underneath,  season  with  mignonette, 
cloves,  garlic,  vinegar,  onions,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  lemon  juice;  after  it  has  been  steeping  for  six 
hours,  remove  and  roast  it  in  the  oven  or  on  a  spit  and  dress  on  a  hot  oval  dish;  serve  an 
aigrelette  sauce  (No.  544)  separately. 


070  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2191).  SADDLE  OP  VENISON,  GASTRONOME  (Selle  de  Chevreuil,  Gastronome). 
Trim  and  lard  a  saddle  of  venison;  lay  it  in  a  baking  pan  covered  with  slices  of  fat  pork, 
carrots,  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  white 
wine  and  stock  (No.  194a)  and  cook  in  the  oven,  basting  at  frequent  intervals  with  white  melted 
butter;  when  done  and  of  a  fine  color  cut  it  up  lengthways  of  the  meat  and  reconstruct  it 
as  before,  strain  the  stock,  remove  all  the  fat  and  reduce,  add  Marsala  wine,  serve  the  sauce  sepa 
rately.  Garnish  the  ends  with  mushrooms  or  cepes  and  olives  stuffed  with  anchovies,  and  gas 
tronome  potatoes  (No.  2789;  at  the  ends.  Serve  also  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  with  the  meat. 

(2192).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON-BREADED-BLACK  CHERRY  SAUCE  (Selle  de  Chevreuil  Panee 

Sauce  aux  Cerises  Noires). 

Instead  of  larding  the  saddle,  it  can  be  breaded  when  three-quarters  cooked  by  sprinkling  over 
with  white  bread-crumbs  or  pumpernickel;  pour  on  some  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven.  A  black 
cherry  sauce  (No.  447)  seasoned  with  cinnamon  accompanies  this. 

(2193).  SADDLE  OP  VENISON,  PORT  WINE  SAUCE  AND  CURRANT  JELLY  (Selle  de  Olevreuil 

a  la  Sauce  Oporto  et  a  la  Gelee  de  Groseilles). 

Cut  the  saddle  from  a  roebuck  the  same  as  a  saddle  of  mutton,  leaving  one  rib  adhere  to  the 
end  of  the  loin  on  both  sides;  remove  the  haunch,  cutting  it  off  rounded  or  straight,  while  crossing 
thu  thick  loin  end;  pare  the  surplus  fat  and  remove  the  skin  carefully  that  covers  the  sirloin:  lard 
it  with  two  rows  of  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52)  inserting  them  into  the  meat  across  the  saddle,  and  the 
entire  length  of  the  sirloin.  Roast  it  either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  detach  the  pan,  glaza  with 
a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  strain  this  through  a  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat  and  pour  it  over  the  s«*ddle. 
Serve  separately,  but  at  the  same  time  some  currant  jelly  or  port  wine,  and  jelly  sauce  m^e  by 
dissolving  the  jelly  in  port  wine  and  thickening  it  with  brown  sauce  (No.  414). 

(2194).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON-ROASTED  (Selle  de  Chevreuil  Rotie), 

Unless  the  meat  is  far  advanced  it  is  unnecessary  to  marinate  it;  simply  pare  the  pieceo  and 

suppress  the  skin  so  as  to  be  able  to  lard  the  flesh 
with  larding  pork,  either  crosswise  or  lengthwise,  with 
lardons.  Saddles  and  quarters  of  venison  are  roasted 
either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven,  basting  over  with 
butter.  A  small  saddle  of  venison  takes  forty  mniutes 

FIG  4oo7~  to  cook.     Roasted  venison  is  served  either  with  a  clear 

gravy  (No.  404),  a  brown  sauce   (No.  414)  with  lemon 

juice  added,  or  else  a  sauce  prepared  with  the  stock  it  was  cooked  in,  mingled  with  half-glaze 
(No.  400),  then  reduced  with  raw  cream  and  finished  with  lemon  juice  or  a  dash  of  vinegar. 
Or  it  can  also  be  served  with  currant  jelly  dissolved  in  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  port 
wine. 

(2195).  VENISON  GRENADINS  A  LA  ROYALE-TENDERLOIN  (Grenadins  de  Filet  de  Chevreuil 

a  la  Royale). 

Trim  off  some  grenadins  from  the  minion  fillets,  each  one  to  weigh  five  ounces,  and  pare  into 
half  hearts;  after  removing  the  sinews  lard  with  fine  larding  pork  (No.  4,  Fig.  52),  and  marinate 
for  twelve  hours;  dry,  wipe  and  saut6  in  good  hot  fat;  drain,  glaze  and  dress  in  a  circle,  filling  the 
center  with  potato  quenelles  breaded  and  fried  in  clarified  butter;  serve  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451) 
separately. 

(2196).  VENISON  NOISETTES  A  LA  THIERRY-TENDERLOIN  (Noisettes  de  Filet  de  Ohevreuil  a 

la  Thierry). 

Cut  the  tenderloin  into  slices,  each  to  weigh  four  ounces  when  pared  and  rounded;  lay  them  in 
a  sautoir  with  melted  butter,  season  with  salt,  mignonette,  a  whole  clove  of  garlic  and  a  bay  leaf. 
Just  before  serving  place  the  saucepan  on  a  hot  fire  and  saute"  them  quickly;  lay  each  noisette  on  a 
bread  crouton  fried  in  butter  of  the  same  diameter  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  dress  them  in  a 
circle  and  in  the  center  have  a  garnishing  of  game  quenelles  made  with  a  coffeespoon  (No.  155), 
truffles  cut  in  the  shape  of  crescent  olives  mixed  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  game 
essence  (No.  389)  and  Madeira  wine. 


G-AME.  671 

i2197).  VEUISON  TOUEffEDOS  ST.  HUBEET-TENDEELOIN  (Touraedos  de  Filet  de  Ohevreuil 

St.  Hubert). 

Pare  some  slices  to  weigh  three  ounces  each,  season  and  saute"  them  briskly  in  a  saute"  pan 
with  butter;  drain,  wipe,  glaze  and  dress  on  a  bed  of  soubise  pur<5e  (No.  723);  garnish  around 
with  Spanish  olives  stuffed  with  anchovies.  Serve  separately  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  mixed  with 
grated  horseradish. 

(2198).  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  OAVOUE  (Brasses  a  la  Oavour), 

Cut  six  woodcocks  in  four  each  and  withdraw  the  intestines,  discarding  the  pouch  and  gizzard. 
Fry  the  quartered  birds  in  butter  with  some  truffles,  mushrooms  and  escaloped  sweetbreads; 
moisten  with  a  little  white  wine  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  finely  cut-up  chives.  Fry  also 
the  intestines  in  butter,  with  the  parings,  some  minced  ham,  carrots  and  onions,  mushroom  parings, 
all  well  chopped,  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  wet  with  a  little  white  wine  when  cooked,  press  through 
a  tainrny  and  add  this  pulp  to  the  woodcocks;  moisten  once  more  with  white  wine  and  a  little 
brown  sauce  (No.  414),  despumate  well  and  reduce  to  a  proper  degree;  dress  the  meat  in  a  border 
made  of  risot  (No.  739)  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(2199).  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  DUMAS  (Brasses  a  la  Dumas). 

Pick,  singe  and  truss  eight  woodcocks,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  fresh  butter  and  fry 
over  a  brisk  fire,  adding  chopped  shallots,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  When  the  birds  are  cooked 
drain  off  the  fat,  add  to  their  stock  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  cham- 
pagne and  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  reduce  and  put  in  some  whole  truffles,  cocks'- 
combs  and  kidneys.  Diess  the  woodcocks  on  some  stuffed  crusts  (No.  51)  and  place  the  garnishing 
around. 

(2200).  BEEASTS  OF  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  DIANE  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Brasses  a  la  Diane). 

Raise  the  breasts  from  six  well-cleaned  woodcocks,  remove  all  the  sinews  and  skin  and  stiffen 
them  while  heating  in  a  little  butter;  place  them  under  a  light  weight.  Make  a  dressing  with  the 
intestines,  removing  the  gizzard  and  pouch,  adding  a  little  chicken  liver  and  grated  fat  pork,  chopped 
parsley  and  seasoning;  fill  some  hollow  crusts  with  this,  pour  butter  over  and  poach  in  a  slack 
oven;  on  each  crust  lay  a  woodcock  breast  brushed  with  game  glaze  (No.  398),  then  dress  them 
in  a  circle,  stick  either  a  whole  or  half  head  in  each  crouton  and  fill  the  center  with  olive-shaped 
game  quenelles  (Fig.  83);  cover  with  brown  Perigord  sauce  (No.  516). 

(2201).  BEEASTS  OF  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  HOUSTON  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Brasses  a  la  Houston). 
Fry  quickly  in  butter  six  breasts  of  woodcocks  previously  cleaned,  singed,  and  seasoned;  as  soon 
as  cooked,  drain  them  off.  Cook  the  small  part  of  the  intestines  before  pounding  and  rubbing 
them  through  a  sieve.  Prepare  a  little  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  mix  in  with  it  an  equal 
quantity  of  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64),  and  the  pounded  intestines.  With  this  preparation 
fill  a  smooth  buttered  border  mold  (Fig  139),  having  the  bottom  rounded,  and  poach  it  in  a  bain- 
marie.  Take  a  part  of  the  woodcock  carcasses,  to  make  a  good  fumet  (No.  397),  and  after  it 
has  been  strained  and  the  fat  removed,  incorporate  it  into  a  good  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  while  re- 
ducing, also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira.  When  the  sauce  has  attained  succulence,  strain  it  over 
the  woodcock  breasts,  and  keep  them  in  a  bain-marie.  Fry  quickly  in  a  frying-pan,  with  oil  and 
melted  butter,  half  a  pound  of  peeled  truffles  cut  in  slices  or  in  large  shreds,  season  and  drain  off 
the  fat,  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  and  reduce;  then  add  it  to  the  prepared  breasts, 
and  dress  the  whole  in  the  inside  of  the  border,  unmolded,  on  a  hot  dish. 

(2202).  BEEASTS  OF  WOODCOCKS*  A  LA  MANOELLE  (Ailes  ou  Filets  de  Brasses  a  la  Mancelle). 
First  clean  and  singe  six  woodcocks,  then  roast  them;  remove  all  the  breast  part,  and  cut  off 
the  remainder  of  the  meat  to  pound  with  the  same  quantity  of  rice;  obtain  a  pure"e,  and  combine 
it  with  a  little  espagnole  (No.  414)  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397).  Cut  some  thin  slices  of 
foies-gras,  pare  them  into  ovals,  and  dip  in  flour,  then  fry  in  butter;  dress  the  fillets  alternating 
them  with  the  slices  of  foies-gras;  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No. 
414)  reduced  with  woodcock  fumet  (No.  397)  and  Madeira  wine,  and  to  the  remainder  of  the 
«auce  add  truffles  and  mushrooms  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares,  serving  this  separately. 


672 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  407. 


(2203).  BREASTS  OP  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  VATEL  (Ailes  ou  Pilets  de  Blouses  a  la  Vatel). 
Kaise  the  breasts  from  six  fine  woodcocks,  remove  the  skin  and  sinews,  and  fry  them  in  butter 
over  a  brisk  fire.  Fill  some  heart-shaped  bottomless  molds  with  a  game  quenelle 
forcemeat  made  from  the  woodcocks'  legs  and  parings  and  young  rabbit  meat; 
poach  them  slowly  in  a  slack  oven,  unmold,  cool  off,  and  lay  on  buttered  paper, 
coat  the  tops  with  woodcock  cream  forcemeat,  made  as  game  cream  forcemeat 
(No.  75),  and  dress  the  breasts  two  on  each  crouton;  cover  entirely  with  wood- 
cock cream  forcemeat,  smooth  with  a  knife,  shaping  them  into  hearts,  run  the 
beak  through  from  side  to  side  between  the  forcemeat  and  fillet.  Bestrew 
with  finely  chopped  coral  sifted  through  a  sieve  and  imitate  a  flame  with 
yellow  tinted  game  quenelle  forcemeat  pushed  through  a  cornet,  on  which 
place  thin  fillets  of  tongue.  Pour  butter  o\er  the  whole  and  push  into  a  moderate  oven ;  when 
removed  lay  them  on  top  of  a  sauce  made  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  essence  of  truffles 
(No.  395),  serving  a  financiere  garnishing  (No.  667),  cut  in  salpicon  (No.  741)  apart. 

(2204).  BKOILED  WOODCOCKS  (Brasses  Grilles). 

Split  the  woodcocks  lengthwise  through  the  back;  open  entirely,  beat 
lightly,  pare,  salt,  and  coat  over  with  oil;  broil  them  over  a  brisk  fire  (for  they 
must  be  served  quite  rare)  and  when  done  dress  them  on  oval  toasts  (No.  51); 
cover  entirely  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  581),  and  serve  very  hot, 
surrounding  the  toast  with  sliced  lemon  (No.  113). 

(2205).  WOODCOCKS  ON  CANAPES  A  LA  PEEIGOED  (Brasses  sur  Canape's  a 

la  PSrigord). 

Prepare  some  bread  croutons  three  and  three-quarter  inches  long,  two  and  a  FIG.  408. 

quarter  inches  wide  and  half  an  inch  thick;  cut  off  the  four  corners  and  empty  an 
oblong  square  on  each  side  one  and  three-quarters  inch  long  by  one  inch  wide;  from  each  side  of  the 
middle  remove  a  half  circle  an  inch  in  diameter;  hollow  out  the  center  so  that  when  the  bird  is 
dressed  it  can  stand  upright  on  it;  fry  these  in  butter  and  empty  the  slit.  Chop  up  some  woodcock 
intestines  with  as  much  grated  fat  pork  and  as  much  chicken  liver,  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  add  chopped  parsley,  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  a  few  egg-yolks,  fill  the  hollowed  out 
spaces  on  each  end  of  the  crouton  (Fig.  41)  with  this,  forming  it  into  dome  shape  on  top  and 
push  into  the  oven  with  butter  poured  over.  Cook  some  pieces  of  truffle  with  grated  fat  pork, 
salt,  pepper  and  fine  spices  (No.  168)  and  have  it  get  cold.  First  begin  by  picking,  singeing  and 
cleaning  the  birds  well;  withdraw  the  gizzard,  pouch  and  intestines;  stuff  the  birds  with  the  truffles 
and  truss  well  for  roasting  and  inserting  the  beak  into  the  breast  aperture;  wrap  in  thin  slices  of 
fat  pork,  tying  on  with  three  rounds  of  string;  roast  for  ten  minutes  and  dress  on  the  center  of  the 
croutons;  serve  these  with  a  Madeira  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  essence  of  truffles  (No.  395). 

(2206).  WOODCOCKS  EOASTED  (Becasses  Koties). 

Woodcocks  can  be  roasted  with  their  intestines  or  else  drawn;  the  gizzard  and  pouch  must 

always  be  removed,  but  the  necks  left  on.  Singe  the  birds, 
truss  by  inserting  the  beaks  through  the  legs  (Fig.  409); 
lard  over  and  lay  them  on  the  spit,  roast  for  twelve  to 
sixteen  minutes  before  a  bright  fire,  basting  over  with 
butter  and  laying  pieces  of  bread  in  the  dripping  pan, 
that  is  if  the  birds  are  not  drawn;  if  they  are,  then  cook 
their  intestines  separately  with  melted  fat  pork  and  a  few 

Flo  ^  good  chicken  livers,  finishing  them  the  same  as  the  wood- 

cocks on  canape's  a  la  Perigord  (No.  2205).  After  remov- 
ing the  birds  from  the  spit,  salt  them  over,  dress  on  a  dish  with  the  crusts  and  sliced  lemon 
placed  around;  serve  some  gravy  separately.  The  beak  may  be  stuck  in  the  stomach  in  front  so 
that  in  case  the  bird  is  cut  in  two  the  head  will  be  divided  equally. 

(2207).  SALMIS  OF  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  BEAUMONT  (Salmis  de  Becasses  a  la  Beaumont). 

Roast  five  whole  woodcocks,  remove  the  intestines  and  cut  each  bird  into  five  pieces,  suppress 
all  the  skin  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir.  Pound  the  parings  and  carcasses,  place  the  puree  in  a 
saucepan  with  three  finely  cut  up  shallots  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf. 
Moisten  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  red  or  white  wine  or  else  champagne  according  to  taste;  reduce 


G-AME.  673 

to  half,  then  add  a  pint  of  espagnole  (No.  414);  let  simmer  on  the  side  of  the  range  for  half  an 
hour,  being  careful  to  remove  all  vestige  of  fat  and  scum  as  fast  as  it  arises  to  the  surface;  pass 
the  sauce  through  a  tammy  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  one,  adding  some  peeled  and 
cut  up  truffles  or  mushrooms,  or  even  both.  Dress  the  woodcock  on  a  dish  and  surround  with  the 
truffles  or  mushrooms;  garnish  around  with  hollow  crusts  filled  with  the  intestines,  as  much  chicken 
liver  and  half  as  much  grated  fat  pork  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley;  then 
poach  in  the  oven. 

(2208).  SALMIS  OP  WOODCOCKS  A  LA  SANDFOKD  (Salmis  de  Brasses  &  la  Sandford), 
Roast  six  woodcocks  very  rare;  cut  them  in  four,  lift  off  all  the  skin  and  place  the  birds  in  an 
alcohol  chafing  dish;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  add  a  little  blanched  shallot,  three  gills  of  wine,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little  fresh  bread  raspings  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter;  simmer  for  a  few 
moments,  then  serve. 

(2209).  WOODCOCKS  STUFFED  (Brasses  Farcies), 

Bone  three  woodcocks,  remove  the  best  part  of  their  breast  meat  and  cut  these  into  large  dice;  lay 
them  in  a  vessel  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of  truffles  and  as  much  foies-gras;  season  these  meats,  and 
pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira.  Pound  the  leg  meats  with  those  of  three  wild  pigeons  or 
as  much  of  rabbit,  adding  a  third  as  much  panada  (No.  121),  and  four  egg-yolks;  season  and  strain  this 
forcemeat.  Melt  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  fat  pork,  add  to  it  the  woodcock  intestines,  also  five 
or  six  good  chicken  livers,  season  highly  and  leave  stand  till  cold,  then  strain  and  mix  the  forcemeat 
with  this,  also  the  meats  and  truffles  laid  away  in  the  vessel.  Fill  the  woodcock  with  this  prepa- 
ration, shaping  each  one  to  resemble  a  boned  turkey,  and  wrap  a  piece  of  fat  pork  around;  attach 
them  firmly  in  separate  pieces  of  thin  muslin,  tying  it  on  tight  to  keep  them  in  proper  shape,  then 
cook  in  some  good  stock  on  a  moderate  fire  for  one  hour;  leave  them  in  this  partly  cold,  then  drain, 
unwrap,  and  tie  them  up  again  tight  until  thoroughly  cold,  keeping  them  in  shape,  but  not  under 
the  pressure  of  any  weight.  Unwrap  them  half  an  hour  before  serving,  stand  them  upright  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  of  their  own  stock,  reduced  to  a  half  glaze;  heat  them  in  a  very  slack  oven, 
basting  over  frequently,  then  dress  them  in  a  triangle  on  a  forcemeat  border,  poached  in  the  oven 
and  turned  out  on  a  dish,  having  fastened  to  the  center  a  portion  of  bread  covered  with  some  of 
the  forcemeat.  Place  in  the  angles  the  three  birds'  heads,  slightly  cooked  and  glazed  over  with  a 
brush;  fasten  three  skewers  garnished  with  truffles  in  the  summit  of  the  pad  and  cover  the  wood- 
cock, and  border  lightly  over  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  prepared  with  the  stock  and  the  truffle 
parings. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


MISCELLANEOUS 


(2210).  BOEDEE  OP  CHICKEN  FOECEMEAT  FILLED  WITH  CHICKEN  BLANQUETTE  A  LA 

TOULOUSE  (Bordure  de  farce  de  Volatile  Garnie  d'une  Blanquette  de  Poulet  a  la  Toulouse). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  six  young,  fat  chickens;  roll  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir.     "With  the  leg 

meats  prepare  a  chicken  and  rice  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  79).     Have  a  fancy  border  mold,  butter 

n  and  fill  it  up  with  the  forcemeat,  place  this  border  in  a  sautoir  and  poach  for  half  an  hour. 


FIG.  410. 

Pare  the  fillet  pieces,  saute  them  in  butter,  drain  this  off  and  replace  it  by  fat  bechamel  (No. 
409),  and  minced  truffles  added  to  it;  keep  it  warm  in  a  bain-marie.  Trim  a  dozen  truffles  into 
round  shapes  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  cook  them  in  a  little  Madeira,  add  some  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  and  put  into  a  bain-marie.  Unmold  the  border,  dress  the  chicken  blanquette 
in  the  center.  Cover  with  a  Toulouse  garnishing  (No.  766),  and  on  the  top  of  the  garnishing 
arrange  the  prepared  truffles. 

(2211).  BOEDEE  OP  FISH  FOECEMEAT  A  LA  DUCHESS  WITH  CEAWFISH  TAILS  AND 

f 
MOEILS  (Bordure  de  Farce  de  Poisson  a  la  Duchesse  aux  Queues  d'Ecrevisses  et  Morilles). 

Prepare  a  not  too  light  cream  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76)  with  some  pike  meat;  also  prepare  a  plen- 
tiful garnishing  with  good  morils  blanched  and  cooked,  unshelled  crawfish  tails,  slices  from  the  tails 
of  small  freshly  cooked  lobsters,  and  poached  oysters;  lay  all  of  these  in  a  flat  saucepan,  and  keep 
covered.  Half  an  hour  before  serving  fill  a  fancy  border  mold  with  the  prepared  forcemeat,  and 


FIG.  411. 

poach  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  bain-marie.  Besides  this  put  on  to  reduce  three  gills  of  veloute" 
sauce  (No.  415),  incorporating  into  it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  court  bouillon  (No.  38),  and  the 
oyster  and  crawfish  broth;  when  this  sauce  becomes  succulent,  strain  it  over  the  garnishing,  heat 
up  without  boiling,  and  finish  with  a  piece  of  red  butter  (No.  580).  At  the  last  moment  turn  the 
border  over  on  a  hot  dish  and  fill  the  center  with  the  garnishings,  dressing  them  in  a  doms 
without  any  sauce;  on  this  lay  four  pretty  cooked  crawfish,  having  them  whole,  only  the  tails 
being  shelled;  place  a  small  round  truffle  on  the  summit,  and  serve  the  sauce  apart. 

(675) 


676 


TFLE    EPICUREAN. 


(2212),  BOEDEE  OP  EISOT  VALENCIENNES  (Sordino  Is  Eisot  Valenciennes). 

Blanch  and  cook  six  beef  palates  in  a  good  mirepoix  stock  (No.41{/),  drain  and  leave  them  to  cool 
under  a  weight,  pare  and  cut  up  into  large  Julienne;  lay  these  in  a  sautoir  with  three  gills  of  Madeira 
•sauce,  simmer  on  a  slow  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  when  very  tender  add  half  the  quantity 


FIG.  412. 

of  freshly  cooked  truffles  cut  like  the  fillets.  Have  a  good  risot  prepared  with  about  a  half 
pound  of  Piedmontese  rice  (No.  739);  as  soon  as  done  remove  and  mix  in  one  spoonful  of  sweet 
Spanish  pepper  reduced  to  a  pulp;  cover  the  saucepan  and  keep  it  for  five  to  six  minutes  on  the 
side  of  the  range  and  then  finish  with  butter  and  grated  parmesan;  season  to  taste.  With  this 
rice  fill  a  buttered  border  mold,  as  shown  in  the  cut,  place  it  for  a  few  moments  in  the  heater  to 
harden,  then  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  fill  the  center  with  beef  palate  preparation;  serve  at  once. 


(2213).  BOEDEE  OP  EISOT  OF  LOBSTEES  OE  SPINY  LOBSTEES  (Bordure  de  Eisot  de  Homards 

ou  de  Langoustes). 

Boil  two  good  lobsters  or  spiny  lobsters  in  a  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  419),  drain,  and  five 
to  six  minutes  later  detach  the  tails  from  the  body  and  keep  them  warm  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  their 
liquor.  Cook  four  or  five  uniform-sized  peeled  truffles  in  Madeira  wine,  cut  them  up  in  broad 
slices  of  an  inch  thickness  and  keep  them  warm  in  a  saucepan  with  their  own  broth  that  has  been 
strained  and  mixed  with  a  little  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  With  half  a  pound  of  good  Pied- 
montese  rice  prepare  a  risot  (No.  739)  cooked  with  plain  fish  broth  (No.  195)  and  a  small  spoonful 
of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168);  as  soon  as  done  finish  with  fine  butter  and  fresh  parmesan;  mold 


FIG.  418. 

it  in  a  buttered  border  mold,  as  shown  in  the  cut,  and  keep  it  slightly  warm.  Split  two  lobster  bodies, 
take  out  all  the  creamy  parts,  press  through  a  sieve  and  lay  it  aside.  Chop  half  of  the  shells,  fry 
them  in  oil  for  a  few  moments  and  sprinkle  with  a  pinch  of  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  then  moisten 
with  two  or  three  gills  of  good  court-bouillon  and  white  wine  (No.  419);  cook  slowly  for  ten  to 
twelve  minutes,  strain  the  liquid,  free  it  of  fat  and  reduce  to  a  half-glaze;  thicken  with  a  gill  and 
a  half  of  good  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  and  reduce  it  once  more  for  a  few  moments,  then  remove 
from  the  fire  and  finish  with  two  spoonfuls  of  the  creamy  parts  from  the  bodies,  add  some 
butter,  stir  vigorously  and  lastly  put  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  the  reduced  truffle  broth. 
Suppress  the  tail  shells  hastily,  pare  the  meats,  trim  off  the  thin  ends  and  cut  all  the  pieces  in  not 
too  thick  slices;  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  and  cover  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  sauce  buttered  at  the 

very  last  momer Unmold  the  border  on  a  hot  dish  and  in  the  center  place  the  slices  of  lobster 

and  the  truffles  in  a  pyramidical  form;  pour  part  of  the  sauce  over,  serving  what  remains  in  a 
separate  sauce-boat. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  677 

(2214).  EOUDINS  OF  CHICKEN  A  L'EOAKLATE  (Boudins  de  Volaille  a  1'E'carlate), 
This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  low  rice  croustade  (Fig.9a)  slightly  hollowed  on  top.  First  cook  two 
small  red  beef  tongues  in  boiling  water  with  the  pared  meats  taken  from  a  large  raw  chicken,  pre- 
pare a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  keeping  it  rather  firm;  season  tastily  and  smooth  by  working  it 
with  a  spoon,  then  finish  by  incorporating  in  slowly  some  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced  with 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms  until  it  becomes  succulent  and  thick,  but  do  not  pass  it  through  a  sieve. 
After  the  sauce  is  well  mixed  with  the  forcemeat  divide  it  into  seven  or  eight  equal  parts  and  roll, 
these  into  pieces,  two  and  a  half  inches  long  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  on  a  floured 
table,  press  them  down  a  little  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  to  decrease  their  thickness.  Range  these 
boudins  as  soon  as  done  one  beside  the  other  on  a  lightly  buttered  raised-edge  baking  tin  and 
cover  with  salted  hot  water,  then  heat  the  liquid  until  the  forcemeat  hardens.  Drain  the  boudins 
on  a  cloth,  pare  them  evenly  and  dip  them  in  beaten  egg-whites,  then  in  white  bread-crumbs. 
Now  drain  the  tongues,  cut  them  into  lengthwise  slices  not  too  thin,  and  pare  them  at  once,  giving 
them  an  oval  shape,  then  cutting  them  lengthwise  through  the  center:  roll  them  in  a  sautoir  with 
half-glaze  (No.  400)  so  as  to  cover  them  lightly  and  dress  them  in  a  row,  alternating  each  one 
with  a  boudin;  cover  these  with  a  little  good  reduced  veloute  (No.  415)  mixed  with  a  montglas 
composed  of  chicken  with  half  as  many  truffles  and  mushrooms  cut  in  fillets.  Surround  the  base 
with  a  chain  of  small  round  truffles  glazed  over  with  a  brush.  Send  to  the  table  at  the  same  time 
a  sauce-boat  of  veloute  sauce. 

(2215).  BOUDINS  OP  CHICKEN  A  LA  SOUBISE  (Boudins  de  Volaille  a  la  Soubise), 

Have  half  a  pound  of  leaf  lard  chopped  up  very  finely,  add  to  it  one  ounce  of  soaked  and 
pressed  bread-crumbs,  pound  the  two  together,  then  press  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  into  a  bowl 
with  half  a  pound  of  raw  chicken  meat  minced  very  finely,  mingle  well  together  and  gradually  add 
half  a  pint  of  soubise  onion  puree  (No.  723),  nine  raw  egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raw 
truffles  (if  obtainable),  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  and  with  this  preparation  fill  some 
ready  prepared  sheep's  casings  three  inches  long  and  one  inch  in  diameter,  not  too  full,  throw  them 
into  boiling  water,  remove  them  almost  immediately  and  prick  them  with  a  larding  needle,  then 
broil  them  over  a  very  slow  fire;  serve  a  soubise  sauce  (No.  543)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(2216).  BOUDINS  OP  CHICKEN  AU  CAEDINAL  (Boudins  de  Volaille  au  Cardinal). 
Prepare  a  consistent  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  75),  cut  half  of  a  medium-sized  onion  into  small  one- 
eighth  inch  squares,  blanch,  refresh  and  drain,  then  fry  them  colorless  in  butter,  stirring  continuously; 
drain  well  and  mix  this  with  the  forcemeat.  Butter  sixteen  molds  the  shape  of  the  half  of  a  small 
boudin  (this  shape  is  well  shown  in  the  quenelles,  Fig.  81),  three  and  five-eighths  inches  long  by 
one  and  three-eighths  inches  wide.  Scatter  some  finely  chopped  lobster  coral  over  the  iusides 
of  these  molds  and  fill  them  up  with  the  forcemeat,  leaving  an  empty  space  in  the  center;  fill 
this  with  a  salpicon  composed  of  truffles,  red  beef  tongue  and  mushrooms  cut  in  three-sixteenths 
inch  squares  and  mingled  with  some  well-reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  After  they  are 
ready  place  eight  on  top  of  the  other  eight,  the  salpicon  to  be  in  the  center;  twenty  minutes 
before  serving  lay  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  one  beside  the  other,  pour  some  boiling  water  over 
and  poach  without  boiling,  then  drain  and  unmold  on  a  napkin.  Dress  them  in  a  row  on  a  dish, 
one  close  to  the  other,  on  a  lobster  sauce  (No.  488),  buttered  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  serve 
some  of  the  same  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat  and  throw  over  some  chopped  lobster  coral. 

(2217).  BOUDINS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  MONTEBELLO  SAUCE  (Boudins  de  Volaille  a  la  Sauce 

Montebello). 

Put  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  into  a  vessel;  smooth  and 
mix  in  a  quarter  as  much  salpicon  ot  truffles  and  cooked  foies-gras.  Lift  the  forcemeat  with  a 
tablespoon  and  push  it  with  the  finger  to  have  it  fall  on  a  floured  table;  roll  these  pieces  into 
sausage  shapes,  flatten  a  little  on  both  sides  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  then  range  them  at  once  in  small 
quantities  on  a  smooth  and  floured  saucepan  lid  without  once  handling  them.  Place  a  saute  pan 
on  the  fire  with  water,  salt  it  when  it  reaches  boiling  point,  then  slide  in  the  boudins,  boil  up  once 
and  remove  to  the  side  of  the  range,  leaving  in  the  boudins  until  the  forcemeat  hardens,  then  lift 
them  out  with  a  skimmer  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  one  next  to  the  other,  to  wipe  and  pare  lightly. 
Dip  them  into  beaten  egg,  roll  in  fresh  white  bread-crumbs  and  place  them  on  the  bottom  of  a 
sautoir  with  clarified  butter  to  brown  both  sides  while  turning  them  over  carefully;  drain  and  dish 
in  a  circle  on  a  Montebello  sauce  (No.  502). 


678  THE 

(2218).  BOUDINS  OF  GAME  A  LA  BERCHOUX  (Boudins  de  Gibier  a  la  Berchoux). 

Cook  on  a  slow  fire  half  a  pound  of  chopped  leaf  lard  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped 

onions,  and  let  get  cold.     Have  half  a  pound  of  cooked  and  finely  chopped  game  meat  and  seven 

ounces  of  soaked  and  well-pressed  bread-crumbs;  pound  both  of  these  together  and  pass  through  a 

sieve;  put  it  into  a  bowl  and  mix  in  gradually  the  onions  and  lard,  also  two  gills  of  bechamel  sauce 

(No.  409),  seven  raw  egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  truffles,  some  salt, 

•  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  nutmeg.     Fill  some  ready  prepared  sheep's  casings,  three  inches 

long  and  one  inch  wide,  with  this  preparation — not  too  full — and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water; 

prick  them  with  a  larding  needle,  and  then  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire.     Serve  a  Berchoux  sauce 

(No.  434)  separately. 

(2219).  BOUDINS  OP  GAME  OE  CHICKEN  BLOOD  A  LA  VICTORIA  (Boudins  de  Sang  de  Gibier 

ou  de  Sang  de  Volatile  a  la  Victorin). 

Collect  a  pint  of  blood  either  from  a  hare,  rabbit  or  chicken,  stir  into  it  a  little  vinegar  to  pre- 
vent coagulation;  cut  half  as  much  breast  of  fat  pork  as  there  is  blood  into  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch  squares,  fry  these  in  butter  with  a  little  chopped  onion  and  mix  in  the  blood,  or  else  fry  the 
onion  in  butter  and  stir  into  the  blood  some  cooked  veal  udder  instead  of  the  fat  pork,  a  little 
apple  marmalade,  and  mix  together;  season  well  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  sugar  and  cream.  With 
this  preparation  fill  some  sheep's  casings  one  inch  in  diameter;  when  filled,  but  not  too  tight, 
divide  them  in  three-inch  lengths,  tying  the  ends;  poach,  drain  and  when  cold  rub  them  over  with 
lard;  prick  and  broil  them  on  a  slow  fire  and  serve  plain  without  any  sauce. 

(2220).  BOUDINS  OP  KINGFISH  A  LA  PONIATOWSKI  (Boudins  de  Kingfish  a  la  Poniatowski). 
Prepare  a  quenelle  forcemeat  of  kingfish  (No.  90),  into  which  add  an  eighth  of  its  quantity  of 
chopped  truffles;  roll  them  into  round  pieces  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  two  and 
a  half  inches  long;  wrap  each  one  separately  in  buttered  paper,  then  poach  in  boiling  salted 
water;  drain,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Drain  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin; 
serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  Polish  sauce  (No.  524). 

(2221).  BOUDINS  OF  SALMON  WITH  SHRIMPS  (Boudins  de  Saumon  aux  Crevettes). 

Prepare  one  pound  of  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  made  with  salmon  (No.  90).  Butter  some  bou- 
din  molds  the  same  as  for  boudins  of  chicken  au  cardinal  (No.  2216)  and  garnish  the  sides  with 
the  delicately  prepared  salmon  forcemeat,  adding  to  it  four  ounces  of  fresh  mushrooms,  and  two 
ounces  of  truffles,  both  cut  into  eighth  of  an  inch  square  bits;  lay  one  mold  on  top  of  the  other, 
and  set  them  in  a  sautoir  close  together;  pour  over  boiling  water,  and  put  them  to  poach  in  a  slack 
oven;  unmold  and  dress  them  on  a  well-buttered  Normande  sauce  (No.  509). 

(2222).  SKEWERS  OF  CHICKEN  LIVERS,  COLBERT  SAUCE  (Brochettes  de  Foies  de  Poulet, 

Sauce  Colbert). 

Cut  up  into  one-inch  squares  some  chicken  livers;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  run  them 
on  to  metal  skewers  (Fig.  176),  intercalating  each  piece  with  a  thin  one-inch  square  of  bacon;  coat 
over  with  oil  or  melted  butter,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire;  dress  them  on  a 
Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 

(2223).    SKEWERS  OP  LAMPREYS,  MARINADE  SAUCE  (Brochettes  de  Lamproies,  Sauce 

Marinade). 

Skin  a  fine  lamprey,  clean  well  and  cut  off  the  head,  also  the  thin  tail  end,  then  divide 
it  into  quarter-inch  pieces;  lay  these  in  a  tureen  with  sliced  onions,  parsley,  a  clove  of  garlic,  truffle 
peelings,  aromatic  herbs,  allspice,  salt  and  a  little  brandy,  and  let  macerate  for  a  few  hours  in  a 
cool  place,  tossing  them  about  at  short  intervals;  when  sufficiently  steeped  drain  them  off  and 
wipe  dry;  run  an  iron  skewer  (Fig.  176)  through,  alternating  each  slice  with  one  of  fresh,  fat  salt 
pork.  Set  these  brochettes  on  a  baking  sheet,  pour  a  little  butter  over  and  cook  them  in  the 
oven,  basting  frequently  with  more  melted  butter.  Add  to  the  marinade  two  gills  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  414),  as  well  a«  half  a  pint  of  stock  (No.  194a);  remove  all  scum  rising  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  while  standing  it  on  the  side  of  the  range;  remove  all  its  fat 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  679 

and  afterward  strain  the  sauce,  pour  into  it  half  a  glassful  of  Marsala  wine,  reduce  again  for  ten 
minutes,  keeping  it  in  a  bain-marie  (Fig.  122).  When  the  pieces  of  fish  are  cooked,  take  them  from 
the  oven,  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt  and  dress  on  a  dish,  surrounding  them  with  cut-up 
lemons,  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

(2224).  BROOEETTES  OP  LOBSTEKS  (Brochettes  de  Homard). 

Plunge  some  live  lobsters  in  boiling  water  just  sufficiently  long  to  easily  detach  the  meat  from 
the  shells;  drain  them,  and  break  the  tail  shells  so  as  to  obtain  all  the  meat  contained  therein;  cut 
this  up  into  transversal  slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  season  them  highly  with  salt  and 
prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  immerse  them  in  melted  butter,  and  run  skewers  (Fig.  176)  through 
the  pieces,  alternating  each  one  with  slices  of  cooked  mushrooms;  lay  them  again  in  butter,  and 
broil  them  over  a  steady  fire  for  twelve  to  fourteen  minutes.  Dress  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over 
some  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451);  serve  very  hot. 

(2225).  OYSTER  BROOHETTES  (Brochettes  aux  Huitres). 

Poach  lightly  some  large  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  pare,  and  lay  them 
in  a  deep  plate,  season  and  mix  them  with  some  fine  herbs  cooked  with  truffles  (No.  385)  and  a 
pinch  of  sweet  peppers;  cover  the  oysters  with  oil,  and  roll  them  in  this  seasoning.  Kun  them  one 
by  one  on  small  skewers  (Fig.  176),  alternating  each  with  slices  of  cooked  mushrooms;  brush  them 
Over  with  melted  butter,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  them  for  six  or  seven  minutes, 
turning  them  frequently,  then  dress  them  at  once. 

Brochettes  the  same  as  the  above  are  prepared  by  wrapping  each  seasoned  oyster  in  a  thin 
slice  of  bacon,  or  else  alternating  each  oyster  with  a  square  of  bacon;  run  the  skewers  through  both 
and  cook  them  over  a  hot  fire. 

(2226).  BROOHETTES  OP  SWEETBREADS  (Brochettes  de  Ris  de  Veau), 

Blanch  the  sweetbreads,  suppress  the  windpipes  and  fat  and  place  them  under  a  weight  to 
reduce  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch;  when  cold  cut  them  lengthwise 
into  slices  an  inch  square;    cut  these  into  pieces  three-eighths    of 
an   inch    thick;  season  with  salt,   pepper,  oil  and  chopped  parsley; 
run  each  square  on  small  silver  skewers  (Fig.  176),  alternating  them 

with  a  thin  piece  of  bacon  cut  an  inch  square;  besprinkle  with  white  bread-crumbs  and  broil  over  a 
slow  fire  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes,  having  all  four  sides  equally  cooked.  Dress  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  maitre  d'hotel  butter  over  (No.  581)  and  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon. 

(2227).  OASES  A  LA  MONTGLAS-SMALL  (Petites  Oaisses  a  la  Montglas). 

Cut  some  chicken  fillets  into  fine  Julienne,  also  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue;  put  on  the  fire  to 
reduce  two  gills  of  good  espagnole  (No.  414),  incorporating  into  it  slowly  the  truffle  broth,  and  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  Madeira  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402) ;  it  should  be  succulent  and  thick,  then  throw  in 
the  Julienne,  and  remove  the  saucepan  at  once  from  the  fire,  to  allow  the  contents  to  cool  off. 
With  some  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  73),  mingled  with  a  little  raw  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89), 
line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  about  fifteen  china  cases,  making  a  hole  in  the  center  of  each;  into 
this  place  a  little  of  the  prepared  montglas,  and  cover  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  smoothing  it 
down  with  the  blade  of  a  small  knife.  Range  the  cases  on  a  baking  sheet  containing  a  little 
hot  water  and  keep  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes  in  order  to  poach  the 
forcemeat  and  montglas.  After  removing  the  cases  cover  the  tops  with  a  layer  of  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492),  and  return  them  to  the  oven  for  two  minutes  to  have  them  attain  a  glossy  appearance. 
Dress  in  a  circle  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  the  center  with  a  layer  of  very  green  parsley  leaves. 

(2228).  CASES  OF  ENGLISH  SNIPE  A  LA  OAREME  (Oaisses  de  Be~cassines  Anglaises  a  la  Oareme). 
Bone  nine  snipe  thoroughly  after  they  have  been  well-singed  and  cleaned ;  fill  them  with  game 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  into  which  mix  a  little  Madeira  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  lay  them 
in  oval  molds  the  size  of  the  inside  of  the  paper  cases  in  which  they  are  to  be  served,  and  cover  with 
slices  of  fat  pork;  cock  them  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Oil  a  sufficient  number  of  paper  cases, 
turn  them  over  on  to  a  grater  and  stiffen  in  the  oven;  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  delicate 
game  forcemeat  (No.  75),  into  which  mix  some  chopped  truffles.  Lay  the  unmolded  snipe  in 


680  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

the  center,  reconstruct  the  heads  naturally,  frnitating  the  eyes  with  a  little  white  forcemeat,  and  a 
small  round  of  truffle;  push  the  beak  on  the  neck  end  leaving  only  the  head  protrude,  then  place 
the  cases  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  cover  with  a  round  of  buttered  paper,  and  push  into  the  oven  to 
poach  the  forcemeat;  drain  off  all  the  fat,  and  cover  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  made  with  a 
game  essence  (No.  389)  extracted  from  the  carcasses,  and  some  Madeira  wine. 

(2229).  OASES  WITH  FAT  LIVERS— SMALL  (Petites  Oaisses  de  Foies-Gras). 

Cut  into  small  escalops  half  of  a  large  cooked  fat  liver;  put  it  into  a  small  sautoir  with  an  equal 
bulk  of  escalops  of  cooked  truffles  cut  the  same  size  as  the  livers;  moisten  these  with  a  little  good, 
thick  sauce  reduced  with  Madeira;  let  simmer  without  boiling  for  seven  or  eight  minutes,  then 


FIG.  415. 

take  it  off  and  leave  to  cool  partly.  With  this  stew  fill  eight  or  ten  china  cases,  cover  the  tops 
quickly  with  a  thick  layer  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89),  smooth  nicely,  and  then  range  the  cases 
on  a  small  baking  sheet.  Poach  the  forcemeat  in  a  slack  oven,  warming  the  stew  at  the  same  time, 
and  finally  cover  the  surface  of  the  forcemeat  with  a  little  cold  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  applied  with 
a  brush;  return  to  the  oven  for  two  minutes  to  gloss  the  sauce,  and  then  dress  the  cases  pyramid- 
ically  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2230).  OASES  OF  LAKES  OR  SNOW  BIRDS  (Oaisses  d'Alouettes). 

Bone  thoroughly  one  dozen  snow  birds  or  larks ;  put  the  intestines  into  a  pan  with  grated  fat  pork, 
a  few  chicken  livers  and  a  few  foies-gras  parings,  fry  over  a  quick  fire,  season  and  mix  in  some  mush- 
room peelings.  When  this  preparation  is  cold,  pound  and  press  it  through  a  sieve,  then  mix  in 
with  it  twelve  ounces  of  chopped  and  pounded  fat  pork,  four  ounces  of  chopped  and  pounded  lean 
pork,  pound  all  together  and  pass  through  a  sieve.  Take  out  a  third  part  and  divide  the  other 
two-thirds  into  twelve  parts  and  fill  the  birds  with  them;  roll  them  up  into  balls,  range  them  on  the 
bottom  of  a  saucepan  and  brush  over  with  a  little  melted  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  Madeira  wine, 
cook  them  quickly  for  a  few  minutes  to  stiffen,  then  remove.  Oil  twelve  small  oval  paper  cases, 
having  them  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  by  two  inches  long;  drain  and  set  them  on  the  grater  to 
stiffen  in  the  oven;  cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  (No.  73),  set  a  bird 
on  top  of  each  case,  range  them  on  a  small  baking  sheet,  push  into  a  slack  oven  and  a  few  moments 
later  baste  the  birds  with  a  little  melted  game  glaze  (No.  398);  remove  them  five  minutes  after, 
dress  on  a  dish  and  brush  over  with  some  good  reduced  sauce. 

(2231).  OASES  OF  OYSTERS  A  LA  HILTON  (Oaisses  d'Huitres  a  la  Hilton). 

Prepare  and  line  the  cases  exactly  as  for  Lorenzo  (No.  2232);  fill  them  with  small  oysters  after 
removing  the  muscle  or  ligament,  cover  over  fine  herbs  cooked  dry  (No.  385),  and  finish  with  a 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  reduced  with  the  oyster  liquor,  well  seasoned;  besprinkle  with  fried  bread- 
crumbs, brown  in  a  hot  oven  and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(2232).  OASES  OF  OYSTERS  A  LA  LORENZO  (Oaisses  d'Huitres  k  la  Lorenzo). 

Either  buttered  metal  or  china  cases  may  be  used  for  these,  or  else  buttered  paper  ones  stif- 
fened in  the  oven;  cover  their  bottoms  and  sides  with  a  thin  layer  of  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
90),  mixed  with  some  soubise  puree  (No.  723).  Poach  medium-sized  oysters  in  their  own 
liquor  and  white  wine;  drain  and  pare  them,  cut  them  up  into  pieces  half  an  inch  in  size,  and  use 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  681 

these  to  fill  in  the  cases;  set  on  top  some  mushrooms  that  have  been  chopped  up  raw,  fried   in 
butter,  then  covered  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  the  oyster  liquor  and  finished  with 


FIG.  410. 


a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  and  a  dash  of  cayenne;  cover  over  with  a  layer  of  the  same  force- 
meat, smooth  and  moisten  the  tops  with  a  brush  dipped  in  melted  butter;  range  the  cases  on  a 
baking  sheet,  and  set  them  in  a  slack  oven  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes,  then  serve. 


(2233).  OASES  OF  QUAILS  A  LA  DEJAZET  (Oaisses  de  Oailles  a  la  Dejazet). 

Bone  thoroughly  some  well-cleaned  quails,  open  them  on  a  cloth,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, cover  the  inside  meats  with  a  layer  »f  game  forcemeat  (No.  91)  with  chopped  truffles  added  and 
envelop  the  forcemeat,  forming  them  in  the  shape  of  an  egg,  and  lay  them  inside  of  bottomless  oval 
molds  of  the  same  size  as  the  paper  cases  in  which  they  are  to  be  served;  set  the  molds  on  a  baking 
sheet,  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  moisten  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  and  cook 
in  a  hot  oven.  Mask  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  paper  cases  previously  oiled  and  stiffened  with  a 
thin  layer  of  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  and  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  forcemeat  (No.  73), 
both  well  mixed  together;  put  the  quails  in  the  center  and  push  into  the  oven  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  then  cover  with  a  salmis  sauce  (No.  536),  mixed  with  the  strained  and  skimmed  braise 
stock. 


(2234).  OASES  OP  SQUABS  A  LA  POLSOM  AND  CASES  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  UMBEETO  (Oaisses 
de  Pigeonneaux  k  la  Polsom  et  Oaisses  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Umberto). 

Pluck  well  all  the  pin  feathers  from  some  drawn,  singed  and  cleaned  squabs;  bone  them  en- 
tirely, beginning  by  making  an  incision  in  the  meat  on  the  back  and  following  the  line  down  on 
each  side  with  the  help  of  a  small  knife;  remove  the  breast  and  wing  bones,  then  fill  the  inside 
with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  89)  into  which  has  been  mingled  mushrooms  and  truffles 
chopped  up  fine,  fried  in  butter  and  wetted  with  a  little  Madeira.  Oil  the  insides  of 
some  paper  cases,  turn  them  upside  down  on  a  baking  pan,  push  them  into  the  oven  to  stiffen  and 
then  cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  a  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat;  set  the  squabs  on  top,  one  on 
each,  and  cover  with  a  slice  of  fat  pork;  cook  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  the 
fat  and  dress  the  cases  in  a  circle,  having  on  top  of  each  one  a  channeled  mushroom  head  (No.  118); 
pour  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  over  that  has  been  reduced  with  some  mushroom  essence  (No.  392). 

Cases  of  Squabs  a,  la  Umberto. — Butter  or  oil  as  many  oval  paper  cases  as  there  are 
squabs  to  be  prepared;  place  them  in  the  oven  to  stiffen  and  brown,  then  drain.  Bone  the  birds, 
stuff  them  with  a  delicate  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which  mix  chopped  truffles  and  mush- 
rooms; lay  them  in  a  sautoir  in  oval  rings  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  cases,  moisten  with  a  little 
mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  reduce  it  to  a  glaze,  then  remoisten  to  half  the  height  of  the  squabs, 
and  when  done  the  stock  ought  to  be  well  reduced;  lay  them  in  the  cases  and  cover  over  with 
African  sauce  (No.  424),  dress  and  serve. 


(2235).  OASES  OF  SWEETBEEADS  A  LA  GEAMMONT  (Oaisses  de  Eis  de  Veau  a  la  Grammont). 

Blanch  and  braise  the  sweetbreads  as  indicated  in  la  Montebello  (No.  1560),  then  put  them  in 
round  rings  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight.     Melt  some  butter;  fry  in  it  a  little  shallot,  parsley. 


082  THE    EPICUREAN. 

mushrooms  and  truffles,  all  finely  chopped,  season  and  moisten  with  Madeira  wine;  let  fall  to  a 
half-glaze,  then  thicken  with  egg-yolks.     Fill  some  cases  half  full  of  these  herbs,  lay  the  sweet- 


FIG.  417. 

breads  on  top  and  cover  each  one  with  a  slice  of  fat  pork;  place  them  in  the  oven,  and  when 
cooked  remove  the  pork  and  drain;  pour  the  stock  over  the  sweetbreads;  when  cooked  reduce 
to  a  half-glaze. 

(2236).  OASES  OP  THRUSHES  (Oaisses  de  Grives). 

Select  six  good,  fat  thrushes,  not  taking  those  that  are  too  large;  singe  and  split  them  down  the 
back  to  bone  the  breasts  and  draw  the  insides;  season  the  interior  meats  and  lay  in  each  one  a  ball  of 
game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  mixed  with  a  third  as  much  of  the  intestines  from  the  birds,  cooked, 
pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  Sew  up  the  opening  on  the  top,  truss  the  legs  and  shorten 
the  stumps.  Melt  some  grated  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan,  range  the  birds  in  this,  season  and  fry 
while  turning  them  over  until  partly  cooked,  then  drain  and  draw  out  the  sewing  thread  without 
disturbing  the  legs.  Add  to  the  fat  in  the  saucepan  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs 
(No.  385),  a  pinch  of  bread-crumbs  and  some  grated  fat  pork,  obtaining  a  light  paste.  Oil  over 
with  a  brush  six  oval  paper  cases,  and  on  the  bottom  of  each  spread  a  layer  of  this  paste  and 
over  place  a  thrush;  set  the  cases  on  a  buttered  sheet,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  push  into 
a  slack  oven  to  finish  cooking  the  birds.  At  the  last  moment  remove,  untruss  the  legs,  glaze  over 
with  a  brush  and  set  each  case  inside  another  white  one  in  order  to  serve  them  neatly. 


(2237).  OASES  OF  THRUSHES  A  LA  DIANA  (Oaisses  de  Grives  a  la  Diane). 

Split  eight  thrushes  through  the  back,  leaving  on  the  breastbone  and  legs;  stuff  them  with 
chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  add  to  this  forcemeat  a  third  of  its  volume  of  foies-gras 
from  a  terrine,  mix  well  together  and  inclose  a  ball  of  the  forcemeat  an  inch  and  a  half  in  size 
in  a  bird,  and  place  them  in  buttered  oval  tin  rings,  covering  over  with  thin  layers  of  fat  pork, 
and  cook  them  in  a  slack  oven.  Oil  some  oval  paper  cases,  turn  them  on  to  a  grater  and  lay 
this  on  a  baking  sheet,  stiffen  them  in  the  oven,  remove  and  line  them  with  a  light  layer  of  the 
same  forcemeat;  place  a  thrush  inside  of  each  and  push  them  into  a  slow  oven  for  twelve  min- 
utes; as  soon  as  done  remove  the  pork,  drain  off  the  fat  and  cover  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413)  and  game  fumet  (No.  397);  set  the  case  inside  of  another  cleaner  and  larger  one,  then 
serve. 

(2238).  CASSEROLES  OF  LAMB  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  DE  LUYNES  (Casseroles  de  Ris  d'Agneau 

a  la  de  Luynes). 

Braise  twelve  unlarded  lamb  sweetbreads  as  for  la  Montebello  (No.  1560);  when  cooked  place 
under  a  weight  to  reduce  to  half  an  inch  thick,  and  when  cold  cut  them  up  into  squares,  as  well  as 
a  quarter  as  many  cooked  truffles  into  one-quarter  of  an  inch  squares.  Put  on  to  reduce  some 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  stirring  into  it  some  truffle  essence  and  a  little  good  melted  game  glaze 
(No.  398);  when  the  sauce  is  properly  reduced,  add  to  it  the  salpicon  of  sweetbreads  and  truffles. 
Fill  some  small  porcelain  or  silver  casseroles  (flat  saucepans)  with  this  preparation,  having  them 
quite  full  and  rounded  on  the  top;  smooth  the  surfaces  dome-shaped  with  a  knife,  let  get  cold  and 
then  cover  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat,  besprinkle  with  parmesan  and  bread-crumbs,  pour 
a  little  melted  butter  over,  then  bake  lightly  in  a  slack  oven. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  683 

(2239).  CASSEROLE  OP  EIOE  WITH  CHICKEN  OE  YOUNG  GUINEA  FOWL  A  LA  PALESTINE 

(Casserole  de  Riz  Garnie  de  Poulet  on  Pintade  a  la  Palestine). 

Pick  and  wash  in  several  waters,  one  pound  of  rice,  more  or  less  according  to  the  size  of  the 
casserole  that  is  to  be  made.  Place  it  in  a  saucepan,  moisten  with  double  its  quantity  of  water  and 
cover  entirely  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  salt  over  and  allow  to  cook,  then  drain  and  pound,  moistening 
with  a  little  water.  Put  this  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  let  get  dry,  then  turn  it  over  on  tc 
a  baking  sheet  or  a  marble  slab  and  taking  in  the  hands  a  little  less  than  half,  mold  it  to  the  shape 
of  a  mushroom  head,  proceeding  exactly  the  same  with  the  other  half,  keeping  back  a  piece  to  roll 
into  a  round  form,  then  flatten  it  down  to  half  its  thickness.  Dress  the  croustade,  laying  the  fiat 
side  of  one  of  the  small  mushroom  pieces  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  then  fasten  the  flattened  ball  in  the 
center  and  place  the  other  large  mushroom  on  top  of  this,  only  having  it  reversed,  the  widest  part 
uppermost.  Carve  the  croustade  all  around  and  cover  it  with  clarified  butter,  then  brown  in  a 
brisk  oven  and  empty  out  the  inside;  fill  it  with  fillets  or  breasts  of  chicken  sauted  in  clarified 
butter  and  small  artichoke  bottoms  cut  in  four,  also  some  truffles;  when  these  ingredients  are  well 
done  dress  them  inside  the  croustade;  drain  the  fat  from  the  sautoir,  moisten  with  a  little 
Madeira  to  detach  the  glaze,  then  add  some  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  reduce,  and  pour  it 
over  the  chickens;  garnish  around  the  top  with  hatelets  of  chicken  Villeroi. 

A  Potato  Casserole  can  be  prepared  the  same  as  the  one  of  rice,  having  a  very  dry  mashed 
potato  preparation  moistened  with  raw  egg-yolks,  then  molded;  baste  butter  over  and  brown  in 
the  oven;  empty  it  out  and  fill  up  with  chicken  livers  sauted  in  butter  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No. 
385)  and  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 


(2240).  CREAM  OP  PARTRIDGE  OR  CHICKEN  (Oreme  de  Perdreau  ou  de  Poulet). 
Pound  the  meats  taken  from  two  roast  partridges  or  chickens,  with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  few 
parings  of  cooked  foies-gras  and  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  pass 
the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Dilute  this  pulp  with  ten  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  one,  two  gills  of 
good  raw  cream  and  two  gills  of  very  concentrated  game  fumet  (No.  397)  prepared  with  the 
partridge  bones  or  those  of  the  chickens.  Pour  this  preparation  into  a  small  vegetable  dish  or  small 
buttered  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  and  poach  in  a  bain-marie,  done  by  placing  the  dish 
in  a  saucepan  containing  hot  water,  having  this  water  quiver  only  and  not  boil.  As  soon  as  the 
cream  is  set,  remove  to  serve. 


(2241).  CREAM  OP  PHEASANT,  OHANTILLT  (Oreme  de  Paisan,  Chantilly), 

Pound  the  meats  of  a  raw  pheasant;  season  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve;  return  to  the 
mortar  and  pound  again  with  four  egg-yolks,  and  three-quarters  as  much  butter;  put  this  into  a 
thin  metal  bowl,  and  beat  on  ice  to  render  it  smooth  and  acquire  a  body,  mixing  in  about  a  gill  of 
raw  cream;  try  a  little  piece  in  the  oven  in  a  very  small  mold  to  discover  its  consistency,  and 
rectify  when  necessary.  Prepare  a  montglas  composed  of  uncooked  foies-gras,  truffles,  and  recently 
cooked  tender  red  beef  tongue;  place  it  in  a  small  sautoir  to  mingle  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  pheasant  fumet  (No.  397);  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie.  Butter 
a  mold  (Fig.  139)  with  clarified  butter;  fill  with  the  forcemeat,  smooth  the  top,  then  poach  in  a 
bain-marie  for  twenty  minutes,  with  a  white  paper  laid  on  top;  wipe  the  mold  neatly  after  it  has 
been  removed,  and  turn  the  contents  over  on  to  a  rice  croustade  foundation  (Fig.  9a)  fastened  on 
to  a  dish;  this  to  be  an  inch  thick,  and  slightly  wider  than  the  mold;  fill  the  hollow  at  once  with 
the  montglas;  brush  tile  forcemeat  lightly  with  a  little  of  the  veloute  sauce,  serving  more  separately. 

(2242).  CREPINE  OF  LAMBS'  TROTTERS,  PERIGUEUX  SAUCE  (Orepine  de  Pieds  d'Agneau, 

Sauce  Pe'rigueux). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  lambs'  trotters  the  same  as  for  the  poulette  (No.  1768),  drain  and  wipe; 
open  them  lengthways,  ac>^  bone  them  entirely,  using  the  utmost  precaution  not  to  tear  the  flesh; 
divide  each  one  into  two  parts,  season  and  fill  the  hollow  place  in  each  half  foot  with  a  salpicon 
composed  of  truffles,  veal  udder  and  cooked  foies-gras,  combined  with  raw  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  92),  and  a  little  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81);  place  on  each  four  slices  of  truffle;  wrap  each 
half  foot  in  a  band  of  "crepine"or  caul  fat,  previously  well  dried  and  beaten  between  two 


684  THE    EPICUREAN. 

cloths  to  reduce  its  thickness;  roll  these  crepines  in  melted  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  and  equalize  the  surfaces  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  boil  them  for  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes  over  a  very  slow  fire,  turning  them  during  the  operation.  Dress  them  on  a  very  hot  dish, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517). 

(2243).  CREPINE  OF  PULLET  (Orepine  de  Poularde). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  grated  fat  pork  in  a  saucepan  with  as  much  butter  and  oil,  set  it  on  the 
fire  with  the  pullet,  and  brown  this  to  a  fine  color,  then  take  out  and  untruss.  Brown  in  butter 
some  finely  chopped  shallot  and  mushrooms,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley,  let  cool 
off,  and  use  it  to  mask  the  surface  of  the  pullet,  then  lay  over  a  layer  of  not  too  hard  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  wrap  the  whole  up  in  a  piece  of  "crepine"  or  caul  fat;  baste  with  butter, 
bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  and  place  it  in  a  hot  oven  to  finish  cooking  the  pullet;  dress  and  pour 
around  a  buttered  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  with  lemon  juice  added. 

(2244).  CREPINE  OF  BRAINS  (Orepine  de  Gervelles). 

Prepare  and  cook  some  brains  as  for  the  poulette  (No.  1481);  when  well  drained,  split  them  in 
four  through  the  thickest  part.  Blanch  one  pound  of  onions,  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  dice  pieces,  in 
salted  water  for  ten  minutes;  drain  them  off,  then  fry  these  in  butter  to  cook  without  coloring; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  add  a  quart  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
reduce  well,  suppress  the  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  and  thicken  with  six  egg-yolks  and  a  little  butter; 
let  this  preparation  cool  off  partially,  then  envelop  the  slices  of  brains  in  plenty  of  it,  and  then 
wrap  them  in  "crepine"  or  caul  fat,  giving  each  one  a  flat  oval-shape;  dip  in  butter  and  roll  in 
bread-crumbs,  broil  over  a  slow  fire,  and  serve  on  a  slightly  thickened  aspic  gravy  (No.  391). 

(2245).  OREPINE  OF  OHIOKEN  A  LA  TURENNE-  BREASTS  (Orepine  de  Filets  de  Poulet 

k  la  Turenne). 

Pare  and  chop  up  finely  half  a  pound  of  raw  chicken  fillets,  and  one  pound  of  chopped  fresh 
fat  pork;  season  with  an  ounce  of  spiced  salt  (No.  168),  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  truffles.     Pound  the  chopped  chicken,  add  to  it  the  pork.     Spread 
some  pieces   of  "crepine"  or    caul    fat   on   a  napkin;   divide  half    of  the 
prepared  forcemeat  into  inch  and  a  half  diameter  balls,  and  lay  on   top  of 
the  crepine  a  fine  slice  of  truffle,  over  this  a  forcemeat  ball;  flatten  down  to 
half,   and  place   on  top   some  minced  mushrooms  previously  fried  in  butter 
with  fine  herbs,  and  on  this  lay  another  slice  of  truffle.     Wrap  the  crepines  into  oval-shapes,  and 
dip  each  in  butter,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs  to  broil  over  a  slow  fire;   serve  on  a  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413)  finished  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392). 

(2246).  OREPINE  OF  PIGEONS,  POIVRADE  SATJOE  WITH  TRUFFLE  ESSENCE  (Orepine  de 

Pigeons,  Sauce  Poivrade  a  1'Essence  de  Trufies). 

Truss  six  pigeons  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  and 
when  done  transfer  them  to  a  vessel,  straining  the  mirepoix  stock  over  and  then  let  get  thoroughly 
cold.  Spread  some  pieces  of  "crepine"  or  caul  fat  on  the  table;  split  the  pigeons  in  two,  pare 
nicely  and  cover  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  half  a  pound  of  veal  and  half  a  pound  of  veal  suet,  both 
being  finely  chopped  and  pounded  to  a  pulp,  then  mix  in  two  ounces  of  bread  crumbs,  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  finely  shredded  chives,  chopped  up  mushrooms  and  a  few  egg-yolks;  when  this  forcemeat 
is  of  a  sufficient  smoothness,  and  has  acquired  a  firmness,  use  it  to  cover  over  both  sides  of  the 
pigeons,  laying  it  on  rather  thick;  place  a  few  slices  of  truffles  on  top  and  wrap  the  whole  in 
pieces  of  crepine;  baste  over  with  melted  butter  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  then  put  them  in  a 
slow  oven  to  get  very  warm,  and  serve  on  a  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522)  with  essence  of  truffle  (No. 
895)  added. 

(2247),  OREPINE  OF  REEDBIRDS  (Orepine  de  Mauviettes). 

Take  one  dozen  well  cleaned  and  boned  reedbirds,  remove  the  breasts  and  put  the  leg  meats 
and  intestines  into  a  sautoir,  fry  them  in  butter  with  some  truffle  parings  and  let  get  cold;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  pound  to  a  pulp  and  press  through  a  sieve;  mix  in  with  this  as  much  game 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  later  add  an  equal  quantity  of  fine  herbs.  Pare  the  breasts, 
remove  the  skin  without  extracting  the  minion  fillets,  season  and  cover  both  sides  with  a  part 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  685 

of  tho  forcemeat.  Have  some  fresh  and  well  soaked  i;  crepine  "  or  caul  fat;  remove  the  fattest 
parts  with  a  knife  and  wrap  the  breasts  in,  dip  them  once  in  butter,  then  in  bread-crumbs, 
smoothing  this  nicely  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  fry  in  clarified  butter,  drain  and  dress  in  a  circle 
with  a  bread  crouton  between  each  of  the  breasts.  Fry  some  chopped  mushroom,  shallot  and 
parsley,  moisten  with  a  little  white  wine  and  good  stock;  reduce  the  stock,  add  to  it  a  little 
meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  parsley  and  finish  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  cover  the  crepines  with 
this  and  serve  at  once. 

(2248).  OEEPINE  AND  SAUSAGES  OF  VENISON  (Crepine  et  Saucisses  de  Ohevreuil). 

Crepine. — Take  a  pound  of  venison  minion  fillets,  suppress  all  the  sinews  and  cut  it  up  into 
medium  quarter-inch  squares,  place  these  in  a  vessel  with  half  as  many  raw  truffles  cut  in  three- 
sixteenths  inch  squares,  and  season  with  salt  and  spices,  pour  a  little  Madeira  over  and  marinate 
for  one  hour.  Mix  in  with  some  prepared  pork  farce  (No.  68),  three  ounces  of  foies-gras  braised 
and  cut  m  three-sixteenths  inch  squares;  after  it  is  cold,  pound  the  parings  with  a  few  truffle  par- 
ings and  put  the  whole  together,  season  highly  and  divide  the  preparation  into  even  parts  each  the 
size  of  an  egg  and  shape  them  into  flat  ovals,  wrap  up  in  fresh  pork  "  crepine  "  or  caul  fat,  brush 
over  with  butter,  dip  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil  on  a  moderate  fire  for  fifteen  minutes  while 
turning  over;  range  them  on  a  dish,  pouring  a  little  reduced  gravy  (No.  404)  in  the  bottom,  or  add 
some  Westphalian  sauce  (No.  561)  to  this. 

Sausages. — Chop  up  three  pounds  of  lean  and  sinewless  venison  with  the  same  weight  of  fresh 
pork,  a  coffeespoonful  of  fine  spices  or  else  powdered  sage,  two  coffeespoonfuls  of  pepper,  three  of 
salt,  and  three  gills  of  water;  when  the  whole  is  well  chopped  fill  some  mutton  casings  so  as  to  form 
sausages  five  to  six  inches  long;  prick  them  and  broil. 

(2249).  CEEPINE  OF  YOUNG  BABBITS  (Orepine  de  Lapereanx). 

Remove  all  the  meats  from  two  raw  young  rabbits  after  they  have  been  properly  cleaned;  sup- 
press all  the  skin  and  sinews  and  chop  up  finely,  then  mix  in  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  fresh 
pork  and  season  highly.  Chop  all  this  once  more  together,  adding  one-sixth  of  the  same  quantity 
of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  such  as  onions,  shallots,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  parsley.  Lay  thia 
hash  on  a  large  piece  of  "  crepine"  or  caul  fat  and  roll  it  up  oval  shape,  flatten  to  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  butter  over  with  a  brush  and  place  it  in  a  deep,  narrow,  but  long  baking  pan;  cook 
for  thirty  or  forty  minutes  in  a  slack  oven  while  basting  occasionally.  Drain  and  dress  on  a  dish, 
serving  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful  of  good  gravy  reduced  with  game  glaze  (No.  398). 

(2250).  CEOUSTADES  OF  CHICKEN  LIVEES  WITH  MADEIEA  (Croustades  de  Foies  de  Volaille 

au  Madere). 

Prepare  some  croustades  in  channeled  molds,  buttered  while  cold  and  lined  with  fine 
foundation  paste  (No.  135),  fill  them  up  with  buttered  paper  and  rice,  over  this  a  round  of  buttered 
paper,  cover  and  fasten  on  a  flat  of  the  same  paste;  pinch  the  edges  and  lay  on  the  center  a  puff 
paste  cover  made  in  three  layers  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  two  inches  in  diameter  for  the 
lower  one,  an  inch  and  a  half  for  the  second  and  an  inch  for  the  upper  one;  egg  over  and  bake  in 
a  hot  oven,  take  off  the  lid  and  empty  out  the  insides.  Fry  some  chicken  livers  in  a  sautoir  over  a 
brisk  fire,  drain  off  the  fat  and  moisten  with  a  little  Madeira  or  Marsala  wine,  adding  some  small 
cooked  mushroom  heads  and  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413).  Fill  the  croustades  with  these  livers  and 
mushrooms,  sauce  over,  replace  the  covers  and  serve. 

(2251).   OEOUSTADES  OF  LAMB  SWEETBEEADS-SMALL  (Fetites  Croustades  de  Eis  d'Agneau), 
Keep  warm  eight  to  ten  small  channeled  croustades  made  of  astruc,  each  to  be  provided  with 


FIG  419. 

a  channeled  and  pointed  cover.     Cut  into  dice  some  recently  glazed  lamb's  sweetbreads:  put  this 
salpicon  into  a  small  saucepan  with  half  the  quantity  of  cooked  truffles  cut  the  same  as  the  sweet- 


686  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

breads.  Put  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  bechamel  (No.  409)  on  to  reduce,  incorporating  in  the  truffle 
broth  and  a  little  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  when  succulent  and  thick  mix  it  with  the  sal- 
picon,  then  remove  it  at  once  from  the  fire  and  fill  up  the  small  croustades,  smoothing  the  prepa- 
ration to  a  dome;  leave  to  cool,  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  raw  forcemeat  (No.  89),  bestrew  with 
parmesan  and  bread-crumbs,  pour  melted  butter  over  and  warm  slightly  in  a  slow  oven. 

(2252),  OKOUSTADES  OF  EEEDBIRDS  (Croustades  de  Mauviettes), 

Cut  ten  to  twelve  crusts  of  bread;  slit  them  all  around  and  simply  brown  the  surfaces  in  a 
sautoir  with  clarified  butter  to  open  and  empty  them  out.  Bone  ten  to  twelve  fine  reedbirds, 
season  and  fill  them  with  a  little  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  besprinkled  with  chopped  truffles;  lay 
a  piece  of  foies-gras  in  the  center,  and  return  them  to  their  original  shape;  run  a  thin  skewer 
through  the  legs.  After  the  crusts  have  been  emptied  and  are  nearly  cold,  cover  them  over  quickly 
With  a  thin  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat,  and  in  the  hollow  space  in  each  lay  one  of  the  birds,  sink- 
ing it  down  in  such  a  way  that  it  will  not  be  deformed  while  cooking.  Butter  them  over  with  a 
brush,  season  and  cover  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork.  Place  the  crusts  on  a  buttered  baking 
sheet,  and  this  on  a  thick  baking-pan  so  that  the  heat  reaches  the  top  more  than  the  bot- 
tom. Cook  the  birds  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  in  a  slack  oven,  and  after  removing  them 
cover  over  with  a  good,  reduced,  thick  and  cold  brown  sauce  (No.  414);  let  them  attain  a  gloss  at 
the  oven  door,  then  dress  the  crusts  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2253),  OROUSTADES  OP  THEUSHES  (Oroustades  de  Grives), 

Bone  five  or  six  thrushes,  leaving  on  the  thighs  and  two-thirds  of  the  stumps;  season  them  on 
the  opened  side  and  fill  with  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  mingled  with  a  spoonful  of  plain,  raw  pork 
forcemeat  (No.  73);  bestrew  this  dressing  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  truffles,  and  lay  in  the  center  a 
small  slice  of  cooked  foies-gras  or  half  a  good  pullet's  liver,  seasoned  and  partly  cooked  with 
melted  fat  pork.  Reconstruct  the  birds  to  their  original  shape,  but  do  not  sew  them,  only  uphold 
the  legs  with  a  slender  wooden  skewer;  cover  over  with  a  small  band  of  buttered  paper,  and  range 
them  in  a  narrow  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork,  moistening  to  half  their  height  with  good  unskimmed 
fat.  Boil  for  two  minutes,  salt  over,  and  remove  the  sautoir  on  one  side,  keeping  them  for  ten  to 
twelve  minutes  without  boiling.  These  thrushes  should  merely  poach;  leave  them  till  partly  cold  in 
their  liquid,  then  drain  off  to  pare.  Cut  six  hollow  crusts  (Fig.  42),  slit  them  around,  and  fry 
lightly  in  butter,  then  empty  out  the  centers  and  cover  the  hollow  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat.  In  the 
middle  of  each  of  these  crusts  lay  one  thrush,  cover  over  with  a  very  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  and 
place  these  on  a  small,  lightly  buttered  baking  sheet  and  put  this  one  inside  another,  so  as  not  to 
have  the  crusts  brown  too  rapidly.  Cook  the  thrushes  in  a  slack  oven  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes, 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  nicely  done  remove  and  cover  them  at  once  with  a  thin  coating  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  Madeira.  Glaze  the  surface  of  the  sauce 
to  let  it  acquire  a  brilliancy  and  luster,  then  dress  and  serve. 

(2254),  CUPOLA  OP  OODPISH  A  LA  BISOAYAN  (Ooupole  de  Morue  a  la  Biscayenne), 

Butter  a  cupola-shaped  mold,  coat  the  inside  with  a  layer  of  butter  and  dust  over  with  white  bread- 
crumbs, then  pour  into  the  mold  three  well-beaten  eggs,  shuffle  them  around  so  they  moisten  the 
entire  surface,  drain  off  the  surplus  egg  and  bread-crumb  the  mold  once  more;  with  this  double 
breading  it  will  be  found  easy  to  cover  the  mold  with  a  layer  of  rice  prepared  as  follows:  Cook 
half  a  pound  of  rice  with  just  sufficient  fish  stock  (No.  195)  to  cover,  and  when  dry  finish  it  with 
butter  and  grated  parmesan;  beat  it  up  vigorously  and  lay  it  aside  to  get  cold,  then  use  it  to  spread 
half  an  inch  thick  over  the  entire  interior  surface  of  the  mold.  Soak  two  inch-square  pieces  of 
salt  codfish  for  eighteen  hours,  changing  the  water  three  times  in  the  meanwhile.  Fry  four 
ounces  of  onions  cut  into  three-sixteenths  inch  dice  in  two  gills  of  oil,  add  to  this  four  crushed 
and  chopped  cloves  cf  garlic,  a  pint  of  thick  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  194a)  and 
six  ounces  of  capers;  cook  the  codfish  in  this  preparation,  and  when  done  and  the  stock  quite  con- 
sistent let  it  become  cold,  afterward  using  it  to  fill  the  cupola,  finishing  the  top  with  another  layer 
of  the  rice.  Place  the  mold  on  a  small  baking  sheet  for  half  an  hour  in  the  oven,  then  detach  the 
rice  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  invert  it  on  a  hot  dish;  surround  the  cupola  with  swe^t 
peppers  sauted  in  oil  and  bestrew  the  whole  with  chopped  parsley. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  687 

(2255).  OUTLETS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEF  A  LA  BABANINE  (Ootelettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  b 

la  Babanine). 

Cut  up  in  squares  a  pound  of  raw  tenderloin  of  beef,  well-trimmed  and  free  of  all  fat  and 
sinews,  then  chop  it  up  very  fine.  Chop  separately  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef-marrow,  then 
chop  the  two  together.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  mix  in  slowly  half  a  pint  of  cream 
while  continuing  to  chop;  roll  out  and  flatten  a  small  ball  of  this  hash,  place  it  in  the  oven  to  try 
its  consistency,  if  the  preparation  be  too  firm  add  a  little  more  cream,  if  too  soft  a  few  raw  egg- 
yolks.  Divide  the  preparation  into  eight  equal  parts,  roll  each  one  separately  on  a  table  dredged 
with  rice  flour,  shape  them  like  cutlets,  arrange  them  on  a  buttered  pan,  pour  over  a  little  melted 
butter,  and  cook  in  a  quick  oven  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  Serve  separately  a  Lithuanian  sauce 
(No.  487). 

(2256).  OUTLETS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BIENVILLE  (Ootelettes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  & 

la  Bienville). 

Cold  roast  or  braised  tenderloin  of  beef  is  used  to  make  these  cutlets;  trim  one  pound  of  beef 
free  from  fat  or  sinews;  cut  it  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
cooked  mushrooms  cut  the  same  size.  Keduce  some  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  in  a  saucepan, 
add  to  it  some  raw  egg-yolks,  and  a  little  good  butter,  then  mix  in  the  beef  fillet,  also  the  mush- 
rooms. Heat  the  preparation  well,  and  when  boiling  pour  it  in  a  dish  to  let  it  become  perfectly 
cold,  then  divide  it  into  twelve  equal  parts.  Roll  them  out  on  a  table  dredged  with  grated 
bread-crumbs;  shape  them  in  form  of  cutlets,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  then  roll  them  in 
bread-crumbs;  flatten  the  tops  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  so  as  to  make  them  smooth  and  equal-sized, 
then  fry  them  in  very  hot  fat  until  they  have  assumed  a  good  color,  and  serve  them  with  well- 
buttered  gourmets  sauce  (No.  472). 

(2257).  CHICKEN  OUTLETS  A  LA  ADOLPHE  HARDY  (Ootelettes  de  Poulet  a  la  Adolphe  Hardy) 

Chop  up  finely  one  pound  of  raw  chicken  fillets  after  suppressing  all  the  sinews  and 
fat;  add  half  the  same  quantity  of  fresh  butter,  season  and  mix  the  whole  well  together. 
Divide  the  preparation  into  two  inch  in  diameter  balls  and  shape  them  like  a 
cutlet;  dip  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter;  drain  and 
decorate  with  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Kange  them  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  a 
garnishing  of  minced  cepes  fried  in  butter,  drained  and  moistened  with  cream 
reduced  with  the  cepes,  season  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  finish  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  lemon  juice  and  chives  minced  very  fine.  Fio~420. 

(2258).  CHICKEN  CUTLETS  A  LA  CLARENCE  (Ootelettes  de  Poulet  a  la  Clarence). 
Fry  lightly  in  butter  and  lemon  juice  six  well-pared  chicken  fillets  cut  into  half  hearts;  place 
them  under  a  weight  to  press  lightly  and  divide  each  one  into  halves  through  the  thickest  part  and 
trim  neatly  again.  Bone  the  legs,  suppress  the  nerves  and  fat  and  fry  them  in  butter,  then  allow 
to  cool;  pound  these  with  the  same  quantity  of  foies-gras  from  a  terrine,  adding  about  six  egg- 
yolks  and  proper  seasoning;  pass  this  through  a  sieve  and  then  mix  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  truffles,  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  and  nutmeg.  With  this 
preparation  cover  both  surfaces  of  each  fillet,  range  them  on  a  lightly  buttered  baking  sheet  and 
let  get  cold  on  ice;  detach  them  from  the  sheet,  heating  it  underneath,  then  roll  each  separate 
one  in  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  once  more  in  the  crumbs,  and  smooth  the  breading 
with  the  blade  of  a  knife.  Plunge  a  few  chops  at  a  time  into  hot  frying  fat  to  brown  nicely, 
then  drain  and  insert  a  small  favor  frill  (No.  10).  Dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  forcemeat  ring 
poached  in  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig.  139),  hollowed  on  the  top;  in  the  center  of  the  ring  range 
minced  fresh  mushrooms  thickened  with  well-reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409). 

(2259).  GROUSE  OR  PRAIRIE  HEN  OUTLETS  A  LA  SE'GARD  (Ootelettes  de  Terras  ou  de  Poulet 

de  Prairie  a  la  Se'gard), 

Braise  the  fillets  from  the  breast  of  a  grouse,  remove  the  skin  and  nerves  and  chop  up  finely; 
add  six  ounces  of  butter,  season  with  fine  spices  and  mix  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  game  cream 
forcemeat  (No.  75);  with  this  preparation  shape  some  cutlets,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  in  clarified  butter  over  a  good  fire.  Serve  separately,  but  at  the  same  time  a  toma- 
to sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 


688  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2260),  OUTLETS  OP  KINGFISH,  MAYONNAISE  MOUSSELINE  (Ootelettes  de  Kingfish,  Mayonnaise 

Mousseline). 

Make  a  very  delicate  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90);  mold  this  into  cutlet-shaped  molds, 
and  poach  until  sufficiently  consistent  to  be  able  to  egg  and  bread-crumb;  fry  in  clarified  butter, 
and  when  a  fine  color  dress  on  napkins.  Garnish  the  ends  with  paper  favor  frills  (No.  10)  and 
serve  with  a  mayonnaise  mousseline  sauce  (No.  615)  separately. 

(2261).  LOBSTEE  OUTLETS  A  LA  SHELLEY,  OR  WITH  OEEAM  SAUOE  (Ootelettes  de  Bernard 

a  la  Shelley,  ou  a  la  Sauce  a  la  Creme). 

Cook  in  a  court  bouillon  (No.  38)  one  lobster  of  two  and  a  half  pounds,  take  out  all  the  meat, 
cut  one  pound  of  this  into  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  cooked  mush- 
rooms cut  the  same  as  the  lobster,  and  mix  this  salpicon  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced 
with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392),  and  into  which  has  been  added  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402); 
season,  stir  well  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  preparation  reaches  boiling  point,  pour  it  into  a  vessel 
to  get  cold.  Have  a  bottomless  cutlet  mold  five-eighths  of  an  inch  high  by  three  and  three- 
quarters  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide;  butter  and  lay  it  on  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  slightly 
larger  than  the  mold,  garnish  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  light  layer  of  pike  forcemeat  (No.  90), 
set  the  salpicon  in  the  center  and  cover  with  more  forcemeat;  poach  this  lightly,  unmold  and  set  it 
aside  till  cold,  then  dip  it  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs;  fry  in  clarified  butter,  drain  and 
serve  on  napkins  with  favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  a  separate  lobster  sauce  (No.  488)  containing 
chopped  truffles. 

With  Cream  Sauce. — Have  a  lobster  croquette  preparation  (No.  880),  mold  it  to  the  shape  of  a 
cutlet,  bread-crumb  and  fry  the  sauce  as  for  the  above;  when  a  fine  color,  dress  the  cutlets  and 
garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  serving  them  tvith  a  separate  cream  sauce  (No.  454). 

(2262).  OUTLETS  OP  PHEASANT  A  LA  REGINALD  (Ootelettes  de  Faisan  a  la  Reginald). 

Cut  up  a  pound  of  the  white  meat  of  a  cooked  pheasant  free  of  fat  and  skin  into  three-sixteenths 
inch  squares,  also  four  ounces  of  truffles;  mingle  these  with  reduced  bechamel  (No.  409)  and  meat 
glaze  (No.  402),  season  properly  and  let  get  cold.  Divide  the  preparation  into  one  and  three- 
quarters  inch  in  diameter  balls,  roll  and  lengthen  them  on  one  end  in  the  shape  of  a  cutlet  and  lay 
them  in  bread-crumbs;  then  dip  in  beaten  eggs  and  again  in  the  bread-crumbs,  flatten  them  down  to 
half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  mold  them  into  cutlet-shaped  bottomless  molds;  unmold  and  fry  in 
very  hot  white  fat  or  clarified  butter,  drain  and  trim  with  fancy  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  either 
in  a  circle  or  in  a  straight  row.  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  well  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
into  which  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  strain  it  through  a  tammy  and  then  add  chopped 
parsley  and  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  pieces  of  cooked  mushrooms  and  red  beef  tongue. 

(2263).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  L'ALBUFERA  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  l'Albuf6ra). 

To  be  prepared  the  same  as  the  signora  (No.  2269);  replace  the  slice  of  truffle  by  a  braised 
cock's- comb,  having  it  fall  to  a  glaze  in  Madeira  and  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Serve  separately  a 
poivrade  sauce  (No.  522)  with  truffles. 

(2264).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  JARDINIERE  (Cotelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Jardiniere). 

Thrust  the  legs  inside  as  many  young  pigeons  as  needed,  and  split  them  in  two  lengthwise, 
flatten,  then  trim  each  half  cutlet-shaped,  the  leg  bone  to  take  the  place  of  the  handle,  season  and 
roll  in  butter  after  breading  them  over,  broil  and  dress  on  a  jardiniere  garnishing  (No.  677), 
decorating  the  leg  with  a  paper  frill  (No.  10);  serve. 

(2265).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  LAURISTON  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Lauriston). 

Truss  the  legs  inside  of  six  prepared  squabs;  split  them  in  two  lengthwise,  beat  down  to  flatten, 
season  and  pare  into  cutlet  shapes.  Lay  them  in  a  saute"-pan  with  butter,  shallots,  mushrooms 
and  truffles,  all  finely  chopped,  and  cut  up  chives;  cook  together  for  half  an  hour  without  browning, 
then  drain  off  the  butter  and  place  the  cutlets  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight;  let  the  herbs  get 
quite  cold,  then  mix  them  with  some  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  with  this  prepara- 
tion cover  each  inner  side  of  half  a  squab;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  well  the  breading  and  fry  in  clarified  butter.  Dress  the  birds  in  a  circle,  garnish  the 
handle  with  a  frill  (No.  10)  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  puree  of  green  peas  (No.  2742).  Serve  a 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Marsala  wine  separately,  adding  to  it  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  689 

(2266).  CUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  DE  LUYNES  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  de  Luynes), 

Prepare  the  cutlets  the  same  as  for  the  Lauriston,  only  replace  the  forcemeat  by  a  well-reduced 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  with  leinon  juice  added.  Cover  the  cutlets  with  this  and  when  cold  dip 
them  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  clarified  butter;  dish  up  and  fill  the  hollow  of  the 
circle  with  asparagus  tops.  Serve  separately  a  well-buttered  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  into  which 
mingle  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2267).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  PERIGUEUX  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  P&igueux), 

After  dressing  the  pigeons  as  for  jardiniere  (No.  2264),  pour  over  a  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517),  to 
which  add  a  garnishing  of  small  chicken  quenelles,  laid  through  a  cornet  on  to  a  buttered  4baking 
sheet  into  bead  shapes  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  then  poached  in  boiling  water  and  drained. 

(2268).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  PROVENQ AL  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneanx  a  la  Provengale). 
Prepared  the  same  as  the  jardiniere  (No.  2264),  then  fried  in  oil  with  minced  onion,  and  a 
clove  of  garlic;  drain  off  the  oil  and  replace  it  by  white  wine,  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and 
tomatoes.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  finish  to  cook;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  add  minced  mush- 
rooms and  chopped  parsley. 

(2269).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  A  LA  SIGNORA  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Signora), 
Have  some  well-cleaned  and  singed  young  pigeons;  make  an  incision  down  the  entire  length  of 
the  backs  and  bone  them  by  beginning  at  this  incision  and  following  the  line  of  the  carcass  on  both 
sides,  then  take  out  all  the  bones  leaving  a  drumstick  on  the  same  side  of  each  pigeon;  season. 
Mix  well  together  some  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  with  as  much  cooked  forcemeat  (No.  73); 
spread  out  a  layer  of  it  on  the  inside  of  the  squab,  and  in  the  center  on  the  back  place  a  fine  slice 
of  peeled  truffle,  having  it  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cover  this  over  with  another 
layer  of  the  forcemeat,  and  wrap  this  in  the  boned  pigeon,  shaping  it  like  a  cutlet;  dip  in  melted  butter, 
then  in  bread-crumbs.  Butter  a  baking  sheet,  and  range  either  buttered  molds  or  rings  shaped 
like  cutlets  on  top,  set  the  pigeons  in  these,  sprinkle  butter  over,  then  place  them  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  let  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  sheet  from  the  fire,  drain  off  the  pigeons  and 
decorate  the  legs  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  dress  them  in  a  circle,  and  serve  separately  a  queen 
sauce  (No.  530). 

(2270).  OUTLETS  OF  SQUABS  IN  PAPERS  (Ootelettes  de  Pigeonneaux  en  Papillotes), 
Draw,  singe  and  clean  nicely  some  young  pigeons,  cut  an  incision  in  the  skin  between  the 
rump  and  the  breast;  thrust  the  legs  inside,  split  the  pigeons  in  two  lengthwise  and  pare  them  to 
resemble  cutlets,  then  fry  lightly  in  butter  with  lemon  juice  without  letting  acquire  a  color;  set 
them  under  a  weight  and  trim  them  again  into  the  required  shape.  Place  some  oil,  grated  fat 
pork,  chopped  shallot,  mushrooms,  parsley,  salt,  allspice  and  eighth-inch  squares  of  ham  into  a 
sautoir;  when  these  ingredients  are  well  fried,  but  not  browned,  add  some  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413)  and  Madeira  wine.  Coat  some  heart-shaped  sheets  of  paper  with  oil,  on  one  of  the  halves  lay 
a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  over  this  some  of  the  above  prepared  sauce  and  then  a  pigeon  cutlet  on  top, 
finishing  with  more  of  the  sauce  and  a  thin  slice  of  cooked  ham;  fold  the  empty  half  of  paper  over 
on  the  full  one,  pinch  the  edges  well  together  to  enfold  all  and  enclose  hermetically,  then  lay 
them  on  a  well-buttered  dish  intended  for  the  table;  set  it  in  the  oven  to  brown  the  paper  and  heat 
the  cutlet.  The  paper  should  swell  up;  serve  as  soon  as  done. 

(2271).  SWEETBREAD  OUTLETS,  MODERN  STYLE  (Ootelettes  de  Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Moderne), 

Cut  one  pound  of  sweetbreads  into  slices;  season  and  cook  with  some  butter  in  a  sautoir,  turn- 
ing them  over  when  done  on  one  side;  drain,  let  get  cold  under  a  weight,  then  cut  up  into  small 
quarter-inch  dice  pieces;  lay  them  in  a  tureen  with  half  a  pound  of  cooked  mushrooms  cut  the  same 
size,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  unsmoked  beef  tongue  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  dice;  mix  this 
salpicon  with  some  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  bring  to  a  boil,  stir  well  with  a  reducing  spatula 
and  set  it  away  to  cool  in  a  dish;  when  cold  shape  it  into  cutlets,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry;  then  dress  in  a  circle,  garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  pour 
a  financiere  sauce  (No.  464)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 


690  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2272).   SWEETBREAD  OUTLETS  A  LA  TALLEYRAND  (Ootelettes  de  Eis  de  Veau  a  la 

Talleyrand). 

Braise  some  unlarded  sweetbreads  and  set  under  a  weight  to  get  cold;  cut  one  pound  of  these 
into  quarter-inch  dice-shaped  pieces  with  the  same  quantity  of  artichoke  bottoms,  and  mushrooms 
cut  the  same,  and  four  ounces  of  truffles  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  dice  and  mingled  with  a 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  thickened  with  egg-yolks  and  fine  butter.  After  this  preparation  is  cold 
divide  it  into  equal  parts  and  shape  them  as  cutlets;  dip  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  fry  to  a  fine 
color;  dress  in  a  circle,  garnish  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  pouring  a  cream  of  soubise  sauce  (No. 
548)  in  the  center. 

(2273).  VEAL  OUTLETS,  POGARSKI  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  Pogarski). 

Chop  up  one  pound  of  fillet  of  veal  free  of  all  sinews,  mix  it  in  with  ten  ounces  of  butter,  tw<v 
ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  nutmeg;  roll  about  three  ounces  of  this  on  a 
table,  besprinkle  with  rice  flour  and  shape  them  into  the  form  of  cutlets;  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  roll 
in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  clarified  butter;  glaze  each  cutlet  over  with  a  brush  and  dress  them 
in  a  circle  with  paper  favor  frills  (No.  10)  on  the  ends.  Garnish  with  fried  potatoes  cut  in  five- 
eighths  inch  balls  and  serve  separately  a  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mixed  with  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413). 

(2274).  OUTLETS  OP  YOUNG  HARE  A  LA  PAVORITE  (Ootelettes  de  Levraut  a  la  Favorite). 

Take  both  fillet  and  minion  fillets,  suppress  the  sinews  and  cut  the  meat  lengthwise  in  two  or 
three  pieces;  flatten  and  pare  into  half  hearts,  salt  and  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet;  bend 
them  all  to  the  right  and  give  them  the  shape  of  a  cutlet.  Cut  each  minion  fillet  in  three  equal 
pieces,  streak  them  on  their  length  with  truffles  and  place  on  the  outside  edge  of  the  cutlets,  cover 
over  with  bards  of  fat  pork  or  else  melted  butter  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven;  drain  and  decorate 
with  fancy  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Lay  these  cutlets  on  bread-crumb  croutons  cut  the  same  size, 
dressing  them  in  a  circle,  and  fill  the  center  with  a  stew  composed  of  quenelles  made  with  the 
leg  and  shoulder  meats,  truffles,  mushrooms  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  well  reduced  and  beaten 
with  some  fumet  (No.  397)  made  of  the  hare's  carcasses  and  bones;  serve  more  of  this  sauce 
apart  at  the  same  time. 

(2275).  YOUNG  RABBIT  OUTLETS  A  LA  PREVILLOT  (Ootelettes  de  Lapereaux  a  la  Pre"villot). 
Take  four  very  tender  young  rabbits,  remove  the  hind  part  of  them  and  cut  them  in  two 
lengthways  through  the  center,  bone  the  thighs  leaving  on  the  leg  bone;  remove  all  the  sinews,  then 
season  and  stuff  them  with  godiveau  of  rabbit  (No.  84),  made  with  the  minion  fillets  and  fillets, 
mixing  into  it  some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  sew  them  up  and  shape  them  into  cutlets,  stiffen  and 
color  these  lightly  in  butter  on  both  sides,  then  set  them  under  a  light  weight  and  when  cold  pull 
out  the  threads  and  pare  them  all  alike  into  cutlet  form;  dip  them  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs.  Pre- 
pare a  fumet  (No.  397)  with  the  rabbit  parings;  when  ready  to  serve  have  some  hot  clarified  butter  in 
a  sautoir,  put  in  the  cutlets  and  cook  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  wipe  and  trim  the  handles,  dress  and 
pour  around  a  Previllot  salpicon  (No.  749),  and  serve  the  fumet  separately,  reduced  with  a  little 
espagnole  (No.  414). 

(2276).  ESOALOPS  OF  TENDERLOIN  OP  BEEF  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Escalopes  de  Fttet  de  Bceuf 

aux  Truffes). 

After  paring  a  medium-sized  tenderloin,  cut  it  lengthwise  in  two,  then  across  in  pieces  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  trim  them  round-shaped  an  inch  and  a  quarter 
in  diameter.  Place  them  one  beside  the  other  in  a  well-buttered  stewpan,  add  some 
slices  of  the  truffle  of  the  same  dimensions;  cover  with  melted  butter  and  when 
ready  to  serve  put  the  stewpan  on  a  moderate  fire  for  a  few  moments.  Drain  off 
FIO.  421.  the  butter,  and  finish  with  a  reduced  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492). 

(2277).  ESOALOPS  OF  BEEF  PALATES  WITH  PUREE  OF  CHESTNUTS  (Escalopes  de  Palais  de 

Bceuf  Puree  de  Marrons). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  beef  palates  the  same  as  for  palates  a  la  bechamel  (No.  1326);  when  cold 
and  pressed  cut  them  into  oblongs  two  and  three-quarters  inches  by  one  and  one-half  inches. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  691 

Cover  both  sides  of  the  pieces  with  a  layer  of  delicate  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  mixing 
in  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).     Dip  in  eggs  and  fresh  bread-crumbs, 


FIG.  422. 

and  fry  them  to  a  fine  color.     Dress  them  crown-shaped,  and  garnish  the  center  of  the  crown  with 
a  consistent  pur6e  of  chestnuts  (No.  712). 

(2278).  ESOALOPS  OF  CHICKEN,  FINANOIEEE  (Escalopes  de  Poulet  Financiers). 
Lift  off  the  breasts  from  four  fine  chickens;  remove  the  minion  fillets,  and  suppress  the  skin; 
cut  the  breasts  crosswise  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  pare  these  lightly  to  ovals  and 
range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter.  Streak  the  minions  with  truffles,  form  them  into 
circles,  and  place  in  a  buttered  sautoir.  Saute  the  prepared  escalops  on  a  hot  fire,  drain  off  the 
butter,  and  add  quenelles,  mushrooms,  truffles,  and  some  financiere  sauce  (No.  464).  Poach  the 
minion  fillets;  dress  the  escalops  inside  a  decorated  chicken  cream  forcemeat  border,  or  else  in  a 
croustade,  and  serve  separately  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira,  or  if  for  white,  replace 
this  by  some  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415). 

(2279).  ESOALOPS  OP  FAT  LIVEES  A  LA  VILLENEUVE  (Escalopes  de  Foies-Gras  a  la 

Villeneuve). 

From  a  good  fresh  and  firm  raw  fat  goose  liver  cut  seven  or  eight  escalops  one  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter  by  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  pare  them  into  ovals  or  rounds,  season 
and  range  on  a  sautoir;  surround  with  fine  slices  of  raw  truffles,  cut  the  same  diameter,  season 
and  saute  them,  pour  over  the  whole  some  good  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and  Madeira.  Boil  up  the 
liquid,  then  push  the  dish  into  a  slack  oven,  basting  them  with  their  liquid.  Twelve  to  fifteen 
minutes  will  suffice  to  poach  the  liver  in  this  stock.  At  the  last  moment,  dress  the  escalops  on  a 
dish  in  a  close  circle,  and  dress  the  slices  of  truffles  around,  one  overlapping  the  other;  thicken 
the  stock  with  a  little  good  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  liver  and  truffles,  and  serve  immediately. 

(2280).  ESOALOPS  OF  FAT  LIVEES  A  LA  EULLI  (Escalopes  de  Foies-Gras  a  la  Eulli). 

Braise  for  forty  minutes  in  a  mirepoix  (No.  419)  with  Madeira  some  duck's  or  geese  livers, 
wrapped  in  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  or  caul  fat  and  buttered  paper;  put  them  into  a  small  vessel,  and 
pour  the  stock  over,  then  let  get  cold  in  this;  remove  them  from  the  stock  and  cut  them  into  slices 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  pare  them  into  rounds  an  inch  and  a  quarter,  and  have  the  same 
quantity  of  truffles  and  mushrooms  sauted  in  butter.  Fry  some  shallots  in  butter,  add  chopped  up 
parsley,  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  some  well-reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  with  this  cover 
over  the  livers,  mushrooms  and  truffles.  Have  small  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  lay  on  the  livers, 
partly  overlapping  the  livers  lay  a  slice  of  truffle,  and  partly  overlapping  the  truffle  lay  a  slice  of 
mushroom;  cover  again  with  a  little  more  of  the  sauce,  and  leave  to  get  very  cold;  remove  from  the 
paper,  then  roll  the  escalops  in  bread-crumbs,  afterward  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  again  in  bread- 
crumbs, again  in  the  egg,  and  in  the  bread-crumbs  once  more;  smooth  the  crumbs  with  the  blade 
of  a  knife,  and  fry  them  a  fine  color;  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  to 
decorate. 

(2281).  ESCALOPS  OF  FAT  LIVEES  WITH  EISOT,  PE'EIGUEUX  SAUCE  (Escalopes  de  Foies- 
Gras  au  Eisot,  Sauce  Perigueux). 

Prepare  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  Piedmontese  rice  into  a  risot  (No.  739).  Cut  lip  the 
quarter  of  a  fat  liver  cooked  and  cold  into  small  escalops;  put  them  in  a  sautoir  with  half  as 
many  cooked  truffles  also  cut  up;  add  three  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  sauce  and  as  much  melted  meat 
glaze  (No.  402).  Keep  the  stew  hot.  Lastly  finish  the  risot  with  fresh  parmesan,  fine  butter,  and 


692  THK    EPICUREAN, 

prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Pour  half  of  this  into  a  large  buttered  plain  dome-shaped  mold, 
press  it  well  on  the  sides  in  such  away  that  a  hollow  is  formed  in  the  center;  fill  this  with  the  foies- 
gras  stew  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  rice;  keep  it  in  a  heater  for  seven  to  eight  minutes, 
then  turn  it  out  on  a  dish,  covering  the  bottom  of  it  with  a  little  Pdrigueux  sauce  (No.  517). 

(2282).  ESOALOPS  OF  LAMB  OR  VEAL  A  LA  HABIRSHAW  (Escalopes  d'Agneau  ou  de  Veau 

a  la  Habirshaw). 

Lift  off  the  fillet  from  a  loin  of  lamb  or  veal,  remove  all  fat  and  sinews,  cut  it  up  into  small 
slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  flatten,  pare  and  shape  them  into  rounds;  they  should  each 
weigh  one  ounce  after  being  trimmed;  fry  these  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  drain  off  the  butter 
and  add  salt,  pepper,  minced  cepes,  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  a  spoonful  of  Madeira  wine  and 
chopped  parsley.  Cut  some  cucumbers  across  into  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick  slices,  and  remove 
from  them  pieces  with  a  column  tube  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  pare  and  take  out  the  insidos 
with  a  smaller  tube,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  line  a  baking  sheet  with  thin  slices  of 
fat  pork,  lay  the  cucumbers  on  top  and  fill  in  the  insides  with  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  into  which 
mix  a  little  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89);  cover  over  with  more  slices  of  pork  and  cook  them 
slowly  in  the  oven;  when  the  cucumbers  are  sufficiently  done  drt,ss  them  in  a  circle  which  will 
form  a  border  and  fill  the  inside  with  the  escalops. 

(2283),  ESOALOPS  OF  PHEASANTS  WITH  OLIVES  (Escalopes  de  Faisans  aux  Olives). 
Raise  the  breasts  of  two  raw  pheasants,  cut  them  in  twelve  thin  escalops  of  equal  thickness,  oval- 
shaped  and  rather  large,  season  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified  butter  to  stiffen  them 
simply  on  one  side,  drain  them  on  to  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  buttered  paper  and  lay  another 
sheet  of  the  same  on  top;  then  let  them  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight.  With  the 
pheasant  parings  prepare  a  good  forcemeat  (No.  91),  fasten  on  a  round  dish  a  rice  croustade 
foundation  cut  into  a  ring,  having  it  half  an  inch  thick;  take  up  the  escalops  one  by  one  and  with 
an  oval  pastry  cutter  slightly  narrower  than  they  themselves  pare  so  as  to  have  them  all  of  even 
size.  Cover  the  stiffened  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  a  preparation  made  with  half  puree  of  truffles  and 
half  puree  of  foies-gras  mingled  with  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  a  sixth  of  its  quantity  of 
the  above  raw  pheasant  forcemeat.  Smooth  the  surfaces  neatly  and  replace  the  escalops  in  the 
same  sautoir  as  the  butter;  push  this  into  a  slack  oven  to  poach  the  preparation  and  the  escalops. 
Drain  them  off  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  the  rice  ring  fastened  on  to  the  dish,  fill  in  the  hollow  center 
with  a  garnishing  of  large  Spanish  olives,  glaze  the  escalops  lightly  with  a  brush  and  pour  over  the 
garnishing  a  little  good  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  reduced  with  pheasant  fumet  (No.  897);  serve  a 
sauce-boatful  of  the  sauce  at  the  same  time. 

(2284).  ESOALOPS  OF  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  OAREME  (Escalopes  de  Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Careme). 
Braise  someunlarded  sweetbreads;  when  cold  cut  them  into  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick 
and  shape  thorn  into  rounds  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  add  to  them  half  their  quantity  of 
mushrooms  sliced  thick  and  a  quarter  as  many  sliced  truffles,  mix  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407),  season  correctly  and  dress  inside  a  border  of  rice,  prepared  as  in  No.  787. 

(2285).  ESOALOPS  OF  KERNEL  OF  VEAL  A  L' ARNOLD  (Escalopes  de  Noix  de  Veau  k  1'Arnold). 
Cut,  some  thin  slices  from  the  round  bottom  of  veal,  pare  them  shapely  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick  by  one  and  three-quartors  inches  in  diameter,  range  in  a  buttered  sautoir  on  a  brisk  fire  and 
fry  both  sides  to  a  fine  color,  then  drain  off  the  butter  and  replace  it  by  some  sherry  wine,  mush- 
room catsup,  anchovy  essence,  finely  shredded  lemon  peel,  cream  and  velout^  sauce  (No.  415);  heat 
the  whole,  removing  the  sautoir  at  the  tirst  boil.  Dress  the  slices  of  veal,  reduce  the  sauce  and 
pour  it  over;  garnish  around  with  small  triangle  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(2286).  ESOALOPS  OF  YOUNG  HARE  A  LA  ROEDERER,  GARNISHED  WITH  QUENELLES 

(Escalopes  de  Levraut  k  la  Roederer,  Garnies  de  Quenelles). 

Prepare  the  escalops  in  the  following  man  nor:  raise  the  fillets  and  minion  fillets  from  a  young 
hare,  remove  all  the  sinews,  and  cut  them  up  into  escalops;  fry  in  butter  with  sliced  fresh  truffles, 
drain  off  tho  butter  and  detach  the  glaze  with  white  wine;  slice  some  ham  thinly,  and  from  these 
remove  small  rounds  with  a  tin  tube,  adding  thorn  to  the  other  ingredients,  then  heat  up  the  whole 
without  boiling.  Drain  off  the  escalops,  and  dross  in  a  circle  of  game  quenelles  (Fig.  75).  Reduce 
the  white  wine  with  as  much  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  418),  and  when  this  becomes  rich  and  succulent 
season  properly,  strain  and  pour  it  over  the  whole. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  693 

(2287).  PAT  LIVEKS  A  LA.  TOULOUSAINE-WHOLE  (Poies-Gras  Entiera  la  Toulousaine). 

Select  a  fine,  raw,  fresh  and  white  fat  liver  that  has  not  yet  been  put  in  water  or  milk;  remove 
the  gall,  and  stud  each  side  with  a  row  of  raw  truffles;  season  and  butter  over  with  a  brush;  wrap  it 
first  in  thin  bards  of  fat  pork,  then  in  a  flat  of  pie  paste  (No.  144).  closing  all  the  apertures  carefully. 


FIG.  423. 


Lay  it  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  slack  oven.  After  it  has  been 
removed,  unwrap,  take  away  the  fat  pork  and  dress  the  liver  on  a  long  dish,  garnishing  around 
with  small  molded  quenelles,  cocks'-combs  and  mushrooms;  serve  at  the  same  time  an  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  an  infusion  of  Ceylon  cinnamon. 

(2288).  HASH  A  LA  SAM  WARD-TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  (Hachis  de  Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Sam 

Ward). 

Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  cold  braised  or  roasted  tenderloin  of  beef;  three  ounces  of  cooked 
mushrooms,  three  ounces  of  cooked  potatoes,  all  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and 
one  ounce  of  cooked  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares.  Fry  in  butter  without  browning 
an  ounce  of  chopped  shallot,  then  add  the  ham,  mushrooms,  meat  and  potatoes;  mix  in  a  little 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  puree  of  tomatoes  (No.  730);  do  not  allow  to  boil.  Season  to  taste  and 
arrange  the  hash  on  a  very  hot  dish;  surround  it  with  pieces  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

(2289).  HASH  A  LA  SHEPPLER-TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  (Hachis  de  Filet  de  Bomf  a  la 

Sheppler). 

Half  a  pound  of  cold  tenderloin  of  beef  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  half  a 
pound  of  mushrooms  cut  the  same  size,  an  ounce  of  finely  chopped  shallots;  fry  these  in  butter, 
then  add  the  tenderloin  and  the  mushrooms,  also  a  little  espagnole  sauce  '(No.  414),  salt,  pepper 
and  chopped  parsley.  Dish  this  hash  in  a  circle  of  noodles  cooked  and  finished  with  parmesan 
cheese,  and  serve. 

(2290).  CORNED  BEEF  HASH  (Hachis  de  Boeuf  Sale! 

Have  four  ounces  of  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan,  and  moisten  with  sufficient  beef  stock  (No.  194a)  to  cover  them  entirely.  Season  with 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter;  simmer  until  the  stock  is  reduced;  add  six  ounces 
of  corned  beef  cut  the  same  size  as  the  potatoes;  warm  without  boiling,  and  serve  when  the  meat 
is  very  hot. 

(2291).  CORNED  BEEF  HASH,  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Hachis  de  Boeuf  Sale"  a  rAmencaine), 
Put  in  a  large  frying-pan  one  ounce  of  butter;  when  hot  add  four  ounces  of  potatoes,  and  six 
ounces  of  corned  beef,  both  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.     Season  with  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  and  fry,  slowly  inclining  the  pan  so  that  the  hash  assumes  the  shape  of  an  omelet.     When 
a  fine  color  drain  off  the  butter,  and  turn  it  on  to  a  long  dish  the  same  as  an  omelet. 

(2292).  HASHED  CHICKEN,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Hachis  de  Volaille  a  I'Anoienne). 
Raise  the  breasts  of  a  roast  chicken,  remove  the  skin  and  sinewy  parts  and  cut  the  meat  into 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares;  also  cut  a  shallot  into  one-eighth  inch  squares;  fry  all  lightly  in 
butter  without  coloring,  then  add  chervil,  parsley  and  mushrooms,  all  well  chopped;  fry  once  more 
and  mix  with  veloute'  sauce  (No.  415);  warm  the  preparation  thoroughly  and  thicken  with  egg- yolks, 
cream,  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Dress  and  garnish  around  with  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  fried 
in  butter.  An  equal  quantity  of  potatoes  cut  the  same  size  as  the  chicken  may  be  added,  and  when 
the  whole  is  dressed  strew  the  top  with  chopped  parsley. 


694  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2293).  HASHED  CHICKEN,  BAKED  (Hachis  de  Volaille  an  Gratin), 

Cut  a  pound  of  the  white  meat  of  a  chicken  into  three-sixteenths  inch  squares.  Fry  one 
shallot  in  butter  without  allowing  it  to  brown,  add  some  reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  412)  and 
the  chicken,  seasoning  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  nutmeg.  Place  on  the  edges 
of  the  basin  of  a  dish  a  border  of  potato,  pushing  it  through  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  star-shaped 
socket;  fill  the  inside  of  this  border  with  the  hash,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  butter  over 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2294).   HASHED  LAMB  A  LA  CELESTINE— BAKED  (Hachis   d'Agneau  a  la   Celestine   au 

Gratin). 

Pare  a  kernel  of  a  raw  leg  of  lamb,  make  with  it  a  little  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  and  when 
passed  through  a  tammy  mix  into  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  chopped  truffles.  Suppress  the  skin 
and  sinews  from  a  pound  of  cooked  lamb's  meat,  either  the  saddle  or  leg;  chop  it  up  and  add  to  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  two  ounces  of  ham  chopped  the  same.  Reduce  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  incorporating  into  it  slowly  the  mushroom  broth  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine;  when  well  reduced  and  thick  withdraw  it  from  the  fire  to  stir 
in  the  prepared  hash;  heat  this  without  boiling,  season,  and  let  it  get  slightly  cold.  Use  half  of  the 
prepared  forcemeat  to  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  183);  fill  in  the  hollow  center 
with  hash,  cover  it  over  at  once  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  smooth  the  surface  and  be- 
strew with  bread-crumbs;  pour  some  melted  butter  over  and  bake  lightly  in  a  slow  oven. 

(2295).  HASHED  LAMB,  CREOLE  STYLE  (Hachis  d'Agneau  a  la  Creole). 
Have  one  pound  of  lean,  cold  leg  of  lamb  without  skin,  fat  or  sinews;  chop  it  up  finely  and  place 
it  in  a  high  saucepan  in  a  bain-marie  (Fig.  122)  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  a  few  peeled 
and  quartered  tomatoes,  fried  in  butter,  some  finely  shredded  green  peppers  and  plenty  of  season- 
ing. Dress  the  whole  in  a  rice  border,  made  by  boiling  some  rice  in  slightly  salted  water  with 
some  butter;  when  dry  place  it  in  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig.  139),  liberally  buttered,  and  set  it  in 
the  oven  covered  over  for  ten  minutes  to  dry  more  thoroughly.  Invert  it  on  the  center  of  a 
dish,  and  dress  the  hash  in  the  middle. 

(2296).  HASHED  LAMB  WITH  BANANAS  (Hachis  d'Agneau  aux  Bananes). 

Take  six  ounces  of  lean,  skinless  and  nerveless  cold  lamb  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
squares;  fry  a  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion  in  butter  and  when  done,  but  not  browned, 
add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  and  finely  minced  potatoes;  moisten  with  a  little  stock 
(No.  194a),  reduce  for  a  few  moments  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce,  and  add  the  lamb  cut  into 
squares;  heat  up  all  without  boiling  and  dress  on  a  dish,  surrounding  the  hash  with  slices  of 
bread  cut  in  triangles  and  fried  in  butter.  Decorate  the  top  of  the  hash  with  two  bananas  peeled 
and  cut  lengthwise  in  two,  roll  in  flour,  fry  them  in  very  hot  oil,  drain  and  cut  them  across  in  two 
and  with  these  quartered  fruits  garnish  the  top  of  the  hash. 

(2297).  HASHED  MUTTON  A  LA  OMER  PACHA  (Hachis  de  Mouton  a  la  Omer  Pacha). 

Suppress  all  the  fat,  sinews  and  skin  in  order  to  obtain  one  pound  of  lean,  cold  leg  of  mutton.; 
chop  it  up  finely  and  place  it  in  a  bain-marie  (Fig.  122)  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  reduced  sauce;  add 
to  this  some  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg; add  meat-glaze  (No.  402)  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Fry  in  hot  clarified  butter  some 
peeled  tomatoes,  cut  across  in  two  and  slightly  pressed  out;  season  them  with  salt,  mignonette  and 
chopped  parsley,  and  dress  these  halved  fried  tomatoes  in  a  ring  with  the  hash  laid  in  the  center; 
decorate  the  top  with  fried  croutons  of  bread  cut  in  the  shape  of  crescents. 

(2298).  PARTRIDGE  HASH  A  LA  CLEMENCEAU  (Hachis  de  Perdreaux  k  la  Olemenceau). 

Roast  two  partridges  on  the  spit;  lay  them  aside  to  cool,  then  lift  off  the  breasts,  suppress- 
ing the  skin,  b'-nes  and  sinews;  cut  these  meats  into  eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  having  half  as 
much  mushrooms  cut  the  same  size,  and  as  many  peeled  truffles  as  mushrooms;  add  to  it  the  cooked 
livers,  cut  exactly  a  like  size.  Make  a  light  roux  (No.  163),  add  to  it  the  gizzards  and  broken  up 
carcasses,  one  bay  leaf,  sage,  cloves  and  minced  shallot;  fry  together  with  the  roux,  moisten  with 
a  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a),  reduce  to  half  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy  without  pressure,  then 


MISCELLANEOUS    EXTREES.  695 

again  reduce  well  and  add  the  salpicon;  heat  up  without  boiling,  season  properly  and  dress  the 
hash  inside  a  potato  border;  bestrew  the  top  with  bread-crumbs  and  parmesan,  pour  over  butter 
and  brown  under  the  salmander  (Fig.  123).  This  hash  may  be  accompanied  by  poached  eggs 
laid  on  round  slices  of  toasted  bread  to  be  handed  around  at  the  same  time,  and  it  may  also 
be  served  without  the  border,  surrounding  it  simply  with  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  oil 

(2299).  HASHED  PHEASANT  (Hachis  de  Paisan). 

Chop  up  the  best  parts  of  a  cooked  and  pared  pheasant;  put  the  hash  into  a  small  saucepan; 
chop  up  also  three  peeled  truffles.  With  the  pheasant  bones  prepare  a  small  game  f  umet  (No.  397) 
and  thicken  it  with  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  reduce  this  with  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
and  when  very  hot  pour  it  over  the  hash,  mixing  in  the  truffles,  and  heat  up  the  whole  without 
boiling.  Dress  on  a  dish  and  surround  with  oval  game  quenelles,  cut  in  two  across,  bread-crumbed 
and  fried. 

(2300).  HASHED  VEAL  OAKES,  BRITTANY  STYLE  (Hachis  de  Veau  en  Galettes  a  la  Bretonne). 

Have  one  pound  of  lean  leg  of  veal  without  any  fat  or  sinews  whatever,  chop  it  up  and  mingle 
with  it  half  a  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork,  equally  chopped,  and  season  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper 
(No.  168)  and  mignonette;  chop  again  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  this  hash  into  a  vessel  and  stir 
well  into  it  two  egg-yolks  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms  fried  in  butter  and  minced  very 
fine;  roll  this  preparation  on  a  floured  table  into  one  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter  balls,  then 
flatten  them  down  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  with  the  blade  of  a  knife;  dip  them  in 
beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  smooth  the  surfaces  nicely.  Heat  some  melted  butter  in  a 
sautoir,  range  the  cakes  in  this  merely  to  stiffen  them  on  both  sides,  then  drain  off  half  of  the  fat 
and  moisten  to  their  height  with  some  gravy  (No.  404);  boil  up  the  liquid  and  place  the  saucepan 
in  the  oven  for  one  hour,  keeping  it  well  covered  and  basting  frequently  with  their  own  liquid; 
remove  them  from  the  sautoir  with  a  skimmer,  dress  them  in  a  deep  dish  and  cover  over  with  minced 
white  onions  prepared  beforehand,  but  having  half  of  the  strained  stock  from  the  cakes  added  at 
the  last  moment. 

(2301).  VENISON  HASH,  AMERICAN  STYLE  AND  WITH  POACHED  EGGS  (Hachis  de  Ohevreuil 

a  l'Am6ricaine  et  aux  (Eufs  Poche"s). 

Fry  in  a  sautoir  some  shallots,  parsley  and  chives;  do  not  color  them;  moisten  with  half  white 
wine  and  half  stock  (No.  194a),  add  as  much  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduce,  then  put  in  two- 
thirds  of  venison  and  one-third  of  mushrooms,  both  cut  up  in  quarter-inch  squares.  Prepare  a 
border  with  potato  croquette  preparation  softened  with  eggs,  push  it  through  a  cornet  on  to  the 
edge  of  the  inside  basin  of  the  dish,  using  a  channeled  socket;  then  fill  the  border  with  the  hash, 
bestrew  it  with  bread  raspings,  pour  over  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

A  more  simple  hash  can  be  prepared  with  cold  roasted  venison  and  cooked  potatoes,  equal 
quantities  of  both  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares.  Heat  without  boiling  in  a  poivrade  sauce  (No. 
522),  seasoned  to  taste.  Dish  it  up  very  hot  and  surround  with  croutons  fried  in  butter. 

(2302).  HASHED  WOODCOCK  IN  A  OROUSTADE  WITH  SOFT  EGGS  (Hachis  de  Becasses  en 

Croustade  aux  (Eufs  Mollets). 

Line  a  low  croustade  mold  (Fig.  152)  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  form  an  outer  edge  and 
egg  it  over  twice;  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  buttered  paper  and  fill  it  with  uncooked  rice,  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  and  then  empty  of  its  contents.  Take  the  meats  from  six  cooked  woodcock 
and  cut  them  into  small  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  after  suppressing  all  the  bones,  skin  and 
sinews.  Fry  the  intestines  in  butter,  pound  these  with  the  meat  from  the  legs,  etc.,  and  make  of 
it  a  puree  to  place  in  a  saucepan  with  the  fragments  and  parings;  add  a  few  minced  shallots  and 
boil  up  for  some  moments,  then  put  in  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  pass  the  whole  through  a 
tammy  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  now  add  the  woodcock  meats 
and  season  properly.  Fill  the  croustades  with  this  hash  and  on  top  of  it  range  either  well 
drained  poached  eggs  (No.  2931)  or  soft  eggs  (No.  2949).  This  hash  can  also  be  dressed  in  a  bread 
croustade  fried  in  butter. 


696  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2303),  TOTING  BABBIT   HASH  GARNISHED  WITH  CKOQUETTES  (Hachis  de  Lapefeaux 

Garni  de  Croquettes). 

Trim  nicely  the  meats  of  one  or  several  cold  roasted  young  rabbits,  cut  them  up  into  quarter- 
inch  squares.  Reduce  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  in  a  sautoir,  either  with  champagne  or 
good  white  wine,  to  the  consistency  of  half -glaze,  add  to  it  the  meats  and  season  well;  heat  it  up 
without  boiling  in  a  bain-marie  for  one  hour,  dish  up  the  hash  and  surround  it  with  small  round 
and  flat  young  rabbit  croquettes,  made  with  cold  rabbit  free  of  bones,  sinews  or  fat,  and  cut  up 
into  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  with  the  same  of  truffles  and  mushrooms;  mix  all  these 
together  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  finished  with  rabbit  fumet.  Fry,  wipe,  salt  and  dress 
them  around  the  hash,  scattering  chopped  parsley  over  the  whole. 

(2304),  "PAIN"  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  VILLAES  (Pain de  Volaille  alaVillars). 
Prepare  a  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89) ;  dilute  with  a  little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492).  Butter 
a  cylindrical- shaped  low  mold,  decorate  it  with  a  few  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles  and  fill  it  with  the 
forcemeat;  poach  by  putting  it  in  a  saucepan  with  water  to  half  its  height;  bring  the  water  to  the 
boiling  point  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven;  when  firm  to  the  touch  in  the  center  remove  from  the 
oven  and  unmold.  Have  the  breasts  and  minion  fillets  well  pared  and  free  of  sinews,  then  cut 
into  escalops;  saute  them  on  a  brisk  fire  with  some  minced  truffles,  season  and  drain  off  the 
butter,  replacing  it  by  a  little  Madeira  and  half-glaze  (No.  400),  adding  two  dozen  small  channeled 
mushroom  heads  (No.  118) ;  when  the  whole  is  very  hot  dress  the  mushrooms  around  the 
"  pain  "  and  the  escalops  and  truffles  in  the  center  of  it.  Serve  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  at  the 
same  time. 

(2305).  "PAIN"  OF  CRAWFISH,  CHAKTREUSE  (Pain  d'Ecrevisses,  Chartreuse). 
"With  some  raw  salmon  and  pike  meats  prepare  a  cream  forcemeat  of  fish  (No.  76);  prepare 
also  a  fine  montglas  with  truffles,  mushrooms  and  lobster-claw  meat,  cut  in  small  Julienne; 
mingle  all  with  some  good  thick  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  the  truffle  broth. 
Take  a  part  of  this  montglas  and  use  it  to  fill  seven  or  eight  scallop  shells,  smooth  and  round  the 
preparation  on  top  in  the  shape  of  a  dome  and  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  fish  cream  forcemeat  (No. 
76).  Butter  a  small,  narrow,  pyramidical  mold,  keep  it  on  ice  for  a  few  moments  and  then  line 


FIG.  424. 

the  sides  and  bottom  with  fish  cream  forcemeat  (No.  76),  leaving  a  hollow  space  in  the  center; 
fill  this  in  with  the  montglas  and  close  the  opening  with  a  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat.  Poach 
the  "  pain  "  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  bain-marie,  or  until  it  is  firm  to  the  touch  in  the  center, 
keeping  it  covered  with  a  round  piece  of  paper;  stand  the  shells  steadily  on  a  baking  sheet, 
push  into  a  slack  oven  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  and  before  taking  them  out  cover  the  tops 
with  a  little  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  and  finished  with  red  butter  (No.  580);  take 
out  at  once  and  keep  them  warm  for  two  minutes  at  the  oven  door,  then  remove  and  on  each  one  lay 
a  slice  of  lobster.  Invert  the  "pain"  on  a  small  cooked  noodle  paste  (No.  142)  foundation  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  high,  it  being  slightly  wider  than  the  mold;  coat  the  forcemeat  with  a  little  veloute" 
sauce  and  place  a  slice  of  lobster  exactly  on  the  center  of  the  "pain."  Dress  the  shells  around 
its  base  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful  of  veloute  sauce  finished  with  red  butter. 

(2306).  "PAIN"  OF  PHEASANT  WITH  CREAM  (Pain  de  Faisanala  Oreme). 

Pound  the  raw  meats  taken  from  a  pheasant;  season  and  rub  through  a  sieve;  return  this  to 
the  mortar  to  pound  again  with  four  egg-yolks  and  three-quarters  as  much  butter  as  there  is  pulp. 
Put  this  preparation  into  a  thin  iron  vessel  and  beat  it  on  ice  to  have  it  smooth  and  acquire  a  body, 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  697 

mixing  in  gradually  about  a  gill  of  raw  cream.  Fry  a  small  part  of  this  in  the  oven  in  a  diminu 
tive  mold  to  judge  of  its  consistency  and  rectify  it  if  found  necessary.  Prepare  a  montglas  of  cooked 
foies-gras,  truffles  and  very  red  freshly  cooked  and  tender  beef  tongue;  put  all  into  a  small  sautoir 
to  thicken  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  pheasant 
fumet  (No.  397)  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  bain-marie.  Butter  the  inside  of  mold  (Fig.  150),  using  a 
brush  dipped  in  clarified  butter,  and  fill  it  up  with  the  forcemeat;  smooth  the  top,  cover  with  a 
round  of  buttered  paper,  and  poach  it  in  a  bain  marie  for  twenty  minutes  or  until  firm  to  the 
touch.  After  removing  it  from  the  oven  wipe  dry  and  invert  it  on  a  rice  croustade  foundation  (Fig. 
9a)  fastened  on  a  dish;  it  should  be  an  inch  thick  and  a  very  little  wider  than  the  mold;  fill  the 
hollow  in  the  twist  with  the  montglas  and  cover  the  forcemeat  lightly  with  a  brush  dipped  in  the 
same  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Send  a  sauce-boat  of  this  same  sauce  to  the  table  with  the  "  pain." 

(2307).  "PAIN"  OF  PIKE  (Pain  de  Brochet). 

Pound  to  a  pulp  half  a  pound  of  pike  meat,  and  press  it  through  a  sieve;  work  it  in  a  mortar 
with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  two  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  salt  and  allspice;  mix  in  gradually 
four  eggs,  and  a  pint  of  cream,  and  set  this  preparation  into  small  buttered  molds,  cover  over  with 
a  buttered  paper,  and  close  the  lid;  but  should  the  molds  not  be  provided  with  covers,  then  lay 
over  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  on  top  set  a  tray  with  a  weight  on  it,  and  cook  them  in  a  bain-marie 
kept  at  the  boiling  point  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Unmold,  dress,  and  serve  separately  either  a 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  or  else  a  lobster  sauce  (No.  488),  but  to  either  one  or  the  other  add 
some  mushrooms,  lobster  cut  in  fillets  and  small  nonpareil  capers.  The  "  pains "  may  be  sur- 
rounded by  crawfish  tails  or  carp's  milts  sauted  in  butter  with  fine  herbs. 

(2308).  "PAIN"  OF  YOUNG  BABBITS  A  LA  MAINTENON  (Pain  de  Lapereaux  a  la  Maintenon). 

Bone  four  young  rabbits,  reserving  the  minion  fillets;  suppress  the  sinews  from  the  meats  and 
cut  them  into  dice;  also  cut  exactly  similar  a  third  as  much  fat  pork;  fry  both  these  in  butter  with 
parsley,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  all  finely  chopped,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  fine  spices;  when 
cold  pound  and  press  through  a  sieve,  adding  half  as  much  panada,  first  pounding  it,  then  mixing 
it  in  gradually  with  the  forcemeat  until  well  incorporated,  then  put  in  twelve£gg-yolks  singly,  and 
one  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  well  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397).  Grease  a 
cylindrical  mold  with  sponged  and  softened  butter,  decorate  it  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  and 
fill  with  the  prepared  forcemeat;  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  then  poach;  unmold,  glaze 
and  fill  the  center  with  a  stew  composed  of  truffles  and  mushrooms.  Cut  the  minion  fillets  on 
the  bias  in  three  lengthwise  pieces,  pare  them  evenly,  score  and  streak  with  truffles;  turn  them 
into  a  ring  form,  and  lay  them  into  a  generously  buttered  sautoir,  cover  over  wich  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven;  glaze  and  dress  them  on  top  of  the  "pain."  Cut  quarter-inch 
thick  slices  of  brain,  and  from  them  remove  twelve  rounds  with  an  inch  and  a  quarter  tin  tube, 
dip  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry;  garnish  the  "pain"  around  with  these  and  serve  with  a 
sauce-boat  of  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  game  fumet  (No.  397). 

(2309).  PATTY  A  LA  PALMERSTON-LAKGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pat6  Chaud  a  la  Palmerston). 

Prepare  a  hot  pie  crust  as  indicated  for  hot  pie  a  la  Bontoux  (No.  2314),  but  do  not  fill  it. 
Make  a  forcemeat  with  four  ounces  of  chicken  chopped  up  very  fine,  four  ounces  of  chopped  lean 
veal  and  a  pound  of  beef  kidney  suet  well  skinned  and  chopped;  mix  the  whole  well  together  and 
chop  once  more,  seasoning  with  salt,  spices  and  nutmeg.  Pound  well  in  the  mortar  with  two 
ounces  of  pate'-a-chou  panada  (No.  121),  add  to  the  forcemeat  a  little  at  a  time,  and  one  whole 
egg;  pound  well  together  until  it  becomes  exceedingly  smooth,  then  moisten  with  a  little  water  to 
soften;  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pie  with  this  forcemeat.  Have  some  escalops  of  sweet- 
bread fried  in  butter,  with  chicken  livers  and  bacon  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares  and  blanched,  some 
lean  cooked  ham  cut  the  same  size,  and  minced  veal  kidney  briskly  fried  in  butter.  With  this 
preparation  fill  up  the  hot  pie  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  the  above  forcemeat  and  over  this  place  a  flat 
ot  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  fastening  it  on  the  sides;  cut  away  all  the  surplus  paste  around,  pinch 
the  edges  and  egg  over.  Decorate  the  top  with  designs  cut  out  of  puff  paste,  egg  these  twice  and 
bake  the  pie  in  a  slack  oven;  when  ready  to  serve  raise  up  the  cover  and  pour  in  a  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413)  mingled  with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 


698  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2310).  PATTY  A  LA  KICHELIEU-HOT,  LAKGE  (Gros  Pat6  Chaud  a  la  Kichelieu). 
Butter  a  hot  pie  mold,  lay  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  covered  with  a  round  piece  of  buttered 
paper,  and  line  the  mold  with  paste  (No.  135);  let  it  reach  half  an  inch  above  the  mold,  cover  the 
bottom  and  sides  with  buttered  paper,  then  fill  it  up  with  rice  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper.  Dampen  the  inside  paste  and  place  a  layer  of  the  same  on  top,  flatten  the  two  layers 
together,  cut  off  the  surplus  paste  around  the  edge,  pinch  the  top  crest  and  the  edges,  egg  it  over 
and  bake  for  one  hour.  Cut  the  cover  inside  of  the  border,  empty  the  patty,  egg  over  inside  and 
outside,  return  to  the  oven,  without  the  cover,  until  it  assumes  a  nice  color.  Put  into  a  buttered 


FIG.  425. 

sautoir  twelve  blanched  lambs1  sweetbreads,  season  and  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a),  let  fall 
to  a  glaze  and  remoisten;  allow  the  liquid  to  reduce  once  more,  and  continue  until  the  sweetbreads 
are  moderately  cooked;  drain,  trim  and  divide  into  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  by  one 
and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  add  to  them  a  half  a  pound  of  mushroom  heads  cut  transversely 
into  thick  slices,  and  an  equal  amount  of  rounds  of  red  beef  tongue  the  same  size.  Mingle  these 
garnishings  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  the  mushroom  broth  and  a  few- 
spoonfuls  of  glaze  (No.  402).  Arrange  this  inside  the  pie,  forming  into  a  dome  on  top,  and  around 
it  dress  a  chain  of  halved  quenelles  of  veal  molded  with  a  soupspoon  (No.  155)  and  poached;  in  the 
center  range  a  pyramid  of  small  round  peeled  truffles  cooked  when  needed  with  Marsala  wine. 
Cover  the  quenelles  lightly  with  the  veloute  sauce.  Serve  the  pie  with  the  remainder  of  the 
veloute  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2311).  QUAIL  PATTIES-SMALL  (Petits  Pate's  de  Oailles). 

Bone  thoroughly  three  or  four  quails;  divide  each  one  in  two  parts,  season  and  cover  the  in- 
side with  forcemeat  (No.  81)  in  which  has  been  added  half  as  much  raw  game  forcemeat  (No.  91) 
and  chopped  truffles,  and  season  with  game  pie  spices  (No.  168);  envelop,  giving  the  quail  an  oval 
shape.  Cut  some  layers  of  pie  paste  (No.  145)  into  ovals  seven  inches  by  four  inches;  on  the 
center  of  one  put  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork  (No.  110);  over  this  spread  a  thin  layer  of  chopped  game 
forcemeat  (No.  66),  place  half  a  quail  on  top  and  moisten  the  paste  all  around;  wrapping  with 
this  paste,  fold  over  the  side,  then  roll  out  the  paste  on  each  end,  moisten  the  top  of  the  paste 
and  bring  the  two  ends  together  on  the  top;  cover  the  paste  with  a  thin  oval  layer  of  puff  paste 
(No.  145).  Make  a  small  opening  in  the  top,  range  the  patties  on  a  baking  sheet,  egg  them 
over,  make  fanciful  cuts  with  the  tip  of  a  knife,  and  cook  for  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Pour  into  the  opening  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  Madeira. 

(2312).  KEEDBIKD  PATTY— LAEGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pate  Chaud  de  Mauviettes). 

Butter  a  hot  pie  mold  (Fig.  153)  and  line  it  with  pie  paste  (No.  145).  Bone  the  breasts  of 
about  thirty  reed-birds;  fill  them  with  game  forcemeat  (No.  91)  and  an  equal  quantity  of  foies- 
gras  mixed  together,  having  some  chopped  truffles  added.  Heat  some  melted  fat  pork  in  a  sautoir; 
when  very  hot  range  the  birds  on  it  simply  to  stiffen  them,  season  and  let  get  cold.  Fill  the  mold 
with  the  reedbirds  and  game  forcemeat  (No.  91),  alternating  one  and  the  other  and  intermingling 
in  slices  of  raw  truffles;  have  it  dome-shaped,  then  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  this  with 
a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  fastening  the  edges  together;  cut  a  small  hole  in  the  center,  decorate  it, 
egg  over,  and  cook  the  pie  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  moderate  oven;  after  it  has  been  ten 
minutes  from  the  fire,  take  off  the  mold  and  open  and  suppress  the  pork.  Pour  in  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  brown  sauce  reduced  with  a  fumet  (No.  397;,  and  mix  with  it  a  little  Madeira;  put  back  the 
cover  and  serve. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  699 

(2313).  SWEETBEEAD  PATTY  A  LA  McALLISTEE-LAEGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pate"  Chaud  de  Eis  de 

Veau  a  la  McAllister). 

First  blanch  the  sweetbreads,  then  set  them  under  a  weight,  and  when  cold  escalop  and  fry 
them  in  butter  with  raw  ham  cut  in  dice-shaped  pieces  and  peeled  truffles;  moisten  with  Madeira 
wine  and  let  it  fall  to  a  glaze.  Line  a  plain  hinged  pie  mold  (Fig.  153)  with  foundation  paste 
(No.  135);  fill  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  mixed 
with  half  as  much  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78)  and  chopped  truffles;  finish  filling  the  mold  with 
the  sweetbreads,  lay  a  bed  of  forcemeat  on  top,  rounding  it  slightly;  moisten  the  edges  of  the 
paste  and  cover  with  a  flat  of  paste,  cut  flush  with  the  mold  and  pinched  all  around;  decorate 
the  top  with  lozenges  made  of  puff  paste  fragments  (No.  146);  egg  over  twice,  and  cook  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  two  hours  and  a  quarter.  When  done,  unmold  and  fill  the  pie  with  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  492). 

(2314).  PATTY  A  LA  BONTOUX— LAEGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pate"  Chaud  a  la  Bontoux). 
Make  a  pie  crust  in  a  mold,  imitating  the  pinchings  of  a  Strasburg  pate"  de  foies-gras  pie  with  a 
pate  de  foies-gras  pie  paste  (No.  135).  Cover  the  inside  with  buttered  paper  and  fill  it  with  rice, 
cover  with  a  round  of  paper,  moisten  the  edges,  and  cover  with  a  lid  of  the  same  paste,  fasten  to 
the  crust  of  paste,  cut  off  the  surplus  around,  pinch  the  edges,  decorate  the  dome  with  leaves  of 
noodle  paste  (No.  142),  and  in  the  center  place  an  imitation  artichoke  made  of  the  same  paste;  set 
it  in  a  moderate  oven  after  egging  over  twice,  and  when  done  remove  the  lid,  empty  and  egg  the 
exterior  surfaces,  then  let  attain  a  fine  golden  color.  In  case  there  be  an  empty  foies-gras  pie 
crust  on  hand  it  can  be  utilized.  Fill  either  one  or  the  other  with  a  bed  of  macaroni  mingled  with 
reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  tomatoes,  finished  with  butter,  parmesan,  and  meat  glaze  (No. 
402);  mix  in  also  with  the  macaroni  an  escalop  of  foies-gras,  truffles  and  hare  quenelles  made  with 
hare  forcemeat.  This  is  made  like  game  forcemeat,  substituting  hare  for  game  (No.  91).  Roll 
in  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  when  poached  remove 
the  paper  and  cut  into  thick  slices.  Heat  the  garnishing  well  without  boiling,  and  with  it  fill  the 
crust. 

(2315).  EEL  PIE-HOT  (Pat6  Ohaud  d'Anguilles). 

Cut  into  slices  two  pounds  of  skinned  eels  (No.  57),  having  it  well  cleaned,  suppressing  the  head 
and  thin  parts;  cut  the  remainder  into  three-inch  pieces,  and  be  careful  to  abstract  all  the  blood; 
wash,  wipe  dry,  then  bone  the  pieces  and  separate  the  meats;  lard  each  one  with  thin  slices  of 
truffle;  lay  the  fish  in  a  tureen,  season  and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brandy  or  Madeira  wine; 
let  macerate  for  a  couple  of  hours.  Fry  in  a  sautoir  with  some  butter  a  few  spoonfuls  of  shallots 
and  mushrooms;  lay  in  the  eel  fillets  and  let  them  simply  harden  while  turning  them  over,  then 


FIG.  426. 

add  the  Madeira  marinade  and  two  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  414);  at  the  first  boil  remove  the 
sautoir  from  the  fire  and  bestrew  the  fish  with  chopped  parsley.  Prepare  a  fish  forcemeat  (No. 
90),  finishing  it  with  four  spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  small  baking  sheet 
with  a  round  sheet  of  heavy  paper;  on  it  set  a  buttered  hot  pie  mold  with  hinges  (Fig.  153);  cover 
the  bottom  and  sides  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  and  cover  the  paste  with  a  layer  of  the  fish 
forcemeat,  then  fill  up  the  empty  center  with  the  eel  fillets  and  fine  herbs,  alternating  them  with 
layers  of  forcemeat;  fill  till  dome-shaped  on  top  above  the  edge  of  the  mold,  then  smooth  it  neatly 
and  lay  over  another  flat  of  the  same  paste,  attaching  it  to  the  sides  of  the  mold;  fasten  it  to  the 
projecting  borders  of  the  inside  paste  previously  dampened  with  a  brush;  cut  it  away  evenly,  press 
it  down  and  pinch  it  tastefully  through  its  thickness.  Make  a  small  aperture  on  the  summit  of  the 
dome;  moisten  the  surface  and  decorate  with  imitation  paste  leaves,  or  any  other  fanciful  design 


700  THE;  EPICUREAN. 

of  the  same,  then  brush  over  the  entire  top  and  border  with  egg;  set  the  pie  into  a  moderate  oven 
to  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  being  careful  to  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper  as  soon  as  the  paste 
is  well  dried.  After  taking  the  pie  from  the  oven,  lay  it  on  a  dish,  unmold  and  pour  into  the  in- 
side through  the  aperture  on  top,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced  with 
Madeira  wine. 

(2316),  FAT  LIVER  PIE,  ALSATIAN- LARGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pat6  Chaud  de  Foies-Gras 

a  1'Alsacienne). 

Line  a  hot  pie  mold  (Fig.  152)  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  made  with  egg-yolks,  not  having 
it  too  fine;  pinch  the  edges  prettily  and  fill  it  three  quarters  full  with  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81) 
mingled  with  half  as  much  raw  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91);  cover  this  forcemeat  with  a  round 
of  buttered  paper,  egg  the  edges  of  the  pie  and  cook  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour,  then  take  it  out 
and  suppress  a  part  of  the  forcemeat;  keep  the  pie  warm.  Select  two  fine  halves  of  fat  liver  of 
equal  size,  season  with  salt,  then  butter  them  with  a  brush,  cover  with  thin  bards  of  fat  pork  and 
inclose  in  an  envelope  of  paste  pie  (No.  144),  fastening  them  on  tightly  so  that  the  liver  can 


FIG.  427. 

thoroughly  poach  smothered;  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cook  for  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven. 
Prepare  a  garnishing  of  coarse  macaroni  one  and  a  quarter  inches  long;  mix  in  some  large  Julienne 
of  cooked  beef  tongue;  also  have  eighteen  uniform- sized  peeled  mushroom  heads.  After  the 
livers  have  been  taken  out  of  the  oven,  unwrap  and  cut  each  half  into  crosswise  slices  slightly  on 
the  bias;  between  each  one  of  these  lay  a  fine  slice  of  peeled  truffle  freshly  cooked  in  Madeira. 
Arrange  the  livers  to  give  them  a  nice  shape,  heat  them  in  a  slack  oven,  glazing  with  a  brush. 
Take  the  pie  from  the  heater  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  the  macaroni  garnishing;  lift  up  the 
slices  of  liver  one  by  one  with  the  aid  of  a  palette,  and  dress  them  one  beside  the  other  on  top  of 
the  garnishing;  coat  with  a  little  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  reduced  with  the  truffle  stock  and  then 
surround  the  base  with  the  mushroom  heads.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boatful  of  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  492). 

(2317),  PLOVER  PIE-LARGE,  HOT  (Gros  Pat6  Ohaud  de  Pluviers), 

Make  a  hot  pie  crust  the  same  as  for  Bontoux  (No.  2314).  Bone  one  dozen  plovers  or  more 
according  to  the  size  of  pie;  stuff  them  with  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  into  which  incor- 
porate one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares  of  truffles  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir  one  beside  the  other; 
moisten  with  a  little  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  prepared  with  white  wine  and  cook  on  a  moderate 
fire  until  done;  then  lay  them  in  another  sautoir  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with 
game  fumet  (No.  397),  and  a  garnishing  of  mushroom  heads  and  medium-sized  peeled  truffles; 
when  all  the  ingredients  are  very  hot  fill  the  hot  pie  crust  and  serve. 

(2318).  PATTIES  WITH  GRAVY-SMALL  (Petits  Pate's  an  Jus). 

Take  one  pound  of  lean  meat  from  the  thick  loin  end  and  free  it  of  fat  and  sinews;  chop  and 
pound  it  with  five  ounces  of  chopped  fat  salt  pork,  and  two  ounces 
of  bread  crumbs;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley. 
Line  some  round  channeled  tartlet  molds  with  fine  foundation 
paste  (No.  135);  cover  the  bottoms  with  a  layer  of  the  above  force- 
FIO.  488.  meat,  set  in  the  middle  a  ball  of  salpicon  a  la  financiere  with  truffles 

(No.  667),  and   finish  with  another  layer  of   the   forcemeat;  cover 

with  a  flat  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  place  on  this  a  round  flat  of  thin  puff  paste  (No.  146) 
one  inch  in  diameter,  egg  over,  and  with  the  point  of  a  knife  make  a  fanciful  rosette  on  the  top. 
Let  cook  for  half  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven;  remove,  lift  off  the  covers,  and  pour  in  some  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira  wine;  unmold  and  serve. 


MISCELLANEOUS    EXTREES.  701 

(2319).  WOODCOCK  PIE-HOT  (P&tf  Chaud  de  Brasses). 

Bone  six  very  clean,  singed  woodcock,  keeping  the  heads  which  should  be  cleaned,  the  eyes 
imitated  with  quenelle  forcemeat,  and  a  round  piece  of  truffle  for  the  pupil;  cook  the  intestines  in 
butter,  and  when  cold  pass  through  a  sieve  and  mix  them  with  some  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
91),  seasoned  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  duxelle,  and  chopped  parsley;  stuff  the  birds  with  this, 
enclose  well  the  dressing,  and  lay  them  in  bottomless  oval  molds  the  same  size  as  themselves 5 
cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  Make  a  fumet  (No.  397)  with  the 
bones,  adding  to  it  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  in  the  act  of  being  reduced;  take  away  a 
third,  and  to  the  remaining  two-thirds  add  some  truffles  and  mushrooms;  let  both  garnishing  and 
birds  be  cold.  Line  a  hot  pie  mold  (Fig.  152)  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  leaving  it  reach  above 
the  top;  fill  the  center  with  the  birds  and  garnishing  alternated,  then  wet  the  top  part  of  the  paste, 
and  cover  over  with  a  flat  of  the  same;  make  an  edge  reaching  half  an  inch  above  the  level  of  the 
mold,  pinch  it  on  the  side  and  top,  and  decorate  the  summit  either  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142), 
forming  an  aperture  in  the  center,  or  puff  paste  parings;  egg  over  twice;  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half;  add  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  to  the  remaining  two-thirds  of 
sauce  and  pour  it  into  the  hot  pie,  then  serve. 

(2320).  POTTED  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  NELSON  (Terrine  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Nelson), 
To  prepare  this  dish  it  will  require  a  covered  pie  dish  which  can  stand  the  heat  of  the  oven. 
Cut  slices  from  a  well-trimmed  tenderloin  of  beef  free  of  sinews,  and  season  them  with  pepper  and 
salt;  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pie  dish  with  a  layer  of  good  butter,  spread  over  this  some  minced 
onions,  and  on  the  onions  a  bed  of  minced  potatoes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  set  the 
slices  of  tenderloin  on  top.  Place  the  pie  dish  over  a  hot  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  it  into  a 
moderate  oven  for  forty-five  minutes;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  the  same 
quantity  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  mushroom  catsup;  sprinkle  over  the 
surface  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  parsley.  Serve  it  on  a  dish  over  a  folded  napkin. 

(2321).  POULPETONNIERE  OF  PIGEONS  (Poulpetonniere  de  Pigeons). 

To  be  made  with  two  pigeons.  Line  a  bottomless  oval  mold  two  inches  high  by  six  inches 
long  and  four  inches  wide  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  place  over  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  layer 
of  godiveau  (No.  82).  Mix  in  a  bowl  two  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  two  spoon- 
fuls of  sweetbread  parings  or  roast  veal,  either  of  these  to  be  chopped  up,  mixing  it  in  well;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  some  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Lay  a  layer  of  this  in  the 
oval  mold,  over  this  lay  two  pigeons  cut  in  four  pieces,  fried  in  butter,  then  drained  and  moistened 
with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404)  and  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  cooked  for  half  an  hour  and  cooled. 
Spread  over  some  fine  herbs,  finishing  with  another  layer  of  godiveau;  cook  in  a  slack  oven, 
remove  the  mold,  dress  and  pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  potted  pigeon  sauce  after  it  has  been 
strained  and  thickened  with  butter. 

',2322).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  PUDDING  WITH  OYSTERS  (Ponding  de  Filet  de  Bosnf  anx  Hnitres). 
Pour  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  on  the  table,  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  so  that  the  flour 
forms  a  crown,  and  in  the  hollow  of  the  crown  set  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef  kidney  suet, 
after  removing  the  skin  and  fibers,  and  chopping  it  up  well;  add  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  half  a  pint 
of  water,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  quantity  the  paste  can  absorb,  and  in  order  to  obtain  a 
firm  paste  without  its  crumbling;  let  it  repose  for  one  hour  or  more,  then  roll  it  out  to  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  butter  the  inside  of  a  dome-shaped  mold,  line  it  nicely  with  the 
above  paste,  then  cut  some  slices  of  tenderloin,  about  two  ounces  in  weight  each,  trim  them  and 
season  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Fry  in  butter  without  browning  two  ounces  of  chopped  onions, 
add  to  it  the  slices  of  tenderloin,  leaving  them  in  just  time  enough  to  stiffen,  then  remove  them 
and  lay  them  in  an  earthen  bowl;  add  to  the  butter  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  let  cook  for  a  few- 
minutes;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white  wine,  and  with  this  make  a  little  stiff  sauce; 
pour  it  over  the  tenderloin,  and  when  all  is  nearly  cold  fill  the  mold  with  layers  of  the  tenderloin, 
the  sauce  and  some  raw  oysters,  drained  and  well  dried,  removing  the  hard  parts  of  the  oyster. 
When  the  mold  is  nearly  full,  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste,  and  cover  with  an  upper  crust,  pressing 
it  down  on  to  the  lower  crust;  cover  it  over  with  a  damp,  buttered  and  floured  cloth,  fastening  it 
on  tight,  then  plunge  it  into  hot  water  to  boil  for  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Unmold  and 
serve  with  an  English  brown  sauce  (No.  1571). 


702  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2323;.  LAMB  PUDDING-MINIOF  PILLETS  A  LA  GLADSTONE  (Ponding  de  1'ilets  Mignons 

d'Agneau  a  la  Gladstone). 

Fry  lightly  in  butter  one  ounce  of  chopped  onions  and  shallots,  fry  separately  some  yearling 
lamb  minion  fillets,  then  mingle  the  two  together,  adding  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  some  Harvey 
sauce,  gravy,  salt  and  pepper.  Line  a  mold  (Fig.  151),  from  which  the  inside  has  been 
removed,  with  beef  suet  paste,  made  as  explained  in  woodcock  pudding  (No.  2325),  fill  it 
up  with  alternate  layers  of  the  meat  and  minced  potatoes;  pour  the  sauce  over,  moisten  the 
edges  of  the  paste  and  cover  over  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  lay  on  a  buttered,  floured  soft  towel 
and  tie  it  all  around  with  a  string,  then  plunge  the  pudding  in  boiling  water  and  leave  it  to  cook 
for  two  hours:  remove  the  towel,  unmold,  glaze  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  spread  on  with  a  brush 
and  serve. 

(2324).  THRUSH  PUDDING  (Ponding  de  Grives). 

Butter  and  line  a  dome-form  mold  with  a  woodcock  pudding  paste  (No.  2325),  made  with  beef 
suet,  butter,  salt  and  flour.  Fry  in  butter  over  a  quick  fire,  some  fat  pork,  ham  and  twenty-four 
boneless  thrushes;  as  soon  as  done,  drain  off  the  fat  and  add  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley,  Madeira 
sauce  and  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Place  all  of  this  in  the  dome  and  cover  with  a  flat  of  the  same 
paste;  lay  a  wet  and  buttered  cloth  over  and  fasten  it  strongly  underneath  on  the  rounded  side,  set 
this  in  boiling  water  and  let  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  unwrap  and  turn  it  out  of  the  mold  on  a 
hot  dish  and  pour  over  a  good  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  with  game  essence  added  (No.  389),  serving 
a  part  of  it  separately. 

(2325).  WOODCOCK  PUDDING  (Ponding  de  Brasses). 

Cut  up  two  clean  raw  woodcocks,  dividing  each  one  into  five  or  six  pieces,  then  season.  Pre- 
pare a  paste  with  a  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  beef  suet,  a  little 
water  and  salt;  give  it  two  turns  like  a  puff  paste,  roll  it  out  and  use  it  to  line  a  half  spherical- 
shaped  mold;  bestrew  the  bottom  with  raw  onions,  shallot,  fresh  mushrooms  and  parsley  all  finely 
chopped,  and  on  this  range  the  pieces  of  woodcock,  dredging  them  over  with  chopped  parsley.  Cook 
the  intestines  taken  from  the  birds  with  grated  fat  pork,  press  through  a  sieve  and  dissolve  with 
a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400),  then  pour  it  over  the  woodcocks.  Close  the  opening  with  a  layer 
of  the  same  paste,  fastening  it  well  to  the  edges,  and  place  the  large  part  of  the  mold  on  the 
middle  of  a  wet  towel  and  tie  the  ends  firmly  on  the  top  or  round  part  of  the  mold.  Cook  the 
pudding  for  two  hours  in  boiling  water,  then  drain  off  the  mold,  untie  the  towel  and  turn  the 
pudding  over  on  a  dish,  remove  the  mold  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  little  sauce 
reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  truffle  peelings;  glaze  the  paste  with  a  brush  and  serve 
with  a  separate  sauce  reduced  with  game  fumet. 

(2326),  CHICKEN  QUENELLES  A  LA  DREW  (Quenelles  de  Volaille  a  la  Drew). 

Butter  some  oval  molds  three  inches  long  by  two  wide  and  two  and  a  quarter  inches  deep; 
decorate  them  with  cuts  of  truffles  and  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
89),  then  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Prepare  some  forcemeat  croutons  so  that  when  they  are  trimmed 
and  fried  they  will  be  exactly  the  same  size  as  the  quenelles  and  each  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick; 
these  are  to  be  made  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78), 
half  of  each,  mixed  well  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  Spread  this  on  sheets  of  strong  buttered 
paper  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven ;  when  cold  dip  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a 
fine  color;  drain,  wipe  and  dress  these  around  a  croustade  (Fig.  8)  made  of  fine  foundation  paste 
(No.  135),  fastened  with  paste  on  to  the  center  of  a  dish,  pouring  a  little  supreme  sauce  (No.  547) 
around.  Unmold  the  quenelles  and  lay  them  on  the  forcemeat  croutons;  fill  the  croustade  with 
whole  peeled  truffles  and  channeled  fresh  mushrooms  (No.  118);  cover  these  garnishings  with 
supreme  sauce  (No.  547) ;  finish  when  ready  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter,  range 
some  trussed  crawfish  on  top  of  the  garnishing,  then  serve. 

(2327).  CHICKEN  QUENELLES  A  LA  RICHELIEU  (Quenelles  de  Volaille  a  la  Richelieu). 

Decorate  some  oval-shaped  molds  with  fanciful  cuts  of  very  black  truffles. 
Pound  one  ounce  of  truffles  with  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  rice  and  half 
as  much  fresh  butter,  adding  one  or  two  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (No. 
409),  pass  all  through  a  sieve  and  let  get  very  cold.     Garnish  half  of  the 
FIG  42t»  molds  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  ^o.  89),  lay  the  prepared  truffle  puree 

in  the  center,  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat  and  poach  them  in  a  slack 
oven;  as  soon  as  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  unmold  and  dress  them  crown-shaped;  serve  separately 
a  PSrigueux  sauce  (No.  517). 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  703 

(2328).  CHICKEN  QUENELLES,  BEETONNE  (Quenelles  de  Poulet  Bretonne), 
This  entree  is  to  be  dressed  on  a  paste  foundation  that  covers  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  the  sides  of 
it  to  be  decorated,  and  it  should  have  a  round  flat  support  in  the  center,  shaped  rather  on  a  slope 
and  two  inches  high;  this  support  is  to  be  made  of  fried  bread  covered  with  forcemeat  and 
poached  in  a  slack  oven.  In  this  manner  the  quenelles  will  have  a  firm  foundation  to  stand  against, 
and  the  mushrooms  being  supported  by  this  prop  cannot  impair  the  solidity  of  the  circle, 
but  in  order  to  be  perfectly  safe  it  were  better  that  the  bottom  of  the  dish  be  provided  with  an  out- 


Fio.  430. 

standing  ledge,  thus  giving  more  strengtn  to  the  circle.  Prepare  a  pretty  garnishing  of  turned 
mushrooms  (No.  118)  of  even  size,  and  cooked  very  white;  have  some  minced  onions  also  prepared, 
reduced  with  good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and  thickened  off  the  fire  with  two  egg-yolks,  finish- 
ing with  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Pound  the  raw  meats  of  a  large  chicken,  mixing  in  a  third  as  much 
pate-a-choux  panada  (No.  121),  adding  it  very  slowly  so  that  the  meats  will  take  some  time  to  pound, 
then  put  in  about  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  the  minced  onions.  When  all  is  well  mingled  add  two 
or  three  raw  yolks;  pass  this  forcemeat  through  a  sieve,  lay  it  aside  in  a  metal  bowl,  smooth  it  on 
ice,  and  mold  it  into  about  fifteen  handsome  quenelles  (No.  154);  poach  and  remove  carefully  with 
a  skimmer;  drain  on  a  cloth,  and  dress  them  at  once  in  a  uniform  circle,  slightly  spreading  out- 
ward; arrange  the  mushrooms  on  top  of  the  support,  and  cover  them  with  a  little  good  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  with  the  mushroom  broth  and  parings;  serve  more  of  this  sauce  apart. 

(2329).  QUENELLES  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  CONSOMME'  (Quenelles  de  Poulet  au  Consomme). 
Prepare  a  quenelle  forcemeat  with  the  breasts  of  two  chickens  the  same  as  for  No.  89;  form 
a  small  quenelle  and  throw  it  into  a  little  boiling  broth;  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  poach  it  for 
about  ten  minutes,  cut  it  in  two  to  be  assured  of  its  delicacy,  and  if  found  too  hard  add  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  to  the  forcemeat,  and  if  too  soft  a  little  panada 
(No.  121),  pounding  it  well  and  adding  only  a  small  quantity  at  a  time;  then  place  the  forcemeat  in 
a  tin  vessel  and  lay  it  on  ice.  Put  the  four  well -roasted  legs  and  all  the  fragments  of  the  chickens 
into  a  saucepan,  with  the  exception  of  the  livers  and  gizzards,  moisten  to  the  height  of  the  meats 
with  some  good  stock  (No.  194a),  then  boil  and  skim;  add  an  onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  a  minced 
carrot  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  a  bay  leaf;  let  cook  for  one  hour  on  a  very  slow  fire, 
then  strain,  skim  off  the  fat,  clarify  and  pour  it  through  a  napkin;  it  should  be  of  a  fine  color.  An 
hour  and  a  quarter  before  serving  butter  a  sauteing  pan  liberally,  having  it  large  enough  to  hold 
twelve  soupspoon  quenelles,  and  mold  them  as  explained  in  No.  155.  Twenty  minutes  before 
serving  put  this  sauteing  pan  on  the  range  and  moisten  the  quenelles  with  some  of  the  boiling 
broth  (No.  194a);  cover  and  set  it  on  one  side  to  poach  without  boiling;  as  soon  as  they  feel  hard 
under  the  pressure  of  the  finger,  and  have  risen  to  the  surface  of  the  broth,  drain  them  on  to  a 
white  cloth  and  lay  them  either  in  a  vegetable  dish  or  a  silver  one  and  pour  the  boiling  prepared 
consomme  over. 

(2330).  QUENELLES  OF  FISH,  MONTGLAS  (Quenelles  de  Poisson  a  la  Montglas). 
This  entree  is  to  be  dressed  in  the  center  of  a  carved  border  made  of  rice  croustade  (No.  160). 
Prepare  a  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  with  pike  perch;  when  strained  put  it  into  a  thin 
metal  vessel,  and  with  a  spoon  incorporate  in,  while  working  it  on  ice,  two  spoonfuls  of  good 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced  with  a  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  curry,  diluting  with  the 
mushroom  liquor;  keep  the  forcemeat  on  ice.  With  the  head  and  parings  of  the  pike  perch  make 
a  good  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39);  strain,  free  it  of  fat,  and  reduce  to  a  half-glaze.  Put 
on  to  reduce  three  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  incorporate  the  court-bouillon  slowly  into 
it,  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  reduced  mushroom  broth.  Strain  the  sauce  when  succulent  and 
sufficiently  thickened;  pour  it  into  a  small  saucepan  and  stir  it  occasionally  on  the  sidt- 


704 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


of  the  range.  Prepare  a  plentiful  montglas,  composed  of  truffles,  mushrooms,  and  cooked  lobster- 
claw  meat;  mingle  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  keep  it  in  a  bain- 
marie;  prepare  also  a  fine  salpicon  of  trimmed  and  poached  oysters,  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good 
reduced  veloute  sauce  and  the  oyster  liquor,  finishing  with  a  coffeespoonful  of  anchovy  essence, 
paste  or  puree;  let  this  preparation  get  cool,  then  divide  it  into  small  parts,  and  roll  each  one  to  the 
shape  of  a  long  olive.  With  the  fish  forcemeat  mold  some  quenelles  with  a  soupspoon  (No.  155)-, 


FIG.  431. 

stuff  them  with  the  salpicon  rolled  in  olive-shapes,  and  cover  with  more  of  the  forcemeat; 
smooth  the  surfaces  nicely;  poach  these  quenelles  in  salted  water  without  allowing  the 
liquid  to  boil,  and  as  soon  as  the  forcemeat  stiffens  drain  on  to  a  cloth.  Dress  the  montglas  in 
the  center  of  the  rice  border,  and  between  the  latter  and  the  montglas  range  the  quenelles  stand- 
ing almost  upright;  cover  them  lightly  with  the  prepared  sauce,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  bowl- 
ful of  the  same,  buttering  it  well,  and  finishing  it  at  the  last  moment  with  a  piece  of  lobster 
butter  (No.  580). 


(2331),  QUENELLES  OF  FOIES-GrRAS,  STUFFED  A  LA  FINANOIEEE  (Quenelles  de  Foies-Gras 

Fourre'es  a  la  Financiere). 

Fasten  a  bread  or  rice  croustade  on  a  dish  as  shown  in  Fig.  431,  hollowing  it  one  inch  only 
on  the  top;  in  the  center  place  a  rice  support  slightly  conical  in  shape  and  two  inches  high.  Have 
this  croustade  fastened  on  a  dish  and  keep  it  covered.  Prepare  a  montglas  of  truffles;  mix  it 
with  a  very  thick  brown  sauce  (No.  414),  leave  to  cool,  then  divide  it  into  small  parts  and  roll  each  of 
these  into  long  olives.  Pound  a  raw  foies-gras,  season  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve;  pound  also  half 
as  much  breast  of  raw  chicken  and  add  slowly  to  it  half  the  same  quantity  of  bread  panada  (No. 
121);  press  this  forcemeat  through  a  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  mortar,  season  and  pound  onca 
more,  incorporating  in  gradually  the  pounded  foies-gras  and  three  or  four  egg-yolks;  season 


FIG.  432. 

highly;  smooth  by  beating  on  ice,  then  try  a  small  piece  to  judge  of  its  consistency.  With  the 
bones,  fragments  of  chicken  and  broth  prepare  a  supreme  sauce  (No.  547);  keep  it  in  a  bain-marie. 
Butter  a  dozen  quenelle  molds,  decorate  them  with  truffles  (Fig.  75),  fill  them  full  of  forcemeat, 
form  a  depression  in  the  center,  place  in  one  of  the  montglas  olives  and  cover  with  more  force- 
meat so  that  it  lies  exactly  in  the  center  of  the  quenelle;  smooth  dome-form  with  the  blade  of  a 
small  wet  knife  to  have  it  a  perfect  shaped  quenelle.  Range  these  molds  on  a  deep  baking  pan 
containing  a  little  hot  water,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Remove  and 
dress  them  almost  upr.ght  on  the  croustade,  leaning  them  against  the  support,  and  finally  cover 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  705 

with  a  little  of  the  supreme  sauce.  Fill  the  empty  space  in  the  center  with  a  tastefully  arranged 
cluster  of  mushrooms  and  imitation  cocks'-combs  made  of  veal  palates,  masking  them  with  more 
of  the  sauce,  and  in  the  middle  lay  a  fine  glazed  truffle;  cover  very  lightly  with  the  sauce  and  serve 
what  remains  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2332).  QUENELLES  OF  GROUSE,  LONDONDERRY  (Quenelles  de  Te~tras  Londonderry). 
Obtain  some  oval-shaped  molds  three  inches  long  by  two  and  a  quarter  wide,  they  being  half 
an  inch  thick;  butter  them  over  with  cold  fresh  butter  and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  very 
black  truffles  (Fig.  75);  cover  the  bottoms  with  grouse  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  and  fill  up 
the  center  with  a  salpicon  of  grouse  and  mushrooms,  half  of  each,  thickened  with  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492),  then  let  stand  till  cold.  Cover  over  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  smooth  the  surface  and 
poach  in  boiling  water,  having  just  sufficient  to  reach  halfway  up  the  molds.  When  firm  to  the  touch 
uninold,  drain  and  dress  on  a  dish  bottom  having  a  support  on  top  filled  with  truffles;  cover  the 
quenelles  with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  and  game  fumet(No.  397),  and  also  serve  a  sauce-boatful  of 
the  sauce. 

(2333).  QUENELLES  OP  PARTRIDGE  A  LA  STUART  (Quenelles  de  Perdreau  a  la  Stuart). 
Have  oval-shaped  molds,  and  decorate  them  with  fanciful  cuts  of  very 
black  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue;  garnish  half  of  each  mold  with  a  delicate 
partridge  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  lay  in  the  center  some  cold  cooked  fine 
herbs  (No.  385)  reduced  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  cover  with  more 
of  the  forcemeat;  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven,  arid  serve  with  a  separate 
sauce-boat  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  finished  with  essence  of  truffles 
(No.  395;. 

(2334).  QUENELLES  OF  PHEASANT-FRIED  (Quenelles  de  Faisan  Frites). 
With  some  raw  pheasant  meat  taken  from  the  breasts  prepare  a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91), 
and  when  passed  through  a  sieve  put  it  in  a  tin  vessel  and  cook  until  smooth;  mix  in  with  it  two 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles;  use  this  to  fill  a  dozen  quenelle  molds  (Fig.  75);  have  the  tops  quite 
high  and  smooth.  Ksnge  these  molds  on  a  raised-edge  baking  tin  containing  a  little  hot  water; 
boil  the  liquid  up  twice,  then  cover  the  molds  with  buttered  paper  and  poach  uncovered  in  a  slack 
oven;  when  firm  to  the  touch  remove.  Cool  them  off  partly  before  unmolding,  then  dip  in  eggs, 
then  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(2335).  QUENELLES  OF  SALMON-STUFFED  (Quenelles  de  Saumon    FOUCT&B). 
Fasten  on  to  the  center  of  an  entree  dish  a  wooden  bottom  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness; 
cover  it  with  a  thin  flat  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142);  in  the  middle  of  this  fasten  a  small  round  sup- 
port cut  sloping,  and  on  top  set  a  small  basket,  all  of  these  being  covered  with  noodle  paste;  the 


FIG.  434. 

inside  must  also  be  covered,  and  the  outside  with  ornamental  leaves  cut  from  the  same  paste.  Egg 
over  this  paste  and  dry  it  for  a  few  hours.  Prepare  a  forcemeat  with  ten  ounces  of  salmon,  eight 
ounces  of  panada  (No.  121),  eight  ounces  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  and  four  egg-yolks;  rub  it 
through  a  sieve  and  when  very  smooth  try  a  small  piece  to  rectify  if  necessary;  let  this  harden  on 
the  ice  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  frequently.  Make  a  fine  truffled  montglas  with  mushrooms  and 
truffles  thickened  with  a  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduced  and  finished  with  a  few  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  fish  glaze  (No.  399);  let  this  preparation  get  cold  and  divide  into  small  parts  and  roll  into 


706  THE    EPICUREAN. 

long-shaped  olives.  Have  the  forcemeat  very  smooth  and  form  it  into  quenelles  with  a  spoon 
(No.  155),  and  stuffing  each  one  with  a  little  montglas  poach  them  in  salted  water,  drain  on  a  cloth 
and  decorate  the  smoothest  side  with  a  truffle  lozenge,  fastening  it  on  with  a  little  of  the  uncooked 
forcemeat.  Dress  these  quenelles  in  a  circle  around  the  base  on  the  dish,  inclining  them  some- 
what; fill  the  basket  with  small  truffles,  cover  the  quenelles  lightly  with  a  little  good  lean  veloute 
sauce  (No.  416)  reduced  with  fish  court-bouillon  (No.  38)  and  mushroom  broth,  having  a  separate 
sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce.  The  truffles  in  the  basket  may  be  replaced  by  mushrooms  or  a  small 
pyramid  of  crawfish  tails  or  shrimps  dressed  around  a  bed  of  fresh  parsley. 

(2336).  SPEING  TURKEY  QUENELLES  A  LA  PEOVIDENOE  (Quenelles  de  Dindonneau  a  la 

Providence). 

Decorate  some  oval-shaped  molds  (Fig.  75)  with  red  tongue,  truffles  and 
pistachios;  fill  them  half  full  with  some  very  mellow  turkey  quenelle  force- 
meat (No.  89),  and  lay  in  the  center  a  royal  salpicon  (No.  751);  cover  with 
more  forcemeat  and  poach  them  in  a  slow  oven;  unmold  and  dress  them 
crown-shaped,  filling  the  well  with  shrimps  rolled  in  a  little  chicken  glaze  FlG  435 

(No.  398),  lemon  juice  and  lobster  butter  (No.  580).     Dress  over  a  printaniere 
sauce  (No.  546)  and  serve  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  the  same  sauce. 

(2337).  WOODCOCK  QUENELLES  A  LA  D'AKTOIS  (Quenelles  de  Becasses  a  la  d'Artois), 

Butter  some  pieces  of  strong  paper  three  inches  by  four,  spread  on  them  a  layer  of  woodcock 
quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  oval-shaped,  two  and  a  half  inches  long  by 
one  and  a  half  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  garnish  the  centers 
with  a  brown  montglas  (No.  747),  and  cover  with  another  layer  of  the 
quenelle  forcemeat,  having  it  dome-shaped,  and  smoothing  with  a  knife. 
Decorate  the  top  with  truffles  and  red  tongue;  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat 
FIG.  436.  pork  and  a  strong  buttered  paper,  then  poach  them  in  a  slack  oven  until 

they  are  firm  to  the  touch;  dress  them  crown-shaped  in  a  dish,  cover  them 

with  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492);  serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  the  same 

sauce. 

(2338).  SALPICON  OF  CHICKEN,  BAKED  (Salpicon  de  Volaille  au  Gratin). 

Take  one  pound  of  white  meat  of  a  cooked  chicken,  cut  it  into  small  dice  and  put  the  pieces 
in  a  saucepan  with  four  spoonfuls  of  cooked  lean  ham,  and  as  much  mushrooms,  all  to  be  cut  alike, 
and  mingle  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  finishing  the  preparation 
with  a  small  piece  of  melted  chicken  glaze  (No.  398).  Pour  the  whole  into  a  small  pie  dish  (Fig.  183), 
smooth  it  to  a  dome  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  duchess  potato  preparation  (No.  2785),  smooth  again, 
butter  over  the  top  and  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan;  bake  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  in  a  slack  oven  and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 


(2339).  SHELLS  BENOITON  (Coquilles  Benoiton). 

Prepare  the  samesauce  as  for  a  la  Villa  (No.  2340),  mixing  into  it  a  third  each  of  whole  braised 
chestnuts  (No.  654),  fine  mushroom  heads  and  whole  small  truffles:  strew  the  tops  with  unsmoked 
beef  tongue  and  green  pistachios,  both  cut  up  in  small  one-eighth  inch  squares;  then  dredge 
with  bread-crumbs  and  butter.  Brown  in  a  moderate  oven  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  and  serve. 


(2340).  SHELLS  OP  OYSTEES  A  LA  VILLA  (Coqxiilles  d'Huitres  a  la  Villa). 

Poach  the  oysters,  drain  and  suppress  the  hearts.  Saute  in  butter  half  as  much  escalops  of 
cooked  lobster,  and  half  as  much  white  part  of  cooked  chicken  as  lobster.  Cut  the  poached 
oysters  in  five-eighths  of  an  inch  squares,  mingle  with  the  lobster,  chicken  and  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  409),  thickening  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter;  use  this  preparation  to  fill  up  some 
buttered  and  bread-crumbed  clean  oyster  shells;  when  very  full  sift  over  each  a  little  fried  bread- 
crumbs, and  set  them  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 


MISCELLANEOUS    EXTREES.  707 

(2341).  SHELLS  FILLED  WITH  OKAWFISH  TAILS  (Coquilles  Garnies  de  Queues  d'Ecrevisses). 

Prepare  a  salpicon  with  the  meats  picked  from  the  large  claws  and  the  tails  of  crawfish;  add  to 
it  a  third  as  much  cooked  mushrooms,  cut  in  dice  shape,  and  mingle  with  some  good  reduced  thick 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  with  this  fill  eight  or  ten  silver  or  china  table  shells  (Fig.  438);  smooth 


FIG.  437. 

the  preparation  to  a  dome  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  the  cream  fish  forcemeat  (No.  76).  Eange  the 
shells  on  a  small  baking  sheet,  dredge  the  forcemeat  with  grated  parmesau  and  brown  for  five 
minutes  under  the  salamander  (Fig.  123);  keep  the  shells  hot  at  the  oven  door  for  five  minutes 
longer,  then  dress  them  symmetrically  on  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  white  paper;  surround 
this  foundation  with  green  parsley  leaves. 

(2342).  SHELLS  EILLED  WITH  SHEIMPS  AND  OYSTEE  CRABS  (Ooquilles  Garnies  de  Orevettes 

et  de  Orabes  d'Huitres). 

Put  the  oyster  crabs  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  with  a  little  white  wine, 
and  when  poached  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  the  same  amount  of 
cooked  and  shelled  shrimps  fried  in  butter;  add  lean  bechamel  cream  sauce 
FIG.  438.  (No.  411)  that  has  been  well  seasoned;  with  this  fill  some  buttered  and  breaded 

silver  shells  (Fig.  438)  or  else  clean  clam  shells;  throw  bread -crumbs  over,  baste 
with  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2343).  SHELLS  OF  BEEF  PALATES  ALA  MAEINLEEE  (Ooquilles  de  Palais  de  Bceuf  a  la  Mariniere). 

Have  some  beef  palates  cooked  and  pressed  as  explained  for  a  la  bechamel  (No.  1326),  cut  them 
in  fillets  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square  by  one  inch  in  length.  Place  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces 
of  butter,  and  some  finely  chopped  shallots  and  mushrooms;  moisten  with  a  little  white  wine,  add 
a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  reduce,  season  to  taste,  then  add  the  beef  palates,  heat  and  thicken 
the  sauce  with  egg-yolks  and  cream.  Butter  well  some  shells  (Fig.  438),  besprinkle  over  with  bread- 
crumbs and  fill  them  with  the  above  preparation,  keeping  them  slightly  dome-shaped  on  top.  Cover 
with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  dredge  over  some  grated  bread-crumbs  and  parmesan  cheese,  and 
pour  melted  butter  over  the  top.  Brown  them  nicely  in  a  warm  oven  and  arrange  them  on  a 
napkin  with  green  sprigs  of  parsley  around. 

(2344).  SHELLS  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  SHAW  (Coquilles  de  Poulet  k  la  Shaw). 

Cook  two  tender  chickens,  each  one  to  weigh  two  pounds  and  a  half,  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix 
stock  (No.  419),  and  when  done  strain  the  stock  over  and  let  get  cold  in  this;  then  suppress  the 
skin,  fat  and  bones  and  cut  up  the  meat  into  five-eighths  inch  squares.  Cook  the  livers  with  the 
fat  skimmed  from  the  mirepoix  stock  and  chop  them  up  when  cold;  also  chop  up  six  hard-boiled 
eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  separately.  Put  the  chicken  meat  into  a  sautoir  with  the  chopped 
livers  and  eggs,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan 
with  two  ounces  of  flour,  stir  it  well,  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  mix  into  it  the 
stock  from  the  chickens,  having  two  gills  of  it;  then  boil  it  up,  stirring  continuously,  and  add  a  gill 
of  cream;  simmer  the  whole  and  thicken  with  six  egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  cream  without 
allowing  it  to  boil,  rolling  the  ingredients  into  the  sauce  while  tossing  without  using  any  spoon, 
and  season  properly;  lastly  add  a  glassful  of  sherry  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice;  fill 
up  the  shells,  dredge  over  parmesan  cheese  and  color  in  a  hot  oven  or  under  the  salamander 
(Fig.  123). 


708  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2345),  SHELLS  OP  CHICKEN  OE  SWEETBEEADS  (Coquilles  de  Volaille  ou  de  Eis  de  Veau). 

Have  either  some  silver  or  china  shells  (Fig.  438)  or  else  some  scallop  shells;  butter  and  dredge 
over  with  bread-crumbs;  mince  some  braised  white  meat  of  chicken  or  else  sweetbreads  with  half 
as  many  mushrooms  and  put  it  into  a  sautoir;  mix  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  let  all  boil, 
then  thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks,  cream  and  fresh  butter.  Fill  the  shells  with  this  preparation, 
bestrew  the  tops  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  grated  parmesan,  and  baste  with  melted  butter; 
brown  in  a  brisk  oven. 

(2346).  SHELLS  OF  PISH  (Ooquilles  de  Poisson). 

Cook  a  prepared  sea  bass  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  then  drain,  suppress  the  skin  and  bones 
and  only  use  the  meat  after  shredding  it  well;  reduce  some  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  with  mush- 
room essence  (No.  392)  and  the  court-bouillon;  season  properly  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and 
butter,  then  stir  in  the  fish.  Butter  some  shells  (Fig.  438),  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs,  fill  them 
with  the  fish  preparation,  having  the  tops  slightly  dome-form;  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and 
grated  parmesan,  baste  over  with  butter,  then  brown  in  the  oven;  serve  as  soon  as  they  have 
attained  a  good  color. 

(2347).  SHELLS  OP  FEOGS'  LEGS  (Coquilles  de  Cuisses  de  Grenouilles). 

Fry  in  butter  one  pound  of  frogs'  legs  without  letting  them  acquire  a  color;  butter  some  shells 
(Fig.  438),  bread-crumb  the  insides,  and  fill  the  bottoms  with  a  cream  bechamel  (No.  411);  place  ou 
top  cooked  and  minced  mushrooms,  and  over  this  the  boned  frogs'  legs;  cover  with  more  bechamel, 
make  another  bed  of  mushrooms  and  frogs,  and  finish  with  bechamel;  dredge  the  tops  with  bread- 
crumbs fried  in  butter,  set  them  in  the  oven,  and  when  very  hot  and  nicely  browned  serve  at  once 
on  folded  napkins. 

(2348).  SHELLS  OF  LOBSTEE  (Coquilles  de  Homard). 

Kill  two  two-pound  lobsters  by  plunging  them  into  boiling  water  for  two  minutes;  break  off 
the  claws,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  the  bodies;  cover  with  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  and 
allow  the  liquid  to  boil  for  twenty  minutes  while  covered;  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire 
and  leave  the  lobsters  to  partially  cool  off  in  this  stock;  drain  them.  Suppress  the  claw  shells,  and 
cut  the  meats  up  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares;  lay  them  in  a  small  saucepan,  detach 
the  tails  from  the  bodies,  rub  the  creamy  parts  of  the  latter  through  a  sieve,  and  strain  the  lobster 
stock;  put  this  on  the  fire  to  reduce  to  a  half -glaze,  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly  a  quart  of  reduced 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  season  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper;  the  sauce  should  be  reduced  to 
a  proper  degree  and  seasoned.  Cut  the  lobster  tails  lengthwise  in  two,  take  out  the  meats,  and 
cut  them  into  slices;  butter  the  insides  of  the  shells  (Fig.  438),  strew  over  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
dress  the  pieces  of  lobster  crown-shaped  inside  of  these,  alternating  them  with  a  slice  of  truffle; 
lay  them  in  a  sautoir,  one  very  close  to  the  other;  add  the  dice-shaped  pieces  of  lobster  to  the 
sauce  and  pour  this  over  the  contents  of  the  shells.  Besprinkle  with  parmesan,  and  color  the  tops, 
using  a  salamander  (Fig.  123);  then  dress  the  shells  on  folded  napkins  in  a  circle,  garnishing  the 
center  with  green  parsley  sprigs. 

(2349).  SHELLS  OF  MUSSELS  OE  OYSTEES  BAKED  (Ooquilles  de  Monies  ou  d'Huitres  au  Gratin). 
Suppress  the  black  foot  (the  appendage)  of  some  mussels  and  cut  them  up  into  two  or  three 
pieces;  place  these  in  a  highly  seasoned  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  add  to  it  chopped  parsley,  and 
fill  the  shells  (Fig.  438)  already  buttered  with  this  preparation;  dust  over  with  fried  bread-crumbs, 
and  leave  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  before  serving.  Oysters  may  be  prepared  exactly 
the  same  way. 

(2350).  OYSTEES  BAKED  IN  THEIE  SHELLS  (Huitres  Gratings  dans  leurs  Coquilles). 

Open  some  oysters,  detach  them  from  theirshells,  leaving  them  in  the  deep  one;  pourover  a  little 
melted  butter  mixed  with  chopped  parsley,  strew  the  tops  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan, 
and  then  range  these  shells  very  straight  on  a  bed  of  salt  spread  over  a  baking-sheet;  cook  them 
for  seven  or  eight  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  after  taking  them  out  wipe  the  bottoms  of  the 
shells  carefully,  and  lay  them  on  napkins  to  serve. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  709 

(2351).  OYSTEES  BECHAMEL  IN  THEIE  SHELLS  (Huitres  Bechamel  dans  leurs  CoquillesX 

Poach  and  drain  three  dozen  oysters;  fry  colorless  in  butter  three  shallots,  moisten  with  white 
wine  and  the  oyster  liquor,  and  dilute  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409).  Cook  and  despumate: 
thicken  with  egg-yolks,  butter,  and  cream;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  stirr.ng  so  that 
the  sauce  thickens  properly;  then  add  the  oysters  to  it,  and  with  this  fill  the  well-cleaned,  deep 
oyster  shells;  sprinkle  over  fried  bread-crumbs  and  butter,  then  brown  them  in  the  oven. 

(2352).  OYSTEES  EOASTED  AND  ENGLISH  STYLE  IN  THEIE  SHELLS  (Huitres  Eoties  et  a 

1'Anglaise  dans  leurs  Coquilles). 

Lay  some  very  clean  medium-sized  oysters  on  the  broiler,  on  the  flat  side  of  the  shell;  when 
hot,  turn  over  and  lay  the  hollow  side  to  the  fire  until  they  open,  then  take  off  the  flat  shell  and 
serve  the  oysters  in  the  hollow  one,  laying  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  on  each. 

For  English  style  prepare  the  oysters  as  for  roasted  in  shells,  and  instead  of  butter  season 
them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms;  add  a  little  lean  veloute  sauce  (No. 
416)  to  each,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  fried  in  butter,  push  in  the  oven  for  a  moment  and  serve. 

(2353).  OYSTEES  IN   THEIE  SHELLS  WITH  FEIED   BEEAD  (Huitres  dans  leurs  Coquilles 

Naturelles  au  Pain  Frit). 

Heat  some  butter  in  a  small  saucepan;  mix  in  with  it  some  white  bread-crumbs,  stir  continu- 
ously and  let  it  get  a  light  brown  color,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  drain.  Poach  and  drain 
some  oysters;  lay  six  of  their  natural  shells  on  a  baking  sheet  having  an  inside  perforated  sheet  to 
hold  the  oysters  level,  or  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  a  bed  of  salt.  Take  up  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  fried  bread-crumbs  and  pour  it  into  each  shell;  on  top  place  one  or  two  oysters 
and  cover  with  a  little  well  seasoned  veloute  sauce  (No.  416);  bestrew  the  surfaces  with  grated  par- 
mesan  and  on  each  set  a  small  piece  of  butter;  push  the  shells  into  a  moderate  oven  for  five  or 
six  minutes,  then  remove  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  folded  napkin,  with  a  sprig  of  parsley  in  the 
center. 

(2354;.  SHELLS  OF  SCALLOPS,  PAEISIAN  STYLE  (Coquilles  de  Piracies  a  la  Parisiennel 

Open  seven  or  eight  large  scallop  shells;  detach  the  meats  as  well  as  the  white  and  red  milts, 
and  poach  them  in  a  little  white  wine;  drain  and  cut  them  into  dice  pieces;  keep  this  salpicon  on 
one  side.  Fry  in  butter,  chopped  up  onions  and  shallots;  add  raw  mushrooms  cut  in  dice  shape  and 
cook  until  their  moisture  is  evaporated,  then  add  the  prepared  salpicon  five  or  six  minutes  later; 
season  and  thicken  with  a  good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced  when  ready  to  use.  Boil  once 
more  for  a  few  minutes  without  ceasing  to  stir;  it  should  be  quite  consistent,  and  finish  it  away 
from  the  fire  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  and  a  piece  of  fresh  lobster  butter  (No.  580).  Lift 
this  stew  up  with  a  spoon,  and-  with  it  fill  the  shells;  cover  the  preparation  with  bread-crumbs, 
brush  over  with  melted  butter,  and  bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Dress  the  shells  as 
soon  as  they  are  removed  from  the  fire. 

(2355).  SHELLS  OF  SPINAL  MAEEOW  OE  BEAINS  (Coquilles  d'Amourettes  ou  de  Cervelles). 

After  the  spinal  marrow  or  brains  have  been  prepared  and  cooked  as  explained  in  No.  1549, 
drain  and  cut  them  up  in  one-inch  length  slices,  butter  the  interiors  of  either  china  or  silver  shells 
(Fig.  438),  cover  the  insides  with  white  bread  raspings,  fill  the  shells  with  the  pieces  of  spinal  marrow, 
and  pour  over  a  white  Italian  sauce  (No.  484).  Cover  the  tops  with  some  well-seasoned  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409),  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  parmesan  cheese,  add  a  little  butter,  and  brown 
in  a  hot  oven.  Dress  them  crown-shaped  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnishing  with  sprigs  of  green 
parsley. 

(2356).  SHELLS  OF  SQUABS  BAKED  (Coquilles  de  Pigeonneaux  Gratine'es). 
After  the  squabs  have  been  plucked,  singed,  drawn,  well  cleaned  and  boned,  divide  each 
one  into  four  or  six  pieces,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bird,  then  fry  these  colorless 
in  butter  with  minced  fresh  mushrooms;  after  they  are  well  done,  pour  off  the  fat  and 
replace  it  by  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  adding  a  little  finely  cut  up  chives.  Butter  some 
shells  (Fig.  438),  bestrew  the  bottoms  with  a  little  bread-crumbs  and  fill  them  with  the 
squabs;  sprinkle  more  bread-crumbs  over  mixed  with  grated  parmesan  and  brown  with  a  sala- 


710  THE    EPICUREAN. 

mander  or  in  a  hot  oven.  Instead  of  bread-crumbing  the  tops  may  be  covered  with  chicken  que- 
nelle forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  coated  with  butter,  then  breaded  and  browned  in  the  oven,  or  els« 
cover  the  shells  with  a  thin  flat  made  of  puff  paste  fragments  (No.  146),  egg  them  over  twice  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(2357).  SHELLS  01  VEAL  OR  LAMB  SWEETBEEADS,  A  LA  HAEPEE  (Ooquilles  de  Eis  de  Veau 

ou  d'Agneau,  a  la  Harper). 

Braise  unlarded  sweetbreads;  when  cooked  place  them  in  a  dish,  pour  over  the  stock  and  let 
get  cold;  merely  cut  them  up  into  small  three-sixteenths  inch  pieces,  add  to  these  half  as  much 
fresh  mushrooms  and  a  quarter  as  much  unsmoked  but  salted  red  beef  tongue,  all  cut  the  same 
size,  and  mix  the  pieces  into  some  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Butter  some  shells  (Fig.  438),  besprinkle  each  with  bread-crumbs,  fill  with  the  above  preparation 
and  dust  the  tops  with  bread  raspings  and  grated  cheese;  pour  melted  butter  over  and  brown  the 
surface  to  a  fine  color  in  a  hot  oven,  then  dress  and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 


(2358).  SHELLS  OP  TEEEAPIN  WITH  HAZEL-NUTS  (Ooquilles  de  Terrapene  aux  Noisettes). 

Have  a  thick  and  well-seasoned  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  mix  in  with  it  four  ounces  of 
roasted  hazel-nuts  pounded  to  a  pulp  with  a  gill  of  sherry  wine.  Butter  some  shells,  dust  over 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  fill  the  bottoms  with  the  bechamel;  over  this  lay  some  boned  terrapin, 
sprinkle  over  a  little  fine  sherry,  and  pour  more  sauce  on  top;  throw  over  some  bread-crumbs 
fried  in  butter  and  of  a  fine  color,  then  set  the  shells  in  the  oven,  and  serve  when  the  surfaces 
are  nicely  browned. 

(2359).  SOUFFLE  OF  CHICKEN  (SoufflS  de  Poulet), 

Have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  white  roasted  chicken  meat,  pare  it  free  of  all  sinews,  fat  or 
skin,  then  pound  it  to  a  pulp  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409) 
and  two  egg-yolks;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and  rub  the  whole  through 
a  sieve;  put  it  back  into  a  vessel  to  heat,  mixing  in  slowly 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  well-drained  whipped  cream,  then  stir 
in  two  very  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites  and  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  finely 
chopped  truffles.     Butter  a  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182)  lightly,   or 
small  paper  cases  (Fig.  439)  stiffened  in  the  oven;  fill  them  up 
and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  it  takes  about  twelve  or  fifteen 

minutes  to  cook  the  souffle  in  the  pan;  serve  at  once.  Guests  had  better  be  kept  waiting  for  a 
souffle  than  to  have  the  souffle  wait  for  them.  It  must  be  served  immediately  it  leaves  the  oven, 
otherwise  it  loses  its  greatest  merit,  namely  a  beautiful  appearance. 


(2360).  SOUFFLE  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  DELSAET  (Souffle  de  Poulet  a  la  Delsart). 

Poland  half  a  pound  of  the  white  meat  of  a  cooked  chicken  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  two 
spoonfuls  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  two  raw  egg-yolks;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 
Stiffen  some  buttered  or  oiled  paper  cases  in  the  oven,  and  ten  minutes  before  serving  incorporate 
into  the  preparation  two  egg-whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  well-drained, 
whipped  cream;  fill  the  cases,  prepared  as  for  souffle  of  chicken  (No.  2359),  and  place  them  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  then  glaze  them  over  with  a  brush. 

(2361).  SOUFFLE  OF  FAT  LIVEES  WITH  TEUFFLES  (SoufflS  de  Foies-Gras  aux  Truffes). 

Pound  six  ounces  of  fat  livers  with  two  ounces  of  rice  thoroughly  cooked  in  broth  until  per- 
fectly dry;  add  one  whole  egg,  season  and  press  the  preparation  through  a  sieve,  putting  the  puree 
into  a  bowl;  make  it  very  smooth  by  stirring  into  it  four  spoonfuls  of  raw  chicken  quenelle  force- 
meat (No.  89),  and  two  well-beaten-up  egg-whites.  Fill  with  this  some  paper  cases  (Fig.  439) 
previously  buttered  and  stiffened  in  the  oven;  set  them  in  the  oven  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  and 
glaze  them  with  some  light  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  using  a  brush  for  this  purpose. 


MISCELLANEOUS    EXTREES.  711 

(2362).  SOUFFLE'  OP  GAME  A  LA  LUOIE  (Souffle  de  Gibier  a  la  Lucie), 
Pound  four  ounces  of  cooked  game  meat  with  two  ounces  of  rice  boiled  in  broth  until  dry  and 
consistent;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  game  glaze  (No.  398),  two  raw  egg-yolks  and  half  an  ounce 
of  melted  butter,  then  press  all  through  a  sieve,  and  beat  the  preparation  thoroughly.  Ten 
minutes  before  serving  mix  in  half  an  ounce  of  truffles  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares,  and  two 
egg-whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Butter  some  paper  cases  (Fig.  439),  stiffen  them  in  the  oven, 
then  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  souffle  preparation,  set  them  in  the  oven  for  about  ten 
minutes,  and  when  done  glaze  the  tops  with  a  little  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  serve  without  delay. 

(2363).  SOUFFLE  OF  LOBSTER  IN  OASES  (Souffle  de  Homard  en  Oaisses). 
Plunge  a  two-pound  lobster  into  boiling  water  so  as  to  kill  it  quickly,  and  when  cold  split  it 
lengthwise  in  two,  take  out  the  meat  from  the  half  tails,  cut  it  up  and  pound  the  pieces  with  two 
or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  finish  with  some  red  butter  (No.  580), 
adding  also  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  press  this  through  a  sieve,  and  put  the  puree  back  into  the 
mortar,  and  with  the  pestle  pound  it  well  to  make  it  have  a  good,  consistent  body,  allowing  it  to 
absorb  very  slowly  three  gills  of  good  raw  cream;  season  and  finally  add  two  spoonfuls  of  the 
creamy  part  from  the  bodies,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper  and  two  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  With 
this  preparation  fill  either  some  round  buttered  paper  (No.  439),  silver  (No.  438)  or  porcelain 
cases,  wiped  dry  and  buttered;  dredge  over  the  insides  with  bread-crumbs  and  fill  the  cases  and 
lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet;  push  them  into  a  slack  oven  and  let  the  preparation  cook  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes;  it  should  be  cooked  in  a  very  hot  oven,  otherwise  it  will  become  black.  After 
taking  the  souffles  from  the  oven,  glaze  the  surfaces  with  a  little  of  the  same  reduced  veloute 
sauce,  finish  with  red  butter  (No.  580),  and  serve  them  at  once. 

(2364).  SOUFFLE  OF  PARTEIDGE  A  LA  HAGGINS  (Souffle  de  Perdreau  a  la  Haggins), 
Pound  half  a  pound  of  cold  partridge  meat  to  a  pulp,  add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  foies-gras, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and  put  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and 
half  an  ounce  of  butter;  press  this  through  a  fine  sieve  and  place  the  puree  in  a  metal  basin  to  heat 
up  lightly,  incorporating  in  slowly  four  raw  egg-yolks  and  four  very  stiffly  beaten  whites.  When 
the  preparation  is  thoroughly  mixed,  transfer  it  to  some  small  buttered  paper  cases  (Fig.  439), 
stiffened  in  the  oven,  havingthem  three-quarters  of  an  inch  full;  push  them  into  a  slack  oven  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes  before  serving;  glaze  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  serve 
them  instantly  they  leave  the  oven;  they  must  not  be  standing.  Truffles  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch 
squares  may  be  added  to  the  souffles  if  so  desired. 

(2365).  SOUFFLE  OF  PHEASANT  A  LA  ANDREW  (Souffle  de  Faisan  a  la  Andrew). 

Take  the  cooked  meats  from  a  roasted  pheasant,  suppressing  skin,  bones  and  sinews,  pound 
them  to  a  pulp  with  half  as  much  cooked  rice,  and  also  one  ounce  of  very  fresh  fat  liver. 
Make  an  essence  (No.  389)  with  the  parings;  reduce  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  add 
it  to  the  essence  arid  when  very  thick  put  it  with  the  pheasant  pulp  and  strain  the  whole  through 
a  sieve  into  a  tin  basin  and  work  well  while  adding  some  chopped  truffles.  Twenty-five  minutes  be- 
fore serving  heat  the  preparation  in  a  bain-marie  and  incorporate  into  it  seven  raw  egg-yolks  one 
by  one,  and  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  working  it  in  well,  and  then  stir  in  five  egg-whites, 
beaten  to  a  very  stiff  froth.  Butter  a  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182),  fill  it  half  full  with  the  preparation 
and  push  it  into  a  slack  oven;  it  ought  to  take  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  to  cook;  when  done, 
glaze  over  with  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  serve  at  once. 

(2366).  SOUFFLE  OF  WOODCOCKS  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Souffle  de  Becasses  aux  Truffes). 

Suppress  all  the  meats  from  three  roasted  woodcocks  and  pound  it  to  a  pulp;  fry  the  intestines 
and  liver  in  butter,  add  this  to  the  pulp  and  press  through  a  sieve;  dilute  with  a  heaping  spoonful 
of  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  remove  from  the  fire;  stir  the  preparation  until  it  loses  its  greatest 
heat,  then  add  four  egg-yolks,  an  ounce  of  melted  butter,  an  ounce  of  peeled  truffles  cut  in  small 
dice,  and  proper  seasoning,  and  incorporate  in  slowly  four  beaten  egg- whites,  and  if  found  necessary 
an  ounce  of  boiled  rice  may  also  be  added.  Put  this  either  into  a  buttered  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182) 
or  else  in  buttered  paper  cases  (Fig.  439)  stiffened  in  the  oven.  If  for  cases  of  half  a  pint  capacity, 
they  will  require  fifteen  minutes,  but  all  depends  upon  their  size. 


712  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2367).  CHICKEN  LIVEES  SURTOUT  WITH  MUSHROOMS  OR  IN  RICE  BORDER  WITH 
CURRY  (Surtout  de  Foies  de  Volaille  aux  Champignons  ou  en  Bordure  de  Riz  au  Kari). 

Cover  the  middle  of  a  dish  with  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No. 
78)  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Fry  some  chicken  livers  in  butter  with  a  little  blanched  shallot 
and  half  as  much  minced  mushrooms  as  there  are  livers;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dilute 
with  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492).  Dress  these  livers  on  the  forcemeat  surtout  and  sprinkle  chopped 
parsley  over;  serve  very  hot. 

In  a  Rice  Border  with  Curry. — Make  an  Indian  rice  (No.  1872)  border,  dress  on  a  hot  dish 
and  fill  the  center  with  fried  chieken  livers  the  same  as  the  above,  adding  some  curry  powder. 

(2368).  WILD  PIGEON  SURTOUT,  BAKED  (Surtout  de  Pigeons  Ramiers,  an  Gratin). 
After  the  pigeons  have  been  picked,  singed  and  nicely  cleaned,  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two, 
then  trim,  removing  the  legs  and  a  part  of  the  backbone;  season  and  fry  in  butter  till  three- 
quarters  done,  drain  off  the  butter,  cover  with  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  thickening  with  raw  egg- 
yolks  and  a  little  fresh  butter;  leave  the  sautoir  on  the  fire  and  roll  the  pigeons  in  until  well  mingled 
with  the  sauce  Spread  in  the  middle  of  an  oval  baking  dish  a  half-inch  thick  layer  of  godiveau 
(No.  84);  place  the  pigeons  on  top  and  pour  the  sauce  over;  besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and 
grated  cheese,  baste  with  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven  or  with  a  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(2369).  BEEF  TART  OR  PIE  A  LA  PEREZ  (Tarte  de  Boeuf  I  la  Perez). 

These  pies  are  made  in  deep  china  dishes  (Fig.  183),  suitable  to  be  put  in  the  oven.  Butter 
the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  garnish  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  finely  minced  onions;  over  this  put  a  layer 
of  cooked  potatoes  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  on  top  of  the  potatoes  a  thick  layer  of  slices  of  tenderloin 
of  beef;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  and  chopped-up  mushrooms;  set  a  few 
whole  egg-yolks  here  and  there,  then  cover  with  another  layer  of  onions  and  potatoes,  both  minced 
fine.  The  dish  should  now  be  quite  full  of  the  dressing,  and  dome-shaped  on  top.  Roll  out  some 
cuttings  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  from  it  a  band  half  an 
inch  in  width  and  sufficiently  long  to  reach  around  the  edge  of  the  dish;  wet  the  edge,  and  set  the 
band  over  it,  moisten  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  rolled-out  flat  of  the  same  paste  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness;  press  down  the  paste  on  to  the  band,  at  the  bottom  of  the  dome,  and  cut  away 
the  superfluous  paste  all  around  the  dish,  outside  the  edge;  then  with  a  small  knife  cut  grooves 
into  the  band  through  its  thickness.  Make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  dome  in  the  paste,  decorate 
around  this  with  imitation  leaves  made  of  paste,  brush  it  twice  with  beaten  egg,  and  set  the  pie  on 
a  baking  sheet.  Cook  it  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  should  it  threaten  to 
brown  too  soon  cover  with  sheets  of  wet  paper,  and  when  ready  to  serve  pour  into  the  pie  an 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  reduced  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404).  Set  it  on  a  dish  over  a  folded 
napkin. 

(2370).  CHICKEN  TART  OR  PIE  A  LA  MANHATTAN  (Tarte  de  Poulet  a  la  Manhattan). 

Have  two  young  chickens,  singe,  draw  and  cut  them  up  into  six  or  eight  pieces;  lay  them  in  a 
saucepan  containing  small  blanched  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  bay  leaf;  moisten 
with  stock  (No.  194a),  cook  slowly  and  thicken  with  kneaded  butter  (No.  579).  Fill  the  bottom  of 
a  deep  pie  dish  (Fig.  183)  with  peeled  and  pressed  halved  tomatoes,  cover  with  a  layer  of  lightly 
parboiled  fried  bacon  cut  into  three-quarters  of  an  inch  pieces;  season  with  salt,  mignonette  and 
nutmeg,  and  range  the  chicken  on  top  with  potato  balls  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
boiled  in  salted  water,  also  the  small  onions.  Chop  up  four  ounces  of  veal  and  three  ounces  of 
fat  pork;  season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  pepper;  pound  in  the  mortar  and  rub  through  a  sieve;  to 
this  forcemeat  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  an  ounce  of  bread-crumbs 
and  one  whole  egg;  roll  this  on  a  floured  table  into  three-quarter  inch  balls  and  drop  them  here  and 
there  while  putting  the  chicken  in  the  dish.  Moisten  the  edge  of  the  dish,  place  on  a  small  band 
made  of  puff  paste  parings  half  an  inch  wide  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  moisten  this  and  cover 
with  a  flat  of  puff  paste  parings;  pinch  the  edges  together,  cut  away  all  the  surplus  from  around  the 
edge  of  the  dish,  egg  over  twice  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
then  serve. 

(2371),  CHICKEN  TART  OR  PIE  A  LA  RIGOLO  (Tarte  de  Poulet  a  la  Rigolo). 
Cut  up  a  pound  and  a  half  young  chicken  into  four  pieces,  bone  these  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper;  saute  them   colorless  in  butter  with   fresh  mushrooms  and  a  tablespoonful  of  onion, 
each  chopped  up  separately;   when  the  whole   is  fried  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  713 

and  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a);  boil,  skim  and  simmer  until  thoroughly  cooked,  then  add 
some  imitation  cocks'-combs  made  of  beef's  palate  and  cocks'  kidneys,  a  broiled  sliced  sausage 
having  the  skin  removed  and  the  gizzard  cooked  and  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  seasoning  with 
salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley.  Make  a  few  quenelles  with  the  chopped  chicken  livers,  season 
well  and  mix  in  some  bread-crumbs  and  raw  egg-yolk;  roll  this  preparation  into  balls,  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Fill  a  deep  pie  dish  (Fig.  183)  with  the  above  chicken  stew, 
dropping  the  balls  among  it,  also  some  small  hard-boiled  egg-yolk  balls;  finish  the  pie  the  same 
as  pie  a  la  Manhattan  (No.  2370). 

(2372).  CHICKEN  TART  OK  PIE,  AUSTRALIAN  STYLE  (Tarte  de  Poulet  k  1'Australienne). 

Singe,  draw  and  cleanse  well  some  young  chickens,  cut  them  up  into  eight  pieces:  two  wings, 
two  thighs,  two  backs  and  two  breastbones;  fry  these  colorless  in  butter,  moisten  with  stock  (No. 
194a),  season  and  cook  slowly  while  covered;  remoisten  several  times,  then  add  some  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407);  garnish  the  bottom  of  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  193)  with  slices  of  fried  ham,  lay  the  chicken 
on  top,  intercalating  the  pieces  with  small  hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  chopped-up  raw  mushrooms  and 
fine  herbs;  pour  the  sauce  over  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  73).  Make  a  flat 
of  puff  paste  parings,  lay  it  over  the  top,  pinch  the  edges,  egg  the  surface  twice  and  decorate  with 
puff  paste  leaves;  bake  the  pie  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 

(2373).   LAMB  MINION  FILLET  TART   OR  PIE  A  LA   MANNING  (Tarte  de  Pilets  Mignons 

d'Agneau  k  la  Manning). 

Remove  the  fat  and  sinews  from  some  yearling  lamb  fillets,  wrap  them  up  in  thin  slices  of  veal 
suet,  and  roast  till  rare,  then  cut  them  into  escalops  and  range  the  pieces  in  a  buttered  deep  pie  dish 
(Fig.  183),  intercalating  the  thin  slices  of  suet  with  the  slices  of  fillet.  Fry  in  butter  some  cut-up 
shallot,  add  to  it  mushrooms  and  chopped  parsley,  and  moisten  with  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414) 
and  good  gravy  (No.  404) ;  pour  this  over  the  fillets  and  cover  the  edge  of  the  dish  with  a  band  of  puff 
paste,  and  the  top  with  a  flat  of  the  same  rolled  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thickness;  stick  this  to  the 
band  of  paste,  egg  the  surface  and  cook  it  for  one  hour  in  a  moderately  heated  oven.  After  with- 
drawing the  pie  from  the  fire,  make  an  opening  in  the  middle  of  the  upper  crust,  and  fill  the 
inside  with  a  brown  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  finished  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392>. 

(2374).  LOBSTER  TART  OR  PIE  A  LA  A.  HERAULT  (Tarte  de  Homard  a  la  A.  Herault). 

Boil  two  two-pound  lobsters  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38);  drain,  and  let  get  cold;  detach  the 
tails  and  claws;  remove  all  the  creamy  parts  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  pick  the  meat 
from  the  tails  and  claws,  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Partly  fry  two  ounces  of  shallot  cut  into  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  with  two  ounces  of  butter;  when  partially  fried  add  half  a  pound  of 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  and  let  fry  together;  pour  in  a  quart  of  allemande  sauce  (No.  407), 
season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  cayenne,  also  chopped  parsley,  and  mix  well,  adding  the  creamy 
parts  and  the  pieces  of  lobster;  transfer  all  this  into  a  deep  pie  dish  (Fig.  183),  and  set  on  the  edge, 
slightly  dampened,  a  narrow  puff  paste  (No.  146)  band,  and  over  all  a  layer  of  puff  paste  fragments; 
cut  it  away  evenly  all  around  the  outer  edge,  and  decorate  the  top  with  leaves  made  of  paste;  pinch 
the  edges  around  the  pie,  and  egg  over  the  surface  twice,  then  cook  it  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it  is  done. 

(2375).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  TART  OR  PIE,  CANADIAN  (Tarte  de  Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Cana- 

dienne). 

Butter  the  interior  of  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  183);  range  on  the  bottom  some  blanched  salt  pork  and 
slices  of  mutton  from  the  leg;  on  top  lay  a  bed  of  potatoes,  baked  in  the  oven,  peeled  and  cut  in 
slices;  season  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  and  chopped  onions  fried  in 
butter,  and  pour  a  little  good  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  over.  Wet  the  edges  of  the  dish,  lay  on  a 
narrow  band  of  paste,  moisten  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  flat  of  puff  paste  fragments,  decorating 
the  top  with  devices  of  the  same  paste,  egg  it  over  twice,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an 
hour  and  a  quarter. 

(2376).  OYSTER  TART  OR  PIE,  SMITH  STYLE  (Tarte  aux  Huitres  k  la  Smith), 
Poach  in  their  own  liquor  three  dozen  medium  oysters,  drain  and  remove  the  muscles  or  liga- 
ments.   Fry  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares, 
two  ounces  of  onions  cut  the  same  size,  and  half  a  pound  of  peeled  and  seedless  tomatoes  cut  into 


714  THE    EPICUREAN. 

five-eighths  of  an  inch  pieces;  add  the  oyster  liquor,  reduce  the  whole  with  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce 
(No.  415),  and  when  well  done  and  seasoned  nicely,  add  the  oysters.  Place  all  of  this  into  a  deep 
pie  dish  (Fig.  183),  and  lay  on  the  edge,  after  slightly  wetting  it,  a  narrow  band  of  puff  paste  (No. 
146)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  half  an  inch  wide;  moisten  the  top  of  this  band,  and  cover 
the  whole  with  a  layer  of  paste  made  of  fragments  of  puff  paste;  cut  away  the  extending  edges,  and 
decorate  the  top  with  bits  of  the  paste  rolled  out  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  pinch  the 
edges  round  the  border,  and  egg  over  the  surface  twice,  then  cook  the  pie  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin.  Either  salt  or  smoked  bacon  can  be  used. 

(2377).  PIGEON  TAET  A  LA  BEITANNIA  (Tarte  de  Pigeons  a  la  Britannia). 
Singe  three  clean  pigeons;  divide  each  one  in  two  parts,  beat,  remove  the  surplus  bones  with- 
out boning  them,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne  pepper.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pie 
dish  (Fig.  183)  with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  bestrew  with  a  spoonful  of  onion,  and  one  of  mushrooms 
both  chopped  separately,  range  the  halved  pigeons  in  the  dish  intermingled  with  more  slices  of  bacon, 
and  a  few  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  two;  bring  it  to  a  dome.  Pour  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  clear  gravy 
(No.  404)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  cover  with  a  layer  of  half  paste  the  same  as  for  the  beef 
pie  No.  2369.  Decorate  the  summit,  egg  over,  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  slack  oven, 
covering  with  paper  should  it  threaten  to  burn. 

(2378).  LOIN  OF  POKE  TAET  OE  PIE-ENGLISH  STYLE  (Tarte  de  Longe  de  Pore  a  1'Anglaise). 
Have  a  loin  of  fresh  pork,  bone,  remove  the  fat  and  cut  from  it  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick;  beat  to  flatten  slightly,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Butter  the  inside  of  a  pie 
dish  (Fig.  183)  and  lay  over  some  thin  slices  of  raw  salted  and  smoked  ham,  seasoning  with 
prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  chopped  shallot  and  onions;  on  this  place  a  bed  of  raw  sliced 
potatoes,  and  the  pieces  of  meat  above,  dropping  sage  leaves  here  and  there;  pour  a  little  good 
cold  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  moisten  the  edge  with  a  brush  dipped  in  water, 
lay  on  it  a  band  of  paste  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  half  an  inch  wide;  wet  the  top  of  this 
slightly  and  cover  the  pie  with  a  layer  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  or  puff  paste  parings,  having 
it  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  adhere  this  on  the  band,  cut  away  all  the  surplus  paste  from 
the  outside  and  make  deep  marks  all  around  with  the  back  of  a  knife;  egg  the  surface  twice 
and  cut  a  hole  in  the  center.  Cook  this  pie  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  more  or 
less,  according  to  its  size;  this  time  being  allowed  for  one  containing  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
meat  and  potatoes. 

(2379).  EABBIT  TAET  OE  PIE  WITH  TINE  HEEBS  (Tarte  de  Lapin  aux  Fines  Herbes). 
Suppress  the  skin  from  two  good  rabbits;  draw  and  wipe  well  the  meats;  separate  them  at  the 
joints,  bone  the  shoulders  and  the  legs,  decrease  the  size  of  the  backbones  without  boning  then 
entirely  and  split  each  one  in  two.  With  the  necks,  bones  and  a  few  game  parings,  make  a  small 
fumet  (No.  397)  with  white  wine.  Cut  half  a  pound  of  bacon  into  small  slices;  put  them  in  a 
sautoir  with  butter,  and  heat  for  five  minutes  while  stirring,  then  remove  with  a  skimmer, 
leaving  the  fat  in  the  pan,  and  into  this  throw  two  spoonfuls  each  of  onions,  shallots  and  mush- 
rooms; fry  together  for  two  minutes,  then  add  the  pieces  of  rabbit;  season  highly,  being  sparing 
of  the  salt,  and  besprinkle  with  pulverized  wild  thyme.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  183) 
intended  for  the  oven  with  a  layer  of  the  bacon;  on  this  place  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  intermingling 
them  with  the  fine  herbs  and  bacon;  pour  into  the  bottom  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  prepared  fumet 
reduced  to  nearly  half-glaze.  Wet  the  edges  of  the  dish,  cover  it  with  a  thin  band  of  puff  paste 
fragments  (No.  146)  or  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  wet  this  band  also.  Cover  the  whole  with  a 
flat  of  puff  paste  parings,  cut  off  the  surplus  around  the  edge  of  the  dish,  egg  over  twice  and  cook 
for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  slow  oven;  make  a  hole  on  the  top  and  pour  in  the  remainder  of  the 
fumet. 

(2380).  VEAL  TAET  OE  PIE  A  LA  DICKINSON  (Tarte  de  Veau  a  la  Dickinson). 
Suppress  all  the  fat  and  sinews  from  a  kernel  of  veal;  cut  it  up  into  thin  slices,  having  them  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Butter  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  183)  that  can  go  into  the  oven;  set  slices  of  bacon 
and  ham  on  the  bottom,  and  over  these  the  sliced  veal,  alternated;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  pars- 
ley; add  finely  cut-up  potatoes,  chopped  shallots  or  onions,  then  continue  to  fill  with  the  same  until 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  715 

the  dish  is  quite  full  and  well  rounded  on  top;  pour  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  into  the  bottom, 
lay  a  small  band  made  of  puff  paste  parings  on  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  a  flat  of  the  same  paste  on 
top;  cut  away  the  surplus  paste  around  the  dish,  decorate  and  egg  the  pie  over  twice;  bake  it  in 
a  medium  oven  for  one  hour  and  a  half  for  a  dish  containing  a  quart. 

(2381X  TIMBALE  A  LA  NANTAISE  (Timbale  a  la  Nantaise). 

Line  a  tiinbale  mold  the  same  as  for  No.  2383,  cook  it  lightly,  and  when  removed  from  the 
oven,  unmold,  open  on  the  cut  end,  empty  it  of  its  contents,  and  keep  warm.  Prepare  a  garnish- 
ing composed  of  a  few  dozen  poached  oysters  or  else  crawfish  tails  or  red  shrimps  (either  of  them 
shelled),  or  slices  of  cooked  lobster-tail  meat,  four  ounces  of  peeled  truffles  previously  cooked  in 


FIG.  441. 

Madeira  wine,  and  a  few  dozen  small  salmon  quenelles  rolled  on  a  floured  table  and  poached. 
Range  these  garnishings  in  a  sautoir  and  keep  them  well  covered.  Put  on  to  reduce  a  few  gills  of 
good  bechamel  (No.  409),  stir  slowly  into  it  the  oyster  broth,  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  court- 
bouillon  (No.  38)  reduced  to  a  half-glaze;  finish  the  sauce  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper 
and  lobster  butter  (No.  580)  and  a  handful  of  grated  parmesan.  Cover  the  garnishings  with  this 
sauce,  set  them  in  layers  in  the  timbale,  alternating  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce;  close  the 
top  with  the  removed  lid  and«erve  at  once. 

(2382).  TIMBALE  OF  CHICKEN,  PAKISTAN  STYLE-LARGE  (Grosse  Timbale  de  Poulet  a  la 

Parisienne). 

Butter  a  cold  oval  timbale  mold,  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles  and  cover  this  decora- 
tion with  a  layer  of  consistent  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat,  having 
it  half  an  inch  deep  at  the  base  and  diminishing  the  thickness  toward 
the  top.  Fill  the  inside  of  the  timbale  with  a  well-pared  boneless 
chicken  fricassee  (No.  1861),  into  which  mix  a  Toulouse  garnishing 
(No.  766),  having  both  thoroughly  cold.  Cover  the  top  with  a  layer 
of  forcemeat  and  place  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling 
water,  withdraw  it  to  one  side  at  the  first  boil  and  finish  cooking  the  riG 

timbale  in  a  slack  oven.     Let  it  rest  for  fifteen  minutes  after 

removal,  then  unmold  and  pour  around  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  essence  of  truffles 
(No.  396);  serve  more  of  this  sauce  separately. 

(2383).  TIMBALE  FOR  EPICURES  (Timbale  des  Epicures). 

Butter  a  large  timbale  mold  (Fig.  441)  slightly  wider  on  top  than  on  the  bottom;  cover  the  bottom 
with  a  piece  of  paper  and  line  with  rather  thick  timbale  paste  (No.  150).  With  the  tip  of  a  small  knife 
cut  all  round  the  bottom  paste  (Fig.  441),  following  the  outlines  of  the  sides  in  a  way  not  to  decrease  the 
thickness;  leave  the  cut  piece  of  paste  in  its  same  position,  then  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  but- 
tered paper  and  fill  the  timbale  with  common  flour;  close  the  opening  firstly  with  a  round  of  paper, 
then  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste;  stand  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  in  a  slack  oven.  After  removing  it  from  the  fire,  allow  to  cool  for  a  few  moments,  then  invert 
it  on  a  baking  sheet  to  open  on  the  cut  side,  and  empty  out  the  contents;  take  off  the  paper  and  keep 
the  timbale  for  five  minutes  at  the  oven  door,  glaze  it  with  a  brush  and  fasten  it  on  to  the  center  of  a 
dish,  then  with  a  cornet  filled  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75)  form  a  garland  all  around  the 
upper  edge;  leave  the  timbale  in  a  warm  heater  to  poach  this  border  slightly.  Place  in  a  saucepan 
a  garnishing  composed  of  fine  cocks'-combs,  round  truffles  and  very  white  and  uniform  mushroom 
heads;  baste  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  chicken  stock  (No.  188),  cover  the  saucepan  and 


716 


TFLE;  EPICUREAN. 


keep  it  in  a  bain-marie.  In  another  saucepan  place  a  garnishing  of  cooked  beef  fries  cut  in  inch 
and  a  half  length  slices;  mix  with  these  an  equal  quantity  of  large  Italian  macaroni,  cooked  till  tender 
and  cut  into  the  same  lengths  as  the  fries;  add  also  the  same  quantity  of  large  fillets  of  cooked 
tongue  cut  likewise,  and  mingle  these  ingredients  with  some  good  bechamel  (No.  409)  reduced  with 


FIG.  443. 

the  mushroom  broth,  raw  cream  and  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Heat  the  stew  on  a  slow  fire,  stir- 
ring it  unceasingly  and  not  allowing  the  sauce  to  boil  and  incorporate  into  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter 
and  a  handful  of  parmesan.  Now  take  the  timbale  from  the  heater,  fill  it  up  with  the  stew  and  on 
top  dress  the  garnishing  of  the  truffles,  combs  and  mushrooms  laid  in  the  shape  of  a  dome;  cover 
these  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  light  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  and  serve  the  timbale  at 
once. 

(2384).  TIMBALE  01  FILLETS  OF  SOLES  A  LA  GAULOISE  (Timbale  de  Filets  de  Soles  &  la 

Gauloise). 

Fill  the  timbale  paste,  prepare  and  cook  a  case  as  explained  in  No.  2383.  After  the  case  is 
taken  from  the  oven  open  it  on  the  cut  to  empty.  Glaze  the  inside  with  a  brush,  and  dress  it  on 
a  dish;  keep  it  warm  in  a  heater.  Poach  the  fillets  of  sole  in  butter,  salt  and  lemon  juice;  set 
them  under  a  light  weight,  pare  and  keep  them  warm  likewise.  Add  to  a  well-reduced  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407)  some  minced  truffles  and  mushroom  heads;  fill  the  timbale  with  a  layer  of  sole  on 
top  of  the  truffles  and  mushrooms,  then  more  sole,  and  continue  the  operation  until  the  timbale 
is  entirely  filled.  Garnish  around  with  Milanese  macaroni  croquettes,  and  the  top  with  trussed 
crawfish. 

Milanese  Macaroni  Croquettes  are  to  be  made  with  cooked  macaroni  cut  into  half-inch  lengths 
and  mingled  with  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  adding  a  salpicon  of  tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms; 
when  cold  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  hot  frying  fat. 

(2385).  TIMBALE  OF  LOBSTER  A  LA  D'AUMALE  (Timbale  de  Homard  k  la  d'Aumale). 

After  a  lobster  has  been  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  drain,  and  lay  it  aside  to  get  cold; 
then  pick  out  the  meat  and  cut  it  up  into  escalops,  not  having  them  too  thick — about  a  pound  alto- 
gether; add  to  these  slices  two  medium-sized  blanched  oysters  after  suppressing  the  hard  parts;  add 
also  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  and  four  ounces  of  truffles.  Butter  with  unmelted  butter  a  half 
spherical,  plain,  round  or  oval  mold;  decorate  it  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  and  keep  the  decoration 
in  place  with  a  thick  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  mixed  with  lobster  coral;  fill  up  the  inside  with 
the  above  preparation,  and  finish  with  more  forcemeat.  Poach  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  three-quarters 
to  one  hour;  unmold,  and  serve  separately  a  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  with  lobster  butter  (No. 
680)  added  to  it. 

(2386).  TIMBALE  OF  PULLET  (Timbale  de  Poularde). 

Cut  each  of  two  pullets  into  five  pieces,  and  five  ounces  of  bacon  into  thin  squares; 
warm  these  in  a  saucepan  with  some  butter,  then  add  the  pieces  of  chicken,  and  fry  them  while 
tossing;  season,  put  in  the  livers  and  three  or  four  peeled  and  sliced  truffles.  When  the 
chickens  are  partly  done  moisten  them  with  a  little  white  wine  and  reduce  quickly;  then  pour  the 
stew  into  a  tureen.  Butter  a  timbale  mold,  bestrew  chopped  noodles  over  the  sides  and  bottom, 
and  then  line  it  with  fine  paste  (No.  142);  cover  the  sides  and  bottoms  with  veal  chopped  force- 
meat (No.  65),  finished  with  a  few  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Pour  the  stew  into  the  timbale, 
leaving  as  little  empty  space  as  possible,  and  covering  over  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste;  fasten 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  717 

this  to  the  edge,  and  egg  over  the  whole,  then  push  the  timbale  into  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for 
one  hour.  After  removing  it  cut  a  small  opening  in  the  middle  of  the  crust,  and  pour  in  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  close  the  opening  and  invert  the  timbale  on  a  dish  to 
serve. 

(2387).  TIMBALE  OP  SQUAES  A  LA  BEROHOUX  (Timbale  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Berchoux). 

Draw,  singe  and  clean  six  squabs,  then  cut  them  each  in  four.  Line  a  two-quart  buttered  tim- 
bale mold  with  foundation  or  short  paste  (No.  135);  coat  it  over  with  a  layer  of  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89)  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Melt  four  ounces  of  grated  fat  pork  in 
a  saucepan  with  as  much  lean  bacon  cut  into  quarter-inch  squares;  add  the  squabs,  and  fry  the 
whole  together  over  a  bright  fire.  When  the  squabs  are  nicely  browned,  drain  off  the  fat  and 
moisten  with  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  then  reduce,  add  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414), 
and  season  to  taste,  adding  half  a  pound  of  small  mushroom  heads,  and  four  ounces  of  minced 
truffles,  then  let  the  whole  get  cold.  Fill  up  the  timbale  with  separate  layers  of  squabs,  mush- 
rooms, bacon,  and  sauce,  and  cover  over  with  more  quenelle  forcemeat,  and  besides  this  a  lid  of  puff 
oaste  (No.  146);  cook  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  the  timbale  is  done,  remove  it  from  the  fire, 
dress,  take  off  the  lid,  and  pour  in  some  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  Madeira;  serve  the 
timbale  very  hot.  Instead  of  cutting  the  squabs  in  two,  they  may  be  boned  and  stuffed  with 
delicate  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat,  then  laid  in  oval-shaped  rings  and  braised,  finishing  them  as 
for  the  others. 

(2388),  TIMBALE  OF  SWEETBREADS,  MODEM-LARGE  (Grosse  Timbale  de  Ris  de  Veau  a  la 

Moderne). 

Butter  a  large  oval  mold  as  for  timbale  a  la  Parisian  (No.  2382),  allowing  one  quart  for 
eight  persons;  decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  and  hold  these  up 
with  a  thick  layer  ot  solid  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89.)  Cut  up  in  half-inch 
squares  one  pound  of  braised,  unlarded  sweetbreads  that  have  been  left  to  cool  in  their 
stock,  also  as  much  cooked  lean  ham.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sautoir  with  two 
ounces  of  onion  cut  in  small  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  when  done  without  browning  add 
four  ounces  of  minced  fresh  mushrooms;  when  these  have  evaporated  their  moisture  add  the  sweet- 
breads and  ham;  season  and  moisten  with  two  gills  of  Madeira;  let  the  latter  reduce  entirely,  then  pour 
in  some  brown  sauce  (No.  414)  and  the  sweetbread  braise  stock;  reduce  once  more  and  transfer  the 
whole  to  a  dish  to  get  cold.  Fill  the  timbale  mold  with  this  preparation;  spread  a  half  inch  thick 
layer  of  forcemeat  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  having  it  the  same  size  as  the  timbale,  turn 
over  the  sheet  to  fasten  the  forcemeat  to  the  forcemeat  in  the  timbale;  attach  it  well  to  the  top; 
poach  the  timbale  by  placing  it  in  boiling  water  that  reaches  halfway  up;  boil  this  and  push  the 
timbale  into  a  slack  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  until  the  forcemeat 
be  perfectly  firm;  remove  the  paper,  unmold  on  a  dish  and  pour  around  a  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492), 
serving  more  of  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2389).  TIMBALE  OF  YOUNG  HARE  (Timbale  de  Levraut), 

Bone  a  young  hare,  cut  it  up  into  sixteen  pieces,  and  put  these  into  a  saucepan  with  melted 
fat  pork,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  and  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  half-inch  squares 
and  blanched.  Fry  these  meats  over  a  good  fire,  season  with  salt  and  spices,  and  when  well  stiff- 
ened throw  in  a  pound  of  medium-sized  mushrooms  turned  and  channeled  (No.  118),  also  a  glass- 
ful of  white  wine;  cover  the  saucepan,  reduce  the  liquid  quickly  and  leave  till  cold.  Butter  a  plain 
timbale  mold  six  inches  in  diameter  by  six  inches  high,  strew  the  bottom  with  a  handful  of 
freshly  and  finely  cut-up  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  or  else  pretty  pieces  cut  out  with  a  column 
tube;  apply  them  all  over  the  inside  surface,  wetting  lightly  with  water,  then  line  the  mold 
with  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  having  it  rolled  out  very  thin;  now  cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  a  thin  layer  of  chopped  game  forcemeat  (No.  67).  Fill  the  timbale  with  the  hare  and 
some  game  quenelles  (No.  733)  intermingled;  cover  with  a  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat  and  over 
this  a  round  flat  of  the  paste,  attaching  it  to  the  lower  one  at  the  edge.  Place  the  timbale  on  a 
small  baking  sheet  and  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter;  after 
removing  from  the  oven,  invert  it  on  a  dish,  make  a  hole  in  the  center  and  pour  into  the  inside  a 
brown  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  Madeira  and  game  fumet  (No.  397)  made  with  the  hare  parings 
and  the  mushroom  peelings,  then  strained  through  a  tammy. 


718  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2390).  TOURTE  OF  PALATE  OP  BEEF,  PAEISIAN  STYLE  (Tourte  de  Palais  de  Boeuf  a  la 

Parisienne). 

Prepare,  cook  and  press  the  palates  of  beef  as  described  in  a  la  bechamel  (No.  1326),  then  cut 
them  in  one  and  a  half  inch  squares.  Heat  half  a  pound  of  lard,  brown  in  it  two  ounces 
of  finely  chopped  onions,  and  half  a  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms;  add  the  palates,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  chives  and  parsley;  drain  off  the  grease,  and  add  to  it  half  its  quantity 
of  godiveau  forcemeat  (No.  82)  quenelles  and  increase  the  garnishing  by  adding  an  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  finished  with  Madeira.  Prepare  an  empty  tart,  ancient  style  (No.  174);  when  the  tart  is 
done,  raise  up  the  cover,  remove  the  paper  pad,  and  fill  the  interior  with  the  above  garnishing,  and 
replace  the  cover  before  serving. 

(2391).  TOUKTE  OF  CHICKEN  (Tourte  de  Poulet). 

Divide  two  small  chickens  into  eight  pieces  each,  suppressing  all  the  bones.  Melt  in  a 
sautoir  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  chopped  fat  pork;  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon 
cut  in  large  dice  and  fry  these  for  four  or  five  minutes;  lift  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  leaving  the 
fat  in  the  sautoir,  and  into  it  put  three  spoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot  and  onion;  fry  colorless,  then 
add  double  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  as  soon  as  these  have  evaporated  their 
humidity,  put  in  the  chickens,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  aromatic  herbs;  fry  together  and  at  the  end 
of  ten  minutes  put  back  the  bacon,  and  when  the  meats  are  half  cooked  moisten  with  half  a  glass- 
ful of  dry  white  wine;  let  reduce  quickly  to  a  glaze  and  pour  over  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze 
sauce,  then  take  out  the  meats  and  let  get  cold.  Prepare  about  a  pound  of  chicken  godiveau  (No. 
82).  Lay  on  a  pie  dish  (Fig.  183)  a  rather  thick  layer  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  having  it  eight 
inches  in  diameter;  in  the  center  spread  a  layer  of  the  chicken  godiveau  six  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter;  on  this  place  the  chickens,  dressing  them  in  a  dome,  and  adding  a  few  cooked  mush- 
rooms; then  cover  the  entire  dome  with  the  remainder  of  the  godiveau;  wet  the  lower  flat  at  the 
base  of  the  dome  and  cover  over  with  a  large  layer  of  puff  paste  (No.  146),  press  it  on  to  the  lower 
one  and  fasten  the  two  together,  decreasing  the  thickness,  then  cut  very  round.  Wet  the 
top  layer  and  lay  on  the  free  surface  around  the  dome  a  band  of  puff  paste  made  in  six  turns, 
having  it  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  fasten  the  two  ends,  cut  bias  together,  and  wet  this  over; 
decorate  the  dome  with  fanciful  cuts  of  paste,  egg  it  over,  as  well  as  the  bands  of  puff  paste,  and 
cook  the  tart  in  a  moderate  oven  for  forty  minutes.  After  taking  it  out  slip  it  on  to  a  large  dish 
and  cut  off  one-third  of  the  top  of  the  dome  to  open  it,  and  pour  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze 
sauce  (No.  413),  having  more  in  a  sauce-boat,  and  adding  to  it  a  few  cooked  mushrooms.  Pigeon 
or  rabbit  tarts  can  be  prepared  the  same. 

(2392).  TOURTE  OF  FILLETS  OF  SOLES  A  LA  FINANCIERS  (Tourte  de  Filets  de  Soles  a  la 

Financiere). 

Make  a  band  tart  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  173;  remove  and  detach  it  from  the  baking 
sheet,  dress  on  a  dish  and  keep  warm.  Cook  five  or  six  well-pared  sole  fillets  in  butter,  having  them 
seasoned  and  cut  into  escalops,  laying  them  in  a  sautoir  with  sliced  truffles,  a  few  dozen  poached 


FIG.  444. 


oysters  and  small  fish  quenelles  (No.  90)  molded  with  a  small  coffeespoon  (No.  155),  then  poached; 
add  some  good  lean  veloute  sauce  (No.  416),  reduced  with  the  broth  from  the  truffles,  mushrooms 
and  oysters.  Dress  this  garnishing  in  a  dome  in  the  empty  tart,  ornament  the  surface  with  two  sole 
fillets  decorated  with  truffles,  two  large  cooked  crawfish,  their  tails  shelled,  and  four  large  quenelles, 
each  one  having  a  truffle  lozenge  placed  on  the  center.  Between  the  quenelles  and  the  fillets  lay  a 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  719 

mushroom  head,  turned  (No.  118)  and  cooked  very  white;  on  top  place  a  small  round  scooped-out 
quenelle,  and  on  this  a  round  peeled  truffle;  glaze  this  truffle  and  the  fillets  of  sole,  cover  the 
mushrooms  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  and  serve  more  of  it  as  a  separate  sauce. 

(2393).  TURBAN  OF  FILLETS  OF  FLUKES  OK  SMELTS-STREAKED  (Turban  de  Filets  de 

/ 

Oarrelets  ou  d'Eperlans,  Bigarre~s). 

Raise  the  four  fillets,  peel  off  the  skin,  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two,  then  into  slices,  having 
them  six  inches  long  by  one  wide;  make  bias  incisions  on  half  the  thickness,  and  set  into  everyone 
a  thin  slice  of  truffle.  With  a  fish  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90)  make  a  crown-shaped  border 
rounded  on  the  top,  using  mold  (Fig.  139);  lay  on  it  the  streaked  slices  slanting  in  such  a  way  as  to 
cover  the  surfaces  so  that  the  truffles  are  seen  on  top;  lay  over  strips  of  buttered  paper,  and  cook 
this  turban  in  a  slack  oven;  drain  off  the  butter  and  fill  up  the  empty  space  with  mushrooms, 
truffles  and  oyster  kernels,  cover  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  reduced  with  cream  and  well 
buttered,  and  lay  a  garnishing  of  fried  milts  around  the  turban. 

(2394).  TURBAN  OF  LOBSTERS  GARNISHED  WITH  SHELLS  (Turban  de  Homards  Garni  de 

Coquilles). 

Kill  the  lobsters  by  plunging  them  into  boiling  water  for  one  minute;  suppress  the  tail  shells 
and  cut  up  the  tail  meat  into  transversal  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  dress  them  crown- 
shaped  on  a  ring  made  of  raw  pike  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  90),  alternating  each  slice  with  one  of 
truffles  and  mushrooms;  cover  this  crown  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  416)  well-reduced  with  court 
bouillon  and  wine  (No.  419);  dredge  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  cheese,  and 
besprinkle  with  butter;  brown  it  in  the  oven  and  then  garnish  the  center  of  the  turban  with  a  gar- 
nishing of  mushrooms;  pour  over  these  a  lobster  sauce  (No.  488)  with  some  cayenne  pepper 
added,  and  garnish  around  the  turban  with  small  shells  filled  with  lobster  and  cream  bechamel. 
Prepare  as  follows:  Put  into  a  bowl  half  a  pound  of  lobster  meat  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  and 
the  third  of  its  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms  cut  exactly  the  same.  Reduce  a  pint  of  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409)  with  some  of  the  mushroom  broth  and  cream;  mix  it  in  with  the  salpicon,  season 
with  nutmeg,  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  use  this  preparation  to  fill  some  scallop  or  silver  shells 
(Fig.  438)  previously  buttered  and  bread-crumbed;  when  they  are  all  full,  strew  over  more  bread- 
crumbs and  parmesan,  besprinkle  with  butter,  and  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven,  or  else  with  a  red- 
hot  shovel,  or  under  a  gas  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(2395).  VOL-AU-VENT  A  LA  DIEPPOISE  (Vol-au-vent  a  la  Dieppoise). 

For  this  there  must  be  prepared  a  vol-au-vent  crust,  as  explained  in  No.  180;  remove  the 
cover  to  empty  it  out  thoroughly,  then  keep  it  warm,  or  if  it  has  been  made  some  time  beforehand 
just  heat  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Reduce  some  lean  veloute  sauce  (No.  416), 
then  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks,  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice,  strain  through  a  tammy  and  keep  it 
in  a  bain-marie;  add  to  it  some  cooked  mussels,  some  fish  (sole)  quenelles,  mushrooms  and  shrimps. 
When  all  is  very  hot,  fill  the  crust,  cover  with  the  lid  and  serve. 

(2396),  VOL-AU-VENT  A  LA  FINANOIERE  (Vol-au-vent  a  la  Financiers). 
Prepare  a  vol-au-vent  crust  as  explained  in  No.  180;   when  cooked  lift  off  the  cover,  empty 


FIG.  445. 


out  the  interior  and  keep  it  warm.     Prepare  a  garnishing  of    whole    peeled   truffles,   turned 
and  channeled    mushroom    heads    (No.    118),  cocks'-combs  and  quenelles,  as  many  of  one  as  of 


720  THE    EPICUREAN. 

the  other,  and  enough  to  fill  the  crust;  put  this  garnishing  into  a  sautoir  and  mingle  in  a  financiere 
sauce  (No.  464).  When  very  hot  pour  it  into  the  crust,  dressing  the  cocks'-combs  in  a  circle,  and 
inside  of  this  the  truffles  and  mushrooms,  having  a  fine  braised,  larded  and  well-glazed  sweetbread 
on  top.  The  financiere  garnishing  can  be  replaced  by  a  Toulouse  (No.  766)  or  Aquitaine  (No.  640) 
garnishing. 

(2397).  VOL-AU-VENT  A  LA  NESLE  (Vol-au-vent  &  la  Nesle), 

Take  some  well-buttered  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392); 
add  to  it  some  chicken  quenelles  made  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  molded  with  a 
coffeespoon  (No.  155),  small  turned  and  cooked  mushrooms  and  cooked  lean  ham  cut  in  three- 
eighth  inch  squares.  When  both  the  garnishing  and  crust  are  very  hot  fill  up  in  layers  alternated 
with  slices  of  calf's  brains  cooked  when  ready  to  use  and  then  well  drained.  Decorate  the  top  with 
fine  trussed  crawfish,  and  serve. 

(2398).  VOL-AU-VENT,  ANCIENT  STYLE-LAEGE  (Gros  Vol-au-vent  a  I'Ancienne). 

Reduce  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  with  sweetbread  stock,  and  thicken  it  with  egg-yolks;  run 
it  through  a  tammy,  and  mix  in  with  this  sauce  some  godiveau  quenelles  (No.  155,  Fig.  81), 
medium  sized  mushroom  heads,  cocks'-combs,  slices  of  liver,  and  minced  truffles.  Fill  the  crust, 
as  explained  in  a  la  financiere  (No.  2396),  with  this  very  hot  garnishing,  and  replace  the  cover 
by  small,  pretty  kernels  of  sweetbreads  and  trussed  crawfish. 

(2399).  OHIOKEN  VOL-AU-VENT  WITH  MUSHEOOMS-LAEGE  (Gros  Vol-au-vent  de  Volaille  aux 

Champignons). 

Prepare  the  crust  as  for  the  financiere  (No.  2396),  reduce  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415) 
with  mushroom  stock,  and  when  done  thicken  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  cream, 
then  incorporate  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  pass  it  through  a  tammy,  and  add  to  this  sauce 
some  braised  white  of  chicken  free  of  skin,  sinews,  or  fat,  and  half  the  same  quantity  of  mushroom 
heads  or  cut-up  mushrooms.  When  the  crust  is  very  hot,  also  the  garnishing,  fill  and  lay  the 
cover  over,  then  serve.  The  chicken  may  be  replaced  by  braised  sweetbreads  or  spring  lamb, 
either  of  which  should  be  well  pared  and  cut  in  slices. 

(2400)  SALT  CODFISH  VOL-AU-VENT-LAEGE  (Gros  Vol-au-vent  de  Morue  Salfe). 

Cut  some  salted  codfish  in  two-inch  pieces,  pare  them  evenly,  and  lay  in  cold  water  to  soak  for 
twenty-four  hours,  changing  the  water  every  six  hours;  the  last  change  must  be  slightly  tepid. 
When  ready  to  cook  put  it  into  a  saucepan  containing  cold  water;  bring  this  slowly  to  a  boiling 
point  and  leave  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  without  allowing  it  to  actually  boil;  drain,  take  off 
all  the  skin  and  bones,  and  then  shred  it  in  flakes;  put  these  in  a  saucepan  with  cream  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  411).  With  this  prepared  fish  fill  a  vol-au-vent  crust  the  same  as  described  in  No. 
180,  dress  it  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

It  can  also  be  prepared  with  eggs,  adding  to  the  fish  hard-boiled  eggs  and  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  chives. 

(2401).  VOL-AU-VENT  OP  FEOGS  AND  SOUBISE  EGGS  (Vol-au-vent  de  Grenouilles  et  d'ffiufs 

Soubise). 

Prepare  the  vol-au-vent  crust  as  in  No.  180.  Fry  colorless  in  a  pan  with  butter  some 
frogs'  legs;  drain,  bone,  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan.  Boil  some  eggs  for  eight  minutes 
to  have  them  very  hard;  shell  and  cut  lengthwise  in  two,  then  across  in  two;  add  them  to 
the  frogs'  legs,  and  also  some  well-buttered  soubise  sauce  (No.  543);  butter  it  well,  heat  all  very 
slowly,  and  then  fill  the  vol-au-vent  crust,  placing  the  removed  cover  on  top. 

(2402).  VOL-AU-VENT  OF  OYSTEES  (Vol-au-vent  d'Hultres). 

Prepare  either  one  large  or  sufficient  small  vol-au-vent  (No.  180).  Poach  a  few  dozen  large 
oysters  in  white  wine  and  their  own  liquor,  and  when  well  drained,  pare  and  lay  them  in  a  small 
saucepan.  On  the  other  hand,  put  on  to  reduce  two  gills  of  good  be'chamel  sauce  (No.  409),  in- 
corporating into  it  slowly  apart  of  the  oyster  juice,  and  when  the  sauce  is  considerably  reduced  and 
thick,  finish  it  with  a  little  cream;  pour  this  over  the  oysters,  and  heat  them  in  a  bain-marie 
(Fig.  122)  without  allowing  them  to  boil;  at  the  last  moment  fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  this  prepared 
garnishing,  and  serve  very  hot. 


MISCELLANEOUS    ENTREES.  721 

(2403).  VOL-AU-VENT  A  LA  DELMONTES-SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  &  la  Delmontes). 

These  small  vol-au-vent  are  prepared  the  same  as  explained  in  No.  180.  Prepare  also  a  brown 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  Marsala  wine,  into  which  mix  equal  parts  of  cooked  unsmoked  beef 
tongue,  cut  in  balls  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  foies-gras  quenelles 
made  with  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78)  of  the  same  size,  or  else  replace  these  by  marrow  quenelles 
(No.  353)  of  the  same  diameter,  small  mushrooms  and  the  cutaneous  part  of  a  calf's  head  cue 
the  same  size;  properly  heat  the  whole,  and  fill  the  small  vol-au-vent  crusts  with  it;  on  each  one 
place  a  round  quarter-inch  in  diameter  slice  of  calf's  brains  breaded  and  fried,  over  this  a  stuffed 
Spanish  olive  (No.  695),  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  ball  of  truffle  glazed  over  with  meat  glaze. 

(2404).  VOL-AU-VENT  A  LA  LUOINI-SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  a  la  Lucini). 
Prepare  the  small  vol-au-vent  (No.  180):  when  cooked  take  off  the  covers,  empty  out  theinsides 
and  replace  these  covers  by  a  game  quenelle  (No.  91)  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  by  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  poach  and  bread-crumb  them  by  dipping  them  in  Villeroi  sauce  (No. 
560),  then  rolling  them  in  bread-crumbs,  then  fry  to  a  good  color.  Put  into  a  saucepan  some  brown 
sauce  (No.  414)  and  Madeira  wine;  add  to  this  some  game  fumet(No.  397)  mixed  with  a  garnishing 
composed  of  two-thirds  of  small  young  rabbit  quenelles  (No.  91)  molded  in  a  small  coffeespoon 
(No.  155)  and  one-third  of  small  turned  mushroom  heads  (No.  118),  or  in  case  there  be  no  small 
ones  then  cut-up  others  in  two  or  four  pieces.  With  this  garnishing  fill  the  small  crusts,  lay  the 
Villeroi  quenelle  on  top  and  in  the  center  of  it  a  round  slice  of  truffle  one  inch  in  diameter  and 
glaze  over. 

(2405).  VOL-AU-VENT  OF  OYSTEES  A  LA  MAINTENON-SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  d'Huitres 

a  la  Maintenon). 

Set  into  a  saucepan  some  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice,  place  it  over  a  hot  fire,  and  add  to  it 
some  fine  raw  oysters;  after  poaching  and  draining  them  cut  them  into  pieces,  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan and  season  with  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  and  then  add  some  pike  quenelles  (No.  90); 
also  some  cut-up  truffles  and  mushrooms;  add  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  thicken  it  just 
when  ready  to  serve  with  raw  egg-yolks  diluted  with  a  little  cream  and  fine  butter.  Fill  the  small 
vol-au-vent  crusts  with  this,  keeping  all  very  warm,  put  on  the  cover  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2406.  VOL-AU-VENT,  PAKISTAN  STYLE— SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  a  la  Parisienne). 

Have  a  brown  (No.  414)  or  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492)  and  add  to  it  some  half-inch  squares  of 
veal  or  lamb  sweetbreads,  stoned  olives  cut  in  four,  turned  mushrooms  (No.  118)  and  small  chicken 
quenelles.  Fill  prepared  small  vol-au-vent  crusts  with  this  garnishing  and  range  trussed  crawfish 
on  top,  then  cover. 

(2407).  VOL-AU-VENT  OP  EEEDBIEDS,  DIPLOMATE-SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  de  Mesanges 

Moustaches  a  la  Diplomate). 

With  six  turns  of  puff  paste  prepare  eight  small  vol-au-vent  crusts  (No.  180);  after  taking  them 
out  of  the  oven  detach  them  from  the  baking  sheet  and  press  on  the  center  of  the  paste  to  enlarge 
the  hollow  space,  and  keep  them  warm.  Roast  two  dozen  reedbirds,  having  them  rare;  remove  the 
breasts  without  any  bones,  suppress  the  skin  and  lay  them  in  a  small  sautoir;  mix  with  them  an  equal 
proportion  of  halved  game  quenelles,  molded  with  a  spoon  (No.  155)  and  poached  when  wanted  in 
salted  water;  also  add  three  dozen  cooked  truffles  trimmed  into  small  olive  shapes;  mix  these  garnish- 
ings  with  a  not  too  thin  but  very  hot  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  and  with  this  fill  up  the  warm  vol-au- 
vent  crusts;  instead  of  a  cover  close  the  apertures  with  a  ring  made  of  puff  paste,  and  in  the  center 
have  a  large  Spanish  olive  standing  upright,  stuffed  with  game  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  and 
foies-gras.  Dress  these  vol-au-vent  on  a  folded  napkin  and  send  them  to  the  table  at  once. 

(2408).  VOL-AU-VENT  OF  SALMON  TEOUT  A  LA  EEGENCE-SMALL  (Petits  Vol-au-vent  de 

Truite  Saumone~e  a  la  Eegence). 

The  only  difference  between  bouchees  and  small  vol-au-vent  is  that  bouchees  are  filled  with 
either  a  salpicon  or  a  pure'e,  while  vol-au-vent  are  filled  with  small,  distinct  garnishings.  Prepare 
eight  or  ten  small  vol-au-vent  crusts  (No.  180);  cook  them  in  a  brisk  oven;  remove  and 


722  THE    EPICUREAN. 

detach  them  from  the  pan,  impress  a  hollow  in  the  center  with  the  finger  and  keep  them  warm.  Put 
into  a  small  saucepan  a  garnishing  composed  of  a  pound  of  salmon-trout  escalops,  twelve  small  poached 
oysters,  twelve  mushrooms  or  cut  up  morils,  twelve  small  fish  quenelles  (No.  90)  rolled  on  a  floured 
table  and  poached,  also  some  small  cut-up  poached  milts;  cover  these  with  a  rich  and  very  hot 
Normande  sauce  (No.  509),  finishing  with  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580).  Fill  the  warm  vol- 
au-vent  crusts  with  this  garnishing,  cover  lightly  with  some  of  the  sauce  instead  of  a  lid,  and  close 
the  aperture  with  a  pretty  mushroom  head,  turned  and  very  white,  left  in  its  natural  state.  Dress 
the  vol-au-vent  at  once  on  folded  napkins;  they  can  also  be  filled  with  one  garnishing  only. 


COLD  SERVICE  (Service  Froid). 


(2409).  COLD  DISHES  (Le  Froid). 

The  cold  service  is  the  most  elegant  and  artistic  one  of  the  culinary  art.  It  requires  taste,  skill 
and  much  study  in  order  to  learn  the  necessary  moldings,  modelings  and  requisite  cookery.  Orna- 
ments render  the  socles  and  the  pieces  beautiful  and  coquettish;  their  appearance  should  be  neat 
and  precise;  the  pieces  must  be  well  defined  and  designed  before  beginning;  prepare  all  the  needed 
materials  beforehand  so  that  when  the  work  has  once  begun  there  will  be  nothing  to  delay  the  prog- 
ress. Wax  flowers  and  leaves  are  very  useful,  therefore  a  good  workman  must  learn  to  make 
them  in  great  variety.  Any  ordinary  cook  can  attain  renown  by  studying  the  complicated  ways 
of  preparing  cold  dishes,  but  he  must  give  his  sole  attention  to  this  special  part  which  helps  to 
increase  his  reputation  and  develop  his  ideas,  for  by  it  he  elevates  his  trade  to  a  positive  art.  The 
manner  of  properly  preparing  sauces,  side  dishes,  roasts  and  pastries  should  of  course  be  executed 
with  as  much  care  as  the  cold.  Jellies  should  be  tasty,  limpid  and  transparent;  if  they  be  defective, 
then  the  handsomest  pieces  are  open  to  criticism.  Hatelets  and  jelly  garnishings  greatly  enhance 
the  appearance  of  the  pieces,  therefore  care  should  be  used  that  they  are  most  beautiful  and  all 
croutons  cut  with  precision  and  symmetry.  Cold  pieces  should  be  prepared  beforehand,  for  they 
must  not  be  hurried  nor  left  to  be  finished  at  the  last  moment. 


(2410).  ASPIC  OF  COOKS'-OOMBS  AND  KIDNEYS  A  LA  MAZARIN  (Aspic  de  Cretes  et  de 

Rognons  de  Ooqs  a  la  Mazarin). 

Braise  some  cocks'-combs  and  kidneys,  and  when  cold  drain  and  wipe  well.  Cover  the  combs 
with  a  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  and  the  kidneys  with  a  blond  chaudfroid  made  by  mixing  half 
brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594)  and  half  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596).  Coat  with  jelly  a  plain  cylin- 
drical or  channeled  mold,  having  it  rather  high,  and  fill  the  bottom  with  the  combs  dressed  in  a 
ring,  one  overlapping  the  other,  and  cover  with  jelly;  lay  on  top  a  garnishing  of  the  kidneys,  cover 
with  more  jelly  and  when  this  has  hardened  dress  on  some  roasted  chicken  fillets,  sliced  and  pared 
round-shaped,  and  covered  with  ravigote  chaudfroid  (No.  595);  lay  these  in  a  circle  and  continue 
to  fill  up  the  mold,  alternating  the  combs,  kidneys  and  chicken;  when  very  full  let  get  cold  and 
unmold  on  a  small  low  socle  made  of  stearine.  Place  a  mandrel  in  the  empty  space  in  the  mold, 
and  on  it  a  cup  filled  with  small  cases  containing  whole  glazed  truffles,  and  decorate  around  with 
small  timbales  (No.  3,  Fig.  137)  filled  with  jelly  and  foies-gras. 


(2411).  ASPIC  OF  FOIES-GRAS  (Aspic  de  Foies-Gras). 

Incrust  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  in  ice.  Unmold  on  a  small  baking  sheet  a  terrine 
of  foies-gras;  remove  all  the  grease  and  keep  it  for  one  hour  on  ice.  Cut  this  foies-gras  into  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  using  a  knife  dipped  in  hot  water,  and  then  cut  these  slices  into  inch 
and  a  quarter  rounds  with  a  pastry  cutter  also  dipped  in  hot  water.  Lift  up  these  rounds  one  by 
one  with  a  fork  and  immerse  them  in  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594),  having  it  thin  and  almost 
cold;  range  them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet  and  let  this  sauce  get  quite  stiff  on  the  ice.  Cut  out 
some  rounds  of  cooked  truffles  very  nearly  the  same  diameter  as  the  foies-gras,  only  have  half  as 
many;  glaze  them  with  a  brush  and  range  them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet.  Pour  a  quarter-inch  thick 
layer  of  jelly  into  the  mold,  and  when  it  has  become  quite  hard  dress  on  it  a  ring  of  the  foies-gras 
rounds,  the  smooth  side  uppermost  and  slightly  overlapping  each  other,  but  alternating  every  two 
with  a  round  of  truffle;  cover  this  crown  with  cold  jelly  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness,  and  again 
form  two  more  distinct  crowns  exactly  the  same  as  the  first  one  in  order  to  fill  up  the  mold,  pouring 
jelly  between  each.  Keep  the  mold  on  ice  for  one  hour  or  more.  In  order  to  turn  it  out  it  is  only 
necessary  to  dip  the  mold  into  warm  water,  wipe  dry,  and  invert  it  on  a  cold  dish. 

(723) 


724 


TTIE    EPICUREAN. 


(2412).  ASPIC  OF  FOIES-GRAS-SMALL  (Petits  Aspics  de  Foies-Gras), 

On  a  bed  of  chopped-up  ice  lay  ten  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137);  decorate  the  bottoms  of 
each  with  a  ring  of  truffles  filled  with  a  piece  of  red  tongue,  and  the  sides  with  fanciful  cuts 
of  truffles  and  egg-white  dipped  in  half-set  jelly  to  make  them  adhere  to  the  cold 
molds,  then  pour  into  each  one  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thickness  of  jelly.  Unmold 
a  terrine  of  foies-gras,  remove  from  it  cylindrical  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch  less 
than  the  diameter  of  the  molds  and  the  same  height;  range  them  in  the  molds, 
finish  filling  up  with  more  jelly  and  set  them  on  ice  for  half  an  hour  longer.  Dip 
the  timbales  into  hot  water  to  facilitate  the  unmolding,  and  dress  in  a  circle  either 
on  an  inch  and  a  quarter  high  foundation  (Fig.  8)  without  the  central  vase,  or  else  simply  on  a 
cold  dish;  fill  up  the  inside  of  the  circle  with  chopped  jelly  and  set  croutons  of  jelly  around. 


FIG.  446. 


(2413).  TERRINE  OF  FOIES-GRAS  IN  ASPIC-WHOLE  (Terrine  Entiere  de  Foies-Gras  en  Aspic). 
Unmold  a  terrine  of  foies-gras;  scrape  it  neatly  with  a  knife  on  top  and  sides  to  remove  all  the 
exterior  grease,  and  keep  it  on  ice.  Procure  a  mold  of  the  same  shape  but  an  inch  wider  in  diame- 
ter and  an  inch  deeper;  incrust  it  in  pounded  ice;  decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  with  fanciful  cuts 
of  truffles,  tongue,  egg-white,  and  pistachios,  dipping  each  piece  into  half-set  jelly  before  fastening 


FIG.  447. 

them  on;  cover  this  decoration  with  a  layer  of  jelly,  and  pour  in  more  to  lay  half  an  inch  thick  in 
the  bottom.  Place  the  foies-gras  exactly  in  the  center  and  finish  filling  the  mold  with  cooled-off 
jelly;  keep  on  ice.  Put  a  rice  foundation  bottom  one  inch  and  a  half  in  height  on  a  plated  metal 
tray  with  a  half-inch  high  straight  edge  (the  rice  foundation  should  be  one  inch  and  a  half  less  in 
diameter  than  the  tray),  turn  the  aspic  out  of  its  mold  on  to  the  rice  foundation,  fastening  a  small 
basket  on  top  secured  by  a  skewer,  and  filling  it  with  small  glazed  truffles.  Decorate  around 
the  rice  foundation  with  triangular  jelly  croutons,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 


COLD    SERVICE.  725 

(2414).  ASPIC  OF  LOBSTER  (Aspic  de  Eomard). 

Prepare  a  wooden  foundation  about  two  inches  thick  and  furnished  with  a  slightly  raised  bor- 
der on  the  outer  edge  so  as  to  uphold  the  entree  when  dressed.  The  aspic  mold  should  be  chosen 
slightly  narrower  than  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  which  is  to  be  covered  with  paper.  Suppress  the 
shells  from  the  tails  and  claws  of  two  or  three  small  cooked  lobsters;  cut  the  tails  lengthways  in 
two  and  also  split  the  claw-meat  in  two,  then  put  them  into  a  vessel  and  season.  Prepare  a  gar- 
nishing of  carrots  cut  into  balls  with  a  small  vegetable  spoon,  blanch  and  lay  them  in  the  ves- 
sel and  with  them  mix  gherkin  balls  cut  the  same  size,  small  cooked  Brussels  sprouts,  small 
blanched  olives  stuffed  with  anchovies,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt,  oil  and  vinegar.  Incrust  on  ice  a 


FIG.  448. 

dome-shaped  mold  wider  than  its  height,  decorate  the  sides  and  bottom  with  designs  of  hard-boiled 
egg  white,  truffles  and  gherkins;  coat  the  mold  rather  thickly  with  jelly;  fill  the  inside  with  the 
halved  lobster  tail  and  claws,  pressing  the  red  side  of  the  meat  against  the  jelly;  fill  up  the  hollow 
space  with  the  prepared  carrot  balls  seasoned  as  for  a  salad  and  finished  with  mayonnaise  sauce  with 
jelly  (No.  613).  Let  the  aspic  harden  on  ice  for  one  hour  at  least.  Incrust  also  on  ice  twelve  small 
timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137);  decorate  the  bottoms  with  rounds  of  truffles,  the  sides  with  small 
round  pieces  of  white  of  egg  and  coat  them  over  lightly  with  jelly;  as  soon  as  this  is  hard  fill  them 
up  with  lobster  cream,  the  same  as  for  No.  2470,  and  keep  them  for  twenty-five  minutes  on  ice. 
Just  when  ready  to  serve  dip  the  dome  mold  into  hot  water,  wipe  it  off  quickly  and  invert  the 
aspic  on  the  raised-edge  foundation;  on  top  of  it  fasten  a  small  lobster  cream  "pain"  molded 
in  a  channeled  mold,  and  against  the  edge  of  the  bottom  of  the  dish  unmold  the  lobster  cream 
tim bales,  after  dipping  the  molds  into  hot  water.  This  is  to  be  served  with  a  separate  mayonnaise 
sauce  (No.  606). 

(2415).  ASPIC  OF  OYSTEES  (Aspic  d'Huitres). 

Blanch  some  oysters,  drain,  wipe  and  cool;  coat  them  over  with  a  liberal  layer  of  remoulade 
sauce  (No.  628),  to  which  liquid  jelly  has  been  added.  Decorate  a  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  with 
fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  egg-white,  gherkin  and  the  red  part  of  lobster,  dipping  each  piece  in  half- 
set  jelly  and  fastening  them  on  to  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mold;  pour  in  a  layer  of  jelly,  having 
it  half  an  inch  thick,  and  on  it  dress  the  oysters  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other;  pour  in 
more  jelly  to  cover  these  another  half  inch  and  continue  until  the  mold  be  full,  then  leave  for  sev- 
eral hours  to  become  very  cold;  unmold  and  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons. 

(2416).  ASPIC  OF  PARTEIDGE-MINION  FILLETS  (Aspic  de  Filets  Mignons  de  Perdreau). 

Pare  twelve  partridge  minion  fillets;  remove  all  sinews  and  thin  skin  and  streak  them  with 
semicircles  of  truffles  graduated  in  size;  season  and  bend  their  thin  ends  in  one  direction;  poach  in 
a  little  butter  and  lemon  juice;  drain  and  when  cold  pare  nicely.  Incrust  a  plain  cylindrical  mold 
(Fig.  150)  in  ice.  Decorate  the  sides  on  the  top  and  bottom  with  an  even  chain  of  round  pieces  of 
truffle  and  red  beef  tongue,  cut  out  with  a  tin  tube  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  these 
pieces  are  to  be  dipped  in  half -set  jelly  and  the  red  and  black  colors  alternated,  letting  each  chain 
be  at  an  equal  distance  from  the  minions.  Decorate  the  sides  in  the  center  as  shown  in  Fig.  449, 
with  the  streaked  fillets,  dipping  one  at  a  time  in  half-set  jelly  and  applying  the  streaked  side  to 
the  mold;  in  order  to  succeed  with  this  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  incline  the  mold  on  ice  and 
turn  it  around  as  soon  as  the  jelly  hardens  and  the  separate  fillets  are  fastened  on  firmly.  Coat 
this  decoration  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  and  fill  the  mold  with  a  partridge  preparation  a  la  Mont- 
gomery (No.  2548);  leave  it  to  cool  on  ice  for  one  hour.  When  prepared  to  serve,  dip  the  mold  in 


726  THE    EPICUREAN. 

hot  water  and  invert  the  aspic  on  a  bed  of  cold  jelly  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish;  fill  the  center  with 
foies-gras  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  size  covered  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594);  on  top 


FIG.  449. 

place  very  white  cocks'-combs  brushed  over  with  jelly  and  surround  these  with  a  chain  of  small 
truffles  dipped  in  jelly;  keep  the  aspic  on  ice  for  half  an  hour  before  serving. 

(2417).  ASPIC  OF  PHEASANT  (Aspic  de  Faisan). 

Clean  two  young  pheasants;  truss  them  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178),  and  braise  white;  cool  off, 
remove  the  breasts  (fillets)  and  pare  into  the  shape  of  escalops  one  inch  in  diameter  by  three-six- 
teenths of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cover  each  one  with  foies-gras.  Pound  the  remainder  of  the  meats 
and  rub  through  a  sieve;  put  the  pulp  in  a  vessel,  and  add  to  it  a  pint  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
prepared  with  truffle  essence  (No.  395),  and  a  pint  of  strong  jelly  (No.  103);  let  this  get  very  cold, 
and  with  it  thickly  cover  the  escalops;  leave  to  cool  on  ice.  Besides  this  make  a  puree  with  one 
partridge,  and  dilute  it  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596) ;  season  highly,  rub  through  a  sieve,  and 
mix  in  as  much  white  jelly  (No.  103)  as  chaudfroid.  Coat  a  cylindrical  fancy  mold  (No.  150)  with 
white  jelly,  and  incrust  it  very  firmly  in  ice.  On  the  bottom  of  this  mold  lay  a  bed  of  jelly  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  on  it  arrange  some  slices  of  truffles  one  overlaying  the  other,  each 
slice  to  be  an  inch  in  diameter  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  on  top  of  these  place  the  escalops; 
pour  on  a  layer  of  the  white  chaudfroid  half  an  inch  thick,  and  on  this  a  row  of  escalops  overlap- 
ping each  other;  cover  these  with  more  white  jelly;  now  pour  in  a  layer  of  chaudfroid,  and  continue 
the  process  until  the  mold  be  full;  leave  till  very  cold,  then  invert  it  on  a  small  socle,  either  of 
stearin  or  carved  rice  (see  No.  10). 

(2418).  ASPIC  OF  PULLET  A  LA  CUSSY  (Aspic  de  Poulards  ^  la  Cussy). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  six  medium  chickens,  weighing  about  two  pounds  each;  suppress  the 
epidermis,  and  remove  the  minion  fillets,  from  which  suppress  the  sinews  and  fine  skin; 
pare  the  large  fillets  into  half-hearts  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  with  the  pointed 
ends  lying  toward  the  center.  Make  five  gashes  on  each  minion  fillet  and  fill  them  in  with  graded 
scalloped  rounds  of  truffle;  roll  them  up  crown-shaped,  place  them  on  pieces  of  buttered  paper 
and  with  a  pocket  fill  the  center  with  a  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  foies-gras 
well-mingled,  having  half  of  each;  lay  on  top  a  round  piece  of  red  beef  tongue,  and  set 
these  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  pour  over  some  clarified  butter  and  lemon  juice,  and  cover 
each  one  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  let  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cold 
cover  the  minions  with  half-set  jelly  and  the  large  fillets  with  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596); 
when  this  is  cold  repeat  the  operation  and  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet  one  beside  the  other  with- 
out allowing  them  to  touch;  detach  them  by  slipping  a  thin-bladed  knife  under,  then  pare  them 
into  half-hearts  all  of  the  same  size.  Decorate  a  plain  or  channeled  cylindrical  mold  with  fanciful 
cuts  of  truffles,  tongue,  gherkin,  egg-white,  or  pistachios,  dipping  them  singly  into  half-set  jelly, 
and  applying  them  symmetrically  on  to  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  very  cold  mold,  having  them 
only  on  the  top  and  bottom,  leaving  the  center  undecorated.  Coat  over  with  jelly  so  as  tc  support 
the  decorations,  then  lay  the  minion  fillets  half  an  inch  from  the  bottom,  and  at  even  distances 
from  one  another;  fill  it  up  with  jelly  half  an  inch  above  the  minions,  and  when  this  is  set  dress 
on  the  large  fillets,  one  overlapping  the  other,  the  pointed  ends  downward;  then  fill  up  with  jelly 
and  let  it  get  perfectly  hard.  Have  a  plain  dish  covered  with  a  tin  bottom,  and  spread  this  with 
ravigote  butter  (No.  583)  and  a  round  of  white  paper  over;  unmold  the  aspic  on  this,  and  fill  the 
center  with  a  wooden  support  with  a  cup  filled  with  cut-up  vegetables  on  top,  held  on  with  a  skewer. 
Around  the  bottom  range  chopped  jelly  and  crusts. 


COLD  SERVICE:. 


727 


(2419).   ASPIC  OP  QUAILS-BEEASTS  (Aspic  de  Filets  de  dailies), 

Kaise  the  breasts  and  minion  fillets  from  three  or  four  quails,  pare  and  beat  lightly,  season 
and  poach  in  butter  and  lemon  juice,  keeping  them  rare;  cool  them  off  under  the  pressure  of  a 
light  weight  between  two  buttered  papers.  Detach  the  minion  fillets  from  the  carcass  and  streak 
them  with  truffles;  poach  them  also  in  butter  and  lemon  juice,  bending  them  slightly.  Divide 
each  large  fillet  into  two  pieces,  pare  them  neatly  and  dip  them  one  by  one  in  a  brown  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  594) ;  range  them  as  fast  as  they  are  done  on  a  baking  sheet  to  harden  the  sauce,  then 
pare.  Cut  some  croutons  of  very  tender  red  beef  tongue,  having  them  the  shape  of  the  fillets,  only 
half  as  many,  and  trim  them  nicely.  Imbed  a  fancy  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  148)  in  ice;  on  the 
bottom  lay  a  thin  bed  of  jelly  and  on  this  dress  the  minion  fillets,  pressing  them  down  on  the 
sides  that  are  streaked;  cover  them  gradually  with  cold  jelly  to  have  it  form  a  thickness  of  about 
an  inch,  then  let  it  set;  dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  on  this,  laying  them  on  their  smoothest  side  and 
alternating  every  two  with  a  crouton  of  red  beef  tongue;  cover  this  circle  with  another  layer  of 
the  jelly  half  an  inch  thick  and  form  more  circles  with  the  fillets,  proceeding  as  for  the  others. 
Fill  the  mold  with  cold  jelly,  put  the  mold  aside  on  ice  for  an  hour,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve 
invert  the  aspic  on  a  bed  of  jelly  hardened  on  a  dish  and  surround  it  with  small  paper  cases  filled 
with  small  truffles  covered  with  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594). 

(2420).  ASPIC  OF  TONGUE  A  LA  PICQUAKT  (Aspic  de  Langue  a  la  Picquart). 

To  make  this  aspic  use  a  mold  having  four  rounded  top  uprights  without  the  central  tube; 

decorate  the  flat  part  of  the  mold  between  the  uprights  with  rounded  bits  of  hard-boiled  egg-whites 

and  the  uprights  each  with  three  rosettes,  also  of  the  egg-white;  coat  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly 

and  fill  each  upright  with  tongue  cut  in  slices  three-sixteenths  of  inch  thick,  well  pared  and  cut 


FIG.  450. 

round,  then  reconstructed  as  before;  keep  the  thinnest  end  of  the  tongue  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mold.  Put  a  solid  piece  of  tongue  in  the  center  of  the  mold  to  hold  up  the  cupid.  Set  the  mold 
on  ice,  fill  it  with  jelly  and  when  this  is  exceedingly  cold  unmold  the  aspic  on  a  stand  made  in 
two  pieces,  one  of  which  is  nine  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter  by  one  inch  and  a  half  high,  the 
other  eight  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  and  one  and  a  half  inches  high;  both  should  be 
covered  with  montpellier  butter  (No.  582),  besprinkled  with  chopped  parsley.  Garnish  around  the 
base  of  the  aspic  with  chopped  jelly  and  surround  the  upper  tier  with  triangular  croutons  of  clear 


728 


THE:  EPICUREAN. 


jelly  and  the  lower  one  with  timbales  of  foies-gras  made  in  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137);  in  the  center 
of  the  aspic  place  a  cupid  supporting  a  vase  filled  with  small  glazed  truffles. 

(2421).  ASPIC  OF  VEAL  WITH  MAOEDOINE  ARTICHOKES-KERNEL  (Aspic  de  Veau  aux 

Artichauts  Mac6doine). 

Braise  a  kernel  of  veal  after  larding  the  inside  parts  with  veal  udder,  ham  and  truffles;  put  it 
in  an  oval  mold  to  cool,  pressing  down  well.  Unmold,  and  cut  it  into  slices.  Decorate  a  larger  mold 
with  vegetables,  coat  it  by  pouring  in  some  jelly  and  turning  the  mold  so  that  the  jelly  covers  the 
vegetables,  then  pour  in  more  jelly  to  have  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  at  the  bottom  and  lay 
the  sliced  kernel  over,  having  reformed  it  to  its  original  shape,  then  fill  up  entirely  with  slightly 
cool  jelly.  When  perfectly  cold  unmold  on  a  dish  and  surround  the  meat  with  chopped  jelly,  lay 
on  top  some  artichoke  bottoms  filled  with  macedoine  (No.  2650)  and  decorate  the  summit  with 
three  Bellevue  hatelets  (No.  2526). 

(2422).  ASPICS  WITH  SHKIMPS-SMALL  (Petits  Aspics  aux  Crevettes). 

Shell  one  hundred  shrimp  tails,  having  them  cooked  very  red;  keep  them  covered  in  a  cool 
place.  Make  a  quart  of  good  aspic  jelly  (No.  103).  Incrust  in  ice  ten  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig. 
137);  decorate  them  with  fanciful  pieces  of  truffles  or  gherkins,  covering  the  decoration  with  a  thin 
layer  of  jelly,  then  pile  on  the  shrimp  tails  symmetrically  all  around,  sticking  them  in  with  the 
point  of  a  larding  needle  after  dipping  them  one  at  a  time  in  half-set  jelly.  When  the  sides  are 
covered,  fill  the  hollow  in  the  center  with  a  bed  of  green  asparagus;  on  top  of  the  asparagus  lay 
some  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  on  this  chopped  mushrooms,  and  so  on  until  the  mold  is  full, 
finishing  with  mayonnaise.  Keep  the  aspics  on  ice  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  unmold- 
ing  and  dress  them  on  a  bed  of  jelly  on  a  dish  to  prevent  them  from  slipping  off. 

(2423).  VOLLERE  GALANTINE  OF  PHEASANTS  A  LA  OASIMIE    PERIER  (Voliere  Galantine 

de  Faisans  a  la  Oasimir  Pe~rier). 

Procure  two  fine  English  pheasants  with  handsome  plumage,  remove  the  skin  with  the  feathers 
from  the  neck  and  upper  breast,  also  the  wings  and  tails,  being  careful  not  to  destroy  their  beauty. 


FIG.  451. 

Fix  the  heads  in  such  a  way  that  they  retain  their  natural  appearance.  Bone  the  pheasants,  spread 
them  open  on  a  cloth.  Prepare  half  a  pound  of  peeled  truffles  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  half 
a  pound  of  fat  livers  the  same  size;  make  a  forcemeat  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
white  game  breasts  and  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  pork  tenderloin,  also  adding  two  pounds  of  fat 
pork.  Chop  the  whole  separately  and  very  finely,  season  with  galantine  spices  (No.  168)  and 
pound  to  a  pulp;  press  it  through  a  sieve,  afterward  adding  some  finely  chopped  truffle  peelings; 


COLD    SERVICE.  729 

mix  this  well  with  the  squares  of  truffles  and  fat  livers,  also  a  few  pistachios.  Season  the  pheas- 
ants, divide  the  forcemeat  in  two  parts,  one  for  each  bird,  and  fill  them  with  it;  roll  the  two  galantines 
in  separate  napkins,  tie  firmly  at  both  ends  and  in  the  center:  cook  in  a  game  stock  made  with 
parings  of  white  meat  game;  when  well  done  take  them  out  and  leave  to  cool  off  slightly;  rewrap  in 
the  same  napkins  after  cleansing  them  in  clear  water,  having  them  six  inches  long;  tie  them  uptight 
at  the  ends  and  leave  to  cool  under  a  light  weight;  unwrap  when  cold  and  glaze  over  with  a  not  too 
thick  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594).  Ornament  one  end  with  the  head,  and  the  other  with  the  tail, 
placing  the  wings  on  the  sides,  keeping  them  in  position  with  skewers;  the  necks  should  be  strongly 
salted  and  have  a  rather  thick  wire  inserted  in  the  bone  of  the  head,  then  stuffed  with  cotton  so 
that  it  resumes  its  original  size  and  shape;  finish  with  an  oval  piece  of  cardboard  about  three  inches 
in  length.  Dress  the  pheasants  on  small  oval  socles  from  four  to  five  inches  high,  these  to  be  made 
of  tin  covered  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  glazed  and  decorated,  then  placed  on  a  larger  socle, 
regarding  the  details  for  which  see  drawing.  These  tin  socles  can  be  replaced  by  others  made 
either  of  stearin  or  carved  rice,  or  else  an  oval  pie  crust  the  same  size  as  the  tin  ones.  On  the 
edge  of  the  socle  lay  small  cases,  each  one  to  contain  a  truffle  glazed  over  with  game  glaze  (No. 
398),  or  garnished  with  foies-gras,  or  else  small  boned  birds  stuffed,  braised  and  glazed  with 
brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594). 

(2424).  VOLIERE  GALANTINE  OP  PHEASANT  A  LA  WADDINGTON  (Voliere  Galantine  de 

Paisan  a  la  Waddington). 

Prepare  one  pheasant  instead  of  two  as  described  in  the  Casimir  Perier;  dress  it  exactly  the 
same  and  stand  it  on  an  oval  socle  four  to  five  inches  high  by  seven  and  a  half  inches  long  and  four 
inches  wide;  place  this  on  another  oval  socle  about  six  inches  high,  eleven  and  a  half  inches  long 
and  eight  inches  wide.  Pick  off  all  the  meat  from  a  young  rabbit,  cut  it  in  small  dice  and  fry 
them  in  fat  pork  over  a  brisk  fire;  when  cold,  pound  and  add  the  same  quantity  of  grated  fresh 
fat  pork;  pound  all  together  again  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  press  it  through  a 
sieve  and  mix  in  with  the  preparation  a  quarter  as  much  fat  pork  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
squares,  and  then  blanched,  and  as  much  truffle  cut  the  same  size  With  this  fill  twelve  timbale 
molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  cover  with  very  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half 
an  hour;  remove  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Decorate  some  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  with  cuts  of 
truffles  and  egg-white,  pour  a  little  jelly  into  the  bottom  of  each  mold.  Unmold  the  No.  2  tim- 
bales,  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  bottoms  and  sides,  pare  nicely  and  then  put  them  into  the  No.  1 
molds,  filling  up  with  jelly;  when  very  firm,  unmold  and  arrange  them  around  the  small  socle  of 
the  galantine  exactly  under  the  pheasant,  placing  a  border  of  jelly  croutons  outside. 

(2425).  BALLOTINES  OF  LAMB  CUPOLA  SHAPED  (Ballotines  d'Agneau  en  Forme  de  Ooupole), 
Bone  two  shoulders  of  spring  lamb,  remove  all  fat  and  sinews  and  fill  them  with  a  stuffing 
made  with  half  a  pound  of  veal,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked 
and  finely  chopped  ham;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley  and  chives;  mix  into 
it  some  truffles,  pistachios  and  cooked  tongue,  all  cut  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  dice  pieces. 
Spread  the  shoulders  on  the  table,  season  and  put  in  the  dressing;  sew  up  to  enclose  it  well,  giving 
each  a  round  form,  then  braise  with  very  little  moistening,  putting  them  into  a  saucepan  lined  with 
bards  of  fat  pork  and  wetting  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419).  When  well  done  place 
them  in  oval  cupola-shaped  molds  and  let  cool  off  under  a  weight;  remove,  wash  the  molds  well 
and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  pistachios  and  tongue  dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  coat  the 
inside  of  the  mold  with  a  layer  of  white  chaudfroid,  return  the  meats  as  before  and  finish  filling  with 
jelly.  Unmold  when  thoroughly  cold  and  dress  on  long  dishes  on  a  socle  of  rice  two  inches  high, 
the  size  of  the  cupola.  Have  prepared  some  red  lambs'  tongues,  salted,  blanched  and  braised  for 
two  hours  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  the  same  as  the  shoulders;  drain,  skin  and 
set  under  a  weight;  strain  their  stock  over  and  when  very  cold  pare  them  all  of  uniform  size 
and  oval-shaped;  the  size  is  three  inches  long  by  two  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  glaze 
and  dress  around  the  lamb  cupolas,  one  overlapping  the  other.  Garnish  around  the  dish  with 
chopped  jelly  and  croutons  and  lay  some  croustades  filled  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  (No.  2650) 
mingled  with  a  little  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  Stick  Bellevue  hatelets  (No.  2526)  on  top  of  each  cupola. 

(2426).  BALLOTINES  OF  QUAIL  A  LA  TIVOLIER  (Ballotines  de  Cailles  alaTivolier). 
Remove  all  the  meats  from  three  young  rabbits;  keep  the  minion  fillets  aside  and  suppress  the 
sinews  from  the  remainder;    pass  the  meat  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.    47),    weigh  and 


730  THE    EPICUREAN. 

allow  double  the  same  quantity  of  unsalted  fat  pork.  Chop  up  the  pork  fat,  add  the  rabbit  meat 
and  chop  together  once  more.  Chop  up  also  eight  ounces  of  lean  ham  cooked  separately  and  mix 
this  in  with  the  rabbit,  seasoning  with  salt  and  spices  for  game  galantines  (No.  168).  Bone  twelve 
quails,  equalize  the  meats,  removing  half  of  the  fillets  to  lay  them  in  the  places  that  are  bare  of 
meat;  spread  a  third  of  the  forcemeat  over  the  birds  and  on  each  one  lay  four  small  truffles, 
wrapped  in  udder,  placing  them  in  lengthwise;  on  each  side  of  these  truffles  put  slices  of  well- 
seasoned  rabbit  tenderloin,  and  over  another  third  part  of  the  forcemeat  and  four  more  truffles; 
lay  at  each  end  and  in  the  center  the  remainder  of  the  tenderloins  and  forcemeat  over  the  whole. 
Close  up  the  quails,  sew  and  wrap  them  in  slices  of  fat  pork,  then  in  a  cloth;  tie  it  firmly  to  keep 
the  galantines  in  good  shape.  Line  a  braiziere  (Fig.  134)  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  lay  the  boned 
quail  on  top  with  the  game  carcasses  around;  moisten  with  plenty  of  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419). 
Two  hours'  cooking  will  be  quite  sufficient;  take  off  and  put  them  under  weight  in  molds  the  same 
shape  as  the  ones  used  for  ballotines  of  squabs  a  la  Madison  (No.  2427)  and  when  very  cold  unmold 
and  wash  the  same  molds  and  decorate  them  with  truffles  and  white  of  egg;  cover  the  decora- 
tions with  a  light  coating  of  jelly;  fill  them  with  the  quails  and  jelly;  leave  on  ice  for  two  hours 
then  turn  them  over  and  dress  them  on  a  trimmed  rice  socle  two  inches  high;  garnish  around  with 
chopped  jelly  and  over  this  cold  artichoke  bottoms  (No.  2501).  Garnish  the  center  with  small 
crescents  of  red  beef  tongue  glazed  with  jelly. 

(2427).  BALLOTINES  OP  SQUABS  A  LA  MADISON  (Ballotines  de  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Madison). 

Bone  twelve  squabs,  previously  singed  and  cleaned;  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  into 
quarter-inch  dice  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  peeled  truffles,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  pork,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  livers,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
pistachios;  put  all  of  these  into  a  vessel  and  pour  some  Madeira  wine  over.  Prepare  a  forcemeat  with 
half  a  pound  of  chicken  meat,  half  a  pound  of  lean  pork,  both  free  of  sinews,  and  a  pound 
of  fresh  fat  pork;  run  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47),  pound  to  a  pulp  and  rub  through 


FIG.  452. 

a  sieve  (Fig.  97).  Put  this  forcemeat  in  a  vessel,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  liver  forcemeat  (No. 
81),  and  the  chopped  truffle  peelings;  mix  the  salpicon  in  with  and  divide  it  up  into  twelve  equal 
parts.  Lay  one  of  these  into  each  boned  squab,  inclose  it  neatly  in  the  skin  and  lay  each  bird  in 
an  oval  dome-shaped  mold  three  and  three-eighths  inches  long,  two  and  three-eighths  inches  wide 
and  one  and  three-quarters  inches  deep.  Range  these  molds  on  a  baking  sheet,  cover  over  with 
another  one  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  about  forty-five  minutes;  after  removing  lay  small  boards 
on  top  of  each,  they  to  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  three  and  a  quarter  inches  long  and  two 
and  a  quarter  inches  wide,  of  the  same  oval  shape  as  the  molds  themselves.  Set  these  aside  to  cool 
with  a  board  over  and  weights  on  top;  then  unmold,  clean  the  molds  properly  and  decorate  them 
with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles;  cover  with  a  light  coat  of  jelly  and  another  coat  of  white  chaudfroid 
(No.  596);  place  one  of  the  ballotines  in  each,  fill  up  with  jelly  and  unmold  again  when  cold;  they  are 
to  be  dressed  on  the  platforms  as  explained  later  on.  Place  on  a  round  dish,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
452,  around-shaped  stearin  socle  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  by  seven  and  a  half  in  diameter;  fasten  a 
slanting  center  support  to  the  middle  of  this  and  on  it  have  three  metal  uprights  held  firmly  by  the 


COLD    SERVICE.  731 

upraised  edges  of  the  dish.  Each  one  of  these  uprights  is  provided  with  four  platforms  attached 
by  movable  hinges  and  beside  has  two  sharp  points  near  the  edge  so  as  to  keep  the  ballotines  in 
place.  They  are  kept  together  by  another  small  platform  that  is  fastened  to  each  upright  by 
means  of  a  small  hook.  On  top  lay  a  stearine  vase  garnished  with  cut  vegetables  to  imitate 
flowers  or  other  objects.  Between  each  shelf  at  the  base  place  a  fine  emptied  tomato  filled 
with  seasoned  macedoine  (No.  2650)  dressed  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  Fill  the  basin  of 
the  dish  with  chopped  jelly  and  clusters  of  truffle  set  at  intervals,  and  around  it  set  evenly  cut 
croutons.  Place  on  the  large  socle  or  on  another  dish.  Have  a  socle  made  the  same  as 
represented  in  Fig.  453;  this  can  be  of  mutton  and  veal  fat,  partly  mixed  with  virgin  wax 
to  produce  more  firmness,  or  else  it  can  be  made  of  stearine.  When  the  pieces  composing  the 


FIG.  453. 

socle,  or  properly  speaking  the  body  of  the  socle,  such  as  the  three  griffons,  the  three  shells  ana 
the  stearine  support,  are  modeled  they  are  to  be  scraped  the  same  as  described  in  No.  56.  Take  a 
round  board  an  inch  and  a  half  high  and  thirteen  inches  in  diameter;  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  white 
paper  and  lay  it  on  a  large,  round  silver  dish  or  tray;  in  the  center  arrange  the  principal  parts  of 
the  socle;  on  the  base  of  this  socle  place  the  three  griffons  and  on  these  the  three  shells  so  they  are 
supported  by  them,  and  the  handles  of  the  shells  lie  in  the  hollow  parts  of  the  socle  intended  to  hold 
them  firmly;  these  different  parts  are  to  be  fastened  with  royal  icing  (No.  101);  in  the  center  place  a 
stearine  support  an  inch  and  a  quarter  high  by  five  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  have  the  whole 
resting  very  straight  and  fastened  together  with  royal  icing  (No.  101).  The  base  of  the  socle  can  be 
garnished  between  the  griffons  by  laying  on  the  board  some  cases  of  larks  glazed  over  with  chaud- 
froid  or  "pains"  of  foies-gras  or  else  croustades  of  rice  filled  with  streaked  minion  fillets;  on  top  of 
these  lay  two  emptied  mushrooms  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  stuffed  with  foies-gras,  then 
fastened  together  to  form  balls,  glazing  them  over  with  chaudfroid.  The  shells  are  to  be  filled  with 
glazed  truffles  or  crescents  of  tongue  covered  with  jelly,  or  else  substitute  shells  of  foies-gras 
removed  with  a  spoon  and  sprinkled  over  with  chopped  jelly.  The  socle  is  now  ready  to  receive 
either  a  ballotine  Madison  or  a  galantine  of  partridge  a  la  Clementine  (No.  2491)  or  any  other  cold 
piece.  The  advantage  of  using  the  decorated  socles  is  that  any  dish  can  be  placed  on  them  to  give 
a  finer  appearance,  yet  the  dish  can  be  simply  laid  on  the  table  on  top  of  a  plain  silver  dish,  if  a 
plainer  service  be  required. 

(2428),  STKIPED  BASS  OE  SEA  BASS  A  LA  MANHATTAN  (Bass  KayS   ou  Bass  de  Her  a  la 

Manhattan). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  a  striped  bass;  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  pare  each  one  into  an  oval 
two  inches  by  three  inches,  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
very  finely  chopped  onion;  moisten  with  white  wine,  and  cook  smothered  in  the  oven;  now  lay 
them  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight,  pare  once  more,  and  when  exceedingly  cold  cover 
entirely  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  and  return  them  to  the  ice-box.  Prepare  a  pound  of  very 
fresh,  boneless  and  skinless  bass,  put  in  a  sautoir  two  tablespoonfuls  of  onions,  and  six  ounces  of 
clarified  butter;  first  fry  the  onion  lightly,  then  add  the  well-drained  fish;  season  with  salt,  nut- 
meg, and  cayenne  pepper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  drain  and  let  get  cold;  now  suppress  all 
the  small  bones  from  its  meat  and  pound  it  well,  slowly  adding  the  stock  mingled  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  until  it  becomes  quite 


732 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


thick.  Rub  the  forcemeat  through  a  sieve,  and  place  it  in  a  vessel  on  ice  to  beat  up  well,  incor- 
porating into  it  a  gill  of  jelly  (No.  103);  try  a  small  part  to  discover  whether  sufficiently  firm,  and 
then  add  a  little  dissolved  isinglass;  thicken  on  ice  and  put  in  the  value  of  a  pint  of  unsweetened 
and  well-drained  whipped  cream.  Coat  some  No.  2  mousseline  molds  (Fig.  138)  with  jelly,  dredge 
over  chopped  lobster  coral,  and  fill  with  the  preparation ;  keep  them  on  ice,  and  when  very  hard  un- 
mold  and  dress  in  a  circle  one  beside  the  other  on  a  round  or  oval  dish  into  the  bottom  of  which  a 
little  jelly  has  been  poured  and  allowed  to  harden.;  in  the  center  dress  the  escalops  of  bass; 
surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons;  brush  the  fish  over  with  almost  cold  jelly,  and  keep  the 
dish  very  cold  until  ready  to  serve,  sending  it  to  the  table  accompanied  by  a  fine  herb  mayon- 
naise sauce  (No.  612). 


(2429).  BASTION  A  L'AMERIOAINE  (Bastion  k  TAmericaine). 

Bone  thoroughly  six  chickens  weighing  two  pounds  each;  suppress  the  sinews  and  trim  the 
meats  evenly.  To  six  pounds  of  chopped  forcemeat  for  chicken  galantines  (No.  65)  add  one 
pound  of  lean  cooked  ham,  well  chopped,  and  half  a  pound  of  chopped  truffle  peelings;  mix  the 
whole  well  together  with  two  gills  of  Madeira  wine  and  one  gill  of  brandy.  Spread  out  the  boned 


FIG.  454. 


chickens  on  the  table,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  fill  each  one  first  with  an  eight- 
ounce  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  then  here  and  there  lay  two  ounces  of  peeled,  sliced  truffle,  a  few 
pistachio  nuts  and  some  red  beef  tongue  cut  into  quarter-inch  squares,  and  over  these  spread 
another  eight-ounce  layer  of  forcemeat;  repeat  with  the  same  quantity  of  truffles,  tongue  and 
pistachios  and  finish  filling  the  chickens  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  dividing  it  equally 
between  the  chickens;  they  should  all  be  of  equal  weight,  about  two  pounds  each.  Enclose  the 
stuffing  well  and  roll  them  up  into  long,  well-rounded  shapes;  wrap  each  galantine  tightly  in  a  cloth, 
tie  it  on  both  ends,  also  in  the  center,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  the  bones,  parings  and  a 
dozen  calves' feet  split  length  wise  in  two;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  boil,  skim  and  cook 
slowly  for  two  hours,  then  drain.  Fifteen  minutes  later  unwrap  and  re-enclose  them  again  in  a  clean 
cloth,  tie  as  before  and  make  a  loop  on  one  end  to  hang  them  up  by,  and  let  get  cold,  suspended 
from  a  hook,  and  to  the  other  end  attach  a  weight  to  pull  the  cloth  down  and  thereby  pressing  the 


COLD    SERVICE.  733 

galantine.  After  they  have  been  left  hanging  for  six  hours,  unwrap  and  lay  them  aside  in  a  cool 
place.  Have  a  bastion  mold  the  same  as  shown  in  Fig.  454;  it  is  made  in  two  pieces,  one  large  one 
and  a  smaller  one  on  top;  incrust  it  in  chopped  ice  and  decorate  according  to  the  illustration  with 
tongue,  truffles  and  egg-whites;  imitate  the  door  with  chopped  pistachios  mixed  with  jelly  and  coat 
the  decoration  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly;  lay  it  flat  on  a  very  straight  table,  also  the  tower,  then 
unwrap  the  galantines,  pare  off  the  ends  and  put  one  at  each  end  or  turret,  two  in  the  center  and 
one  cut  lengthwise  in  two  and  placed  in  the  mold  so  that  the  flat  side  faces  the  door,  thus  making 
five  galantines  for  the  large  mold;  now  place  one  in  the  tower  mold  and  with  the  pieces  left  over 
fill  the  four  cupolas  surmounting  the  four  towers;  allow  the  molds  to  get  thoroughly  cold  for  six  to 
eight  hours,  then  unmold  on  a  long  socle  and  trim  around  with  square  croutons  to  imitate  the 
battlements;  stick  a  small  pointed  ornament  in  each  cupola.  The  piece  is  now  ready  to  serve. 

(2430).  PRESSED  CORN  BEEF  (Boeuf  Presse"  a  1'Ecarlate). 

He-move  the  bones  from  a  piece  of  breast  or  brisket  of  beef  weighing  about  twelve  pounds; 
put  it  in  a  brine  of  saltpetre  (No.  15).  After  salting  for  eight  days,  drain  and  wash  the  meat; 
put  it  in  a  soup  pot  with  plenty  of  water;  let  come  to  a  boil,  skim  and  leave  to  cook  very 
slowly  for  four  or  five  hours.  When  the  meat  is  thoroughly  done,  untie  the  string,  tighten  the 
meat  in  the  cloth,  and  fasten  it  like  a  boned  turkey  at  both  ends.  Lay  it  under  the  press  or  a 
weight  and  as  soon  as  the  corned  beef  is  cold  undo  and  glaze  it  with  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 
Cut  it  in  thin  slices,  replace  as  it  was  before  cutting,  garnish  the  dish  with  chopped-up  jelly,  or 
parsley  sprigs,  and  serve. 

(2431).  EIBS  OP  BEEP  A  LA  BOURGEOISE  (Cotes  de  Boeuf  a  la  Bourgeoise). 
Select  a  three-rib  piece  from  the  thinnest  end  of  the  ribs;  remove  two  of  the  bones, 
leaving  the  middle  one  only.  Lard  the  lean  part  of  the  meat  with  lardons  (No.  1,  Fig.  52)  of  raw, 
salted  and  unsmoked  ham,  season  with  mignonette  and  allspice,  wrap  it  up  in  bards  of  bacon  and 
tie.  Garnish  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  braiziere  (Fig.  134),  with  sliced  onions  and  a  carrot,  a 
garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  and  moisten  with  one  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  one  gill  of  brandy, 
and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  stock  (No.  194a)  to  immerse  the  meat  to  three-quarters  of  its  height. 
Boil,  skim,  and  let  cook  for  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours,  turning  the  meat  over  and  basting  frequent- 
ly; then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  leave  it  in  the  stock  to  get  about  two-thirds  cold,  then  take 
it  out  and  lay  it  under  a  weight,  and  when  completely  cold  pare  it  nicely  into  the  shape  of  a  cutlet; 
scrape  the  surface  of  the  bone,  and  glaze  the  meat.  Set  it  on  a  dish,  and  garnish  around  with 
pear-shaped  carrots  and  turnips,  previously  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  broth  with  a  little  sugar, 
and  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Clarify  the  stock  in  the  braiziere  in  order  to  make  a  jelly  (as  explained  in' 
No.  103),  garnish  the  dish  with  this  jelly  chopped  up,  and  cut  triangular-shaped  croutons;  fasten 
into  the  meat  three  handsome  hatelets  of  vegetables  (No.  2526);  trim  the  bone  with  a  large  paper 
frill  (No.  10). 

(2432).  RIBS  OP  BEEF  IN  BELLEVUE  (Cotes  de  Boeuf  en  Bellevue). 

After  the  ribs  of  beef  are  prepared,  cook  them  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bristed  (No.  1329),  adding 
several  calves'  feet.  When  the  meat  is  well  cooked,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  strain  the  gravy,  and 
clarify  it.  Pare  the  meat  well,  and  glaze.  Have  a  jelly-coated  mold  sufficiently  large  to  contain 
this,  put  it  in  and  fill  the  entire  mold  with  jelly,  leaving  it  on  the  ice  till  ready  to  serve.  Unmold 
it  on  a  large  dish,  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly,  and  form  an  outside  border  of  oblongs  or 
triangles  of  jelly. 

(2433).  RUMP  OF  BEEF  A  LA  MODE  (Piece  de  Boeuf  ou  Pointe  de  Culotte  a  la  Mode). 

For  this  dish  use  a  piece  of  beef  prepared  as  for  a  la  mode  a  la  bourgeoise  (No.  1340).  When 
nearly  cold  put  it  into  an  oblong  mold  four  inches  deep  and  four  inches  wide  by  eight  inches  long; 
lay  the  mold  on  ice.  Range  some  balls  of  braised  carrots  half  an  inch  in  diameter  on  the  bottom 
of  the  mold.  Place  the  meat  on  top,  covering  with  stock;  harden  and  arrange  over  some  carrots; 
cover  with  partly  set  jelly,  and  when  this  is  cold  add  the  rest  of  the  meat,  and  when  entirely  cold 
cut  in  half-inch  thick  slices.  Range  on  a  long  dish  in  a  straight  line  and  garnish  around  with 
chopped  jelly. 

Another  way  is  to  have  the  meat  arranged  in  the  same  mold  as  above,  skim  all  the  fat  from 
the  beef  stock,  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add  to  it  as  much  strong  jelly  and  a  quarter  bottle- 
ful  of  white  wine;  boil  and  cool.  With  this  jelly  cover  the  slices  of  beef,  allow  to  get  cold,  unmold 


734  TFIE    EPICUREAN. 

and  dress  on  a  long  dish,  and  garnish  around  with  small  carrots,  cut  pear-shaped;  cook  and  let  fall 
to  a  glaze.  Then  season,  cool  and  roll  in  a  little  cold  jelly;  surround  these  with  slices  of  gherkin. 
Beef  a  la  mode  can  also  be  placed  in  a  mold  and  have  another  larger  one  decorated  with  carrots, 
turnips  and  gherkins;  protect  the  decoration  with  a  heavy  layer  of  jelly;  unmold  the  smallest  mold 
and  place  the  contents  in  the  largest  or  decorated  one;  fill  up  with  jelly,  let  get  cool,  then  unmold  by 
dipping  it  in  hot  water;  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly,  and  outside  of  it  arrange  triangle  or 
oblong  jelly  croutons. 


(2434).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BOUQUETIEEE  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Bouquetiere). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  fine  tenderloin,  the  same  as  described  in  1'Ambassade  (No.  1441),  only  omit- 
ting the  larding.  Let  it  get  cool,  keeping  it  very  straight,  and  when  thoroughly  cold  trim  it  to  a  nice 
shape,  and  pour  over  it  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594);  when  the  chaudfroid  is  firm  cover  it 
entirely  with  half -set  jelly.  Put  the  tenderloin  on  top  of  a  two-tier  foundation,  made  either  of  rice  or 
hominy,  the  bottom  one  being  two  inches  thick,  the  top  one  three-quarters  of  an  inch,  and  shaped 
symmetrically.  Fill  each  of  thirty  small  paper  cases  with  a  different  vegetable,  or  several  of  each 
kind — say  three  of  each — such  as  green  peas,  string  beans,  flageolets  or  kidney  beans,  Brussels 
sprouts,  beets,  cauliflower,  artichoke  bottoms,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  celery,  seasoned  and  mixed 
with  a  little  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  Prepare  fifteen  roses  cut  from  turnips,  and  fifteen  cut  from 
carrots,  each  one  inch  in  diameter,  blanched  and  cooked  separately  in  white  broth  (No.  194a).  Set  a 
rose  on  the  top  of  each  and  alternate  the  colors  when  decorating  the  upper  tier  with  fourteen  of 
these,  and  the  lower  one  with  sixteen;  force  some  chopped  jelly  through  a  cornet  or  a  bag  between 
each  case  around  the  bottom  and  the  edge,  and  outside  of  this  place  a  row  of  jelly  squares.  Gar- 
nish the  top  of  the  tenderloin  with  five  hatelets  of  vegetables  (No.  2526),  imitating  natural  flowers, 
the  center  one  representing  a  vase  decorated  with  small  flowers. 


(2435).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  EVERS  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Evers). 

This  tenderloin  is  to  be  prepared  and  cooked  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bienvenue  (No.  1445); 
when  done,  pare  it  nicely,  and  cut  it  into  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  lay  these  in  an  oblong 
mold  the  same  shape  as  the  tenderloin  but  smaller  than  the  one  to  be  decorated.  Keduce  the 
gravy,  add  some  aspic  jelly  (No.  103),  (test  the  consistency  of  this  by  putting  a  small  quantity  of  it 
in  a  mold  on  the  ice,  and  if  it  should  not  be  firm  enough  add  some  gelatine),  fill  in  the  mold  containing 
the  meat  with  this,  and  set  it  aside  on  ice  to  get  very  cold.  Decorate  the  largest  mold  with  pieces 
of  tongue,  pistachio  nuts,  and  white  of  egg;  cover  the  decoration  with  a  heavy  layer  of  jelly;  Tin- 
mold  the  one  containing  the  meat,  lay  it  in  the  center  of  the  decorated  one,  and  fill  it  in  with  jelly. 
Fill  the  entire  center  up  to  the  inside  of  the  dish  destined  for  the  tenderloin,  edge  with  jelly,  and 
when  very  firm  unmold  the  tenderloin  on  to  the  center  of  it.  Lay  on  each  end  half  a  nicely  carved 
rice  vase,  these  being  filled  with  imitations  of  small  truffles  made  of  mousselme  of  foies-gras,  and 
then  rolled  in  finely  chopped  truffles.  When  cold  dip  them  in  partly  cold  jelly,  and  arrange 
chopped  jelly  all  around,  also  oblong-shaped  jelly  croutons,  and  fasten  three  hatelets  decorated  in 
Bellevue  (No.  2526)  on  the  top  of  the  meat. 


(2436).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  LUCULLUS  (Filet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Lucullus). 

In  order  to  arrange  this  tenderloin  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  eight  molds  in  two  series  of 
four  each,  four  to  be  decorated  and  four  in  which  the  tenderloins  are  molded,  these  being  an  inch 
narrower  in  diameter  than  those  to  be  decorated.  Prepare  and  cook  the  tenderloin  as  explained 
in  FAmbassade  (No.  1441);  when  done,  cut  it  into  slices  and  reshape  the  meat  into  its  original  form 
and  fill  the  four  smallest  molds  with  it.  Reduce  the  stock  with  aspic  jelly  (No.  103),  (If  necessary  add 
some  isinglass  to  have  it  very  firm),  pour  over  the  meat  in  the  molds  and  set  on  ice  to  get  very  cold. 
Decorate  the  four  larger  molds  (see  Fig.  455)  intended  to  receive  the  tenderloin  after  they  are 
decorated;  cover  the  decoration  with  a  layer  of  thick  jelly,  unmold  the  smaller  ones,  put  their  con- 
tents inside  the  larger  ones  and  fill  up  with  very  firm  jelly.  After  the  jelly  is  very  firm  unrnold 
the  whole  on  a  cloth,  set  at  the  bottom  of  the  slope  on  each  side  of  the  bridge  a  strong  tin  square  three 
and  a  half  inches  in  width  and  three  inches  high,  having  rounded  corners  and  bent  in  the  center 


COLD    SERVICE. 


735 


to  form  a  right  angle;  these  squares  are  intended  to  keep  up  the  tenderloins  on  the  inclined  slope, 
and  are  most  necessary;  place  the  small  molds  at  the  ends,  and  set  around  the  piece  twenty-four 


FIG.  455. 

small  croustades  made  of  short  paste  (No.  135),  and  filled  with  goose  livers  taken  from  a  terrine  of 
foies-gras;  around  these  throw  some  chopped  jelly,  making  a  very  regular  border  of  croutons  of 
the  same.  Stick  two  hatelets,  one  at  each  end,  and  in  the  center  put  a  small  figure  holding  up  a 
cup  filled  with  glazed  truffles. 

(2437).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  NOAILLES  (Filet  de  Bceuf  k  la  Noailles). 

This  tenderloin  must  be  prepared  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443);  when  cold 
trim  it  nicely  and  glaze  it  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose.  Cover  it  with 
jelly  and  set  it  on  a  symmetrically  carved  rice  foundation,  garnishing  around  with  mushrooms,  truffles, 
scallops  of  foies-gras  and  chicken  mousselines  made  in  tartlet  molds.  The  mushrooms  are  to  be 
cooked  and  emptied  with  a  vegetable  scoop,  then  filled  with  a  foies-gras,  pressed  through  a  tammy 
and  glazed  in  a  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596).  The  chicken  mousselines  should  be  covered  with 
green  chaudfroid  (No.  595),  and  scallops  of  foies-gras  to  be  covered  with  a  brown  chaudfroid  (No. 
594),  the  truffles  glazed.  Arrange  this  garnishing  around  the  tenderloin  with  chopped  jelly  and 
croutons  of  jelly,  but  do  not  decorate  it  with  hatelets. 

(2438).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  A  LA  VIOLETTA  (Filet  de  Bceuf  k  la  Violetta). 
Have  the  tenderloin  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  a  la  Bayonnaise  (No.  1443),  and  when 
completely  cold  pare  it  to  the  needed  size  to  fit  in  an  oblong  mold,  previously  decorated  with  a 
variety  of  vegetables  blanched  and  cooked  in  broth  (No.  194a).  Cover  this  decoration  with  a  heavy 
coating  of  jelly;  cut  the  tenderloin  nine  inches  long  by  three  and  a  half  wide;  trim  it  nicely  and 
lay  it  in  the  center  of  the  mold  and  imbed  it  in  ice,  laying  it  in  very  straight.  Fill  up  the  mold 
with  cold  melted  jelly,  and  when  it  becomes  quite  cold  and  the  jelly  thoroughly  firm,  unmold  it  on 
an  oval  dish,  and  garnish  around  with  some  finely  chopped  jelly.  Select  eight  equal-sized,  large, 
ripe  and  very  firm  tomatoes;  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  to  peel  off  the  skins,  and  empty  the 
insides  through  an  inch  and  a  quarter  opening  on  the  stalk  end.  Shred  some  lettuce  leaves  and 
cooked  beet-root,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  thicken  the  whole  with  a 
little  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  mixing  in  with  it  some  whipped  cream;  fill  the  tomatoes  with 
this,  and  put  the  covers  on  again;  coat  them  over  with  partly  cold  jelly;  also  have  eight  cooked  arti- 
choke bottoms,  garnish  each  one  with  asparagus  tops  seasoned  and  thickened  with  jellied  mayon- 
naise (No.  613),  adding  to  it  some  whipped  cream.  Place  on  top  of  the  asparagus  a  small  black 
truffle  glazed  with  jelly;  garnish  around  the  inside  of  the  dish  with  chopped  jelly.  Lay  the  pre- 
pared garnishings  over,  and  intercalate  around  these  a  row  of  jelly  croutons  (Fig.  457). 


736  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2439).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF,  GRENADINS  ROOHAMBEAU  (Filet  de  Bcenf,  Grenadins 

Rochambeau). 

Prepare  twelve  tenderloins  into  half-heart  shapes,  each  one  weighing  four  ounces;  lard  ones 
third  of  them  with  larding  pork,  cut  as  represented  in  No.  3,  Fig.  52,  another  third  with  truffles, 
and  the  last  third  with  salted  unsmoked  tongue;  braise  them  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and 
glaze,  then  cool  and  pare.  Dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  round  dish,  alternating  the  various  lard- 
ings,  and  fill  the  center  with  some  foies-gras  scooped  from  a  terrine  with  a  spoon;  arrange  chopped 
jelly  around,  surrounded  by  a  border  of  jelly  croutons. 

(2440).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  OROUSTADES  MACEDOINE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Oroustades 

Macedoine). 

Prepare,  lard,  braise  and  glaze  a  fine  tenderloin  the  same  as  for  alaBienvenue  (No.  1445);  put 
it  aside  to  cool,  keeping  it  very  straight,  then  pare  and  glaze.  Set  it  on  a  small  rice  foundation 
two  and  a  half  inches  high  and  symmetrically  carved  (Fig.  9a).  Garnish  around  with  small  croustades 
made  ot  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  fill  these  croustades  with  a  small  vegetable  macedoine  (No. 
2650);  season  well  and  thicken  with  a  ravigote  mayonnaise  (No.  612);  sprinkle  over  some  very  finely 
chopped  chervil,  and  garnish  around  the  croustades  with  a  row  of  chopped  jelly.  Decorate  the  top 
of  the  tenderloin  with  some  Bellevue  hatelets  (No.  2526). 


(2441).  TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGETABLES,  MAYONNAISE  (Filet  de  Boeuf  aux 

Legumes,  Mayonnaise). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  tenderloin  the  same  as  for  a  la  Chanzy  (No.  1447),  keeping  it  quite  rare; 
glaze  it  over  several  times  and  leave  till  cold.  The  drawing  that  accompanies  this  dish  will  show 
the  way  to  prepare  the  meat  for  a  supper,  or  for  serving  at  a  small  sideboard  supper.  First  take 
an  oval-shaped  drum,  three  inches  high  and  hollow  in  the  center,  fasten  it  on  an  oval  board  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  an  inch  wider  than  the  outlines  of  the  drum;  on  top  of  this  drum  lay 
an  oval  wooden  socle  an  inch  and  a  half  high  and  slightly  curved  in  the  center,  it  being  two  inches 
narrower  all  around  than  the  drum  itself,  thus  forming  a  shelf.  Decorate  all  around  the  drum 
with  small  sticks  of  vegetables,  such  as  carrots  and  turnips,  cut  out  with  a  tin  tube  five-six- 


FIG.  456. 

teenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  blanched  separately  in  salted  water;  lay  them  in  regular  rows 
one  over  the  other  formed  of  the  two  distinct  colors,  being  careful  to  dip  each  piece  in  half-set  jelly 
to  make  it  adhere  to  the  form;  when  the  drum  is  all  decorated,  glide  it  on  to  a  long  dish,  the  bottom 
being  filled  with  jelly;  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  at  forty-two  degrees  temperature.  Pare  and  cut  up 
the  tenderloin  in  crosswise  slices,  each  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  dress  them  on  the  second  curved- 
shape  form,  glaze  and  cover  over  with  jelly.  Have  a  garnishing  of  Brussels  sprouts,  celery  roots, 
ana  cucumbers,  all  of  uniform  size,  also  some  green  peas,  all  ot  these  to  be  dressed  in  small  clusters, 
alternating  the  various  colors;  these  must  be  placed  on  the  shelf  between  the  drum  and  the  curve; 
put  chopped  jelly  in  the  dish  around  the  piece.  Serve  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606)  at  the  same  time. 


(2442).  BORDERS  OF  DIFFERENT  SHAPED  JELLY  CROUTONS  (Bordures  de  Diff&entes  Formes  en 

Croutons  de  Gele'e). 

Procure  very  firm  and  very  clear  jelly  (No.  123)  cooled  on  tin  plates  two  inches  high;  unmold  when 
very  cold  on  wet  napkins  having  all  the  moisture  squeezed  out,  then  spread  on  the  table  without 


COLD    SERVICE. 


731 


any  creases  whatever.     The  jelly  can  be  cut  into  many  shapes  (see  Figs.  457  to  465,  jelly  crouton*, 
for  borders).     Lay  them  on  the  edge  of  the  inside  of  the  basin  with  regularity.     They  must  oe 


FIG.  457. 


FIG.  458. 


FIG.  459. 


FIG.  460. 


FIG.  461. 


FIG.  462. 


FIG.  463. 


FIG.  464. 


FIG.  465. 

cut  very  evenly.  The  effect  they  produce  can  easily  be  seen  on  the  different  designs  the  plates 
offer.  Round  croutons  are  cut  with  a  round  pastry  cutter  that  has  been  vvell  heated  in  hot 
water.  The  thickness  of  the  crouton  should  be  in  proportion  to  its  diameter. 


(2443),  VEGETABLE  BORDERS  (Bordures  de  Legumes), 

Boil  and  cook  in  salted  water  some  carrots,  turnips,  green  peas  and  whole  string  beans;  keep 
them  all  slightly  firm.  Cut  the  carrots  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  slices,  according  to  the  size  of  the  border;  lay  these  slices  on  a  napkin  to  dry,  then  out  half- 


FIG.  466. 


FIG.  46". 


FIG.  468. 


rings  from  them  with  a  column  tube  and  coat  them  with  half-set  jelly.  Fasten  them  on  by  dipping 
into  half-set  jelly,  and  then  placing  them  tastefully  on  the  edge  of  the  basin  of  a  very  cold  disb.; 
range  the  string  beans  in  lozenge  form  between  the  half-rings  at  the  base  and  the  green  peas  on 
the  center  of  the  half-rings  on  top. 


738 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(2444).  BUTTER  BOBDEKS  (Bordures  en  Beurre). 

These  borders  are  not  very  practical;  they  can  only  be  made  when  the  temperature  is  very  low 
and  are  only  mentioned  in  case  there  be  no  other  resource  available;  yet  they  can  be  of  great  utility. 
The  butter  should  be  well  kneaded  to  remove  all  foreign  matter  that  it  might  contain;  it  should  be 


FIG.  469. 

colored  green  or  red;  spread  it  out  on  sheets  of  paper  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  then  leave 
to  cool;  invert  these  on  wet  napkins,  and  remove  the  paper;  cut  it  into  rounds,  rings,  or  triangles. 
Dress  them  on  the  border  of  a  dish,  alternating  the  colors;  the  dish  must  be  kept  in  the  refrig- 
erator until  required. 

(2445).  MOLDED  JELLY  BORDER  (Bordure  de  GelSe  Moul^e). 

Incrust  a  metal  border  mold,  either  of  tinned  copper  or  tin,  on  ice;  decorate  it  with  fanciful 
cuts,  either  of  truffles,  tongue,  egg-white,  pistachio  nuts  or  vegetables,  done  by  dipping  them  in  half- 


FIG.  470. 

set  jelly.  When  the  mold  is  decorated,  coat  this  decoration  with  a  layer  of  jelly,  done  by  rolling 
the  jelly  in  the  mold  on  the  decoration  until  there  is  a  layer  sufficiently  thick  to  protect  it;  fill 
up  with  jelly.  When  sufficiently  firm  unmold  the  border  on  a  dish,  having  the  basin  filled  with 
very  firm  jelly.  The  border  can  be  filled  with  foies-gras,  chaudfroid,  etc. 

(2446).  LAMBS'  BRAINS  WITH  MAYONNAISE  (Oervelles  d'Agneau  a  la  Mayonnaise). 
Steep  six  lambs'  brains  in  fresh  water  for  half  an  hour;  skin  them  by  lifting  off  the  thin  cuti- 
cle enveloping  them,  also  the  sanguineous  fibers,  and  return  them  to  fresh  water  to  soak  for  two 
hours  more.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover,  adding  salt  and 
vinegar,  and  let  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  When  cold  and  drained,  dress  in  a  circle,  placing 
between  every  brain  a  crouton  of  red  lambs'  tongue  cut  to  resemble  cocks'-combs;  decorate  all 
around  with  garnishing  of  eggs  (No.  2513),  gherkins  and  beets;  fill  the  center  of  the  circle  with 
some  green  mayonnaise  with  fine  herbs  (No.  612),  and  surround  with  pretty  clear  jelly  croutons. 

(2447).  OASES  OF  LOBSTER  A  LA  RAVIGOTE-SMALL  (Petites  Oaisses  de  Homard  a  la 

Ravigote). 

Place  nine  or  twelve  small  china  cases  two  inches  in  diameter  on  ice  to  become  thoroughly 
cold.     Split  across  in  two  the  meats  taken  from  six  cooked  lobster  claws,  and  cut  these  up  into 


FIG.  471. 


small  rounds,  using  a  vegetable  cutter  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter  for  the  purpose,  and 
lay  them  in  a  small-sized  vessel  with  half  as  many  rounds  of  truffles  cut  the  same  size  as  the  lobster 


COLD    SERVICE. 


739 


and  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  gherkins  cut  in  slices;  season  with  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar  and  let  stand  for  fifteen  minutes;  drain  off  the  seasoning;  fill  the  cases  with  the 
preparation  mixed  with  mayonnaise  printaniere,  and  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  mayonnaise 
(No.  606),  finished  with  tarragon  vinegar;  smooth  the  jelly  sauce  and  dress  the  cases  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

(2448).  OASES  OF  SNIPE  WITH  JELLY-SMALL  (Petites  Caisses  de  Be"cassines  &  la  Gelfe). 

This  entree  should  be  served  on  a  dish  having  its  bottom  covered  with  cooked  paste  (No.  131) 
and  the  outer  edge  decorated  with  an  open-work  border  of  the  same;  and  in  the  center  a  cone- 
shaped  support,  first  covered  with  paper  then  with  chopped  jelly.  This  support  must  have  a  hole 
through  the  top  in  order  to  sustain  a  hatelet.  Bone  six  large  snipe,  stuff  them  with  chopped  force- 
meat (No.  77);  to  this  add  the  chopped  entrails  of  the  bird  sauted  in  butter  and  sew  them  up  to  keep 
the  stuffing  in.  Maintain  them  in  shape  with  a  band  of  buttered  paper.  Range  them  in  a  narrow 
sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork  and  aromatic  herbs,  moisten  with  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine  and 
reduce  on  a  brisk  fire;  then  moisten  to  about  their  height  with  stock  (No.  194a) ;  season  and  mask  over 


FIG  472. 

with  fat  pork.  Boil  the  liquid  for  five  minutes  and  then  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  fire,  or  to 
a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  half  an  hour,  then  let  cool  off  in  their  own  stock.  Unwrap  the  snipe,  pare 
and  split  them  lengthwise  in  two,  shape  them  properly  to  fit  the  half -heart  paper  cases  and  range 
the  halved  birds  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  set  them  aside  to  cool  fora  quarter  of  an  hour.  Now 
take  up  each  half  snipe,  one  by  one,  and  dip  them  in  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  thickened 
when  required  to  have  it  quite  firm;  return  them  to  the  sheet  and  remove  them  separately 
when  hard,  to  suppress  any  surplus  sauce;  brush  them  over  lightly  with  jelly  and  lay  each  half  in  a 
half -heart -shaped  case  having  its  bottom  covered  with  chopped  jelly.  Range  the  cases  around  the 
support,  the  point  upward,  leaning  them  against  the  border;  insert  a  garnished  hatelet  into  the  top 
of  the  support.  Surround  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  chain  of  triangle  jelly  croutons. 

(2449).  OASES  OP  THKUSHES  WITH  JELLY-SMALL  (Petites  Oaisses  de  Grives  k  la  Gel&X 
For  this  entree  have  a  border  of  jelly  the  center  being  filled  with  a  round  piece  of  wood  of  the. 
same  diameter  and  height  as  the  border  and  covered  with  white  paper.  Bone  eight  thrushes, 
spread  them  out  on  the  table  and  season;  fill  them  with  a  fine  game  forcemeat  (No.  91), 
some  foies-gras  and  truffles  made  into  balls.  Cover  them  with  a  band  of  paper  to  hold  them  in 
a  round  shape,  then  range  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  small  sautoir  covered  with  fat  pork,  putting 


FIG.  473. 


them  quite  close  to  one  another;  salt  over  and  moisten  to  nearly  their  height  with  a  good  un- 
skimmed  stock  (No.  194a),  and  cover  over  with  more  fat  pork;  boil  up  the  liquid,  then  withdraw  the 
saucepan  and  put  on  the  lid.  Cook  the  boned  birds  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven;  they 
should  but  simmer,  as  they  only  require  to  be  poached,  and  let  cool  off  in  this  same  liquid.  Ua- 


740  THE    EPICUREAN. 

wrap,  pare,  cover  by  dipping  each  one  singly  into  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  thickened  on 
ice;  after  this  sauce  is  cold,  pare  the  birds  and  place  them  in  round  porcelain  cases;  dress  these 
on  the  border.  Garnish  around  the  cases  with  jelly  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares. 

(2450).  CELESTINES  OF  PULLET  A  LA  TALLEYRAND  (Celestines  de  Poularde  a  la  Talleyrand). 
Cut  up  into  eighth  of  an  inch  squares  a  pound  of  braised  and  cold  white  pullet  meat,  free  of  fat 
and  bones,  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  peeled  truffles  cut  in  the  same  sized  squares.  With  the  leg 
meats  from  whi'3h  the  skin,  bones  and  fat  have  been  removed,  prepare  a  puree  and  dilute  it  with  half  a 
pint  of  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594);  press  through  a  tammy  into  a  tin  bowl  and  thicken  the  preparation 
on  ice,  adding  to  it  the  truffle  and  chicken  salpicon.  Cut  some  slices  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  these  into  rounds  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter;  cover 
one  of  the  sides  with  the  preparation,  having  it  well  rounded  on  top,  smooth  with  a  knife  and  let 
cool  off  on  ice,  then  mask  over  with  brown  chaudfroid.  Decorate  the  surfaces  of  these  with  truffles, 
cover  with  half-set  jelly  and  dress  them  in  a  circle.  Cut  some  medium-sized  apples  in  two,  peel 
and  core,  then  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet  and  sprinkle  over  with  powdered  sugar,  and  let 
cook  for  a  few  moments  in  a  hot  oven.  When  done  and  cold,  use  these  apples  to  fill  in  the  center 
of  the  circle;  garnish  around  the  celestines  with  chopped  jelly  and  outside  of  this  lay  evenly  cut 
jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2451).  CHAUDFKOID  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  CLARA  MORRIS   (Ohaudfroid  de  Poulet  a  la  Clara 

Morris). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  six  medium  two-pound  chickens;  remove  the  skin  and  cuticle,  pare  them 
carefully  into  half-hearts;  salt  over  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  in  such  a  way  that  all  the 
pointed  ends  are  in  the  center;  cover  with  clarified  butter  and  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon; 
place  them  on  the  fire  to  fry  without  coloring,  then  drain  and  put  them  under  a  weight  to  press 
lightly;  pare  them  again  so  that  they  are  all  the  same  shape.  Bone  the  second  joints,  keeping  on  half 
of  the  drumstick  bones,  remove  the  sinews  and  season  the  meats  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  stuff 
the  inside  with  a  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which  mix  a  quarter  as  much  foies-gras  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  and  the  same  quantity  of  truffles,  tongue  and  pistachios  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch 
squares.  Enclose  the  dressing  well  and  sew  the  skin  together  to  envelop  it  completely,  then  place 
these  legs  in  a  sautoir  covered  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  moisten  with  mirepoix  and  white  wine 
stock  (No.  419),  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  cook  them  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  drain 
off  and  place  them  under  a  weight  to  get  cold,  then  cover  them  with  either  a  white  or  brown  chaud- 
froid sauce  (No.  594).  Prepare  a  garnishing  composed  of  cooked  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118), 
carrot  balls  blanched  and  cooked  in  white  broth  (No.  194a),  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  oil, 
vinegar  and  fine  herbs,  and  some  glazed  truffle  balls.  Dress  the  chaudfroid  around  a  bread 
support  covered  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583),  and  fill  in  the  intersections  with  the  garnishing; 
around  lay  chopped  jelly  and  small  cases  filled  with  asparagus  tops  covered  with  green  mayonnaise 
with  fine  herbs  (No.  612).  On  the  top  set  a  round  piece  of  glazed  truffle,  and  around  the  cases  a 
chain  of  lozenge-shaped  jelly  croutons. 

(2452).  OHAUDFROID  OF  DOE  BIRD,  PLOVERS,  BUSTARDS  OR  WOODCOCK  WITH  FUMET 
(Ohaudfroid  de  Oourlis,  Pluviers,  Vanneaux  ou  Becasses  au  Fumet). 

Pick,  singe  and  clean  nicely  eight  doe  birds;  draw  and  truss  them  for  roasting  like  clovers. 
(No.  2119);  put  them  to  roast,  remove,  and  when  cold  detach  the  breasts,  suppress  the  skin  and 
cut  each  breast  in  three  pieces — one  breastbone  and  the  two  wings.  Break  up  the  fragments  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  minced  shallots  and  carrots,  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  moisten  with 
white  wine,  stock  (No.  194a),  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  boil,  skim  and  simmer  for  thirty 
minutes,  then  strain;  remove  all  the  fat  and  reduce  to  half-glaze,  adding  jelly;  pour  this  sauce  into 
a  tin  basin  and  leave  to  cool  on  ice  while  stirring  unceasingly  until  it  becomes  the  proper  con- 
sistency. Dip  each  one  of  the  pieces  of  bird  into  this  chaudfroid  to  cover  with  a  thick  layer,  and 
when  thoroughly  cold  brush  them  over  with  half-set  jelly.  Decorate  a  border  mold  with  fanci- 
ful cuts  of  truffles  and  egg-whites,  coat  it  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly,  and  fill  with  a  well-seasoned 
macedoine  (No.  2650)  garnishing  dressed  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  unmold  it  as  soon  as  it 
is  cold,  and  fill  the  center  with  a  pad  of  rice;  on  this  have  a  sloping  pyramid  of  rice;  cover  this 
over  with  thick  jelly  forced  through  a  pocket.  Dress  the  chaudfroids,  leaning  them  against  the 
pyramid  and  holding  them  up  with  sticky  jelly  forced  through  a  cornet;  on  top  insert  a  Bellevue 
hatelet  (No.  2526)  and  place  fine  ielly  croutons  around  the  border;  push  chopped  jelly  into  all  the 
intersections  between  the  chaudfroids.  Proceed  the  same  for  plovers,  woodcock  or  bustards. 


COLD    SERVICE.  741 

(2453).  OHAUDFROID  OP  YOUNG-  GUINEA  FOWLS  (Chaudfroid  de  Jeunes  Pintades). 
In  order  to  dress  this  entrdie  solidly  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  unmold  a  border  of  verj 
smooth  and  hard  jelly  on  a  dish  decorated  at  the  bottom  with  a  few  fanciful  cuts  of  truffle  and 
egg-whites;  coat  over  the  mold  and  fill  the  inside  of  this  border  with  a  foundation  made  of  wood 
or  stearine  covered  over  with  white  paper  and  having  fastened  on  to  its  center  a  column-shaped 
wooden  support;  enlarge  this  especially  toward  the  bottom  with  thick  chopped-up  jelly  and  keep 
the  dish  on  ice.  Truss  three  small,  clean  young  guinea  fowls;  cook  them  in  the  pan,  keeping  them 


FIG.  474. 

quite  rare  and  let  them  get  partly  cold  in  their  own  stock,  then  drain  them  off  and  carve  in  five 
pieces;  remove  the  upper  breastbones  and  the  fillets,  and  lay  these  under  a  light  weight  till  cold. 
Suppress  also  the  thick  second  joint  bone,  leaving  on  the  drumstick  only;  cut  this  much  shorter, 
and  place  the  legs  under  a  weight  to  cool.  Pare  the  pieces  nicely,  suppressing  all  the  skin;  dip 
them  singly  into  a  blond  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  lifting  them  out  with  a  large  fork,  and  range 
them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet,  some  distance  apart  from  each  other  so  as  to  harden  the  sauce. 
Now  take  them  off  this  sheet  to  cut  away  the  surplus  of  sauce  and  dress  them  pyramidically 
against  the  support  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  the  legs  underneath  and  the  fillets  and  upper  breast 
parts  on  top,  being  careful  that  this  pyramid  does  not  incline  toward  the  jelly  but  leans  against 
the  support,  which  must  also  be  covered  with  paper.  Mask  the  pieces  of  chicken  with  half-set 
jelly  laid  on  with  a  brush,  and  keep  the  dish  on  ice  for  twenty  minutes  before  serving. 

(2454).  OHAUDFKOID  OF  LAKES  (Ohaudfroid  de  Mauviettes). 

Bone  two  dozen  clean  larks;  spread  them  open  on  the  table  and  season;  prepare  a  boned 
game  forcemeat  (No.  66),  season  highly  and  add  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  liver  baking  forcemeat 
(No.  64),  and  some  of  the  fried  lark  intestines,  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw,  chopped  truffles.  Use 
this  forcemeat  for  filling  the  birds,  and  roll  them  up  into  balls,  sew  them  up  with  coarse  thread, 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  very  little  good,  reduced  stock,  and  covered  over  with  fat 
pork;  remove  from  the  fire  and  cool  them  off  in  their  own  stock,  then  drain,  unwrap,  and 
trim  each  one  neatly,  and  rounded.  Take  them  up  one  by  one,  and  dip  them  in  a  brown  chaudfroid 
(No.  594),  thickened  properly  on  ice;  lay  them  at  once  on  a  grate,  and'let  the  sauce  harden  in  the 
ice-box.  Pare  the  larks  from  any  excess  of  sauce,  cover  with  a  light  layer  of  jelly  applied  with  a 
brush,  and  when  this  has  become  quite  cold,  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  cold  dish,  and 
surround  with  more  jelly. 

(2455).  OHAUDFEOID  OF  PARTKIDGES  A  LA  BEATRICE  (Ohaudfroid  de  Perdeaux  &  la  Beatrice). 
Have  four  partridges  picked,  singed,  drawn,  and  well  cleaned;  remove  the  legs,  bone,  suppress 
the  sinews  and  stuff  them  with  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91)  and  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385); 
braise  and  set  them  under  a  weight.  Raise  the  fillets,  and  saute  them  in  butter  without  coloring; 
lay  them  under  a  weight  also,  then  pare  them  as  well  as  the  legs  into  half-hearts,  and  cover  both 
with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594)  prepared  with  game  fumet  (No.  397)  extracted  from  the  car- 
casses; repeat  this  operation  until  the  coating  of  chaudfroid  be  of  a  sufficient  thickness,  then 
leave  to  cool,  and  cover  over  with  another  layer  of  half-set  jelly.  Dress  all  the  pieces  on  an 
empty  swan  (No.  3597),  with  an  opening  on  the  top  or  back  part  of  the  swan,  and  surround 
with  small  "  pains"  prepared  as  follows:  Decorate  some  mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138)  with 
fanciful  cuts,  either  of  truffles,  tongue,  or  pistachios  dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  coat  them  rather 
thickly  with  jelly,  and  fill  with  a  game  "pain  "  preparation  made  with  game  puree  of  the  fillets 
and  parings  mixed  with  chaudfroid,  bechamel  (No.  593),  and  well  drained,  whipped  cream;  add  a 
small  salpicon  of  truffles  and  tongue  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  when  the  molds 
are  thoroughly  cold,  invert  and  range  them  around  the  swan;  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  a 
border  of  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 


742  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2456).   CHATTDFKOID  OP  HLLETS  OP  PHEASANTS  (Chaudfroid  de  Pilets  de  Faisans), 

This  entree  is  suitable  to  be  served  at  a  dinner  or  a  buffet.  It  is  dressed  on  a  socle  composed 
of  a  wooden  base,  having  in  its  center  a  support  made  in  tiers,  the  whole  being  covered  with  white 
paper;  on  the  very  top  of  this  there  should  be  a  hole  intended  to  receive  a  hatelet.  The  platform 
of  this  support  is  ornamented  with  a  small  overhanging  border  made  of  modeling  fat  or  card- 
board. Detach  the  fillets  from  the  breasts  of  three  large,  cooked  and  cold  pheasants,  leaving  the 
jpper  part  of  the  breast — the  part  against  the  fillet  adhering  to  the  frame — then  cut  them  up  and 
remove,  first  the  skin  and  bones,  then  divide  each  one  into  parts  on  their  length,  and  also  divide 
each  of  the  fillets  in  three,  pare  them  in  equal  shapes  and  sizes  and  cut  them  square  on  one  end  so 
as  later  to  be  able  to  dress  them  standing  upright.  Pound  all  the  parings  of  the  breast  meats  with 
as  much  cooked  foies-gras,  then  rub  through  a  sieve,  season  this  pulp  and  set  it  in  a  thin  iron 
vessel  to  dilute  with  two  gills  of  melted  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  four  to  five  gills  of  brown  chaud- 
froid  (No.  594)  in  such  a  manner  that  when  the  preparation  becomes  cold  it  acquires  a  certain 
firm  consistency.  After  it  is  smooth  spread  it  on  a  baking  sheet  in  even,  thin  layers,  cover  them 
very  lightly  with  cold  jelly,  using  a  brush,  and  range  on  top  the  eighteen  fillets  in  a  straight  line, 


FIG.  475. 

one  beside  the  other,  pressing  them  down  lightly;  now  cover  them  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  same 
preparation  and  let  get  thoroughly  cold  on  ice.  After  removing  it,  cut  with  the  tip  of  a  small 
knife  dipped  in  hot  water,  following  the  outlines  of  the  fillets  most  minutely,  then  heat  the  bot- 
tom of  the  sheet  with  a  wet  cloth  so  as  to  be  able  to  detach  the  cut-out  pieces.  Take  them  up  one 
by  one  to  smooth  and  stand  them  upright  on  another  sheet  on  their  square  ends;  let  them  get  cold 
on  ice  once  more  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Remove  the  fillets  one  by  one  and  dip  them  into  a  fine 
flowing  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  in  such  a  way  that  their  size  does  not  increase  much,  then 
return  them  to  the  same  sheet  just  as  they  were  before,  (meaning  upright),  and  let  the  sauce  harden. 
With  the  same  preparation  cover  the  upper  breast  pieces,  being  careful  that  they  assume  their 
original  size  and  shape,  and  smooth  the  surfaces  nicely.  When  thoroughly  hard  dip  these  pieces 
into  the  same  chaudfroid  sauce  to  cover  lightly  and  not  allowing  them  to  become  misshapen.  After 
the  chaudfroid  sauce  is  quite  hard,  take  the  fillets  one  by  one  and  cut  away  the  excess  of  sauce, 
then  dress  them  at  once  upright  on  the  lower  tier,  or  more  properly  speaking  on  the  wooden 
foundation  (therefore  around  the  central  support);  now  dress  the  upper  breast  parts,  also  upright 
on  the  upper  tier,  leaning  them  against  the  support,  and  brush  over  lightly  with  a  brush  dipped 
in  jelly  both  fillets  and  the  others;  surround  the  base  with  a  cord  of  jelly  pushed  through  a 
cornet  so  as  to  maintain  the  meats  level,  and  also  surround  this  base  with  chopped  jelly,  laying 
over  a  chain  of  small  paper  cases  filled  with  truffles  masked  in  chaudfroid.  On  the  extreme  top  of 
the  support  stick  a  small  hatelet  into  the  hole  made  for  the  purpose.  Keep  the  entree  cold  till 
needed. 

(2457).  OHAUDFBOID  OF  PEAIEIE  HEN— GROUSE  (Ohaudfroid  de  Poule  de  Prairie— Te~tras), 

Prepare  a  fine  garnishing  composed  of  large  cooked  cocks'-combs,  poached  chicken  kidneys, 
round  truffles  and  mushroom  heads;  glaze  the  truffles  with  a  thin  layer  of  brown  chaudfroid  sauce 
(No.  594),  the  combs  and  kidneys  remaining  in  their  natural  state  glazed  with  half-set  jelly.  Cut 
the  breasts  of  two  cold  roast  pheasants  into  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  suppressing  the  skin; 


COLD    SERVICE.  743 

have  them  well  pared  and  of  uniform  size,  dip  each  one  separately  in  brown  chaudfroid,  and  range 
them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet,  keeping  them  somewhat  apart;  let  the  sauce  harden  on  ice.  In- 
crust  a  large  dome-shaped  mold  in  ice,  coat  it  over  with  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  jelly, 
and  when  this  is  set  dress  on  to  the  bottom  and  around  the  mold  the  prettiest  pieces,  intermin- 
gling them  with  the  garnishings;  fill  up  the  mold  with  some  half-set  jelly.  One  hour  after  dip 
the  mold  in  hot  water,  wipe  dry  and  turn  the  chaudfroid  over  on  a  dish  foundation  covered  with 
white  paper;  surround  with  small  crimped  paper  cases,  each  one  containing  a  small  truffle  dipped 
in  brown  chaudfroid.  Fasten  one  garnished  hatelet  in  the  center  of  the  dome,  lay  chopped  jelly 
all  around,  and  jelly  croutons  around  this, 

(2458),  OHAUDFROID  OP  PULLET,  PLAIN  (Ohaudfroid  de  Poularde,  Simple). 

Draw,  clean  arid  truss  two  pullets  of  two  pounds  each  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  and  cover  with  stock  (No.  194a),  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf;  boil,  skim  and  cook  slowly  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  done,  then  transfer  them  to  a 
vessel  and  pour  the  stock  over;  let  get  partly  cold  and  drain  off  to  cut  into  pieces,  first  remov- 
ing the  two  legs  and  from  them  suppressing  the  second  joint  bones,  retaining  only  the  drum- 
stick bones  to  answer  for  holding  the  frill;  put  these  legs  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight,  then 
begin  to  cut  the  fillets  from  the  breast,  leaving  on  a  piece  of  the  bone  with  the  breast  meat;  pare 
the  whole  well  free  of  all  skin  and  sinews;  dip  all  the  pieces  into  a  partly  cold  white  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  596),  lifting  them  out  with  a  large  fork  to  range  on  top  of  a  baking  sheet,  or  else  a 
heavy  sheet  of  tin,  one  beside  the  other  but  without  touching;  a  grate  may  be  used.  Set  on  ice 
to  harden  the  sauce,  then  remove  each  piece  and  pare,  trimming  off  the  surplus  chaudfroid  sauce 
and  giving  them  a  handsome  shape.  Dress  in  a  pyramid  and  cover  the  chaudfroid  with  half-set 
jelly  applied  with  a  brush;  keep  on  ice  for  twenty  minutes,  then  trim  the  pinion  bones  and  drum- 
sticks with  fancy  paper  frills  (No.  10)  and  decorate  the  dish  and  chickens  with  chopped  jelly  and 
jelly  croutons. 

(2459).  OHAUDFROID  OF  QUAILS  A  LA  BAUDY  (Ohaudfroid  de  Cailles  a  la  Bandy). 

This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  white  paper,  and  bordered  on  the 
outside  edge  with  small  beads  of  butter  forced  through  a  cornet.  It  has  a  paper-covered  support  in 
the  center  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter  and  about  the  same  height  as  the  quails.  Singe  and  bone 
eight  fresh  quails,  leaving  on  the  thighs,  season  the  insides  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  a  layer  of 
fine  galantine  forcemeat  (No.  66),  mingled  with  f oies-gras  and  truffles  cut  in  small  dice,  also  a  piece  of 


FIG.  476. 

raw  truffle  in  each;  all  of  these  to  be  properly  seasoned;  cover  over  with  another  layer  of  the  force- 
meat and  bring  the  two  sides  together  so  that  the  quails  retain  their  original  shape,  then  sew  them 
up.  Truss  the  thighs,  and  tie  each  bird  up  in  a  separate  piece  of  muslin.  Range  the  quails  in  a 
deep  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork,  moisten  to  their  height  with  a  good  stock  (No.  194a)  and  boil 
up  the  liquid,  then  withdraw  it  to  a  slower  fire  and  cook  the  quails  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
while  covered,  and  let  them  get  partly  cold  in  their  stock.  Drain,  unwrap,  and  tie  them  up 
tighter  in  the  same  cloths  to  keep  them  in  shape,  and  when  quite  cold  cut  each  one  lengthwise 
in  two-,  fasten  the  two  halves  together  with  a  small  wooden  skewer,  and  cover  the  quails  with 
a  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596).  When  the  sauce  becomes  quite  cold,  stick  one  of  the  reserved 
legs  in  each  half  bird,  and  withdraw  the  skewer.  Dress  these  boned  quails  almost  upright  on 
the  foundation  that  is  on  the  dish,  leaning  them  against  the  support;  garnish  the  center  of  this 
with  chopped  jelly,  and  surround  the  base  of  the  bottom  with  small  crimped  paper  cases  filled  with 
glazed  truffles. 


744  TME    EPICUREAN. 

(2460).  OHAUDFROID  OF  FILLETS  OF  REDHEAD  DUCK  AND  VENISON  (Chaudfroid  de  Filets 

de  Canard  Tete  Rouge  et  de  Venaison). 

Raise  the  fillets  from  five  redhead  ducks,  without  the  wings  or  minions;  pare  them  into  half- 
hearts;  season  and  saute  iti  clarified  butter,  keeping  them  rare;  then  drain  and  cool  off  under  a 
light  weight  between  two  pieces  of  buttered  paper;  remove  the  skin,  pare  them  again  to  have  all 
alike,  and  dip  in  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  reduced  with  game  fumet  (No.  397),  properly 
thickened  on  ice;  range  them  at  some  distance  apart  on  a  baking  sheet  to  harden  the  sauce;  deco- 
rate with  ornaments  of  truffles  dipped  in  jelly,  and  coat  the  whole  in  half-set  jelly.  Cut  ten  pieces 
of  very  red  beef  tongue,  not  too  thick,  but  of  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  fillets;  lay  a  duck  fillet 
on  each  piece  of  tongue,  making  it  adhere,  and  let  get  cold.  Dress  these  upright  against  a  vegeta- 
ble salad  cut  in  small  dice,  and  thickened  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  then  molded  in  a 
small  pyramidical  mold.  Surround  the  bottom  with  a  thick  rope  of  jelly  pushed  through  a  pocket. 
On  the  top  of  the  pyramid  place  a  cluster  of  jelly  cut  in  small  squares. 

Chaudfroid  of.  Venison. — Cut  a  fillet  of  venison  into  slices;  dip  them  in  a  brown  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  594)  properly  thickened  on  ice,  then  lay  to  cool  on  a  baking  sheet;  when  cold,  pare  and 
dress  in  a  circle;  glaze  over  with  jelly,  fill  the  center  with  chopped  jelly,  and  outside  with  a  border 
^f  jelly  croutons. 

(2461).  OHAUDFROID  OF  SNIPE  IN  PYRAMID  (Chaudfroid  de  B^cassines  en  Buisson). 

Dress  this  entree  on  a  wooden  dish  bottom,  composed  of  three  shelves,  all  to  be  covered  with 
white  paper.  Bone  fifteen  to  eighteen  small  snipe,  keeping  the  heads  and  a  part  of  the  intestines 
aside,  the  latter  to  be  cooked  in  melted  butter  and  pressed  through  a  sieve.  Scald  the  heads, 
pick  out  the  eyes,  replace  them  with  a  little  forcemeat  and  a  round  of  truffle  to  imitate  the  original; 
place  in  the  oven  to  poach  the  forcemeat.  Spread  the  snipe  out  on  the  table,  season  and  cover 
with  a  layer  of  game  galantine  forcemeat  (No.  66).  Put  in  the  center  of  each  one  a  piece  of  raw 
foies-gras  and  a  piece  of  cooked  truffle,  cover  with  another  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  then  roll  the 
boned  snipe  into  ball  shapes.  Cover  each  one  with  a  separate  piece  of  buttered  paper  and  range  them 


FIG.  477. 

in  a  narrow  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork;  moisten  to  their  height  with  good  stock  (No.  194a)and  cover 
with  more  of  the  pork,  then  put  on  the  lid  and  let  cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  minutes;  leave  them 
to  cool  in  their  own  stock.  Unwrap  the  snipe,  pare  and  shape  them  properly  and  fill  with  foies-gras 
any  crevices  that  may  have  been  caused  by  the  cooking.  Pare  them  all  alike  and  of  a  nice  shape. 
Range  them  at  once  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  put  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
take  them  up  one  by  one  and  dip  them  in  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  thickened  on  ice  so 
that  they  are  entirely  covered,  and  return  them  immediately  to  the  sheet  to  drain  off  the  sauce, 
and  keep  cold  for  another  half  hour,  then  pare  them  once  more  of  any  surplus  of  sauce.  At  the 
last  moment  force  some  sticky  chopped  jelly  through  a  pocket  between  the  shelves,  dress  the  snipe 
over,  letting  them  form  into  a  pyramid,  and  between  each  one  dress  one  of  the  heads,  and  glaze 
it  over  with  a  brush.  Push  a  thick  rope  of  chopped  jelly  around  the  pyramid  on  the  bottom  of  the 
dish  and  surround  this  with  fine  croutons.  Cover  the  snipe  lightly  with  jelly  applied  with  a  brush, 
so  as  to  render  them  glossy. 

(2462).  OHAUDFROID  OF  TURKEY  A  LA  PERIGORD  (Chaudfroid  de  Dinde  a  la  P4rigord). 

Braise  and  put  away  to  cool  a  fine  six  to  eight-pound  turkey;  remove  the  fillets,  free  them 
from  skin  and  sinews,  and  cut  each  one  into  six  pieces,  making  them  as  long  as  possible;  trim  them 
all  the  same  shape  and  size,  and  cover  over  one  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  foies-gras  taken  from  a 


COLD    SERVICE.  745 

terrine,  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  let  get  quite  cold.  Prepare  a  chaudfroid  with  a 
quart  of  reduced  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  the  braise  stock,  strained,  skimmed  and  reduced  to  a 
pint,  with  as  much  aspic  jelly  (No.  103)  added.  Let  the  chaudfroid  be  cold  enough  to  cover  the 
meat  well.  Then  dip  the  pieces  one  by  one  into  it  and  remove  them  with  a  fork,  placing  one  beside 
the  other  on  a  tray  or  on  a  grate.  Let  get  cold,  then  cover  them  once  more,  exactly  the  same 
as  before,  and  finish  by  covering  with  half-set  jelly.  Dress  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish  around 
a  support,  both  the  foundation  and  support  being  made  of  tin,  having  a  hole  in  the  summit  and 
covered  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  dried  in  the  open  air  and  glazed  over  with  game  glaze  (No. 
398).  Decorate  all  around  with  small  glazed  truffles  set  in  small  white  crimped  paper  cases.  Insert 
into  the  top  of  the  support  a  tasteful  hatelet  ornamented  with  a  fine  glazed  truffle  and  a  cock's- 
comb. 

(2463).  CHICKENS  EOARLATE  A  LA  DERENNE  (Poulets  Ecarlate  a  la  Derenne). 

This  piece  is  dressed  on  an  oval  wooden  bottom  covered  with  white  paper  and  fastened  on  a 
long  dish,  having  in  the  center  a  slightly  conical-shaped  wooden  support  also  covered  with  paper 
and  a  hole  bored  in  the  top  to  hold  a  hatelet.  Cook  in  water  four  large  calves'  tongues  or  small 
red  beef  tongues;  drain  and  cool  under  a  weight.  Break  the  breast  bone  of  four  small,  singed  and 
cleaned  chickens,  then  remove  the  bone  and  fill  up  the  empty  space  with  galantine  forcemeat  (No. 
65)  mixed  with  truffles  and  cooked  foies-gras  cut  in  dice;  then  sew  up  the  breast  skin  on  the  back. 
Truss  these  chickens  with  the  legs  bent  under  the  skin,  lard  the  tops  and  wrap  each  one  in  a  smalJ 


FIG.  478. 

piece  of  fine  muslin  without  tightening  them  too  much;  cook  for  one  hour  in  stock  (No.  194a), 
but  very  slowly,  so  as  not  to  spoil  their  shape,  then  let  get  very  cold,  drain  and  untruss.  Detach 
the  breasts  from  the  back  part  of  the  chicken  and  cut  them  up  in  slices,  then  once  across,  keeping 
them  in  good  shape,  and  return  them  to  their  original  places.  Lay  the  chickens  on  a  grater,  cover 
over  with  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  properly  thickened,  and  let  it  get  cold.  Dress  the 
chickens  upright  on  the  oval  foundation  laid  on  the  dish,  leaning  them  against  the  support  and 
alternating  each  one  with  a  tongue  previously  pared,  skinned  and  cut  in  lengths,  but  returned  to 
the  original  position,  then  glazed  over  with  a  brush.  Surround  the  chickens  on  the  base  with  a 
piping  of  chopped  thick  jelly  pushed  through  a  cornet  and  between  every  tongue  and  chicken  lay 
a  well-rounded  peeled  truffle  cooked  in  white  wine  and  glazed  over  with  a  brush.  Lay  all  around 
the  outside  of  the  foundation  triangular  crusts  of  very  clear  jelly,  and  fasten  a  hatelet  into  the  top 
garnished  with  jelly  and  a  peeled  truffle.  It  is  advisable  to  serve  this  dish  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce 
(No.  606)  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 

(2464).  CHICKEN  FILLETS  A  LA  MIREBEL  (Filets  de  Poulet  a  la  Mirebel). 
Raise  and  pare  twelve  chicken  breasts;  remove  the  minion  fillets  and  the  skin  from  the  larger 
ones  as  well  as  the  pellicle  covering  the  minions  and  the  sinews.  Streak  half  of  the  minion  fillets 
with  truffles  and  the  other  half  with  red  beef  tongue,  then  shape  them  like  turbans;  lay  them  on  a 
buttered  baking  sheet  and  place  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  poach;  remove  and  set  under  a 
light  weight  until  cold.  Cover  with  half-set  jelly  and  fill  the  interiors  with  a  puree  of  foies-gras 
pushed  in  through  a  cornet,  and  on  top  of  each  lay  a  small,  very  white,  cooked  channeled  mush- 
room (No.  118)  covered  with  half-set  jelly.  Poach  the  larger  fillets  in  butter  and  lemon  juice,  lay 
them  under  a  weight  and  pare  again  into  half-hearts,  cover  over  with  jelly  and  decorate  with  fanciful 


746  THE    EPICUREAN. 

star-shaped  cuts  of  truffles  and  tongue  dipped  in  half-set  jelly.     For  this  use  a  round  mold  two 
and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter,  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep.    Cut  and  then  arrange  in  the 
pieces  of  truffle  and  tongue  as  shown  in  Fig.  479,  first  dipping  them  in  half -set  jelly; 
when  this  is  hard,  unmold  and  place  these  stars  on  the  largest  part  of  the  fillet  and 
cover  the  whole  with  half-cold    jelly.       (These  stars  are    used  for    lamb  cutlets, 
Leverrier.)     Fill  the  basin  of  a  dish  with   chopped  jelly;  after  the  large   fillets  are 
cold  decorate  with  favor  frills  (No.  10)  and  dress   them   in  a  circle;  surround  with 
more  chopped  jelly  and  croutons,  laying  the  minion  fillets  around.    Cut  up  some  let- 
tuce hearts,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  mix  thoroughly,  drain  and  place  this  salad  in 
the  center  of  the  dish;  serve  a  vinaigrette  mayonnaise  sepai'ately. 

(2465).  CHICKEN  BREASTS  A  LA  RENAISSANCE  (Filets  de  Poulet  a  la  Renaissance). 
Pare  ten  chicken  breasts  without  the  minion  fillets;  beat  them  thin,  then  season  and  poach  in  clari- 
fied butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  laid  in  a  sautoir,  keeping  them  rare;  drain  and  range  them  on  a 
tray,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  set  a  light  weight  on  top  until  they  become  cold.  Streak  the 
minion  fillets  with  slices  of  truffles  and  shape  them  into  rings;  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and 
cover  with  buttered  paper;  poach  in  a  slack  oven,  drain  them,  and  when  cold  cover  over  with 
half-set  jelly.  Drain  off  all  the  butter  from  the  pared  breasts  and  take  them  up  one  by  one  with  a 
broad  fork,  dip  five  of  them  into  a  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  and  range  them  at  once  on  a 
tray,  keeping  them  slightly  apart,  and  then  put  it  on  the  ice  to  harden  the  sauce.  Dissolve  the  re- 
mainder of  the  sauce  in  a  bain-marie  and  add  to  it  a  puree  of  ravigote  herbs  (No.  623)  pounded 
without  any  butter,  but  having  two  spoonfuls  of  the  cold  chaudfroid  sauce  added;  strain  and  color 
with  a  little  spinach  green  (No.  37).  Stir  this  sauce  on  ice  until  of  the  proper  thickness,  and  with 
it  cover  the  other  five  fillets,  the  same  as  the  first  ones,  and  when  the  sauce  has  become  cold  pare 
off  all  the  superfluous  sauce  around,  then  dress  all  these  breasts  in  a  crown-shape  on  a  thick  layer 
of  jelly  set  on  the  dish.  In  the  center  of  this  crown  range  a  pyramid  of  large  Spanish  olives  stuffed 
with  a  puree  of  foies-gras  mingled  with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594);  around  dress  the 
streaked  minion  fillets  and  in  the  center  of  each  lay  a  small  round  glazed  truffle. 

(2466),  CHICKEN  BREASTS  A  LA  GALLIER  (Filets  de  Foulef  a  la  Gallier). 
Trim  a  rice  socle  eight  inches  in  diameter  and  two  inches  high.  Remove  the  sinews  well  from 
twelve  chicken  breasts,  suppress  the  skin  and  pare  nicely,  then  fry  them  white  in  clarified  butter  and 
lemon  juice;  season  with  salt,  drain,  and  lay  them  under  a  light  weight;  trim  them  into  half-hearts, 
and  split  them  in  two  through  their  thickness;  then  cover  one  part  of  each  with  foies-gras  taken 
from  a  terrine,  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  place  the  other  part  on  top  of  this,  press- 
ing one  on  the  other  lightly  and  evenly.  Cover  half  of  these  double  fillets  with  a  ravigote  chaudfroid 
(No.  595),  and  when  it  is  cold  brush  over  with  partly  solidified  jelly;  decorate  the  others  with  truffles, 
and  cover  also  with  partly  cold  jelly.  When  ccld  cut  away  the  surplus  of  chaudfroid  and  jelly 
and  ornament  the  pointed  ends  with  favor  frills  (No.  10).  Dress  the  fillets  in  a  circle  on  the  socle, 
intercalating  the  two  kinds,  having  first  one  covered  with  chaudfroid,  then  one  covered  with  jelly; 
fill  up  the  inside  with  some  well-seasoned  vegetable  macedoine  (No.  2650)  thickened  with  a  little 
jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  decorate  around  the  socle  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  of  jelly;  on 
top  of  the  macedoine  lay  round  pieces  of  glazed  black  truffle.  On  the  edge  of  the  socle  around  the 
fillet  have  a  border  of  stuffed  mushrooms  covered  with  chaudfroid  (see  No.  2517). 

(2467).  CHICKEN  FRICASSEE -CHAUDFROID  (Fricassee  de  Poulet-Chaudfroid). 

Prepare  a  fricassee  with  a  good,  large  chicken  the  same  as  for  fricassee  of  chicken  (No. 
1861),  add  two  dozen  large  mushroom  heads  turned  and  channeled  (No.  118).  Remove  the 
pieces  of  chicken  singly  and  suppress  all  the  skin  and  most  of  the  bone,  then  range  them  on  a 
tray;  remove  the  mushrooms  and  set  them  aside  to  get  cold;  strain  the  sauce  into  a  small 
saucepan  without  thickening  it  with  eggs,  and  let  get  cold  while  stirring,  incorporating  into  it 
slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cold  jelly,  then  thicken  it  slightly  on  ice,  stirring  it  the  same  as  a  chaud- 
froid sauce.  Take  up  the  pieces  of  chicken  with  a  fork,  and  immerse  them  thoroughly  in  the 
sauce,  not  having  it  too  thick;  do  the  same  with  the  mushrooms,  and  leave  to  drain  well;  dress 
them  as  quickly  as  each  piece  is  done  in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  very  cold  dish;  cover  with  half-set 
jelly,  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose,  and  dress  the  mushrooms  around  the  chickens,  surrounding 
these  with  a  border  of  jelly  pushed  through  a  cornet.  Keep  the  dish  for  one-quarter  of  an  hour  in 
the  ice-box  before  serving. 


COLD    SERVICE.  747 

(2468).  CHICKENS  SAUTED  A  LA  SHERMAN  (Poulets  Sautes  a  la  Sherman). 
Incrust  a  fancy  border  mold  in  chopped  ice,  having  it  decorated  with  truffles  and 
egg-white;  coat  the  decoration  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  and  fill  the  center  with  slices  of  tongue, 
mushrooms,  ham  and  truffles;  pour  the  sauce  obtained  from  the  chicken  over,  and  let  get  cold, 
then  mask  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  to  finish  filling  the  mold;  have  this  get  quite  hard.  Cut  up 
four  young  chickens,  each  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half;  they  must  be  well  drawn,  singed  and 
cleaned;  take  four  pieces  from  each,  namely,  two  wings  and  two  legs,  pare  and  saute  in  butter  to  a 
fine  color;  drain  off  the  butter  when  done  and  detach  the  glaze  with  a  little  Madeira  wine  and  espag- 
nole  sauce  (No.  414);  when  the  whole  is  reduced  to  perfection  mix  in  an  ounce  of  isinglass  dissolved 
in  a  little  broth  (No.  194a);  this  sauce  when  cold  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  a  lightly  thickened 
chaudf  roid.  Take  out  the  chickens,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  remove  a  part  of  it,  and  into 
it  mix  some  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  mushrooms,  truffles  and  lean  cooked  ham,  all  cut  in  eighth 
of  an  inch  thick  by  one  and  a  quarter  to  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  slices,  adding  the  chicken 
to  the  remainder  of  the  sauce.  Unmold  the  border,  and  when  the  chicken  has  cooled  in  its  sauce 
dress  it  inside  the  border,  and  finish  covering  with  the  nearly  cold  sauce.  Garnish  around  with  a 
border  of  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442).  Keep  the  dish  in  the  ice-box,  and  cover  entirely  with  the 
nearly  cold  jelly  applied  with  a  brush.  Decorate  with  fancy  paper  frills  (No.  10),  then  serve. 

(2469).  CHICKEN  BOASTED  WITH  JELLY,  CUT  UP  AND  GAKNISHED  WITH  TONGUE 
(Poulet  Roti  a  la  Gelee,  De'conpe'  et  Garni  de  Langne  de  Boeuf). 

Roasted  with  Jelly. — Select  a  fine  two  pound  and  a  half  to  three  pound  chicken;  it  must  be 
very  tender;  draw,  singe  and  free  it  of  all  the  pin  feathers,  then  truss  it  to  roast  (No.  179);  cover 
with  a  bard  of  thin  fat  pork,  then  roast  it  on  the  spit,  basting  it  frequently,  and  when  done  and 
of  a  fine  color,  remove  and  let  it  get  cold.  Untruss  and  glaze  with  chicken  glaze  (No.  397),  and 
surround  it  with  chopped  jelly  and  jelly  croutons,  cut  either  into  triangles,  oblongs,  lozenges,  ate. 

Cut  up  and  Garnished  with  Salted  Unsmoked  Beef  Tongue. — After  the  chicken  has  been 
cooked  and  is  cold,  the  same  as  for  the  above,  cut  it  up  into  five  pieces,  pare  them  nicely  and  glaze 
over.  Cut  from  the  thick  part  of  a  tongue  some  slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness; 
pare  them  into  oblongs  three  inches  long  by  one  and  three-quarters  wide,  and  cover  well  with  half- 
set  jelly.  Dress  the  chicken  around  an  upright  conical  support  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  dish, 
having  it  covered  with  green  butter  (No.  583);  decorate  around  with  chopped  jelly,  and  over  this 
place  the  oblongs  of  tongue  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other.  On  top  of  the  support  have 
some  ornamental  piece,  either  a  figure  or  a  cup  filled  with  jelly  cut  in  squares  of  an  eighth  of  an, 
inch.  This  dish  can  be  accompanied  by  a  separate  remoulade  sauce  (No.  624). 

(2470),  CREAM  OP  LOBSTER  (Creme  de  Homard), 

Fasten  a  wooden  paper-covered  foundation  on  a  dish,  having  in  its  center  a  flat  support  two 
inches  high,  forming  a  step  with  a  hole  in  the  top.  Decorate  the  bottom  and  interior  of  ten 
large  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  with  gherkins  or  truffles  dipped  in  half-set  jelly,  coat  the  molds 
lightly  with  jelly,  turning  them  around  on  ice.  Suppress  the  shells  from  the  tails  and  claws  of 


FIG.  480. 

three  small  cooked  lobsters,  split  the  claws  in  two  lengthwise  and  readjust  them  with  half-set  jelly 
to  their  original  shape;  keep  them  on  ice.  Cut  up  the  tail  meats  and  pound  them  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom  liquor,  and  mix  in  two  spoonfuls  of  the 
creamy  parts  from  the  bodies,  also  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper;  pass  the  whole  through  a  tammy  and 
pour  the  preparation  into  a  vessel  to  smooth  while  stirring  it  vigorously  with  a  spoon;  incorporate 


748  THE    EPICUREAN. 

into  it  slowly  four  gills  of  oil,  two  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  two  gills  of  aspic  jelly  (No.  103); 
beat  the  preparation  on  ice  to  thicken,  then  mix  in  at  once  the  value  of  three  or  four  gills  of 
unsweetened  whipped  cream.  When  finished,  fill  the  small  molds  with  this  preparation  and  let  it 
harden  on  ice;  at  the  last  moment  dip  each  mold  separately  into  hot  water,  wipe  them  off  quickly 
and  invert  them  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish  around  the  support;  cover  this  latter  with  a  coat  of 
thick  chopped  jelly  and  stick  an  untrimmed  hatelet  in  the  hole  on  top;  now  dress  the  lobster  claws 
upright  in  a  triangle  against  the  hatelet,  placed  there  with  the  purpose  of  holding  them  up,  and 
fasten  them  on  with  sticky  jelly;  brush  them  over  with  half -set  jelly  and  surround  the  base  with 
green  parsley  leaves  or  water  cress.  Arrange  around  the  dish  small,  even  triangles  of  jelly,  cutting 
off  the  tips,  and  serve  with  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 


(2471).  OUTLETS  OP  LAMB,  IMPEKIAL  (Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  rimpenale). 

Trim  eight  to  ten  lamb  cutlets  taken  from  the  rib  near  the  loin  of  two  racks,  four  from  each 
rack;  suppress  the  chine  bone  and  fibrous  skin  from  the  rib  bones,  pare  them,  leaving  only  the  kernel 
on;  beat  this  lightly,  replace  the  fat  by  lamb  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  92)  so  as  .to  give  them  their 
original  shape,  season  and  fry  on  both  sides  in  butter;  when  done  drain  on  a  baking  sheet  and 
cover  with  buttered  paper,  then  set  them  under  a  light  weight  to  cool;  pare  them  once  more.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549),  strained  through  a  tammy,  and  dilute  it 
slowly  with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594);  thicken  this  lightly  on  ice,  remove  and  dip  the  cutlets 
into  it  one  by  one,  covering  them  entirely;  range  them  at  once  on  a  tray  and  keep  in  a  cool  place 
to  harden  the  sauce.  Detach  the  cutlets  from  the  sheet,  free  them  of  all  surplus  sauce  and  trim  the 
handles  with  fancy  favor  frills  (No.  10);  dress  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  whole  asparagus 
tops  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dressed  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  cover  the  tops 
of  the  asparagus  with  glazed  truffles  cut  in  slices,  surround  the  meats  with  chopped  jelly  and  place 
around  a  border  of  jelly  croutons. 

(2472),  OUTLETS  OF  LAMBS'  KERNELS  IN  BELLEVUE  (Ootelettes  de  Noix  d'Agneau  en  Bellevue). 

Pare  and  saute"  twelve  lamb  cutlets;  place  them  under  a  lightweight  and  cut  away  the  kernels; 
cover  these  with  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594).  Decorate  an  aspic  mold  and  fill  it  with  layers 
of  the  kernels  and  jelly  alternated  and  leave  for  two  hours  on  ice;  then  unmold,  dress  on  a  dish 
bottom  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  and  one  inch  in  diameter  larger  than  the  aspic  and  surround  with 
chopped  jelly  and  jelly  croutons.  Place  a  large  Bellevue  hatelet  (No.  2526)  in  the  center. 

(2473),  OUTLETS  OF  LAMB  WITH  ASPIO  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  a  1'Aspic). 

Procure  twelve  cutlets  cut  from  the  covered  ribs  of  a  spring  lamb  and  nicely  pared;  lard  them 
with  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  made  of  veal  udder,  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue.  Line  a  sautoir 
with  slices  of  fat  pork,  place  the  cutlets  over  and  moisten  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419); 
set  it  on  the  fire  and  at  the  first  boii  push  it  into  the  oven.  When  done  drain  and  cool  off  under  a 
weight,  pare  once  more  so  that  the  lardons  can  be  seen  well.  Decorate  an  aspic  mold, 
range  the  cutlets  inside  of  it  in  a  circle,  placing  a  crouton  of  tongue  between  each  one,  and  pour  in 
sufficient  jelly  to  fill  the  mold  to  within  a  quarter  from  the  top;  after  this  has  become  firm  finish 
filling  the  mold  with  jelly  and  lay  it  aside  on  ice  for  two  hours.  When  prepared  to  serve  un- 
mold the  aspic  on  a  dish,  having  the  basin  covered  with  very  firm  jelly,  or  on  a  small,  low, 
decorated  socle.  Fill  the  center  with  a  blanquette  of  lamb  sweetbreads  prepared  with  truffles,  and 
surround  the  whole  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons. 

(2474).  OUTLETS  OF  LAMBS'  KERNELS  WITH  MAYONNAISE  (Ootelettes  de  Noix  d'Agneau  k  la 

Mayonnaise). 

Fry  twelve  fine  spring  lamb  chops;  press  them  under  a  weight  and  cut  out  all  the  parts  except 
the  kernels;  pare  and  replace  the  trimmings  by  pate  de  foies-gras  and  dip  them  into  a  jellied  mayon- 
naise (No.  613)  so  as  to  cover  them  entirely  with  a  thick  layer  of  it.  Range  some  cut-up  lettuce 
leaves  on  a  dish,  reserving  the  hearts  for  decorating;  around  the  lettuce  dress  the  kernels  of  lamb 
and  decorate  the  whole  with  the  lettuce  hearts,  hard-boiled  eggs,  anchovies,  olives,  etc. ;  surround 
the  edge  of  the  dish  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  of  the  same. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


749 


(2475).  OUTLETS  OP  LAMB  WITH  TOMATOED  CHAUDFROID  (Ootelettes  d'Agneau  an  Ohaud- 

froid  Tomat6). 

Fry  in  butter  a  dozen  fine  short-handled  spring-lamb  cutlets;  put  some  blond  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  596)  into  a  saucepan  and  mix  in  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  so 
that  it  acquires  a  light  red  tint;  thicken  it  by  putting  the  saucepan  on  ice  and  moving  constantly 
with  a  spoon,  and  when  thick  dip  the  cutlets  in  so  as  to  have  them  well  covered.  Kange  them  at 
once  on  a  baking  sheet  slightly  apart,  but  all  on  the  same  side,  and  allow  the  same  to  harden  in  a 
cool  place;  detach  them,  pare  and  decorate  the  kernels  with  a  rosette  formed  of  pickled  gherkin 
and  truffles  dipped  into  half-set  jelly;  cover  the  whole  with  a  coating  of  jelly,  cool,  then  dress  in  a 
circle  on  a  dish,  having  the  handle  bones  under  and  the  kernels  on  top;  fill  the  center  with  chopped 

jelly. 

(2476).  OUTLETS  OF  LOBSTER  A  LA  LOWERY  (Ootelettes  de  Homard  a  la  Lowery), 
Chop  up  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  separately,  also  some  pistachios.  In- 
crust  a  cylindrical  mold  in  ice;  divide  the  bottom  into  six  even  parts  with  sticks  of  truffles  dipped 
in  half-set  jelly  and  in  one  of  these  put  the  white,  in  another  the  yellow,  and  in  a  third  the  green; 
repeat,  then  pour  over  a  little  jelly,  and  when  hard  add  sufficient  to  have  it  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick;  over  this  lay  in  a  circle  some  lobster  escalops  covered  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  one 
overlapping  the  other;  pour  more  jelly  over,  and  continue  this  process  until  the  mold  is  full;  leave 
it  on  ice  to  get  thoroughly  cold,  invert  it  on  a  dish  and  surround  with  cutlets  prepared  as  follows: 
Have  some  bottomless  cutlet  molds;  lay  them  on  sheets  of  oiled  paper,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  each 
one  with  a  bed  of  jellied  mayonnaise  having  raw  fine  herbs  added  to  it;  on  top  place  small,  wall- 
seasoned  slices  of  lobster,  also  sliced  truffles,  and  cover  with  a  little  white  jellied  mayonnaise  (No. 
613),  strewing  the  whole  with  finely  chopped  truffles;  when  very  cold  unmold  and  dress  them  in  a 
circle  around  the  aspic;  trim  the  thin  ends  with  a  fancy  favor  frill  (No.  10),  and  place  a  border  of 
stuffed  olives  (No.  695)  around  the  cutlets,  and  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  outside  the  whole. 

(2477).  OUTLETS  OF  PHEASANT  IN  OHAUDFROID  (Ohaudfroid  de  Ootelettes  de  Faisan). 

The  accompanying  drawing,  Fig.  481,  is  the  model  of  a  mold  in  which  the  cutlet  preparation  is 

hardened;  this  is  made  of  thick  tin,  open  on  both  ends,  but  it  can  be  closed  by  covers  that  fit 

on  the  mold  itself.     This  mold  when  closed  measures  three  inches  in  height  and  two  in  width,  it 

being  shaped  like  a  half-heart,  but  for  preparing  a  large  quantity  double  molds  can  be  em- 


Fio.  481. 

ployed,  they  having  almost  a  whole  heart -shapa  appearance;  if  these  are  used,  after  the  prepara- 
tion is  hardened  and  unmolded,  it  is  to  be  cut  in  two  through  the  center  from  the  top  to  the 
bottom  and  each  half  made  into  a  single  cutlet;  in  this  way  there  will  be  sufficient  of  them  to  dress 
three  or  four  dishes.  With  the  breast  meat  cut  from  a  large  cold  roasted  pheasant,  an  equal 
amount  of  cooked  foies-gras,  one  or  two  gills  of  melted  game  glaze  (No.  398),  and  two  or  three  gills  of 
brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  reduced  with  pheasant  fumet  (No.  397),  make  a  preparation,  and 
when  smooth  and  of  a  desired  consistency  mix  in  with  it  a  fine  salpicon  of  cooked  foies-gras  and 
truffles,  half  of  each;  then  stir  it  on  ice  to  thicken  sufficiently  so  that  the  truffles  and  livers  do  not 
fall  to  the  bottom.  Pour  it  into  the  cutlet  mold,  laying  on  ice,  and  wrapping  the  mold  in  a  sheet 
of  paper  imbed  it  completely  in  pounded  ice  and  keep  it  thus  for  five  or  six  hours.  At  the  expi- 
ration of  this  time  dip  the  mold  in  warm  water  to  unmold  the  preparation,  and  then  cut  it  at  once 
into  two  parts,  from  top  to  bottom;  smooth  the  surfaces  well  and  keep  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  ice. 
After  removing  them,  divide  across  in  slices  each  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  take 
these  up  one  by  one  on  a  broad  fork  and  dip  in  some  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  properly 


750 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


thickened;  drain  it  off  well  and  range  the  cutlets  on  a  cold  baking  sheet  slightly  apart.     Lay  this  on 
ice  for  half  an  hour  to  harden  the  sauce;  detach  the  cutlets  from  the  sheet  and  pare  off  any  surplus  of 


FIG.  482. 

sauce,  and  stick  a  pretty  favor  frill  (No.  10)  into  each;  dress  them  in  a  close  circle  on  a  foundation 
placed  on  a  dish  and  covered  over  with  paper;  fill  in  the  empty  space  in  the  circle  merely  with 
chopped  jelly  and  surround  the  foundation  with  large  croutons  of  jelly.  Keep  the  dish  in  the 
ice-box  until  needed. 

(2478).  VEAL  OUTLETS  A  L'ANACKEON  (Ootelettes  de  Veau  a  TAnacrgon). 
Lard  some  veal  cutlets  cut  from  a  rack  with  tongue  and  fat  pork,  a  half  of  each;  braise  or  poeler 
them  while  basting  frequently,  then  lay  them  under  a  weight  to  reduce  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness;  pare  neatly  and  cover  over  with  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  decorate  with  a  hand- 
some truffle  rosette;  range  a  buttered  paper  on  top  of  each  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven;  when  cold 
mask  the  surfaces  with  half-set  jelly  and  dress  flat  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  an  asparagus 
salad  (No.  2621);  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons. 


(2479).  OUTLETS  OF  WOODCOCK,  PONIATOWSKI  (Cotelettes  de  Brasses,  a  la  Poniatowski). 

Dress  this  cold  entree  on  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  fastening  it 
on  to  a  dish;  decorate  the  sides  of  the  foundation,  and  place  a  support  in  the  center  surmounted  by  a 
small  fancy  tin  vase,  both  covered  the  same  as  the  foundation;  the  top  of  the  base  is  flat  and 
closed;  it  is  simply  to  be  dressed  with  three  fresh  woodcock  heads  with  feathers,  and  held  in 
shape,  arranged  in  a  triangle;  surround  their  base  with  chopped  jelly  and  a  chain  of  truffle  balls. 


FIG.  483. 

Cut  the  meats  of  three  cooked,  cold  woodcock  into  a  fine  montglas,  put  this  in  a  saucepan  with 
half  as  much  cooked  foies-gras,  and  as  many  truffles  cut  exactly  like  the  meats;  combine  this 
montglas  with  some  good,  partly  warm,  succulent  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  reduced  with  game 
fumet  (No.  397);  smooth  the  preparation  and  use  it  to  fill  twelve  to  fourteen  tin  cutlet-shaped  molds 
brushed  over  with  jelly;  equalize  the  tops  and  leave  to  cool  one  hour  on  ice.  Dip  these  cutlets  in 
hot  water,  unmold  on  a  baking  sheet  and  smooth  the  surfaces  once  more;  lift  them  up  one  by  one, 
dip  into  a  good  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  slightly  thickened  on  ice,  and  return  them  at  once 
to  the  sheet  to  have  this  sauce  get  thoroughly  cold  on  ice.  Surround  the  base  of  the  support  with  a 
very  thick  layer  of  chopped,  sticky  jelly,  pushed  on  through  a  pocket.  At  the  last  moment 
detach  the  cutlets  from  the  sheet,  pare  neatly,  fasten  a  small  fancy  favor  frill  (No.  10)  in  each,  and 
dress  them  in  a  circle  around  the  support  on  the  foundation;  coat  with  jelly  so  as  to  give  them  a 
brilliant  appearance. 


COLD    SERVICE.  751 

(2480).  OUTLETS  OF  WOODCOCK  A  LA  SARAH  BERNHARDT  (Ootelettes  de  Brasses  a  la 

Sarah  Bemhardt). 

Take  seven  or  eight  fresh  round  Perigord  truffles,  all  of  equal  size  and  very  clean;  peel,  salt 
and  cook  them  for  seven  or  eight  minutes  in  a  little  Madeira  wine  and  leave  them  to  cool  off  in  this 
liquid.  Kemove  all  the  meats  from  three  woodcock  roasted  rare,  keeping  aside  three  or  four  of 
the  fillets;  pound  the  remainder  of  the  meats  with  a  part  of  the  cooked  intestines  and  three- 
quarters  as  much  cooked  foies-gras;  season  and  rub  through  a  sieve;  put  this  puree  into  a  vessel 
and  beat  it  up  for  two  minutes  with  a  spoon,  incorporating  into  it  slowly  four  spoonfuls  of  good 
melted  game  glaze  (No.  398)  and  one  gill  of  liquid  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  reduced  with 
game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  essence  of  truffles  (No.  395);  when  all  is  well  mingled  add  gradually  to 
the  preparation  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  wiped  and  divided  into  small  pats;  the 
whole  should  now  be  very  smooth  without  being  frothy.  Drain  the  truffles,  stand  them  upright 
on  a  cloth  to  mark  the  tops  with  a  tube  from  a  column  box  an  inch  in  diameter;  remove  this 
marked  piece  and  empty  the  truffles  out  with  a  vegetable  spoon;  pound  these  removed  pieces  with 
as  much  cooked  foies-gras,  season  the  preparation  and  lay  it  in  a  bowl  to  beat  up  for  a 
few  moments  so  as  to  have  it  smooth.  Prepare  a  montglas  with  half  of  the  woodcock  fillets  laid 
aside,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  red  beef  tongue  mingled  with  a  little  good  reduced  and  thick 
Madeira  sauce  (No.  413).  Moisten  with  a  brush  dipped  in  cold  jelly  a  dozen  tin  cutlet-shaped  molds, 
cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  the  woodcock  preparation,  leaving  an  empty  space  in  the  center; 
fill  this  up  with  some  of  the  cold  montglas;  cover  with  more  of  the  preparation  and  smooth  it  at  once; 
keep  the  molds  for  one  hour  on  ice,  then  unmold  them  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  brown  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  594).  Put  a  few  spoonfuls  of  this  chaudfroid  sauce  into  a  vessel,  thicken  it  while  stirring 
on  ice  and  mix  with  it  the  remainder  of  the  woodcock  fillets  cut  in  small  dice  and  twice  as  much 
cooked  foies-gras  cut  the  same;  use  this  preparation  for  stuffing  the  emptied  truffles;  range  them 
as  soon  as  done  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  close  the  opening  with  a  round  piece  of  cooked  foies- 
gras  cut  out  with  the  same  tube  used  for  marking  the  truffles;  glaze  over  the  whole  with  a  brush; 
keep  this  baking  sheet  on  ice  for  half  an  hour.  Harden  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  on  a  dish  and  on  top 
of  it  set  a  narrow  wooden  foundation  covered  with  white  paper;  on  this  dress  the  truffles  piled 
in  a  pyramidical  form,  then  push  chopped  jelly  through  a  cornet  into  all  the  intersections,  as  well  as 
around  the  truffles,  to  maintain  them  in  position.  Around  this  board  dress  the  cutlets  in  a  circle 
after  inserting  a  fancy  favor  frill  (No.  10)  into  each. 

(2481).  LOBSTER  DOME  GARNISHED  WITH  SMALL  OASES  (Dome  de  Homard  Garni  de  Petites 


Pound  the  cooked  meat  of  two  or  three  lobster  tails  with  a  spoonful  of  prepared  red  pepper 
(No.  168),  two  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  a  piece  of  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  pass  the 
whole  through  a  sieve  and  then  set  it  in  a  vessel  to  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  white  chaud- 
froid sauce  (No.  596)  and  two  gills  of  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  Mix  in  with  this  preparation  the  claw 
meat  cut  in  small  dice.  Incrust  a  dome-shaped  mold  wider  than  its  height  on  ice;  decorate  the  top 
and  sides  with  fanciful  cuts  of  gherkins,  black  truffles,  lobster  coral,  tarragon  leaves  and  red  shrimp 
tails  split  in  two,  being  careful  to  dip  each  separate  decoration  in  half-set  jelly.  Harden  a  layer  of 
jelly  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold,  and  when  cold  set  another  dome-shaped  mold  inside  of  it,  having  it 
tilled  with  pounded  ice,  but  half  an  inch  narrower  than  the  first  one;  pour  some  half-set  jelly 
between  the  intersections  of  the  two  molds  to  fill  up  the  empty  space  entirely,  and  as  soon  as  this 
is  hard  remove  the  smaller  mold,  after  replacing  the  ice  by  warm  water.  Thicken  the  lobster  prep- 
aration on  ice  while  stirring,  and  pour  into  it  two  spoonfuls  of  good  tarragon  vinegar  and  some 
blanched  cut-up  tarragon  leaves;  pour  all  this  into  the  empty  coated  mold  and  let  rest  for  one 
hour.  Unmold  the  dome  on  to  a  socle  of  carved  rice  two  inches  high  (see  Fig.  9a),  having  it  round, 
and  surround  its  base  with  the  small  cases,  as  described  herewith:  Put  a  dozen  small  china  cases 
on  ice  to  have  thoroughly  cold.  Split  across  in  two  the  meats  of  four  or  five  lobster  claws;  cut 
these  same  meats  into  small  rounds  with  a  tin  tube,  having  them  half  an  inch  in  diameter  and  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  lay  them  in  a  small  vessel  with  half  the  quantity  of  rounds  of  truffles  and 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  rounds  of  gherkin,  all  being  of  the  same  size  as  the  lobster;  season  with 
salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  oil  and  vinegar,  leaving  them  to  macerate  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes. 
Drain  off  the  seasoning  and  thicken  it  with  blond  chaudfroid  sauce,  made  by  mixing  white  and 
brown  chaudfroid,  mingled  with  two  spoonfuls  of  mayonnaise  (No.  606)  and  a  pinch  of  chopped 
tarragon  leaves.  Fill  the  cases  with  this  preparation,  covering  the  tops  with  a  layer  of  mayon- 
naise finished  with  tarragon  vinegar. 


752  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2482),  DUCKLING,  WITH  SPANISH  OLIVES  (Qaneton  aux  Olives  d'Espagne). 
Singe,  draw  and  clean  a  duckling,  then  bone  it  from  the  ribs.  Mix  in  a  vessel  equal  quantities 
of  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64)  and  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  73);  add  two  spoonfuls  of  tomato 
puree  (No.  730)  and  a  large  salpicon  of  cooked  foies-gras.  With  this  dressing  fill  the  body  and 
breast  of  the  duckling  where  the  pouch  was;  sew  up  the  skin  underneath,  and  truss  it  with  the  legs 
thrust  inside  as  for  an  entree  (No.  178);  lard  over  and  wrap  it  in  thin  muslin,  then  cook  slowly  for 
one  hour  in  some  stock  (No.  194a).  Drain  off  the  duckling,  tighten  the  cloth  and  let  get  cold,  after 
unwrapping  and  untrussing  it;  detach  the  breast,  keeping  it  whole,  and  cut  it  into  slices  without 
misshaping  it;  then  return  it  to  its  original  place.  Wipe  the  duckling  well,  and  cut  a  piece  from 
underneath  so  that  it  will  stand  plumb,  and  set  it  on  a  grate;  cover  it  over  with  some  excellent 
brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594),  finished  with  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  reduced  with  Madeira 
wine.  After  this  sauce  has  drained  off  well  keep  the  duckling  for  ten  minutes  in  the  ice-box; 
remove  and  dress  it  on  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  that  has  stiffened  on  a  dish,  and  surround  both  sides 
and  front  with  a  garnishing  of  large  Spanish  olives,  stuffed  with  foies-gras  and  covered  with  brown 
chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594). 

(2483).  FOIES-GEAS  IN  BOEDER  (Foies-Gras  en  Bordure). 

Open  a  terrine  of  foies-gras;  suppress  all  the  top  fat  and  keep  on  ice  for  two  or  three  hours. 
Fill  a  fancy  border  mold  (Fig.  470)  with  fine  cold  aspic  jelly  (No.  103),  and  put  it  on  ice  for  one  hour. 
Cut  up  the  contents  of  the  terrine  with  a  thin  steel  spoon  the  size  and  shape  of  a  tablespoon,  dipping 
it  each  time  into  warm  water;  should  this  cutting  be  neatly  done  the  pieces  will  each  acquire  the 
shape  of  the  spoon,  rounded  lightly;  lay  all  of  these  as  fast  as  they  are  done  on  a  cold  baking 
sheet,  one  beside  the  other,  repairing  those  that  may  have  been  broken  during  the  process,  and 
put  them  away  on  ice  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve  dip  the  border  mold 
into  warm  water,  wipe  neatly,  and  invert  the  mold  on  a  cold  dish,  having  a  wooden  or  tin 
foundation  in  the  center  exactly  the  same  size  and  covered  with  white  paper;  on  this  foundation 
dress  the  pieces  of  foies-gras  pyramidically,  placing  the  poorest  looking  ones  underneath,  and  piling 
the  remainder  into  a  steep  pyramid. 

(2484).   FOIES-GEAS  IN  OKADLE,   TO  BE  OUT  IN  SLICES  (Foies-Gras  en  Berceau,  pour  etre 

Coupe"  en  Tranches). 

Prepare  one  pound  and  a  half  of  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64);  let  this  forcemeat  become  quite 
cold,  then  pound  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Chop  up  two  pounds  of  lean  veal  with  a  pound  and 
a  quarter  of  fresh  fat  pork,  and  pound  this  to  a  pulp  also;  season  and  lay  it  in  a  bowl  to  mix  with 
three  or  four  raw,  chopped  truffles,  and  add  liver  baking  forcemeat.  Butter  cradle-shaped 
molds,  and  cover  the  insides  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  leaving  an  empty  space  in 
the  center;  fill  up  this  vacancy  with  large  strips  of  raw  foies-gras,  season  and  intermingle  them 
with  forcemeat  and  cut- up  raw  truffles;  cover  this  over  with  more  of  the  forcemeat  and  with  slices 
of  fat  pork.  Lay  the  mold  on  a  raised-edge  baking  sheet  containing  a  little  water,  push  it  into  a 
slack  oven  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  when  removed,  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  slight 
weight.  These  pies  are  useful  for  cutting  up  in  slices. 

(2485a).  GALANTINE  OF  CHICKEN  (Galantine  de  Poulet). 

Singe  one  large  chicken,  suppress  the  neck  and  drumsticks,  also  the  pinion  bones;  split  it  in 
two  down  the  back  and  bone  it  entirely.  Spread  the  chicken  out  on  a  table,  remove  part  of  the 
breast  meats  and  lay  them  on  the  skin  where  there  is  no  meat.  Also  remove  the  meat  from  the 


FIG.  484. 

legs,  suppress  the  sinews  and  chop  them  up  and  place  in  a  vessel;  also  chop  up  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  lean  veal  and  an  equal  amount  of  fresh  fat  pork  and  add  it  to  the  legs;  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  blanched  fat  pork,  cut  in  half-inch  squares,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  red  beef 
tongue;  add  a  few  quartered  truffles  and  a  few  peeled  pistachios;  season  and  pour  over  a  few  spoon- 


COLD    SERVICE. 


753 


fuls  of  Madeira  wine.  Season  the  inside  of  the  chicken,  fill  it  with  the  contents  of  the  bowl,  alter- 
nating with  the  forcemeat,  then  roll  the  boned  chicken  into  an  oblong  shape,  sew  it  up  and  wrap 
it  in  a  cloth,  tightening  it  well,  then  tie  it  at  the  two  ends  and  in  the  center.  Place  it  in  a  long 
saucepan  with  the  broken-up  bones  and  two  or  three  calves'  feet;  moisten  liberally  with  stock  (No. 
194a)  and  boil  while  skimming;  cook  the  boned  chicken  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  then  drain; 
ten  minutes  later  unwrap,  remove  the  thread  and  wrap  it  up  once  more  in  the  same  cloth, 
after  it  has  been  well  washed,  tying  it  this  time  with  five  rows  of  string  —  two  at  the  ends,  one  in  the 
center,  and  two  between;  let  cool  off  under  a  light  weight  for  six  hours.  After  it  is  finally  un- 
wrapped, pare  and  glaze  with  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596)  so  as  to  be  able  to  decorate  with 
truffles;  cool  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  partly  cold  jelly,  dress  on  a  small  rice  or  hominy  socle  (Fig. 
9a),  and  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442^  prepared  with  the  galantine  stock 
itself. 


(2485W.  TEUTFLE  DEOOKATIONS  (Ornements  en  Truffes). 

For  these  decorations  select  large,  mellow,  sound  black  marbled  truffles;  cut  them 
into  thin  slices  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  arrange  them  as  in  shown  Fig.  485.  These 
truffle  decorations  are  taken  up  with  a  metal  needle,  then  dipped  into  half-set  jelly,  and  applied 
to  the  object  required  to  be  decorated,  the  principal  aim  being  to  dispose  them  very  regularly, 


FIG.  485. 


and  arrange  them  with  taste.  Truffle  decorations  can  also  be  made  by  cutting  the  truffles  as  thin 
as  a  thread  with  a  knife,  and  placing  them  at  once  in  Madeira  wine  until  required  for  use,  then 
drip  and  lay  them  on  a  napkin.  With  these  imitate  the  outlines  of  landscapes  or  any  other  orna- 
mentation, using  them  for  tracing  designs  imitating  pen  or  pencil  drawings.  When  the  design  is 
finished  coat  over  with  half -set  white  jelly. 

(2486).  GALANTINE  OP  CHICKEN  A  LA  D'OKLEANS  (Galantine  de  Poulet  a  la  d'Orleans). 

Bone  two  young  chickens  weighing  two  pounds  each;  leave  on  only  the  white  meat  adhering 
to  the  breasts,  and  suppress  the  leg  meats;  remove  some  of  the  breast  meat  adhering  to  the  skin 
and  place  it  where  the  skin  is  bare.  These  chickens  when  boned  and  stuffed  should  only  weigh 
two  pounds  and  a  half  each.  Fill  them  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which  mix  a  salpicon 
of  truffles,  pistachios,  tongue  and  foies-gras,  all  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  let  cook  in  a  stock 
(No.  194a)  for  two  hours,  unwrap,  wash  out  the  cloths  and  revvrap  them  as  before;  hang  them  up 
by  one  end  on  a  hook,  and  to  the  other  end  fasten  a  sufficiently  heavy  weight;  leave  them  hanging 
for  twelve  hours;  unwrap  and  pare  them  alike,  then  cover  with  an  ordinary  white  chaudfroid  (No. 


754 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


596);  decorate  the  tops  with  fanciful  designs  of  truffles  dipped  in  half-set  jelly  so  they  adhere 
well  to  the  galantines;  when  thoroughly  fastened  coat  over  with  jelly  spread  over  with  a  funnel 


FIG.  486. 

made  for  this  purpose  (Fig.  759),  and  stand  them  against  the  support;  place  one  on  each  side.  The 
cup  is  filled  with  small  truffles.  Arrange  some  squares  of  jelly  around  the  support,  and  chopped 
jelly  between  the  support  and  croutons,  as  shown  in  tlio  drawing. 

(2487).  GALANTINE  OF  DUCKLING,  PEAR-SHAPED  (Galantine  de  Caneton  en  Forme  de  Poire). 

Bone  a  cleaned  and  singed  duckling,  leaving  on  one  leg;  season  the  inside  meats  and  fill  with 
pounded  galantine  forcemeat  (No.  65)  mixed  with  half  as  much  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  and  a 
salpiconof  lambs'  sweetbreads,  mushrooms  and  truffles,  to  be  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  also  some 
cooked  and  cold  veal  udder.  Eestore  the  duckling  to  its  original  shape,  sew  it  up,  inclosing  its 
contents,  and  mold  it  in  a  bottomless  mold,  shaped  like  a  pear;  braise  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419) 
for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  slack  oven,  basting  frequently.  "When  done  drain  and  place  this  mold 
on  a  buttered  baking  sheet  and  leave  it  to  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight;  glaze  over  with  a 
light  green  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  595),  smear  one  side  of  the  galantine  with  a  piece  of  wadding 
that  has  been  rubbed  on  very  finely  powdered  carmine,  and  coat  with  a  layer  of  half-set  jelly;  at 
the  end  stick  in  either  a  natural  or  artificial  pear-stalk  with  a  few  leaves  around  and  surround,  when 
dished,  with  a  border  of  chopped  jelly  and  croutons. 


(2488).  GALANTINE  OP  EEL,  DECORATED  (Galantine  d'Anguille  D6cor6e). 

Skin  a  large  Niagara  eel.  take  out  the  middle  bone,  season  and  fill  it  with  fish  quenelle  force- 
meat (No.  90),  mixing  into  it  truffles  and  pistachios,  seasoning  it  well.  Inclose  this  dressing  in  the 
eel  and  lay  it  in  a  well-buttered  Savarin  mold,  baste  over  with  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419) 
and  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork.  Place  this  mold  in  a  low  saucepan  containing  a  little  water  and 
push  it  into  a  slack  oven;  when  the  fish  is  properly  done,  remove  and  leave  it  to  cool  off  in  the 
mold  under  the  pressure  of  a  light  weight,  then  turn  it  out  and  dress  on  a  round  dish;  cover  over 


COLD    SERVICE.  755 

with  Cambridge  butter  (No.  570),  decorate  with  cuts  of  truffle,  the  red  part  of  a  lobster,  tarragon 
leaves  and  a  small  stalk  of  chervil;  garnish  around  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs  (No.  2513) 
and  fill  the  center  with  a  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650;  dressed  with  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  serve 
with  a  separate  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(2489).  GALANTINE  OF  GOSLING,  MELON-SHAPED  (Galantine  d'Oison  en  Forme  de  Melon). 

After  singeing  and  boiling  a  gosling  remove  all  its  meat,  spread  out  the  skin  on  a  buttered 
napkin,  cut  up  the  breast  into  five-eighths  of  an  inch  squares,  suppress  all  sinews  from  the  legs 
and  add  as  much  pork  meat  and  veal  meat  to  obtain  a  pound  and  a  half  in  all;  chop  this  well,  then 
chop  separately  a  pound  of  fat  pork,  and  half  a  pound  of  beef  marrow.  Pound  all  well  together  and 
mix  in  with  the  pulp  a  clove  of  crushed  and  chopped  garlic,  some  finely  cut-up  mushrooms,  salt,  spices 
No.  2  (No.  168),  and  a  few  egg-yolks.  Lay  this  forcemeat  on  the  skin  and  close  up  the  napkin, 
giving  it  a  round  shape;  tie  and  cook  in  a  stock  (No.  194a).  Unwrap  and  then  retighten  the 
napkin  and  flatten  lightly,  so  as  to  give  it  the  shape  of  a  melon;  let  cool  for  twenty-four  hours, 
afterward  imitate  a  melon  by  cutting  eight  half-inch  deep  grooves  from  top  tc  bottom,  glazing  it 
over  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596)  colored  with  yellow.  Paint  it  with  spinach  green  (No.  37) 
to  imitate  a  cantaloup  melon,  and  coat  with  layers  of  half-set  jelly.  Imitate  the  stalk  and 
melon  leaves  with  modeling  fat  (No.  56)  and  dress  it  on  a  dish,  garnishing  around  with  chopped 
jelly  and  croutons  of  jelly. 

(2490).  GALANTINES  OF  GUINEA  FOWL  A  LA  LYTTON  (Galantines  de  Pintades  a  la  Lytton). 
Bone  entirely  three  young  guinea  fowls,  spread  them  on  the  table,  remove  the  thigh  meats, 
suppress  the  sinews  of  the  fillets  and  all  the  superfluous  fat;  cut  the  fillets  in  two  on  their  thickness 
and  use  them  to  lay  where  the  meat  is  lacking,  then  fill  them  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat 
(No.  89)  mingled  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  pistachios  and  udder,  all  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch 
squares  and  well  mixed;  they  should,  when  stuffed,  each  weigh  two  pounds.  Cover  the  entire 
outside  with  very  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  wrap  them  up  in  napkins;  roll  all  the  same  thickness 
and  put  on  to  cook  in  some  stock  (No.  194a)  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  then  drain,  unwrap  and  wash 
out  the  napkins;  wrap  them  up  again  without  the  fat  pork  and  hang  them  on  a  hook,  fastening  a 
weight  to  the  end  of  each  one  so  as  to  have  them  well  pressed;  when  very  cold  unwrap  once  more 
and  pare  again;  cover  them  over  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  decorate  with  black  truffles, 
coat  with  jelly  and  dress  them  on  a  dish  against  an  upright  or  sloping  supporting  piece,  it  being 
two  inches  across  at  the  summit  and  six  at  the  base  by  five  inches  in  height,  covered  over  with  rav- 
igote  butter  (No.  583),  and  strew  chopped  parsley  over.  Set  a  cup  on  top  of  the  summit,  filled 
with  truffles.  Make  truffle  balls  with  foies-gras  taken  from  a  terrine.  pounded  and  rubbed 
through  a  sieve;  when  very  cold  form  this  irlto  inch  and  a  quarter  diameter  balls,  roll 
them  in  truffle  peelings  that  have  been  finely  chopped  and  passed  through  a  sieve.  When  these 
imitated  truffles  are  very  cold  dip  them  in  half-set  jelly  and  lay  each  one  in  a  white  paper  crimped 
case  the  same  size  as  themselves;  place  these  also  between  the  galantines  and  garnish  all  around 
with  chopped  jelly  and  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2491).  GALANTINES  OF  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  CLEMENTINE  (Galantines  de  Perdreaux  k  la 

Clementine). 

Choose  three  nice  partridges;  bone  and  open  them  on  the  table;  decrease  the  thickest  parts  of 
the  meats  to  place  them  on  the  thinner  spots,  then  season  well;  cover  with  game  galantine  force- 
meat (No.  66)  pounded  and  forced  through  a  sieve.  On  this  place  lengthways  some  lardons  (No. 
1,  Fig.  52)  of  blanched  fat  pork,  some  truffles,  cooked  beef  tongue  and  foies-gras;  cover  with  more 
forcemeat  and  repeat  the  operation,  finishing  with  the  forcemeat;  enclose  well  in  the  partridge 
skin  and  roll  up  in  separate  cloths,  tying  them  at  both  ends  and  in  the  center;  the  three  must  be 
of  the  same  weight — a  pound  and  a  half  apiece — and  rolled  to  the  same  length.  Simmer  them  in 
some  stock  (No.  194a)  for  two  hours;  drain  and  leave  cool  partly,  then  roll  them  up  tight  in  a  clean 
cloth,  tie  both  ends  and  the  center  again  and  hang  them  up,  fastening  a  ten-pound  weight  or  more 
to  the  bottom  of  each  one;  leave  till  quite  cold,  then  unwrap  and  pare  to  an  equal  size  and  shape; 
cover  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596);  decorate  with  truffles  and  mask  over  with  jelly,  then  leave 
to  get  quite  cold.  These  galantines  are  to  be  dressed  on  a  round  dish  with  swan  support  dressed 
on  the  stearine  foundation;  place  a  galantine  between  each  swan.  Bone  a  partridge  thoroughly, 
remove  all  the  skin  and  sinews  and  cut  it  up  in  small  quarter-inch  pieces,  fry  them  in  oil  with 
garlic,  mignonette  and  cayenne,  wet  with  good  vinegar  and  broth  and  let  simmer;  when  the  meats 
are  done  and  the  moisture  reduced  add  a  little  jelly.  Prepare  some  pretty,  red  peeled  tomatoes, 


756 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


empty  them,  arrange  on  a  baking  sheet,  fill  them  with  this  preparation,  replace  the  covers  and  when 
cold  glaze  over  with  half-set  jelly  and  lay  them  between  the  galantines.  Have  a  griffon  socle  pre- 
pared as  for  the  ballotines  a  la  Madison  (see  Fig.  453),  place  in  the  shells  of  the  socle  some  stuffed 
mushroom  heads  (No.  2517)  glazed  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594).  Garnish  the  bottom  of  the 


FIG.  487. 

socle  with  cases  of  stuffed  thrushes  or  larks  all  glazed  over  with  blond  chaudfroid;  between  each  of 
these  cases  lay  a  carved  hominy  croustade  filled  with  chopped  jelly,  with  the  streaked  minion 
fillets  formed  into  rings  on  the  top.  Finish  decorating  the  whole  with  a  stearine  cup  placed  on  the 
support,  having  it  filled  with  small  glazed  truffles;  around  the  base  place  a  garland  of  smilax  or 
other  greens. 


(2492).  GALANTINES  OP  PAKTBJDGES  AND  SLICED  IN  BELLEVUE  (Galantines  de  Perdreau* 

en  Tranches  et  en  Bellevue). 

Procure  two  or  three  fresh,  plucked  and  singed  partridges;  bone  them  through  the  back; 
suppress  the  largest  sinews  from  the  legs  and  fillets,  and  season;  remove  all  the  meat 
attached  to  the  bones  and  carcasses.  Prepare  a  fine  forcemeat  (No.  65),  pound  and  mix 
with  it  the  chopped  parings  of  the  birds  and  half  as  much  liver  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81);  pound, 
strain  and  season.  Put  into  a  bowl  some  strips  of  blanched  fat  pork  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square, 
mix  with  them  some  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue,  cut  the  same.  Fill  the  partridges  with  the  force- 
meat; reconstruct  them  to  their  original  shape  and  sew  up;  wrap  them  in  small  cloths,  tying  them 
at  the  ends  and  in  the  center.  Cook  these  galantines  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter  in  some 
good  unskimmed  stock  (No.  194a).  After  taking  them  out,  remove  the  cloths  and  wrap  them  up 
once  more,  only  much  tighter,  and  let  cool  off  under  a  light  weight;  finally,  unwrap,  pare,  glaze 
and  serve,  either  whole  or  cut  up,  garnished  with  jelly. 

In  Bellevue. — Have  a  boned  partridge  cooled  under  a  weight  as  for  the  above;  cut  it  into 
slices;  pare  them  into  even  ovals  all  of  the  same  thickness,  then  glaze  with  game  glaze  (No.  398)  on 
one  side  only,  using  a  brush;  lay  on  the  center  of  each  a  thin  slice  of  truffle  cut  out  with  a  column 
tube.  Let  a  thin  layer  of  clear  jelly  harden  on  a  small  baking  tin;  when  stiff,  range  the  slices  on  top, 
pressing  the  pieces  down  on  the  glazed  side,  one  beside  the  other,  then  pour  in  between  them  enough 
cold  jelly  to  reach  as  high  as  the  slices;  cool  this  for  one  hour  on  ice.  At  the  last  moment  slit  all 
around  these  slices  with  the  heated  tip  of  a  small  knife,  then  warm  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  a 
cloth  dipped  in  hot  water  to  enable  the  slices  to  be  removed  with  the  jelly  attached,  and  dress  in  a 
circle  on  a  cold  dish.  Garnish  the  center  with  chopped  jelly  and  around  with  croutons  of  jelly 
(No.  2442). 

(2493).  GALANTINE  OP  PAETRIDGE,  ELIZABETH  (Galantine  de  Perdreau  Elisabeth). 

Pare  some  quarter-inch  thick  slices  of  a  boned  partridge  prepared  as  in  Bellevue  (No.  2492) 
into  half-heart  shapes;  glaze  and  on  each  one  lay  a  fine  slice  of  black  and  well  marbleized  truffle, 
cover  with  jelly  and  dress  them  in  a  circle,  filling  the  center  with  a  Russian  salad  (No.  2645),  and 
around  with  artichoke  bottoms,  garnished  with  seasoned  macedoine  (No.  2650). 


COLD    SERVICE.  757 

(2494).  GALANTINE  OP  PHEASANT  A  LA  LOKENZO  (Galantine  de  Paisan  a  la  Lorenzo). 

Fry  colorless  in  butter  one  pound  of  fat  chicken  livers;  keep  half  of  the  finest  ones 
aside.  Chop  up  finely  one  pound  of  partridge  meat  and  the  same  quantity  of  fat  pork;  season 
highly  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  stir  well  together,  adding  four  egg-yolks  and  half 
of  the  liver  well  pounded;  press  the  whole  through  a  tammy  and  then  put  in  an  onion  cut  in  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  blanched  and  fried  colorless  in  butter,  and  some  finely  chopped 
parsley.  Bone  a  pheasant,  spread  it  open  on  the  table,  remove  half  of  the  thickness  of  the  fillets, 
equalize  the  meats  throughout  the  entire  surface  of  the  skin,  then  lay  a  third  of  the  prepared  force- 
meat over,  on  this  half  of  the  livers  laid  aside,  and  the  same  quantity  of  quartered  truffles;  now 
another  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  and  scatter  here  and  there  the  rest  of  the  livers  and  as  many 
truffles;  spread  all  that  remains  of  the  forcemeat,  and  enclose  the  whole  well  in  the  pheasant  skin; 
sew  and  roll  the  galantine  in  a  napkin;  tie  it  firmly  at  both  ends  and  in  the  center,  and  place  it  in 
a  braziere  with  a  knuckle  of  veal  and  the  game  carcasses,  a  bunch  of  garnished  parsley  (No.  123), 
an  onion  containing  two  cloves,  and  a  carrot  cut  in  four;  moisten  with  plenty  of  stock  (No.  194a), 
cook  slowly  for  two  and  a  half  hours,  then  leave  to  cool  off  in  the  stock  for  one  hour;  unwrap  and 
remold  it  once  more,  this  time  placing  it  under  a  weight.  When  the  galantine  is  thoroughly  cold, 
unwrap  and  pare  it  nicely,  then  cover  it  over  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  and  decorate  with 
cut-up  truffles,  pistachios,  tongue,  and  egg-white;  lay  it  on  a  small  three-inch  thick  socle  made  of 
carved  rice.  Prepare  sixteen  larks  by  boning  and  filling  them  with  forcemeat  composed  of  half 
foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78)  and  half  game  forcemeat  (No.  75)  and  chopped  truffles;  cook  them 
in  No.  3  mousseline  molds,  having  the  breasts  downward;  prepare  the  same  number  of  streaked 
partridge  minion  fillets,  form  them  in  the  shape  of  rings  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter, 
and  lay  each  one  on  a  separate  piece  of  buttered  paper;  fill  the  centers  with  game  cream 
forcemeat  (No.  75),  and  poach  in  a  slack  oven.  Put  some  No.  1  mousseline  molds  on  a  baking 
sheet,  having  ice  around;  on  the  bottoms  form  an  eye  of  egg-white  and  truffle,  and  coat  the  mold 
with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594);  lay  the  cold  unmolded  larks  in  the  center  and  fill  up  with 
chaudfroid.  Turn  them  out  only  when  very  cold  and  arrange  them  around  the  galantine  with 
the  minion  fillets  between.  Decorate  around  the  socle  with  finely  chopped  jelly  made  with  the 
stock.  Bellevue  hatelets  may  be  fastened  in  the  top  of  galantine  if  so  desired. 

(2495).  GALANTINE  OF  PHEASANT  OUT  UP  (Galantine  de  Faisan  Decouple). 

This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  fastened  to  a  dish  and  covered  with  white  paper, 
having  in  its  center  a  small  convex-shaped  support  made  of  tin,  quite  low,  and  covered  with  whita 
paper.  Singe  two  clean  pheasants,  bone  the  largest  one  by  splitting  it  down  the  back,  remove  the 
meats  from  the  legs  and  decrease  the  thickness  from  the  breast  meat;  then  cut  this  up  into  large 
shreds  and  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  adding  the  breast  meat  of  the  other  pheasant,  pared  and  cut  the 
same;  also  add  strips  of  raw  truffle,  strips  of  blanched  fat  pork  or  udder,  strips  of  foies-gras  and 


FIG.  488. 

lastly  a  few  shreds  of  lean  cooked  ham  or  cooked  red  beef  tongue;  season  highly,  pour  over 
some  Madeira  wine  and  let  macerate  for  one  hour.  Chop  up  the  leg  meats  with  the  carcass  parings 
and  mix  them  with  a  chopped  forcemeat  made  of  game  meats  and  lean  veal  and  as  much  chopped 
fat  pork,  then  season.  With  this  chopped  forcemeat  and  the  macerated  meats  in  the  bowl 
prepare  the  boned  pheasant  the  same  as  the  boned  pullet  No.  2497,  sew  it  up  and  wrap  it 
in  a  cloth,  then  cook  it  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  cooling  it  off  afterward  under  a  weight.  Pare  the 
cold  boned  pheasant,  cut  it  in  slices  and  dress  them  one  overlapping  the  other  on  the  support,  and 
glaze  over  lightly  with  a  brush.  Surround  both  sides  of  these  slices  with  a  few  boned  larks  cov- 
ered with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  and  around  these  push  a  rope  of  chopped  jelly  through  a 
cornet;  surround  the  paper-covered  bottom  with  pretty  croutons  of  jelly,  and  on  one  end  of  the 
galantine  of  pheasant  stick  a  hatelet  garnished  with  truffles. 


758  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2496).  GALANTINE  OF  PIGEONS  (Galantine  de  Pigeons). 

Bone  three  large,  tender,  clean  and  singed  pigeons,  season  the  inside  meat  and  fill  them 
with  forcemeat  (No.  65),  mingled  with  a  little  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81)  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
truffles  cut  in  dice.  Return  them  to  their  former  shape,  sew  up  and  wrap  each  one  in  a  sepa- 
rate piece  of  muslin,  then  cook  them  for  one  hour  in  a  good  stock;  when  done  properly,  unwrap, 
tighten  more  and  let  get  cold  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight.  When  ready  to  use,  take  the  pigeons 
from  the  cloths,  glaze  them  over,  cut  in  slices  and  dress  with  jelly. 

(2497).  GALANTINE  OF  PULLET  OR  OAPON  A  LA  MOZAET   (Galantine   de   Poularde  ou  de 

Chapon  a  la  Mozart). 

This  cold  entree  can  be  dressed  on  a  support  slightly  higher  in  the  middle,  covered  with  cooked 
paste  (No.  131)  and  dried  in  the  air.  Singe  a  not  too  fat  pullet,  split  it  down  the  back,  bone  en- 
tirely, and  season  the  inside.  Prepare  this  pullet  the  same  as  a  galantine  of  turkey  a  la  Berger 
(No.  2499),  and  sew  it  up;  wrap  it  well  and  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  in  clear, 
unskimmed  stock  (No.  194a),  having  the  pullet  bones  added,  and  two  or  three  boned  and  blanched 


FIG.  489. 

calves'  feet,  some  roots,  onions  and  aromatic  herbs.  When  the  boned  pullet  has  cooked  tor  a 
sufficient  length  of  time,  drain  it  off  and  unwrap  it;  wrap  it  up  once  more  and  reshape  it,  tying  it 
very  tight,  and  then  place  it  to  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight.  When  cold,  pare  off  the  ends 
and  cut  it  up  into  equally  thick  slices,  and  divide  each  of  these  slices  into  two;  dress  them  neatly 
in  a  single  row  on  the  support;  garnish  around  with  cocks'-combs  and  mushrooms  covered  over 
with  chaudfroid,  intermingled  with  chopped  jelly,  and  besides  have  a  few  small  cases  filled  with 
glazed  truffles. 

(2498).  GALANTINE  OF  SUCKLING  PIG  (Galantine  de  Oochon  de  Lait). 

Prepare  a  suckling  pig  the  same  as  for  No.  1810,  singe  and  bone  it  completely  without  pierc- 
ing the  skin,  keeping  on  the  four  feet  and  removing  the  head.  Remove  the  meat  or  fat  from  the 
different  parts  where  there  is  too  much.  Stuff  the  galantine  with  a  salpicon  of  truffles,  one  pound 
of  red  tongue  mixed  with  pork  forcemeat  (No.  68)  and  a  pound  of  blanched  fat  pork — the  truffles, 
red  tongue  and  fat  pork  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares.  Season  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper 
(No.  168)  and  nutmeg;  wrap  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  roll  without  pulling  or  shortening  the  length  of  the 
skin  and  keeping  the  feet  in  their  natural  position.  Lay  it  in  a  braziere  lined  with  fat  pork  and 
garnish  around  with  vegetables  and  uncooked  pig's  feet;  moisten  with  white  wine,  season  with  salt 
and  whole  peppers,  and  let  cook  without  boiling  for  four  to  five  hours.  Drain,  cool,  unwrap  partly 
and  roll  up  again,  then  tie  the  cloth  firmly  at  both  ends  of  the  galantine,  and  hang  it  up  with  a 
sufficiently  strong  weight  on  the  bottom.  When  thoroughly  cold,  unwrap  and  glaze  it  a  dark 
color;  put  back  the  head,  which  has  been  blanched  for  half  an  hour  and  allowed  to  cool,  and  decorate 
the  whole  with  fanciful  cuts  of  egg-white,  tongue,  truffles,  gherkins  and  ornamental  hatelets;  dress 
on  a  rice  foundation  and  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  jelly  croutons. 

(2499).  GALANTINE  OF  TURKEY A  LA  BERGER-BONED  TURKEY  (Galantine  a  la  Berger). 

Bone  a  small  turkey  after  having  cut  off  the  wings,  the  legs  and  the  neck.  Begin  by  cutting 
the  skin  down  its  entire  length,  commencing  from  the  middle  of  the  neck  and  ending  at  the  middle 
ot  the  rump,  using  a  small  thin  knife  and  following  the  outlines  of  the  rib  bones;  then  remove  the 
breast  bone  and  the  second  joint  bones,  suppress  the  meat  from  the  latter  and  chop  it  up  finely; 
remove  all  sinews  from  the  fillets,  cut  away  a  part  of  their  thickness  and  place  them  where  the  legs 
were  taken  from.  Prepare  a  well-seasoned  chopped  forcemeat  (No.  65),  mix  well  together, 
adding  half  a  gill  of  brandy,  truffle  essence  (No.  395)  and  one  ounce  of  chopped  truffles.  Cut 
half  a  pound  of  fat  pork  into  half-inch  squares,  blanch  and  drain;  have  also  half  a  pound 
of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  cut  in  half-inch  squares,  five  ounces  of  peeled  truffles  cut  in 


COLD    SERVICE.  759 

pieces,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  duck  or  goose  livers,  parboiled,  cold  and  cut  in  half-inch 
dice.  With  this  and  the  forcemeat  stuff  the  turkey,  then  wrap  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  let  cook  in 
some  good  stock  for  two  hours.  Drain  off  well,  take  off  the  cloth  and  wrap  it  up  again  before 
setting  under  the  press.  When  thoroughly  cold  unwrap,  pare  and  cover  with  a  white  fecula 


FIG.  490. 


chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  593),  and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  very  black  truffles  and  pistachios 
dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  as  soon  as  this  is  quite  hard,  cover  with  half -set  jelly  and  dress  on  a 
trimmed  crouton  of  cooked  hominy  or  rice.  Garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly  and  have  an  outside 
border  of  jelly  croiitons.  Stick  one  Bellevue  hatelet  (No.  2526)  in  the  center  of  the  turkey,  and  two 
garnished  hatelets  (No.  2526)  on  each  side. 


GAKNISHINGS  FOE  COLD  DISHES  (Garnitures  Pour  Pieces  Froides), 


(2500).  GARNISHING  OP  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  PILLED  WITH  MACEDOINE  (Garniture   de 

Ponds  d'Artichauts  Garnis  de  Mace"doine). 

Artichoke  Bottoms. — Trim  some  small  round  artichoke  bottoms  two  inches  in  diameter;  rub 
over  with  lemon  and  blanch  in  plenty  of  water;  cook  them  in  a  white  stock  (No.  182)  seasoned 
with  salt  and  lemon  juice,  putting  in  also  half  a  pound  of  chopped  beef  marrow;  cover  with  but- 
tered paper  and  boil  slowly.  When  the  bottoms  are  well  done  remove  from  the  fire,  place  them  into 
a  stone  bowl,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  leave  to  cool  in  their  liquid;  wash  them  off  in  boiling 
water,  marinate  and  drain.  Lay  each  bottom  on  a  turnip  cut  out  to  imitate  the  base  of  a  vase,  and 
fill  with  either  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650)  or  a  separate  vegetable:  carrots,  turnips,  green  peas, 
cauliflower,  string  beans,  asparagus  tops,  crawfish  tails,  or  else  a  salpicon  of  tongue,  truffles  and 
mushrooms  mixed  in  even  parts  and  mingled  with  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

( 2501).  GARNISHING  OP  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  IMPERIAL  (Garniture  de  Ponds  d'Artichauts 

k  1'Impe'riale). 

Prepare  and  cook  some  artichoke  bottoms  as  in  No.  2500;  they  must  be  thick  and  not  too  broad; 
wipe  dry  and  lay  them  on  a  small  baking  sheet;  keep  on  ice.  Prepare  a  cooked  truffle  salad,  they 
to  be  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice,  small  green  asparagus  tops  and  celery  roots  cut  up  the  same  as  the 
truffles;  season  this  salad  with  salt,  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard.  Drain  off  this  seasoning  one  hour 
later  and  thicken  it  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  With  this  preparation  fill  the  hollow  parts 
of  the  artichoke  bottoms,  arranging  each  one  in  a  pyramid;  smooth  the  surface  and  cover  lightly 
with  jellied  mayonnaise,  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  gherkins  and  replace  on  the  ice  for  ten 
minutes  before  serving. 


760  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2502).  GAENISHING  OP  EGGS  A  LA  DEVELLE  (Garniture  d'ffiufs  a  la  Develle). 
Cut  in  two  cross  ways  seven  or  eight  shelled  hard-boiled  eggs;  use  only  the  halves  with  the 
rounded  ends  and  from  them  remove  all  the  yolks  and  rub  through  a  sieve;  put  this  into  a  small  vessel 
and  add  to  it  a  little  cold  aspic  jelly  (No.  103) ;  (scoop  the  whites  out  lightly).  Pound  the  cooked  meats 
of  a  small  lobster,  press  through  a  sieve  into  a  bowl  and  season  with  salt  and  a  dash  of  cayenne; 
add  first  two  spoonfuls  of  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  then  some  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 
606),  and  lastly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  cold  jelly;  stir  this  preparation  on  ice  to  harden,  then  take  up 
sufficient  of  it  with  a  spoon  and  fill  the  hollow  egg-whites,  smoothing  the  tops  dome-shaped;  lay 
them  in  the  ice  box;  when  cold  take  them  in  the  hand  one  by  one  and  dip  into  a  chaudfroid  sauce, 
but  only  on  the  garnished  side  and  as  far  down  as  this  begins;  have  the  sauce  hardened.  Dress 
on  jelly  rings  cut  out  with  a  pastry  cutter,  keeping  the  dish  very  cold.  When  the  eggs  are  ready 
decorate  the  tops  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles  and  a  few  small  shrimp  tails;  dip  them  one  by  one 
in  half-set  jelly  and  stand  them  upright,  each  one  inside  of  one  of  the  jelly  rings. 

(2503).  GAENISHING  OF  EGGS  A  LA  JAEDINIEEE  (Garniture  d'OBufs  a  la  Jardiniere). 

Divide  in  two  crossways  fifteen  hard-boiled  eggs;  keep  only  the  halves  having  the  roundest  end 
and  cut  these  off  so  that  they  stand  upright.  Remove  the  yolks  from  these  halves  and  scoop  the 
white  out  lightly,  then  fill  up  the  hollow  with  a  little  finely  cut  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650) 
dressed  with  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  smooth  them  into  a  dome  and  put  aside  on  ice,  then  cover  the 
dome  with  small  carrot  and  gherkin  balls  cut  in  halves;  brush  over  with  half -set  jelly  and  dress. 

(2504).  GAENISHING  OP  EGGS,  JULIETTE  (Garniture  d'ffiufs  Juliette). 

Fry  thin  slices  of  ham  in  butter  without  coloring;  drain  off  the  fat  and  place  the  ham  under  a 
weight;  detach  the  glaze  from  the  pan  with  a  little  Madeira  wine,  a  small  quantity  of  half-glaze  (No. 
400),  and  as  much  jelly  (No.  103) ;  reduce  well.  Pare  the  ham  into  half -hearts  and  cover  them  entirely 
with  the  sauce.  Decorate  a  timbale  mold  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  with  pistachios  and  truffles;  coat  the  dec- 
oration with  a  thick  layer  of  the  sauce  and  place  in  the  center  some  small  soft  eggs  just  cooked 
enough  to  allow  to  peel;  on  these  lay  the  ham,  shredded  fine,  and  the  remainder  of  the  sauce;  when 
perfectly  cold  fill  up  with  jelly,  and  as  this  becomes  thoroughly  cold  invert  the  whole  on  a  dish, 
having  a  layer  of  jelly  on  its  bottom;  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2505).  GAENISHING  OF  EGGS  A  LA  JUSTINE  (Garniture  d'ffiufs  a  la  Justine). 

Boil  hard  seven  or  eight  eggs;  when  very  cold,  drain  and  shell.  Incrust  in  pounded  ice  seven 
or  eight  tin  molds  the  shape  of  half  eggs,  only  just  a  little  wider  and  higher;  coat  these  with  jelly. 
Cut  each  egg  length  way?  in  two;  take  out  the  yolks  and  scoop  out  the  whites  with  a  vegetable  spoon, 
leaving  only  a  thin  envelope;  fill  the  empty  inside  of  these  half  eggs  with  a  chicken  "  pain  "  prep- 
aration (No.  2543),  having  it  lightly  buttered.  Take  up  the  stuffed  eggs  one  by  one  on  a  wide 
fork  passed  under  the  flat  side;  dip  them  in  a  good  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  reduced  with 
pheasant  fumet  (No.  397);  drain  off  the  sauce  and  let  the  eggs  cool,  then  pare  the  surplus  of  it,  and 
decorate  with  thin  cuts  of  truffles  and  gherkins;  now  place  a  half  egg  in  each  mold,  and  pour  cold 
jelly  around  to  fill  up  the  spaces;  when  cold,  unmold  and  dress  in  a  rosette  as  a  garnishing. 

(2506).  GAENISHING  OF  EGGS  A  LA  EOUEOAISE  (Garniture  d'ffiufs  a  la  Eouennaise). 

Divide  in  two  lengthways  seven  or  eight  shelled  hard-boiled  eggs;  take  out  the  yolks  to  pound 
and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Harden  on  a  small  baking  sheet  on  ice  a  layer  of  fine  jelly,  having  it 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  from  this  cut  out  with  a  heated  pastry  cutter  eight  oval  crusts,  having 
them  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  one  and  a  quarter  inches  wide;  form  rings  of  these  with  a 
narrower  pastry  cutter,  and  detach  them  from  the  pan  by  warming  it  underneath;  dress  them  in  a 
rosette  on  a  cold  dish  and  keep  it  on  ice.  Fill  the  half  eggs  with  a  salpicon  of  cooked  duckling 
fillets  mixed  with  mushrooms  and  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594)  mixed  with  soubise  sauce 
(No.  543);  smooth  the  preparation  into  domes,  and  cover  the  eggs  entirely  with  a  thin  layer  of 
white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596).  When  this  is  quite  cold,  decorate  the  surfaces  with  fanciful 
cuts  of  truffles  and  with  strings  of  pounded  egg-yolk  mixed  with  chaudfroid;  lay  one  egg  inside  of 
each  jelly  ring. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


761 


2507).  GAENISHING  OP  EGGS,  BAEEEL-SHAPED  (Garniture  d'CEufs  en  Forme  de  Baril), 

Cut  off  both  ends  of  seven  or  eight  shelled  hard-boiled  (eggs  imitate  the  shape  of  a  small 
barrel);  empty  them  from  top  to  bottom  with  a  small  tin  tube,  and  fill  up  the  hole  with  a  salpicon 
of  lobster  and  truffles  mingled  with  a  thick  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  and 
let  stand  on  ice  for  half  an  hour.  On  removing  them,  decorate  the  sides  with  thin  fillets  of 
anchovies,  dipped  in  half-set  jelly,  and  cover  over  the  top  platform  with  a  pyramid  of  chopped  jelly. 


(2508).  GAENISHING  OF  HAED-BOILED  EGGS,  BASKET-SHAPED  (Garniture 
d'CEufs  Durs  en  Forme  de  Corbeille). 

Cut  off  straight  the  ends  of  the  hard-boiled  egg  and  across  through  the 
center;  take  out  the  yolk  from  the  upper  parts,  and  fill  them  to  a  pointed 
shape  with  a  salpicon  of  vegetables  cut  in  small  squares,  and  combined  with 
a  little  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  or  simply  fill  them  with  jelly. 


Vio.  491. 


*2509).  GAENISHING  OF  HAED  EGGS  IN  CHAUDFEOID  (Garniture  d'CEufs  Durs  en  Chaudfroid). 

Have  two  oval  pastry  cutters — one  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  one  and  quarter  wide,  and 
another  half  an  inch  less  in  diameter;  cut  some  slices  of  very  red  cooked  beef  tongue  three-six- 
teenths of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  them  into  ovals  with  the  largest  cutter;  remove  the  center  with 
the  smallest  cutter;  glaze  over  the  rings  with  a  brush  and  dress  on  the  bottom  of  a  cold  dish.  Cut 
lengthways  in  two  six  shelled  hard-boiled  eggs,  take  out  the  yolks,  garnish  each  half  with  a  foies- 
gras  puree  preparation,  having  chopped  truffles  added;  smooth  the  surfaces  dome-shaped.  Dip 
the  half-stuffed  eggs  into  a  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594),  thickened  to  a  proper  consistency, 
and  drain  off  the  surplus,  then  dress  a  half  egg  into  each  ring.  After  the  sauce  is  thoroughly  cold 
decorate  the  tops  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  and  dress. 


(2510).  GAENISHING  OF  HALVED  HAED-BOILED  EGGS  (Garniture  de 
Horde's  d'CEufs  Durs). 

Cut  some  hard-boiled  eggs  lengthwise  in  two  even  parts,  and  a  third  across 
on  the  most  rounded  end;  try  and  obtain  the  eggs  all  of  even  size.  Dress 
the  border  so  that  the  yolks  face  the  exterior  of  the  dish;  on  top  of  the  whites 
place  a  small  lozenge  of  angelica,  or  one  of  very  thin  and  very  red  beetroot, 
Which  ever  is  used  should  be  cut  very  thin.  All  egg  borders  should  be  dressed 
very  regularly. 


FIG.  492. 


(2511).  GAENISHING  OF  EGGS,  MOSOOVITE  (Garniture  d'CEufs  Moscovite). 
Have  a  thin  layer  of  aspic  jelly  (No.  103)  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  harden  on  ice  on  a  small 
baking  sheet;  from  it  cut  out  with  a  hot  pastry  cutter  seven  or  eight  rings  sufficiently  large  to  hold  up 
the  eggs  inside  of  them.  Cut  crossways,  two-thirds  from  the  top,  seven  or  eight  shelled  hard- 
boiled  eggs;  take  out  the  yolks  and  pound  them  with  a  few  anchovies  and  a  piece  of  butter;  rub 
this  through  a  coarse  sieve  so  it  falls  through  like  vermicelli,  and  keep  cold.  Scoop  out  the 
insides  of  the  eggs  lightly  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  and  fill  them  with  a  fine  salpicon  of  crawfish 
mingled  with  thick  tartar  sauce  (No.  631);  leave  for  two  minutes  on  ice;  smooth  the  preparation 
into  a  dome  form,  and  lay  the  eggs  inside  the  jelly  rings,  to  stand  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer 
on  ice.  After  they  are  removed  take  up  the  vermicelli  yolks  with  a  fork,  and  cover  the  domes  of 
the  eggs  with  it. 

(2512).  GAENISHING  OF  EGGS,  POLISH  STYLE  (Garniture  d'CEufs  a  la  Polonaise). 

Cut  in  small  dice  the  cooked  meats  of  some  lobster  claws,  add  to  this  salpicon  the  same 
quantity  of  oysters  poached  in  white  wine  and  half  as  much  salt,  cucumber  or  gherkin,  and 
beside  this  the  white  of  seven  or  eight  hard-boiled  eggs,  also  cut  up  in  small  dice;  season  the 
salpicon  with  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard,  and  let  macerate  for  one  hour;  drain  on  a  sieve  and  return 
it  to  the  same  vessel  to  combine  with  some  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  Dress  this  preparation  in  a 
small  croustade,  smooth  the  top  and  decorate  with  the  egg-yolks  pounded  with  a  little  ravigote 
butter  (No.  583)  pushed  through  a  cornet. 


762 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  493. 


(2513).  GARNISHING  OF  DECORATED  QUARTERED  EGGS  (Garniture  d'Otofe  Durs  en  Quartiers 

De"core"s). 

Choose  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  all  of  uniform  size;  cut  them  across  the  rounded  ends  and  then 
lengthwise  in  four  even-sized  quarters;  dress  them  so  that  the  yolks 
face  outward.  The  whites  may  be  decorated  with  small  fanciful  cuts 
of  very  black  truffles,  red  tongue  and  pistachios,  by  dipping  them  into 
half -set  jelly,  and  applying  them  tastefully  on  the  very  cold  eggs 
(Fig.  493). 

(2514).  HARD-BOILED  EGGS  STUPFED  WITH  SALPICON 

((Eufs  Durs  Farcis  au  Salpicon). 

Incorporate  some  rather  firm  jelly  into  a  little  puree  of  foies- 
gras,  spread  it  out  on  a  baking  sheet  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness 
and  leave  to  cool.  With  a  pastry  cutter  remove  from  it  some 
rounds  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  these  remove  the  center 
with  an  inch  and  a  quarter  pastry  cutter.  Place  these  rings  in 

small  shallow  crimped  paper  cases.     Cut  some  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two  through  the  center  of 
their  height,  empty  the  interior  of  each  half  and  refill  them  to  a  point  with  a 
half-inch  salpicon  of  chicken,  truffles,  tongue  and  mushrooms,  combined  with 
a  little  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  strew  chopped  parsley  over.     Lay  these 
eggs  on  the  rings  and  cover  lightly  with  jelly. 

(2515).  GARNISHING  OF  HARD-BOILED  EGGS,  VASE  SHAPE  (Garniture 

d'OZufs  Durs  en  Forme  de  Vase). 

Cut  off  a  third  of  the  length  of  the  egg;  use  the  most  rounded  end  for 
the  upper  part  and  the  pointed  end  for  the  base;  stick  these  two  parts  to- 
gether with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596);  take  out  the  yolk  and  replace  it  by 
chopped  jelly  (Fig.  494).  Fm  494 

(2516).  GARNISHING  OF  WHOLE  HARD-BOILED  EGG-YOLKS  (Garniture 

de  Jaunes  d'(Eufs  Durs  Entiers). 

Have  some  small,  even-sized  hard-boiled  egg-yolks;  stand  them  on  rings 
cut  from  gherkins  or  beef  tongue;  lay  in  a  circle  a  fillet  of  anchovy  two- 
thirds  the  height  of  these  yolks;  besprinkle  the  inside  of  this  circle  with 
finely  chopped  truffles,  and  on  top  place  a  green  pistachio  nut  (Fig.  495). 


(2517).  MUSHROOMS  STUFFED  AND  GLAZED  WITH  OHAUDFROID 

(Champignons  Farcis  Glace"s  au  Chaudfroid). 
Select  even-sized  mushrooms  about  an  inch  in 
diameter;  empty  out  the  interiors  and  fill  them  up 
with   foies-gras   rubbed   through   a  sieve.     Fasten 
FIG.  495.  them  together,  two  by  two,  to  form  a  ball,  then 

glaze  over  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594);    lay 

them  on  top  of  a  ring  of  cooked  beef  tongue  and  on  the  summit  place  a 
circle  cut  from  hard-boiled  egg-white:  fill  the  center  of  this  circle  with 
a  round  piece  of  very  black  truffle  and  coat  the  whole 
with  half-set  jelly  (Fig.  496). 

(2518).  GARNISHING  OF  STUFFED  SPANISH  FIQ.  496. 

OLIVES  (Garniture  d'Olives  d'Espagne  Farcies). 

Stone  some  large  Spanish  olives  with  a  tin  tube  sufficiently  large  to  remove 
the  stone;  pare  the  olives  very  straight  at  both  ends  and  fill  up  the  hollow 
space  with  anchovy  butter  (No.  569);  on  top  of  the  butter  lay  a  green  pistachio 
nut  (Fig.  497). 

(2519).  GARNISHING  OF  OYSTERS  IN  CROUSTADES  (Garniture  d'Huitres 

en  Oroustades). 

Drain  and  wipe  some  large  blanched  oysters;  remove  the  muscle  part  and  replace  it  by  a  round 
piece  of  lobster  cut  the  same  size.     Make  some  small  oval  fine  foundation  paste  croustades;  cover 


Fio.  497. 


COLD    SERVICE.  763 

the  insides  with  buttered  paper,  fill  with  rice,  bake  and  empty;  fill  them  halfway  up  with  cooked 
mushrooms,  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  mingled  with  a  little  well-seasoned  blond 
chaudfroid,  made  by  mixing  a  little  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594)  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596), 
and  over  these  lay  the  oysters;  put  in  a  layer  of  half-set  jelly,  applying  it  with  a  brush,  and  deco- 
rate each  croustade  with  chervil  leaves;  cover  with  more  jelly. 

(2520).  GAENISHING  OF  OYSTERS  WITH  JELLY  (Garniture  d'Huitres  a  la  Gele"e). 
Open  some  large  oysters,  poach,  remove  the  muscle  and  split  them  in  two  through  their 
thickness;  cover  both  sides  with  a  layer  of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613)  and  reshape  them  as  before; 
then  lay  them  slightly  apart  on  a  baking  sheet;  brush  the  surfaces  several  times  with  half-set  jelly, 
and  keep  them  for  a  few  moments  on  ice;  afterward  remove  by  cutting  away  the  jelly  all  around 
with  a  plain  pastry  cutter  dipped  in  hot  water;  detach  the  oysters  from  the  sheet,  heating  this  un- 
derneath, then  dress. 

(2521).  HAM  DEOOEATED  A  LA  GATTI  (Jambon  De'corS  a  la  Gatti). 

Have  a  ham  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  jelly  (No.  2524);  leave  a  part  of  the  rind  on 
the  handle  end,  and  cut  it  into  sharp  points  by  raising  up  the  edge  of  each  point  on  one  side;  glaze 
the  ham  with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  all  except  the  rind,  which  must  be  glazed  with  meat  glaze 
(No.  402). 


Decorate  around  the  ham  with  a  design  of  branches  made  of  fillets  of  truffles  and  very  green 
pistachios;  decorate  the  top  with  a  rosette  of  truffles.  Place  the  ham  on  a  silver  dish,  having  two 
tiers  covered  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583);  decorate  around  the  dish  bottom  with  halved  eggs 
filled  with  chopped  jelly,  as  shown  in  Fig.  498;  surround  the  ham  with  chopped  jelly,  and  the  base 
with  square  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442).  Insert  a  piece  of  wood  to  take  the  place  of  the  handle, 
and  trim  it  with  a  fancy  frill  (No.  10),  and  a  hatelet  on  one  side. 

(2522).  HAM  GLAZED  WITH  SUGAE  (Jambon  Glac6  au  Sucre). 

Hams  are  usually  purchased  already  salted  and  smoked,  for  the  pickling  only  succeeds  when  a 
large  quantity  are  done  at  one  time.  The  most  essential  point  to  observe  is  to  have  them  recently 
smoked,  of  a  young  pig  of  a  good  breed.  The  easiest  way  to  cook  a  ham  is  as  follows:  Cut  off  the 
end  handle  of  a  ten  pound  ham,  shorten  the  loin  bone,  suppress  a  thin  layer  of  the  outside  of  the 
ham  that  is  oversmoked,  and  then  soak  it  for  three  hours  in  water;  afterward  place  it  in  a  large 
soup-pot  or  sauce-pan,  covering  with  cold  water;  stand  the  vessel  on  the  fire  and  bring  it  gradu- 
ally to  a  boil,  then  drain  off  this  water,  and  replace  it  by  tepid  water;  add  some  whole  spices  and 
aromatics.  It  must  cook  about  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound,  or  two  and  a  half  hours  in  all. 
Take  the  vessel  from  off  the  fire,  and  leave  the  ham  to  cool  in  its  liquid.  Remove,  drain  thor- 
oughly, lift  off  the  rind,  and  pare  nicely,  keeping  it  a  pretty  shape;  bestrew  with  fine  sugar,  and 
stand  it  on  a  baking  tin;  glaze  to  a  fine  color  in  a  hot  oven,  remove,  and  when  cold  dress  it  on  a 
bread  foundation  covered  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583)  and  chopped  parsley;  surround  the  bottom 
of  the  dish  with  chopped  jelly  and  cut-out  croutons  (for  these  see  No.  2442). 


764 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(2523).  HAM  TRUFFLED  A  LA  FLOEIAN  (Jambon  Truffe  a  la  Florian). 
In  order  to  succeed  with  this  dish  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  have  an  oval  bomb-shaped 
copper-tinned  mold,  nine  and  a  half  inches  long,  six  and  three-quarters  inches  wide  and  four  inches 
deep.  This  mold  must  be  oiled  on  the  outside  and  laid  on  an  oiled  marble  slab,  having  the  opening 
downward;  around  it  place  an  iron  ring  twelve  inches  in  length,  ten  inches  wide  and  five  and  a 
half  inches  deep;  place  this  ring  in  such  a  way  that  the  mold  will  fit  exactly  in  its  center,  fill  the 
space  between  the  mold  and  the  ring  with  plaster  of  Paris  wetted  with  a  little  water;  smooth  the 


FIG.  499. 

top  nicely  and  leave  it  to  harden;  turn  this  ring  over  and  take  out  the  mold.  Pare  a  twelve- 
pound  freshly  salted  smoked  ham  neatly,  unsalt  it  for  ten  hours,  and  boil  it  in  water  for  an  hour 
'and  a  half,  then  braise  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419)  for  three  hours  or  more  until 
the  bones  are  easily  detached  from  the  meat;  remove  them,  and  pare  the  ham  shapely,  suppressing 
the  skin  and  all  the  smoked  parts,  then  lard  it  in  every  direction  with  quartered  truffles  and 
pistachios.  Place  this  ham  in  the  mold,  the  mold  in  the  ring  filled  with  plaster,  and  on  the  ham 
lay  a  board  one  inch  less  in  diameter  than  the  mold,  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Put  under  the  press 
(No.  71),  and  when  cold  unmold  and  trim.  Glaze  over  with  pink  chaudfroid,  decorate  with  truffles 
and  pistachios  dipped  in  half-set  jelly,  cover  over  with  jelly  and  lay  it  on  a  carved  rice  socle,  hav- 
ing this  ranged  on  an  oval  dish.  Decorate  the  top  with  three  hatelets,  and  around  with  chopped 
jelly  and  a  border  of  jelly  croutons  (see  Fig.  461). 

(2524).  ENGLISH  HAM  WITH  JELLY  (Jambon  Anglais  a  la  Gel6e). 

If  freshly  salted  and  smoked  it  is  unnecessary  to  soak  it;  simply  wash  off  in  warm  water,  pare 
and  saw  the  handle  bone  short,  then  put  it  into  a  large  vessel,  cover  with  cold  water  and  bring  this 


FIG.  500. 


to  a  boil,  adding  aromatic  herbs;  close  the  lid  and  leave  to  boil  for  three  hours  slowly,  but  continu- 
ously and  regularly.  Remove  the  vessel  from  the  fire  and  allow  the  ham  to  cool  off  in  this  liquor. 
(A  ham  is  cooked  when  the  meat  on  the  handle  bone  becomes  soft.)  Drain  it  off,  suppress  the 


COLD    SERVICE.  765 

thick  end  bone  and  a  part  of  the  rind,  leaving  the  leg  end  covered;  pare  and  remove  all  the 
upper  part  to  cut  up  into  even  slices.  Lay  the  ham  on  an  oval  wooden  board  covered  with 
white  paper  and  fastened  on  a  dish,  dress  the  cut  slices  in  a  circle  on  top  of  the  ham  and  fill  the 
center  with  chopped  jelly;  glaze  the  rind  and  the  remaining  whole  piece  with  a  brush  and  surround 
the  base  with  a  string  of  thick  jelly  pushed  through  a  pocket;  dress  fine  triangles  of  jelly  (No.  2442) 
all  around;  fasten  a  jelly-decorated  hatelet  in  the  opposite  end  from  the  handle,  slanting  it  outward 
(see  drawing,  Fig.  501). 

(2525).  HAMS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  ZAMPINO  (Jambons  de  Poulet  Garnis  de  Zampino). 

Bone  thoroughly  two  good  chickens  weighing  two  pounds  each,  leaving  on  only  the  drumstick 
bones;  separate  each  one  in  two  lengthwise,  season  and  fill  each  half  with  galantine  forcemeat  (No. 
65)  and  long  shreds  of  cooked  veal  udder,  also  of  very  red  beef  tongue,  raw  foies-gras  and  quartered 
raw  truffles,  proceeding  exactly  the  same  as  for  boned  chicken  (No.  2485) ;  bring  the  meats  close 
together  in  order  to  sew  up  and  wrap  each  of  the  halved  boned  chickens  in  a  white  cloth;  cook  for 
one  hour  in  unskimmed  white  broth  (No.  194a);  drain  the  galantines  and  unwrap;  lay  on  a  baking 
sheet  some  bottomless  molds  in  the  shape  of  hams,  having  a  slot  in  the  thin  end  to  allow  the  drum- 
stick to  pass  through,  place  the  chickens  in  these  and  let  get  cold  under  the  pressure  of  a  light 
weight.  Pare  and  disengage  the  pinion  bone.  They  may  now  be  cut  in  slices,  reconstructing 
them  as  before,  and  keeping  in  shape  with  a  thin  skewer;  cover  the  entire  surface  with  white 
chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  that  has  become  slightly  thickened  on  ice.  After  this  sauce  is  cold 
cover  over  the  hams  on  the  drumstick  end  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  imitating  the  real 
skin  of  a  pared  ham;  trim  each  ham  bone  with  a  frill  (No.  10);  dress  them  two  by  two  on  a  rice 
foundation,  withdraw  the  skewers  and  decorate  the  hams  with  fanciful  cuts  of  very  black  truffles; 
surround  with  thin  slices  of  zampino  three  inches  in  diameter  and  cut  in  two  across  and  dress 
them  around  the  foundation,  one  overlapping  the  other.  Surround  with  a  piping  of  chopped 
jelly  and  some  jelly  croutons. 

Zampino  of  Modena. — Take  one  leg  of  a  fresh  pig  about  fifteen  inches  long,  leaving  the 
foot  adhering;  bone  it  carefully  not  to  split  the  skin,  turn  the  skin  back  and  then  .remove  the 
meat  and  fat;  salt  the  skin  plentifully,  and  leave  it  in  brine  for  four  to  five  days.  After 
this  time  chop  up  coarsely  ten  pounds  of  lean  pork  meat  with  five  pounds  of  beef,  and  mix  these 
with  five  pounds  of  very  finely  chopped  fresh  pork  rind.  Season  the  mixture  with  ten  ounces  of 
salt,  one  ounce  of  crushed  black  pepper  corns,  a  heavy  pinch  of  cinnamon,  a  small  pinch  of 
saltpeter  and  one  gill  of  red  wine;  mingle  thoroughly.  Now  wash  the  skin  in  fresh  water  to  ex- 
tract all  the  salt,  turn  it  over  to  its  normal  position,  and  fill  it  with  the  above  mixture;  tie  it  firmly 
at  the  extreme  end,  and  enwrap  with  a  strong  inch-wide  tape,  beginning  at  the  smallest  end  of  the 
zampino  (that  is,  near  the  foot).  Lay  the  zampino  in  a  large  kettle,  cover  plentifully  with  cold 
water,  and  stand  it  on  a  slow  fire  to  have  the  liquid  almost  reach  boiling  point;  then  remove  the 
kettle  to  a  corner  of  the  range  and  let  barely  bubble  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  an  hour  and  three- 
quarters.  Take  from  the  fire  and  leave  to  cool  in  the  liquid;  drain  and  remove  the  tape.  This 
zampino  can  be  served  hot  with  string  beans  as  described  in  No.  1820. 


(2526).  MISCELLANEOUS  COLD  HATELETS,  BELLEVUE  VEGETABLES;  CEOUTONS, 
CHOPPED  TRAN3PAEENT  JELLY  AND  STICKY  CHOPPED  JELLY  (Hatelets 
Proids  Divers  en  Bellevue,  de  Legumes;  de  Croutons  et  Gel6e  Hach^e  Transparente  et 
de  Gele"e  Hacked  Collante). 

Cold  hatelets  are  to  be  prepared  with  plain  or  double  white  cocks'-combs  enveloped  in 
jelly,  and  round,  black,  unpeeled  truffles  glazed  over  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  Others  are 
made  of  trussed  crawfish  from  which  the  small  legs  have  been  suppressed  and  the  body  shells 
rubbed  over  with  a  little  oil,  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118)  coated  with  jelly,  chicken  or  game 
qaenelles  (No.  91),  decorated  and  molded  in  Bellevue  or  simply  covered,  or  else  carved  veg- 
etables blanched  separately.  These  hatelets  can  also  be  composed  of  crawfish,  lemons,  truffles 
and  mushrooms,  having  one  small  glazed  truffle  on  top,  a  lightly  oiled  trussed  crawfish  under 
this  truffle,  and  then  a  fine  channeled  glazed  mushroom,  having  the  upper  part  rounded,  then  a 
lemon  cut  into  points;  first  one-half  of  the  lemon,  placed  with  the  points  upward,  then  a  round 
piece  of  truffle  and  the  other  half  of  the  lemon,  the  points  downward,  and  finished  with  a  glazed 
channeled  mushroom,  having  the  rounded  end  toward  the  bottom. 


766 


TTIE    EPICUREAN, 


Lean  Hatelets  for  Fish  are  composed  of  shrimps,  crawfish,  truffles,  mushrooms  or  lemon. 
Cocks'-combs  are  not  admissible  for  this  kind  of  hatelets. 

Bellevue  Hatelets. — Prepare  these  hatelets  as  follows:  Cut  out  with  a  tin  tube  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  small  rounds  of  chicken,  cooked 
beef  tongue  and  truffles;  take  pieces  from  the  center  with  a  smaller  tin  tube  one-eighth  of  an  inch 


FIG.  501. 


in  diameter;  run  a  hatelet  through  six  of  these  rounds,  beginning  first  by  putting  a  small  round 
whole  truffle,  then  a  round  of  chicken,  tongue  and  truffle;  begin  again  with  another  round  of 
chicken,  tongue  and  truffle,  leaving  a  space  between  each.  Cut  off  the  upper  crust  of  a  loaf  of 
bread,  this  to  be  six  inches  high;  spread  over  the  top  to  replace  the  crust  a  layer  of  butter  a 


FIG.  502. 


FIG.  503. 


FIG.  504. 


quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  on  top  place  the  hatelet  cases  or  molds  (Fig.  501);  run  through  the  metal 
hatelets  decorated  with  the  rounds  exactly  in  the  center,  stand  them  upright,  then  fill  the 
molds  with  cold  jelly  (No.  103)  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  for  several  hours.  When  ready  to 
serve  the  pieces  unniold  these  hatelets  and  run  a  fine  unpeeled,  round  and  black  truffle  on  each 
one,  then  stick  them  into  the  piece.  Carrots  and  turnips  can  be  substituted  for  the  chicken  and 
tongue. 

Vegetable  Hatelets. — These  hatelets  are  composed  of  vegetables  or  roots,  imitating  vases  of 
various  kinds;  they  are  turned  and  carved  with  a  knife,  and  formed  of  several  pieces,  then  filled 
with  artificial  flowers  made  of  vegetables,  such  as  roses,  camelias,  lilies,  or  daisies;  these  flowers  are 
colored  by  dipping  them  in  a  solution  of  aniline  dissolved  in  alcohol  and  diluted  with  water.  If 
these  flowers  are  well  made  they  can  imitate  the  natural  ones  most  marvelously.  They  can  be 
used  plain,  without  any  coloring,  but  this  is  a  matter  of  taste. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


767 


For  Chopped  Transparent  Jelly  the  fragments  of  jelly  croutons  are  generally  used,  chopping 
them  on  a  moistened  cloth  with  a  large  knife;  they  should  be  chopped  sufficiently  fine,  still  not 
allowing  them  to  get  thick  looking;  they  may  also  be  cut  into  small  fine  lengthwise  strips,  afterward 
cutting  them  across  in  small  squares;  in  this  way  they  are  sure  to  remain  transparent. 


FIG.  505.  FIG.  506.  FIG.  507. 

Sticky  Chopped  Jelly  is  used  for  pushing  through  a  pocket  or  paper  cornet  around  a  cold  meat 
piece,  and  is  also  frequently  used  to  cover  the  surface  of  a  hJgh  foundation  that  is  to  be  used  as  a 
support.  In  order  to  obtain  a  sticky  jelly,  chop  it  up  on  a  wet  cloth,  and  sprinkle  it  over  from  time 
to  time  with  some  hot  water,  until  it  forms  into  a  soft  compact  mass.  This  must  be  used  at  once. 

(2527).  KEKNEL  0?  VEAL  WITH  MAYONNAISE  TOMATOED  SAUCE  (Noix  de  Veau  a  la  Sauce 

Mayonnaise  Tomatee). 

Lard  thoroughly  a  kernel  of  veal  with  ham  and  fat  pork,  cover  it  with  slices  of  udder,  and 
then  braise.  Have  a  dome-shaped  terrine  or  mold;  put  the  kernel  in;  strain  in  the  stock,  add  to 
it  a  little  gelatine  if  not  consistent  enough,  and  when  cold  turn  it  on  a  dish.  Remold  into  another 
mold  of  similar  shape,  but  an  inch  larger  in  diameter,  decorated  with  cuts  of  vegetables;  fill  with 
jelly  and  when  cold  dress  it  on  a  carved  rice  socle  and  garnish  around  with  balls  of  turnips  and 
carrots,  blanched  and  cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a)  with  a  little  sugar,  and  glazed;  dress  a  butter 
border  (No.  2444)  or  one  of  vegetables  (No.  2443)  on  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  serve  apart  a 
mayonnaise  (No.  606)  with  some  tomato  puree  (No.  730)  added. 

(2528).  KINGFISH  FILLETS  A  LA  VALENQAY  (Filets  de  Zingfish  a  la  Vale^ay). 
Pare  oblong  shape  and  cook  ten  to  twelve  small  fillets  of  kingfish  in  a  sautoir  with  white  wine 
court-bouillon  (No.  39);  drain  and  let  cool  under  a  weight;  trim  them  nicely,  dip  them  singly  into 
a  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  ranging  them  immediately  on  to  a  baking  sheet  to  cool  off  the 


FIG.  508. 


sauce,  then  pare  off  the  surplus  of  it.  Decorate  a  third  part  of  them  on  the  smooth  side  with 
fancitul  cuts  of  truffles  or  gherkins;  cover  them  over  with  half-set  jelly  applied  with  a  brush,  and 
let  this  get  cold,  then  dress  them  on  an  inch-high  socle  in  pyramid  form,  placing  the  decorated  ones 
on  top.  On  one  side  fasten  a  hatelet  garnished  with  shrimps.  Uphold  the  fillets  of  fish  on  both 


768  THE    EPICUREAN. 

sides  with  thick  chopped  jelly  pushed  through  a  cornet  and  surround,  both  right  and  left,  with  five 
or  six  large  crawfish  bodies,  emptied  and  refilled  with  a  salpicon  of  crawfish  or  lobster  tails,  com- 
bined with  a  salad  of  small  vegetables  dressed  with  mayonnaise  (No.  606).  Stand  these  bodies  up- 
right to  form  a  half  circle,  and  brush  over  with  half-set  jelly;  surround  the  base  of  the  dish  with 
fine  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442),  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

(2529),  CHICKEN  LEGS  SHAPED  AS  DUCKLINGS  (Cuisses  de  Poulet  en  forme  de  Canetons). 

Cut  the  leg  three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  joint.  Remove  the  bones  belonging  to  the 
second  joint,  as  well  as  a  third  part  of  the  drumsticks;  stuff  the  legs  with  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
89),  introducing  into  it  half  as  much  foies-gras  forcemeat  (No.  78);  mix  in  a  third  as  much  small 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares  of  tongue  and  mushroom,  half  of  each,  and  raw  fine  herbs. 
Shape  them  to  represent  ducklings.  Put  in  a  sautoir  some  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  place  the 
ducklings  one  beside  the  other.  Braise,  cool  and  pare  off  the  under  parts  neatly,  so  that  these 
imitated  ducklings  can  stand  plumb  on  their  base,  then  glaze  them  with  white  chaudfroid  (No. 
596),  and  form  the  wings  with  crawfish  claws.  Make  artificial  eyes  and  form  the  beak  by  cutting 
the  bone  slanting.  Surround  with  green  parsley  leaves,  and  serve  with  a  bowl  of  ravigote 
sauce  (No.  623). 

(2530).  LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  GARRISON  (Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Garrison). 

Line  a  buttered  saucepan  with  onions,  carrots  and  slices  of  round  of  veal,  slices  of  fat  pork  and 
ham;  in  the  middle  lay  a  leg  of  mutton  having  the  thick  loin  end  boned,  and  add  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  also  two  boned  calves'  feet;  moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a), 
white  wine  and  Madeira  wine,  a  pint  of  each;  let  fall  to  a  glaze  and  rernoisten  with  stock;  when  it 
begins  to  boil  skim  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper;  push  into  the  oven  for  four  or  five  hours  until 
the  leg  is  thoroughly  cooked,  then  transfer  it  to  an  oval  vessel  and  leave  till  cold.  Have  a  few 
dozen  carrots  and  turnips  cut  in  balls,  also  some  small  onions;  blanch  these  and  cook  each  kind  sepa- 
rately in  broth  (No.  194a);  when  fallen  to  a  glaze  allow  them  to  cool,  thickening  with  a  little  jelly 
(No.  103).  The  leg  being  cold,  trim  it  nicely,  glaze  over  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  dress  it  in 
the  center  of  a  dish  and  surround  with  the  jellied  vegetables  and  jelly  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch 
squares  arranged  in  clusters.  Decorate  the  leg  with  anchovy  fillets,  chervil  and  tarragon,  dipped 
in  half-set  jelly,  and  surround  by  horseradish  ribbons  (No.  98).  Skim  the  fat  from  the  stock,  add 
a  seasoning  of  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  mignonette,  capers  and  gherkins,  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat  when 
cold.  Place  on  the  bone  the  silver  handle  shown  in  Fig.  164. 

(2531).  LOBSTER  OR  SPINY  LOBSTER  A  LA  RAVIGOTE  (Homard  on  Langouste  a  la 

Ravigote). 

Boil  a  lobster  in  a  plain  court-bouillon  (No.  38)  and  let  it  cool  off  under  a  weight  with  the  tail 
stretched  out.  Remove  the  tail  meats  from  underneath,  leaving  the  shell  attached  to  the  body;  pare 
the  meats  on  the  thickest  end  and  cut  them  up  into  slightly  bias  slices  so  as  to  have  them  somewhat 
wider;  season  and  place  them  flat  on  a  tinned-copper  tray;  decorate  the  tops  with  lobster,  eggs, 
tarragon  leaves  and  chervil;  cover  the  decorations  with  half-set  jelly  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 
Break  the  shells  of  the  large  claws  so  as  to  remove  the  meats  and  divide  these  in  two  lengthwise, 
then  brush  them  over  with  half-set  aspic  jelly  (No.  103).  Cut  in  dice  the  meats  of  a  small  boiled 
lobster,  put  the  pieces  in  a  bowl  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  truffles,  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
cooked  mushrooms  and  raw  gherkins;  season  this  salpicon  and  stir  it  on  ice  into  some  thick 
mayonnaise  (No.  606),  and  with  it  cover  ten  to  twelve  small  cooked  equal-sized  artichoke  bottoms. 
Turn  over  the  lobster  body  and  fill  the  empty  tail  with  thick  jelly  pushed  through  a  pocket;  dress 
at  once  in  its  natural  state,  the  red  side  uppermost,  on  a  long  dish,  moistening  it  with  half-set 
jelly,  laid  on  with  a  brush,  to  prevent  the  lobster  from  slipping  off.  On  the  top  of  the  shell,  from 
one  end  to  the  other,  push  two  thick  strings  of  butter  previously  softened  in  a  cloth  and  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  apart;  between  these  strings  range  a  bed  of  chopped  jelly,  and  on  top  of  this  dress 
the  slices  of  lobster,  one  overlapping  the  other.  On  the  right  and  left  of  the  head  lay  the  jelly 
covered  claws  and  around  the  body  have  chopped  jelly  surrounded  with  the  garnished  artichoke 
bottoms,  and  around  them  a  border  of  pretty  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442).  Serve  at  the  same  time 
a  ravigote  sauce  (No.  623),  having  the  creamy  parts  of  the  lobster  added  to  it. 

(2532).  LOBSTER  IN  A  BORDER  (Homard  en  Bordure). 

Cut  into  quarter-inch  squares,  on  the  bias,  the  tail  meat  of  two  boiled  lobsters,  also  the  claws 
cut  into  four  pieces;  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish  and  season  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar.  Incrust  in 


COLD    SERVICE.  769 

ice  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig.  139),  coat  the  inside  with  clear  jelly  (No.  103);  cut  some  hard-boiled 
eggs  into  four  pieces,  that  is  once  lengthwise  and  then  each  half  egg  once  across;  fasten  to  the 
yolks  small  sprigs  of  green  chervil  dipped  in  jelly,  and  fill  the  border  mold  with  these  eggs;  then 
pour  into  the  bottom  a  little  melted  jelly;  let  it  set,  add  about  half  an  inch  more,  and  when 
this  begins  to  harden  fill  up  the  mold,  and  let  it  remain  on  ice  until  the  jelly  is  perfectly  firm; 
then  turn  the  mold  over  on  a  cold  dish.  Fill  the  inside  empty  space  as  high  as  the  jelly  with 
a  vegetable  salad  (No.  2650),  thickened  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  dress  on  top  the  slices 
of  lobster,  covering  the  whole  with  jellied  mayonnaise;  cover  with  more  jelly,  and  set  on  top  the 
claws  dipped  in  jelly.  A  mayonnaise  printaniere  (No.  612)  should  be  served  separately. 

(2533).  LOBSTER  TAILS  IN  THEIR  SHELLS  (Queues  de  Homards  dans  leurs  Coquilles). 

Detach  the  bodies,  claws  and  tails  from  five  small  cooked  lobsters;  open  the  claw  shells  to 
remove  the  meats.  Cut  the  five  lobster  tails  lengthways,  both  meat  and  shell  together;  remove  the 
meats  from  these  ten  halved  shells,  wipe  the  shells  neatly,  and  fill  the  bottoms  with  a  layer  of 
preparation  made  with  the  lobster  parings,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  mingled  with  a  little  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  606),  and  finished  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Season  the  tail  meats  and  cut  them 


FIG.  509. 

up  slanting  without  spoiling  their  shape,  and  dip  them  into  half-set  jelly;  then  replace  each  one  in 
its  half  shell,  the  red  side  uppermost,  and  lay  them  aside. in  a  cool  place.  This  entree  is  to  be 
dressed  on  a  dish  foundation  having  in  the  center  a  pyramidical  support,  both  of  which  are  to  be 
covered  with  white  paper,  then  with  a  layer  of  thick  chopped  jelly  pushed  through  a  pocket;  the 
halved  tails  are  to  be  dressed  with  the  points  upward,  five  on  each  side;  the  claws  are  to  stand 
upright  on  top  of  the  support,  and  surrounded  by  green  parsley  leaves.  The  base  of  the  halved 
tails  is  also  to  be  surrounded  by  fresh  parsley,  and  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  pretty  jelly 
croutons  (No.  2442).  As  soon  as  the  entree  is  dressed  place  it  in  the  ice-box  until  ready  to  serve, 
then  send  it  to  the  table  with  a  separate  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

(2534).  LOBSTER  OR  SPINY  LOBSTER  WITH  MAYONNAISE  (Horaard  ou  Langouste  k  la 

Mayonnaise). 

Cook  a  large  lobster;  drain  and  let  get  cold  with  the  tail  stretched  out.  Detach  the  large  claws 
and  divide  the  body  lengthwise  in  two;  remove  the  meats  whole  from  each  halved  tail,  and  cut 
them  up  slanting,  but  without  deforming  them.  Wipe  well  the  empty  tail  shells  and  fill  them  half 
way  with  chopped  jelly,  then  return  the  meats  to  the  shells  upside  down  so  that  the  red  part  is 
uppermost.  Suppress  the  black  vein  from  the  center  of  the  bodies,  also  the  creamy  parts,  and  rub 
these  through  a  sieve  and  add  them  to  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606).  Dress  the  two  halves  of 
the  lobster  on  a  napkin  or  dish,  and  in  the  hollow  space  formed  by  the  shells  place  a  bunch  of 
parsley  leaves;  on  this  dress  the  lobster  claws  in  their  shells,  after  suppressing  half  of  them,  and 
surround  the  lobster  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  string  of  chopped  jelly,  and  around  this  lay 
either  croutons  of  jelly  or  halved  hard-boiled  eggs  filled  with  a  salad  of  vegetables  (No.  2650); 
serve  the  mayonnaise  sauce  separately. 

(2535).  MOUSSELINES  OF  POIES-GRAS  A  LA  DANA  (Mousselines  de  Poies-Gras  a  la  Dana). 

Prepare  a  frothy  preparation  with  foies-gras  in  the  following  manner:  Pound  one  pound  of  foies- 
gras  taken  from  a  terrine,  pass  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  season,  lay  it  in  a  thin  iron  vessel  and  beat 
well,  adding  a  gill  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  two  gills  of  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594),  tc 


770  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

make  the  preparation  of  a  good  consistency  when  cold.  After  it  has  become  smooth  stir  in  slowly 
the  equal  quantity  of  a  pint  of  well-drained  whipped  cream  without  sugar.  Range  on  pounded  ice 
fifteen  quenelle  molds  (Fig.  76);  cover  the  insides  of  these  to  half  their  height  with  the  frothy 
preparation,  forming  a  hollow  in  the  center,  and  into  this  lay  a  slice  of  foies-gras  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  thick  and  cut  egg-shaped;  finish  filling  the  molds  with  the  same  preparation,  smooth 
the  tops,  having  them  perfectly  fiat,  and  then  set  the  molds  on  ice  for  one  hour.  Dip  them  into 
hot  water,  unmold  the  mousselines  on  a  cold  baking  sheet  and  cover  each  one  with  brown 
chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594).  After  this  has  become  quite  cold  dress  the  mousselines  in  a 
pyramid  inside  a  jelly  border.  Garnish  around  the  border  with  clear  jelly  cut  into  very  small 
dice,  and  outside  of  this  place  a  row  of  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2536).  MOUSSELINE  OF  KINGFISH  A  LA  BKIEKE  (Mousseline  de  Kingfish  a  la  Briere). 

Scale  two  or  three  fresh  kingfish,  weighing  about  two  pounds;  suppress  the  head  and  thin  tail 
end,  the  fins  and  gills.  Put  into  a  sautoir  two  soupspoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  and  shallots,  add 
half  a  pound  of  clarified  butter  cooked  to  hazelnut  (No.  567)  and  fry  the  onions  and  shallots 
lightly;  put  in  the  well-wiped  fish  and  season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  a  pinch  of 
thyme  leaves  and  bay  leaf ;  fry  over  a  brisk  fire  until  done.  Remove  the  skin,  pour  the  whole  into 
a  sieve  laid  over  a  large  dish,  so  as  to  be  able  to  collect  all  the  liquid  and  butter,  and  let  this  as 
well  as  the  fish  get  cold  on  ice.  Take  all  the  bones  out  of  the  fish  and  pound  the  meat,  adding 
gradually  the  well-strained  butter  and  liquid,  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  bechamel  sauce  (No. 
409)  reduced  with  the  fish  stock.  Press  this  forcemeat  through  a  sieve  and  smooth  it  in  a 
vessel,  mixing  in  with  it  slowly  a  few  spoonfuls  of  very  thick  jelly  (No.  103);  try  a 
small  part  of  this  preparation  in  a  small  mold  on  ice,  and  if  not  quite  firm  add  more 
dissolved  jelly  until  perfectly  thick.  When  cold  on  the  ice  incorporate  into  it  slowly  about 
one  pint  of  very  firmly  whipped  cream,  drained  and  sugarless.  Stir  the  preparation  again 
for  a  few  moments,  then  pour  it  into  a  high  mold  incrusted  on  ice,  coated  with  jelly,  and  bestrew 
with  chervil  leaves;  let  the  mousseline  harden  for  a  couple  of  hours  and  at  the  last  moment  dip 
the  mold  into  hot  water  so  as  to  easily  unmold  it  on  a  rice  foundation  two  inches  high;  fill  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  with  half-set  jelly,  surround  the  foundation  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs 
standing  erect,  and  these  with  a  string  of  chopped  jelly  or  jelly  croutons.  Serve  at  the  same  time 
a  sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  finished  with  tarragon  and  chopped  chervil. 

(2537).  MOUSSELINE  OF  LOBSTER  (Mousseline  de  Eomard). 

Select  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  and  incrust  it  in  pounded  ice;  cut  some  crosswise  slices 
of  large  green  gherkins,  of  equal  size  and  thickness,  lift  them  up  with  the  pointed  end  of  a  larding 
needle,  dip  into  half-set  jelly,  and  then  arrange  them  symmetrically  against  the  sides  of  the  mold; 


FIG.  510. 

coat  this  decoration  lightly  with  jelly.  Cut  up  into  quarter-inch  dice  the  claw  meat  of  four  lobsters 
and  enclose  them  in  a  small  saucepan.  Pound  the  tail  meat  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  bechamel 
(No.  409),  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  mortar  to  pound  once  more,  adding  three  or 
four  gills  of  blond  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596),  a  few  spoonfuls  of  jelly  (No.  103)  and  a  few  drops  of 
tarragon  vinegar;  season  highly  and  set  the  preparation  in  a  saucepan  to  thicken  lightly  while 
stirring  on  ice;  incorporate  into  this  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  well-drained  whipped  cream.  After 


COLD    SERVICE. 


77J 


this  preparation  is  well  smoothed  add  to  it  the  dice  pieces  of  claw  meat  and  with  the  whole  fill  up 
the  coated  mold;  put  on  ice  for  one  hour.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  dip  the  mold  in  warm  water 
and  invert  the  contents  on  a  dish  having  a  small  support  fastened  to  the  center;  on  top  of  this 
place  a  hatelet  garnished  with  fine  shrimps  or  crawfish  of  graduated  sizes,  and  serve  at  the  same 
time  a  separate  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

(2538).  MOUSSELINE  OF  PHEASANTS,  PKINOESS  (Mousseline  de  Faisans,  Princesse). 
This  cold  entree  is  dressed  on  a  carved  rice  croustade  slightly  hollowed  out  on  top  to  form  an 
outspreading  ledge.  Incrust  in  chopped  ice  a  plain  pyramidical  flat-top  mold.  Take  the  meat  of 
two  breasts  of  cooked  pheasants  and  half  a  cooked  foies-gras;  with  these  make  a  preparation  th« 
same  as  for  a  chaudfroid  of  fillets  of  pheasants  (No.  2456);  before  thickening  it  on  ice  put  a  quarter 
of  this  into  a  saucepan  and  incorporate  in  it  two  spoonfuls  of  black  pounded  truffles;  thicken  the 
two  preparations  separately  on  ice.  Moisten  the  interior  of  the  mold  with  a  brush  dipped  in  jelly, 
fill  it  to  a  third  of  its  height  with  the  white  mixture,  and  when  this  is  cold  pour  in  a  layer  of  the 


FIG.  511. 

black  one  inch  deep,  and  on  this  another  of  the  white,  of  the  same  thickness  as  the  first,  then  an- 
other one  of  black,  the  same  as  before,  and  finish  filling  with  the  white;  cover  with  a  buttered  white 
paper  and  leave  to  cool  for  two  hours.  Lastly  dip  the  mold  in  hot  water  and  turn  it  over  to  un- 
mold  on  the  croustade;  surround  the  base  with  a  row  of  sticky  chopped  jelly  (No.  2526)  and  on  this 
lay  a  chain  of  small,  crimped  paper  cases,  each  one  filled  with  a  round  of  truffle.  On  top  of  the 
mousseline  fasten  a  hatelet  garnished  with  mushrooms  of  graduated  sizes,  and  surround  this  with 
chopped  jelly;  lay  around  some  cases  the  same  as  the  lower  ones,  only  somewhat  smaller,  also  filled 
with  truffles. 

(2539).  MOUSSELINE  OF  PULLET  (Mousseline  de  Poularde). 

Poach  in  butter  four  well-pared  pullet  fillets;  when  cold  pound  them  with  a  third  of  their 
quantity  of  the  very  best  butter;  season  and  rub  through  a  sieve.     Put  this  pulp  into  a  thin 
iron   vessel  and  beat  it  for   five  minutes   with  a  spoon   to   have    it 
smooth,  then  incorporate  slowly  three  gills  of  blond  chaudfroid  sauce 
(No.  596);  try  a  little  of  this  preparation  on  ice  to  rectify  if  necessary, 

and  when  perfect  thicken  it  on  ice,  stirring  in  a  quarter   as  many  .;\«^V«X :"~; :;;:^\ 

truffles,  red  beef  tongue  and  cooked   mushrooms,  the  whole  cut  in 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  dice,  also  the  volume  of  a  pint  of  well- 
drained  whipped  cream.      With  this  preparation  fill   an  oval  mold  FIG.  512. 
decorated  with  truffles  and  coated  with  a  light  coating  of  jelly,  or 

else  several  quenelle  molds,  covered  with  half-set  jelly,  having  used  a  brush  for  this  purpose;  then 
smooth  the  top  nicely  and  keep  the  mold  on  pounded  ice  for  one  hour.  At  the  last  moment  un- 
mold  the  mousseline  on  a  cold  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  pretty  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2540).  MOUSSELINE  OF  WOODCOCK  (Mousseline  de  Becaeses). 

Simply  dress  this  on  a  channeled  rice  croustade  foundation  fastened  on  a  dish.     Kemove  some 
rounds  of  cooked  truffles  with  a  cutter,  and  use  them  to  decorate  symmetrically  the  interior  sides 


772  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  bottom  of  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  imbedded  in  ice,  dipping  them  one  by  one  in  half- 
set  jelly  to  be  able  to  fasten  them  on,  then  coat  over  the  entire  inside  of  the  mold  lightly  with  half- 
set  jelly.  Pound  the  breast  meats  of  three  cooked  woodcock  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cooked  foies- 
gras,  half  as  much  cooked  and  chopped-up  truffles  and  a  very  little  of  the  cooked  intestines  from  the 
birds;  season  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  pulp  into  a  thin  metal  vessel  and  stir 


FIG.  513. 

into  it  gradually  three  gills  of  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594),  increased  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
warmed  jelly  (No.  103);  the  chaudfroid  sauce  should  be  reduced  with  a  game  fumet  (No.  397)  pre- 
pared with  the  woodcock  legs  and  bones;  thicken  the  preparation  properly  by  stirring  it  on  ice  and 
with  it  fill  up  the  mold;  then  harden  it  on  ice  for  one  hour.  When  needed  dip  the  mold  in  hot 
water,  wipe  dry  and  invert  the  mousseline  on  the  rice  foundation,  surrounding  it  with  a  bed  of 
chopped  jelly. 

(2541).  TENDERLOIN  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  HENRY  OLAT  (Pilets  de  Mouton  a  la  Henry 

Olay). 

Raise  the  tenderloins  from  two  saddles  of  mutton,  and  the  sirloins  or  meats  from  four  racks; 
remove  the  skin,  pare  and  lard  with  medium  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52);  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  fine  herbs  and  shallots.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  braziere  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  carrots, 
onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  a  clove;  lay  the  fillets  on  top, 
moisten  with  stock  (No.  194a)  and  Madeira  wine,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  then  bring  to  a  boil  and 
set  in  the  oven  for  one  hour;  when  done  lay  them  on  a  deep  dish  and  strain  the  stock  over;  glaze 
and  dress  on  a  rice  croustade,  and  garnish  around  with  breasts  of  mutton  in  chaudfroid,  prepared 
as  follows:  Braise  the  breasts,  set  them  under  a  weight  to  cool,  pare  by  removing  the  skin  and  fat, 
and  then  cut  the  meat  into  small  half-hearts;  cover  their  surfaces  with  foies-gras  taken  from  a 
terrine,  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  when  cold  mask  them  with  chaudfroid  made  with 
the  fillet  and  breast  stock,  and  some  poivrade  (No.  523)  added,  and  when  cold  pare  and  trim  with 
fancy  favors  (No.  10).  Dress  them  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other,  around  the  rice  socle, 
and  outside  of  the  breasts  place  chopped  jelly  surrounded  by  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442)  cut  very 
regular  and  dressed  symmetrically.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce-boat  of  printaniere  mayon< 
naise  (No.  612). 

(2542).  SMALL  "PAINS"  OF  OAFON  WITH  TARRAGON  (Petits  Fains  de  Ohapon  a  1'Estragon). 
Select  some  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  imbed  them  in  chopped  ice,  and  decorate  the  bottoms 
and  sides  with  cut-up  gherkins  and  blanched  tarragon  leaves,  beinsr  careful  to  dip  these  decorations 
in  half-set  jelly  when  using.  Take  the  value  of  two  or  three  gills  of  capon  puree,  and  mix  with  it 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  put  this  into  a  small  saucepan  and  dissolve  gradually 
with  a  gill  of  good  aspic  jelly  (No.  103)  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Stir  this  prepa- 
ration on  ice  to  thicken,  and  use  it  to  fill  the  empty  molds.  One  hour  later  dip  these  timbales  in 
warm  water;  unmold  the  timbales  and  dress  them  at  once  in  a  circle  on  a  cold  dish.  Garnish  the 
center  with  chopped  jelly  and  around  with  jelly  croutons. 

(2543).  SMALL  "FAINS"  OF  CHICKEN  A  L'EOARLATE  (Petits  Pains  de  Volaille  a  1'Ecarlate). 
This  entree  requires  to  be  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  fastened  on  a  dish;  cover  it  with 
white  paper,  and  decorate  its  thickness  with  a  border  in  relief;  in  the  center  of  this  foundation 
place  a  woodet:  support  also  covered,  it  being  as  high  as  a  six-sided  timbale  mold  about  the  same 
size  as  timbale  No.  1,  Fig.  137.  Pound  the  white  meats  of  a  large  chicken  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  foies-gras,  both  to  be  cooked;  add  two  spoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  season  and 


COLD    SERVICE.  773 

strain  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  pulp  into  a  thin  metal  vessel,  and  mix  in  an  equal  quantity  of 
liquid  blond  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  and  four  spoonfuls  of  cooked  truffles  cut  in  small  dice.  Incrust 
the  molds  on  ice;  coat  with  half-set  jelly,  and  line  the  sides  only  with  narrow  strips  of  red  beef 
tongue,  cut  the  same  height  as  the  molds.  Thicken  the  preparation  on  ice  and  with  it  fill  the  lined 


FIG.  514. 

molds;  leave  to  harden  for  one  hour.  When  required  for  serving,  dip  the  molds  in  hot  water  in  order 
to  unmold  the  "pains,"  and  dress  them  on  the  foundation  around  the  support,  placing  one  on  its 
summit;  decorate  all  the  tops  with  a  large  mushroom  head  channeled  through  the  thickness  and 
hollowed  in  the  center  so  that  it  is  capable  of  holding  a  small  truffle  ball.  On  the  central  "  pain  " 
fasten  a  small  hatelet  garnished  with  a  truffle  and  cocks'-comb  slightly  larger  than  the  rest. 

(2544).  SMALL  "PAINS"  OF  CHICKEN  A  LA  FKEYCINET  (Petits  Pains  de  Poulet  k  la 

Freycinet). 

Have  a  baking  tin  with  a  raised  border  an  inch  and  a  half  high;  range  on  it  some  timbale 
molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  and  surround  them  with  finely  chopped  ice:  pour  into  the  bottom  of  each 
mold  some  jelly  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  on  top  set  a  round  slice  of  truffle  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  narrower  than  the  diameter  of  the  bottom  mold;  decorate  the  sides  with  fanciful  cuts  of 
truffles  or  egg-white  dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  coat  over  the  interior  of  the  mold  or  else  brush  it 
with  a  layer  of  the  jelly  and  fill  it  up  with  the  following  preparation:  Pound  half  a  pound  of  the 
white  meat  of  a  braised  and  cold  chicken  to  a  pulp,  after  removing  the  skin,  fat  and  bones;  add  to 
it  half  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  well  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  and  a  pint 
of  jelly  (No.  103);  pass  the  whole  through  a  tammy  into  a  thin  metal  bowl  and  lay  it  on  ice;  incor- 
porate and  mix  well  with  it  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream,  drained  for  two  hours  on  a  sieve. 
Fill  the  molds  half  full  and  place  in  the  center  a  ball  of  foies-gras  taken  from  a  terrine  with  a 
round  five-eighths  of  an  inch  vegetable  spoon  dipped  in  hot  water;  finish  filling  up  with  the  prep- 
aration, smooth  the  tops  and  let  get  thoroughly  cold.  Unmold  the  timbales  and  dress  them  in  a 
circle  on  a  cut-out  rice  socle  two  inches  high  by  eight  inches  in  diameter;  place  in  the  center  of  the 
socle  a  sloping  support,  having  it  three  inches  high  and  five  inches  in  circumference  at  the  base 
and  two  inches  in  circumference  on  the  top;  on  this  top  fasten  a  stearine  cup,  filling  it  with  very 
small  black  and  glazed  truffles. 

(2545).  "PAIN"  OF  GAME  A  LA  BAETHOLDI  (Pain  de  Gibier  k  la  Bartholdi). 
Have  made  beforehand  a  round  wooden  socle  nine  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter  by  two  and  a 
half  inches  in  height.  At  half  an  inch  from  its  top  have  a  curve  two  inches  high  in  the  shape  of 
an  ogive,  reducing  the  part  that  rests  on  the  dish  to  the  diameter  of  eight  and  a  half  inches:  also 
hollow  it  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  on  top,  leaving  a  three-quarter-inch  border  all  around; 
exactly  in  the  center  bore  a  half-inch  hole  through  the  entire  depth.  Moisten  the  socle  lightly,  and 
cover  it  over  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  or  English  paste  (No.  134),  rolled  out  very  thin,  and  let 
dry  in  the  air;  then  glaze  it  over  with  very  light  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  decorate  by  applying  to 
the  glaze  fancifully  cut  pieces  of  either  of  the  pastes  used  or  a  wreath  of  flowers.  Make  one  or  two 
preparations  (the  cut  represents  only  one),  one  white  with  partridge  meat,  and  the  other  brown  with 
grouse  meat. 

For  the  White  Preparation. — Pound  one  pound  of  the  white  meat  of  some  braised  cold  par- 
tridges, boned  and  free  of  fat;  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  foies-gras,  and  continue  to  mash  the  two 


774 


THE: 


together,  adding  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  the  braised  stock,  strained  and 
skimmed,  having  added  to  it  an  ounce  of  well-dissolved  gelatine;  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  set  it  away  to  get  cold  in  a  metal  vessel.  Instead  of  gelatine  half  a  pound  of  very  clear 
jelly  (No.  103)  may  be  substituted. 

For  the  Brown  Preparation. — Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  white,  but  instead  of  the 
white  partridge  meat  and  veloute  sauce  use  grouse  or  prairie  chicken  meat  and  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414),  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392);  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  lay  it 
aside  in  a  metal  vessel.  Fry  two  young  and  tender  prairie  hens  in  butter  with  chopped- 
up  fresh  mushrooms;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley,  and  let  them  get  cold. 
Bone  and  suppress  the  skin,  pound  the  meat  to  a  pulp  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  mix  in  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  game  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  91),  and  add  and  mingle  to  the  whole  the  same  quantity 
of  truffles,  tongue,  liver  and  pistachios,  all  cut  up  in  small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares. 
Line  some  small  mousseline  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  138),  with  very  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  fill  them 


FIG.  515. 

up  with  the  above  preparation;  arrange  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  one  beside  the  other,  without 
allowing  them  to  touch,  and  bake  them  in  a  slack  oven;  leave  them  to  cool  off  under  a  weight; 
decorate  No.  2  mousseline  molds,  either  with  truffles,  egg-white,  or  pistachios;  coat  with  a  thin 
layer  of  jelly;  pour  a  quarter-inch  thick  layer  of  jelly  in  the  bottom  of  the  mold;  when  cold  place 
the  contents  of  the  No.  3  mousselin  molds  on  it,  and  finish  filling  with  jelly;  keep  in  a  cool  place. 
Incrust  in  chopped  ice  a  mold  made  in  graduated  tiers.  The  design  as  represented  is  plain,  with- 
out any  decoration;  if  decorated,  then  decorate  the  upper  edge  of  the  sides  of  each  tier  with  fanci- 
ful cuts  of  truffle  and  egg-white  dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  coat  over  evenly  the  inside  of  the  mold 
with  jelly.  Place  the  two  preparations  on  ice,  beat  them  up  well  and  fill  the  bottom  tier  with  the 
brown  preparation;  lay  in  the  center  some  slices  of  truffle  and  let  it  get  cold;  then  fill  another  tier 
with  white  preparation,  usingslices  of  foies-gras  instead  of  truffles,  and  continue  the  same  operation 
until  the  mold  is  all  filled;  then  let  it  get  quite  cold,  leaving  it  on  the  ice  for  several  hours  so  as  to 
harden  the  contents.  Unmold  the  "  pain  "  on  to  the  socle,  ran  through  the  center  a  wooden  sup- 
port which  must  be  made  to  hold  up  the  subject  on  its  summit,  and  decorate  each  tier  with  jelly 
croutons  cut  into  long  triangles,  having  the  pointed  end  cut  off  and  dressed  upright;  the  height  of 
these  croutons  for  the  lower  tier  dressed  on  the  socle  must  be  an  inch  and  a  half,  then  diminish 


COLI3    SERVICE. 


the  height  one-eighth  of  an  inch  for  each  tier,  so  that  those  on  the  fifth  tier  are  only  one  inch  high; 
decrease  their  thickness  and  width  also.  Stick  on  top  of  the  support  a  stearine  figure  in  imitation 
of  the  statue  of  Liberty.  Push  through  a  cornet  between  all  the  croutons  some  finely  chopped 
jelly,  and  decorate  the  bottom  of  the  socle  as  high  as  the  basin  with  more  chopped  jelly;  or  sur- 
round the  base  with  the  same  mousseline-shaped  timbales. 

(2546).  "PAIN"  OP  GAME,  DIANA  (Pain  de  Gibier  a  la  Diane). 

This  "  pain  "  is  dressed  on  a  socle,  the  frieze  being  upheld  by  the  trunk  of  a  tree  having  many 
branches,  these  to  form  a  support;  the  branches  are  modeled  over  wire,  the  surface  of  the  base  is 
covered  with  foliage  and  the  frieze  decorated  with  leaves  and  flowers.  On  top  of  the  socle  place  a 
surtout  of  carved  rice  of  similar  shape,  to  be  ten  inches  long  by  seven  inches  wide,  or  one  of  tin 
covered  with  noodle  paste  (No.  142).  Have  three  oval  molds,  the  largest  ten  inches  long,  by  seven 
inches  wide  and  two  inches  high,  the  medium-sized  one  eight  and  five-eighths  inches  long,  and 


FIG.  516. 

three  and  a  half  inches  high  and  five  and  a  quarter  inches  wide;  the  smallest  to  be  seven  and  one- 
eighths  inches  long,  four  and  five-eighths  inches  wide  and  three  inches  high.  Line  the  inside  of 
these  molds  with  slices  of  fat  pork  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Make  three  different  preparations, 
one  for  each  mold;  for  the  largest  have  a  young  hare  "pain"  preparation,  made  as  follows:  Cut 
two  pounds  of  young  hare  meat  into  large  squares;  fry  in  melted  chopped  fat  pork  with  mush- 
rooms, truffles  and  fine  herbs,  salt,  aromatics  and  spices;  when  the  hare  is  cooked  take  from 
the  fire  and  set  away  to  cool,  then  pound  it  well,  adding  four  egg-yolks,  half  a  pound  of  foios-gras 


776  THE    EPICUREAN. 

from  a  terrine  and  one  pound  of  cream  panada  (No.  120).  After  all  has  been  well  pounded  and 
passed  through  a  sieve,  add  six  ounces  of  unsmoked  cooked  beef  tongue,  half  a  pound  of  truffles 
and  one  pound  of  calves'  udder,  all  cut  in  three-eighths  inch  squares;  mix  thoroughly  and  fill  the 
largest  mold;  stand  it  in  a  sautoir  with  boiling  water  and  let  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for  three  hours; 
cool  under  a  weight,  unmold  and  remove  the  fat  part  from  the  bottom  and  sides,  pare  the  "  pain  '' 
neatly,  smooth  and  set  it  in  the  ice-box.  For  the  medium-sized  mold  prepare  the  following:  Cut  two 
pounds  of  prairie-hen  meat  in  squares,  fry  on  a  brisk  fire  in  grated  fat  pork  and  as  soon  as  cooked 
remove,  cool  and  pound  well,  adding  the  same  quantity  of  grated  fresh  fat  pork;  pound  all  thor- 
oughly together,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Pound  eight  ounces  of  panada  and  mix  it 
slowly  into  the  preparation,  press  it  through  a  sieve  and  mingle  into  this  forcemeat  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  truffles  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares  and  as  much  fat  pork  cut  exactly  the  same.  With  this 
preparation  fill  the  medium-sized  mold,  having  lined  it  with  slices  of  fat  pork  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick;  stand  it  in  a  sautoir  with  boiling  water  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  two  hours  and  a  half, 
then  cool  under  a  weight.  Unmold  the  "pain,"  pare  and  smooth  it  and  leave  it  in  the  ice-box. 
For  the  smallest  mold  pound  thoroughly  one  pound  of  roasted  pheasant,  partridge  or  quail  meat 
from  which  all  bones,  fat,  skin  and  sinews  have  been  removed,  with  half  a  pound  of  foies-gras 
from  a  terrine;  season,  strain,  return  to  a  vessel  and  add  a  pint  of  cold  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413) 
well  reduced  with  essence  of  mushrooms  (No.  392)  and  twelve  egg-yolks.  Fill  the  mold  with  this 
preparation,  stand  it  in  a  flat  .saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  place  it  in  the  oven,  and  when 
poached,  cool,  unmold  and  set  it  in  the  ice-box.  After  cleaning  the  molds  well  apply  the  lozenges 
correctly,  dipping  each  one  in  half-set  cold  jelly.  Begin  at  the  bottom  of  the  mold  with  a  lozenge 
of  egg-white  cut  in  half  across  its  length,  keeping  the  lozenges  of  truffles  on  the  right  and  the 
lozenges  of  tongue  on  the  left.  The  beauty  of  this  decoration  consists  in  applying  and  joining 
them  nicely,  putting  them  rather  close  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold  and  a  little  further  away  toward 
the  top  to  allow  for  the  spread  of  the  mold.  Coat  each  mold  with  jelly  (No.  103),  having  it  an  eighth 
of  an  inch  thick  at  the  bottom,  and  leave  it  to  cool.  The  lozenges  for  the  large  mold  are  one  and 
three-eighths  inches  long  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide;  for  the  medium  size,  one  and  a  quarter 
inches  long  by  one  and  one-sixteenth  inches  wide;  and  for  the  smallest,  one  and  one-eighth  inches  long 
by  five-eighths  of  an  inch  wide.  Put  the  "  pains  "  into  these  decorated  molds  and  finish  filling  with 
cold  jelly  that  is  not  set;  stand  them  in  the  ice-box  for  six  hours,  then  unmold  the  largest  carefully 
on  the  rice  surtout.  On  the  largest  place  the  next  size  and  the  smallest  on  top;  in  the  center  of 
this  one  place  a  pretty  subject,  and  at  each  end  of  it  fasten  a  garnished  hatelet  and  two  larger 
ones  below  on  the  lower  "  pain."  Surround  the  base  of  the  surtout  with  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2547),  "PAIN"  OP  LIVER  WITH  SALPIOON  (Pain  de  Foie  au  Salpicon). 
Mince  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  raw  calf's  liver;  fry  it  quickly  in  melted  fat  pork  with  aromatic 
herbs,  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  truffle  and  mushroom  peelings  and  chopped  blanched  shallot; 
remove  as  soon  as  done  and  leave  to  cool,  then  mix  in  four  ounces  of  foies-gras  parings  from  a 
terrine.  Pound  and  return  it  to  the  mortar  and  add  slowly  one  pound  and  a  half  of  chopped  raw 
veal  and  fat  pork,  the  same  as  a  galantine;  pound  the  whole  well  together,  press  once  more  through 
a  sieve  and  season  properly.  Put  this  preparation  into  a  vessel  and  stir  in  a  third  as  much  truffles, 
cooked  veal  udder  and  cooked  red  beef  tongue,  all  cut  into  small  squares.  Cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  a  large  charlotte  mold  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  put  the  preparation  in  the  center  and 
cover  over  with  more  pork;  place  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  containing  hot  water  to  reach  a  third  of 
its  height;  let  this  come  to  a  boil,  then  remove  to  a  slower  fire  or  a  slack  oven.  Cook  the  "  pain  '' 
for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  and  leave  to  cool  for  four  hours;  unmold,  take  off  the  pork  to  smooth  the 
surfaces  neatly,  then  glaze  and  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  gherkin,  red  beef  tongue  and  truffles 
dipped  in  half-set  jelly.  Dress  on  a  bread  crouton  covered  with  ravigote  butter  (No.  583)  and  dec- 
orate around  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2548).  "PAIN"  OF  PARTRIDGES  A  LA  MONTGOMERY  (Pain  de  Perdreaux  a  la  Montgomery). 
Cut  three  raw  partridges  in  pieces  as  for  a  sauted  chicken,  fry  with  chopped  fat  pork,  truffles, 
mushrooms,  fine  herbs,  salt,  aromatics  and  spices;  when  well  done,  put  aside  to  cool,  remove  the 
meat  and  divide  in  half-inch  squares,  then  pouad  and  add  nine  egg-yolks,  half  a  pound  of  foies- 
gras,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  milk  panada  (No.  121);  when  a  smooth  pulp  is  ob- 
tained press  it  through  a  sieve  and  mingle  in  six  ounces  of  salted,  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue,  nine 
ounces  of  truffles,  and  fifteen  ounces  of  udder,  all  to  be  cut  into  three-sixteenths  inch  dice.  Fill 
a  plain  oval  dome-shaped  mold  six  inches  long  by  four  inches  wide  with  the  preparation;  cover  with 


COLD    SERVICE.  777 

fat  pork,  and  then  set  it  in  a  sautoir  with  a  little  water  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  three  hours; 

turn  it  out  after  it  is  thoroughly  cold,  remove  the  fat  pork,  smooth  the  surfaces  and  set  it  in  a  larger 

mold  decorated  with  truffles,  coated  with  a  light  coat  of  white  jelly  (No.  103),  and  another  one  of 

white  chaudfroid  (No.  596);  finish  filling  the  mold  with  jelly, and  when 

exceedingly  cold  invert  it  on  a  bread  support  two  inches  high  covered 

with  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  surround  with  chopped  jelly,    and  garnish 

around  the  support  with  jelly  croutons  and  cases  of  thrushes  prepared 

as  follows:   Bone  some  thrushes,  keeping  one  leg  on  each  that  must  not 

be  boned;  stuff  the  birds  with  game  forcemeat  (No.    91),  season  with 

salt,  pepper,  mushrooms,  parsley  and  truffles,  all  to  be  finely  chopped. 

Then  also  cook  some  whole  truffles,  rounded  to  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  when  both  of  these  are  cold 

glaze  the  birds  over  with  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  and  decorate  the  leg  with  a  favor  frill  (No. 

10);  lay  the  thrushes  in  oval  cases,  and  the  truffles  in  small  round  ones;   arrange  all  of  them 

around  the  support  intercalating  the  birds  and  truffles. 

(2549).  "PAIN"  OP  YOUNG  BABBIT  (Pain  de  Levraut). 

Suppress  all  the  meats  from  a  young  rabbit,  also  the  skin  and  sinews,  and  use  the  bones  to 
make  a  game  fumet  (No.  397).  Fry  in  butter  the  large  fillets,  the  minion  fillets  and  the  leg  meats; 
as  soon  as  they  are  cooked  take  them  out  of  the  sautoir.  When  cold  pound  the  leg  meats  finely, 
adding  the  fillets,  and  minion  fillets  then  pound  again  with  half  as  much  cooked  foies-gras,  season 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  this  pulp  into  a  thin  metal  basin,  and  beat  it  for  a  few  moments 
with  a  spoon  in  order  to  have  it  smooth,  and  incorporate  into  it  slowly  three  gills  of  brown 
chaudfroid  (No.  594),  some  game  glaze  (No.  398),  and  melted  gelatine.  Try  a  little  of  this 
preparation  on  ice  to  judge  its  consistency,  and  if  not  correct  thicken  it  at  once  by  beating 
it  for  a  few  moments  longer  on  the  ice,  while  mixing  in  more  melted  gelatine  add  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter  broken  into  small  bits,  and  when  of  a  proper  consistency  stir  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked 
truffles  cut  in  dice  pieces,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  red  beef  tongue  cut  the  same.  Pour  the  whole 
into  a  plain  cylinder  mold  coated  over  with  a  little  half-set  jelly  applied  with  a  brush,  and  imbed 
the  mold  on  chopped  ice;  harden  the  contents  for  a  couple  of  hours,  then  unmold  it  on  a  cold 
dish;  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2550).  KOAST  LARDED  PARTRIDGES  (Perdreaux  Piques  etRotis). 

Truss  two  partridges  after  singeing,  drawing  and  cleaning  them  well;  lard  them  and  roast 
either  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven.  Let  get  cold,  and  when  ready  to  use  glaze  them  over  with  a 
brush  dipped  in  game  glaze  (No.  398),  and  dress,  either  whole  or  cut  up,  on  a  dish  and  surround 
with  jelly. 

(2551),  POKE  LIVER  PIE  OR  TERRINE  (Pat6  ou  Terrine  de  Poles  de  Pore). 

Terrine. — Take  three  pounds  of  the  breast  of  fresh  pork,  chop  it  finely  into  a  forcemeat;  chop 
separately  two  pounds  of  pig's  liver  after  soaking  it  in  cold  water  and  straining  through  a  sieve. 
Put  the  whole  into  a  vessel  large  enough  to  have  all  thoroughly  mixed,  add  one-third  of  an  ounce 
of  salt  for  each  pound  and  one  coffeespoonful  of  pepper  for  the  same  quantity,  prepared  red  pepper 
(No.  168),  nutmeg  to  taste,  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  a  pinch  of  thyme,  six  eggs  and 
three  and  a  half  ounces  of  flour;  stir  the  whole  thoroughly  until  a  very  smooth  paste  is  obtained. 
Line  the  bottom  of  one  or  several  earthen  jars,  fit  to  be  put  in  the  oven,  with  slices  of  fat  pork,  then 
fill  them  with  the  paste;  cover  with  another  slice,  having  notched  the  fibrous  parts;  place  it  in  the 
oven  and  let  bake  slowly.  A  terrine  weighing  four  to  five  pounds  requires  three  to  four  hours  to 
bake.  When  done  drain  off  the  fat  and  replace  it  with  good  melted  leaf  lard,  cover  with  a  board 
and  place  a  two-pound  weight  on  top.  After  it  is  cold  cover  with  a  light  layer  of  lard,  and  serve 
either  in  the  same  jar,  or  else  cut  it  with  a  spoon. 

Pie.— The  above  preparation  can  also  be  made  into  a  pie  by  baking  it  in  a  mold,  proceeding  as 
directed  in  No.  2557. 

(2552).  ROAST  PEACOCK  ADORNED  WITH  ITS  PLUMAGE  (Paon  Roti  et  Par6  de  son  Plumage) 

Procure  a  young  peacock  with  very  brilliant  plumage;  cut  off  half  of  the  rump  with  the  tail 

feathers  attached  to  it  and  spread  them  into  a  fan,  then  dry;  also  remove  the  wings  with  their 

plumage  and  the  head  with  all  the  beautiful  neck  feathers  as  far  down  as  the  breast,  including  the 


?78  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

skin;  stuff  the  neck  with  wadding  and  insert  a  stiff  wire  in  the  middle  to  hold  it  in  its  natural 
position.  Pick  the  peacock,  draw,  singe  and  free  it  of  feathers;  truss  for  roasting  (No.  179)  and 
stuff  with  a  dressing  made  with  a  pound  of  soaked  and  well-pressed  bread-crumbs,  the  same 
quantity  of  chopped  beef  marrow,  and  season  with  spices  (No.  168),  chopped  shallot  fried  colorless 
in  butter  and  raw  liver  chopped  up  finely.  Cook  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  over  frequently 
with  butter,  and  when  cold  dish  it  up  on  a  carved  rice  socle;  adorn  it  with  its  plumage;  surround 
•with  chopped  jelly  and  a  border  of  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442)  and  serve  separately  a  cold  poivrade 
sauce  (No.  620). 

(2553;.  PHEASANT  STUFFED  A  LA  PRINCE  OELOFF  (Faisan  Farci  a  la  Prince  Orloff). 

Open  a  fresh  pheasant  through  the  back;  bone  it,  leaving  on  the  pinions  and  drumsticks,  then 
season  the  meats.  Take  all  the  meat  from  another  fresh  pheasant  and  chop  it  up  finely,  mixing  in 
an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  fresh  fat  pork;  season  this  forcemeat  and  add  to  it  a  quarter 
of  its  quantity  of  cooked  foies-gras  cut  in  large  dice  and  as  much  truffles.  Use  this  preparation  to 
fill  the  boned  pheasant,  bring  the  meats  together  and  sew  it  up,  giving  it  its  original  form;  truss 
and  brush  over  with  butter,  then  wrap  it  in  a  fine  cloth,  tying  it  well,  and  cook  it  very  slowly  for 
an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  good  stock  (No.  194a).  Drain  off  the  pheasant,  untie  and  wrap  it 
again  in  the  same  cloth  after  washing  it,  then  let  get  cold.  One  hour  before  serving  unwrap  the 
pheasant,  separate  the  back  from  the  breast,  cutting  it  off,  then  divide  this  in  two  lengthwise 
pieces;  cut  the  two  halves  in  transversal  slices,  reshape  and  put  the  breast  back  into  its  former 
place  from  whence  it  was  taken.  Cover  the  whole  pheasant  with  a  white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No. 
596)  reduced  with  pheasant  fumet  (No.  397)  and  afterward  thickened  on  ice.  Place  the  pheasant 
on  ice  till  needed  and  then  decorate  the  pinions  with  paper  frills  (No.  10);  now  dress  it  on  a 
small  oval  foundation  covered  over  with  white  paper  and  fastened  on  a  long  dish;  surround  it  with 
a  thick  cord  of  chopped  jelly  pushed  through  a  pocket,  and  decorate  the  edges  of  the  dish  with 
jelly  croutons  (No.  2442)  and  two  clusters  of  medium-sized  stuffed  truffles. 

(2554).  CHICKEN  PIE-TO  BE  OUT  UP  (Pat<§  de  Poulet  pour  DScouper). 
Procure  two  oblong  corrugated  pie  molds  ten  inches  long,  four  inches  high  and  four  inches  wide, 
buttered  with  cold  butter;  stand  them  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  line  with  pie  paste  (No. 
144).  Bone  thoroughly  four  tender  chickens  of  about  two  and  a  half  pounds  each;  suppress  the  fat 
and  thigh  sinews,  also  the  minion  fillets;  season  with  No.  2  pie  spices  (No.  168).  Put  into  a  vessel 
some  ham,  tongue,  truffles  and  fat  pork,  all  cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares;  season  and 
baste  with  Madeira  wine.  Prepare  a  forcemeat  with  one  pound  of  finely  chopped  pork  free  from 
sinews,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork;  mix  together  and  chop  once  more;  season.  Cover  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  the  paste  with  this  forcemeat,  and  fill  the  pie  in  alternate  layers  with  chicken 
forcemeat  and  the  salpicon,  finishing  the  whole  with  forcemeat;  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  on 
top  place  a  bay  leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme.  Cover  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  fasten  both 
together,  clip  off  the  surplus  paste  around  the  edge,  form  and  pinch  a  crest,  and  cover  the  whole 
with  another  flat  made  of  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  egg  over  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  two 
hours.  Should  the  crust  brown  too  quickly,  lay  over  a  double  sheet  of  wetted  paper,  and  when 
the  pie  is  done  remove  and  let  cool  partly;  fill  it  up  with  consistent  jelly  made  from  the  fragments 
of  chicken,  and  after  the  pie  is  thoroughly  cold  cut  it  into  slices,  and  dress  in  a  straight  row  on  a 
cold  dish  surrounded  by  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2555).  DUCKLING  PIE  A  LA  EOUENNAISE  (Pate  de  Cannetoa  a  la  Eouennaise). 
Prepare  two  pounds  of  cold  pie  paste  (No.  144),  having  it  rather  firm;  let  it  rest  for  an  hour 
and  a  half  in  a  cool  place.  Cut  off  the  pinions,  legs  and  necks  from  two  clean  ducklings,  bone 
them  entirely,  leave  the  fillets  adhering  to  the  skin,  remove  half  the  fillet  through  its  thickness  and 
lay  on  the  skin  that  has  no  fillet,  and  detach  the  meat  from  the  legs  to  suppress  the  sinews,  then 
chop  up  finely;  in  with  this  mix  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  boned  turkey  forcemeat  (No.  65); 
pound  both  together  for  a  few  moments  with  four  ounces  of  chopped  truffles  and  four  ounces  of  raw 
chopped  ham,  seasoning  with  No.  2  pie  spices  (No.  168).  Place  this  forcemeat  in  a  bowl  and  add  to  it 
a  third  of  its  volume  of  baked  liver  forcemeat  (No.  64),  passed  through  a  sieve,  also  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  half  a  pound  of  blanched  fat  pork  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares.  Prick 
the  skin  of  the  boned  ducklings  with  a  larding  needle  and  fill  their  insideswith  a  part  of  the  force- 
meat, placing  the  liver  well  seasoned  in  the  center;  reshape  the  duck  to  its  original  appearance.  With 
the  bones  and  parings  prepare  a  succulent  stock.  Place  on  a  small  baking  sheet  covered  with  strong, 
well  buttered  paper  a  smooth  oval  hinged  mold;  line  this  mold  with  two-thirds  of  the  paste  and  cover 
the  bottom  and  sides  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  on  this  place  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  set 


COLD    SERVICE.  779 

one  of  the  stuffed  ducklings  on  the  bottom,  then  cover  over  with  more  forcemeat  and  another  duck- 
ling on  top,  finishing  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  having  it  dome-shaped  on  the  top, 
then  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and  over  this  place  a  flat  of  the  same  paste;  press  it 
down  on  the  base  of  the  dome  and  against  the  projecting  edges  of  paste  to  fasten  the  two  together; 
cut  away  any  surplus  paste  close  to  the  edges  and  pinch  it  with  a  pair  of  pincers,  or  else  decorate  the 
dome  with  fanciful  cuts  of  the  same  paste;  cut  a  small  hole  exactly  in  the  center,  which  is  intended 
to  act  as  a  chimney  for  the  steam  to  escape.  Egg  over  the  surface  and  set  the  pie  in  a  moderate 
oven;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  brown  cover  over  with  paper  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  An 
hour  after  the  pie  has  been  removed  from  the  oven  pour  in  through  the  opening  on  top  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  duck  fumet  (No.  397)  reduced  to  a  half-glaze  and  mixed  with  a  little  Madeira  wine 
and  jelly;  close  the  opening  with  a  pad  of  paste.  Half  an  hour  later  take  off  the  mold  and  let  the 
pie  cool  for  twelve  hours  before  serving. 

(2556).  GAME  PIE  DEESSED  A  LA  LESAGE  (Patfi  de  Gibier  DressS  a  la  Lesage). 

Prepare  six  pounds  of  cold  pie  paste,  the  same  being  described  in  No.  144;  after  it  has 
well  rested  roll  out  three-quartet's  of  it  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  raise  the 
paste  with  the  hands  several  times,  leaving  it  rest  between  each;  place  it  on  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  and  when  it  attains  the  height  of  about  six  inches,  is  rounded  and  properly  equalized, 
thicker  on,  the  bottom  than  on  the  top,  then  pinch  on  the  outside  a  row  toward  the  right,  another 
toward  the  left,  and  wrap  several  strong  sheets  of  buttered  paper  around  and  tie  vdth  several 
strings.  Fill  the  bottom  and  sides  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  on  the  bottom  spread  a  layer  of 
forcemeat  made  of  three  pounds  of  pork  meat,  one  pound  of  young  rabbit  meat,  four  pounds  of 
fat  pork,  six  ounces  of  prepared  No.  2  pie  spices  (No.  168),  and  ten  egg-yolks.  Having  finely  chopped 
and  pounded  all  these  ingredients  together,  spread  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  the  pie,  and  over  it 
place  a  boned  pheasant  with  the  inside  meats  larded  with  fat  pork  and  ham,  and  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  chives  and  chopped  bay  leaf,  and  filled  with  some  of  this 
same  forcemeat.  Bone  twelve  woodcock  and  prepare  them  the  same  as  the  pheasant.  Cut  into 
three-sixteenth  inch  squares  some  carrots  and  onions;  fry  the  onions  first  in  butter,  add  the  carrots 
and  the  woodcock  intestines;  moisten  with  a  little  broth  and  Madeira  wine,  and  as  soon  as  done 
(that  is,  when  the  moisture  is  thoroughly  reduced)  pound  all  finely  and  press  through  a  sieve;  let 
stand  till  cold,  then  mix  into  it  some  of  the  above  forcemeat,  adding  eight  ounces  of  cooked  lean 
ham  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares,  and  four  ounces  of  chopped  truffle  peelings.  Fill  the  boned 
woodcock,  and  in  the  center  of  each  lay  a  small  peeled  truffle.  Place  eight  of  these  birds  around 
the  pheasant,  cover  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  and  in  the  center  set  the  four  remaining  ones, 
with  whole  truffles  laid  around,  also  eight  partridge  fillets  larded  with  lardons  (No.  3,  Fig.  52),  and 
seasoned;  cover  with  more  of  the  forcemeat  to  form  a  dome,  and  on  this  lay  thin  slices  of  fat  pork 
and  a  little  thyme  and  bay  leaf  on  top.  Wet  the  edges  of  the  pie,  and  lay  over  a  cover  of  the 
rolled-out  paste;  fasten  both  together,  cut  the  crust  straight,  equalize  it  and  pinch  it  all  around; 
make  a  chimney  on  the  top,  place  several  rows  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142)  leaves  on,  and  in  the 
center  arrange  a  noodle  paste  artichoke  made  as  follows:  Take  a  flat  of  paste  about  one-sixteenth  of 
an  inch  thick,  fold  it  in  two  three  times,  then  roll  it  in  a  ball  an  inch  and  a  quarter  across,  make 
two  cross-shape  incisions  half  an  inch  deep  on  the  centre  of  the  ball  so  as  to  divide  it  in  eight  parts 
partly  open  to  represent  an  antichoke;  egg  over  several  times  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
three  or  four  hours;  leave  it  to  cool  partly,  then  fill  the  pie  either  with  game  fumet  (No.  397) 
mixed  with  jelly  or  with  chaudfroid  (No.  594)  made  with  essence  of  game  (No.  397)  or  else  with 
fresh  butter  and  lard  mixed,  half  and  half.  Filling  it  in  this  way  the  pie  will  keep  much  longer. 
It  will  take  nearly  twenty-four  hours  to  thoroughly  cool  off  a  pie  of  this  size. 

(2557).  GOOSE  PIE  A  LA  ADOLPHE  HAKDY-HLLETS  (Pate  de  Filets  d'Oie  k  la  Adolphe  Hardy). 

The  Crust  for  the  Pie. — Make  a  pie  paste  with  three  pounds  of  flour  and  one  pound  of  butter, 
as  described  In  pie  paste  No.  144;  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  to  rest  for  two  hours.  Have  a  round, 
plain,  bottomless  mold  six  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  by  six  inches  in  height;  line  it  with  some 
strong  buttered  paper.  Roll  out  three-quarters  of  the  paste  to  a  round,  eighteen  inches  in  diameter 
and  half  an  inch  in  thickness;  dredge  it  with  flour;  fold  it  in  two.  and  bring  the  two  ends  toward 
the  center  in  the  shape  of  a  pocket;  equalize  the  thickness  of  the  paste  by  using  the  rolling  pin. 
Line  the  unbuttered  mold  with  it,  pressing  it  against  the  sides,  and  having  it  a  little  thicker 
toward  the  bottom;  leave  for  two  hours  on  ice,  unmold  and  pinch  it  all  around,  beginning  at  the 
bottom  and  inclining  the  pinching  toward  the  left,  and  the  second  row  toward  the  right;  surround 
the  pie  by  another  mold,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wider  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  higher  than  the  last 


780  THE    EPICUREAN. 

one;  till  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pie  with  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and  fill  it  either  with  rice 
or  very  dry  flour;  cover  over  with  a  round  of  paper,  wet  the  upper  edges  and  over  the  top  lay  a  flat 
of  the  same  paste;  fasten  the  two  together  and  cut  away  the  paste  from  the  border,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  higher  than  the  mold;  pinch  it  all  around  and  on  top;  cut  a  hole  in  the  center,  and 
insert  therein  a  cardboard  tube,  called  a  chimney.  Decorate  the  cover  or  dome  with  leaves  or  flowers 
made  of  thin  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  brush  with  egg  twice,  and  leave  for  one  hour  in  the  ice- 
box; form  a  small  artichoke  (No.  2556)  of  exceedingly  thin  noodle  paste;  egg  it  over  twice  and  bake 
it  in  a  small  noodle-paste  ring.  Bake  the  pie  crust  or  timbale  in  a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour, 
having  it  assume  a  beautiful  color;  as  soon  as  done  cut  off  the  cover  at  the  base  of  the  dome  by 
slipping  a  small  thin  knife  between  the  two  pastes;  remove  the  cover,  empty  the  inside  rice  and 
paper,  and  glaze  the  interior  with  a  brush  dipped  in  melted  meat  glaze. 

Terrine  of  Goose  Fillets. — Have  half  a  pound  of  the  kernel  or  bottom  round  of  veal,  remove 
the  sinews,  chop  and  pound  it  up  finely.  Chop  separately  a  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork,  mix  the  two 
together,  season  with  pie  spices  (No.  168),  and  pound  the  whole,  incorporating  in  slowly  one  gill 
of  stock  (No.  194a).  Lard  some  goose  fillets  with  medium  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52);  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  No.  3  terrine  (about  two  quarts)  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  masking  over  with  a  layer  of  the  above  forcemeat;  lay  in  the  fillets  more 
forcemeat  and  some  small,  whole,  peeled  truffles,  having  alternate  layers,  and  finishing  with  force- 
meat well  rounded  on  top;  cover  with  a  bard  of  fat  pork,  then  the  lid,  and  cook  for  about  an  hour 
and  a  half  in  a  slack  oven;  let  get  cold  under  a  light  pressure,  leaving  it  on  for  twenty-four  hours; 
unmold  the  terrine.  suppress  all  the  fat,  and  lay  the  contents  inside  the  timbale  or  pie  crust. 
Cook  half  a  pound  of  leaf  lard,  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  the  fat  suppressed  from  the  terrine; 
when  clarified  pass  it  through  a  strainer,  leave  to  cool  without  having  it  set,  then  pour  it  into  the 
pie;  lay  on  the  cover  and  finish  filling  with  more  of  the  fat.  Pull  out  the  cardboard  chimney,  range 
the  paste  artichoke  on  top,  and  let  the  pie  get  thoroughly  cold  in  the  ice-box  for  twelve  hours. 

(2558).  HAM  PIE  (Pat6  de  Jambon), 

Select  a  fresh,  smoked  ham,  detach  the  kernel  and  under  kernel;  free  these  meats  from  their 
hard  parts  and  cut  them  into  inch  and  a  half  squares:  if  the  meat  be  very  salty  it  will  require  un- 
salting  either  in  water  or  milk  for  a  few  hours  before  cutting  up;  lard  each  piece  with  a  bit  of 
truffle,  passing  it  through  from  one  side  to  the  other.  Melt  half  a  pound  of  lard  and  when  hot  add 
to  it  the  squares  of  ham  and  fry  for  a  few  moments  only.  Prepare  a  chopped  forcemeat  (No.  65); 
mix  iu  four  ounces  of  chopped  truffle  parings,  pound  the  whole  and  add  half  a  pound  of  lean  and 
finely  chopped  cooked  ham,  and  half  a  pound  of  fat  pork  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  inch  squai'es; 
season  with  red  and  white  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  little  salt.  Line  a  cold  pie  mold  with  short  paste 
(No.  135),  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  this  with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  hash  and  fill  the  center, 
alternating  the  squares  of  ham  with  another  layer  of  the  hash;  finish  by  giving  it  a  dome  form 
on  top  and  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork;  moisten  the  inside  of  the  crest  with  a  brush,  then  add  a 
layer  of  paste;  form  this  into  a  pretty  crest,  pinch  the  top  and  sides,  egg  over  twice  and  range  a 
puff  paste  (No.  146)  cover  over  the  whole,  having  it  only  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  egg  this  twice 
also,  score  the  entire  surface  and  form  a  chimney  in  the  center  of  the  paste.  Bake  for  three  hours 
to  three  hours  and  a  half.  Should  the  pie  brown  too  quickly  cover  over  with  strong,  wetted 
paper.  Two  hours  after  removing  it  from  the  oven  pour  sufficient  good  jelly  (No.  103)  through 
the  chimney  to  fill  it  well. 

(2559).  HAEE  PIE  IN  A  DISH  (Pat6  de  Lievre  dans  nn  Plat). 

Remove  the  meats  from  two  young  hares,  keep  the  tenderloins  and  minion  fillets  apart  and 
pare  the  remainder,  suppressing  all  the  skin  and  sinews;  cut  the  meats  into  pieces  and  range  them 
in  a  sautoir  with  half  a  pound  of  grated  fat  pork,  the  liver,  the  lights,  and  a  tablespoonf ul  of  finely 
chopped  onions;  toss  the  whole  over  a  brisk  fire  without  letting  it  attain  color,  then  take  off  to  cool; 
chop  and  pound  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  grated  fresh  fat  pork  and  four  ounces  of  fresh  pork 
tenderloins.  Pare  the  reserved  tenderloins  and  minion  fillets,  cut  them  in  half-inch  squares  and 
add  to  them  half  a  pound  of  peeled  and  cut-up  truffles;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  throw  over 
a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  as  much  brandy.  Two  hours  later  put  in  the  cooked  meats.  Line  a 
deep  pie  dish,  fit  to  go  in  the  oven,  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  pour  in  the  preparation  and  cover 
with  a  slice  of  the  same  pork,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  then  lay  over  a  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  cover, 
egg  it  twice  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  allow  to  cool,  remove  both  cover  and  pork, 
clean  the  dish,  place  on  a  folded  napkin,  then  decorate  the  edges  of  the  pie  dish  with  a  border  of 
jelly  croutons  and  the  center  with  chopped  jelly. 


COLD    SERVICE.  78J 

(2560).  HAKE  PIE  WITHOUT  A  MOLD  (Pate  de  Lievre  Sans  Moule). 

Cut  some  large  fillets  from  the  back  of  a  hare,  divide  them  into  good-sized  square  lardons 
(No.  1,  Fig  52)  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel  with  as  much  fat  pork  cut  exactly  the  same  size  and 
shape  and  a  few  raw  truffles  cut  likewise;  season  highly  and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira 
wine  or  brandy.  Cut  off  the  meats  from  the  legs  and  shoulders,  lay  them  in  a  frying  pan  with 
melted  fat  pork  and  an  equal  quantity  of  cut-up  calf's  liver;  season  and  fry  over  a  brisk  fire;  as 
soon  as  the  meats  are  brown  remove  to  cool;  pound  and  rub  this  through  a  sieve,  then  add  this 
forcemeat  to  as  much  chopped  fresh  pork,  raw,  pounded  and  seasoned  highly  and  mixed  with 
cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  Roll  out  on  a  floured  table  a  flat  of  cold  pie  paste  (No.  144)  twenty 
inches  long  by  fifteen  wide;  spread  it  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cover  the  center  with  a  layer  of  the 
prepared  forcemeat,  giving  it  an  oblong  shape;  then  alternate  the  garnishing  and  the  forcemeat,  the 
last  layer  being  forcemeat,  and  cover  this  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the 
paste,  fold  over  the  flaps  on  the  sides  so  as  to  enclose  the  contents,  roll  out  the  ends,  moisten  the 
top  and  bring  these  ends  over  on  the  center,  wet  again  and  cover  with  a  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
oval  flat  of  puff  paste  (No.  146),  sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  pie;  on  this  flat  make  small  openings 
to  act  as  chimneys;  put  in  pasteboard  cylinders  to  uphold  the  paste.  Egg  over  the  paste  and  score 
it  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife.  Place  the  pie  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake,  covering  the  top  with 
sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and  let  cook  for  two  hours.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  after  taking  it  from 
the  oven  pour  into  the  holes  a  few  spoonfuls  of  game  furnet  (No.  397)  mixed  with  a  little  Madeira 
wine  and  melted  jelly  (No.  103),  then  set  it  aside  to  cool  for  twelve  hours  before  serving.  This 
same  method  may  be  employed  for  the  preparation  of  chicken,  game  or  fish  pies. 

(2561).  LAMB  PIE-LOIN  (Pate"  de  Longe  d'Agneau). 

Bone  two  loins  and  two  shoulders  of  spring  lamb;  cut  the  loin  meats  into  squares,  lard  them  with 
larding  pork  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  spices.  Chop  up  the  shoulder  meats  free 
of  all  sinews  and  fat  and  add  to  it  the  same  weight  of  fat  pork,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg 
and  spice,  then  pound  the  whole  in  a  mortar,  mixing  in  a  little  Madeira  wine.  Clean  well  and  but- 
ter a  pie  mold,  line  it  with  ordinary  pie  paste  (No.  144)  and  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  thin 
slices  of  fat  pork;  mask  these  with  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  place  some  slices  of  cooked  ham  on 
the  bottom,  then  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  the  larded  squares  over,  finishing  with  more  force- 
meat, having  the  mold  quite  full  and  rounded  on  the  top;  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork  and  in  the 
center  place  a  bay  leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme.  Cover  the  pie  with  a  flat  of  paste,  having  a  raised 
edge  on  the  border,  pinch  it  all  around  and  decorate  the  top  with  imitation  leaves  cut  from  puff 
or  noodle  paste  and  a  paste  artichoke  (No.  2556)  in  the  center.  Egg  the  surfaces  and  cook  in 
a  medium  oven,  then  fill  up  with  jelly  when  the  pie  is  thoroughly  cold. 

(2562).  GOOSE  LIVER  PIE  (Pate"  de  Foies-Gras). 

This  cold  pie,  as  shown  in  Fig.  518,  is  intended  for  very  large  suppers.  Make  a  preparation 
ehe  same  as  terrine  of  foies-gras,  cook  it  in  a  long  square-shaped  tin  mold  and  let  get  cold  under  a 
weight;  keep  it  for  five  or  six  hours  on  ice.  Butter  a  tastefully  decorated  cold  pie  mold,  lay  it  on  a 


FIG.  518. 


baking  sheet  covered  with  strong  buttered  paper,  and  line  it  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  made 
with  egg-yolks;  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  buttered  paper,  and  fill  it  up  with  common  flour, 
then  cover  with  another  buttered  paper,  and  close  the  opening  on  top  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste, 


782  THE    EPICUREAN. 

fastening  the  two  edges  together;  cut  the  top  straight  and  pinch  it  prettily,  then  egg  it  over. 
Cook  this  paste  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  slack  oven,  so  that  it  acquires  a  fine  color,  and  as 
soon  as  it  is  removed  open  it  by  cutting  the  cover  on  a  level  with  the  edges  and  lift  it  off  and  empty 
out  the  contents;  dry  the  inside  for  a  few  moments  at  a  warm  heater.  When  the  crust  is  thoroughly 
cold  unfasten  the  hinges  of  the  mold  so  as  to  remove  it,  then  glaze  over  the  inside  with  a  brush; 
cover  the  bottom  with  a  layer  of  chopped  jelly,  and  on  this  dress  the  terrine  preparation  cut  in 
slices,  having  them  in  long  squares  of  equal  size  and  thickness;  put  the  poorest  ones  at  the  bottom, 
and  when  this  garnishing  has  reached  nearly  to  the  top  finish  filling  with  the  prettiest  slices,  dress- 
ing them  in  a  compact  circle,  and  filling  the  inside  of  this  with  fine  chopped  jelly.  Fasten  the  pie 
on  a  cold  dish,  surround  the  base  with  croutons  of  jelly  (No.  2442),  and  on  top  of  the  chopped  jelly 
lay  a  fine  truffle,  peeled  and  cooked  in  wine. 

(2563),  GOOSE  LIVER  PIE,  OUT  UP  (Pate  de  Foies-Gras  Decoupa 

This  entree  is  dressed  on  a  crescent-shaped  support,  slightly  circular,  and  made  of  tin;  cover 
it  with  noodle  (No.  142)  or  cooked  paste  (No.  131);  this  support  should  not  be  fastened  on  the  center 
of  the  dish ;  being  of  a  half-circular  form  it  should  stand  at  one  side  on  the  edge  of  the  hollow  center 
so  that  the  garnishing  can  be  dressed  inside  the  crescent.  Prepare  a  chopped  forcemeat  for  game 
pie  (No.  67);  season  it  highly  and  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  baking  liver  forcemeat  (No.  86), 
pounded  and  passed  through  a  sieve.  Cut  into  large  fillets  one  good  raw  foies-gras,  set  them  in  a 
bowl  with  raw,  peeled  and  quartered  truffles;  season  and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine 
or  brandy.  Butter  a  large  cradle  mold,  line  it  with  thin  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  and  fill  the 
bottom  and  around  with  the  prepared  forcemeat;  on  top  of  this  range  the  foies-gras,  fillets  and 
truffles;  cover  over  with  more  of  the  forcemeat,  having  it  slightly  rounded  on  the  top,  and  set  over 
this  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  fastening  it  well  on  the  outer  edges.  Make  a  small  opening  in  the 
center  of  the  cover,  egg  it  over,  then  lay  this  pie  on  a  baking  sheet  and  push  it  into  a  moderate 
oven  to  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter,  being  careful  to  cover  the  paste  with  a  buttered  paper  as 
fast  as  it  browns.  After  removing  it  from  the  fire,  pour  into  the  opening  a  few  spoonfuls  of  jelly 
(No.  103),  mixed  with  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402)  and  Madeira  wine.  Before  cutting  the  pie 
into  slices  it  must  be  urimolded  and  kept  for  twenty-four  hours  in  a  cool  place,  so  that  the  paste  is 
slightly  softened,  otherwise  it  will  be  likely  to  crumble  when  cutting.  Have  the  slices  all  of  equal 
thickness,  and  dress  them  neatly  in  a  half  circle  on  the  support.  In  the  empty  space  it  has 
formed  range  a  tasteful  cluster  of  round  and  peeled  truffles  cooked  in  wine  and  glazed  over;  sur- 
round these  truffles  and  the  pie  with  a  thick  piping  of  chopped  jelly  forced  through  a  cornet. 

(2564).  COLD  STEASBUEG  LIVER  PIE  (Pat6  de  Foies-Gras  de  Strasbourg). 
Line  a  pie  mold  the  same  as  No.  2557.     Prepare  a  forcemeat  with  half  a  pound  of  very  fresh 
lean  pork,  and  half  a  pound  of  exceedingly  white  and  fresh  lean  veal,  free  of  all  sinews  and  fat, 


FIG.  519. 

and  both  chopped  finely  and  separately;  chop  up  the  same  weight  of  fat  pork,  and  a  half  pound  of 
liver;  pound  and  pass  through  a  sieve;  pound  also  half  a  pound  of  cooked  lean  ham  with  some 


COLD    SERVICE.  783 

truffle  peelings;  rub  this  also  through  a  sieve,  and  mix  the  whole  together,  seasoning  with  foies- 
gras  spices  (No.  168).  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pie  with  a  thick  layer  of  this  forcemeat, 
place  a  fine  well-seasoned  goose  liver  in  the  center,  then  some  peeled  truffles,  and  cover  with  more 
forcemeat,  rounding  it  well  on  top;  finish  the  pie  the  same  as  No.  2557,  baking  it  in  a  slack  oven 
for  three  hours  or  more,  according  to  its  size;  when  cold  fill  it  with  butter  and  lard  mixed  together. 

(2565).  QUAIL  PIE  (PatS  de  dailies). 

Prepare  a  forcemeat  as  described  in  No.  67,  and  press  through  a  sieve;  mix  into  it  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  plain  foies-gras  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  have  twelve  small  peeled  truffles.  Bone 
twelve  quails,  leaving  them  whole;  season  and  fill  with  the  above  forcemeat,  and  in  the  center  lay 
one  of  the  truffles;  enclose  the  contents  well.  Butter  a  low  pie  mold,  line  it  with  foundation  paste 
(No.  135),  and  cover  the  sides  and  bottom  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork;  over  this  set  a  layer  of  the 
forcemeat,  and  then  a  bed  of  the  quails  on  the  bottom;  on  top  of  these  place  more  forcemeat  con- 
taining a  salpicon  of  fat  pork  and  red  beef  tongue,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  the  forcemeat, 
then  another  bed  of  the  quails,  and  finish  with  forcemeat  raised  to  a  dome.  Cover  with  a  thin 
bard  of  fat  pork,  some  bay  leaves,  and  a  flat  of  the  same  paste;  smooth  the  summit;  pinch  all 
around  and  on  top,  and  decorate  the  dome  with  noodle  paste  leaves;  egg  over  twice,  and  bake 
the  pie  for  two  hours  and  a  half;  cool  partly  and  then  fill  with  jelly  (No.  103)  made  of  quail  fumet 
(No.  397)  and  Madeira  wine. 

(2566).  SALMON  PIE  (Pat6  de  Saumon). 

Cut  four  pounds  of  fresh  salmon  meat  into  large  fillets;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
put  them  in  a  vessel  with  two  or  three  raw  truffles  also  cut  in  fillets;  pour  over  a  little  Madeira  wine 
and  leave  to  macerate  for  one  hour.  With  some  raw  pike  or  gurnet,  the  salmon  parings,  panada, 
butter  or  veal  udder  and  egg-yolks  prepare  a  delicate  forcemeat  (No.  90),  and  when  strained  place 
it  in  a  vessel  to  beat  smooth  and  mix  in  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385), 
and  the  fish  marinade.  Butter  an  oblong  metal  pie  mold  selected  proportionately  to  the  quantity 
of  fish  and  forcemeat,  lay  it  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper  and  line  it  with  cold  pie  paste 
(No.  144).  Mask  the  bottom  and  sides  of  this  paste  with  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  in  the  hollow 
center  dress  the  fillets  of  salmon  and  truffles,  alternated  by  layers  of  forcemeat;  the  mold  should  be 
full  so  that  when  cooked  there  remains  little  or  no  empty  space  (the  top  layer  must  be  of  the  force- 
meat). Wet  the  edges  of  the  paste  and  cover  over  with  a  flat  of  the  same,  fastening  it  on  the 
edges;  then  cut  away  the  paste  on  a  level  with  the  mold  and  pinch  it  all  around.  Cover  the  top 
surface  above  the  border  with  a  fake  cover — meaning  a  simple  layer  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  cut 
the  same  shape  as  the  top  of  the  pie — and  in  the  center  of  this  make  a  small  opening;  egg  over 
and  decorate  the  top  with  designs  made  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  and  cook  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  in  a  moderate  oven,  being  careful  to  cover  the  paste  with  paper  as  soon  as  it  becomes  dry.  A 
quarter  of  an  hour  after  the  pie  has  been  removed  from  the  oven  pour  into  the  hole  on  top  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good  jelly  (No.  103)  mixed  with  fish  essence  (No.  395)  and  reduced  to  a  half-glaze,  also 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  Let  it  get  cold  for  ten  hours.  At  the  last  moment  cut  the  pie 
into  slices,  and  dress  these,  one  overlapping  the  other  on  a  long  dish,  and  surround  with  chopped 
jelly  and  jelly  croutons. 

(2567).  SNIPE  PIE  (Pat6  de  BScassines). 

Peel  and  cook  some  truffles  in  a  little  Madeira  wine,  cut  them  in  four  and  season;  singe  and  bone 
ten  snipe,  season  them,  and  with  their  intestines,  a  few  good  chicken  livers,  some  fragments  of  ham 
and  aromatic  herbs,  prepare  a  baking  forcemeat  (No.  64).  Have  a  chopped  game  forcemeat  (No. 
67),  pound  and  mix  with  it  the  baking  forcemeat  in  equal  quantity,  a  bit  of  garlic,  and  the  truffle 
parings;  force  the  whole  through  a  sieve.  With  some  cold  pie  paste  (No.  144)  line  a  low-hinged  bot- 
tomless mold,  place  it  on  a  baking  sheet  over  buttered  paper,  and  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
the  prepared  forcemeat;  in  the  hollow  center  dress  the  snipe,  alternated  with  more  of  the  chopped 
forcemeat  and  the  quartered  truffles;  pile  up  the  mold,  cover  with  thin  bards  of  fat  pork,  then  with 
a  layer  of  the  same  paste,  fastening  it  on  the  edge  of  the  under  paste;  cut  it  away  evenly  and 
pinch  the  edges;  make  a  small  hole  in  the  top  of  the  dome  and  decorate  the  latter  with  a  few 
imitation  noodle  paste  leaves  (No.  142),  then  egg  over  both  top  and  border.  Cook  the  pie  for  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven;  after  it  has  been  removed  pour  into  the  hole  on 


784  THE    EPICUREAN. 

top  some  game  fumet  (No.  397)  and  finish  it  the  same  as  a  duckling  pie  (No.  2555).  Let  it  be 
remembered  that  if  all  game  pies,  such  as  partridge,  pheasant,  reedbird,  etc.,  have  a  slight  bit  of 
garlic  mixed  in  with  the  forcemeat  it  will  add  greatly  to  the  aroma,  that  is  if  it  be  not  too  pre- 
dominant. 

(2568).  VEAL  AND  HAM  PIE  (Pat6  de  Veau  et  de  Jambon). 

Butter  a  large  pie  mold,  line  it  with  pie  paste  (No.  144),  and  lay  it  on  a  buttered  paper,  and 
this  on  a  tart  plate;  garnish  the  insides  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork.  Fill  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
forcemeat  made  with  two  pounds  of  fresh  pork  and  veal,  half  of  each,  and  two  pounds  of  fat  pork; 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  fine  herbs;  on  this  forcemeat  lay  slices  of  cooked  lean  ham,  and  over 
a  layer  of  forcemeat;  on  this  a  layer  of  thick  slices  of  kernel  of  veal  larded  with  fat  pork  (No.  2, 
Fig.  53),  and  seasoned  highly;  put  in  more  forcemeat  with  finely  chopped  lean  ham;  place  slices 
of  fat  pork  over,  and  a  bit  of  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  cover  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  forming  a 
crest,  pinch  the  edges  and  egg  over  twice;  on  top  lay  a  cover  of  puff  paste  (No.  146);  make  a  hole  in 
the  center  to  act  as  a  chimney.  Egg  over  twice;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours  and  a 
half.  To  be  well  assured  of  its  being  done  thrust  a  trussing  needle  through,  and  if  it  penetrates 
easily  and  comes  out  hot  and  dry,  then  the  pie  is  sufficiently  cooked;  when  cold  fill  with  jelly. 

(2569).  WOODCOCK  PIE  (Pat6  de  Becasses). 

Bone  six  woodcocks,  remove  the  pouches  and  gizzards,  and  fry  the  intestines  by  mixing  in 
with  them  two  pounds  of  game  forcemeat  (No.  67);  pound  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Fry  the 
fragments  of  the  birds  in  butter  with  a  small  mirepoix  of  onions,  carrots,  thyme,  bay  leaf  and  celery 
root,  all  cut  in  small  dice.  Bone  twelve  larks,  season  and  fill  them  with  the  boned  turkey  forcemeat 
mixed  with  their  intestines  previously  fried  in  butter;  press  through  a  sieve,  and  season  with  fine 
spices  (No.  168)  and  brandy.  Line  a  pie  mold  with  pie  paste  (No.  144);  cover  the  bottom  and  sides 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  at  the  bottom  lay  three  of  the  woodcocks  and  six  of  the  larks;  then 
another  bed  of  the  forcemeat,  the  three  other  woodcocks  and  the  six  other  larks;  finish  with  more 
forcemeat  and  a  bard  of  fat  pork;  wet  the  inside  edge,  cover  with  a  flat  of  paste,  and  fasten  it 
down;  smooth  the  top  nicely,  pinch  it  all  around  and  on  the  summit,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven; 
when  cold  fill  the  pie  with  partly  cold  jelly  (No.  103)  prepared  with  game  fumet  (No.  397). 

(2570).  PIG'S  HEAD  (Tete  ou  Hure  de  Pore). 

Have  a  well  scalded  and  cleaned  pig's  head,  singe  and  bone  without  destroying  the  skin,  begin- 
ning from  underneath;  fill  it  with  layers  of  fine  pork  forcemeat  (No.  68),  placing  on  each  one  some 
lardons  of  fat  pork  (No.  1,  Fig.  52),  pistachios,  truffles  and  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which 
chopped-up  ham  has  been  mixed,  and  then  rolled  into  the  same  sized  pieces  as  the  lardons.  When 
the  head  is  filled  sew  it  up  and  reshape  it  as  before,  then  wrap  it  in  a  cloth  and  cook  in  a  stock  (No. 
194a)  for  four  hours;  unwrap  and  return  it  to  the  cloth  to  give  it  the  shape  of  the  head;  unwrap 
once  more,  pare  well,  glaze  over  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  dress  on  a  low  socle;  put  in  glass 
eyes  and  place  natural  fangs  in  the  mouth;  decorate  the  head  with  tongue,  hard-boiled  egg-white 
and  pistachios;  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  a  border  of  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2571).  LAEDED  PULLET  WITH  JELLY  (Poularde  PiquSe  a  la  Gele"e), 

Break  the  breastbone  of  a  not  too  fat  pullet;  fill  in  the  breast  and  stomach  with  a  large  sal- 
picon  made  of  cooked  veal  udder,  truffles  and  cooked  foies-gras,  mixed  with  a  little  fine  galantine 


FIG.  520. 


forcemeat  (No.  65).     Cut  the  legs  from  the  pullet,  truss,  and  steep  the  breast  for  two  minutes  in 
boiling  water  to  stiffen  the  meats  and  facilitate  the  larding  with  lardons  (No.   3,  Ffg.  52).     Cook 


COLD    SERVICE.  785 

the  pullet  in  a  little  stock  (No.  194a),  basting  over  frequently;  finally  glaze  it  at  the  oven  door.  When 
cold  untruss,  detach  the  legs  and  cut  each  of  them  in  two,  then  cut  both  breasts  in  slices  and 
return  them  to  their  former  place.  Lay  the  pullet  on  a  wooden  foundation  covered  with  white 
paper  and  fastened  on  a  dish;  rearrange  the  two  pieces  of  each  leg,  thrusting  a  small  hatelet 
through,  in  their  original  places,  only  in  a  contrary  direction;  on  each  pinion  seta  pretty  favor  frill 
(No.  10).  Surround  the  pullet  with  a  thick  piping  of  chopped  jelly  forced  through  a  cornet  and  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  row  of  round  peeled  truffles  all  of  the  same  size,  then  cook  in  wine  and 
glaze  over  with  a  brush.  A  mayonnaise  with  fine  herb  sauce  (No.  612)  can  always  accompany 
this  cold  piece. 

(2572).  PTEAMID  OF  CRUSTACEANS  A  LA  KOCHELAISE  AND  PYRAMID  OP  CRAWPISH 

/ 

(Buisson  de  Crustacea  a  la  Rochelaise  et  Buisson  d'Ecrevisses), 

To  be  able  to  dress  this  entree  correctly  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  fasten  a  wooden  founda- 
tion on  a  dish,  having  it  two  inches  narrower  than  the  basin  of  the  dish  itself;  cover  it  with 
white  paper  and  in  the  center  attach  a  wooden  support  also  to  be  covered  with  paper;  this  latter 
must  be  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid,  its  base  measuring  four  and  a  half  inches,  its  top  two  inches  and 


FIG.  521. 


its  height  four  inches;  cover  its  surface  with  a  layer  of  butter.  This  pyramid  or  buisson  is  to  be 
composed  simply  of  large  slices  of  lobster  tails  and  of  red  shrimps,  after  suppressing  their  beards. 
The  shrimps  are  stuck  into  the  butter  on  the  pyramid  in  regular  circles,  but  having  each  row  lay 
in  a  contrary  direction;  the  slices  of  lobster  are  also  laid  in  close  circles  just  on  top  of  the  rows  of 
shrimps.  As  soon  as  all  are  dressed  cover  both  shrimps  and  lobster  with  half-set  jelly  applied 
with  a  brush.  In  order  to  insure  its  safety  it  is  advisable  to  push  a  thick  string  of  sticky  jelly 
(No.  2526)  through  a  cornet,  exactly  underneath  the  circle  of  lobster  slices,  so  as  to  give  them  a 
good  support.  The  hollow  formed  by  the  upper  row  of  shrimps  can  be  filled  in  with  chopped  jelly 
or  parsley  leaves,  or  else  with  a  crimped  paper  case  filled  with  a  round  truffle.  Surround  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  with  a  chain  of  pretty  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442)  cut  into  oblongs,  having  one  over- 
lap the  other.  Keep  the  buisson  in  a  cold  room  and  serve  it  with  a  sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  sauce 
(No.  606). 

Pyramid  of  Crawfish. — Crawfish  intended  for  this  dish  should  be  chosen  as  large  as  possible 
and  cooked  in  a  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39),  then  left  to  cool  in  the  stock.  When  cold  break 
off  the  small  legs.  Generally  a  buisson  of  shellfish  is  dressed  on  a  tin  step  shelf  made  with  pro- 
jecting ledges,  each  one  furnished  with  hooks  on  which  the  crawfish  can  be  hung;  these  ledges  are 
movable  and  are  placed  at  any  desired  distance  from  each  other,  according  to  the  length  of  the 
fish,  but  there  must  be  no  openings  left  between.  The  pyramid  ought  first  to  be  fastened  on  to  the 
center  of  a  large  dish  and  the  empty  space  filled  in  with  parsley  leaves  or  water  cress;  surround  the 
base  with  a  bush  of  green,  then  fasten  on  the  crawfish  by  the  tails,  beginning  at  the  lower  ledge. 
Between  the  edge  of  the  dish  and  the  pyramid  dress  the  remainder  of  the  crawfish,  laying  them 
down  flat  with  the  heads  turned  outward  and  the  claws  hanging  over.  This  pyramid  after  being 
dressed  should  be  laid  on  a  large  tray;  have  this  placed  in  the  center  of  the  table.  The  green  and 
the  pronounced  red  of  the  crawfish  form  a  pleasant  contrast  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon. 

(2573).  SADDLE  OF  VENISON  A  LA  HARDER  (Selle  de  Ohevreuil  a  la  Harder). 
Roast  to  a  fine   color   a  medium-sized  saddle  of  venison,  after  having  marinated  it  for 
two  days,  and  then  larded  it  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52);  glaze  and  let  stand  till  cold,  then 


786  THE    EPICUREAN. 

raise  up  the  sirloin  part  and  cut  it  in  pretty  slices,  either  bias  or  lengthwise.  Add  to  some  Madeira 
poivrade  sauce  (No.  620)  the  same  quantity  of  jelly;  reduce,  despumate  and  pass  it  through  a 
tammy;  put  it  away  on  ice  to  cool,  stirring  it  incessantly  in  the  meantime  until  very  nearly  cold, 
then  dip  each  slice  into  this  chaudfroid  and  restore  them  to  their  respective  places,  reshaping  the 
saddle  as  originally,  and  entirely  cover  over  with  the  chaudfroid;  then  dress  on  along  dish.  Place 
around  on  a  bed  of  jelly  some  artichoke  bottoms,  having  some  garnished  with  small  carrot  balls, 
others  with  turnips,  others  with  cauliflower,  others  with  string  beans  cut  lozerge-shape,  and  others 
with  English  green  peas;  all  of  these  vegetables  to  be  cooked  separately,  cooled,  well  seasoned 
and  mixed  with  a  little  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  At  the  ends  place  two  fine  cauliflowers 
boiled  in  salted  water  and  butter,  left  to  cool  in  their  liquid,  then  drained  properly  and  laid  in  a 
vessel  to  have  a  seasoning  poured  over  of  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper;  baste  several 
times  with  this  seasoning,  then  drain  and  cover  with  jellied  mayonnaise.  Around  the  whole  lay 
a  pretty  border  of  evenly  cut  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2574).  COLD  SALMIS  OP  PAETEIDGES  (Salmis  Froid  de  Perdreaux). 

Roast  two  partridges,  cut  them  up,  being  careful  to  have  all  the  pieces  nicely  pared,  and  to 
suppress  the  skin,  leavingon  as  little  bone  as  possible;  range  these  when  prepared  on  a  small  baking 
sheet  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place;  have  also  a  round  serving  dish  laid  aside  on  the  ice.  Prepare 
a  salmis  sauce  (No.  536)  with  the  parings  and  bones;  strain  it  into  a  small  saucepan  to  cool,  while 
stirring  occasionally,  then  incorporate  into  it  slowly  two  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine  and  several 
more  of  good  cold  jelly  (No.  103);  beat  this  on  ice  to  thicken  as  a  chaudfroid  sauce.  Dip  each  piece 
of  game  singly  into  this  sauce  to  envelop  thoroughly;  drain  and  dress  in  a  pyramid  form  in  the 
center  of  a  cold  dish,  reserving  the  choicest  pieces  for  the  top;  leave  the  entree  on  ice  for  another 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Garnish  the  wings  and  legs  with  paper  frills  (No.  10),  surround  the  base  of  the 
pyramid  with  chopped  jelly  or  croutons  of  jelly  (No.  2442),  and  small  glazed  truffles  laid  in  cases. 

(2575).  COLD  SALMIS  OF  QUAILS  A  LA  BALZAC  (Salmis  Proid  de  Oailles  a  la  Balzac). 

Roast  eight  quails;  remove  the  breasts  and  break  up  the  legs  and  bones.  Fry  some  shallots  in 
butter,  moisten  with  white  wine  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413);  put  in  the  broken-up 
carcasses  and  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  add  two 
gelatine  leaves,  so  as  to  thicken  to  a  good  consistency.  Decorate  some  pigeon  ballotine  molds,  the 
same  as  ballotines  a  la  Madison  (No.  2427),  with  fanciful  cuts  of  egg-white  and  tongue;  coat  with 
jelly  and  lay  the  breasts  in  the  center;  finish  filling  with  the  cooled-off  jelly;  unmold  the  ballotines, 
range  them  in  a  circle  on  a  bread  socle  covered  with  green  butter  (No.  583),  and  fill  the  center  with 
chopped  jelly,  and  around  with  croutons  (No.  2442). 

'  (2576).  SALMON  DAENE,  DEOOEATED  (Darne.  de  Saumon  Historic). 

Cut  a  darne  or  thick  five-inch  slice  from  the  middle  of  a  large  salmon  after  it  has  been  scaled, 
emptied  and  cleaned.  Lay  it  straight  on  the  grate  of  a  fish-kettle,  salt  it  over  liberally  and  let  it 
macerate  for  half  an  hour.  Boil  in  court-bouillon  (No.  38).  (It  should  remain  at  the  boiling  point 
until  cooked.)  Leaving  it  in  the  fish  kettle  until  thoroughly  cold,  drain  off  the  darne,  then  remove 
the  skin,  wipe  the  fish,  and  cover  the  surfaces  with  a  thin  layer  of  Montpellier  butter  (No.  582), 


FIG.  522. 

softened  to  a  proper  degree.  Slide  the  darne  at  once  on  to  a  wooden  dish  foundation  covered  over 
with  white  paper;  smooth  the  butter  well,  and  set  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  to  harden.  Fill  the 
hollow  in  the  center  of  the  darne  with  a  variegated  vegetable  salad;  decorate  the  top  with  strips 
of  green  butter  alternated  with  mayonnaise,  and  decorate  the  sides  with  a  fine  relief  wreath 
made  of  green  and  white  butter,  and  ornamented  with  fanciful  bits  of  gherkin,  lobster  and 


COLD    SERVICE. 


787 


cooked  truffles.  Surround  the  base  of  the  fish  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs  standing  upright 
(No.  2513),  alternated  with  small  clusters  of  chopped  jelly  or  cooked  green  peas.  Serve  with  a 
sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

(2577),  SALMON  SLICED  AND  DECOKATED  (Tranches  de  Saumon  Histories). 
Take  two  two-inch  slices  from  the  middle  of  a  large  salmon;  after  cleaning  them  nicely  lay  them 
in  salt  for  one  hour;  place  them  on  the  grate  of  a  fish-kettle  and  cover  profusely  with  cold  water, 
adding  to  it  a  large  sprig  of  parsley  and  a  gill  of  vinegar;  set  the  kettle  on  the  fire,  skim  the 
liquid  and  at  the  first  boil  withdraw  it  to  one  side  so  as  to  have  it  quiver  only  for  forty  to  forty-five 
minutes;  let  cool  in  the  stock,  then  remove  the  fish  with  the  grate  and  let  drain  for  half  an  hour. 


FIG.  523. 

Trim  the  slices,  lift  off  the  skin,  wipe  neatly,  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cover  the  sides  with 
a  layer  of  Montpellier  butter  (No.  582);  smooth  it  nicely  and  set  aside  on  ice  to  cool.  Decorate  the 
sides  and  tops  of  these  slices  of  fish  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  gherkins  and  hard-boiled  egg- 
whites,  being  careful  to  dip  each  piece  into  half-set  jelly  before  applying  it.  Dress  the  two  slices 
on  a  thin  wooden  double  support  covered  with  white  paper,  and  in  the  center  of  the  dish  on  both 
sides  arrange  a  cluster  of  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650)  dressed  with  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  on  the 
salad  lay  a  large  cooked  crawfish  and  surround  the  slices  with  halved  hard-boiled  eggs,  having  the 
yolks  hidden  under  a  round  piece  of  truffle.  On  both  ends  of  the  support  fasten  two  tasteful 
hatelets  of  red  prawns,  slanting  them  outward.  Serve  with  the  fish  a  separate  mayonnaise  sauce 
(No.  606). 


(2578).  SLICE  OP  SALMON  WITH  JELLY  (Trongon  de  Saumon  a  la  Gele"e). 
Cut  from  the  middle  of  a  large  clean  salmon  a  slice  ten  inches  long;  salt  it  over  well  and  lay  it 
on  the  grate  of  a  fish-kettle  on  the  belly  side;  tie  it  down  to  the  grate  with  a  string  to  keep  it  in 
place,  and  cover  it  with  cold  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39);  heat  the  liquid  while 
skimming,  and  at  the  first  boil  withdraw  it  to  one  side  so  as  to  keep  it  quivering  for  one 
hour,  then  allow  it  to  get  partly  cold  in  its  own  stock.  Remove  the  fish  with  the  grate  and  let 


FIG.  524. 

it  become  thoroughly  cold,  then  leave  it  to  drain  for  a  couple  of  hours;  wipe  it  off  very 
cautiously,  leaving  the  skin  as  entire  as  possible;  now  slide  the  fish  on  an  oval  wooden  foundation 
covered  with  white  paper  and  fastened  on  a  long  dish;  support  the  slice  on  both  sides  so  as  to 
maintain  it  level,  and  cover  the  surface  with  half-set  jelly  applied  with  a  brush.  Surround  it 
with  small  artichoke  bottoms  or  hard  eggs,  a  la  Develle  (No.  2502),  fill  with  a  vegetable  salad  (No. 
2650),  and  decorate  around  with  Jelly  crusts  cut  in  triangles;  serve  at  the  same  time  two  sauce- 
boats  of  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 


788  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2579).    SALMON  A  LA  AVELANE    (Saumon  a  la  Avelane). 

Prepare  and  cook  a  salmon  the  same  as  explained  a  la  Destaing  (No.  2580);  when  cold  cover 
it  with  butter,  then  with  several  coats  of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).     Decorate  with  fanciful  cuts 


FIG.  525. 

of  jelly  dipped  in  partly  cold  jelly,  forming  a  medallion  as  shown  in  drawing.  Coat  over  with  a 
layer  of  jelly  (No.  103)  by  means  of  a  funnel  having  a  handle  and  spring  stopper  (Fig.  759).  Place 
the  salmon  on  the  socle  and  garnish  both  sides  with  halved  eggs  decorated  with  truffles;  between 
these  place  small  mounds  of  chopped  jelly. 

(2580).  SALMON  A  LA  DESTAING  (Saumon  a  la  Destaing). 

Have  a  very  fresh  twelve  to  sixteen-pound  salmon;  dress,  that  is,  scrape  off  the  scales,  sup- 
press the  gills,  and  empty  it  by  making  an  incision  in  the  belly;  wash  it  very  clean,  pare 
off  the  fins,  and  lay  the  salmon  on  a  fish-kettle  grate,  on  its  side,  the  head  resting  toward 
the  left;  cover  with  cold  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39)  and  stand  the  kettle  on  a  hot  fire; 
remove  it  at  the  first  boil,  and  keep  the  liquid  at  boiling  heat,  without  allowing  it  to  boil  up,  for 
one  hour  for  a  twelve-pound  salmon,  and  one  hour  and  a  half  for  a  sixteen-pound  one.  Let  it 
cool  off  in  its  own  stock,  then  drain  well  for  two  hours.  Remove  the  skin  and  sanguineous 
parts  in  the  center  so  that  the  meat  itself  is  entirely  exposed,  then  slide  it  on  a  board  of  its  own 
dimensions.  Place  a  small  bread  crouton,  shaped  like  the  tail  (a  slightly  lengthened  triangle), 
at  the  extreme  end  of  the  tail,  it  being  shaved  down  to  almost  nothing;  fill  the  empty  part 
of  the  fish  with  butter.  Work  some  butter  in  a  bowl  and  when  very  white,  smooth  and 
frothy,  use  it  to  cover  the  entire  fish;  have  a  strong  straight  band  of  paper,  one  inch  in 
width,  pass  it  over  the  butter  several  times  until  smooth,  following  the  outlines  of  the  salmon,  and 
let  get  thoroughly  cold;  now  cover  it  with  a  sufficiently  thick  and  smooth  layer  of  half-set  red 
jelly,  decorate  this  with  truffles,  pistachios,  hard  egg-white,  and  the  red  part  of  lobster  meat; 
imitate  the  eye,  mouth  and  gills,  covering  it  over  with  more  jelly.  Dress  it  either  on  a  socle  or 
large  dish,  and  surround  with  small  shrimp  aspics  molded  in  timbale  molds  (No.  2.  Fig.  137),  dec- 
orated with  eggs  and  truffles,  filling  them  with  a  salpicon  of  shrimp  mingled  with  jellied  mayon- 
naise (No.  613),  and  fillets  of  sole,  pared  round.  Cover  with  jellied  mayonnaise,  to  which  add 
chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  then  mask  this  over  with  jelly.  Serve  some  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 
606)  separately. 

(2581).    SALMON  A  LA  FAKKAGUT  (Saumon  a  la  Farragut). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  fish  as  a  la  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover  with  creamy  white  butter  and  let 
it  get  thoroughly  cold;  on  the  central  part  lay  a  thin  band  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573),  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  thick  by  ten  inches  wide,  so  as  to  entirely  cover  this  part  of  the  fish.  Decorate  the  top 
with  fanciful  bits  of  truffles,  crawfish  tails,  anchovies  and  tarragon  leaves;  when  the  fish  is  very 
cold,  cover  it  over  with  light  red  half -set  jelly,  and  place  it  on  its  socle  or  dish;  garnish  around 
with  sixteen  small  crawfish  tartlets  prepared  as  follows:  Make  some  tartlets  with  fine  foundation 
paste  (No.  135),  and  when  cold  fill  them  either  with  crawfish  tails  or  oysters,  clams,  etc.,  that  have 
been  laid  in  a  marinade,  and  then  cover  with  half-set  jelly.  Between  these  tartlets  place 
sixteen  white  onions  about  one  and  three-eighths  inches  in  diameter,  from  which  cut  off 
about  an  eighth  of  the  stalk  end,  and  as  much  from  the  root  end;  blanch  for  five  minutes 
in  plenty  of  water,  then  refresh  and  cook  slightly  firm  in  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39); 
drain,  empty,  and  fill  them  up  with  Cambridge  butter  (No.  570),  or  else  marinate  them  for 
two  hours  in  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper.  Place  these  onions  on  round  pieces  of  beetroot  one  inch 
in  diameter,  and  empty  them  with  a  half-inch  tube.  Cut  eight  more  onions  in  three  even  parts 
across  and  use  only  the  two  end  pieces;  blanch  them  in  salted  water  and  vinegar,  drain  and  fill 
with  jellied  ravigote  mayonnaise,  made  by  mixing  ravigote  sauce  (No.  623)  with  jellied  mayonaise 
(No.  613);  place  them  over  the  others,  and  arrange  small  sprigs  of  green  water  cress  on  top. 
A  print  aniere  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  612)  is  to  be  served  separately. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


789 


(2582).  SALMON  A  LA  MODERN,  ON  SOCLE  (Saumon  k  la  Moderne  sur  Socle). 
The  fish,  as  represented  in  Fig.  526,  is  laid  on  its  belly  on  a  long  wooden  foundation  covered 
over  with  white  paper;  the  foundation  with  the  fish  is  placed  on  a  socle,  and  this  is  standing  on 
a  large  tray.  Every  part  is  movable  and  independent,  so  that  the  piece  can  be  easily  transported. 
The  tray  is  made  of  wood  of  oval  form,  with  rounded  prolongations  on  each  end;  it  stands  on 
several  feet;  the  body  of  the  tray  is  simply  covered  with  white  paper,  and  it  has  an  open-work, 
silvered  border.  The  socle  is  oval  and  hollow,  it  being  made  of  two  pieces  of  wood,  one  wider  than 
the  other,  but  fastened  together  in  the  center  by  a  solid  wooden  support;  the  outlines  of  the  socle 
are  made  of  small  pieces  of  board,  or  simply  of  strong  cardboard  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of 
modeling  fat  (No.  56).  The  ornaments  on  the  frieze  and  base  of  the  socle  are  white  and  modeled  in 
fat.  The  waterfall  forming  the  frieze  is  made  in  pieces,  stamped  in  a  plaster  cast,  and  put  to- 
gether, and  are  upheld  by  a  tin  band  projecting  out  all  around  the  top  of  the  socle.  The  balls  can 
also  be  made  in  plaster  casts  in  two  separate  pieces,  then  put  together.  The  two  small  socles 
placed  on  the  rounded  ends  of  the  tray  can  be  made  of  fat  on  a  mandrel,  or  else  molded  in  stearine; 


FIG.  526. 

they  are  movable  but  are  held  in  place  by  a  wooden  peg  fixed  in  the  tray,  and  passing  up  through 
the  base  of  the  socle;  each  one  of  these  is  filled  with  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650).  dressed 
in  a  pyramid  and  surmounted  by  slices  of  lobster.  To  cook  the  salmon  whole  it  should  be  drawn 
through  the  gills,  after  scaling,  and  the  inside  filled  with  an  ordinary  bread  stuffing  (No.  61), 
then  trussed;  fasten  it  erect  on  the  grate  of  a  fish-kettle  with  string;  cover  with  white  wine 
court-bouillon  (No.  39);  heat  up  the  liquid,  skimming  it  at  the  first  boil,  and  leave  it 
on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  quiver  for  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half:  remove  and  cool 
partly  on  the  grate  out  of  the  water.  Untie  it  when  cold,  drain  and  lay  it  on  the  oval 
foundation,  supporting  it  in  two  places  on  each  side  with  wedges  and  supports,  so  as  to  keep  it  in 
position.  These  supports  are  hidden  under  sprigs  of  parsley  leaves,  then  brushed  over  with  half- 
set  jelly.  The  small  trout  which  constitute  the  garnishing  on  the  front  of  the  tray  are  cooked  au 
bleu,  as  directed  in  No.  1297,  well  drained  and  laid  in  two  symmetrical  rows  on  a  bed  of  chopped 
sticky  jelly  (No.  2526);  they  are  then  covered  over  with  jelly  the  same  as  the  salmon.  These  two 
rows  of  trout  are  separated  by  a  cluster  of  round,  peeled  and  cooked  truffles  after  being  covered 
with  jelly  (No.  103)  or  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  this  cluster  of  truffles  may  be  replaced  by  one  of  red 
shrimps  or  simply  by  fresh  parsley  leaves.  This  dish  as  represented  in  the  design  is  intended  for 
a  sideboard  supper  or  a  ball;  it  must  be  accompanied  by  four  sauce-boats  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 
606). 

(2583).  SALMON  A  LA  REGENCE,  ON  SOCLE  (Saumon  a  la  Re~gence  sur  Socle). 
Arrange  and  cook  the  salmon  the  same  as  for  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover  with  a  very  smooth 
layer  of  white  butter,  then  with  one  or  two  coats  of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  When  cold  dec- 
orate to  imitate  the  head  of  the  fish  and  ornament  the  surface  with  small  truffle  crescents  graduated 
in  size,  or  else  with  a  large  oval  medallion  about  half  the  length  of  the  salmon.  Let  the  fish  be 
very  cold,  then  cover  with  a  coating  of  half-set  jelly;  lay  it  on  a  socle  and  garnish  around 
with  a  border  of  halved  eggs  filled  with  macedoine  (No.  2508);  between  this  border  and  the  fish 
place  lettuce  hearts  cut  in  foar.  Serve  a  well-seasoned  printaniere  mayonnaise  (No.  619)  with  the 
salmon. 


790  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2584).  SALMON  A  LA  SEYMOUK  (Saumon  a  la  Seymour). 

Have  a  salmon  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  Destaing  (No.  2580) ;  carefully  suppress  the 
skin  and  the  brown  parts  of  the  meat;  fill  the  inside  with  butter  and  cover  with  several  layers  of 
pale  pink  jelly;  decorate  with  fanciful  cuts  of  egg-white  and  pistachios  and  garnish  around  with 
marinated  lobster  escalops  covered  with  white  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  on  which  strew  truffles, 
gherkins  and  egg-white,  each  of  these  to  be  chopped  up  separately;  then  mask  with  jelly;  decorate 
with  basket-shaped  eggs  (No.  2508);  also  have  lettuce  hearts  cut  in  four  and  at  each  end  plaoe 
green  water  cress.  Accompany  this  fish  by  a  sauce-boat  of  ravigote  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  612). 

(2585).  SALMON  A  LA  COUKBET  (Saumon  a  la  Courbet). 

Have  the  salmon  already  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  the  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover  it 
with  softened  and  smooth  crawfish  butter  (No.  573)  and  decorate  through  a  cornet;  dredge  the 
whole  surface  lightly  with  lobster  coral  chopped  exceedingly  fine  and  sifted  through  a  sieve.  Lay 
the  fish  on  a  socle  and  garnish  around  with  lobster  escalops  covered  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No. 
613)  and  strew  the  surface  with  finely  chopped  truffles;  between  the  escalops  place  clusters  of  fine 
large  shrimp  tails  covered  with  jelly,  and  between  each  moscovite  egg  garnishing  (No.  2511).  Insert 
in  the  fish  three  hatelets  composed  of  crawfish  and  decorated  quenelles.  Serve  a  mayonnaise 
cardinal  sauce  (No.  608)  at  the  same  time. 

(2586).  SALMON,  EUSSIAN  STYLE  (Saumon  a  la  Eusse). 

Prepare  and  cook  the  salmon  the  same  as  for  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover  with  white  butter,  then 
with  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  into  which  stir  as  much  slightly  dissolved  jelly  (No.  103);  cover  it  well 
through  a  funnel  the  same  as  explained  for  a  la  Avelane  (No.  2579)  and  scatter  over  truffles,  egg- 
white,  lobster  coral  and  parsley,  all  finely  and  separately  chopped.  Imitate  the  eyes  and  gills  and 
garnish  around  with  Polish  eggs  (No.  2512),  and  between  each  egg  place  large  oysters,  blanched, 
marinated  and  covered  with  a  white  chaudf  roid  (No.  596).  Decorate  the  intersections  with  lettuce 
and  water  cress  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  tartar  sauce  (No.  631). 

(2587).  SALMON,  VENETIAN  STYLE  (Saumon  a  la  Venitienne). 

Cook  and  prepare  the  salmon  the  same  as  the  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover  it  with  ravigote  butter 
(No.  583),  and  lay  over  this  on  its  entire  surface  one  or  several  beds  of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613) 
of  a  light  green  shade;  decorate  with  gherkins,  capers,  branches  of  chervil  and  tarragon  leaves, 
imitate  the  eyes  and  gills  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  thin  layer  of  jelly.  Dress  the  fish  on  a  dish 
or  socle  and  garnish  around  with  paupiettes  of  smelts  laid  over  some  artichoke  bottoms;  be- 
tween these  put  quartered  eggs  (No.  2513);  intersect  clusters  of  water  cress  and  lettuce  hearts  cut 
in  four  and  chopped  jelly.  Decorate  with  three  hatelets,  two  of  shrimps  and  one  of  crawfish. 
A  green  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  612)  accompanies  this  salmon. 

(2588).  SALMON,  WITH  MONTPELLIEE  OK  CAMBEIDGE  BUTTEE  (Saumon  au  Beurre  de  Mont- 

pellier  ou  au  Beurre  de  Cambridge). 

The  salmon  must  first  be  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  the  Destaing  (No.  2580);  cover 
it  either  with  Montpellier  butter  (No.  582),  or  Cambridge  butter  (No.  570);  decorate  through  a 
cornet  and  in  the  center  form  a  medallion ;  lay  here  and  there  olives,  capers  and  sliced  pickled 
gherkins,  and  garnish  around  with  trussed  crawfish,  lettuce  hearts,  water  cress  and  hard  eggs  cut 
as  barrels  (No.  2507),  also  oysters  covered  with  ravigote  jelly.  Serve  a  remoulade  sauce  (No.  624) 
separately. 

(2589).  SLICED  SHEEPSHEAD  WITH  JELLY  (Tranches  de  Sheepshead  a  la  Gelfo), 

Cut  off  two  fine  slices  ot  raw  sheepshead,  salt  over  and  leave  to  macerate  for  one  hour.  Fry 
in  butter  or  oil  a  root  and  a  minced  onion;  add  root  mirepoix  with  aromatics,  parsley  and  a  clove  of 
garlic;  moisten  with  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39),  having  plenty  of  it  so  as  to  cover  the  fish 
well,  and  boil  the  liquid  for  an  hour,  then  strain.  Put  the  slices  of  sheepshead  into  a  deep  earthen 
dish,  suitable  to  be  placed  in  the  oven,  cover  over  with  the  marinade  stock  and  then  with  a  strong 
paper;  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  up  once  before  pushing  the  dish  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  the  fish 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  After  taking  it  out  drain  off  the  slices,  remove  the  skin  and  lay  them 
in  a  deep  serving  dish;  strain  the  stock,  lift  off  all  the  fat  from  the  surface  and  mix  in  with  it  the 


COLD    SERVICE.  791 

same  amount  of  very  thick  aspic  jelly  (No.  103)  and  a  dash  of  good  vinegar;  pour  this  into  the  dish 
containing  the  fish  and  decorate  the  top  with  thin  slices  of  lemon.  After  the  jelly  has  become  hard 
serve  the  fish  accompanied  by  a  sauce-boat  of  grated  horseradish,  mixed  with  a  little  good  cream. 

(2590).  SHELLS  OF  CAPON  WITH  JELLY  (Coquilles  de  Ohapon  a  la  Gelfe). 
Cut  up  into  small  dice  the  white  meats  of  a  capon;  put  them  in  a  bowl  with  a  third  of  their 
quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms  cut  the  same  size;  season  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  let  mace- 
rate for  half  an  hour,  then  drain  off  the  seasoning  and  put  the  salpicon  into  a  mayonnaise  (No.  606), 
stirring  into  it  two  spoonfuls  of  gherkins  likewise  cut  in  dice  pieces.  With  this  preparation  fill 
some  shells,  have  the  tops  bomb-shaped  and  cover  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  mayonnaise,  then  smooth 
the  surface  with  a  knife,  decorate  the  top  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  gherkins  and  some  beets; 
dress  the  shells  on  a  folded  napkin  with  sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  center. 

(2591).  SHELLS  OF  PERCH  OR  RED  SNAPPER  (Coquilles  de  Perche  on  de  Red  Snapper). 

Cold  shells  are  prepared  with  the  same  materials  as  the  hot  shells,  using  the  cold  meats  of 
perch,  red  snapper,  salmon,  bass,  sole,  halibut,  turbot.  lobster  or  crawfish,  the  manner  of  prepara- 
tion differing  only.  Cut  the  cold  fish  into  small  three-eighths  of  an  inch  dice  and  put  them  into  a 
bowl  with  a  third  as  much  cooked  mushrooms,  as  many  truffles  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gherkins  cut 
the  same  as  the  fish;  season  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar  and  let  macerate  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Drain  the  seasoning  from  the  salpicon  and  replace  it  by  a  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  and  with 
this  preparation  fill  up  the  shells,  smoothing  the  surface  to  a  dome  and  covering  them  over  with  a 
layer  of  the  same  mayonnaise;  decorate  the  tops  with  details  of  smoked  salmon,  truffles,  egg-white 
and  gherkins,  cut  out  with  a  column  tube.  Surround  the  base  of  each  one  of  the  domes  with  a 
string  of  chopped  jelly  pushed  through  a  cornet. 

(2592).  SOCLES  AND  ORNAMENTS  (Socles  et  Ornements). 
These  socles,  as  represented  by  Fig.  527-528,  are  made  on  a  stand  covered  with  modeling  fat  (No. 


FIG.  537. 

56)  and  cutout  with  a  knife,  then  ornamented  either  through  a  cornet  or  else  with  a  border  of  fanciful 
pieces  stamped  in  a  mold  or  molded.  These  two  socles,  although  differently  ornamented,  are  both 
constructed  on  the  same  principle  and  on  the  same  plan. 


792 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Small  socles  are  intended  for  decorating  a  sideboard  of  small  dimensions;  they  can  also  be 
placed  on  a  dinner  table,  either  to  figure  as  a  center-piece — should  there  be  no  other — or  at  the 
ends  of  the  table  if  there  be  two,  but  in  that  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  the  upper  garnishings 
and  decorations  dressed  on  a  dish,  instead  of  being  directly  on  the  socle,  so  they  can  be  readily 


FIG.  528. 

removed  and  handed  to  the  guests.     In  either  case  the  socles  should  be  fastened  on  a  large  dish 
or  tray. 

Each  socle  stands  on  a  solid,  wooden,  hollow   drum  that  answers  for  a  base;  on  top  of  the 
socle  is  another  low-shaped  drum,  also  made  of  wood  and  covered  with  white  paper,  having  in  its 


FIG.  529. 


center  a  thin  wooden  support  forming  a  pyramid  and  arranged  in  such  a  way  that  it  can  afford  a 
perfect  support  to  the  garnishings;  this  support  has  on  its  top  a  small  platform  on  which  can  be 
laid  any  desired  object  or  subject. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


793 


The  garnishings  on  the  first  of  these  socles  (Fig.  527)  is  composed  of  small  cold  chicken  or  par- 
tridge galantines  made  oval,  then  cut  up,  reconstructed  and  covered  over  with  a  blond  chaudf roid  (No. 
596).  They  stand  almost  upright,  leaning  against  the  central  support,  but  to  be  more  assured  of  their 
safety  it  were  advisable  to  inclose  each  galantine  on  the  bottom  with  a  solid  wooden  or  cardboard 
shoe,  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe.  The  galantines  are  decorated  after  they  are  dressed,  and  are  then 
covered  with  half-set  jelly.  Exactly  on  top  of  these  galantines  lay  a  row  of  small  paper  cases  filled 
with  truffles,  and  fasten  them  against  the  central  support.  On  the  platform  above  is  set  a  small 


Fio.  530. 

modeled  or  cast  subject.  The  base  of  the  small  drum  on  which  the  galantines  rest  is  surrounded 
by  a  row  of  round,  even-sized  truffles,  peeled  and  glazed  over  with  a  brush. 

The  garnishings  for  the  second  socle  consist  of  seven  or  eight  large  crimped  paper  cases  shaped 
into  half-hearts,  pointed  on  one  end  and  rounded  on  the  other.  These  cases  are  filled  with  a 
frothy  foies-gras  preparation  made  the  same  as  for  pheasant  cutlets,  smoothed  dome-shaped  and 
covered  with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  594). 

The  figure  on  top  represents  a  satyr  seated  on  a  rock,  under  which  is  laid  a  row  of  small  cases 
containing  truffles.  The  base  of  the  small  drum  on  which  the  garnishings  repose  may  be  deco- 
rated with  small  cases  of  truffles  or  with  fine  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

Let  it  be  observed  that  the  garnishings  for  these  socles  can  be  modified  or  replaced  by 
others. 

(2593),  SOLES  A  LA  MAZAGKAN-PILLET.S  (Filets  de  Soles  a  la  Mazagran). 
This  entree  is  to  be  dressed  on  a  wooden  foundation  fastened  to  a  dish  having  a  pyramidica-l 


FIG.  531. 


wooden  support  in  its  center,  both  to  be  covered  with  white  paper.  First  prepare  a  small  variegated 
macedoine  salad  (No.  2650);  let  it  macerate  for  two  hours  in  its  seasoning,  then  drain  it  off,  and 
dress  the  salad  with  thick  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  and  keep  it  on  ice.  Suppress  the  shells  from  the 


704  THE    EPICUREAN. 

claws  and  tails  of  two  lobsters  simply  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  and  left  till  cold;  split 
the  claws  in  two  tfirough  their  thickness,  and  brush  over  with  half -set  jelly,  so  as  to  be  able  to 
fasten  them  together  again;  also  divide  the  tail  meats  into  several  slices  from  top  to  bottom,  and 
wet  each  slice  with  half-set  jelly,  so  as  to  be  able  to  reshape  them  as  before;  keep  these  tails  and 
claws  on  ice.  Cook  the  fillets  of  three  soles  in  a  baking  tin  with  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No. 
39),  and  as  soon  as  done  drain  and  range  them  on  another  baking  tin  and  cover  over  with  but- 
tered paper;  let  cool  off  under  a  weight,  then  pare  them  all  of  the  same  length,  not  too  freely, 
suppressing  only  the  thin  ends.  Take  the  fillets  up  one  by  one,  dip  them  into  a  white  chaudfroid 
sauce  (No.  596),  reduced  with  a  part  of  the  stock  they  are  cooked  in,  and  range  then  once  more 
on  the  same  tin,  keeping  them  a  slight  distance  apart;  cool  them  off  on  ice,  and  then  cut  away 
the  surplus  sauce.  "With  the  prepared  salad,  mingled  with  the  fragments  of  lobster  tail,  cover  the 
pyramidical  support  all  around  so  as  to  increase  its  thickness,  but  keeping  it  in  the  same  shape; 
smooth  and  cover  over  with  a  layer  of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  Against  this  pyramid  dress  the 
fillets  of  soles  standing  upright,  one  overlapping  the  other,  and  cover  them  with  half-set  jelly  put 
on  with  a  brush.  On  top  of  the  pyramid  dress  the  two  prepared  claw?  and  tails,  surround  them 
with  a  thick  string  of  chopped  jelly  to  keep  them  in  position  and  cover  them  as  well  with  the 
half-set  jelly.  Place  all  around  the  bottom  of  the  dish  even-sized  fine  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442), 
and  keep  the  dish  for  ten  minutes  on  ice,  then  serve  with  a  separate  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 

(2594).  STURGEON  OR   STERLET,  LIVONIENNE-SMALL  (Petit  Esturgeon  ou   Sterlet  Livon- 

ienne). 

Clean  the  fish  and  put  it  in  a  fish-kettle  to  moisten  with  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No.  39); 
boil  and  leave  to  cool  off  in  its  stock,  then  dress  it  on  a  dish,  having  carefully  preserved  the  fish 
perfectly  whole;  let  get  thoroughly  cold  in  the  ice-box.  Cover  over  with  half-set  jelly  or  else  with 
fish-glaze  (No.  399)  and  crawfish  butter  (No.  573);  decorate  it  around  with  trussed  crawfish,  herring 
paupiettes  (No.  789),  cucumbers  stuffed  with  vegetables,  gherkins,  olives,  chopped  jelly  and 
croutons.  Serve  a  mayonnaise  ravigote  sauce  (No.  612)  at  the  same  time. 

(2595).  SWEETBREADS  A  LA  MIRABEAU  (Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Mirabeau). 
Braise  (No.  12)  the  sweetbreads  first,  and  as  soon  as  done  put  them  in  the  press  (Fig.  71)  or  under 
a  light  weight;  cut  them  in  two  on  their  thickness;  with  a  two  inch  in  diameter  pastry  cutter  cut  out 
some  round  pieces,  cover  with  blond  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  and  decorate  each  with  a  handsome 
rosette  of  very  black  truffles;  cover  over  with  half-set  jelly,  and  range  them  on  top  of  a  macedoine 
salad  (No.  2650),  dressed  with  mayonnaise  piled  into  a  high  dome;  have  a  border  of  jelly  croutons 
around,  and  serve  tartar  sauce  (No.  631)  separately. 

(2596).  TERRINE  OF  DUCKS'  LIVER  A  L'AQUITAINE  (Terrine  de  Poles  de  Canards  k 

1'Aquitaine). 

Put  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  fat  ducks'  liver  in  a  terrine,  after  removing  the  gall,  seasoned 
with  foies-gras  spices  (No.  168)  and  larded  with,  large  fillets  of  raw  truffles.  Pound  the  truffle 
parings  with  five  ounces  of  fresh  chopped  fat  pork  and  six  ounces  of  very  white  lean  veal  or  pork 
meat,  free  from  sinews,  also  chopped  up  finely,  and  four  ounces  of  raw  lean  ham,  adding  the  liver 
parings,  salt  and  spices.  Infuse  a  piece  of  cinnamon  stick  in  a  little  Madeira  wine,  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  and  mix  it  with  the  forcemeat,  also  six  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385) ;  season  the 
whole  to  perfection.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  medium  No.  3  terrine  with  thin  bards  of  fat 
pork,  lay  on  a  bed  of  the  prepared  forcemeat  and  then  range  in  the  livers,  pressing  them  closely 
together-  mask  over  with  a  thick  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  cover  with  a  thin  bard  of  fat  pork;  set 
on  the  cover  and  place  the  terrine  on  a  small  raised-edge  baking  pan  containing  a  little  hot  water; 
push  it  into  the  oven  to  bake  for  an  hour;  remove  and  lay  it  away  to  cool  with  a  light  weight  on 
top;  when  thoroughly  cold  fill  it  to  the  edge  with  lard  and  butter,  melted  together.  This  terrine 
is  to  be  served  either  whole,  by  suppressing  the  fat,  or  by  unmolding  it  on  a  dish  without  cutting  it 
up  and  merely  removing  the  fat  pork  and  grease,  or  else  in  the  terrine  itself.  Decorate  with 
chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2597).  TERRINE  OF  KERNEL  OF  HAM  (Terrine  de  Noix  de  Jambon). 

Kaise  the  kernel  from  a  fresh  ham;  suppress  the  rind  and  lard  with  large  lardons  (No.  1, 
Fig.  52),  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  parsley.  Put  it  in  a  vessel  with  carrots,  minced 
onions,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123),  salt,  pepper  and  Madeira  wine;  let  macerate  for  forty- 


COLD    SERVICE.  795 

eight  hours  in  a  cool  place,  turning  it  over  frequently.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  terrine 
that  can  stand  the  oven  with  chopped  forcemeat  (No.  68);  lay  the  kernel  in  the  center,  cover 
with  more  forcemeat  and  the  whole  with  bards  of  fat  pork;  put  on  the  lid  and  place  the  terrine  in 
a  deep  baking  tin  containing  water;  push  into  a  slack  oven  for  three  hours;  remove,  place  a  round 
of  wood  fitting  the  inside  of  the  terrine  over  and  a  light  weight  on  top;  when  cold,  remove  this 
round  of  wood  and  cover  the  surface  with  chopped  jelly;  then  serve. 

(2598).  TEEEINE  OF  HARE  (Terrine  de  Lievre). 

Choose  a  fresh-skinned  and  clean  hare,  remove  the  fillets  from  the  back,  the  minion  fillets  and 
the  kidneys,  reserving  these  apart.  Take  the  meat  from  the  shoulders  and  legs  and  chop  it  well; 
mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  boned  turkey  forcemeat  (No.  65),  and  an  equal  quantity  of 
baking  forcemeat  (No.  64);  mix  well.  Pare  the  large  fillets  from  the  hare's  back;  cut  them  up  into 
big  squares  and  put  into  a  vessel  with  the  minion  fillets  and  kidneys  cut  likewise,  adding  as  much 
blanched  fat  pork  cut  the  same,  a  few  raw  truffles  and  a  piece  of  foies-gras;  season  these  meats 
and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brandy  and  Madeira  wine,  then  let  macerate  for  a  few  hours. 
Select  a  proper-sized  cooking  terrine,  cover  the  bottom  and  around  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  and 
fill  it  up  in  layers,  intermingling  each  layer  of  forcemeat  with  a  bed  of  the  squares  prepared  before- 
hand, and  finishing  with  fom^emeat  on  top;  cover  the  whole  with  fat  pork.  Set  the  terrine  on  a 
baking  pan  with  a  little  hot  water  and  let  bake  for  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  in  a  slow  oven; 
after  removing,  put  it  away  in  a  cool  place,  with  a  weight  laid  on  top,  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  at  least,  and  serve  it  only  after  twenty-four  hours  has  elapsed;  remove  the  fat  from  the  top, 
and  garnish  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2599).  TEEEINE  OP  LAEKS  (Terrine  de  Mauviettes). 

Bone  two  or  three  dozen  larks;  season,  cook  a  part  of  the  intestines  with  fat  pork  and  then  pass 
them  through  a  sieve.  Prepare  a  pound  and  a  half  of  chopped  galantine  forcemeat  (No.  66),  place  it 
in  a  vessel  and  mix  in  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385),  chopped  truffles  and 
the  intestine  pulp.  Spread  the  larks  on  the  table  and  lay  in  each  one  a  forcemeat  ball.  Line  a 
terrine  used  for  cooking  and  proceed  to  fill  it  exactly  as  described  for  terrine  of  ducks'  liver  a 
1'Aquitaine  (No.  2596).  Bake  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  let  it  cool,  pressing  it  slightly  half 
an  hour  after  it  leaves  the  oven;  when  cold  garnish  with  jelly. 

(2600).  TEEEINE  DE  NEEAO  (Terrine  de  Nerac). 

Cut  off  the  feet  and  wings  from  a  medium-sized  partridge;  bone  and  season  with  allspice  (No.  168); 
takeout  the  liver  and  carefully  remove  the  gall  from  it,  then  pound  and  mix  it  to  pound  again  with 
half  a  pound  of  chopped  pork  forcemeat  (No.  68).  Cut  up  some  cooked  ham,  some  tongue,  truffles, 
fat  pork,  and  the  minion  fillets  taken  from  the  partridge,  in  quarter-inch  square  pieces;  mix  all  in  with 
the  forcemeat,  and  with  it  fill  the  boned  partridge,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  a  boned  chicken  (No. 
2485a).  Line  a  terrine  of  the  same  capacity  as  the  boned  partridge  (one  that  can  be  placed  in  the 
oven)  with  slices  of  fat  pork;  on  top  of  this  set  a  layer  of  the  pork  forcemeat,  and  then  put  in  the 
partridge  with  the  breast  down  ward;  finish  filling  up  with  truffles  and  more  forcemeat,  and  lay  slices 
of  fat  pork  on  top.  Set  the  cover  on  and  fasten  it  all  around  with  strips  of  paper  dipped  in  a  flour 
and  water  paste;  bake  it  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  and  thickness 
of  the  terrine.  After  removing  and  unfastening  it  put  inside  a  smaller  cover  that  can  easily  enter 
the  top,  to  take  the  place  of  its  own,  and  press  lightly  under  a  weight;  drain  off  all  the  grease  aris- 
ing over  the  inside  cover  which  is  used  for  pressing  it,  and  when  the  contents  are  perfectly  cold 
remove  the  small  cover  and  pour  back  the  grease  previously  removed,  and  after  this  has  cooled  off 
cover  the  whole  with  melted  lard.  Keturn  the  original  cover  to  the  terrine  after  washing  it  well; 
fasten  it  on  again  with  pasted  tin  foil  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  When  wanted  for  use  take 
off  all  the  grease,  unmold,  dress  and  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly,  or  it  may  be  served 
in  its  own  terrine. 

(2601).  TEEEINE  OF  PLOVEES  AND  LAEKS  (Terrine  de  Pluviers  et  Mauviettes). 

Take  off  the  fillets  from  eight  plovers;  remove  their  skin,  lay  them  in  a  vessel  and  season  with 
salt  and  spices,  and  moisten  with  a  little  brandy  and  Madeira.  Detach  and  cut  up  the  leg  meats; 
put  four  ounces  of  fat  pork  in  a  sautoir,  and  when  melted  add  the  intestines  without  the  gizzard 
and  pouch;  fry  all  together  over  a  brisk  fire  with  half  a  pound  of  chicken  livers,  the  cut-up  leg 


796  THE    EPICUREAN. 

meats,  and  some  chopped  shallots  and  mushrooms;  when  this  is  cold  pound  it  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  chopped-up  fresh  fat  pork,  and  press  the  preparation  through  a  sieve.  Cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  a  terrine  with  thin  bards  of  fat  pork;  over  this  a  layer  of  forcemeat;  fill  the  center  with  the 
skinned  plover  fillets;  on  this  lay  a  layer  of  the  prepared  forcemeat;  on  this  some  larks  boned  and 
stuffed  with  game  forcemeat  made  with  a  pound  of  game,  the  same  of  fat  pork,  a  few  truffles  and 
pistachios,  and  small  squares  of  ham;  now  place  another  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  more  fillets,  and  so 
on  until  the  terrine  is  quite  full;  all  these  ingredients  should  be  well  seasoned;  range  on  top  a  bard 
of  the  fat  pork  and  the  cover;  put  it  in  a  low  saucepan  containing  a  little  water;  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  when  the  meats  are  done  press  down  lightly,  and  set  it  aside  to 
cool.  Fill  the  terrine  with  melted  butter  and  lard,  half  of  each,  and  use  only  when  cold. 

(2602).  TERRINE  OP  PORK  LIVER  (Terrine  de  Poles  de  Pore;. 

Procure  two  pounds  of  the  whitest  pork  liver,  three  pounds  of  fresh  fat  perk,  four  ouncea 
of  onion  and  one  ounce  of  shallot,  both  chopped  very  finely  and  separately,  four  ounces  together 
of  salt,  pepper,  fine  spices  (No.  168),  and  a  little  powdered  thyme,  six  ounces  of  flour,  one  ounce  ol 
truffles,  one  ounce  of  pistachios,  and  two  ounces  of  tongue,  these  three  latter  to  be  chopped  sepa- 
rately. Work  the  whole  well  together  to  obtain  a  compact  paste,  then  divide  it  into  three  parts. 
Line  the  inside  of  a  terrine  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  place  in  it  one  of  the  parts,  and  on  it  lay  a 
bed  of  quarter  of  an  inch  squares  of  fat  pork,  then  another  one  of  the  parts  of  forcemeat, 
another  layer  of  fat  pork  squares,  and  on  these  the  third  or  remaining  part.  The  terrine  should 
be  filled  to  one  inch  below  the  edge,  then  covered  with  bards  of  fat  pork;  place  a  bay  leaf  on  top,  and 
set  on  the  cover.  Push  the  terrine  into  a  moderate  oven,  standing  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  when 
cooked  remove  and  lay  a  round  of  wood  on  it  the  size  of  the  inside  of  the  terrine;  place  under  the 
press  so  as  to  press  it  down  lightly,  and  leave  it  thus  to  cool  for  twelve  hours. 


(2603).  TERRINE  OP  SNIPE  (Terrine  de 
Bone  two  snipe,  divide  each  one  in  two  parts  and  lay  them  in  a  dish  with  five  or  six  peeled  and 
cut-up  truffles,  and  as  much  cooked  ham  fat,  or  fat  pork;  season  the  meats  and  truffles  highly  and 
pour  over  a  little  Madeira  wine.  Take  the  meat  from  the  leg  of  a  hare,  cut  it  in  pieces  and  fry  in  a 
saucepan  with  double  its  quantity  of  chicken  or  game  livers  until  vail  done,  then  add  the  birds' 
intestines  and  leave  to  cool;  chop  this  up  with  a  third  as  much  rav/  and  chopped  fresh  pork,  and 
then  season  the  whole;  put  it  in  a  mortar  to  pound  with  the  same  amount  of  fresh  fat  pork  pre- 
viously chopped  and  pounded  with  the  truffle  parings;  add  to  thi.*  forcemeat  a  pinch  of  prepared 
spices  (No.  168).  Five  minutes  later  set  it  in  a  vessel  and  incorporate  with  it  the  Madeira  wine  used 
for  marinating  the  snipe.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  terriue  with  slices  of  unsalted  fat  pork 
and  these  with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  forcemeat;  range  the  pieces  of  snipe,  truffles  and  ham  in 
the  center,  alternated  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat;  the  terrine  should  now  be  quite  full. 
Smooth  the  top  with  a  knife  and  cover  with  slices  of  fat  pork;  put  on  the  lid  and  set  it  in  a  baking 
pan  with  a  glassful  of  hot  water;  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
When  the  water  in  the  pan  evaporates  pour  in  some  more,  and  when  done  take  it  out  and 
leave  to  cool  partly,  then  set  a  light  weight  on  top,  and  when  thoroughly  cold  take  the  contents 
from  the  terrine,  divide  in  two  across,  return  one-half  to  the  terrine,  cut  up  the  remaining  half  into 
oblong  pieces  and  dress  them  again  in  a  circle  in  the  same  terrine.  Garnish  the  center  with  chopped 
jelly. 

(2604).  TERRINE  OP  WILD  RABBITS  (Terrine  de  Lapins  Sauvages). 

Cut  off  the  limbs  of  two  or  three  wild  rabbits  previously  skinned,  cleaned,  and  the  meats  nicely 
wiped;  bone  the  four  limbs  and  the  back,  cut  the  back  fillets  in  pieces,  also  the  meat  from  the  legs, 
and  lard  them  with  shreds  of  raw  ham  and  bits  of  truffles;  lay  them  in  a  vessel  to  season  with  pul- 
verized wild  thyme,  and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  brandy  or  Madeira  wine;  let  macerate  for 
two  or  three  hours,  adding  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385).  With  the  minion  fillets 
and  the  nicest  parings  prepare  a  forcemeat,  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  baking  forcemeat 
(No.  81),  and  to  this  dressing  add  the  marinade  from  the  meats.  Cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  a  cooking  terrine  with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  forcemeat,  then  begin  to  fill  it 
with  the  pieces  of  rabbit  intermingled  with  large  lardons  of  foies-gras  and  truffles,  both  raw,  but 
seasoned,  and  alternate  the  forcemeat  with  layers  of  the  meats;  cover  the  top  with  forcemeat  and 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork  over  all.  Set  the  terrine  into  a  deep  baking  pan  containing  hot  water,  and 
bake  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter  to  one  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven;  after  it  has  been  re- 
moved one  quarter  of  an  hour  set  a  weight  on  top  and  allow  to  cool  off. 


COLD    SERVICE. 


797 


(2605).  TIMBALE  OP  PHEASANTS  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Timbale  de  Faisans  aux  Truffes). 

Remove  the  meat  from  the  breast  of  two  raw  pheasants.  Chop  up  the  fleshy  part  of  the  legs 
with  one  fillet  and  the  carcass  parings,  and  with  it  mix  an  equal  quantity  of  fat  pork,  a  few  raw 
truffles  and  fragments  of  foies-gras;  pound  well  and  pass  through  a  sieve.  Cut  into  large  squares  the 
remaining  breast  meats  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel  with  as  much  cut-up  raw  foies-gras;  season  highly 
and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine;  keep  this  in  a  cool  place  for  two  hours.  Butter 
a  large  dome-shaped  mold,  broader  than  it  is  high;  line  it  with  cold  pie  paste  (No.  144)  and  cover 
with  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  filling  the  empty  space  with  the  contents  of  the  vessel;  cover  the  top 


FIG.  538. 

with  a  thick,  well-rounded  layer  of  the  same,  and  then  lay  several  slices  of  fat  pork  on  all;  close  up 
the  aperture  of  the  mold  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  fastening  it  to  the  edges,  and  in  the  center 
bore  a  small  opening.  Now  lay  the  timbale  on  a  small-sized  baking  sheet  and  let  it  cook  for  about 
an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  slack  oven;  after  it  has  been  removed  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  pour  into 
the  hole  two  or  three  gills  of  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594),  reduced  with  pheasant  fumet  (No.  397) 
and  Madeira  wine,  and  let  it  cool  for  twenty-four  hours  before  unraolding.  When  ready  to  serve 
invert  it  on  the  table,  lift  off  the  mold  and  cut  from  the  bottom  a  slice  about  an  inch  thick,  then 
begin  cutting  the  dome  into  even  slices,  not  too  thick,  from  the  top  to  the  bottom;  restore  these  to 
their  original  shape  on  the  piece  cut  from  the  bottom.  Dress  the  timbale  on  a  wooden  founda- 
tion attached  to  a  dish  and  covered  with  white  paper;  have  small  holes  perforated  at  equal  distances 
around  the  edges  of  this  foundation  and  into  these  stick  a  dozen  small  hatelets,  each  one  being 
garnished  with  two  peeled  truffles,  one  larger  than  the  other.  On  the  summit  of  the  dome  insert 
another  hatelet  garnished  with  large  truffles;  surround  the  foundation  either  with  handsome  jelly 
croutons  (No.  2442),  or  else  with  slices  of  pie  cooked  in  a  cradle  mold. 

(2606).  BEEF  TONGUE  A  LA  ROOHEFORT  (Langue  de  Boeuf  a  la  Rochefort). 
Prepare  and  cook  a  tongue,  as  explained  in  red  beef  tongue,  No.  2608;  after  it  is  cold  cut  away  the 
entire  center  of  the  tongue,  as  in  the  accompanying  design  (Fig.  533);  cut  this  part  into  slices, 
reconstruct  and  glaze  it  nicely  with  a  brush  dipped  in  partly  set  jelly.    Set  it  on  a  plain  or 


FIG.  533. 


carved  rice  foundation;  ornament  the  ends  of  the  tongue  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles,  egg-whites, 
and  pistachio  nuts;  on  the  foundation  place  a  shell  made  of  grease,  filled  with  slices  of  foies-gras,  and 


798  THE    EPICUREAN. 

chopped  jelly  sprinkled  over;  stick  two  garnished  hatelets  in  the  thick  end,  and  at  the  tip  of  the 
tongue  a  crouton  of  jelly  laid  in  tiers  (Fig.  465),  one  on  top  of  the  other.  Garnish  the  sides  with 
glazed  carrot  balls,  and  the  ends  with  chopped  jelly;  surround  the  socle  with  chopped  jelly  and 
croutons  of  jelly  cut  in  squares. 

(2607).  KED  BEEF  TONGUES  AEOADE  (Langues  de  Boeuf  Ecarlate  en  Arcade). 
Prepare  and  cook  the  tongues  in  water,  lay  them  in  a  mold  having  the  shape  of  a  tongue  two 
and  a  quarter  inches  thick,  then  place  them  under  a  weight  to  get  cool ;  pare,  and  cover  them 
with  a  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594)  and  decorate  with  designs  of  egg-white,  truffles  and  pistachio  nuts. 


FIG.  534. 

Mask  the  decoration  with  a  partly  solidified  jelly,  and  arrange  these  tongues  on  a  silver-plated 
support,  as  represented  in  the  accompanying  Fig.  534;  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly  and  a 
border  of  jelly  croutons. 

(2608).  EED  BEEP  TONGUES,  SMOKED  (Langues  de  Boeuf  Ecarlate  Fumees). 

Cutoff  the  windpipes  and  prick  the  tongues  with  the  point  of  a  trussing  needle;  rub  over  with 
pulverized  saltpetre,  mingled  with  as  much  brown  sugar,  and  place  them  in  an  earthen  or  wooden 
vessel  between  layers  of  white  salt,  with  thyme,  bay  leaf,  basil,  juniper  berries  and  cloves. 
Put  a  board  over  with  a  weight  on  top;  turn  them  after  three  days  and  cover  so  that  the  air  cannot 
enter  and  repeat  the  operation  every  three  days  during  the  period  of  twelve.  To  cook,  place  them 
in  a  stock  pot  after  washing  in  several  waters;  cover  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  allow 
them  to  swim,  adding  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  two  carrots  and  two  onions;  boil  slowly 
for  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  until  thoroughly  cooked,  which  can  be  ascertained  by  inserting  the 
point  of  a  trussing  needle  deep  into  them;  remove  from  the  stock  and  wrap  in  a  wet  cloth;  leave  to 
cool,  then  dress  them  in  a  circle  leaning  against  a  crouton  with  the  tips  downward;  garnish  with 
jelly  and  serve. 

(2609).  EED  BEEF  TONGUES  WITH  JELLY  (Langues  de  Bceuf  Ecarlate  a  la  Gele*e), 
Cut  away  the  fat  and  cartilaginous  part  from  six  beef  tongues,  wash  and  wipe  them  well,  then 
prick  them  with  a  larding  needle;  rub  each  tongue  over,  using  half  an  ounce  of  saltpetre  for  each 
one.  Lay  them  in  a  bowl,  covering  them  with  a  layer  of  salt;  set  a  board  over  with  a  weight  on 
top,  and  leave  them  there  for  twelve  hours,  then  range  them  in  an  earthen  vessel  or  wooden  tub. 
Cover  them  with  a  brine  prepared  as  follows:  Have  eight  quarts  of  water  and  one  pound  or  more 
of  salt;  test  the  brine,  to  see  whether  it  be  strong  enough,  by  putting  in  an  egg  or  potato,  and 
if  it  floats  on  the  surface  then  the  brine  is  sufficiently  strong.  Boil  it,  adding  half  a  pound 
of  brown  sugar,  and  let  get  cool  before  pouring  it  over  the  tongues;  leave  them  in  this  pickle  for 


COLD    SERVICE.  799 

twelve  to  fifteen  days,  setting  them  in  a  very  cool  place,  and  laying  a  board  over  with  a  weight  on 
top  so  as  to  keep  them  continually  under  the  brine,  turning  them  over  in  it  every  three  days*  when 
they  are  to  be  used,  place  them  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  set  on  the  fire  to  boil  for  three  or  four 
hours  according  to  their  size;  when  done  plunge  them  into  fresh  water,  remove  their  skins,  press  them 
down  under  a  weight,  trim  them  nicely,  then  cut  out  the  entire  center  of  the  tongue,  leaving  a 
piece  underneath  and  at  both  ends;  cut  this  square  piece  into  thin  slices,  return  them  to  their 
original  position,  then  glaze  the  tongue  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  dress  it  on  a  dish  over  a  layer 
of  bread  spread  with  green  butter  (No.  583),  and  decorate  it  through  a  cornet  with  the  same  butter. 
Garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly,  having  a  border  of  nicely  shaped  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

(2610).  CALVES'  TONGUES  A  LA  MAOEDOINE  (Langues  de  Veau  a  la  Mac^doine). 

Cook  six  calves'  tongues,  salted  as  the  beef  tongue  No.  2609,  in  salted  water  for  eight  days, 
and  unsalted  in  fresh  water  for  six  hours;  when  done  remove  and  lay  them  to  cool  under  a  weight. 
After  suppressing  the  skin,  pare  them  rounded  at  the  thick  end,  and  cut  the  two  surfaces  off 
straight,  then  split  each  one  lengthwise  in  two  or  three,  brush  over  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and 
cover  with  a  little  half-set  jelly  to  give  them  brilliancy.  Besides  this  prepare  a  vegetable  macedoine 
with  Brussels  sprouts,  small  clusters  of  cauliflower,  balls  of  potatoes  and  carrots,  string  beans 
sliced  or  cut  in  lozenges,  asparagus  tops  and  green  peas;  all  of  these  vegetables  should  be  blanched 
separately;  season  the  salad  and  form  it  symmetrically  into  a  pyramid  on  the  middle  of  a  dish. 
Dress  the  halved  tongues  upright  in  a  circle  around  with  their  pointed  ends  upward,  and  surround 
the  whole  with  jelly,  serving  a  tartar  sauce  No.  (631),  or  cold  ravigote  (No.  623)  apart. 

(2611).  BEOOK  TROUT  A  LA  OAREME  (Truites  de  Ruisseau  a  la  Careme). 

Scale,  wash  and  draw  the  fish  without  opening  their  bellies;  wrap  them  up  in  sheets  of  but- 
tered paper  and  cook  them  in  a  white  wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  when  done,  drain,  unwrap 
and  remove  the  skin  carefully.  Lay  them  in  a  deep  dish,  one  beside  the  other,  placing  them  very 
straight;  strain  the  stock  over  and  allow  to  cool  off  thoroughly  in  this,  then  take  them  from  the 
liquor,  wipe  dry,  dress  and  cover  one-half  with  white  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  and  the  other 
half  with  green  ravigote  (No.  623)  mixed  with  jellied  mayonnaise.  Decorate  the  tops  with  egg- 
white,  truffles,  anchovy  fillets,  gherkins  and  pistachios;  surround  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons, 
and  serve  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606)  at  the  same  time. 

(2612).  TROUT  WITH  JELLY,  TARTAR  SAUCE  (Truites  a  la  Gele"e,  Sauce  Tartars). 

Let  the  fish  be  very  fresh  for  it  loses  its  best  qualities  when  kept  from  the  water  or  on  ice  for 
any  length  of  time.  Clean  the  fish  through  the  gills  without  opening  or  scaling  it.  Lay  it 
on  the  belly  side  on  the  fish  grate,  cover  with  cold  and  strained  white  wine  court-bouillon  (No. 
39),  heat  the  liquid  and  skim;  at  the  first  boil  withdraw  it  to  one  side,  so  that  it  quivers 


FIG.  535. 

for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  fish  with  the  grate,  and  let  drain  for  a  couple  of  hours, 
then  slide  it  on  a  wooden  foundation  concealed  by  white  paper  and  fastened  on  a  large  dish; 
support  the  fish  upright,  so  it  will  not  fall,  and  cover  over  with  slightly  reddened  cold 
jelly;  garnish  the  two  ends  with  clusters  of  shrimps  and  surround  the  foundation  with  jelly 
croutons  (No.  2442) ;  fill  up  the  spaces  between  the  fish  with  bunches  of  fresh  parsley  leaves  or 
chopped  jelly;  serve  tartar  sauce  (No.  631)  with  the  fish. 


800 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(2613).  TUBBOT  A  LA  KEMOULADE  (Turbot  a  la  K^moulade), 

Place  some  slices  of  turbot  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38),  in  a  deep  dish;  pour  over  oil, 
vinegar,  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley.  Decorate  a  border  mold  (Fig.  138),  with  fanciful  cuts  of 
egg-white,  truffles,  pistachios  and  red  lobster  meat;  cover  these  with  a  thick  layer  of  jelly  (No. 
103),  and  fill  it  up  with  shrimps  dressed  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  unmold  when  the 
border  becomes  very  firm,  and  fill  the  center  with  a  pad  of  rice,  or  of  veal  and  mutton  fat,  half  of 
each;  lay  the  pieces  of  turbot  on  top,  having  suppressed  all  the  bones  and  skin  therefrom;  cover  the 
fish  with  remoulade  sauce  (No.  624),  mixed  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613),  and  serve  separately 
a  sauce-boat  of  remoulade  sauce. 


(2614).  TURKEY  A  LA  STEVENS-STUITED  (Dinde  Parcie  a  la  Stevens). 

Fry  one  onion  in  two  ounces  of  butter  with  four  ounces  of  fresh  mushrooms  chopped  up; 
season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  fine  pepper,  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  to  let  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  dilute  with  very  thick  and  well- 
reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  strained  through  a  tammy  and  cooled  off.  Put  this  into  the 
mortar  gradually  with  the  same  amount  of  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  and  with  a  spoon 
mix  in  some  truffles  and  red  beef  tongue,  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  and  pistachios. 
Bone  the  breast  of  a  young  turkey,  fill  the  empty  space  with  the  above  dressing,  truss  it  and  wrap 
it  up  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  then  put  it  to  cook  in  an  oval-shaped  saucepan  lined 
with  bards  of  fat  pork,  and  moisten  to  half  its  height  with  a  mirepoix  and  white  wine  stock  (No. 
419);  it  requires  fifteen  minutes  cooking  for  each  pound  of  turkey  when  stuffed.  Half  an  hour 
before  serving  untie  the  turkey  and  let  it  assume  a  fine  color,  then  remove  and  lay  it  on  a  dish  to 
cool  off.  With  the  stock  prepare  a  jelly  and  use  for  making  some  small  aspics  of  foies-gras  (No. 
2412),  molded  in  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  and  garnish  around  with  them,  placing  them  on 
chopped  jelly  and  surround  with  jelly  croutons,  and  stick  on  the  top  three  or  five  hatelets;  trim 
the  drumsticks  with  favor  frills  (No.  10),  then  serve. 

(2615).   TUKKEY  IN  DAUBE  A  LA  VEBNEUIL  (Dinde  en  Daube  a  la  Vernenil), 

After  picking,  singeing  and  drawing  a  large  turkey,  lard  it  with  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52),  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chives  and  pulverized  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Line  a  braziere  (Fig.  134), 
with  slices  of  fat  pork,  raw  lean  ham,  carrots,  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  gill  of  brandy  and  two  split  calf's  feet  or  knuckle  of  veal;  lay  in  the  turkey. 


FIG.  536. 


Boil,  skim,  then  set  the  braziere  in  the  oven  for  three  or  four  hours  until  perfectly  cooked.  Blanch 
and  cook  separately  some  turnip  balls  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  some  short  sticks 
of  carrots  one  inch  long  by  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  When  the  turkey  is  cooked  put  it 
into  an  earthen  or  a  tin  vessel,  strain  the  stock  over  and  when  three-quarters  cooled  remove  the 


COLD    SERVICE.  801 

bones  and  skin  from  the  meat.  Mold  the  daube  in  a  mold  about  one  inch  shorter  and  narrower  than 
the  mold  to  be  decorated,  placing  in  layers  of  turkey,  calf's  feet,  truffles  and  pistachios.  Decorate 
the  larger  mold,  the  shape  of  the  one  in  Fig.  536,  with  the  carrot  sticks  cut  lengthwise  in  two  and  the 
rounded  side  applied  to  the  sides  of  the  mold,  and  the  turnip  balls  also  cut  in  two  and  the  convex 
side  applied;  the  half  lozenges  on  top  to  be  of  turnips  and  the  smaller  lozenges  above  of 
truffles,  below  which  place  a  row  of  small  green  peas.  Coat  the  decoration  and  fill  the  bottom 
with  jelly,  and  when  hardened  unmold  the  smallest  mold  and  place  it  in  the  decorated  one.  Fill 
up  with  cold  liquid  jelly,  let  get  thoroughly  cold  on  ice,  and  when  sufficiently  firm  unmold  on  a 
cold  oval  dish;  garnish  around  with  chopped  jelly  and  triangular  jelly  croutons  dressed  upright.  On 
top  fasten  three  hatelets  and  on  the  first  platform  range  a  symmetrical  border  of  jelly  squares 
all  around. 

(2616).  TUEZEY  OE  GOOSE  IN  DAUBE  (Dindon  ou  Oie  en  Danbe). 

Draw  a  turkey  cock;  singe  and  lard  it  with  large  lardons  (No.  2,  Fig.  52);  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg  and  chives,  then  stuff  it  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89),  into  which 
mix  quarter-inch  squares  of  red  beef  tongue  and  lean  ham.  Place  the  turkey  in  a  braziere  lined 
with  slices  of  fat  pork,  carrots,  minced  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme,  bay  leaf, 
a  clove  of  garlic,  a  gill  of  brandy  and  a  split  knuckle  of  veal.  Boil,  skim  and  simmer  gently 
and  allow  to  braise  for  three  and  a  half  to  four  hours.  Blanch  separately  some  carrots  and  small 
onions,  both  trimmed  into  five-eighths  of  an  inch  balls,  and  when  the  turkey  is  partly  cooked 
remove  it  from  its  stock,  strain  the  liquid,  wash  the  saucepan,  and  return  the  turkey  to  it  with 
its  strained  and  skimmed  stock;  range  around  the  carrots  and  onions  and  finish  cooking  the  vege- 
tables and  turkey  slowly.  When  well  done,  drain,  untruss  and  lay  it  in  an  oval  stone  or  tin  vessel 
with  the  vegetables  around,  pour  the  stock  (which  should  be  sufficiently  consistent  to  form  a  jelly) 
over  and  let  cool  off,  then  unmold  the  turkey  on  a  long  cold  dish;  surround  the  base  with  chopped 
lelly  and  jelly  croutons  (No.  2442). 

A  goose  in  daube  can  be  prepared  the  same  way  as  the  turkey. 

(2617).  YOUNG-  TUEZEY  BEEASTS,  GUSTAVE  DOEE  (Pilots  de  Dindonneau  a  la  Gustave  Dor6). 

Raise  the  breasts  from  two  turkeys;  remove  the  minion  fillets  and  the  skin,  and  saute1  them  in 
butter  and  lemon  juice;  set  them  separately  under  a  weight  to  cool,  then  pare  and  cover  over  twice 
with  white  chaudfroid  (No.  596),  the  same  as  for  chaudfroid  of  turkey  Perigord  (No.  2462). 
Decorate  with  cuts  of  truffles,  and  cover  with  half-set  jelly.  Pare  the  four  minion  fillets,  remove 
the  light  skin,  and  the  sinews,  and  range  them  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  one  beside  the  other, 
shaping  them  like  crescents;  cover  over  with  buttered  paper,  and  poach  in  a  hot  oven  for  a 
few  moments,  then  cool  them  off  and  coat  over  with  a  brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594).  Cut  some 
slices  of  unsmoked  red  beef  tongue  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  these  pare  slices 
the  same  shape  as  the  minion  fillets,  and  cover  them  with  jelly.  Dress  the  turkey  breasts  on  a  cut- 
out rice  support,  and  around  a  pad  of  bread  covered  with  green  butter  (No.  583);  decorate  around 
this  support  with  finely  chopped  jelly,  and  on  it  lay  the  minion  fillets  and  tongue  intercalated,  and 
outside  of  the  jelly  place  some  triangular-shaped  croutons  (No.  2442),  cut  much  longer  than  their 
width.  On  top  of  the  support  have  a  vase  made  of  vegetables,  filled  with  small  stuffed  mush- 
rooms, as  explained  in  No.  2517. 

(2618),  WILD  BOAE'S  BUAD,  DEOOEATED  (Sure  de  Sanglier  De'core'e). 
Cut  off  the  head  of  a  wild  boar  or  wild  pig  at  the  neck,  near  the  shoulders;  singe  and  scrape 
carefully;  when  well  cleaned  bone  it,  beginning  under  the  lower  jaw,  and  when  thoroughly  boned 
rub  it  over  with  four  ounces  of  salt  and  one  of  powdered  saltpetre.  Lay  the  head  in  a  vessel  with 
thyme,  bay  leaf,  basil,  mace,  cloves,  juniper  berries  and  carrots;  leave  it  in  two  days,  rub  it  over 
once  more  and  let  remain  six  days  longer;  drain,  open,  suppress  all  the  aromatics,  remove  the 
greater  part  of  the  meats,  and  cut  these  into  half-inch  squares.  Have  a  pound  of  truffles  in  a  ves- 
sel with  a  pound  of  pork  minion  fillet  cut  in  half-inch  pieces,  the  boar's  tongue  and  a  calf's  tongue, 
both  to  be  pickled  (No.  15),  cooked  and  cooled  under  a  weight,  then  cut  in  three-eighths  inch  squares; 
also  have  a  pound  of  blanched  fat  pork  cut  up  the  same  size,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  green 
pistachios;  season  highly  and  mix  these  ingredients  with  a  forcemeat  prepared  with  two  pounds  of 
lean  pork,  a  pound  of  lean  veal  and  three  pounds  of  fresh  fat  pork,  the  whole  chopped  finely  and 
forced  through  a  sieve.  Fill  the  head  with  this  preparation,  close  and  sew  up  the  aperture,  fill 
the  mouth  with  carrots  so  as  to  keep  it  open,  cut  off  the  ears  and  cook  them  separately  in  stock 


802  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(No.  194a),  keeping  them  firm;  tie  the  head  in  a  cloth  and  boil  it  for  five  hours  over  a  slow  fire; 
set  it  to  cool  for  half  an  hour,  unwrap  it  and  reshape  the  head  as  near  as  possible  by  wrapping 
tightly  around  it  a  linen  band,  beginning  at  the  snout  and  finishing  at  the  base  of  the  head;  press 
lightly;  when  entirely  cool  unwrap.  This  head  may  be  shaped  in  a  specially  made  mold,  then 
lanmolded  and  glazed.  Reconstruct  the  head  with  imitated  eyes  and  fangs,  and  glaze  over  the 
well-pared  ears  with  meat  glaze  and  fasten  on  with  skewers;  lay  it  on  an  oval  stand  made  of  rice, 
in  two  parts,  the  lower  part  one  and  a  half  inches  high  the  top  part  one  inch  high;  on  the  edge  of 
the  lower  one  place  a  wreath  of  oak  leaves;  garnish  the  lower  tier  with  truffles  in  paper  cases  ancj 
the  base  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons,  and  ornament  the  head  with  some  hatelets. 


FIG.  537. 

Head  Cheese. — Salt  a  pig's  head  for  three  days  in  a  light  brine  or  \v  sea  salt;  cook  it  I* 
remoistening  (No.  189),  with  onion,  thyme  and  bay  leaf  added.  After  it  is  done  bone  it  entirely 
and  cut  the  meat  into  half-inch  squares.  Also  cut  a  few  slices  from  the  fatty  cheek  part  and 
with  them  line  a  square  tin  mold.  Put  the  squares  of  meat  in  a  receptacle  sufficiently  large  to 
contain  them,  and  mix  together;  add  four  finely  chopped  shallots,  peppei ,  nutmeg,  a  soupspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  a  glassful  of  good  white  wine  and  a  pint  of  melted  jelly  (No.  103);  mix  all 
together.  Pour  all  of  this  into  the  larded  mold,  place  it  in  the  oven  aivd  let  cook  slowly  for  half 
an  hour.  Remove  and  cover  with  a  board,  naving  a  pound  and  a  half  weight  on  top.  Cut  in 
slices  and  serve  cold. 


(2619),  WOODOOOK  A  LA  VALEEE  (Becasses  a  la  Valere>, 

Roast  six  woodcocks;  let  them  get  cold,  then  raise  the  fillets  from  them  all;  suppress  the  skin 
and  pare  into  the  form  of  half -hearts,  all  the  same  size.  Pound  the  vemainder  of  the  meats  and 
the  insides,  from  which  the  gizzard  and  pouches  have  been  removed  and  to  which  half  as  much 
foies-gras  has  been  added,  the  whole  fried  in  butter.  "With  this  forcemeat  mash  the  fillets  on  the 
side  that  adheres  to  the  breast-bone.  Put  the  broken  bones  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  a  bay  leaf  and  a  minced  shallot;  let  simmer  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  run  it  through 
a  fine  sieve;  add  this  fumet  to  an  espagnole  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  sauce,  then  add  some 
jelly,  cool  on  ice,  stirring  continually,  and  when  the  chaudfroid  is  sufficiently  consistent  cover  the 
woodcock  fillets;  after  it  becomes  quite  cold  cover  with  half-set  jelly  (No.  103),  pare  and  dress  on  a 
dish  in  a  circle  on  a  nicely  carved  rice  foundation,  one  and  a  half  inches  high.  Lay  chopped  jelly 
around  and  garnish  the  center  with  some  salpicon  tartlets  made  of  foundation  paste  (No.  135), 
cooked  white  and  filled  with  a  salpicon  of  game,  red  tongue  and  mushrooms,  mingled  with  a  little 
brown  chaudfroid  (No.  594).  Surround  with  jelly  croutons  of  two  shades  alternated,  brown  and 
white — the  former  made  of  brown  jelly  and  the  latter  of  white. 


COLD    SERVICE.  803 

COOKED  SALADS  (Salades  Cuites), 


(2620).  DRESSINGS  OE  SEASONINGS  TOR  SALADS,  TARRAGON  AND  CHILI  VINEGAR 
(Assaisonnements  pour  Salades,  Vinaigre  a  1'Estragon  et  au  Poivre  de  Chili). 

Rfonoulade  Sauce,  Pimentade  with  Tomatoes,  Tarragon  and  Chili  Vinegars. — The  quan- 
tity of  salad  to  be  seasoned  and  the  necessary  proportions  must  be  taken  into  consideration  when 
using  these  dressings.  When  a  salad  is  served  no  oil  should  ever  remain  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bowl;  the  quantity  of  oil  varies  according  to  the  salad.  It  generally  takes  three  to  five  spoonfuls 
of  oil  for  one  of  vinegar.  This  can  be  varied  according  to  taste.  Americans  do  not  like  the  taste 
of  oil  in  which  the  taste  of  the  olive  is  prominent,  and  therefore  prefer  a  neutral  olive  oil.  "When 
a  salad  is  prepared  away  from  the  dining-room  it  is  better  to  put  the  salt  and  pepper  in  a  bowl, 
dissolve  them  with  the  vinegar,  add  the  oil  and  mix  well;  then  pour  this  over  the  salad,  and  stir 
it  in  a  common  salad  bowl  before  removing  it  to  the  one  intended  for  the  table,  this  being  a  much 
cleaner  method.  There  are  glass  decanters  for  mixing  the  seasonings,  adding  to  them  an  egg- 
yolk  and  a  little  mustard;  shake  this  well,  and  by  so  doing  a  light  mayonnaise  is  obtained  that 
can  be  poured  over  the  salad. 

Another  way  is  to  put  the  salt  and  pepper  into  a  spoon,  add  the  vinegar,  mix  with  a  fork,  pour 
it  over  the  salad  and  afterward  the  oil,  or  else  put  the  salt  and  pepper  into  the  salad,  stir,  then  add 
the  oil,  stir  once  more  and  lastly  pour  in  the  vinegar,  stirring  it  well  again. 

Tarragon  Vinegar. — Fill  a  two-quart  jar  two-thirds  full  with  layers  of  tarragon  leaves,  shallots 
and  onions;  pour  over  some  very  strong  vinegar  and  use  it  two  months  later,  filtering  it  before 
doing  so. 

Chili  Pepper  Vinegar. — Put  into  a  quart  jar  half  its  height  of  Chili  peppers,  cover  with  strong 
wine  vinegar,  and  three  months  later  it  can  be  used,  either  with  the  peppers  or  filtered. 

(2621).  ASPARAGUS  SALAD  (Salade  d'Asperges). 

Cut  the  tender  parts  of  asparagus  into  pieces  of  equal  length  and  tie  them  in  bunches,  then 
cook  them  in  salted  water  and  leave  them  to  get  cold.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  mix  them  in 
a  bowl  with  a  third  of  their  quantity  of  pared  crawfish  tails;  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Eub 
through  a  sieve  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  dilute  this  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  pour  over 
this  sauce  the  asparagus  and  crawfish,  then  arrange  the  salad  symmetrically  in  a  salad  bowl 
and  add  the  seasoning  to  it. 

(2622),  BAGRATION  SALAD  (Salade  a  la  Bagration). 

Have  some  very  white  lettuce  leaves,  some  anchovies,  marinated  tunny  fish,  stoned  olives, 
beetroot  cut  small,  minced  gherkins  and  escalops  of  lobster.  Season  the  lettuce  leaves  and  lay 
them  at  the  bottom  of  a  bowl;  also  season  the  other  ingredients  with  a  little  mayonnaise  (No.  606), 
lay  them  on  top  of  the  lettuce,  and  dredge  over  and  around  a  border  of  chopped  truffles  to 
decorate.  Place  on  top  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs,  in  the  center  a  pretty  lettuce  heart,  and  around 
this  some  chervil,  tarragon,  water  cress,  parsley,  burnet  and  chives,  all  chopped  up  very  fine  and 
divided  into  six  parts,  arranging  them  tastefully  around  the  lettuce  heart. 

(2623),  BEEF  SALAD  WITH  TOMATOES  (Salade  de  Bceuf  aux  Tomates). 

Scallop  or  trim  in  slices  some  cold  boiled  or  braised  beef,  pare  the  pieces  round-shaped, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  also  very  finely  cut-up  chervil  and  chives;  lay  all  on 
a  plate  or  *alad  bowl,  giving  it  a  dome-shape,  and  garnish  around  the  salad  with  peeled  and  quar- 
tered tomatoes. 

(2624).  CAPON  SALAD  A  LA  MORTIMER  (Salade  de  Chapon  \  la  Mortimer). 
Have  a  cold  roast  capon,  cut  off  the  thighs  and  the  breasts;  suppress  all  the  skin,  fat  and 
bones.  Divide  the  meat  into  slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  these  into  round 
pieces  an  inch  in  diameter;  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and 
mustard.  Now  put  into  a  salad  bowl  half  a  pound  of  salted  cucumbers,  half  a  pound  of  potatoes, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  minced  red  radishes,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  celery  or  celery  knob,  all  being 
minced  up  very  fine;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  chopped  chervil  and  tarragon,  and  mix 


804  THE    EPICUREAN. 

thoroughly.  Cut  into  eight  pieces  sufficient  artichoke  bottoms  to  form  a  border,  dip  the  tips  of 
each  piece  into  finely  chopped  parsley.  Prepare  rounds  of  truffles  one  inch  in  diameter  by  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  arrange  the  vegetables  at  the  bottom  of  a  a  cold  dish,  lay  the  capon 
on  top,  cover  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  and  surround  the  whole  with  the  artichoke 
bottoms;  inside  this  border  lay  symmetrically  the  slices  of  truffles,  and  inside  of  these 
slices  of  beetroot  cut  smaller  than  the  truffles,  and  on  top  of  the  beets  smaller  bits  of  gherkin; 
finish  the  center  with  a  small  cluster  of  truffles.  Send  this  salad  to  the  table  to  show  the  guests 
before  removing  it  to  stir  and  serve. 


(2625).  CHICKEN  SALAD,  AMERICAN  STYLE-CHICKEN  MAYONNAISE  (Salads  de  Poulet  a 

rAmericame— Mayonnaise  de  Poulet). 

Cook  a  four-pound  chicken  in  some  stock  (No.  194a);  the  time  allowed  for  this  varies  considerably, 
according  to  the  age  of  the  chicken,  but  the  usual  length  of  time  is  about  two  hours.  When  the 
chicken  is  done  put  it  into  a  vessel,  pour  its  own  broth  over,  and  let  it  cool  therein;  remove  it,  and 
begin  by  lifting  off  all  the  skin  and  white  parts  from  the  breasts;  cut  the  meat  into  dice  from  five 
to  six-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar. 
Chicken  salad  may  be  prepared  either  with  lettuce  or  celery,  the  latter  being  generally  pre- 
ferred. Choose  fine  white  celery,  wash  it  well,  drain  and  cut  it  across  in  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick  pieces  or  else  in  Julienne;  dry  them  in  a  cloth  to  absorb  all  the  water  remaining  in  them. 
fat  at  the  bottom  of  a  salad  bowl  intended  for  the  table  some  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar; 
mustard  can  be  added  if  desired;  mix  the  seasoning  in  with  the  celery.  For  lettuce  prepare  an 
ordinary  lettuce  salad.  Lay  the  pieces  of  chicken  on  top,  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  layer  of 
mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606);  decorate  the  surface  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs,  anchovy  fillets, 
olives,  capers  and  beets;  place  some  lettuce  leaves  around,  and  a  fine  lettuce  heart  in  the  center. 

Chicken  Mayonnaise. — Cut  into  five  pieces  a  roasted  chicken  weighing  two  pounds  and  a  half, 
remove  the  skin  and  pare  nicely.  Season  the  chicken  the  same  as  for  No.  2625;  two  hours  later 
toss  it  in  the  vessel  with  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613)  and  dress  it  pyramidically  without  any  green 
salad;  cover  with  jelly  mayonnaise,  and  garnish  around  with  halved  eggs,  olives,  capers,  anchovies, 
beetroots  and  chopped  jelly. 


(2626).  MIGNON  SALAD  (Salade  Mignonne). 

Pare  four  heads  of  endive  or  escarole  that  are  not  too  large,  suppress  the  outer  leaves,  and  wipe 
ihe  others  well  without  washing  them;  cut  either  of  these  salads  across  in  two  parts,  put  the  upper 
part  of  the  leaves  in  a  bowl,  cut  up  the  other  half  into  large  Juliennes,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  some  fine  oil.  Cut  in  medium  Julienne  four  peeled  truffles  cooked  in  wine,  season  them 
also  with  salt  and  oil,  cut  up  the  same  as  the  truffles  two  breasts  of  chicken  cooked  in  butter  and 
lemon  juice  without  attaining  a  color;  let  them  get  cold  and  lay  them  on  a  plate.  Shell  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  rub  the  yolks  through  a  sieve  and  set  this  in  a  bowl,  diluting  with  some  mayonnaise 
(No.  606),  a  good  spoonful  of  mustard  and  a  dash  of  vinegar;  add  one  after  the  other,  first  the 
truffles,  then  the  endives,  and  lastly  the  chicken  breasts,  all  previously  drained  of  their  seasoning. 
Dress  the  salad  in  a  salad  bowl,  and  decorate  the  top  with  truffles,  beetroot,  gherkins  and  lobster 
coral. 

(2627).  CHICKEN  SALAD  WITH  VEGETABLES  (Salade  de  Poulet  auz  Legumes). 

Cut  up  a  large  roast  chicken  into  eight  pieces,  four  from  the  breasts  and  four  from  the  legs, 
suppressing  the  pinions  and  carcass;  remove  the  breast  bone  and  the  second  joint  bones,  then  cut 
the  meats  and  the  fillets  each  in  two  or  three  pieces,  taking  off  the  skin;  put  them  in  a  vessel  to 
season  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar.  Prepare  a  macedoine  salad  (No.  2650),  cut  in  small  dice;  for 
instance,  carrots  and  turnips  blanched  and  cooked  in  stock  (No.  194a),  also  green  peas  and  string 
beans  boiled  in  salted  water.  After  all  these  vegetables  have  been  cooked  and  drained  lay  them  in 
a  bowl  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar;  mix  in  some  cut-up  gherkins  and  beets,  and 
let  macerate  for  one  hour.  Drain  off  the  seasonings  and  finish  with  mayonnaise,  slightly  thickened 
with  jelly  (No.  606).  Dress  the  chicken  and  the  vegetables  in  a  dome-shape  on  a  cold  dish;  cover 


COLD    SKRV1CE.  805 

this  with  a  layer  of  the  same  mayonnaise,  and  decorate  near  the  top  with  a  row  of  sliced  truffles; 
divide  the  dome  between  the  truffles  and  the  bottom  into  panels  by  means  of  round  slices  of 


FIG.  538. 

gherkins.     Surround  the  base  of  the  dome  with  slices  of  beets  and  potatoes,  overlapping.    Garnish 
the  top  with  string  beans. 

(2628).  OEAB  SALAD  (Salade  de  Orabes). 

Cook  some  crabs  as  explained  in  bisque  of  crabs  (No.  198);  pick  the  meat  from  the  shells  and 
put  it  on  the  ice;  serve  when  very  cold,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar;  sprinkle  over 
the  whole  some  finely  cut-up  chives  aud  chervil,  also  some  chopped  lobster  or  crab  coral. 

(2629).  CRAWFISH  SALAD  A  LA  MAINTENON  (Salade  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  Maintenon). 
In  order  to  dress  this  salad  in  an  elegant  manner,  and  with  a  required  solidity,  it  is  better  to 
fasten  a  wooden  bottom  to  the  dish,  covering  it  with  white  paper  and  having  on  the  upper  outer 
edge  a  small  wooden  or  cardboard  ledge,  and  in  the  center  a  thin  support  equally  covered  with 
white  paper.  Detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies  of  six  or  eight  dozen  large,  cooked  crawfish;  sup- 
press the  tail  shells  and  claws.  Pare  the  meat  from  the  tails,  put  it  into  a  bowl,  and  season  with 
salt,  oil  and  vinegar;  empty  the  crawfish  bodies,  and  rub  the  insides  through  a  sieve.  Stuff  about 
fifteen  of  these  bodies,  when  well  cleaned,  with  a  salpicon  composed  of  poached  oysters  and  cooked 
truffles;  mix  in  with  it  the  meats  from  the  claws,  and  the  parings  from  the  tails,  and  stir  in  a  good 


FIG.  539. 

white  chaudfroid  sauce  (No.  596).  Let  the  preparation  become  firm  by  keeping  the  stuffed  bodies 
for  half  an  hour  in  the  refrigerator.  Cut  in  small  quarter-inch  squares  some  cooked  and  cold  fillets 
of  sole  and  salmon,  also  some  anchovy  and  herring  fillets,  some  marinated  tunny-fish,  poached  eggs, 
potatoes  and  salt  cucumbers;  put  this  salpicon  into  a  bowl,  and  season  it  with  salt,  oil,  vinegar  and 
mustard,  then  let  macerate  for  one  hour.  Drain  off  the  seasoning,  and  add  to  it  a  mayonnaise 
with  jelly  (No.  618).  Dress  it  dome-shaped  on  the  wood  fastened  to  the  dish,  and  let  it  get  firm  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  the  ice-box;  remove  the  dish  from  the  ice,  and  cover  the  dome  with  a  layer 
of  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613).  Stick  in  the  crawfish  tails  one  by  one,  with  the  point  of  a  larding 
needle  so  that  they  lay  symmetrically  against  the  dome  in  two  graduated  rows;  cover  them  at  once 
with  half-set  jelly,  and  garnish  the  hollow  of  the  second  or  top  row  with  a  bunch  of  green  leaves  or 
a  bunch  of  chopped  jelly.  Send  a  sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  (No.  606)  to  the  table  at  the  same  time. 

(2630).  CRAWFISH  SALAD  WITH  JELLY  (Salade  d'Ecrevisses  a  la  GelSe). 

Detach  the  tails  from  the  bodies  of  several  dozen  cooked  crawfish;  suppress  the  shells  from  the 

tails  and  largest  legs;  pare  the  meats,  season,  and  keep  them  covered.     Prepare  a  macedoine  salad 

(No.  2650),  cut  into  small  dice,  add  to  it  the  legs  and  parings  of  shrimps,  also  cut  in  dice;  season 

with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  let  marinate  for  one  hour.     Select  a  plain  border  mold  with  a  nar- 


806  TFLE    EPICUREAN. 

row  cylinder,  imbed  it  in  broken  ice,  and  decorate  its  sides  with  eggs  cut  in  two,  alternated  with 
some  small  vegetable  balls  dipped  in  half-set  jelly;  fill  up  the  empty  space  in  the  mold  gradually  with 
some  partly  cold  jelly  (No.  103).  Drain  the  salad  on  a  sieve,  lay  it  back  into  the  bowl  and  mix  in  with 
it  a  jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  stir  it  on  ice  for  a  few  minutes.  Unmold  the  border  on  a  cold  dish; 
place  into  the  cylindrical  space  a  wooden  foundation  of  exactly  the  same  diameter,  having  on  the 


FIG.  540. 

center  a  light  upright  support,  both  being  covered  with  white  paper;  lay  the  salad  around  this 
support,  giving  it  a  pyramidical  shape,  smooth  the  surfaces,  and  cover  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  thick 
jellied  mayonnaise  (No.  613);  keep  for  two  minutes  on  ice.  Stick  in  the  crawfish  tails  one  by  one, 
using  a  larding  needle  for  the  purpose,  first  dipping  them  in  half-set  jelly,  then  fasten  them  to  the 
salad  in  three  graduated  rows,  each  one  laying  in  a  different  direction,  and  forming  a  pyramid. 
As  soon  as  each  row  is  finished  coat  it  over  with  some  half -set  jelly  to  consolidate  it;  in  the  hollow 
of  the  third  or  top  row  lay  a  pretty  lettuce  heart,  and  serve  a  sauce-boat  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 
606)  at  the  same  time  as  the  salad. 

(2631).  riSH  SALADS  (Salades  de  Poissons). 

These  consist  principally  of  perch,  trout,  turbot  and  salmon.  For  these  salads  the  fish 
must  be  boiled  or  cooked  in  a  court-bouillon  (No.  38)  beforehand,  so  that  they  are  cold  when  needed 
for  use.  They  can  also  be  made  of  sauted  fillets  of  fish;  in  either  case  the  skin  and  bones  must 
first  be  removed.  Put  the  fish  into  a  bowl  and  season  it  with  salt,  oil  and  vinegar;  it  is  generally 
arranged  shaped  as  a  pyramid  on  a  cold  dish,  alternating  and  upholding  the  pieces  of  fish  with  a 
mixed  cooked  vegetable  salad  (No.  2650)  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice  or  balls  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter.  When  the  salad  is  dressed,  smooth  the  surface,  and  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  mayonnaise 
with  jelly  (No.  613),  then  let  it  get  firm  for  half  an  hour  in  a  cold  place,  decorating  it  afterward  with 
pieces  of  pickled  cucumber  and  truffles.  Surround  the  base  with  halved  hard-boiled  eggs,  standing 
upright  one  against  the  other,  after  cutting  off  a  quarter  of  their  lengthen  the  round  end,  so  as  to 
enable  them  to  stand  erect  against  the  salad.  A  row  of  small  lettuce  hearts  cut  in  four,  and 
simply  salted,  may  be  arranged  above  the  eggs,  and  also  fasten  a  lozenged  cut  of  very  red  and  thin 
beetroot  over  the  cut  end  of  the  egg,  on  top  of  the  yolks  (Fig.  492).  Instead  of  an  egg  border,  one  of 
jelly  may  be  substituted,  decorated  with  shrimp  tails,  hard-boiled  eggs,  crawfish  and  stoned  olives. 

(2632).  FROG  SALAD  (Salade  de  Grenouilles), 

Have  one  pound  of  very  white  medium-sized  frogs,  cooked  in  a  little  mushroom  broth,  and 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  butter  and  lemon  juice;  when  cold  cut  the  meats  into  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  squares,  and  put  them  in  a  vessel  with  cooked  artichoke  bottoms,  potatoes  and  hard-boiled 
eggs,  all  cut  the  same  size  as  the  frogs;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  macerate 
for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Drain  the  salad  on  a  sieve,  return  it  to  the  vessel,  and  dress  it  with  a 
consistent  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  finished  with  mustard  and  chopped  tarragon;  arrange  it  in  a  salad 
bowl,  smoothing  the  top  to  a  dome.  Split  some  lobster  claw  meat  in  two,  season  and  form  into  a 
rosette  in  the  center  of  the  salad;  decorate  around  with  truffles  and  gherkins,  having  a  lettuce  heart 
exactly  in  the  middle. 

(2633).  HERRING  SALAD  WITH  POTATOES  (Salade  de  Harengs  et  Pommes  de  Terre). 

"Wash  four  salted  herrings,  soak  them  in  milk  for  several  hours,  then  drain  and  dry  them. 
Kemove  the  fillets  and  cut  them  into  half-inch  squares;  cut  into  three-eighths  inch  squares  eight 
ounces  of  cooked  potatoes;  add  a  four-ounce  apple,  peeled  and  cored,  then  minced  very  finely,  half 


COLD    SERVICE.  807 

a  pound  of  roasted  veal  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  a  four-ounce  pickled  beetroot  cut  in  three- 
sixteenths  inch  squares,  and  four  ounces  of  salt  cucumbers  cut  equally  into  quarter-inch  squares. 
Put  into  a  salad  bowl  the  potatoes,  herrings,  apples  and  veal;  season  with  oil  and  vinegar,  a  little 
hot  water  or  broth  (No.  194a),  salt,  pepper,  mustard  and  some  chopped  chives,  all  well  mixed; 
smooth  the  surface  with  a  knife  and  decorate  it  with  anchovy  fillets,  pickled  cucumbers,  beets, 
capers,  pickled  cherries  and  the  yolks  and  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  up  very  fine,  also 
some  chopped  parsley. 

(2634).  IMPERIAL  SALAD  (Salade  ImpSriale). 

Cut  off  some  green  asparagus  tops  one  inch  in  length;  cook  them  in  salted  water  in  an  untin- 
ned  copper  basin;  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  Cut 
some  cooked  truffles  into  large  Julienne  the  same  length  as  the  asparagus,  season  them  the  same, 
and  half  an  hour  later  lay  them  on  top  of  a  sieve  to  drain  well,  then  add  them  to  the  asparagus 
and  mingle  them  both  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  having  a  little  mustard  added. 

(2635).  ITALIAN  SALAD  (Salade  Italienne). 

Cook  in  salted  water  one  pint  of  green  peas,  half  a  pint  of  string  beans,  half  a  pint  of  carrots 
and  as  much  turnips,  both  of  these  pushed  through  a  tin  tube;  they  should  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  and  three  eighths  of  an  inch  long.  First  blanch  the  carrots  and  turnips,  then  cook  them 
in  broth  (No.  194a)  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  when  done  drain  and  leave  them  to  get  cool.  Put  into 
a  salad  bowl  the  carrots,  green  peas,  some  green  peppers,  string  beans,  turnips  and  finely  cut-up 
chervil,  tarragon,  chives  and  finely  chopped  parsley;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  oil, 
mixed  well  together.  Cut  some  beets  and  potatoes  in  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  remove 
some  rounds  from  these  with  a  vegetable  cutter  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  then  season ; 
set  the  beetroots  alternated  with  the  potatoes  around  the  base;  near  the  top  place  a  row  of  round 
slices  of  pickles  half  an  inch  in  diameter;  divide  the  height  between  the  potatoes  and  the  pickles 
with  fillets  of  anchovies  into  six  panels;  in  the  center  of  these  place  a  round  slice  of  mortadelle  and 
on  the  top  lay  some  small  channeled  mushrooms  (No.  118). 

(2636).  JAPANESE  SALAD  (Salade  Japonaise). 

Cook  some  peeled  potatoes  in  broth  (No.  194a),  cut  two  pounds  of  them  in  slices  while  still  warm, 
and  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  olive  oil,  vinegar,  also  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  some  chervil, 
chives,  tarragon,  shallot,  parsley  and  burnet,  all  finely  and  separately  chopped  up.  Cook  some 
mussels  with  minced  onions,  branches  of  celery,  mignonette,  but  no  salt,  adding  a  little  vinegar 
and  water;  set  them  on  a  good  fire,  toss  them  frequently,  and  when  done  so  that  they  open  take 
them  from  the  shells  and  cut  away  their  foot  or  black  appendage.  Put  the  potatoes  into  a  bowl  with 
one  pound  of  the  mussels,  or  else  very  small  clams  may  be  substituted,  stir  them  up  lightly,  and 
dress  in  a  salad  bowl,  covering  the  surface  with  slices  of  truffles  cooked  in  champagne.  Set  the 
salad  in  a  cold  place  for  one  hour,  and  when  serving  it  mix  in  the  truffles. 

(2637).  LAMB  SALAD  A  LA  SOMEE  (Salade  d'Agneau  a  la  Somer). 

Cut  slices  of  braised  lamb  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  arrange  on  a  deep  dish  in  straight 
rows  over  a  bed  of  sliced  cooked  potatoes.  Decorate  the  whole  with  some  anchovy  and  bloater 
fillets,  slices  of  pickled  gherkins,  capers,  small  pickled  onions,  chopped  chervil  and  chives,  salt, 
pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard.  Garnish  the  dish  with  hard-boiled  eggs  (Fig.  492)  and  lozenge- 
shaped  pieces  of  beetroot,  also  a  few  tarragon  leaves.  Serve  without  stirring,  so  as  to  avoid  break- 
ing the  slices  of  meat. 

(2638).  LOBSTER  OR  SPINY  LOBSTER  SALAD,  AMERICAN  STYLE  (Salade  de  Homard  on  de 

Langouste  k  1'Ame'ricaine). 

Cook  two  medium  lobsters  weighing  three  pounds  each,  let  get  cold,  then  break  the  shells  and 
remove  the  meat  from  the  tails  and  claws,  cutting  it  into  five-eighth  inch  dice;  season  all  with  salt, 
pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard,  and  let  macerate  for  half  an  hour.  Drain,  and  range  them  in  a 
salad  bowl  over  a  bed  of  white  and  well-seasoned  lettuce  leaves;  dress  it  dome-shaped,  and  cover 
the  surface  with  a  firm  and  consistent  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  decorate  with  the  lobster  claws, 
hard-boiled  eggs,  olives,  capers,  beets  and  pickled  cucumbers,  laying  on  the  extreme  top  a  pretty 
white  lettuce  head. 


808  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2639).  MAZARIN  SALAD  (Salade  a  la  Mazarin). 

Boil  in  salted  water  two  heads  of  celery  knobs;  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  them  up  into  fine 
slices,  and  with  an  inch  diameter  column  tube  (Fig.  168)  remove  all  that  it  is  possible  to  obtain,  then 
range  the  pieces  in  a  salad  bowl.  Cut  the  white  ends  of  two  celery  stalks  into  pieces  one  and  a  half 
inches  long,  wash  them  well,  and  split  them  finely  lengthwise;  lay  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an 
hour.  Drain  them  off,  and  add  to  them  the  celery  knob  in  the  salad  bowl,  also  eight  ounces  of 
cooked  truffles  cut  into  pieces  the  same  size  as  the  knobs.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vine- 
gar, and  mix  well  by  tossing  them  in  the  bowl  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  break  the  truffles.  Pound 
four  hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  add  to  them  a  tablespoonful  of  mustard, 
half  a  pint  of  oil  and  a  little  vinegar;  mix  this  in  with  the  celery  and  truffles;  range  it  in  the 
bowl  for  the  table,  and  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  chervil,  chives  and  tarragon. 

(2640).  MIKABEAU  SALAD  (Salade  a  la  Mirabeau). 

Have  some  shrimp  tails,  blanched  oysters,  truffles  cooked  in  white  wine,  and  potatoes  baked  in 
their  skins,  and  cut  into  bits  while  hot,  also  the  truffles.  Season  each  article  separately  with  salt, 
pepper,  oil  and  vinegar;  macerate  them  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  and  mix  them 
together  in  a  bowl,  and  thicken  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  and  a  little  tarragon 
mustard.  Dress  the  salad  in  a  salad  bowl,  smooth  the  surface,  and  decorate  the  top  with  some 
shrimp  tails  and  truffles  kept  aside  for  this  purpose. 

(2641).  NORWEGIAN  SALAD  (Salade  a  la  Norvegienne). 

For  this  salad  have  one  pound  of  salted  anchovies  (sardels),  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  two 
hours,  and  then  wipe  them  with  a  cloth  to  remove  the  white  skin  covering  them;  cut  off  the  fillets, 
pare  the  ends  either  on  one  side  or  the  other,  and  split  them  across  in  two.  (Herrings  may  be  used 
instead  of  anchovies.)  Cut  into  quarter-inch  squares  some  boiled  potatoes,  boiled  celery  root, 
boiled  and  pickled  beetroot,  raw  russet  apples,  and  roasted  tenderloin  of  beef,  having  half  a  pound 
of  each  kind,  also  half  a  pound  of  minced  cabbage  blanched  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  drained 
and  cooled;  put  all  these  into  a  bowl,  season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  mix 
together  thoroughly.  Range  the  pieces  in  a  salad  bowl,  garnish  the  edge  and  inside  of  the 
bowl  with  a  row  of  well-drained  pickled  oysters,  about  three  dozen  in  all,  and  cover  with  a  jellied 
mayonnaise  (No.  613);  inside  of  this  row  of  oysters  make  another  one  of  olives  stuffed  with  anchovy 
butter  (No.  569);  divide  the  surface  in  quarters,  and  on  one  quarter  lay  chopped  hard-boiled  egg-white, 
on  the  next  quarter  some  finely  chopped  chervil  and  chives,  the  third  quarter  filled  with 
hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  and  the  last  quarter  with  chopped  beetroot.  Decorate  the  oysters 
with  slightly  blanched  tarragon  leaves  dipped  in  jelly,  and  lay  between  each  olive  a  thin  slice  of 
pickled  cucumber,  and  stick  in  the  center  a  finely  pared  bunch  of  white  celery,  previously  laid  in 
cold  water  to  curl  nicely. 

(2642).  OYSTER  SALAD  (Salade  d'Huitres). 

Half -fill  a  salad  bowl  with  white  and  finely  cut  lettuce  leaves;  place  on  top  some  pickled 
oysters  cut  in  two  or  three  pieces,  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606).  Decorate 
the  top  with  lobster  coral,  beetroot,  pickled  cucumbers,  capers,  hard-boiled  eggs  and  small  pickled 
oyster  crabs,  or  else  use  young  pepper  grass,  two  inches  long,  and  well  washed.  (This  cress 
can  be  sown  in  pots  and  will  grow  during  the  whole  season;  the  smaller  the  plant  the  better  and 
stronger  is  the  taste.) 

(2643).  SALMON  SALAD  (Salade  de  Saumon). 

Cook  some  slices  of  salmon;  when  cold  separate  the  meat  in  flakes.  Mince  some  celery  very 
fine,  place  it  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the  salmon  over  it;  season  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper, 
mixed  in  another  vessel  and  thrown  over  it.  Pour  over  some  ravigote  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  612), 
decorate  the  top  with  tarragon  leaves,  lobster  coral,  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs  and  fanciful  cut 
of  truffles. 

(2644).  PARISIAN  SALAD  (Salade  Parisienne). 

Cut  in  quarter-inch  squares  some  artichoke  bottoms,  beetroots  and  celeriac,  boiled  in 
water,  and  some  cooked  potatoes.  Lay  these  vegetables  in  a  bowl  with  a  sliced,  salted  and  pickled 
cucumber;  add  some  marinated  tunny-fish,  season  and  pour  over  some  good  sweet  oil.  Pass 


COLD    SERVICE.  809 

through  a  sieve  six  cooked  egg-yolks,  beat  them  with  a  spoonful  of  olive  oil,  a  tablespoonful  of 
mustard  and  tarragon  vinegar.  Dress  the  vegetables,  cover  them  with  this  sauce,  and  decorate  the 
top  with  anchovies,  olives,  truffles,  shrimp  tails  and  a  few  fanciful  cuts  of  red  beef  tongue. 

(2645).  RUSSIAN  SALAD  (Salade  Kusse). 

Lay  in  a  salad  bowl  two  ounces  of  celeriac  cut  in  fine  Julienne,  four  ounces  of  boiled  and 
cold  potatoes,  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  four  ounces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  each  one  divided  into 
sixteen  pieces,  four  ounces  of  well-pared  roast  sirloin  of  beef,  cut  in  quarter- inch  squares,  four 
ounces  of  string-beans  cut  lozenge-shaped,  two  ounces  each  of  chicken,  ham  and  tongue  cut  into 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares:  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar.  Cover  the  whole 
with  a  highly  seasoned  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  in  which  some  mustard  is  mixed,  and  garnish 
all  around  the  outer  edge  with  cucumbers  and  gherkins  cut  in  fine  slices,  alternating  them,  and 
having  one  overlapping  the  other,  then  toward  the  center  decorate  with  another  row  of  sliced 
truffles,  inside  of  these  a  row  of  beetroot,  inside  a  row  of  anchovies  and  capers,  and  in  the  center 
lay  a  fine  lettuce  heart.  There  may  be  arranged  outside  of  the  cucumbers,  and  upright  against  the 
salad  bowl,  a  row  of  thin  slices  of  sausage. 

(2646).  RUSSIAN  SALAD  FOR  LENTEN  DINNERS  (Salade  Russe  au  Maigre). 

Have  some  small  quarter-inch  carrot  balls,  small  sticks  of  turnips,  both  blanched  and  cookec1 
separately  in  water  with  some  butter,  salt  and  sugar,  green  peas  and  lozenge-shaped  string  beans, 
both  cooked  in  salted  water.  Lay  these  vegetables  in  a  salad  bowl  in  four  distinct  sections,  cover 
them  over  with  a  mayonnaise  (No.  606),  highly  seasoned,  and  set  on  top  four  groups,  one  composed 
of  smoked  salmon,  one  of  fillets  of  sole,  one  of  salt  herring,  and  one  of  egg-white,  all  cut  into 
quarter-inch  dice.  Decorate  with  fillets  of  anchovies,  sliced  pickled  cucumbers,  capers,  olives, 
shrimps,  beetroots  and  truffles,  and  in  the  middle  set  a  fine  lettuce  heart. 

(2647).  SHRIMP  SALAD  (Salade  de  Orevettes), 

Skin  the  shrimps,  already  cooked  in  unsalted  water,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vine- 
gar, and  serve  them  in  a  salad  bowl  on  top  of  lettuce  leaves,  and  sprinkle  over  some  chopped 
parsley;  lay  a  lettuce  head  on  top,  or,  if  preferred,  when  the  shrimps  are  dressed,  cover  them  with 
a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  and  instead  of  laying  them  in  the  salad  bowl  they  may  be  set  inside 
a  border  made  as  follows:  Coat  a  border  mold  (Fig.  470)  with  some  clear  jelly  (No.  103),  decorate 
it  through  a  cornet  with  lobster  butter  and  Montpellier  butter  (No.  580),  then  fill  it  up  with  whipped 
jelly.  Unmold  and  surround  it  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  garnish  the  inside  of  the 
border  with  some  seasoned  lettuce;  on  top  of  this  lay  the  seasoned  shrimps  in  a  pyramid,  and 
sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  over  them;  set  on  the  summit  a  lettuce  heart,  and  serve  a 
mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606)  separately. 


COOKED  VEGETABLE  SALADS  (Salades  de  Legumes  Cults), 


(2648).  OARDOON  OR  CELERY  SALAD  (Salade  de  Gardens  ou  de  Celeri), 
Have  one  pound  ot  cardoons,  remove  the  stringy  outside  coat,  and  cut  them  into  inch' 
long  pieces,  then  cook  them  the  same  as  cardoons  with  half-glaze  (No.  2710).  When  done, 
drain  and  fry  them  in  a  pan  with  some  oil,  adding  one  clove  of  garlic,  salt  and  sweet  Spanish 
peppers,  and  halt  a  gill  of  vinegar.  Let  boil  up  only  once,  then  lay  the  cardoons  in  a  salad  bowl, 
pour  the  liquid  over,  stir  well  and  serve. 

(2649).  CAULIFLOWER,  MAYONNAISE  SALAD  (Salade  de  Ohoux-fleurs,  Mayonnaise). 

Lay  some  fine,  white,  cooked,  cold  and  seasoned  cauliflower  in  a  spherical-shaped  mold;  un- 
mold  it  over  a  salad  bowl,  and  cover  it  entirely  with  a  highly  seasoned  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 
Garnish  it  around  with  slices  of  pickled  beetroot  and  dredge  over  some  fine  herbs  and  capers. 


810  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2650).  MACEDOINE  SALAD    (Salade  Maofidoine). 

Have  four  ounces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  four  ounces  of  celery  knob,  four  ounces  of  beetroot,  four 
ounces  of  turnips  all  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  four  ounces  of  string  beans,  cut  lozenge-shaped, 
four  ounces  of  asparagus  tops  and  four  ounces  of  green  peas,  all  cooked  separately  in  salted  water, 
then  refreshed,  except  the  beetroots,  which  must  be  cooked  whole  and  cut  into  squares  afterward. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  mix  with  a  fine  herb  mayonnaise  (No.  612). 

(2651).  OKRA  AND  SWEET  PEPPER  SALAD  (Salade  de  Gombo  et  de  Piments  Doux). 
Cut  the  ends  and  stalks  from  some  tender,  stringless  okras;  cook  them  in  salted  water,  refresh 
and  drain,  then  lay  them  in  a  salad-bowl.     Throw  some  sweet  peppers  into  hot  fat,  peel  off  the 
skins  and  cut  them  in  Julienne,  add  them  to  the  okras,  and  season  with  a  fine  herb  mayonnaise 
(No.  612). 

(2652).  POTATO  AND  BEETROOT  SALAD  (Salade  de  Pommes  de  Terre  et  Betteraves). 
Cut  some  cold  boiled  potatoes  in  three-sixteenths  inch  slices,  also  some  cooked  and  pickled 
beetroots;  remove  twenty-four  rounds  from  each  of  these,  using  a  one-inch  diameter  vegetable  cut- 
ter, and  range  them  crown-shaped,  one  overlapping  the  other,  intercalating  the  beets  and  the  potatoes, 
both  previously  seasoned.  Fill  the  hollow  in  the  center  with  finely  cut,  seasoned  lettuce,  romaine 
or  escarole,  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  very  thick  mayonnaise  (No.  606);  decorate  the  summit  with 
anchovy  fillets  and  tarragon  leaves;  surround  the  border  with  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs. 

(2653).  POTATO  AND  HERRING  SALAD  (Salade  de  Pommes  de  Terre  et  de  Harengs). 
Cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares,  four  pounds  of  potatoes  cooked  in  salted  water,  half 
a  pound  of  sour  apples  cut  in  four,  peeled  and  minced,  eight  medium-sized  vinegar  pickles  also 
minced,  and  four  salted  herrings  boned  and  cut  in  three-eighths  inch  dice,  previously  unsalted  in 
cold  water.  Put  the  potatoes  into  a  bowl,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and 
when  the  seasoning  is  well  mixed  add  the  apples,  pickles  and  herrings,  a  tablespoonful  of  finely 
chopped  onion,  and  four  spoonfuls  of  pickled  beetroot  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  mix  all  the 
ingredients  thoroughly,  then  range  the  salad  on  a  dish  or  in  a  salad  bowl. 

(2654).  HOT  POTATO  SALAD  (Salade  de  Pommes  de  Terre  Claudes). 

Cook  twenty  potatoes,  either  in  water  or  steam,  leaving  on  their  skins;  drain  as  soon  as  done, 
peel  and  cut  into  slices;  lay  them  in  a  bowl  with  two  or  three  gills  of  boiling  broth  (No.  194a) 
poured  over,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  finely  chopped 
white  onion.  This  salad  can  be  served  with  roast  veal,  lamb  or  mutton. 

(2655).  POTATO  SALAD  IN  BORDER  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Salade  de  Pommes  de  Terre  en  Bordure 

aux  Truffes). 

For  a  plain  potato  salad  put  some  fresh  boiled  and  sliced  potatoes  into  a  bowl,  season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  chopped  fine  herbs. 

For  a  Bordered  Salad  with  Truffles,  have  some  carrots  and  turnips  sliced  one  inch  long  by 
three-quarters  wide;  take  out  pieces  with  a  three-eighth  inch  column  tube,  and  put  them  to  cook 
in  salted  water;  when  done  drain  them,  and  set  on  the  center  of  each  piece  of  carrot  and  turnip 
one  asparagus  top  an  inch  and  three-quarters  long;  range  them  crown-shaped,  intercalating  the  car- 
rots and  turnips,  and  set  some  chopped  jelly  around.  Garnish  the  center  with  the  potato  salad 
dressed  dome-shaped;  cover  the  potatoes  with  round  slices  of  truffle  and  then  serve. 

(2656).  OYSTER  PLANT  SALAD  (Salade  de  Salsifis). 

Scrape  two  pounds  of  oyster  plants,  plunge  them  as  soon  as  they  are  done  in  water  acidulated 
with  vinegar,  then  cut  into  inch  long  pieces.  Dilute  two  spoonfuls  of  flour  with  two  quarts  of 
water,  add  to  it  salt  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  medium-sized  onion,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished 
with  thyme  and  bay  leaf;  boil  up  the  liquid,  then  put  in  the  oyster  plants,  and  let  simmer  until 
they  are  thoroughly  cooked,  then  set  them  aside  to  drain  and  get  cold,  and  cut  each  one  into  four 
pieces  lengthwise.  Range  these  in  a  salad  bowl,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  also 
some  chopped  parsley,  and  half  an  hour  before  serving  cover  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606). 


CO-LD    SERVICE.  811 

(2657).  STEING  BEAN  SALAD  (Salade  de  Haricots  Verts). 

Have  one  pound  of  small  string  beans;  if  too  large  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two,  and  cook  them 
in  salted  water  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel;  refresh  them  and  drain.  Put  them  into  a  salad  bowl 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  three  of  oil. 

(2658),  WHITE  BEAN  SALAD  (Salade  de  Haricots  Blancs). 

When  the  white  beans  are  cooked  the  same  as  for  No.  2701,  and  cold,  put  them  in  a  salad 
bowl  with  a  little  shallot,  chives  and  parsley,  all  finely  chopped,  and  for  each  quart  of  beans  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  six  of  oil,  salt  and  pepper;  stir  well  and  serve. 


EAW  VEGETABLE  SALADS  (Salades  de  Legumes  Cms), 


(2659).  CABBAGE  SALAD— WHITE  OR  EED  (Salade  de  Choux-Blancs  ou  Kouges). 

Have  either  a  very  fresh  white  or  red  cabbage;  suppress  the  outer  leaves,  also  the  hard 
parts  and  core;  mince  it  up  finely,  and  lay  it  in  a  bowl,  sprinkle  over  some  salt,  and  let 
macerate  for  one  hour,  then  drain  off  its  liquid  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  A 
cabbage  salad,  called  cold  slaw,  is  made  by  shredding  the  cabbage  as  finely  as  possible  and  seasoning 
it  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  tomato  catsup. 

(2660).  OELEKT  SALAD  AND  OELEEY  KNOB  SALAD  (Salade  de  Oeleri  et  Salade  de  Oeleri  Eave) 

Eemove  the  first  stalks,  which  are  generally  hollow,  and  put  the  good  ones  into  a  bowl  of  cold 
water;  cut  each  stalk  into  pieces  one  inch  and  a  half  long,  then  divide  these  pieces  into  lengths 
the  same  as  a  large  Julienne;  wash  well,  drain  and  dry  them  thoroughly;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
mustard,  oil  and  vinegar. 

Celery  Knob. — Choose  these  very  tender,  peel  and  cut  them  into  thin  round  slices,  set  them  in 
a  bowl  in  layers,  salting  each  one  separately.  One  hour  later  pour  off  the  water  and  season  with 
oil,  vinegar,  ground  pepper  and  mustard.  Macerate  for  one  hour  in  its  seasoning,  and  then  serve. 

(2661).  OUCUMBEE  SALAD,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Salade  de  Ooncombres  a  1'Anglaise), 

Select  the  tenderest  cucumbers,  peel  off  the  rind,  slice  the  interior  finely,  and  lay  them  in  a 
dish,  sprinkle  over  some  fine  salt,  and  let  macerate  for  fifteen  minutes;  season  them,  after  strain- 
ing off  the  liquid,  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  adding  some  chopped  parsley. 

English  /Style. — The  same,  only  add  a  very  finely  minced  onion. 

(2662).  OUOUMBEE  AND  TOMATO  SALAD  (Salade  de  Ooncombres  et  Tomates). 
The  same  as  for  English  style,  only  adding  very  firm,  finely  sliced  and  peeled  tomatoes  as  well 
as  the  onion. 

(2663).  EGGPLANT  SALAD,  PEOVENQAL  (Salade  d'Aubergines  Prove^ale), 

Peel  and  slice  some  eggplant  into  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  pare  it  in  rounds  one  and  a 
quarter  inches  in  diameter,  lay  them  in  salt  for  ten  minutes,  then  sponge  them  off  and  season  with 
pepper,  garlic,  oil  and  vingear;  then  add  the  same  quantity  of  water  cress  and  a  few  hard-boiled 


(2684).  GEEMAN  SALAD  WITH  OEOUTONS  (Salade  Allemande  aux  Croutons). 

Blanch  in  boiling  water  one  pound  of  sauerkraut  for  five  minutes,  refresh  and  add  to  it  one 
pound  of  red  cabbage  previously  pickled  in  vinegar.  Out  up  the  sauerkraut  to  make  the  pieces 
shorter,  and  lay  them  in  a  bowl  with  three  ounces  of  very  fine  chopped  onions,  blanched  and 
refreshed;  add  to  this  one  ounce  of  grated  horseradish  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  chervil. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil  and  two  of  vinegar,  and  serve  in  a  salad 
bowl  with  a  ring  of  round  croutons  on  top  made  of  fragments  of  puff-paste  (No.  146),  one  and  a 
quarter  inches  thick,  cut  with  a  round  pastry-cutter,  then  cooked  in  a  very  slack  oven. 


812  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2665).  ONION  SALAD-BERMUDA  (Salade  d'Oignons  de  Bermude). 

Mince  the  onions  very  finely,  either  with  a  knife  or  the  machine,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  oil  and  vinegar. 

(2666).  TOMATO   SALAD  (Salade  de  Tomates). 

To  peel  tomatoes  throw  them  into  boiling  water;  cut  them  in  slices  across  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  a  little  oil;  arrange  them  in  a  salad  bowl. 

(2667).  TRUFFLE  SALAD  A  LA  GAMBETTA  (Salade  de  Truffes  a  la  Gambetta). 
Mince  six  fine  peeled  Piedmontese  truffles,  weighing  eight  ounces,  put  them  into  a  bowl  with 
three  artichoke  bottoms,  previously  cooked  and  cut  into  eight  pieces.  Kub  through  a  sieve  four 
hard-boiled  egg-yolks,  lay  them  in  a  bowl  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mustard,  work  well  together, 
then  incorporate  three  gills  of  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar;  rub  the  bottom  of  a  salad  bowl  with 
a  clove  of  garlic,  set  the  truffles  in,  and  the  artichokes  over;  cover  all  with  some  mayonnaise 
(No.  607),  mixing  in  also  some  tarragon,  chervil,  chives  and  parsley,  all  finely  chopped. 


GREEN  SALADS  (Salades  Vertes), 


(2668).  CHICORY  SALAD  (Salade  de  ChicorSe). 

Select  the  chicory  heads;  having  yellow  hearts  and  very  fine  leaves;  cut  away  all  the  green 
and  wash  the  white  part,  drain  and  shake  well  in  a  napkin  or  wire  basket  to  remove  all  the 
water.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  chervil  and  tarragon,  or,  instead  of  these 
herbs  use  a  piece  of  bread-crust  after  rubbing  a  clove  of  garlic  over  it.  This  piece  of  bread  is 
called  a  capon. 

(2669).  CORN  SALAD  OR  LAMB'S  LETTUCE  SALAD  (Salade  de  Mache  on  Doucette). 

This  salad  can  be  mixed  with  monk's  beard  and  slices  of  cooked  beetroot.  It  should  be  well 
picked  and  all  the  yellow  leaves  removed;  clean  the  roots,  cut  them  off  when  too  large,  and  divide 
the  stalks  into  two  or  four  parts;  add  cooked  slices  of  beetroot  and  chopped  chervil;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar.  Monk's  beard  may  be  mixed  with  it,  half  and  half. 

(2670).  DANDELION  SALAD  (Salade  de  Dent-de-lion). 

This  salad  takes  the  place  of  wild  chicory,  especially  in  winter,  and  by  growing  it  in  cellars 
it  can  be  had  very  white  and  tender.  Prepare  and  season  it  the  same  as  monk's  beard  (No.  2674). 

(2671).  ESOAROLE  AND  ENDIVE  SALAD  (Salade  d'Escarolle  et  d'Endive). 
Take  the  leaves  when  quite  yellow,  remove  the  hard  parts,  and  split  each  leaf  in  the  center  its 
entire  length;  it  is  always  preferable  not  to  wash  these  salads,  as  the  leaves  can  be  cleaned 
by   wiping  them.       Season    with  salt,  pepper,    oil.    vinegar  and    finely  chopped    chervil    and 
tarragon. 

(2672).  LETTUCE  SALAD,  PLAIN  (Salade  de  Laitue,  Simple). 

Choose  freshly  gathered  and  well-filled  lettuce  heads,  suppress  the  hard  leaves,  keeping  only 
the  yellow  ones;  pick  them  off  the  stalks,  retaining  the  heart  whole,  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  cut  it 
in  four.  Split  each  leaf  through  the  center,  wash  them  at  once,  drain,  wipe  and  shake  the  salad 
well  to  extract  all  the  water,  then  place  it  in  a  salad  bowl,  sprinkling  over  some  chopped  chervil 
and  tarragon.  Put  into  a  bottle  four  egg-yolks,  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  eight  of  oil,  some 
salt  and  pepper;  shake  the  seasoning  up  well  in  the  bottle,  and  pour  it  over  the  lettuce,  stirring  it 
until  it  is  properly  mixed. 


COLD    SERVICE.  813 

(2673),  LETTUCE  AND  ANCHOVY  SALAD  (Salade  de  Laitue  aux  Anchois), 
This  is  made  with  well  washed  and  dried  lettuce  by  shredding  it  up  finely;  season  and 
lay  it  in  a  salad  bowl,  cover  with  a  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  606),  decorated  with  fillets  and  an- 
chovies, hard-boiled  yolks  and  whites  of  eggs,  and  some  finely  chopped  herbs.  A  lettuce  salad 
may  be  served  garnished  with  hard-boiled  eggs  and  plenty  of  herbs.  Lettuce  salad  may  also  be 
seasoned  with  sweet  or  sour  cream  instead  of  oil. 

(2674).  MONK'S  BEAED  SALAD  (Salade  de  Barbe  de  Capucin), 

This  salad  is  very  much  liked  and  is  exceedingly  wholesome.  Clean  it  well  by  wiping  the 
leaves  with  a  towel — do  not  wash  it;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  adding  a  few  slices 
of  beetroot. 

(2675).  COS  LETTUCE  SALAD  (Salade  de  Bomaine). 

Remove  all  the  green  leaves  until  the  yellow  ones  are  reached;  wipe  each  leaf  well,  and  split 
them  lengthwise,  then  cut  into  two-inch  long  pieces,  continuing  as  far  as  the  heart;  split  it  in  four; 
place  in  a  salad  bowl  and  season  the  salad  with  chervil,  tarragon,  all  finely  cut,  egg-yolks  (one  egg 
for  two  persons)  and  dilute  with  eight  spoonfuls  of  oil  and  two  of  vinegar;  add  salt,  pepper  and 
green  mustard;  mix  well  when  ready  to  serve.  The  egg-yolks  may  be  suppressed. 

(2676).  WATEE  OEESS  AND  APPLE  SALAD  AND  NONPAEEIL  [CHirPONADE]  SALAD 
(Salade  de  Oresson  aux  Pommes  d'Arbre  et  Salade  Nonpareil  [Chiffonade].) 

Have  very  clean  and  green  water-cress;  season  it  only  when  ready  to  serve  with  a  very  little 
oil,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar  and  some  sour  apples  cut  in  slices.  Pepper  water-cresses  are  prepared  the 
same. 

Nonpareil  (Chiffonade)  Salad.  — Place  in  the  bottom  of  a  bowl  some  seasoning  composed  of 
salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar;  mix  well  with  a  fork.  Mince  some  lettuce  very  fine,  also  the  same 
quantity  of  chicory  and  celery;  dress  dome-shaped  in  the  bowl  containing  the  seasoning.  Chop  up 
separately  the  whites  and  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
squares  the  same  volume  of  beets  and  potatoes.  Divide  the  dome  in  four  equal  parts  with  anchovy 
fillets,  garnish  one  of  these  parts  with  beets,  one  with  the  chopped  egg-white,  one  with  the  chopped 
yolks,  and  the  last  one  with  the  chopped  potatoes;  bestrew  over  all  finely  chopped  truffles,  parsley, 
lobster  coral,  and  in  the  center  place  a  nice  Spanish  olive. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


VEGETABLES  OL6gumes), 


(2677).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  ELOEENOE  (Eonds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Florence). 

Prepare  and  cook  some  artichoke  bottoms  the  same  as  for  la  Villars  (No.  2682);  fill  the  hollow 
in  th.e  center  with  minced  truffles  and  mushrooms  fried  in  butter,  this  to  be  drained  off  and  the 
preparation  mingled  with  well-reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  let  get  cold  after  they  are  filled 
dome  form,  and  smooth  neatly  with  a  knife;  then  lay  them  on  a  buttered  sheet,  bestrew  with  bread- 
crumbs and  grated  parmesan,  pour  butter  over  and  color  in  a  hot  oven.  Dress  them  in  a  circle, 
filMng  the  center  with  blanched  artichoke  bottoms,  cut  in  six  parts,  pared  and  cooked  in  butter; 
pour  over  a  buttered  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  and  send  to  the  table. 


(2678).  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  JUSSIENNE  (Eonds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Jussienne). 

Turn  some  artichoke  bottoms  the  same  as  mushrooms  (No.  118),  rub  them  over  with  lemon  and 
cook  in  a  seasoned  white  stock  (No.  182),  to  which  add  pieces  of  marrow;  drain  when  well  done.  Mince 
a  few  mushrooms,  cut  them  into  strips  and  fry  them  in  butter;  drain  off  the  latter  and  replace  it  by 
thick  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  cover  the  artichoke  bottoms  with  this,  mask  over  with  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407),  reduced  with  a  little  jelly  (No.  103),  into  which  mix  more  mushrooms  and  chopped 
truffles;  allow  to  cool;  roll  them  in  white  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  again  in  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color;  drain,  wipe  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish  in  a  circle,  having  the  center 
filled  with  sliced  cooked  sweet  potatoes,  cut  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  and  one  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter.  Serve  separately  a  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 


(2679).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  MONTGLAS  (Ponds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Montglas). 

Have  some  artichoke  bottoms  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  as  for  la  Villars  (No.  2682);  drain 
and  fill  the  hollow  centers  with  a  montglas  garnishing  cut  in  small  sticks,  composed  of  red  beef 
tongue,  truffles,  mushrooms  and  some  cooked  white  meat  of  a  chicken;  mingle  them  with  a  well 
reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  and  remove  from  the  fire  at  the  first  boil  and  leave  till  cold; 
then  fill  the  artichoke  bottoms,  forming  them  bomb-shaped  on  top;  cover  with  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89),  smooth  and  strew  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  over  the  entire  surface. 
Range  them  on  a  small  baking  sheet,  pour  plenty  of  clarified  butter  over  and  finish  cooking  in  a 
slack,  oven,  basting  frequently. 

(815) 


816  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2680).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  MOENAY  (Fonds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Mornay). 
Wipe  dry  ten  to  twelve  cooked  artichoke  bottoms,  all  of  the  same  size;  fill  the  hollow  side  with 
a  foies-gras  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  chopped  cooked  truffles; 
smooth  the  top  of  the  preparation  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  well-reduced  Mornay  sauce  (No. 
504) ;  bestrew  the  sauce  with  parmesan  cheese,  and  brown  for  two  minutes  under  a  salamander 
(Fig.  123). 

(2681),  AKTIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  SOUBISE  (Ponds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Soubise). 
Prepare  a  soubise  puree  (No.  723).  Select  some  equal-sized  cooked  artichoke  bottoms,  drain 
and  wipe  them  on  a  cloth;  cover  the  hollow  side  with  a  part  of  the  soubise  puree  (No.  723)  and 
let  it  get  cold,  then  over  this  lay  a  thin  layer  of  delicate  raw  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89); 
besprinkle  with  bread-crumbs,  and  brush  over  with  butter.  Range  these  artichoke  bottoms  in  a 
sautoir  with  some  good  gravy  (No.  404),  and  heat  them  well  while  browning  slightly. 

(2682).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  A  LA  VILLAES  (lends  d'Artichauts  a  la  Villars). 
Procure  twelve  raw  artichoke  bottoms;  when  turned  (Figs.  547-548)  and  pared  blanch  them  in 
salted  water  and  cook  in  white  stock  (No.  182),  with  aromaticsand  a  little  white  wine,  keeping  them 
slightly  firm;  drain  on  a  cloth  and  then  cut  out  the  bottom  with  a  two  and  a  quarter  inch  diameter 
tin  cutter.  Lay  them  in  a  sautoir,  moisten  with  a  little  chicken  bouillon  (No.  188)  and  a  small 
piece  of  butter.  Reduce  the  liquid  entirely.  Mince  some  white  onions,  blanch  them  for  a  few 
minutes,  fry  them  lightly  in  butter  and  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a)  and  cream,  half  of  each, 
adding  the  same  quantity  of  minced  fresh  mushrooms;  reduce  and  leave  to  cool.  Drain  the 
artichoke  bottoms,  cover  the  hollow  side  with  the  preparation,  and  this  with  a  layer  of  raw 
cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  strew  over  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir 
with  a  little  stock  (No.  194a);  color  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  dress  on  a  well-buttered  reduced 
cream  veloute  sauce  (No.  415). 

(2683).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  FEIED  (Fonds  d'Artichauts  Frits). 

Pare  off  the  bottoms  of  some  young,  tender  and  stringless  artichokes;  after  cutting  away  the 
green  part  divide  each  one  in  four,  remove  the  choke  and  cut  the  leaves  at  half  an  inch  from  the 
bottom;  divide  each  quarter  in  four  and  throw  them  at  once  into  a  pan  of  water  acidulated  with 
vinegar;  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Prepare  a  frying 
paste  with  flour,  diluted  with  water,  adding  a  few  egg-yolks  and  a  little  olive  oil;  whip  the  whites  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  beat  them  into  the  paste;  dip  each  piece  of  artichoke  into  this  and  plunge  them 
in  hot  frying  fat;  cook  slowly,  drain,  wipe  and  salt  over  with  salt;  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  with 
a  bunch  of  parsley  on  top. 

(2684).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  STUFFED— LEAN  (Fonds  d'Artichauts  Farcis  au  Maigre) . 

Pare  eight  or  ten  raw  artichoke  bottoms,  blanch  them  in  salted  water  and  cook  them  in  a  white 
stock  (No.  182)  with  aromatic  herbs  and  a  little  white  wine,  keeping  them  rather  hard,  then  drain 
them  on  a  cloth.  Prepare  a  duxelle  (No.  385)  composed  of  chopped  onions,  shallots,  truffles  and 
mushrooms,  mingled  first  with  a  little  smooth  cream  frangipane  panada  (No.  120),  then  with  a  little 
sauce;  season  the  preparation  and  finish  it  with  some  raw  egg-yolks,  chopped  parsley  and  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  salted  anchovy  fillets  cut  in  small  dice.  With  this  forcemeat  cover  the  artichoke 
bottoms,  smooth  and  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs;  range  them  in  a  small  deep  baking  dish,  capa- 
ble of  being  placed  in  the  oven,  and  besprinkle  lightly  with  oil;  finish  cooking  in  a  slack  oven,  basting 
over  frequently. 

(2685).  AETIOHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  BAKED  OAULIFLOWEE  (Fonds  d'Artichauts  aux  Ohoux- 

Fleurs  Gratines). 

Have  some  artichoke  bottoms  cooked  and  prepared  as  for  la  Villars  (No.  2682);  drain  and  fill 
the  hollow  centers  with  flowerets  of  cauliflower;  cover  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  bestrew  the 
top  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  baste  over  with  butter,  and  range  them  at  once  on  a 
buttered  baking  sheet;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish;  pour  bechamel 
cream  sauce  (No.  411)  in  the  center,  or  else  a  brown  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 


VKGKETABLES.  817 

(2686).  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  CREAM  BECHAMEL.  BAKED  (Ponds  d'Artichauts  Bechamel 

a  la  Creme,  au  GratiuX 

Drain  some  cooked  artichoke  bottoms  (Fig.  546-548)  on  a  cloth,  selecting  those  of  equal  size;  fill 
the  hollow  in  the  center  with  a  layer  of  delicate  chicken  godiveau  (No.  82);  cover  this  with  cream 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  411)  and  besprinkle  the  surface  with  grated  parmesan,  pouring  some  butter 
over.  Range  them  at  once  in  a  sautoir,  having  its  bottom  covered  with  a  little  good  gravy  (No. 
404);  baste  over  with  more  melted  butter  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes;  they 
should  be  of  a  nice  color.  Dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  pour  some  cream  bechamel  in  the  center. 

(2687).  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  MARROW  (Ponds  d'Artichauts  a  la  Moelle). 
In  case  there  be  no  fresh  artichokes  canned  ones  can  be  procured  at  any  time  of  the  year. 
Drain  and  range  the  cooked  bottoms  in  a  flat  saucepan;  moisten  with  a  little  good  unskimmed 
stock  (No.  194a)  with  white  wine;  heat  them  simply  over  a  slow  fire,  but  if  too  hard  boil  them  until 
perfectly  done.  Soak  two  or  three  pieces  of  raw  beef  marrow,  without  the  bone;  wrap  them  up 
in  fine  pieces  of  muslin  and  poach  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  stock  (No.  194a).  Just  when  pre- 
pared to  serve  drain  the  artichoke  bottoms  carefully,  wipe  them  on  a  towel,  and  drain  the  pieces 
of  marrow  as  well;  unwrap  these  and  let  get  partly  cold;  then  cut  them  across  in  thick  slices 
and  glaze  them  with  a  brush ;  keep  them  for  a  few  moments  at  the  oven  door,  then  set  one  slice 
in  the  hollow  of  each  artichoke  bottom;  dress  these  on  a  dish,  cover  with  a  little  brown  sauce  (No. 
414)  reduced  with  Madeira  wine,  not  having  it  too  consistent.  For  garnishing  artichoke  bottoms, 
a  macedoine  of  vegetables  (No.  680)  may  be  substituted  for  the  marrow,  or  else  green  peas,  Parisian 
style  (No.  2745),  with  which  mix  a  quarter  as  much  cooked  chicken,  using  only  the  white  part  cut 
in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares. 

(2688).  ARTICHOKES  QUARTERED  A  LA  COLBERT,  STUFFED  A  LA  VILLEROI,  FRIED  AND 

BRAISED  (Quartiers  d'Artichauts  a  la  Colbert,  Farcis  a  la  Villeroi,  Frits  et  Praises). 
To  prepare  these  artichokes  the  hard  outside  leaves  must  first  be  removed,  the  remaining 
ones  shortened  and  the  bottoms  pared;  then  divide  them  in  four,  blanch  in  salted  acidulated 
water  until  the  choke  detaches  easily;  throw  them  into  cold  water,  drain  and  pare  once  more  (see 
Fig.  545).  They  can  be  cooked  in  several  ways,  either  sauteing  in  butter  to  finish  the  cooking, 
and  adding  just  when  ready  to  serve  some  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  lemon  juice,  seasoning  and 
chopped  parsley.  Or  they  can  be  cooked  in  a  white  stock  (No.  182),  and  then  served  in  their 
natural  state,  either  by  filling  the  space  between  the  leaves  and  the  bottom  with  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89)  that  has  had  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  mingled  in,  then  poached  and  cov 
ered  with  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560),  breaded  and  fried.  Those  not  stuffed  may  also  be  breaded  a 
la  Villeroi  and  fried.  They  can  also  be  braised  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  bards  of  fat  pork;  moisten 
with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  and  cover  with  more  bards  of  fat  pork.  When  done  dress  them  in 
a  vegetable  dish,  and  have  half  of  their  stock  skimmed  and  strained  over;  reduce  the  other  half 
with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  when  well  reduced  fill  some  hollowed-out  bread-crusts  (No.  51) 
with  blanched  marrow;  cover  with  a  part  of  this  last  sauce,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2689).  ARTICHOKES-WHOLE— A  LA  BARIGOULE  (Artichauts  Entiers  a  la  Barigoule), 
Pare  eight  medium-sized  artichokes;  suppress  the  hardest  leaves  from  the  bottom  (Fig.  544) 


FIG.  542.  FIG.  543.  FIG.  544. 


.  FIG.  545.  FIG.  546.  FIG.  547.  FIG.  548. 

and  cut  the  upper  ones  off  straight  on  the  pointed  end;  empty  out  the  inside,  or  more  properly 
speaking  the  chokes  (Fig.  543),  wash  thoroughly  and  drain  well,  turning  them  upside  down  so  as  to 


818  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

have  no  water  left  in  the  inside.  Pour  some  oil  in  a  pan;  when  very  hot  fry  the  tips  of  the 
artichoke  leaves  in  it.  Should  the  bottoms  be  thin,  then  lay  another  one  inside,  thus  having  two 
bottoms  to  one  artichoke.  To  make  the  dressing,  chop  up  half  a  pound  of  fresh  fat  pork  with  half 
a  pound  of  butter;  add  three  finely  chopped  small  shallots,  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  pound  of  finely  minced  or  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  gill  of  Madeira 
wine.  Have  all  these  ingredients  properly  mingled,  divide  in  eight  parts,  and  fill  the  inside  of 
the  artichokes  with  them;  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  tie  with  two  rows  of  string  and  lay  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  slices  of  fat  pork;  on  the  bottom  place  carrots,  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  with 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  moisten  with  half  stock  (No.  194a)  and  white  wine;  boil,  skim  and  then  cook  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour  or  longer,  until  the  leaves  detach  easily;  drain  the  stock,  skim  and 
reduce  it  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  to  half-glaze,  adding  lemon  juice.  Untie  the  artichokes, 
suppress  the  fat  pork  and  dress;  cover  lightly  with  a  part  of  the  sauce,  serving  the  remainder  sep- 
arately. 

(2690).  ARTICHOKES— WHOLE— A  LA  EAOHEL  (Artichauts  Entiers  a  la  Rachel). 
These  proportions  are  for  six  artichokes:  Pare  them  by  removing  the  hardest  leaves  next  to  the 
stalk,  suppress  the  green  bottom  part  and  cut  off  the  tip  of  each  leaf  straight;  empty  the  inside  by 
removing  all  the  choke  (Fig.  543),  wash  and  drain  well.  Cut  a  medium-sized  onion  and  one  shallot  into 
small  squares,  fry  in  butter  and  add  one  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms  chopped  very  finely;  place  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire  and  keep  stirring  with  a  spoon  until  the  mushrooms  have  their  moisture  re. 
duced,  then  add  some  chopped  parsley  and  fresh  bread-crumbs;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg 
and  pour  in  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409).  Fill  the  artichokes  bomb-shaped  with  this  and  lay  on 
top  one  fine  turned  or  channeled  mushroom  (No.  118);  cover  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  tie  with  two 
turns  of  string  and  braise  in  a  low  saucepan  lined  with  pieces  of  fat  pork,  moistening  with  white 
wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419);  drain  this  off  when  done,  skim  the  fat  and  reduce  to  a  quarter- 
glaze.  Dress  the  artichokes  and  pour  a  little  of  the  stock  over.  Serve  separately  a  veloute  sauce 
(No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392),  the  rest  of  the  stock  and  a  little  well-buttered 
tomato  puree  (No.  730);  serve. 

(2691).  ARTICHOKES-WHOLE-BOILED,  WITH  WHITE  OR  VINAIGRETTE  SAUCE  (Artichauts 
Entiers  Bouillis,  &  la  Sauce  Blanche  ou  a  la  Vinaigrette). 

Select  artichokes  of  a  medium  size;  remove  the  hardest  leaves  from  the  base,  pare  the 
bottoms  well,  suppressing  all  the  green  part,  then  cut  off  the  tips  of  each  leaf  straight  (see  Fig. 
543).  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water  and  cook  until  the  leaves  detach,  then  drain, 
remove  the  choke,  and  washing  them  in  their  own  liquor  range  them  on  a  napkin  bottom  downward 
to  have  them  drain  thoroughly;  serve  at  the  same  time  either  a  white  sauce  (No.  562)  or  else  a 
vinaigrette  sauce  (No.  634). 

Boiled  and  cold  artichokes  are  served  with  a  vinaigrette  sauce. 

(2692).  BOILED  ASPARAGUS  WITH  HOLLANDAISE,  HOLLANDAISE  MOUSSELINE  OR 
VINAIGRETTE  SAUOE  (Asperges  Bouillies  k  la  Sauce  Hollandaise  k  la  Sauce  Hollandaise 
Mousseline). 

Have  the  asparagus  freshly  picked,  if  practicable;  trim  the  tops,  and  scrape  or  peel  the  stalks; 
then  pare  them  into  equal  lengths,  and  tie  them  in  small  bunches,  separating  the  larger  ones  from 
the  smaller.  Fasten  them  well  with  string.  Boil  the  asparagus  in  plenty  of  salted  water  in  an 
untinned  copper  basin,  plunging  them  into  the  liquid;  cover  the  vessel  and  let  cook  slowly.  As 
soon  as  they  are  done  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  afterward  untie  the  bunches  on  a  cloth  and  dress 
them  symmetrically  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin;  carefully  reserve  the  handsomest  ones  for  the 
top.  Send  to  the  table  at  the  same  time  a  good  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477),  or  else  a  vinaigrette  sauce. 

Vinaigrette. — Put  into  a  vessel  six  hard-boiled  egg-yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  smooth 
nicely  while  beating  with  a  spoon,  and  incorporate  slowly  two  gills  of  good  oil,  two  spoonfuls  of 
cold  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  a  little  vinegar,  mustard,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  or  chervil.  Serve 
this  sauce  the  same  time  as  the  asparagus,  or  else  serve  them  with  a  Hollandaise  mousseline  sauce 
(No.  477). 

(2693).  ASPARAGUS,  COUNTESS  STYLE-HEADS  (TStes  d'Asperges  k  la  Comtesse). 

Scrape  some  green  asparagus,  cut  them,  leaving  the  tops  two  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  tie 

these  into  small  bunches:  cook  in  salted  water,  and  when  done  cut  off  the  strings  and  dress  them 

in  a  pyramid;  garnish  around  with  bouche'es  filled  with  asparagus  tops  and  mushrooms  as  follows: 

After  the  asparagus  is  cut  off  for  the  above  break  the  remaining  tender  parts  of  the  stalks,  and 


VEG-ETABLES.  819 

cut  them  into  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  pieces;  cook  in  salted  water,  and  drain;  put  these  into  a 
saucepan  with  as  much  cooked  mushrooms  cut  into  quarter-inch  squares,  and  dilute  with  good 
buttered  veloute"  (No.  415);  season  properly,  and  fill  very  hot  bouchees  (No.  11)  with  it.  Serve  a 
veloute  sauce  apart,  having  it  thickened  at  the  last  moment  with  egg-yolks,  cream,  a  liberal  piece 
of  fresh  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

(2694).  ASPARAGUS  IS  SMALL  BUNCHES— HEADS  (Tetes  d'Asperges  en  Petites  Bottes). 

Scrape  the  stalks  of  some  medium-sized  asparagus;  cut  them  from  the  top  end  into  two  and  a 
half  inch  lengths,  and  with  these  form  small  bunches,  holding  them  together  by  two  rings  cut  from 
a  carrot  about  two  inches  in  diameter;  cook  them  in  salted  water.  Use  these  small  bunches  for 
garnishing  hot  or  cold  removes,  pouring  a  little  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477)  over,  or  else  a  vinai- 
grette sauce  (No.  634),  both  to  be  well  seasoned. 

(2695).  ASPARAGUS  TOPS  A  LA  MAINTENON  (Pointes  d'Asperges  a  la  Maintenon), 
Have  all  the  asparagus  of  the  same  size,  not  too  slender;  break  off  the  stalks  at  the  beginning 
of  the  tender  part;  strip  off  the  heads,  and  cut  the  tender  part  into  inch  lengths;  put  the 
heads  aside  to  cook  separately.  Plunge  the  lengths  into  boiling  salted  water  placed  in  an  untinned 
copper  pan;  boil  quickly,  keeping  them  slightly  hard,  then  wipe  on  a  cloth,  and  put  them  into  a 
thin  sautoir  with  melted  butter;  season,  heat  rapidly  while  tossing,  then  remove.  The  asparagus 
can  now  be  laid  in  a  little  veloute  (No.  415)  and  chicken  puree  (No.  713).  Serve  the  aspara- 
gus in  a  vegetable  dish,  surrounded  with  croutons  of  bread  shaped  like  a  cock's-comb,  and  fried  in 
butter,  just  when  prepared  to  dish  up. 

(2696).  ASPARAGUS  TOPS  PRIED  A  LA  MIRANDA  (Pointes  d'Asperges  Frites  a  la  Miranda). 

Bend  and  break  off  the  tender  part  of  the  asparagus  into  one  inch  lengths;  blanch 
them  well  in  salted  water;  drain  and  dip  in  fine  cracker  dust,  then  in  beaten  egg,  and  finally  in 
bread-crumbs;  fry,  drain,  salt,  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin,  laying  a  bunch  of  fried  green  parsley 
on  top.  Serve  apart  a  sauce  made  with  one  hard-boiled  egg-yolk  mingled  with  one  raw  yolk,  mus- 
tard, salt  and  pepper;  beat  vigorously,  stirring  in  a  little  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar. 

(2697).  ASPARAGUS  TOPS  WITH  OHEESE  (Pointes  d'Asperges  an  Fromage). 

Scrape  some  medium-sized  asparagus;  cut  them  into  quarter  of  an  inch  lengths,  cook  in  salted 
water,  keeping  them  slightly  hard,  drain  and  put  them  into  a  sautoir  with  butter,  and  toss  for 
a  few  moments  over  the  fire  to  evaporate  all  the  moisture.  Drain  off  the  butter,  season  and  dress 
on  a  vegetable  dish;  cover  the  surface  with  freshly  kneaded  butter,  into  which  mix  as  much 
grated  parmesan  as  the  butter  can  absorb;  salt,  if  found  necessary,  adding  a  little  cayenne  pepper; 
push  into  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it  browns. 

(2698).  FRESH  BEANS,  WITH  CREAM  AND  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Feves  Fraiches  a  la  Oreme  et  a 

1'Anglaise.) 

Take  freshly  picked,  shelled  and  tender  beans;  put  them  to  blanch  in  salted  water  with  a  small 
bunch  of  savory  added,  then  transfer  them  to  a  saucepan  with  hot  butter;  season.  Fry  them  for 
two  minutes  on  a  hot  fire  to  evaporate  their  moisture  and  thicken  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
reduced  bechamel  (No.  409);  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  large  piece  of  butter  divided  in 
small  pats;  finish  with  a  little  nutmug  and  serve  with  puff-paste  croutons  around. 

English  Style. — Blanch  some  fresh  green  beans  in  salted  water  until  the  skin  detaches  easily, 
then  let  get  cold  and  suppress  these  skins;  saute  the  beans  in  butter,  season  with  salt,  nutmeg 
and  finely  cut-up  fresh  savory.  Transfer  them  to  a  vegetable  dish  and  serve  with  thin  slices  of 
butter  laid  on  top. 

(2699).  LIMA  OR  KIDNEY  BEANS,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (Haricots  de  Lima  on  Flageolets  Maitre 

d'Hotel). 

Have  a  pound  of  medium-sized,  freshly  picked  lima  beans;  boil  them  in  salted  water  in  an 
untinned  copper  saucepan,  then  drain.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sautoir,  heat  it  well,  add 
the  beans  and  saute\  seasoning  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley;  stir  in  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415)  and  fresh  butter,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over,  then  serve. 


820  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2700).  EED  BEANS,  SMOTHERED  (Haricots  Kouges  a  l'Etuve"e). 

Steep  a  pound  of  red  beans  for  six  hours  in  cold  water,  drain,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  and 
moisten  to  double  their  height  with  cold  water;  add  half  a  pound  of  blanched  bacon,  a  carrot  cut 
in  four,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf.  When  the  beans  are  three- 
quarters  done,  take  out  the  carrots  and  herbs  and  put  in  one  pound  of  small  onions  fried  in 
clarified  butter,  also  a  pint  of  red  wine;  continue  to  boil  until  thoroughly  done,  then  drain,  and 
put  them  back  into  a  sautoir  and  thicken  with  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  seasoning  with 
salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley.  Dress  the  beans  and  surround  them  with  the  bacon  cut  up  in 
slices.  The  red  beans  may  be  replaced  by  white  or  black  beans. 

(2701),  WHITE  BEANS,  THICKENED  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  AND  BRETONNE  (Haricots  Blancs 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Lie's  et  Bretonne). 

Put  a  pound  of  dry  white  beans  to  soak  in  cold  water  for  six  hours;  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
and  cover  to  three  times  above  their  height  with  cold  water;  set  this  on  the  fire  and  with- 
draw the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  range  at  the  first  boil;  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  butter,  let  cook, 
and  when  they  crush  easily  under  the  pressure  of  the  finger  drain  and  transfer  to  another  sauce- 
pan; season  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168)  and  nutmeg;  add  a  little  thickened  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  and  chopped  parsley. 

Bretonne. — Add  chopped  onions,  cooked  colorless  in  butter,  to  the  above,  and  instead  of  the 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  substitute  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  finishing  with  chopped  parsley. 

(2702).  BEETROOT  FRITTERS  A  LA  DICKENS ;  BEETROOTS  WITH  BUTTER  AND  PINE  HERBS 
AND  BEETROOTS  WITH  CREAM  (Beignets  de  Betteraves  a  la  Dickens;  Betteraves  au  Beurre 
et  fines  Herbes  et  Betteraves  a  la  Oreme). 

Cut  some  beetroots  cooked  as  below  in  slices,  each  one  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  wipe  dry 
and  place  on  half  of  them  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  the  following  preparation:  Fry  two 
well-chopped  onions  colorless  in  butter;  add  four  ounces  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  a  pinch  of 
minced  chervil,  salt  and  pepper;  on  this  layer  place  another  round  of  beetroot,  and  from  the  whole 
remove  rounds  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  dip  these  in  frying  batter  (No.  137)  and  plunge  into 
very  hot  frying  fat,  drain,  wipe  and  dress  as  a  garnishing  around  a  meat  remove. 

With  Butter  and  Fine  Herbs.  — These  beets  can  be  cooked  in  boiling  water  or  by  steam  with- 
out suppressing  the  stalk  or  root  end;  select  them  always  of  a  fine  red;  peel  after  they  are  done  and 
cut  them  up  into  quarter-inch  thick  slices  and  from  these  remove  rounds  two  to  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter;  lay  them  in  saucepan  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  vinegar;  saute  for  a  few 
moments  and  serve;  chopped  parsley  and  chives  can  be  scattered  over  the  top. 

With  Cream. — After  the  beetroots  are  cooked  and  cut  into  slices,  as  above,  simmer  them  in 
fresh  cream,  seasoning  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  nutmeg;  thicken  just  when  ready  to  serve 
with  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter. 

(2703).  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  A  LA  BARONESS  (Ohoux  de  Bruxelles  a  la  Baronne). 

Clean,  prepare  and  cook  the  sprouts  the  same  as  for  sauted  (No.  2704);  the  only  difference  to 
be  observed  is  that  instead  of  boiling  them  entirely  have  them  only  three-quarters  cooked.  Put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  as  many  chestnuts  also  three-quarters  cooked;  moisten  with  fresh 
cream,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  let  simmer  together  until  done  and  the  liquid  suffi- 
ciently reduced. 

(2704).  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  SAUTED  (Ohoux  de  Bruxelles  Sautes). 

Select  three  pounds  of  the  freshest  and  firmest  Brussels  sprouts,  having  them  of  as  uniform 
size  as  possible;  pare  and  plunge  them  into  an  untinned  vessel  full  of  boiling  water  to  cook 
green;  when  done  drain,  refresh  in  cold  water,  drain  once  more,  wipe  and  pare  again.  Put  six 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  sautoir  and  when  hot  add  the  sprouts;  season  with  salt  and  shake  them  in 
the  butter;  sprinkle  in  some  chopped  parsley,  and  if  so  desired  they  can  be  mingled  with  a  little 
veloute1  sauce  (No.  415). 


VEGETABLES.  821 

(2705),  CABBAGE  IN  BALLOTINES-STUFFED  (Ohoux  Farcis  en  Ballotines). 

Cut  each  of  two  clean  cabbages  in  half,  plunge  them  into  boiling  salted  water  and  boil  for 
fifteen  minutes;  then  drain,  refresh  and  press  out  all  the  water.  Dampen  some  pieces  of  linen  six 
by  five  inches;  lay  over  each  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork  four  by  three  inches,  and  on  this  spread  a 
blanched  cabbage  leaf,  mincing  the  heart-leaves  up  finely.  Fry  in  lard  four  ounces  of  finely 
chopped  onion,  and  one  pound  of  chopped  mushrooms;  when  the  moisture  has  been  evaporated  from 
the  latter  add  the  minced  cabbage,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  cooked 
sausage  meat,  and  half  a  pound  of  boiled  rice;  thicken  this  preparation  with  a  few  raw  egg-yolks  and 
range  it  in  the  center  of  the  spread-out  leaves;  roll  each  one  in  the  shape  of  a  sausage,  then  iu  the 
bards  of  fat  pork,  and  lastly  in  the  linen;  tie  both  ends  the  same  as  a  boned  turkey.  Lay  them 
in  a  sautoir,  cover  with  more  slices  of  fat  pork,  and  pour  in  some  unskimmed  broth  (No.  194a). 
then  let  cook  for  two  hours;  free  the  stock  from  fat,  strain  it  through  a  sieve  and  reduce  it  with  as 
much  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Unwrap  the  ballotines,  remove  the  pork  and  dress  them  in  the 
center  of  a  dish,  covering  over  with  a  third  part  of  the  sauce,  and  serving  the  remainder  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

(2706).  CABBAGE,  PEASANT  STYLE  (Ohoux  a  la  Paysanne). 

Parboil  half  a  cabbage  for  fifteen  minutes,  remove  the  core,  drain  and  braise;  when  well  done 
drain  once  more  and  suppress  the  hard  parts;  mash  the  remainder  with  a  spoon,  seasoning  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Have  a  linen  bag  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter;  fill  it  with  the 
seasoned  cabbage  and  tie  it  firmly,  pressing  it  down  tight;  lay  this  under  a  weight  to  get  thoroughly 
cold,  then  cut  it  into  even  slices-  remove  the  pieces  of  linen  and  dip  each  slice  in  beaten  egg  and 
then  in  bread  crumbs;  fry  in  clarified  butter  and  dress  in  a  circle.  To  fill  the  center  chop  up 
finely  the  other  half  of  the  cabbage,  after  blanching  it  for  ten  minutes  and  draining  very  dry;  put 
it  into  a  saucepan  with  fresh  butter,  and  fry  colorless;  season,  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  and 
let  simmer  until  thoroughly  done  and  the  liquid  reduced,  then  drain  off  the  fat  and  thicken  with  a 
little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  fresh  butter;  lay  this  inside  the  circle  as  described  above. 


(2707).  EED  OABBAGE  A  LA  MONTAKGIS  (Ohoux  Kouges  a  la  Montargis). 

Divide  two  red  cabbages  in  four  pieces,  remove  the  core  and  the  hard  stalks  from  the  leaves; 
mince  finely,  wash  and  drain.  Place  in  a  saucepan  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  half  a  pound  ot 
bacon  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  first  blanch  them,  then  let  fry  in  the  butter,  and  add  the  cab- 
bage, salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  194a)  and  a  gill  of  brandy.  Have 
six  sour  apples,  peel,  round  and  core  them  with  a  tin  tube  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  lay 
them  in  with  the  cabbage,  and  cover  the  top  with  a  buttered  paper;  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  two 
hours  and  a  half.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  remove  the  fat  and  dress  the  cabbage  in  the  center 
of  a  dish  with  the  apples  around,  arranging  a  small  Chipolata  sausage  (No.  754)  between  each  one. 

(2708).  KOHL-BABIES,  HOUSEKEEPEB'S  STYLE  (Ohoux  Eaves  a  la  Me"nagere). 
Cut  some  medium-sized  kohl-rabies  in  four  equal  parts,  or  if  very  large,  then  in  six  or 
eight;  peel  and  pare  them  into  crescent  olive  form,  obtaining  about  three  pounds  in  all.  Blanch 
these  in  boiling  salted  water,  refresh  and  drain  once  more.  Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  when  very  hot  and  cooked  to  hazel-nut  (No.  567)  lay  in  the  blanched  kohl-rabies  and 
toss  them  so  they  do  not  color;  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  let  cook,  reduce  to  a  glaze  and  when 
serving  dilute  with  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  also  adding  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a 
very  small  lump  at  a  time. 

(2709),  KOHL-BABIES,  STUFFED  (Ohoux  Eaves  Farcis). 

Shape  them  perfectly  round  and  all  of  uniform  size;  empty  out  the  insidesand  stuff  them  while 
raw,  or  else  blanch  them  first  in  boiling  salted  water  for  a  few  moments;  the  stuffing  consists  of 
godiveau  forcemeat  (No.  85),  having  truffles,  mushrooms  and  parsley,  all  chopped  up,  mixed  in  with 
it;  range  them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork  and  moisten  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404);  when 
done  drain  and  strain  the  stock,  remove  all  of  its  fat  and  reduce  it  with  as  much  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414).  Lay  the  kohl- rabies  over  the  sauce  and  serve. 


822  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2710).  CARDOONS  WITH  HALF-GLAZE  (Oardons  k  la  Demi-glace), 

Remove  the  large  strings  from  a  head  of  cardoon;  cut  the  tenderest  parts  into  four-inch 
lengths  and  throw  them  at  once  into  cold  acidulated  water,  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  water, 
also  acidulated  with  citric  acid  or  vinegar;  blanch  until  the  downy  skin  detaches,  rubbing  with  a 
cloth  and  drain  to  plunge  at  once  into  an  abundance  of  cold  water.  Pare  the  cardoon,  suppressing 
the  superficial  threads,  and  range  them  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  fat  pork;  cover  with  more  pork  and 
moisten  with  unskimmed  broth  (No.  194a)  mixed  with  a  little  white  wine;  add  the  cut-up  pulp  of  a 
lemon,  salt  and  aromatics,  cover  the  saucepan  and  finish  cooking  very  slowly.  At  the  last  moment 
drain  them  on  a  tammy,  then  on  a  cloth  and  cut  them  up  into  even  lengths  to  dress  in  a  pyramid 
on  a  dish,  covering  over  with  a  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced  with  Madeira  wine. 

Cardoons  may  be  covered  with  a  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  or  else  a  brown  sauce  (No.  414), 
having  some  poached  marrow  cut  into  large  dice  added. 

(2711).  OAKKOTS,  COLBERT  (Garottes  a  la  Colbert). 

Take  a  few  dozen  small,  new  carrots  of  uniform-size,  trim  them  pear-shaped,  blanch  for  a 
few  moments  in  salted  water,  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter,  salt,  a  pinch 
of  sugar  and  white  broth  (No.  194a);  cook  until  they  fall  to  a  glaze,  and  should  they  then  not  be 
sufficiently  tender,  remoisten  and  reduce  the  liquid  once  more;  finish  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  413),  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

(2712).  CARROTS  GLAZED  OR  WITH  FINE  HERBS  (Garottes  Glacees  ou  aux  Pines  Herbes). 

Turn  or  cut  out  with  a  spoon  (Fig.  91)  some  carrots,  shaping  them  to  resemble  olives;  blanch, 
then  saute  in  butter  with  a  little  sugar;  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a)  and  cook  slowly  until 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  and  the  moistening  reduced  the  same,  in  the  meanwhile  having  the  carrots  done; 
add  a  little  root  glaze  (No.  403)  and  then  dish  up  in  a  pyramid. 

For  Fine  Herbs  add  to  the  carrots  prepared  as  for  the  above  some  chopped  parsley  and  finely 
cut-up  chives. 

(2713).  CARROTS,  VIENNESE  STYLE  (Garottes  a  la  Viennaise). 

Scrape  some  large  carrots  and  cut  them  up  into  balls  with  a  vegetable  spoon  five-eighths  of  an 
inch  in  diameter;  blanch  them  in  salted  water  until  half  done,  then  drain,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  white  broth  (No.  194a),  salt  and  a  very  little  sugar;  finish  cooking,  letting  the  liquid  fall 
to  a  glaze,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  thicken  with  a  little  well-buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415), 
to  which  add  lemon  juice,  fine  herbs  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402). 

(2714).  CARROTS  WITH  OREAM  (Garottes  a  la  Oreme). 

Cut  some  carrots  into  inch  lengths;  from  the  red  parts  remove  cylindrical  with  a  round 
vegetable  cutter  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  blanch  until  half  done,  then  drain  and  saute* 
in  butter  with  a  little  sugar;  moisten  with  white  broth  (No.  194a)  and  put  on  to  cook;  when  ready 
to  serve  boil  with  cream  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter. 

(2715).  STDTFED  CAULIFLOWER  A  LA  BECHAMEL-BAKED  (Choux-fleurs  Farcis  a  la  Bechamel 

au  Gratin). 

Prepare,  cook  and  drain  the  cauliflower  the  same  as  for  fried  bread-crumbs  (No.  2718);  scoop 
out  the  hearts  and  fill  them  with  veal  godiveau  (No.  85),  into  which  mix  parsley  and  chives,  both 
finely  chopped.  Place  the  cauliflower  stalk  downward  on  a  buttered  dish  and  cover  over  with 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407),  into  which  mix  half  as  much  cooked  herbs  (No.  385).  Strew  the  top 
with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan,  pour  butter  over  and  push  into  a  moderate  oven  for  ten 
minutes;  baste  at  frequent  intervals  and  color  the  cauliflower;  remove  and  decorate  around  with 
heart-shaped  croutons  fried  in  butter,  then  serve. 

(2716).  CAULIFLOWER  A  LA  VILLEROI,  FRIED  AND  SAUTED  WITH  FINE  HERBS 

(Ohonx-fleurs  a  la  Villeroi,  Frits  et  Sautes  aux  Fines  Herbes). 

A  la  Villeroi. — This  is  to  be  cooked  and  drained  the  same  as  for  white  sauce  (No.  2719), 
then  covered  with  well-reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  into  which  mingle  chopped- up  fresh 


VEGETABLES.  823 

mushrooms  and  chopped  parsley;  when  thoroughly  cold  immerse  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread- 
crumbs, smooth  the  breading  and  fry  it  a  golden  color;  drain,  salt  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin, 
laying  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top. 

Fried. — Have  the  cauliflowers  cooked  and  well  drained,  then  dip  each  piece  in  beaten  eggs,  roll 
in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color. 

Sauted  with  Fine  Herbs. — After  the  cauliflowers  are  boiled  and  drained  the  same  as  for  the 
above,  divide  in  flowerets  and  saute  in  butter,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2717).  CAULIFLOWERS  WITH  CHEESE— BAKED  (Choux-fleurs  au  Fromage  Gratings). 

Suppress  the  hard  parts  from  some  cauliflowers,  divide  in  small  flowerets  and  cook  in  salted 
water.  When  they  are  tender  and  drained  range  them  in  layers  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  little 
reduced  bechamel  (No.  409);  bestrew  with  grated  parmesan  and  pour  over  some  butter;  give  them 
a  dome  shape  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  thick  bechamel,  finished  with  grated  parmesan  and  butter; 
dredge  evenly  with  more  parmesan  and  color  nicely  in  the  oven  for  twelve  minutes. 

(2718).  CAULIFLOWERS  WITH  PRIED  BREAD-CRUMBS  (Ohoux-fleurs  a  la  Mie  de  Pain  Frite). 
Divide  some  cauliflowers  into  separate  flowerets  all  of  uniform  size;  pare  the  stalks  to  a  point, 
wash  and  drop  them  into  a  saucepanful  of  hot  water,  then  boil  the  liquid  very  slowly.  When  the 
pieces  are  three-quarters  cooked  salt  the  water  and  withdraw  the  saucepan  to  allow  them  to  finish 
cooking  much  slower;  in  this  way  they  remain  firmer;  drain,  dress  the  cauliflowers  and  cover  over 
with  butter  having  fried  bread-crumbs  added  to  it. 

(2719).  CAULIFLOWERS,  BROCCOLI,  OR  SEA  KALE,  WITH  WHITE,  BUTTER  OR  CREAM 
SAUCE  (Ohoux-fleurs,  Brocolis  et  Ohoux  de  Mer  a  la  Sauce  Blanche,  au  Beurre  a  la  Creme). 
For  serving  whole  with  sauces  the  cauliflowers  should  be  chosen  very  white  and  close;  cut  off 
the  bottom  of  the  stalks,  clean  the  inner  parts  well,  removing  the  outer  peel  and  leaves  covering 
the  stalk,  then   lay  them   in  a  well-tinned   and  very   clean  saucepan  containing  hot  water  and  a 
little  butter;  remove  to  the  side  of  the  range  to  cook  slowly  until  three-quarters  done,  then  salt  the 
water  and  finish  cooking.     Dress  on  a  folded  napkin,  the  stalk  end  downward,  and  serve  apart 
either  a  white  sauce  (No.  562),  a  butter  sauce  (No.  440),  or  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454). 

Broccoli,  a  long-stalked  cauliflower,  can  be  prepared  the  same  way,  also  sea  kale;  the 
only  difference  to  be  observed  is  that  these  must  be  served  with  slices  of  toast,  buttered  with  fresh 
butter. 

(2720).  CELERY  WITH  BECHAMEL  AND  CROUTONS  (Celeri  Bechamel  aux  Croutons). 

Cut  into  large  squares,  each  one  inch  in  size,  the  yellow  stalks  of  a  head  of  celery;  blanch 
them  in  water,  drain  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  white  broth  (No.  194a),  an  ounce  of 
butter  and  a  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  sugar;  cook  so  that  the  liquid  reduces,  and  when  the  celery 
is  done  add  to  it  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  some  grated  nutmeg  and  salt.  Just  when 
serving  incorporate  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  pour  into  a  vegetable  dish  and  garnish  around 
with  bread  croutons  shaped  like  small  hearts  (Tig.  40)  and  fried  in  butter. 

(2721).  CELERY  STALKS  WITH  HALF-GLAZE,  ESPAGNOLE  AND  MARROW,  OR  VELOUTE 
SAUCE  (Pieds  de  Oeleri  a  la  Demi-glace  a  la  Sauce  Espagnole  a  la  Moelle  ou  au  Veloute'. 
Suppress  the  outer  hard  stalks  from  eight  or  ten  tender,  but  not  too  large  celery  heads;  cut  the 
remainder  into  four  or  five-inch  lengths  and  pare  the  roots  to  a  point,     Wash  them  carefully  and 
blanch   for  twenty  minutes;  refresh  and  range  them  in  a  saucepan  to  cover  with  unskimmed 
broth  (No.  194a);  lay  a  buttered  paper  or  a  thin  slice  of  fat  pork  on  the  top  and  cook  very  slowly. 
Drain,  wipe  well,  pare  and  dress  them  on  a  dish;  mask  over  entirely  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No. 
413)  reduced  with  Madeira  wine,  or  else  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  with  marrow,  or  a  veloute 
sauce  (No.  415)  reduced  with  mushroom  essence  (No.  392)  and  buttered  when  ready  to  serve. 

(2722).  OELERIAC  MIRABEAU  OR  A  LA  VILLEROI  (Celeri-rave  Mirabeau  ou  a  la  Villeroi). 

Mirdbeau. — Peel  the  celeriac,  cut  them  either  into  balls  with  a  large  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91) 
or  in  the  shape  of  cloves  or  crescents;  blanch  in  salted  water,  drain  and  place  in  a  deep  buttered 
sautoir;  cover  with  broth  (No.  194a)  and  finish  cooking  while  glazing;  dress  and  pour  over  some 
Mirabeau  sauce  (No.  500). 


824  THE    EPICUREAN. 

A  la  Villeroi. — Cut  the  celeriac  into  four  pieces;  pare  them  like  cloves  of  garlic,  having  one 
pound  in  all;  blanch  in  salted  water,  drain,  place  in  a  saucepan,  adding  half  a  pint  of  stock  (No. 
194a),  and  a  little  sugar;  cook,  drain  once  more,  and  when  cold  cover  over  with  a  Villeroi  sauce 
(No.  560)  with  mushrooms  and  chopped  parsley;  lay  on  a  baking  sheet  to  cool,  after  which  pare  off 
the  surplus  sauce,  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  dress  on  a  folded 
napkin,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  leaves  on  top. 


(2723).  OEPES,  PROVENQAL  STYLE  (Oepes  a  la  Provengale). 

Wash  and  wipe  some  cepes  heads  after  suppressing  the  stalks;  split  them  in  two  through  their 
thickness  and  fry  in  oil  over  a  brisk  fire,  with  some  chopped  onions,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  bay  leaf, 
seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  their  moisture  has  been  reduced  add  a  little  reduced  es- 
pagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  boil  up  once  or  twice  and  finish  with  chopped 
parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Take  out  the  garlic  and  bayleaf,  dish  them  up  and  surround  with  croutons 
of  bread  (No.  51),  fried  in  oil. 

(2724).  OEPES  BAKED  WITH  OKEAM  (Oepes  Gratings  k  la  Oreme). 

Suppress  the  stalks  from  some  clean  cepes;  divide  the  heads  and  salt  over,  flour  them  briskly 
and  put  them  into  a  sautoir  with  hot  butter,  moisten  with  a  little  good  raw  cream,  adding  chopped 
onions  and  parsley  and  a  bunch  of  fennel;  finish  cooking  very  slowly  while  covered  for  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  then  remove  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  and  thicken  the  gravy  with  some 
good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  let  this  reduce  without  ceasing  to  stir  and  when  the  sauce  becomes 
succulent  add  to  it  the  cepes  and  let  cook  for  two  minutes.  Pour  the  stew  into  a  vegetable  dish, 
bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  quick  oven;  serve  the  cepes  in  this  same 
dish. 

(2725).  OEPES  MINCED  IN  OEOUSTADES  (Oepes  EmincSs  en  Oroustades). 

Trim  some  bread  croutons  into  ovals  three  inches  long  by  two  inches  wide  and  half  an  inch 
thick;  slit  them  all  around  an  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  edges  and  fry  in  clarified  butter;  re- 
move the  tops  and  empty  them  completely.  Peel  some  cepes,  cut  them  in  two  through  their  thick- 
ness, salt  over  and  leave  them  for  twenty  minutes,  then  mince  them  finely  and  fry  in  butter;  drain 
this  off  and  transfer  them  to  a  saucepan,  adding  some  sour  cream;  finish  cooking,  then  mingle  in  a 
little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  add  a  small  bit  of  finely  cut-up  green 
fennel  and  fill  the  croastades  with  this  preparation;  serve  at  once,  very  hot. 


(2726).  OEPES  STUFFED  (Cepes  Farcis). 

Choose  cepes  of  even  size  one  inch  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  firm  and 
fresh;  remove  the  stalks  and  scoop  out  the  heads  from  the  stalk  end  with  a  vegetable  spoon 
(Fig.  91),  then  peel  and  salt  over;  chop  up  the  stalks  and  parings,  mix  with  them  some  fat 
pork  and  cooked  ham,  both  chopped,  bread-crumb  panada  (No.  121),  chopped  parsley  with  a  clove 
of  garlic,  a  few  raw  egg-yolks,  salt  and  pepper.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  after  fill  the  hollow  spaces 
with  the  prepared  dressing  and  strew  with  bread-crumbs;  range  them  in  a  sautoir,  pour  over 
butter  or  oil  and  cook  very  slowly  for  one  hour  in  a  slack  oven,  while  covered;  serve  with  their 
own  stock,  thickened  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  or  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409). 


(2727).  CHESTNUTS  WITH  GKAVY  (Marrons  au  Jus). 

Remove  the  shells  from  several  dozen  large  chestnuts,  then  scald  so  to  be  able  to  peel  off  the  red 
skins;  put  them  into  a  buttered  flat  saucepan,  salt  and  moisten  to  their  height  with  good  broth 
(No.  194a);  boil  the  liquid  and  withdraw  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  fire  to  have  the  chestnuts 
cook  while  remaining  whole.  When  tender  the  moisture  should  be  entirely  reduced;  glaze  with 
a  brush  before  serving. 


VEGKETABJL.ES.  825 

(2728).  CHICORY  TIMBALES  (Timbales  de  ChicorSe). 

Have  some  chicory  prepared  the  same  as  for  cream  (No.  2729),  strain  it  through  a  sieve;  put 
one  pound  of  this  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  finely  chopped  cooked  mushrooms,  seasoning 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  mix  in  singly  four  whole  eggs,  two  yolks  and  lastly  a  gill  of  cream. 
Decorate  some  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  or  a  larger  one,  with  fanciful  cuts  of  truffles  and 
tongue;  fill  these  with  the  preparation  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  on  the  fire;  pour  in  boiling  water 
to  reach  to  half  their  height,  boil  and  finish  poaching  in  a  slack  oven;  unmold  and  serve  separately 
a  Hungarian  sauce  (No.  479). 

(2729).  OHICOKY  WITH  OEEAM  (Ohicor^e  a  la  Oreme). 

Pick  eight  chicory  heads,  suppress  all  the  green  leaves,  wash  well,  and  cut  the  bottoms  into  a 
cross;  plunge  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  let  cook  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes;  refresh, 
drain,  press  out  all  the  moisture,  and  pick  over  carefully  to  remove  any  small  straws  or  other 
impurities  that  may  be  found  among  the  leaves,  then  chop  up  finely.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan, put  in  the  chicory,  and  dry  it  over  a  brisk  fire  for  ten  minutes  without  ceasing  to  stir;  add  a 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour,  some  salt,  nutmeg,  sugar  and  rich  cream;  when  very  hot  and  ready 
to  serve  incorporate  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter.  If  to  be  served  as  a  vegetable  pour  it  into 
a  vegetable  dish,  and  surround  with  bread  croutons  (No.  51)  fried  in  butter. 

(2730).  CORN  ON  THE  COB-BOILED  (Mai's  Bouilli  en  Tige). 

Select  white  and  close-grained  corn;  open  the  husks  without  tearing,  and  remove  the  silk  found 
between  these  and  the  corn;  brush  over,  and  close  up  the  husks,  tying  them  at  the  ends,  or  remove 
them  entirely  from  the  stalk  end,  either  way  being  optional,  then  cut  the  stalks  off  straight  at 
both  ends.  Boil  them  in  water,  to  which  add  a  quarter  as  much  milk  and  salt.  They  take  about 
twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  to  cook.  Dress  in  a  napkin,  serving  butter  at  the  same  time. 

(2731).  CORN  OUT  UP,  SUOOOTASH  AND  CORN  PANCAKES  (Mais  Coupe",  "  Succotash,"  et  Crepes 

de  Mai's), 

Cut-up  Corn. — Boil  the  corn  without  the  leaves  the  same  as  for  on  the  cob  (No.  2730);  split 
the  grains  with  a  knife  through  the  center  their  entire  length;  press  down  forcibly  with  the  back 
of  a  knife  to  extract  all  the  inside  parts  without  the  skin;  season  in  a  pan  with  salt,  pepper  and 
fresh  butter;  toss  well,  and  serve  very  hot  in  a  vegetable  dish, 

Succotash. — Use  corn  that  has  been  cut  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  having  as  much 
lima  beans  or  string  beans.  Saute  both  corn  and  beans  together  in  butter,  adding  salt  and  pepper. 
The  succotash  can  be  thickened  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  or  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409). 

Corn  Pancakes. — The  same  preparation  as  for  ordinary  unsweetened  pancakes,  mixing  in  as 
much  cut-up  and  chopped  corn.  Make  pancakes  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  color  well,  and  serve 
them  very  hot. 

(2732).  CUCUMBERS  PRIED,  BREADED  ENGLISH  STYLE  AND  FRIED  A  LA  VILLEROI  (Oon- 
combres  Frits,  Pane's  a  1'Anglaise  et  Frits  a  la  Villeroi). 

Fried. — Cut  some  peeled  cucumbers  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  by  one  and  three-quarters 
inches  in  diameter;  empty  out  the  center  seed  parts  with  a  three-quarter  inch  diameter  tube;  salt 
over  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain,  wipe,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color  in  very 
hot  frying  fat. 

Fried  Breaded  English  Style. — Cut  the  cucumbers  in  two-inch  lengths  and  then  once  across 
in  the  center;  peel,  remove  the  inner  seeds,  round  the  corners,  and  cook  them  in  salted  water. 
Drain,  wipe,  immerse  in  beaten  eggs,  bread-crumb  English  style,  and  fry  to  a  nice  color,  having 
fennel  sauce  (No.  463),  served  apart. 

Fried  a  la  Villeroi. — Prepare  and  cook  the  cucumbers  the  same  as  the  glazed  ones  (No.  2733), 
and  cover  with  cold  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560);  place  on  a  baking  sheet  to  cool;  take  them  up  with  a 
thin  knife;  dip  each  piece  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  fry  to  a  good  color,  and  dress  on  a  folded 
napkin. 


826  TFLE    EPICUREAN. 

(2733).  CUCUMBERS  GLAZED  (Ooncombres  GlacSs). 

Split  some  cucumbers  crosswise  into  two-inch  pieces,  having  them  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diame- 
ter, and  each  of  these  lengthways  and  across  to  obtain  four  quarters;  peel  and  remove  the  seeds; 
pare  them  into  the  shape  of  cloves,  add  garlic,  and  cook  in  salted  water;  drain,  wipe  on  a  cloth,  and 
put  them  in  a  thin  sautoir  with  melted  butter  to  reduce  their  humidity,  then  pour  off  the  butter, 
and  moisten  with  some  gravy  (No.  404),  letting  this  fall  to  a  glaze. 

(2734).  CUCUMBERS  STUFFED  (Concombres  Farcis). 

Peel  the  cucumbers  and  cut  them  in  inch  lengths;  empty  each  piece  with  a  vegetable  spoon 
(Fig.  91),  retaining  a  quarter  of  an  inch  at  the  bottom;  blanch,  then  cook  in  consomme  (No.  189)  and 
drain.  Fry  a  little  onion  in  butter,  add  some  chopped  mushrooms,  evaporate  their  humidity,  then 
throw  in  some  chopped  truffles  and  parsley,  also  a  little  gravy  (No.  404);  simmer  and  add  soaked 
and  well-pressed  bread-crumbs  and  raw  egg-yolks.  Stuff  the  cucumbers  with  this,  stand  them  on 
a  dish,  bestrew  the  cucumbers  with  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  grated  parmesan,  pour  over  melted 
butter  and  finish  cooking  brown  in  a  moderate  oven.  Dress  in  a  vegetable  dish  on  a  little  half- 
glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(2735).  EGGPLANT  A  LA  DUPERRET-BROILED  (Aubergines  Grilles  a  la  Duperret). 

Peel  some  eggplants,  cut  them  up  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  each  one  to  be 
three  inches  in  diameter;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  let  marinate  for  two  hours, 
then  drain  off  and  dry;  baste  over  with  oil  and  broil  them  on  a  slow  fire;  dress  with  maitre-d'hotel 
butter  (No.  581)  poured  over. 

Eggplant  can  also  be  prepared  by  cutting  it  up  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and 
three  inches  in  diameter;  score  and  besprinkle  with  fine  salt;  leave  for  one  hour,  then  wipe  dry  and 
season  with  salt  and  black  or  red  pepper,  pour  over  a  little  oil,  and  turn  them  frequently  before 
broiling  to  a  fine  color  on  a  slow  fire.  Fry  a  little  well-chopped  shallot,  mushroom  and  parsley  in 
butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  lemon  juice.  Dish 
up  the  eggplant  and  pour  the  sauce  over  after  incorporating  a  small  piece  of  fi-esh  butter. 

(2736).  EGGPLANT  IN  CASES  A  LA  MORTON  (Aubergines  en  Caisses  a  la  Morton). 

Butter  some  cases,  either  of  paper  or  china;  cover  the  bottom  of  each  with  a  slice  of  peeled 
eggplant  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  around  with  small  bands  of  the  same,  exactly  like  an 
apple  charlotte;  cut  up  the  remainder  of  the  plant  in  squares,  and  fry  them  colorless  in  butter, 
then  drain.  Chop  up  as  much  cooked  chicken  meat  as  eggplant,  and  mix  both  together  with 
mushrooms,  truffles  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  adding  a  very 
little  thick  allemande  sauce  (No.  407).  With  this  preparation  fill  the  cases,  smooth  the  tops  and 
bestrew  with  bread-crumbs;  pour  a  little  oil  over  and  push  into  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  drain 
off  the  fat,  cover  over  with  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  serve. 

(2737).    EGGPLANT  A  LA  ROBERTSON  (Aubergines  a  la  Robertson). 

Have  some  peeled  eggplants  cut  in  half-inch  diameter  slices,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  and  leave 
them  to  marinate  for  twenty  minutes,  then  wipe  and  fry  in  oil  over  a  brisk  fire;  color  them  to  a 
light  golden  brown,  season  and  drain;  dress  in  a  circle,  intercalating  a  layer  of  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  409)  between  each  slice;  fill  the  center  of  the  circle  with  more  eggplant,  cooked  smothered  with 
a  piece  of  butter,  then  pressed  through  a  sieve.  Cover  the  whole  with  thick  bechamel,  and  scatter 
on  white  bread-crumbs  and  a  little  grated  parmesan;  pour  over  fresh  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot 
oven,  serving  as  quickly  as  it  assumes  a  fine  color. 

(2738).  EGGPLANT  STUFFED  AND  BAKED  (Aubergines  Farcies  Gratings). 

Divide  some  small  eggplants,  each  one  in  two,  without  peeling  them;  score  and  fry,  then 
drain  and  empty  out  the  center  with  a  spoon,  leaving  a  layer  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  against  the 
peel.  Chop  up  the  parts  that  have  been  removed,  adding  as  much  soaked  and  well-pressed 
bread-crumbs,  and  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic;  cook  the  preparation  for  a  few  moments,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  remove  from  the  fire  until  it  loses  its  greatest  heat,  then  finish 


VEGETABLES.  827 

with  a  few  raw  egg-yolks  and  chopped  parsley.  Fill  the  interior  of  the  halved  eggplants  with  this, 
smooth  the  tops  and  range  them  on  a  baking  sheet;  pour  over  plenty  of  oil  and  cook  in  a 
slack  oven.  When  a  fine  color  dress  them  on  an  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  reduced  with  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  and  run  through  a  fine  sieve. 

(2739).  EGGPLANT  FRIED  (Aubergines  Frites). 

Peel  some  eggplants;  cut  them  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  slices,  and  from  these  remove 
round  pieces  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  using  a  pastry  cutter  for  the  purpose;  roll  them 
in  flour  and  then  fry  to  a  fine  color,  or  they  can  be  fried  plain  without  any  flour. 

Another  Way  is  to  cut  peeled  eggplant  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  slices  and  divide  these 
into  squares;  salt  over  and  drain  for  fifteen  minutes  on  a  sieve;  wipe  on  a  cloth  and  flour  them 
quickly,  a  few  at  a  time;  drop  them  into  very  hot  frying  fat,  and  when  done  and  of  a  fine  color 
drain,  salt  and  dress  either  kind  on  a  napkin. 

Breaded  Eggplant. — Cut  each  slice  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  remove  from  them  rounds  two 
and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter;  dip  them  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  egg,  and  lastly  in  bread- 
crumbs; smooth  the  breading  with  a  knife  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  drain  and  dress  on  a  napkin. 

(2740).  ENDIVES  OR  ESOAROLES  GLAZED  (Endives  ou  Escaroles  Glace"es). 
Wipe  the  endives  well,  cut  them  of  an  even  length  and  range  them  in  a  flat  buttered  saucepan; 
season  and  baste  over  with  butter;  cook  on  a  slow  fire  while  covered  and  with  no  other  moistening, 
turning  them  over  once  only.  At  the  last  moment  drain  off  the  endives;  arrange  them  on  a  dish 
and  unglaze  the  saucepan  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  or  light  bechamel  (No.  409),  then 
strain  the  sauce  over. 

(2741).  GREEN  PEAS-MANGETOUT-A  LA  FLEURETTE  (Petits  Pois  Mangetout  k  la  Fleurette). 

These  are  prepared  with  "mangetout"  peas,  a  species  of  very  tender  peas,  the  pods  of  which 
are  eaten  as  well  as  the  contents.  String  the  threads  on  both  sides  of  the  pod  from  some  "mange- 
tout"  peas  after  they  are  partly  cooked;  drain  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  some  fresh  cream; 
let  simmer  until  the  peas  are  entirely  cooked,  and  just  when  serving  season  with  salt,  a  little  sugar, 
finely  cut-up  chives  and  a  dash  of  vinegar.  They  can  be  thickened  with  egg-yolks,  cream  and 
fresh  butter  just  before  serving. 

(2742).  GREEN  PEAS,  ENGLISH  STYLE,  AND  PUREE  OF  GREEN  PEAS  (Petits  Pois  a  1'Anglaise 

et  Pure"e  de  Pois  Verts). 

Boil  some  green  peas  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel  containing  boiling  salted  water  and  a  few 
mint  leaves;  when  cooked,  drain  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  salt,  sugar  and  fresh  butter, 
divided  in  small  pats,  mixing  it  into  the  peas  without  stirring  them.  Dress  in  a  vegetable  dish  and 
lay  small  bits  of  butter  on  top. 

Puree  of  Green  Peas. — To  obtain  a  puree  pound  the  cooked  and  drained  peas  in  a  mortar, 
adding  some  very  thick  bechamel  (No.  409);  season  with  salt  and  sugar,  press  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  return  to  the  saucepan  to  boil;  stir  in  some  fine  butter  at  the  last  moment. 

(2743).  GREEN  PEAS,  FRENCH  STYLE  (Petits  Pois  a  la  Frangaise). 

Put  one  pint  ot  fresh-shelled  green  peas  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  cold  water,  stirring  in  a 
piece  of  butter;  add  salt  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  cook  with  the  lid  on.  When  sufficiently  done  and 
the  liquid  reduced  add  a  small  piece  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579);  then  take  from  the  fire  and  finish 
by  incorporating  a  large  piece  of  butter  divided  in  small  bits.  The  peas  should  be  well  buttered 
and  thickened  so  that  the  liquid  be  entirely  absorbed. 

With  Sugar. — Prepare  them  exactly  the  same,  only  adding  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar. 

(2744).  GREEN  PEAS,  HOUSEKEEPER'S  STYLE  (Petits  Pois  a  la  Menagere). 
Take  half  a  pound  of  lean  unsmoked  bacon  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  blanch,  drain  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter;  fry  the  bacon  colorless,  then  add  a  spoonful  of 
flour  and  when  this  begins  to  brown  moisten  with  a  quart  of  stock  (No.  194a);  add  three  quarts  of 
shelled  fresh  peas,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  three  green  onions.  When  the  peas  are  done  remove 
the  parsley  and  onion,  drain  off  the  stock,  thicken  it  with  a  little  kneaded  butter  (No.  579)  and  pass  it 


828  THE    EPICUREAN. 

through  a  sieve;  put  it  back  with  the  peas,  boil  both  together  again  and  remove  from  the  fire- 
thicken  with  egg-yolks  diluted  in  cream,  at  the  same  time  incorporating  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

(2745).  GEEEN  PEAS,  PAEISIAN  STYLE-SMALL  (Petits  Pois  fins  a  la  Parisienne). 

Cook  some  small  green  peas  in  a  pan  or  small  copper  vessel  with  salted  water,  a  large  green 
onion  and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  as  soon  as  done,  take  out  the  parsley  and  onion,  drain  through  a 
colander  without  refreshing  and  put  the  peas  into  a  sautoir  with  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  nutmeg, 
thickening  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415);  take  the  peas  from  the  fire,  toss  well  and  dress 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  garnishing  around  writh  puff  paste  croutons. 

(2746).  GEEEN  PEAS  WITH  BEAISED  LETTUCES  (Petits  Pois  aux  Laitues  Braisees). 

Blanch  and  braise  fifteen  lettuce  heads;  drain  them  to  pare,  fold  and  trim  evenly;  put  them  back 
into  the  sautoir  and  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  half-glaze  (No.  400)  so  as  to  be  able  to  heat  them  up. 
At  the  last  moment  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  alternating  each  one  with  a  thin  bread-crumb 
crust  fried  in  butter  and  then  glazed  with  a  brush.  In  the  hollow  of  the  circle  dress  a  garnishing 
of  small  green  peas  cooked  in  salted  water  and  simply  finished  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

(2747).  GEEEN  PEAS  WITH  SHEEDDED  LETTUCES  (Petits  Pois  aux  Laitues  Oisele"es). 

Put  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  green  peas,  recently  shelled,  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tender 
lettuce  heads  shredded  up  coarsely,  one  small  onion,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  salt,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and 
sufficient  cold  water  to  reach  to  about  their  height;  cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  for  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes  on  a  hot  fire.  Suppress  the  parsley  and  onion,  thicken  the  liquid  with  a  small 
piece  of  butter  kneaded  with  flour  (No.  579),  and  finish  off  the  fire  with  a  lump  of  fresh  butter 
divided  in  small  pats. 

(2748),  HOP  STALKS  OE  POINTS  PEIED  AND  WITH  VIENNESE  SAUCE  (Pointes  on  Tiges  de 

Houblon  Frites  et  a  la  Sauce  Viennaise). 

Select  the  white  parts  of  some  young  hops;  these  should  be  picked  from  the  15th  of 
May  to  the  15th  of  June;  blanch  them  in  boiling  water  with  salt,  drain  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  to 
season  with  salt  and  lemon  juice,  roll  in  rice  flour,  dip  them  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  not  too  thick, 
plunge  into  hot  fat,  and  when  done  drain,  salt  and  serve. 

Viennese.  — After  the  hops  have  been  cooked  in  salted  water,  drain  well  and  place  them  in  a 
vegetable  dish,  covering  over  with  Viennese  sauce  (No.  558). 

(2749).  JEEUSALEM  AETIOHOKES  A  LA  SALAMANDEE  (Topinambours  a  la  Salamandre). 

Pare  Jerusalem  artichokes  into  three-quarter  inch  rounds,  or  else  in  the  shape  of  a  pigeon's  egg; 
cook  in  salted  water,  drain  and  saute  in  butter  without  letting  attain  a  color.  Prepare  a  puree  by 
placing  some  peeled  Jerusalem  artichokes  in  a  saucepan  to  boil;  drain  when  done,  and  cover  over 
with  a  damp  cloth;  dry  in  the  oven,  then  press  through  a  sieve.  Return  this  puree  to  the  sauce- 
pan; season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  fresh  butter  and  egg-yolks,  and  form  it  into  a  border  inside  a  dish, 
either  pushed  through  a  channeled  socket  pocket  or  else  modeled  with  the  hand;  lay  the  sauted 
Jerusalem  artichokes  in  the  center,  strew  grated  parmesan  over,  cover  with  some  rather  thin  cream 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  411),  and  then  more  parmesan;  color  in  a  brisk  oven,  serving  it  immediately 
after  it  is  baked  to  a  golden  brown. 

(2750).  LENTILS  WITH  BACON  (Lentilles  au  Petit  Salel 

Soak' a  pound  and  a  half  of  lentils  for  six  hours,  after  picking  and  washing  them  in  several 
waters;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  unsalted  and  blanched  lean  breast  of  bacon, 
some  carrots,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  an  onion  with  one  clove  stuck 
in  it,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  stock  (No.  194a);  boil,  skim,  and  simmer  until  thoroughly  done,  and  after 
removing  the  carrots,  parsley,  onion  and  pork,  drain  off  the  stock,  toss  the  lentils  in  butter,  and  sea- 


VEGETABLES.  829 

son  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice,  or  they  can  be  sauted  with  a  little  alle- 
mande  sauce  (No.  407).  Dress  and  surround  with  well-pared  slices  of  the  bacon,  and  over  this 
pour  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  then  serve. 

(2751).  LETTUCES  CHOPPED  WITH  CKOUTONS  (Laitues  Haohfea  aux  Croutons). 

Pick  and  pare  nicely  some  lettuce  heads  by  removing  the  green  leaves  from  the  bottom  of  the 
stalk;  detach  all  the  leaves  separately,  and  wash  them  in  several  changes  of  water,  then  blanch, 
refresh  and  drain;  press  down  well  to  extract  the  liquid;  pick  over  to  remove  all  straws  and 
other  impurities  that  may  be  attached  to  the  lettuce,  then  chop  it  up  finely,  and  lay  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  piece  of  butter;  dry  over  the  fire,  and  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  adding  a  pinch  of 
flour;  moisten  with  some  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  and  then  dress.  Surround  the  lettuce  with  croutons 
fried  in  butter.  The  gravy  may  be  replaced  by  cream  and  the  flour  by  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  or 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Cos  lettuce  can  be  prepared  and  served  the  same  way. 

(2752).  LETTUCES  STUFFED  AND  FEIED  (Laitues  Farcies  et  Frites). 

Pare  and  wash  some  lettuce  heads  in  several  changes  of  water,  blanch  them  in  a  copper 
basin  and  cook  in  boiling,  salted  water  for  twenty  minutes;  drain,  refresh  and  press  out  the 
liquid  from  each  one  separately.  Spread  them  on  a  cloth,  open  the  leaves,  and  fill  each  lettuce 
with  a  forcemeat  ball  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  prepared  as  follows:  Take  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  cooked  chicken  meat,  the  same  of  cooked  ham,  the  same  of  cooked  mushrooms,  and  add 
a  pound  of  veal  udder,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  soaked  and  pressed-out  bread-crumbs,  salt,  pepper, 
chopped  parsley,  minced  chives  and  five  egg-yolks,  the  whole  to  be  well  pounded  in  a  mortar. 
Enclose  the  forcemeat  ball  in  the  lettuce.  Wrap  each  of  these  in  a  slice  of  fat  pork,  braise  Tor  one 
hour,  drain  and  dip  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  either  whole  or  cut  in  two,  fry  to  a  fine  color,  and 
serve  with  a  half  -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  apart. 

(2753).  LETTUCES  WITH  HALF-GLAZE  SAUCE-STUFFED  (Laitues  Farcies  a  la  Sauce 

Demi-Glace). 

Blanch  some  pared  and  well-washed  lettuces  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes;  drain  on  a  sieve,  and 
press  them  singly  to  extract  all  the  water,  then  double  them  over  and  range  them  in  a  sautoir 
lined  with  fat  pork;  season  and  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  cook 
for  one  hour  on  a  slow  fire.  Drain  the  lettuces  once  more,  open  them  and  stuff  with  veal  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  92),  closing  them  up  again  carefully;  return  to  a  clean  sautoir  one  beside  the  other 
and  pour  over  a  little  gravy  (No.  404);  cook  once  more  for  twenty  minutes  on  a  slow  fire,  drain  and 
shape  them  prettily.  Dress  on  a  dish  in  a  circle,  and  cover  over  with  a  little  half-glaze  sauce 
(No.  41  B). 

(2754).  LETTUCES  WITH  THICKENED  GRAVY-BRAISED  (Laitues  Braises  au  Jus  Li®. 

Trim  some  lettuce  heads  by  removing  the  green  leaves  from  the  stalks;  pare  these  stalks  to  a 
point,  wash  the  lettuces  in  several  waters,  changing  it  each  time,  and  then  blanch  for  ten  minutes 
in  a  copper  basin  with  boiling  salted  water;  drain  on  a  sieve,  press  each  one  separately  to  ex- 
tract all  the  liquid,  and  fold  them  lengthwise  in  two,  wrapping  each  one  in  a  thin  slice  of  fat 
pork  tied  on  with  a  thin  string.  Range  them  in  a  sautoir,  braise  in  a  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419) 
and  broth  (No.  194a)  half  of  each,  and  cover  with  buttered  paper;  let  cook  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter 
on  a  slow  fire  or  in  the  oven,  being  careful  to  baste  occasionally  during  the  operation.  Drain  the 
lettuces,  dress  them  in  a  circle;  strain  the  stock,  remove  its  fat  and  reduce  it  well  with  a  little 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  pour  a  third  part  of  this  over  the  lettuces  and  serve  the  remainder 
separately. 


(2755).  MACEDOINE  A  LA  MONTIGNY  (MacMolne  a  la  Montigny). 

Cut  carrots  into  small  quarter-inch  cylindrical,  turnips  into  five-sixteenths  inch  in  diameter 
balls,  string  beans  into  lozenges;  also  have  small  flageolet  beans  and  peas.  Blanch  and  cook  each 
vegetable  separately,  drain,  fry  together  colorless  in  butter,  and  mingle  in  a  good  soubise  sauce 
(No.  543),  thickening  when  ready  to  use  with  a  little  fresh  butter  and  seasoning.  Bread-crumb  and 
egg  over  some  small  teaspoon  chicken  quenelles  (No.  155),  fry  them  in  clarified  butter,  drain  and 
range  them  around  the  dressed  macedoine. 


830  THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  549. 

(2756).  MUSHKOOMS  A  LA  EAYNAL— MOUSSEEONS  (Champignons  Mousserons  a  la  Eaynal). 

Prepare  a  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  croustade,  having  it  broad  and  rather  high;  place  it  on 
a  baking  sheet  and  fill  it  with  a  preparation  made  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  mushrooms  cooked 
for  five  minutes  in  a  little  butter  and  broth  (No.  194a);  season  with  salt,  then  drain;  when  they 
are  done  cut  them  up  finely  and  add  the  pieces  to  a  chicken  puree  (No.  713),  having  it  the  consistency 
of  a  thick  sauce,  mixing  in  some  raw  egg-yolks.  Push  the  filled  croustade  into  the  oven  and  let  cook 
without  browning.  Have  prepared  a  dozen  mushroom  heads,  each  one  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diam- 
eter, suppress  the  stalks,  scoop  out  the  inside  and  chop  up  the  fragments  and  stalks  very  fine; 
fry  them  in  butter  until  quite  dry,  add  lemon  juice  and  let  cool;  mix  this  with  the  same  quantity 
of  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  86)  and  chopped  parsley,  season  well  and  use  this  to  fill  the  mushroom 
heads,  forming  them  slightly  rounded  on  top;  lay  them  on  a  baking  pan,  scatter  bread-crumbs  over 
and  pour  on  some  butter;  slip  a  little  broth  into  the  bottom  and  place  in  the  oven  for  half  an 
hour;  dress  these  mushrooms  on  top  of  the  croustade  and  serve. 

(2757).  MUSHEOOMS  A  LA  DUMAS— OEONGES  (Champignons  Oronges  a  la  Dumas). 
Kemove  the  skin  from  some  oronges;  mince  finely  and  fry  in  oil;  when  the  moisture  has  all 
evaporated,  season  and  drain  in  a  colander.  Put  some  fresh  oil  in  the  pan,  add  to  it  parsley  and  a 
clove  of  garlic  and  afterward  the  drained  oronges  with  the  addition  of  a  little  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper;  dress  on  a  baking  dish,  dredge  over  bread-crumbs  to  cover  and  push  into  the  oven.  Turn 
eighteen  whole  mushroom  oronges,  having  them  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter;  chop  up 
the  stalks  with  the  removed  parts  from  the  inside.  Have  a  sautoir  on  the  fire,  set  into  it  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter  with  as  much  oil;  in  this  fry  colorless  four  finely  chopped  and  blanched 
shallots,  a  clove  of  garlic,  the  chopped' oronges  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley; 
when  there  is  no  more  moisture,  add  half  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414).  Remove  the  garlic, 
stuff  the  whole  oronges  with  this  preparation,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  butter  over  and 
place  them  in  a  baking  pan ;  moisten  with  mushroom  liquor  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes,  and  garnish  the  baked  preparation  around  with  these. 

(2758).  MUSHEOOMS  A  LA  EIVEEA— MOEILS  (Champignons  Morilles  a  la  Eivera). 
Select  large-sized  morils;  cut  off  the  stalks,  wash  well  and  throw  them  into  a  saucepanful  of 
tepid  water;  leave  to  soak  for  half  an  hour,  then  take  them  up,  one  by  one,  and  rub  them  several 
times  through  the  hands,  being  careful  not  to  break  them  and  changing  the  water  each  time  so  as 
to  remove  all  the  adhering  sand,  then  drain.  Cut  some  lean  ham  into  one-eighth  inch  dice  pieces, 
fry  in  butter,  add  the  morils  and  toss  both  together,  then  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  good  sherry 
and  a  little  Malaga;  season  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Fry  some  sweet  Spanish  peppers  in 
oil;  when  done  and  well  drained,  add  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  lemon  juice.  Dress  the 
morils  In  the  center  of  a  dish  and  surround  with  the  sweet  peppers;  bestrew  with  chopped  parsley. 

(2759).  MDSHEOOM  OEUSTS  AND  WITH  TEUITLES-MOUSSEEONS  (Croutes  aux  Champignons 

Mousserons  et  Croutes  aux  Champignons  Mousserons  aux  TrufFes). 

These  are  prepared  in  various  ways.  Flat  crusts  are  made  three  inches  in  diameter  and  a  quar- 
ter ot  an  inch  thick,  to  be  covered  over  with  butter  and  placed  in  the  oven  to  attain  a  fine  color.  Or 


VEGETABLES.  831 

cut  off  the  tops  of  some  rolls  or  flutes,  empty  out  all  the  crumbs,  coat  the  inside  with  fresh  butter 
and  put  them  into  the  oven  to  color  nicely.  Turn  and  channel  (No.  118)  one  pound  of  sound  mush- 
room heads;  wash  them  in  clear  water,  then  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  salt, 
lemon  juice  and  a  little  water,  boil  for  a  few  moments,  keeping  the  vessel  closed.  Eeduce 
some  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  with  this  mushroom  liquid,  add  to  it  the  mushrooms,  remove  at  the 
first  boil  and  thicken  with  four  egg-yolks,  a  little  cream  and  fresh  butter;  fill  or  cover  the  crusts 
with  this  and  serve  at  once. 

For  Mushroom  and  Truffle  Crusts. — Prepare  the  same  way,  only  adding  minced  truffles  to 
the  mushrooms;  they  may  be  colored  in  the  oven  by  besprinkling  the  tops  with  bread-crumbs  and 
cheese,  pouring  butter  over,  then  set  in  the  oven  for  a  few  moments. 

(2760).  MUSHROOMS  SAUTED  WITH  THICKENED  BUTTER  AND  BEOILED  MUSHROOMS  ON 
TOAST — MOUSSERONS  (Champignons  Mousserons  Sautes  au  Beurre  Lie  et  Champignons 
Grilles). 

Turn  one  pound  of  mushroom  heads  (No.  118);  peel  the  stalks  and  cut  them  up  into  medium- 
sized  pieces.  Put  some  clarified  butter  in  a  sautoir.  add  all  the  mushrooms,  set  it  on  the  fire  and 
let  cook  with  salt,  lemon  juice  and  white  wine.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  add  a  little  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409) ;  thicken  with  two  egg-yolks  and  dilute  with  a  gill  of  cream. 

Broiled  Mushrooms  on  Toast. — Choose  large,  fully  opened  mushrooms,  remove  the  stems  and 
peel  the  heads,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  besmear  with  oil  or  melted  butter  and  place  them  in 
a  hinged  gridiron  (Fig.  172).  Broil  on  a  slow  fire  and  when  cooked  on  one  side,  turn  over.  About 
ten  minutes  should  be  sufficient  to  cook  them.  Dress  on  toast,  having  the  rounded  sides  uppermost, 
spread  over  the  top  partly  melted  maitre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  and  serve  hot. 

(2761).  MUSHROOMS  SERVED  UNDER  A  GLASS  COVER  AND  WITH  CREAM  (Champignons 
Servis  Sous  Cloche  en  Verre  et  k  la  OremeX 

Have  some  round  slices  of  bread  three  inches  in  diameter  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  off  the  stalks  from  some  very  fresh  mushroom 
heads,  channel  (No.  118)  and  saute;  range  these  on 
t.he  slices  of  bread  (the  heads  downward);  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  a  single  slice  on  a 
dish  so  that  each  individual  guest  can  be  supplied 
with  a  separate  one.  Cover  with  a  bell  made 
either  of  glass  or  silver  and  push  them  into  the 
flven  for  twenty  minutes.  After  removing  lift  off 
the  bells  and  cover  the  mushrooms  with  a  white 
wine  veloute"  sauce  (No.  415)  or  a  white  wine 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  492). 

Under  a  Glass  Cover  with  Cream. — Fry  some 
turned    mushroom    heads    in    butter;     moisten 

with  fresh  cream,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  cover  and  simmer  until  the  cream  becomes  partially 
reduced.  Have  slices  of  bread  prepared  the  same  as  for  the  above,  put  a  slice  on  each  plate,  and 
on  these  dress  the  mushrooms  in  a  pyramid  form,  pouring  a  part  of  their  liquid  over  each;  put  on 
the  bells  and  lay  them  to  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then  serve  with  the  bells  still  on. 

(2762),   MUSHROOMS  STUPPED  IN  CASES  WITH  MADEIRA-MOUSSERONS  (Champignons 

Mousserons  Farcis  en  Caisses  au  Madere). 

Procure  twelve  mushrooms,  each  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter;  remove  both  peel 
and  stalks;  wash  and  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91)  scoop  out  the  centers  until  the  firm  mushroom 
meat  is  reached,  then  wash  the  whole,  and  chop  up  the  stalks.  Have  some  hot  butter  and  in  it  fry 
a  little  shallot,  parsley  and  truffles,  all  well  chopped;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  dilute 
with  half  a  pint  of  well  reduced  allemande  sauce  (No.  407);  fill  the  insides  of  the  mushroom  heads 
with  this  dressing.  Prepare  paper  cases  the  same  size  as  the  mushroom  heads,  coat  them  with 
oil,  and  stiffen  in  the  oven;  into  each  case  place  a  little  Madeira  wine,  and  one  mushroom  with  the 
stuffed  side  uppermost;  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  over  a  little  butter,  and  bake  in  the  oven; 
when  done  to  a  fine  color  baste  with  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451),  and  serve. 


832  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(2763).  OKEA  OE  GUMBO,  GAENISHED  WITH  BAELET  BECHAMEL  OEOUSTADES  (Gombo 

Garni  de  Croustades  d'Orge,  Bechamel). 

Procure  young  and  tender  okras;  cut  off  both  ends,  keeping  the  gumbo  two  inches  long-, 
blanch  them  in  a  copper  pan  with  boiling  salted  water,  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir 
one  beside  the  other;  moisten  to  their  height  with  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  let  simmer  until 
cooked  and  the  stock  reduced  to  a  glaze;  dress,  cover  over  with  well-buttered  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  409),  garnishing  around  with  barley  bechamel  croustades,  made  according  to  the  following 
directions. 

Barley  Bechamel  Croustades. — Boil  some  pearl  barley  in  salted  water  for  three  hours,  drain, 
put  into  a  sautoir,  and  dilute  with  a  well-buttered  and  highly  seasoned  sauce.  Fill  some  hollow 
croustade  tartlets  with  this,  forming  a  cover  with  a  round  piece  of  savarin  (No.  148)  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  in  diameter  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  having  it  buttered  and  glazed  in  the  oven. 

(2764).  ONIONS  BOILED,  HOLLANDAISE  OE  SOUBISE  SAUCE  (Oignons  Bouillis,  Sauce  Holland- 

aise  ou  Soubise). 

Peel  medium-sized  onions,  each  one  weighing  two  ounces;  boil  them  in  salted  water,  and  when 
done,  drain,  wipe  carefully,  and  dress  them  in  clusters  or  in  a  row,  covering  over  with  Hollandaise 
sauce  (No.  477)  or  a  well-buttered  soubise  sauce  (No.  543). 

(2765).  ONIONS  BEAISED  (Oignons  Braise's). 

Peel  eighteen  onions,  weighing  an  ounce  and  a  half  each,  being  careful  not  to  break  them;  cut 
off  the  stalks  and  roots  and  make  a  crosswise  incision  on  the  root  end;  saute  them  in  butter  or  fat 
with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  browning  slightly;  then  range  them  in  a  sautoir  with  bards  of  fat 
pork;  moisten  with  a  little  veal  blond  stock  (No.  423),  just  sufficient  to  cover,  and  cook  slowly  while 
reducing  the  liquid.  Dress  in  a  vegetable  dish  and  pour  the  stock  over,  or  else  cover  with  matelote 
sauce  (No.  498),  having  reduced  it  with  the  stock. 

(2766).  ONIONS,  WHITE  OE  BEEMUDA— STUPPED  (Oignons  Blancs  Ordinaires  ou  d'Espagne  Farcis). 
Take  either  common  white  onions  or  Bermudas  of  medium  size,  each  weighing  about  three 
ounces;  plunge  those  selected  into  boiling  water  for  two  minutes,  then  drain  and  peel  off  the  outer 
skin;  empty  the  insides  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91),  blanch  for  a  few  moments,  drain  and  stuff 
them  with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  79),  incorporating  as  much  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  be- 
strew the  tops  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  butter  over  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  fat  pork; 
moisten  to  a  third  of  their  height  with  broth  (No.  194a),  then  cook  until  they  attain  a  color  in  a 
moderate  oven;  dress  on  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  serve. 

(2767).  PAESNIP  CAKES  PEIED  IN  BUTTEE  (Galettes  de  Panais  Frites  au  Beurre). 
Cut  three  pounds  of  young  parsnips  in  six  or  eight  pieces,  according  to  their  size,  after  they 
have  been  peeled  and  washed;  boil  them  in  water  with  salt  and  butter;  when  cooked  drain  off  well, 
then  pound  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Press  this  pulp  forcibly  through  a  sieve, 
incorporate  a  little  butter,  then  leave  to  cool.  Divide  the  preparation  into  two-inch  diameter  balls, 
roll  these  in  flour,  flatten  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  fry  in  clarified  butter;  drain  and  dress 
on  napkins  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(2768).  GEEEN  PEPPEES  STUFFED  (Piments  Verts  Farcis). 

Plunge  the  peppers  into  hot  fat,  leaving  them  in  sufficiently  long  to  be  able  to  detach  the  outer 
skin  by  rubbing  with  a  cloth;  cut  off  the  stalk  ends  and  empty  out  the  seeds,  etc.  Prepare  a  force- 
meat with  finely  chopped  onions  and  fry  it  in  oil  with  as  much  cut-up  peppers;  let  get  cold,  then 
mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  sausage  meat  (No.  68),  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped 
fresh  mushrooms  and  a  little  thick  tomato  puree  (No.  730).  Put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  boil,  thicken  with  bread-crumbs  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  when  partially 
cold  stir  in  four  egg-yolks.  Fill  the  peppers  with  this,  lay  them  on  a  baking  pan  covered  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  pour  butter  over  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes;  dress  in 
a  circle,  pouring  a  little  light  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  in  the  center. 

(2769).  SWEET  PEPPEES  SAUTED  (Piments  Doux  Saute*). 

Plunge  the  sweet  peppers  in  hot  fat,  or  broil  them,  to  be  able  to  remove  the  light  skin;  divide 
each  one  in  two,  cut  away  the  hard  parts  and  saute  slowly  in  oil,  cooking  them  at  the  same  time; 
season  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  finely  chopped  shallot  and  parsley;  dress  in  a  veg- 
etable dish  and  serve.  Instead  of  fresh  sweet  peppers  canned  ones  can  be  substituted,  these  being 
imported  from  Spain. 


VEGETABLES.  833 

(2770).  POTATOES,  ANNA  (Pommes  de  Terre  Anna). 

Select  long-shaped  potatoes;  they  must  be  peeled  and  cut  into  the  form  of  a  large  cork;  mince 
them  finely,  and  soak  in  water  for  a  few  moments;  drain  and  wipe  on  a  cloth.     Butter  and  bread 
the  inside  of  a  thick  copper  pan,  having  a  well-fitted  cover;  range 
on  the  bottom  and  sides  a  thin  layer  of  the  potatoes,  one  overlapping 
the  other,  then  fill  entirely  with  the  remaining  ones  in  separate  layers, 
covering  each  with  butter  free  from  moisture,  softened  by  working  in  a 
napkin;  mask  the  upper  layer  with  the  same,  and  close  with  the  lid. 
Cook  the  potatoes  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  the  oven;  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  serving  take  from  the  fire,  drain  off  the  butter  and  cut  FIG.  551. 

a  cross  through  the  potatoes  yet  in  the  sautoir,  and  turn  each  quarter 

over  with  the  aid  of  a  palette;  put  back  the  drained-off  butter  and  return  to  the  oven  until  ready, 
and  invert  on  a  dish  to  serve.  These  potatoes  may  be  made  in  a  smaller  pan;  in  this  case  they 
should  not  be  cut  but  turned  over  whole  before  putting  in  the  oven  the  second  time. 

(2771).  POTATOES  BAKED  (Pommes  de  Terre  an  Gratin). 

Wash  and  brush  medium-sized  potatoes,  wipe  dry  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  then  push  into  a 
hot  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes;  when  done  serve  on  a  napkin,  or  else  they  may  be  steamed 
or  boiled,  then  baked  and  peeled;  cover  with  butter,  color  in  the  oven,  and  serve  in  a  vegetable 
dish. 

(2772).  POTATOES  BIAEEITZ-BAKED  (Pommes  de  Terre  an  Gratin  a  la  Biarritz). 
Put  a  pound  of  peeled  potatoes  to  boil  in  salted  water;  drain  as  soon  as  done,  and  dry  in  the 
oven;  rub  through  a  sieve,  then  put  this  puree  into  a  saucepan  to  dilute  with  a  little  clear  gravy 
(No.  404),  and  add  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  two  shallots  prevoiusly  fried  in  butter,  chopped  parsley, 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raw  ham  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares  and  four 
egg-yolks.  Put  aside  the  eighth  part  of  this  preparation,  and  dress  the  remainder  dome-form  on  a 
baking  dish;  to  the  eighth  reserved  part  add  four  egg-yolks  and  a  little  cream;  beat  well,  and  then 
stir  in  two  well-whipped  egg-whites;  cover  the  dome  with  this,  bestrew  it  with  bread-crumbs, 
pour  melted  butter  over,  and  set  it  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes  to  heat  and  bake  to  a  fine  color. 

(2773).  POTATOES,  BIGNON  (Pommes  de  Terre  Bignon). 

Turn  some  raw  potatoes  into  rounds  two  and  one-eighth  inches  in  diameter;  make  an  opening 
in  them  of  one  and  one-eighth  inch,  leaving  a  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch;  blanch  these 
hollow  balls  for  a  few  moments  in  salted  water,  then  turn  them  over  to  drain  well.  Prepare  a 
forcemeat  with  a  shallot  fried  colorless  in  butter,  adding  some  sausage  meat  (No.  68),  and  let  cook 
together;  put  in  salt,  pepper,  bread-crumbs,  chopped  parsley,  and  a  few  egg-yolks,  and  with  this 
preparation  fill  the  holes  in  the  potatoes;  strew  bread-crumbs  over,  then  parmesan  cheese,  sprinkle 
over  melted  butter,  and  range  them  as  fast  as  they  are  ready  in  a  sautoir  lined  with  bards  of 
fat  pork;  pour  more  butter  over,  and  put  on  the  lid,  then  set  it  in  an  oven  to  finish  cooking  the 
potatoes;  when  done  remove  the  cover  and  brown  them  nicely;  range  neatly  in  a  vegetable  dish 
on  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400). 

(2774).  POTATOES  BOILED  IN  TBSIE  SKINS  OE  PEELED.  ENGLISH  STYLE,  PEESILLADE 

BALLS  (Pommes  de  Terre  Bouillies  en  Eobe  on  Pelves,  a  1'Anglaise,  en  Boules  Persillade). 

Boiled  in  Their  Skins  or  Peeled. — Wash  some  uniform -si  zed  potatoes;  cook  them  either  by 
steam  or  in  salted  water  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes,  and  when  nearly  done  (if  in  salted 
water)  drain  and  cover  with  a  damp  cloth;  put  them  into  the  oven  until  all  their  moisture  has 
evaporated,  and  serve  in  folded  napkins,  with  or  without  skins,  or  in  a  covered  vegetable  dish,  so 
they  keep  hot. 

Boiled  English  Style. — Peel  some  raw  potatoes;  pare  them  in  the  shape  of  large  olives,  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  salt  and  water;  cover  and  let  the  liquid  boil  until  the  potatoes  are 
done,  then  drain  off  the  water  and  cover  over  with  a  cloth.  Close  the  saucepan  and  set  it  in  the 
oven  for  a  few  moments  to  dry  them  well;  pour  a  little  melted  salt  butter  over  and  dress  in  a 
vegetable  dish. 

Persillade  Balls  are  potatoes  formed  into  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  to  one  inch  in 
diameter  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91),  and  cooked  the  same  as  the  English.  Serve  them  in  a 
vegetable  dish,  pour  salted  butter  and  chopped  parsley  over. 


834  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2775).  POTATOES,  BOKDELAISE— NEW  (Pommes  de  Terre  Nouvelles  a  la  Bordelaise). 
Select  small,  uniform-sized  new  potatoes;  rub  the  peelings  off  with  a  cloth  and  saute  them  in 
lard,  keeping  the  pan  covered  until  done  and  of  a  fine  color,  then  drain  and  saute  in  butter  with  a 
little  chopped  shallot,  a  trifle  of  garlic,  salt  and  fine  herbs.  In  case  there  be  no  new  potatoes,  pare 
old  ones  into  olive  forms,  wash  and  boil  partly  in  salted  water,  then  drain  and  finish  cooking  in 
butter  the  same  as  the  new  ones. 

(2776).  POTATOES  BEOILED  WITH  FEIED  BREAD-RASPINGS  (Pommes  de  Terre  Grillees  a  la 

Ohapelure  Frite). 

To  prepare  broiled  potatoes  boiled  ones  are  generally  used,  cut  in  half-inch  thick  slices;  lay 
them  on  a  double-hinged  broiler,  salt  and  baste  with  melted  butter,  then  place  the  broiler  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  cook  the  potatoes  to  a  good  color;  dress  them  in  the  center  of  a  dish.  Fry  fresh 
bread-crumbs  in  butter,  and  when  a  fine  golden  brown  pour  over  the  potatoes,  and  serve. 

(2777).  POTATOES,  BUSSY  (Pommes  de  Terre  Bussy). 

After  having  the  potatoes  prepared  the  same  as  for  the  dauphine  potatoes  (No.  2783),  and 
before  dividing  it  into  balls,  mix  in  some  chopped  parsley.  Take  up  some  with  a  teaspoon,  detach 
it  with  the  finger,  and  let  fall  into  hot  frying  fat;  when  of  a  good  color  drain  dry,  and  dress  on 
a  folded  napkin. 

(2778).  POTATO  GAZES  (Gateaux  de  Pommes  de  Terre). 

Bake  eight  potatoes  in  the  oven,  and  when  done  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two,  empty  out  entirely, 
and  place  this  in  a  saucepan  with  two  finely  chopped  shallots  fried  in  butter,  and  a  pound  of  lean 
meat,  either  of  veal  or  lamb  or  dark  poultry  meat,  chives,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  six  egg-yolks,  and  two  gills  of  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  With  this  preparation  make  inch 
and  a  half  diameter  balls  flattening  them  down  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  roll  in 
beaten  egg-white,  then  in  flour,  and  fry  in  a  pan  with  clarified  butter.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin 
in  a  circle  with  fried  parsley  in  the  center. 

(2779).  POTATO  OAKES  WITH  HAM  (Galettes  de  Pommes  de  Terre  an  Jambon). 
Lay  in  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  mashed  potatoes  (No.  2798),  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  mix 
in  with  it  a  lump  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  nutmeg,  a  handful  of  grated  parmesan, 
six  raw  egg-yolks,  two  beaten  whites,  a  little  salt  and  four  ounces  of  cooked  and  finely  chopped 
lean  ham.  Heat  a  griddle  or  frying-pan,  butter  well  the  surface,  take  the  preparation  up 
with  a  spoon,  and  let  it  fall  on  it  in  rounds  three  inches  each,  keeping  them  slightly 
apart;  cook  them  on  a  slow  fire,  turning  over;  when  nicely  colored  and  hardened  drain  and  serve 
hot.  The  preparation  may  be  let  fall  into  three-inch  diameter  rings,  five- sixteenths  of  an 
inch  thick,  filling  them  to  the  top;  in  this  way  the  cakes  will  be  more  uniform  than  when  cooked 
as  above. 

(2780).  POTATOES  CHOPPED  WITH  CREAM,  AND  BAKED  (Pommes  de  Terre  Hach^es  a  la 

Creme  et  au  Gratin). 

Peel  some  boiled  potatoes  after  they  are  cold;  chop  them  up  and  lay  in  a  sautoir  with  butter, 
salt,  nutmeg,  white  pepper  and  cream ;  boil  and  simmer  until  the  preparation  has  acquired  a  suffi- 
cient consistency,  then  serve  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

Baked. — Butter  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  bestrew  it  with  bread-raspings,  and  fill  slightly  bomb- 
shaped  with  chopped  potatoes  and  cream  as  the  above;  dredge  more  bread-raspings  over,  pour  on 
some  butter,  wipe  the  edges  of  the  dish,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2781).  POTATOES,  CREAM  OF,  BAKED  (Oreme  de  Pommes  de  Terre  au  Gratin). 
Cut  up  some  boiled  potatoes  the  same  as  for  duchess  (No.  2785).  Alter  they  have  steamed 
take  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  piece  ot  butte**;  work  rapidly  with  a  large  fork  to  make  a  puree, 
but  do  not  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  season  with  salt,  nutmeg,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  for  three 
or  four  gills  of  the  pure"e  add  four  or  five  raw  egg-yolks  and  a  handful  of  parmesan  cheese, 
diluting  very  slowly  with  a  gill  and  a  half  of  rich,  raw  cream,  so  as  to  have  the  preparation  as 
smooth  as  for  a  pudding;  when  this  degree  is  acquired  stir  well  on  the  side  of  the  range  for  two 


VEGETABLES.  835 

minutes  to  heat  slightly,  then  remove  and  incorporate  two  or  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
divided  in  small  pats.  Pour  the  preparation  at  once  into  a  small  vegetable  dish,  lay  it  on  a 
baking  tin  and  brown  the  surface  lightly  in  the  oven.  Eight  or  ten  minutes  will  be  sufficient.  Serve 
in  the  same  dish. 

(2782).  POTATO  OKOQUETTES,  IN  STJEPKISE  AND  MAISIENNE  (Croquettes  de  Pommes  de  Terre 

en  Surprise  et  a  la  Mai'sienne). 

Obtain  one  pound  of  very  hot  mashed  potato  preparation  (No.  2798),  and  rub  it  through  a 
sieve;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  work  it  well  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  four 
egg-yolks;  let  get  cold,  then  form  it  into  cylindrical  croquettes  an  inch  in  diameter  by  two  and  a 
quarter  inches  in  length;  roll  them  in  bread  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg  and  again  in  bread-crumbs; 
smooth  this  breading  with  a  knife,  and  fry  a  few  at  a  time  in  hot  frying  fat;  drain  and  dress  on 
a  napkin. 

In  Surprise. — Use  the  same  preparation  as  for  the  above;  form  into  round  croquettes  instead 
of  cylindricals,  and  in  the  center  of  each  one  insert  a  half-inch  diameter  ball  of  consistent  chestnut 
puree  (No.  712);  bread-crumb  and  fry  them  the  same  as  the  potato  croquettes. 

Malsienne  Croquettes. — Have  a  pound  of  the  mashed  potato  preparation  (No.  2798),  put  it  into 
a  saucepan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  two  egg-yolks,  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  and 
the  same  quantity  of  green  corn,  the  grains  scraped  free  of  skin;  mix  well  and  leave  till  cold;  with 
this  form  two  and  a  half  inch  cylindrical  croquettes,  having  them  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick; 
roll  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  plenty  of  hot  frying  fat,  drain  and  serve  on  folded  napkins. 

(2783).  POTATOES,  DAUPHINE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Dauphine). 

Bake  two  pounds  of  potatoes,  cut  them  lengthways  in  two,  remove  sufficient  pulp  to  obtain  a 
pound,  and  mix  this  with  a  quarter  as  much  pate-a-chou  (No.  132),  eggs,  a  little  cream,  salt  and 
nutmeg.  Divide  it  to  make  inch  and  a  half  balls,  lengthen  them  to  the  shape  of  an  egg,  roll  in 
butter,  then  in  bread-raspings,  and  fry  in  hot  frying  fat. 

(2784).  POTATOES,  HALF-GLAZE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Demi-Glace). 

Prepare  potatoes  the  same  as  for  gastronome  (No.  2789),  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clarified 
butter,  without  having  them  previously  boiled;  when  nearly  done  change  into  another  saucepan 
and  moisten  with  a  little  gravy  (No.  404),  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  meat-glaze  (No.  402);  cover 
the  pan  and  cook  so  that  the  liquid  be  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  half-glaze  as  soon  as  the 
potatoes  are  finished. 

(2785).  POTATOES,  DUCHESS  (Pommes  de  Terre  Duchesse), 

The  same  preparation  as  the  marchioness  (No.  2797),  adding  a  handful  of  grated  parmesan;  roll 
in  one  and  three-quarter  inch  diameter  balls,  lengthen  these  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  to  have 
them  assume  an  oblong  form  two  and  five-eighths  inches  by  one  and  three-quarter  inches;  flatten 
to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  cut  off  the  four  corners,  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  then  in  bread- 
crumbs and  lay  them  on  a  liberally  buttered  baking  sheet,  pouring  more  butter  over;  push  into  a 
very  hot  oven  and  when  of  a  fine  color  remove  from  the  oven  and  serve. 

(2786).  POTATOES,  PARISIENNE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Parisienne). 

Cut  them  with  a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  diameter  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91);  fry  slowly  in 
plenty  of  hot  fat  and  when  three-quarters  done  drain  this  off  and  lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  clari- 
fied butter,  toss,  season  with  salt,  sprinkle  over  with  chopped  parsley  and  serve. 

(2787).  POTATOES  PRIED  AND  CHANNELED  (Pommes  de  Terre  Cannelees  Frites). 
Put  some  frying  fat  (No.  55)  in  a  pan  provided  with  a  wire  basket  (Fig.  121).  Peel  raw  potatoes, 
cut  them  in  slices  with  a  channeled  knife  (Fig.  157),  having  each  one  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
diameter  and  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  throw  them  into  cold  water  immediately,  soak  for 
one  hour,  then  drain;  put  them  into  a  wire  basket,  and  plunge  into  the  warm  frying  fat;  then 
cook,  keeping  them  at  the  same  degree  of  heat,  stirring  about  several  times;  when  done  and  nicely 
colored,  drain,  wipe,  salt  and  dress  in  a  pyramid. 


836  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2788).  POTATO  PRITTERS  (Beignets  de  Pommes  de  Terre). 

Imitate  small  eggs  with  potato  croquette  preparation  (No.  2782) ;  leave  them  till  quite  cold  on 
ice,  then  cut  each  one  lengthwise  in  two,  thus  obtaining  two  halves  for  every  egg,  then  cut  these 
again  in  two  on  their  length;  dip  these  separate  quarters  in  a  light  frying  batter  (No.  137),  then  in 
hot  frying  fat  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2789).  POTATOES,  GASTRONOME  (Pommes  de  Terre  Gastronome). 

From  some  raw  potatoes  trim  cylindrical  one  inch  in  diameter  by  an  inch  and  a  quarter  long; 
blanch  them  for  ten  minutes,  then  drain  off  and  finish  cooking  in  clarified  butter;  when  done  pour 
this  butter  off  and  add  salt,  lemon  juice,  a  small  quantity  of  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  chopped  truffles 
and  a  little  Madeira  wine.  Range  and  serve  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

(2790).  POTATOES  HOLLANDAISE  WITH  MELTED  BUTTER  OR  HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE 

(Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Hollandaise  ail  Beurre  Fondu  ou  a  la  Sauce  Hollandaise), 
Cut  potatoes  into  inch  balls  with  a  round  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91);  cook  them  in  salted  water, 
and  a  few  moments  before  they  are  finished  drain  off  the  water  and  cover  with  a  damp  cloth,  then 
lay  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes;  return  to  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  slightly  melted  salty 
butter  or  else  use  a  well-buttered  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  477). 

(2791).  POTATOES,  HOUSEKEEPER'S  STYLE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Menagere). 

Cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean,  unsmoked  bacon  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares;  blanch 
and  fry  in  butter  two  ounces  of  chopped  onion;  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a),  having  jusfe  suffi- 
cient to  moisten,  and  let  the  bacon  cook  so  that  when  done  the  liquid  will  all  be  reduced;  add  about 
a  pound  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2792).  POTATOES,  JULIENNE  OR  STRAW  (Pommes  de  Terre  Julienne  ou  Pommes 

de  Terre  Faille). 

Peel  the  potatoes  and  cut  them  in  eighth  of  an  inch  slices  and  these  into 
fillets.  For  straws  the  fillets  are  much  thinner  than  for  Julienne;  fry  the  same 
as  the  channeled  (No.  2787). 

(2793).  POTATOES,  LONG  BRANCH  (Pommes  de  Terre  Long  Branch). 

Cut  up  some  peeled  potatoes  with  the  machine  (Fig.  552);  these  pieces  can  be 
obtained  several  yards  long.  Soak  them  in  cold  water  for  some  hours,  and  fry 
the  same  as  channeled  potatoes  (No.  2787)  in  white  fat. 

(2794).  POTATOES,  LYONNESE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Lyonnaise). 

Pare  some  cooked  potatoes  into  cylinders  one  inch  in  diameter,  cut  them 
FIG.  552.  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  and  saute  in  butter;  mince  finely  one  medium- 

sized  onion;  fry  it  in  butter,  and  when  nicely  colored  mix  in  the  sauted  potatoes 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  toss  them  again  for  a  few  moments,  drain  off  the  butter  and 
dress. 

(2795).  POTATOES,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (Pommes  de  Terre  Maitre  d'Eotel), 

Boil  the  potatoes  the  same  as  for  plain  boiled  No.  2774;  leave  them  to  cool  partly,  then  pai'e 
into  cylindricals  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  these  into  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  slices;  place  them 
in  a  saucepan  having  its  bottom  well  buttered,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  moisten  to  three- 
quarters  of  their  height  with  broth  (No.  194a).  Boil  slowly  until  the  liquid  be  reduced,  then  remove 
from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  few  bits  of  butter,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice.  They  can  also  be 
prepared  by  using  raw  potatoes  pared  to  the  same  size  and  thickness  as  those  for  the  above;  set 
them  in  a  buttered  saucepan,  moisten  with  veal  blond  (No.  423),  season  and  cook  on  a  brisk  fire  in 
such  a  way  as  to  have  the  liquid  almost  dry  by  the  time  the  potatoes  are  done;  just  when  serving 
add  a  few  small  lumps  of  butter,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

(2796).  POTATOES,  MARSHAL  (Pommes  de  Terre  Marshal). 

Mince  some  raw  potatoes;  wash  and  wipe  well  on  a  cloth;  put  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with 
butter;  season  and  cook  very  slowly  while  covered,  tossing  them  frequently;  when  soft  beat  them 
up  and  dress  in  layers  in  a  vegetable  dish;  bestrew  each  of  these  with  grated  parmesan,  pour 
melted  butter  over  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven. 


VEGETABLES. 


83? 


(2797).  POTATOES,  MARCHIONESS  (Pommes  de  Terre  Marquise). 

Peel  and  cut  up  some  raw  potatoes;  boil  them  in  salted  water,  drain  it  off  as  soon  as  they  are 
done  and  cover  over  with  a  clean  cloth;  let  steam  for  a  few  moments  in  a  slack  oven,  then  remove 
and  rub  a  few  at  a  time  through  a  sieve;  put  this  puree  into  a  saucepan,  and  for  each  pound 
stir  in  quickly  one  ounce  of  butter,  live  raw  egg-yolks,  salt,  nutmeg,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  good  raw  cream.  Pour  the  preparation  on  a  floured  table,  roll  it  into  thick  cork- 
shaped  pieces  and  cut  these  across  in  ovals  two  inches  wide,  three  inches  long  and  half  an  inch 
thick;  range  them  in  a  copper  baking  pan  with  hot  clarified  butter  and  brown  on  both  sides  in  the 
oven,  turning  them  over  while  cooking. 


(2798).  POTATOES,  MASHED,  IN  SNOW,  IN  PUREE  OR  BAKED  (Pommes  de  Terre  en  Neige,  en 

Puree  ou  au  Gratin). 

Boil  mealy  potatoes,  the  same  as  described   in   No.  2774;  pass  them  through  a  small  hand 
strainer  (Fig.  558),  or  a  large  pressure  strainer  if  for  larger  quantities  (Fig.  554). 

For  Snow  Potatoes  use  the  puree  as  it  leaves  the  strainer  (Fig.  553),  put  it  in  a  napkin  and 

form  it  into  a  ball  inside  of  this; 
remove  the  napkin  slowly  to 
have  the  ball  remain  whole  and 
serve  in  a  covered  vegetable  dish. 
In  Puree. — After  removing 
the  potatoes  from  the  strainer, 
put  the  puree  in  a  saucepan, 
adding  one  ounce  of  butter  for 
each  pound,  and  a  gill  of  milk; 
serve. 

Baked  Mashed  Potatoes. — Lay 
the  potatoes  in  a  baking  dish,  smooth  the  top  nicely,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and 
parmesan,  pour  butter  over  and  bake  in  the  oven,  or  substitute  potato  croquette  preparation 
(No.  2782);  dress  in  the  center  of  a  baking  dish  in  pyramid  form  and  mark  with  a  knife  in  large 
stripes  from  top  to  bottom;  brush  over  with  beaten  eggs,  baste  with  melted  b\itter  and  brown  in 
a  not  too  hot  oven. 


FIG.  553. 


FIG.  554. 


(2799).  POTATOES,  MELLOW  (Pommes  de  Terre  Pondantes). 

Prepare  a  few  dozen  small  potatoes,  giving  them  the  shape  of  a  pigeon's  egg,  all  of  uniform  size; 
lay  them  in  a  sautoir  with  melted  veal  kidney  fat,  or  good  lard,  and  cook  slowly  while  turning  so 
that  they  color  on  all  their  surfaces;  when  done,  press  down  slightly  with  a  palette  so  as  to  flatten 
without  breaking;  they  should  now  be  oval-shaped.  Pour  off  the  fat  from  the  pan  and  cover  with 
butter;  put  in  the  potatoes,  one  beside  the  other,  and  keep  them  in  the  oven  from  ten  to  twelve 
minutes,  to  have  them  absorb  the  largest  part  of  the  butter  while  turning  and  basting;  salt  over 
and  dress  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

Another  way  is  to  prepare  by  first  boiling  olive-shaped  potatoes,  then  crushing  them  one  after 
the  other  in  a  cloth;  place  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  pour  slightly  melted  fresh  butter  over  and 
color  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  at  frequent  intervals  with  the  butter  while  cooking;  dress  in  a  vegetable 
dish. 

(2800),  POTATOES,  PONT-NEUF  (Pommes  de  Terre  Pont-Neuft 

These  are  potatoes  cut  in  square  lardon  shapes,  three-eighths  of  an  inch  by  two  inches  in 
length,  to  be  fried  and  dressed  the  same  as  the  channeled  potatoes  (No.  2787). 


(2801).  POTATOES,  PROVENC.  AL    (Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Prove^ale). 

Trim  raw  potatoes  to  the  shape  of  corks,  then  cut  them  across  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness;  wipe  perfectly  dry  and  saute  slowly  in  oil  so  they  have  plenty  of  time  to  cook,  then  add 


838 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


a  little  garlic  and  a  little  onion  all  finely  chopped;  salt  them  and  finish  in  the  oven  just  when  serving; 
drain  off  the  butter  and  strew  over  with  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

(2802).  POTATOES,  SARAH  (Pommes  de  Terre  Sarah), 
Cut  some  raw  potatoes  into  corkscrew  shapes  with  a  special  machine  (Fig 
555);  fry  till  half  done  in  not  too  hot  fat;  drain  and  place  them  in  a  santoir  with 
clarified  butter  to  finish  cooking,  seasoning  with  salt,  and  adding  chopped  parsley 
and  lemon  juice. 


(2803).    POTATOES,  SARATOGA  (Pommes  de  Terre  Sar- 
atoga). 

Mince  the  potatoes  very  finely  in  the  machine  (Fig. 
556),  or  cut  thinly  with  a  knife;  lay  them  in  cold  water  for 
twelve  hours,  changing  it  several  times,  then  drain  and  fry 
in  very  hot  white  lard;  when  finished  they  should  be  ex- 
ceedingly white  and  dry. 


FIG.  556. 


FIG.  555.        (2804).  POTATOES  SAUTED  (Pommes  de  Terre  Santees), 

Boil  some  long  unpeeled  potatoes  in  salted  water;  remove  their  skins  and  when  partly  cold  pare 
into  the  shape  of  corks,  then  in  three-sixteenths  inch  slices  and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  melted  butter; 
season  and  saute  over  a  moderate  fire  to  have  them  slightly  browned;  bestrew  with  chopped  pars- 
ley and  serve  at  once. 

(2805).  POTATOES  SAUTED  WITH  ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  AND  TRUFFLES  (Pommes  de  Terre 

Saute'es  aux  Fonds  d'Artichauts  et  aux  TrufFes). 

Trim  long  potatoes,  shaping  them  into  cylinders  one  inch  in  diameter;  cut  them  into  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  slices,  drain  and  dry  on  a  cloth;  also  trim  small  artichoke  bottoms, 
cut  them  in  four  pieces,  and  pare.  Heat  a  liberal  quantity  of  good  oil  in  a  sautoir;  put  in  the 
potatoes  and  artichoke  bottoms,  and  cook  while  tossing  to  have  them  attain  a  color;  drain  when 
done,  and  add  salt  and  butter;  shake  off  of  the  fire  until  the  butter  dissolves,  then  add  minced 
truffles  cooked  in  Madeira  wine,  tossing  continually  in  the  meanwhile:  serve  up  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

(2806).  POTATOES  IN  THE  SHAPE  OF  AN  OMELET  (Pommes  de  Terre  en  Forme  d'Omelette). 

Boil  a  few  raw,  peeled  potatoes  in  salt  and  water;  when  cooked  drain  off  the  water,  and  let 
steam  for  five  or  six  minutes;  invert  them  on  a  clean  cloth  to  dry  all  the  moisture,  and  return  them 
to  a  pan  containing  melted  butter;  fry  for  two  minutes,  then  break  by  chopping  them  up  with  an 
iron  palette  until  well  crumbled,  adding  a  little  melted  butter  from  time  to  time;  season;  brown 
nicely  while  tossing  incessantly;  lastly  bring  the  potatoes  to  the  front  of  the  pan  to  have  them  all 
together,  and  shape  the  mass  like  a  folded  omelet;  color  it  nicely,  adding  a  little  more  butter,  and 
invert  it  on  a  small  long  dish. 

Another  Way  is  to  peel  boiled  cold  potatoes;  chop  them  up  or  else  cut  them  in 
small  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  cubes;  saute  them  in  a  pan  with  clarified  butter, 
season  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley  and  let  color  nicely,  tossing  them  unceasingly; 
bring  the  preparation  forward  to  the  front  of  the  pan,  assemble  it  together,  and 
shape  it  like  a  folded  omelet;  color,  adding  a  little  more  butter,  and  when  finely 
browned  drain  off  the  fat  and  turn  it  over  as  an  omelet  on  a  long  dish. 

(2807).  POTATO  SHAVINGS  (Pommes  de  Terre  en  Oopeaux). 
These  are  to  be  cut  with  a  special  machine  (Fig.  557);  they  are  shaped  like  thin 
spirals.     Leave  them  soak  in  cold  water  for  two  hours,  then  drain  well,  and  place 
inside  a  hinged  double  broiler  to  keep  them  apart;  fry  the  same  as  the  channeled 
potatoes  (No.  2787). 

(2808).  POTATOES  SCUFFLED  (Pommes  de  Terre  Souffles). 

Good  scuffled  potatoes  can  best  be  made  by  using  those  called  Holland  potatoes. 

First  trim  the  raw  potatoes  in  ovals  of  equal  size,  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  one  and  a  quarter 

wide,  and  then  proceed  to  slice  them  lengthwise  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness.    As  quickly 


FIG.  557. 


VEGETABLES.  839 

as  they  are  cut  throw  them  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  leaving  them  in  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Heat 
two  panfuls  of  fat,  one  of  fresh  beef  kidney  suet,  the  other  having  previously  been  used  for  other 
purposes  and  therefore  its  strength  being  somewhat  extracted,  it  should  be  clean  and  white. 
Wipe  the  sliced  potatoes  on  a  cloth,  dry  them  thoroughly,  put  them  in  a  basket  and  plunge  them 
into  the  oldest  fat,  leaving  them  cook  until  they  become  soft,  but  do  not  let  them  take  color.  Ke- 
move  and  place  them  on  a  large  sieve  to  drain  and  cool  for  a  few  moments,  and  just  before  serving 
plunge  the  potatoes  into  the  fresh,  hot  fat,  toss  them,  remove  those  that  do  not  souffle,  also  those 
that  souffle  badly;  set  them  to  cool,  and  return  them  again  to  the  hot  fat.  Should  they  not 
souffle  at  the  second  immersion,  it  is  useless  to  try  again.  Salt  the  potatoes  before  serving,  dress 
around  the  meat,  or  on  a  napkin  in  a  separate  dish. 

(2809).  POTATOES  IN  SUEPKISE  (Pommes  de  Terre  en  Surprise). 

Wash  and  brush  medium-sized  potatoes,  wrap  them  in  separate  sheets  of  damp  paper;  range 
on  a  baking  tin,  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes;  remove,  unwrap  and  make  an 
opening  on  one  side  of  each  potato;  empty  the  contents  with  a  small  spoon  (Fig.  91),  pound  this 
to  a  pulp  with  fresh  butter,  salt,  nutmeg  and  egg-yolks;  refill  the  potatoes,  close  the  aperture  with 
the  piece  removed,  and  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking  tin,  having  the  opening  uppermost.  Push 
into  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then  dress  on  or  inside  of  a  folded  napkin. 

(2810).  POTATO  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  de  Pommes  de  Terre). 

Prepare  mashed  potatoes  the  same  as  for  duchess  (No.  2785) ;  make  it  rather  firm  with  egg- 
yolks,  butter  and  parmesan;  with  it  fill  some  large  buttered  molds  lined  with  puff  paste  parings  (No. 
146),  rolled  out  thin;  press  down  well,  and  smooth  the  tops.  Place  on  a  baking  sheet  and  push  in 
a  hot  oven;  unmold  when  nicely  colored  and  dress  as  a  garnishing  or  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2811).  POTATO  TIMBALE  A  LA  PARMENTIEB,  (Timbale  de  Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Parmentier), 
Remove  some  rounds  with  a  three-quarter  inch  diameter  tin  tube  from  slices  of  potatoes  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick;  saute  them  in  butter  for  two  minutes,  then  drain.  Line  the  bottom  of 
a  buttered  timbale  mold  with  part  of  these  rounds,  and  the  sides  with  separate  rows  laid  on  flat, 
intercalating  them  in  such  a  way  that  a  round  of  potato  lays  between  two  others  of  the  next  row. 
Prepare  a  puree  with  a  pound  of  potatoes  boiled  in  salted  water,  drained  and  covered  with  a  damp 
cloth,  then  dried  in  the  oven;  rub  through  a  sieve  and  stir  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  whole  egg, 
one  yolk,  salt  and  nutmeg.  Fill  the  timbale  with  this,  lay  the  cover  over  and  push  into  a  moderate 
oven  to  cook  for  half  an  hour  or  more;  when  removed  let  stand  for  ten  minutes,  and  invert  on  a 
hot  dish. 

(2812).  POTATOES,  VIENNESE  (Pommes  de  Terre  Viennoise). 

To  be  made  with  the  same  preparation  as  Marchioness  (No.  2797);  divide  it  into  balls,  roll 
these  on  a  table,  covered  with  rice  flour,  to  look  like  a  Vienna  loaf, — thick  in  the  center  and 
pointed  at  the  ends.  Imitate  the  gashes  in  the  center  of  its  length,  egg  over  twice  and  cook  in  a  hot 
oven.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(2813).  POTATOES  WITH  MINCED  TEUFFLES  (Pommes  de  Terre  aux  Truffes  Emincees). 

Peel  raw  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  one-inch  diameter  corks,  then  across  in  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  slices;  wash,  wipe  well  and  lay  them  in  a  thin  sautoir  with  melted  butter,  seasoning 
with  salt;  cover  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven,  being  careful  to  shake  them  about  frequently  until  they 
are  slightly  browned,  then  add  a  quarter  as  much  minced  truffles  cut  one  inch  in  diameter  and  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  drain  off  the  butter  and  baste  with  a  small  quantity  of  good  Madeira  wine, 
meat  glaze  (No.  402),  and  lemon  juice.  Pour  into  a  vegetable  dish  and  serve. 

(2814).  PUMPKIN  FRIED  IN  SMALL  STICKS  (Potiron  en  Batonnets  Frits). 

Peel  and  remove  the  inside  part  of  a  pumpkin  or  marrow  squash  so  that  only  the  meat  remains; 
cut  two  pounds  of  this  into  small  sticks  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
across;  lay  them  in  a  vessel,  strew  salt  over  and  let  macerate  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain,  wipe 
and  dip  quickly  in  flour;  plunge  a  few  at  a  time  into  very  hot  fat;  when  cooked,  drain,  salt  and 
dress  on  a  napkin. 


840  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2815).  PUESLAIN,  GEEEN  OE  GOLDEN  A  LA  BAEBANQON  (Pourpier  Vert  ou  Dore  a  la 

Barbangon), 

Clean  three  pounds  of  the  golden  purslain;  blanch  in  salted  boiling  water,  drain  and  finish 
cooking  in  some  good  blond  veal  stock  (No. 423),  thickening  with  a  little  kneaded  butter  (No.579),  and 
adding  four  ounces  of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  in  squares.  Dish  it  up  and  garnish  around  with  small 
tartlets  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  Cook  some  of  the  purslain  in  salted  water  after  it  has 
been  cleaned;  drain  and  press  out  all  the  liquid,  then  fry  it  in  butter,  season  and  add  bread-crumbs 
and  raw  egg-yolks.  Line  some  round  tartlet  molds  with  thin  puff  paste  (No.  146),  fill  them  with 
the  preparation,  strew  over  grated  parmesan  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  turn  them  out  to  range 
around  the  purslain,  laying  between  each  one  a  small  marinated  purslain  stalk  dipped  in  light 
frying  batter  (No.  137)  and  fried  to  a  fine  color. 

(2816).  COS  LETTUCE  A  LA  EUDINI-STUFFED  (Eomaine  Parole  a  la  Eudini). 

Remove  the  green  stalk  leaves  from  six  cos  lettuces;  cut  each  one  lengthwise  in  two,  remove 
the  centers  or  hard  parts,  and  blanch  in  boiling  salted  water;  drain  properly,  and  lay  them  on  a 
cloth;  suppress  all  the  hard  part  from  the  leaves  and  stuff  each  half  with  veal  quenelle  forcemeat  (No. 
92),  into  which  mix  the  insides  of  four  cooked  and  skinned  sausages,  also  a  coffeespoonf  ul  of  finely 
cut-up  chives.  Roll  the  romaines  into  muff-shapes,  wrap  them  around  with  fat  pork,  then  braise 
and  drain;  strain  and  reduce  the  stock  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  and  pour  this  over  after  it 
has  been  well  reduced. 

(2817).  SALSIFY  OE  OTSTEE  PLANT  A  LA  POULETTE,  SAUTED  WITH  FINE  HERBS  OE 

FEIED  (Salsifis  ou  Scorsoneres  a  la  Poulette,  Saute"s  aux  Fines  Herbes  ou  Frits). 
A  la  Poulette. — Scrape  some  oyster  plants  to  remove  their  covering  of  brown  skin,  cut  off  the 
tops  and  thin  end  parts,  and  throw  them  as  quickly  as  they  are  done  in  cold  water  acidulated  with 
vinegar;  divide  them  into  two  and  a  half  inch  lengths,  and  cook  in  a  white  stock  (No.  182),  into  which 
add  chopped  beef  kidney  suet  and  sliced  lemon  pulp;  let  cook  slowly,  and  when  they  crush  under 
the  pressure  of  the  finger,  then  drain.  Saute  them  colorless  in  butter,  season,  drain  off  the  fat, 
and  put  in  a  little  veloute  (No.  415);  roll  them  in  the  sautoir  and  thicken  with  egg-yolks  and  butter, 
finishing  with  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley. 

Sauted  With  Fine  Herbs. — Are  first  to  be  cooked  the  same  as  the  poulette,  then  cut  across  in 
slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  sauteM  in  butter,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley 
and  lemon  juice. 

Fried. — Prepare  the  same  as  for  the  poulette,  drain  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice 
and  chopped  parsley;  dip  them  into  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  fry  slowly  in  plenty  of  hot  white 
fat;  drain,  salt,  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  bunch  of  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(2818).  SOEEEL  WITH  GEAVY  (Oseille  au  Jus). 

Pick  some  clean,  tender  sorrel  leaves;  wash  well,  changing  the  water.  Put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  little  salt  and  water;  dissolve  while  stirring  with  a  spoon;  throw  the  sorrel  into  a  col- 
ander and  when  cold  press  it  through  a  sieve.  Put  this  puree  with  a  little  prepared  white  roux 
(No.  163),  and  cook  it  for  a  few  moments  while  stirring;  moisten  with  a  small  quantity  of  gravy 
(No.  404);  reduce  the  puree,  mixing  well  all  the  time;  season  and  finish  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No. 
400). 

(2819).  SAUEEKEAUT  GAENISHED  (Choucroute  Garnie). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan;  lay  in  two  pounds  of  fresh  sauerkraut  washed  in  several  waters; 
in  the  center  arrange  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  goose  or  chicken 
fat;  moisten  to  its  height  with  broth  (No.  194a),  and  in  the  middle  lay  an  eight-ounce  cervelas  saus- 
age, one  onion  or  carrot  cut  in  four  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley  (No.  123);  cover  over  with 
buttered  paper  and  cook  for  two  hours  or  more;  the  moistening  should  be  reduced  when  the  sauer- 
kraut is  done;  drain  off  the  fat,  take  out  the  bacon,  sausage  and  vegetables,  and  add  to  the  sauer- 
kraut one  gill  of  white  wine,  a  piece  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579)  and  three  ounces  of  plain  butter 
divided  in  small  pats.  Suppress  the  bacon  rind,  cut  it  and  the  sausage  into  slices  and  dress  them 
around  the  sauerkraut  as  a  garnishing;  thicken  the  sauce  with  some  espagnole  (No.  414),  and  serve 
separately. 


VEGETABLES.  841 

(2820).  SPINACH  WITH  BECHAMEL  SAUCE  AND  WITH  CREAM  (Epinards  a  la  Bechamel  et 

a  la  Creme). 

Pick  some  fresh,  tender  spinach,  using  only  the  leaves;  when  well  cleaned  and  washed  in  sev- 
eral waters  plunge  into  boiling  salted  water  and  blanch  for  five  or  six  minutes;  drain,  refresh  and 
press  out  every  particle  of  moisture.  Chop  finely  and  put  into  a  saucepan  with  hot  melted  butter. 
Season,  place  the  saucepan  on  a  brisk  fire  for  a  few  moments  without  ceasing  to  stir  until 
the  moistening  is  reduced,  and  finish  with  two  spoonfuls  of  thick  bechamel  (No.  409),  and  another 
piece  of  butter. 

With  Cream. — After  the  spinach  has  been  prepared  as  for  the  above,  and  thoroughly  dried, 
add  to  it  a  little  flour,  moisten  with  cream  and  stir  constantly.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  incorpo- 
rate a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  then  dress  and  garnish  around  with  puff  paste  crescents  or  small 
bouche'es  filled  with  bechamel  (No.  411). 

(2821).  SPINACH  A  LA  NOAILLES  (Epinards  a  la  Noailles), 

Carefully  pick  the  spinach,  removing  the  largest  stalks;  wash  it  several  times,  changing  the 
water,  then  blanch  in  anuntinned  copper  vessel  with  salted  water,  letting  it  boil  incessantly.  When 
the  stalks  are  tender  enough  to  crush  under  the  pressure  of  the  finger,  drain  the  spinach  in  a 
coarse  colander,  refresh  and  drain  again;  press  out  all  the  water,  pick  over  to  remove  any  straws 
or  other  impurities  and  then  chop  it  up;  force  this  through  a  coarse  sieve;  place  the  pulp  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  piece  of  butter,  put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  stir  continuously  until  the  moisture  is 
evaporated,  then  besprinkle  with  flour;  moisten  with  some  thick  veal  blond  (No.  423),  adding  a 
little  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  salt  and  nutmeg.  A  moment  before  serving  stir  in  a  piece  of  fresh 
butter.  The  flour  can  be  replaced  by  some  veloute  sauce  (No.  415). 

(2822).  SPINACH  \  LA  KOUGEMONT  (Epinards  a  la  Rougemont). 

Have  the  spinach  picked  and  prepared  the  same  as  for  a  la  Noailles  (No.  2821).  Brown  a  piece 
of  butter  to  hazel-nut  (No.  567),  put  in  the  spinach,  place  the  pan  on  a  hot  fire,  stir  continually 
until  the  spinach  is  consistent  and  the  moisture  evaporated;  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg;  thicken 
with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  a  little  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  and  fresh  butter;  dress  it  in  a 
dome-form  and  decorate  around  with  small  bouche'es  of  sweetbreads,  mingled  with  very  rich  and 
thick  financiere  sauce  (No.  464). 

(2823).  SPINACH,  ENGLISH  STYLE  (Epinards  a  1'Anglaise). 

Pick  and  wash  the  spinach  in  several  waters;  blanch  it  in  an  untinned  copper  vessel  with  boil- 
ing, salted  water;  drain  well  and  cut  it  up  without  chopping;  now  put  it  into  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire,  season  with  salt  and  pour  it  into  a  vegetable  dish,  cover  with  small  bits  of  fresh  butter,  set  on 
the  cover  and  serve  very  hot. 

(2824).  SQUASH-MARROW-WITH  PARMESAN  (Citrouille  au  Parmesan). 
Peel  the  squash  and  cut  it  into  quarter-inch  thick  slices;  from  these  remove  twenty-four  round 
pieces  with  an  inch  and  a  quarter  diameter  cutter;  blanch,  drain,  and  saute  them  in  butter  over  a 
brisk  fire,  seasoning  with  salt  and  nutmeg;  dress  them  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other,  on  a 
dish  that  is  fit  to  be  placed  in  the  oven.  Cut  as  much  of  the  squash  into  five- eighths  of  an  inch 
squares,  blanch  by  dropping  them  into  boiling  salted  water,  continuing  the  boiling  process  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  and  fry  them  in  butter,  salt  over,  and  lay  them  in  the  center  of  the 
circle;  dredge  grated  parmesan  cheese  on  top,  pour  on  some  butter,  and  color  in  a  hot  oven;  strew 
chopped  parsley  over  the  surface,  and  when  serving  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  the  whole. 

(2825).  STRING  BEANS  1  L'ALBANI  (Haricots  Verts  a  rAlbani), 

String  some  medium-sized  tender  beans;  cut  them  into  lozenges,  and  boil  in  salted  water 
placed  in  an  untinned  copper  pan.  Drain  them  off,  saute  in  butter,  and  thicken  with  a  little 
veloute  (No.  415)  and  chicken  glaze  (No.  398),  adding  the  jui«e  of  a  lemon.  Dress,  bestrew  with 
chopped  parsley,  and  surround  with  triangular  croutons  (No.  51),  on  which  lay  quartered  artichoke 
bottoms  sauted  in  butter,  and  mingled  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  lemon  juice. 


842  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(2826).  STEING  BEANS  A  LA  BOUEGUIGNONNE  (Haricots  Verts  a  la  Bourguignonne). 
Cut  two  ounces  of  onion  into  squares;  blanch  in  boiling  salted  water,  drain,  and  fry  colorless  in 
butter;  add  to  it  some  lean  unsmoked  bacon  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares,  an  equal 
quantity  of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  the  same  and  fried  in  butter,  also  two  pounds  of  cleaned  string 
beans;  fry  until  the  latter  have  evaporated  their  moisture,  seasoning  with  salt;  moisten  with  a  pint 
of  stock  (No.  194a),  and  as  much  red  wine,  and  when  the  beans  are  done  and  the  liquid  reduced 
add  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  a  small  pinch  of  finely  sliced  chives. 

(2827).  STEING  BEANS  A  LA  PETTIT  (Haricots  Verts  a  la  Pettit). 

Prepare  and  cook  some  string  beans  the  same  as  with  butter  (No.  2829),  but  they  should  only 
be  partly  done;  drain,  wipe,  and  saute  them  in  a  sautoir  with  butter  without  allowing  to  attain 
color,  then  pour  off  the  butter  and  substitute  some  good  sweet  cream;  let  simmer  until  this  is 
almost  reduced,  seasoning  with  salt  and  nutmeg.  Thicken  when  ready  to  serve  with  a  thickening 
of  egg-yolks,  cream,  and  a  small  lump  of  fine  fresh  butter. 

(2828),  STEING  BEANS  SMOTHEKED  (Haricots  Verts  Etuves). 

Choose  string  beans  not  too  small  but  tender  and  fresh;  cut  them  up  and  put  them  into  a  but- 
tered sautoir,  salting  lightly;  moisten  to  about  their  height  with  broth  (No.  194a),  cover  the  sauce 
pan,  and  cook  the  beans  slowly,  adding  a  little  more  broth  as  fast  as  it  reduces.  When  the  beans 
are  done  they  should  be  dry,  then  baste  them  over  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  thickened 
half-glaze  sauce  (No.  400);  finish  off  the  fire  with  some  good  fresh  butter  divided  in  small  pats. 
Pour  into  a  vegetable  dish  and  serve. 

(2829).  STRING  BEANS  WITH  BUTTEE  (Haricots  Verts  au  Beurre). 

If  the  beans  be  young  and  tender  leave  them  whole;  if  large  and  yet  tender,  cut  them  in  two 
or  three  lengthwise  fillets;  string  and  plunge  the  beans  into  boiling  water  in  a  copper 
pan;  salt  and  cook  them  over  a  brisk  fire  without  covering;  keep  them  slightly  hard;  drain  and 
throw  in  cold  water,  then  spread  them  quickly  on  a  cloth  to  wipe  away  all  the  moisture;  put  them 
at  once  into  a  vessel  with  fresh  butter  divided  into  small  pieces,  and  stir  them  about  with  two  forks 
without  breaking,  or  else  toss  until  the  butter  is  dissolved;  season  and  serve  immediately. 

(2830).  SWEET  POTATOES,  BOILED  AND  WITH  LOBSTEE  OOEAL  (Patates  Bouillies  et  au 

Corail  de  Homard). 

This  tubercle  originally  came  from  the  island  of  St.  Domingo,  and  may  be  prepared  in  various 
ways. 

Boiled. — "Wash,  cut  off  the  ends,  and  lay  them  in  a  large-mesh  basket;  cook  them  by  steam  for 
twenty  minutes  or  else  in  boiling  water.  They  can  be  served  either  in  their  skins  or  peeled. 

With  Lobster  Coral. — After  the  sweet  potatoes  are  boiled,  cut  them  into  olive-shapes;  lay  them 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  pour  melted  butter  over,  and  strew  the  top  with  finely  chopped  lobster  coral. 

(2831).    SWEET    POTATOES    SCUFFLED    AND   SWEET  POTATO  CEOQUETTES  (Patates 

Soufflees  et  Croquettes  de  Patates). 

Souffled. — Cut  them  up  raw  into  quarter-inch  slices,  pare  them  oval-shaped  two  and  three- 
quarters  by  one  and  a  half  inches,  then  fry  slowly  in  white  fat  to  have  them  cook  without 
coloring  or  stiffening;  drain  and  ten  minutes  later  throw  them  back  into  hot  fat;  they  should 
puff  out  considerably. 

Croquettes. — After  the  potatoes  are  roasted  cut  them  lengthwise  in  two  and  empty  out  the 
insides;  to  this  add  salt,  nutmeg,  egg-yolks  and  fresh  butter;  mix  well  together,  and  when  the 
preparation  is  thoroughly  cold  roll  it  up  into  inch  and  three-quarter  diameter  balls,  dip  them  in 
eggs,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  brown;  dress  in  a  circle,  having  a  bunch 
of  fried  parsley  to  decorate  the  center. 

(2832).  SWEET  POTATOES  EOASTED  AND  BEOILED  (Patates  Eoties  et  Grilles). 
In  the  Oven. — "Wash  and  cut  off  both  ends,  pare  them  olive-shaped,  lay  them  on  a  baking  pan, 
cover  with  butter  and  roast  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes;  when  done  serve  inside 
of  a  folded  napkin. 


VEGETABLES.  843 

Broiled. — In  order  to  have  them  broiled  cut  some  steam-boiled,  peeled  potatoes  in  slices  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  then  trim  olive-shaped  and  lay  them  in  a  double  broiler;  salt  and  coat 
over  with  melted  butter  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire;  dress  them  inside  a  folded  napkin. 

(2833).  TOMATOES  A  LA  BOQUILLON  (Tomates  a  la  Boquillon). 

Have  very  plump  tomatoes,  plunge  them  into  boiling  water,  peel  off  the  skins  and  cut  them 
into  four  pieces;  place  these  in  a  saucepan  with  salt,  pepper,  fresh  butter  and  sugar,  cover  and  let 
cook  on  a  brisk  fire  for  a  few  moments;  they  are  then  ready  to  serve. 

(2834).  TOMATOES  A  LA  FROSSAKT  (Tomates  a  la  Frossart). 

From  the  stalk  end  of  the  tomatoes  suppress  with  a  pastry  cutter  a  round  piece  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter;  empty  out  the  insides,  drain  and  fill  them  with  chicken  forcemeat  (No.  75), 
adding  to  it  as  much  foies-gras  from  a  terrine  pressed  through  a  sieve,  truffles,  mushrooms, 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  grated  parmesan.  Fill  the  tomatoes  through  a  pocket 
and  bake  them  in  a  slack  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Range  them  in  a  circle,  pour  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492)  in  the  center  and  on  each  tomato  lay  a  round  piece  of  glazed  truffle. 

(2835).  TOMATOES,  PKOVENQAL    STYLE— STUITED  (Tomates  Farcies  a  la  Provenpale). 

Tomatoes  for  stuffing  must  be  selected  of  uniform  size;  cut  off  the  tops  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  diameter,  extract  all  the  seeds,  salt  the  insides  and  then  drain;  fill  them  with  the  following  prep- 
aration: Fry  some  finely  chopped  onions  in  oil  with  a  little  crushed  garlic  and  finely  chopped  mush- 
rooms; when  these  have  rendered  up  their  moisture  add  chopped  parsley,  moisten  with  espagnole 
sauce  (No.  414)  and  meat  glaze  (No.  402),  season  and  thicken  with  bread-crumbs.  Fill  the  tomatoes, 
range  them  on  a  baking  tin,  cover  the  tops  with  bread-crumbs,  pour  oil  over  and  bake  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(2836).  TOMATOES  A  LA  TREVISE  (Tomates  a  la  Tr6vise), 

Cut  twelve  medium,  sound  tomatoes  across  in  two  through  their  thickest  part;  extract  all  the 
liquid  and  lay  them  one  beside  the  other  on  a  buttered  baking  tin.  Have  a  pint  of  good  white 
wine  mirepoix  stock  (No.  419),  into  which  pour  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730) 
and  sufficient  bread-crumbs  to  thicken,  adding  salt,  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely  chopped 
ham  and  chopped  parsley.  Fill  the  halved  tomatoes  with  this  preparation,  dredge  bread-crumbs 
and  grated  parmesan  over,  pour  on  some  oil  and  let  brown  nicely  in  a  hot  oven;  dress  them  on 
top  of  a  buttered  thickened  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  mixing  into  it  more  butter  and  lemon  juice. 

(2837).  TOMATOES  BAKED  (Tomates  Gratings). 

Remove  the  skins  by  plunging  the  tomatoes  into  boiling  water;  cut  each  one  across  in  two, 
press  out  the  seeds  and  lay  them  in  a  large  frying  pan  with  melted  butter;  season  and  reduce  all 
their  moisture.  Range  them  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  the  round  parts  on  the  bottom  and  scatter 
over  cooked  fine  herbs,  composed  of  shallot  fried  in  butter  with  chopped  mushrooms,  chopped  ham, 
parsley  and  bread-crumbs;  pour  butter  or  oil  over  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  slack  oven. 

(2838).  TOMATOES  BEOILED,  HOT  MAYONNAISE  SAUOE  (Tomates  Grilles,  a  la  Sauce  Mayonnaise 

Ohaude). 

Throw  some  sound  tomatoes  in  boiling  water  to  remove  the  skin;  cut  them  across  in  two, 
season  with  salt  and  pour  oil  over.  Place  them  on  a  hinged  double  broiler  and  broil  on  a  slow  fire, 
basting  frequently  with  oil.  Dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  cover  with  hot  mayonnaise  sauce  (No. 
433).  The  mayonnaise  sauce  may  be  served  separately  if  desired. 

Tomatoes  are  frequently  served  broiled  without  any  sauce,  simply  cooked  as  above. 

(2839\  TOMATOES  IN  OASES,  BAKED  (Tomates  en  Oaisses  Gratine'es). 

Throw  some  tomatoes  into  boiling  water  to  peel  off  their  skins  readily;  cut  them  in  two 
through  their  thickest  part,  press  out  all  the  liquid  and  seeds  and  fill  them  with  a  forcemeat 
made  with  cold  chicken  meat,  cut  from  the  legs,  as  much  bread-crumbs  and  as  much  cooked  fine 
herbs  (No.  385)  as  bread;  season  well  and  stir  in  a  few  egg-yolks.  Lay  each  half  tomato  in  an 
oiled  case  (Fig.  439)  stiffened  in  the  oven,  bestrew  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  over,  baste 
with  butter  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


844  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2840).  TOMATOES,  QUEEN  STYLE  (Tomates  a  la  Eeine). 

Throw  some  small  tomatoes  an  inch  and  three-quarters  to  two  inches  in  diameter  into  boiling 
water;  peel  off  the  skins  and  open  them  on  top,  then  take  out  the  seeds,  salt  the  insides  and  drain 
off  all  their  water.  Fill  them  with  well-seasoned  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75),  adding  to 
it  the  same  amount  of  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385)  and  on  top  lay  a  channeled  mushroom  (No  118), 
then  cover  with  a  thin  bard  of  fat  pork.  Arrange  the  tomatoes  on  a  buttered  baking  tin  and  set 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes;  dress  in  a  circle  and  pour  in  the  center  a  well- 
buttered  supreme  sauce  (No.  547),  adding  chopped-up  truffles  to  it. 

(2841),  TOMATOES  A  LA  GIBBONS-SAUTED  AND  PRIED  (Tomates  Sautfcs  et  Frites  a  la 

Gibbons). 

Split  the  tomatoes  in  two  through  their  thickness,  drain  off  their  liquid  and  season;  saute 
them  in  butter  and  oil,  half  of  each,  strew  over  chopped  parsley  and  place  them  in  the  center  of  a 
dish;  garnish  around  with  fried  tomatoes  prepared  as  follows:  Plunge  some  small  tomatoes  in 
boiling  water,  peel  and  cut  them  in  four  even  parts;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar, 
dip  them  into  frying  batter  (No.  137),  then  in  hot  frying  fat,  drain,  salt  and  arrange  them  around 
the  saute'd  tomatoes. 

(2842).  TOMATOES  STUITED  WITH  PEESH  MUSHEOOMS  (Tomates  Farcies  aux  Champignons 

Prais). 

Chop  up  some  clean  fresh  mushrooms,  fry  a  chopped  onion,  and  add  it  to  these,  and  con- 
tinue to  fry  until  all  the  moisture  is  evaporated,  then  season  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Bind 
:'t  with  a  little  sauce,  then  with  an  equal  quantity  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  and  pressed,  a  few 
^aw  egg-yolks,  adding  some  chopped  parsley.  Select  fine,  sound  tomatoes,  smooth  and  round,  of 
even  size,  but  not  too  large  nor  too  ripe;  cut  out  a  piece  from  the  top  in  order  to  open  and  empty 
out  partially,  then  salt  and  drain  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  filling  them  afterward  with  the 
mushroom  preparation,  and  smoothing  the  tops  nicely.  Range  the  tomatoes  in  a  small  bordered 
baking  pan,  bestrew  them  with  bread  crumbs  and  pour  over  some  oil;  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  in  a  slow  oven. 

(2843).  TEUFPLES  IN  A  NAPKIN  OE  IN  A  OEOUSTADE  (Truffes  en  Serviette  on  en  Croustade). 
Choose  one  pound  of  the  finest  medium-sized,  round  and  well- marbled  truffles;  clean  and 
brush  over;  wrap  each  one  separately  in  a  thin  slice  of  fresh  pork.  Fry  slowly  in  butter  without 
coloring  one  ounce  of  raw  lean  ham,  cut  from  the  kernel  and  the  sinews  removed,  as  much 
carrot  and  the  same  of  onions,  all  three  to  be  cut  in  eighth  of  an  inch  pieces,  one  bay  leaf, 


FIG.  557. 

thyme,  a  small  slice  of  garlic  and  one  clove.  When  these  ingredients  have  been  fried  colorless 
moisten  with  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne  or  white  wine  and  let  boil,  then  skim  and  sim- 
mer for  twenty  minutes.  Add  the  truffles  and  cook  slcwly  for  ten  minutes;  thicken  the  stock  very 
slightly  with  a  bit  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579)  and  close  the  saucepan  hermetically;  set  it  in  a  bain- 
marie  for  half  an  hour.  Dress  the  truffles  in  a  folded  napkin  (Fig.  557).  Butter  the  sauce,  pass  it 
through  a  tammy  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat  the  same  time  as  the  truffles.  These  can  also  be 
dressed  in  a  basket  made  of  border  paste  (No.  131),  decorated  with  fanciful  cuts  made  of  the  same 
paste,  or  even  one  made  of  carved  bread.  In  either  case  have  the  basket  very  tasteful  and 
elegant  and  spread  out  open  on  the  top. 


VEGETABLES.  845 

(2844).  TRUFFLES  IN  SHELLS,  BAKED  (Truffes  en  Coquilles,  Gratings). 

Peel  some  truffles  and  put  the  parings  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  Madeira  wine,  parsley, 
thyme  and  bay  leaf;  let  boil  and  leave  in  a  bain-marie  (Fig.  122)  for  half  an  hour.  Cut  the  truffles 
in  three-sixteenths  inch  slices,  warm  them  in  butter,  drain  this  off  and  replace  it  by  thick  bechamel 
(No.  409),  the  above  truffle  essence  and  cream,  seasoning  with  salt,  nutmeg,  prepared  red  pepper 
(No.  168)  and  Madeira  wine,  then  reduce.  Butter  some  silver  shells  (Fig.  438),  strew  over  with 
bread-crumbs  and  fill  with  the  truffles,  then  sprinkle  over  more  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parme- 
san;  pour  melted  butter  over  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven;  serve.  The  minced  truffles  can  be  replaced 
by  small  whole  ones  trimmed  into  balls  or  olives. 

(2845).  TRUFFLES  STUFFED  (Truffes  Farcies). 

Select  seven  or  eight  large,  unpeeled  truffles,  having  them  very  clean,  round  and  of  equal  size; 
put  them  into  a  narrow  saucepan  one  beside  the  other  and  cook  them  for  eight  or  ten  minutes 
while  covered,  adding  salt  and  white  or  Madeira  wine;  leave  them  to  get  partly  cold  in  this  stock. 
Place  in  a  small  saucepan  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cooked  puree  of  foies-gras;  mingle  with  it  a  little 
good  reduced  and  thickened  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  add  some  raw  egg -yolks  and  seasoning. 
Drain  the  truffles,  cut  a  round  piece  from  the  top,  remove  it  and  empty  the  insides  with  a  vege- 
table spoon  (Fig.  91);  cut  up  a  part  of  these  removed  pieces  and  add  them  to  the  foies-gras.  Use 
this  preparation  to  fill  the  truffles;  close  the  opening  with  the  removed  cover  and  return  them  to 
the  original  saucepan  with  a  little  of  their  broth  and  a  little  melted  glaze  (No.  402);  heat  them 
for  ten  minutes  while  basting,  then  remove  and  cook  the  contents,  while  covered,  for  seven  or  eight 
minutes  longer,  off  the  fire.  Dress  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  and  pour  over  their  own  stock. 


(2846).  TRUFFLE  TIMBALE  A  LA  PERIGORD  (Timbale  de  Truffes  a  la  Pengord). 

Decorate  a  timbale  mold  with  fanciful  cuts  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142);  dampen  these  and  line 
the  mold  with  a  layer  of  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cover 
both  bottom  and  sides  of  the  timbale  with  very  thin  bards  of  fresh  fat  pork.  Peel  as  many 
medium-sized  truffles  as  the  timbale  will  hold,  having  them  black  and  mellow;  put  them  to  cook  in 
a  foies-gras  terrine,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaf, 
also  some  minced  ham  and  Madeira  wine;  place  the  terrine  in  the  oven  and  as  soon  as  the  liquid 
comes  to  a  boil  take  it  out  and  let  stand  till  cold,  leaving  the  truffles  in  with  the  stock.  Suppress 
the  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  drain  off  the  stock  and  reduce  it  with  a  pint  of  financiere  sauce  (No.  464) 
reduced  to  the  consistency  of  a  succulent  sauce;  transfer  the  truffles  to  the  timbale,  cover  with  a 
part  of  the  sauce  and  lay  over  a  flat  of  the  same  paste.  Cook  the  timbale  in  a  hot  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  and  serve  unmolded;  pour  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  into  an  aperture  on  top; 
serve  at  once. 


(2847).  TURNIPS  GLAZED  (Navets  Glacis). 

Prepare  some  cylindrical  of  turnips  one  inch  in  diameter  and  one  and  a  half  inches  long,  hav- 
ing them  beveled  on  both  ends;  blanch  these  in  salted  water,  refresh  and  when  well  drained  put 
them  into  a  frying  pan  containing  very  hot  butter.  Color  and  season  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of 
sugar;  drain  once  more,  then  place  them  in  a  sautoir  and  moisten  with  broth  (No.  194a).  When 
cooked  the  liquid  should  be  reduced  to  a  glaze. 


(2848).  TURNIPS.  WITH  SPANISH,  BECHAMEL  OR  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE  (Navets  a  la  Sauce 
Espagnole  a  la  sauce  Be"chamel  ou  a  la  sauce  Allemandel 

Trim  some  turnips  into  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  balls,  or  in  the  shape  of  crescents,  olives  or 
cloves  of  garlic;  blanch  in  salted  water,  drain  and  saute  them  colorless  in  butter,  seasoning  with 
salt  and  sugar;  drain  off  the  butter,  lay  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  moisten  with  gravy  (No.  404)  and 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  finishing  to  cook  quite  slowly.  The  espagnole  sauce  can  be  replaced  by 
bechamel  sauce  and  cream  (No.  411),  or  else  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  and  broth  (No.  194a),  fin- 
ishing with  chicken  glaze  (No.  398)  and  fresh  butter. 


846  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2849).  TELTOW  TUENIPS  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Navets  de  Teltow  aux  Marrons). 
Scrape  and  throw  the  turnips  into  tepid  water,  then  plunge  into  boiling  salted  water  placed 
in  a  well-tinned  saucepan;  boil  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  done  drain  and  put  them  back  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  sugar;  toss  for  a  few  moments,  and  moisten  with 
broth  (No.  194a);  season  and  thicken  with  a  little  butter,  into  which  stir  some  flour  slightly 
browned  in  the  oven;  reduce  to  a  short  sauce,  then  pour  into  a  vegetable  dish;  spread  them  over 
to  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  to  be  filled  with  whole  chestnuts  cooked  in  broth  (No.  2727). 


EG-OS  (CEufs). 


FIG.  558. 

(2850).  EGGS  ((Eufs). 

The  eggs  of  chickens  are  most  generally  used.  Boiled  eggs  should  be  moderately  cooked;  they 
are  the  most  nourishing  and  easily  digested;  duck  eggs  are  as  nutritive  as  those  of  chickens. 
After  these,  the  best  are  pheasant  eggs,  but  they  are  very  scarce.  In  order  to  discover  whether 
an  egg  be  fresh,  hold  it  against  the  light  of  a  candle,  and  if  transparent  without  being  spotted 
then  it  is  fresh. 

The  white  of  an  egg  consists  of  one  part  of  albumen  and  one  part  solid  matter,  this  appearing 
as  an  envelope  to  the  albuminous  liquid,  and  has  the  appearance  of  white  flakes,  also  of  a  fatty 
substance  formed  of  olein  and  stearine. 

The  yolk  is  composed  partly  of  albumen,  partly  of  a  fatty  matter  containing  olein,  and  another 
part  that  is  colored,  besides  one  of  a  solid  membi'anous  composition. 

(2851).  EGGS  AU  MIKOIK  A  LA  JOCKEY  OLUB  ((Eufs  au  Miroir  a  la  Jockey  Club), 

Suppress  the  thin  skin  from  one  half  of  a  white  veal  kidney;  divide  it,  take  out  the  fibrous 
fat,  and  then  cut  the  meat  into  small  dice.  Heat  some  butter  in  a  pan,  put  with  it  the  kidneys, 
season  and  toss  on  a  bright  fire  to  have  them  cook  rapidly,  then  remove  with  a  skimmer,  and  set 
into  a  small  vessel.  Into  the  pan  the  kidneys  were  stewed  in  put  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  half- 
glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  as  much  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  reduce  all  to  a  third,  mixingin  a  spoon- 
ful of  Madeira  wine;  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  take  it  from  the  fire  and  return  the  kidneys,  also 
half  as  much  cooked  truffles  cut  exactly  the  same  size  as  these;  the  sauce  should  be  consistent. 
Cook  six  eggs  au  mirior  on  a  large  buttered  dish,  that  is,  baste  the  egg  yolk  with  boiling  butter 
several  times  while  cooking  in  the  oven;  this  will  make  them  very  glossy;  cut  them  into  rounds 
with  a  pastry  cutter  (three  inches  in  diameter),  take  up  with  a  palette,  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  the 
bottom  of  a  dish;  heat  the  kidneys  without  boiling,  and  dress  them  inside  the  circle. 


(2852).  EGGS  AU  MIROIE  A  LA  LULLY  ((Eufs  au  Miroir  a  la  Lully). 

Butter  a  large  dish  or  baking  pan;  break  in  six  eggs,  pour  boiling  butter  over  the  yolks,  and  put 
in  a  very  hot  oven  or  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123);  when  done  properly  cut  them  rounded  with,  a 
pastry  cutter  two  and  a  quarter  to  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  take  them  up  with  a  large 


(847) 


848  THE    EPICUREAN. 

palette  and  dress  on  a  dish  on  slices  of  ham  of  the  same  dimensions,  and  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  the  ham  on  croutons  of  fried  bread  cut  the  same,  having  taken  them  from  the 


FIG.  559. 

kernel  part  of  a  good  raw  ham;  fry  them  in  butter  in  a  pan,  turning  them  over.  Fill  the  center  of 
this  circle  with  a  hash  made  of  sliced  and  seasoned  ducks'  livers  mingled  with  a  little  Drown  Madeira 
wine  sauce  (No.  492). 

(2853),  EGGS  AU  MIROIR  A  LA  MEYERBEER  (OBufs  au  Miroir  k  la  Meyerbeer). 
Peel  off  the  skin  from  two  mutton  kidneys;  split  them  lengthwise  on  the  roundest  side  without 
separating  the  parts,  run  two  small  wooden  skewers  through  each  kidney,  season  and  roll  in  oil, 
then  broil  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  turning  them  over  in  the  meanwhile.  Cook  two  eggs  in  a  china 
dish  (Fig.  567),  having  them  glossy  on  top;  cut  them  round-shaped  with  a  two  and  a  half  inch 
pastry  cutter  and  take  them  up  with  a  palette  and  dress  on  a  hot  dish  with  some  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549)  underneath.  After  removing  the  kidneys  from  the  fire  glaze  them  with  a  brush,  pull 
out  the  skewers  and  divide  each  one  in  two.  Dress  them  on  both  sides  of  the  eggs,  the  cut  side 
uppermost,  and  fill  the  hollow  with  a  consistent  Perigueux  sauce  (No.  517);  serve. 

(2854)'  EGGS  AU  MIROIR  A  LA  PROVENgAL  ((Eufs  au  Miroir  k  la  ProvenpaleX. 
Pick  out  three  or  four  even-sized  tomatoes,  cut  them  through  their  thickest  part  in  two,  sup- 
press the  seeds  and  put  them  into  a  pan  with  some  oil;  season  and  cook  on  both  sides  until  they 
have  reduced  their  moisture,  then  take  them  from  the  pan  and  dress  on  a  serving  dish  capable  of 
being  put  in  the  oven;  bestrew  with  chopped  parsley  mingled  with  a  bit  of  garlic  and  a  pinch  of 
dry  bread-crumbs,  pour  over  some  oil  and  let  brown  for  ten  minutes;  remove  and  lay  on  top  of 
each  tomato  one  miroired  egg  cut  round  with  a  pastry  cutter  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter. 

(2855).  EGGS  AU  MIROIR  A  LA  TIVOLIER  ((Eufs  au  Miroir  k  la  Tivolier). 

Toast  some  slices  of  bread  cut  into  rounds  two  and  a  half  inches  across  and  on  each  one  place 
a  layer  of  chopped  marrow;  set  into  a  hot  oven.  Fry  raw  ham  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares 
in  a  pan  with  lard;  drain  this  off  and  finish  with  butter,  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  lemon  juice. 
Fry  some  eggs  in  a  pan;  gloss  by  putting  them  in  the  oven  and  sprinkling  with  boiling  butter; 
dress  the  marrow  toasts  with  the  ham  around;  pare  the  eggs  with  a  two  and  a  half  inch  pastry 
cutter,  lift  them  up  one  after  the  other  to  place  on  top  of  the  toast.  Dress  in  a  circle,  garnish 
around  with  the  tomatoes  and  serve  with  a  good  Madeira  sauce  (No.  492),  sprinkling  chopped 
parsley  over  the  whole. 

(2856).  BOILED  EGGS  ((Eufs  k  la  Coque), 

When  only  a  few  eggs  are  required  proceed  as  follows:  Boil  some  water  in  a  saucepan, 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  plunge  the  eggs  into  the  liquid  with  a  skimmer,  being  careful  not  to 
break  the  shells;  cover  the  saucepan  to  allow  the  water  to  boil  up  again,  and 
from  this  time  cook  the  eggs  for  three  minutes.  Should  they  be  large  or  freshly 
laid  take  the  saucepan  off  after  three  minutes,  leaving  the  eggs  one  minute 
longer  in  the  liquid. 

Eggs  may  also  be  plunged  into  cold  water,  put  over  a  brisk  fire  and  taken 

™,_  f/»A  OIL  at  tne  nrSu  ooii. 

FIG.  ow. 

Another  Way  is  to  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  and  let  cook  for  one  minute 
after  the  water  has  boiled  up  again,  then  withdraw  the  vessel  from  the  fire,  and  leave  them  in  the 
water  for  five  minutes.  Eggs  are  cooked  by  steam  in  four  minutes.  The  ordinary  method  is  the  first 
mentioned.  However  it  is  very  difficult  to  tell  exactly  how  long  to  boil  an  egg,  for  some  like  them 
scarcely  heated  through,  while  others  prefer  the  whites  slightly  hard.  Boiled  eggs  are  generally 
eaten  from  their  shells  with  a  spoon,  but  many  empty  the  contents  into  a  glass  or  cup,  seasoning 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  fresh  butter,  then  mixing  thoroughly.  Boiled  eggs  should  be  served 
in  folded  napkins  or  in  imitated  chickens  made  of  china. 


(2857).  HAKD-BOILED  EGGS  AND  AUKOKA  (CEufs  Durs  et  &  1'Aurore). 

These  should  not  be  cooked  too  long,  still  they  only  attain  a  proper  degree  after  they  have 
boiled  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  On  removing  from  the  fire  they  must  be  thrown  into  cold  water, 
and  left  to  cool  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes;  drain  and  shell,  without  injuring  any  of  the  white 
part,  which  should  remain  intact. 

Aurora. — Cut  lengthwise  in  halves  eight  hard-boiled  eggs;  take  out  the  yolks  and  divide 
each  halved  white  in  four  parts;  put  these  in  a  sautoir,  season  with  salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No. 
168)  and  nutmeg,  and  dilute  with  well-reduced  bechamel  (No.  409),  into  which  mix  finely  cut-up 
chives;  dress  this  in  a  baking  dish.  Rub  the  yolks  through  a  wire  sieve  directly  over  the  eggs, 
besprinkle  with  salt,  brush  over  with  hazel-nut  butter  (No.  567),  and  heat  for  a  few  moments  in  a 
hot  oven;  serve  at  once.  The  chives  may  be  replaced  by  mushrooms  and  truffles,  both  finely 
minced,  adding  to  the  bechamel  a  quarter  as  much  soubise  sauce  (No.  548)1 

(2858),  HAED-BOILED  EGGS  A  LA  BENNETT  ((Eufs  Dura  a  la  Bennett), 

Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  the  same  as  for  Aurora  (No.  2857);  shell  and  lay  them  in  tepid  water 
until  needed.  Mince  eight  ounces  of  white  onions,  blanch  for  a  few  moments  in  salted  water,  drain 
and  wipe  on  a  cloth;  lay  these  in  a  saucepan  on  a  fire  with  melted  butter;  fry  slowly  while  stirring 
until  they  be  cooked,  then  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  thicken  with  bechamel  (No.  409), 
having  reduced  it  with  a  little  mushroom  broth  and  melted  meat-glaze  (No.  402);  add  as  much 
minced  mushrooms  as  onions,  and  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  then  drain  the  eggs,  wipe  and  cut 
them  crosswise,  remove  the  yolks,  press  them  through  a  sieve  and  mix  well  with  the  sauce.  This 
sauce  must  be  succulent  but  not  too  thick;  strain  it  through  a  tammy.  Dress  the  white  parts  in 
layers  intercalated  with  the  onion  and  the  mushroom  stew  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(2859).  HAED-BOILED  EGGS  A  LA  BENOIST  ((Eufs  Durs  k  la  Benoist). 
Cook  six  eggs,  the  same  as  for  Aurora  (No.  2857):  shell  and  cut  them  lengthways  in  two;  re- 
move the  yolks  and  rub  these  through  a  sieve.  Prepare  a  well-reduced  bechamel  (No.  409)  thickened 
with  raw  egg-yolks;  when  cold  mix  in  the  six  cooked  egg-yolks,  as  much  mushrooms,  and  half  as 
many  truffles  as  mushrooms,  all  to  be  chopped  up  separately,  and  then  beat  in  three  very  stiffly 
beaten  egg-whites.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  dish  with  a  layer  of  veal  godiveau  (No.  85)  with  chives, 
having  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  replace  the  egg-yolks  by  a  little  montglas  and  fasten  the  two 
halves  together;  lay  these  reshaped  eggs  over  the  godiveau  and  cover  the  whole  with  the  beaten  egg 
preparation;  pour  over  butter,  push  in  a  moderate  oven  to  heat  the  eggs  well  and  color  them  nicely. 

(2860).  HARD-BOILED  EGGS  WITH  NOODLES  A  LA  OAEOLLI  ((Eufs  Durs  aux  Nouilles  a  la 

Oarolli). 

Blanch  some  finely  shredded  noodles  in  salted  water  for  three  minutes,  drain  and  lay  tlem  in 
a  saucepan  with  salt  and  nutmeg;  leave  to  simmer  for  a  few  moments,  then  range  them  on 
a  vegetable  dish  with  grated  parmesan  strewn  over.  Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  the  same  as 
Aurora  (No.  2857),  cut  them  across  in  slices,  dress  them  in  layers  over  the  noodles,  then  a  layer  of 
minced  fresh  mushrooms;  season  each  one  of  these  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and  mask  the 
surface  with  bechamel  (No.  409)  reduced  with  the  mushroom  broth,  seasoned  with  prepared  red 
pepper  (No.  168)  and  well  buttered.  Strew  the  top  with  grated  parmesan  and  melted  butter  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2861).  HAED-BOILED  EGGS  A  LA  GIBSON  ((Eufs  Durs  a  la  Gibson). 
Mince  some  drained,  blanched  celery-roots;  fry  them  colorless  in  butter,  then  oook  in  broth. 
(No.  194a)  with  a  little  sugar;  reduce  the  liquid  to  a  glaze,  add  some  bechamel  (No.  409)  and 
thicken  with  eight  hard  egg-yolks  pounded  with  as  much  butter  and  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve; 
add  also  the  whites  of  these  eight  eggs  minced  up  finely  and  mix  them  together  with  the  sauce. 
Butter  and  bread-crumb  eight  small  silver  shells  (Fig.  438);  fill  them  with  the  prepared  eggs,  strew 
bread-crumbs  and  parmesan  over,  baste  with  butter  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2862).  HAED-BOILED  EGGS  A  LA  WASHBUEN  ((Eufs  Durs  k  la  Washburn). 
Take  the  whites  ot  eight  hard-boiled  eggs;  cut  them  in  thin  slices  or  in  quarter-inch  dice,  also 
some  cooked  truffles  and  mushrooms;  with  these  fill  eight  medium-sized  shells  (Fig.  438),  alter- 
nating the  three  different  ingredients;    cover  with  some  reduced  soubise  (No.    543).     Smooth 


850  TME    EPICUREAN. 

to  a  dome  and  mask  this  with  a  thin  layer  of  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75);  dredge  white 
bread-crumbs  over  all,  pour  on  a  little  melted  butter  and  bake  for  two  minutes  in  the  oven;  serve 
at  once. 

(2863).  HARD-BOILED  EGG  CROQUETTES  (Croquettes  d'GEufs  Durs). 

Chop  twelve  cold  hard-boiled  eggs  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  also  half  a  pound  of  mush- 
rooms the  same  size.     Reduce  a  quart  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  season  and  add  to  it  a  little  meat 


FIG.  561. 

glaze  (No.  402)  and  chopped  truffles,  mix  in  the  egg  salpicon  and  take  off  at  the  first  boil.  When 
this  preparation  is  cold  form  it  into  croquettes,  either  round,  cylindrical  or  flat  ovals;  immerse 
them  in  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  salt  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin 
with  sprigs  of  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(2864).  HARD-BOILED  EGGS,  NEW  YORK  STYLE  (CBufs  Durs  k  la  New  Yorkaise). 

Have  six  eggs  boiled  hard,  the  same  as  for  Aurora  (No.  2857);  shell  and  split  them  lengthwise 
in  two;  remove  the  yolks  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  an  ounce  of  melted  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  two  raw  egg-yolks  and  a  gill  of  bechamel  (No.  409),  beating  the  whole  well  together;  then 
stir  in  half  as  much  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89).  Fill  the  halved  eggs  with  this  prep- 
aration, rounding  the  tops  well;  range  a  layer  of  this  same  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lay  the 
stuffed  eggs  over,  pour  on  some  butter  and  dredge  with  parmesan  cheese;  push  into  a  moderate 
oven  to  heat  and  brown  to  a  fine  color;  pour  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451)  around  and  serve. 

(2865).  HARD-BOILED  EGGS,  RUSSIAN  STYLE  (ffiufs  Durs  k  la  Russe.) 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  the  same  as  for  Aurora  (No.  2857);  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise,  remove 
the  yolks,  and  chop  up  separately  two  ounces  of  ham,  four  ounces  of  tongue,  and  four  ounces  of 
chicken,  mingling  all  together  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  pound  the  yolks  with  half  as  much 
butter.  Put  a  bed  of  the  chicken  salpicon  on  a  dish  capable  of  going  into  the  oven,  range  the  halved 
egg-whites  over  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  it;  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  parmesan 
cheese,  pour  over  butter  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven;  decorate  around  with  some  round  caviare 
canapes  (No.  777)  and  serve. 

(2866).  PRIED  EGGS  A  LA  EUGENE  ANDRE'  (ffiufs  Frits  Eugene  Andre"). 
Cut  tomatoes  in  two  through  their  thickness,  press  out  and  fry  in  oil  with  shallots,  a  little  gar- 
lic and  chopped  parsley;   finish  with  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402).     Dress  in  a  circle,  tilling  the 


FIG.  562. 

center  with  cepes  fried  in  oil,  with  fine  herbs,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  brown  sauce  (No.  414). 
Heat  some  butter  in  a  pan  and  when  very  hot  slip  in  the  eggs  broken  beforehand  on  a  plate;  season 
the  whites  with  salt  and  scald  the  yolks  with  boiling  butter;  when  the  eggs  are  fried,  slip  them 
over  the  tomatoes  and  cepes  and  serve. 

(2867).  PRIED  EGGS  A  LA  MONTEBELLO  (ffiufs  Frits  k  la  Montebello). 
Poach  some  eggs;  when  cold  pare  and  wipe   on  a  cloth;  season   and  roll  simply  in  flout 
then  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat,  and  as  soon  as  dry  and  nicely  colored  remove  with  a  skim- 
mer, drain  on  a  cloth  and  lay  each  one  on  a  plain  crouton  of  bread  sauted  in  clarified  butter. 
Dress  the  eggs  on  a  dish  and  cover  over  with  Montebello  sauce  (No.  502). 


851 


(2868).  IKIED  EGGS,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE,  TURNED  OYEE  ((Eufs  Frits  des  deux  Cot6s  a  la 

Napolitaine). 

Heat  either  oil,  lard  or  butter  in  a  small,  deep  pan;  incline  it  slightly,  and  break  an  egg  in 
the  liquid;  cook  and  bring  it  over  with  a  perforated  spoon  to  have  it  attain  a  long,  well-rounded 
shape;  as  soon  as  done  drain,  and  cook  another  one  the  same  way,  until  sufficient  are  ready,  and 
when  all  are  well  drained  lay  each  one  on  a  separate  crouton  (No.  51).  Dress  in  a  circle,  and 
fill  the  center  with  Neapolitan  macaroni  (No.  2960) ;  pour  over  the  eggs  some  tomato  sauce  (No. 
549)  reduced  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  good  gravy  (No.  404). 


(286S).  PRIED  EGGS  TURNED  OVER-A  LA  SOLE  ((Eufs  Frits  des  Deux  Cote^-a  la  Sole). 

Break  two  eggs  on  a  plate  and  season:  pour  some  clarified  butter  in  a  small  pan,  and  when  it 
reaches  hazel-nut  (No.  567),  slip  in  the  eggs  carefully,  and  pour  more  butter  over.  When  they  are 
cooked  underneath,  turn  them  over,  and  a  minute  after  slide  them  on  a  dish  with  the  butter; 
baste  over  with  a  coffeespoonf ul  of  good  vinegar  heated  in  a  pan. 

(2870).  FRIED  EGGS  WITH  BROWN  BUTTER  ((Eufs  Frits  au  Beurre  Noir). 
Break  four  or  five  eggs  into  a  frying  pan  containing  some  hot  butter;  scald  the  yolks  with  the 
butter,  and  cook  until  glossy;  season,  remove  carefully  with  a  large  skimmer,  and  lay  them  on  a 
dish.     Put  more  butter  into  the  pan,  and  when  slightly  brown  without  burning,  strain  it  over 
the  eggs;  put  a  little  vinegar  in  the  frying  pan,  and  pour  it  over  the  eggs  through  a  strainer. 

(2871).  FRIED  EGGS  WITH  CHOPPED  PARSLEY  ((Eufs  Frits  au    Persil  bache"). 
Heat  clarified  butter  in  a  small  pan;  break  two  very  fresh  eggs  on  a  plate,  season  with  salt,  and 
pour  them  carefully  in  the  pan;  fry  slowly,  and  then  slip  them  on  a  dish,  throwing  over  a  little 
chopped  parsley. 

(2872).  FRIED  EGGS  WITH  HAM  OR  BAOON  ((Eufs  Frits  au  Jambon  ou  au  Petit  SaleO. 
Broil  on  a  slow  fire  either  some  ham  or  bacon;  put  one  or  the  other  on  a  dish,  and  slip  fried 
eggs  over  it. 

(2873).  EGGS  MOLDED  A  LA  BEDFORD-IN  OOOOTTES  AND  EGGS  OOOOTTES  ((Eufs  Moulds  en 

Oocottes  a  la  Bedford  et  (Eufs  Gocottes). 

Cover  the  bottoms  and  sides  of  a  few  cocottes,  a  small  earthen  saucepan  standing  on  three 
feet,  able  to  go  in  the  oven  (Fig.  563),  with  a  layer  of  liver  baking  force- 
meat (No.  64),  thickened  with  a  little  raw  forcemeat  thinned  with  duxelle 
sauce  (No.  461)  and  Madeira  wine;  break  a  fresh  egg  over,  season  the 
white  with  salt  and  pour  a  little  hot  butter  over  the  top.  Place  these 
FlGt  563  cocottes  in  a  sautoir  containing  a  little  hot  water;  poach  the  eggs  for 

eight  to  ten  minutes  in  a  slack  oven,  and  after  removing  bestrew  with 

truffles  and  cooked  beef  tongue,  cut  either  in  small  dice  or  chopped  up;  dress  the  cocottes  on  a  dish 
or  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Eggs  Cocottes. — Have  small  cocottes  (Fig.  563);  butter  the  interiors  and  cover  the  bottoms  with 
a  preparation  made  with  a  few  finely  chopped  shallots,  slightly  fried  in  butter,  to  which  add  a  few 
finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms;  after  these  have  evaporated  all  their  moisture,  add  some  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  chopped  truffles.  Break  an  egg  in  each  cocotte,  pour  boiling  hot 
melted  butter  over  and  stand  the  cocottes  on  a  baking  sheet;  push  into  a  medium  hot  oven  for 
ten  minutes,  then  serve. 

(2874).   EGGS  MOLDED   A  LA  OOLBERT-IN 
OASES  ((Eufs  Mode's  en  Caisses  k  la  Colbert. 

Butter  a  few  china  cases,  covering  the  bottom 
and  sides  with  a  chopped  raw  truffle  preparation 
mingled  with  chicken  cream  forcemeat  (No.  75). 
In  the  hollow  center  of  each  break  a  fresh 
egg,  season  the  top  and  butter  over  with  a  brush;  place  the  cases  on  a  small  raised-edge  baking 
pan  having  hot  water  at  the  bottom,  and  poach  them  for  six  to  eight  minutes  in  a  slack  oven; 
after  removing  wipe  nicely  and  cover  the  tops  with  a  layer  of  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 


FIG.  564. 


852  THE 

(2875).  EGGS  MOLDED  A  L'E'OHIQUIER-IN  OASES  ((Eufs  Moulds  en  Oaisses  a  1'Echiquier). 

Prepare  a  paste  with  fresh  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  an  equal  amount  of  white  bread-crumbs, 
some  chopped  parsley  and  half  as  much  cooked  and  chopped  crawfish  or  lobster  tail.  With  this 
paste  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  some  round  china  cases  shaped  the  same  as  the  paper  cases 
shown  in  Fig.  439,  leaving  an  empty  space  in  the  center,  and  into  this  break  a  fresh  egg;  season 
and  cover  with  a  little  butter.  Set  the  cases  on  a  small  baking  pan  containing  a  little  hot  water, 
push  it  into  a  slack  oven  and  cook  the  eggs;  pour  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415),  over  each  egg, 
having  it  well  buttered  with  lobster  butter,  and  sprinkle  chopped  lobster  coral  over  the  whole. 

(2876).  EGGS  MOLDED  A  LA  PARISIAN,  ALSO  GALLED  TALLEYRAND,  POLIGNAO,  POLISH 

SOYER  ((Eufs  Moulds  &  la  Parisienne,  Dits  Talleyrand,  Polignac,  Soyer). 

Eggs  a  la  Parisienne  are  molded  in  mousseline  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  138),  or  else  in  oval  ones 
of  the  same  size.  Cut  two  truffles  into  small  dice;  butter  eight  molds,  strew  the  insides  with 
the  truffles  and  into  each  one  break  a  whole  fresh  egg,  salt  and  baste  the  top  with  a  little  butter; 
lay  the  molds  in  a  sautoir  with  hot  water  reaching  to  half  their  height,  and  poach  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  eight  to  ten  minutes;  when  done  to  perfection  turn  out  the  eggs  on  a  dish,  covering  the 
bottom  of  it  with  a  little  poivrade  sauce  (No.  522).  Instead  of  buttering  the  molds  they  may  be 
wetted  in  the  inside  with  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  bestrewn  with  chopped  parsley,  truffles, 
mushrbouis  or  cooked  red  beef  tongue,  or  else  a  mixture  of  all  these. 

12877).  EGGS  MOLDED  WITH  POIES-GRAS-IN  OASES  ((Eufs  Moulds  en  Oaisses  aux  Foies-Gras). 

Brush  over  with  butter  six  round  crimped  paper  cases  (Fig.  439)  having  them  three  inches  across 
at  the  opening,  two  at  the  bottom,  and  an  inch  and  a  quarter  high.  Rub  a  little  pate-de-foies-gras 
from  a  terrine  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  slowly  into  it  some  melted  glaze  (No.  402),  and  as 
much  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  as  foies-gras.  Spread  a  layer  of  this  on  the  bottom  of 
each  case,  poach  the  forcemeat  in  a  slack  oven,  and  then  break  an  egg  on  top  of  each  one;  scald 
the  yolks  with  hot  melted  butter  applied  with  a  brush;  season  the  whites  with  salt,  and  range 
the  cases  on  a  grate;  lay  this  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  cook  the  eggs  in  a  slow  oven  from  eight  to  ten 
minutes,  then  place  each  case  inside  another  paper  one,  having  it  larger  and  very  clean,  and  dress 
en  a  folded  napkin.  The  foies-gras  forcemeat  can  be  replaced  by  one  of  fish,  game  or  chicken,  with 
a  salpieca  of  either  shrimps,  mushrooms  or  truffles. 

(2878).  ARGENTINE  OMELET  (Omelette  a  1'Argentine). 

Break  six  fresh  eggs  in  a  bowl;  season  with  salt  and  white  pepper;  beat  with  a  whip  or  fork, 
and  strain  through  a  strainer  into  another  vessel;  beat  again  with  a  few  bits  of  butter  laid  here 
and  there.  Set  an  omelet  pan  on  a  hot  fire,  and  in  it  have  three  ounces  of  very  hot  butter;  skim,  then 
pour  in  the  eggs  all  at  once;  stir  lightly  with  a  spoon,  and  when  the  eggs  begin  to  thicken  bring 


FIG.  565. 


them  forward  in  the  pan;  fill  the  center  with  peeled  eggplant  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  fried  in 
butter  and  thickened  with  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400).  Close  the  omelet  with  a  single  stroke  of  the 
handle,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  with  the  spoon  close  it  entirely.  Put  more  butter  in 
the  pan,  and  incline  it  so  that  it  can  slip  under  the  omelet,  then  color  it  nicely,  and  turn  it  over 
on  a  dish;  garnish  around  with  an  Argentine  sauce  (No.  429). 

(2879).  BACON  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Petit  Sale"). 

For  three  raw  eggs  cut  one  ounce  of  bacon  in  quarter-inch  thick  slices;  suppress  the  rind,  and 
cut  into  small  quarter-inch  squares  after  paring  off  the  smoked  parts  that  cover  the  bacon;  fry  these 
pieces  in  butter,  add  the  eggs,  and  finish  the  same  as  parsley  omelet  (No.  2903). 


EG-G-S.  853 

(2880).  BEEF  PALATE  OE  LAMB'S  TEOTTEES  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Palais  de  Brauf  ou  aux 

Pieds  d'Agneau). 

Cut  some  beef  palates  or  boned  lamb's  trotters  in  quarter-inch  squares,  and  put  them  into  a 
bordelaise  sauce  (No.  436);  fill  the  interior  of  an  omelet  with  the  preparation,  pouring  the  sauce 
around. 

(2881).  BEETINI  OMELET  (Omelette  a  la  BertinU 

Prepare  and  cook  an  omelet  the  same  as  Argentine  (No.  2878).  Pour  into  a  risot,  thickened 
with  parmesan,  a  little  half-glaze  (No.  400)  and  veloute  (No.  415)  and  with  it  fill  the  omelet.  Cut 
some  celery  hearts  or  roots  in  quarter-inch  squares,  blanch,  cook  in  broth  (No.  194a)  and  let  fall  to 
a  glaze;  add  veloute  reduced  with  white  wine,  season  and  pour  this  around  the  dressed  omelet. 

(2882).  BONVALET  OMELET  (Omelette  Bonvalet). 

Fry  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  butter  with  two  ounces  of  chopped  morils  or  mush- 
rooms; add  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  marinated  tunny  fish  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares, 
meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  cooked  ham  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  pieces.  With  these  ingre- 
dients fill  an  omelet,  and  finish  it  the  same  as  an  Argentine  (No.  2878) ;  pour  around  an  espagnol« 
sauce  (No.  414)  containing  minced  gherkins. 

(2883).  CHEESE  OMELET-SWISS  OE  PAEMESAN-WITH  CETJSTS  AND  FONDUE  (Omelette  au 
Fromage  de  Gruyere  ou  au  Parmesan  aux  Oroutes  Garnies  de  Fondue). 

Beat  up  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  season;  mix  in  four  spoonfuls  of  fresh  Swiss  cheese  cut  up  in 
small  dice,  adding  two  spoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan,  and  also  one  of  grated  Swiss,  then  a  piece  of 
good  butter  divided  in  small  pats.  Make  the  omelet  over  a  good  fire,  fold  and  turn  it  on  to  an  oval 
dish;  surround  both  sides  with  small  round  hollowed  crusts  (No.  52)  filled  with  fondue  (No.  2954). 

(2884).  OHIOKEN  LIVEE  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Foies  de  Volaille). 

Cut  some  chicken  livers  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares;  saute  them  in  butter,  dilute  with 
a  little  Madeira  wine  and  half -glaze  (No.  400) ;  fill  the  inside  of  the  omelet  with  this,  and  finish  the 
same  as  Argentine  (No.  2878),  pouring  the  sauce  around. 

(2885).  OLAM  OMELET— HAED  AND  SOFT  (Omelette  aux  Lucines  Molles  et  Dures). 
Blanch  small  clams;  remove  the  hard  parts  and  mix  in  well-buttered  allemande  sauce  (No. 
407);  fill  the  inside  of  an  Argentine  omelet  with  this,  and  pour  what  remains  of  the  sauce  around. 

(2886).  OEEAM  OMELET— PLAIN  (Omelette  Nature  k  la  Oreme). 

Break  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  vessel,  season  and  beat  lightly,  mixing  in  a  few  small  pieces  of 
butter  and  two  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream.  Melt  some  fresh  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  pour  in  the  eggs, 
stir  quickly  with  a  large  spoon  and  thicken  properly,  keeping  the  omelet  mellow;  when  it  detaches 
from  the  bottom  bring  it  forward  to  roll  over;  turn  it  rapidly  on  a  long  dish  and  form  it  prettily, 
shaping  the  ends  under  so  as  to  have  them  pointed;  brush  the  surface  with  melted  butter  and 
throw  over  some  chopped  parsley. 

(2887).  DESJAEDINS  OMELET  (Omelette  k  la  Desjardins). 

Fry  in  oil  (for  three  eggs)  one  peeled  tomato  cut  across  in  two,  pressed  and  divided  in  small 
three-eighth  inch  squares,  half  as  much  minced  fresh  mushrooms,  a  little  onion  cut  in  squares  and 
fried  in  butter,  olives  cut  in  eight  pieces,  salt,  cayenne,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley  and  meat-glaze 
(No.  402).  With  this  preparation  fill  the  inside  of  a  parsley  omelet  (No.  2903);  decorate  the  top 
with  thin  anchovy  fillets  to  imitate  lozenges;  fill  each  one  of  these  through  a  cornet  with  solid 
tomatoed  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  and  on  each  point  set  a  little  bit  of  chopped  parsley;  pour 
around  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  finished  with  lemon  juice  and  plenty  of  butter. 

(2888).  DUXELLE  OE  COOKED  FINE  HEEB  OMELET  (Omelette  k  la  Duxelle  ou  aux  Fines  Herbes 

Ouites). 

Chop  up  some  onions  and  shallots  very  small;  fry  them  in  a  little  grated  fat  pork  or  butter,  put 
in  some  finely  chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  and  when  these  have  evaporated  their  moisture  add  some 


854  THE    EPICUREAN. 

chopped  parsley  and  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles,  mixing  in  a  little  veloute  sauce  (No.  415). 
Prepare  the  omelet  the  same  as  the  parsley  and  fill  it  with  the  preparation;  surround  each  side 
•with  hollow  half-round-shaped  crusts  (No.  52)  to  be  filled  with  tomato  puree  (No.  730). 

(2889).  FINE  HEEB  OMELET -EAW  (Omelette  aux  Pines  Herbes  Orues). 
Chop  or  cut  finely  some  fine  herbs,  such  as  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon  and  chives;  mix  them  in 
with  the  eggs,  and  finish  the  same  as  the  parsley  omelet,  or  either  of  these  herbs  may  be  used  sep- 
arately in  making  a  chervil,  tarragon  or  chive  omelet. 

(2890).  FEOG  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Grenouilles). 

Saute  some  large  frogs  in  butter,  bone  and  lay  the  meats  in  a  sautoir,  adding  well-buttered 
allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  and  soubise  sauce  (No.  543),  half  of  each.  Fill  and  finish  an  omelet  the 
same  as  the  parsley  omelet  (No.  2903),  and  pour  around  half  supreme  sauce  (No.  547)  and  half 
soubise  sauce,  keeping  it  rather  thin. 

(2891).  OMELET,  GEEMAN  STYLE  (Omelette  a  I'Allemande). 

Dilute  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  bowl  with  two  whole  eggs,  one  yolk  and  a  gill  of  cream, 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  strain  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  and  then  add  finely  cut-up  chives.  Put 
four  ounces  of  clarified  butter  in  a  pan  to  heat,  pour  in  the  preparation,  spreading  it  over  the 
entire  surface  of  the  pan;  prick  the  omelet  as  fast  as  it  swells  up,  and  turn  it  over  when  of  a  fine 
color;  add  a  little  more  butter  and  brown  nicely  on  the  other  side  before  serving.  With  this 
quantity  several  omelets  can  be  obtained. 

(2892).  GEEEN  OMELET  WITH  FINE  HEEBS,  SPINACH,  OE  WITH  SOEEEL  CEUSTS  (Omelette 

r 

Verte  aux  Fiues  Herbes  aux  Oroutes  d'Epinards  ou  d'Oseille). 

Chop  up  parsley  leaves,  chervil,  tarragon  and  clean  sorrel  leaves,  put  them  into  a  saucer  and 
mix  in  some  finely  shredded  chives.  Break  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl,  mix  with  them  the  chopped  herbs, 
season  and  beat;  melt  some  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  pour  in  the  eggs  and  stir  with  a  fork  to 
thicken;  as  soon  as  the  omelet  detaches  from  the  pan  fold  over  and  turn  it  out  on  a  long  dish; 
moisten  the  top  with  a  brush  dipped  in  maltre-d'hotel  butter  (No.  581)  and  surround  with  some 
hollowed-out  bread-crusts  filled  in  \\ith  a  fine  pure"e  of  spinach  (No.  729);  glaze  these  over  also. 

With  Sorrel. — Chop  up  a  full  handful  of  sorrel  leaves,  free  of  stalks;  after  having  them  well 
washed  and  cleansed,  fry  in  butter  and  mix  with  beaten  eggs.  Make  an  omelet  the  same  as  the 
above  and  serve  without  any  garnishing. 

(2893).  HAM  AND  GEEEN  PEA  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Jambon  et  aux  Petits  Pois). 

Make  an  omelet  with  three  eggs  the  same  as  a  parsley  omelet  (No.  2903),  only  suppressing  the 
parsley;  when  done,  and  before  folding  it,  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  in  three- 
sixteenths  inch  squares,  or  else  only  one  spoonful  and  one  of  green  peas  cooked  English  style  (No. 
2742). 

(2894).  HAVANESE  OMELET  (Omelette  Havanaise). 

Chop  up  some  chicken  livers  and  mushrooms;  fry  the  livers  in  butter,  add  the  mushrooms  and 
moisten  with  port  wine  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414),  then  reduce.  Cut  some  peeled  tomatoes  in 
two,  press  to  extract  the  juice  and  fry  them  in  oil,  also  sweet  Spanish  peppers.  Fill  the  inside  of 
an  omelet  with  the  tomatoes,  the  chopped  liver,  the  sweet  peppers  and  the  mushrooms;  finish  the 
same  as  the  Argentine  (No.  2878).  Surround  the  omelet  with  the  peppers  and  pour  over  a  little 
thin  Colbert  sauce  (No.  451). 

(2895).  SMOKED  HEEEING  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Harengs  Saurs). 

Pour  three  ounces  of  partly  molted  butter  in  a  vessel,  beat  it  up  with  a  spoon,  mixing  in  with 
it  four  egg-yolks,  one  after  the  other.  When  the  preparation  becomes  frothy,  add  to  it  two  small 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  lastly  three  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites.  Mix  into  this 
paste  the  fillets  of  four  smoked  herrings  heated  in  the  steam  of  boiling  water  until  the  skin  is 
sufficiently  softened  to  remove,  then  cut  them  into  large  dice,  suppressing  all  the  bones.  Butter  the 
bottom  of  a  large  frying  pan  with  melted  butter  put  on  with  a  brush,  and  when  hot  pour  in  the 
preparation;  cook  the  omelet  in  a  slack  oven,  pricking  it  several  times  with  a  fork;  brush  the  top 
with  butter  and  slide  it  on  a  dish. 


EG-G-S.  855 

(2896).  HUNTER'S  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Chasseur). 

Mince  some  cepes  finely;  fry  them  in  oil  over  a  hot  fire  with  a  little  garlic,  salt  and  pepper; 
add  these  to  an  omelet  prepared  as  follows:  Fry  a  little  bread-crumbs  or  small  croutons  in  butter, 
mix  them  into  beaten  eggs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  make  the  omelet  as  explained  for 
parsley  omelet  (No.  2903).  Fill  the  omelet  with  the  cepes.  Pour  a  hunter's  sauce  (No.  480)  around 
when  dressed. 

(2897).  KIDNEY  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Rognons). 

Use  either  veal  or  mutton  kidneys;  cut  them  up  small,  saute  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  drain 
and  put  them  back  into  the  pan  with  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  white  wine;  take  out  the 
kidneys,  reduce  the  sauce,  butter  it  and  replace  the  kidneys  to  warm  up  again,  then  fill  the  inside 
of  an  omelet  with  the  preparation,  and  finish  it  as  the  Argentine  (No.  2878),  pouring  the  sauce 
around  just  when  ready  to  serve. 

(2898).  OMELET  A  LA  ANDREWS  (Omelette  a  la  Andrews). 

Have  a  chicken  hash  prepared  as  for  No.  2292;  with  it  fill  a  slightly  cooked  omelet  prepared 
the  same  as  an  Argentine  (No.  2878);  invert  it  on  a  dish  that  may  be  placed  in  the  oven.  Koll 
some  noodle  paste  (No.  142)  out  very  thin;  allow  it  to  dry  a  little  in  the  air,  roll  it  on  itself  to 
facilitate  mincing  it  finely,  then  boil  in  salted  water,  drain  and  replace  it  in  the  saueepan  with 
milk,  white  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg  and  butter;  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes  so  that  nearly  all  the 
milk  is  absorbed,  then  cover  the  omelet  with  these  noodles,  bestrew  with  bread-crumbs  and  par- 
mesan  cheese,  sprinkle  butter  over  and  let  brown  in  a  hot  oven;  pour  around  a  little  bigarde 
sauce  (No.  435). 

(2899).  MUSHROOM  OR  SWEETBREAD  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Champignons  ouaux  Risde  Veau). 
Cut  up  some  mushrooms  or  cooked  sweetbreads  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407),  season,  fill  an  omelet  with  either  the  mushrooms  or  the  sweetbreads  and  finish  by 
pouring  the  sauce  around. 

(2900).  ONION  AND  HAM  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Oignons  et  au  Jambon). 

Mince  finely  four  ounces  of  white  onions  (new  ones  if  in  season);  fry  them  slowly  in  butter 
or  oil,  stirring  until  they  become  tender  and  lightly  colored,  then  add  two  ounces  of  cooked  lean 
ham  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares;  drain  off  the  whole.  Break  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sugar;  beat  them  up  well  and  run  through  a  colander,  then  add  the  onion, 
the  ham  and  some  chopped  parsley.  Heat  a  little  butter  in  a  pan,  pour  the  eggs  in  and  make  the 
omelet  over  a  hot  fire  without  ceasing  to  stir,  keeping  it  mellow;  fold  over  and  turn  it  with  one 
stroke  on  a  long  dish;  decorate  with  strings  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  put  on  with  a  brush. 

(2901).  OYSTER  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Huitres). 

Blanch  raw  oysters  in  their  own  liquor;  drain  and  roll  in  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  or  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  409)  reduced  with  the  oyster  liquor,  thickening  with  raw  egg-yolks;  dilute  with  a  little 
cream  and  fresh  butter  and  finish  the  same  as  an  Argentine  omelet  (No.  2878). 

(2902).  OMELET  WITH  CAVIARE  A  LA  STOEOKEL  (Omelette  au  Caviar  a  la  Stoeckel). 

Dilute  some  caviare  gradually  with  cream  bechamel  (No.  411)  and  with  it  fill  a  chopped  pars- 
ley omelet  (No.  2903).  Blanch  a  few  cucumbers  cut  the  shape  of  cloves  of  garlic,  cook  in  white 
broth  (No.  194a)  and  have  them  so  that  when  done  the  liquid  has  fallen  to  a  glaze;  remoisten 
with  sour  cream  sauce;  place  these  cucumbers  around  the  omelet. 

(2903).  PARSLEY  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Persil). 

Parsley  omelet  is  frequently  confounded  with  fine  herb  omelet.  Use  only  eggs,  seasoning 
and  chopped  parsley.  Chop  up  some  very  green  fresh  parsley,  put  it  into  the  corner  of  a  napkin 
and  dip  this  in  several  waters;  remove  the  cloth  at  once  and  squeeze  out  all  the  moisture.  Break 
eight  eggs  into  a  vessel,  add  the  parsley,  also  pepper  and  salt.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  pan,  pour  in 
the  beaten  eggs  and  set  it  on  the  open  fire;  move  the  pan  rapidly  with  the  left  hand,  using  a 
stew-spoon  in  the  right  hand.  When  the  omelet  is  done  fold  it  on  both  ends,  turn  it  over  on  to  a 
dish  and  shape  it  prettily. 


856  THE:  EPICUREAN. 

(2904).  PHYSIOLOGICAL  OMELET  (Omelette  Physiologique), 

Blanch  some  oysters  or  mussels  in  their  own  liquor;  drain  and  cut  into  pieces,  removing  the 
feet  from  the  mussels  and  the  muscles  from  the  oysters;  add  as  much  marinated  tunny  fish  and 
as  much  fresh  smoked  herring  meat  and  carp  milt  cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  dice.  Fry  some 
shallots  in  butter,  add  the  oysters,  milt,  herring  and  tunny  fish,  all  cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
squares,  also  parsley,  chives,  chopped  mushrooms,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice.  Fill  an 
omelet  with  this  preparation,  the  same  as  an  Argentine  (No.  2878),  and  pour  around  a  rather  thin 
cream  bechamel  (No.  411). 

(2905).  SAUSAGE  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Sancisses). 

Sausage  omelets  can  be  made  with  Lubeck,  Frankfort  or  fresh  sausages.  For  the  unsmoked 
ones,  first  broil  them,  then  take  off  the  skins  and  cut  them  up  into  small  pieces.  For  Lubeck  sau- 
sages, fry  them  in  a  pan,  then  cut  them  up.  Plunge  Frankfort  sausages  into  boiling  water,  peel  off 
the  skin  and  divide  the  meats  into  small  bits.  Mix  either  of  this  with  the  uncooked  omelet  and 
finish  the  same  as  a  parsley  omelet  (No.  2903). 

(2906).  SHRIMP  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Orevettes). 

Cut  each  shrimp  in  quarter-inch  squares  and  mingle  with  an  allemande  sauce  (No.  407)  well 
buttered  with  lobster  butter  (No.  580);  season,  adding  lemon  juice,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve 
fill  the  omelet  with  the  same  and  finish  as  for  an  Argentine  omelet  (No.  2878);  pour  the  sauce 
around.  The  shrimps  may  be  replaced  by  lobster  or  hard-shell  crab  meat. 

(2907).  SPANISH  OMELET  (Omelette  a  1'Espagnole). 

This  is  to  be  prepared  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion,  as  much  peeled  and  cut-up  green 
pepper,  half  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic  and  one  peeled  tomato  cut  across  in  two,  pressed  and 
divided  into  quarter-inch  squares;  fry  the  onion,  garlic  and  the  pepper  colorless  in  oil,  add  the 
tomatoes  and  cover  the  saucepan;  let  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Break  six  eggs  in  a  bowl,  beat  well,  season  and  mix  in  a  third  part  of  the  preparation.  Make  a 
mellow  omelet,  fill  the  center  with  the  solid  remaining  part  and  pour  the  sauce  around  the  whole. 
Instead  of  mixing  the  tomato  preparation  with  the  eggs  the  omelet  can  be  filled  with  it  when  made. 
Pour  around  a  little  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413). 

(2908).  TEUFFLE  OMELET  (Omelette  aux  Trufles). 

Mince  some  cooked  peeled  truffles  and  put  them  in  a  sautoir  to  mingle  with  either  allemande 
sauce  (No.  407)  or  else  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  Madeira.  Fill  the  inside  of  an  omelet  with 
these  truffles  and  pour  the  sauce  around. 

(2909).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH  (ffiufs  sur  le  Plat), 

There  is  very  little  difference  between  eggs  on  a  dish  or  miroir  eggs,  for  they  are  both  cooked 
the  same  way,  the  only  difference  being  that  the  first  ones  are  served  on  the  same  dish  they  are 


Fia.  566.  FIG.  667. 

cooked  in,  while  the  miroir  eggs  are  basted  with  boiling  butter  while  cooking  and  cut  in  rounds  as 
soon  as  done  with  a  two  and  a  half  inch  pastry  cutter;  take  them  up  with  a  palette  and  serve  on 
a  plate  or  dish. 

To  Prepare  Eggs  on  a  Dish. — These  eggs  should  be  cooked  in  china  egg  dishes  (Fig.  567);  to 
do  them  properly  first  butter  the  dish  with  fresh  or  unsalted  butter,  break  the  eggs  into  the  dish, 
and  salt  over  the  whites  but  not  the  yolks  so  as  not  to  discolor  them;  set  the  dish  on  a  thick, 
cold  baking  sheet  and  push  it  at  once  into  the  oven  so  that  they  receive  more  heat  from  the  top 
than  bottom;  as  soon  as  the  yolks  are  glossy  remove  the  dish  from  the  oven  and,  if  necessary, 
finish  cooking  on  top,  being  careful  not  to  have  the  whites  done  too  much.  Eggs  cooked  in  this 
way  are  generally  served  on  the  same  dish,  with  or  without  a  garnishing. 


EOOS.  85? 

(2910).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  BERCY  (QEufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Bercy), 

Fry  in  a  pan  two  or  three  sausages;  pour  the  fat  into  a  small  egg  dish  (Fig.  567),  leaving  the 
sausages  in  the  pan,  then  break  four  eggs  into  the  dish.  Pour  over  some  melted  butter,  salt  over 
the  whites  and  cook  in  the  range  oven,  leaving  them  in  till  they  are  glossy.  Skin  the  sausages, 
cut  them  up  and  dress  around  the  eggs,  serving  with  a  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  tomato  sauce 
(No.  549),  reduced  together  and  strained  through  a  fine  sieve. 

(2911).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  BIENYENUE  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Bienvenne), 
Lay  through  a  pocket  on  the  inside  edge  of  the  basin  of  a  dish  a  border  made  of  potato 
croquette  preparation  (No.  2782)  softened  with  an  egg;  fill  the  center  of  this  border  with  a  bed  of 
duxelle  or  cooked  fine  herbs  (No.  385);  break  over  some  raw  eggs  without  injuring  the  yolks, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  in  the  center  of  the  yolks;  dredge  with  grated  Swiss  cheese, 
pour  on  some  butter  and  cook  the  eggs  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  as  soon  as  removed. 

(2912).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  OONDJG  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Conde). 

Through  a  pocket  provided  with  a  channeled  socket  form  a  border  of  chicken  quenelle  force- 
meat (No.  89)  and  baking  forcemeat  (No.  81),  well  mixed  together,  laying  it  in  the  inside  of  the 
basin  of  the  dish.  Butter  the  bottom  of  this  dish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  break  in  a 
sufficiency  of  eggs  without  disturbing  the  yolks;  strew  the  whites  with  duck's  liver  cut  in  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  squares,  and  over  the  whole  scatter  grated  parmesan  cheese;  pour  on  some  butter 
and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  Garnish  around  with  three-quarters  of  an  inch  round  chicken  croquettes. 

(2913).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  CREOLE  STYLE  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Creole). 
Fry  colorless  in  oil  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions,  as  much  finely  cut-up  hot  pepper,  a 
quarter  of  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic  and  a  peeled  tomato  cut  in  two,  pressed  out,  then  divided  into 
small  squares;  simmer,  reduce,  and  when  of  a  sufficient  consistency  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cooked  rice,  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  With  this  preparation  cover  the  bottom  of  a  dish  fit  for  the 
oven;  break  over  the  eggs  carefully,  keeping  the  yolks  entire,  pour  on  melted  butter,  season  with 
salt  on  the  white  of  the  eggs,  and  in  the  center  of  the  yolk  put  a  little  pepper,  and  cook  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

(2914).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  ENGLISH  STYLE  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  1'Anglaise). 
Suppress  the  rind  from  some  bacon,  cut  it  up  very  thin  and  fry  in  butter  without  browning. 
Break  some  eggs  into  a  buttered  china  egg  dish  (Fig.  567),  season  the  whites  with  a  little  salt  only, 
and  the  yolks  with  a  little  pepper  placed  in  the  center;  cook  in  the  oven,  having  more  heat  on  top 
than  on  the  bottom.     Serve  as  soon  as  done,  surrounded  with  the  bacon. 

(2915).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  FERMIERE  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Fermiere). 
Cut  the  gall  from  one  chicken  liver,  mince  the  latter  and  put  it  into  a  pan  with  butter  and 
a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions;  season  and  cook,  but  not  too  quickly,  while  turning  over;  remove  the 
liver  with 'a  skimmer  and  put  one  spoonful  of  chopped-up  mushrooms  into  the  pan;  let  the  moisture 
reduce.  Place  this  in  the  bottom  of  an  egg  dish,  on  this  the  liver,  break  two  eggs  over,  season, 
pour  over  some  melted  butter  and  cook  in  the  oven. 

(2916).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  MONACO  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Monaco). 

Put  into  a  sautoir  one  gill  of  tomato  juice  and  a  spoonful  of  melted  glaze  (No.  402);  add  a 
small  bunch  of  aromatic  herbs  and  tarragon  leaves,  reduce  the  liquid  until  it  is  the  consistency  of  a 
syrup,  then  take  out  the  herbs  and  pour  the  liquid  into  a  large  egg  dish.  Break  six  eggs  in  a  dish, 
salt  the  whites,  pour  over  some  melted  butter  and  cook  in  the  oven  until  they  become  glossy. 

(2917).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  OMER  PACHA  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Omer  Pacha). 

Melt  a  little  butter  on  a  dish  that  can  go  in  the  oven;  when  heated  break  in  twelve  eggs,  ore 
beside  the  other,  keeping  the  yolks  whole;  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  five  to  six  minutes.  Fry  in 
butter  two  ounces  of  chopped  onions  and  as  much  cut-up  green  peppers,  add  three  gills  of  tomato 
sauce  (No.  549)  and  half  the  quantity  of  half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  white  wine;  reduce,  not 
having  it  too  thick,  then  add  bacon  prepared  by  mincing  unsmoked  bacon;  fry  it  in  butter,  moisten 
with  gravy  (No.  404)  and  Madeira  wine,  then  cook  and  reduce  the  moistening  entirely;  pour  this 
prepared  sauce  over  the  eggs  or  else  serve  in  a  separate  sauce-boat. 


858  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2918).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  PLTJMEKEY  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Plumerey), 
Remove  the  whites  from  four  eggs,  keeping  the  yolks  in  their  shells;  mix  with  these  whites 
half  a  gill  of  soubise  (No.  723)  and  half  a  gill  of  tomato  puree  (No.  730);  butter  a  dish  plentifully 
and  pour  into  it  the  white  of  eggs,  soubise  and  tomato  mixture.  Lay  the  yolks  over  and  cook  in  a 
slack  oven,  bestrewing  the  top  with  raw  fine  herbs.  Between  each  yolk  place  a  round  croquette  an 
inch  in  diameter,  made  of  grated  cooked  ham  mixed  with  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409). 

(2919).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  EOSSINI  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Rossini). 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  break  on  it  four  eggs,  being  careful  to  keep  the  yolks  whole. 
Fry  some  fat  chicken  livers  cut  in  escalops  that  have  been  seasoned  and  rolled  in  flour;  garnish 
around  the  eggs  with  these.  Cook  the  eggs  in  a  moderate  oven,  cover  the  livers  with  Perigueux 
sauce  (No.  517)  and  serve. 

(2920),  EGGS  ON  A  DISH,  VENETIAN  STYLE  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  a  la  Vemtienne), 

Cut  in  dice  pieces  equal  quantities  of  anchovy  fillets,  broiled  and  peeled  sweet  peppers  from 
which  the  seeds  have  been  removed  and  good  sound  tomatoes,  scalded,  peeled  and  the  liquid 
squeezed  out.  Bestrew  the  bottom  of  an  egg  dish  with  these  ingredients,  pour  over  some 
oil  and  heat  lightly.  Break  four  eggs  into  the  dish,  season  the  whites,  and  cook  in  the  oven;  when 
removed  lay  the  dish  inside  of  another  and  serve. 


(2921).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH  WITH  BACON  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  au  Petit 
Butter  the  dish,  break  in  the  eggs  without  spoiling  the  yolks,  season  and  set  for  an  instant  on 
the  fire  and  finish  cooking  in  the  oven;  surround  with  slices  of  broiled  smoked  bacon. 

(2922).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH  WITH  CEPES  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  aux  Oepes). 

Peel  and  chop  up  two  or  three  cepes  heads;  melt  some  butter  in  a  large  egg  dish,  bestrew  the 
bottom  with  chopped  cepes  and  these  with  parsley;  season  and  heat  for  two  minutes.  Break  six 
eggs  into  this  dish,  and  cook  in  the  oven,  having  them  glossy.  Eggs  can  also  be  prepared  with 
canned  mushrooms. 

(2923).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH  WITH  CHOPPED  HAM  ((Eufs  sur  !e  Plat  au  Jambon  Hacha 
Butter  the  bottom  of  a  small  egg  dish  (Fig.  567),  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  cooked  and  chopped 
lean  ham  and  over  this  pour  a  little  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402).     Break  four  eggs  into  the  dish, 
salt  the  whites,  and  cook  in  the  range  oven,  letting  them  get  glossy  on  top.     They  may  also  be 
prepared  with  boiled  tongue  instead  of  ham. 

(2924).  EGGS  ON  A  DISH  WITH  TOMATOES  ((Eufs  sur  le  Plat  aux  Tomates). 
Scald  two  small  partly  ripe  tomatoes  in  order  to  remove  the  skins,  divide  each  one  in  two,  cut 
them  up  small,  salt  over  and  drain  in  a  sieve;  saute  in  butter  and  range  them  on  the  bottom  of  a 
small  buttered  egg  dish  (Fig.  567);  break  four  eggs  into  this,  salt  the  whites,  scald  the   yolks  and 
cook  in  the  oven,  glossing  the  tops. 

(2925).  POACHED  EGGS  A  LA  BOELDIEU  AND  EGGS  A  LA  BENEDICK  ((Eufs  Poke's  a  la 

Boeldieu  et  (Eufs  a  la  Benedick). 

Poach  two  or  three  eggs;  scald  two  tomatoes  just  sufficiently  to  be  able  to  peel  off  the  skins; 

drain  and  cut  them  in  slices,  then  in  dice;  put  the 
pieces  in  a  pan  with  oil  and  saute"  on  a  brisk  fire 
until  they  have  reduced  their  humidity  without 
dissolving;  season  highly,  and  bestrew  with 
chopped  parsley.  With  these  tomatoes  fill  two  or 
three  hollowed-out  bread  crusts  (No.  52),  and  on 

each  lay  one  of  the  poached  eggs  heated  at  the  oven  door,  basting  them  over  with  good  reduced 
veloute"  sauce  (No.  415);  range  these  crusts  on  separate  plates. 

Eggs  it  la  Benedick.—  Cut  some  muffins  in  halves  crosswise,  toast  them  without  allowing  to 
brown,  then  place  a  round  of  cooked  ham  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  of  the  same  diameter  as 
the  muffins  on  each  half.  Heat  in  a  moderate  oven  and  put  a  poached  egg  on  each  toast.  Cover 
the  whole  with  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  501). 


EG-G-S.  859 

(2926).  POACHED  EGGS  A  LA  BOUKGUIGtfONNE— BAKED  ((Eufs  Poke's  a  la  Bourguignoune 

au  Gratin), 

Boil  water  in  a  saucepan;  add  salt  and  a  dash  of  vinegar.  Crack  six  very  fresh  eggs  and  drop 
them  slowly  in  a  deep  dish,  keeping  them  whole;  slip  them  into  the  boiling  water,  and  when  done, 
and  found  to  be  of  a  proper  consistency,  remove  them  with  a  skimmer,  and  transfer  to  cold  water; 
pare  each  one  singly.  Butter  thoroughly  a  baking  dish,  bestrew  it  with  bread-crumbs  and  then  a 
layer  of  grated  parmesan;  pour  over  butter,  and  lay  on  the  eggs;  mask  them  with  a  well-seasoned 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  sprinkle  with  grated  parmesan  and  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When 
done  strew  over  some  chopped  fine  herbs  and  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 


(2927).  POACHED  EGGS  A  LA  MIEABEAU  ((Eufs  Poch^s  a  la  Mirabeau). 
Prepare  a  cooked  foies-gras  and  cut  seven  or  eight  oval-shaped  slices  of  the  same  dimensions 
as  the  poached  eggs;  pound  the  parings  of  liver  with  two  pounded  raw  peeled  truffles,  season  and 
add  a  spoonful  of  raw  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  and  two  egg-yolks;  put  this  into  a  strong 
paper  cornet  and  push  it  through  to  form  a  high  string  all  around  the  upper  edges  of  the  slices 
of  foies-gras.  Kange  these  on  a  small  raised  baking  sheet,  having  the  bottom  covered  with  a  thin 
layer  of  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  reduced  with  Madeira  wine;  keep  for  two  minutes  in  a  slack 
oven  to  warm  the  liver  and  poach  the  forcemeat.  Remove  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  placing  a 
poached  egg  on  each  one;  heat  at  the  oven  door  while  basting  over  with  good  veloute  sauce  (No. 
415). 


(2928).  POACHED  EGGS  A  LA  VILLEEOI  ((Eufs  Poche"s  a  la  Villeroi), 

Poach  seven  or  eight  eggs  just  sufficiently  not  to  have  the  whites  break;  when  refreshed,  parea 
and  well  wiped,  dip  them  one  by  one  into  a  thick  Villeroi  sauce  (No.  560);  range  as  fast  as  they  are 
done  on  a  small  baking  sheet,  slightly  apart,  and  leave  until  the  sauce  hardens,  then  detach  the 
eggs  from  the  sheet,  suppress  the  superfluous  sauce,  and  roll  them  first  in  fresh  bread-crumbs 
mingled  with  parmesan,  then  in  beaten  eggs;  lastly  plunge  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  into  plenty  of 
hot  frying  fat  to  cook  to  a  good  color;  drain  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  thin  bed  of  chicken  quenelle 
forcemeat  (No.  89)  poached  on  a  dish  to  prevent  the  eggs  from  slipping  off;  surround  each  one 
with  a  string  of  consistent  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  mixed  with  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433).  Serve 
at  once. 

(2929).  POACHED  EGGS  A  LA  WEIGHT  SANPOED  ((Eufs  Poch6s  a  la  Wright  Sanford). 

Blanch  some  straight  thick  vermicelli  in  boiling  water  for  two  minutes  ;  drain  and  return 
them  to  the  saucepan,  adding  fresh  mushrooms  previously  minced,  washed,  drained,  fried  in 
butter,  and  moistened  with  a  little  Madeira  wine  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  and  reduced;  season, 
then  dress  the  whole  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  garnish  around  with  poached  eggs  (No.  2931). 

(2930).  POACHED  EGGS,  MATELOTE  ((Eufs  Poches  Matelote). 

Poach  some  eggs  the  same  as  for  poached  eggs  with  gravy  (No.  2931);  prepare  and  fry  in  clarified 
butter  some  oval  crusts  (No.  52)  measuring  two  and  a  quarter  by  two  and  three-quarter  inches. 
Cook  in  butter  one  minced  onion,  add  to  it  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf, 
and  a  clove  of  garlic  and  mushroom  peelings;  moisten  with  red  wine  and  thicken  with  kneaded 
butter  (No.  579);  boil  all  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  skim  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy;  add  small 
cooked  mushroom  heads  and  small  glazed  onions.  Dress  the  eggs  on  the  fried  crusts;  range  them 
in  a  circle,  and  pour  the  garnishing  in  the  center. 

(2931).  POACHED  EGGS  WITH  GRAVY  ((Eufs  Poch6s  au  Jus). 

The  eggs  must  be  very  fresh  and  selected  of  uniform  size.  Only  a  few  at  a  time  can  be 
poached.  Boil  some  salted  water  acidulated  with  vinegar  in  a  saucepan;  quickly  crack  three  or 
four  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  on  the  edge  of  the  saucepan;  open  and  drop  them  over  the  water  exactly 
in  the  spot  where  it  bubbles;  with  a  small,  deep,  long-shaped  skimmer  gather  the  egg  together, 
turning  it  incessantly,  so  that  it  assumes  a  long  form,  then  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire 


860  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

until  the  envelope  of  the  yolk  be  sufficiently  hardened  not  to  break.  The  difficulty  consists  in  giving 
the  egg  a  sufficient  solidity  without  allowing  the  yolks  to  harden,  for  these  should  remain  perfectly 
mellow.  As  soon  as  each  egg  is  done,  lift  it  up  delicately  with  the  skimmer  and  drop  it  in  a 
plentiful  supply  of  cold  water  so  that  it  hardens,  then  take  it  up  very  carefully,  pare  neatly,  and 
return  it  at  once  into  cold  water.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  warm  the  poached  eggs,  either  in 
their  own  water  that  lias  been  strained  through  a  sieve,  or  on  a  small  baking  tin,  in  a  slack  oven; 
dress  them  in  a  vegetable  dish  and  baste  over  with  clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  serve.  Poached  eggs 
are  also  served  simply  on  slices  of  toast,  without  any  sauce  whatever. 

(2932).  POACHED  EGGS  WITH  PUREE  OF  CHICKEN  SUPKEME  ((Eufs  Poohfe  a  la  Puree  de 

Volatile  Supreme). 

Poach  eight  eggs,  the  same  as  for  those  poached  with  gravy  (No.  2931);  prepare  some  croustades, 
either  of  bread  or  paste,  and  fill  them  half  full  with  chicken  puree  (No.  713),  having  all  very  hot; 
lay  on  the  well-drained  poached  eggs,  thoroughly  heated  at  the  oven  door,  and  cover  with  buttered 
supreme  sauce  (No.  547). 

They  can  also  be  prepared  with  a  puree  of  mushrooms  (No.  722),  game  (No.  716)  or  truffles 
(No.  731). 

(2933).  POACHED  EGGS  WITH  SPINACH  ((Eufs  Poche"s  aux  Epinards). 

After  poaching  the  eggs  the  same  as  with  gravy  (No.  2931).  dress  them  on  a  spinach  garnish- 
ing, or  else  one  of  chicory  (No.  729). 

(2934).  SOEAMBLED  EGGS  A  LA  COLUMBUS  ((Eufs  Bromine's  a  la  Colombus), 

After  the  eggs  are  nearly  done  mix  in  with  them  some  cooked  lean  quarter-inch  squares  of  ham; 
cut  some  slices  of  raw  blood  pudding  (No.  1772),  fry  them  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  arrange 
them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  allow  to  cool  off;  bread-crumb  and  dip  in  egg,  then  fry  to  a  fine  color. 


FIG.  569. 

Also  saute  some  slices  of  beef  brains  over  a  quick  fire.  Dress  the  scrambled  eggs,  putting  half  the 
preparation  on  a  dish  and  the  brains  in  the  center;  cover  these  with  the  remainder  of  the  eggs  and 
surround  with  the  fried  slices  of  black  pudding.  Garnish  the  top  with  very  thin  half  slices  of 
sausage. 

(2935).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  A  LA  DUXELLE  AND  WITH  ANCHOVY  CROUSTADES  ((Eufs 
Brouille's  a  la  Duxelle  et  aux  Croustades   d'Anchois). 

Fry  in  butter  some  chopped  onions,  shallots  and  mushrooms;  mix  with  these  a  little  reduced 
veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Break  five  or  six  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season,  beat  lightly  and  pour  them 
into  a  saucepan,  having  previously  buttered  the  bottom  with  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter; 
beat  them  over  a  slow  fire  with  a  whisk  until  they  begin  to  thicken,  then  use  a  spoon, 
and  work  till  smooth,  incorporating  about  an  ounce  and  a  half  more  butter  divided  in 
small  pats;  season  and  throw  in  the  fine  herbs  and  some  chopped  parsley;  finish  with  a  little  raw 
cream  so  as  to  keep  them  mellow.  In  case  the  eggs  have  to  wait,  then  put  the  saucepan  in  a  bain- 
marie  having  the  water  only  tepid,  and  continue  beating  with  the  spoon.  Dress  the  eggs  in  a 
vegetable  or  any  deep  dish,  smooth  the  top  and  drop  over  some  tomatoed  half-glaze;  surround 
with  small  hollow  round  crusts  (No.  52)  filled  with  reduced  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  finished  with 
anchovy  pur6e  and  a  halved  anchovy  dressed  in  a  ring  the  size  of  the  opening  on  the  croustade,  the 
anchovy  to  be  filled  through  a  cornet  with  cold  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  having  lobster  coral 
sprinkled  over  the  top. 


EGJ-GfS.  861 

(2936).  SOEAMBLED  EGGS  A  LA  JEROME  ((Eufs  Brouille's  a  la  Jerome.) 
Cook  some  eggs  the  same  as  for  scrambled  with  gravy  (No.  2940),  mixing  in  when  nearly  dene 
a  salpicon  either  of  partridge,  woodcock  or  any  other  seasonable  game  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of 
an  inch  squares;  dress,  pour  around  the  sauce  and  garnish  with  the  stuffed  eggs. 

For  the  Sauce. — Prepare  a  game  fumet  (No.  397)  with  the  fragments  of  game,  reducing  it  with 
espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 

Stuffed  Eggs. — Have  hard-boiled  eggs  prepared  as  follows:  Boil  some  eggs  for  ten  minutes, 
throw  in  cold  water,  shell  and  remove  the  white  from  the  pointed  ends  only  with  a  tin  tube  half 
an  inch  in  diameter;  empty  out  the  interiors  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91)  and  pound  this  with 
well  seasoned  bearnaise  sauce  (No.  433),  mixing  in  chopped-up  mushrooms;  fill  and  re-form  the 
eggs  with  this  stuffing,  roll  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  and  fry  to  a  fine  color. 

(2937),  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  A  LA  MARTINEZ  ((Eufs  Brouille's  a  la  Martinez). 
Broil  four  sweet  Spanish  peppers,  selected  with  meaty  and  plump  insides;  suppress  their  skins 
by  rubbing  with  a  cloth,  then  divide  each  one  in  two;  fry  in  butter  and  oil,  half  of  each,  season 
with  salt,  drain  off  the  fat,  and  mix  in  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  chopped  parsley.  Scramble 
eight  eggs,  thickening  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  almost  done  mingle  in  some  artichoke 
bottoms  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  and  fried  in  butter,  and  some  cooked  ham  cut  in  three-six- 
teenths of  an  inch  squares.  Dress  the  whole  in  a  vegetable  dish,  smooth  the  surface  dome-shaped 
and  pour  around  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413),  mixed.  Arrange  the  pep- 
pers in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other,  and  serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  separately. 

(2938).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  IN  A  RISOT  BORDER  WITH  DUCKS'  LIVERS  ((Eufs  BrouU14?.  en 

Bordure  de  Risot  aux  Foies  de  Canard). 

Make  a  risot  (No.  739),  mixing  in  with  it  some  cooked  ducks'  livers  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares. 
Butter  a  plain,  round-top  border  mold  (Fig.  138),  fill  it  with  the  risot,  pressing  it  firmly;  keep  warm 
and  unmold  just  when  ready  to  serve.  Fill  the  center  with  scrambled  eggs  (No.  2940),  mixing  lu 
some  chopped  truffles.  Garnish  around  the  eggs  with  small  escalops  of  f oies-gras  rolled  in  Madeira 
sauce  (No.  492). 

(2939).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  PINE  HERBS  ((Eufs  Brouille's  aux  Pines  Herbes). 

Have  some  eggs  scrambled  the  same  as  with  gravy  (No.  2940);  to  avoid  having  lumps  in  them 
they  should  not  be  cooked  excessively,  and  above  all  be  well  stirred;  mix  in  one  tablespoonful 
altogether  of  chopped  parsley,  chives  and  chervil.  Should  it  be  necessary  to  keep  them  any  length 
of  time  before  serving,  then  add  a  little  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415).  Surround  with  puff  paste 
crescents  baked  in  a  slack  oven. 

(2940).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  GRAVY  ((Eufs  Brouille's  au  Jus). 

Break  six  eggs  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  gill  of  cream  or  milk,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Lay  the  saucepan  containing  the  eggs  on  a  slow  fire  and  stir  by  beating 
vigorously  with  a  small  wire  whip  (Fig.  154);  as  soon  as  they  attain  a  consistency,  remove  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire  and  continue  the  same  process  for  two  minutes  longer;  when  finished  pour  it  oui 
on  a  dish  and  surround  by  bread  croQtons  (No.  51)  fried  in  clarified  butter.  Throw  over  some 
reduced  clear  gravy  (No.  404),  mixing  a  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  into  it. 

(2941).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  LOBSTER,  GARNISHED  WITH  VILLEROI  OYSTERS  ((Eufs 

Brouilles  aux  Homards,  Garnis  d'Huitres  a  la  Villeroi). 

Add  to  some  nearly  finished  scrambled  eggs,  prepared  the  same  as  for  gravy  (No.  2940), 
a  salpicon  of  lobster  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  dice.  Dress  the  eggs  when  finished, 
smooth  the  surface  and  garnish  around  with  Villeroi  oysters  (No.  698),  or  else  mussels  or  scallops. 
The  lobster  salpicon  can  be  replaced  by  one  of  shrimps  or  of  crabs. 

(2942).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  MUSHROOMS  ((Eufs  Brouille's  aux  Champignons). 
Prepare  the  scrambled  eggs  the  same  as  with  gravy  (No.  2940);  when  almost  done  mix  in  a 
salpicon  of  mushrooms  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  dress  and  pour  around  a  little  Madeira  sauce 
(No.  492)  and  surround  with  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter  (No.  51). 


862  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2943).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  SWEETBREADS  ((Eufs  Brouille*  aux  Ris  de  Veau). 
Braise  some  sweetbreads  and  then  put  them  under  a  weight  to  cool;  cut  them  up  in  quarter- 
inch  squares  and  warm  in  butter.  Prepare  some  scrambled  eggs  the  same  as  with  gravy  (No.  2940) 
and  when  nearly  done  add  the  sweetbreads  and  mix  them  in  with  the  eggs.  Dress  on  the  center 
of  a  dish,  pour  around  a  little  half-glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  and  surround  with  half-heart  croutons 
(small)  of  bread  fried  in  butter  (No.  51).  The  sweetbreads  may  be  replaced  either  by  unsmoked 
salted  tongue,  ham,  or  even  thin  pieces  of  smoked  beef  or  squares  of  bacon  fried  in  butter. 


(2944).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  SWISS  AND  PARMESAN  CHEESE  (GBufs  Brouille"s  au  Fromage 

de  Gruyere  et  au  Parmesan). 

Beat  eight  eggs  lightly  in  a  bowl,  pour  them  into  a  saucepan  having  its  bottom  buttered  with 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  season  and  thicken  on  a  slow  fire  while  beating  unceasingly,  and  as 
soon  as  cooked  incorporate  an  ounce  of  butter  and  two  of  grated  parmesan.  Remove  it  from  the 
fire  and  then  pour  in  a  little  good  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  and  raw  cream;  finish  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  Swiss  cheese  cut  in  dice  and  softened  in  cold  milk.  Dress  the  preparation  in  a  deep  dish 
and  surround  with  puff -paste  crescents.  Scrambled  eggs  may  be  prepared  with  the  Swiss  cheese 
or  with  grated  parmesan,  mixing  in  three  ounces  of  either.  Surround  with  triangle-shaped  bread 
croutons  fried  in  butter  (No.  51). 


(2945).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  TOMATO  PUREE  ((Eufs  Brouillfc  a  la  PurSe  de  Tomates). 

Select  two  or  three  good  tomatoes;  put  them  beside  each  other  in  a  wire  basket  and  plunge  into 
boiling  water  for  two  minutes  simply  to  scald  and  remove  the  skins;  drain  off  and  press  through  a 
sieve;  should  the  puree  be  too  thin  put  it  on  a  hair  sieve  to  drain,  then  warm  and  season  it.  Scram- 
ble seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  saucepan  the  same  as  for  scrambled  with  gravy  (No.  2940);  when 
properly  thickened  remove  and  mix  in  the  prepared  puree;  pour  the  whole  into  a  deep  dish. 
Sprinkle  over  with  half-glaze  (No.  400),  using  a  brush,  and  surround  with  bread  croutons  (No.  51). 

(2946).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  TOMATOES  AND  CHIVES  ((Eufs  Broufflfe  aux  Tomates  et  a  la 

Oiboulette), 

Scald  some  tomatoes,  peel  and  cut  across  in  two,  then  into  squares,  and  saute  in  butter;  add 
them  to  the  scrambled  eggs  when  nearly  done,  also  some  finely  cut-up  chives  (see  scrambled  eggs 
with  gravy,  No.  2940). 

(2947).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  PERIGOSD  TRUFFLES  ((Eufs  Brouille's  aux  Truffes  du 

Pe"rigord). 

Cut  two  ounces  of  Perigord  truffles  into  three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  after  they  have  been 
peeled  and  cooked  with  salt  and  Madeira  wine;  put  this  salpicon  with  a  little  melted  meat-glaze 
(No.  402)  into  a  small  saucepan  and  set  it  in  a  bain-marie.  Break  four  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season  and 
beat  to  mix  well,  then  pour  them  through  a  fine  strainer  into  a  saucepan,  having  its  bottom  cov- 
ered with  half  an  ounce  of  butter;  put  the  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire  and  thicken  the  eggs  while 
beating  steadily  with  a  small  tinned  wire  whip.  When  almost  done  remove  from  the  fire  and  mix 
in  slowly  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter  broken  up  small,  finishing  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw 
cream;  add  the  truffles  and  dress  in  a  vegetable  or  any  other  deep  dish. 


(2948).  SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  PIEDMONT  TRUFFLES  ((Eufs  Brouille's  aux  Truffes  du 

Pie"mont). 

Prepare  the  scrambled  eggs  the  same  as  for  No.  2940,  only  salting  them  less;  mix  with  them 
two  spoonfuls  of  grated  parmesan.  Have  two  ounces  of  white  truffles  cut  up  into  thin  fillets;  put 
the  eggs  in  a  souffl6  pan  (Fig.  182),  make  a  hole  in  the  center  and  in  it  place  the  truffles;  pour 
some  barely  melted  butter  over,  and  on  top  place  anchovy  fillets.  Cover  the  whole  with  the  eggs 
so  that  the  truffles  are  inclosed  in  the  center;  set  this  pan  in  a  slack  oven  for  a  few  moments  and 
serve  at  once- 


EG-G-S.  863 

(2949).  SOFT  EGGS  A  LA  OHIPOLATA  (ffiufs  Mollets  a  la  OMpolata). 

As  for  poached  eggs  these  must  be  of  the  freshest  so  as  to  have  them  well  shaped,  all  of  the 
same  size,  while  cooking.  Partly  fresh  eggs  form  into  cavities  when  taken  from  their  shells, 
giving  them  an  ungainly  appearance.  Put  the  eggs  into  a  strainer  and  plunge  this  into  boiling 


FIG.  570. 

water;  cover  the  vessel  and  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  steadily  for  five  minutes,  should  the  eggs  be 
large;  leave  them  for  thirty  seconds  in  their  water  off  the  fire;  then  remove  them  from  the 
strainer,  and  plunge  into  cold  water  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  before  breaking  off  their  shells; 
remove  these,  then  return  them  to  the  cold  water.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  heat  them  in  salted 
water  that  must  not  boil;  drain  and  dress  them  on  hollow  crusts  (No.  52)  and  garnish  around 
with  a  Chipolata  garnishing  (No.  657). 

(2950).  SOPT  EGGS  FOE  EPIOUEES  (ffiufs  Mollets  des  Gourmets). 

Fry  in  clarified  butter  some  hollowed  crusts  the  shape  of  an  egg  (No.  52),  having  one  for  each; 
line  the  interiors  with  a  bed  of  foies-gras  puree,  and  range  a  hot  soft  egg  over.  Pour  into  a  sauce- 
pan some  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  strained  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  incorporate,  beating  it  in, 
some  lobster  butter  (No.  580),  a  dash  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a  little  shallot  cut  in  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  squares,  and  blanched.  Dress  the  crusts  (Fig.  570),  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

(2951).  SOFT  EGGS  WITH  PUEEE  OF  SOEEEL  ((Eufs  Mollets  a  la  PurSe  d'Oseille). 
Prepare  a  puree  of  sorrel  garnishing  (No.  728),  finish  it  with  a  little  half -glaze  (No.  400), 
butter  it  well,  and  dress  in  a  vegetable  dish;  smooth  the  surface,  and  on  it  arrange  six  soft  eggs, 
prepared  as  explained  in  No.  2949.    Baste  the  sorrel  with  half-glaze  applied  with  a  brush. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


UFarineux). 


(2952).  EIOE  OEOQTJETTES  WITH  SALPIOON  (Croquettes  de  Eiz  au  Salpicon). 
Pick  and  wash  half  a  pound  of  rice;  blanch,  drain  and  refresh;  place  it  in  a  saucepan  to  moisten 
with  broth  (No.  194a)  to  three  times  its  height;  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  a  seasoning 
of  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  When  the  rice  is  sufficiently  cooked  (in  twenty  or  thirty  minutes),  mix 
into  it  a  salpicon  weighing  a  quarter  of  a  pound,  composed  of  tongue,  truffles,  chicken,  game  and 
mushrooms — all  to  be  mixed  evenly  after  cutting  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares.  Leave 
this  stand  till  cold,  then  form  into  round,  flat,  oval  or  oblong  croquettes;  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin  with  fried  parsley  on  top. 

(2953).  FEDELINI  VEEMIOELLINI  ATT  CARDINAL  (Fedelini  VermiceUini  au  Cardinal). 

Have  half  a  pound  of  small,  straight  vermicelli,  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Begin  by  plunging  it  in  au  abundance  of  boiling  salted  water  for  about  three  minutes,  then  drain 
and  put  it  back  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter  divided  in  small  lumps,  and  two  ounces  of 
grated  parmesan,  adding  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  four  ounces  of  minced 
mushrooms,  two  ounces  of  crawfish  butter  (No.  573;.  Have  two  ounces  of  truffles  sliced  sufficiently 
large,  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  then  fried  in  butter,  drained  and  rolled  in  meat  glaze  (No. 
402).  Alternate  the  fedelini  in  a  vegetable  dish  witii  layers  of  minced  truffles,  covering  each  one 
with  grated  parmesan;  bestrew  the  top  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese,  pour  butter  over, 
and  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  or  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

(2954).  FONDUE  WITH  PIEDMONTESE  TEUPFLES  (Fondue  aux  Truffes  du  Pi&nont), 
Take  a  pound  of  soft,  fresh  Swiss  cheese  and  cut  it  up  into  quarter-inch  squares.  Break 
twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  bowl  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  mix  well  together  and  dilute  with  a 
pint  of  cream,  then  strain  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  cheese  into  a  saucepan  on  a  slow  fire  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  stir  it  about  with  a  spoon  until  it  no  longer  forms  into  strings,  then  pour  in 
the  prepared  yolks.  Heat  all  on  the  fire,  stirring  with  a  spoon  until  it  assumes  the  consistency 
of  a  cream  (but  it  must  not  boil),  then  add  a  little  butter  and  peeled  and  finely  minced  Pied- 
montese  truffles.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  deep  dish  and  dredge  the  top  with  finely  chopped  truffles. 

(2955).  GNOOQUIS  (Gnocquis). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  gills  of  water,  adding  an  ounce  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper;  let  come 
to  a  boil,  then  put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  grated  cheese;  stir 
the  preparation  for  two  minutes  on  the  fire  and  beat  in  quickly  three  eggs,  one  after  the  other. 
Dredge  the  table  with  flour,  pour  the  paste  on  it,  divide  it  into  small  bits  and  rolling  each  one  out 
into  a  string  on  the  table,  cut  them  so  as  to  obtain  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  balls,  and 
poach  these  for  five  minutes  in  boiling  milk.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  fill  it  with 
flour  and  moisten  with  the  milk  the  gnocquis  were  boiled  in,  then  add  grated  parmesan  cheese  and 
the  gnocquis,  stir  well,  heat  the  gnocquis  thoroughly  and  serve.  Gnocquis  can  also  be  made  with 
semolina,  also  with  chicken  quenelle  forcemeat  (No.  89)  added  to  the  same  weight  of  cream  cake 
paste  (No.  132). 

(2956).  GNOOQUIS,  EOMAN  STYLE  (Gnocquis  a  la  Eomaine). 

Range  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  in  a  ring,  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  in  it  put  salt,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  mashed  potatoes  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  a  little  hot  water. 
Make  a  firm  paste  and  divide  it  into  small  pieces  to  form  three-fourths  of  an  inch  diameter  balls; 
press  them  on  a  grater,  throw  into  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain  and  serve  in  a  soup 
tureen  in  layers  alternated  with  parmesan  cheese;  pour  over  hazel-nut  butter  (No.  567)  and  some 
gravy  (No.  404)  reduced  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  tomato  puree  (No.  730). 

(865) 


866  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2957).  LAZAGNETTES,  PHILADELPHIA  STYLE  (Lazagnettes  a  la  Philadelphia), 
Blanch  half  a  pound  of  lazagnettes.  (These  are  thin  bands  of  paste  three-sixteenths  of  an 
inch  wide.)  Drain  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  to  cover  with  some  broth  (No.  194a);  boil  and 
reduce  this  to  almost  nothing,  then  add  four  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  and  eight  ounces  of 
mushrooms,  both  to  be  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  inch  squares;  dish  in  separate  layers  of  lazag- 
nettes and  parmesan  and  cover  with  thin  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409),  into  which  have  mixed  meat- 
glaze  (No.  402)  and  tomato  sauce  (No.  549). 

(2958).  MACARONI  A  LA  BRIGNOLI  (Macaroni  a  la  Brignoli). 

Braise  a  piece  of  beef  by  placing  it  in  a  saucepan  lined  with  bards  of  fat  pork,  onions,  carrots 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley;  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  194a)  and  let  fall  to  a  glaze,  then  re- 
moisten  and  let  fall  once  more  to  a  glaze;  pour  in  sufficient  broth  and  white  wine  to  reach  to  the 
height  of  the  meat.  Cook  for  four  hours  in  a  slack  oven,  strain,  skim  off  the  fat  and  mingle  into 
the  sauce  a  third  as  much  tomato  puree  (No.  730).  Boil  some  macaroni  in  salted  water  for  twelve 
to  fifteen  minutes,  drain  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  gravy  (No.  404);  when  this  is 
absorbed  dress  two-thirds  of  the  macaroni  in  layers  with  grated  parmesan  between;  form  a  hollow 
in  the  center  and  in  it  arrange  sliced  truffles  previously  cooked  in  a  sautoir  with  cocks'-combs  and 
minced  mushrooms,  having  them  simmered  with  a  little  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  and  half-glaze 
(No.  400).  Cover  over  with  more  macaroni  and  grated  parmesan,  pour  on  a  part  of  the  prepared 
stock  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2959).  MACARONI  BAKED  (Macaroni  an  Gratin). 

Dress  the  macaroni,  cooked  as  for  the  Parisian  (No.  2961),  in  a  buttered  and  bread-crumbed  dish; 
smooth  the  top  neatly,  strew  with  bread-raspings  and  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(2960).  MACARONI,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE  (Macaroni  a  la  Mode  de  Naples). 

Line  a  saucepan  with  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and 
bay  leaf,  and  on  top  lay  a  three-pound  piece  of  rumps  of  beef.  Into  this  make  three  holes  some  dis- 
tance apart  from  each  other,  and  each  an  inch  in  diameter;  in  one  place  some  grated  fat  pork, 
in  the  other  a  little  garlic  and  in  the  third  hard  egg,  chopped  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
parsley.  Put  the  meat  into  the  saucepan  with  some  fat,  and  color  it  on  a  slow  fire  or  in  the  oven. 
Around  lay  a  few  boned  calves'  feet,  moisten  with  two  bottles  of  wine,  one  red  and  one  white,  and 
a  quart  of  broth  (No.  194a);  when  the  beef  is  half -cooked,  add  twelve  tomatoes  cut  in  two  and 
pressed  out,  and  a  pint  of  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  cover  the  saucepan,  paste  on  the  lid  with  a 
paste  made  of  flour  and  water  and  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for  six  hours;  remove,  skim  off 
the  fat  and  strain  the  stock.  Cook  a  pound  and  a  half  of  macaroni  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter  in  salted  boiling  water  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  when  sufficiently  done  drain  and 
range  it  in  a  large  vegetable  dish  or  soup  tureen  in  separate  layers  of  macaroni  and  grated  cheese. 
Baste  over  with  the  beef  stock  and  continue  until  it  is  all  used,  and  when  ready  to  serve  stir  well 
and  send  to  the  table,  using  the  meat  only  for  stock. 

(2961).  MACARONI,  PARISIAN  STYLE  (Macaroni  a  la  Parisienne). 

Boil  a  pound  of  macaroni  in  salted  water  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes,  putting  it  in  only 
when  the  water  boils.  Avoid  breaking  it  for  it  can  always  be  cut  the  desired  length  after  cooking. 
When  cooked  drain  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
and  add  half  parmesan  and  half  Swiss  cheese,  finishing  with  a  little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409)  and 
a  large  piece  of  butter.  Toss  in  the  saucepan,  without  using  a  spoon,  and  when  well  mingled 
and  the  cheese  forms  into  threads  then  it  is  done.  Pour  it  into  a  vegetable  dish  and  serve. 

(2962).  MACARONI  WITH  CREAM  AND  TRUFPLES  (Macaroni  a  la  Creme  aux  Truffes). 

After  cooking  and  blanching  the  macaroni  the  same  as  for  the  Parisian,  drain  and  lay  it  in  a 
saucepan  to  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg;  add  a  pint  of  cream  and  let  simmer  until  this  is  re- 
duced, then  transfer  it  to  a  vegetable  dish  in  layers,  alternating  each  one  with  grated  parmesan 
and  some  finely  shredded  truffles,  finishing  with  the  chopped  truffles.  Pour  over  melted  butter 
and  serve. 


FARINACEOUS.  867 

(2963).  MACARONI  WITH  GAME  PTJEEE  (Macaroni  a  la  Puree  de  Gibier). 

Pound  the  meats  of  a  cooked  partridge,  free  of  skin  or  bones;  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  butter  and 
six  gills  of  meat  gravy,  prepared  the  same  as  in  No.  2960.  Blanch  the  macaroni  for  twelve  minutes, 
drain  and  dress  it  in  layers — macaroni,  grated  parmesan  and  game  puree.  Serve  separately  a 
half -glaze  sauce  (No.  413)  with  essence  of  game  (No.  389). 

(2964).  MACAKONI  MEZZANI  GEANDI  A  LA  CAVALLOTTI  (Macaroni  Mezzani  Grandi  a  la 

Oavallotti). 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  this  macaroni,  which  is  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Chop  up 
separately  some  cooked  lean  ham,  some  cooked  cold  chicken  fillets  and  livers,  mushrooms 
and  truffles;  place  these  ingredients  in  a  saucepan  with  reduced  gravy  (No.  404)  and  finish 
with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  (No.  549);  keep  this  preparation  in  a  bain-marie 
(Fig.  122).  After  the  macaroni  is  cooked,  drain  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  mix  in  a  gill  of 
rich  gravy;  boil  while  stirring  at  times  and  when  the  gravy  is  all  absorbed  add  two  ounces  of  butter 
divided  in  small  pats,  also  two  ounces  of  grated  parmesan.  Dress  the  macaroni  in  a  vegetable 
dish  and  spread  a  part  of  the  sauce  over;  strew  with  parmesan,  pour  a  little  hazel-nut  butter  (No. 
567)  over  and  serve  very  hot,  with  the  remaining  gravy  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(2965).  MAOAEONNIOELLI  A  LA  LTJOINI  (Macaronnicelli  a  la  Lucini). 
Boil  a  pound  of  macaronnicelli;  drain  and  put  it  in  a  sautoir  with  half  a  pound  of  butter. 
Cut  five  peeled  tomatoes  crosswise  in  two;  press  them  well  and  fry  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  keep- 
ing them  very  whole.  Grate  half  a  pound  of  Swiss  and  parmesan  cheese,  half  of  each.  Chop  up  a 
medium  onion,  fry  it  in  butter  with  four  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham  and  as  much  bacon,  both  cut 
in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares;  drain  off  the  butter  and  replace  it  by  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414) 
and  meat  gravy;  let  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  dress  the  macaronnicelli  in  a  vegetable  dish, 
alternating  each  layer  with  one  of  the  grated  cheese;  cover  the  surface  with  the  halved  tomatoes 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole. 

(2966).  SPAGHETTI  MAOAEONI  A  LA  LAUEENCE  (Macaroni  Spaghetti  a  la  Laurence). 

Cook  the  spaghetti  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes;  drain  and  finish  in  some  veal  blond  (No. 
423)  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  paste  is  cooked  the  moistening  will  be  entirely  reduced,  then  dress 
it  in  a  vegetable  dish  intercalated  with  layers  of  grated  parmesan.  Serve  the  following  sauce  sepa- 
rately: Chop  up  two  ounces  of  onions,  fry  it  in  butter  with  six  ounces  of  minced  ham,  a  bunch  of 
parsley  garnished  with  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  mignonette,  an  uncrushed  clove  of  garlic,  six  halved  and 
well-pressed-out  tomatoes,  melted  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414);  boil  together 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  tammy  and  pour  in  a  sauce-tureen  to  serve  at  the  same 
time  as  the  macaroni. 

(2967).  SPAGHETTI  MAOAEONI  A  LA  PEATI  (Macaroni  Spaghetti  a  la  Prati). 
Take  half  a  pound  of  cold  braised  sweetbread  escalops,  one  inch  in  diameter  by  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooked  lean  ham  cut  the  same  size  and  shape; 
~ry  both  lightly  in  butter  and  moisten  with  some  gravy  (No.  404),  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and 
Madeira  wine;  add  two  ounces  of  salted  unsmoked  tongue  and  one  ounce  of  truffles.  Blanch  a  pound 
of  spaghetti  in  salted  water  for  ten  minutes,  drain  and  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  with  melted 
glaze  (No.  402),  butter  and  a  little  of  the  gravy  from  the  above  stew;  simmer  and  when  finished 
cooking  incorporate  four  ounces  of  grated  parmesan;  arrange  two-thirds  of  this  spaghetti  in  a 
circle  on  a  dish,  pour  the  stew  in  the  center  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  spaghetti. 

(2968).  SPAGHETTI  MAOAEONI,  QUEEN  STYLE  (Macaroni  Spaghetti  a  la  Eeine). 
Plunge  one  pound  of  spaghetti  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  when  cooked  drain  in  a  colander 
without  refreshing;  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  some  chicken  puree  prepared  as  follows: 
Pound  some  roast  chicken  meat  to  a  pulp  with  a  pint  of  bechamel  (No.  409);  rub  it  through  a  sieve 
and  put  it  in  the  saucepan  with  the  spaghetti,  adding  salt,  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168),  nutmeg 
and  meat  glaze  (No.  402).  When  thoroughly  mixed  incorporate  slowly  some  butter  and  grated 
Darmesfm.  Dress  in  a  vegetable  dish,  scatter  fine  fillets  of  tongue  and  truffles  over  and  pour  on 
some  clear  half-glaze  (No.  400). 


868  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2969).  SPAGHETTI  MACARONI,  SALVINI  (Macaroni  Spaghetti  a  la  Salvini). 

Cook  in  boiling  and  slightly  salted  water  one  pound  of  spaghetti  macaroni,  having  it  boil  for 
twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  drain  and  dress  it  in  layers  in  a  large  vegetable  dish  or  soup  tureen, 
beginning  with  a  layer  of  the  macaroni;  strew  this  with  grated  parmesan,  and  continue  till  finished. 
Baste  over  with  beef  gravy  prepared  as  follows,  and  serve  very  hot:  Take  three  pounds  of  rump  of 
beef.  Select  a  saucepan  rather  larger  than  the  piece  of  beef,  cover  its  bottom  with  bards  of  fat 
pork  and  sliced  onions,  having  sufficient  to  conceal  the  bottom;  lay  in  the  meat,  salt  and  pepper 
over,  add  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  cover  the  saucepan,  put  it  on  the  fire 
and  let  fall  to  a  glaze.  When  the  meat  is  browned  have  two  ounces  of  extract  of  tomatoes  dis- 
solved in  a  quart  of  broth  (No.  194a),  and  add  a  spoonful  at  a  time  to  the  saucepan  until  the 
onions  are  well  melted,  then  continue  adding  the  remainder  of  the  tomatoes  and  another  quart  of 
broth;  cook  the  whole  slowly  for  six  hours. 

(2970).  NOODLES  A  LA  LAUER  (Nouilles  k  la  Lauer). 

Mince  fine  one  pound  of  noodle  paste  (No.  142),  rolled  out  to  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness; cook  it  in  boiling  water  for  a  few  moments,  then  drain;  add  to  it  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  six 
ounces  of  butter,  and  four  ounces  of  grated  parmesan,  also  a  little  bechamel  sauce  (No.  409);  mix 
all  together  and  serve. 


(2971).  NOODLES,  BAKED  (Nouilles  au  Gratin). 

Butter  a  baking  dish,  lay  in  the  same  preparation  as  for  Lauer  (No.  2970),  smooth  nicely,  and 
dredge  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  grated  parmesan;  pour  on  melted  butter,  brown  in  a  hot  oven 
and  serve. 

(2972).  NOODLES  SAUTED  IN  BUTTEK  (Nouilles  Sautes  au  BeurreX 

Blanched  noodles  can  be  sauted  in  butter,  drained  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
slightly  browned  in  the  oven. 

(2973).  NOODLES  WITH  TRIED  BREAD-CRUMBS  (Nouilles  a  la  Mie  de  Pain   Trite). 
Prepare  the  noodles  as  for  the  Lauer  (No.  2970),  but  instead  of  using  six  ounces  of  butter,  have 
only  two,  and  finish  precisely  the  same.     Fry  a  handful  of  bread-crumbs  in  butter,  and  when  a 
fine  color  throw  over  the  dressed  noodles.     It  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

(2974).  POLENTA  (Polenta), 

A  dried  and  crushed  corn  resembling  semolina.  Have  a  quart  of  water  boiling  in  a  saucepan, 
drop  in  like  rain  one  pound  and  a  half  of  polenta;  boil  for  a  few  moments,  adding  a  little  salt  and 
three  ounces  of  butter,  then  stir  in  briskly  a  little  grated  parmesan.  When  cooked,  pour  it  into 
mousseline  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  138),  previously  coated  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402);  when  the  polenta 
is  hard,  unmold,  or  else  have  the  molds  buttered,  and  when  the  polenta  is  thoroughly  cold  unmold 
and  cut  each  one  into  slices;  spread  a  little  melted  butter  and  grated  parmesan  between  each,  then 
restore  them  to  their  respective  positions;  remold  and  place  in  the  oven  for  twenty-five  to  thirty 
minutes,  chen  unmold  and  serve  with  a  cream  sauce  (No.  454). 

(2975).    RAMEKINS  (Ramequins). 

Pour  a  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  five  ounces  of  butter,  and  when  this  boils  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  twelve  ounces  of  flour;  beat  and  dry  it  on  the  fire.  Kemove  the 
saucepan  from  the  range  and  then  incorporate  five  more  ounces  of  butter,  also  five  ounces  of 
grated  parmesan,  six  whole  eggs  and  two  yolks,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  eight  ounces  of  Swiss  cheese,  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  mix  the  whole  well  together, 
adding  a  little  whipped  cream.  Have  this  past*?  the  consistency  of  a  pate-a-chou,  then  drop  it  with 
a  round  spoon  on  a  buttered  pan  into  balls  measuring  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  egg  them 
over  and  decorate  each  ramekin  with  thin  slices  of  Swiss  cheese  put  on  in  form  of  a  rosette.  Cook 
in  a  medium  oven.  As  soon  as  done  take  them  out  and  detach  from  the  pan  to  dress  and  serve 
at  once  on  a  folded  napkin. 


FARINACEOUS.  869 

(2976).   EAVIOLES  A  LA  BELLINI  (Kavioles  a  la  Bellini). 

Prepare  some  ravioles  as  explained  in  No.  158.  After  being  blanched  and  drained  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  and  cover  with  broth  (No.  194a);  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain  and  dress  in  layers 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  alterating  each  one  with  grated  parmesan;  pour  over  some  thickened  gravy 
(No.  405),  mixed  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  tomato  puree  (No.  730),  then  serve.  Ravioles  can 
also  be  prepared  the  same  way,  and  when  drained  and  placed  in  the  vegetable  dish  pour  over 
some  melted  butter,  strew  over  grated  parmesan  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  a  few  minutes. 

(2977).  KIOE  A  LA  MANHATTAN-LEAN  (Eiz  au  Maigre  a  la  Manhattan). 

Chop  up  two  ounces  of  onion ;  fry  it  in  butter,  add  a  pound  of  rice  and  heat  both  together. 
When  exceedingly  hot  moisten  to  three  times  its  height  (the  rice  one-third  and  the  moistening 
two-thirds)  with  broth  (No.  194a);  let  boil  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Incorpo- 
rate with  the  rice,  when  done,  six  ounces  of  grated  parmesan.  Pour  two-thirds  of  this  into 
a  casserole  or  vegetable  dish;  make  a  hole  in  the  center  and  fill  it  with  shelled  crawfish  tails  or 
shrimps  and  poached  oysters,  after  removing  their  muscles,  or  else  with  mussels  and  minced 
mushroons;  pour  over  lean  veloute  sauce  (No.  416)  reduced  with  essence  of  mushrooms  (No.  392) 
and  chicken  glaze  (No.  398);  mix  well  and  cover  the  whole  with  the  remainder  of  the  rice;  put  in 
a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes  and  serve. 

(2978).  KIOE,  ORIENTAL  STYLE  (Eiz  a  1'Orientale). 

Wash  well  and  drain  one  pound  of  rice,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  cover  and  push  it  into  the  oven ;  when  the  rice  is  dry  and  sufficiently  done  pour  it  on  a 
sieve.  Put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  clarified  butter  cooked  to  hazel-nut  (No.  567)  in  a  sauce- 
pan, add  to  it  the  drained  rice  and  cover  with  a  wet  cloth;  place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  to  close 
it  hermetically,  then  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  the  rice  in  a  vegetable 
dish. 

(2979).  EISOT  A  LA  FEANOATELLI  (Kisot  a  la  Prancatelli). 

Chop  up  a  two-ounce  onion,  fry  it  colorless  in  butter  and  add  one  pound  of  Piedmont  rice,  a 
few  slices  of  raw  smoked  ham  and  six  small  chipolata  sausages;  moisten  to  double  the  height  of 
the  rice  with  broth  (No.  194a),  boil,  put  on  the  lid  and  place  the  saucepan  in  the  oven  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  remove  the  ham  and  sausages,  and  incorporate  four  ounces  of  hazel-nut  butter  (No. 
567),  four  ounces  of  grated  parmesan  and  a  very  little  salt  and  prepared  red  pepper  (No.  168).  Put 
two-thirds  of  this  risot  into  a  vegetable  dish;  garnish  the  top  with  a  circle  of  escalops  of  sweetbreads 
fried  in  butter,  and  the  center  with  the  sausages,  having  suppressed  the  skin  and  cut  them  into 
slices;  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  risot.  Serve  separately  a  very  thick  rich  sauce,  into  which 
mix  some  tomato  paste  and  a  little  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414). 

(2980).  EISOT  A  LA  EISTOEI  (Eisot  a  la  Eistori). 

Prepare  a  risot  the  same  as  with  Piedmontese  truffles  (No.  2981);  dress  half  of  it  in  a  casserole 
or  vegetable  dish  so  as  to  cover  the  bottom  and  sides;  in  the  center  place  a  garnishing  of  cocks'-combs 
and  kidneys,  escaloped  duck's  liver  and  sliced  truffles;  cover  this  garnishing  with  espagnole  sauce 
(No.  414)  reduced  with  Marsala  wine;  mask  with  the  remainder  of  the  risot  and  this  with  peeled 
halved  tomatoes  pressed  out  and  fried  in  oil,  keeping  them  as  whole  as  possible.  Serve  apart  a  little 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  and  grated  parmesan. 

(2981).  EISOT  WITH  PIEDMONTESE  TEUFTLES  (Eisot  aux  Truffes  du  Pi6mont). 
Put  six  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it  begins  to  heat  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  chopped 
onion  and  fry  for  a  moment,  then  put  in  a  pound  of  unwashed  but  well-picked  rice.  When  this 
becomes  quite  hot  moisten  to  double  its  height  with  broth  (No.  194a),  and  cook  very  slowly  while 
covered  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done  add  six  ounces  of  butter  in  small  lumps,  and  four  ounces 
of  grated  parmesan,  stirring  them  in  with  a  large  carving  fork,  also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  meat 
glaze  (No.  402)  or  chicken  glaze  (No.  398).  Range  the  risot  in  a  casserole  or  vegetable  dish,  cover 
the  top  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  white  Piedmont  truffles,  warmed  in  a  little  butter.  Serve  a 
clear  gravy  (No.  404)  at  the  same  time. 


870  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(2982).  SOUFFLE,  OKEAMY,  WITH  CHEESE  (SoufflS  Oremeux  au  Fromage), 

Place  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  into  a  saucepan;  beat  them  with  half  a  pound  of  partly  melted 
butter,  season  with  pepper  and  nutmeg  and  stir  the  preparation  on  a  slow  fire  the  same  as  a  cream, 
so  that  it  thickens,  without  ceasing  to  stir,  and  without  letting  it  boil;  when  done  remove  from 
the  fire  and  stir  in  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  grated  Swiss  and  parmesan  cheese  (the  prepara- 
tion should  remain  mellow);  add  to  it  first  five  beaten  egg-whites,  mixing  thoroughly  but  gently, 
and  then  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  Pour  this  preparation  in  a  souffle  pan  (Fig, 
182),  lay  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  cook  it  from  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  slack  oven. 
Strew  over  grated  parmesan  before  removing  and  serve  at  once. 

(2983).  SOUFFLE  WITH  PARMESAN  CHEESE  (Souffl^  ait  Fromage  Parmesan). 
Have  a  gill  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  some  whole 
peppers  and  salt;  let  the  liquid  boil,  then  remove  and  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour;  thicken 
the  paste  by  beating  it  vigorously  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  detaches  from  the  saucepan:  pour  it 
into  a  basin  and  let  get  partly  cold  while  stirring  about  with  a  spoon.  Incorporate  six  or  seven 
egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  parmesan  and  two  ounces  of  butter  divided  in  small  pats, 
adding  them  all  very  slowly  without  ceasing  to  stir.  At  the  last  moment  work  in  five  beaten- 
up  egg-whites,  and  lastly  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  whipped  cream.  With  this  preparation 
fill  a  buttered  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182)  two-thirds  full,  lay  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  cook  for 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  eight  persons. 

(2984),  SOUFFLE  WITH  SWISS  CHEESE  (SoufflS  au  Fromage  de  Gruyere). 
Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  fecula,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
five  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  having  half  Swiss  and  half  parmesan,  a  pinch  of  pepper  and  some  sugar; 
dilute  slowly  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  good  milk,  and  stir  the  preparation  on  a  slow  fire  to  thicken; 
let  it  dry  on  a  very  low  fire  until  it  detaches  from  the  saucepan,  then  remove  and  let  get  partly  cold. 
Now  incorporate  a  piece  of  butter  and  six  or  seven  egg-yolks;  heat  it  for  two  minutes  on  a 
slow  fire  without  ceasing  to  stir.  At  the  last  moment  incorporate  into  the  preparation  five  or  six 
egg-whites  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  Swiss  cheese  cut  in  small  dice. 
Pour  the  whole  into  a  buttered  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182)  and  lay  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet;  place  it  in 
the  oven  to  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

(2985).  SOUFFLE'S  WITH  swiss  AND  PARMESAN  CHEESE-IN  OASES  (Souffle's  en  Caisses  au 

Fromage  de  Gruyere  et  au  Fromage  Parmesan). 

Melt  five  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  to  it  add  seven  raw  egg-yolks;  set  the  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  and  stir  the  preparation  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  put  in  five  ounces  of  parmesan 
cheese,  and  five  ounces  of  Swiss  cheese,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  a  little  salt,  a  pinch  of 
sugar,  and  two  beaten  egg-whites,  mixed  in  after  the  preparation  has  lost  its  first  heat.  Twenty 
minutes  before  serving  incorporate  five  very  firmly  beaten  whites,  and  use  this  to  fill  round  but 
tered  cases  (Fig.  439)  stiffened  in  the  oven;  cook  the  souffles  in  a  slack  oven;  serve  promptly. 

(2986).  TAGLIATELLI  IN  CKOUSTADE  (Tagliatelli  en  Croustade). 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  tagliarelli  (small  thin  bands  of  paste  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  wide)  in 
salted  water  for  a  few  moments;  drain  and  put  them  into  a  sautoir  to  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg;  add  a  little  bechamel  (No.  409),  fresh  butter,  grated  cheese  and  four  raw  egg-yolks. 
Butter  and  line  a  mold  or  ring  eight  inches  in  diameter  and  an  inch  and  a  half  in  height;  fill  it 
with  the  preparation,  dredge  the  top  with  fresh  bread-crumbs,  besprinkle  with  butter  and  cook 
in  a  moderate  oven;  when  the  paste  is  done  slip  the  croustade  on  a  round  dish  and  serve  with  a 
separate  tomato  sauce  (No.  549)  mingled  with  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  veloute  (No.  415). 

(2987).  TIMBALE  OF  GNOCQUIS,  A  LA  CHOISEUL    (Timbale  de  Gnocquis  a  la  Choiseul), 

Prepare  a  paste  with  a  pint  of  milk  boiled  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter;  remove  it  at  the 
first  boil  and  put  in  a  half  pound  of  sifted  flour;  prepare  as  a  pate-a-chou  (No.  132);  boil  for  a 
few  moments  on  the  fire,  then  incorporate  fourteen  eggs,  salt  and  four  ounces  of  grated 


FARIJSTACEOUS.  871 

parmesan.  Turn  this  paste  over  on  the  table  and  finish  with  sufficient  flour  to  have  it  firm  and 
solid,  then  roll  it  out  into  thin  strings  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  width,  and  divide  these  into  quarter- 
inch  lengths;  roll  each  one  to  the  shape  of  a  ball  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  to  poach  for 
three  minutes,  then  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  grated  Swiss  cheese  and  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  409).  Line  a  timbale  mold  with  thin  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  pour  in  the  gnoquis  and  wet 
the  inside  upper  edge;  cover  the  timbale  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste,  attach  the  edges  solidly 
together  and  cook  for  one  hour  in  a  medium  oven,  remove,  unmold  and  serve  at  once,  dressed  on  a 
dish,  with  a  little  buttered  veloute  sauce  (No.  415)  served  separately. 

(2988).  TIMBALE  MILANESE  OP  MACAEONI  OE  NOODLES  (Timbale  de  Macaroni  on  de 

Nouilles,  Milanaise). 

Butter  the  interior  of  a* timbale  mold;  decorate  the  sides  with  slightly  sweetened  noodle 
paste  (No.  142);  moisten  the  decorations  and  line  the  whole  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135). 
Cut  the  bottom  with  a  three-inch  pastry  cutter,  but  do  not  remove  this  round  piece.  Blanch 
some  macaroni  in  water,  'drain  and  finish  cooking  in  broth  (No.  194a),  drain  once  more, 
then  cut  it  into  three-inch  lengths;  season  with  a  very  little  salt,  pepper,  grated  parmesan 
and  a  liberal  piece  of  butter.  Fill  the  timbale  with  this  macaroni,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center 


Fre.  571. 


to  be  filled  with  a  garnishing  composed  of  truffles,  foies-gras,  game  quenelles,  unsmoked  red  beef 
tongue  and  mushrooms,  all  cut  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long;  these 
ingredients  to  be  mingled  with  half -glaze  (No.  409)  made  of  essence  of  game  (No.  389).  Close  the 
timbale  with  a  cover  of  the  same  paste  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  A  timbale  containing  two 
quarts  will  require  an  hour  and  a  half  to  cook  properly;  invert  it  immediately  on  a  dish,  remove 
the  round  that  was  cut,  replace  it  and  serve.  Instead  of  macaroni,  noodles  or  lazag-nettes  may 
be  substituted,  proceeding  precisely  the  same.  Send  at  the  same  time  with  the  timbale  beef  a-la- 
mode  gravy,  with  tomato  pulp,  little  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  brown  sauce  (No.  414). 

(2989).  TIMBALE  OP  NOODLES  A  LA  PEAESALL  (Timbale  de  Nouilles  a  la  Pearsall). 

Make  some  noodle  paste  the  same  as  for  No.  142;  roll  it  out  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick 
and  leave  it  dry  slightly,  then  cut  into  very  thin  fillets  and  cook  these  in  salted  water  for  one 
minute;  drain  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add  six  egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  parmesan  cheese.  Garnish  a  timbale  mold  measuring  five 
by  five  inches  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  line  the  bottom  and  side  with  buttered  paper,  fill 
with  rice,  place  a  round  of  buttered  paper  on  top.  moisten  the  upper  edge,  cover  over  with  a  lid  of 
paste  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour.  Unmold  when  cold,  bread-crumb  and  egg  over 
twice,  mark  it  on  the  top  half  an  inch  from  the  edge  and  fry  in  white  frying  fat;  remove  the  cover 
and  empty  out  the  timbale.  Fry  in  butter  one  ounce  of  finely  chopped  onions  with  half  a  pound 
of  minced  mushrooms,  add  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  meat  glaze  (No.  402)  and  tomato  sauce  (No. 
549).  Arrange  the  noodles  in  the  timbale  in  layers  separated  with  the  mushrooms  and  grated 
parmesan.  Pour  over  some  gravy  (No.  404)  reduced  with  espagnole  sauce  (No.  414)  and  the 
timbale  is  ready  to  serve. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS. 

SWEET  ENTKEMETS-EOT  (Entremets  de  Douceur- Chauds), 


(2990).  APPLES  A  LA  GIUDIOI  (Pommes  a  la  Giudici). 

Remove  the  cores  from  a  dozen  small  pretty  apples;  peel  them  evenly  and  cook  them  in  a  light 
syrup  of  about  twelve  degrees.  As  soon  as  done,  drain  and  place  them  in  a  vessel  to  cover  with  a 
hot  vanilla  syrup  of  thirty  degrees.  With  a  large  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91)  scoop  out  about  thirty 
round  balls  from  some  large  apples,  blanch,  drain  and  place  them  in  another  vessel  containing  a 
hot  syrup  colored  with  carmine.  With  the  apple  parings  and  a  few  more  apples  prepare  some 
marmalade  with  vanilla;  reduce  till  somewhat  thick  and  with  this  fill  a  dozen  small  Savarin 
molds  to  the  top,  and  let  harden.  Have  a  pastry  cutter  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  Savarin  molds 
and  with  it  cut  out  a  dozen  round  pieces  of  cooked  brioche  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  bestrew 
them  with  sugar  and  range  on  a  baking  sheet,  then  place  thorn  in  the  oven  to  glaze;  mask  this 
glazed  side  with  currant  jelly.  Dress  on  each  one  the  apple  paste  borders,  having  had  them  cooked 
in  the  Savarin  molds,  and  fill  up  the  hollow  centers  with  vanilla  frangipane  (No.  44)  mixed  with  a 
salpicon  of  pineapple  cut  in  dice,  and  on  top  dress  the  apples  that  have  been  previously  drained 
and  covered  with  a  layer  of  lightly  tinted  pink  jelly.  Dredge  over  with  finely  chopped  pistachios, 
fill  the  empty  spaces  in  the  apples  with  vanilla  frangipane  and  on  top  set  a  small  round  croquette 
made  of  chestnut  pur6e  (No.  3017).  Range  these  dressed  apples  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  fill  the  middle 
with  the  small  apple  balls,  mixed  with  a  few  whole  pistachios,  the  whole  mingled  with  some  apple 
jelly  (No.  3668).  Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  the  apple  juice  thickened  with  a  little  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  flavored  with  kirsch. 

(2991).  APPLES  A  LA  NELSON  (Pommes  a  la  Nelson), 

Prepare  a  semolina  croquette  preparation  (No.  3019),  pour  it  into  a  flawn  mold  (No.  3170) 
previously  buttered  and  sugared;  place  this  in  a  buttered  sautoir  and  push  it  into  a  very  slack 
oven  to  harden  the  preparation.  Have  eight  fine  apples,  suppress  the  cores  with  a  column  tube, 
enlarge  the  orifices  slightly  and  peel  them  very  neatly;  range  them  in  a  sautoir  and  cover  with 
syrup,  and  then  cook  them  in  the  oven ;  as  soon  as  done  drain  on  a  grate  and  cover  with  strained 
peach  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Unmold  the  semolina  on  a  dish  and  dress  the  apples  around  the 
edge  in  a  circle;  fill  the  holes  in  these  with  marmalade,  and  lay  on  each  a  small  round  semolina 
croquette  with  a  piece  of  angelica  to  represent  a  stalk;  decorate  the  edge  of  the  semolina  with  a 
wreath  composed  of  angelica  lozenges  and  candied  cherries,  and  fill  up  the  center  with  some  of 
the  same  cherries  (demi-sucre) ;  push  it  into  the  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes  and  serve  with  a 
vanilla  syrup  thickened  with  peach  marmalade. 

A  surtout  is  a  plain  round  or  oval  base  made  of  semolina,  etc.,  about  three-quarters  to  one 
inch  high. 

(2992).  APPLES  BAKED  (Pommes  an  lour), 

Use  a  five-eighth  inch  tin  tube  from  the  column  box  to  core  some  good  russet  apples  without  peel- 
ing them:  cut  off  a  strip  of  the  peel  all  around  the  middle  and  lay  the  apples  beside  each  other 
on  a  dish  fit  for  the  oven,  leaving  half  an  inch  space  between  each  one.  Fill  up  the  hole  in  the 
center  of  each  apple  with  white  or  brown  sugar,  and  place  a  little  melted  butter  on  the  top  of 
them  all;  pour  a  little  hot  water  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  push  the  apples  into  a  slack  oven 
for  about  half  an  hour.  Should  the  oven  be  too  hot,  cover  them  over  with  paper.  Serve  in  the 
same  dish  they  were  cooked  in. 

(873) 


874  TME    EPICUREAN. 

(2993).  APPLES,  BARON  DE  BRISSE  STYLE  (Pommes  a  la  Baron  de  Brisse). 
Peel  twelve  medium-sized  apples,  remove  the  cores  with  a  tin  tube,  rub  them  over  with  lemon 
and  cook  in  a  light  syrup,  being  careful  to  keep  them  slightly  firm;  drain  on  a  cloth.  Prepare  a 
croquette  of  semolina  preparation  (No.  3019);  spread  some  of  it  on  the  bottom  of  a  disk,  having  it 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  pour  the  remainder  in  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  channeled  socket  (Fig.  179) 
and  push  this  out  in  the  shape  of  a  plait  to  form  a  border  around  the  inside  edge  of  the  dish;  range 
the  apples  in  the  center;  fill  the  cavity  of  the  apples  with  cream  rice  preparation  (No.  160) 
and  on  the  top  of  each  one  place  a  small  cream  rice  pear-shaped  croquette,  containing  a  shred  of 
angelica  to  imitate  a  stalk.  Decorate  the  border  between  each  apple  with  angelica  lozenges  and  pre- 
served cherries  (demi-sucre),  and  fill  up  the  center  with  whole  marrons  cooked  in  light  syrup  with 
vanilla,  and  mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  Smyrna  raisins  washed  in  hot  water,  the  whole  to  be 
stirred  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade.  Serve  separately  a  chestnut  syrup  with  vanilla  taken  from 
some  preserved  chestnuts  (No.  3689). 

(2994).  APPLES  BROWNED  (Pommes  Gratings). 

Have  about  fifteen  nice  small  apples;  empty  the  centers  with  a  half-inch  in  diameter  column 
box  tube;  peel  and  pare  them  round,  then  blanch  in  acidulated  water,  keeping  them  whole. 
Drain  and  fill  the  hollow  centers  with  frangipar.e  cream  (No.  44),  finished  with  a  whole  egg.  Range 
the  apples  in  a  baking  dish,  pour  over  some  apricot  and  vanilla  syrup,  and  put  them  for  half  an 


hour  in  a  slack  oven,  basting  over  frequently  to  finish  cooking  and  glaze.  At  the  last  moment 
spread  on  the  bottom  of  a  vegetable  dish  a  thick  layer  of  vanilla  cream  rice  (No.  160),  having  it 
very  soft;  remove  the  apples  one  by  one  with  a  palette  knife  and  dress  them  on  the  rice,  pressing 
them  down  slightly;  close  the  middle  hole  with  a  half-sugared  cherry,  or  with  a  round  piece  of 
greengage  half  an  inch  in  diameter.  Bestrew  over  with  finely  chopped  and  sifted  almonds  mixed 
with  sugar;  brush  the  surface  lightly  with  butter,  then  brown  for  a  few  moments  under  a  sala- 
mander (Fig.  123),  or  in  a  hot  oven,  until  a  fine  color  is  attained,  then  serve  at  once. 

(2995).  APPLES  IN  SURPRISE  (Pommes  en  Surprise). 

Koll  out  sufficient  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  to  the  thickness  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch  to  make 
eight  squares  of  five  inches  each.  Peel  and  turn  eight  good  medium-sized  russet  apples  to  have  them 
two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  empty  out  the  cores  with  a  five-eighth  of  an  inch  column  tube, 
and  on  each  square  of  paste  lay  one  apple;  brush  them  over  with  butter,  besprinkle  with  sugar, 
then  fill  the  hollow  in  the  apple  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste, 
raise  it  up  and  enclose  the  apples  well  inside,  attaching  it  firmly  on  top;  moisten  this  and  lay  over 
it  a  round  piece  of  paste  cut  out  with  a  channeled  pastry  cutter  (Fig.  16).  Range  the  apples  on  a 
baking  sheet  a  short  distance  apart,  egg  over,  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Ten  minutes  before  removing  glaze  them  over  with  sugar,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  as  soon  as  they 
are  done. 

(2996).  APPLES,  NUBIAN-MERINGUED  (Pommes  Meringuees  a  la  Nubienne). 

Cut  in  four  eight  fine  apples;  peel,  core  and  round  the  angles,  rub  them  over  with  lemon,  and 
range  them  in  a  sautoir  one  beside  the  other;  cover  lightly  with  melted  butter,  and  bestrew7  with 
vanilla  sugar,  then  place  a  sheet  of  buttereu  paper  over  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven.  Butter  and 
sugar  a  plain  border  mold  (Fig.  138),  fill  it  to  the  top  with  cream  rice  flavored  with  vanilla  (No. 
160),  and  finished  with  a  few  egg-yolks;  lay  it  on  a  baking  tin  with  water  to  reach  to  half  its 
height,  and  set  in  a  slack  oven  to  harden.  Spread  a  layer  of  the  same  rice  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish, 
unmold  the  border  on  this,  and  mask  the  inside  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675) ;  on  this  range 


SWEET    EXTREMETS.  875 

the  cooked  quartered  apples  in  a  pyramid,  and  glaze  them  over  with  apricot  marmalade  CNo.  3675); 
cover  it  with  meringue  (No.  140),  shaping  it  like  a  dome  over  all;  smooth  it  with  a  knife,  and  deco- 
rate the  entire  surface  with  rows  of  heads,  having  the  largest  at  the  base  and  decreasing  at  the  top, 
made  of  the  same,  sticking  a  small  piece  of  almond  into  each  one.  Dredge  with  sugar,  and  put 
the  dish  in  a  very  slack  oven  to  color  the  meringue  slightly. 

(2997),  APPLE  "PAIN"  WITH  VANILLA  (Pain  de  Pommes  a  la  Vanille), 

Make  a  pint  and  a  half  of  fine  apple  puree,  and  reduce  it  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put 
into  a  vessel  six  ounces  of  butter,  beat  it  up  to  a  cream,  adding  two  egg-yolks  and  two  whole  eggs, 
one  at  a  time,  and  then  a  pinch  of  salt;  when  this  becomes  very  frothy,  add  to  it  a  teaspoonful 
of  fecula,  six  ounces  of  pulverized  macaroons  and  the  apple  puree.  Butter  and  flour  a  plain  cylin- 
drical mold  (Fig.  150),  fill  it  up  with  the  preparation,  and  lay  it  in  a  sautoir,  with  water  to  half  its 
height,  then  cook  it  in  an  oven.  Just  when  ready  to  serve,  unmold  on  a  dish  and  send  to  the 
table  with  a  bowlful  of  very  fine  apple  puree  diluted  with  vanilla  syrup. 

(2998).  APPLES,  PORTUGUESE  (Pommes  a  la  Portugaise). 

Peel  twelve  medium-sized  apples,  remove  the  cores  with  a  column  tube,  and  cook  them  in  a 
light  syrup;  as  soon  as  done  drain  on  to  a  cloth,  wipe  and  brush  over  with  a  layer  of  apricot  mar- 
malade (No.  3675).  Cut  some  slices  of  savarin,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  from  these  cut  a  dozen  rounds 
with  a  two  and  a  quarter  inch  diameter  pastry  cutter;  cut  some  grooves  on  one  of  the  surfaces  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  apart  to  form  lozenges;  strew  this  cut  side  with  powdered  sugar,  and  range  the 
slices  on  a  baking  sheet,  push  into  the  oven  to  glaze,  and  when  removed  mask  the  glazed  side  with 
currant  jelly,  then  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish ;  lay  an  apple  on  each,  and  fill  the  holes  in  them  with 
currant  jelly;  set  on  each  a  small  cream  rice  croquette  (No.  3018),  made  in  the  shape  of  a  three- 
quarter  inch  ball.  Fill  the  inside  of  the  circle  with  stewed  cherries  mingled  with  currant  and 
maraschino  syrup,  and  serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  currant  sauce,  made  with  currant  jelly 
dissolved  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  boiling  syrup,  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(2999).  APPLES  WITH  BUTTER  (Pommes  au  Beurre). 

Cut  four  fine  russet  apples  in  quarters;  peel  and  pare  them,  and  range  in  a  well-buttered  sau- 
toir; moisten  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  twenty  degree  syrup,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  cover  over 
with  a  well-buttered  paper,  and  finish  cooking  in  a  slow  oven.  When  done  dress  on  a  dish  in  a 
circle,  and  add  to  the  sautoir  a  little  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  with  some  Madeira  wine;  boil 
up  witk  the  lid  on;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy,  and  pour  it  over  the  apples. 

(3000).  APPLES  WITH  BURNT  ALMONDS  (Pommes  au  Pralin). 

Cut  six  fine  apples  across  in  two;  remove  the  cores  with  a  column  tube,  peel  and  round  the 
angles;  cook  them  in  a  light  syrup  acidulated  with  lemon  juice,  being  careful  to  keep  them  slightly 
firm.  As  soon  as  done  drain,  wipe,  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  burnt  almonds  (No.  1);  bestrew  with 
sugar,  place  them  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet,  and  set  into  an  oven  to  color.  Cut  half -inch  thick 
slices  of  savarin,  and  from  these  stamp  out  a  dozen  round  pieces  the  same  diameter  as  the  apples; 
cover  them  on  one  side  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  over  this  a  layer  of  burnt  almonds 
as  used  for  the  apples;  dredge  with  sugar,  range  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  push  into  the  oven. 
As  soon  as  the  crusts  are  browned  lay  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  with  an  apple  on  top 
of  each;  fill  the  hollow  of  these  with  vanilla  pastry  cream  (No.  46),  and  on  top  set  a  fine  large 
preserved  cherry  (demi-sucre);  fill  the  center  of  the  circle  with  fresh  strawberries,  over  which  has 
been  poured  some  sugar  cooked  to  "  small  crack"  (No.  171),  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(3001).  APRICOTS  A  LA  JEFFERSON  (Abricots  a  la  Jefferson). 

Infuse  a  vanilla  bean  in  a  quart  of  hot  milk  for  half  an  hour,  then  take  it  out  and  set  the 
milk  on  the  fire;  drop  into  it  like  rain  six  ounces  of  farina.  Let  this  boil  a  few  minutes,  then 
remove  from  the  hot  fire  to  a  slower  one,  so  that  it  continues  to  cook  without  boiling.  Then  add 
to  it  six  egg-yolks,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream,  and  two  egg-whites 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Butter  twelve  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137);  put  into  the  bottom  of 
each  a  ring  of  apricot  paste  and  fill  the  interior  of  this  ring  with  a  round  piece  of  angelica.  Fill 
the  molds  with  the  above  preparation  and  keep  them  in  a  bain-marie  for  twenty-five  minutes, 
then  unmoid  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish.  Drain  some  fine  compotes  of  halved  apricots,  wipe 


876  THE    EPICUREAN. 

them  well  and  dress  them  in  a  dome  in  the  center  of  the  circle.  Cover  them  over  with  the  apricot 
syrup  reduced  with  sugar  and  maraschino.  Decorate  the  intersections  of  the  apricots  with  halved, 
freshly  skinned  almonds  and  cherries  (demi-sucre).  Lay  on  the  edge  of  the  dish  between  each 
timbale  a  brandied  greengage  and  a  brandied  cherry.  Place  the  dish  after  it  has  been  decorated  in 
the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  and  serve  with  an  apricot  and  kirsch  sauce  in  a  saace-boat, 
made  as  follows:  Put  three  gills  of  apricot  pulp  into  a  copper  pan,  with  as  much  water  and  half 
a  pound  of  sugar;  let  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add 
one  gill  of  kirsch  to  it. 

(3002).    BABA  WITH  MARSALA  (Baba  au  Marsala). 

Fill  a  buttered  baba  mold  to  half  its  height  with  a  baba  paste  (No.  129)  without  any  raisins; 
set  it  to  rise  in  a  rather  mild  temperature  until  the  mold  is  nearly  full,  then  bake  it  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  As  soon  as  done  cut  it  off  even  with  the  top  of  the  mold.  Unmold,  and  pour  over  a 
rum  syrup,  flavored  with  vanilla  and  orange  peel;  drain  it  well  and  glaze  it  with  lemon  icing 
(No.  102).  Dress  it  on  a  very  hot  dish  and  fill  up  the  inside  of  the  hollow  space  with  fruits  pre- 
pared as  follows,  serving  the  surplus  of  them  in  a  sauce-boat: 

Preparation  of  Fruits. — Putin  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  well-cleaned  sultana 
raisins  (No.  157),  two  ounces  of  candied  orange  peel,  two  ounces  of  candied  green  almonds  and 
two  ounces  of  candied  pineapple,  the  whole  to  be  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths  inch  squares;  two 
gills  of  Marsala  wine,  three  gills  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees,  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon  and  the 
peel  of  half  an  orange;  put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  take  it  off  at  the  first  boil. 

(3003).  BANANAS,  CHERRY  SAUCE-PRIED  (Bananes  Frites,  Sauce  aux  Cerises) 

Cut  some  bananas  lengthwise  in  two,  roll  them  in  finely  pulverized  macaroons  and  then  in 
flour,  and  fry  in  very  hot  oil  until  they  acquire  a  good  color;  drain  on  a  cloth,  wipe  and  coat  over 
with  some  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  laid  on  with  a  brush.  Dish  them  up  pyramidically  and 
dredge  over  freshly  peeled  and  shredded  pistachio  nuts.  Serve  a  currant  sauce,  with  cherries 
apart,  made  by  putting  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  in  a  saucepan  and  diluting  it 
with  a  pint  of  syrup  at  thirty  degrees.  Stand  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  let  boil  a  few  times,  then 
strain  the  syrup  through  a  fine  sieve;  add  to  it  one  gill  of  kirsch  and  a  good  handful  of  preserved 
cherries  previously  washed  in  hot  water. 

(3004).  BISCUITS,  FRASOATI  (Biscuits  Prascati). 

Break  twelve  eggs,  putting  the  yolks  in  one  vessel  and  the  whites  in  another;  add  to  the  yolks 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar  and  beat 
well  with  a  whip  to  obtain  a  very  light  and  frothy  preparation.  Then  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  flour 
and  six  ounces  of  fecula  sifted  together,  and  afterward  the  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites;  stir  the  prepa- 
ration until  perfect.  Butter  and  flour  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150);  fill  it  two-thirds  full 
with  the  preparation  and  cook  it  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  done  unmold  and  let  get  cold.  When 
cold,  cut  it  up  in  transversal  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  cover  each  slice  with  a  layer  of 
fine  vanilla  cream  (No.  42);  dredge  the  surfaces  with  a  finely  chopped  salpicon  of  pineapple  and 
pistachios.  Eeconstruct  the  biscuit  to  its  original  shape,  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade 
(No.  3675)  and  bestrew  the  sides  with  chopped  pistachios.  Now  place  it  on  a  dish;  decorate  the 
top  with  a  rosette  of  fine  candied  pink  and  white  pears  cut  in  four  and  intermingle  them  with  loz- 
enges of  angelica;  brush  these  fruits  over  with  a  very  thick  syrup  and  surround  the  base  with  a  row 
of  apples  cooked  in  butter,  having  small  sticks  of  angelica  placed  between  each.  Fill  the  hollow 
center  of  the  biscuit  with  cream  rice  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  160)  and  keep  the  biscuit  warm  for 
twenty  minutes,  serving  it  with  a  flavored  English  cream  sauce. 

English  Cream  Sauce  Flavored  with  Vanilla. — Place  in  a  vessel  eight  egg-yolks,  half  a  pound 
of  sugar  and  one  ounce  of  starch;  beat  up  a  moment  to  have  the  mixture  smooth.  Stand  a 
quart  of  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  a  ?plit  vanilla  bean  added  to  it  and  let  boil ;  as  soon  as 
this  occurs  pour  it  gently  over  the  eggs  and  stir  all  well  together.  Pour  it  all  back  into  the  sauce- 
pan, place  it  again  on  the  fire  and  thicken  the  sauce  without  permitting  it  to  boil,  stirring  continu- 
ously with  a  spatula,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  The  vanilla  can  be  replaced  by  liquors 
added  at  the  last  moment. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  877 

(3005).  BOEDER  OP  RICE  WITH  BANANAS  (Bordures  da  Riz  aux  Bananes). 

Make  a  consistent  rice  cream  preparation  (No.  160)  flavored  with  vanilla,  and  finish  it  with  a  few 
egg-yolks.  Divide  this  into  two  portions,  and  into  one  incorporate  a  salpicon  of  chestnuts  cut  up 
small  and  candied  pineapple  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice.  Butter  and  sugar  a  plain  border  or  savann 
mold  (Fig.  139),  and  with  the  rice  which  has  no  fruit  cover  the  sides,  then  fill  the  mold  with  the  rice 
and  fruit,  smooth  the  top  and  set  this  border  in  a  sautoir  with  hot  water  reaching  halfway  up,  arid 
push  it  into  a  slack  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Unmold  the  border  on  a  dish,  and  ornament 
the  top  with  a  handsome  circle  of  angelica  lozenges  and  candied  cherries,  and  surround  the  base 
with  preserved  plums.  Peel  some  fine  bananas,  cut  them  up  into  transversal  slices  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  plunge  them  into  a  thick  maraschino  syrup,  let  simmer  for  a  few  moments,  then  drain 
and  range  them  in  a  pyramid  in  the  center  of  the  border.  Brush  the  top  over  with  apricot  mar- 
malade (No.  3675),  and  dredge  finely  chopped  pistachios  over  all;  heat  the  border  in  the  oven 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  sauce  made  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668),  diluted 
with  a  little  syrup  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(3006).  BRIOCHES  ST.  MARK  (Brioches  St.  Marc). 

Butter  twelve  small  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  fill  them  three-quarters  high  with  brioche 
paste  (No.  130),  and  leave  to  rise  in  a  mild  temperature,  and  when  the  molds  are  partly  full  bake 
them  in  a  slow  oven.  After  taking  them  out  cut  them  off  level  with  the  tops  of  the  molds  and 
leave  in  till  cold,  then  empty  them  partially  and  pour  over  the  insides  some  syrup  flavored  with 
maraschino  and  almond  milk  (No.  4),  filling  them  up  with  frangipane  cream  (No.  43).  Cover  the 
oufcsides  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  strew  the  sides  with  green  pistachios  and  white 
almonds,  both  chopped  up  finely.  Ornament  the  tops  of  each  brioche  with  a  rosette  composed  of 
halved  pistachios  and  a  split  cherry  laid  in  the  center.  Dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  ar- 
range in  the  center  some  stewed  halved  peaches.  Cover  the  ornamentation  on  the  brioches  with 
maraschino  syrup  thickened  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade,  and  dress  in  the  intersection  of  the 
peaches  some  freshly  shelled  white  split  almonds,  and  also  some  candied  halved  cherries,  then 
serve.  Have  a  sauce-boat  of  English  vanilla  cream  sauce  (No.  3004)  to  accompany  this  entremets. 

(3007).  CHARLOTTE  A  LA  DESTREY  (Charlotte  a  la  Destroy). 

Butter  a  charlotte  mold,  either  round  or  oval,  this  depending  on  the  dish  required  for  serving, 
and  line  it  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  then  let  stand  in  the  ice-box  for  half  an  hour.  Cut 
eight  apples  in  quartet's,  peel,  core  and  lay  them  beside  each  other  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet;  be- 
sprinkle with  sugar  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  then  cook  in  the  oven  and  when  done 
remove  and  let  cool  off.  Prepare  a  frangipane  cream  (No.  43);  add  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream 
rice  (No.  160)  and  a  salpicon  of  fruit,  such  as  green  almonds,  pears,  apricots,  a  little  orange  peel  cut 
in  thin  shreds  and  a  few  crushed  macaroons.  Fill  up  the  charlotte  in  layers  of  cream  and  apples 
( peaches  or  pears  may  be  substituted),  and  smooth  the  surface;  lay  the  mold  on  a  baking  pan, 
push  it  into  the  oven  and  let  cook  for  about  one  hour;  as  soon  as  finished  remove  and  let  rest  foi- 
ten  minutes  before  unmolding  it  on  a  dish,  then  cover  with  well-reduced  apricot  marmalade 
(No.  3675)  and  sprinkle  highly  with  chopped  roasted  almonds;  decorate  the  top  with  an  angelica 
rosette  and  around  the  base  of  this  with  a  circle  of  fine  halved  pistachios;  fasten  a  nice  cherry  in  the 
center  of  the  rosette  and  all  around  a  circle  of  preserved  cherries  (demi-sucre),  cut  in  two  and 
laid  flat  on  the  charlotte.  Serve  at  the  same  time  as  this  entremets  a  sauce-boat  of  English  cream 
sauce,  flavored  with  brandy  and  Madeira  (No.  3004). 

(3008).  APPLE  CHARLOTTE  (Charlotte  de  Pommes). 

Cut  a  few  russet  apples  in  four,  peel,  core  and  mince  them  up  rather  coarsely,  then  put  them 
into  a  sautoir  with  some  melted  butter;  stir  and  toss  incessantly  over  a  good  fire  until  the  moisture 
is  reduced,  then  sweeten.  Butter  a  four-inch  high  by  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  char- 
lotte mold,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  flat  rosette  made  of  long  triangles  of  bread,  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  pointed  on  one  end  and  rounded  on  the  other,  carefully  dipping  them  as  needed  in  clarified 
butter.  These  slices  should  slightly  overlap  each  other.  Remove  the  center  with  a  one-inch  tube 
and  replace  with  a  round  of  bread  of  the  same  size  dipped  in  butter.  Cut  some  one-eighth  inch 
thick  slices  of  bread  into  inch-wide  strips,  having  them  somewhat  higher  than  the  mold;  dip  them 
in  clarified  butter  and  apply  them  upright  to  the  inner  side  of  the  mold,  one  overlapping  the  other, 


878 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


cut  flush  with  the  mold;  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mold  with  part  of  the  apples,  and  in 
the  center  put  three  spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675) ;  finish  filling  with  the  remainder 
t>i!  the  apples,  and  cover  these  with  a  round  piece  of  bread  the  same  size  as  the  mold,  then  lay  the 


FIG.  5 


FIG.  574. 


mold  on  a  small  baking  sheet,  push  it  into  a  hot  oven  and  leave  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes, 
so  that  the  bread  becomes  a  fine  golden  color.  Should  it  brown  too  fast  put  a  metal  cover  on  top. 
Invert  the  charlotte  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  it  at  once  with  an  apricot  and  maraschino  sauce 
poured  around  (see  Humboldt  pudding,  No.  3100). 

(3009).  COMPIEGNE  WITH  SABAYON  (Compiegne  an  Sabayon). 

Butter  a  dozen  small  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  and  fill  them  three-quarters  full 
with  Compiegne  paste  (No.  3236);  let  rise  in  a  mild  temperature,  then  set  them  on  a  baking  sheet, 
and  cook  in  a  slack  oven.  When  done,  remove  and  cut  them  off  exactly  level  with  the  molds; 
unmold  and  dip  them  at  once  into  a  light  syrup  flavored  with  Madeira  wine  and  vanilla;  drain  on 
a  grate,  and  then  dish  them  up  in  a  circle.  Prepare  some  rings  of  apricot  paste  of  the  same 
diameter  as  the  top  of  the  timbales;  put  them  on  the  top  of  each  Compiegne,  place  a  mirabel  plum 
in  the  center  of  each,  and  stick  a  piece  of  angelica  into  each  one.  Cover  the  Compiegnes  with  a 
Madeira  sabayon,  as  for  cabinet  pudding  (No.  3096),  serving  more  of  it  separately. 

(3010).  CREAM  A  LA  MAINTENON-FRIED  (Oreme  Trite  a  la  Maintenon). 
Kemove  the  outer  shells  from  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  chestnuts;  plunge  them  into  boiling 
water  and  let  boil  up  once  or  twice;  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  quickly  abstract 
the  second  skin ;  return  them  to  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  milk,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla 
stick;  cook  very  slowly,  and  then  press  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  puree  into  a  bowl,  pour  over 
six  ounces  of  sugar  cooked  to  "small  crack"  (No.  171)  and  mix  it  into  the  pulp,  beating  it 
vigorously.  Spread  this  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Prepare 
a  pound  of  white  and  delicate  apple  pulp,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  reduce; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  fecula,  and  a  gill  of  water;  spread  this  over  the  chestnuts  and  smooth 
it  to  the  same  thickness,  then  let  get  cold.  Cut  it  into  lozenges,  and  cover  each  one  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675);  roll  them  carefully  in  pulverized  macaroons;  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
and  afterward  in  bread-crumbs;  smooth  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  fry  to  a  fine  color  in  hot 
white  frying  fat;  drain,  wipe,  and  bestrew  with  vanilla  sugar,  then  dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded 
napkin,  and  serve  with  a  separate  English  cream  vanilla  sauce  (No.  3004). 


(3011).  CREAM  OF  BISCUIT  WITH  KIRSOH  (Creme  de  Biscuits  au  Kirsch). 
Put  six  whole  eggs  and  four  yolks  into  a  vessel  with  a  grain  of  salt  and  six  ounces  of  sugar,  a 
part  of  which  is  to  be  flavored  with  orange.  (This  flavored  sugar  is  obtained  by  rubbing  the  entire 
surface  of  the  fruit  on  a  sugar  loaf,  and  then  grating  the  flavored  part  off,  either  with  a  knife  or 
spoon.)  Beat  the  preparation  with  a  whip,  and  dilute  it  slowly  with  a  quart  of  raw  milk  and  four 
gills  of  raw  cream.  Soak  four  ounces  of  lady  fingers  in  milk,  then  dram  on  a  sieve,  and  put  them 
in  a  bowl;  dilute  with  the  above  preparation,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  then  stir  in  one 
gill  of  kirsch.  Butter  a  charlotte  mold,  and  fill  it  with  the  preparation;  set  it  in  a  saucepan  con- 
taining hot  water,  and  place  it  on  the  fire;  let  the  water  come  to  a  boil,  and  keep  it  in  this  state 
for  thirty  minutes,  either  on  the  side  of  a  slow  fire  or  else  in  a  slack  oven.  When  the  cream  is 
firm  to  the  touch  in  the  center,  take  it  off  and  and  leave  it  for  half  an  hour  longer  in  the  water  so 
that  it  hardens,  then  unmold  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  a  kirsch  syrup. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  879 

(3012).  OEEAM  OP  CHESTNUTS  WITH  OAEAMEL  SUGAR  (Oreme  de  Marrons  au  Caramel). 

Cook  a  pound  of  skinned  chestnuts  in  water  with  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  bean,  then  rub  them 
through  a  sieve  into  a  vessel,  and  add  six  whole  beaten  eggs  and  four  yolks,  also  half  a  pound 
of  sugar;  dilute  with  a  pint  of  raw  milk,  mix  well,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Pour  into 
the  bottom  of  a  plain  timbale  mold  one  gill  of  sugar  cooked  to  caramel:  when  cold  butter  the  sides 
of  the  mold,  and  fill  it  up  with  the  chestnut  preparation;  set  the  mold  into  a  saucepan  with  hot 
water  to  half  its  height,  leave  it  on  the  fire,  and  just  when  it  reaches  the  boiling  point  cover  and 
keep  it  cooking  slowly,  or  else  place  it  in  a  slack  oven  to  maintain  the  liquid  at  the  same  temper- 
ature without  boiling  for  fifty  to  sixty  minutes,  or  until  the  preparation  is  firm  to  the  touch  in  the 
center.  Invert  the  cream  on  a  dish,  and  cover  it  with  the  caramel  sugar  found  on  the  bottom  of 
the  mold. 

(3013).  CREAM  PAMELA-PRIED  (Creme  Frite  Pamela). 

Put  four  eggs,  two  yolks,  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon  into  a  bowl,  beat 
them  up  with  a  whip  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of  milk,  then  run  it  through  a  sieve.  Butter  and 
sugar  twelve  six-sided  molds,  the  size  of  timbale  molds  No.  2,  Fig.  137,  but  only  half  as  high;  fill  the 
bottoms  with  a  layer  of  candied  cherries  cut  in  four,  lay  on  these  candied  pineapple  and  angelica 
washed  in  hot  water  and  cut  in  small  quarter-inch  squares;  scatter  broken  macaroons  over  the 
fruit;  pour  on  a  little  of  the  strained  preparation  to  soak,  and  prevent  floating  to  the  top,  then 
finish  filling.  Place  these  molds  in  a  stewpan  and  pour  in  the  bottom  boiling  water  to  reach  to 
half  their  height;  set  this  in  a  moderate  oven  to  poach  the  cream,  and  as  soon  as  done  remove 
from  the  oven  and  let  get  cold  in  the  water.  When  cold  unmold  them,  roll  in  biscuit  dust,  dip 
in  beaten  eggs  and  finish  by  rolling  in  white  bread-crumbs,  smooth  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  then 
plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat  and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color,  drain  on  a  cloth  and  bestrew  with 
vanilla  sugar,  then  serve  with  a  Bischoffi  sauce,  made  as  follows: 

Bischoff  Sauce. — Place  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  as  much  syrup  into  a  saucepan;  boil  and 
thicken  this  liquid  with  a  spoonful  of  fecula  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water;  add  the  peel  of  a  lemon 
and  the  same  of  an  orange  cut  in  Julienne  and  previously  blanched,  also  two  ounces  of  almonds  and 
two  ounces  of  shredded  pistachios,  two  ounces  each  of  seeded  Malaga  and  Smyrna  raisins  and  of 
currants,  thoroughly  washed  in  hot  water;  boil  a  few  times,  then  serve. 

(3014).  CREAM  WITH  APPLES  (Creme  aux  Pommes). 

Mince  six  peeled  russet  apples,  fry  them  for  a  few  moments  in  butter  in  a  thin  sautoirto  soften 
slightly  without  letting  them  melt;  sweeten  moderately.  Make  a  pint  of  cream  of  biscuit  prepa- 
ration (No.  3011),  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan,  then  heat  it  slightly 
while  stirring  over  a  slow  fire.  Mix  the  apples  in  with  the  cream  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  deep 
china  baking  dish;  cook  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven  and  if 'deemed  necessary 
cover  over  with  paper.  Besprinkle  the  surface  with  fine  sugar  a  few  moments  before  serving,  then 
remove  from  the  oven  and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

(3015).  CRESCENTS  OF  NOODLES  WITH  CHERRIES  (Croissants  de  Nouilles  aux  Cerises). 

Cut  up  finely  about  a  pound  of  noodles  (No.  142),  blanch,  drain  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  two  gills  of  cream,  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  three 
tablespoon fuls  of  brandy;  set  the  saucepan  on  a  slack  fire  and  let  cook  slowly,  being  careful  to  stir 
the  contents  at  frequent  intervals  until  all  the  moisture  is  absorbed,  then  pour  the  preparation  on 
two  baking  sheets  covered  with  buttered  paper,  spreading  to  a  layer  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Unmold  as  soon  as  done  and  cover  one  of  these  flats  with  a  thick  layer  of 
reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  on  top  place  the  other  flat,  then  cut  into  crescents,  using  a 
pastry  cutter  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  Dress  these  crescents  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  fill 
the  center  with  competed  cherries,  serving  a  separate  cherry  and  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3003). 

(3016).  CROQUETTES  A  LA  TRIMALOION  (Croquettes  a  la  Trimalcion). 
Cut  twelve  apples  in  four,  peel  and  core  them,  then  cut  into  small  dice;  put  them  into  a  sau- 
toir,  pour  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  butter  and  fry,  and  as  soon  as  done  remove  from  the  fire  and 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  cinnamon,  a  handful  of  candied  cherries  cut  in  four  and 
two  spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  pour  this  on  a  baking  sheet  to  cool  off.  Mold  this 
preparation  into  inch  and  a  quarter  balls,  shar>e  them  into  cylindrical  croquettes  an  inch  in 


880  THE    EPICUREAN. 

diameter,  roll  in  cracker  dust,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  in  bread-crumbs;  smooth  the  breading 
with  a  knife  and  plunge  the  croquettes  into  hot  frying  fat;  fry  till  they  become  a  light  golden  color, 
then  drain  on  a  cloth;  strew  over  powdered  sugar  and  dress  on  a  napkin.  Serve  with  a  sauce- 
tureen  of  cherry  sauce  prepared  the  same  as  for  fried  bananas  with  cherry  sauce  (No.  3003). 

(3017).  OBOQUETTES  OF  CHESTNUTS  (Croquettes  de  Marrons). 

Select  four  pounds  of  fine,  sound  chestnuts;  slit  them  on  one  side  and  put  them  to  roast  in  a 
large  perforated  pan;  cover  and  toss  at  times  until  done.  They  may  also  be  cooked  by  placing 
them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  then  in  a  hot  oven  to  roast  without  blackening.  Skin  them,  remov- 
ing both  the  skins,  and  picking  out  twenty,  of  the  finest,  pound  the  others  to  a  fine  paste. 
Add,  while  continuing  to  pound,  two  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  and  a  little  raw  cream.  Pass 
this  preparation  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  beating  into  it  six  egg-yolks,  then 
dry  over  the  fire  while  stirring.  Pour  this  on  a  baking  sheet  arid  leave  till  cold,  then  divide  it  into 
parts  and  of  each  one  make  an  inch  and  a  quarter  diameter  ball;  in  the  center  of  each  insert  one 
of  the  roasted  chestnuts  split  in  two;  mold  the  croquettes  to  the  shape  of  a  chestnut,  dip  them  in 
beaten  eggs,  roll  in  white  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  very  hot  clear  frying  fat;  when  done,  drain  and 
sponge,  besprinkle  with  vanilla  sugar  and  dress  on  a  napkin. 

(3018).  CROQUETTES  OF  EICE  WITH  ORANGE,  RASPBERRY  SAUCE  (Croquettes  de  Eiz  a 

1'Orange,  Sauce  Framboise). 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  plenty  of  water;  drain  and  put  it  back  into  a  saucepan  with 
sufficient  boiling  milk  to  cover,  then  set  it  on  the  corner  of  the  range  to  finish  cooking  while  stir- 
ring it  at  times  with  a  wooden  spoon.  As  soon  as  the  rice  is  consistent  and  dry,  work  into  it 
eight  egg-yolks,  two  ounces  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  orange  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  whipped  cream  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  candied  orange  peel  shredded  very  fine.  Spread 
this  preparation  on  a  buttered  baking  tin  covered  over  with  a  sheet  of  paper  and  let  it  get  cold. 
Divide  it  into  balls  each  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  draw  them  down  on  one  end  to  give  them  the 
shape  of  a  pear;  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  in  white  bread-crumbs  and  plunge  them  in  plenty  of 
hot  fat  to  fry  to  a  fine  golden  brown;  drain,  sponge,  and  stick  a  piece  of  angelica  into  the  ends  to 
imitate  the  stalk  of  a  pear;  besprinkle  lightly  with  orange  sugar,  dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a 
raspberry  sauce  made  with  a  pint  of  raspberry  juice  mingled  with  as  much  boiling  syrup,  and 
Curagao,  straining  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve. 

(3019).  OEOQUETTES  OF  SEMOLINA,  PISTACHIO  SAUCE  (Croquettes  de  Semoule,  Sauce  aux 

Pistaches). 

Boil  a  quart  of  milk,  add  to  it  half  a  split  vanilla  stick  and  keep  it  warm  in  a  covered  sauce- 
pan; take  out  the  vanilla  and  place  the  milk  on  a  hot  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil  drop  into  it  like 
rain  six  ounces  of  semolina,  stirring  the  preparation  continuously  with  a  whisk,  and  cover  the 
saucepan;  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  and  take  it  out  again  fifteen  minutes  later.  Mix  in  with  the 
semolina  four  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  eight  egg-yolks;  stir  in  well 
with  a  spoon  two  ounces  of  apricot,  two  ounces  of  cherries,  an  ounce  of  pineapple  and  an  ounce 
of  orange  peel,  all  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice.  Spread  this  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  over 
with  paper  and  let  it  get  cold.  Then  divide  it  into  inch  and  a  half  diameter  balls;  roll  these  in 
powdered  macaroons,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  and  finally  roll  in  white  bread-crumbs;  fry  to  a  fine  color, 
drain  on  a  cloth,  wipe  and  bestrew  with  vanilla  sugar.  Dress  the  croquettes  on  a  napkin  and  serve 
separately  an  English  cream  sauce  (No.  3004),  into  which  has  been  added  green  pistachios  shredded 
finely. 

(3020).  OROUSTADES  OF  VENICE,  MERINGUED  (Croustades  de  Venise  Meringue~es). 
Line  some  small  buttered  fruit  pie  circles,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  high  and  two  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter,  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  or  else  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  raise 
an  edge  and  pinch  it;  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  egg  the  edges  of  each  pie  over  twice.  Put 
into  a  vessel  four  spoonfuls  of  fecula  or  arrowroot,  six  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar,  a  grain  of  salt,  eight 
whole  eggs  and  eight  yolks;  mix  well  with  a  whisk  and  dilute  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream  or 
rich  milk;  strain  the  preparation  through  a  sieve  and  then  pour  it  into  a  saucepan  containing  four 
ounces  of  fresh  butter;  stir  on  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  entirely  melted,  and  with  this  prepara- 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  881 

tion  fill  the  small  pies,  then  put  them  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  without  browning;  when  the  cream 
has  set  and  the  paste  is  cooked,  remove  the  croustades  and  leave  them  till  nearly  cold.  Cover  the 
tops  with  meringue,  forming  it  into  a  dome;  decorate  this,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  dredge 
vanilla  sugar  over  the  whole;  return  them  to  a  slow  oven  to  brown  to  a  fine  light  golden  color, 
then  take  them  from  their  molds  and  finish  decorating  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  pushed 
through  a  cornet  and  some  angelica  and  preserved  cherries  (demi-sucre). 

For  a  Large  Croustade. — Line  a  shallow  hot  pie  mold  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135) 
or  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  lay  it  on  a  baking  sheet  and  fill  it  up  with  the  same  preparation  as 
for  the  above;  put  it  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  one  honr.  When  the  cream  has  set  and  the 
paste  is  cooked  take  out  the  croustade  and  let  get  partly  cold  before  unmolding;  cover  it  with 
meringue  (No.  140),  shaping  it  as  a  dome;  decorate  and  finish  the  same  as  for  the  above. 

(3021).  GOLDEN  CRUSTS  (Croutes  Dorses). 

Scrape  off  the  crust  from  some  table  flutes  and  cut  them  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  then  range 
them  one  beside  the  other  on  a  dish;  pour  over  a  little  sweetened  raw  cream  mixed  with  a  few 
egg-yolks.  Let  the  crusts  soak  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  basting  them  over  with  the  cream,  and 
then  take  them  out  and  extract  the  moisture  lightly;  dip  them  into  slightly  sweetened  beaten 
eggs,  then  drain  and  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat  a  few  at  a  time;  drain  as  fast  as  they 
brown  nicely,  and  bestrew  the  surfaces  with  sugar;  serve  with  fruit  preserves  or  else  an  English 
vanilla  sauce  (No.  3004). 

(3022).  CRUSTS  OP  PINEAPPLE,  APRICOT  SAUCE  (Oroutes  aux  Ananas,  Sauce  d'Abricots). 

Cut  from  cooked  savarin  some  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  from  these  remove  some 
rounds  three  inches  in  diameter;  divide  these  in  two  through  the  center  and  notch  them  on 
their  convex  side.  Arrange  these  slices  shaped  like  cocks'-combs  on  a  baking  sheet,  dredge 
them  over  with  sugar,  and  glaze  in  a  brisk  oven;  cover  them  on  the  unglazed  side  with  straw- 
berry marmalade  strained  through  a  sieve,  and  lay  on  each  one  a  fine  slice  of  preserved  pine- 
apple; decorate  the  borders  of  the  crusts  reaching  out  beyond  the  pineapple  with  angelica  lozenges 
and  candied  cherries  cut  in  four,  then  dress  them  on  a  dish  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other. 
Fill  the  hollow  of  the  circle  with  candied  fruits  cut  in  dice,  such  as  apricots,  pears,  green- 
gages, green  almonds,  candied  cherries,  orange  peel  and  angelica,  the  whole  washed  in  warm  water, 
and  then  mingled  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  flavored  with  kirsch;  heat  the  dish  after 
it  is  dressed  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  an  apricot  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001)  separately. 

(3023).  CRUSTS  WITH  BANANAS  A  LA  PANAMA    (Oroutes  aux  Bananes  a  la  Panama), 

Slice  some  brioche  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and  from  them  remove  a  dozen  rounds 
with  a  two  and  a  quarter  inch  diameter  pastry  cutter;  cut  them  all  around  a  short  distance  from 
the  edges  and  empty  out  the  insides;  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  besprinkle  with  sugar  and  glaze 
in  a  quick  oven;  after  they  come  from  the  oven  cover  the  insides  with  guava  jelly  softened  with  a 
little  maraschino.  Peel  six  fine  very  ripe  bananas,  cut  them  across  in  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  plunge  into  a  hot  syrup  of  twenty-five  degrees,  flavored  with  maraschino,  leaving  them 
in  for  five  minutes  only,  then  drain  and  dress  dome-shaped  on  the  crusts,  covering  over  with  very 
hot  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  dredge  with  fresh  finely  chopped  pistachios  and  dress  in  a 
circle  on  a  dish;  fill  the  inside  of  this  with  pineapple  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  thrown  into 
the  syrup  in  which  the  bananas  were  cooked,  then  brought  to  a  boil,  and  mingled  with  some 
guava  jelly  diluted  with  syrup  and  flavored  with  maraschino,  serving  separately  a  hot  sauce  made 
with  apricot  marmalade,  grated  pineapple  and  maraschino. 

(3024).  CRUSTS  WITH  CHERRIES  OR  STRAWBERRIES  A  LA  MICHELET  (Oroutes  aux 

Cerises  ou  aux  Praises  k  la  MicheletX 

Cut  some  slices  an  inch  thick  from  a  very  firm  kitchen  loaf,  using  only  the  crumb  part;  from 
them  obtain  six  rounds  with  a  two  and  a  half  inch  diameter  pastry  cutter,  and  cut  these  rounds  in 
two  through  their  diameter  so  as  to  have  twelve  half-rounds.  Cut  partly  through  these  half-rounds 
a  short  distance  from  the  edge  with  a  small  kitchen  knife,  square  the  corners  and  plunge  them  into 
hot  clarified  butter  to  have  them  assume  a  fine  golden  color.  Drain  them  at  once  on  a  cloth,  wipe 
and  empty  out  the  centers.  Cover  the  inside  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  fill 


882  THE    EPICUREAN. 

them  level  to  the  top  with  rice  and  cream  (No.  160)  flavored  with  vanilla  and  finished  with  a  few 
egg-yolks  and  then  mask  the  tops  with  a  heavy  layer  of  strawberry  jam,  mixed  with  almonds  and 
pistachios.  Dress  these  crusts  prepared  in  this  manner  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  fill  the  center  of  it 
with  stewed  fresh  cherries  or  candied  cherries  washed  in  boiling  water  and  softened  in  a  light 
syrup,  then  mingled  with  apricot  marmalade  and  kirsch.  Serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  cherry 
syrup  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  added  and  flavored  with  kirsch. 

(3025).  CRUSTS  WITH  FRUITS  A  LA  MIRABEAU  (Croutes  aux  Traits  a  la  Mirabeau). 

This  entremets,  though  simple,  can  be  served  at  the  most  sumptuous  dinners.  Cut  a  well-pared 
fresh  pineapple  across  in  two;  divide  the  largest  end  into  two  parts,  and  -hese  into  medium-sized 
slices;  pare  again  to  have  them  all  of  the  same  size  and  shape,  put  them  into  a  vessel  and  moisten 
to  their  height  with  a  cold  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees;  cover  with  a  round  piece  of  paper,  and 
keep  them  in  a  cool  place.  After  six  hours  drain  off  the  syrup,  and  adding  to  it  a  handful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  pour  it  back  on  the  fruit  and  operate  thus  twice,  but  should  preserved  pineapple  be 
used  it  will  require  to  be  done  four  times.  Bake  some  savarin  paste  (No.  148)  in  a  large  buttered 
savarin  mold  (Fig.  139),  or  a  large  cradle  mold,  and  leave  stand  for  twelve  hours.  Cut  this 
cake  straight  on  top.  then  into  transversal  slices  of  equal  thickness,  and  cover  one  side  of 
them  first  with  a  thin  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  then  with  a  layer  of  Conde  prep- 


FIG.  575. 

aration  (No.  2),  range  them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet,  bestrew  with  fine  sugar,  glaze  in  a 
slack  oven,  and  detach  from  the  baking  sheet  as  soon  as  glazed.  Fasten  a  round  flat  of  Genoese 
cake  on  a  dish  and  on  it  place  a  ring  of  the  same  or  of  meringue,  having  it  much  higher  than  the 
flat  itself,  but  not  too  wide  (this  ring  is  intended  to  uphold  the  slices  of  pineapple);  brush  it  over 
with  apricot  marmalade,  also  the  lower  Genoese  flat,  and  let  dry  in  the  air.  Select  some  good, 
large,  preserved  cherries  (demi-sucre),  wash  them  in  warm  water,  and  place  them  in  a  copper  vessel 
with  some  cold  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees.  Now  drain  the  slices  of  pineapple,  and  dress  them 
ppright  in  the  center  of  the  ring,  one  overlapping  the  other,  and  bent  out  slightly  so  they  form  ttn 
shape  of  a  basket.  Then  fill  the  hollow  in  the  inside  with  the  well-drained  cherries,  dressing  them 
in  a  pyramid;  brush  the  pineapple  over  with  some  fine  apricot  marmalade,  diluted  with  Madeira 
wine;  surround  the  base  with  the  slices  of  glazed  savarin,  forming  them  into  a  pretty  crown,  and 
mask  the  whole  lightly  with  the  marmalade.  Serve  with  this  entremets  a  sauce-boatful  of  the  same 
marmalade  diluted  with  syrup  and  Madeira  wine  mixed  with  a  Julienne  of  candied  fruits  cut  from 
orange  or  mandarin  peel,  pears  and  apricots,  adding  a  spoonful  of  pistachios.  To  make  this 
entremets  more  plentiful  the  crusts  can  be  surrounded  at  their  base  with  a  row  of  candied  green- 
gages, cut  in  two,  and  the  stones  replaced  by  almond  paste  (No.  125)  flavored  with  vanilla. 

(3026).  CRUSTS  WITH  MADEIRA  (Croutes  au  Madfcre). 

Wash  in  tepid  water  four  ounces  of  candied  citron  peel,  two  ounces  of  lemon  peel  and  two 
ounces  of  orange  peel,  all  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares.  Put  these  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins  and  two  ounces  of  currants,  well  picked  and  scalded  in  boiling  water, 
then  drained,  and  cover  over  the  whole  with  boiling  Madeira  syrup  and  keep  the  saucepan  well 
closed  in  a  bain-marie  until  ready  to  serve.  Make  a  croustade  from  a  close  and  stale  kitchen  loaf, 
having  it  four  to  six  inches  high,  and  shaped  like  a  vase.  Slit  the  top  near  the  edge  and  pass  a 
skewer  through  its  depth  to  keep  it  straight  while  cooking,  then  fry  to  a  fine  light  golden  color, 
drain  and  sponge  it,  remove  the  skewer  and  the  slit  piece  on  top.  Scoop  out  a  little  of  the  inside 
crumbs,  then  fasten  it  on  the  center  of  a  dish  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  egg-white.  Cut  slices 
of  kitchen  bread  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  from  this  stamp  out  ovals  three  by  two, 
inches;  brown  them  on  both  sides  in  clarified  butter,  drain  and  cover  with  apricot  marmalade 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  883 

(No.  3675);  dress  them  in  a  circle  around  the  croustade  or  else  substitute  slices  of  cooked  brioche, 
having  them  the  same  size;  lay  these  flat  on  a  baking  sheet,  besprinkle  with  sugar  and  brown  in  the 
oven.  Moisten  the  crusts  with  the  syrup  and  arrange  the  fruits  all  around.  Fill  the  croustade 
with  red  stewed  cherries  (No.  3688)  and  angelica  and  serve  with  a  separate  apricot  sauce, 
diluted  with  Madeira  wine.  (See  Humboldt  pudding  No.  3100.) 

(3027).  CRUSTS  WITH  PEACHES  OE  WITH  PEARS  (Croutes  aux  Peches  ou  aux  Poires). 

Put  into  a  sautoir  a  dozen  competed  peaches  cut  in  halves,  all  of  equal  size;  pour  over  some  thick 
syrup  and  keep  them  warm.  Cut  from  a  kitchen  loaf  half-inch  thick  slices  and  from  them  take 
two-inch  in  diameter  rounds,  having  as  many  as  there  are  peaches.  Color  them  in  clarified  butter, 
turning  them  over  when  done  on  one  side  to  color  on  the  other,  then  drain  and  cover  lightly  with 
apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Set  a  half  peach  on  top  of  each  and  dress  them  on  a  dish;  pour 
over  some  peach  syrup  mingled  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  kirsch  and  serve  more  of  this  separately. 

For  Pears. — Replace  the  peaches  by  compoted  pears  and  finish  exactly  the  same. 

(3028).  CRUSTS  WITH  PEARS  A  LA  DOUGLAS  (Croutes  aux  Poires  a  la  Douglas). 

Cut  some  half-inch  thick  slices  from  a  kitchen  loaf  and  form  them  into  rounds  with  a  plain 
cutter  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  remove  the  center  of  these  rounds  with  another  cutter 
an  inch  in  diameter  so  as  to  make  them  into  rings.  Put  two  egg-yolks  into  a  basin  and  dilute  with 
a  pint  of  good  cream,  adding  two  ounces  of  sugar  flavored  with  half  a  grated  orange  peel  and  pass  the 
whole  through  a  colander  over  the  bread  rings.  After  they  have  well  soaked,  drain  and  dip  them 
in  pulverized  macaroons,  then  in  beaten  eggs  and  lastly  roll  in  white  bread-crumbs;  fry  to  a  fine  color 
in  clarified  butter;  drain  and  mask  the  surface  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  throw  over  a 
pinch  of  powdered  burnt  almonds  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  dish;  fill  the  center  with  fine  pears 
cooked  in  syrup,  some  Malaga  raisins  and  candied  orange  peel  cut  in  small  shreds  and  combined 
with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668)  and  maraschino.  Serve  separately  a  sauce-boat  of  kirsch  syrup  thick- 
ened with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  dissolved  apple  jelly  and  the  pulp  of  two  oranges  free  of  their  white 
skin  and  seeds. 

(3029).  CUPOLA  A  LA  MADISON  (Ooupole  k  la  Madison). 

Butter  a  cupola-shaped  mold  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  savarin  paste  (No.  148);  let 
rise  in  a  mild  temperature,  and  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  mold  push  it  into  a  slack  oven 
to  bake;  when  the  cake  is  done  unmold  it  on  a  grate,  cool  well,  replace  it  in  the  mold  and  pare  flush 
with  the  bottom;  unmold  again  and  cut  an  incision  all  around  at  three-quarters  of  its  height, 
with  a  small  kitchen  knife,  keeping  its  point  toward  the  center;  carefully  lift  off  the  lid 
and  empty  out  the  interior,  leaving  the  sides  half  an  inch  thick;  fill  the  empty  cake  with  fine 
paper  to  prevent  it  from  losing  its  shape;  replace  the  lid  and  cover  it  with  a  very  thin  layer  of 
apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  ice  it  with  fondant  (No.  58)  flavored  with  kirsch.  After  this  icing 
is  well  drained  slip  the  cupola  on  a  dish  and  decorate  the  center  of  the  lid  with  a  handsome  rosette 
of  angelica  and  candied  orange  peel,  cue  to  represent  crescents,  arranging  them  alternately;  place 
in  the  center  a  large  cherry  and  surround  the  crescents  with  a  wreath  formed  of  angelica  lozenges 
and  candied  cherries  laid  between.  Range  around  the  base  of  the  cupola  a  circle  of  fine  brandied 
greengages.  Prepare  a  compote  of  pears  cut  in  four,  drain  and  cut  them  up  into  thin  slices,  add- 
ing as  many  preserved  cherries  (demi-sucre)  well  washed  in  hot  water,  and  mingle  the  whole  with 
the  same  quantity  of  white  apple  marmalade,  reduced  and  flavored  with  kirsch.  Ten  minutes 
before  serving  lift  off  the  lid  from  the  timbale,  remove  the  paper  and  fill  it  up  with  the  very  hot 
preparation;  replace  the  lid  and  keep  the  whole  hot  for  a  few  minutes;  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of 
apricot  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001). 

(3030).  DAMPFNOODLES  WITH  CREAM  (Dampfhouilles  a  la  Creme). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  basin  and  make  a  hollow  in  the  center;  lay  in  it  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  compressed  yeast  and  dissolve  it  slowly  with  two  gills  of  warm  milk,  adding  the  flour 
so  as  to  obtain  a  soft  paste;  cover  it  over  with  a  cloth  and  leave  it  in  a  mild  temperature  to  rise 
to  double  its  volume;  then  incorporate  into  this  sponge  four  egg-yolks,  four  spoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
half  a  pound  of  flour  added  very  slowly,  and  lastly  two  ounces  of  butter;  mix  well  for  one  minute 
in  order  to  give  the  paste  a  good  body,  then  lay  it  in  a  vessel  and  let  rise  to  double  its  volume. 
"Work  it  on  a  floured  table  and  roll  into  strings;  divide  each  of  these  into  pieces  and  shape  them 


884  THE    EPICURE  AN. 

into  balls  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  range  these  in  a  buttered  sautoir,  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  apart,  and  leave  them  to  rise  again  to  double  their  volume.  Now  pour  sufficient 
boiling  vanilla-flavored  milk  over  to  have  the  balls  swim  to  half  their  height;  cover  hermetically 
and  put  the  sautoir  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes.  Detach  them  from  the  pan,  and 
dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish;  cover  over  with  some  English  cream  sauce  (No.  3004)  and  serve 
more  of  the  same  separately. 

(3031).  STUFFED  EGGS  ((Eufs  Farcis), 

Choose  seven  or  eight  large,  fresh  and  very  white  eggs;  saw  off  the  top  of  the  shell  on  the 
roundest  end  so  as  to  make  an  opening  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide;  empty  the  eggs  into  a  bowl, 
wash  the  shells  and  leave  to  drain  well.  Beat  the  eggs  up  lightly,  add  to  them  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
rich  raw  cream,  four  spoonfuls  of  powdered  lady  fingers,  six  or  seven  spoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar,  some  cinnamon  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Butter  liberally  the  bottom  of  a  flat  saucepan,  pour  in 
the  eggs  and  thicken  while  stirring  over  a  slow  fire,  the  same  as  for  scrambled  eggs.  When  the  prep- 
aration is  done  to  perfection,  mix  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  lady  fingers  cut  up  in  small  dice, 
and  with  this  fill  the  shells  one  by  one;  lay  each  one  when  done  into  a  separate  egg  cup;  cover 
the  opening  with  a  small  pyramid  of  the  same  cake  cut  small,  and  dress  the  egg  cups  on  a  dish. 

(3032).  EGGS  WITH  OREAM,  MERINGUED  (CEufs  a  la  Oreme  Meringues). 
Have  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl,  beat  them  well,  then  run  them  through  a  sieve;  add  six 
ounces  of  sugar  partly  flavored  with  vanilla  and  eight  pulverized  macaroons;  dilute  the  whole  with 
a  pint  of  raw  cream,  and  stir  the  preparation  on  the  fire  for  a  few  moments  to  warm  it,  then  pour 
it  at  once  into  a  souffle  saucepan  (Fig.  182),  or  simply  a  buttered  pie  plate  (Fig.  183);  let  it  poach 
in  a  bain-marie  in  a  slack  oven,  and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  firm  take  it  from  the  water  and  leave 
gtand  till  cold;  then  cover  the  entire  surface  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Cover  over 
with  a  layer  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  flavored  with  kirsch,  smooth  nicely  and  dredge  the 
top  with  pulverized  macaroons;  let  stand  for  a  few  moments  in  a  slack  oven  and  glaze  it  with 
sugar. 

(3033).  EGGS  WITH  COFFEE  OREAM  MERINGUED  ((Eufs  k  la  Oreme  au  OafS  Meringue's). 
Break  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  vessel,  beat  and  strain  through  a  sieve;  add  a  grain  of  salt, 
two  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  twelve  pulverized  lady  fingers,  four  gills  of  raw  cream  and  one  gill  of 
very  strong  coffee.  Stir  the  preparation  for  two  minutes  on  the  fire,  then  pour  it  into  a 
buttered  tart  dish;  let  it  set  in  a  bain-marie  or  slack  oven  and  remove  as  soon  as  firm.  When 
nearly  cold  cover  over  with  a  layer  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  flavored  with  cognac,  smooth 
nicely  and  besprinkle  with  pulverized  lady  fingers;  poach  for  a  few  moments  in  a  slack  oven,  glazing 
over  with  sugar. 

(3034).  FLAWN  A  LA  MANHATTAN  (Flan  a  la  Manhattan). 

Line  a  flawn  ring  (No.  3170)  with  sweet  paste  (No.  136),  leaving  the  edges  rather  thick,  and  let 
it  rest  for  half  an  hour  in  the  ice-box.  Then  cover  the  paste  with  buttered  paper  and  fill  it  up  with 
dry  rice;  cook  it  in  a  hot  oven  and  as  soon  as  done  empty  it  out  and  cover  the  outside  border  and 
the  inside  surfaces  with  hot  and  well-reduced  peach  marmalade  (No.  3675);  slide  the  pie  on  a  dish; 
dress  against  the  edges  a  circle  of  halved  peaches;  arrange  in  a  pyramid  in  the  center  of  this 
crown  some  quartered  apples  cooked  in  butter  and  cover  the  whole  with  strained  peach  marma- 
lade; sprinkle  over  the  entire  surface  some  finely  chopped  pistachios  and  decorate  between  the 
peaches  on  the  border,  also  on  the  summit  of  the  pie,  with  lozenges  of  angelica  and  candied 
cherries.  Set  it  for  one  instant  in  the  oven  to  warm,  then  serve  with  a  bowlful  of  cream  vanilla 
sauce  (No.  3004). 

(3035).  FLAWN  AU  LION  D'OR  (Flan  au  Lion  d'or). 

Divide  some  apples  in  eight  pieces  each;  peel,  core  and  cook  them  in  butter,  and  when  half 
done  mingle  in  some  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  finish  cooking.  Line  a  flawn  ring  (No. 
3170)  with  fine  short  paste  (No.  135),  raise  the  edges,  pinch  them  and  let  the  flawn  stand  for 
twenty-five  minutes  in  the  ice-box  or  any  other  cool  place.  Then  cover  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  paste  with  buttered  paper,  fill  up  with  dry  rice,  and  cook  in  the  oven.  As  soon  as  the  crust 
is  done,  empty  it  out  and  remove  the  plate,  then  brush  the  surface  with  egg-yolks  and  return  the 
crust  to  the  oven  to  color.  When  cold  mask  the  inside  with  apricot  marmalade,  fill  in  alternate 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  885 

layers  of  white  and  well-reduced  apple  marmalade,  flavored  with  vanilla  and  apples  cooked  in 
butter,  finishing  with  a  layer  of  the  apples;  dredge  powdered  macaroons  over  the  top  and  then 
cover  with  apricot  marmalade  and  on  this  pour  a  Cond6  preparation  (No.  2);  bestrew  with  sugar, 
and  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123),  then  serve.  Have  a  separate  vanilla  syrup  mingled  with 
apricot  marmalade. 

(3036).  ALLIANCE  FEITTEES  (Beignets  Alliance). 

Cut  six  medium-sized  apples  in  transversal  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  remove  the 
cores  with  a  column  tube,  cut  away  the  edges  with  a  two -inch  in  diameter  vegetable  cutter  so  as 
to  have  all  the  rounds  of  the  same  size;  fry  them  in  butter  over  a  brisk  fire,  drain  and  wipe. 
Drain  as  many  halves  of  stewed  peaches  as  there  are  slices  of  apples,  fill  the  hollow  in  the  apples 
with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668).  Prepare  a  fine  paste  with  the  same  quantity  of  dry  macaroons  as 
apple  paste,  and  pound  well  together  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  maraschino,  and  with  this  paste  fill 
the  center  of  the  halved  peaches,  and  fasten  these  on  to  the  rounds  of  apple;  cover  the  other  side 
of  the  apple  with  the  macaroon  paste  to  have  the  whole  form  a  ball;  roll  them  in  cracker  dust, 
and  then  dip  in  frying  batter  (No.  137)  and  plunge  into  hot  frying  fat.  When  the  paste  has  become 
dry  and  well  browned,  drain  the  fritters  on  to  a  cloth,  besprinkle  with  sugar,  and  lay  them  on  a 
tart  dish  to  place  in  the  oven  in  order  that  they  may  glaze.  Serve  separately  a  pineapple  syrup: 
Put  half  a  pint  of  apple  pulp  that  has  been  passed  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  and 
dilute  it  with  three  gills  of  syrup,  boil  up  for  one  minute,  and  then  thicken  this  sauce  with  a 
spoonful  of  fecula  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water;  remove  it  at  once  from  the  fire,  flavor  well  with 
kirsch,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  pineapple  cut  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  squares;  keep  the  sauce 
hot  until  needed. 

(3037).  APPLE  FEITTEES  AND  MONTAGNAED  FEITTEES-GLAZED  AND  UNGLAZED 
(Beignets  de  Pommes  et  Beignets  Montagnard— Glacis  et  non  Glaces). 

Core  some  apples  with  a  column  or  tin  tube  five- eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  peel  them  all 
around,  and  cut  from  them  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  put  to  macerate  in  a  little 
brandy  and  powdered  sugar  for  one  hour,  tossing  them  about  often  so  that  they  all  get  well  covered. 
Dip  each  piece  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  plunge  into  hot  frying  fat;  when  done  and  of  a 
fine  color,  drain  and  dredge  over  with  sugar,  then  dress  on  a  napkin. 

For  Glazed  Fritters. — When  done  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  bestrew  with  sugar,  and  glaze 
in  a  hot  oven,  or  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123);  serve  dressed  on  a  napkin. 

For  Montagnard  Fritters. — After  they  have  been  cooked  and  glazed  as  above,  cover  the  tops 
with  a  layer  of  currant  jelly  placed  on  with  a  spoon,  then  dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve. 

'3038).  APPLE  FRITTEES  WITH  PEUNELLE  OE  WITH  KIESCH  (Beignets  de  Pommes  a  la 

Prunelle  ou  an  Kirsch). 

Peel  some  fine  apples;  cut  them  across  in  three  pieces,  remove  the  cores  with  a  five-eighths  of 
an  inch  diameter  tin  tube,  and  cook  them  partly  in  a  syrup,  then  drain  on  a  sieve.  Make  an  apple 
jelly  (No.  3668),  and  when  done  add  to  it  as  much  peach  marmalade  (No.  3675);  range  the  apples 
on  a  baking  sheet  and  mask  them  several  times  with  the  jelly,  having  sufficient  of  it  to  leave  on 
a  thick  layer.  When  cold  remove  the  slices  of  apple  with  a  knife  and  roll  them  in  powdered 
macaroons,  then  dip  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat.  As  the 
paste  becomes  crisp,  drain  them  off,  wipe  and  brush  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  a  sugar  frosting 
flavored  with  prunelles  or  kirsch. 

(3039).  APEIOOT  OE  PEACH  FEITTEES  WITH  MAEASOHINO  (Beignets  d'Abricots  ou  de  Peches 

au  Marasquin). 

Split  a  dozen  fine  apricots  or  peaches  in  four;  remove  the  stones  and  skin,  then  boil  up  in  a 
light  syrup,  but  keeping  them  firm;  drain  on  a  cloth,  wipe  and  fill  the  hollow  space  left  by  the 
stone  with  a  ball  of  macaroon  paste  pounded  with  a  little  maraschino;  cover  over  with  a  light  layer 
of  peach  marmalade  (No.  3675),  roll  them  at  once  in  pulverized  macaroons  and  dip  them  in  frying 
batter  (No.  137),  then  plunge  in  hot  frying  fat  and  fry  the  fritters  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  wipe 
and  dredge  over  with  vanilla  sugar  and  dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  separately 
a  sauce  made  of  puree  of  apricots  if  the  fritters  be  of  apricots,  flavored  with  maraschino,  or  of 
peaches  if  the  fritters  are  of  peaches. 


886  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

Another  way  is  to  peel  the  apricots  or  peaches,  cut  them  in  four,  then  place  the  pieces  in  a 
vessel  with  sugar,  maraschino  and  a  little  vanilla  syrup;  one  hour  later  drain  and  roll  them  in 
powdered  macaroons  passed  through  a  coarse  sieve.  Dip  the  pieces  in  frying  batter  (No.  137)  and 
immerse  in  hot  fat,  then  fry  to  a  fine  color.  After  the  paste  is  well  fried,  drain,  wipe  and  be- 
sprinkle with  vanilla  sugar,  then  dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  the  same  sauce  as  for  the  above. 

'3040),  BRIOCHE  AND  CREAM  FRITTERS  WITH  SABAYON  (Beignets  de  Brioche  a  la  Creme 

au  Sabayon). 

Butter  a  tin  mold  forming  a  box  four  inches  wide  by  three  inches  deep  and  eight  inches  long, 
with  a  hinged  cover;  fill  it  half  full  with  brioche  paste  (No.  130);  let  it  rise  in  a  mild  temperature 
until  the  box  is  full,  close  the  cover  and  fasten  the  catch,  then  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  As 
soon  as  done,  unmold  and  lay  it  on  a  wicker  stand  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  to  use  only  twelve 
hours  later.  Now  pare  and  cut  it  up  into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  slices;  cut  these  straight 
through  the  center  so  as  to  obtain  oblong  pieces  three  inches  long  by  one  and  a  half  inches  wide. 
Dilute  six  egg-yolks  with  one  quart  of  double  cream  and  two  ounces  of  vanilla-flavored  sugar;  run 
the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  dip  into  it  the  pieces  of  brioche  so  that  they  soak  in  well;  drain  them 
off  and  plunge  into  hot  frying  fat,  then  drain  again  and  wipe;  besprinkle  with  powdered  vanilla 
sugar  and  dress  in  a  pyramid.  Serve  a  sabayon  with  Madeira  wine  separately.  (See  cabinet  pud- 
ding with  sabayon,  No.  3096.) 

(3041),  OELERIAO,  PEAR  AND  QUARTERED  APPLE  FRITTERS  (Beignets  de  Oeleris-Raves  de 

Poires  et  de  Quartiers  de  Pommes). 

Celeriac. — Cut  some  celery  roots  in  four,  pare  neatly  and  blanch  them  in  plenty  of  water, 
then  drain  and  finish  cooking  in  a  twenty-two  degree  syrup  with  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  added; 
when  done,  drain,  wipe  dry  and  leave  to  get  cold,  then  dip  them  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and 
plunge  into  hot  fat.  As  soon  as  of  a  fine  color  and  the  paste  is  crisp,  drain  and  wipe  them  off, 
bestrew  over  with  sugar  and  serve. 

Pear  Fritters  are  prepared  the  same,  either  with  small  pears  or  quartered  larger  ones, 
blanched  and  cooked  in  syrup  and  kirsch.  Should  the  pears  be  very  ripe  they  may  be  used  raw 
arid  finished  exactly  the  same  as  celery  fritters. 

Quartered  Apples. — Peel  and  core  the  apples,  cook  them  firmly  in  a  light  syrup  with  mara- 
schino, drain  and  fry  the  same  as  for  the  above;  glaze  with  sugar,  pour  over  some  rum  and  serve. 

(3042),  CHERRY  FRITTERS— FRESH  OR  BRANDIED  (Beignets  de  Cerises  Fraiches  ou  k 

l'Ean-de-vie). 

Select  some  large  and  fine  fresh  cherries,  remove  the  pits  and  lay  the  fruit  in  a  bowl  to 
sprinkle  over  with  sugar,  pour  on  a  few  spoonfuls  of  kirsch  and  let  macerate  for  one  hour.  Then 
drain  and  thread  eight  of  them  on  a  silver  skewer  or  a  straw;  roll  these  in  lady  finger  dust  and  dip 
in  frying  batter  (No.  137);  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat  and  when  the  paste  is  fried  and  well 
colored  dram  off  the  fritters  on  a  cloth,  sponge  them  and  dredge  over  with  vanilla  sugar,  then 
dress  them  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  cherry  sauce  made  with 
cherry  puree  and  flavored  with  kirsch. 

For  Brandied  Cherry  Fritters. — Prepare  as  above,  using  brandied  cherries;  besprinkle  with 
sugar  when  the  pits  have  been  removed  and  finish  as  above.  For  the  sauce,  crush  four  ounces  of 
sour  cherries,  put  this  into  a  copper  pan  with  a  pint  of  red  Bordeaux  wine,  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
a  small  piece  of  cinnamon  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon;  leave  to  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain 
the  liquid  through  a  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  pan;  thicken  with  a  little  fecula  diluted  in  a  small 
quantity  of  cold  water  and  strain  this  sauce  once  more  through  the  sieve;  now  add  to  it  a  heavy 
handful  of  candied  cherries  washed  in  hot  water  and  serve. 

(3043).  CREAM  OF  RICE  FRITTERS  (Beignets  de  Creme  de  Riz\ 

Dissolve  ten  ounces  of  rice  flour  in  a  bowl  with  one  quart  of  cold  milk;  pass  this  through  a 
sieve  into  a  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  a  gram  of  salt,  three  ounces  of  butter,  two  spoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  the  fourth  part  of  a  vanilla  bean;  stir  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then  continue  to 
cook  the  preparation  for  twenty  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  range,  adding  to  it  a  little  raw  cream. 
Take  out  the  vanilla,  and  pour  into  another  saucepan,  then  reduce  it  for  a  few  moments.  When 
consistent  take  it  from  the  fire  and  mix  in  with  it  three  ounces  of  pulverized  macaroons,  a  piece  of 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  887 

fresh  butter,  and  five  or  six  well-beaten  whole  eggs.  When  the  preparation  has  been  thoroughly 
mingled  prepare  some  wafer  sheets,  three  and  a  half  inches  by  two  and  a  half;  soften  them  between 
two  damp  napkins,  and  lav  on  the  preparation  run  through  a  pocket  into  sticks  three-quarters  of  an. 
inch  in  diameter,  having  them  the  whole  length  of  the  leaves;  roll  them  into  cylindricals  and  faste- 
the  edges  firmly,  or  else  it  may  be  poured  directly  on  a  baking  sheet  without  wafers,  dampened 
with  cold  water,  to  the  thickness  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch,  and  then  set  aside  to  cool  for  a  few 
hours.  Divide  the  preparation  into  pieces,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide  by  three  and  a  half 
inches  long,  or  an  inch  and  a  half  cubes,  or  else  in  rounds  measuring  one  and  five-eighths  inches 
in  diameter  by  three-quarters  thick;  roll  the  fritters  in  pulverized  macaroons,  then  in  beaten 
eggs  and  lastly  in  bread-crumbs:  plunge  them  into  hot  frying  fat,  a  few  at  a  time,  and  when  they 
have  attained  a  fine  color  drain  and  wipe,  bestrew  with  powdered  vanilla-flavored  sugar  and 
dress  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(3044).  MUNDANE  FKITTEES  (Beignets  Mondains), 

Prepare  a  cream  cake  paste,  the  same  as  for  souffle  fritters  a  la  Medicis  (No.  3047).  Cut  some 
bands  of  paper  three  inches  long  by  two  inches  wide,  and  butter  them  over.  Pour  the  paste  into 
a  pocket  furnished  with  a  channeled  socket  and  push  through  on  to  each  paper  band  a  string 
of  paste  to  form  a  large  S,  both  ends  being  rolled.  Heat  some  fat  made  with  beef  kidney  suet  and 
lard  in  a  large  frying  pan,  and  when  this  is  hot  plunge  in  sufficient  of  the  fritters  to  cover  the  sur- 
face; lift  off  the  papers  as  quickly  as  they  detach  from  the  paste  and  fry  the  fritters  slowly  while 
turning  them  over;  when  fried  and  of  a  fine  color  drain  them  on  a  sieve.  After  they  become 
partly  cold  dip  them  one  by  one  in  a  clear  rum  icing  made  with  fine  sugar  and  the  liquor.  Drain 
and  place  them  at  once  on  a  pastry  grate  laid  on  top  of  a  tin  plate  so  that  the  icing  drains  off 
properly;  when  the  fritters  are  dry  dress  and  serve. 

(3045).  ORANGE  FRITTERS  A  LA  TALLEYRAND  (Beignets  d'Oranges  a  la  Talleyrand). 
For  one-third. — Cut  two  oranges  into  six  pieces,  leaving  on  the  rind,  then  peel  them  closely 
and  remove  the  seeds;  besprinkle  with  fine  sugar  and  drain  on  a  cloth;  dip  each  separate  piece  in 
frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  plunge  into  hot  fat,  and  when  of  a  fine  color  and  very  crisp  drain  these 
six  pieces  on  a  baking  sheet  and  glaze  the  surfaces  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123). 

For  one-third. — Peel  a  medium-sized  orange,  divide  it  as  for  orange  glacees  with  caramel  and 
immerse  them  in  frying  batter  (No.  137),  plunge  into  very  hot  fat,  and  when  they  have  attained  s 
fine  color  drain  and  besprinkle  with  vanilla  sugar. 

For  one-third. — Peel  three  oranges  to  the  pulp  and  pass  a  knife  between  the  sections;  take  ofir 
all  the  skin  and  suppressing  the  seeds  macerate  in  a  little  prunelle  and  sugar;  wrap  two  pieces, 
of  orange  in  a  rissole  made  of  very  thin  brioche  paste  (No.  130),  having  it  two  and  a  quarter  inches 
in  diameter;  fold  the  paste  over  and  fasten  the  edges  together,  then  put  to  rise  in  a  mild  temper- 
ature; fry  to  a  fine  color,  drain  well,  dry  and  glaze  with  a  light  flavored  icing  (No.  102).  Dress 
these  three  kinds  of  fritters  on  a  napkin,  all  on  the  same  dish,  but  in  separate  groups. 

(3046).  SINGAPORE  FRITTERS  (Beignets  Singapore). 

Dry  two  dozen  macaroons;  break  them  up  and  mash  them  with  some  rum  in  order  to  make  a 
consistent  paste.  Peel  neatly  a  medium-sized  ripe  pineapple;  remove  the  core  with  a  column  tube 
five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  split  it  lengthwise  in  two;  cut  from  each  half,  even  slices, 
having  them  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  put  these  slices  in  a  vessel,  bestrew  with  sugar,  and  pour 
over  some  brandy,  then  let  macerate  for  two  hours.  Drain,  wipe,  and  cover  one  side  with  the 
macaroon  and  rum  paste;  lay  another  slice  on  top  and  fasten  the  two  together  so  as  to  enclose  the 
macaroons,  then  roll  them  in  powdered  cracker,  and  dip  them  in  frying  batter  (No.  137);  plunge 
into  hot  frying  fat,  and  when  the  paste  becomes  crisp  and  of  a  fine  color  drain  off  the  fritters,  wipe 
and  dredge  with  sugar;  set  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  push  them  into  a  hot  oven  to  glaze,  and  dress  in 
a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675) 
diluted  with  the  pineapple  infusion  and  a  little  rum,  adding  some  square  pieces  of  pineapple. 

(3047).  SCUFFLED  FRITTERS  A  LA  MEDICIS  (Beignets  Souffles  a  la  M6dicis). 

Put  a  pint  of  water  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  sugar,  and  a 

grain  of  salt;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  at  the  first  boil  remove  it  on  one  side  and  mix  in  quickly 

half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour;  thicken  the  paste  over  the  fire,  dry  for  a  few  moments,  working  it 

continually,  and  then  take  it  off  to  have  it  lose  its  greatest  heat,  but  continuing  to  stir  it  steadily. 


888  THE    EPICURE AISTC 

Then  add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  orange  flower  water  and  seven  to  eight  eggs,  breaking  them  in 
one  by  one.  Take  up  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  this  paste,  and  push  it  with  the  finger  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  give  it  a  round  shape,  then  let  it  fall  into  hot  frying  fat:  stir  all  the  time  until 
the  fritters  assume  a  fine  golden  color,  then  drain  on  to  a  cloth  and  besprinkle  with  vanilla-flavored 
sugar;  glaze  them  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  dress  on  a  napkin.  Serve  separately  a  sauce-boatful  of 
chocolate  cream  prepared  as  follows:  Place  in  a  saucepan  three  egg-yolks,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  fecula;  beat  well  and  dilute  the  preparation  with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  into 
which  has  been  added  the  fourth  part  of  a  vanilla  bean;  stir  the  whole  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as 
it  thickens  pour  it  over  an  ounce  of  dissolved  cocoa;  mingle  all  well  together,  pass  through  a 
tammy  and  let  get  cold,  afterward  adding  to  it  twice  as  much  whipped  cream;  serve  at  the  same 
time  as  the  fritters. 

(3048),  SOUFFLED  FRITTERS  WITH  LEMON  PEEL  OR  WITH  ROASTED  HAZEL-NUTS 
(Beignets  Souffle's  aux  Zestes  de  Citron  ou  aux  Noisettes  GrilleesX 

With  Lemon  Peel. — Put  into  a  small  saucepan  two  gills  of  water,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a 
pinch  of  sugar  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Stand  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  remove  it  at  the  first  boil, 
Mien  incorporate  four  ounces  of  fine  sifted  flour,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  cream  cake  paste  (No. 
132).  When  the  paste  has  become  smooth  beat  it  for  a  few  moments  on  the  fire  to  dry,  then  take 
it  off  and  let  cool  partly.  Then  incorporate  three  whole  eggs  and  two  yolks,  putting  them  in  singly, 
also  a  little  finely  chopped  lemon  peel.  The  paste  must  be  rather  too  hard  than  too  soft.  Have  a 
deep  pan;  heat  in  it  moderately  some  fine  frying  fat,  half  clarified  butter  and  half  lard;  take  it  from 
the  range  to  the  side  of  the  fire.  Take  up  the  paste  in  small  quantities  with  a  teaspoon  and  let  it  fal] 
on  a  floured  table;  roll  into  balls  and  arrange  each  one  as  soon  as  done  on  a  small  smooth  saucepan 
cover,  then  slip  them  into  the  hot  fat,  a  few  at  a  time.  After  the  fritters  are  all  in  the  fat  bring 
the  saucepan  back  to  the  hot  fire  so  as  to  gradually  increase  the  heat,  being  careful  to  toss  the 
fritters  continuously.  When  they  are  all  of  a  fine  color  drain  and  roll  each  one  in  vanilla  sugar 
and  dress  on  a  napkin. 

With  Roasted  Hazel-nuts. — A  pint  of  milk,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  five  eggs  and  four 
ounces  of  roasted  hazel-nuts,  pounded  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  kirsch.  Finish  the  same  as  the 
above. 

(3049).  STRAWBERRY  FRITTERS  WITH  MACAROONS,  GARNISHED  WITH  GLAZED  STRAW- 
BERRY FRITTERS  (Beignets  de  Praises  aux  Macarons,  Garnis  de  Beignets  de  Praises  Glac6s), 
Procure  some  large  strawberries;  cover  them  entirely  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and 

roll  them  in  pulverized  macaroons,  then  dip  them  one  by  one  into  a  light  frying  batter  (No.  137), 

and  plunge  them  immediately  into  very  hot  frying  fat.     When  the  paste  has  fried,  and  is  of  a  fine 

color,  drain  them  off,  and  roll  in  vanilla-flavored  sugar;  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  surrounded  by  the 

strawberry  fritters. 

Strawberry  Fritters. — These  are  large  strawberries  dipped  in  frying  batter,  and  plunged  into 

very  hot  frying  fat,  drained,  wiped,  and  bestrewn  with  sugar,  then  glazed  in  the  oven;  dress  them 

around  the  above  strawberry  fritters. 

(3050),  ROMAN  TRIUMVIRATE  FRITTERS  (Beignets  Triumvirat  Romain), 
This  hot  dessert  is  composed  of  three  sorts  of  fritters:  Stuffed  greengages,  stuffed  pears  and 
stuffed  pineapple. 

The  Stuffed  Greengages  are  made  by  splitting  some  very  ripe  and  sound  gages  through  the 
middle;  separate  the  two  parts  and  remove  the  stone;  apply  on  the  cut  side  a  macaroon 
paste  made  by  pounding  macaroons  to  a  paste  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668)  and  kirsch.  Give  them 
the  original  shape,  roll  them  in  powdered  macaroons  and  dip  in  frying  batter  (No.  137);  plunge 
them  into  hot  frying  fat  and  when  the  paste  is  fried  and  of  a  fine  color,  drain  and  wipe;  besprinkle 
with  sugar  and  glaze  either  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123)  or  in  a  hot  oven. 

The  Stuffed  Pears  are  made  by  peeling  some  medium  pears,  leaving  on  the  stalks  and  emptying 
them  from  the  other  end  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91),  removing  all  the  seeds.  Cook  them  in  a 
light  syrup,  drain  and  wipe  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  candied  apricots  cut  in  three-sixteenths 
inch  squares  and  mingled  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  cork  up  the  opening  with  a  round 
piece  of  pear  or  angelica,  and  dip  them  in  a  frying  batter  (No.  137),  and  then  in  plenty  of  hot  fat  to 
fry  to  a  good  golden  brown;  drain,  wipe  and  bestrew  with  vanilla  sugar. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  889 

For  Stuffed  Pineapples. — Peel  a  pineapple  neatly,  and  divide  it  into  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
slices,  and  each  of  these  in  four;  lay  them  in  a  vessel,  pour  over  some  good  brandy,  and  dredge 
with  powdered  sugar,  leaving  them  to  macerate  for  half  an  hour;  drain,  wipe,  put  together  two  by 
two  with  a  layer  of  hazelnut  paste  with  cooked  sugar  (No.  125);  press  down  and  dip  in  frying  batter 
(No.  137),  then  in  white  frying  fat.  When  the  fritters  are  of  a  fine  color,  drain,  wipe  and  lay  them 
on  a  baking  sheet,  bestrew  with  sugar  and  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123).  Dress  in  three  dis- 
tinct groups  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  pineapple  and  prurielle  as 
follows:  Mix  equal  parts  of  grated  pineapple  and  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire  and  leave  boil  up  once  or  twice:  then  dilute  with  as  much  syrup,  and  flavor  nicely  with 
prunelle  liquor. 

(3051).  FETJITS  A  LA  OEEOLE  (Fruits  &  la  Oriole). 

Cut  lengthwise  in  two  one  large,  well-pared  pineapple,  either  fresh  or  preserved.  Divide  each 
half  into  slices  of  even  length  and  thickness,  not  having  them  too  thin,  and  lay  them  in  a  flat  dish 
to  cover  with  a  cold  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees;  let  macerate  for  two  or  three  hours.  Beside 
these  split  in  halves  five  or  six  fine  peaches,  not  too  ripe,  suppress  the  stones,  then  lay  a  few  at  a 
time  on  a  large  skimmer  and  plunge  into  boiling  water;  remove  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  leave 
them  until  the  skins  detach,  then  throw  them  at  once  into  cold  water.  As  soon  as  the  skins  are 
peeled  off  drain  and  macerate  them  for  one  hour  in  a  cold  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees  and 
covered  with  a  round  piece  of  white  paper.  In  case  no  fresh  peaches  can  be  procured  use  canned 
ones  cut  in  two;  after  removing  them  from  the  can  they  should  be  wiped  on  a  cloth  and  then  ranged 


in  a  china  vessel  and  covered  with  a  cold  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees,  afterward  with  a  round 
piece  of  white  paper.  Cook  in  milk  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  blanched  Carolina  rice,  keeping 
it  consistent  but  tender;  sweeten  it  well  at  the  last  moment,  finishing  with  a  little  cream,  fresh  but- 
ter and  a  few  egg-yolks.  With  this  rice  fill  a  buttered  pyramidical  tin  mold  shaped  like  a  funnel; 
press  down  the  rice  and  lay  the  mold  in  a  narrow  but  deep  bain-marie  saucepan,  and  keep  it  hot  for 
ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve  drain  the  pineapples  and  peaches;  unmold  the 
rice  on  a  cooked  paste  (No.  131)  foundation,  a  little  wider  than  the  circumference  of  the  mold,  hav- 
ing it  attached  to  the  center  of  a  dish;  dress  the  slices  of  pineapple  erect  against  the  pyramid,  lightly 
overlapping  them,  and  dress  the  half  peaches  around  the  pineapple.  Arange  in  a  crown-shape  on  top 
of  the  pyramid  a  few  angelica  leaves  cut  into  points  and  fill  the  center  with  a  cluster  of  fine  large 
red  candied  cherries.  Brush  the  fruits  over  with  a  thick  vanilla  syrup  and  serve  with  a  sauce-tooat 
of  apricot  and  maraschino  sauce  (No.  3001). 

(3052).  GEENADES  WITH  OHEEEIES  (Grenades  aux  Cerises). 

Divide  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  into  twelve  even  parts;  roll  each  one 
into  a  separate  ball  and  lay  these  in  bottomless  oval  molds,  three  inches  long,  one  and  three-quarters 
inches  wide  and  one  and  three-quarters  inches  high;  let  rise  until  they  are  almost  full,  then  cook 
in  a  hot  oven;  as  soon  as  done  unmold  the  cakes  on  a  grate  and  let  cool  off;  then  pare  them  with  a 
knife  to  give  them  the  appearance  of  an  egg.  Put  ten  egg-yolks  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar  in  a 
bowl  and  dilute  with  a  quart  of  cream  flavored  with  vanilla,  then  strain  through  a  tammy.  Soak 
the  brioches  in  this  cream,  drain  and  roll  them  in  pulverized  macaroons;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  plunge  into  hot  frying  fat  to  fry  to  a  fine  color;  drain,  wipe  and  dish  them 
up  in  a  circle;  fill  the  interior  space  with  a  compote  of  cherries  with  prunelle  and  serve  separately 
some  of  the  syrup  from  the  compote. 


890  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3053).  MAZARINE  WITH  PINEAPPLE  AND  KIRSOH  (Mazarine  a  1' Ananas  et  au  Kirsch). 

Butter  a  timbale  mold  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  savarin  paste  (No.  148);  let  rise  in  a 
mild  temperature,  and  when  this  has  reached  nearly  to  the  height  of  the  top  edges  lay  it  on  a 
tart  plate  and  push  into  a  brisk  oven  in  order  to  bake  the  cake  nicely.  Unmold  as  soon  as  it  is 
done  and  leave  stand  till  cold.  Now  pare  the  cake  evenly  and  cut  it  into  transversal  slices  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  cover  each  of  these  with  a  layer  of  pineapple  marmalade  flavored  with  kirsch, 
and  spread  over  some  very  finely  chopped  pistachios;  reconstruct  the  cake  as  originally  and  mask 
the  outside  with  hot  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  bestrew  with  a  mixture  of  chopped  pistachios 
and  dried  almonds,  then  slide  it  on  a  dish  to  keep  warm.  Wash  at  the  same  time  in  hot  water  four 
ounces  of  citron,  two  ounces- of  angelica,  and  four  ounces  of  orange  peel,  all  cut  into  thin  inch-long 
fillets;  put  these  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  twenty-eight  degree  syrup,  place  it  on  the  fire  and 
let  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  withdraw  the  saucepan  to  one  side,  and  incorporate  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  very  fresh  butter  divided  in  small  pats,  stirring  constantly  so  as  to  mingle  the  butter 
well  with  the  sauce;  flavor  with  a  gill  of  kirsch,  and  serve  this  in  a  sauce-boat  to  accompany  the 
mazarine. 

(3054).  MIELITONS  OP  PEAKS  A  LA  BIENVENUE  (Mirlitons  de  Poires  a  la  Bienvenue). 

Butter  and  line  a  dozen  deep  tartlet  molds  with  fragments  of  puff  paste  (No.  146);  range  them  on 
a  baking  sheet  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  Put  into  a  basin  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  four 
ounces  of  sifted  flour  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water;  dilute  with  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  cream  and  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Place  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  half-inch 
ball  in  the  bottom  of  each  mold,  and  set  the  baking  sheet  at  the  mouth  of  the  oven  door,  then  fill 
the  molds  with  the  above  preparation;  dredge  sugar  over  and  push  the  sheet  gently  into  a  warm 
spot.  In  the  meantime  peel  a  dozen  fine  small  Sickle  pears;  empty  out  the  insides  with  a  vegetable 
spoon  (Fig.  91)  and  cook  them  in  a  light  syrup;  drain  well  and  fill  the  insides  with  well-washed 
candied  apricot  cut  in  small  squares.  Lay  one  pear  in  each  tartlet  and  cover  with  an  apricot  and 
kirsch  sauce.  Bestrew  shredded  pistachios  over  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  round  dish,  filling 
up  the  center  with  competed  cherries;  serve  an  apricot  sauce  with  kirsch  and  brandy  (No.  3001) 
apart. 

(3055).  MUNICH  WITH  PEACHES  (Munich  aux  Peches). 

Butter  twelve  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137);  fill  them  half  full  with  savarin  paste  (No.  148), 
and  let  rise  in  a  mild  temperature,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  As  soon  as  done  cut  them  off  even 
with  the  edges,  unmold  and  dip  them  at  once  in  a  lemon  syrup  flavored  with  Curacao,  maraschino  and 
kirsch.  Drain  on  a  grate,  glaze  with  a  light  orange  icing  (No.  102),  and  decorate  the  top  of  each 
cake  with  a  rosette  of  halved  pistachios,  having  a  halved  candied  cherry  in  the  center.  Range  them 
in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  fill  up  the  inside  with  compoted  peaches;  serve  a  marmalade  of  peaches 
(No.  3675)  passed  through  a  sieve  and  flavored  with  noyau  in  a  separate  sauce-boat;  see  Cleveland 
peach  pudding  (No.  3102). 

(3056).  SMALL  CELESTINE  OMELETS  (Petites  Omelettes  Celestine). 

Make  a  dozen  small  omelets,  and  when  done  slip  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cover  four  of 
them  with  cream  frangipane  (No.  44)  and  chopped  or  finely  cut-up  candied  fruits,  four  with  apple 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  almonds,  and  four  with  strawberry  marmalade.  Fold  over  flat  or  else  roll 
them  and  cut  off  the  ends;  divide  each  one  in  two  and  arrange  them  in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  hot 
dish;  pour  over  some  apricot  sauce  with  rum,  and  dredge  over  the  surface  pistachios  and  sweet 
almonds  cut  in  dice  and  two  spoonfuls  of  dry  currants;  serve  at  once. 

(3057).  OELESTINE  OMELET  WITH  WHIPPED  OEEAM  (Omelette  0§lestine  a  la  Oreme 

Fouettee). 

Break  three  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  add  to  them  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  coffeespoonful  of  sugar;  beat 
the  whole  well  and  run  it  through  a  sieve.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  medium-sized  frying  pan  with 
clarified  butter,  heat  and  pour  it  in  the  preparation,  spreading  it  over  the  entire  surface  so  as  to 
obtain  a  mellow  omelet.  Put  in  a  vessel  two  spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  and  dilute  it  with  double 
its  quantity  of  sweetened  whipped  cream,  then  incorporate  into  this  two  crushed  macaroons;  lay 
this  cream  in  the  center  of  the  omelet,  raise  the  edges  to  inclose  it  well,  and  invert  it  on  a  dish. 
Powder  over  with  powdered  sugar,  and  glaze  with  a  red-hot  iron.  Dress  on  each  side  a  spoonful 
of  whipped  cream  mixed  with  currant  jelly  and  crushed  macaroons. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  891 

(3058).  FEANGIPANE  OMELET  (Omelette  a  la  Frangipane). 

Prepare  a  frangipane  cream  with  vanilla  and  almonds  (No.  44).  Beat  up  ten  eggs  in  a  vessel 
with  a  grain  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  the  same  of  melted  butter;  dilute  the  whole 
with  a  gill  of  cream.  Make  with  this  a  dozen  small  omelets  in  a  pancake  pan  buttered  with  clari- 
fied butter;  after  taking  them  from  the  pan,  slip  them  on  a  baking  tin  and  cover  over  one  side 
with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  frangipane;  fold  them  up  flat  and  cut  off  the  ends,  bestrew  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123),  then  dress  in  a  pyramid. 


(3059).  SUM  OMELET  (Omelette  au  Ehum). 

Beat  up  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  add  to  them  a  grain  of  salt,  two  spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  good  rum.  Warm  a  little  butter  in  a  pan  and  pour  in  the  beaten 
eggs,  thickening  them  over  a  brisk  fire  stirring  with  a  large  fork.  Fold  over  the  omelet  as 
fast  as  it  detaches  from  the  pan,  and  invert  it  with  one  stroke  on  a  long  dish;  strew  its  entire  sur- 
face with  powdered  sugar  and  glaze  it  with  an  omelet  iron  heated  in  the  fire,  decorating  the  top 
any  desired  fashion.  Serve  the  omelet  after  pouring  a  few  spoonfuls  of  rum  with  a  little  syrup  into 
the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  setting  it  on  fire. 


(3060).  OMELET  SOUFPLE,  ANCIENT  STYLE  (Omelette  Sonfflfe  a  I'Ancienne). 

Melt  half  a  pound  of  good  butter  and  have  it  clarified.  Put  into  a  glazed  vessel  fourteen  egg- 
yolks  and  ten  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar;  beat  the  preparation  the  same  as  for  lady  fingers,  or  until 
it  becomes  frothy  and  light,  then  add  to  it  a  grain  of  salt,  seven  or  eight  pulverized  macaroons, 
and  lastly  sixteen  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites.  Pour  the  melted  butter  into  two  clean  omelet  pans, 
heat  and  putting  half  the  preparation  into  each,  toss  slowly  to  warm  them  both  at  once,  having  them 
absorb  all  the  butter,  and  keep  them  well  rounded;  transfer  them  immediately  into  two  deep, 
buttered  dishes,  and  push  into  a  slack  but  well-regulated  oven;  remove  two  minutes  later  and  split 
them  down  through  their  entire  depth,  then  return  them  to  the  oven.  Twelve  to  fifteen  minutes 
siiffice  to  cook  the  omelets.  When  done  and  light,  besprinkle  liberally  with  powdered  vanilla 
sugar  (No.  3165),  and  two  minutes  later  remove  from  the  oven  and  serve  immediately. 


(3061).  OMELET  SOUFFLE-LIGHT  (Omelette  Souffle^  Legere). 

Put  three  spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  four  ounces  of  flour,  a  grain  of  salt  and  some  lemon 
peel  into  a  vessel,  and  dilute  it  first  with  ten  egg-yolks,  then  with  half  a  gill  of  raw  cream,  in  order 
to  obtain  a  paste  the  same  consistency  as  a  frying  paste;  incorporate  into  it  six  well-beaten  whites 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  whipped  cream.  Have  some  melted  butter  in  a  large  pan;  when 
hot  pour  in  the  preparation  and  cook  it  the  same  as  for  an  omelet  souffle  with  preserves  (No.  3065); 
when  done  to  perfection  slip  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper  and  strew  over  with  sugar;  roll  it  on  itself, 
and  dress  on  a  dish;  dredge  more  sugar  over,  and  glaze  in  the  oven  or  under  a  salamander  (Fig. 
123). 


(3062).  OMELET  SOUFFLE  WITH  ALMONDS  (Omelette  Souffle^e  aux  Amandes). 

For  six  persons.  Beat  up  six  egg-yolks,  twelve  shelled,  skinned  and  crushed  bitter  almonds, 
and  six  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar  in  a  bowl  the  same  as  for  lady  fingers;  add  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon 
and  a  grain  of  salt;  as  the  preparation  becomes  light  stir  in  delicately  the  beaten  egg-whites,  using 
a  spoon,  and  cutting  it  with  this.  The  mixture  should  now  stand  alone  without  any  danger  of  sink- 
ing, then  pour  it  into  a  long  buttered  plated  dish,  smooth  the  surface,  shaping  it  like  a  large  folded 
omelet,  and  push  the  dish  into  a  well-heated  but  not  too  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  the  omelet  begins  to 
brown  remove  and  split  it  lengthways  through  the  center  with  a  knife,  being  careful  not  to  press 
too  hard,  then  replace  it  in  the  oven  and  be  careful  to  turn  the  dish  around  from  time  to  time. 
Let  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes;  cover  with  sugar  before  it  is  finished  so  that  it  can  glaze,  and  when 
removed  dredge  over  more  sugar  before  serving. 


892  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3063).  OMELET  SOUFFLE  WITH  APPLES  (Omelette  Souffle'e  aux  Pommes), 

Prepare  an  omelet  souffle  preparation  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  light  omelet  souffle  (No.  3061). 
Cut  four  or  five  good  apples  in  quarters,  peel,  core  and  mince,  then  put  them  into  a  pan  with  warm 
butter,  and  toss  on  a  moderate  fire;  besprinkle  with  sugar,  and  cook  without  letting  them  melt; 
then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  to  thicken  the  contents  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675).  Have  four  spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter  in  a  large  frying-pan;  when  hot  pour 
in  the  omelet  preparation,  heat  it  for  two  minutes,  then  push  the  pan  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  the 
omelet;  when  firm  slip  it  on  a  large  sheet  of  paper,  then  turn  it  over  again  into  the  pan  after  having 
buttered  it  once  more.  When  done  slip  it  on  the  paper  again  and  fill  it  with  the  apples.  Roll  it 
on  itself,  dress  on  a  dish,  bestrew  the  surface  with  sugar,  then  glaze. 


(3064).  OMFLET  SOUFFLE  WITH  MACAEOONS  (Omelette  Soufflee  aux  Macarons). 

Stir  in  a  bowl  six  egg-yolks  with  a  grain  of  salt  and  seven  ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  The  whole 
should  get  quite  frothy.  Pound  six  macaroons,  and  shake  them  through  a  sieve;  beat  up  six  egg- 
whites  and  mix  them  gradually  with  the  former  preparation,  also  stir  in  the  macaroon  powder  at 
the  same  time.  Melt  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  pan,  and  when  hot  pour  in  the  omelet  and  toss 
it  very  slowly  over  the  fire  to  heat  through,  then  double  it  over,  and  invert  it  on  a  long  buttered 
plated  dish,  and  finish  cooking  the  omelet  in  a  slack  oven.  A  few  seconds  before  taking  it  out 
besprinkle  bountifully  with  powdered  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  to  glaze.  In  order  to  have  an  omelet 
souffle  perfect,  the  guest  should  be  kept  waiting. 

(3065).  OMELET  SOUFFLE  WITH  PEESEEVES  (Omelette  Souffle'e  aux  Confitures). 

Place  in  a  bowl  five  ounces  of  flour  with  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  dilute  with  two  gills 
of  milk,  strain  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  into  a  saucepan  and  add  to  it  a  bit  of  lemon  peel,  a 
grain  of  salt  and  three  ounces  of  melted  butter;  stir  the  preparation  over  a  slow  fire  to  thicken  and 
boil  for  two  minutes  without  leaving  it,  and  when  it  is  taken  from  the  fire  remove  the  lemon  peel 
and  five  minutes  after  work  in  six  or  seven  egg-yolks,  one  at  a  time,  without  ceasing  to  beat; 
when  cold  stir  in  the  beaten  whites.  Put  into  a  large  frying  pan  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of 
clarified  butter;  when  hot  pour  in  the  preparation,  spreading  it  over  the  entire  surface,  and  two 
minutes  after  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  on  a  trivet;  as  soon  as  the  top  is  firm  turn  the  omelet  over 
on  the  lid  of  a  large  saucepan  covered  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  slide  it  back  at  once  to  the  rebuttered 
pan  and  set  it  once  more  in  the  oven  to  finish  cooking.  It  ought,  to  be  quite  mellow.  As  soon  as 
done,  slip  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper  again  and  fill  the  center  with  a  row  of  preserves;  fold  it  on  itself, 
then  invert  it  on  a  long  dish  with  the  assistance  of  the  sheet  of  paper;  shape  it  prettily,  tightening 
the  two  ends,  and  besprinkle  over  with  fine  sugar;  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123). 


(3066).  OMELET  SOUFFLE  WITH  VANILLA  (Omelette  Souffle'e  a  la  Vanille). 

Place  six  egg-yolks  in  a  bowl  with  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  an  ounce  of  vanilla 
sugar  (No.  3165);  beat  well  with  a  whip  until  it  becomes  as  light  as  for  biscuits;  also  beat  up  twelve 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them  in  slowly  with  the  others,  then  dress  a  part  of  this  preparation 
in  a  pyramid  form  on  a  lightly  buttered  dish,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center;  pour  the  remainder 
into  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  socket  and  decorate  the  surface  of  the  omelet  prettily;  sugar  it  over 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  serving  it  as  soon  as  it  is  done,  or  it  may  be 
dressed  on  a  long  dish  and  split  lengthways  through  the  center  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  so  as  to 
make  two  pieces  of  it,  then  cook  as  above. 

(3067).  OMELET  STUFFED  WITH  PEESEEVES— GLAZED  (Omelette  Fourre'e  aux  Confitures  et 

Glace"e). 

Prepare  a  sweet  omelet  with  seven  or  eight  eggs;  as  soon  as  it  becomes  firm  roll  it  over  on 
itself  in  the  pan  to  detach  it,  then  bring  it  forward  and  fill  it  with  currant  jelly  or  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675);  shape  it  nicely,  rolling  it  on  itself  lengthwise,  and  invert  it  quickly  on  a 
small  long  dish.  Give  it  a  pretty  appearance,  turning  the  ends  under,  and  dredge  over  with  pow- 
dered sugar;  glaze  the  surface  with  an  iron  heated  in  the  fire. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  893 

(3068),  OMELET  STUTFED  WITH  STEAWBEEEIES  (Omelette  Fourre"e  aux  Praises). 

Pick  about  forty  large,  ripe  and  very  fresh  strawberries;  select  twenty  of  the  finest  ones  and 

cut  them  in  four,  then  place  them  in  a  bowl  with  sugar,  a  piece  of  orange  peel  and  two  spoonfuls 

or  rum;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place.     Press  the  remainder  of  the  strawberries  through  a  fine  sieve 

ssid  put  the  pulp  into  a  bowl  to  sweeten  and  also  lay  on  ice.     Break  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  vessel, 


FIG.  577. 

mix  in  two  soup  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  two  soup  spoonfuls  of  good  cream,  a  few  small  bits  of  butter 
and  a  grain  of  salt;  beat  up  well.  Heat  some  fresh  butter  in  a  pan,  pour  in  the  beaten  eggs  and  stir 
with  a  fork  until  they  thicken;  when  the  omelet  detaches  from  the  pan  bring  it  forward  and  fill 
it  with  the  cut-up  strawberries  without  any  of  the  liquid  and  turn  it  over  with  one  stroke  on  a  long 
dish.  Give  it  a  pretty  shape,  besprinkle  with  powdered  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  glaze  with  a  red 
hot  iron  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  surround  with  the  puree,  into  which  should  be 
incorporated  the  liquid  from  the  quartered  strawberries. 

(3069).  OMELET  WITH  FKUITS,  MEEINGUED  (Omelette  aux  Fruits  Meringue'e). 
Prepare  an  omelet  with  ten  beaten  eggs,  a  grain  of  salt,  powdered  sugar,  butter  and  raw  cream, 
the  same  as  for  frangipane  omelet  (No.  3058).  With  this  preparation  and  some  clarified  butter 
cook  a  dozen  omelets  in  a  small  frying  pan  and  when  done  spread  them  at  once  on  a  baking  sheet; 
brush  the  surfaces  on  one  side  only  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  bestrew  with  a  fine  salpicon 
of  assorted  candied  fruits  and  roll  up  the  omelets,  cut  off  the  ends  and  divide  each  one  in  two; 
spread  them  over  with  more  marmalade  and  dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish;  scatter  over  more  of 
the  same  salpicon,  then  cover  the  entire  pyramid  with  meringue  prepared  as  for  snow  eggs  (No. 
3163);  smooth  this  neatly  and  decorate  it  through  a  cornet;  dredge  over  powdered  sugar  and  poach 
the  whole  in  a  slack  oven,  setting  the  dish  on  top  of  a  thick  baking  tin. 

(3070).  OMELET  WITH  PUEEE  OF  SPINACH-SWEET  (Omelette  Sucre'e  a  la  Pure*e  d'Epinards). 
Blanch  quickly  in  salt  water  in  a  copper  basin  a  few  handf  uls  of  new  spinach,  having  it 
very  clean,  tender  and  fresh — this  is  most  important.  When  well  drained  and  squeezed  chop  or 
pound  and  press  it  through  a  sieve.  Cook  some  butter  to  hazel-nut  (No.  567)  in  a  saucepan,  mix  in 
with  it  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  the  spinach  and  fry  until  the  moisture  is  thoroughly  evaporated, 
then  add  a  handful  of  powdered  lady  fingers,  a  little  sugar  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream. 
Cook  the  whole  from  four  to  five  minutes,  remove  and  put  in  a  bit  of  lemon  peel  and  a  piece  of 
butter.  Prepare  a  sweet  omelet  with  seven  or  eight  beaten  eggs,  and  as  soon  as  it  thickens  bring 
it  to  the  front  of  the  pan  and  fill  it  with  the  puree;  fold  over  and  invert  it  on  a  small,  long  dish; 
shape  it  prettily  with  the  two  ends  finished  in  a  point;  bestrew  with  powdered  sugar  and  glaze 
under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123)  or  with  an  iron  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  heated  red 
hot  in  the  fire. 

(3071).  OMELET  WITH  RUSSET  APPLES  (Omelette  aux  Pommes  de  Eeinette). 
Cut  three  russet  apples  into  quarters;  peel,  mince  coarsely  and  put  into  a  pan  with  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter;  heat  well  without  letting  them  dissolve.  Dilute  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  with  two  whole  eggs  and  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  raw  cream;  add  to  this  two  spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a  grain  of  salt;  pour  the  preparation  over  the  apples,  spreading  them  on  the 
entire  surface  of  the  pan,  then  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken  prick  it  with  a  fork  to  dry  the  top. 
Dredge  some  brown  sugar  over  the  omelet  and  laying  an  inverted  plate  over  hold  it  down  with 
the  right  hand  and  turn  the  pan  quickly  so  as  to  receive  the  omelet  on  the  plate.  Melt  more  butter 
in  the  pan  and  slipping  the  omelet  into  it,  heat  it  well,  rolling  the  pan  backward  and  forward  to 
glaze  the  sugar  without  allowing  the  omelet  to  adhere,  then  sprinkle  some  more  of  the  same  sugar 
over  the  top  and  turn  it  again  on  the  plate;  slip  it  on  a  dish  and  serve. 


894  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(3072).  PANCAKES  A  LA  DEJAZET  (Crepes  a  la  Dejazet). 

Work  nine  ounces  of  flour  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  in  a  saucepan  until  it  becomes  a  smooth 
paste,  then  add  to  it  at  once  four  and  a  half  ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  pinch 
of  salt.  Set  the  vessel  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon  until  it  becomes  thick  and  detaches  from 
the  sides,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  let  the  preparation  get  cold,  afterward  adding  to  it 
twelve  egg-yolks,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  a  finely  chopped  orange  peel  and  ten  egg-whites  beaten  to 
a  stiff  froth.  Heat  two  small  frying  pans,  the  bottom  of  each  measuring  five  inches  across;  wipe 
them  well  and  butter  over  lightly  with  a  brush;  then  pour  into  each  one  a  very  thin  layer  of  the 
preparation  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven,  turning  them  over  when  half  done.  Drain  them  on  to  a  cloth 
and  continue  until  three-quarters  of  the  preparation  is  used.  Soak  them  with  maraschino 
and  cover  with  a  layer  of  English  coffee  cream  (No.  41)  with  vanilla  added,  then  dress  them  one 
on  top  of  the  other,  finishing  with  a  pancake;  cover  the  whole  with  the  remainder  of  the  prepara- 
tion, pour  over  some  butter  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven,  placing  another  dish  underneath  the  one 
they  are  dressed  on;  bestrew  with  sugar  and  glaze  till  they  attain  a  fine  color.  Serve  an  apricot 
sauce  with  kirsch  (No.  3001)  separately. 

(3073).  PANCAKES  A  LA  ROSSINI—  MEKINGUED  (Pannequets  Meringue's  a  la  Kossini), 

Place  in  a  vessel  half  a  pound  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  lemon  peel  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water;  beat  with  a  whip  to  mix  well  and  dilute  the  prepara- 
tion with  five  gills  of  cream,  afterward  adding  three  ounces  of  melted  butter.  Heat  two  small 
pancake  pans,  wipe  them  nicely  and  brush  with  clarified  butter;  pour  into  each  one  two  spoonfuls 
of  the  preparation,  spreading  it  over  well  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire.  As  soon  as  the  pancake  begins 
to  dry  turn  it  over  quickly  and  a  few  seconds  later  invert  it  on  a  baking  sheet;  finish  cooking  all 
the  preparation  the  same  way.  Cover  each  pancake  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675) 
and  roll  them  up  on  themselves.  Spread  a  thick  layer  of  pastry  cream  (No.  46)  on  the  bottom  of 
a  dish,  dress  over  the  pancakes,  forming  them  into  a  pyramid  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  vanilla 
meringue  with  sugar  (No.  140);  decorate  the  summit  with  a  rosette  of  the  meringue  pushed  through 
a  channeled  socket  pocket  and  the  base  with  a  circle  of  hollows:  besprinkle  lightly  with  sugar  and 
push  into  a  very  slack  oven  to  color  the  meringue,  then  fill  the  hollows  with  currant  jelly  (No. 
3670)  and  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  A  Madeira  sabayon  sauce  (No.  3096)  is  to  be  served  apart. 


(3074).  GEKMAN  PANCAKES  (Crepes  a  1'Allemande). 

Put  in  a  bowl  six  ounces  of  flour,  eight  egg-yolks,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter;  stir  the  whole  to  obtain  a  smooth  preparation.  Dilute  this  with  a  gill 
and  three-quarters  of  double  cream,  and  add  five  beaten-up  egg-whites  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
whipped  cream.  Butter  lightly  with  clarified  butter  the  bottom  of  two  medium  pans;  heat  and 
pour  into  each  a  thin  layer  of  the  batter,  spreading  it  over  the  entire  surface,  and  push  them  into 
a  hot  oven;  when  half  done  turn  them  over  to  have  them  cooked  evenly  on  both  sides.  As  soon  as 
they  are  finished  drain  them  on  a  cloth,  bestrew  with  sugar  and  dress  on  a  dish. 

(3075).  PANCAKES  OF  PEACH  MARMALADE  MAGEDOINE  (Crepes  Marmelade  de  Peches 

Mace"doineX 

Have  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour  in  a  basin  with  one  ounce  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  whole 
eggs,  one  egg-yolk  and  the  finely  chopped  peel  of  a  quarter  of  an  orange;  add  to  the  whole  a 
gill  and  a  quarter  of  milk.  Stir  well  with  a  whip  and  pour  in  two  and  a  half  ounces  of  melted 
butter  and  with  this  preparation  make  some  pancakes,  six  inches  in  diameter;  from  them  cut  with 
a  pastry-cutter  rounds  in  the  center  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  and  around  with 
another  cutter  six  inches  in  diameter,  so  as  to  have  them  all  of  even  size.  Cover  with  a  layer 
of  peach  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  dress  on  a  dish,  superposing  one  on  the  other;  bestrew 
with  fine  sugar  and  glaze  under  a  salamander  (Fig.  123),  then  fill  the  center  with  a  macedoine 
of  fruits  cut  in  five-sixteenth  inch  squares,  having  them  mingled  with  peach  marmalade  and 
maraschino.  Place  around  a  garnishing  of  apples  cut  in  inch-diameter  balls  and  cooked  in 
syrup,  and  on  each  one  of  these  fasten  a  candied  cherry  with  a  piece  of  angelica.  Serve  an  apricot 
kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001)  apart. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  895 

(3076).  PANCAKE  STICKS,  KOYEATJX  (Pannequets  Batons,  Royeanx), 

Prepare  six  large  pancakes  as  for  pancakes  a  la  Eossini  (No.  3073);  cut  them  in  two  and  each  cf 
these  pieces  into  oblongs,  four  and  a  half  inches  long  by  three  inches  wide;  lay  on  the  center  of 
each  of  these  a  spoonful  of  almond  cream  (No.  40) ;  fold  them  laterally  in  three  so  as  to  enclose  the 
cream  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs;  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  plunge  into  very  hot  frying  fat  to 
have  them  a  fine  golden  color,  then  drain,  bestrew  with  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3115)  and  dress  in  a 
pyramid  on  a  napkin.  Serve  separately  an  orgeat  sauce  thickened  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  apricot 
marmalade.  See  Franklyn  pudding  (No.  3098). 

(3077).  PANCAKES  WITH  BROWN  SUGAR-LIGHT  (Crepes  LSgeres  a  la  Cassonade). 
Put  one  pound  of  flour  into  a  basin;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  break  in  the  eight  egg- 
yolks;  dilute  with  a  glassful  of  milk,  add  three  spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Work  in 
the  flour  slowly  so  as  to  have  a  smooth  and  light  paste,  then  add  to  it  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  milk  and  strained.  Let  the  paste  rise  for  two  hours  in  a  mild 
temperature,  afterward  mixing  in  with  it  five  well-beaten  egg-whites  and  one  pint  of  whipped 
cream,  then  leave  it  stand  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Put  some  clarified  butter  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan and  use  it  to  brush  over  the  bottom  of  a  small  frying-pan;  pour  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  the 
pancake  preparation,  spreading  it  all  over  the  pan,  and  cook  in  the  oven.  Before  turning  the  pan- 
cake over  cover  the  surface  with  the  clarified  butter;  when  done  slip  it  on  a  baking  tin,  sweeten 
both  sides  with  brown  sugar,  and  when  all  are  cooked  dress  and  serve  them  very  hot. 

(3078).  PANCAKES  WITH  ORANGE  FLOWER  WATER-LARGE  (Grandes  Crepes  a  1'Eau  de  Fleur 

d'Oranger). 

Sift  twelve  ounces  of  flour  into  a  basin;  add  to  it  a  grain  of  salt,  and  mix  in  six  to  eight  eggs, 
Dne  by  one,  beating  the  paste  each  time  for  three  or  four  minutes  so  as  to  have  it  smooth  and 
light;  put  in  two  spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  four  spoonfuls  of  good  olive  oil;  when  the  mix- 
ture is  finished  add  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream,  and  as  much  brandy;  the  paste  should 
be  flowing  without  being  liquid;  cover  the  basin  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  rest  for  a  couple  of  hours. 
Heat  two  omelet  pans,  butter  them  liberally  with  a  brush  dipped  in  clarified  butter,  and  cover  the 
bottom  with  a  rather  thick  layer  of  the  paste;  prick  it  with  the  prong  of  a  fork  to  have  the  liquid 
parts  fall  to  the  bottom.  As  soon  as  the  pancake  attains  consistency  rotate  the  pan  vigorously 
to  detach  it  from  the  pan,  and  toss  it  over  with  one  stroke;  butter  the  bottom  of  the  pan  and  the 
top  of  the  pancake  with  melted  butter  without  ceasing  to  toss  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire  so  that  it 
finishes  to  cook.  When  the  pancake  is  properly  done  slide  it  on  a  round  dish,  having  the  bottom 
bestrewn  with  brown  sugar,  and  dredge  more  of  the  same  over  the  top;  then  sprinkle  with  a  few 
drops  of  orange  flower  water,  and  on  this  slip  the  second  pancake;  sweeten  and  sprinkle  it  the 
same.  Send  the  dish  at  once  to  the  table  so  that  they  can  be  eaten  hot  while  the  other  two  are 
being  prepared. 

(3079).  PANCAKES  WITH  PRESERVES-LIGHT  (Pannequets  Lexers  aux  Confitures). 
Dilute  half  a  pound  of  flour  with  eight  egg-yolks,  one  pint  of  milk,  a  gill  of  cream,  and  four 
ounces  of  melted  clarified  butter;  add  lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring,  a  grain  of  salt,  three  grated  bitter 
almonds,  and  the  beaten  egg-whites.  Dip  a  brush  in  clarified  butter,  and  grease  over  some  small 
pancake  pans;  heat  and  pour  into  each  one  a  spoonful  of  the  preparation;  spread  it  thinly  over  the 
entire  surface  of  the  pan,  and  as  soon  as  the  paste  assumes  a  color  underneath  turn  over  on  the 
other  side.  When  done  slip  on  a  baking  sheet,  besprinkle  with  vanilla  or  lemon  sugar,  and  dress 
on  a  dish,  one  on  top  of  the  other;  serve  with  a  separate  plateful  of  preserves. 

(3080).  PEACHES  A  LA  COLBERT  (Peches  a  la  Colbert). 

Plunge  twelve  fine  peaches  into  boiling  water  for  a  few  seconds  in  order  to  skin  them  easily, 
then  split,  pare  and  take  out  the  kernels;  put  the  peaches  to  macerate  in  a  hot  twelve-degree  syrup 
flavored  with  maraschino.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  tender  drain  on  a  cloth,  wipe  and  stuff  each 
half  with  rice  and  cream  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  160)  and  finished  with  a  few  egg-yolks;  place 
two  half  peaches  together  to  resemble  whole  ones,  then  cover  them  with  a  light  coating  of  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675),  roll  in  pulverized  macaroons,  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  white  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  to  a  fine  golden  color.  Cut  some  slices  of  savarin  cake  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and 


896  THE    EPICUREAN, 

with  a  pastry  cutter  remove  some  rounds  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  slit  these  half  an  inch 
deep  with  another  pastry  cutter  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  inserting  a  small  kitchen  knife  on 
the  side  at  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  bottom  and  with  the  tip  cut  around  to  detach  the  center 
only.  Lay  the  prepared  crusts  on  a  baking  tin,  besprinkle  over  with  sugar  and  glaze  in  a  hot  oven. 
As  soon  as  this  is  accomplished  and  they  become  cold  fill  the  empty  centers  with  a  salpicon 
of  fruits  mingled  with  apricot  marmalade;  decorate  the  edges  of  each  crust  with  twelve  small 
sticks  of  angelica,  each  an  inch  long.  Lay  the  crusts  on  a  dish,  dress  the  peaches  on  top  and  heat 
in  the  oven  twenty  minutes  before  serving.  Have  a  separate  apricot  sauce,  adding  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  almond  milk  and  flavored  with  maraschino  (No.  3001.) 

(3081).  CONDE  PEACHES  (PSclies  Oond6). 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice;  drain  and  replace  it  in  the  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cream  and 
half  of  a  vanilla  stick;  push  the  pan  into  a  slack  oven  and  allow  it  to  cook  for  forty  minutes.  Re- 
move the  rice,  suppress  the  vanilla  and  put  in  six  egg-yolks,  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  three 
ounces  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt.  Butter  and  sugar  a  mold  one  inch  high  by  seven  inches  in 
diameter;  fill  it  to  the  top  with  rice  and  place  it  in  a  bain-marie  for  twenty  minutes.  Split  in  two 
twelve  fine  peaches,  remove  the  kernels,  blanch  and  peel  off  the  skins,  pare  nicely  and  lay  them  to 
macerate  in  a  hot  thirty-degree  vanilla  syrup;  one  hour  later  drain  the  peaches  on  a  cloth  and 
wipe  them  well.  Unmold  the  rice  on  a  dish  and  dress  the  peaches  over  dome-shaped,  cover  them 
with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  bestrew  with  shredded  pistachios  and  decorate  the  cavities 
between  the  peaches,  and  also  the  border  of  the  rice,  with  angelica  lozenges  and  split  candied  cher- 
ries; surround  the  base  with  small  pear-shaped  rice  croquettes.  Set  the  dressed  dish  in  the  oven 
for  twenty  minutes  to  heat  well,  and  serve  with  an  apricot  sauce  and  Madeira  wine  diluted  with 
vanilla  syrup.  (See  Humboldt  pudding,  No.  3100.) 

(3082).  MERINGUED  PEACHES  (Peches  Meringues). 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  milk,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  rice  with  apples  (No.  3115);  finish 
with  cream  and  butter.  Cut  six  peaches  in  four,  remove  the  kernels  and  plunge  them  into  boiling 
water  until  the  skins  peel  off,  then  drain  on  a  cloth  and  cut  them  up  into  small  quar- 
ters; besprinkle  over  with  sugar.  With  the  cooked  rice  form  with  a  spoon  any  style  of  border, 
leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center;  inside  of  this  dress  the  quartered  peaches  in  layers,  brushing  them 
over  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  alternating  with  thin  layers  of  the  rice;  the  whole  to 
be  covered  with  the  rice  and  this  with  a  layer  of  meringue  (No.  140);  smooth  the  surface,  deco- 
rate with  meringue,  dredge  with  fine  sugar  and  dry  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

(3083).  RICHELIEU  PEACHES  (Peches  a  la  Richelieu). 

Butter  some  half -inch  high  flawn  rings,  having  them  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  line 
with  fine  paste  (No.  135),  and  cut  it  off  even  with  the  edge,  then  raise  it  up  to  form  a  crest,  which 
must  be  pinched  all  around.  Leave  them  in  a  cool  place  for  fifteen  minutes;  egg  over  twice  and 
prick  the  bottoms  in  several  places;  line  the  inside  with  buttered  paper,  fill  up  with  dry  rice, 
then  cook  in  a  hot  oven  and  remove  as  soon  as  done;  empty  out  and  brush  over  the  exteriors  with 
egg-yolks  and  return  to  the  oven  for  an  instant  to  color  the  egg.  Dress  on  around  dish  and  line  the 
inside  with  peach  marmalade  (No.  3675),  then  fill  up  with  frangipane  cream  (No.  44)  into  which  has 
been  mixed  some  crushed  macaroons  moistened  with  maraschino.  Smooth  the  surfaces  well  and 
dress  on  top  of  each  a  well-drained  preserved  half  peach  the  same  size  as  the  small  flawns;  cover 
over  with  apricot  or  peach  marmalade  and  then  decorate  with  candied  cherries  and  fanciful  cuts 
of  angelica;  fill  the  centers  with  a  salpicon  of  pineapple,  plums  and  pears  cut  in  quarter-inch 
squares,  the  whole  to  be  mixed  with  apricot  marmalade.  Keep  them  warm  and  serve  separately 
a  peach  syrup  with  maraschino. 

(3084),  STEVENS  PEACHES  (Peches  a  la  Stevens), 

Infuse  a  vanilla  bean  for  one  hour  in  a  quart  of  boiling  milk;  take  it  out  and  return  the  mPk 
to  the  fire;  at  the  first  boil  drop  into  it  like  rain  half  a  pound  of  tapioca;  allow  it  to  boil  up  once 
or  twice,  then  finish  cooking  on  the  side  of  the  range  without  allowing  it  to  boil;  add  to  it  two 
ounces  of  sugar  and  four  eggs,  beating  them  in  one  by  one.  Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  1, 
Fig.  137),  cover  the  bottoms  with  a  ring  of  quince  paste  and  fill  the  center  of  this  ring  with  a 
round  of  greengage  cut  out  with  a  cutter,  then  fill  up  the  timbales  with  the  prepared  tapioca  and 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  897 

poach  in  a  bain-marie  for  thirty  minutes.  When  firm  unmold  and  dress  in  a  circle  on  a  round 
dish;  fill  the  center  of  this  circle  with  a  compote  of  peaches,  decorating  the  top  with  fruits.  Keduce 
the  syrup  used  for  competing  the  peaches  and  with  it  make  a  sauce,  adding  peach  marmalade  and 
maraschino. 

(3085),  PEAES  FEEEIEEE  (Poires  Ferriere). 

Peel  some  pears;  hollow  them  with  a  vegetable  spoon  and  cook  in  a  light  syrup;  drain 
on  a  sieve  and  stuff  them  with  powdered  macaroons  moistened  with  a  little  Curacoa;  cover  them 
with  a  coating  of  fine  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  bestrew  with  finely  chopped  pistachios. 
Butter  and  sugar  a  surtout  mold  and  fill  it  to  the  top  with  rice  and  cream  flavored  with  vanilla  (No. 
160)  and  finished  with  a  few  egg-yolks;  set  the  mold  in  a  sautoir  with  water  reaching  to  half  its 
height  and  put  this  into  a  slack  oven  to  get  firm;  then  unmold  on  a  dish.  Dress  on  the  edge  of  the 
rice  a  circle  of  greengages  alternated  with  small  apple-shaped  rice  croquettes  having  their  stalks 
made  of  pieces  of  angelica;  range  the  pears  mside  of  this  circle  dressed  in  a  pyramid,  and  a  moment 
before  serving  push  the  dish  in  the  oven  to  heat  well;  serve  separately  the  following  sauce:  Take 
very  ripe  pears;  peel  and  cut  in  quarters,  then  cook  them  to  a  compote  with  some  thirty-degree 
syrup;  when  the  fruit  is  well  cooked  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  to  obtain  a  pulp;  dilute  this  with 
the  syrup  in  which  they  were  boiled,  adding  also  a  few  spoonfuls  of  kirsch.  Sturtout  molds  are 
made  of  different  sizes  as  follows:  About  three  inches  in  diameter  by  half  an  inch  high,  or  six 
inches  in  diameter  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  high. 

(3086),  LOMBAEDE  PEAES— STUTFED  (Poires  Farcies  a  la  Lombarde). 
Peel  one  dozen  medium-sized  pears,  leave  on  a  part  of  the  stalk  and  cut  them  across  in  two  at 
two-thirds  of  their  height;  scoop  them  out  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91)  and  cook  in  a  light  syrup. 
As  soon  as  they  are  done  drain,  wipe  and  stuff  them  with  a  salpicon  of  fruits  mingled  with  pear 
marmalade  and  flavored  with  kirsch,  and  put  them  together  again  into  their  original  shape.  Dress 
a  layer  of  rice  and  cream  with  vanilla  (No.  160),  finished  with  a  few  egg-yolks,  on  the  bottom  of  a 
dish;  arrange  the  pears  in  a  circle  on  the  edges  of  this  and  fill  the  center  with  some  stewed  apples 
cut  into  balls  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  some  candied  cherries  washed  in  hot  water  and  pineapple  cut 
in  dice,  the  whole  to  be  diluted  with  a  little  vanilla  syrup.  Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  straw- 
berry pulp  diluted  with  as  much  syrup  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(3087),  PIE,  APPLE,  PEAOH  OE  EHUBAEB  (Tarte  aux  Pommes,  aux  Poches  ou  a  la  Ehubarbe). 

Prepare  a  tart  paste  (No.  149).  Cut  into  quarters  six  or  eight  very  ripe  apples  or  fine,  tender 
peaches;  range  them  in  layers  in  a  pie  dish,  besprinkle  with  sugar,  and  dress  them  in  a  dome 
form.  Wet  the  edges  of  the  dish  and  cover  it  with  a  band  of  the  paste,  half  an  inch  wide  by  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  wet  this  band  also  with  a  fine  brush,  and  cover  the  fruits  and  this 
band  with  a  rolled-out  flat  of  the  same  paste;  press  it  down  on  the  base  of  the  dome,  and  then 
on  the  band,  so  as  to  have  the  two  adhere.  Cut  the  paste  even  with  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and 
scallop  it  all  around  with  a  small  knife,  pressing  the  paste  heavily  with  the  left  thumb,  and  cutting 
it  at  short  intervals  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  to  raise  the  gash  slightly,  so  that  when  cooking  the 
paste  will  rise  in  relief.  Brush  over  the  top  with  water,  and  decorate  with  a  few  fanciful  cuts  of 
the  same  paste,  then  egg  the  surface  with  beaten  eggs.  Stand  the  pie  on  a  small  baking  tin  and 
push  it  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  forty-five  minutes,  then  bestrew  with  sugar,  and  leave  to 
glaze  in  a  hot  oven.  Instead  of  egging  the  pie  may  be  simply  moistened  with  water  and  lightly 
covered  with  powdered  sugar. 

Rhubarb  Pie. — Select  fine  tender  stalks  of  rhubarb.  Remove  the  leaves,  wash  and  peel  the  stalks, 
then  cut  them  up  transversely  in  pieces  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long;  arrange  these  in  layers  in 
a  pie  dish  intermingled  with  sugar,  and  cover  and  finish  the  same  as  the  above  apple  or  peach  pies. 

(3088),  PIE,  MAEEOW  FEANGIPANE  (Tourte  Frangipane  a  la  Moelle). 

Wet  an  eight-inch  diameter  tart  plate  and  cover  with  a  flat  made  of  the  parings  of  puff  paste 
(No.  146)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  moisten  the  edges  with  a  brush,  lay  all  around  a  band  of  puff 
paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  and  press  the  band  down  on  the 
flat  to  have  the  two  adhere,  and  fasten  the  two  ends  together.  Put  in  a  vessel  three  ounces  of  flour 
and  five  ounces  of  sugar;  dilute  with  four  eggs,  dropping  in  one  at  a  time,  to  have  the  whole  very 
smooth,  but  in  case  this  fails  then  strain  through  a  fine  wire  sieve;  increase  the  proportions  of  this 
preparation  with  one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  to  thicken  on  the 
fire:  when  this  is  accomplished  remove  and  add  two  ounces  of  melted  marrow.  Leave  cool,  and 


898  THE;  EPICUREAN. 

ttith  this  fill  the  pie  up  as  far  as  the  band;  over  these  place  devices  of  puff  paste,  egg  over  ar.d 
push  the  pie  into  a  hot  oven  to  cook  it.  When  done,  take  out,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  fine 
sugar,  and  return  to  the  oven  for  a  few  moments  longer,  in  order  to  have  this  glaze.  Thu;  pie  is 
to  be  served  hot,  as  soon  as  removed  from  the  oven. 

(3089).  MINCE  PIE  ("Mince  Pie"). 

Take  a  tin  pie  plate  and  line  it  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  on  the  edge  fasten  a  puff  paste 
(N"o.  146)  band  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide;  fill  the 
hollow  in  the  plate  with  mincemeat  (No.  117),  wet  the  edge  and  cover  over  with  a  puff  paste  flat  the 
same  diameter,  fastening  it  on  firmly  to  the  edges,  egg  the  surface  and  trace  on  top  some  fanciful 
designs  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife;  pinch  all  around  and  push  in  theoveri  to  bake  for  an  hour  to 
an  hour  and  a  quarter.  As  soon  as  done  remove  to  the  oven  door,  bestrew  with  tine  sugar  and  replace 
it  in  the  oven  for  a  few  moments  to  glaze. 

(3090).  PINEAPPLE,  CAROLINA  AND  WITH  KIOE  WITH  OEEAM  (Ananas  Caroline  et  Ananas 

au  Biz  a  la  Creme). 

Peel  a  pineapple  neatly;  remove  the  core  with  a  column  tube  and  split  it  lengthwise  in  two. 
Cut  one  of  these  halves  into  very  small  thin  bands,  each  one  being  an  inch  and  a  quarter  long  by 
half  an  inch  wide,  and  cut  the  other  half  into  even  slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  the 
sliced  pineapple  into  a  vessel  and  cover  it  with  a  cold  twenty-five  degree  syrup,  and  three  hours 
later  drain  off  this  syrup  to  add  to  it  a  little  sugar  melted  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  cook 
it  again  to  thirty-two  degrees.  Let  it  get  cold,  then  flavor  with  a  little  maraschino;  pour  it  once 
more  over  the  pineapple.  Two  hours  after  drain  the  small  bands  on  a  cloth  and  wipe  them  carefully. 
Butter  twelve  small  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137),  cover  the  bottoms  with  a  ring  cut  from  angelica 
and  place  a  candied  cherry  in  the  center;  decorate  the  sides  with  the  pineapple  bands  overlapping 
each  other,  and  fill  the  timbales  as  far  as  the  top  with  rice  and  cream  (No.  160),  flavored  with  vanilla 
and  finished  with  a  few  egg-yolks.  Keep  these  timbales  in  a  bain-marie  for  thirty-five  minutes. 
Place  the  even  slices  of  pineapple  to  drain,  wipe  dry  and  cover  with  a  light  layer  of  apricot  marma- 
lade (No.  3675)  flavored  with  kirsch.  Dress  the  mnnolded  timbales  in  the  center  of  a  round  dish 
and  range  the  pineapple  in  slices  around,  one  overlapping  the  other;  bestrew  with  finely  chopped 
pistachios  and  decorate  with  angelica  lozenges  and  candied  cherries.  Set  the  dish  in  the  oven  for 
a  few  moments  to  heat  the  whole  and  serve  with  the  syrup  used  to  steep  the  pineapple,  flavored 
with  maraschino  and  then  strained  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  into  a  sauce-boat. 

Pineapple  ivith  Rice  with  Cream. — Have  some  rice  with  cream  (No.  160)  flavored  with 
orange,  dress  it  in  the  center  of  a  dish  and  garnish  around  it  with  slices  of  pineapple  a  quarter  of 


FIG.  578. 

an  inch  thick,  four  inches  in  diameter  and  cut  in  four,  having  prepared  them  as  follows:  Place 
them  in  a  copper  basin  and  throw  over  them  a  thirty  degree  syrup  and  allow  to  infuse  for  an  hour; 
drain.  Pound  the  parings  and  mix  them  with  the  syrup  in  which  the  pineapples  were  infused; 
pass  through  a  sieve  and  serve  as  a  sauce. 

(3091).  POUPELIN  (Poupelin). 

Pour  one  pint  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  adding  a  pinch  of  salt,  an  ounce  of  sugar  and  two 
ounces  of  butter;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  at  the  first  boil  fill  up  the  liquid  with  as  much 
flour  as  it  can  possibly  absorb;  then  dry  it  on  the  fire,  proceeding  the  same  as  a  cream  cake  paste 
(No.  132).  Afterward  incorporate  six  whole  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  six  yolks,  working  the  paste 
thoroughly.  Pour  this  preparation  into  a  buttered  charlotte  mold;  cook  in  a  slack  oven, 
ind  when  done  unmold  and  allow  to  cool  on  a  grate;  empty  the  inside  only,  leaving  a  crust  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  fill  the  empty  interior  with  frangipane  cream  (No.  44),  alternat- 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  899 

ing  with  a  layer  of  salpicon  of  fruits.  Keturn  it  to  the  oven  for  half  an  hour  and  just  when  pre- 
pared to  serve  remove  and  turn  it  over  on  a  dish.  Serve  an  apricot  and  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001)  in 
a  sauce  tureen  at  the  same  time. 

(3092).  PUDDING  A  LA  BENVENUTO  (Feuding  a  la  Benvenuto). 

Cook  five  to  six  large  pancakes  and  cut  them  up  into  inch- wide  bands.  Butter  a  dome-shaped 
cylindrical  mold  and  line  it  with  these  bands,  one  overlapping  the  other.  Put  seven  ounces  of  flour 
in  a  saucepan  v/ith  one  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  thicken  it  on  the  fire  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste; 
remove  it  at  once  and  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  two 
ounces  of  grated  cocoanut  laid  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  and  slightly  roasted  in  the  oven, 
the  peel  of  one  lemon  and  eight  raw  egg-yolks;  return  it  to  the  fire,  stirring  continuously,  and  as 
soon  as  the  preparation  attains  consistency  incorporate  into  it  slowly  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
five  eggs.  With  this  fill  up  the  mold,  alternating  it  with  layers  of  pancake  parings,  first  covered 
with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668)  and  then  rolled  up.  Set  the  mold  into  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water 
reaching  to  half  its  height  and  place  it  on  the  range;  when  the  water  boils,  finish  cooking  in  a  slow 
oven  for  forty-five  minutes.  As  soon  as  this  is  accomplished  take  out  the  pudding,  let  it  stand  for 
five  minutes,  then  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  serve  at  once  with  a  sauce-boat  of  orange  syrup  thickened 
with  arrowroot  and  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(3093).  PUDDING  A  LA  BRADLEY  (Ponding  a  la  Bradley). 

Soak  one  pound  of  bread-crumbs  in  hot  milk;  extract  all  the  moisture  and  place  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan, pouring  over  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream.  Stir  briskly  with  a  spoon  and  add  twenty-four 
egg-yolks,  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  ten  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  at  a  time,  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of 
frangipane  (No.  44),  a  grain  of  salt,  a  grated  orange  peel,  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  Smyrna  raisins 
and  eight  ounces  of  candied  pineapple  cut  up  in  small  squares,  and  lastly  fifteen  well-beaten  egg- 
whites.  With  this  preparation  fill  three-quarters  full  some  buttered  and  floured  pudding  molds; 
place  them  in  a  deep  baking  pan  containing  boiling  water  and  poach  for  one  hour  in  the  bain-marie 
in  a  slack  oven.  Serve  with  a  Sabayon  with  California  wine  (No.  3096).  This  quantity  is  sufficient 
for  twenty  persons. 

(3094).  MELLOW  PUDDING,  APRICOT  SAUCE  (Ponding  Moellenx,  Sance  anx  Abricots.) 
Skin  half  a  pound  of  suet  and  pass  it  twice  through  the  machine  (Fig.  47);  pound  it  with  five 
ounces  of  beef  marrow  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve;  put  it  into  a  vessel  with  fourteen  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar  and  beat  up  for  ten  minutes  with  a  spoon,  then  add  two  whole  eggs  and  from  fifteen 
to  eighteen  yolks,  little  by  little,  five  ounces  of  white  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  hot  milk  and  well 
pressed,  pounded  and  diluted  with  a  little  raw  cream  and  then  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  lastly 
add  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  brandy,  salt,  grated  lemon  peel  and  one  pound  of  candied  fruits  cut 
in  quarter-inch  squares  and  ten  ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins.  Put  a  little  of  this  preparation  in  a  small 
timbale  mold  and  poach  it  in  a  bain-marie  to  judge  whether  its  consistency  be  correct.  Butter  some 
plain  or  cylindrical  molds,  flour  them  over  and  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation; 
place  these  molds  in  a  deep  baking  tin  with  hot  water  and  poach  for  one  hour  in  a  slack  oven.  Let 
stand  for  ten  minutes  and  then  unmold  on  a  dish  and  cover  with  apricot  and  rum  sauce  (No.  3001). 
This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  twenty  persons. 

(3095).  CABINET  PUDDING  A  LA  ROYALE  (Ponding  Cabinet  ^  la  Royale). 
Butter  a  square,  hinged  mold  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  Savarin  paste  (No.  148); 
jfeave  it  to  rise  in  a  mild  temperature  and  when  it  reaches  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  top 
close  the  cover  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  it  is  done  unmold  and  leave  set  till  the 
following  day.  Butter  and  sugar  a  cylindrical  timbale  mold.  Cut  up  the  stale  Savarin  cake  in 
quarter -inch  thick  slices  and  cover  one  side  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  cut  some  of  these 
into  inch-wide  bands  the  same  height  as  the  mold  and  fasten  them  on  their  uncovered  side  all 
around  the  inside  of  the  mold,  having  them  standing  upright  and  overlapping  each  other;  cut  the 
remainder  of  the  slices  into  dice  and  use  them  to  fill  up  the  mold  in  alternate  layers  with  candied 
fruits  also  cut  dice-shaped  and  macaroons.  Put  in  a  vessel  twelve  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  six 
ounces  of  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  orange  sugar;  beat  the  whole  together  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of 
milk  and  a  pint  of  cream;  pass  it  through  a  wire  sieve.  Pour  this  preparation  slowly  into  the  mold 
until  well  filled,  then  leave  it  to  soak  for  several  minutes;  lay  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  with  water 
reaching  to  half  its  height  and  cook  it  in  a  slack  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  take  it  from  the 
oven  and  let  stand  for  a  few  moments,  then  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  cover  over  with  apricot  mar- 
malade. Serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  Sabayon  with  Marsala  sauce  (No.  3096). 


900  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3096).  CABINET  PUDDING  WITH  SABAYON  (Pouding  Cabinet  au  Sabayon), 
Prepare  a  Genoese  cake  mixture  the  same  as  for  No.  3239;  pour  and  spread  it  on  a  baking 
sheet,  covered  with  buttered  paper,  in  a  layer  half  an  inch  thick,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven;  when 
done,  remove  and  invert  it  on  a  grate,  lift  off  the  paper  and  let  get  cold.  Wash  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  candied  fruits  in  hot  water,  such  as  pears,  apricots,  plums,  orange  peel  and  cherries;  cut 
them  up  into  quarter-inch  dice,  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel;  mix  with  a  few  crushed  macaroons,  and 
pour  a  few  spoonfuls  of  rum  over  the  whole.  Butter  and  sugar  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150), 
place  in  its  bottom  thin  slices  of  the  Genoese  cake,  overlapping  each  other,  and  scatter  on  top  a  part 
of  the  fruits  and  macaroons;  on  these  lay  more  slices  of  cake,  then  more  fruit,  proceeding  the  same 
as  before,  and  continue  the  operation  until  the  mold  is  full.  Break  ten  egg-yolks  into  a  vessel, 
beat  in  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  add  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon;  mix  with  a  whisk,  and  dilute 
this  preparation  with  a  quart  of  cream,  then  run  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Pour  it  over  the 
pudding,  filling  it  well,  and  let  it  soak  thoroughly  for  several  minutes,  then  place  it  in  a  bain-marie 
and  when  the  water  has  reached  boiling  point  push  it.  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  one  hour.  Un- 
mold  the  pudding  on  a  dish,  cover  it  with  Madeira  Sabayon  sauce,  and  serve  more  of  it  separately. 

For  the  Sabayon,  put  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  eight  egg-yolks  in  a  bain-marie,  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  whip  the  preparation  until  it  becomes  frothy,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  or  other 
wine,  and  continue  to  whip  until  the  sauce  is  very  light  and  begins  to  thicken,  then  remove  it  at 
once  from  the  bain-marie,  and  serve. 

(3097).  COUNTESS  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Comtesse). 

Prepare  a  small  biscuit  preparation  the  same  as  for  lady  fingers  (No.  3377);  spread  it  out  on 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  to  the  thickness  of  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch,  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven, 
being  careful  to  keep  it  soft.  As  soon  as  done  remove  from  the  oven,  take  off  the  paper  and  cut  the 
cake  into  four-inch  wide  bands  down  its  entire  length;  cover  each  one  of  these  bands  with  a  layer 
of  strawberry  marmalade  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  roll  them  up  into  cylindricals  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter;  wrap  them  at  once  in  paper  to  tighten  and  keep  firm,  and  let  them  rest  for  one 
hour,  then  cut  them  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Butter  a  dome-shaped  cylindrical  mold, 
and  with  the  rolled  slices  of  cake  cover  the  interior  sides,  then  fill  the  empty  hollow  with  a  Saxony 
souffle  pudding  preparation  (No.  3107);  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water  to  half  its  height 
and  let  come  to  a  boil,  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  push  it  into  a  slack  oven. 
After  forty  minutes  take  it  out  and  let  cool  off  for  a  few  moments,  then  unmold  on  a  dish,  and 
cover  with  hot  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Serve  a  sauceboat  of  Richelieu  and  liquor  sauce 
made  as  follows:  Heat  a  pint  of  thirty -degree  syrup,  and  remove  it  from  the  fire,  thicken  with  a 
little  arrowroot  dissolved  in  cold  water,  and  add  a  few  cherries  (demi-sucre)  and  shredded  pis- 
tachios; flavor  with  kirsch. 

(3098).  FEANKLYN  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Pranklyn). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  vessel,  beat  it  to  a  cream,  and  add  to  it  seven  egg-yolks,  one 
at  a  time.  When  the  preparation  has  become  frothy  put  with  it  gradually  six  ounces  of  peeled 
and  dried  almonds  that  have  been  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  six  ounces  of  sugar, 
six  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  and  eight  ounces  of  candied  fruits,  such  as  candied  cherries  cut  in  two, 
pineapple  and  orange  peel  cut  in  dice,  and  finally  six  well-beaten  egg-whites.  Pour  this  prepara- 
tion into  a  cylindrical  timbale  mold  (Fig.  150),  and  place  this  in  a  sautoir  with  water  to  half  its 
height;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  come  to  a  boil,  then  push  it  into  a  slack  oven.  At  the  expiration  of 
forty-five  minutes  remove  the  pudding  from  the  oven,  let  it  rest  for  a  few  moments,  then  unmold 
it  on  a  dish;  cover  it  with  orgeat  sauce,  and  serve  with  a  bowlful  of  the  same. 

The  orgeat  sauce  is  made  by  cooking  four  ounces  of  sugar  to  "  small  crack  "  (No.  171),  then 
adding  a  gill  of  almond  milk  (No.  4),  and  boiling  once.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  a  spoonful  of  fecula 
diluted  with  a  little  water  and  half  a  gill  of  rich  cream. 

(3099),  PUDDING  A  LA  DE  FEEESE  (Pouding  &  la  de  Preese). 

Chop  up  and  pass  through  a  sieve  five  ounces  of  beef  marrow;  place  it  in  a  vessel  and  beat  it 
up  to  a  cream  with  five  ounces  of  sugar,  adding  singly  eight  egg-yolks  and  three  whole  eggs,  and 
have  the  preparation  very  light.  Then  incorporate  one  pound  of  white  meat  taken  from  a  chicken, 
pounded  with  two  and  a  half  gills  of  cream,  six  ounces  of  well-reduced  apple  marmalade,  twelve 
ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins  thoroughly  washed  in  hot  water,  and  finally  six  stiffly  whipped  agg- 


SWEET    ENTREMETS. 


901 


whites.  Pour  this  preparation  into  a  dome-shaped  cylindrical  pudding  mold,  well  buttered  and 
sugared.  Stand  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  with  hot  water  to  reach  to  half  its  height  and  bring  to  a 
boil,  then  put  it  into  a  slack  oven.  Take  out  the  pudding  at  the  end  of  forty-five  minutes  and  let 
stand  five  or  six  minutes;  then  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  cover  withasabayon  sauce  (No.  3096),  well 
flavored  with  Madeira,  and  serve  more  of  this  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

(3100).  HUMBOLDT  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Hnmboldt). 

Cook  five  or  six  large  pancakes;  cover  them  on  one  side  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675)  and  cut  them  up  into  bands  each  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  and  through  their  entire  length. 
Butter  a  dome-shaped  cylindrical  mold  and  fasten  the  pancake  bands  on  their  uncovered  side  against 
the  sides  of  the  mold,  overlapping  each  other.  Cover  the  pancake  parings  with  apricot  marma- 
lade and  roll  them  into  small  rolls,  then  cut  them  in  half-inch  long  bits.  Beat  eight  ounces  of 
butter  to  a  cream,  add  to  it,  one  by  one,  four  whole  eggs  and  two  whites;  when  this  becomes  frothy, 
put  in  four  ounces  of  sugar,  then  four  ounces  of  flour  and  four  ounces  of  peeled  almonds  dried  and 
pounded  with  four  ounces  of  sugar,  afterward  passed  through  a  sieve.  Mix  the  whole  properly 
and  lastly  incorporate  into  it  three  well-beaten  egg-whites.  Pour  this  preparation  into  the  pan- 
cake-lined mold,  alternating  it  with  layers  of  the  small  rolls  previously  prepared;  when  the  mold  is 
full  set  it  in  a  bain-marie  and  allow  the  water  to  come  to  a  boil  on  the  fire,  then  cook  it  in  a  slack 
oven  for  forty-five  minutes.  As  soon  as  the  pudding  is  done  take  it  out  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few 
moments  before  unmolding  it  on  a  dish,  brush  it  over  with  hot  apricot  marmalade  and  serve  with 
a  sauce-boat  of  apricot  sauce.  Place  two  gills  of  apricot  marmalade  in  a  saucepan,  diluting  it  with 
two  gills  of  syrup;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  up  once,  then  strain  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  and  add 
two  gills  of  good  Madeira  wine. 

(3101).  ITALIAN  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  1'Italienne), 

Soften  in  boiling  water  half  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins  and  half  a  pound  of  candied  orange 
peel  cut  in  small  dice.  Place  them  in  a  vessel  with  half  a  pound  of  candied  cherries  washed  in  hot 
water  and  pouring  over  a  few  spoonfuls  of  rum  leave  them  to  marinate  for  one  hour.  Prepare  a 
small  quantity  of  Genoese  cake  preparation  (No.  3239)  finished  with  orange  and  spread  it  on  a 
sheet  of  paper  in  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  layer,  then  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  done 
turn  it  over  on  a  table,  remove  the  paper  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675;, 
then  cut  it  up  into  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  round  pieces.  Butter  and  sugar  a  cylindrical 
timbale  mold  (Fig.  150)  and  lay  in  the  bottom  a  circle  of  these  pieces,  overlapping  each  other;  scatter 
over  the  marinated  fruits  into  which  have  been  mingled  a  few  crushed  macaroons  and  on  top  dress 
another  circle  of  the  cake  the  same  as  the  first,  then  more  fruits  and  macaroons,  and  continue  thus 
until  the  mold  is  full.  Put  into  a  vessel  six  egg-yolks,  two  whole  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
having  a  part  of  it  flavored  with  orange;  beat  the  whole  well  to  mingle  properly  and  dilute  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  double  cream  and  half  a  gill  of  rum;  pass  this  through  a  wire  sieve  and  pour  it 

slowly  into  the  mold  until  full,  then  cook  the  pudding  in  a  bain-marie 
in  a  slack  oven,  and  just  when  ready  to  serve  unmold  on  a  dish  and 
pour  over  a  frothy  rum  sauce  (No.  3103),  serving  more  of  it  sepa- 
rately. 

(3102).  PEAOH  PUDDING  A  LA  CLEVELAND  (Ponding  de  Peches  a 

la  Cleveland). 
Cut  twenty  sound  peaches  in  four  pieces;   lay  them  in  a  vessel, 


FIG.  579.  FIG.  580. 

sprinkle  over  with  a  handful  of  powdered  sugar  and  let  macerate  for  half  an  hour,  tossing 
them  about  at  frequent  intervals.  Line  a  dome-shaped  mold  wider  than  its  height  with  a  very 
thin  suet  pudding  paste  (No.  2322);  fill  the  inside  with  the  quartered  peaches,  placing  them  in 


902 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


layers  and  bestrewing  brown  sugar  between  each  one.  Cover  the  fruits  with  a  round  flat 
of  the  paste  and  fasten  it  solidly  to  the  sides.  Close  the  mold  with  its  own  lid  and  wrap 
it  up  in  a  cloth,  theu  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  and  let  cook  for  an  hour  and  a  half, 
having  it  remain  at  a  boiling  degree  during  the  whole  time.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  re- 
move the  mold,  unwrap  and  invert  the  pudding  on  a  dish  and  cover  it  over  with  a  Madeira 
sauce  with  peaches,  serving  some  of  it  separately.  For  the  sauce  have  six  to  eight  very  ripe 
peaches;  remove  the  stones,  crush  the  fruit  and  adding  a  few  spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  two  gills  of 
water  let  cook  for  a  few  moments.  Strain  this  sauce  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  and  add  to  it  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  maraschino. 

(3103).  PLUM  PUDDING,  ST.  GEORGE  (Plum  Ponding  St.  George). 

Place  in  a  vessel  one  pound  of  beef  kidney  suet,  very  dry,  free  of  fibers  and  chopped  up  very 
finely;  one  pound  of  seeded  Malaga  raisins;  one  pound  of  currants,  cleaned  and  washed  in  plenty 

of  water;  one  pound  of  bread-crumbs,  sifted  through  a  sieve;  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  lemon  peel  chopped  up  very  fine; 
one  pound  of  powdered  sugar;  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  a  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon;  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  nut- 
meg and  allspice;  a  pint  of  brandy  and  six  eggs.  Mix  the  whole 
well  together.  Dip  a  strong  cloth,  in  cold  water  and  wring  it  out  to 
extract  all  its  moisture;  spread  it  open  on  a  table  and  butter  it 
liberally  with  butter  softened  to  the  consistency  of  cream;  dredge 


FIG.  581. 


FIG.  582. 


over  with  sifted  flour  and  shake  the  cloth  to  remove  the  excess  of  flour  that  has  failed  to  adhere 
to  the  butter.  Lay  in  the  center  of  this  cloth  the  above  prepared  mixture,  form  it  in  the 
shape  of  a  ball,  raise  up  the  edges  of  the  cloth  bringing  the  four  ends  together  and  all  around 
so  as  to  enclose  the  preparation  well,  then  tighten  and  tie  firmly.  Have  on  the  fire  a  high 
saucepan  filled  to  three-quarters  of  its  height  with  water;  when  this  boils  plunge  in  the  plum 
pudding  and  let  cook  for  three  hours,  then  remove  it  from  the  water.  Have  it  stand  for 
five  minutes  before  cutting  the  string;  undo  the  cloth  carefully  and  invert  the  pudding  on 
a  hot  dish;  besprinkle  it  with  sugar,  pour  over  some  brandy  or  rum  and  set  it  on  the  fire;  serve 
immediately.  Have  a  separate  sauce-boat  of  frothy  vanilla  and  rum  sauce  to  be  made  as  follows: 
Frothy  Vanilla  and  Rum  Sauce. — Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  beef  marrow,  melt  it  in  a  bain- 
marie,  then  strain  through  a  napkin  into  a  bowl  and  whip  it  until  it  begins  to  froth,  then  add  four 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  broken  in  small  parts,  four  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  lastly, 
half  a  gill  of  rum;  serve. 

(3104).  PLUMERY  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Plumery). 

Pound  four  ounces  of  raw  beef  marrow,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  place  it  in  a  vessel;  beat 
it  up  to  a  cream,  adding  five  egg-yolks  and  two  whole  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  When  this  prepara- 
tion becomes  creamy  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  powdered  almonds  passed  through  a  sieve,  two 
ounces  of  cracker  dust,  three  ounces  of  crushed  macaroons,  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in 
rum,  two  ounces  of  angelica  and  one  ounce  of  orange  peel,  both  washed  in  hot  water  and  cut  into 
quarter-inch  squares.  When  all  these  ingredients  have  been  properly  mixed  incorporate  slowly 
into  the  whole  four  egg-whites  beaten  to  a  very  stiff  froth;  pour  this  preparation  into  a  cylindrical 
buttered  and  sugared  mold  and  cook  it  in  a  bain-marie  in  a  very  slack  oven.  Just  when  pre- 
pared to  serve  unmold  the  pudding  on  a  dish,  cover  it  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and 
serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  apricot  sauce  prepared  with  almond  milk. 

Apricot  Sauce  with  Almond  Milk. — Have  two  gills  of  apricot  pulp,  four  ounces  of  sugar  and 
two  gills  of  water  placed  in  a  saucepan;  stand  it  on  the  fire  and  allow  to  cook  for  a  few  moments, 
then  strain  through  a  fine  strainer  and  add  one  gill  of  almond  milk  (No.  4);  return  it  to  the 
saucepan  and  heat  the  sauce  without  boiling;  just  when  prepared  to  serve  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
noyau  liqueur. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  903 

(3105).  KIOE  PUDDING  A  LA  BAGRATION  (Ponding  de  Riz  a  la  Bagration). 
Wash  half  a  pound  of  rice;  blanch  it  properly  in  plenty  of  water,  drain  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  quart  of  milk  and  half  a  stick  of  vanilla;  let  it  cook  for  forty  minutes  in  the 
oven,  then  withdraw  and  suppress  the  vanilla;  add  to  it  three  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  a  pinch  of  salt ,  six  yolks  and  one  whole  egg,  mixing  all  well  together.  Stir  in  six  ounces 
of  candied  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice,  such  as  pears,  greengages,  pineapples,  cherries,  and 
lastly  add  three  well-beaten  egg-whites.  Butter  and  sugar  a  dome-shaped  cylindrical  mold;  fill  it 
four-fifths  full  with  the  preparation  and  lay  it  in  a  saucepan  with  water  to  half  its  height;  place 
it  on  the  fire  until  the  water  boils,  then  in  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  fifty  minutes.  Remove  the 
pudding  from  the  fire,  let  it  stand  for  five  minutes,  then  unmold  on  a  dish  and  cover  with  English 
cream  vanilla  sauce  (No.  3004),  having  more  of  it  served  separately. 

(3106).  EIOE  PUDDING,  FRUIT  SAUCE  (Ponding  an  Riz,  Sauce  anx  Frnits). 
Wash  one  pound  of  rice;  blanch  and  cook  in  two  quarts  of  milk  and  cream,  half  of  each,  pro- 
ceeding the  same  as  for  rice  pudding  (No.  3105);  when  done  sweeten  with  six  ounces  of  sugar,  finish 
it  with  a  grated  orange  peel,  a  handful  of  chopped  almonds,  and  two  ounces  of  butter;  remove  it 
from  the  fire,  and  when  almost  cold  incorporate  fifteen  to  eighteen  egg-yolks,  one  by  one,  without 
ceasing  to  beat  up  the  preparation;  add  also  twenty  ounces  of  candied  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch 
squares,  and  lastly  twelve  to  fourteen  egg-whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  With  this  fill  five  but- 
tered and  floured  molds;  place  them  in  a  deep  baking-pan  with  hot  water,  and  poach  the  pud- 
dings for  nearly  one  hour  in  a  slack  oven.  At  the  last  moment  unmold  on  a  dish,  cover  them 
liberally  with  apricot  and  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001),  and  serve  separately  a  sauce-boatful  of  Bischoff 
sauce;  for  this  see  fried  cream  Pamela  (No.  3013). 

(3107).  SAXONY  PUDDINGKSOUFPLED  (Ponding  SoufflS  UaSaxonne). 

Sift  half  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  and  dissolve  it  with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  into 
which  has  been  infused  half  a  vanilla  bean;  mix  with  this  four  ounces  of  butter  and  four  ounces 
of  sugar;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  stir  the  mixture  with  a  spatula  until  it  detaches  from 
the  saucepan.  Then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  beat  in  four  ounces  of  butter  and  four  ounces  of 
vanilla  sugar;  continue  to  stir  until  it  attains  body,  and  let,  it  lose  its  greatest  heat,  then  add  at 
once  ten  egg-yolks,  four  ounces  of  candied  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice,  and  six  stiffly  beaten 
egg-whites;  pour  this  preparation  into  a  dome-shaped  mold  with  a  tube  in  the  center,  and  cook  it 
in  a  bain-marie  in  a  slack  oven  for  forty-five  minutes.  As  soon  as  done  unmold  the  pudding  on  a 
dish,  cover  it  over  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  serve  with  a  separate  apricot 
sauce  with  noyau  (No.  3100). 

(3108).  SCOTCH  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  1'Ecossaise), 

Soften  twelve  ounces  of  beef  marrow  at  the  oven  door,  without  letting  it  melt.  Pass 
it  through  a  strainer  and  lay  it  in  a  bowl  to  beat  to  a  cream,  adding  to  it  one  by  one  ten  egg-yolks, 
two  whole  eggs,  also  a  pinch  of  salt,  then  put  in  fourteen  ounces  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  milk, 
two  ounces  of  candied  cherries  cut  in  two,  four  ounces  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut  in 
small  three-sixteenth  inch  squares  and  half  a  gill  of  rum;  lastly  mix  in  ten  egg-whites,  beaten  to 
a  very  stiff  froth.  Transfer  this  preparation  into  a  buttered  and  sugared  dome-shaped  mold  with 
a  tube  in  its  center;  set  it  into  a  saucepan  with  water  reaching  to  half  its  height,  and  place  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire  for  the  water  to  come  to  a  boil,  then  finish  cooking  in  the  oven  for  forty 
minutes.  As  soon  as  the  pudding  is  done  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  cover  over  with  apricot  mar- 
malade (No.  3675)  diluted  with  a  little  Madeira  wine;  serve  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  sauce  or  punch 
made  as  follows:  Put  in  a  saucepan  a  gill  and  a  half  of  brandy,  a  gill  and  a  half  of  rum,  a  gill  of 
vanilla  syrup,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  of  an  orange  and  a  small  bit  of  cinnamon.  Just  when 
ready  to  serve  heat  without  boiling  and  then  set  it  on  the  fire  for  a  few  seconds  to  burn  out  the 
alcohol;  cover  the  saucepan  at  once  to  extinguish  the  fire,  and  serve. 

(3109).  SCHILLER  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Schiller). 

Prepare  twelve  to  fifteen  large  pancakes  and  with  some  of  them  line  a  liberally  buttered  cylin- 
drical mold  (Fig.  150).  Cover  half  of  the  remaining  pancakes  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade 
(No  3675),  and  the  other  half  with  frangipane  cream  (No.  43);  roll  these  pancakes  up  separately 
into  rolls  and  cut  them  into  three-quarter  inch  thick  slices;  range  these  in  alternate  layers  inside  the 


904  THE    EPICUREAN. 

mold  with  a  few  candied  cherries  washed  in  hot  water  interspersed  between.  Put  in  a  vessel  twelve 
yolks  and  two  whole  eggs,  also  six  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165);  beat  up  well  and  then  stir 
in  a  quart  of  milk.  Pass  it  through  a  fine  wire  strainer  into  the  mold.  Lay  the  mold  in  water 
reaching  to  half  its  height;  set  it  on  the  fire  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil  put  it  into  a  slack  oven 
to  cook  for  one  hour;  remove,  let  stand  and  unmoldon  a  dish;  brush  the  pudding  over  with  apricot 
marmalade  and  serve  with  a  sauce-boat  of  English  cream  and  vanilla  sauce  (No.  3004"). 

(3110).  SPANISH  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  1'Espagnole). 

Put  four  ounces  of  clarified  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  heat  it  well,  then  add  to  it  eight  ounces 
of  white  bread-crumbs  and  let  it  cook  until  it  becomes  a  fine  golden  color,  while  stirring  it 
from  time  to  time  with  a  spatula;  withdraw  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  dilute  the  preparation 
with  a  gill  of  milk  and  a  gill  of  cream  and  dry  it  for  a  few  moments  over  the  fire.  Add  to  it  the 
peel  of  one  lemon,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  rum,  three  ounces  of  sugar  and  six  egg- yolks; 
stir  well  and  lastly  mix  in  the  well-beaten  whites  of  six  eggs.  Butter  and  sugar  a  dome-shaped 
cylindrical  mold,  fill  it  up  with  the  preparation  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water 
to  half  its  height;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  to  have  the  liquid  come  to  a  boil,  then  withdraw  it 
at  once  and  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  so  that  the  pudding  can  cook  for  forty-five  minutes.  When 
this  is  accomplished  take  it  out  and  let  it  stand  from  five  to  six  minutes;  unmold  on  a  dish 
and  cover  with  an  English  cream  vanilla  sauce  (No.  3004)  with  rum  added;  serve  more  of  the  sauce 
apart. 

(3111),  TYBOLEAN  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Tyrolienne), 

Soften  five  ounces  of  beef  marrow,  run  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  vessel  and  beat  it  up  to  a 
cream,  adding  five  egg-yolks  and  five  whole  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  As  this  becomes  frothy  put  into  it 
six  ounces  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  six  ounces  of  grated  chocolate,  six  ounces  of  lady  finger 
crumbs  soaked  in  a  gill  and  three-quarters  of  double  cream,  three  ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins 
well  cleansed  and  washed  in  hot  water,  and  lastly  beat  in  six  very  stiff  egg-whites.  Butter  and 
sugar  a  dome-shaped  mold  with  a  cylindrical  center,  fill  it  with  the  preparation  and  place  it  in  a 
bain-marie  in  a  saucepan;  bring  the  water  to  a  boil,  then  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for  forty 
to  forty-five  minutes;  take  it  from  the  oven  and  let  stand  for  a  few  moments  before  unmolding 
on  a  dish ;  cover  over  with  chocolate  sauce  and  serve  more  of  the  same  separately. 

Chocolate  Sauce. — Dilute  two  ounces  of  chocolate  with  two  gills  of  water  and  a  gill  of  vanilla 
syrup;  let  boil,  then  strain  through  a  fine  strainer  and  add  one  gill  of  rich  cream. 

(3112),  PUDDING  WITH  ALMONDS-LIGHT  (Pouding  Leger  aux  Amandes). 
Dissolve  ten  ounces  of  fine  wheat  and  rice  flour  (half  of  each)  in  one  and  a  half  pints  of 
almond  milk  (No.  4).  Strain  this  liquid  into  a  saucepan  and  add  to  it  salt,  half  a  pound  of  sugar 
and  three  ounces  of  butter.  Cook  the  preparation,  avoid  all  lumps  and  do  not  cease  to  stir  until 
it  detaches  from  the  saucepan,  then  take  it  off  and  pour  it  into  a  vessel;  incorporate  with  it  slowly 
twelve  egg-yolks,  beating  them  in  vigorously,  and  then  add  five  ounces  more  butter,  four  ounces  of 


FIG.  5&3. 


finely  pounded  almonds,  the  peel  of  an  orange,  and  finally  nine  well-beaten  egg-whites.  Butter 
some  dome-shaped  pudding  molds,  having  them  wider  than  their  height,  cover  the  interior  sides 
with  small  flat  round  pieces  of  lady  fingers  cut  out  with  a  cutter  and  fill  the  hollow  space  three- 
quarters  full  with  the  preparation;  poach  the  puddings  for  fifty  minutes  in  a  bain-marie  with  the 
vessel  covered,  and  before  removing  push  them  into  a  slack  oven  to  dry  the  tops.  Take  them  out 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  905 

and  unmold  five  minutes  after  on  a  hot  dish;  cover  them  lightly  with  an  apricot  sauce  made  with 
rum  (No.  3001),  and  in  each  pudding  insert  a  small  hatelet  composed  of  three  graduated  rounds  of 
candied  pineapple.  Serve  separately  an  apricot  sauce  mingled  with  almond  milk,  the  same  as  for 
Plumery  pudding  (No.  3104).  This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  ten  persons. 

(3113).  PUDDING  WITH  BURNT  ALMONDS-SOUFFLED  (Feuding  Soufflg  aux  Pralines). 

Sift  six  ounces  of  rice  flour  in  a  saucepan;  dissolve  it  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  thicken 
the  preparation  over  the  fire,  stirring  vigorously  with  a  wooden  spoon;  when  it  detaches  from  the 
side  of  the  saucepan  Take  it  off  and  add  to  it  one  ounce  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  burnt  almonds 
ground  to  a  dust  and  passed  through  a  sieve,  a  pinch  of  salt,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  eight  egg-yolks, 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  whipped  cream,  and  finally  six  very  stiffly  whipped  egg-whites.  Butter  and 
sugar  a  dome-shaped  cylindrical  mold,  fill  it  up  in  layers,  alternating  the  preparation  with  slices  of 
Savoy  biscuit  or  lady  fingers  soaked  in  maraschino  and  quarters  of  candied  apricots  well  washed  in 
hot  water.  When  the  mold  is  full  set  it  in  a  bain-marie  and  let  the  water  come  to  a  boil,  then  finish 
cooking  for  forty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  As  soon  as  the  pudding  is  unmolded  on  a  dish  cover  it 
with  apricot  sauce  made  with  almond  milk  (No.  4)  and  maraschino,  serving  more  of  it  in  a  bowl. 
For  this  sauce  see  light  pudding  with  almond  milk  (No.  3104). 

(3114),  PUDDING  WITH  HAZEL-NUTS-SOUFFLED  Tending  SoufflS  aux  Noisettes). 
Dilute  in  a  saucepan  seven  or  eight  spoonfuls  of  rice  focula  with  four  to  six  gills  of  hazel-nut 
milk,  prepared  the  same  as  almond  milk  (No.  4);  add  to  it  a  grain  of  salt  and  a  piece  of  butter; 
thicken  the  preparation  over  the  fire,  stirring  it  about  with  a  spoon;  after  it  attains  the  consistency 
of  a  souffle  preparation  remove  and  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  then  ten  egg-yolks,  one  whole  egg,  two  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream 
and  four  egg-whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Butter  a  timbale  mold,  fill  it  with  the  preparation 
laid  in  alternate  layers  with  slices  of  biscuit  cut  very  thin,  cover  over  with  some  apricot  marmalade 
(No.  3675),  and  when  the  mold  is  full  set  it  in  a  saucepan  containing  hot  water  to  reach  to  half  its 
height,  then  poach  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  bain-marie.  At  the  last  moment  unmold  it 
on  a  dish  and  cover  with  English  cream  with  almonds  and  vanilla  (No.  42),  serving  more  of  the 
sauce  (No.  3004)  separately. 

(3115).  EIOE  WITH  APPLES  (Riz  anx  Pommes). 

Prepare  some  minced  apples,  the  same  as  for  an  apple  charlotte  (No.  3008),  not  having  them 
too  sweet.  Blanch  eight  ounces  of  picked  and  washed  rice,  drain  on  a  sieve,  refresh  and  put  it  in 
a  saucepan  with  some  milk;  cook  it  slowly  without  stirring,  keeping  it  slightly  consistent,  and  lastly 
mix  in  four  ounces  of  powdered  lemon  sugar,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  and  apiece  of  butter;  remove 
to  a  much  slower  fire  in  order  to  allow  the  liquid  to  became  entirely  absorbed,  then  take  up  the  rice 
with  a  spoon  and  place  it  in  layers  on  a  deep  dish,  alternating  each  one  with  a  layer  of  the  apples, 
giving  the  whole  a  dome  shape,  and  finishing  with  the  rice.  Dredge  the  top  with  cinnamon  or 
vanilla  sugar  and  serve  at  once. 

Sugar  Flavored  with  Vanilla. — Have  four  ounces  of  vanilla  beans,  split  them  in  two,  chop 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar  until  exceedingly  fine,  then 
pass  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Keep  in  a  hermetically  closed  box  in  a  dry  place  until  needed  for 
use. 

(3116).  RISSOLES  WITH  PRESERVES  AND  WITH  ALMOND  OREAM  (Rissoles  a  la  Oonfitnre  et 

a  la  Oreme  d'Amandes). 

Roll  out  into  a  square  layer,  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  one  pound  of  fine  short  paste 
(No.  135)  or  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  cut  the  edges  straight  and  range  on  the  top  at  desired 
distances  apart  small  balls  of  any  kind  of  thick  marmalade;  wet  the  paste  to  form  the  rissoles  (No. 
161),  and  when  they  are  cut  out  press  down  the  borders  of  the  paste  with  the  fingers  in  order  to 
diminish  its  thickness,  then  cut  the  rissoles  again  with  the  same  pastry  cutter,  so  as  to  have  them  all 
alike,  and  fasten  the  paste  together.  Dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  plunge  into 
hot  fat.  Cook  them  slowly,  drain  and  roll  in  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  then  dress  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

With  Almond  Cream. — Prepare  the  rissoles  the  same  as  for  the  above,  replacing  the  preserves 
by  small  balls  of  almond  cream  (No.  40)  placed  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  edges  and  at  the  same 
distance  from  one  another;  finish  them  exactly  the  same. 


906  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3117).  SAVARIN  WITH  APRICOTS  (Savarin  aux  Abricots). 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour  into  a  warm  vessel,  make  a  leaven  with  a  quarter  of  the  flour  and  half 
an  ounce  of  yeast  dissolved  in  tepid  water;  cover  it  over  with  a  part  of  the  flour  and  let  rise  in  a 
mild  heat.  When  it  has  risen  to  double  its  primitive  volume  remove  from  the  warm  place  and 
break  it  up  with  the  hand  to  make  the  sponge,  giving  the  paste  plenty  of  body.  Mix  into  it  gradu- 
ally eight  whole  eggs  and  six  separate  yolks,  and  working  in  the  flour  knead  it  vigorously  for  ten 
minutes,  then  add  slowly  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  a  grain  of  salt,  lemon 
peel  and  lastly  four  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream.  Take  up  the  paste  in  small  parts  with  the  hands  and 
fill  one  or  several  buttered  Savarin  molds  three-quarters  full;  let  rise  as  high  as  the  edges  in  a 
mild  temperature,  then  bake  the  cakes  in  a  moderate  oven.  As  soon  as  they  are  removed  moisten 
them  with  syrup  infused  with  lemon  or  orange  peel  and  any  desired  liqueur,  then  drain  on  a  dish, 
cover  with  Madeira  apricot  sauce,  filling  the  hollows  with  hot  stewed  apricots.  Serve  an  apricot 
sauce  with  Madeira  apart,  the  same  as  for  Humboldt  pudding  (No.  3100). 

(3118).  SOUFFLE'  OF  CHESTNUTS  WITH  VANILLA  (Souffle  ae  Marrons  a  la  Vamiie). 

Skin  half  a  pound  of  raw  chestnuts,  then  grate  them;  pound  three  ounces  of  almonds  with 
four  ounces  of  powdered  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165).  Beat  in  a  bowl  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
mixing  into  it  six  or  seven  egg-yolks,  and  when  the  preparation  is  frothy  add  the  chestnuts,  sugar 
and  almonds,  then  five  or  six  beaten  whites.  Pour  all  this  into  a  buttered  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182) 
and  cook  it  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven;  glaze  over  with  sugar  before  removing 
and  serve  without  delay. 

(3119).  SOUFFLE  OF  CHOCOLATE  (Souffle  au  Chocolat). 

Melt  in  a  saucepan  at  the  oven  door,  in  a  little  tepid  water,  four  ounces  of  grated  chocolate; 
remove  and  pour  it  into  a  bowl  to  smooth  nicely;  mix  into  it  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  vanilla  sugar 
(No.  3165),  beating  it  in  vigorously,  then  add  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  the  following  preparation: 
Place  in  a  tureen  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  arrowroot,  two  tablespoon fuls  of  sugar  and 
a  little  salt;  dilute  with  half  a  gill  of  milk;  strain  into  a  saucepan  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  a  little  vanilla;  stir  on  the  fire  until  it  boils  and  when  smooth  reduce  till  it  is 
consistent  and  detaches  from  the  pan;  take  out  the  vanilla  and  let  partly  cool.  Add  eight  raw 
egg-yolks,  two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  four  beaten  whites  and  three  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream. 
When  all  these  ingredients  are  well  incorporated  pour  the  preparation  into  one  or  two  souffle  pans 
(Fig.  182)  without  filling  them  too  high.  Set  the  pan  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  bake  the  souffles 
in  a  slack  oven  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes. 

(3120).  SOUFFLES  IN  CASES  WITH  VANILLA  OR  ORANGE-SMALL  (Petits  Souffles  en  Caisses 

a  la  Vanille  ou  a  1'Orange). 

Put  into  a  vessel  four  spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  fecula,  four  spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a 
grain  of  salt;  dilute  with  two  and  a  half  gills  of  milk,  then  strain  it  into  a  saucepan,  adding  a  lump 

of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  and  a  piece  of  vanilla;  stir  on  a 
slow  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil  and  when  smooth  reduce 
until  it  detaches  easily  from  the  saucepan,  then  take  out 
the  vanilla  and  let  the  preparation  get  almost  cold  before 
stirring  in  another  piece  of  butter  and  five  to  six  egg- 
FlG-  584-  FlG-  585-  yolks  one  after  the  other,  while  continuing  to  beat  briskly; 

lastly  add  the  beaten  whites  and  three  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  With  this  mixture  fill  some 
souffle  cases  (Fig.  584)  two-thirds  full,  range  them  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  place  in  a  slack 
oven  to  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  just  as  quickly  as  they  leave  the  oven. 

With  Orange. — Instead  of  vanilla,  flavor  the  souffles  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  sugar 
(No.  3165). 

(3121),  SOUFFLE  OF  RICE  WITH  MARASCHINO  (Souffle  de  Riz  au  Marasquin). 
Boil  six  ounces  of  rice  in  plenty  of  water;  drain  and  set  it  in  a  vessel  and  pour  a  little  maraschino 
over.  Prepare  a  vanilla  souffle  preparation  (No.  3120)  and  after  the  egg-whites  have  been  mixed  in, 
dress  it  in  layers  in  a  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182),  alternating  each  one  with  a  small  part  of  the  well-drained 
rice.  When  the  souffle  pan  is  three-quarters  full  place  it  on  a  baking  sheet  and  push  it  into  a  well 
heated  oven;  three  minutes  later  remove  to  split  the  shape  of  a  cross  on  top  and  return  it  to  the 
oven  to  let  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes  more,  glazing  it  over  with  fresh  butter.  Serve  as  soon  as 
it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  as  souffles  should  never  be  left  waiting  to  be  served. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  907 

(3122).  SOUFFLE  WITH  RASPBERRIES  (SoufflS  aux  Framboises). 

Place  seven  ounces  of  rather  stiff  raspberry  jelly  in  a  small  basin  and  mix  slowly  in  with  it 
seven  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  so  as  to  obtain  a  consistent  preparation,  then  incorporate  one 
after  the  other  four  to  five  unbeaten  egg-whites,  stirring  up  the  whole  vigorously  with  a  whisk  for 
twenty  minutes.  When  this  is  frothy  and  firm  color  it  with  a  few  drops  of  vegetable  carmine  (No. 
37)  and  pour  it  into  a  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182)  to  cook  for  forty  minutes  in  a  very  slack  oven.  Five 
minutes  before  removing  the  souffle  from  the  oven  glaze  it  with  sugar,  set  it  on  a  hot  dish  and 
cover  with  a  large  hot  dish  cover;  serve  it  immediately. 

(3123).  TIMBALE  A  LA  FIGARO  (Timbale  a  la  Figaro), 

Cut  one  pound  of  short  paste  (No.  135)  into  four  pieces;  roll  them  on  the  table  into  long  quarter- 
inch  thick  strings  and  dip  these  strings  as  fast  as  they  are  done  in  melted  clarified  butter;  arrange  them 
in  a  spiral  around  the  inside  of  a  timbale  mold,  being  careful  to  fasten  the  ends  securely  with  beaten 
eggs.  Leave  the  timbale  rest  for  half  an  hour  in  a  cool  place,  then  fill  it  up  in  alternate  layers  of 
apples  cut  in  quarters,  cooked  in  butter,  and  masked  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  fran- 
gipane  (No.  44)  with  almonds.  Cover  over  with  a  flat  of  short  paste,  egg  the  surface,  and  set  it  in 
the  oven  to  cook  for  forty-five  minutes.  One  moment  before  serving  turn  the  timbale  out  on  a 
dish,  cover  it  with  hot  apricot  marmalade,  and  strew  over  finely  chopped  pistachios  and  almonds, 
then  decorate  the  top  with  rosette  of  angelica  lozenges,  having  a  greengage  in  the  center;  surround 
the  base  of  the  dome  with  brandied  geeengages.  Heat  the  whole  for  ten  minutes  in  the  oven, 
and  serve  with  an  apricot  kirsch  sauce  (No.  3001). 

(3124),  ZEPHYE  OF  RICE  WITH  PINEAPPLE  (Zephyr  de  Eiz  a  1'Ananas), 
Cook  half  a  pound  of  blanched  rice  in  milk;  when  sweetened  withdraw  it  to  a  slower  fire  to  let 
attain  more  consistency,  and  then  finish  with  a  large  piece  of  fresh  butter  divided  in  pats.  Ten 
minutes  later  incorporate  into  it  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  crushed  chestnuts  and  six  egg-yolks,  one 
after  the  other,  and  lastly  the  half  of  five  beaten  whites  mixed  with  three  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream.  Add  to  this  preparation  five  to  six  spoonfuls  of  candied  pineapple  cut  in  small  dice,  and 
pour  the  whole  into  a  timbale  mold  previously  buttered  and  glazed  with  fine  sugar  and  fecula. 
Lay  the  mold  in  a  saucepan  on  a  small  trivet  with  hot  water  reaching  to  a  third  of  its  height,  and 
boil  the  liquid;  remove  it  to  a  much  lower  fire  or  else  to  a  slack  oven,  and  cook  the  zephyr  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Finally  unmold  it  on  a  dish  and  surround  with  small  slices  of  preserved  pine- 
apple; cover  these  with  vanilla  syrup,  and  serve  a  sauce-boat  -of  pineapple  sauce  as  for  Roman 
triumvirate  fritters  (No.  3050). 


SWEET  ENTKEMETS-COLD  (Entremets  de  Douceur-Froids), 


(3125).  GLAZED  APPLES  (Pommes  Glares), 

Choose  a  few  small,  even-sized  apples;  empty  the  centers  with  a  column  tube  five-eighths 
of  an  inch  in  diameter,  peel  and  cook  them  in  slightly  sweetened  acidulated  water.  In  order  to 
have  them  remain  whole  it  is  advisable  to  cook  scarcely  boiling,  and  to  keep  them  covered. 


FIG.  586. 

Drain  and  place  them  in  a  vessel,  pouring  a  little  syrup  over;  leave  to  cool.  "When  cold  drain  and 
cover  them  several  times  with  a  brush  dipped  in  lukewarm  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  so  that  it 
adheres  to  the  apples,  and  cover  them  completely;  decorate  around  the  tops  with  a  circle  of  small 
dots  of  angelica.  Fill  the  hole  in  the  center  with  candied  cherries  or  fruit  jelly,  such  as  quince, 
currant  or  apple,  or  use  all  mingled  together;  arrange  the  apples  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish. 


908  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3126).  GLAZED  MARMALADE  OP  APPLES  (Marmelade  dePommes  Glacee), 
Cut  a  few  good  russet  apples  in  four,  peel  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water; 
dissolve  on  a  slow  fire  while  covered,  then  pass  through  a  sieve;  return  the  puree  to  the  saucepan 
with  two-thirds  as  much  powdered  sugar  and  a  tied  bunch  of  lemon  peel.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the 
fire  and  let  the  marmalade  reduce  while  stirring  unceasingly  with  a  spoon.  When  perfect  remove 
the  lemon  peel,  and  after  it  is  nearly  cold  pour  it  into  a  dish,  smooth  it  dome-shaped  with  a  knife 
and  sprinkle  fine  sugar  over  the  top;  glaze  this  with  a  skewer  heated  in  the  fire,  cool  off  and 
surround  the  base  with  triangles  of  biscuit,  placing  a  flat  rosette  of  the  same  on  the  summit  of  the 
apples. 

(3127),  F.KOTHY  PUREE  OF  APPLES  (PurSe  de  Pommes  Mousseuse). 

Peel  six  fine  apples,  cut  them  up  small  and  cook  in  a  covered  saucepan,  keeping  them  very 
white  and  adding  four  spoonfuls  of  water,  a  bit  of  lemon  peel  and  two  cloves.  When  melted  press 
them  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  add  seven  or  eight  dissolved  gelatine  leaves,  the  juice  of  four  or  five 
lemons  and  eight  or  ten  ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  beat  the  preparation  well  on  ice  with  a  whip 
until  it  whitens  and  becomes  quite  frothy,  then  add  a  salpicon  of  candied  fruits,  and  pour  this  into 
a  mold  incrusted  in  chopped  ice.  One  hour  later  dip  the  mold  in  hot  water,  unmold  the  contents 
on  a  cold  dish  and  pour  over  a  cold  apple  syrup  flavored  with  lemon  peel. 

Apple  Syrup. — This  syrup  is  made  with  the  liquid  in  which  apples  have  been  cooked  and  half 
its  weight  of  sugar  added;  flavor  with  lemon  or  orange  peel,  boil  until  it  attains  the  consistency 
of  light  jelly,  then  strain  and  cool.  It  is  now  ready  to  be  used. 

(3128),  BUCKET  OF  WAFFLES  WITH  CREAM  (Baquet  de  Gaufres  &  la  Oreme). 
Prepare  a  waffle  preparation  the  same  as  for  the  timbale  of  wafers  (No.  3222);  spread  it  in  a 
layer  on  a  waxed  baking  sheet,  having  it  about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  ^nd  bake  it 
partly,  then  remove  from  the  oven  and  cut  from  it  twenty-five  uprights,  each  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  wide  and  four  inches  long,  and  two  others  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  by  five  and  a  quarter  inches 
long;  bore  a  hole  with  a  thin  tube  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  through  these  two,  and  also 
cut  a  round  bottom  piece  six  inches  in  diameter.  As  soon  as  all  these  are  cut  return  the 
sheet  to  the  oven  to  finish  baking  the  waffles;  when  of  a  fine  color  remove  and  leave  to  get 
thoroughly  cold  on  a  marble.  Have  a  timbale  mold  six  inches  in  diameter;  lay  the  round  piece  on 
the  bottom  and  arrange  the  high  pieces  against  the  sides,  having  the  two  longest  and  bored  ones 
exactly  opposite  to  each  other,  fastening  them  all  on  with  cooked  sugar.  When  cold  unmold  the 
bucket  and  encircle  it  with  two  bands  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  in  imitation  of  hoops,  having  one 
slightly  above  the  bottom  and  the  other  a  short  distance  from  the  top;  slip  the  bucket  on  a  dish  and 
when  ready  to  serve  fill  it  full  of  whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla. 

(3129).  BASKET  OF  NOUGAT  WITH  CREAM  (Oorbeille  en  Nougat  &  la  Oreme), 

To  prepare  this  dessert  it  requires  a  basket  mold  that  opens  in  two  or  three  parts;  oil  it  over 

with  a  brush.     Peel  half  a  pound  of  almonds,  wipe  dry  and  mince  them  crossways;  dry  in  a  slack 

heater  for  twenty-four  hours.     Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  copper  pan  with  the  juice  of 

two  lemons;  stand  it  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  melted  and  of  a  nice  yellow  tint, 


FIG.  587. 

then  mix  in  the  very  hot  almonds;  take  from  the  fire  when  the  almonds  and  sugar  form  one 
mass.  Put  a  part  of  this  on  an  oiled  baking  sheet,  roll  it  out  thin  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and 
then  apply  it  to  the  inside  surfaces  of  the  basket  mold;  close  and  clip  off  all  the  nougat  extending 
beyond  the  edges,  and  when  very  cold  unmold  and  trim  it  with  the  nougat  rings  to  serve  as 
handles.  Fill  it  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla,  having  fresh  strawberries  mingled  in; 
stick  here  and  there  small  pieces  of  angelica  and  dress  the  basket  on  a  folded  napkin. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  909 

(3130).  BASKETS  OF  ORANGES  WITH  JELLY  (Paniers  d'Oranges  a  la  Gelee). 
Select  twelve  even-sized  oranges,  cut  them  into  basket  shapes,  leaving  a  handle  on  the  center; 
empty  them  with  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig.  91)  and  around  them  make  a  small  border,  scoring  the  peel 
with  a  knife  or  small  punch  made  for  this  purpose  (see  Andalusian  Sherbet,  No.  2321);  plunge  these 
into  boiling  water  for  a  minute;  remove  at  once  and  throw  them  into  cold  water  to  refresh,  then 
suppress  all  the  inside  white  skin  so  that  the  jelly  cannot  acquire  any  of  its  bitterness.  Stand  them 
upright  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  chopped  ice  and  as  soon  as  cold  fill  them  with  orange  jelly 
(No.  3180),  but  slightly  thickened  and  colored  with  a  little  carmine;  put  the  sheet  and  its  contents 
into  the  ice-box  so  that  the  jelly  stiffens  thoroughly.  Dress  on  a  folded  napkin  or  on  a  stand  and 
trim  the  handles  with  variegated  ribbons. 

(3131).  CHOCOLATE  BAVAEOIS  (Bavarois  au  Chocolat). 

Make  an  English  cream  with  a  pint  of  milk,  four  egg-yolks,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  half  a 
vanilla  bean,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  No.  3135;  as  soon  as  finished  pour  it  slowly  over  two 
ounces  of  chocolate  dissolved  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water,  then  add  one  ounce  of  gelatine  melted  in 
a  little  water.  As  soon  as  the  chocolate  and  gelatine  are  both  well  dissolved  strain  the  whole 
through  a  fine  strainer  into  a  tin  basin  and  set  it  on  the  ice,  stirring  constantly  until  cold,  and 
when  it  begins  to  thicken  take  it  off  and  incorporate  three  pints  of  whipped  cream,  having  it  firm 
and  well  drained.  Fill  a  jelly  mold  incrusted  on  ice  with  this  preparation;  let  the  bavarois  harden 
for  two  hours,  and  when  serving  dip  the  mold  quickly  into  hot  water  and  invert  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3132).  BAVAROIS  IN  SURPRISE  (Bavarois  en  Surprise). 

Coat  a  jelly  mold  incrusted  in  pounded  ice  with  maraschino  jelly  (No.  3186),  and  decorate  the 
bottom  arid  sides  with  white  split  almonds,  then  coat  the  mold  once  more  with  a  thick  layer  of 
chocolate  bavarois  preparation  (No.  3131);  as  soon  as  this  is  set  fill  the  hollow  center  with  a 
vanilla  bavarois,  into  which  has  been  mixed  a  few  spoonfuls  of  freshly  peeled  and  cut  up  pistachios. 
Lay  a  round  of  paper  over  and  cover  with  a  deep  lid  filled  with  chopped  ice;  leave  the  bavarois  to 
get  thoroughly  cold  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  dip  it  speedily  into  hot 
water  and  turn  it  over  on  a  cold  dish.  Surround  the  base  with  small  Genoese  cakes  (No.  3307)  iced 
with  strawberry  fondant  (No.  3652)  flavored  with  kirsch,  and  decorate  with  a  rosette  of  halved 
pistachios. 

(3133).  BAVAROIS  WITH  MERINGUES  (Bavarois  aux  Meringues). 

Prepare  a  vanilla  bavarois,  the  same  as  for  No.  3135;  pour  it  into  a  dozen  oval  ballotine  molds 
and  set  them  in  the  ice-box  to  have  their  contents  get  quite  hard.  When  ready  to  serve  unmold 
the  bavarois,  and  range  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  keeping  them  a  slight  distance  apart.  On 
either  side  of  each  one  place  two  small  meringue  shells  (No.  116)  well  scooped  out  and  very  dry. 

(3134).  RASPBERRY  BAVAROIS  (Bavarois  aux  Pramboises). 

Put  into  a  bowl  one  pint  of  raspberry  pulp  strained  through  a  tammy,  dilute  it  with  three 
or  four  gills  of  cold,  thick  syrup  flavored  with  lemon  and  an  equal  quantity  of  clarified 
isinglass.  Add  to  this  preparation  the  strained  juice  of  two  oranges.  Put  a  small  part 
on  ice  to  judge  of  its  solidity  (it  must  be  rather  thick  than  otherwise),  and  when  perfect  pour  it  into 
a  small  untinned  copper  pan,  and  thicken  it  on  ice  while  stirring.  As  soon  as  it  has  acquired  the 
consistency  of  a  thick,  smooth  sauce,  take  it  off  and  add  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  firm  and  well- 
drained  whipped  cream.  Use  this  preparation  to  fill  either  a  jelly  mold  (Fig.  149)  or  a  plain  cylin- 
drical mold  incrusted  in  chopped  ice;  cover  with  a  piece  of  paper  and  lay  on  a  deep  cover,  filling  it 
with  more  chopped  ice,  then  leave  to  harden  for  one  hour.  Unmold  on  a  cold  dish  after  dipping  the 
mold  in  hot  water.  Various  bavaroises  of  different  fruit  pulps  can  be  prepared  the  same  way,  such 
as  pineapple,  mandarins,  currants,  almonds  and  fresh  nuts.  The  mold  may  be  coated  on  the 
inside  with  a  light  layer  of  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  thus  avoiding  the  necessity  of  dipping  it  in  hot 
water. 

(3135).  VANILLA  BAVAROIS  (Bavarois  a  la  Vanille). 

Boil  one  pint  of  milk  with  half  a  split  vanilla  bean.  Whip  four  egg-yolks  well  in  a  basin  with  six 
ounces  of  sugar,  dilute  them  with  the  boiling  milk,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  to  stir  over 
a  moderate  fire  without  letting  it  boil.  Remove  the  cream  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  thickens, 
take  out  the  vanilla,  and  add  two  gelatine  leaves  (one  ounce)  previously  softened  in  cold  water. 


910  THE    EPICUREAN. 

When  this  is  melted  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  into  a  tin  basin  and  leave  to  cool  on 
ice.  As  it  begins  to  thicken  mix  in  about  three  pints  of  cream,  whipped  and  drained.  Fill 
a  jelly  mold  (Fig.  149)  incrusted  on  ice  with  this,  put  on  it  a  round  of  paper,  and  then  let  the 
bavarois  harden  for  two  hours.  At  the  last  moment  dip  the  mold  in  hot  water,  and  invert  it  on 
a  cold  dish. 

(3136).  BAVAKOIS  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Bavarois  aux  Marrons). 

Suppress  the  shells  from  one  pound  of  good,  fresh  chestnuts;  put  them  with  some  water  into 
a  saucepan  and  let  cook  on  a  slow  fire  for  two  hours,  being  careful  to  replace  the  black  liquid  by 
clean  boiling  water.  After  the  chestnuts  are  tender,  drain,  skin  and  pound  them  HI  a  mortar  with 
half  a  pint  of  syrup  at  twenty-five  degrees,  to  reduce  them  to  a  fine  paste,  and  press  this  paste 
through  a  sieve  into  a  tin  basin.  Put  four  egg-yolks  into  a  bowl  and  beat  them  up  with  four 
ounces  of  sugar;  dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  into  which  has  been  added  half  a  vanilla  bean; 
pour  this  into  a  saucepan  and  place  it  on  the  fire,  beating  it  with  a  whip  until  it  begins  to  thicken; 
then  remove  at  once  and  add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  gelatine,  softened  in  cold  water;  when  this  is 
dissolved,  pass  the  preparation  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  and  add  it  to  the  chestnuts  in  the  basin, 
putting  it  on  pounded  ice  and  beating  well  till  cold.  As  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken  incorporate 
into  it  a  quart  and  a  half  of  firmly  whipped  and  drained  cream;  then  pour  it  into  a  channeled 
cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  148)  incrusted  in  ice.  Let  it  harden  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Just  when 
serving  dip  the  mold  quickly  into  hot  water  and  invert  the  cream  on  a  cold  dish,  surrounding 
the  base  with  fine  glazed  chestnuts. 

(3137).  CREAM  BISCUIT-SMALL  (Petits  Biscuits  a  la  Oreme). 

Take  some  oval-shaped  lady  fingers  and  as  many  more  shaped  round  like  a  bouchee;  cover  the 
edges  with  a  thin  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  soak  the  oval  ones  lightly  with  maraschino 
and  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  the  outer  edge  of  a  deep  dish;  in  the  center  of  this  place  the  round 
biscuits  in  intermingled  layers  after  they  have  also  been  soaked  in  maraschino,  and  cover  each  one 
of  these  with  a  rather  consistent  English  cream  (No.  42)  prepared  with  lemon  peel  and  beaten  for 
seven  or  eight  minutes  on  ice,  then  mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream. 

(3138).  BLANC-MANGE  A  LA  SMOLENSKA  (Blanc-Manger  a  la  Smolenska). 

Soften  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  cold  water  and  dissolve  it  in  a  gill  of  orange  syrup;  add  to  it  a 
pint  of  filbert  milk,  made  like  almond  milk  (No.  4),  substituting  filberts  for  almonds,  and  strain 
into  a  tin  basin.  Let  this  preparation  become  cold  on  ice,  and  just  as  it  begins  to  thicken  incor- 
porate about  three  pints  of  well-whipped  cream.  Pour  this  into  a  dome-shaped  mold,  cover  with 
a  sheet  of  paper,  close  hermetically  with  a  lid,  and  chill  in  lightly  salted  ice.  One  hour  will  suffice 
for  this  operation.  Unmold  on  a  cold  dish  and  serve. 

(3139).  STEAWBEKEY  BLANC-MANGE  (Blanc-Manger  aux  Praises), 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  freshly  peeled  almonds,  a  few  at  a  time;  dilute  with  a  quart  of  cold 
milk  and  press  the  whole  slowly  through  a  napkin  held  by  two  persons,  so  as  to  extract 


FIG.  588. 

all  the  liquid  thoroughly;  mix  into  this  almond  milk  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
some  lemon  peel  or  half  a  split  vanilla  bean,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later  put  into  the  liquid 
fifteen  clarified  gelatine  leaves.  Strain  and  try  a  little  on  ice  to  judge  of  its  strength. 
Incrust  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  on  ice,  coat  it  with  clear  jelly  mixed  with  strawberry 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  911 

Or  orange  juice  and  filtered  through  blotting  paper.  Stir  on  ice  two-thirds  of  the  blanc-mange  to 
thicken  it  slightly,  using  a  spoon,  and  as  soon  as  perfect  mix  in  a  fine  salpicon  of  candied  pine- 
apple; pour  this  into  the  coated  mold  and  leave  it  stand  for  one  hour.  Thicken  the  remainder  of 
the  preparation  on  ice,  and  with  it  fill  five  small  timbale  molds  (No.  2,  Fig.  137),  also  incrusted 
on  a  thick  bed  of  ice  spread  over  the  bottom  of  a  deep  sautoir.  Three-quarters  of  an  hour  later 
empty  out  the  centers  of  the  small  molds  with  a  tin  tube  dipped  in  hot  water;  to  remove  these 
pieces  it  is  only  necessary  to  heat  the  bottom  of  the  molds  slightly;  replace  them  on  ice  and  fill 
the  center  with  some  of  the  same  preparation  mingled  with  strawberry  juice  (No.  3673);  let  this 
get  hard.  Unmold  the  small  timbales  and  cut  each  one  across  in  three  parts.  Dip  the  large  mold 
quickly  into  hot  water;  invert  on  a  cold  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  the  rings,  then  fill  up  the 
hollow  with  Chantilly  cream  (No.  50),  flavored  with  almonds,  having  it  dome-shaped.  Surround 
this  dome  with  a  few  large  strawberries,  each  one  cut  in  two  and  dressed  flat  to  resemble  a 
rosette.  Serve  at  the  same  time  a  bowlful  of  strawberry  puree  sweetened  with  syrup,  having  it 
very  cold. 

(3140).  CAROLINA  BOEDER  WITH  CHAMPAGNE  (Bordure  Caroline  au  Champagne). 
Make  an  apricot  "  pain"  preparation  (No.  3194)  a  little  thicker  than  usual,  into  which  add  the 
same  quantity  of  rice  cooked  with  cream  and  vanilla  (No.  160),  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream  (No.  50);  pour  it  into  a  Savarin  mold,  incrusted  in  pounded  ice.  Beside  this,  prepare  and 
mold  a  macedoine  jelly  with  champagne  the  same  as  for  No.  31 79,  having  it  in  a  dome  the  same  diame- 
ter at  the  bottom  as  the  hollow  in  the  Savarin  mold;  put  this  macedoine  in  the  ice-box  to  stiffen. 
One  moment  before  serving  unmold  the  border  on  a  cold  dish  and  in  the  center  place  a  pad  of  Gen- 
oese cake  (No.  3239),  reaching  three-quarters  to  the  top;  into  this  unmold  the  champagne  mace- 
doine and  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  croutons  made  of  ribboned  jelly  (No.  3184). 

(3141).  CHATEAU  FRAMBOISE    (Chateau  Framboise). 

Fasten  a  round  layer  of  office  paste  (No.  143)  on  a  dish  and  on  it  place  a  charlotte  mold  half 
an  inch  narrower  than  the  paste.  Prepare  a  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132)  with  five  ounces  of  butter,  three 
gills  of  water,  seven  ounces  of  flour,  a  spoonful  of  sugar,  lemon  peel,  a  grain  of  salt  and  five  eggs.  Put 
this  paste  into  a  socket  pocket  (Fig.  179),  and  put  it  on  a  baking  sheet  in  the  shape  of  thin  even 
eclairs  as  long  as  the  mold  is  high;  then  bake  them  in  a  slack  oven  until  dry,  then  allow  to  cool. 
After  the  cakes  are  detached  from  the  sheet,  keep  them  warm  for  a  few  moments.  When  cold, 
open  and  fill  them  with  raspberry  jam  (No.  3695)  pushed  through  a  cornet,  and  glaze  over  with 
sugar  cooked  to  "crack"  (No.  171).  As  this  becomes  cold  dip  one  end  and  one  side  into  the  same 
_  sugar  so  as  to  enable  them  to  stand  upright  on  the  layer  of  office  paste  around  the  mold.  When 
the  sugar  is  cold  lift  out  the  mold  and  fill  the  inside  of  the  case  with  a  raspberry  bavarois  prepara- 
tion, the  same  as  for  No.  3134,  thickened  on  ice,  and  lastly  having  a  salpicon  of  candied  pineapple 
added  to  it. 

(3142).  CHARLOTTE  BENGALIAN  (Charlotte  Bengalienne). 

Cook  a  flat  of  Genoese  paste  (No.  3239),  having  it  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  invert 
it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  pare  off  the  upper  crust  and  divide  it  into  two  bands,  each  to  be  two  and 
three-quarters  inches  wide;  cut  one  of  these  bands  into  short  uprights  slightly  inclined  toward  the 
right,  having  them  half  an  inch  wide,  and  the  other  band  the  same  width,  only  inclined  toward  the 
left.  Put  a  round  piece  of  paper  in  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mold,  against  its  sides  range  a  row 
of  these  uprights,  inclining  them  according  to  their  cut  and  alternating  those  with  crusts  with 
those  without  them.  On  this  first  row  range  a  second  the  same  way,  only  inclining  the  uprights 
in  the  opposite  direction.  Fill  the  charlotte  with  a  banana  "pain"  preparation  (No.  3J95),  and 
let  harden  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Unmold  the  dessert  on  a  dish,  and  just  when 
ready  to  serve  place  a  spun  sugar  ornament  on  top. 

(3143).  CHARLOTTE  OP  CALVILLE  APPLES  (Charlotte  de  Pommes  de  Calville). 

Cut  in  four  pieces  eight  or  ten  Calville  apples;  peel  and  cook  them  in  a  covered  saucepan  with  a 
little  water,  very  little  sugar,  a  bit  of  lemon  peel  and  half  a  vanilla  bean.  When  done  and  all  the 
moisture  is  evaporated,  press  them  through  a  sieve.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mold  with  • 
lady  finger  biscuits,  or  else  butter  biscuit  for  charlotte,  cooked  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with 
paper,  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  and  cut  up  into  long  triangles,  and  form  them  into  a  rosette 
without  any  open  space  whatever  between  the  pieces.  From  the  same  biscuits  cut  some  even 
upright  pieces  three  inches  wide  and  the  same  height  as  the  mold,  which  should  be  kept  on  ice. 
Pour  the  apple  pulp  into  a  round-bottomed  pan  and  dilute  .with  a  gill  of  syrup  mingled  with  a  sheet 


912  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  a  half  of  gelatine  that  has  been  softened  and  dissolved.  Stir  the  preparation  on  ice  to  thicken, 
and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  set  pour  in  quickly  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  rum  and  then 
a  quart  of  whipped  cream.  Two  minutes  after  turn  this  into  the  charlotte  mold  and  sur- 
round it  with  chopped  ice,  leaving  it  thus  for  one  hour,  and  when  needed  unmold  the  charlotte  on 
a  folded  napkin. 

(3144).  CHAKLOTTE  A  LA  METTEENIOH  (Charlotte  a  la  Metternicli) 

Prepare  a  paste  made  by  beating  three  whole  eggs  in  a  basin,  and  when  creamy  add  halt  a 
pound  of  sugar,  as  much  sifted  flour,  a  pinch  of  fecula  and  some  orange  sugar  (No.  3165).  The 
paste  should  be  quite  firm.  Then  force  it  through  a  pocket  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet, 
having  the  pieces  resemble  lady  fingers  all  of  the  same  size,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Detach 
them  from  the  sheet  and  cut  one  end  off  of  about  forty  and  leave  till  cold  leaning  against  a 
support,  so  as  to  have  them  slightly  bent  on  the  uncut  ends.  Dip  the  cut  end  of  each  biscuit  into 
sugar  cooked  to  "  small  crack"  (No.  171),  drain  it  off  and  fasten  the  cakes  upright  against  the 
thickness  of  a  round  flat  of  office  paste;  fasten  each  piece  with  cooked  sugar,  overlapping  them 
slightly  so  that  they  form  a  pretty  basket  spread  out  open  on  the  top.  When  the  sugar  is  quite  cold 
dress  the  basket  on  a  dish  and  fill  it  with  chestnut  puree  sweetened  with  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165) 
and  then  mingled  with  whipped  cream.  Surround  the  base  with  candied  chestnuts  dipped  in  sugar 
cooked  to  "  small  crack." 

(3145).  OHAELOTTE  BUSSE  (Charlotte  Busse). 

Lay  a  round  sheet  of  white  paper  at  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mold  and  line  it  all  around  with 
well-pared  lady  fingers  (No.  3377).  Boil  a  pint  of  milk  with  half  a  split  vanilla  bean;  beat  up  in  a 
vessel  six  egg-yolks  with  six  ounces  of  sugar  and  dilute  the  preparation  with  the  boiling  milk; 
pour  it  at  once  into  the  saucepan  and  thicken  over  a  moderate  fire  without  letting  it  come  to  a 
boil.  Then  take  out  the  vanilla  and  add  two  leaves  of  gelatine  softened  in  cold  water  then  melted 
in  a  gill  of  boiling  water.  Run  the  whole  through  a  fine  Chinese  strainer  into  a  vessel  and  leave 
to  cool  until  it  begins  to  thicken  slightly.  Then  mix  with  it  the  volume  of  three  pints  of  whipped 
cream  and  pouring  it  at  once  into  the  charlotte  mold  cover  with  another  round  of  paper  and  place 
the  mold  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When  ready  to  use  invert  the  charlotte  on  a  cold  dish 
covered  with  a  napkin,  remove  the  upper  paper  and  place  on  top  a  cover,  made  with  the  same  paste 
as  the  lady  fingers,  cut  the  same  dimension  as  the  charlotte,  icing  it  with  a  white  vanilla  icing 
(No.  102)  and  decorate  with  a  handsome  design  of  preserved  fruits  or  with  royal  icing. 

(3146).  OHABLOTTE  WITH  STEAWBEBBIES  OB  BASPBEBBIES  (Charlotte  aux  Praises  ou  aux" 

Framboises). 

Cut  a  few  large  lady  fingers  or  charlotte  biscuits  (No.  3377)  into  long  triangles  so  as  to  be  able 
to  place  them  in  the  shape  of  a  rosette  in  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mold,  pressing  them  down  on 
their  glazed  side;  cut  out  the  center  with  a  pastry  cutter  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter; 
replace  this  cut-out  piece  with  a  round  of  biscuit  cut  with  the  same  cutter;  then  cut  off  the  ends 
and  sides  of  a  few  of  the  same  biscuits  so  as  to  stand  them  upright  against  the  sides  of  the  mold, 
pressing  them  close  to  each  other.  Incrust  the  mold  in  ice.  Strain  first  through  a  sieve  and 
then  through  a  tammy  about  two  pounds  of  strawberries  or  raspberries;  sweeten  this  pulp  with 
some  thick  syrup  flavored  with  orange  peel  and  mixed  with  about  two  gelatine  leaves  or  clear 
melted  calf's  foot  jelly  (No.  104);  stir  the  preparation  on  ice  and  as  soon  as  it  thickens  incorporate 
into  it  slowly  the  volume  of  a  pint  and  a  half  of  very  firm,  well-drained  and  slightly  sweetened 
whipped  cream.  Fill  up  the  mold  with  this  and  let  harden  for  one  hour  on  ice.  At  the  last 
moment  dip  the  mold  into  tepid  water  and  invert  the  charlotte  on  a  napkin. 

(3147).  CHESTNUTS  WITH  OBEAM  (Marrons  a  la  Oreme). 

Shell  a  few  dozen  sound  chestnuts;  scald  them  in  order  to  remove  the  inner  skin,  then  cook 
them  very  slowly  in  milk  containing  a  piece  of  vanilla  bean.  When  done  all  the  liquid 
ought  to  be  evaporated.  Rub  them  through  a  sieve  to  make  a  pure"e.  Put  this  pure"e  into  a 
saucepan  with  half  its  weight  of  sugar;  work  the  paste  on  a  slow  fire  until  it  becomes  consistent 
and  detaches  from  the  saucepan;  leave  it  till  partly  cold,  then  run  a  little  of  it  at  a  time  through 
a  coarse  sieve,  pressing  it  down  with  a  large  spoon  so  that  it  falls  like  vermicelli;  lift  it  up  with  a 
palette,  dress  it  in  a  circle  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish  and  in  the  center  build  a  pyramid  of  whipped 
cream,  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  913 

(3148).  CORNETS  OP  ORANGE  CREAM  (Cornets,  Oublies,  Plaisirs  de  Creme  a  1'Orange), 
Pound  eight  ounces  of  shelled  and  peeled  almonds  with  eight  ounces  of  sugar  and  four  egg- 
whites  to  obtain  a  line  paste;  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  two  ounces  of  flour 
and  eight  lightly  beaten  egg-whites.  Dress  this  paste  on  a  waxed  baking  sheet,  laying  it  with  a  table- 
spoonful  into  thin  round  wafers  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  When  of 
a  fine  golden  color  remove  them  from  the  oven  and  roll  them  around  some  tin  cornet  forms  and 
leave  till  cold.  Dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  napkin  and  fill  each  one  with  whipped 
cream  flavored  with  orange. 


(3149).  CREAM  BAIN-MARIE-MOLDED  (Oreme  au  Bain-Marie 
Put  into  a  bright  copper  pan  two  spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  stir  it  on  a  slow  fire  until  it 
becomes  a  fine  yellow  color,  then  pour  it  into  the  bottom  of  a  low  charlotte  mold  and  let  get  cold. 
Break  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  five  or  six  yolks;  beat  them  up  for  two  minutes,  then 
dilute  with  a  quart  of  milk,  adding  ten  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  little  lemon  peel.  Ten 
minutes  later  strain  it  twice  through  a  sieve.  Butter  the  sides  of  the  mold,  pour  the  prepara- 
tion in,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  on  a  small  trivet  and  pour  hot  water  around  to  reach  up  to  half 
the  height  of  the  mold,  then  bring  to  a  boil;  remove  the  saucepan  to  a  slower  fire,  and  cover  it 
over;  place  some  hot  cinders  on  the  saucepan  lid  and  let  poach  for  one  hour  at  least  without  allow- 
ing the  water  to  boil.  Remove  the  saucepan  and  let  the  cream  get  partly  cold  before  taking  it  from 
the  water,  then  unmold  on  a  dish. 

(3150).  MALAKOFF  CREAM  (Oreme  Malakoff). 

Have  eighteen  to  twenty  ounces  of  Genoese  cake  (No.  3239)  or  biscuit  (No.  3231)  cut  into  not 
too  thick  slices.  Cut  up  some  candied  fruits,  such  as  apricots,  greengages  and  pineapple,  in  small 
dice,  adding  whole  candied  cherries.  With  seven  or  eight  egg-yolks,  a  pint  of  milk  and  ten  ounces 
of  sugar  prepare  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  ;  when  thick  and  nearly  cold  mix  with  it  four  spoonfuls 
of  dissolved  gelatine,  strain  and  stir  on  ice  to  reduce  it  to  the  correct  consistency  (it  must  be  very 
light);  then  mix  with  it  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  Incrust  a  souffle"  pan  (Fig.  182)  on 
ice.  Soak  the  sliced  biscuit  half  with  rum  and  the  other  half  with  kirsch  or  Curacoa;  spread  them 
in  layers  in  the  pan  and  pour  the  cream  over;  bestrew  with  the  candied  fruits,  and  repeat  until 
the  pan  is  entirely  full  and  forms  a  dome  on  top;  keep  it  on  ice  for  half  an  hour.  Cover  the 
dome  with  a  thin  coat  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  then  cover  with  sweetened  and  flavored 
whipped  cream;  decorate  with  the  same  cream,  and  place  the  pan  on  a  napkin  to  serve  at  once. 

(3151).  CREAM  OF  RICE  WITH  ANGELICA  (Crime  de  Riz  a  rAngelique), 
Pick  and  wash  four  ounces  of  good  rice  and  cook  it  till  tender  (keeping  the  grains  whole)  with 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  into  which  has  been  added  half  a  split  vanilla  bean;  pour  it  at  once  into 
a  basin.  Put  into  another  vessel  six  egg-yolks,  stir  in  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  and  dilute 
with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  pour  this  into  a  saucepan  to  thicken  over  the  fire,  and  then  add 
two  ounces  of  gelatine  softened  in  cold  water,  and  as  soon  as  the  gelatine  is  dissolved  strain  the 
whole  over  the  rice  and  mix  well  without  stirring  the  rice  more  than  necessary.  At  the  same  time 
incorporate  four  ounces  of  angelica  previously  washed  in  hot  water,  cut  in  small  three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  dice,  and  steeped  in  maraschino.  Set  the  preparation  on  ice  to  get  thoroughly  cold,  and 
as  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken  stir  in  as  much  whipped  cream;  pour  the  whole  into  a  plain  cylindrical 
mold  (Fig.  150),  and  keep  it  on  ice  for  two  hours.  Unmold  on  a  cold  dish,  and  garnish  around 
with  lady  bouch<§es  (No.  3376). 

(3152).  SPANISH  CREAM  (Oreme  a  1'Espagnole). 

Have  eight  egg-yolks  in  a  vessel  and  mix  in  with  them  eight  ounces  of  sugar;  dilute  with  a 
quart  of  boiling  milk,  thicken  on  the  fire,  and  remove  at  once  to  add  to  it  two  ounces  of  gelatine 
softened  in  cold  water;  leave  it  to  cool  off  partly;  now  strain  it  into  a  tin  basin,  adding  about  half 
a  pint  of  fine  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  diluted  with  a  gill  of  rum.  Have  this  preparation 
thicken  on  ice,  mixing  in  with  it  one  pint  of  whipped  cream,  and  then  pour  it  immediately  into  a 
jelly  mold  incrusted  on  ice.  Unmold  the  cream  when  ready,  and  surround  the  base  with  triangular 
cuts  of  sweet  jelly  (No.  106). 


914  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(3153).  TUTTI-FKUTTI  CREAM  (Creme  Tutti-Prutti). 

Cut  a  fine  salpicon  of  preserved  fruits  in  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  dice  pieces,  such  as 
peaches,  apricots,  pears,  almonds,  a  little  angelica,  and  whole  candied  cherries  (demi-sucre),  if 
small  (if  large  cut  in  two).  Sprinkle  a  little  maraschino  over,  and  leave  to  marinate  for  one  hour. 
Have  the  volume  of  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream,  add  to  it  a  gill  of  strawberry  pulp,  into  which  has 
been  mixed  a  little  melted  gelatine,  place  it  on  tee  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken  add  the 
fruits;  stir  them  in  very  slowly,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  cylindrical  timbale  mold;  cover  it  her- 
metically, cement  the  joints  well  with  paste,  and  set  it  on  lightly  salted  ice,  leaving  it  to  freeze 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When  ready  dip  the  mold  quickly  into  hot  water,  and  invert  the  cream 
on  a  cold  dish;  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  brandied  greengages  and  lozenges  of  angelica. 

(3154).  CREAM  WITH  CHERRIES  (Creme  aux  Cerises). 

Drain  on  a  sieve  a  quart  of  very  firm  whipped  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  with 
lemon.  Remove  the  stones  from  some  large,  black,  sweet  and  sound  cherries;  stew  them  with 
powdered  sugar,  then  leave  till  cold;  drain  their  syrup  into  a  pan  and  let  reduce  until  it  becomes 
thick.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  china  dish  with  a  layer  of  soft  macaroons  broken  in  pieces,  spread 
the  cherries  over,  and  mask  these  with  another  ounce  of  macaroons;  on  this  dress  the  cream  in  a 
dome;  smooth  and  decorate  through  with  the  cornet,  and  serve  the  syrup  separately. 

(3155).  CREAM  WITH  LEMON  PEEL  IN  POTS  (Pots  de  Oreme  aux  Zestes  de  Citron). 
Fill  eight  small  cream  pots,  half  with  cream  and  half  with  raw  milk.  Beat  up  in  a  bowl  eight 
whole  eggs  and  six  more  yolks,  add  five  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  a  bit  of  grated  lemon  peel  and 
a  grain  of  salt;  dilute  slowly  with  the  cream  and  milk;  strain  the  liquid  twice  through  a  sieve  and 
with  it  fill  a  dozen  cream  pots;  place  them  in  a  flat  saucepan  with  hot  water  reaching  to  half  their 
height,  and  heat  the  water  until  it  reaches  boiling  point.  Then  immediately  remove  the  saucepan 
to  a  very  slow  fire  so  that  the  water  only  simmers  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes  while  covered. 
Leave  them  in  this  until  the  cream  becomes  nearly  cold,  having  withdrawn  it  from  the  fire.  "Wipe 
off  the  pots  and  dress  them  on  a  dish. 

(3156).  CROWN  A  LA  CAMPER  (Couronne  k  la  Camper). 

Coat  a  border  mold  with  maraschino  jelly  (No.  3186);  fill  it  with  a  preparation  the  same  as  for 
•pain"  of  chestnut  a  la  Beotie  (No.  3196),  and  leave  to  get  quite  cold  on  ice.  Unmold  when  very 
firm  on  an  exceedingly  cold  dish;  fill  the  center  of  the  crown  three-quarters  full  with  Bar-le-duc 
jelly  and  finish  filling  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  maraschino,  having  it  slightly  sweetened; 
arrange  this  in  a  dome  and  decorate  it  through  the  cornet  with  some  of  the  same  cream;  place  it 
in  an  ice-box  for  one  hour,  then  serve. 

(3157).  CROWN  A  LA  OHOISEUL  (Oouronne  a  la  Ohoiseul). 

Cook  in  a  plain  shallow  and  narrow  border  mold  some  almond  biscuit,  the  same  as  for 
No.  3229.  Unmold  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  and  let  get  cold.  Then  cover  over  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  decorate  it  all  around  with  fancy  cuts  of  candied  fruits.  Incrust  in 
pounded  ice  another  border  mold  more  fanciful  and  slightly  wider  than  the  one  used  for  the  biscuit; 
decorate  the  bottom  of  it  with  candied  fruits  and  cover  this  with  a  layer  of  orange  jelly  (No.  3180). 
When  hard  slip  the  biscuit  into  this  mold  upside  down,  and  fill  the  empty  space  between  the  mold 
and  the  biscuit  with  more  of  the  cold  jelly.  One  hour  after  dip  the  mold  in  hot  water  and  wipe  and 
invert  the  dessert  on  a  cold  dish;  fill  the  center  with  a  pyramid  of  quartered  oranges  pared  to  the 
pulp,  the  pith  and  seeds  extracted  and  then  macerated  in  sugar.  Dress  this  pyramid  in  layers, 
pouring  some  thick  orange  peel  syrup  between  each  one. 

(3158).  CROWN  PRINTANIERE  (Couronne  Printaniere). 

Butter  a  large  Savarin  mold,  line  it  with  fine  flawn  paste  (No.  135),  and  cut  this  off  just  level 
with  the  edge  of  the  mold;  cover  over  the  inside  with  buttered  paper  and  fill  it  up  with  cherry 
pips  or  dry  rice  to  hold  the  paste  in  shape,  and  cook  the  crust  to  a  fine  color;  empty  it  out  as  soon 
as  done,  unmold  and  brush  over  with  beaten  eggs,  push  it  into  a  quick  oven  to  attain  a  good  golden 
color,  then  leave  till  cold.  Make  a  fresh  fruit  macedoine  composed  of  candied  cherries  (demi-sucre), 
strawberries  and  raspberries,  quarters  of  well-pared  oranges  and  a  few  red  currants;  besprinkle 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  915 

these  fruits  with  powdered  sugar,  pour  over  some  maraschino  and  let  macerate  for  one  hour.  One 
moment  before  serving  cover  the  inside  of  the  croustade  with  apricot  jam,  and  filling  it  level  with 
the  top  with  the  fruits  mask  them  with  currant  jelly  (No.  3670)  and  slip  it  on  a  dish.  Pile  the 
center  high  with  whipped  cream  and  arrange  around  the  crown  a  circle  of  handsome  greengages 
and  candied  cherries  (demi-sucre),  then  serve. 

(3159).  CUSTARD  IN  A  DISH  (Creme  au  Lait  Dans  un  Plat). 

Break  four  whole  eggs  in  a  tinned  basin;  add  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  flavor  either  with 
vanilla,  lemon  or  orange  peel  or  else  orange  flower  water  or  coffee,  according  to  taste;  whip  into 
this  one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  into  which  has  been  infused  the  vanilla,  lemon  or  orange  peel  or  else 
coffee  beans;  strain  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  with  this  preparation  fill  a  china  pie  dish  (Fig.  183) ; 
put  it  into  a  sautoir  with  a  little  boiling  water  on  the  bottom,  and  let  cook  in  a  slow  oven  from 
forty  to  fifty  minutes;  as  soon  as  the  custard  is  firm  take  it  from  the  sautoir  and  leave  stand  to 
cool.  When  serving,  a  bed  of  whipped  cream  may  be  placed  on  top,  flavored  the  same  as  the 
custard,  and  decorate  it  through  a  cornet. 

(3160).  CUSTARD  OR  BAIN-MARIE  CREAM  (Creme  au  Bain-Marie). 

Break  five  whole  eggs  in  a  vessel,  add  three  yolks,  six  ounces  of  sugar  (powdered),  grated 
lemon  and  orange  peel  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Dilute  with  two  gills  of  milk  and  two  gills  of  cream, 
beat  up  the  preparation,  strain  it  several  times  through  a  sieve,  then  pour  it  into  a  souffle  pan 
(Fig.  182)  or  simply  into  a  china  pie  dish  (Fig.  183) .  Stand  this  vessel  in  a  pan  containing  boiling 
water  and  push  it  in  a  slack  oven  to  bake.  Take  it  out  after  forty-five  or  fifty  minutes.  As 
soon  as  the  cream  is  firm  take  it  out  and  leave  cool.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  unmold  it  on  a  cold 
dish,  and  dress  over  the  top  some  whipped  cream  flavored  with  lemon. 

Another  way. — Have  one  pint  of  milk  and  one  pint  of  raw  cream,  six  eggs  and  eight  yolks, 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  one  grain  of  salt  and  either  some  orange-flower  water,  zests 
or  vanilla.  Dilute  with  the  milk  and  cream  and  strain  through  a  sieve;  put  this  preparation  into 
a  buttered  mold  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water  reaching  to  half  its  height;  push  it  into  a  slack 
oven  and  when  the  cream  is  firm  to  the  touch  unmold  it  on  a  dish. 

(3161).  CUSTARD  OR  BAIN-MARIE  CREAM  WITH  CARAMEL  (Creme  Bain-Marie  au  Caramel). 

Melt  half  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  pan  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  as  soon  as  of  a  light  golden 
color  pour  a  third  part  of  it  into  the  bottom  of  a  plain  timbale  mold  and  leave  to  cool.  Break 
six  whole  eggs  in  a  basin,  add  eight  yolks  and  beat  together  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  dilute 
with  a  quart  of  good  milk  and  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water  or  vanilla  and  strain  this 
preparation  two  or  three  times  through  a  colander,  and  pour  it  into  the  timbale  mold,  then  poach 
the  cream  in  a  bain-marie  in  a  slack  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  remove  and  cool  off  in  the 
bain-marie.  When  ready  detach  it  from  the  mold  with  the  blade  of  a  small  knife  and  turn  it  over 
on  a  cold  dish;  cover  with  a  caramel  syrup  made  with  the  remainder  of  the  caramel. 

(3162).  BAIN-MARIE  CREAM  WITH  VIRGIN  COFFEE  (Creme  Bain-Marie  au  Cafe  Vierge). 

Torrefy  half  a  pound  of  coffee  and  when  done  throw  it  into  a  saucepan  containing  a  quart  of 
boiling  milk;  close  hermetically  and  leave  to  infuse  for  half  an  hour.  Then  pass  the  milk  through 
a  fine  sieve  and  add  to  it  a  gill  of  rich  cream.  Put  eight  yolks  and  six  whole  eggs  into  another 
vessel,  beat  them  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  dilute  with  the  infusion  of  coffee;  strain  this 
preparation  two  or  three  times  through  a  wire  sieve  and  then  pour  it  into  a  lightly  buttered  and 
sugared  timbale  mold.  Bake  the  cream  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  in  a  bain-marie  in  a  slack 
oven  and  as  soon  as  done  remove  and  leave  it  to  cool  in  the  water  of  the  bain-marie.  When  ready 
to  serve  detach  it  all  around  with  the  blade  of  a  small  knife,  invert  it  on  a  cold  dish  and  pour 
over  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  prepared  with  coffee. 

(3163).  SNOW  EGGS  OR  FLOATING  ISLANDS  (Oeufs  a  la  Neige). 

Prepare  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  with  six  egg-yolks,  seven  ounces  of  sugar,  a  quart  of  milk, 
lemon  peel  and  a  grain  of  salt;  strain  it  several  times,  then  let  get  cold.  Beat  up  five  or  six  egg- 
whites  to  a  very  stiff  froth  and  incorporate  into  them  very  delicately  seven  ounces  of  fine  lemon- 
flavored  sugar  (No.  3165).  Boil  some  water  in  a  deep  sautoir,  remove  it  to  one  side,  mold  the 
beaten  whites  with  a  large  spoon,  as  explained  in  No.  155,  and  let  the  preparation  fall  into  the  sau- 
toir, retaining  the  shape  of  the  spoon;  turn  them  over  carefully.  As  soon  as  these  whites  become 


916  THE    EPICUREAN. 

hard  remove  them  with  a  skimmer  and  drain  on  a  cloth  spread  over  a  sieve;  when  cold  take  them 
up  one  by  one  to  pare  and  dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  cold  dish;  cover  them  lightly  with  some  of  the 
cold  English  cream,  serving  the  remainder  separately. 

These  eggs  can  be  poached  in  sweetened  milk  flavored  with  vanilla  instead  of  water,  using  the 
milk  to  make  the  sauce  by  adding  a  few  egg-yolks. 

(3164).  SNOW  EGGS  MOLDED  (CEufs  &  la  Neige  Moulds). 

Take  a  cylindrical  moM  having  wide  channels;  butter  it  with  clarified  butter  and  glaze  over 
with  sugar.  Beat  up  five  or  six  egg-whites  to  a  stiff  snow  with  a  grain  of  salt,  adding  slowly  to  it 
tialf  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  part  of  it  flavored  with  lemon  peel.  With  this  preparation  fill 
the  glazed  mold  and  set  in  a  saucepanful  of  boiling  water  to  reach  to  half  its  height;  poach  in  a 
slack  oven  until  it  becomes  firm,  and  lastly  unmold  on  a  dish;  cover  the  bottom  of  this  with  a 
little  English  cream  flavored  with  lemon  (No.  42)  and  serve  more  of  it  separately. 

(3165).  TO  FILTEE  FETJIT  JTJIOES,  TO  PLAVOE  SYBTJPS  WITH  ZEST  AND  TO  FLAVOR 
SUGAE  WITH  ZEST  OE  VANILLA  (Pour  Filtrer  les  Sues  de  Fruits,  Pour  Parfumer 
les  Sirops  aux  Zestes,  Pour  Parfumer  le  Sucre  aux  Zestes  et  k  la  Vanille). 

To  Filter  Fruit  Juices. — Orange  and  lemon  juices  are  those  most  frequently  filtered,  either 
through  a  filtering  paper  and  a  glass  funnel,  or  through  unsized  paper,  mashed  up,  washed  and 
converted  into  a  pulp,  then  spread  in  layers  on  a  clean  sieve.  To  filter  raspberry  and  currant 
juices  in  large  quantities  use  the  felt  straining  bag,  as  represented  for  filtering  jellies  (Fig.  50). 

To  Flavor  Syrup  with  Zest. — Infusions  are  made  of  lemon,  orange,  mandarin  or  Seville  orange 
peel.  First  peel  the  fruits  with  a  small  kitchen  knife,  being  careful  not  to  cut  off  any  of  the  white 
part,  as  this  is  always  bitter.  To  flavor  a  syrup  with  these  peels  they  need  only  to  be  macerated 
for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  little  tepid  water;  add  this  infusion  with  the  zest  to  some  cold  syrup; 
after  remaining  in  the  syrup  twenty-five  minutes  strain  through  a  fine  sieve. 

To  Flavor  Sugar  with  Zest. — To  flavor  sugar  with  fruit  peels,  rub  the  fruits  on  a  piece  of  loaf 
sugar,  and  at  once  grate  off  the  colored  damp  parts  of  the  sugar  with  a  knife;  put  this  on  sheets  of 
paper,  and  set  it  in  the  air  to  dry,  then  crush  with  a  rolling  pin  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve. 

To  Flavor  Sugar  with  Vanilla. — Cut  the  vanilla  beans  into  small  pieces,  pound  them  with 
the  loaf  sugar,  using  one  pound  of  sugar  for  two  ounces  of  vanilla;  sift  the  sugar  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  put  it  away  in  closed  glass  jars. 

(3166).  FLAMEI  OF  APPLES  (Flamri  aux  Pommes). 

For  this  dessert  emcloy  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  one  glassful  of  water,  eight  to  ten  apples  and  a  small 
tied  bunch  of  lemon  peel.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water  and  cook  it  to  large  ball  (No.  171);  add  half 
the  apples  peeled  and  minced,  and  boil  the  whole  slowly  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  then  put  in  the 
remainder  of  the  peeled  apples  and  the  lemon  peel.  Stir  around  at  frequent  intervals,  and  when 
the  sugar  has  again  attained  the  same  degree  (the  large  ball),  suppress  the  peel  and  pour  the  prep- 
aration into  a  dome-shaped  mold  dipped  in  cold  water;  keen  this  for  twelve  hours  in  a  cool  place. 
Unmold  on  a  cold  dish;  stick  on  the  top  small  fillets  of  almonds  lightly  roasted  in  the  oven,  and 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  either  rum  syrup  or  whipped  cream. 

(3167).  FLAMEI  OF  OEEAM  (Flamri  k  la  Grime), 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  white  wine  and  two  glassfuls  of  water;  add  a  bunch  of 
aromatics  and  a  grain  of  salt;  let  the  liquid  come  to  a  bcil,  then  incorporate  into  it  eight  ounces  of 
good  semolina;  continue  to  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  the  side  of  the  range;  when  done 
sweeten  with  eight  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  add  a  piece  of  lemon  peel  and  keep  the  preparation 
off  the  fire  for  ten  minutes;  let  get  cold,  stirring  from  time  to  time.  Incorporate  slowly  into  this 
preparation  about  two  glassfuls  of  good  double  cream,  beating  it  vigorously  on  ice;  pour  it  into  a 
charlotte  mold  dipped  in  coid  water  and  let  get  firm  or.  ice  for  one  hour.  Unmold  on  a  cold  dish 
and  serve  with  a  sweetened  puree  of  red  fruits,  either  strawberries  or  raspberries. 

(3168).  FLAMEI  OF  SEMOLINA  (Flamri  de  Semoule). 

Boil  two  quarts  of  milk;  incorporate  slowly  into  it  half  a  pound  of  semolina,  so  as  to  obtain  a 
light  preparation,  then  cook  it  while  stirring  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  when  creamy  mix  in  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt:  cook  again  for  ten  minutes,  then  take  from  the  fire  and  quickly 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  917 

add  six  to  seven  beaten  whites  with  a  little  sugar  stirred  in;  work  the  preparation  with  a  whip  so 
that  it  combines  well,  and  put  it  back  on  the  fire,  while  stirring  steadily.  "Watch  the  preparation 
attentively  so  as  to  remove  it  at  the  first  signs  of  a  boil,  then  mix  in  an  ounce  of  grated  bitter 
almonds.  Fill  two  or  three  molds  to  the  top  with  this,  having  them  simply  dipped  in  cold  water 
and  still  wet  in  the  inside;  let  cool  off  for  at  least  six  hours  in  a  very  cold  place,  or  in  the  ice-box, 
and  unmold  the  contents  on  dishes;  cover  the  bottoms  with  a  sweetened  raw  raspberry  pulp. 

(3169).  APPLE  FLAWN-LATTIOED  (Plan  de  Pommes  Grfflfi). 

Prepare  a  flawn  ring  the  same  as  for  an  apricot  flawn  (No.  3170);  fill  it  with  well-reduced  apple 
marmalade  (No.  3674)  flavored  with  lemon  peel.  Roll  out  some  parings  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  to  a 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  it  into  narrow  strips  or  bands  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  wide. 
Dampen  the  edges  of  the  flawn  and  lay  over  the  strips,  leaving  a  three-eighths  of  an  inch  space 
between  each  one;  fasten  well  and  cut  away  any  surplus  without  stretching  the  paste.  Moisten  the 
first  row  of  strips  with  a  brush,  arrange  another  row  over  slightly  on  the  bias  to  form  lozenges; 
fasten  them  also  to  the  edge,  having  the  whole  form  an  uniform  lattice  work;  egg  twice  and  cook 
in  a  hot  oven  for  one  hour.  After  removing  dust  over  with  tine  powdered  sugar,  and  again  put  in 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  glaze. 

(3170).  APKIOOT,  PEACH,  PLUM  OR  NECTARINE  FLAWN  (Flan  d'Abricots,  de  Peches,  de  Prunes 

on  de  Brngnons). 

With  some  flawn  paste  (No.  135)  line  a  flawn  ring  in  the  following  manner:  Butter  the  ring, 
roll  out  the  paste  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  lay  it  in  the  ring  so  that  it  has  the  same 


FIG.  589.  FIG.  590. 

thickness  throughout,  pressing  it  against  the  sides  to  equalize  it  well.  Cut  off  the  paste  a  little 
above  the  height  of  the  ring,  and  with  this  surface  form  a  ridge,  pinching  it  all  around  on  top  and 
outside.  Divide  some  apricots  in  two,  peel  and  dress  them  in  a  circle,  one  overlapping  the  other, 
inside  the  flawn;  place  the  cracked  and  peeled  kernels  here  and  there  among  the  fruit,  bestrew 
with  fine  sugar  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven;  remove,  unmold  and  brush  over  with  a  consistent 
syrup  flavored  with  kirsch,  then  serve. 

The  apricots  may  be  replaced  by  peaches,  plums  or  nectarines,  proceeding  exactly  the  same. 

(3171).  CHERRY  FLAWN  (Flan  aux  Cerises). 

After  lining  the  flawn  ring  the  same  as  the  apricot  flawn  (No.  3170),  fill  it  with  fine,  ripe,  sour 
cherries,  first  removing  the  pips  and  arranging  them  so  that  the  holes  caused  by  the  removal  of 
these  pips  lie  underneath;  dredge  with  sugar,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven;  when  done  cover  with 
currant  jelly  (No.  3670)  diluted  in  a  little  syrup.  Take  the  pie  from  the  ring,  leave  to  cool,  and 
when  serving  pour  over  more  of  the  currant  jelly  diluted  as  before. 

(3172).  FRUIT  FLAWN  (Flan  de  Fruits). 

Have  a  flawn  ring  lined  with  flawn  paste  (No.  135);  raise  the  edges  to  form  a  ridge,  pinching 
this  evenly;  prick  the  bottom,  egg  the  ridge  twice  and  line  the  inside  with  buttered  paper;  fill  with 
very  dry  rice  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  Empty  and  cover  the  bottom  with  fine  apple  marma- 
lade (No.  3674)  reduced  with  apricot;  on  top  lay  some  white  halved  apples  cooked  in  syrup  and 
properly  drained,  some  white  competed  halved  pears,  strawberries,  cherries,  grapes  or  any  other  kind 
of  fine  green  and  red  fruits;  pour  vanilla  syrup  over,  and  cover  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668),  having 
previously  poured  it  in  a  very  thin  layer  on  a  plate  the  same  size  as  the  flawn.  To  remove  this 
jelly  from  the  plate  press  a  sheet  of  paper  of  larger  dimensions  than  the  plate  over  it,  detach  the 
jelly  from  the  plate  all  around  with  the  tip  of  a  knife  and  lift  the  jelly  by  carefully  raising  one  side 
of  the  paper.  Invert  this  on  the  pie,  wet  the  paper  and  lift  it  off  without  the  jelly. 


918  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3173).  GOOSEBERRY  FLAWN  (Flan  aux  Groseilles  Vertes), 

Line  some  flawn  rings  the  same  as  for  apricot  flawns  (No.  3170);  cut  off  with  the  tip  of  a  small 
knife  all  the  stalks  and  stems  of  some  gooseberries;  arrange  them  inside  the  flawn,  one  beside  the 
other,  very  close  together;  bestrew  plentifully  with  powdered  sugar  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  As 
soon  as  it  is  done  remove,  cool  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  apple  jelly  (No.  3668)  diluted  in  a  little 
thick  syrup. 

(3174).  MERINGUE  FLAWN  (Flan  Meringue"). 

Line  a  flawn  ring  with  flawn  paste  (No.  135);  raise  the  edges  and  leave  to  repose  for  half  an 
hour.  Make  a  frangipane  cream  (No.  44),  well  flavored  with  vanilla;  as  soon  as  cold  fill  the  pie 
with  it  as  far  as  the  top,  then  push  it,  into  a  hot  oven;  remove  when  baked,  cool  and  cover  the  top 
with  a  thin  coating  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  cover  it  all  with  meringue  (No.  140).  Smooth 
this  with  a  knife  and  decorate  with  some  more  of  it  pushed  through  a  cornet;  bestrew  the  entire 
surface  lightly  with  icing  sugar,  set  it  in  a  slack  oven  to  color  the  meringue,  then  decorate  through 
a  cornet  with  currant  jully  (No.  3670)  or  apple  jelly  (No.  3668),  placing  it  inside  the  decorations, 
representing  round  or  oval  rosettes. 

(3175).  PEAR  AND  APPLE  FLAWN  (Flan  aux  Poires  et  aux  Pommes). 

Line  a  flawn  ring  the  same  as  for  apricot  flawn  (No.  3170);  fill  the  bottom  halfway  up  with  fine 
well-reduced  apple  marmalade  (No.  3668);  over  lay  peeled  and  cored  pears  or  apples,  cut  either  in 
four  or  in  quarter-inch  slices;  range  them  the  way  they  are  cut  into  a  rosette  on  the  marmalade, 
bestrew  with  sugar  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  When  done  thoroughly,  remove,  brush  over  with 
apple  (No.  3668)  and  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  half  and  half,  diluted  with  a  little  syrup. 

(3176).  GARNISHINGS  FOR  COLD  DESSERTS  (Garnitures  Pour  Entremets  Froids). 
These  are  composed  of  competed  fruit,  small  cakes  or  frequently  of  cold  croutons  made  with  blanc 
mange,  jelly  or  fruit  "  pain "  preparation.  These  croutons  are  sometimes  plain  and  sometimes 
ribboned.  To  make  them  proceed  as  follows:  Prepare  some  very  clear  jelly  and  pour  it  on  a  tin 
sheet  in  an  even  layer  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick;  place  this  perfectly  straight  in  the  ice-box 
to  have  the  jelly  harden;  when  quite  so,  dip  the  sheet  into  very  hot  water,  and  turn  the  jelly  over 
on  a  cloth.  Triangle-shaped  or  cube-shaped  croutons  can  be  made  by  first  dividing  the  jelly  into  long 
bands,  then  cutting  the  croutons  into  any  desired  form.  Should  they  be  needed  round  or  in  crescents, 
then  cut  them  with  a  pastry  cutter  or  tin  tube.  To  have  them  ribboned,  pour  first  a  layer  of  clear 
or  whipped  jelly  on  the  sheet,  and  when  hard  pour  a  second  one  over,  either  of  colored  jelly  tinted 
with  carmine  or  a  shaded  "  pain"  preparation;  as  soon  as  this  is  set  turn  it  over  on  a  cloth  and  cut 
the  same  as  for  the  above.  Pretty  croutons  can  also  be  made  as  follows:  Have  twelve  No.  2  or  3 
mousseline  molds  (Fig.  138);  fill  six  of  them  with  carmine-tinted  jelly,  and  leave  till  very  cold, 
then  invert  them  on  a  cloth  and  cut  perpendicularly  in  two  even  parts;  lay  each  of  these  in  one  of  the 
twelve  molds,  and  fill  the  empty  space  with  blanc-mange  preparation,  and  leave  to  harden.  When 
this  is  very  firm  empty  out  the  center  of  the  timbale  with  a  tin  tube,  and  fill  the  hollow  space  with 
chocolate  bavaroise  (No.  3131);  after  the  timbales  become  quite  cold  unmold  and  cut  them  perpen- 
dicularly in  two.  When  dressing  put  the  rounded  side  of  the  timbale  turned  toward  the  entremets. 

(3177).  GOOSEBERRIES  WITH  CREAM  (Groseilles  Vertes  a  la  Oreme). 

Pick  a  few  handfuls  of  still  green  but  firm  gooseberries;  put  them  into  a  copper  pan  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  hot  water  and  a  handful  of  sugar;  let  dissolve  while  tossing,  and  then  press  through  a 
sieve;  return  the  puree  to  the  pan,  sweeten  and  reduce  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  marmalade, 
then  pour  it  into  a  tart  dish  and  leave  till  cold.  Cover  it  with  sweetened  whipped  cream  flavored 
with  lemon,  smooth  nicely,  and  decorate  the  surface  with  cream  pushed  through  a  cornet.  The 
cream  can  be  mixed  in  with  the  pure"e  if  so  desired. 

(3178).  OALIFORNIAN  PINEAPPLE  JELLY  (Gele"e  aux  Ananas  Oalifornienne). 
Pare  neatly  a  ripe,  medium-sized  pineapple;  split  it  in  two  lengthwise;  remove  the  core  and 
cut  it  into  thin  crosswise  slices;  arrange  these  in  a  dish  and  cover  with  a  quart  of  thirty-degree 
syrup  and  one  gill  of  cognac;  let  macerate  for  two  hours.     Put  into  a  tinned  basin  four  ounces  of 
gelatine  with  a  quart  of  water,  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  six  oranges,  also  the  peel  of  half  a 
and  the  same  of  an  orange;  clarify  with  six  egg-whites,  adding,  just  before  the  filtering 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  919 

process,  all  of  the  syrup  used  for  marinating  the  pineapple.  As  soon  as  the  jelly  is  properly 
filtered  pour  it  into  a  vessel,  cool  partly  on  ice,  and  let  fall  on  the  top  three  pure  gold  leaves;  mix 
the  jelly  so  that  the  gold  separates  and  spreads.  Incrust  a  jelly  mold  on  pounded  ice,  pour  into  it 
a  layer  of  the  gold  mixed  jelly  and  let  it  get  hard;  on  this  dress  a  crown  of  the  prepared  pineap- 
ples, drained  and  well  wiped,  and  over  pour  a  second  layer  of  the  jelly;  when  this  is  also  hard 
range  another  crown  of  pineapple,  and  continue  until  the  mold  is  full.  Set  the  jelly  on  ice  for  two 
hours  to  stiffen  thoroughly;  unmold  it  on  a  cold  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  the 
slices  of  pineapple,  one  overlapping  the  other. 


(3179).  MACEDOINE  JELLY  WITH  CHAMPAGNE  (Gelee  MacMoine  an  OhampagneX 

Prepare  a  mace"doine  of  preserved  or  fresh  fruits.  They  should  be  firm.  Cut  in  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  dice  and  steep  in  brandy.  Besides  this  prepare  two  quarts  of  orange  jelly  (No.  3180) 
and  pour  it  into  a  small  bowl  packed  in  ice;  stir  it  continuously  until  almost  cold,  then  add  to  it 
half  a  bottleful  of  champagne  and  continue  to  work  it  in  until  it  attains  the  consistency  of  a 
thick  syrup.  Now  put  in  the  well-drained  and  wiped  fruits.  Keep  on  turning  until  the  jelly 
begins  to  solidify,  then  transfer  it  to  a  jelly  mold  that  has  been  incrusted  on  pounded  ice;  lay  more 
of  it  over  and  leave  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  set  thoroughly.  Unmold  as  for  No.  3182. 

(3180).  ORANGE  JELLY  IN  CUPS  (GelSe  d'Orange  en  Tasses). 

Put  four  or  five  gills  of  sweet,  clarified,  liquid  jelly  (No.  106)  intoabowl;  when  quite  cold  mix  in 
with  it  the  juice  of  three  or  four  oranges  filtered  through  filtering  paper  spread  on  a  sieve;  add  two 
or  three  drops  of  liquid  clarified  carmine  and  incrust  the  vessel  in  chopped  ice.  Stir  the  jelly  with 
a  spoon  until  it  is  half  set,  then  mix  in  with  it  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  candied  orange  peel  cut 
in  very  small  dice;  stir  again  for  two  minutes,  and  with  a  spoon  fill  up  some  very  cold  small  cups; 
keep  these  for  twenty  minutes  on  ice  before  serving. 

(3181).  EOSE  JELLY  (GelSe  a  la  Eose). 

Place  a  pan  on  the  fire  containing  one  pint  of  clear  syrup  at  twenty-eight  degrees;  at  the  first 
boil  mix  in  with  it  two  handfuls  of  fresh,  highly  perfumed  rose  leaves,  and  remove  from  the 
fire  to  let  infuse  a  quarter  of  an  hour  while  covered.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
mix  in  with  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of  gelatine  or  clarified  isinglass,  adding  also  two  gills  of  filtered 
orange  and  lemon  juice,  and  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  good  brandy.  Taste  the  jelly,  test  its  con- 
sistency on  ice,  in  a  small  mold,  and  when  perfect  pour  it  into  a  jelly  mold  and  let  harden  for  one 
hour  on  ice,  then  unmold  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3182).  EUSSIAN  JELLY  (Gele"e  a  la  Eusse). 

Make  about  a  quart  of  unflavored  jelly  (No.  106);  set  it  on  ice  to  get  thoroughly  cold,  add  to 
it  as  much  champagne,  beating  continuously  until  the  preparation  has  the  appearance  of  a  cream; 
as  soon  as  it  begins  to  acquire  consistency  pour  it  at  once  into  a  jelly  mold  (Fig.  154)  previously  in- 
crusted  in  slightly  salted  ice;  set  the  cover  on  top,  then  cover  over  with  salted  ice.  Let  it  freeze 
for  half  an  hour,  and  when  ready  to  serve  dip  the  mold  quickly  in  hot  water,  wipe  it  off,  and  in- 
vert the  jelly  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3183).  STEAWBEEEY  OE  EASPBEEEY  JELLY  (Gele"e  aux  Praises  ou  anx  Framboises). 

Boil  one  quart  of  syrup  to  thirty  degrees,  pour  it  still  boiling  on  a  pound  of  good  picked  straw- 
berries or  raspberries;  two  hours  later  strain  this  syrup  through  a  jelly  bag.  Clarify  and  filter 
four  ounces  of  gelatine  in  a  quart  of  water  with  six  beaten  whites,  let  cool  off  partly,  and  add  to  it 
the  strawberry  or  raspberry  syrup,  and  a  few  drops  of  carmine.  Incrust  a  jelly  mold  (Fig.  154) 
on  chopped  ice,  fill  it  with  the  jelly,  and  put  the  cover  on  top;  cover  this  with  ice  and  leave  the 
jelly  to  set  for  two  hours;  when  ready  to  use  dip  the  mold  into  hot  water  and  unmold  the  jelly 
on  a  cold  dish. 

(3184).  TUNISIAN  JELLY,  EIBBONED  (Gelee  Tunisienne  Enhance). 

Prepare  about  a  quart  of  strawberry  jelly,  the  same  as  for  No.  3183,  also  a  quart  of  lemon 
jelly  into  which  has  been  added  a  gill  of  kirsch;  put  this  last  into  a  tin  basin  and  beat  it  on  ice  until 
it  becomes  white.  Incrust  a  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  on  ice;  pour  into  its  bottom  a  half-inch  thick 


920 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


layer  of  the  white  jelly  and  let  get  quite  hard;  then  on  it  pour  a  layer  of  the  strawberry  jelly  of 
the  same  thickness  as  the  other,  and  leave  it  also  to  harden;  on  this  pour  another  one  of  white 
jelly,  and  continue  the  same  until  the  mold  is  completely  full,  and  let  the  whole  get  thoroughly 
hard  on  ice.  Unmold  it  at  the  last  moment. 

(3185).  VIOLET  JELLY  (Qelfe  aux  Violettes). 

Put  one  pint  of  clear  syrup  into  a  newly  tinned  and  clean  saucepan;   bring  it  to  a  boil, 
then  remove  and  throw  in  a  heaping  handful  of  fresh  violets,  after  suppressing  their  stalks;  let 


FIG.  591. 

infuse  for  half  an  hour  with  the  cover  on.  Strain  the  liquid  into  a  glazed  vessel,  and  mix  in  with 
it  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  clarified  gelatine  with  some  orange  and  lemon  juice.  Taste  the  jelly, 
to  try  its  consistency,  and  then  pour  it  into  a  mold  incrusted  in  broken  ice  and  let  set  for  one  hour 
and  a  half,  and  when  ready  to  serve  dress  it  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3186).  WINE  AND  LIQUOK  JELLY  (Gele~e  aux  Vins  et  aux  Liqueurs). 
All  wine  and  liquor  jellies  are  made  the  same  way.  Prepare  a  sweet  gelatine  or  fish  isinglass 
jelly,  the  same  as  described  in  No.  106.  As  soon  as  this  is  clarified  and  filtered  add  the  wine 
desired  for  flavoring  the  jelly,  such  as  Madeira,  Marsala,  sherry.  Malaga,  port,  etc.,  or  any  liquors 
such  as  kirsch,  maraschino,  noyau,  Curagoa,  kiimmel,  etc.,  mixing  the  liquor  well  with  the  jelly, 
then  pour  into  a  mold  previously  incrusted  on  ice.  Leave  to  harden  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  two  hours. 


(3187).  JELLY  WITH  PEUITS  AND  KIESOH  (Gele~e  aux  Fruits  et  au  Kirsch). 
Prepare  about  a  quart  of  clarified  gelatine  with  sugar,  the  filtered  juice  of  four  lemons, 
orange  peels  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges.  Try  its  consistency  in  a  small  mold  on  ice.  Incrust  an 
ornamental  jelly  mold  (Fig.  149)  or  else  a  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  on  ice.  Prepare 
a  macedome  of  either  fresh  or  candied  fruits,  having  greengages,  apricots,  pineapples,  cherries, 
small  quartered  and  peeled  oranges,  small  balls  of  white  apples,  cooked  in  white  syrup, 
and  small  balls  of  pears  cooked  red  and  also  some  strawberries  or  raspberries,  currants  or  grapes. 
Candied  fruits  should  be  washed  in  warm  water,  then  carefully  dried,  while  the  fresh  ones  should 
remain  in  their  natural  state.  Take  as  much  of  these  fruits  as  are  necessary  to  fill  the  mold,  varying 
the  different  kinds;  pour  the  jelly  into  a  small  tin  basin,  mix  in  with  it  a  gill  of  kirsch  and  lay  it  on 
ice,  stirring  it  around  with  a  clean  tinned  spoon  until  it  commences  to  set,  then  put  in  the  selected 
fruits,  either  cut  up  or  whole.  Take  up  this  preparation  with  a  silver  soup  ladle  and  pour  it  into 
the  mold  until  it  reaches  the  top,  then  cover  over  with  a  round  sheet  of  paper  and  close  with  a  deep 
cover  (Fig.  146)  filled  with  pounded  ice;  keep  it  this  way  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  At  the  last 
moment  dip  the  mold  in  hot  water,  wipe  dry  and  invert  on  a  cold  dish.  For  a  change,  or  should 
the  jelly  appear  weak,  the  mold  can  be  frozen  with  a  little  salted  ice,  but  only  ten  or  twelve  minutes 
previous  to  serving. 

(3188).  MACARONADE  (Macaronade). 

Prepare  a  small  vanilla  frangipane  cream  (No.  44),  neither  too  sweet  nor  too  light;  add  to  it 
an  equal  amount  of  sweet  jelly  (No.  106);  when  cold  add  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  candied  pineapple 
cut  in  small  dice  and  stir  on  ice  with  a  spoon  until  it  becomes  quite  stiff.  Cut  two  dozen  soft 
macaroons  in  halves,  dip  the  pieces  one  by  one  in  maraschino  and  range  them  at  once  on  a  dish, 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  921 

leaving  them  until  they  have  entirely  absorbed  all  the  liquor.  Pour  into  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
dish  a  layer  of  the  prepared  cream;  on  this  set  a  layer  of  the  soaked  macaroons;  cover  over  with 
more  cream  and  continue  to  alternate  the  cakes  and  cream  until  a  high  pyramid  is  formed,  then 
smooth  the  surface  and  keep  it  for  ten  minutes  on  ice;  cover  the  whole  with  a  layer  of  well- 
whipped  cream,  drained  thoroughly  and  flavored  with  vanilla,  but  only  slightly  sweetened; 
smooth  the  cream,  decorate  it  through  a  cornet  and  serve  at  once. 

(3189).  MAKSHAL  NEY  (Marshal  Ney), 

Pound  four  ounces  of  peeled  almonds  with  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  enough  egg- 
white  to  have  a  fine  paste;  put  this  into  a  vessel  and  mix  in  two  ounces  of  flour,  two  whole  eggs  and 
one  stiffly  beaten  white.  Push  this  preparation  through  a  pocket  provided  with  a  three-eighths 
inch  diameter  socket  on  buttered  sheets  in  two-inch  lengths  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven;  remove 
and  cool.  Have  four  lightly  oiled  hexagonal  tin  rings  ranging  from  five  to  eight  inches  in  diameter 
and  one  and  three-quarters  inches  high;  cut  the  above  marchpanes  the  same  size  as  the  sides  of 
the  hexagon;  fasten  these  around  the  hexagonal  rings  with  some  sugar  cooked  to  "small  crack" 
(No.  171);  unmold,  stand  one  on  top  of  the  other,  graduating  the  sizes,  and  fill  the  inside  with  alter- 
nate layers  of  vanilla  bavarois  (No.  3135),  intercalated  with  small  meringue  shells  made  with  fifteen 
egg-whites  to  one  pound  of  sugar.  On  the  top  set  one  large  meringue  filled  with  Bavarian  cream 
and  coated  with  sugar  cooked  to  "crack;"  sprinkle  over  the  sugar  while  hot  some  finely  sliced 
pistachios. 


.  (3190).  MOSAIC  WITH  OEEAM  (Mosaique  a  la  Oreme). 

Incrust  an  ogive-shaped  mold  (Fig.  151)  in  ice.  In  this  place  another  mold  half  an  inch  less 
in  diameter;  fill  the  inside  mold  with  chopped  ice;  pour  some  kirsch  jelly  between  the  two  molds 
so  as  to  fill  the  empty  space  entirely,  and  when  this  gets  hard  remove  the  ice  from  the  inside  mold, 
replacing  it  with  warm  water,  so  it  can  be  removed.  Cut  some  Genoese  cake  (No.  3239)  and  can- 
died fruits  into  large  uniform  squares,  add  a  few  candied  cherries  and  with  this  salpicon  fill  the 
empty  space  in  the  jelly.  Prepare  an  English  vanilla  cream  (No.  42),  cool  it  on  ice  and  incorporate 
into  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  cream;  pour  this  slowly  over  the  salpicon  in  such  a  way 
that  it  falls  through  to  the  bottom,  then  set  it  away  on  ice  for  one  hour;  lastly,  dip  the  mold 
quickly  into  hot  water,  wipe  it  dry  and  turn  the  jelly  on  a  cold  dish;  serve  it  at  once. 


(3191).  MOSOOVITE  OF  STRAWBERBIES  (Moscovite  aux  Praises). 

Put  one  pint  of  clear  gelatine  jelly  (No.  106)  into  a  glazed  vessel,  having  it  only  half  as  thick  as 
usual  but  much  sweeter.  In  another  vessel  have  a  pint  of  strawberry  pulp;  mixing  with  a  grated 
slice  of  fresh  pineapple,  a  small  tied  bunch  of  lemon  or  orange  peel,  a  bit  of  vanilla,  the  juice  of 
five  or  six  oranges  and  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  let  the  whole  macerate  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  then  strain  and  mix  it  in  with  the  jelly.  Pour  this  preparation  into  a  large  jelly  mold  fur- 
nished with  a  cover  (Fig.  144),  and  let  freeze  for  at  least  two  hours  in  a  pail  with  salted  ice  and 
saltpetre.  At  the  last  moment  remove  the  paste  from  the  mold,  also  the  cover,  and  dip  briskly  in 
warm  water;  wipe  and  turn  the  jelly  out  on  a  cold  dish,  and  surround  it  with  a  garnishing  of 
small  cakes. 


(3192).  MOSSAGANEM  (Mossaganem). 

Prepare  a  little  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132).  Cut  some  round  pieces  of  white  paper  four  inches 
in  diameter,  and  butter  the  edges  lightly;  lay  the  paste  in  a  socket  pocket  and  push  it  to  resemble 
crowns  on  the  edges  of  these  papers,  then  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet;  egg  over  the  paste  and 
bake  in  a  slack  oven.  After  removing  the  crowns  detach  them  from  the  papers  and  let  cool  off; 
open  them  all  around  at  their  base,  and  fill  them  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  pushed  through 
a  cornet,  then  range  them  in  the  center  of  a  cold  dish  on  top  of  each  other,  alternating  each  layer 
with  one  of  frangipane  cream  with  vanilla  (No.  44),  to  which  pounded  almonds  and  hazel-nut 
butter  have  been  added.  Cover  the  inside  of  the  hollow  formed  by  the  crowns  with  a  thin  layer 
of  whipped  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla.  With  this  same  cream  cover  the  entire 


922  THE    EPICUREAN. 

outside  of  the  cake,  smooth  the  surface  and  decorate  with  more  of  the  cream  pushed  through  a 
cornet.  At  the  last  moment  decorate  the  hollow  with  strawberries,  sprinkled  over  with  a  little 
thick  syrup  and  maraschino. 

(3193).  ORNAMENTS  FOR  COLD  DESSEETS  (Ornements  d'Entremets  Froids). 

Uprights  are  generally  used  for  cylindrical  molds;  they  are  made  with  a  wooden  base-plate, 
having  a  hole  bored  in  the  center  to  insert  a  column  therein;  this  column  must  be  higher  than  the 
mold  and  of  proportionate  thickness  to  the  opening  in  the  cylinder.  It  answers  the  purpose  of  sup- 
porting the  dessert  and  all  the  ornamental  pieces  laid  on  top.  These  wooden  supports  are  covered 
with  gum  paste  and  surrounded  by  a  gum-paste  edge.  Cold  dessert  ornaments  consist  of  hatelets, 
voluptes,  tufts  and  aigrettes. 

Hatelets  are  silver-plated  skewers  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide  and  eight  inches  long,  pointed  on 
one  end,  and  fancifully  decorated  on  the  other;  these  hatelets  are  garnished  with  rounds  of 
different  colored  fruits  and  finished  as  explained  in  No.  2526,  using  sweet  jelly  (No.  106)  instead  of 
aspic  jelly.  They  can  be  used  to  decorate  cold  entremets.  "When  required  for  ornamenting  large 
dessert  cakes  they  are  simply  garnished  with  fine  preserved  fruits. 

Voluptes  are  scrolls  of  arabesque  design  made  of  cooked  sugar  poured  in  thin  fillets  on  lightly 
oiled  marble  and  then  grouped  together,  standing  upright  in  fours,  sixes  or  eights,  also  cast  in 
sugar. 

Tufts  are  made  of  spun  sugar  molded  in  the  hand  into  the  shape  of  a  ball.  These  balls  are  at 
times  laid  directly  on  the  dessert  or  else  on  voluptes  of  cooked  sugar. 

Aigrettes  are  also  made  of  spun  sugar  put  together  like  a  small  sheaf;  this  is  cut  off  straight  at 
a  certain  height,  then  molded  into  the  shape  of  a  cone;  clip  it  off  short,  invert  and  fasten  it  on  the 
dessert,  either  on  top  of  a  tuft  or  in  the  center  of  a  volupte.  Spun  sugar  is  also  used  for  making 
sultanas. 

(3194).  "PAIN"  OF  APRICOTS  (Pain  d'Abricots). 

Soften  two  ounces  of  gelatine  in  cold  water  and  dissolve  it  in  a  gill  of  almond  milk  (No.  4)  and 
a  gill  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees;  pass  it  at  once  through  a  fine  colander  into  a  tinned  basin. 
Place  in  another  vessel  a  pint  and  a  half  of  fine  apricot  puree  sweetened  and  flavored  with  a  little 
kirsch;  pour  this  puree  in  with  the  gelatine,  and  standing  it  on  ice  stir  steadily  until  cold.  As  soon 
as  it  begins  to  thicken  transfer  it  into  a  cylindrical  jelly  mold  incrusted  in  chopped  ice,  keeping  it 
thus  for  another  hour  and  a  half.  When  ready  to  serve  unmold;  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of 
fine  halved  apricots  covered  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  diluted  with  a  little  kirsch. 

(3195).  "PAIN"  OF  BANANAS,  HAVANESE  (Pain  de  Bananes  Havanaise). 
Peel  eight  very  ripe  bananas;  crush  the  pulps  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin; 
add  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  a  gill  of  water, 
then  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve;  let  it  get  thoroughly  cold  on  ice  and  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  set  incorporate  into  it  the  same  quantity  of  very  firm  whipped  cream.  Have  prepared  a 
quart  of  clear  jelly  (No.  106)  flavored  with  rum,  colored  with  carmine,  and  let  cool  to  the  consistency 
of  a  thick  syrup.  Incrust  a  cylindrical  jelly  mold  (Fig.  150)  in  ice,  pour  into  the  bottom  a  three- 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  the  banana  preparation  and  leave  it  to  harden;  on  this  pour  a  layer 
of  the  same  thickness  of  the  rum  jelly,  leaving  it  also  to  harden,  and  over  this  pour  another  layer  of 
the  banana  preparation,  then  another  of  the  jelly,  and  so  on  until  the  mold  is  entirely  filled,  being 
careful  that  each  layer  is  of  equal  thickness.  Cover  the  top  with  a  round  piece  of  paper,  then 
place  on  a  lid  with  chopped  ice  over;  leave  stand  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  so  that  it  is 
perfectly  hard  before  unmolding. 

(3196).  "PAIN"  OF  CHESTNUTS  A  LA  BEOTIE  (Pain  de  Marrons  a  la  B6otie). 
Incrust  in  ice  a  flat,  dome-shaped  mold;  docorate  the  inner  sides  with  fanciful  cuts  of  assorted 
candied  fruits,  dipping  each  piece  in  half-set  jelly,  then  coating  with  a  layer  of  rather  firm  blanc- 
mange (No.  3138),  having  it  a  third  of  an  inch  thick.  Cover  the  mold  with  a  lid  with  ice  on  top. 
Put  into  a  vessel  four  gills  of  sweet  chestnut  pur£e  (No.  3136),  dilute  it  with  four  spoonfuls  of 
maraschino  and  a  few  gills  of  thick  vanilla  syrup,  beat  the  preparation  on  ice  to  thicken  and  as 


SWEET    EJSTTREMETS. 


923 


,/xm  as  this  occurs  incorporate  into  it  about  four  or  five  gills  of  good  whipped  cream;  two  minutes 
later  add  a  small  salpicon  of  candied  pineapple  and  then  pour  the  whole  into  the  hollow  of  the. 


FIG.  592. 

mold;  replace  the  lid,  covering  it  at  once  with  more  ice,  and  after  the  lapse  of  an  hour  dip  the 
mold  quickly  into  hot  water,  wipe  and  turn  the  cream  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3197).     PAINS"  01  STRAWBERRIES  WITH  CREAM-SMALL  (Petits  Pains  de  Praises  &  la 

Oreme). 

Decorate  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a  dozen  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  that  have  been  on  ice 
with  fresh  strawberries  cut  in  two,  being  careful  to  dip  each  piece  in  half-set  jelly  before  applying 
it;  then  coat  them  with  jelly,  leaving  an  empty  space  in  the  center  and  fill  this  with  a  puree 
of  candied  pineapple  mingled  with  some  jelly  and  two  spoonfuls  of  kirsch.  Incrust  a  dome- 


FlG.  593. 

shaped  or  pyramidical  mold  on  ice,  fill  it  with  a  puree  of  strawberries,  to  which  melted  gelatine  has 
been  added;  thicken  on  ice.  and  let  it  get  quite  hard.  Fasten  on  a  cold  dish  a  bottom  of  Genoese 
cake  (No.  3239),  slightly  wider  than  the  open  part  of  the  mold;  scoop  it  out  lightly  so  as  to 
permit  the  strawberry  "pain "  to  stand  upright  inside  of  it,  then  mask  it  over  with  apricot  marma- 
lade (No.  3675).  At  the  last  moment  unmold  the  pyramid  on  this  and  let  it  stand  till  quite  cold, 
then  cover  quickly  with  a  bavarois  preparation  (No.  3135)  flavored  with  lemon  peel  and  vanilla 
and  thickened  on  ice  when  needed.  Unmold  the  small  "pains"  and  dress  them  at  once  around 
the  cream. 

(S198X  PEACHES  A  LA  LOUVOISIENNE  (Peches  k  la  Louvoisienne). 

Fill  a  border  mold  (Fig.  139)  with  raspberry  jelly  (No.  3183)  tinted  with  a  little  carmine,  having 
it  rather  firmer  than  usual.  After  the  jelly  is  well  set  unmold  the  border  on  a  cold  dish  and  place 
a  pad  of  biscuit  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  in  the  center.  On  this  dress  a  dome  of  fine  halved 
peaches  and  cover  these  with  a  layer  of  cold  cream  rice  with  vanilla  (No.  160).  Dress  a  circle  of 
greengages  around  the  rice  and  decorate  the  top  with  quartered  peaches,  some  cherries  (demi-sucre) 
and  lozenges  of  angelica;  surround  the  base  with  a  row  of  croutons  made  of  blanc-mange  (No. 
3138)  and  red  jelly  alternated,  each  being  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 

(3199).  APPLE  PIE  (Tarte  aux  Pommes). 

Butter  a  tin  plate  and  lay  on  it  a  flat  of  short  paste  (No.  135)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick; 
dampen  the  edges  lightly  and  lay  all  around  a  band  of  puff  paste  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick 
and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide.  Cut  four  medium  apples  in  four;  peel,  suppress  the  cores  and 


924  THE    EPICUREAN. 

pips  and  mince  them  up;  put  them  in  a  vessel,  adding  two  spoonfuls  of  apple  marmalade  (No. 
3674),  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon;  stir  all  together  and  pour 
them  into  the  plate,  dressing  the  apples  in  a  dome  form;  wet  the  edges  of  the  pie  and  cover  over 
with  a  flat  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  pie. 
Fasten  both  pastes  together,  cut  away  all  the  surplus  and  pinch  the  edges  all  around;  egg 
over  and  trace  a  rosette  on  top  with  a  small  kitchen  knife,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour  to  one  hour  or  even  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the 
apples  and  the  heat  of  the  oven. 

(3200).  COOOANUT  PIE  (Tarte  a  la  Noix  de  Coco), 

Take  a  deep  tin  pie  plate  and  line  it  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  raise  up  the  edges,  pinch 
all  around  and  leave  stand  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  cool  piace.  Put  in  a  vessel  four  whole  eggs, 
four  ounces  of  sugar  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon;  stir  well  together.  Increase  the  quantity  of  this 
mixture  with  a  pint  of  milk  and  strain  through  a  fine  strainer;  spread  on  the  bottom  of  the  pie 
crust  a  layer  of  grated  cocoanut  and  fill  half  full  with  the  above  preparation;  push  the  pie  cau- 
tiously into  the  oven,  not  to  upset  any  of  the  liquid,  keeping  it  very  plumb,  and  when  in  the  oven 
finish  filling  with  more  of  the  preparation,  using  a  dipper  for  this  purpose.  Cook  forty  to  fifty 
minutes. 

(3201).  OEEAM  PIE  (Tarte  &  la  Oreme). 

Line  a  tin  pie  plate  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  raise  up  and  pinch  the  edges;  leave  rest  in 
a  cool  place,  then  cover  the  inside  surface  with  buttered  paper  and  fill  with  dry  cherry  pips  or  raw 
rice;  partly  cook  the  crust  and  empty  out  at  once.  Pour  in  a  vessel  four  ounces  of  sugar,  two  and 
a  half  ounces  of  flour  and  three  eggs;  beat  thoroughly,  dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  having  a 
vanilla  stick  infused  therein;  transfer  this  preparation  to  a  saucepan,  thicken  it  over  the  fire  and 
as  soon  as  it  begins  to  acquire  consistency  pour  it  into  the  crust  and  push  into  a  slack  oven  to  finish 
cooking. 

(3202).  LEMON  CUSTAED  PIE,  VENETIAN  STYLE  (Tarte  de  Venise  a  la  Oreme  au  Citron). 

Line  a  deep  tin  pie  plate  with  foundation  paste  (No.  135),  operating  the  same  as  for  cocoanut 
pie,  and  let  it  set.  Put  three  whole  eggs  and  three  separate  yolks  into  a  vessel,  stir  in  three  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar  and  an  ounce  of  lemon  sugar;  dilute  with  a  pint  of  milk  and  strain  the  whole 
through  a  fine  strainer.  Fill  the  pie  crust  three-quarters  full  with  this,  push  carefully  into  the 
oven  and  finish  filling  with  a  dipper.  Cook  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes. 

(3203).  PUMPKIN  PIE  (Tarte  aux  Courges), 

Cut  one  pound  of  very  ripe  pumpkin  into  slices;  suppress  the  seeds  and  peel;  cut  it  up  into  dice 
and  put  these  pieces  in  a  saucepan  with  some  water  to  cook  over  a  brisk  fire;  then  drain  and  press 
the  pulp  through  a  sieve.  Pour  this  into  a  vessel,  add  to  it  four  eggs,  a  pinch  of  ginger,  a  pinch  of 
cinnamon,  a  small  pinch  of  nutmeg,  one  ounce  of  melted -butter,  a  half  pint  of  milk,  and  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar;  stir  well.  Use  this  preparation  for  filling  three-quarters  full  a  pie  plate  lined  the 
same  as  for  a  cocoanut  pie  (No.  3200);  push  it  carefully  into  a  hot  oven  and  finish  filling  with  a  dipper. 
Cook  forty  to  fifty  minutes. 

(3204).  KHUBAEB  PIE  AND  EHUBAEB  WITH  OEEAM  (Tarte  a  la  Ehubarbe  et  Ehubarbe  k  la 

Oreme). 

Take  very  ripe  rhubarb,  suppress  the  leaves,  peel  and  cut  into  pieces  one  inch  long;  arrange 
them  in  layers  with  sugar  between  each  on  a  tin  pie  plate  lined  with  short  paste  (No.  135),  so  as  to 
form  a  dome.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the  paste  on  the  plate  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  flat  of  puff 
paste  (No.  146)  the  same  diameter  as  the  plate,  fastening  it  firmly  to  the  moistened  under  edge,  then 
pare  off  all  the  paste  beyond  the  border,  gash  it  all  around  with  a  small  knife,  egg  the  surface  and 
trace  a  rosette  on  top  with  the  tip  of  a  knife.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  forty-five  minutes. 

Rhubarb  with  Cream. — Choose  some  very  green  rhubarb,  suppress  the  leaves  and  hard  parts 
near  the  roots,  peel  and  cut  in  half-inch  squares.  Put  one  pound  of  this  prepared  rhubarb  in  a 
copper  pan  with  a  little  water,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon  and  a  sliced  lemon.  Put  the  pan  on  the 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  a25 

fire,  and  when  sufficiently  cooked  sweeten  it  according  to  taste.  Remove  from  the  fire,  allow  to 
cool  slightly,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch  or  fecula,  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water;  put 
back  on  the  fire  to  thicken  it,  take  out  the  slices  of  lemon  and  the  cinnamon.  Pour  the  rhubarb 
in  mousseline  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  138),  allow  to  cool  and  unmold;  or  it  may  be  served  in  a  dish. 
Serve  separately  some  sweet  cream  or  else  incorporate  into  it  an  equal  quantity  of  whipped  cream. 

(3205),  BOISSY  PUDDING  (Feuding  Boissy). 

Dilute  four  ounces  of  corn  starch  in  a  bowl  with  three  gills  of  cold  milk;  on  this  pour  a  quart 
of  boiling  milk  sweetened  with  six  ounces  of  sugar;  turn  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on 
the  fire  to  stir  until  well  thickened;  take  it  off  and  incorporate  into  it  quickly  one  gill  of  kirsch, 
the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  asalpicon  of  preserved  fruits  cut  in  dice,  such  as  pears,  pineapple,  green 
almonds,  and  cherries  cut  in  two,  besides  a  few  seeded  Malaga  raisins  and  six  stiffly  beaten  fresh 
egg-whites.  As  soon  as  the  preparation  is  sufficiently  mixed  pour  it  into  a  plain  tiinbale  mold 
oiled  over  with  sweet  almond  oil,  and  leave  it  to  harden  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
When  prepared  to  serve  invert  the  pudding  on  a  cold  dish;  cover  with  raspberry  sauce  (No.  3217), 
serving  more  of  it  apart. 

(3206).  CASTELLANE  PUDDING  (Ponding  Oastellane). 

Prepare  a  fine  puree  of  chestnuts,  the  same  as  for  bavarois  with  chestnuts  (No.  3136);  also 
prepare  an  English  vanilla  cream  (No.  42),  with  eight  egg-yolks,  a  quart  of  milk,  four  ounces  of 
sugar  and  half  a  split  vanilla  bean.  As  soon  as  the  cream  is  done  stir  into  it  the  puree  of  chest- 
nuts, also  two  ounces  of  dissolved  gelatine;  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  into  a  vessel 
and  place  it  on  the  ice  to  get  cold,  working  it  well  until  it  begins  to  stiffen.  Prepare  a  salpicon 
of  chestnuts  and  candied  pineapple  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  dice,  cherries  (derni-sucre)  cut  in 
four,  and  macaroons  also  cut  in  four;  pour  a  little  maraschino  over.  Incrust  atimbale  mold  on  ice, 
pour  into  it  a  layer  of  the  preparation,  then  the  fruits  and  continue  to  alternate  until  the  mold  is  full. 
Just  when  ready  to  serve  dip  the  mold  quickly  into  hot  water  and  invert  the  pudding  on  a  cold  dish 
and  pour  over  a  syrup  made  of  chestnuts  with  vanilla  flavoring,  into  which  has  been  added  a  few 
chestnuts  cut  in  dice.  Serve  some  of  this  syrup  apart. 

(3207).  HAEEISON  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Harrison). 

Have  some  half-set  sweet  jelly  (No.  106)  and  with  a  camel's  hair  brush  wet  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  a  plain  and  very  cold  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150);  bestrew  the  inside  with  peeled  and 
chopped  pistachios,  pressing  them  so  that  they  form  a  compact  layer,  then  turn  the  mold  on  ice 
for  two  or  three  minutes;  incrust  it  upright.  Put  into  a  small  basin  about  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  blanc-mange  preparation  (No.  3138)  of  a  proper  consistency  and  flavored  with  orange  peel;  stir 
it  on  ice  to  harden,  then  incorporate  slowly  into  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  cream  but  slightly 
sweetened.  Two  minutes  after  fill  up  the  cold  mold  with  this  in  layers  intermingled  with  macaroons 
soaked  in  kirsch;  freeze  the  mold  for  one  hour  longer  in  unsalted  ice,  then  dip  it  in  hot  water  and 
unmold  the  contents  on  a  very  cold  dish. 

(3208).  LAFAYETTE  PUDDING  (Pouding  Lafayette). 

Prepare  a  little  meringue  preparation  (No.  140)  with  six  egg-whites;  divide  it  in  two  and  flavor 
one  of  them  with  orange,  having  it  slightly  colored  with  a  little  carmine,  and  the  other  flavored 
with  vanilla.  Distribute  these  two  preparations  into  small  parts  the  size  of  a  pigeon's  egg,  and 
poach  them  in  milk  the  same  as  snow  eggs  (No.  3163);  drain  them  at  once  on  a  cloth.  Have  a 
cupola-shaped  mold  incrusted  in  ice,  pour  into  the  bottom  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  flavored  with 
rum  and  mixed  with  a  little  gelatine,  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream;  let  it  get 
hard,  then  dress  on  it  a  layer  of  the  poached  eggs,  alternating  the  two  colors,  and  strew  over  some 
shredded  pistachios;  pour  another  layer  of  cream  on  top,  then  more  eggs  and  pistachios,  and  so  on 
until  the  mold  is  entirely  full.  Let  the  pudding  harden  in  the  ice-box  for  two  hours;  serve  with  a 
bowl  of  sweetened  strawberry  pulp  flavored  with  maraschino. 

(3209).  MINISTEEIAL  PUDDING  (Pouding  Minist6riel). 

Wash  in  hot  water  one  pound  of  cherries  (demi-sucre)  and  lay  them  to  marinate  for  one  hour 
in  a  light  syrup  well  flavored  with  kirsch.  Make  a  bavarois  preparation  with  vanilla  (No.  3135), 
only  using  a  little  less  whipped  cream  than  usual;  add  to  it  a  few  tablespoon fuls  of  kirsch.  Have 
a  cylindrical  timbale  mold  incrusted  in  ice;  pour  a  layer  of  the  preparation  into  the  bottom,  and 


926  TFLE    EPICUREAN. 

on  this  scatter  some  of  the  cherries;  when  hard  pour  in  another  layer  and  more  cherries,  con- 
tinuing the  process  until  the  mold  is  full.  Then  cover  it  with  a  round  sheet  of  paper  and  a  lid 
covered  with  ice,  and  leave  till  entirely  hard.  At  the  last  moment  unmold  the  pudding  and  sur- 
round the  base  with  a  circle  of  fine  cherries  (demi-sucre)  previously  marinated  in  kirsch.  Serve 
a  sauce-boat  of  whipped  cream  with  vanilla  and  kirsch  at  the  same  time  as  the  pudding. 

(3210).  RENAISSANCE  PUDDING  (Ponding  Eenaissance). 

Put  ten  egg-yolks  into  a  vessel,  beat  them  well  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  dilute  with  a 
quart  of  boiling  milk,  into  which  a  split  vanilla  bean  has  been  infused;  stir  well,  and  thicken  on 
the  fire.  As  soon  as  the  preparation  is  done  remove  from  the  range,  suppress  the  vanilla,  and  add 
three  gelatine  leaves  softened  in  cold  water;  beat  it  from  time  to  time  until  the  gelatine  is  entirely 
dissolved,  and  then  pass  the  preparation  through  a  fine  strainer  into  a  vessel  and  leave  to  cool 
slightly.  Have  prepared  a  preserved  fruit  macedoine  cut  in  small  dice,  such  as  apricots,  pears, 
plums,  pineapple  and  cherries  (demi  sucre),  and  pour  some  maraschino  over.  Also  prepare  a  few 
chestnuts  cut  in  quarters,  and  steep  them  in  maraschino.  Put  atimbale  mold  on  chopped  ice,  place 
in  it  a  layer  of  the  preparation  and  leave  it  to  set.  Then  scatter  the  fruits  and  chestnuts  on  it; 
also  some  lady  fingers  soaked  in  maraschino;  over  these  pour  another  layer  of  the  preparation, 
and  continue  in  this  manner  until  the  mold  is  full.  Leave  it  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  and 
just  when  ready  to  serve  dip  it  hastily  in  hot  water,  and  invert  the  pudding  on  a  cold  dish;  pour 
a  cold  English  vanilla  cream  sauce  (No.  42)  over,  serving  some  of  it  separately. 


(3211).  VALOIS  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Valois). 

Make  a  Neapolitan  cake  paste  (No.  3250),  and  roll  it  out  with  a  rolling  pin  to  the  thickness  of 
an  eighth  of  an  inch;  cut  from  this  sixty  rounds,  each  an  inch  in  diameter;  lay  them  on  a  baking 
sheet  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven.  Also  have  prepared  at  the  same  time  a  salpicon  of  preserved 
fruits  composed  of  greengages,  dates  and  pineapple,  the  whole  cut  in  dice,  and  some  cherries  (demi- 
sucre).  Prepare  also  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  with  twelve  egg-yolks,  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  a 
pint  of  cream  and  a  pint  of  milk.  A.S  soon  as  finished  add  to  it  three  gelatine  leaves  previously 
softened  in  cold  water  and  stir  the  preparation  until  the  gelatine  is  thoroughly  dissolved.  Then  add 
to  it  six  ounces  of  roasted  hazel-nuts  pounded  with  a  gill  of  milk;  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine 
sieve  into  a  tinned  basin,  and  leave  it  on  ice  to  cool  partly.  Incrust  a  timbale  mold  in  chopped 
ice,  pour  on  the  bottom  a  layer  of  the  preparation,  leave  it  to  set,  and  on  it  scatter  the  fruits;  over 
this  pour  another  layer  of  the  cream,  then  on  top  arrange  a  bed  of  the  round  cakes,  afterward  more 
cream,  and  then  more  fruits,  continuing  the  process  until  the  mold  is  entirely  full.  Leave  the  pud- 
ding on  ice  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Serve  with  a  cold  English  vanilla  cream  sauce  (No.  42). 


(3212).  PYRAMID  OP  MERINGUES  (Buisson  de  Meringues). 

Meringues  make  a  delicious  dessert.  They  should  be  small  but  of  even  size  and  specially  of  a 
beautiful  golden  color;  besides  they  must  be  exceedingly  dry.  Select  about  twenty  of  the  prettiest 
cold  shells;  use  a  small  spoon  to  fill  them  with  good  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  sweetened  with  vanilla 
sugar  (No.  3165);  fasten  these  shells,  two  by  two  together,  and  keep  them  for  two  hours  in  a  cool 
place  before  dressing  them  in  a  pyramid  on  a  napkin. 


(3213).  RICE  MIRABEAU  (Riz  a  la  Mirabean). 

Boil  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  rice  in  water  acidulated  with  the  juice  of  a  few  lemons,  keep- 
ing the  grains  whole,  then  drain  and  macerate  in  a  maraschino  syrup.  Prepare  a  fine  salpicon  of 
preserved  fruits  cut  in  dice,  having  pineapple,  apricot,  pears  and  citron  cut  up  very  fine,  cherries 
divided  in  two  and  shredded  pistachios;  on  these  pour  four  tablespoon fuls  of  maraschino,  four  of 
brandy,  four  of  Curacoa,  and  four  of  almond  milk  (No.  4);  leave  the  whole  to  steep  for  one  hour; 
throw  over  two  ounces  of  gelatine  that  has  been  dissolved  in  a  little  water.  As  soon  as  this  prepa- 
ration begins  to  thicken  stir  the  rice  into  it  and  transfer  the  whole  to  a  plain  timbale  mold,  and  let 
harden  in  the  ice-box  for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve  unmold  on  a  cold  dish,  and  cover  with 
a  raspberry  sauce  (No.  3217). 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  92? 

(3214).  EICE  WITH  APRICOTS  (Biz  aux  Abricots). 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice;  cook  it  till  tender  in  milk  with  vanilla  and  when  cooked  remove 
it  from  the  fire,  sweeten  it,  add  raw  cream  and  fresh  butter  and  pour  it  into  another  saucepan  to  let 
get  cold,  stirring  from  time  to  time.  Place  the  preparation  on  ice  and  incorporate  slowly  into  it 
one  pint  of  whipped  cream.  When  well  stirred  in  dress  it  in  layers  in  a  souffle  pan  (Fig.  182)  in- 
crusted  in  ice,  covering  each  layer  with  one  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  smooth  it  dome- 
shaped  and  decorate  the  summit  with  candied  pineapple  cut  in  pieces. 

(3215).  KICE  WITH  OEEAM  AND  RASPBERRIES  (Biz  a  la  Oreme  Framboise"). 
Cook  about  a  pound  of  rice  with  cream,  not  having  it  too  sweet,  and  finish  with  two  gills  of 
almond  milk  (No.  4).  When  cold  set  it  into  a  small  thin  tin  vessel  and  incorporate  slowly  about 
two  gills  of  syrup,  flavored  with  lemon  peel  and  mingled  with  half  as  much  calf's  foot  jelly, 
sweetened  and  clarified  (No.  104).  Incrust  a  dome-shaped  mold  wider  than  its  height  in  lightly 
salted  pounded  ice  and  put  in  a  one-inch  layer  of  thick  clear  jelly  with  raspberry  juice  at  the  bot- 


FIG.  594. 

torn,  and  let  it  settle;  as  soon  as  it  is  hard  lay  another  tin  mold  of  the  same  shape,  but  narrower, 
on  top  of  it,  filling  it  up  with  pounded  ice;  pour  a  little  of  the  same  warm  jelly  between  the 
two  molds  to  fill  up  the  entire  vacancy  and  let  it  harden.  Then  remove  the  ice  from  the  smaller 
mold  and  replace  it  by  warm  water  so  that  it  can  be  easily  removed.  Fill  the  center  of  the  mold 
at  once  with  the  rice  cream  preparation  (No.  160)  thickened  on  ice  and  mixed  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
whipped  cream  and  a  salpicon  composed  of  shredded  pistachios,  candied  pineapple  and  half- 
sweetened  cherries;  cover  the  preparation  with  a  layer  of  jelly  and  close  the  mold  with  a  deep 
cover,  on  which  lay  pounded  ice.  Keep  it  for  forty  minutes  longer  on  ice  and  finally  remove  the 
mold,  wash  it  quickly  in  warm  water  and  invert  its  contents  on  a  cold  dish.  Fasten  on  the  sum- 
mit an  almond  paste  ornament  fixed  on  by  a  hatelet  garnished  with  fruits. 

(3216).  RICE  WITH  STRAWBERRIES  (Riz  aux  Praises). 

Wash  half  a  pound  of  Carolina  rice;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  the  juice 
of  two  lemons;  cook  till  tender,  keeping  the  grains  whole,  and  when  done  drain  on  a  sieve,  pour  it 
into  a  vessel  and  cover  with  a  hot  syrup  of  twenty-eight  degrees,  adding  some  orange  and  lemon 
peel;  leave  till  cold.  At  the  last  moment  lift  up  the  rice  with  a  skimmer  and  dress  it  in  a  deep 
dish  in  layers  alternated  with  small  fresh  strawberries.  Pour  a  thick  syrup  over  the  whole. 

(3217).  SAUCES  FOR  COLD  ENTREMETS  (Sauces  Pour  Entremets  Froids). 

The  sauces  for  cold  desserts  are  cold  English  cream  (No.  42),  flavored  with  vanilla,  lemon  or 
orange  peel  or  with  liquor.  Sweetened  whipped  cream  also  flavored  with  vanilla,  liquors  or  fresh 
fruit  juices.  Fine  purees  of  fresh  fruits  sweetened  with  icing  sugar;  these  can  also  be  flavored 
with  liquors. 

(3218).  SUEDOISE  OF  APPLES  AND  PEARS  (Suedoise  de  Pommes  et  de  Poires). 

Peel  as  many  large  apples  as  pears  and  with  a  tin  tube  take  from  them  small  sticks  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  long  by  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  cook  the  apple  sticks  in  a  clear  syrup 
and  the  pear  ones  in  a  syrup  colored  with  carmine,  being  careful  to  keep  them  all  rather  firm;  leave 


928  THE    EPICUREAN. 

to  cool  off  in  their  syrup  and  then  drain  and  wipe.  Coat  a  plain  timbale  mold  with  jelly,  incrust  it 
well  in  ice,  take  up  the  pear  and  apple  sticks  one  by  one  and  dip  them  in  half-set  jelly,  then 
arrange  them  against  the  sides  of  the  mold;  on  the  first  row  lay  another  and  so  on  until  the  mold 
is  completely  lined.  Then  fill  it  with  an  apple  "  pain  "  preparation,  made  as  explained  in  No.  3194, 
substituting  apples  for  apricots,  and  flavor  with  vanilla,  incorporating  into  it  a  salpicon  of  pre- 
served fruits  cut  in  dice,  selecting  for  this  purpose,  pineapples,  apricots,  pears  and  cherries  cut  in 
two;  let  the  Sue'doise  harden  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When  ready  to  serve  dip  the  mold 
hastily  in  hot  water,  unmold  on  a  cold  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  small  ribboned  jelly  crou- 
tons (No.  3198). 

(3219).  SURPRISE  OP  FRUITS,  FROTHY  SAUCE  (Surprise  anx  Fruits,  Sauce  Mousseuse). 

Butter  a  charlotte  mold  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  either  baba  paste  (No.  129)  or  plain 
Savarin  paste  (No.  148);  let  it  rise  as  high  as  the  top  in  a  mild  temperature;  bake  the  cake  in  a 
moderate  oven  and  five  minutes  after  it  has  been  taken  from  the  oven  pare  the  top  off  straight, 
then  turn  it  over  on  a  pastry  grate  and  soak  it  with  a  syrup  flavored  with  lemon  and  maraschino. 
When  the  cake  is  thoroughly  cold  return  it  to  the  mold  and  slice  off  the  bottom  so  as  to  be  able 
to  empty  it  out,  leaving  only  a  thickness  of  five-eighths  of  an  inch  at  the  top  and  sides;  fill  this 
hollow  space  with  layers  of  small  strawberries  and  pour  over  them  a  cooked  Italian  meringue  (No. 
140)  flavored  with  cold  burned  punch.  Close  the  opening  on  the  cake  with  the  removed  slice 
and  invert  it  on  a  cold  dish,  covering  it  over  with  a  frothy  sauce  prepared  as  follows: 

Frothy  Sauce. — Pour  into  a  tin  basin  three  gills  of  English  cream  flavored  either  with  vanilla 
or  lemon  (No.  42),  having  it  slightly  consistent  and  cold;  beat  it  up  vigorously  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  on  ice  and  when  light  and  frothy  add  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  firm  and  well-drained  whipped 
cream  mixed  in  with  a  spoon. 

(3220).  OONDE  TART  (Tarte  a  la  Oonda 

Spread  a  thin  flat  of  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  or  half  puff  paste  (No.  146)  on  a  baking 
sheet;  cut  it  into  a  round  and  cover  the  surface  within  an  inch  and  a  quarter  from  the  edge  with 
a  layer  of  vanilla  frangipane  (No.  44);  wet  the  borders  of  the  flat  and  cover  entirely  with  another 
thin  one  of  fine  puff  paste;  press  the  edges  with  the  fingers  and  scallop  out  with  the  tip  of  a  small 
knife,  then  cover  the  surface  with  a  Conde1  preparation  (No.  2)  made  of  chopped  almonds,  powdered 
sugar  and  egg-whites;  besprinkle  over  with  fine  sugar  and  cook  the  tart  in  a  slack  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

(3221).  MASSILLON  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  la  Massillon). 

With  some  icing  sugar,  applied  with  a  brush,  coat  over  the  inside  of  a  charlotte  mold,  having 
it  wider  than  its  height;  line  it  with  marchpane  paste  (No.  139),  not  too  thin,  then  dry  this  fora  few 
hours  in  a  mild  temperature,  and  finally  apricot  over  the  insides.  Take  some  almond  biscuit  (No. 
3229),  some  vanilla  Savoy  biscuit  (No.  3231)  and  some  Genoese  biscuit  (No.  3239)  flavored  with 
lemon  and  rum;  cut  them  up  in  uniform  dice  pieces  and  put  them  in  a  vessel,  mingling  in  half  a 
pound  of  candied  pineapple  cut  in  small  bits,  and  adding  a  few  spoonfuls  of  light  apricot  marma- 
lade (No.  3675)  in  such  a  way  that  the  whole  becomes  well  mixed.  Fill  the  empty  lined  mold  with 
this  and  pour  over  a  bavarois  cream  preparation  (No.  3135),  mixed  with  a  little  gelatine,  and  keep 
it  on  ice  for  half  an  hour.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  unmold  on  a  cold  dish  and  pour  slowly  over 
the  biscuit  a  vanilla  ice  cream  preparation  (No.  3458),  mixed  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream,  then  close  the  top  with  a  layer  of  massepain  (No.  3392)  fastening  it  well  to  the  edges. 
Unmold  the  timbale  on  a  cold  dish,  cover  the  outside  with  fine  apricot  marmalade  applied  with 
a  brush,  and  decorate  the  sides  and  top  with  fanciful  pieces  of  candied  fruits  prepared  beforehand 
for  this  purpose.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  a  layer  of  the  same  ice  cream  preparation  and 
serve  at  once. 

(3222).  TIMBALE  OF  WAFFLES  (Timbale  de  Gaufres). 

Pound  ten  ounces  of  shelled  and  skinned  almonds  with  one  pound  of  sugar  and  sufficient  egg- 
white  to  form  it  into  a  fine  soft  paste.  Put  this  into  a  vessel  and  incorporate  half  a  pound  of 
flour;  dilute  with  eight  lightly  beaten  egg-yolk?.  With  a  part  of  this  paste  lay  on  a  waxed  baking 
sheet  a  band  four  and  a  half  inches  wide  by  sixteen  inches  long,  and  bake  it  to  a  fine  color;  as  soon 
as  done  pare  the  edges  straight  and  bend  it  around  a  timbale  mold;  fasten  the  two  ends  well  with 
cooked  sugar,  and  leave  till  cold.  Add  to  the  remainder  of  the  paste  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream,  and  with  it  arrange  on  waxed  baking  sheets  about  forty  very  thin  and  even  waffles,  each 


SWEET    ENTREMETS.  929 

five  inches  in  diameter,  and  cook  them  to  a  fine  color  in  a  brisk  oven;  as  soon  as  done  roll  them  on  a 
small  roller  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  When  all  the  waffles  are  cooked  and  rolled 
up  dip  one  end  of  them  one  by  one  into  royal  icing  (No.  101),  then  into  finely  chopped  pistachios, 
and  lay  them  on  a  grate  and  dry  the  icing  in  a  heater.  After  this  is  accomplished  fasten  them  all 
around  the  waffle  timbale,  close  to  each  other,  having  the  pistachio  ends  uppermost,  and  attach 
them  in  position  with  cooked  sugar;  set  this  timbale  on  a  waffle  paste  foundation  dredged  over 
with  pink  sugar  (No.  172).  Decorate  the  base  with  small  one-inch  diameter  meringues  filled  with 
bavarois  cream  (No.  3133).  When  prepared  to  serve  slip  it  on  a  dish  and  fill  it  with  a  light 
chocolate  bavarois  (No.  3131). 

(3223).  WAFFLES  BRISSELETS  WITH  RASPBERRY   CREAM  (Gaufres  Brisselets  a  la  Oreme 

Framboise'e). 

Arrange  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table;  in  the  center  place  four  ounces  of 
butter,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  a  piece  of  hartshorn  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut  and  powdered  very  fine. 
Dilute  the  whole  with  half  milk  and  half  cream  to  have  it  the  consistency  of  a  Milan  paste,  only 
slightly  softer;  roll  out  in  the  shape  of  strings  and  cut  each  one  of  these  into  small  pieces,  then  mold 
them  into  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Heat  some  flat  round  waffle  irons,  butter 
lightly  with  clarified  butter  and  when  hot  open  and  place  one  of  the  balls  in  the  center,  close  the 
irons  and  cook  to  a  fine  golden  color  on  both  sides;  as  soon  as  this  is  accomplished  remove  and  roll 
them  quickly  around  rolling  pins  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  leave  till  cold.  Just 
when  ready  to  serve  fill  by  means  of  a  cornet  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  raspberry  and 
dress  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin. 

(3224).  WAFERS  WITH  OURAgOA  CREAM-ROLLED  (Gaufres  Routes  a  la  Creme  aii 

Curapoa). 

Have  in  a  vessel  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  six  ounces  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  corn 
starch,  two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  ten  lightly  beaten  egg-whites  and  a  pint  of  whipped  cream; 
make  with  this  a  smooth  paste,  adding  a  little  vanilla  flavoring  and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy. 
Heat  on  a  slow  fire  some  flat  waffle-irons,  butter  them  with  a  pad  dipped  in  clarified  butter,  and 
when  hot  cover  one  side  with  a  spoonful  of  the  paste;  close  the  irons  and  cook  the  waffles  on  both 
sides;  after  they  are  done  roll  them  on  three-quarter-inch  in  diameter  rollers;  remove  from  these 
and  leave  till  cold.  Serve  dressed  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  napkin  and  fill  them  all 
by  means  of  a  cornet  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  a  little  Curayoa. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


(Patisserie). 


LARGE  CAKES  FOR  ENTEEMETS  (Gros  Gateaux  pour  Entremets), 


(3225).  ALMOND  CAKE  (Gateau  d'Amandes). 

From  some  parings  of  puff  paste  roll  out  a  round  flat  twelve  inches  in  diameter  and  three-six- 
teenths of  an  inch  in  thickness;  lay  it  on  a  slightly  dampened  tart  plate;  cover  this  flat  with  an 
even  layer  of  almond  cream  (No.  40)  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  placed  half  an  inch  inside  the 
border;  moisten  the  edge  lightly  and  cover  over  with  another  layer  of  the  paste  of  the  same  diameter 
and  thickness  as  the  lower  one,  only  making  it  of  puff  paste  prepared  to  six  turns  (No.  146);  press 
the  edges  well  to  attach  the  two  flats  together,  and  scallop  this  border  with  a  small  knife;  egg  the 
top,  decorate  it  by  making  incisions  in  the  shape  of  a  rosette  with  the  tip  of  a  kitchen  knife,  then 
push  the  cake  into  a  brisk  oven  to  bake.  As  soon  as  done  remove  to  the  oven  door,  bestrew 
lightly  with  powdered  sugar  and  return  it  again  to  the  the  oven  to  have  the  top  well  glazed. 


(3226).  ANGEL  OAKE  (Gateau  des  Anges). 

Pour  twenty  egg-whites  into  a  basin  and  whip  them  till  quite  firm;  at  once  add  ten  ounces  of 
sugar,  part  of  it  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165),  and  continue  whipping  the  whole  until  quite 
smooth,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  flour  into  which  has  been  mixed  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  and  sifted  several  times  through  a  sieve;  mix  all  together  lightly  till  smooth.  With  this 
preparation  fill  some  angel  cake  molds,  eight  to  nine  inches  in  diameter,  three-quarters  full;  these 
should  be  quite  dry.  without  any  buttering.  Push  the  cakes  into  a  very  slack  oven  to  cook  for  forty 
to  fifty  minutes,  then  take  them  out  and  keep  them  in  their  molds  for  two  hours;  now  pass  a  small 
kitchen  knife  between  the  pan  and  the  cake,  knock  the  edges  of  the  former  gently  on  the  table  to 
detach  the  cake  and  turn  it  on  a  grate;  pare  the  tops  very  straight,  ice  with  royal  icing  (No.  101) 
and  dress  on  a  lace-paper-covered  board  or  dish;  after  the  icing  is  dry  decorate  with  more  of  the 
royal  icing. 

(931) 


932  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3227).  BABA  SYEUPED  OE  ICED  (Baba  au  Sirop  ou  Glacfi), 

With  some  baba  paste  (No.  129)  fill  a  well-buttered  baba  mold  three-quarters  full;  stand  this 
in  a  moderately  heated  place,  cover  and  leave  until  the  paste  has  reached  to  the  upper  edges  of  the 
mold,  then  set  it  on  a  pie  plate  in  a  slow  oven  to  bake;  this  operation  ought  to  take  from  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half;  as  soon  as  baked  cut  away  any  surplus  paste  overreaching 
the  top  and  invert  the  baba  on  a  grate.  Prepare  a  thirty-two  degree  hot  syrup  flavored  with  good 
rum;  soak  the  baba  with  this,  applying  it  with  a  brush,  and  let  drain  well.  It  can  be  served  sim- 
ply soaked  with  this  syrup  or  else  iced  with  a  light  layer  of  water  icing  (No.  102)  or  fondant  (No. 
58)  well  flavored  with  rum.  After  the  icing  has  dried  remove  the  baba  carefully  from  the  grate 
and  lay  it  on  a  dish;  should  it  be  iced  decorate  the  icing  with  angelica  lozenges,  halved  cherries 
and  cuts  of  orange  peels,  surrounding  the  base  with  a  circle  of  marchpane  in  small  cases;  serve. 

(3228).  BISCUIT  A  LA  HEENANI  (Biscuit  a  la  Hernani). 

Bake  a  Savoy  biscuit  in  a  dome-formed  mold  eight  inches  in  diameter  by  four  inches  high. 
Turn  it  out  and  let  stand  till  cold,  then  put  it  back  again  in  the  mold  and  pare  it  straight;  cut 
around  the  top  at  about  two  inches  from  the  bottom  a  cover  by  means  of  a  small  knife  held  on  a 
slant,  to  have  the  cut  form  a  bevel  (this  is  to  prevent  the  cover  falling  in  the  biscuit),  and  empty  it, 
leaving  the  outer  crust  only  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  Place  it  on  a  grate  with  its  cover  on  and 
cover  with  reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  glaze  with  fondant  (No.  58).  to  which  melted 
chocolate  is  added.  At  serving  time  fill  the  empty  biscuit  with  whipped  cream,  into  which  mix  a 
few  chocolate  pastilles,  some  finely  shredded  pistachios  and  a  few  preserved  cherries  cut  in  two. 
Lay  the  biscuit  on  a  frolle  paste  (No.  136)  foundation,  coated  with  egg  whites,  and  dredged  over 
with  white  granulated  sugar;  slide  the  whole  on  a  cold  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  a  wreath 
of  Africans  (No.  3364)  glazed  with  chocolate. 

(3229).  ALMOND  BISCUIT  (Biscuit  aux  Amandes). 

Beat  one  pound  of  sugar  in  a  basin  with  fifteen  egg-yolks,  obtaining  a  very  light  mixture;  add 
five  ounces  of  sweet  and  one  of  bitter  almonds,  pounded  finely  with  two  egg-whites;  continue  to 
whip  together  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  then  add  five  ounces  of  flour,  five  ounces  of  fecula,  two 
ounces  of  melted  fresh  butter  and  lastly  twelve  stiffly  whipped  egg-whites.  Pour  this  preparation 
into  a  pound  cake  or  "  manque  "  mold  lined  with  paper,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven.  Turn  out  the 
cake  as  soon  as  done,  transferring  it  to  a  grate  to  cool;  mask  the  surface  with  apricot  marmalade 
(No.  3675)  and  ice  with  almond  milk  fondant  (No.  58).  After  this  icing  is  dry  slip  the  cake  on  a 
round  board  covered  with  lace  paper  and  decorate  the  top  with  royal  icing.  Surround  the  base  with 
a  circle  of  fine  large  preserved  cherries  and  lozenges  of  angelica. 

(3230).  MOUSSELINE  BISCUIT  (Biscuit  Mousseline). 

Mix  and  work  eight  egg-yolks  and  two  whole  eggs  in  a  basin  with  one  pound  of  sugar;  when 
quite  light  add  two  ounces  of  orange  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  continue  to  stir  the  preparation  for  a 
few  moments  longer;  add  four  ounces  of  flour  and  four  ounces  of  fecula  and  finally  eight  stiffly 
beaten  egg-whites.  Butter  a  cylindrical  timbale  mold,  glaze  it  with  icing  sugar  and  fecula,  half 
of  each,  then  fill  the  mold  three-quarters  full  with  the  above  composition;  set  it  in  a  very  slack 
oven  and  let  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  As  soon  as  the  biscuit  is  done  unmold  on  a  grate,  leave 
to  cooland  afterward  pare  it  very  straight;  ice  over  with  strawberry  icing  (No.  102)  and  dress  the 
cake  on  a  dish.  Put  into  a  copper  pan  five  spoonfuls  of  strawberry  pulp  and  mix  into  it  sufficient 
orange  sugar  to  form  a  flowing  paste.  Heat  and  when  quite  hot  pour  it  over  five  stiffly  beaten 
egg-whites.  Just  when  serving  fill  the  hollow  in  the  cylindrical  mold  with  this  preparation,  dress- 
ing it  in  the  shape  of  a  dome;  surround  the  base  of  this  cream  with  a  circle  of  preserved  cherries 
and  small  lozenges  of  angelica.  Arrange  around  the  bottom  of  the  cake  some  small  Genoese  cakes 
(N6.  3307)  iced  with  strawberry  and  cut  into  rectangulars. 

(3231).  SAVOY  BISCUIT  (Biscuit  de  Savoie). 

Grease  a  high  biscuit  mold  with  melted  prepared  veal  kidney  suet;  drain  off  any  surplus  fat 
by  reversing  the  mold,  then  glaze  with  sugar  icirg  and  fecula,  half  of  each.  Pour  into  a  vessel  one 
pound  of  powdered  sugar  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165)  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  add  fourteen  egg- yolks 
one  at  a  time  and  beat  the  whole  forcibly  to  have  it  get  quite  frothy;  whip  fourteen  egg-whites 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  put  a  fourth  part  into  the  yolks,  also  six  ounces  of  potato  fecula  and  six  ounces 
of  flour,  the  two  latter  to  be  sifted  together-  As  soon  as  the  whole  is  thoroughly  combined 


JLARGHE   CAKES   FOR-  ENTREMETS.  933 

add  the  remainder  of  the  beaten  whites.  With  this  fill  the  mold  three-quarters  full  and  stand  it 
on  a  baking  pan;  fix  it  so  that  the  mold  will  not  fall;  place  it  carefully  in  the  mildest  spot  in  the 
oven.  In  order  to  bake  this  biscuit  properly  it  is  essential  that  the  oven  be  first  thoroughly  heated, 
then  allowed  to  fall  to  a  mild  temperature;  leave  it  in  for  two  and  a  quarter  to  two  and  a  half 
hours.  When  done  to  perfection  unmold  on  a  grate,  cool,  pare  very  straight  and  dress  on  a  dish; 
surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  lady  bouchees  iced  with  vanilla  (No.  3376) 

(3232).  BRETON  CAKE  (Gateau  Breton). 

Set  in  a  basin  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar,  eighteen  eggs  and  a  small  pinch  of  salt;  beat 
continuously  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes  so  as  to  have  it  very  light,  then  add  six  ounces  of 
almonds,  including  an  ounce  of  bitter  ones,  these  to  be  pounded  very  finely  with  one  egg.  Continue 
the  beating  process  for  a  few  minutes  longer  and  then  mix  in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour 
and  finally  ten  ounces  of  melted  butter.  Distribute  this  preparation  into  a  set  of  six  Breton 
molds,  having  these  buttered  and  floured;  fill  them  up  to  the  top  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven. 
Remove  as  fast  as  they  are  done,  unmold  on  a  grate,  let  cool  and  then  pare  very  straight.  Ice  the 
smallest  as  well  as  the  fourth  one  in  size  with  white  vanilla  fondant  (No.  58);  the  second  and  fifth 
with  pink  strawberry  fondant  and  the  third  and  sixth  with  chocolate  fondant.  Dry  the  icings  well 
then  dress  the  cakes  on  an  office  paste  foundation  in  a  pyramid,  one  on  the  other,  alternating  the 
colors  and  graduating  the  various  sizes.  Fill  the  hollow  formed  in  the  cake  with  Quillet  cream  (No. 
48),  and  decorate  with  more  of  this  pushed  through  a  cornet.  Keep  the  cake  in  a  cool  place  until 
required  for  serving. 

(3233).  CROWN  OF  BRIOCHE  (Oouronne  de  Brioche). 

Put  two  pounds  of  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  that  has  been  sufficiently  raised  and  hardened  on  ice 
on  a  floured  table,  form  it  into  a  ball  and  lay  it  on  a  round  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper;  flatten 
it  slightly  with  the  hands  and  make  a  hole  in  the  center,  spreading  out  the  paste  so  that  it  forms 
into  a  large  ring;  place  it  on  a  baking  dish,  equalize,  egg  and  gash  a  round  inside  of  the  crown 
with  the  tip  of  a  knife,  raising  the  dough;  push  into  a  well-heated  oven  and  bake  for  thirty-five 
minutes.  These  crowns  can  be  made  of  a  smaller  size,  two  ounces  each,  to  be  served  for  breakfast. 

(3234).  LARGE  BRIOCHE  WITH  HEAD-(Grosse  Brioche  &  Tete). 

Have  a  brioche  paste  prepared  the  same  as  described  in  No.  130;  put  this  in  a  vessel  in  a  cool 
place  and  let  it  rise  to  half  its  size  again.  Then  work  it  once  more  and  set  it  in  the  ice-box  for 
two  hours  to  have  it  harden.  Butter  a  tin  mold  six  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  and  eight 
inches  deep;  line  it  with  paper  and  butter  this  over.  Mold  a  four-pound  round-shaped  piece  of  the 
paste,  put  it  in  the  mold,  then  mold  another  pound  piece  and  roll  it  on  the  table  on  one  side  to  give 
it  a  long  pear-form  appearance;  with  dampened  fingers  make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  first  paste 
and  in  it  insert  the  pointed  end  of  the  pear;  leave  the  mold  in  a  moderately  heated  place  to  have 
the  paste  rise  to  the  level  of  the  top,  then  egg  it  over  twice  and  put  in  a  slack  oven  to  cook  for 
two  hours.  Unmold  as  soon  as  done,  allow  to  cool  and  dress  on  a  folded  napkin.  In  case  there  be 
no  mold  at  hand  use  a  cylinder  of  strong  paper  the  same  diameter  as  the  mold. 

(3235).  OHAMOUinX  CAKE  (Gateau  Ohamounix). 

Bake  in  a  slack  oven  a  small  Genoese  preparation  (No.  3239)  placed  in  a  border  mold,  it  hav- 
ing a  round-shaped  bottom  buttered  and  bestrewn  with  chopped  almonds.  After  it  is  taken  from 
the  oven,  cold  and  pared,  brush  the  surface  over  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  lay  it 
on  a  pastry  grate,  then  cover  entirely  with  kirsch  icing  (No.  102),  and  when  this  is  dry  dress  on  a 
dish.  Suppress  the  shells  from  about  a  hundred  chestnuts,  without  touching  the  skins;  boil  them 
slowly  in  plenty  of  water  in  a  covered  vessel,  then  drain  off  the  water,  leaving  them  covered 
with  a  hot  cloth;  now  quickly  remove  the  skins;  pound  and  rub  the  chestnuts  through  a  sieve 
into  a  saucepan  with  three-quarters  of  their  weight  of  powdered  sugar  added,  also  a  small  bit  of 
vanilla;  scir  this  well  over  a  moderate  fire  until  it  detaches  from  the  bottom  and  leave  it  till 
nearly  cold,  then  dilute  with  a  little  light  syrup  and  kirsch;  incorporate  into  the  mixture  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  well-drained  whipped  cream,  but  without  weakening  it,  keeping  it  quite  consistent, 
then  stir  on  ice  for  ten  minutes  to  harden,  adding  a  salpicon  of  vari-colored  fruits  after  it  is 
removed.  With  this  preparation  fill  up  the  hollow  of  the  cake  and  smooth  it  to  a  dome-shape,  then 
decorate  through  a  cornet  with  whipped  cream  slightly  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 


934  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3236).  COMPIEGNE  CAKE  (Gateau  Compiegne). 

Dilute  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  compressed  yeast  in  a  vessel  with  one  gill  of  warm  milk; 
strain,  return  it  to  the  vessel  and  incorporate  five  ounces  of  flour  to  make  a  soft  leaven;  put  this 
on  a  floured  table,  mold  and  replace  it  in  the  vessel  after  cleaning  it  out  well;  cover  over  with  a 
cloth  and  leave  in  a  mild  temperature  to  rise  to  double  its  size.  In  another  vessel  place  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  form  a  hole  in  the  center  and  in  it  lay  an  ounce  of  sugar  and  a  heavy 
pinch  of  salt  (according  to  the  saltiness  of  the  butter),  two  eggs,  eight  yolks  and  six  ounces  of  butter. 
Mix  all  well  together  to  form  into  a  paste,  working  it  forcibly  for  a  few  moments  in  order  to  give  it 
body,  then  add  slowly  one  gill  of  rich  cream;  continue  to  work  the  paste  until  it  has  plenty  of 
body,  then  mix  in  the  leaven  very  lightly,  also  one  pint  of  well-drained  whipped  cream.  Butter  a 
large  plain  cylindrical  mold  (Fig.  150)  seven  inches  in  diameter  by  seven  inches  high;  fill  it  up 
three-quarters  with  the  above  paste  and  leave  it  in  a  mild  temperature  until  quite  full;  stand  it  on 
a  pie  plate  and  push  it  carefully  into  a  very  slack  oven.  It  should  take  an  hour  and  a  half  to  an 
hour  and  three-quarters  to  bake;  take  it  out  as  soon  as  done,  invert  it  on  a  grate  and  let  cool  off. 
Dress  on  a  folded  napkin  to  serve. 

(3237).  FLEUEY  CAKE  (Gateau  Pleury). 

Make  a  biscuit  preparation  with  a  pound  of  sugar,  having  two  ounces  of  it  flavored  with 
vanilla  (No.  3165),  eight  ounces  of  flour  and  four  ounces  of  fecula  sifted  together;  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  roasted  and  pounded  filberts,  twenty-two  egg-yolks,  six  beaten  whites  and  a  grain  of  salt. 
Bake  in  a  slack  oven  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper,  having  it  at  least  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  when  done  put  aside  to  cool  for  twelve  hours.  With  seven  or  eight  egg-yolks,  some  sugar,  six 
gills  of  milk  and  a  piece  of  vanilla,  prepare  an  English  cream  (No.  42) ;  as  soon  as  it  thickens 
remove  and  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  roasted  chopped  filberts,  and  pour  it  at  once  into  a  glazed 
vessel,  working  till  cold;  then  strain  through  a  tammy  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  to  beat  oil  a 


FIG.  595. 

slow  fire  for  two  minutes  to  have  it  lukewarm;  remove  once  more  and  incorporate  into  it,  without 
ceasing  to  stir,  one-half  pound  of  fresh  butter  divided  in  small  pats;  the  cream  should  now  be 
quite  consistent  and  slightly  frothy;  divide  it  into  two  parts,  and  color  one  with  carmine  mixed 
with  a  little  syrup  so  that  it  acquires  a  pinkish  hue,  leaving  the  other  half  white.  Have  a  hexagon 
(six-sided)  shaped  cardboard  pattern  and  with  it  cut  three  or  four  pieces  from  the  prepared  biscuit; 
split  them  through  their  thickness,  mask  them  over  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  recon- 
struct them  as  before;  fasten  these  pieces  on  a  thin  Genoese  bottom  a  third  of  an  inch  wider  than 
the  biscuit,  and  on  this,  with  the  remainder  of  the  biscuit  cut  thin  and  also  masked  with  apricot, 
raise  an  even  pyramid,  cut  hexagonally;  cover  it  as  well  as  its  base  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  butter 
cream.  Koast  in  the  oven  half  a  pound  of  filberts  cut  up  small;  when  removed  besprinkle  with 
fine  sugar,  and  when  nearly  cold  apply  them  in  smooth  layers  against  the  thickness  of  the  base  on 
which  the  pyramid  stands,  pressing  them  down  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  to  equalize  the  sur- 
face, leaving  no  open  space  whatever  between.  Introduce  a  part  of  the  white  cream  into  a  small 
fancy  socket  pocket  (Fig.  179),  and  push  on  the  surfaces  of  the  pyramid  small,  plain,  close  flowers, 
strictly  following  the  divisions  of  the  hexagon;  next  to  these  push  some  pink  flowers,  alternating 
the  shades,  in  the  different  compartments.  When  the  pyramid  is  entirely  covered  push  a  large 
rose  on  top,  having  the  two  colors  mixed,  then  with  a  smaller  socket  surround  the  base  of  the  cake 
with  small  roses  made  of  the  two  colors.  Keep  the  cake  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  ice  to  have  the 
cream  harden  superficially,  and  on  removing  slip  it  carefully  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  at  once,  for 
the  buttered  cream  must  remain  hard. 


LARGE  CAKES  FOR  ENTREMETS. 


935 


(3238).  PEUIT  CAKE  (Gateau  aux  Fruits). 

Proportions. — One  pound  and  a  half  of  butter,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  flour,  twenty  eggs,  four  pounds  of  seeded  Malaga  raisins,  four  pounds  of  Smyrna  raisins, 
four  pounds  of  citron,  ten  pounds  of  currants,  two  gills  of  rum,  two  gills  of  brandy,  four  gills  of 
molasses,  one  ounce  of  cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace  and  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  nutmeg.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  in  a  tinned  basin  until  creamy 
and  white;  adding  the  eggs  one  by  one  add  the  flour  and  mix  perfectly,  then  put  in  the  Malaga  and 
Smyrna  raisins,  the  currants,  the  finely  cut-up  citron  and  the  spices;  afterward  the  liquors  and 
molasses;  work  until  thoroughly  mixed.  For  this  quantity  have  two  very  strong  tin  molds  twelve 
inches  long  at  the  bottom  and  five  inches  wide,  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  splay  on  each  side,  the  depth 
to  be  six  and  a  quarter  inches.  These  molds  must  be  furnished  with  covers  closing  on  the  outside. 
Butter  and  line  them  with  buttered  paper.  Divide  the  preparation  into  two  equal  parts,  one  into 
each  mold;  cover  the  tops  with  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  covers,  then  set  both  molds  on  a 
baking  sheet  and  push  into  a  slack  oven.  They  take  from  six  and  a  half  to  seven  hours  to  bake. 
When  partly  done  turn  the  molds  upside  down  and  finish  cooking;  remove  from  the  oven,  lift  off 
the  covers  and  arrange  them  one  beside  the  other;  lay  blocks  of  wood  on  top,  two  and  a  quarter 
inches  thick  and  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  opening  of  the  mold,  or  even  slightly  narrower, 
so  they  can  enter  the  mold  with  facility.  On  each  block  lay  a  board  and  on  this  a  sufficiently 
heavy  weight  to  allow  these  blocks  to  enter  entirely  inside  the  mold,  leaving  it  in  this  position  for 
twelve  hours  in  a  cool  place.  Unmold  the  cakes  carefully,  wrap  them  in  paper,  and  range  in  a 
hermetically  closed  tin  box.  These  cakes  require  to  be  made  two  months  beforehand,  and  be  left 
tightly  closed  so  they  acquire  the  mellowness  and  flavor  characteristic  of  their  kind.  When  needed 
for  use  remove  from  the  boxes,  take  off  the  paper  adhering  to  the  cakes,  and  cut  each  ona  into 
even  eight  crosswise  slices;  divide  all  of  these  on  the  widest  side  into  five  equal-sized  pieces, 

therefore  obtaining  forty  pieces  from  each  mold;  wrap  each 
one  of  these  small  pieces  in  a  separate  piece  of  waxed  paper, 
then  in  tin  foil,  and  after  all  are  prepared  put  them  into 
small  cardboard  boxes  manufactured  expressly  for  this  pur- 
pose, they  to  be  four  and  three- 
quarter  inches  long  by  an  inch  and 
a  half  wide  and  an  inch  and  an 
eighth  deep;  these  are  the  inside 
measurements;  place  on  the  covers, 
tie  with  a  white  ribbon  once  around 
their  length  and  then  around 
their  width,  forming  it  into  a  pretty 

bow,  which  must  come  exactly  in  the  center  of  the  top  of  the  box.  For  the  machine  for 
cutting  these  cakes  see  Figs.  596-597.  These  machines  greatly  facilitate  the  cutting.  To  have 
them  very  regular,  according  to  the  above  proportions,  put  the  whole  cake  in  machine  No.  596, 
cut  it  in  transversal  slices  one  after  the  other,  pressing  the  cake  forward  on  the  machine  for  each 
slice  that  is  cut.  Machine  No.  597  is  used  for  dividing  the  first  slices  and  to  cut  them  very 
even,  passing  the  blade  of  the  knife  between  the  vertical  guides  of  the  machine.  If  instead  of 
small  cakes  in  boxes  a  large  one  be  desired,  then  put  the  preparation  into  one  large  round  mold 
sixteen  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  and  eighteen  inches  at  the  top  or  opening;  it  must  be 
five  and  a  half  inches  deep  and  furnished  with  a  tube  in  the  center  five  and  a  half  inches  at  the 
bottom  and  five  at  the  top.  Cover  the  insides  with  bands  of  buttered  paper,  overlapping  each  other, 
and  cook  the  cake  the  same  as  the  preceding  ones  in  a  slack  oven,  leaving  it  in  from  seven  to 
seven  and  a  half  hours.  Let  it  get  perfectly  cold  by  placing  on  top  a  board  seventeen  inches  in 
diameter,  having  a  hole  in  the  center  five  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  then  press  down  lightly. 
These  cakes  ought  to  be  made  two  months  before  they  are  needed  and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  When 
required  for  use  unmold,  remove  the  paper  and  ice  over  with  several  layers  of  royal  icing  (No.  101); 
slide  on  a  board  covered  with  lace  paper,  and  after  the  icing  is  perfectly  dry  decorate  with  more 
royal  icing.  A  fine  gum-paste  vase  can  be  placed  in  the  center,  filled  with  flowers  or  other  orna- 
ments. 

(3239).  GENOESE  CAKE  (Gateau  Genoise). 

Butter  a  pound  cake  mold  and  line  it  with  paper.  Have  one  pound  of  sugar,  part  of  it  being 
flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165),  in  a  basin  with  sixteen  whole  eggs;  whip  this  till  light,  warming 
the  preparation  over  a  slow  fire.  To  have  this  attain  a  proper  degree  of  lightness  it  will  be  neces- 


FIG.  596. 


Fie.  597. 


936  Tlii:    EPICUREAN. 

sary  to  whip  for  at  least  forty  minutes,  then  mix  in  one  pound  of  sifted  flour,  and  lastly  half  a 
pound  of  melted  butter.  Fill  the  mold  three-quarters  full  with  this,  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for 
an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Remove,  unmold  on  a  grate  and  cool  thoroughly.  Then  pare  it  very 
straight  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  ice  with  vanilla  fondant  (No.  58). 
After  the  icing  has  dried  thoroughly  slip  the  cake  on  a  dish  and  decorate  either  with  royal  icing 
or  fanciful  cuts  of  fruits;  surround  with  a  circle  of  preserved  plums  and  cherries. 

(3240).  GTJGELHOPPEN  (Cougloff). 

Butter  well  the  inside  of  a  baba  mold  having  fluted  sides;  decorate  the  interior  with  halved 
almonds  and  keep  it  cool.  Form  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour;  in  it  lay  half 
an  ounce  of  yeast,  diluting  it  little  by  little  with  a  small  quantity  of  tepid  milk;  mix  both 
flour  and  liquid  slowly  together  to  obtain  a  soft  paste;  gather  it  all  up,  lay  it  on  the  table  and  form 
into  a  ball,  cutting  a  cross  on  top;  place  in  a  basin,  cover  with  a  cloth  and  leave  in  a  mild  tempera- 
ture to  have  it  rise  to  double  its  volume.  In  another  vessel  work  ten  ounces  of  butter  with  a 
spatula  to  a  light  cream.  Lay  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table;  in  the 
center  put  one  ounce  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt;  dissolve  these  with  a  little  water,  then  add  four 
whole  eggs  and  four  separate  yolks;  mix  the  whole  well  and  knead  the  paste  vigorously  to  have  it 
smooth  with  plenty  of  body,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  a  baba  paste;  add  slowly  a  gill  and  a  half  of 
good  cream;  continue  to  knead  the  paste  until  it  is  quite  glossy,  then  add  the  butter  slowly,  knead 
once  more  for  a  few  moments,  put  in  the  leaven  and  mingle  all  well  together,  then  add  four  ounces 
of  seeded  Malaga  raisins.  As  soon  as  all  the  ingredients  are  perfectly  combined  lay  the  paste  in  the 
mold  to  reach  to  two-thirds  of  its  height  and  set  it  in  a  mild  temperature  until  it  raises  to  the 
top.  Place  the  mold  on  a  baking  pan  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for  two  hours;  unmold  on  a  wire 
grate. 

(3241).  HAZEL-EFT  CAKE  (Gateau  aux  Noisettes). 

Prepare  a  fine  paste  with  two  eggs,  four  ounces  of  almonds  and  four  ounces  of  hazel-nuts,  both 
well  pounded.  Put  into  a  basin  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  with  twenty  egg-yolks,  beat  till 
quite  frothy,  then  stir  in  the  almond  and  nut  paste,  continuing  to  beat  for  a  few  moments  longer, 
mix  in  lightly  three-quarters  of  a  pound  ot  flour  and  twenty  egg-whites  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Divide  this  preparation  in  three  rings  eight  inches  in  diameter  lined  with  paper;  bake  the  cakes 
in  a  slow  oven;  turn  them  out  as  soon  as  done  and  leave  cool  off  entirely,  then  mask  each  with  a 
thick  layer  of  pastry  cream  (No.  46)  highly  flavored  with  vanilla,  adding  to  it  a  few  roasted  hazel- 
nuts  pounded  with  a  little  cream.  Lay  one  round  on  top  of  the  other  to  form  into  one  large  cake; 
pare  it  well  rounded  and  very  uniform  with  a  knife  and  cover  it  entirely  with  reduced  apricot  mar- 
malade (No.  3675);  ice  the  cake  with  vanilla  icing  (No.  102).  As  soon  as  this  is  hard  and  dry  slide 
the  cake  on  a  dish  covered  with  lace  paper  and  decorate  the  top  with  a  fine  display  of  royal 
icing  ornamentation.  Surround  the  bottom  of  the  cake  with  small  lady  bouchees  (No.  3376)  iced 
with  white  fondant  (No.  58),  laying  each  one  in  a  small  paper  case. 

(3242).  JAMAICA  CAKE  (Gateau  a  la  Jamai'que). 

Beat  up  a  pound  of  sugar  with  fourteen  egg-yolks,  so  as  to  have  it  frothy,  then  add  slowly 
twelve  beaten-up  whites  and  at  the  same  time  one  pound  of  sifted  rice  flour,  then  a  pound  of  melted 
butter,  also  pouring  it  in  slowly  with  some  grated  lemon  peel,  a  grain  of  salt,  six  ounces  of  candied 
orange  peels  cut  in  small  pieces  and  six  ounces  of  small  raisins.  Bake  this  preparation  in  a  slack 
oven  after  placing  it  in  a  buttered  and  floured  spiral  mold;  when  the  cake  is  unmolded  and  cold 
apricot  the  surface  and  glaze  with  rum  icing  (No.  102).  Dress  on  a  napkin  and  decorate  with 
whipped  cream. 

(3243).  JELLY  OAKE  MERINGUED  (Gateau  a  la  GelSe  Meringue). 

Have  eight  egg-yolks  in  a  vessel  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon;  beat 
with  a  spatula  until  it  becomes  light  and  creamy,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  flour,  four  ounces  of 
melted  butter  and  lastly  eight  firmly  whipped  egg-whites.  Take  some  jelly  cake  molds  eight  inches 
in  diameter  and  half  an  inch  deep;  butter  and  flour  their  insides  and  fill  them  to  the  top  with  the 
mixture,  then  bake  In  a  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  done  unmold  on  grates  and  leave  stand  to  cool. 
Place  three  of  these  cakes  one  on  top  of  the  other  with  a  layer  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670) 
spread  between  each,  pare  the  cake  round,  decorate  the  surface  with  a  handsome  rosette  of  Italian 


LARGE    CAKES    FOR    ENTREMETS.  937 

meringue  (No.  140)  in  the  center,  it  having  six  to  eight  leaves,  with  an  empty  space  in  the  middle; 
around  the  edges  dress  a  continuous  wreath  of  these  rosettes,  also  hollow  in  the  center.  Stand 
the  cake  for  two  or  three  minutes  in  the  oven  to  dry  the  meringue  decorations,  then  take  out 
and  fill  the  cavities  with  apple,  currant  and  quince  jellies  and  apricot  marmalade,  alternating  the 
different  colors;  set  it  on  a  lace-paper  covered  dish.  Instead  of  covering  the  jelly  cake  with  merin- 
gue, a  piece  of  cardboard  the  same  diameter  as  the  cake,  having  a  design  of  any  kind  cut  out  to 
form  a  stencil,  may  be  used;  lay  it  over  the  cake,  sprinkle  it  entirely  with  finely  powdered  sugar, 
j-emove  the  cardboard  carefully  and  the  design  will  be  found  imprinted  on  the  cake. 

(3244).  LADY  CAKE  (Gateau  des  Dames). 

Put  fourteen  ounces  of  butter  and  twenty  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  metal  bowl  and  work  together 
with  the  hands  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  to  have  it  quite  frothy,  then  add  four  ounces  of  almonds, 
including  a  few  bitter  ones,  pounded  with  a  little  water,  and  work  again  for  a  few  moments.  Now 
put  in  one  gill  of  brandy  or  rum,  twenty  ounces  of  flour  and  finally  twenty  very  stiffly  whipped 
egg-whites.  Butter  a  pound-cake  mold,  line  it  throughout  with  paper  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full 
with  the  preparation;  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven.  (Once  the  cake  is  in  the  oven  it  must  not  be 
touched  until  baked.)  Take  it  out,  unmold  and  leave  to  get  thoroughly  cold.  Then  ice  with 
royal  icing  (No.  101)  and  stand  it  at  once  on  a  lace-paper  covered  board.  After  the  icing  has  dried 
decorate  the  cake  with  more  royal  icing. 

(3245).  HAND  AKIN  CAKE  (Gateau  Mandarin). 

Fasten  on  a  dish  a  wooden  bottom  about  an  inch  thick  and  cover  it  with  white  paper.  Heat  a 
medium-sized  biscuit  mold,  grease  it  over  with  melted  veal  kidney  suet  mixed  with  melted  butter, 
and  turn  it  over  to  drain  out  all  the  fat,  then  glaze  with  sugar  mixed  with  fecula.  Beat  up  vigor- 
ously in  a  basin  twelve  egg-yolks  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  having  one- 
quarter  of  it  grated  on  two  mandarins,  and  add  a  grain  of  salt.  When  this  preparation  becomes 
creamy,  incorporate  into  it  ten  or  eleven  beaten  whites,  and  at  the  same  time  let  fall  into  it  through 
a  sieve  a  pound  of  fine  flour  and  fecula  mixed  together;  carefully  work  without  breaking,  and  with 
it  fill  the  mold  nearly  to  the  top;  surround  the  exterior  of  the  top  with  a  band  of  buttered  paper, 
then  lay  it  on  a  small  baking  sheet  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  hot  cinders,  and  push  it  into  a 


FIG.  598. 

moderate  oven  to  bake  for  one  hour,  carefully  turning  the  baking  sheet  around  at  frequent  inter- 
vals. On  removing  the  biscuit  from  the  oven  detach  it  from  the  top,  inserting  a  small  knife 
around  the  edges,  and  unmold  on  a  grate,  and  when  perfectly  cold  cut  the  bottom  off  straight, 
then  let  it  get  stale  for  seven  or  eight  hours.  Should  the  surface  of  the  biscuit  not  be  smooth,  or 
else  too  brown,  stand  it  upright  on  the  grate  and  brush  over  entirely  with  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675),  then  cover  with  raw  vanilla  icing  (No.  102);  when  this  is  dry,  cut  a  round  piece  from  the 
cut  side,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge,  remove  this  piece  and  empty  out  the  biscuit  as 
neatly  as  possible,  not  approaching  the  edges  too  closely.  Cut  across  through  the  center  about 
twelve  small,  fresh  and  sound  mandarins;  remove  the  insides  neatly  from  the  peel,  keeping  these  as 
whole  as  possible,  and  lay  them  on  one  side;  suppress  the  white  pith  and  seeds  from  the  fruit,  and 
crush  the  pulp  to  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  put  this  into  a  vessel  and  mix  with  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
champagne,  some  syrup,  a  small  bunch  of  lemon  peel  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  calf's  foot  jelly  (No. 
104),  sweetened  and  clarified;  let  infuse  together  for  fifteen  minutes.  With  a  vegetable  spoon  (Fig. 
91)  scoop  out  all  the  white  part  from  the  halved  mandarin  peels,  and  incrust  them  in  a  thick  layer 
of  pounded,  slightly  salted  ice,  suppressing  the  lemon  peel  from  the  preparation;  thicken  it  lightly 


938  THE    EPICUREAN. 

while  stirring  on  ice,  and  with  it  fill  the  empty  peels;  brush  them  over  with  jelly  and  keep  on  ice  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Open  five  or  six  oranges  from  the  stalk  end;  with  a  tin  tube  empty  them 
out  entirely,  suppressing  all  the  white  pith;  incrust  them  in  pounded,  unsalted  ice,  and  then  fill 
them  with  clear  jelly  flavored  with  orange  (No.  3180),  alternated  with  layers  of  blanc-mange 
(No.  3138),  also  flavored  with  orange;  harden  both  of  these  preparations  on  ice.  Now  fill  the 
empty  biscuit  with  well-drained  and  sweetened  whipped  cream  flavored  with  Curacoa  and  orange 
peel.  Close  the  opening  with  the  removed  piece  and  dress  on  the  center  of  the  wooden  bottom. 
Surround  with  the  filled  halved  mandarins,  and  the  base  of  the  dish  with  the  oranges  cut  in  six, 
then  cut  off  straight  on  one  end  so  as  to  maintain  them  upright. 

(3246).  MAKLY  CAKE  (Gateau  Marly). 

Butter  and  glaze  two  dome-shaped  pointed  molds,  seven  inches  high  by  six  inches  in  diameter; 
fill  them  almost  to  the  top  with  a  lemon-flavored  biscuit  preparation,  the  same  as  for  mandarin 
cakes  (No,  3245),  and  surround  the  opening  with  a  band  of  buttered  paper;  stand  them  upright  on 
a  raised-edge  baking  sheet  and  bake  the  biscuits  in  a  slow  oven  for  one  hour.  Remove  and  un- 
mold  on  a  pastry  grate,  and  when  cold  cut  the  bottoms  off  straight  and  let  get  stale  for  the  next 


FIG.  599. 

twelve  hours.  Now  lay  the  cakes  on  a  grate,  placing  them  on  the  cut  end  and  brush  them  over 
lightly  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  then  cover  one  of  them  entirely  with  pink  icing  (No.  102) 
and  the  other  with  white  (No.  102).  Two  minutes  after,  without  letting  it  get  dry,  divide  each  biscuit 
into  eight  pieces  from  top  to  bottom,  pointed  on  the  tops,  and  when  the  icing  is  thoroughly  dry  take  up 
the  pieces  one  by  one  and  reconstruct  them  into  one  biscuit,  only  being  careful  to  alternate  the  colors, 
having  first  a  pink  piece  and  then  a  white  one;  empty  the  inside  of  the  biscuit  as  neatly  as  possible 
and  fill  the  center  with  St.  Honore  cream  (No.  49),  to  which  pounded  almonds  and  a  little  kirsch 
have  been  added,  dressing  it  in  layers  alternated  with  cut-up  macaroons  soaked  in  rum.  Invert 
the  biscuit  on  a  cold  dish  covered  over  with  a  folded  napkin. 

(3247),  MILFOIL  CAKE,  POMPADOUE  (Gateau  Mille-Feuilles,  Pompadour). 
Prepare  some  rounds  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  the  same  way  and  size  as  the  milfoil  with  pre- 
serves (No.  3248);  cover  each  of  these  with  vanilla-flavored  English  cream  (No.  42),  dredging  the 
top  with  a  salpicon  of  candied  fruits  cut  in  one-eighth  inch  squares  and  macerated  in  kirsch. 
After  the  cake  is  formed,  pare  it  round  and  cover  with  firmly  beaten  and  well-drained  whipped 
cream  sweetened  with  fine  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165).  Dress  this  in  a  dome-form  on  top,  and  deco- 
rate through  a  cornet  with  whipped  cream  tinted  a  pale  pink;  strew  with  thin  green  fillets  of 
pistachios.  Slip  the  cake  on  a  flat  two  inches  wider  than  itself  and  covered  with  strawberry  icing 
(No.  102),  sprinkled  with  red  sugar  (No.  172);  surrround  the  base  of  the  cake  with  small  lady 
bouchees  iced  with  strawberry  (No.  3376). 

(3248),  MILFOIL  WITH  PEESEEVES  (Gateau  Mille-Feuilles  aux  Confitures). 
This  requires  some  puff  paste  of  twelve  turns  (No.  146);  divide  it  into  six-ounce  pieces,  roll 
them  out  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  into  rounds  seven  inches  in  diameter; 
lay  these  on  baking  sheets  slightly  moistened  with  cold  water  applied  with  a  brush;  from  the  center 
of  each  piece  remove  a  two-inch  diameter  round  and  leave  these  to  rest  in  a  cold  place  for  half  an 
hour;  bestrew  lightly  with  sugar,  prick  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  After  taking  them  out  detach 


LAROJE   CAKES   FOU   ENTREMETS.  939 

from  the  sheets  and  lay  them  at  once  on  grates  to  get  cold,  then  stand  one  on  top  of  the  other  inter- 
calated with  a  layer  either  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  apricot  marmalade  or  peach  marmalade  (No. 
3675);  pare  the  cake  neatly  into  a  perfect  round  and  cover  with  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  on  the 
edges.  Sprinkle  over  it  a  mixture  made  of  equal  parts  of  Mocha  sugar  (No.  3249),  half  of  which  is 
colored  with  carmine  with  a  little  syrup,  chopped  almonds,  chopped  pistachios  and  currants.  Lay 
the  cake  on  a  tart  dish  and  push  into  a  moderate  oven  for  a  few  moments  to  dry  the  meringue 
without  coloring  it,  then  place  it  on  a  round  made  of  a  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thickness  of 
frolle  paste  (No.  136),  and  iced  over  with  pink  icing  (No.  102),  strewn  with  pink  sugar  (No.  172), 
it  having  a  border  of  gum  paste  or  English  paste.  Dress  the  milfoil  either  on  a  napkin  or  on  a 
socle,  and  garnish  around  with  small  bouchees  filled  with  currant  jelly,  these  being  called  Wells  of 
Love  (No.  3338). 

(3249).  MOCHA  CAKE  (Gateau  Moka). 

Deposit  in  a  vessel  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  six  egg-yolks  and  one  whole  egg;  beat  for  fifteen 
minutes  to  have  it  light,  then  add  six  ounces  of  flour  and  two  ounces  of  fecula  sifted  together, 
also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  six  ounces  of  melted  butter,  and 'lastly  six  well-whipped  egg- 
whites.  Bake  this  in  a  buttered  and  paper-lined  pound-cake  mold;  as  soon  as  done  remove,  un- 
mold  on  a  grate  and  leave  it  there  until  perfectly  cold.  Now  pare  the  cake  very  straight  and  cut 
it  across  in  two  even  parts;  fill  it  with  a  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  Mocha  cream  (No. 
45);  cover  the  top  and  sides  with  the  same  and  decorate  the  surface  through  a  channeled  socket 
pocket  (Fig.  179),  using  more  of  the  cream;  dredge  with  Mocha  sugar.  Leave  the  cake  in  a  cool 
place  until  required  for  serving. 

Mocha  Sugar  is  made  by  pounding  loaf  sugar  in  a  mortar  and  passing  it  through  a  six-mesh 
sieve  cloth  (No.  94). 

(3250).  NEAPOLITAN  CAKE  (Gateau  Napolitain). 

Crush  one  pound  and  ten  ounces  of  almonds  with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar;  reduce  to  a 
fine  powder;  pass  this  through  a  sieve.  Sift  on  the  table  two  pounds  of  flour,  make  a  hollow  in 
the  center  and  in  it  lay  the  almond  and  sugar  powder,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  butter,  a  pinch  of 
salt  and  four  whole  eggs;  work  the  whole  together  just  enough  to  form  a  smooth,  firm  paste, 
for  if  worked  too  much  it  is  liable  to  crumble.  Lay  it  in  a  vessel  and  leave  in  a  cool  place  to  rest; 
one  hour  later  divide  this  paste  into  sixteen  or  twenty  even  parts  and  roll  them  to  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick  by  six  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter;  empty  out  the  centers  with  a  two-inch  pastry- 
cutter.  Have  two  of  the  flats  a  little  thicker  and  two  inches  wider  in  diameter  than  the  others; 
bake  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  in  a  hot  oven,  and  as  soon  as  done  take  them  out  and 
leave  to  cool  under  the  pressure  of  a  weight;  pare  the  large  rounds  eight  inches  in  diameter  and 
put  them  once  more  under  a  weight;  when  cold  ice  either  with  white  or  pink  icing  (No.  102);  mask 
the  small  flats  with  well-strained  and  reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  now  lay  them  one  over 
the  other;  pare  them  evenly  to  have  the  cake  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  cover  the  whole  with  well- 
reduced  and  well-cooked  apricot  marmalade;  place  the  cake  on  one  of  the  large  flats  and  over  lay 
the  second  large  one.  Decorate  around  with  fanciful  cuts  of  almond  gum  paste  and  the  top  with 
a  cupola  of  royal  icing  or  gum  paste.  Ornament  around  the  edge  of  the  large  flat  with  a  double 
border  of  the  same  paste  and  arrange  the  cake  on  a  richly  decorated  stand.  This  cake  is  intended 
for  a  sideboard.  It  can  also  be  made  with  almond  biscuit  (No.  3229). 

(3251)  NOUGATINE  CAKE  (Gateau  Nougatine). 

Make  a  biscuit  preparation  with  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  pound  of  flour,  six  whole  eggs, 
eighteen  yolks,  six  beaten  whites,  vanilla  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Bake  this  in  a  slack  oven  in  three 
or  four  smooth  fruit  pie  circles,  six  or  seven  inches  in  diameter  by  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half 
high.  These  circles  should  be  buttered  with  clarified  butter  and  glazed  with  fecula.  After  taking 
them  from  the  oven  remove  from  the  circles  and  leave  to  get  thoroughly  cold  for  twelve  hours. 
Prepare  a  buttered  orange  cream  the  same  as  for  the  Fleury  cake  (No.  3237).  Mince  half  a  pound 
of  sweet  peeled  almonds,  previously  dried  on  a  sheet  of  paper  then  roasted  in  a  pan  to  brown  nicely. 
Cut  the  biscuits  into  transversal  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  taking  up  seven  or  eight 
of  these,  one  by  one,  cover  one  side  with  a  layer  of  the  prepared  cream,  then  put  one  on  top  of  the 
other  so  as  to  form  into  a  regular-shaped  cake,  and  cover  the  top  and  sides  at  once  with  another 
layer  of  cream;  now  spread  over  the  whole  a  layer  of  the  roasted  almonds,  fastening  them  on  with 
the  blade  of  a  knife,  so  as  to  equalize  its  thickness;  besprinkle  lightly  with  fine  vanilla  sugar  (No, 
8165),  and  push  the  cake  for  one  minute  in  a  hot  oven,  simply  to  have  the  sugar  adhere  to  the 
almonds,  then  take  out  at  once  and  when  cold  dress  on  a  napkin. 


940  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3252).  PINEAPPLE  CAKE  (Gateau  Ananas). 

Prepare  a  Savoy  biscuit  composition  in  the  following  proportions:  One  pound  of  sugar,  fourteen 
yolks,  two  whole  eggs,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  feculaand  flour,  half  of  each,  fourteen  whipped 
whites,  and  some  pineapple  extract.  Bake  a  part  of  this  in  a  Savarin  mold  seven  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter,  buttered  and  glazed  with  sugar  and  fecula,  and  the  remainder  in  a  charlotte 
mold  six  inches  wide  by  seven  high.  As  soon  as  both  are  cooked  unmold  the  cakes  and  allow  to  cool. 
Cover  the  one  baked  in  the  Savarin  mold  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  ice  with  pink 
fondant  (No.  58)  flavored  with  kirsch;  as  soon  as  this  is  dry  slip  it  on  a  sweet  paste  (No.  136)  foun- 
dation, sprinkled  over  with  green  granulated  sugar;  put  a  pad  of  biscuit  in  the  center,  and  range 
it  on  a  dish  or  board  covered  with  lace  paper.  Pare  the  cake  baked  in  the  charlotte  mold  to  the 
shape  of  a  sugar  loaf,  then  cut  it  into  transversal  slices  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  cover  all 
of  these  with  a  light  layer  of  apricot  marmalade,  and  reconstruct  the  cake  as  before;  cover  its 
entire  surface  with  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  flavored  with  orange  and  slightly  tinted  with  vege- 
table yellow;  pour  some  of  the  same  meringue  in  a  pocket  (Fig.  179)  with  a  channeled  socket  and 
push  it  through  to  imitate  the  rough  skin  of  a  pineapple,  forming  points  on  the  entire  surface  of 
the  cake;  stand  it  on  a  tart  plate  and  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  to  barely  dry  the  meringue;  remove 
it  at  once  and  allow  to  cool  thoroughly;  place  it  on  a  grate  and  ice  over  with  yellow  orange  icing 
(No.  102),  and  when  this  is  dry  detach  the  pineapple  cautiously  from  the  grate  and  place  it  on  top 
of  the  biscuit.  Over  the  points  of  the  rough  pineapple  form  the  tips  with  chocolate  icing  pushed 
through  a  cornet.  Decorate  the  top  with  stalks  cut  from  angelica  dipped  in  sugar  cooked  to 
"crack"  (No.  171)  having  the  base  of  the  pineapple  surrounded  by  leaves  of  the  same.  (See 
pineapple,  No.  3595.) 

(3253).  PLUM  CAKE  (Gateau  aux  Raisins  de  Oorinthe). 

Butter  a  charlotte  mold  five  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  by  five  inches  high;  at  the  bottom 
lay  a  round  piece  of  paper  and  line  the  sides  with  a  band  of  the  same.  This  should  reach  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  beyond  the  edge  and  should  be  serrated  all  around.  Place  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  vessel  with  the  same  weight  of  sugar  and  beat  together  to  have  it  creamy, 
then  add  six  whole  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  one  gill  of  rum,  six  ounces  of  currants  cleaned  and  softened 
in  hot  water,  three  ounces  of  preserved  cherries  cut  in  four,  three  ounces  of  citron  cut  up  finely,  a  pinch 
of  powdered  carbonate  of  ammonia,  and  lastly  fourteen  ounces  of  sifted  flour.  Fill  the  mold  three- 
quarters  full  with  this,  and  stand  it  on  a  baking  plate;  push  it  into  a  slack  oven  to  bake,  and  when 
done  unmold  on  a  grate  to  cool  thoroughly  without  removing  the  paper,  then  place  it  on  a  dish 
covered  with  a  folded  napkin  and  serve. 

(3254).  POUND  CAKE  (Pound  Cake). 

Put  twelve  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  basin  and  whip  until  they  become  quite  light, 
warming  them  slightly  over  the  fire.  In  a  large  metal  vessel  lay  one  pound  of  butter  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  work  with  the  hands  until  creamy  and  light,  then  add  gradually  the 
prepared  eggs,  beating  continuously,  and  a  gill  of  brandy  or  rum,  and  lastly  one  pound  of  sifted 
flour.  Butter  a  pound  cake  mold,  line  it  with  paper  and  pour  in  the  preparation,  having  it  three- 
quarters  full,  then  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  to  bake  for  an  hour  and  three-quarters  to  two  hours. 
Remove  from  the  oven,  unmold,  and  leave  stand  till  cold,  then  ice  it  with  icing  flavored  with  rum 
(No.  102).  After  this  is  dry  slip  the  cake  on  a  board  or  dish  and  decorate  with  royal  icing. 

(3255).  PUNCH  CAKE,  PUNCH  BISCUIT,  IMITATION  OF  BOAK'S  HEAD,  A  BOOK  OR  A  HAM 
(Gateau  Punch,  Punch  Biscuit,  Imitation  de  Hure  de  Sanglier,  d'un  Livre  ou  d'un  Jambon). 
Put  eight  ounces  of  fine  white  apple  marmalade  (No.  3674)  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  copper 
pan;  stand  this  on  the  fire  and  cook  for  a  few  moments  to  reduce  the  marmalade,  then  remove  and 
add  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  rum,  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  Curacoa  and  eight  well-beaten  egg-whites.  Bake 
a  Savoy  biscuit  (No.  3231)  in  a  buttered  timbale  mold,  glazed  with  sugar  and  fecula;  as  soon  as 
done,  unmold,  cool  and  cut  it  straight,  then  empty  it  from  the  bottom,  leaving  an  inch-thick  crust 
all  around.  Fill  the  empty  cake  with  the  above  apples,  lay  over  a  round  of  frolle  paste  (No.  136) 
the  same  dimensions  as  the  cake  and  invert  it  on  a  grate;  ice  with  orange  fondant  (No.  58)  flavored 
with  rum  and  Curacoa.  After  the  icing  has  dried  slide  the  cake  on  a  dish,  decorate  with  fanciful 
cuts  of  candied  fruits  and  surround  the  base  with  a  circle  of  greengages. 


LARGE    CAKES    FOR    ENTREMETS.  941 

Punch  Biscuit  Paste — One  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  fecula, 
nine  ounces  of  melted  butter,  three  whole  eggs,  eleven  yolks,  four  whipped  whites,  a  small  glassful 
of  rum.  chopped  lemon  and  orange  peel  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Place  the  sugar  in  a  vessel;  add 
the  yolks  slowly,  creaming  together  with  a  spoon,  and  when  very  light  put  in  the  butter,  the  rum, 
the  whipped  whites,  the  fecula,  the  sifted  flour,  and  lastly  the  peels  and  salt. 

Boar's  Head — Imitation  (Hure  de  Sanglier). — Bake  thoroughly  a  punch  biscuit  in  an  oval 
mold  the  same  size  as  a  natural  boar's  head,  fourteen  by  nine  inches  on  the  top  and  six  inches 
deep,  the  splay  to  be  half  an  inch.  The  next  day  cut  the  biscuit  the  shape  of  a  boar's  head 
(Fig.  537);  hollow  it  out  underneath  and  replace  the  biscuit  that  is  removed  by  the  same 
soaked  in  maraschino  so  as  to  make  a  paste,  into  which  mix  plenty  of  candied  fruits.  Lay  the  cake 
on  an  oval  foundation  the  size  of  the  head,  and  cover  with  well-cooked  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675),  then  coat  the  whole  with  cooked  chocolate  icing  (No.  99).  As  soon  as  the  icing  is  dry  cut 
out  the  snout,  leaving  it  partly  opened,  hollow  out  the  cavities  for  the  eyes,  and  on  each  side  of 
the  snout  place  two  large  fangs  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  127)  and  dipped  in  clear  dissolved 
gelatine.  Imitate  the  eyes  by  two  rounded  balls  of  almond  paste,  placing  a  black  spot  in  the 
center;  mold  these  in  a  teaspoon  with  clarified  gelatine;  unmold  and  when  cold  fasten  them  in  the 
cavities  made  to  hold  the  eyes.  Dres?  the  cake  on  a  foundation  glazed  with  green  fondant  (No.  58). 
Decorate  the  head  with  fruits  and  transparent  hatelets,  ornamented  with  large  fruits;  the  base 
should  be  surrounded  with  chopped  jelly  and  jelly  croutons. 

A  Book — Imitation  (Un  Livre). — To  be  prepared  the  same  as  the  boar's  head  with  punch 
biscuit,  the  two  covers  and  the  back  of  the  binding  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  127).  Empty  out 
the  center,  leaving  the  top  cover  stationary.  Glaze  the  sides  of  the  book  with  orange  icing,  the 
cover  with  coffee  icing  and  decorate  the  whole  with  royal  icing.  Fill  the  inside  with  tutti-frutti 
ice  cream  (No.  3586).  This  book  can  be  laid  on  a  socle  or  a  cushion  glazed  with  pink  icing. 

Ham — Imitation  (Jambon}. — As  for  the  boar's  head,  prepare  a  punch  biscuit  fourteen  inches 
long,  nine  inches  wide  and  four  and  a  half  inches  thick;  after  being  cooked  and  thoroughly  cold, 
trim  it  to  the  shape  of  a  ham,  then  cut  it  through  its  thickness;  empty  it  out  and  fill  the  center  with 
a  Bengalian  charlotte  preparation  (No.  3142).  Fasten  the  two  parts  together  again  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  coat  it  over  with  the  same.  Glaze  the  handle  end  one-third  of  the  length 
of  the  ham  with  chocolate  icing  to  imitate  the  rind  and  the  other  two-thirds  with  white  prunelle  icing. 
Stand  the  ham  on  a  foundation  bottom  made  of  frolle  paste  (No.  136),  and  on  the  chocolate  end  stick 
a  piece  of  pointed  wood  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  by  five  inches  in  length;  trim  the  end  of 
this  with  a  large  paper  rosette.  Decorate  the  white  part  of  the  ham  with  almond  paste  (No.  127) 
flavored  with  chocolate  or  pu  tachio.  Leave  it  to  cool  perfectly,  then  coat  with  jelly.  Lay  the  ham 
on  a  small  low  socle  (for  this  see  ham  a  la  Gatti,  Fig.  498),  and  decorate  around  with  chopped  jelly 
and  croutons.  These  cakes  can  also  be  made  to  imitate  a  salmon  (Fig.  521a),  a  swan  (Fig.  723), 
foies-gras  patty  (Fig.  515),  boned  turkey  (Fig.  479)  or  any  other  design. 

(3256).  QUEEN  CAKE  (Gateau  KeineX 

Beat  up  a  pound  of  butter  with  twelve  egg-yolks,  adding  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  little  at  a  time, 
half  a  pound  of  ground  almonds,  half  a  pound  of  fecula  and  then  seven  beaten  whites,  one  quart 
in  volume  of  drained  whipped  cream,  vanilla  or  lemon  flavored,  a  few  candied  orange  flowers  and 
a  grain  of  salt,  the  cream  to  be  added  lastly.  Bake  in  a  slack  oven  in  a  spiral  mold  glazed  with 
sugar.  After  the  cake  is  unmolded  and  cold  cover  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  ice  with 
maraschino  icing  (No.  102).  No  good  results  can  be  expected  unless  good  cream  is  used. 

(3257).  ROEDERER  CAKE  (Gateau  Roederer). 

Pound  six  ounces  of  almonds  and  six  ounces  of  pistachios  with  a  little  milk  to  make  a  fine, 
soft  paste.  Put  one  pound  of  sugar  in  a  basin,  slowly  add  sixteen  whole  eggs,  and  beat  until  very 
light,  heating  it  slightly  on  hot  embers  or  oh  a  very  slow  fire;  put  in  the  almond  paste  and  con- 
tinue beating  for  a  few  moments  longer,  then  mix  in  with  a  small  skimmer  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  rice  flour  and  lastly  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter.  Butter  a  pound  cake  mold,  line  it 
with  paper  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation;  push  into  a  very  slack  oven  to  cook 
for  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  When  done  remove  arid  invert  it  on  a  grate  to  cool,  then 
detach  the  cake  from  the  paper  and  cut  it  across  in  two;  fill  it  with  some  Bavarian  cream  (No. 
3135),  into  which  mix  three  ounces  of  pistachios  pounded  with  a  little  vanilla  syrup;  cover  the 
entire  cake  with  hot  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  coat  it  with  pistachio  fondant  (No.  58)  and 


942  THE    EPICUREAN. 

bestrew  immediately  with  finely  shredded  green  pistachios;  let  the  fondant  dry,  then  slide  the 
cake  on  a  lace-paper  covered  board  or  dish  and  surround  the  base  with  a  row  of  small  cream 
cakes  (No.  3295),  glazed  with  sugar  cooked  to  "crack"  (No.  171)  and  sprinkled  with  shredded 
pistachios. 

(3258).  SAND  CAKE  (Gateau  Sable), 

Mix  twelve  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  four  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  in  a  basin 
with  sixteen  egg-yolks;  beat  until  light,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  half  a  pound  of  fecula, 
sifted  together,  one  pound  of  melted  butter,  and  lastly  the  sixteen  beaten  whites;  bake  this  in  a 
slack  oven  in  a  pound  cake  or  manque  mold,  buttered  and  lined  with  paper,  and  when  done  to  per- 
fection take  it  out  and  invert  on  a  grate  to  cool.  Then  cover  the  cake  with  well-reduced  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  ice  over  with  water  icing  flavored  with  rum  (No.  102).  Decorate  with 
candied  fruits  and  dress  on  a  dish  covered  with  lace  paper. 

(3259).  SAVAKIN  A  LA  VALENCE  (Savarin  k  la  Valence), 

Butter  a  medium-sized  Savarin  mold,  dredge  the  bottom  with  cut-up  almonds  and  fill  it  half 
full  with  Savarin  paste  (No.  148)  into  which  has  been  incorporated  candied  orange  peel  cut  in  the 
shape  of  small  dice.  Let  it  rise  in  a  mild  temperature  until  it  reaches  the  edges,  then  bake  in  a 
slack  oven.  As  soon  as  it  is  done  remove  from  the  oven,  pare  it  even  and  unmold  on  a  grate; 
pour  some  orange  syrup  over,  cover  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  glaze  with  fondant 
(No.  58),  flavored  with  orange.  When  the  icing  is  cold  slip  the  Savarin  on  to  a  bottom  made  of 
office  paste  (No.  143)  covered  with  green  sugar  (No.  172),  and  dress  it  on  a  dish.  Decorate  the  top 
of  the  cake  with  a  wreath  of  angelica  lozenges  and  cherries  (demi-sucre);  fill  the  center  with 
Chantilly  cream  (No.  50)  flavored  with  orange  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  place  on  top  a  light  sugar 
sultana  (No.  3193),  then  serve. 

(3260).  SPONGE  CAKE  (Biscuit  Leger), 

Set  into  a  basin  fourteen  whole  eggs,  two  separate  yolks,  one  pound  of  sugar  and  the  peel  of  a 
lemon;  beat  in  such  a  way  as  to  have  a  very  light  composition  while  heating  it  slightly;  in  order  to 
obtain  the  desired  lightness  it  will  be  necessary  to  beat  for  at  least  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  then 
carefully  mix  in  one  pound  of  flour.  With  this  fill  a  pound  cake  or  "  manque  "  mold  three-quarters 
full,  having  it  buttered  and  glazed  with  sugar  and  fecula,  half  of  each;  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  In- 
vert the  cake  as  soon  as  done  on  a  grate,  let  get  thoroughly  cold,  then  bestrew  with  icing  sugar  and 
dress  on  a  dish.  This  cake  may  be  served  plain,  without  icing,  simply  bestrewing  vanilla  sugar 
(No.  3165)  over  it. 

(3261).  ST.  HONOKE  AND  ST.  HONOBE  SULTANA  (St.  HonorS  et  St.  HonorS  Sultane). 

Roll  out  some  very  fine  short  paste  (No.  135)  to  obtain  a  flat  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  and  eight  inches  in  diameter;  lay  it  on  a  round  baking  pan  dampened  with  water,  prick 
it  all  over  and  with  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  half-inch  diameter  socket  push  flat  on  the  edges  of 
this  a  heavy  string  of  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132).  Egg  over  twice  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Dress  on  another  tart  plate  sixteen  small  round  cream  cakes  (No. 
3294),  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  egg  over  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  then 
detach  from  the  plate  by  slipping  a  knife  underneath.  Peel  two  oranges,  divide  them  in  sections, 
leaving  on  only  the  fine  skin  covering  the  pulp,  being  careful  not  to  break  it,  and  range  them  on  a 
grate  to  dry,  either  in  the  air  or  in  a  heater.  Wash  in  hot  water  some  candied  fruits,  such  as 
cherries,  apricots,  angelica  and  pears;  wipe  dry  and  cut  the  apricots  in  four,  the  angelica  in  lozenges, 
the  pears  in  four  and  leave  the  cherries  whole;  have  also  some  loose  green  grapes,  eight  pieces  of 
each  kind  of  fruit.  Cook  some  sugar  to  "crack"  (No.  171);  first  dip  in  the  cream  cakes  and 
arrange  them  on  an  oiled  baking  tin,  then  drain;  proceed  the  same  with  the  oranges,  grapes, 
apricots,  angelica,  cherries,  pears,  etc.  On  the  band  fasten  the  cream  cakes  with  sugar  cooked  to 
4 '  crack  ;"  on  top  of  these  place  a  row  of  quartered  oranges,  on  each  quartered  orange  a  glazed 
cherry,  and  between  each  one  of  the  sections  place  an  angelica  lozenge  or  one  of  the  grapes;  slip 
on  a  dish  covered  with  lace  paper.  Fill  the  St.  Honore  with  St.  Honore  cream  (No.  49),  and  serve. 

St.  Honort  Sultana. — Replace  the  St.  Honore  cream  by  a  vanilla  bavarois  cream  (No.  3135)  with 
plenty  of  whipped  cream,  and  over  the  fruits  place  a  spun  sugar  sultana  the  shape  of  an  ogive  (No. 
3193),  and  around  quarters  of  apricots  and  pears,  both  glazed. 


JLARGE    CAKES    FOR    ENTREMETS.  943 

(3262).  STEAWBEEEY  SHOET  CAKE  (Gateau  aux  Praises). 

Place  in  a  basin  six  ounces  of  butter  with  ten  ounces  of  sugar;  beat  both  well  together  until 
a  creamy  preparation  is  obtained,  then  add  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  two  gills  of  milk  and  vanilla 
flavoring.  After  the  whole  has  been  well  mixed  pour  in  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  into  which  has 
been  added  a  coffeespoonf  ul  of  baking  powder.  Have  some  round  flat  molds  seven  and  a  half  inches 
in  diameter  and  the  edges  raised  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  high;  butter  and  flour  these  over,  then 
fill  them  to  the  top  with  the  mixture  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  Unmold  on  a  grate  as  soon  as  they 
are  done  and  leave  stand  till  cold;  cover  each  one  of  these  layers  of  cake  with  a  vanilla  pastry 
cream  (No.  46),  and  on  it  arrange  very  fine,  ripe  strawberries,  one  next  to  the  other;  bestrew  with 
sugar  and  lay  two  of  these  garnished  cakes  one  on  top  of  the  other;  put  on  a  dish  and  cover  the 
cake  with  sweetened  whipped  cream  (No.  50),  flavored  with  vanilla  and  pushed  through  a  pocket. 

(3263).  PAVAET  CAKE   (Gateau  Pavart). 

Whip  sixteen  eggs  in  a  basin  with  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar 
(No.  3165);  beat  till  very  light  while  heating  slightly,  then  stir  in  with  a  spoon  one  pound  of  sifted 
flour  and  later  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  melted  butter.  Butter  a  hexagonal  mold  (Fig.  139) 
with  clarified  butter,  flour  it  over  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation.  Bake  in  a 
slow  oven;  when  done,  unmold  on  a  grate  and  when  thoroughly  cold  cover  with  peach  marmalade 
(No.  3675),  ice  with  kirsch  icing  (No.  102),  dredging  the  top  with  chopped  burnt  almonds  and  some 
small  one-eighth  inch  squares  of  angelica  and  citron. 

(3264).  VAOHEEIN  CAKE  WITH  OEEAM  (Gateau  Vacherin  a  la  Creme). 

Cut  three  or  four  rounds  of  white  paper  seven  inches  in  diameter;  on  the  edges  of  these 
push  through  a  socket  pocket  some  meringue  (No.  140),  to  form  a  ring  an  inch  wide  and  of  the 
same  height;  smooth  the  surfaces  of  the  meringue  on  both  top  and  sides  with  the  blade  of  a  knife, 
bestrew  with  fine  sugar  and  stand  each  one  on  a  board  dampened  with  water;  dry  the  meringue  in 
a  slack  oven  without  letting  attain  color.  •  After  these  rings  have  been  removed  invert  them  on 
baking  sheets  and  replace  them  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes  to  dry  the  meringue  that  has  remained 


FIG.  600. 

soft,  then  stand  for  twenty-four  hours  in  a  warm  closet.  Arrange  these  rings  on  top  of  each  other 
on  a  layer  of  frolle  paste  (No.  136)  cut  exactly  the  same  dimensions,  and  cover  each  one  with 
meringue  made  of  cooked  sugar  (No.  140),  to  fasten  them  together;  mask  the  entire  inside  with  a 
thin  layer  of  the  same  meringue;  smooth  it  quickly  and  dry  for  two  hours  in  a  warm  closet.  After 
the  meringue  is  quite  cold  cover  it  superficially  with  a  brush  dipped  in  reduced  apricot  marmalade 
(No.  3675),  not  having  it  too  thick;  dry  this  in  the  air,  then  decorate  the  upper  ring  with  a  chain 
of  small  rings  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  made  of  lady  finger  paste  (No.  3377),  also  to  be  covered 
with  the  marmalade.  Fill  the  center  of  these  small  rings  with  quince  jelly  (No.  3672)  or  currant 
jelly  (No.  3670).  Slip  the  cake  on  a  folded  napkin  and  at  the  last  moment  cover  with  whipped 
cream  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  50). 

(3265).  VALENTINE  CAKE  WITH  EUM  (Gateau  Valentin  au  Ehum). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  one  pound  of  sugar  and  three  eggs;  make  it  into  a  very 
fine  paste;  put  it  into  a  basin  and  dilute  gradually  with  thirteen  eggs  and  one  gill  of  rum;  beat 
well  until  perfectly  light.  Line  a  mold  with  very  thin  sweet  paste  (No.  136);  fill  it  three-quarters 
full  with  the  preparation  and  strew  over  some  finely  cut-up  almonds.  Bake  in  a  very  slack  oven 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  turn  the  cake  out  on  a  grate  and  allow  to  cool;  when  cold  glaze 
with  a  light  frosting  flavored  with  rum.  This  cake  can  be  kept  for  several  months  if  wrapped  in 
tin-foil  and  left  in  a  dry  cool  place. 


944  THE    EPICUREAN. 

BEEAKPAST  CAKES  (Gateaux  de  Dejeuner), 


(3266).  BISCUITS  (Biscuits). 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour  on  a  table,  divide  it  into  four  parts,  and  take  one  of  these  to  make 
the  leaven  by  making  a  circle  with  the  flour  and  diluting  half  an  ounce  of  compressed  yeast  with  a 
little  tepid  water,  then  mix  to  make  a  soft  paste;  shape  this  leaven  into  a  ball  and  cut  a  cross  on 
top;  lay  it  in  a  deep  vessel  and  cover,  leaving  it  to  rise  to  double  its  height.  Make  a  hollow  in  the 
center  of  the  remaining  flour,  lay  in  it  two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  seven  whole  eggs  and 
two  yolks;  mix  well  together  to  form  a  paste,  working  it  well  so  that  it  obtains  considerable  body, 
and  then  incorporate  three  ounces  of  butter.  As  soon  as  the  leaven  is  ready  mix  it  well  but  lightly 
into  the  paste,  then  lay  it  in  a  vessel  and  cover  to  let  it  rise  to  double  its  volume.  Afterward  knead 
it  and  with  it  fill  some  tin  or  sheet-iron  half  cylindrical  molds,  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter 
by  twelve  inches  long,  and  previously  buttered.  Leave  them  until  the  dough  rises  as  high  as  the 
level  of  the  edges,  then  set  these  molds  in  the  oven  so  the  biscuits  bake  all  alike  to  a  fine  golden 
color.  Unmold  them  as  soon  as  they  are  done  and  cut  them  across  in  quarter-inch  slices;  range 
these  on  tins  and  push  into  a  slack  oven  to  brown  slightly. 

(3267).  CINNAMON  BISCUITS  (Biscuits  a  la  Oanelle). 

The  proportion  for  these  is  one  pound  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of  compressed  yeast,  four  ounces 
of  sugar  and  one  grain  of  salt,  seven  whole  eggs  and  two  yolks.  With  these  ingredients  prepare  a 
dough  the  same  as  for  biscuits  (No.  3266).  As  soon  as  it  is  risen  properly  lay  it  in  a  long,  square- 
shaped  mold  four  inches  wide,  four  inches  deep  and  twelve  inches  long;  fill  it  three-quarters  full 
and  let  the  dough  rise  to  the  level  of  the  edges,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  forty  minutes. 
As  soon  as  done  unmold  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  into  slices  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  by 
three  inches  long  and  one  and  a  quarter  inches  wide.  Range  these  on  a  baking  tin;  sprinkle  the 
tops  lightly  with  sugar  to  which  has  been  added  a  little  ground  cinnamon;  place  in  a  slack  oven 
and  let  glaze  to  a  fine  golden  brown. 

(3268).  FLUTES  OF  BEIOCHE  (Flutes  en  Brioche). 

Take  some  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  hardened  on  ice;  divide  it  into  two-ounce  pieces  and  roll 
each  of  these  into  a  string  on  the  table,  having  them  six  to  seven  inches  long;  range  them  at  once 
on  a  baking  sheet  at  short  distances  apart  and  egg  them  over  twice,  then  cook  in  a  hot  oven,  and 
when  removed  pass  a  knife  under  to  detach  them  from  the  sheet. 

(3269).  BRIOCHES  FOE  BREAKFAST  (Brioches  Pour  le  Dejeuner). 

Small  brioches  can  be  baked  in  small  channeled  molds  or  else  simply  laid  on  a  baking  pan.  In 
both  cases  they  must  be  rolled  into  balls.  Have  some  raised  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  that  has  been 
hardened  on  the  ice;  invert  it  on  a  floured  table  and  shape  it  into  large  rolls;  cut  these  across  into 
equal  pieces  and  mold  them  into  balls  with  the  hands;  lay  them  at  some  distance  apart  on  tins  or 
else  each  one  in  a  separate  mold;  flatten  down  the  center  with  a  damp  finger  and  introduce  into 
this  cavity  a  small  piece  of  the  same  dough  molded  the  shape  of  a  comma;  this  is  to  form  the  head 
of  the  brioche.  Let  the  dough  rest  for  ten  minutes,  then  egg  over  the  brioches  and  bake  them  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  brisk  but  not  too  fierce  oven;  after  removing  keep  them  for  ten  minutes  at 
the  entrance  of  the  oven  before  serving. 

(3270).  ENGLISH  BUNS  AND  HOT  CROSS  BUNS  (Buns  Anglaises  et  Cross  Buns  Chaudes). 

Buns. — Sift  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table  and  with  a  fourth  part  of  it  prepare  a  soft  leaven  by 
forming  a  hollow  or  hole  in  the  center  and  pouring  in  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  yeast  dis- 
solved in  a  little  tepid  water;  shape  it  into  a  ball,  score  a  cross  on  top,  and  lay  it  aside  till  it  has 
risen  to  double  its  size.  Make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  place  in  it  three 
ounces  of  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  three  ounces  of  butter  and  four  eggs;  mix  these  ingredients 
well  together,  incorporating  the  flour  gradually,  and  adding  two  and  a  half  gills  of  milk;  continue 
to  stir,  obtaining  a  soft  and  not  very  consistent  paste;  knead  this  well  for  a  few  moments  to  let 
acquire  a  body,  then  put  with  ittfour  ounces  of  currants  that  have  been  cleansed  and  washed  several 
times  in  warm  water;  also  add  the  leaven,  but  knead  it  slightly  only.  As  soon  as  finished  lay  the  paste 


BREAKFAST    CAKES.  ,  945 

In  a  bowl,  cover  with  a  cloth  and  let  rise  in  a  mild  temperature  until  it  is  a  third  larger  than  its 
original  size,  then  turn  it  over  on  the  floured  table  and  refold  it  on  itself  two  or  three  times;  break 
it  into  pound  pieces  and  roll  these  into  strings  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  cut  into 
lengths  of  an  ounce  each;  mold  them  into  balls,  then  roll  them  into  oval  shapes;  lay  them  as  fast 
as  they  are  done  on  lightly  buttered  tins,  and  leave  them  in  a  mild  temperature  to  rise;  egg  over 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Hot  Cross  Buns. — Prepare  the  dough  exactly  as  for  the  English  buns,  adding  when  it  is  finished 
a  pinch  of  cinnamon  and  grated  nutmeg;  shape  them  into  rounds  instead  of  ovals,  and  egg 
them  over  once.  Just  when  ready  to  put  in  the  oven  make  two  opposite  incisions  on  each  bun  with 
the  tip  of  a  knife  to  form  a  cross.  Bake  at  once  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3271).  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES  WITH  BAKING  POWDER  (Odettes  de  Sarrasin  &  la  Levure  en 

Poudre). 

This  paste  should  be  made  just  when  ready  to  use,  in  the  same  proportions  and  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  buckwheat  cakes  with  yeast  (No.  3272),  only  suppressing  the  yeast.  When  ready 


FIG.  601.  FIG.  602. 

divide  it  into  two  parts,  and  incorporate  into  one  of  these  two  tablespoonfuls  of  baking  powder;  mix 
thoroughly  and  cook  at  once,  proceeding  exactly  as  for  the  others.  As  soon  as  the  first  part  is 
exhausted  put  the  same  quantity  of  baking  powder  into  the  second  part,  and  proceed  precisely  as 
for  the  first. 

(3272).  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES  WITH  YEAST  (Galettes  de  Sarrasin  k  la  Levure). 

Put  a  pound  of  buckwheat  flour  in  a  bowl  with  four  ounces  of  corn  flour,  two  ounces  of  sugar 
and  a  coffeespoonful  of  salt;  dilute  all  these  ingredients  with  a  quart  of  water,  beat  the  mixture 
well  to  have  it  smooth,  then  add  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  tepid 
water;  when  all  has  been  well  stirred  together  cover  the  vessel  with  a  cloth  and  keep  it  in  a  tem- 
perate place  until  the  dough  has  risen  to  double  its  volume,  which  will  take  at  least  four  hours  or  even 
more;  stir  with  a  spoon  and  work  into  it  two  tablespoon fuis  of  molasses;  the  paste  is  now  ready. 
Heat  a  griddle  (Fig.  602),  and  as  soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  hot  and  smokes  rub  it  over  with  a  cloth  and 
butter  with  clarified  butter  or  lard;  pour  on  enough  preparation  to  form  small  cakes  three  and  a 
half  to  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  in  order  to  have  them  round  and 
of  equal  thickness  iron  rings  beveled  on  the  outside  are  used.  When  the  cakes  are  firm  enough, 
which  will  take  about  two  or  three  minutes,  lift  up  the  rings  and  turn  the  cakes  over  to  finish 
cooking  for  two  or  three  minutes  longer.  Dress  them  on  a  very  hot  covered  dish  and  serve  at 
once. 

(3273).   FLANNEL  CAKES  (Galettes  Legeres). 

Place  in  a  bowl  four  ounces  of  butter  and  two  ounces  of  sugar;  work  well  together  to  obtain  a 
creamy  preparation,  then  add  four  whole  eggs  one  by  one,  and  after  the  eggs  are  well  incorporated 
put  in  eight  ounces  of  flour  and  two  gills  of  milk.  Have  the  paste  nice  and  smooth,  and  just  when 
ready  to  use  add  a  tablespoonful  of  baking  powder  mingled  with  an  equal  quantity  of  flour,  then 
finish  cooking  and  serve  exactly  the  same  as  the  buckwheat  cakes  (No.  3272). 

(3274).  INDIAN  CAKES  (Galettos  Indiennes). 

.  Have  in  a  vessel  six  ounces  of  wheat  flour  and  four  ounces  of  corn  flour  sifted  together;  add 
one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one  gill  of  milk.  Mix  well  in  order  to  obtain  a 
smooth  running  paste,  then  pour  in  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  melted  butter.  Just  when  ready  to 
cook  the  cakes  add  to  the  mixture  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  already  mingled  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  finish  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  buckwheat  cakes  (No.  3272).  When  cooked 
dish  and  set  a  cover  on  top,  serving  them  immediately. 


946  TTIE    EPICUREAN. 

(3275).  EIOE  CAKES  (Galettes  au  Eiz). 

Put  in  a  pan  four  ounces  of  wheat  flour  and  four  ounces  of  rice  flour  sifted  together;  make  a 
hollow  in  the  center  and  lay  in  two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  four  eggs  and  one  gill  of  milk; 
work  the  flour  into  the  liquid  and  knead  it  in  such  a  way  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  dough,  then  add 
another  gill  of  milk  and  continue  to  work  it  until  the  paste  is  well  mixed,  then  finally  pour  in  two 
ounces  of  melted  butter  and  also  add  half  a  pint  of  rice,  blanched  and  cooked  till  quite  soft.  Just 
when  ready  to  use  work  it  well  with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
and  when  sufficiently  kneaded  and  the  paste  is  smooth  it  will  be  ready.  Finish  like  buckwheat 
cakes  (No.  3272). 

(3276).  WHEAT  CAKES  (Galettes  au  Proment). 

Mix  in  a  bowl  eight  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little 
salt,  four  eggs  and  two  gills  of  milk;  stir  all  well  together  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste.  Beat  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour  with  as  much  baking  powder,  add  it  to  the  other  ingredients  and  when  well 
mingled,  cook  and  finish  them  the  same  as  buckwheat  cakes  (No.  3272),  serving  them  very  hot. 

(3277).  OOUQUES  (CouquesX 

Lay  a  pound  of  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  in  a  vessel,  place  it  in  the  ice-box,  working  it 
from  time  to  time  to  give  it  plenty  of  body;  when  this  is  firm  put  it  on  a  floured  table  and  divide 
it  in  two  parts;  draw  them  lengthwise  to  form  into  strings  and  cut  each  of  these  into  fifteen  even 
pieces;  form  all  of  them  into  balls  and  shape  them  like  rolls  three  and  a  half  inches  long;  range  on 
a  baking  sheet  slightly  apart,  leave  to  rise  in  a  mild  temperature  and  when  double  their  volume 
egg  over  and  bake  in  a  good  oven.  Just  when  serving  open  them  on  one  side  and  insert  a  little 
good,  slightly  salted  butter.  Send  to  the  table  very  hot. 

(3278).  GEISSINIS  WITH  BUTTEK  (Grissinis  au  Beurre). 

Make  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  a  pound  of  flour  sifted  on  the  table  and  in  it  lay  half  an  ounce 
of  yeast;  dilute  with  a  gill  of  warm  water,  working  in  slowly  a  little  flour  in  order  to  have  a  soft 
paste;  cover  this  with  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  and  let  rise  to  double  the  original  height,  then 
add  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  gill  of  barely  tepid  water;  mix  thoroughly  to  obtain  a  rather  consistent 
dough,  and  finally  add  two  ounces  of  butter;  cover  this  over  with  a  cloth,  and  leave  it  to  rise  for 
twenty-five  minutes,  then  set  it  on  a  floured  table  and  break  it  up  into  small  half-ounce  bits;  mold 
these  into  balls,  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  ten  minutes  before  rolling  them  into  strings  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  diameter;  place  them  at  once  on  lightly  buttered  baking  tins,  and  leave  to  rise  once 
more  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  As  soon  as  they  are  ready  push  into  a  slow  oven  to  bake  to  a  fine 
golden  color. 

(3279).  GEISSINIS  WITH  SUGAE  (Grissinis  au  Sucre). 

Sift  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  and  with  a  fourth  part  of  it,  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and  a 
little  warm  milk  make  a  soft  leaven;  place  this  in  a  deep  vessel,  cover  over  and  let  rise  to  double 
its  height.  Form  a  ring  with  the  remainder  of  the  flour;  in  the  center  put  one  ounce  of  salt, 
two  and  a  half  ounces  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  and  one  gill  of  milk;  mix  all  well  together,  incorporating 
the  flour  slowly  so  as  to  obtain  a  rather  consistent  dough;  knead  this  for  a  few  moments  to  give  it 
body,  then  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  continue  to  knead  until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  worked  in, 
finally  adding  the  prepared  leaven.  Lay  this  dough  in  a  vessel  to  rise  to  double  its  height,  and  then 
place  it  on  a  floured  table  and  break  it  into  pieces,  having  twenty-four  of  them  to  the  pound; 
lengthen  each  piece  into  even-sized  strings  nine  inches  long,  place  on  baking  sheets,  allow  to  rise, 
egg  over  twice,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3280).  OATMEAL;  WHEATEN  GEITS;  HOMINY,  BOILED  (Farine  d'Avoine  Broyee  et  Bouillie; 
Proment  Broye  Bouilli ;  Mai's  Blanc  en  Semoule  Bouilli). 

Boiled  Oatmeal. — Put  two  quarts  of  water  into  a  saucepan;  add  a  coffeespoonful  of  salt  and 
set  it  on  the  fire:  at  the  first  boil  drop  in  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  oatmeal,  letting  it  fall  like 
rain,  and  being  careful  to  stir  continuously  with  a  spatula,  bearing  it  down  on  the  bottom  of  the 
saucepan.  Remove  at  the  first  boil  to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  let  it  continue  to  bubble  for 
twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  it  at  frequent  intervals  with  the  spatula.  Serve  with  fresh  sweet 
cream. 


BREAKFAST    CAKES.  947 

Wheaten  Grits,  Boiled. — Wheat-en  grits  are  cooked  in  the  same  manner  and  in  the  same  pro- 
portions as  the  oatmeal.  Serve  with  fresh  sweet  cream. 

Hominy. — Hominy  is  prepared  exactly  the  same,  using  the  same  proportions  as  the  oatmeal, 
but  it  only  requires  twenty  minutes'  cooking.  Serve  fresh  sweet  cream  at  the  same  time. 

(3281).  POLISH  BLDTES  (Minis  k  la  Polonaise). 

Sift  into  a  pan  half  a  pound  of  wheat  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rye  flour  and  half  a  pound 
of  rice  flour;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center.  Dissolve  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  yeast  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  run  it  through  a  sieve  into  the  hollow  and  incorporate  the  flour  slowly,  also 
five  or  six  eggs  and  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter,  so  as  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste  of  the  same  con- 
sistency as  a  frying  batter.  Cover  the  pan  with  a  cloth  and  keep  it  in  a  mild  temperature  to  raise 
the  paste  to  double  its  original  height,  and  when  this  is  accomplished  beat  in  four  egg-whites  pre- 
viously beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  and  also  the  volume  of  a  pint  of  whipped  cream;  let  this  rise 
once  more  for  twenty  minutes.  Heat  twelve  small  tartlet  molds  made  of  tinned  sheet  iron,  two 
and  a  half  to  three  inches  in  diameter  and  half  an  inch  in  depth;  baste  them  with  melted  butter, 
using  a  brush,  and  fill  them  half  full  with  the  paste;  set  them  in  a  very  hot  oven,  and  as  soon  as 
the  paste  is  well  seized,  remove  and  baste  again  with  butter,  using  a  brush;  turn  them  over  quickly, 
butter  them  on  the  other  side  and  return  to  the  oven.  When  done  dress  on  a  hot  plate  and  serve 
at  once.  These  are  to  be  accompanied  either  with  a  sauce-boat  of  sour  cream  or  melted  butter; 
they  can  also  be  laid  on  a  folded  napkin,  serving  the  cream  or  butter  separate.  Buckwheat  flour 
may  be  used  alone  instead  of  the  three  other  kinds. 

(3282).  ECHAUDES  (Echaudes). 

Arrange  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table;  in  the  center  lay  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  well-crushed  piece  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut,  a 
pinch  of  salt  and  eight  whole  eggs;  mix  all  well  together,  obtaining  a  very  smooth  paste,  but  not 
too  firm,  working  it  so  that  it  attains  considerable  body.  Flatten  this  paste  to  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  thickness  with  the  rolling-pin,  lay  it  on  a  floured  tin  sheet  and  leave  to  rest  for  two  or  three 
hours  in  a  cool  spot.  Invert  this  paste  on  a  lightly  floured  table  and  cut  it  into  pieces;  roll  each  of 
these  to  form  a  spring  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  then  divide  into  three-quarter-inch  lengths. 
Lay  these  cakes  on -their  cut  end  on  a  round  floured  pan  cover;  boil  water  in  a  vessel  larger  than 
this  cover;  at  the  first  boil  take  the  water  from  the  fire,  invert  the  cover  over  and  pour  boiling 
water  on  this  to  detach  the  pieces  of  paste;  return  the  vessel  to  the  fire  without  letting  the  water 
boil,  and  shake  it  about.  As  soon  is  the  pieces  of  paste  rise  to  the  surface  remove  them  with  a 
skimmer  and  throw  into  a  pan  of  fresh  water,  leaving  them  in  for  twelve  hours,  changing  the 
water  every  four  hours;  then  drain,  range  then  at  some  distance  apart  in  hermetically  closed 
hinged  baking  sheets,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes. 

(3283).  TOASTS,  DRY,  BUTTERED,  DIPPED  IN  WATER,  MILK  OR  CREAM  (Tranches  de  Pain 
Grillees,  Beurr6es,  Trempees  Soit  a  1'Eau,  au  Lait  ou  a  la  Creme). 

Dry. — Slices  of  bread  cut  from  square  American  loaves,  about  three  and  a  half  inches  in  size 
by  three-eighths  in  thickness,  laid  on  a  double  broiler  and  toasted  over  a  low  fire,  then  arranged  on 
a  hot  plate. 

Buttered.— After  the  bread  is  toasted  spread  one  side  over  with  butter. 

Dipped  in  Water,  Milk  or  Cream. — Toast  the  bread,  then  lay  the  slices  in  a  deep  dish  and 
moisten  sufficiently  to  cover  the  bread  with  hot  water,  this  being  called  dipped  toast;  or  else  with 
hot  milk,  making  milk  toast;  or  hot  cream,  this  being  called  cream  toast. 

(3284).  WAFFLES  (Gaufres). 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  vessel  with  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt;  beat  well 
with  a  wooden  spoon  to  obtain  a  creamy  mass,  then  break  in  eight  whole  eggs  one  by  one,  stirring 
unceasingly,  now  add  a  pound  of  flour  and  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Put  the  waffle  irons  (Fig.  608)  on 
the  fire,  heat  them  to  a  proper  degree  and  grease  over  with  clarified  butter,  then  take  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  paste  and  stir  into  it  a  small  coffeespoonful  of  baking  powder;  pour  it  into  the 
waffle  irons,  spreading  it  evenly;  close  and  cook  the  waffles  to  a  fine  golden  color,  turning  the  iron 
from  time  to  time.  As  soon  as  the  waffles  are  done,  pare  the  edges,  take  them  out  and  dres?  on  a 
covered  dish,  serving  them  very  hot. 


948  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3285).  WAFFLES  WITH  VANILLA-LIGHT  (Gaufres  Legeres  a  la  Vanille). 
Beat  up  in  a  vessel  half  a  pound  of  partly  melted  butter,  and  when  creamy  mix  in  slowly  seven 
or  eight  egg-yolks;  after  the  preparation  becomes  frothy  add  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  sugar, 
a  grain  of  salt  and  half  an  ounce  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  two  gills  of  milk;  cover  the  vessel 
and  keep  it  in  a  mild  temperature.  When  the  dough  is  raised  work  and  let  get  cold,  then  incorpo- 
rate into  it  four  or  five  beaten  egg-whites.  Heat  a  deep  waffle  iron,  butter  it  over  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  melted  butter  and  putting  a  spoonful  of  the  paste  on  one  side  of  the  iron  only,  close  and  cook 
the  waffles  over  a  low  fire,  turning  the  iron  frequently;  when  dry  and  a  fine  golden  color  take  it  out 
of  the  form  and  sprinkle  fine  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  over  the  top. 


SMALL  CAKES  FOE  ENTEEMETS  (Petits  Gateaux  d' Entremets), 


Cakes  ten  to  a  pound. 

(3286).  APPLE  CAKE  (Gateau  aux  Pommes). 

Prepare  a  frolle  paste  (No.  136);  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  on  ice  for  twenty  minutes.  Cut  about 
fifteen  good  apples  in  four,  peel,  shred  them  small  and  cook  partially,  while  tossing  them  over  a 
brisk  fire,  in  a  pan  with  some  butter,  sugar  and  vanilla  added,  then  set  aside  to  cool.  Roll  out  two- 
thirds  of  the  paste,  not  too  thin,  four  inches  wide  and  about  the  length  of  the  baking  sheet  on  a 
floured  table;  roll  it  over  the  rolling-pin  to  unroll  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cut  it  away  straight;  sur- 
round the  edges  with  a  narrow  raised  rim,  and  put  in  a  moderate  oven  to  half  bake  and  leave  till 
quite  cold.  Then  fill  the  center  with  the  cooked  apples  and  finish  exactly  the  same  as  the  goose- 
berry cakes  'No.  3309). 

(3287).  APKIOOTS  WITH  OKEAM  OF  ALMONDS  (Abricots  a  la  Oreme  d'Amandes). 

Line  a  few  tartlet  molds  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  fill  them  level  to  the  top  with 
almond  frangipane  (No.  44),  and  lay  a  well-drained  competed  half  apricot  (No.  3691;  over  each; 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  done  and  partly  cold  dress  an  imitation  apricot  made  of  Italian 
meringue  (No.  140)  on  top  of  each  one.  Place  them  again  in  the  oven  to  dry  the  meringue,  and 
then  let  cool.  When  cold  glaze  over  with  a  yellow  rum  icing  (No.  102),  fasten  a  stalk  of  angelica 
into  each,  and  rub  each  one  with  a  little  carmine  on  cotton  to  color  it. 

(3288).  BABAS  WITH  RUM-SMALL  (Petits  Babas  au  Rhum). 

Cut  two  ounces  of  candied  fruits  into  small  dice,  such  as  citron,  orange  peel,  preserved  pears 
and  a  few  cherries;  add  to  them  as  many  currants  and  raisins  well  washed  in  hot  water,  picked  and 
cleaned.  Prepare  a  small  baba  paste  as  described  in  No.  129,  and  when  ready  to  mold  stir  in  the 
fruits.  Butter  some  small  baba  molds,  fill  them  half  full  with  the  paste,  and  leave  to  rise;  when 
entirely  full  push  into  a  hot  oven  to  bake;  unmold  as  soon  as  done,  and  dip  them  into  a  hot  thirty- 
two  degree  syrup  well  flavored  with  vanilla  and  rum  (No.  102). 

(3289).  BISCUITS  IN  OASES  WITH  OKEAM  (Biscuits  en  Oaisses  a  la  Oreme). 
Choose  eight  fresh  eggs;  break  the  whites  into  a  basin  and  the  yolks  into  a  bowl;  into  the 
latter  mingle  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  flavored  with  grated  lemon  peel  (No.  3165),  and  beat  it 
up  with  a  spoon  until  it  becomes  white;  add  a  grain  of  salt  to  the  whites,  beating  them  very  stiff, 
and  mix  them  slowly  with  the  yolks,  sifting  four  ounces  of  good  flour  over  the  whole;  lastly  add 
a  gill  of  well-drained  whipped  cream,  and  with  this  preparation  fill  some  oblong  paper  cases  (Fig. 
548)  three-quarters  full;  range  them  on  a  thin  baking  sheet,  glaze  the  surfaces  with  fine  sugar, 
and  cook  for  twenty -five  minutes  in  a  slack  oven. 

(3290).  BANANA  BOATS  (Bateaux  de  Bananes). 

Line  ten  boat-shaped  tartlet  molds  with  sweet  paste  (No.  136),  and  cook  them  white.  Peel  ten 
small,  ripe,  short  bananas,  cut  off  both  ends  and  plunge  the  fruit  into  a  boiling  twenty-five  degree 
syrup;  remove  the  pan  at  once  from  the  fire,  and  let  the  bananas  cool  off  in  this  syrup,  then  drain. 
Cover  the  insidesof  the  unmolded  boats  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  lay  in  each  one  half 
a  banana,  the  rounded  surface  uppermost,  brushing  it  over  several  times  with  vanilla  apple  syrup; 
garnish  both  sides  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668). 


SMALL    CAKES    FOR    ENTREMETS.  949 

(3291).  BOATS,  PRINTANIER  (Bateaux  Printaniers). 

Line  a  dozen  boat-shaped  tartlet  molds  with  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135);  cook  them  white, 
unmold  and  leave  till  cold,  then  cover  the  insides  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  the  pulp  of  four  or  five  sound  oranges,  mix  in  with  their  juice  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  strawberry  pulp,  and  two  or  three  gills  of  thick  syrup  flavored  with  orange  peel  (No. 
3165)  and  a  little  isinglass  added.  Stir  the  preparation  on  ice,  work  it  well  to  a  cream,  and  then 
mix  in  at  once  about  half  a  pound  of  small,  very  fresh-picked  strawberries;  roll  them  well  in  with 
the  above,  then  take  some  up  with  a  spoon  and  fill  the  small  boats,  having  them  well-rounded  on 
top;  smoth  this  into  a  dome  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  freshly  made  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675);  let  this  dry  in  the  air  for  ten  minutes,  then  decorate  the  summits  quickly  with  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  whipped  cream  pushed  through  a  cornet,  having  it  well  drained  and  only  slightly  sweetened, 

(3292).  CANNELONS  A  LA  CELESTINE  (Oannelons  a  la  Celestine). 

Roll  out  some  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  cut  this  into  five- 
eighths  of  an  inch  wide  bands,  each  fourteen  inches  long;  egg  them  over,  and  roll  them  spirally 
around  some  cornucopia-shaped  molds  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  and  three  inches  long;  as  they 
are  done  set  on  a  baking  sheet,  then  place  this  in  a  hot  oven.  When  partly  cooked  dredge  with 
powdered  sugar,  and  finish  baking;  when  cooked  unmold  and  leave  to  get  cold.  When  serving 
fill  each  one  with  whipped  cream  into  which  mix  some  pastry  cream  with  vanilla  (No.  46),  crushed 
macaroons  and  currant  jelly  (No.  3670). 

(3293).  CASINOS  (Casinos). 

For  these  cakes  take  puff  paste  made  at  six  turns  (No.  146),  having  it  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick;  cut  half  of  the  rolled-out  layer  in  two-inch  in  diameter  rounds  with  a  channeled  pastry 
cutter  (Fig.  16),  and  range  them  on  a  slightly  dampened  baking  sheet,  then  egg  over.  Diviue  the 
other  half  of  the  layer  into  the  same  number  of  rounds,  but  only  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter; 
empty  the  centers  of  these  with  a  pastry  cutter  an  inch  in  diameter  so  as  to  form  into  rings,  then 
lay  them  on  top  of  the  rounds;  egg  over  lightly  and  decorate  the  surface  of  each  one  with  a 
rosette  of  fine  halved  almonds  burnt  with  egg-white  and  sugar,  and  then  bake  the  cakes  in  a  hot 
oven.  When  done  fill  the  center  holes  with  orange  or  quince  jelly. 

(3294).  OEEAM  CAKES  ICED  WITH  CHOCOLATE,  VANILLA  OE  OOPFEE  (Choux  a  la  Creme 

Glaces  an  Chocolat,  a  la  Vanille  ou  au  Caf6). 

On  a  lightly  buttered  baking  sheet  lay  some  small  round  cream  cakes  made  of  cream  cake 
paste  (No.  132)  pushed  through  a  pocket  (Fig.  179);  egg  over  and  set  into  a  medium  oven  to  cook; 
detach  them  from  the  pan  as  soon  as  done,  and  when  cold  split  through  the  sides  and  fill  with 
vanilla  pastry  cream  (No.  46)  and  ice  over  with  chocolate,  vanilla  or  coffee  fondant  (No.  58),  the 
same  as  eclairs. 

(3295).  CREAM  CAKES  WITH  BURNT  ALMONDS  AND  GLAZED  CREAM  CAKES  (Ohoux 

Pralines  et  Ohoux  Glace"s). 

Lay  on  a  baking  sheet  about  twelve  small  cream  cakes  (No.  3296);  egg  over  and  lay  on  each  a 
small  pinch  of  shredded  or  chopped  almonds,  and  cover  these  with  a  pinch  of  powdered  sugar;  cook 


FIQ.  603.  FIG.  604.  FIG.  (305. 

the  cakes  in  a  slack  oven  and  when  they  become  cold  open  and  fill  them  either  with  apricot  mar- 
malade (No.  3675),  currant  (No.  3670),  quince  (No.  3672)  or  apple  jelly  (No.  3668),  or  else  with 
Chantilly  cream  (No.  50)  or  St.  Honore  cream  (No.  49). 

To  Glaze  the  Cream  Cakes  take  them  up  one  by  one  and  dip  the  upper  parts  into  sugar  cooked  to 
"crack"  (No.  171),  then  lay  them  at  once  on  a  wire  grate  to  drain  off  the  surplus  sugar.  These 
can  also  be  filled  with  pastry  cream  (No.  46)  flavored  with  vanilla,  orange  or  orange  flower  water. 


950  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3296).  OEEAM  CAKES  WITH  WHIPPED  CKEAM  OE  ST.  HONORE  OEEAM  (Chonx  a  la  Creme 

Pouette'e  on  a  la  Crime  St.  Honore"). 

With  some  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132)  pushed  through  a  socket  pocket  dress  on  a  lightly  buttered 
baking  sheet  some  small  round  cakes,  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  cover  over  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  leave  stand  for  a  few  moments,  then  remove  all  the  sugar  that  has  failed  to  adhere 
to  the  paste;  push  into  a  very  slack  oven  to  cook.  Detach  them  from  the  pan  as  soon  as  done  and 
split  open  the  side  to  fill  with  pastry  cream  (No.  46),  or  whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla  (No. 
50).  They  can  also  be  filled  through  the  top  by  making  an  opening  and  placing  the  cover  on 
upside  down.  Push  a  small  string  of  royal  icing  (No.  101)  around  the  edge  all  around  the  opening. 
Dredge  over  some  fine  pink  colored  sugar  (No.  172)  and  fill  the  insides  with  St.  Honore  cream  (No. 
49)  pushed  in  through  a  pocket. 

(3297).  CONDE  CAKES  (Gateaux  Cond6). 

Mix  in  a  vessel  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  chopped  almonds  with  an  equal  quantity  of  powdered 
sugar;  wet  slowly  with  egg-whites  so  as  to  obtain  a  thin  but  not  too  flowing  paste.  Koll  out  some 
fragments  of  puff  paste  (No.  146)  into  long  strips,  three  and  a  half  inches  wide;  cover  the  tops 
with  the  almond  preparation  and  cut  the  sides  straight,  then  cut  them  across  in  one-inch  wide 
pieces;  take  them  up  one  at  a  time  on  the  blade  of  a  palette  knife  and  range  in  straight  rows  on  a 
baking  sheet,  slightly  apart  from  each  other.  Besprinkle  the  cakes  with  tine  sugar  and  cook  in  a 
slack  oven;  remove  when  nicely  done  by  passing  a  knife  under  to  detach  from  the  pan. 

(3298).  CRESCENTS  WITH  PRESERVES  (Croissants  anx  Confitures). 

In  order  to  make  these  crescents  it  is  necessary  to  have  two  cutters:  a  round  channeled  pastry 
cutter  (Fig.  16)  and  a  smooth  unchanneled  pastry  cutter  the  shape  of  a  crescent,  but  much  smaller 
than  the  first  one.  Roll  out  some  puff  paste  made  to  eight  turns  (No.  146)  into  eighth  of  an  inch 
in  thickness;  from  this  cut  some  channeled  rounds  four  inches  in  diameter  and  with  the  same 
pastry  cutter  cut  the  rounds  into  crescent-shaped  pieces.  Range  half  of  these  crescents  slightly 
apart  from  each  other  on  a  moist  baking  sheet  and  wet  the  tops  over  with  a  brush;  empty  out  those 
remaining  with  the  small  and  smooth  crescent-shaped  pastry  cutter  and  lay  them  on  top  of  those 
already  prepared  so  that  they  cover  them  exactly;  egg  over  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven  without 
glazing.  When  removed  press  the  paste  on  the  empty  part  and  when  these  crescents  are  cold  glaze 
them  lightly  with  icing  (No.  102),  using  a  brush,  and  press  them  on  chopped  pistachios.  Fill  the 
empty  place  in  the  crescents  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668)  or  else  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675). 

(3299).  DARIOLES  DUCHESS  (Darioles  a  la  Duchesse). 

Have  in  a  vessel  one  ounce  of  flour,  two  whole  eggs,  six  yolks  and  four  ounces  of  sugar,  dilut- 
ing with  one  pint  of  cream;  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve  and  add  to  it  six  crushed  macaroons. 
Line  a  dozen  buttered  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  into  the  bottom  of 
each  place  a  little  finely  cut-up  candied  fruits,  fill  them  with  the  preparation  and  on  all  lay  a  small 
piece  of  fresh  butter;  sift  the  tops  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven;  when  the  paste  is  well 
cooked,  unmold  on  wire  grates  to  cool. 

(3300).  DARIOLES  WITH  ORANGE  FLOWER  WATER  (Darioles  a  1'eau  de  Pleur  d'Oranger). 

Line  twelve  buttered  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  rolled  out  thin. 
Put  into  a  basin  one  gill  of  flour  and  two  ounces  of  sugar,  dilute  with  two  whole  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water  and  three  gills  of  milk;  stir  well  and  run  the  preparation  through 
a  fine  colander;  use  it  to  fill  the  molds,  putting  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  on  the  top  of  each. 
Dredge  over  with  sugar  and  bake  in  the  oven,  unmolding  as  soon  as  they  are  done. 

(3301).  DARIOLES  WITH  VANILLA  (Darioles  a  la  Vanille). 

Break  three  eggs  in  a  vessel,  beat  and  add  one  gill  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  as  much  flour, 
the  same  proportion  of  dried  almonds  and  a  grain  of  salt,  diluting  with  three  gills  of  good  milk. 
Butter  twelve  timbale  molds  (No.  1,  Fig.  137)  and  line  them  with  puff  paste  parings  (No. 
146)  and  place  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  the  bottom  of  each,  then  fill  with  the  above  preparation. 
Lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven  for  half  an  hour;  five  minutes  before  taking 
out  bestrew  the  tops  with  vanilla  sugar  and  allow  them  to  cool  off  before  unmolding. 


SMALJL,   CAKES  FOR  ENTREMETS.  951 

(3302),  D'AETOIS  CAKE  WITH  APEIOOT  MAEMALADE  OE  ALMOND  CEEAM  (Gateau  D'Artois 
a  la  Marmelade  d'Abricots  ou  a  la  Creme  d'Amandes). 

Roll  some  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  into  a  layer  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness 
and  cut  this  into  two  bands,  each  three  inches  wide-  Lay  one  of  these  bands  on  a  baking  sheet 
and  cover  the  center  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  or  almond  cream  (No.  40);  moisten  the 
edges  of  the  paste  with  a  brush  dipped  in  water,  then  cover  with  the  second  band;  pare  them 
straight,  scallop  the  edges  and  mark  the  band  across  one  and  a  quarter  inches  apart  with  a  knife; 
within  this  space  place  leaves  formed  with  the  tip  of  the  blade  of  a  small  knife.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven  and  when  the  cake  is  nearly  done  dredge  with  sugar  and  finish  cooking  and  glazing.  Cut  it 
through  the  divided  sections  with  a  large  sharp  knife. 


(3303).  ECLAIES,  OOPPEE  AND  CHOCOLATE  CEEAM  (Eclairs  au  Cafe"  on  an  Chocolat), 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  water,  a  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  two 
ounces  of  sugar  and  some  salt;  place  it  on  the  fire.  When  the  liquid  begins  to  boil  remove  the 
saucepan  and  incorporate  into  it  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  mixing  it  in  quickly  with  a  spatula; 
return  the  saucepan  to  the  fire  and  continue  to  work  the  paste  vigorously  for  a  few  moments  in 
order  to  dry  and  have  it  smooth,  and  when  it  detaches  from  the  bottom 
of  the  saucepan  take  it  off  the  fire  and  leave  it  for  a  second  to  fall  below 
boiling  heat,  then  incorporate  into  it  slowly  two  whole  eggs,  stirring  in  well 
with  the  spatula.  As  these  are  well  mixed  add  two  more,  and  continue  FIQ.  606. 

this  operation  until  the  paste  has  absorbed  fourteen  or  sixteen  eggs.  With  this  paste  fill  three- 
quarters  full  a  linen  pocket  furnished  with  a  three-eighths  of  an  inch  diameter  socket  (Fig.  179),  and 
lay  the  eclairs  through  it  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  at  short  distances  from  each  other,  on  a 
lightly  buttered  baking  sheet;  egg  over  the  tops  and  cook  them  in  a  slow  oven.  When  done  take 
them  from  the  baking  sheet  and  split  them  through  the  sides,  either  with  a  small  knife  or  a  pair  of 
scissors,  and  fill  them  up  with  vanilla  pastry  cream  (No.  46).  Immediately  dip  them  to  half  their 
depth  into  chocolate  or  coffee  icing  (No.  99)  and  lay  them  on  a  wire  grate  to  drain  and  dry  the 
icing.  Place  an  instant  at  the  oven  door  to  gloss. 

(3304).  ECLAIES,  VANILLA  CHANTLLLY  (Eclairs  Ohantilly  a  la  Vanille). 
Boil  two  gills  of  water  in  a  saucepan  with  a  grain  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  four 
ounces  of  butter;  as  soon  as  the  butter  rises  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  incorporate  into  it 
five  ounces  of  flour;  beat  the  paste  with  a  spoon  until  smooth,  then  stir  it  once  more  over  a  moder- 
ate fire  until  it  detaches  from  the  saucepan;  this  is  called  drying;  take  it  off  and  let  get  partly  cold. 
Then  mix  into  it  four  or  five  egg-yolks,  one  after  the  other,  continuing  to  stir  vigorously,  and  lastly 
add  two  ounces  more  butter.  Pour  the  paste  into  a  pocket  (Fig.  179),  having  a  three  eighths  of 
an  inch  socket,  and  push  it  on  a  baking  sheet  in  regular  rows  of  eclairs,  each  one  three  inches  long 
and  a  short  distance  apart;  egg  over  and  cook  until  they  become  perfectly  dry.  After  removing 
from  the  oven  detach  from  the  sheet  with  the  blade  of  a  thin  knife.  When  the  eclairs  are 
cold  split  them  through  the  bottom,  open  and  fill  with  sweet  whipped  cream  flavored  well  with 
vanilla  (No.  50);  cover  the  tops  of  the  cakes  with  a  little  light  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675) 
with  vanilla  icing  (No.  102).  As  soon  as  the  cakes  are  iced  range  them  on  a  pastry  grate,  and  place 
at  the  entrance  of  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  glaze. 

(3305).  FEANGILLON  CAKES  (Gateaux  Prancillon). 

These  are  prepared  with  one  pound  of  peeled  sweet  almonds,  fourteen  ounces  of  clarified  butter 
kneaded  with  twenty  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  also  four  and  a  half  ounces  of  flour,  two 
ounces  of  fecula,  ten  or  twelve  egg-yolks,  seven  or  eight  beaten  whites,  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Pound 
the  almonds  with  one  egg-white,  dilute  with  a  glassful  of  good  milk,  and  pass  through  a  sieve;  put 
the  butter  into  a  vessel,  and  with  a  spoon  beat  in  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  When  the  whole  is  creamy 
mix  in  the  sugar,  the  almonds,  the  beaten  whites,  and  the  sifted  flour  and  fecula.  Line  a  thin 
raised-edge  baking  sheet  with  sweet  paste  (No.  136),  pour  in  the  preparation,  smooth  nicely  and  bake 
in  a  slack  oven;  when  unmolded  and  cold  brush  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  over  the  top,  and 
cut  it  into  small  cakes  without  separating  the  pieces;  ice  the  surface  with  kirsch  icing  (No.  102), 
and  detach  from  each  other  only  when  this  becomes  dry,  then  dress. 


953  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3306).  GALETTES  PUPPED  AND  HALF  PUPPED  (Galettes  Feuilletees  et  Demi-Feuilletees). 

Arrange  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  circle  on  a  table;  in  the  center  put  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  and  sufficient  water  to  form  a  smooth  but  not  too  consistent  paste;  leave  it  for  some 
time,  then  roll  it  out  to  the  thickness  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch;  on  the  middle  of  it  place  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  wrap  it  in  the  paste,  and  roll  it  once  more;  give  five  and  a  half  turns 
to  this  paste,  mold  it  into  small  balls  weighing  three  ounces,  then  to  a  perfect  round  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  in  thickness;  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  egg  over,  trace  lines  on  top  to  form  a  lattice 
work,  festoon  all  around  with  a  small  kitchen  knife,  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven.  Half  puffed 
galettes  are  made  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146). 


(3307).  GENOESE  CAKE-LIGHT  (Genoise  Legere). 

Put  twelve  whole  eggs  and  eight  yolks  into  a  basin  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  a  part  of  it  being 
flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  179);  beat  together  vigorously  for  twenty  minutes  on  a  slow  fire,  barely 
heating  the  preparation,  and  when  well  beaten  and  very  light  mix  in  lightly  one  pound  of  sifted 
flour,  using  a  small  skimmer  or  spoon,  then  half  a  pound  of  melted  fresh  butter  added  a  little  at  a 
time.  Butter  lightly  a  pan  twelve  inches  long  by  seven  and  a  half  wide  and  two  inches  deep; 
glaze  it  with  flour  and  sugar,  half  and  half,  well  mixed  together  and  sifted  through  a  sieve.  Fill 
the  pan  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation,  lay  it  in  a  baking  pan  and  place  it  in  a  slack  oven 
to  bake  for  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes.  As  soon  as  the  cake  is  done,  remove  and  unmold  it  on  a 
wire  grate  to  get  cold;  afterward  cover  it  lightly  with  well-reduced  peach  or  apricot  jam  (No.  8675) 
and  ice  over  with  water  icing  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  102);  place  for  an  instant  at  the  entrance 
of  the  oven  to  dry  the  icing;  allow  to  cool;  cut  the  Genoese  cake  into  oblong  pieces  and  serve. 

This  cake  can  also  be  made  in  a  round  mold  and  iced  exactly  the  same,  decorating  the  top 
with  candied  fruits;  dress  on  a  round  plate  ornamented  with  lace  paper. 


(3308).  GENOESES  WITH  CREAM  MEBINGUED  (Genoises  a  la  Oreme  Meringues). 
Butter  and  flour  some  tartlet  molds,  fill  them  with  Genoese  preparation  (No.  3307)  and  cook 
in  a  slack  oven;  unmold  as  soon  as  done  and  when  cold  hollow  out  the  centers.  Fill  the  cakes 
with  a  St.  Honore  cream  preparation  (No.  49)  flavored  with  orange;  color  it  lightly  with  a  little 
green;  cover  this  with  meringue  (No.  140)  laid  on  in  beads  pushed  through  a  pocket;  spread  fine 
sugar  over  this  and  place  in  the  oven  to  color  the  meringue. 


(3309).  GOOSEBERRY  CAKES  AND  TARTS  (Gateaux  et  Tartes  anx  Groseilles  Vertes). 
Prepare  a  tart  paste  (No.  149)  with  one  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
five  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  two  whole  eggs,  three  yolks,  salt  and  lemon  flavoring.  Divide  this 
paste  into  two  parts  and  roll  them  out  separately  into  oblong  layers  not  too  thin;  roll  one  of  these 
on  the  pin  to  unroll  on  a  large  baking  sheet,  cutting  off  the  four  sides  evenly,  and  edge  it  with  a 
small  band  of  the  paste  laid  on  higher,  forming  a  border  of  half  an  inch  ;  prick  the  paste.  Cook 
this  flat  till  it  is  half  done  in  a  very  slack  oven,  not  allowing  it  to  brown,  then  take  it  out  and  let 
get  cold.  Fill  the  hollow  as  high  up  as  the  border  with  blanched  gooseberries  without  boiling,  so 
that  they  remain  whole;  smooth  them  evenly  and  egg  over  the  raised  border.  Roll  the  second  flat 
on  the  rolling-pin  and  unroll  it  on  top  of  the  other;  press  down  the  edges,  fastening  them  together, 
and  egg  the  surface.  Lay  the  baking  sheet  on  top  of  another  and  push  the  two  into  a  slack  oven 
(the  second  one  is  to  prevent  the  half-cooked  paste  from  burning).  When  the  top  paste  is  well  dried 
remove  from  the  fire  and  glaze  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  fondant  flavored  with  lemon  (No.  58);  let 
get  cold,  then  cut  the  cake  into  three  and  a  half  inch  wide  strips  and  these  across  in  such  a  way  as 
to  obtain  oblong  pieces.  Round  tarts  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

(3310).  GORONPLOTS  (Goronflots). 

Butter  some  small  tin  hexagonal-shaped  molds  with  clarified  butter;  fill  them  about  three-quar- 
ters full  with  Savarin  paste  (No.  148);  stand  them  in  a  mild  temperature  to  have  the  paste  rise  as 
high  as  the  edge,  then  cook  in  a  moderate  oven.  Remove  and  unmold  as  soon  as  done;  leave  to 
cool  and  afterward  dip  each  one  in  a  syrup  of  almond  milk  (No.  4)  with  kirsch. 


SMALL    CAKES    FOR    ENTREMETS.  953 

(3311).  JEALOUSIES  (Jalousies). 

Koll  out  some  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  this  into  three- 
inch  wide  bands;  lay  half  of  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and  mask  the  whole  length  of  the  center  with 
apple  marmalade  (No.  3674);  wet  the  edges  and  cover  over  with  the  remaining  bands, 
scored  as  follows:  Fold  the  bands  in  two,  cut  them  from  the  folded  side,  this  cut  to  be  one  inch 
long,  the  same  as  the  bands  for  scored  favors.  Egg  the  tops,  mark  them  across  with  the  tip  of  a 
small  knife,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  After  the  cakes  are  done  bestrew  with  powdered  sugar, 
return  for  a  moment  to  the  fire  to  have  it  melt,  then  divide  the  cakes. 

(3312).  EOLLED  JELLY  BISCUIT  (Biscuit  Eoule  a  la  Gele"e). 

To  make  this  cake  use  lady  finger  preparation  (No.  3377),  adding  a  little  melted  butter;  as  soon  as 
this  is  mixed  in  pour  the  whole  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  and  spread  it  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  layer,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven;  remove  when  done,  detach  from  the  paper  and  cover  the  sur- 
face of  the  cake  with  a  layer  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  then  roll  it  over  on  itself  to  form  a  roll;  wrap 
this  up  in  paper  and  leave  to  cool.  When  thoroughly  cold  undo  the  paper  and  stand  the  cake  on  a 
wire  grate;  ice  it  over  with  vanilla  icing  (No.  102).  After  this  becomes  very  dry  cut  the  cake  into  cross- 
wise slices,  each  one  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick.  The  rolled  biscuit  may  also  be  covered  with 
a  layer  of  Conde  almond  preparation  (No.  2),  marking  it  in  the  places  where  the  cake  is  to  be  sliced. 
Set  the  roll  in  the  oven  for  an  instant  to  color,  then  cut  the  cake  in  the  marked  places. 

(3313).  LAFAYETTE  WITH  BUM  (Lafayette  au  Ehum). 

Pound  six  ounces  of  almonds  with  six  ounces  of  sugar  to  reduce  to  a  powder,  then  sift  it 
through  a  sieve;  place  this  powder  in  a  basin  with  six  eggs  and  beat  till  light,  then  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  rum,  an  ounce  of  flour  and  four  ounces  of  melted  butter.  Pour  the  preparation 
into  tartlet  molds  lined  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146),  strew  the  tops  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven.  Cover  the  tops  with  a  thin  layer  of  icing  flavored  with  rum  (No.  102). 

(3314).  MADELEINES  AND  GENOESE  MADELEINES  (Madeleines  et  Madeleines  G^noises). 

Place  in  a  vessel  nine  ounces  of  sugar,  nine  ounces  of  warm  melted  butter,  seven  ounces  of 
flour,  five  whole  eggs,  four  yolks,  two  spoonfuls  of  brandy,  a  grain  of  salt  and  some  sugar  flavored 
with  lemon  peel  (No.  3165).  Stir  the  ingredients  well  with  a  spoon  and  heat  the  preparation  for 
two  minutes  without  ceasing  to  stir,  then  fill  some  buttered  Madeleine  molds  two-thirds  full; 
bake  them  in  a  slack  oven. 

Genoese  Madeleines  are  made  with  eighteen  ounces  of  sugar,  eighteen  ounces  of  flour,  eighteen 
ounces  of  melted  butter,  eight  egg-yolks,  eight  beaten  whites,  some  chopped,  lemon  peel,  four  spoon- 
fuls of  rum  and  a  grain  of  salt;  fill  buttered  Madeleine  molds,  bake,  finish  and  serve  as  above. 

(3315).  GOMMEEOY  MADELEINES  (Madeleines  de  Commercy). 

Have  in  a  bowl  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound  of  flour,  ten  egg-yolks  and  the  peel  of  one 
lemon;  mix  well  without  beating  and  add  a  pound  of  melted  butter  and  finally  eight  beaten  egg- 
whites.  Butter  some  long  shell-shaped  molds,  flour  over  and  fill  three-quarters  full  with  this 
preparation;  strew  sugar  on  top  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven.  As  soon  as  baked  unmold  on  a 
wire  grate  and  serve  when  cold. 

(3316).  MADELEINES  WITH  BUM  (Madeleines  an  Ehum). 

Beat  half  a  pound  of  sugar  with  six  eggs  and  a  tablespoonful  of  orange  flower  water;  when 
it  is  slightly  frothy  add  half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter.  Butter 
and  flour  three  dozen  Madeleine  molds  and  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation,  strew 
sugar  over  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven;  unmold  at  once  and  ice  with  rum 
fondant  (No.  58). 

(3317).  MAEILLAN  CAKES  (Gateaux  Marillan). 

Bake  a  baba  in  a  flat  mold  having  a  cover,  or  else  in  a  tin  mold  covered 
with  another.  Moisten  the  crust  lightly  with  baba  syrup  rNo.  3227)  and  cut 
it  two-thirds  across  without  detaching  it  at  the  further  end;  empty  the  crumbs  Fio.  607. 

out  partly  and  fill  this  double  crust  with  flavored  whipped  cream  or  else  with  smooth  cooked 
Italian  cream  (No.  140).  The  top  and  around  the  base  of  the  cake  should  be  covered  with 
liquid  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  laid  on  with  a  brush. 


954  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3318).  MAES  CAKES  (Gateaux  Mars). 

Roll  out  some  foundation  paste  (No.  135)  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  this  int« 
three-inch  wide  bands  and  cover  these  with  a  layer  of  almond  cream  (No.  40)  mixed  with  as  much 
vanilla  pastry  cream  (No.  46) ;  bake  in  a  slow  oven,  and  when  done  and  cold  mask  over  with  a 
layer  of  meringue  (No.  140),  having  it  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick;  smooth  the  sides  and  tops  well. 
Slit  these  bands  across  one  inch  and  a  quarter  apart  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife  and  decorate  each 
section  with  halved  almonds  or  thin  slices  of  almonds  cut  lengthwise  and  laid  on  symmetrically  in 
imitation  of  branches,  having  a  dry  currant  between  each  one.  Cut  the  cakes  where  they  have  been 
slit,  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  dredge  with  sugar  and  set  into  a  slack  oven  to  color  the  merin- 
gue; the  bands  may  be  left  whole  and  divided  where  they  were  slit  while  yet  hot. 

(3319).  NOUGAT  OF  APEIOOTS  (Nougat  d'Abricots). 

Make  a  band  of  brioche  paste  (No.  130)  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  and  three  inches  wide;  raise  up 
the  edges  to  form  a  border,  fill  this  entirely  with  consistent  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven;  after  it  is  done  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  shredded  almonds  mixed  with  white 
of  egg  and  sugar  and  return  it  to  the  oven  to  color  the  almonds;  as  soon  as  finished  take  it  out  and 
cut  the  cake  across  in  inch  pieces,  laying  them  aside  on  a  wire  grate  to  cool. 

(3320).  PALMS  (Palmiers). 

Have  some  puff  paste  made  to  four  turns  (No.  146);  give  it  four  more,  dredging  each  one  with 
sugar;  at  the  very  last  one  roll  out  the  paste  to  obtain  a  six-inch  wide  band  and  fold  this  into  four  on 
its  length,  making  it  join  on  to  the  first  two  that  wei'e  folded,  the  two  lateral  ends  being  in  the  center, 
and  then  another  fold  doubling  up  the  band.  Cut  this  into  transversal  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  and  range  them  on  a  baking  sheet  an  inch  and  a  half  apart,  laying  them  down  flat;  sift  pow- 
dered sugar  over  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven;  as  soon  as  done  detach  from  the  sheet. 

(3321).  PAKISTAN  OAEES  (Gateaux  Parisiens). 

Lay  a  band  of  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  three  and  a  half  inches  wide  by  twelve  inches  long  on  a 
baking  sheet;  on  the  edges  place  small  narrow  bands  of  the  same  or  else  twist  the  edge  to  form  a 
border;  fill  it  with  vanilla  pastry  cream  (No.  46);  prick  the  bottom  and  push  into  a  hot  oven.  As 
soon  as  done  remove  the  band  and  allow  to  cool.  Then  cover  with  a  preparation  made  of  very 
lightly  beaten  royal  icing  (No.  101)  into  which  shredded  almonds  have  been  mixed;  dredge  over 
with  sugar;  cut  into  crosswise  slices  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  size;  place  these  on  a  baking  sheet, 
then  in  the  oven  to  color;  remove  and  stand  on  a  wire  grate  to  get  perfectly  cold. 

(3322).  EICE  CAKES  (Gateaux  au  Eiz). 

Line  a  few  oval-shaped  timbale  molds,  the  size  of  the  mold  shown  in  No.  1,  Fig.  137,  with  puff 
paste  parings  (No.  146);  cover  the  bottoms  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  fill  up  with  a  mel- 
low rice  cooked  with  cream  (No.  160)  and  flavored  with  vanilla,  finishing  it  with  a  few  egg-yolks;  on 
each  place  a  little  butter;  push  the  cakes  into  the  oven,  and  when  done  unmold  and  mask  them 
over  with  a  layer  of  apricot  marmalade,  or  powder  with  icing-sugar. 

(3323).  EOUEN  MIELITONS  (Mirlitons  de  Eouen), 

Beat  well  together  three  eggs,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water  and  three 
gills  of  cream;  strain  the  whole  through  a  colander.  Pour  it  into  tartlet  molds  lined  with  puff 
paste  parings  (No.  146),  dredge  with  sugar  and  push  carefully  info  a  hot  oven  to  bake. 

(3S24).  SMALL  SAVAEINS  (Petits  Savarins). 

Butter  some  Savarin  molds,  dredge  shredded  almonds  on  the  bottom  and  fill  half  full  with 
Savarin  paste  (No.  148);  let  rise  in  a  mild  temperature  until  the  molds  are  full,  then  place  them 
in  a  brisk  oven  to  bake;  unmold  as  soon  as  removed  and  dip  them  in  a  syrup  made  as  follows* 
Into  five  gills  of  thirty-two  degree  cold  syrup,  add  one  gill  of  kirsch,  half  a  gill  of  maraschino,  half  a 
gill  of  noyau  and  half  a  gill  of  Curacoa;  warm  this  syrup  and  then  dip  in  the  cakes.  When  they 
are  well  soaked  place  on  a  wire  grate  to  drain. 


SMALL    CAKES    FOH    ENTREMETS.  955 

(3325).  CAKES  STUFFED  WITH  APKICOT  (Gateaux  Fourre*s  a  1'Abricot). 

Koll  out  some  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146)  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  it  into  rounds 
with  a  channeled  pastry  cutter  (Fig.  16)  two  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diameter.  Place  half  these 
rounds  on  a  moistened  baking  sheet,  fill  the  centers  with  well-reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675),  wet  over  the  borders  and  cover  with  the  remaining  rounds,  fastening  them  together;  egg  over 
twice,  mark  a  rosette  on  top  and  push  into  a  brisk  oven  to  bake.  When  the  cakes  are  almost  done 
sift  powdered  sugar  over  and  finish  cooking,  allowing  the  sugar  to  melt  well. 

(3326).  ALMONDINE  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  Amandines). 

Have  some  tart  paste  (No.  149)  and  with  it  line  some  tartlet  molds;  prick  the  paste  and  cover 
the  bottoms  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Cut  up  finely  four  ounses  of  peeled  almonds;  dry 
them  in  the  oven  and  then  roast  to  a  fine  color;  when  cold  pound  with  half  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  pour  this  into  a  vessel  to  beat  with  a  spoon,  incorporating  into  it  one  egg-yolk  and  three 
whites,  having  the  whole  slightly  creamy,  then  add  four  ounces  of  chopped  candied  peel.  Fill  the 
lined  molds  three-quarters  full  with  this  preparation,  bestrew  sugar  over  the  tops  and  cook 
in  a  slack  oven;  glaze  well  with  sugar  before  removing. 

(3327).  APPLE  TAKTLETS  (Tartelettes  aux  Pommes). 

Line  two  dozen  hollow  tartlet  molds  with  fine  short  paste  (No.  135);  fill  them  to  half  their  height 
•with  apple  marmalade  (No.  3674)  flavored  with  vanilla.,  and  on  each  one  lay  a  round  piece  of  apple  cut 
out  with  a  plain  cutter  the  same  diameter  as  the  tartlet.  On  each  slice  of  apple  put  a  pinch  of 
sugar,  then  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  Unmold  and  cover  each  one  with  a  thin  layer  of  apricot  marma- 
lade (No.  3675). 

Sour  Apple  Tartlets. — Have  some  deep  tartlet  molds  and  line  them  with  short  paste  (No.  135), 
then  fill  three-quarters  full  with  sour  apple  marmalade.  Wet  the  edges  of  the  tartlets  and  cover 
with  a  layer  of  the  same  short  paste.  Egg  the  surface  and  lay  on  each  two  rounds  of  parings  of  puff 
paste  cut  out  with  a  channeled  cutter  and  of  graduating  sizes;  egg  again  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven.  These  tartlets  can  be  used  as  a  garnishing  for  saddles  of  venison,  etc. 

Sour  Apple  Marmalade. — Peel  and  quarter  some  sour  apples,  put  them  in  a  basin,  cover  with 
water  and  cook  on  a  good  fire.  As  soon  as  done  pour  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain  well.  Strain  the 
pulp  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  add  the  same  weight  of  sugar  and  let  reduce  on  the  fire  fora  few 
moments.  Pour  into  jars  and  leave  to  cool. 

(3328).  BOKDELAISE  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  Bordelaises). 

Pound  six  ounces  of  almonds  with  a  pound  of  sugar;  sift  it  through  a  sieve,  then  add  to  it 
a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  rum  and  seven  egg-whites;  'beat  well  together;  now  put  with  it  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  flour  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  melted  butter  and  lastly  fourteen  very  stiffly 
beaten  egg-whites.  Line  scalloped  tartlet  molds  with  sweet  paste  (No.  136);  fill  them  with  the 
preparation,  bestrew  lightly  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven.  Unmold  as  soon  as  done  and 
leave  till  cold,  then  dress  on  top  of  each  a  rosette  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  flavored  with 
vanilla;  bestrew  with  sugar  and  return  the  cakes  to  the  oven  to  color  the  meringue;  garnish 
between  the  parts  of  the  rosette  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  apple  jelly  (No.  3668) 
or  currant  jelly  (No.  3670). 

(3329).  CHERRY  TARTLETS  (Tartelettes  aux  Cerises). 

Pick  the  stalks  and  stones  from  a  few  handfuls  of  fine  sour  cherries;  lay  them  in  a  basin, 
strew  over  sugar  and  leave  to  ste^p.  Line  two  dozen  hollow  spindle-shaped  tartlet  molds  with 
foundation  paste  (No.  135);  fill  with  the  cherries  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven;  unmold  as  soon  as 
done  and  leave  stand  till  cold,  then  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  currant  jelly  (No.  3670)  dissolved 
in  a  little  syrup. 

(3330).  COLUMBIA  TARTLETS  (Tartelettes  a  la  Columbia). 

Pound  four  ounces  of  almonds  with  five  ounces  of  sugar,  afterward  adding  a  gill  and  a  quarter 
of  milk;  grind  the  whole  to  obtain  a  fine  paste,  put  it  into  a  vessel,  add  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour 
and  four  very  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites.  Line  some  tartlet  molds  with  parings  of  puff  paste  (No. 
146);  cover  the  bottoms  with  a  little  apple  marmalade  (No.  3674),  fill  with  the  preparation  and 
strew  sugar  over  the  tops;  bake  in  a  medium  oven. 


956  THE 

(3331).  DEMONET  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  a  la  Demonet). 

Line  a  sufficient  number  of  tartlet  molds  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146).  Put  in  a  saucepan 
four  ounces  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  pint  of  water;  set  it  on  the  fire  and  at  the 
first  boil  add  half  a  pound  of  flour;  dry  the  preparation  for  one  second,  then  remove  from  the  fire 
and  beat  in  seven  or  eight  eggs  singly  and  a  little  powdered  vanilla  and  finely  chopped  citron. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  the  tartlet  molds  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  fill  them  with  the 
above  paste  pushed  through  a  pocket;  lay  two  small  bands  of  paste  on  top,  crossing  them;  in  each 
triangle  place  a  half  cherry;  bake  in  a  medium  oven. 

(3332).  FANOHONUETTE  TAKTLETS  MEEINGUED  (Tartelettes  Panclionnette  Meringuees), 

Lay  in  a  vessel  three  ounces  of  sugar  and  one  ounce  of  sifted  flour;  beat  up  with  five  egg- 
yolks,  and  dilute  with  five  gills  of  milk,  adding  a  little  vanilla.  Pour  this  into  tartlet  molds  lined 
with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146),  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven.  After  they  are  done  cover  the 
tops  with  a  flat  layer  of  meringue  preparation  (No.  140)  and  on  this  form  a  rosette  or  any  other 
decoration  with  more  meringue;  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  push  in  the  oven  for  an  instant  to  color. 
When  cold  garnish  the  inside  cf  the  decoration  with  currant  jelly  (No.  3670). 

(3333).  EEEISSON  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  Herisson). 

Line  some  oval  tartlet  molds  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146);  fill  them  with  a  fanchonnette 
preparation  (No.  3332),  flavored  with  kirsch,  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven;  as  soon  as  done  let 
get  cold,  then  put  some  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  on  top  in  a  dome  form,  sticking  it  all  over 
with  long  thin  strips  of  almonds,  sprinkling  chopped  almonds  over  all;  push  into  a  slack  oven  to 
color  the  almonds  lightly. 

(3334).  PEACH  TAETLETS  WITH  EIOE  (Tartelettes  de  Peches  au  Eiz). 

Prepare  a  fine  foundation  paste  (No.  135):  line  some  tartlet  molds,  cover  the  bottoms  with  a 
little  apple  marmalade  (No.  3674),  and  fill  the  molds  level  to  the  top  with  rice  with  cream  flavored 
with  vanilla  (No.  160),  then  bake  them.  As  soon  as  done  unmold  and  lay  a  competed  half  peach 
on  top  (No.  3691),  placing  a  circle  of  meringue  points  all  around;  bestrew  with  sugar,  and  push 
in  a  slack  oven  in  order  to  color  the  meringue  lightly,  and  afterward  cover  the  peaches  with  a 
light  syrup. 

(3335).  PELEEINE  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  Pelerines). 

Butter  some  plain  tartlet  molds;  line  them  with  puff  paste  parings  (No.  146),  and  fill  with 
almond  cream  (No.  40),  and  pastry  cream  (No.  46),  half  of  each;  cover  with  a  flat  of  the  same  paste; 
cook,  unmold,  turn  them  over,  and  spread  with  a  thin  layer  of  Conde  preparation  (No.  2);  push 
into  the  oven,  bake  and  serve. 

(3336).  VALENCIA  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  de  Valence). 

Crush  six  ounces  of  almonds  with  six  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  orange  flower 
water  to  make  it  into  a  paste;  add  to  this  two  ounces  of  very  finely  cut-up  orange  peel,  and  five 
stiffly  beaten  egg-whites;  with  this  preparation  fill  some  tartlet  molds  lined  with  puff  paste  parings 
(No.  146);  dredge  lightly  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven.  Unmold  as  soon  as  done,  and 
when  cold  ice  the  tops  with  orange  fondant  (No.  58);  decorate  the  surfaces  with  a  rosette  made  of 
bits  of  orange  peel,  laying  a  preserved  cherry  in  the  center. 

(3337).  VAELEGATED  FEUIT  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  aux  Fruits  Vane's). 

Have  some  molds  lined  with  fine  short  paste  (No.  135);  prick  and  put  into  the  bottom  a  layer 
of  apple  marmalade  (No.  3674),  and  over  some  halved  apricots  or  peaches  or  a  round  slice  of  pear 
or  any  other  cooked  fruit,  drained  and  wiped  dry.  Bake  the  tartlets  in  a  hot  oven,  and  after 
removing,  unmold  and  leave  till  cold.  Then  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  ot  apricot  marmalade  (No. 
3675)  diluted  with  a  little  syrup. 


TEA    CAKES.  9,5? 

(3338).  WELLS  OP  LOVE  (Puits  d' Amour), 

Roll  out  some  six-turn  puff  paste  (No.  146)  to  the  thickness  of  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch; 
cut  it  out  with  a  two-inch  diameter  channeled  pastry  cutter,  and  lay  these  rounds  on  a  bak- 
ing sheet,  putting  it  aside  in  the  ice-box  for  a  few  moments  to  set.  Now  egg  over  and  mark  a 
round  in  the  center  with  a  small  plain  cutter  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  A 
moment  before  removing  bestrew  over  with  powdered  sugar,  and  leave  until  this  is  entirely  melted 
and  glazed.  Then  empty  them  at  once,  and  fill  the  hollow  with  currant  jelly  (No.  3670);  strew  a 
few  chopped  pistachios  over,  and  place  a  fine  preserved  greengage  (No.  3679)  in  the  center. 


TEA  CAKES  (Gateaux  Pour  le 


Forty  to  the  Pound. 

(3339).  BASEL  LECKERLETS  (Leckerlets  de  Bale). 

Pour  four  pounds  of  honey  into  a  saucepan  and  stand  it  on  the  range;  as  soon  as  it  rises 
remove  and  leave  the  honey  to  cool.  Arrange  five  pounds  of  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table:  in  the 
center  lay  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound  of  finely  cut-up  citron,  two  pounds  of  chopped  almonds, 
one  ounce  of  grated  nutmeg,  one  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  cloves,  two  gills 
of  kirsch,  the  chopped  peel  of  two  lemons,  and  one  ounce  of  finely  crushed  carbonate  of  ammonia. 
On  these  ingredients  pour  the  cold  honey  and  mix  all  together,  working  the  flour  in  slowly  to  form 
it  into  a  smooth,  firm  paste;  leave  this  in  a  cool  spot  to  rest  for  two  hours;  then  roll  it  with  the 
rolling-pin  into  flats  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  spread  these  on  slightly  buttered  baking 
sheets,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  done  remove  and  allow  to  cool,  then  ice  them  over 
with  cooked  icing  (No.  102)  flavored  with  orange  flower  water,  applying  it  with  a  brush;  when  the 
icing  is  dry  cut  the  flats  into  small  cakes  two  and  a  half  inches  long  by  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
wide. 

(3340).  BUTTER  PATIENCES  (Patiences  au  Beurre). 

Beat  up  with  a  spatula  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar  with  a  pinch  of  salt 
to  make  a  not  too  light  preparation;  add  eight  eggs,  one  by  one,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and 
lastly  one  pound  of  flour,  and  mix  well.  Put  this  paste  into  a  pocket  (Fig.  179)  furnished  with  a 
quarter-inch  thick  channeled  socket  and  range  it  in  small  biscuits  two  and  a  half  inches  long  and 
one  inch  apart  on  a  buttered  sheet,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3341).  OATS'  TONGUES  WITH  BUTTER  (Langues  de  Chat  au  Beurre). 
Work  ten  ounces  of  butter  to  a  cream  with  eight  ounces  of  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  vanilla 
sugar  (No.  3165);  add  slowly  eight  egg-whites  and  finally  eight  ounces  of  flour.     Range  this  paste 
on  a  slightly  buttered  baking  sheet  in  the  shape  of  three-inch  length  biscuits,  keeping  them  at  a 
short  distance  from  each  other;  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3342).  OATS'  TONGUES  WITH  CREAM  (Langues  de  Chat  a  la  Creme). 

Place  in  a  vessel  eight  ounces  of  flour,  eight  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  ounces  of 
vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165);  dilute  with  three  gills  of  rich  cream  and  make  a  smooth  paste,  then  add 
six  partly  whipped  egg-whites.  Dress  this  paste  on  a  waxed  baking  sheet  in  the  shape  of  small 
biscuits,  each  three  inches  long,  pushing  them  through  a  quarter-inch  diameter  socket;  bake 
slowly  in  the  oven. 

(3343).  COCOANUT  CROWNS  WITH  CHERRIES  (Couronnes  de  Noix  de  Coco  aux  Cerises). 

Mix  together  one  pound  of  grated  cocoanut,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  three  whole  eggs  and  two  ounces  of  flour;  make  this  into  a  paste  then  leave  it  in  the 
ice-box  for  one  hour.  Afterward  mold  this  paste  by  hand  into  balls  an  inch  in  diameter,  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet,  flatten  them  a  little,  egg  over,  place  in  the  center  a  pre- 
served cherry  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


958  THE!    EPICUHEAISL 

(3344).  CKOQUETS  (Croquets). 

Put  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  make  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  into  it  lay  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  chopped  almonds,  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
four  eggs  and  two  spoonfuls  of  rum;  mix  well  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste;  leave  this  in  some  cool 
place  to  rest  for  one  hour.  Then  roll  it  into  two-inch  wide  bands,  having  them  three-eighths  of  an 
inch  in  thickness;  lay  them  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  pan,  egg  over  and  leave  rest  again  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  cool  place.  Mark  them  with  a  fork  in  the  shape  of  small  lozenges.  Bake  them 
in  a  hot  oven,  brush  them  over  with  thick  syrup,  and  after  removing  cut  the  bands  across  into 
small  cakes,  each  one-half  an  inch  wide. 

(3345).  OEUMBLED  PASTE  CAKES  (Gateaux  en  Pate  Pondante). 

Mix  slowly  with  the  hands  twelve  ounces  of  butter  and  a  pound  of  flour  in  such  a  way  as  to  have 
it  crumbling  like  semolina,  then  lay  it  on  a  table  in  the  shape  of  a  ring  and  in  the  center  place 
twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  six  egg-yolks,  three  eggs,  some  grated  lemon  peel  and  a  grain  of  salt. 
Mingle  the  whole  simply  with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  incorporate  this  liquid  into  the  crumbled 
flour;  work  together  quickly  and  roll  it  into  a  ball;  wrap  up  in  a  cloth  and  leave  stand  for  two 
hours  in  a  very  cool  place.  Lay  the  paste  on  a  floured  table  and  divide  it  into  small  parts;  roll 
out  each  of  these  pieces  into  strings  four  and  one-half  inches  long;  curl  both  extremities  of  each 
string  in  two  spirals,  bring  these  spirals  together  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  eye-glass  imitation,  arrange 
them  gradually  on  a  baking-sheet  and  let  them  dry  for  two  hours.  Then  bake  in  a  slack  oven. 

(3346).  ESPAGNOLETTES  (Espagnolettes). 

Break  five  eggs  in  a  basin,  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  beat  together  on  a  slow 
fire  to  have  the  whole  very  light,  then  put  in  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  and  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  very  dry  sifted  flour.  Pour  this  into  a  pocket  and  with  it  dress  the  preparation  on  a 
buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  in  rounds  one  inch  in  diameter;  dredge  the  tops  with  coarsely 
chopped  almonds;  turn  the  baking  sheet  over  quickly  to  remove  the  surplus  of  almonds,  bestrew 
with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  very  slack  oven. 

(3347).  JAPANESE  CAKES  (Gateaux  Japonais). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  unpeeled  almonds  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  add 
half  a  pound  of  flour  and  mix  the  whole  together.  Dress  this  flour  in  a  crown  shape  and  in  the 
centerplace  fourounces  of  kneaded  butter  (No.  579)  and  three  or  four  egg-whites;  work  the  whole  to 
obtain  a  fine  smooth  paste,  then  leave  it  rest  for  one  hour  in  a  very  cold  place;  roll  it  out  to  an  eighth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  this  into  three-inch  wide  bands;  egg  these  over  and  strew  with 
chopped-up  almonds.  Range  the  bands  two  by  two,  one  on  top  of  the  other,  pressing  them  down 
lightly  so  they  adhere  together,  then  cut  them  across  in  small  sticks  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide; 
lay  them  on  buttered  and  floured  sheets  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven;  after  removing  ice  over  with  a 
brush  wet  with  rum  icing  (No.  102). 

(3348).  JUMBLES  (Jumbles). 

Work  to  a  cream  one  pound  ot  butter  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and 
five  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  then  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour.  Place  this  preparation  in  a  pocket 
furnished  with  a  channeled  socket  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  dress  on  a  buttered  sheet 
in  the  shape  of  one  and  a  halt  inch  rounds,  keeping  them  an  Inch  and  a  quarter  apart,  then  bake 
in  a  hot  oven.  As  soon  as  done  remove  them  from  the  oven  and  when  cool  detach  at  once  from 
the  sheet. 

(3349).  LOZENGES  (Losanges). 

Arrange  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  lay  in  the  center  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
ten  ounces  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  two  eggs  and  two  spoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water;  mix  the 
whole  to  have  a  smooth  paste.  Push  this  through  a  syringe  having  a  scalloped  plate  on  the  end 
into  long  ribbons  one  and  a  half  inches  wide,  and  divide  these  into  three-inch  long  lozenges;  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  and  leave  in  a  cool  place  for  half  an  hour,  then  bake  in  a 
hot  oven;  when  cooked  brush  over  with  light  gum  or  with  a  little  icing  sugar  dissolved  in  milk. 


TEA    CAKES.  959 

(3350).  MAKQUIS'  HATS  (Chapeaux  de  Marquis), 

Make  a  paste  with  a  pound  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  butter,  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  two  whole  eggs, 
two  yolks  and  the  peel  of  a  lemon;  leave  rest  in  a  cool  place;  roll  it  out  into  a  flat  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  thick  and  from  this  cut  channeled  rounds  two  inches  in  diameter;  egg  the  edges  of  them  all  and 
in  the  center  lay  a  three-quarter-inch  diameter  ball  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125),  incorporating 
into  it  as  much  crushed  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino;  lift  up  the  edges  on  the  three  corners  and 
fasten  them  together  on  top  of  the  balls;  egg  over  and  leave  for  half  an  hour  in  a  cool  spot,  then  bake 
iu  a  slack  oven. 

(3351).  MILANESE  (Milanaises). 

Put  four  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  vessel  with  two  egg-yolks  and  two  whole  eggs;  beat  together  for 
a  moment  to  obtain  a  light  preparation,  then  add  two  heaping  spoonfuls  of  powdered  almonds,  four 
ounces  of  melted  butter,  four  spoonfuls  of  finely  cut-up  citron  and  half  a  pound  of  flour,  stirring 
together  well  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste;  leave  it  in  a  cool  place  for  half  an  hour.  Roll  it  out  with 
the  rolling-pin  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  this  into  bands,  each  one  two  and  a  half 
inches  wide;  brush  each  one  with  egg-yolks  and  trace  lines  on  top  with  a  fork;  bestrew  lightly  with 
chopped  almonds  and  cut  them  across  in  rectangles  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick;  lay  them  on 
a  buttered  sheet  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

(3352).  NANTES  (Nantes). 

Arrange  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table;  in  the  center  lay  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  half 
a  pound  of  butter,  three  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  candied  orange  peel  and  citron,  chopped  very 
finely;  stir  well  to  have  a  firm  and  smooth  paste,  roll  it  out  with  a  rolling  pin  to  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness  and  cut  this  into  rounds  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  pinch  the  edges  with  a 
pastry  pinch  (Fig.  178)  and  lay  them  at  once  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet;  garnish  the 
centers  with  a  preparation  made  with  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  almonds  and  sugar  combined 
with  a  little  egg-white;  let  rest  for  an  instant  in  a  cool  place,  then  bake  in  a  medium  oven. 

(3353).  PALAIS  DE  DAMES  WITH  VANILLA  (Palais  de  Dames  Vanillfc). 
Work  four  ounces  of  butter  to  a  cream  in  a  vessel:  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  sugar  partly  flavored 
with  vanilla  (No.  3165),  then  three  whole  eggs  one  by  one  and  lastly  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour.  Dress 
this  preparation  by  means  of  a  pocket  (Fig.  179)  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  and  cook  in  a 
hot  oven.    After  removing  glaze  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  vanilla  icing  (No.  102). 

(3354).  PISTACHIO  NOUGAT  (Nougat  de  Pistaches). 

Roll  out  some  sweet  paste  (No.  136)  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  it  into 
small  one  and  a  half  inch  diameter  rounds  and  brush  them  around  with  egg-yolks;  dredge  all  around 
on  the  brushed  part  a  circle  of  chopped  burnt  almonds  (No.  1),  then  lay  them  on  a  buttered  baking 
sheet  and  leave  rest  for  one  hour  in  the  ice-box.  Bake  them  in  a  slack  oven  and  when  finished  mask 
the  centers  with  apricot  jam  (No.  3675)  and  lay  over  a  round  piece  of  preserved  apricot;  glaze  with 
rum  and  bestrew  immediately  with  shredded  pistachios. 

(3355).  EIBBONS  WITH  ALMOND  MILK  (Rubans  au  Lait  d'Amandes). 

Pound  six  ounces  of  almonds  with  a  little  milk.  Arrange  half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  in  a 
circle  on  the  table  and  in  the  center  lay  the  pounded  almonds,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  six  ounces  of 
butter  and  two  egg-yolks;  mix  all  together  to  have  it  smooth.  Push  this  paste  through  a  syringe 
on  a  lightly  floured  board  and  form  it  into  long  pointed-edge  ribbons;  cut  these  in  two-inch  lengths 
and  range  them  at  once  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet;  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3356).  SCOTCH  BREAD  (Pain  d'Ecosse). 

Roast  four  ounces  of  almonds  and  when  cold  pound  them  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  reduce 
to  a  powder  and  sift  through  a  sieve.  Arrange  on  the  table  in  a  circle  half  a  pound  of  flour; 
in  the  center  put  the  almond  powder,  four  ounces  of  butter,  one  egg,  one  separate  yolk  and  the 
peel  of  a  lemon ;  mix  well  to  obtain  a  smooth  paste.  Form  this  with  the  hands  Into  small  spindles 
two  inches  long;  range  them  an  inch  and  a  half  apart  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet, 
brush  over  twice  with  beaten  egg-yolks  and  leave  stand  for  a  minute  in  a  cool  place;  when  ready  to 
bake  split  them  in  two  lengthwise  and  push  into  a  brisk  oven. 


960  THE    EPICUREAN.. 

(3357),  SHAVINGS  (Copeaux). 

Partly  beat  up  ten  egg-whites;  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
orange  flower  water,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour;  lay  this  paste  through  a  pocket  fur- 
nished with  an  eighth-inch  diameter  socket  or  else  through  a  paper  cornet,  on  a  waxed  baking  sheet 
in  the  shape  of  ribbons,  each  four  and  a  half  inches  long;  bake  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  as  soon  as 
done  detach  from  the  sheet  and  roll  them  spirally  around  small  rollers  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  removing  them  as  fast  as  they  get  the  proper  shape. 


(3358).  SUGAE  CAKES  (Gateaux  an  Sucre). 

Make  a  ring  with  two  pounds  of  flour;  in  the  center  place  one  pound  of  sugar,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  two  eggs,  four  yolks,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  salaratus,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  dissolved  carbonate  of  ammonia,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  milk;  mix  all  well  together 
to  have  a  smooth  paste;  lay  this  aside  in  a  stone  crock,  and  just  when  ready  to  use  roll  it  out  very 
thin  and  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  two  and  a  half  inch  diameter  channeled  pastry  cutter  (Fig.  16), 
and  from  the  center  remove  small  pieces  with  a  three-quarter  of  an  inch  diameter  cutter.  Kange 
these  rings  on  a  buttered  sheet,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


(3359).  TROUVERE  CAKES  (Gateaux  Trouvere). 

Lay  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  circle  on  the  table  and  in  the  center  place  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  peel  of  one  orange  and  two  eggs,  also  a  half-inch  ball  of  carbonate 
of  ammonia,  having  it  finely  crushed;  mix  the  whole  carefully  to  obtain  a  smooth  and  fine 
paste,  watching  attentively  that  it  does  not  crumble;  let  it  rest  for  half  an  hour,  then  roll  it  tc 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  it  into  inch  and  a  half  diameter  rounds  with  a  chan- 
neled pastry  cutter,  range  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  egg  over,  and  trace  lines  on  top  with  a  fork; 
prick  the  surfaces  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

(3360).  TUILES  (Tulles). 

Crush  a  pound  of  almonds  with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  and  six  egg-whites  to  obtain  a 
paste  not  too  fine;  put  this  into  a  bowl  and  beat  well  to  give  it  body;  then  add  eight  beaten  egg- 
whites  and  vanilla  flavoring;  mix  well.  Dress  this  preparation  into  flat  oval  macaroons  on  but 
tered  and  floured  baking  sheets;  scatter  shredded  almonds  over,  bestrew  lightly  with  powdered 
sugar  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  done  detach  from  the  sheets,  and  bend  each  one  around 
a  wooden  roller. 

(3361).  PARISIAN  TUILES  (Tuiles  Parisiennes). 

Beat  four  egg-whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  seven  ounces  of  sugar,  mixing  together  to  form  a 
meringue;  then  put  in  one  ounce  of  flour  and  seven  ounces  of  shredded  almonds.  Dress  this 
preparation  with  a  fork  into  small  inch  and  a  half  diameter  balls  on  a  buttered  and  floured  sheet: 
flatten  them  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  with  a  fork  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  done 
detach  and  bend  on  a  roller. 

(3362).  CHOCOLATE  WAFFLES  AND  CIGARETTE  WAPPLES  WITH  VANILLA-THIN  (Gaufres 
Minces  au  Chocolat  et  Gaufres  Cigarettes  k  la  Vanille). 

Lay  six  ounces  of  flour,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  and  four 
ounces  of  powdered  chocolate  in  a  vessel;  dilute  with  four  egg-yolks,  half  a  pint  of  double  cream  partly 
whipped  and  four  egg-whites  also  partly  whipped.  Range  this  paste  with  a  spoon  on  a  waxed 
baking  sheet  into  very  thin  round  wafers  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 
As  soon  as  done  roll  them  on  small  wooden  sticks  half  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Cigarette  Wafers  with  Vanilla. — Dilute  gradually  six  ounces  of  flour,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of 
sugar  and  half  an  ounce  ot  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  with  two  and  a  half  gills  of  milk  and  one  egg; 
stir  to  have  a  smooth  and  flowing  paste,  then  add  an  ounce  of  melted  butter.  Cook  this  preparation 
in  round,  flat  wafer  irons  (Fig.  608),  proceeding  the  same  as  for  No.  3363.  When  of  a  fine  golden 
color  roll  them  on  a  small  roller  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 


FANCY    CAKES.  961 

(3363).  WAFERS  WITH  ALMONDS  OR  HAZEL-NUTS  AND  WITH  BRANDY-THIN  (Gaufres 

Minces  aux  Amandes  ou  aux  Noisettes  et  au  Cognac). 

Grind  eight  ounces  of  peeled  sweet  almonds  with  four  egg-whites;  pound  them  to  a  pulp  to  obtain 
a  very  fine  paste,  then  add  twelve  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  part  of  it  flavored  with  vanilla  (No. 
3165)  four  ounces  of  flour  and  two  egg-whites.  Mix  the  whole  well,  and  when  the  paste  is  quite  smooth 
add  to  it  four  partly  beaten  egg-whites.  Dress  this 
paste  in  rounds  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter 
with  a  spoon  on  waxed  baking  tins,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven;  when  of  a  fine  golden  color  remove  from  the  tins 
and  roll  them  on  half-inch  diameter  cylinders. 

For  Hazel-nut  Wafers. — Substitute  the  same  quan- 
tity of  roasted  nuts  for  the  almonds. 

Rolled  Wafers  with  Brandy. — Lay  twelve  ounces  F]G 

of  sifted  powdered  sugar  in  a  bowl  and  wet  it  slowly 

with  ten  half-beaten  egg-whites,  then  add  six  ounces  of  flour  and  six  ounces  of  corn  starch, 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy.  Mix  thoroughly  to  a 
smooth  paste;  add  a  pint  of  milk  and  stir  until  a  flowing  paste  is  obtained.  Heat  two  flat,  round, 
wafer  irons  (Fig.  608),  cover  one  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  paste,  close  the  irons,  and  cook  the 
wafers  to  a  fine  golden  color.  Pare  the  edges  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  then  roll  each  one  upon 
a  small  inch-diameter  roll. 


FANCY  CAKES  (Petits  Fours), 


Sixty  to  the  Pound. 

(3364),  AFRICANS  (Africains). 

Make  a  small  lady  finger  preparation  (No.  3377);  pour  it  in  a  linen  bag  furnished  with  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  socket,  and  lay  the  cakes  on  paper  in  the  shape  of  small  rounds  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  in  diameter;  place  this  paper  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  bake  the  cakes  in  a  slow  oven.  As 
soon  as  they  are  done  remove  them  from  the  sheet  and  let  get  cold  on  the  paper,  then  take  the 
biscuits  off,  scoop  them  out  on  the  flat  side,  and  fill  in  the  empty  space  with  pastry  cream  (No.  46); 
fasten  them  together  in  pairs  and  dip  them  entirely  in  icing  (No.  102)  flavored  with  vanilla,  rose, 
coffee  or  chocolate,  removing  them  with  a  fork.  Drain  well  on  a  wire  grate,  then  set  them  at  the 
oven  door  an  instant  to  gloss. 

(3365).  AMARETTES  (AmarettesX 

Mix  fifteen  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  with  one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  a  pound  of  sugar  and 
four  egg-whites,  and  crush  to  make  a  very  fine  paste;  lay  this  in  a  vessel,  add  two  more  egg-whites 
and  half  a  pound  more  sugar;  stir  well  together  until  the  paste  is  smooth.  Mold  it  with  the  hands 
into  olive  shapes,  and  range  them  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper;  leave  to  rest  for  four  hours 
in  the  heater,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  After  removing  from  the  fire,  and  while  yet  hot,  detach 
from  the  paper,  gum  over  and  roll  them  in  finely  chopped  pistachios,  then  lay  at  once  on  a  grate 
and  return  to  the  oven  to  dry  the  gum. 

(3366).  BARCELONNETTES  (Barcelonnettes). 

Pound  eight  ounces  of  almonds  with  a  pound  of  sugar,  four  eggs  and  a  gill  of  rum;  make  a 
very  fine  paste  and  put  it  in  a  vessel  to  add  to  it  six  egg-yolks,  one  at  a  time,  beating  them  in 
until  the  whole  becomes  very  light.  Then  sift  in  eight  ounces  of  flour,  mixing  it  in  lightly,  and 
lastly  ten  egg-whites  whipped  to  a  very  stiff  froth.  Butter  some  small  molds  the  shape  of  small 
channeled  tartlets;  glaze  them  over  with  icing  sugar  and  fecula,  half  of  each,  and  fill  them 
three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation  pushed  in  through  a  pocket;  scatter  chopped  almonds  over 
the  tops,  bestrew  lightly  with  powdered  sugar,  and  cook  in  a  very  slack  oven;  unmold  as  soon  as 
done. 


962  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3367).  BIRDS'  NESTS  (Nids  d'Oiseaux). 

Put  four  egg-whites  in  a  vessel  and  beat  them  up  with  six  ounces  of  icing  sugar  to  obtain  a 
rather  light  icing,  then  add  a  pinch  of  cinnamon  and  a  large  handful  of  citron  cut  in  small  sticks, 
and  some  shredded  almonds,  having  half  of  each.  Mold  this  preparation  with  the  hand  into  inch- 
diameter  balls  and  range  them  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet;  press  a  small  roller  in  the 
center  of  each  to  form  a  hollow  in  imitation  of  birds'  nests;  dry  these  for  one  hour  in  the  heater 
and  bake  in  a  very  slack  oven.  After  removing  fill  the  centers  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675). 
Cover  this  over  with  thick  kirsch  water  icing  (No.  102)  pushed  through  a  cornet,  and  scatter  over 
the  top  small  candies  imitating  eggs,  and  a  little  green  sugar  (No.  172). 

(3368).  HAZEL-NUT  BISCUITS  (Biscuits  aux  Noisettes). 

Crush  twelve  ounces  of  roasted  hazel-nuts  with  a  pound  of  sugar  and  three  eggs  to  make  a 
very  fine  paste;  lay  it  in  a  basin  and  add  half  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water  and  sixteen  egg-yolks, 
one  at  a  time,  then  beat  vigorously  until  very  creamy.  Add  ten  ounces  of  flour  and  twelve 
firmly  whipped  egg-whites.  Pour  this  preparation  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet;  spread  it  to 
a  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  layer  and  push  in  a  slack  oven  to  cook.  Unmold  the  cake  as  soon 
as  done  on  a  grate  and  leave  in  a  cool  place  for  a  few  hours.  Then  pare  it  very  straight  and  soak 
it  lightly  on  the  underside  with  Curagoa;  cover  the  top  with  reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675), 
then  cut  the  cake  into  small  lozenge-shapes  two  inches  long  and  dip  them  at  once  in  Curagoa 
fondant  (No.  58);  bestrew  with  chopped  and  lightly  roasted  hazel-nuts. 

(3369).  BISCUITS  WITH  ALMONDS-ICED  (Biscuits  Place's  aux  Amandes). 

Put  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  basin  with  eight  eggs;  beat  until  it  is  frothy,  then  add  six  ounces  of 
almonds  thoroughly  pounded  with  two  egg-yolks  and  half  a  gill  of  maraschino;  continue  to  beat 
until  the  preparation  is  quite  light,  then  add  eight  ounces  of  rice  flour,  mixing  it  in  gently,  and  four 
ounces  of  melted  butter.  Pour  the  preparation  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper,  spreading  it 
to  a  layer  one  inch  in  thickness,  and  place  this  in  a  slack  oven.  Turn  the  cake  over  on  a  grate 
and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  to  rest  until  the  following  day.  Then  wet  it  over  with  a  brush  dipped 
in  maraschino;  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  glaze 
it  with  white  fondant  (No.  58)  flavored  with  maraschino  and  at  once  scatter  chopped  burnt 
almonds  over  the  entire  surface.  After  the  icing  is  firm  cut  the  cake  into  small  rectangulars 
an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide. 

(3370).  CHOCOLATE  CHESTNUTS  (Marrons  au  Chocolat). 

Pound  together  a  pound  of  almonds  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  fine  powder  and  pass  it 
through  a  sieve;  put  this  strained  powder  back  in  the  mortar  and  stirring  into  it  twelve  to  fourteen 
egg-yolks  continue  to  pound  until  a  fine  paste  is  obtained,  then  lay  it  on  a  marble  slab  and  incor- 
porate six  ounces  of  softened  chocolate;  leave  the  paste  in  the  ice-box  for  one  hour.  Koll  into 
strings,  cut  into  small  pieces  and  form  these  into  balls  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
shape  them  to  resemble  chestnuts;  lay  them  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  and  leave  in  a  cool 
place  for  twelve  hours.  Then  cook  in  a  very  hot  oven  and  gum  them  over  as  soon  as  removed. 

(3371).  COOOANUT  KISSES  (Meringues  Moelleuses  aux  Noix  de  Coco). 

Place  eight  egg-whites  free  from  yolks  in  a  basin,  whip  until  they  become  a  stiff  froth,  then 
add  with  a  small  spatula  one  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  having  part  of  it  flavored  with  vanilla  (No. 
3165),  and  one  pound  of  grated  cocoanut.  Wet  a  board  thoroughly,  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  paper, 
dampen  this  lightly  and  on  it  range  small  balls  of  the  preparation  one  inch  in  diameter,  placing 
them  slightly  apart.  As  soon  as  finished  bestrew  with  powdered  sugar  and  push  into  a  very  slack 
oven  to  cook  from  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes.  After  removing  lift  from  the  paper  and  fasten  two 
by  two  together. 

(3372).  EXQUISITES  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Exquis  aux  Marrons). 

Have  ready  a  little  firm  lady  finger  paste  (No.  3377),  and  with  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  diameter  socket  dress  it  into  small  crowns  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  laying 
them  on  a  sheet  of  paper;  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  When  finished  detach  from  the  paper  and  hollow 


FANCY    CAKKS.  963 

out  the  interiors  of  these  crowns  slightly  on  the  flat  side,  then  fill  them  up  with  chestnut  puree; 
fasten  together  two  by  two,  cover  one  side  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  ice  with 
vanilla  fondant  (No.  58);  bestrew  lightly  all  over  with  very  finely  chopped  pistachios  and  with  a 
channeled  socket  placed  in  a  pocket  dress  in  the  center  of  each  crown  a  rosette  of  Mocha  cream. 

(3373).  FILBERT  CAKES  WITH  BUM— SMALL  (Petits  Gateaux  d'Avelines  au  Ehum), 

Koast  half  a  pound  of  filberts;  clean  them  well  by  removing  their  outer  reddish  skins,  then 
pound  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  two  eggs  and  half  a  gill  of  rum,  making  it  into  quite 
a  fine  paste;  lay  this  in  a  vessel  and  soften  it  gradually  with  eight  egg-yolks,  continuing  to  beat 
until  it  is  frothy,  then  add  two  ounces  of  finely  shredded  citron,  four  ounces  of  potato  fecula,  four 
ounces  of  melted  butter  and  lastly  six  firmly  beaten  egg-whites.  Pour  this  paste  on  a  buttered 
sheet  covered  with  paper,  spread  it  out  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven.  Turn 
the  cake  over  on  a  grate  when  done  and  leave  to  cool  and  set  until  the  following  day.  Pare  and 
cut  it  either  in  lozenges,  oblongs  or  other  shapes;  steep  each  one  slightly  in  Jamaica  rum  and  ice 
over,  dipping  them  into  Jamaica  rum  fondant  (No.  58);  bestrew  the  cakes  with  chopped-up  roasted 
filberts. 

(3374).  FANCY  CAKES-SOFT  'Petits  Fours  Moelleux). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  five  egg-whites;  let  this 
paste  be  very  fine;  lay  it  on  a  table  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  strawberry  essence  and  three  more 
whites,  and  beat  until  it  is  very  smooth  and  has  attained  body.  Put  a  part  of  it  in  a  channeled 
socket  pocket  and  push  it  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  into  small  cakes  shaped  like  an  S, 
commas,  knobs,  etc.  Decorate  each  one  with  a  fancifully  cut  canftied  fruit  or  very  white 
almonds  and  leave  to  dry  in  a  cool  place  for  four  or  five  hours.  Then  bake  in  a  hot  oven  and  gum 
as  soon  as  removed. 

(3375).  JAVANESES  (Javanais). 

Cook  a  little  Genoese  preparation  (No.  3307)  on  a  baking  sheet,  having  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Then  divide  it  into  two  even  parts;  cover  one  of  these  with  a  layer  of  Quillet  coffee  cream  (No. 
48)  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  lay  the  other  half  on  top,  pressing  it  down  lightly  so  it  will 
adhere  to  the  cream;  cover  over  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  place  the  cake  in  the  ice-box 
to  harden  the  cream.  Then  cut  it  out  with  an  oval  pastry  cutter  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by 
one  inch  wide.  Glaze  these  separate  -cakes  with  coffee  fondant  (No.  58)  and  in  the  center  of  each 
lay  a  pinch  of  lightly  burnt  chopped  almonds. 

(3376).  LADY'S  BOUCHEES  WITH  STRAWBERRIES  OR  RASPBERRIES  (Bouche'es  de  Dames  a 

la  Fraise  on  a  la  Framboise). 

Make  a  little  very  firm  lady  finger  preparation  (No.  3377) ;  lay  it  through  a  pocket  on  paper  in 
small  inch  and  a  quarter  rounds  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven.  As  soon  as  done  and  cold 
detach  from  the  paper  and  hollow  each  one  slightly;  fill  up  this  empty  space  with  strawberry  or 
raspberry  marmalade  (No.  3695)  and  fasten  two  together;  cover  with  a  light  layer  of  the  marmalade 
and  glaze  with  raspberry  fondant  (No.  58). 

(3377).  LADY  FINGERS  (Biscuits  k  la  Ouiller). 

Separate  the  whites  from  twenty  eggs  and  pour  them  into  a  basin;  leave  the  yolks  in  another  ves- 
sel; to  these  yolks  add  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  part  of  it  being  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165)  and 
beat  up  to  make  a  very  light  preparation;  then  put 
in  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  the  twenty  whites 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  stirring  the  whole  lightly  to- 
gether. Pour  a  part  of  this  preparation  into  a  pocket 
(Fig.  179)  furnished  with  a  half-inch  diameter  socket 
and  through  it  push  biscuits  four  and  a  half 
inches  in  length,  keeping  them  slightly  apart  and 
laying  them  on  sheets  of  paper;  bestrew  with  Fio.  609. 

powdered  sugar;  put  on  a  baking  sheet  and  leave 

stand  a  moment  until  the  sugar  begins  to  dissolve,  then  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven.  As  soon 
as  they  are  of  a  light  golden  color  and  the  crust  begins  to  harden  remove  at  once  from  the  oven 
and  from  the  baking  sheet,  then  range  them  on  a  table  till  cold. 

Another  Recipe  is  one  pound  of  sugar,  twelve  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  grain  of  salt,  grated 
zest  or  a  spoonful  of  orange  flower  water. 


964  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3378).  LEMON  CEOWNS  (Oouronnes  au  Citron). 

Prepare  a  very  fine  paste  with  ten  ounces  of  almonds,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  part 
of  it  flavored  with  lemon  (No.  3165)  and  five  egg-whites;  lay  this  paste  on  a  buttered  and  floured 
baking  sheet  in  small  crowns  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter,  pushing  them  through  a  pocket 
with  a  small  three-eighths  of  an  inch  channeled  socket;  leave  to  dry  in  the  heater  for  four  to  five 
hours,  and  when  ready  to  cook  fill  the  centers  with  frangipane  cream  with  vanilla  (No.  44);  dredge 
over  this  cream  with  chopped  almonds  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven.  Gum  over  as  soon  as  done,  leave 
to  cool  and  detach  from  the  paper. 

(3379).  MAOABOONS  (Macarons). 

Shell  and  skin  one  pound  of  almonds;  pound  them  with  two  pounds  of  sugar,  having  part  of  it 
flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165)  and  ten  egg-whites;  make  a  smooth  but  not  too  fine  paste;  lay  it  in  a 
vessel  to  beat  with  a  spatula  until  it  acquires  a  body.  Have  a  pocket  provided  with  a  half-inch 
diameter  socket  and  push  through  it  macaroons  an  inch  in  size,  laying  them  on  a  paper-covered 
baking  sheet.  Moisten  the  surface  with  a  slightly  dampened  cloth  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven. 

(3380).  ANGELICA  MACAEOONS  (Macarons  d'Angelique). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  and  seven  egg-whites;  make 
a  smooth  but  not  too  fine  paste;  place  it  in  a  copper  basin  and  heat  while  stirring  continuously 
with  a  spatula;  when  warm  enough  remove  it  at  once  from  the  fire  to  stir  in  five  ounces  of 
finely  chopped  angelica.  Kange  this  paste  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  in  small  macaroon 
shapes  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter;  dampen  the  surfaces  with  a  slightly  wet  cloth,  powder 
over  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven. 

(3381).  BITTEE  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  Amers). 

Pound  twelve  ounces  of  sweet  and  four  ounces  of  bitter  almonds  with  two  pounds  of  sugar  and 
ten  to  twelve  egg-whites;  make  a  paste  not  too  fine  but  rather  soft;  work  this  well  to  have  it 
attain  body,  then  lay  it  through  a  pocket  into  small  oval  macaroons  an  inch  and  a  half  long  on  a 
paper-covered  baking  sheet;  dampen  with  a  wet  cloth  and  bestrew  with  granulated  sugar;  cook  in 
a  slack  oven. 

(3382).  CHOCOLATE  MAOAEOONS  WITH  NONPABEIL  (Macarons  au  Chocolat  a  la  Non- 

pareille). 

With  one  pound  of  pounded  almonds,  two  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  sugar  and  ten  egg-whites 
make  a  smooth  but  not  too  fine  paste;  place  it  in  a  vessel,  incorporating  four  ounces  of  cocoa 
softened  in  a  mild  oven;  mix  well,  adding  two  or  three  egg-whites.  Dress  this  paste  on  paper 
through  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  socket  into  small  inch-diameter  balls;  dampen  the  surfaces  with 
a  wet  cloth,  then  cover  with  white  nonpareil,  removing  the  surplus  that  has  not  adhered;  put  the 
sheet  of  paper  on  a  baking  sheet  and  cook  these  macaroons  in  a  slack  oven. 

(3383).  OEEAM  MAOAEOONS  IN  OASES  (Macarons  en  Caisses  a  la  Oreme). 
Form  a  paste  with  one  pound  of  pounded  almonds,  two  pounds  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  good  rich 
cream,  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  rum,  four  egg-whites  and  two  orange  peels.  Put  this  paste  into  a  ves- 
sel and  beat  it  thoroughly  to  give  it  body;  then  add  five  very  stiffly  whipped  egg  whites,  stirring 
them  in  gently.  Have  some  small  paper  cases  ready;  range  them  one  beside  the  other,  slightly 
apart,  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet;  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation,  letting  it 
fall  through  a  pocket;  bestrew  with  powdered  sugar  and  cook  in  a  very  slack  oven. 

(3384).  DUTCH  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  Hollandais). 

Peel  one  pound  of  almonds;  pound  them  with  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  icing  sugar,  part  of  it 
flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165)  and  add  slowly  ten  egg-whites  to  obtain  a  very  fine  paste;  put  it 
into  a  vessel  and  work  to  give  body.  Push  it  through  a  pocket  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet 
into  small  oval  macaroons  one  inch  in  length,  and  keep  them  in  the  heater  for  twelve  hours,  then 
remove  and  split  them  in  two  with  a  small  kitchen  knife  and  cook  in  a  very  slack  oven. 


FANCY    CAKES.  96,5 

(3385).  FANCY  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  Fantaisie). 

These  macaroons  are  made  with  ordinary  macaroon  paste,  the  proportions  being  one  pound  of 
almonds,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  twelve  to  fourteen  egg-whites,  preparing  the  paste  in  the 
manner  described  in  Elementary  Methods  (No.  138).  They  can  be  made  in  an  infinite  number  of 
designs,  and  among  others  are  the  following: 

Angelica  Macaroons. — Place  the  prepared  paste  in  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  socket  (Fig.  179) 
and  push  through  four  small  macaroons  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  in  a  straight  line,  one 
next  to  the  other,  fastening  them  all  together,  and  decorate  the  entire  line  with  a  stick  of  angelica, 
then  bake.  Gum  over  after  they  are  done,  and  decorate  the  ends  with  two  small  beads  of  pink 
icing  (No.  102)  made  with  syrup. 

Clover  Macaroons. — Dress  three  rounds  the  same  way  but  place  them  in  the  form  of  a  clover, 
instead  of  a  straight  line;  decorate  with  three  lozenges  of  angelica  and  then  bake.  Gum  over  as  soon 
as  they  are  taken  from  the  oven  and  on  each  bead  push  a  spot  of  green  fondant  (No.  58)  through  a 
cornet. 

Orange  Macaroons. — Have  the  same  paste  dressed  in  small,  long  ovals;  decorate  each  one  with 
two  strips  of  candied  orange  peel  laid  on  the  bias;  cook  and  gum  over. 

Apple  Jelly  Macaroons.— Make  the  macaroons  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  wet  over 
and  cook.  After  removing  them  from  the  oven  form  a  hole  in  each  with  a  small  roller  and  fill 
this  up  with  apple  jelly  (No.  3668).  On  top  dress  a  bead  of  white  icing  (No.  102)  pushed  through  a 
cornet. 

Twin  Macaroons. — Lay  two  small  macaroons  one  beside  the  other  in  such  a  way  that  they 
adhere  together.  Wet  over  and  cook.  After  taking  them  out  of  the  oven  make  a  hole  in  the 
center  of  each  with  a  very  small  roller.  Fill  these  holes  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and 
cover  this  with  a  bead  of  pistachio  fondant  (No.  58). 

Currant  Jelly  Macaroons. — Dress  a  small  macaroon  and  around  it  form  small  beads  of  the  same 
paste;  wet  and  cook.  Remove  from  the  oven  and  make  a  hole  in  the  center  with  a  small  roller  and 
fill  it  up  with  currant  jelly  (No.  3670),  then  cover  with  raspberry  icing  (No.  102).  Decorate  with 
small  beads  of  royal  icing. 

Network  Macaroons. — Dress  small  oval-shaped  macaroons,  wet  and  cook.  When  done  make 
an  oval  hole  in  the  center  of  each  and  fill  the  hollow  with  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  cover 
this  with  orange  fondant  (No.  58)  and  decorate  the  fondant  with  a  network  of  royal  icing  (No.  101). 

Lyre  Macaroons. — Push  through  the  socket  in  the  form  of  small  lyres;  at  the  base  of  each 
one  range  three  small  beads;  decorate  to  imitate  the  strings  with  small  sticks  of  angelica;  wet  and 
cook;  gum  over  after  taking  them  out  of  the  oven. 

(3386).  HAZEL-NUT  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  de  Noisettes), 

Lay  some  hazel-nuts  on  a  raised-edge  baking  sheet  and  roast  them  in  the  oven;  as  soon  as  done 
pour  them  on  a  large  sieve,  rub  well  to  remove  their  skins  and  leave  to  cool.  Crush  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  these  nuts  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  almonds  with  two  pounds  of  sugar 
and  eight  or  ten  egg-whites;  make  a  paste  the  same  as  for  plain  macaroons.  Put  this  into  a  vessel 
and  stir  well  to  give  it  body;  then  push  it  through  a  pocket  on  paper,  dampen  with  a  cloth  and 
bake  in  a  warm  oven. 

(3387).  SOUFFLE'  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  Souffle's). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  eight  egg-whites;  of  this  make  a 
fine  paste;  lay  it  in  a  vessel  and  work,  to  give  it  body,  then  mix  in  lightly  twelve  very  stiffly  whip- 
ped egg-whites.  Push  the  preparation  through  a  pocket  on  paper  in  the  shape  of  inch  and  a 
quarter  long  macaroons;  bestrew  lightly  with  powdered  sugar  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven.  When 
done  detach  from  the  paper  by  wetting  and  fasten  the  macaroons  together  two  by  two  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675). 

(3388).  STEAWBEEEY  MAOAEOONS  (Macarons  a  la  Fraise). 

Pound  together  one  pound  of  almonds,  two  pounds  of  sugar,  five  egg-whites  and  half  a  gill  of 
strawberry  spirit;  make  of  it  a  plain  macaroon  paste;  put  this  in  a  vessel  and  add  a  few  drops  of 
carmine  and  four  very  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites.  Lay  the  paste  through  a  pocket  into  small  oval- 
shaped  macaroons  an  inch  and  three-quarters  long  on  a  sheet  ot  paper;  dampen  with  a  wet  cloth 
and  cook  them  in  a  slack  oven;  remove  the  paper  from  the  baking  sheet  and  leave  the  macaroons 
to  get  cold.  Detach  them  from  the  paper  and  stick  them  two  by  two  with  strawberry  preserves. 


966  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3389).  MADRILIANS  (Madriliens). 

Line  some  small  tartlet-shaped  cake  molds  with  sweet  paste  (No.  136);  mask  the  insides  with 
well-reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Pound  four  ounces  of  almonds  with  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
two  egg-yolks  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  rich  cream;  make  a  soft,  fine  paste,  add  to  it  two  ounces  of 
orange  peel  cut  in  very  small  dice,  and  finally  two  whipped  egg-whites.  With  this  fill  the 
small  molds  even  with  the  top,  strew  crystallized  sugar  over  and  bake  very  slowly  in  a  slack 
oven. 

(3390).  MAGICIANS  (Magiciennes). 

Prepare  three  pastes  of  different  tints  and  flavors;  have  an  almond  paste  with  egg-yolks  (No. 
126),  another  paste  made  of  pistachios  the  same  as  for  pistachio  lozenges  (No.  3395),  only  keeping 
it  a  little  firmer,  and  the  third  of  almond  paste  as  for  ordinary  fancy  cakes  (No.  124);  into  this  in- 
corporate a  little  softened  cocoa.  Roll  these  pastes  separately  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  and  on  the  chocolate  one  spread  a  thin  layer  of  well-reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675); 
on  top  of  this  place  the  pistachio  flat,  cover  it  with  more  of  the  same  marmalade  and  lastly  put  the 
almond  flat  on  top.  Slide  this  on  a  grate  and  leave  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour  to  set, 
afterward  cooking  it  in  a  hot  oven;  as  soon  as  done  and  partly  cold  ice  the  cake  with  vanilla  icing 
and  divide  it  into  small  lozenges. 

(3391).  DEMIDOFF  MARCHPANES  (Massepains  Demidoff), 

Chop  one  pound  of  almonds  finely  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve;  also  three  ounces  of  candied 
orange  peel.  Beat  one  pound  of  sugar  with  ten  or  eleven  egg-whites  and  make  it  very  light  while 
heating  gently,  then  add  four  ounces  of  flour,  the  orange  peer  and  chopped  almonds.  Lay  this 
preparation  in  inch  and  a  quarter  diameter  rounds  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet; 
bestrew  with  chopped  almonds,  then  with  powdered  sugar  and  let  rest,  and  then  bake  in  a  very 
slack  oven. 

(3392).  ORANGE  MARCHPANES  (Massepains  a  1'Orange). 

Pound  a  pound  of  almonds  with  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar;  add  twelve  egg-whites,  one 
by  one;  form  into  a  smooth  paste.  Lay  it  in  a  vessel  and  continue  to  work  until  it  acquires  body; 
then  add  six  ounces  of  finely  chopped  orange  peel;  mingle  well  and  dress  on  buttered  and 
floured  baking  sheets  in  the  shape  of  oval  macaroons  one  and  a  quarter  inches  long;  bestrew  with 
powdered  sugar  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven;  detach  and  fasten  together  two  by  two  with  apple 
jelly  (No.  3668)  flavored  with  orange. 

(3393).  SOFT  MARCHPANES  (Massepains  Moelleux). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  having  part  of  it  flavored  with 
vanilla  (No.  3165)  and  twelve  to  fourteen  egg-yolks:  make  this  into  a  fine  paste.  Eun  it  through  a 
syringe  into  channeled  bands  and  decorate  these  at  even  distances  with  lozenges  of  angelica  and  a 
preserved  half  cherry  in  the  center  of  each;  leave  to  dry  in  a  mild  temperature  until  the  following 
day,  then  cook  in  a  very  hot  oven.  Gum  over  when  taken  from  the  oven  with  gum  arabic  dis- 
solved in  water  and  cut  them  at  once  across  between  the  decorations. 

(3394).  ITALIAN  COFFEE  MERINGUES-SMALL  (Petites  Meringues  Italiennes  au  daft), 

Break  seven  egg-whites  in  a  basin  and  beat  them  on  a  slow  fire  with  a  pound  of  icing  sugar  to 
form  into  a  very  light  and  firm  meringue,  then  add  to  it  one  good  tablespoonful  of  coffee 
essence,  mixing  it  in  lightly.  Lay  this  through  a  pocket  on  a  paper-covered  damp  board  into  small 
meringue  shapes  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  done  fasten  them  together  two  by  two. 

(3395).  PISTACHIO  LOZENGES  (Losanges  aux  Pistaches). 

Have  two  pastes  ready;  one  made  of  almonds  and  the  other  of  pistachio  nuts,  proceeding  as 
explained  herewith:  Pound  one  pound  of  almonds  with  eighteen  ounces  of  sugar  and  four  or  five 
egg-whites,  obtaining  a  rather  stiff  paste;  roll  this  out  with  the  rolling-pinto  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness.  Besides  this  pound  fourteen  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts  with  one  pound  of  sugar  and 
two  ounces  of  chopped  candied  orange  peel,  using  sufficient  egg-whites  to  make  a  fine  paste  of  the 
same  consistency  as  a  macaroon  paste.  Spread  the  pistachio  layer  on  top  of  the  almond  one,  slip 
it  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet  and  push  into  a  moderate  oven  to  cook.  As  soon  as  the  cake  is 


FANCY    CAKES.  967 

done  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  leave  to  cool  partly,  then  spread  over  a  coating  of  royal  icing 
(No.  101),  dredging  the  top  with  shredded  pistachios.  Cut  at  once  into  lozenges  two  inches  long; 
range  the  cakes,  one  beside  the  other,  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper  and  lay  them  for  a 
few  moments  in  the  oven  to  dry  the  icing. 

(3396).  PISTACHIO  TOUEONS  (Tourons  aux  Pistaches). 

Obtain  a  fine  firm  paste  with  half  a  pound  of  pounded  almonds,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  ot 
sugar  and  three  or  four  egg-whites.  Roll  it  out  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cover 
with  royal  icing  (No.  101),  into  which  mix  ten  ounces  of  chopped  pistachios  and  half  a  grated 
orange  peel.  Cut  this  paste  into  small  sticks  each  two  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  five-eighths  of 
an  inch  in  width;  range  them  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven. 

(3397).  QUILLETS-SMALL  (Petits  Quillets). 

Line  some  small  tartlet  shape  molds  with  parings  of  thin  puff  paste  (No.  146),  and  let  rest  for 
some  time.  Mix  three  parts  of  cream  cake  paste  (No.  132)  with  one  part  of  pastry  cream 
(No.  46)  and  with  this  fill  the  molds  as  far  as  the  edges;  bestrew  the  tops  lightly  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  then  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  As  soon  as  done  turn  them  out  of  the  molds  and  leave 
to  cool  off;  scoop  out  partially  and  refill  with  Quillet  cream  (No.  48).  Ice  the  tops  with  vanilla 
fondant  (No.  58). 

(3398).  PIGNON  KOCKS  WITH  WHITE  AND  PINK  ALMONDS  (Eochers  aux  Pignons  aux 

Amandes  Blanches  et  Koses). 

Whip  eight  egg-whites  in  a  basin  with  a  pound  of  icing  sugar,  a  part  to  be  flavored  with  vanilla 
(No.  3165);  beat  over  a  very  slow  fire  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  feel  light  and  slightly  warm 
take  the  basin  from  the  fire  and  continue  the  beating  process  until  perfectly  light,  then  add  one 
pound  of  pignons,  mixing  them  in  gently,  or  shredded  almonds  mixed  the  same.  Dress  the  prepara- 
tion with  a  fork  into  balls  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  lay  them  on  waxed  baking  sheets  and  bake 
in  a  very  slack  oven.  For  the  pink  rocks  with  almonds  or  pignons  mix  in  the  preparation  before 
adding  the  nuts  one  tablespoonful  of  spirit  of  raspberry  and  a  little  carmine,  then  finish  as  above. 

(3399).  EOOKS  WITH  OEANGEADE  (Rochers  a  1'Orangeade), 

Incorporate  some  icing  sugar  .with  three  egg-whites  to  have  a  rather  light  icing;  add  to  it  four 
ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  half  a  pound  of  shredded  almonds  slightly  roasted  in  the 
oven  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  thinly  sliced  candied  orange  peel.  Roll  out  some  sweet  paste 
(No.  136)  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  divide  it  into  small  inch  and  a  half  diameter  rounds 
and  range  these  on  a  buttered  baking  sheet;  on  each  one  lay  a  ball  of  the  above  preparation  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter  and  cook  in  a  slack  oven. 

(3400).  CHEEKY  STICKS  (Batons  aux  Cerises). 

Crush  one  pound  of  almonds  with  two  pounds  and  three-quarters  of  icing  sugar,  having  part  of 
it  flavored  with  vanilla  (No.  3165)  and  eight  to  ten  egg-whites;  obtain  a  very  fine  paste,  then  spread 
it  out  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  let  rest  in  a  cool  place  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  tc  two  hours;  cover  the  flat  with  a  layer  of  the  same  paste,  softened  with  more  egg-white. 
Divide  it  into  bands,  each  two  and  a  quarter  inches  wide,  and  cut  these  in  crosswise  sticks,  three 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  width;  decorate  each  one  with  four  halved  cherries,  the  cut  side  down,  and 
lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  over  with  paper;  bake  in  a  medium  oven. 

(3401).  VANILLA  STICKS  (Batons  a  la  Vanille). 

Beat  one  pound  of  almonds  with  two  pounds  and  three-quarters  of  icing  sugar  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165),  adding  seven  beaten  egg-whites;  obtain  a  very  fine  paste.  Let 
it  stand  for  a  few  hours  in  a  cool  place,  then  roll  it  out  with  the  pin  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
thickness;  cover  the  top  with  a  layer  of  royal  icing  (No.  101).  Cut  this  flat  into  bands  two  and  a 
quarter  inches  wide,  and  these  into  sticks  five-eighths  of  an  inch  long;  lay  them  at  once  on  a 
baking  sheet  covered  with  paper;  cook  in  a  very  slack  oven. 


968  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3402).  APEIOOT  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  d'Abricots). 

Pound  one  pound  of  almonds  with  three  pounds  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar 
(No.  3165)  and  ten  to  twelve  egg-whites;  make  a  fine  and  firm  paste.  Roll  this  out  with  the 
rolling-pin  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  it  line  some  small  hollow  tartlet  molds; 
unmold  on  a  baking  sheet  and  let  dry  well  in  the  heater.  Fill  the  insides  of  the  small  tartlets 
with  reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675),  and  glaze  with  apricot  fondant  (No.  58). 

(3403).  STEAVBEEEY  TAETLETS  (Tartelettes  de  Fraises). 

Line  some  oval-shaped  small  cake  molds  with  a  thin  coating  of  almond  paste  (No.  124). 
Crush  eight  ounces  of  pounded  almonds  with  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  strawberry 
marmalade  (No.  3678),'  a  little  maraschino  and  two  egg-whites;  make  this  into  a  smooth  but  not 
too  fine  paste,  color  it  slightly  with  carmine  and  incorporate  five  well-beaten  egg-whites  into  which 
has  been  mixed  an  ounce  of  sugar,  continuing  to  beat  all  the  time.  Fill  the  molds  to  the  tops 
with  this,  bestrew  the  surfaces  with  powdered  sugar  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven;  unmold  when  done, 
cool  off  and  ice  over  with  fondant  (No.  58)  flavored  with  strawberry. 

(3404).  VENETIANS  (Venitiens), 

Chop  up  a  pound  of  almonds  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  peeled,  dried  pistachios,  and  press 
them  through  a  sieve  (Fig.  96).  Put  sixteen  egg-yolks  into  a  basin  with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
sugar;  beat  till  a  light  mixture  is  obtained,  then  add  the  powdered  almonds,  two  ounces  of  fecula 
and  six  firmly  beaten  egg-whites.  Turn  this  preparation  on  a  baking  sheet  covered  with  paper  in 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  layers  and  cook  it  in  a  slack  oven;  when  done  unmold  on  a  grate, 
leaving  it  there  until  quite  cold.  Cover  it  with  a  thick  layer  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and 
bestrew  with  shredded  pistachios.  As  soon  as  the  apricot  is  hard  cut  the  cake  into  rectangulars 
tv/o  inches  long  by  one  inch  wide. 


BAKERY  (Boulangerie). 


(3405).  BEEAD  MAKING  (Fabrication  du  Pain). 

Although  bread  is  considered  a  plain,  simple  food,  yet  it  plays  a  very  important  part  on  the 
table  and  in  the  kitchen  work.  The  preparation  it  requires  in  the  kitchen,  and  the  labor  it  demands, 
are  almost  innumerable,  therefore  I  consider  it  necessary  to  give  a  few  suggestions  as  to  the  manner 
of  manipulating.  These  suggestions,  of  course,  are  only  meant  as  a  guide  for  the  skilled  practi- 
tioner, for  to  obtain  perfect  success  in  bread  making  requires  both  the  experience  and  judgment  of 
the  workman,  and  he  should  always  take  in  consideration,  while  performing  his  task,  all  that  stands 
in  relation  to  his  work:  The  season,  the  weather,  the  temperature,  the  quality  of  the  flour  em- 
ployed and  its  strength,  the  different  kinds  of  flour  entering  into  the  mixture,  the  creparation  of 
the  dough,  yeasts  and  ferment,  the  size  of  the  bread,  the  quantity  of  either  the  first  or  second 
batch,  the  nature  of  the  combustible  for  heating  the  oven  and  its  capacity.  All  these  are  most 
useful  points  to  study  and  to  remember,  but  can  only  be  learned  by  practice,  from  whence  experi- 
ence arises.  Both  the  judgment  and  tact  must  be  utilized  if  success  in  bread  making  be  desired. 


(3406),  NECESSAEY  UTENSILS  POE  BEEAD  MAKING  (Ilstensiles  Nfoessaires  a  la  Fabrication 

du  Pain). 

The  utensils  needed  for  bread  making  are  few,  and  generally  of  a  simple  kind.  A  range  for 
cooking  the  potatoes  for  the  ferment  and  heating  the  water.  An  enameled  cast-iron  pot  to  cook 
the  potatoes.  Two  tubs,  each  twenty  inches  in  diameter  and  thirty  inches  deep — one  to  prepare 
the  yeast  in,  the  other  for  the  ferment.  A  pestle  for  crushing  the  potatoes  used  to  prepare  the 
ferment.  A  sieve  (Fig.  97)  to  strain  the  hop  water  for  preparing  stock  yeast  and  common  yeast. 
A  sieve  (Fig.  96)  for  sifting  the  flour.  A  strainer  for  straining  the  ferment.  A  poker  or  long 
iron  hook,  when  the  oven  is  heated  by  wood,  to  remove  the  embers.  This  is  not  used  in  the 
modern  ovens  heated  with  coal.  A  tub  or  pail  to  be  filled  with  water  into  which  the  mop  used  for 
cleaning  the  oven  is  plunged.  A  swab  or  long  stick  on  the  end  of  which  a  heavy  cloth  or  mop  is 
attached.  A  dipper  or  tin  vessel  with  a  handle,  generally  holding  about  two  quarts;  it  is  used  for 
measuring  the  water,  yeast  and  ferment.  A  scraper  or  polished  iron  plate,  four  inches  long  by  five 


970  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  a  half  inches  wide,  with  a  handle;  this  is  used  to  remove  the  dough  adhering  to  the  sides  of  the 
kneading  trough ;  it  is  also  used  for  cutting  the  dough  into  pieces.  Square  wooden  boxes,  measur- 
ing thirty  inches  wide  by  thirty-two  inches  long  and  four  and  a  half  inches  deep  in  the  inside.  It 
is  in  these  boxes,  either  simply  dredged  over  with  flour  or  else  covered  with  a  layer  of  coarse  linen, 
that  the  dough  rests  after  being  cut  up  in  all  the  operations  succeeding  the  molding.  Long  and 
narrow  wooden  crown  boxes,  measuring  in  the  inside  sixteen  inches  wide  by  four  feet  ten  inches 
long  and  three  and  a  quarter  inches  deep.  It  is  in  these  boxes,  after  they  are  covered  with  a 
layer  of  coarse  linen,  that  the  crowns  are  placed  and  left  until  ready  to  put  in  the  oven.  Long 
strips  of  coarse  linen  in  proportionate  width  to  the  boxes  they  are  intended  for.  These  strips  are 
laid  in  the  boxes,  and  on  these  the  bread  rests  until  ready  to  be  baked.  Two  hard  wood  rolling- 
pins,  one  three  feet  long  and  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  diameter;  the  other  two  feet  long  and 
five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  The  longest  one  is  used  to  split  the  crowns,  and  the  shortest 
to  split  the  rolls.  Two  small  hard  wood  boards,  four  inches  long  by  thirty  inches  wide  and  half  an 
inch  thick  on  one  end,  then  sloping  down  to  scarcely  nothing  on  the  other,  on  the  long  side  of  the 
board.  Cover  one  of  these  with  thin  flannel,  to  be  used  to  remove  jockos  from  the  piece  of  linen, 
to  place  them  on  the  peel,  when  sufficiently  raised  to  be  put  in  the  oven;  the  other  one  remains 
uncovered  and  is  used  for  raising  the  rolls  from  the  linen  when  ready  to  cook.  A  round  board  half 
an  inch  thick  and  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  furnished  with  a  handle;  the  crowns  are  inverted  from 
the  linen  on  this  to  transport  to  the  peel,  just  when  ready  to  place  in  the  oven.  Wooden  and  iron 
peels  and  a  shovel,  one  five  inches  wide  by  forty-one  inches  long.  It  is  used  for  putting  the 
jockos  into  the  oven.  Another  of  the  same  length  and  twenty  inches  wide  is  used  to  put  all  the 
small  rolls  and  crowns  in  the  oven,  also  to  take  them  out,  as  well  as  the  jockos.  A  third  iron  peel, 
seven  by  ten  inches  in  length,  is  used  for  putting  in  and  removing  the  molded  loaves  and  those  on 
tins.  A  shovel  for  coal,  to  be  wide  and  quite  deep.  Baking  pans  of  Russian  sheet-iron  with  high 
sides,  sixteen  inches  long  by  eight  inches  wide  and  three  and  a  half  inches  deep.  These  pans  are 
used  for  American  two-pound  loaves.  Others,  measuring  twenty-four  by  nineteen  inches  wide,  are 
intended  for  sweet  rolls  and  muffins.  Sheet-iron  molds  with  hinged  covers  of  two  different  sizes, 

one  containing  seven  pounds  of  dough  as  in  Fig.  610,  for 
loaves  intended  for  sandwiches  and  crusts;  the  other  con- 
taining twelve  pounds  of  dough,  these  loaves  to  be  used 
for  large  croustades,  supports  and  bread-crumbs.  Fig.  610 
FIG.  6io.  mold  contains  seven  pounds,  and  is  twenty  inches  long  by 

five  and  a  half  wide,  and  five  inches  deep;  at  the  bottom  it  is  a  quarter  of  an  inch  shorter  and  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  narrower  than  at  the  top.  The  other  mold  must  be  thirteen  inches  long  by  nine 
inches  wide,  and  at  the  bottom  a  quarter  of  an  inch  shorter  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  narrower 
than  at  the  top;  that  is,  twelve  and  three-quarters  by  eight  and  three-quarters  inches.  The  depth 
should  be  nine  inches.  A  kneading  trough,  a  large  wooden  case,  generally  thirty  inches  wide  at 
the  top  and  twenty-two  inches  at  the  bottom,  twenty  inches  deep  and  eight  feet  long. 

(3407).  TO  MAKE  BKEAD  (La  Fabrication  du  Pain). 

Bread  making  is  divided  into  the  following  operations:  The  preparation  of  the  stock  yeast, 
the  yeast,  the  ferment,  the  leaven,  the  dough,  the  molding  and  the  baking. 

(3408).  STOCK  YEAST  (Fond  de  Levain). 

Boil  five  quarts  of  water.  Put  in  a  stone  jar  five  ounces  of  flour;  dilute  it  with  a  part  of  this 
boiling  water,  sufficient  to  obtain  a  very  firm  paste;  put  into  the  remainder  of  the  water  one  ounce 
of  hops;  let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  remove  the  liquid  from  the  fire  and  run  it  through  a  fine 
sieve  into  the  stone  jar  and  over  the  paste.  Set  this  jar  in  a  cool  place  until  the  liquid  is  only 
lukewarm.  Then  dissolve  the  paste  with  the  water,  and  add  to  it  four  ounces  of  malt:  cover  the 
pot,  and  leave  it  in  a  rather  warm  temperature  for  forty-eight  hours,  where  it  cannot  be  disturbed; 
when  this  time  has  expired  strain  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  into  another  stone  jar.  The  stock 
yeast  is  now  ready  to  be  used. 

(3409).  YEAST  (Levure). 

All  the  utensils  used  for  making  yeast  and  leaven  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean,  as  also 
the  tubs.  Put  fifteen  quarts  of  water  into  a  large  pot;  set  it  on  the  fire  and  remove  it  at  the  first 
boil.  Lay  two  pounds  of  flour  in  the  bottom  of  a  tub,  dilute  it  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and 
make  a  sufficiently  hard  paste.  Put  into  the  rest  of  the  water  in  the  pot  three  ounces  of  hops  and 


BAKERY.  9?1 

let  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  strain  the  boiling  liquid  at  once  through 
a  fine  sieve  into  the  tub  and  over  the  paste;  set  this  tub  in  a  cool  place  and  leave  it  till  the  liquid 
is  only  lukewarm,  then  with  the  hands  work  the  paste  well  into  the  water;  add  immediately  one 
quart  of  barley  malt  and  a  quart  of  stock  yeast,  mixing  all  well  together.'  Set  the  tub  in  a  moder- 
ate temperature  and  leave  without  disturbing  it  while  fermenting,  which  process  will  take 
place  in  eighteen  to  twenty  hours.  By  attending  to  these  elementary  details  with  care  a  perfect 
baking  will  ensue.  Strain  the  yeast  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another  tub  and  set  this  in  the  ice- 
box, or  any  cool  place,  to  use  as  needed  for  the  preparation  of  the  ferment.  This  yeast  will  keep 
perfectly  good  for  four  days. 

(3410).  PEEMENT  (Ferment). 

Wash  seventeen  quarts  of  small  potatoes,  put  them  into  an  enameled  iron  pot,  pouring  over 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover;  place  the  pot  on  the  fire,  and  let  them  boil  uninterruptedly  until 
well  done,  then  remove.  Throw  the  potatoes  into  a  large  tub,  add  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour, 
mash  well  together  with  a  pestle  to  reduce  the  whole  to  a  smooth  paste,  then  dilute  this  paste 
gradually  with  twenty-two  quarts  of  water,  either  cold  or  barely  lukewarm,  according  to  the  tem- 
perature and  season;  afterward  add  five  quarts  of  yeast,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together.  Cover 
the  tub  with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  in  a  moderately  warm  place  where  there  is  no  danger  of  its  being 
disturbed  and  leave  it  until  fermentation  takes  place,  which  means  until  it  rises  to  double  its 
height  and  falls  again  to  its  normal  state.  The  fermentation  should  take  place  in  from  seven  to 
eight  hours.  With  this  quantity  of  ferment  a  barrel  of  flour  can  be  used. 

(3411).  LEAVEN  (Levain). 

Sift  a  barrel  of  flour  into  one  end  of  the  kneading  trough;  into  the  other  end  strain  thirty-one 
quarts  of  ferment  through  a  colander,  and  work  enough  of  the  flour  into  it  to  form  a  dough,  not 
too  consistent;  gather  up  this  dough  into  a  small  space  in  the  trough  and  keep  it  in  position  with 
a  movable  board  which  answers  for  a  partition;  dredge  it  over  with  flour,  and  cover  with  the  lid 
of  the  trough,  then  leave  it  to  rise  for  three  hours;  at  the  end  of  that  time  the  sponge  should  be 
double  its  size  and  ready  to  fall  again;  it  is  then  ready  for  the  dough. 

(3412).  THE  DOUGH  (La  Pate). 

Remove  the  supporting  board  and  let  the  sponge  cover  a  larger  space  in  the  trough;  pour  over 
it  twenty-nine  quarts  of  water  and  three  pounds  of  salt  dissolved  in  a  part  of  the  water,  then  mix 
the  whole  together  until  the  sponge  is  well  blended;  then  dredge  over  the  half  of  the  remain- 
ing flour  and  knead  well  together  with  the  hands,  giving  them  a  vertical  rotary  movement,  going 
and  coming  from  one  end  to  the  other  of  the  dough;  it  should  now  be  rather  soft  and  begin  to 
acquire  body.  Pour  the  remainder  of  the  flour  in  one  layer  over  all  the  paste  and  knead  it  once 
more,  but  this  time  cutting  it  into  small  pieces  with  the  hands  and  superposing  these  pieces  at 
once,  one  on  top  of  the  other;  as  soon  as  all  the  flour  is  absorbed,  then  push  all  of  the  dough  to- 
one  end  of  the  trough.  Cut  from  the  whole  of  it  a  piece  weighing  twenty-five  pounds;  knead  it 
strongly,  blowing  and  beating  it  forcibly  against  the  sides  of  the  trough,  which  means  to  take  the 
piece  of  dough  by  the  two  lateral  ends,  raise  them  to  the  height  of  the  chest,  stretching  out 
the  dough  and  bringing  it  down  heavily  against  the  sides  of  the  trough  in  such  a  way  as  to  im- 
prison all  the  air  possible,  and  give  it  consistency;  repeat  the  same  operation  with  the  remainder 
of  the  paste.  Superpose  the  pieces  of  dough  as  quickly  as  they  are  done,  one  on  top  of  the  other, 
at  the  other  end  of  the  trough;  repeat  this  operation  a  second  time,  then  a  third  and  even  a  fourth 
time,  until  the  dough  has  acquired  the  desired  body,  then  gather  it  together  into  a  small  space  in 
the  trough,  holding  it  up  with  the  well-floured  board  wedged  against  it.  Dredge  over  lightly 
with  flour,  cover  and  leave  it  to  rise  for  one  hour.  The  dough  is  then  ready  to  mold. 

(3413).  BREAD  WITH  BUTTER,  VARSOVIAN  (Pain  au  Beurre  k  la  Varsovienne). 
Make  a  small  leaven  with  four  ounces  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and  sufficient  warm 
milk  to  form  it  into  a  softish  paste;  mold  it  into  a  ball,  lay  in  a  vessel,  dredge  with  flour,  cover 
with  a  cloth  and  leave  it  in  a  mild  temperature  to  raise  the  leaven  to  double  its  size.  Sift  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  table,  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  in  it  put  a  pinch  of  salt, 
five  ounces  of  melted  butter  and  half  a  gill  of  milk;  make  the  dough  of  the  same  consistency  as  a 
brioche  paste;  incorporate  the  leaven,  cutting  it  up  to  mix  it  well  with  the  paste  without  knead- 


973  THE    EPICUREAN. 

ing  it.  Lay  this  paste  in  a  vessel,  dredge  with  flour,  cover  with  a  cloth  and  leave  it  to  rise  in  a 
mild  temperature.  Turn  it  over  on  the  table  when  it  attains  twice  its  original  size;  cut  it  up  and 
divide  it  into  pieces;  with  each  of  these  form  a  ball  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter;  range  them 
on  buttered  baking  sheets  at  a  distance  of  an  inch  and  a  quarter  apart  and  let  rise  to  double  their 
size;  brush  over  with  egg  diluted  with  milk  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

(3414).  OEESOENTS  WITH  BUTTER-FINE  (Croissants  Pins  au  Beurre). 
Make  a  rather  firm  leaven  with  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and  six  ounces  of  flour;  let  it  rise  in  a 
mild  temperature.  Arrange  twelve  ounces  of  flour  in  a  circle,  lay  a  little  salt  in  the  center  and 
moisten  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  adding  four  ounces  of  butter;  dilute  the  paste,  keeping  it 
rather  firm,  then  add  the  leaven;  when  this  is  well  mingled  lay  the  paste  in  a  vessel,  cover  over 
and  leave  to  rise  slowly,  without  any  heat;  after  it  is  well  risen  cut  it  up  on  a  floured  table  and 
divide  it  in  parts  the  size  of  an  inch  and  three-quarters  diameter  ball;  mold  each  one  in  a  round 
form  and  flatten  with  a  roller;  spread  to  a  thin  oval  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  With  the 
left  hand  take  hold  of  the  nearest  end  and  with  the  right  roll  the  opposite  end,  then  bring  the  two 
ends  quickly  together  at  the  same  time,  being  careful  to  draw  the  paste  lightly  with  the  left  hand 
so  as  to  keep  the  cake  quite  thin;  this  operation  should  be  deftly  and  speedily  performed.  As  soon 
as  a  band  is  rolled  lay  it  on  a  baking  sheet,  ranging  it  in  the  shape  of  a  crescent.  Leave  the  paste 
to  rise  slowly  once  more,  then  wet  with  a  brush  dipped  in  water  and  push  into  a  hot  oven;  after 
removing  dampen  the  tops  with  f  ecu  la  cooked  in  water  to  the  consistency  of  a  light  syrup,  apply- 
ing it  with  a  brush;  this  helps  to  give  gloss  to  the  cakes. 

(3415).  OKOWNS  (Oouronnes). 

For  twelve  crowns:  Take  thirty-six  pounds  of  dough;  divide  it  into  twelve  parts  of 
three  pounds  each,  and  mold  all  the  pieces  into  separate  balls;  flatten  them  to  a  third  of 
their  thickness.  Lay  these  in  lightly  floured  boxes  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  half  an  hour;  then 
remove  them  from  the  boxes  and  lay  them  on  the  table,  one  by  one,  to  flatten  out;  roll  over  in  four 
and  finally  stretch  out  to  the  shape  of  a  roll  t\venty-six  inches  long.  As  soon  as  they  are 
done  return  them  to  the  boxes  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes,  then  take 
one  of  them  from  its  box  and  lay  it  on  the  table;  with  a  wooden  rolling-pin,  as  described  in  the 
bread-making  utensils,  split  the  dough  through  its  whole  length  without  separating  it  entirely, 
forming  a  depression  along  the  center  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  separating  the  dough  on 
each  side,  two  and  a  half  inches  apart;  then  take  up  the  furthest  edge  of  the  dough,  and  raising 
it,  bring  it_forward  toward  yourself  in  such  a  manner  as  to  partially  envelop  the  other  edge  of 
the  dough.  Bring  the  two  ends  together  and  fasten  so  as  to  form  a  crown.  Transfer  this  into 
another  long  box.  as  explained  in  No.  3406,  covered  inside  with  a  piece  of  coarse  linen,  laying  the 
split  side  underneath;  continue  to  mold  all  the  other  balls  in  a  like  manner,  then  cover  and  leave 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  As  soon  as  they  are  sufficiently  raised  take  the  round  board  with  a  handle, 
as  denoted  in  No.  3406,  in  the  right  hand,  and  lay  it  on  the  right  of  one  of  the  first  molded 
crowns,  slanting  it  slightly  against  the  crown;  at  the  same  time  with  the  left  hand  take  hold  of  the 
piece  of  linen  which  extends  beyond  the  crown  on  its  left,  and  with  a  deft  stroke  turn  the  crown 
over  on  the  board  without  injuring  its  shape;  transfer  this  crown  on  the  board  and  slip  it  on  to 
the  peel,  then  push  it  at  once  into  the  oven.  Continue  the  same  operation  for  all  the  other  crowns 
until  they  are  in  the  oven  and  leave  them  there  for  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes. 

(3416).  JOCKOS-FKENCH  LOAVES  (Jockos). 

Lay  on  the  table  a  part  of  the  dough  from  the  trough;  divide  it  up  into  pound  and  a  half 
pieces  each  and  mold  them  into  balls  as  soon  as  they  are  weighed;  flatten  them  down  to  a  third  of 
their  thickness,  and  range  them  two  inches  apart  in  boxes  previously  bestrewn  with  flour.  When  a 
box  is  full  sprinkle  the  balls  lightly  with  flour,  cover  them  hermetically  by  laying  another  box  of 
the  same  size  on  top;  fill  this  one  the  same  as  the  first,  and  cover  in  a  similar  manner,  and  con- 
tinue this  process  until  there  are  sufficient  of  them.  Over  the  last  box  set  an  empty  one  and  let 
raise  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes;  take  the  first  ones  molded,  and  with  the  hands  roll  and 
pull  them  out  in  a  way  to  give  them  a  cylindrical  shape,  twenty-two  inches  long;  lay  these  on  a 
bed  of  Indian  meal  previously  spread  over  one  end  of  the  table,  and  leave  them  there  for  a  few 
moments — sufficient  time  to  allow  the  meal  to  adhere  to  the  dough.  Range  in  a  box  a  long  piece  of 
coarse  linen,  the  right  end  extending  up  two  inches  against  the  side  of  the  box;  lay  on  this  piece  of 
linen,  against  this  side,  one  of  the  rolls  of  dough,  putting  the  side  the  meal  is  on  at  the  bottom; 


BAKERY.  973 

raise  the  linen  on  the  left  side  of  the  paste  in  such  a  manner  as  to  form  it  into  a  fold  parallel  to 
the  roll  of  dough,  to  serve  as  a  support,  so  that  the  dough  when  rising  does  not  flatten  out,  but 
stands  up  vertically,  which  helps  to  give  the  bread  its  round  shape.  Roll  out  another  roll  of  dough 
to  form  a  second  roll,  the  same  as  the  first;  lay  it  in  the  meal,  and  then  range  it  on  the  piece  of 
linen,  against  the  first  roll;  raise  the  linen  to  form  a  fourth  fold  to  maintain  the  third  roll  of  dough, 
and  continue  the  same  until  the  box  is  full.  Cover  it  hermetically,  laying  another  box  on  top,  and 
ill  it  up  the  same  way;  when  all  the  balls  have  been  rolled  out  let  them  rest  for  one  hour  and  a 
half  to  two  hours,  according  to  the  temperature  and  season,  or  until  they  rise  to  a  third  of  their 
original  size.  Now  take  the  thin  covered  board,  as  explained  in  bread-making  utensils,  in  the 
right  hand  and  insert  it  sideways  on  the  right  of  the  first  roll  of  molded  dough,  between  the  fold 
of  linen  and  the  dough;  at  the  same  time,  with  the  left  hand,  take  the  end  of  linen  on  the  left  of 
the  dough,  and  hold  it  so  that  the  dough  can  be  rolled  over  on  this  board;  transport  this  roll  of 
paste,  and  turn  it  over  on  the  peel;  score  four  slanting  incisions  at  once  on  its  back,  using  for  this 
the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  and  set  it  into  the  oven;  continue  the  operation  until  all  the  jockos  are  in 
the  oven,  then  close  it  up  for  fifteen  minutes;  at  the  expiration  of  this  time  the  jockos  should  be 
baked.  Begin  taking  out  the  first  ones  put  in,  and  continue  according  to  the  order  they  were 
placed  in  the  oven  until  all  are  removed. 


(3417).  LOAVES  IS  BOXES  AND  PANS  OP  TWO,  SEVEN  AND  TWELVE  POUNDS  EAOH 
(Pains  en  Boites  et  en  Plaques  de  Deux,  Sept  et  Douze  Livres  Chaque). 

For  sixteen  pan  loaves,  two  pounds  each,  lay  on  the  table  thirty-two  pounds  of  dough; 
cut  it  into  sixteen  pieces  of  two  pounds  each,  and  mold  them  into  balls;  flatten  and  range 
them  in  lightly  floured  boxes  to  rise  for  one-half  hour;  flatten  again  and  3ift  up  the  four 
corners,  fold  the  dough  in  two,  and  again  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  a  roll  or  stick,  eight  inches 
long  by  four  inches  in  diameter;  lay  these  as  soon  as  done  in  pans  sixteen  by  eight  inches  with 
raised  edges  (No.  3406),  previously  greased  over  with  lard;  lay  four  in  each,  very  close, 
one  beside  the  other,  and  leave  them  one  hour  to  rise,  then  push  them  into  a  moderate  oven  to 
bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  as  soon  as  they  are  done  remove  and  turn  them  out  at  once. 

For  seven-pound  loaves  to  cut  up  for  sandwiches  and  croutons,  and  for  twelve-pound  loaves 
for  large  croustades  and  bread-crumbs,  roll  them  out,  and  prepare  the  same  as  the  two-pound 
bread,  putting  seven  or  twelve  pounds  of  dough  into  each,  according  to  the  size  of  the  mold. 
Butter  or  grease  the  molds,  close  the  lids,  and  let  rise  for  one  hour,  then  push  them  into  the  mild- 
est spot  in  the  oven. 

To  bake  a  seven-pound  loaf  of  bread  it  will  take  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  a  twelve-pound  loaf 
takes  about  two  hours;  when  done,  remove  from  the  oven  and  unmold. 


(3418).  PASTE  FOB  PINGER  BOLLS  AND  SMALL  BOLLS  (Pate  a  Petits  Pains). 

The  ingredients  are  one  pound  of  flour,  two  eggs,  three-quarters  of  a  gill  of  milk,  salt,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  half  an  ounce  each  of  sugar  and  yeast.  Make  a  little  leaven  with  a  quarter  of  the 
flour  and  the  yeast,  diluting  it  with  a  little  warm  water;  leave  this  in  a  vessel,  cover  and  place  in  a 
temperate  place  so  that  it  rises  to  double  its  height.  Lay  the  balance  of  the  flour  on  the  table; 
make  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  in  this  put  a  pinch  of  salt,  the  sugar  and  a  little  tepid  milk,  then 
the  eggs  and  mix,  drawing  in  the  flour  gradually  and  adding  the  rest  of  the  tepid  milk.  When  all 
is  mixed  bring  the  dough  together  and  knead  it  well,  striking  it  on  the  table  for  a  few  minutes  (the 
object  of  this  being  to  incorporate  as  much  air  as  possible  in  the  paste);  when  the  paste  has  plenty 
of  body  add  half  the  butter  to  it  and  continue  the  kneading  until  the  butter  is  well  worked  in, 
then  add  the  rest  of  the  butter  and  knead  again,  working  the  paste  a  few  minutes  longer.  Now 
put  in  the  leaven,  mixing  it  lightly  with  the  dough,  set  into  a  vessel,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it 
rise  in  a  moderate  temperature.  As  soon  as  this  dough  is  sufficiently  raised  divide  it  into  pieces  of 
a  pound  each ;  roll  out  these  into  ropes  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  dividing  these  ropes  into 
twenty  equal-sized  parts  give  each  one  a  round  shape  by  rolling  them  on  the  table  with  the  palm 
of  the  hand;  roll  them  out  to  the  shape  of  small  rolls  two  and  three-quarters  inches  long,  pointed 
at  both  ends,  and  lay  them  on  a  slightly  buttered  baking  sheet,  keeping  them  about  one  inch 
apart,  then  leave  them  to  rise  in  a  gentle  temperature.  As  soon  as  they  are  sufficiently  raised 
brush  them  over  with  beaten  eggs  twice,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven. 


974  TME    EPICUREAN. 

(3419).  PINGEE  EOLLS  (Flutes  Longnes), 

Sift  two  pounds  of  flour  on  the  table,  divide  it  into  four  parts  and  in  one  of  the  quarters  form 
a  hollow;  set  into  it  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  yeast,  diluting  with  a  gill  and  a  half  of  lukewarm 
water;  work  the  flour  into  the  liquid  in  such  a  way  as  to  obtain  a  soft  leaven;  mold  it  round 
shape  and  indent  a  cross  on  top;  lay  it  in  a  vessel  into  which  a  few  spoonfuls  of  tepid  water  have 
been  deposited;  cover  over  and  let  rise  to  double  its  size  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes.  During 
this  time  range  the  balance  of  the  flour  in  a  circle,  and  lay  in  the  center  two  ounces  of  sugar,  half 
an  ounce  of  salt,  two  whole  eggs  and  two  and  a  half  gills  of  barely  warm  milk;  mix  the  ingredients 
together,  and  then  incorporate  gradually  all  of  the  flour;  the  dough  must  now  be  consistent; 
knead  it  well  and  cut  it  up  with  the  two  hands,  and  beat  it  on  the  table  for  a  few  moments  so  that 
it  acquires  body;  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  continue  kneading  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  As 
soon  as  the  leaven  is  ready  mix  in  thoroughly  with  the  dough  but  without  kneading  again;  lay  this 
in  a  basin,  sprinkle  over  lightly  with  flour,  cover  and  let  rise  for  one  hour  in  a  mild  temperature. 
At  the  expiration  of  that  time  it  should  have  doubled  its  original  height;  knead  it  once  more  and 
divide  it  into  half-pound  pieces;  divide  each  into  twelve  small  pieces,  obtaining  three-quarters  of  an 
ounce  in  each  one,  then  mold  these  into  small  balls  and  set  to  rise  for  twenty  minutes,  after- 
ward rolling  them  out  with  the  hand  into  four  and  a  half  inch  lengths;  range  them  at  once  on  a 
lightly  buttered  baking  sheet;  when  it  is  full  place  it  in  a  box  and  close  hermetically;  con- 
tinue to  prepare  and  mold  the  remainder  of  the  dough,  and  when  all  are  done  examine  the  first 
ones  that  were  molded,  and  should  they  be  sufficiently  raised,  or  increased  to  a  third  of  their 
original  size,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  eggs  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


(3420X  FLUTES  AND  SPLIT  EOLLS  (Flutes  et  Petits  Pains  Fendus). 

Flutes  and  split  rolls  are  made  with  a  dough  slightly  stiffer  than  for  the  jockos;  generally  both 
of  these  kind  of  rolls  are  molded  at  the  same  time.  Prepare  a  bread  dough  as  explained  before, 
working  it  exactly  the  same,  the  only  difference  being  it  must  be  kept  a  little  sciffer;  let  it  rise  for 
one  hour;  knead  it  again  to  stop  the  fermentation  and  remove  it  from  the  trough  to  the  table. 
Divide  it  up  into  two  and  a  half  ounce  pieces  and  form  them  into  balls;  range  these  at  short  dis- 
tances from  each  other  in  slightly  floured  boxes;  set  the  boxes  one  on  top  of  the  other  as  fast  as 
they  are  filled  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  at  the  expiration  of  this  time 
the  balls  are  ready  to  be  molded  into  any  shape  desired. 

For  Flutes  or  French  Rolls. — Lay  on  the  table  two  of  the  balls  of  dough,  beginning  with  those 
first  molded;  flatten  them  down  with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  raise  the  ends  of  the  dough  and  press 
these  ends  together;  roll  them  out  on  the  table  with  the  hands  to  finish  lengthening  them,  then 
lay  at  short  distances  from  each  other  in  boxes  lightly  dredged  with  white  Indian  meal.  Continue 
thus  until  half  of  the  balls  are  rolled  out.  Cover  these  boxes  by  setting  one  on  top  of  the  other 
and  leave  them  to  rise  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes. 

For  Split  Rolls. — During  the  time  the  flutes  are  rising  split  the  remainder  of  the  balls  of 
dough.  Take  six  of  these  balls  and  range  them  on  the  table  in  rows  of  two  and  two,  then  with  a 
small  rolling  pin,  as  described  in  the  article  on  utensils,  split  two  of  them  through  at  the  same 
time;  take  hold  of  the  edge  of  the  farthest  side  of  each  piece  and  bring  it  forward;  wrap  it  over 
half  of  the  front  piece  so  that  the  molding  is  on  top  and  the  split  side  underneath,  then  take  these 
split  rolls,  one  in  each  hand,  and  range  them  against  the  right  side  of  a  box  that  is  already  lined 
with  a  strip  of  coarse  linen,  laying  the  split  side  underneath;  raise  up  the  linen  on  the  left  of  the 
rolls  to  form  a  fold  which  answers  for  a  support,  so  that  while  the  rolls  are  rising  they  cannot  fall 
again.  Take  six  more  balls  of  dough,  range  them  on  the  table  two  by  two,  the  same  as  the  first 
ones;  split  and  lay  them  on  the  linen  against  the  others,  and  continue  this  operation  until  all  the 
rolls  are  shaped.  Cover  the  boxes  as  fast  as  they  are  filled,  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  twenty-five 
to  thirty  minutes.  As  soon  as  all  the  rolls  are  split  examine  the  flutes  to  see  whether  they  are  a 
third  larger  than  when  molded;  if  so  they  are  ready  to  be  placed  in  the  oven;  brush  them  over 
with  beaten  eggs  diluted  in  a  little  water,  using  a  feather  brush;  take  them  up  delicately  with  the 
hands,  one  by  one,  and  lay  them  on  the  peel;  cut  three  slanting  incisions  on  each  with  the  tip  of  a 
small  knife  and  place  them  in  the  oven.  As  soon  as  they  are  all  in,  close  the  oven  door  for  ten  to 
twelve  minutes,  according  to  the  degree  of  heat  therein;  when  a  fine  golden  color  take  them  out, 
beginning  with  those  first  put  in.  By  this  time  the  rolls  ought  to  be  ready  to  go  in  the  oven;  take 
them  from  the  linen,  six  at  a  time,  turning  them  over  on  to  the  board,  as  described  in  the  bread- 


BAKERY.  975 

making  utensils,  having  the  split  sides  uppermost,  removing  them  exactly  the  same  as  the  jockos; 
slide  them  on  the  peel,  and  place  them  in  an  oven  not  too  hot;  as  soon  as  they  are  all  in  close 
the  door  for  a  few  minutes,  and  when  done  take  them  out,  beginning  with  those  first  put  in. 

(3421).  SWEET  KOLLS,  OKESOENTS  AND  MUFFINS  (Petits  Pains  au  Lait  et  au  Beurre,  Crois- 
sants, Muffins). 

How  to  Prepare  the  Dough. — Sift  eight  pounds  of  flour  into  a  large  wooden  bowl;  make  a 
hollow  in  the  center  and  lay  in  it  three  ounces  of  yeast;  diluting  with  three  pints  of  barely  luke- 
warm water,  make  a  soft  sponge,  sprinkle  it  over  with  flour  and  leave  it  to  rise  in  a  mild  tempera- 
ture for  three  hours,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  heat,  and  until  the  sponge  doubles  itself,  then 
moisten  with  three  pints  of  milk  into  which  has  been  dissolved  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  three 
ounces  of  salt,  incorporating  at  the  same  time  a  pound  and  a  half  of  butter;  knead  well  and  divide 
it  into  small  pieces.  As  soon  as  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  incorporate  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  con- 
sistent dough  and  knead  it  well  to  give  it  plenty  of  body.  The  dough  being  now  finished  cut  it 
into  three  parts. 

Sweet  Rolls. — Put  one  of  these  parts  into  a  vessel,  sprinkle  it  lightly  with  flour  and  leave  it  to 
rise  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Crescents.  —Take  the  second  piece  of  dough,  put  it  into  a  basin  and  incorporate  four  ounces  of 
butter;  work  well  so  that  it  is  well  mixed,  then  leave  it  to  rise  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 

Muffins. — To  the  third  and  last  piece  add  a  little  milk  to  soften  and  obtain  a  mellow  dough, 
keeping  it  sufficiently  firm  to  be  able  to  mold  with  the  hand  on  the  table;  take  it  out  of  the  bowl, 
dredge  the  latter  with  flour  and  return  the  dough  to  it;  besprinkle  flour  over  the  top,  cover  and 
leave  it  to  rise,  the  same  as  the  other  two,  for  one  hour  and  a  half.  At  the  expiration  of  this  time 
the  three  pieces  of  dough  should  be  raised  to  double  their  height.  Knead  them  again  to  prevent 
fermentation;  they  are  now  ready  to  be  divided  and  molded. 

Sweet  Rolls. — Begin  with  the  sweet  rolls  and  operate  as  follows:  Break  it  into  two-ounce  pieces; 
roll  these  into  balls  and  place  them  as  fast  as  they  are  done  into  lightly  floured  boxes  at  short  dis- 
tances from  each  other;  dredge  slightly  with  flour,  cover  and  leave  them  to  rise  for  half  an  hour, 
then  roll  them  over  again  exactly  the  same  as  before,  giving  them  a  more  perfect  spherical  shape; 
range  these  balls  as  quickly  as  they  are  formed  into  lightly  buttered  baking  sheets  with  a  slight 
space  between  each,  and  as  soon  as  the  sheets  are  filled  put  them  into  boxes  and  cover;  let 
them  now  rise  from  one  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  they  should  be  one-third  larger  than  their 
original  size  and  are  then  ready  to  be  put  into  the  oven;  brush  the  surfaces  with  a  feather  brush 
dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  diluted  with  a  little  milk;  with  a  pair  of  scissors  make  four  deep  incisions 
so  as  to  form  a  cross,  then  push  them  into  a  slack  oven  and  let  bake  for  eighteen  or  twenty 
minutes. 

Crescents. — Crescents  are  to  be  molded  in  the  following  manner:  Lay  on  the  table  the  buttered 
dough  already  prepared  for  these;  divide  it  up  into  one  ounce  and  a  half  pieces  and  roll  them  into 
balls;  set  them  into  the  boxes  as  soon  as  done,  dredge  over  with  rye  flour,  cover  and  leave  them  to 
rise  for  thirty-five  to  forty  minutes,  then  lay  two  of  the  first  molded  balls  on  the  table  one  beside  the 
other,  a  short  distance  apart,  and  with  the  roller  used  for  rolls  flatten  down  the  two  balls  at  once,  to 
obtain  two  oval  pieces,  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  leaving  the  two  furthest  sides  a  little  thicker 
than  the  forward  ones,  then  with  the  left  hand  hold  the  nearest  or  front  one  of  these  flats,  and 
with  the  palm  of  the  right  hand  roll  it  over  on  itself,  beginning  with  the  back  or  thick  side,  and  bring 
it  forward  to  give  the  shape  of  a  shuttle,  six  inches  long,  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  in  the  center  and 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  at  the  ends;  lay  them  when  finished  on  a  lightly  buttered  baking  sheet, 
giving  them  the  shape  of  a  crescent,  and  finish  the  other  oval  layer  the  same,  continuing  until  all  the 
balls  are  molded;  as  fast  as  each  baking  sheet  is  filled  put  them  into  the  boxes,  cover  and  leave 
for  one  hour  to  one  hour  and  a  quarter;  brush  over  with  beaten  eggs  diluted  in  a  little  milk  and 
push  them  into  a  slow  oven  to  bake  for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Muffins.  —Lightly  butter  three  dozen  tin  muffin  rings  three  and  a  half  inches  across  and  one 
inch  high;  lay  them  on  two  lightly  buttered  baking  sheets.  Place  the  third  piece  of  dough — the 
one  softened  with  milk — on  the  table,  cut  it  into  an  ounce  and  three-quarters  pieces  ana  roll  them  all 
into  balls;  flatten  slightly  in  the  middle  and  lay  them  at  once  into  the  rings;  when  all  are  filled 
cover  over  with  two  more  lightly  buttered  baking  sheets,  set  a  weight  on  top  of  each  and  leave  the 


976  THK    EPICUREAN. 

dough  rise  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  push  them  gently  into  the  oven,  sheets,  weights  ?,nd  all, 
being  careful  not  to  disturb  them  whatever;  they  take  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  to 
bake;  turn  them  out  of  the  rings  as  soon  as  they  leave  the  oven. 

(3422).  CORN  BREAD  (Pain  de  Mais). 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  tin  basin;  work  it  to  a  cream  with  four  ounces  of  sugar,  add 
a  pinch  of  salt  and  four  eggs  singly,  also  a  gill  of  milk;  now  sift  in  one  pound  of  corn  flour  and 
half  a  pound  of  ordinary  flour  into  which  has  been  previously  added  two  coffeespoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  add  another  gill  of  milk  to  finish.  Butter  some  corn  bread  molds,  fill  them  three- 
quarters  full  with  the  preparation,  lay  them  on  baking-sheets  and  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  to  bake 
for  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes;  unmold  them  as  quickly  as  they  are  done  and  removed. 

(3423).  EYE  BREAD,  BOSTON  BROWN  BREAD  AND  GRAHAM  BREAD  (Pain  de  Seigle,  Pain 

Brun  de  Boston  et  Pain  de  Graham). 

The  dough  for  rye  bread  is  made  exactly  as  for  ordinary  bread  (see  the  article  on  bread  dough), 
the  only  difference  being  that  half  rye  and  half  wheat  flour  are  used;  a  few  caraway  seeds  may  be 
added  to  the  dough,  mixing  them  in  when  the  kneading  process  begins.  When  the  dough  is  finished 
and  sufficiently  raised,  cut  it  into  two-pound  pieces,  turn  and  roll  them  out  long-shaped  and  lay 
them  in  the  folds  of  linen  exactly  the  same  as  the  jockos.  Just  when  ready  to  put  into  the  oven, 
while  still  on  the  peel,  dampen  the  tops  with  water,  using  a  brush,  and  cut  a  few  slanting  incisions 
on  each  one  with  the  tip  of  a  small  knife,  then  set  them  in  the  oven  to  bake  for  forty-five 
minutes. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. — Place  in  a  basin  two  and  three-quarter  pounds  of  yellow  corn 
meal,  two  pounds  of  white  corn  meal,  one  and  three-quarter  pounds  of  rye  flour,  one  pound  of 
Boston  meal  and  an  ounce  of  salt.  Dilute  these  flours  with  one  pint  of  New  Orleans  molasses,  one 
pint  of  Potter  molasses,  one  quart  of  ferment  (No.  3410),  and  two  quarts  of  water;  mix  all  well 
together,  making  a  very  soft  paste,  then  cover  over  and  leave  it  in  a  mild  temperature  to  raise  for 
four  hours.  Then  add  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  glassful  of  water  and 
twelve  ounces  of  stale  bread  sifted  through  a  sieve;  mingle  all  well  together.  With  this  paste  fill 
three-quarters  full  some  buttered  timbale  molds  and  leave  the  paste  stand  for  one  hour.  Cover 
over  and  place  in  a  very  slow  oven  and  let  bake  for  six  hours. 

Graham  Bread. — Put  into  a  large  vessel  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  wheat  flour,  one  and  a 
quarter  pounds  of  Graham  flour,  a  coffieespoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  gill  of  molasses.  Onto  these 
ingredients  pour  one  and  a  quarter  pints  of  leaven,  and  one  and  a  quarter  pints  of  water.  Mix 
all  well  together  forming  a  dough  of  the  same  consistence  as  for  bread;  cover  and  leave  it  to  raise 
for  two  hours  in  a  mild  temperature.  Divide  the  dough  into  pound  and  a  quarter  pieces,  mold 
and  place  each  one  in  buttered  molds;  let  raise  again  for  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  then 
bake  in  a  very  slack  oven.  Graham  flour  is  made  of  the  wheat  ground  to  flour  and  left  unsifted, 
consequently  it  contains  the  bran  and  commoner  qualities  than  other  flours. 


ICES    (Glaces), 


(3424).  ICES  (Glaces). 

Preliminary  Remarks. — We  call  ice  (in  general)  a  solid  body,  formed  naturally  or  artificially 
from  a  fluid  substance,  such  as  water,  oil,  etc.,  frozen  to  a  certain  degree.  It  can  also  be  said  to 
be  a  fluid  compressed  by  the  lowering  of  the  temperature  to  zero.  Therefore,  ice  is  nothing  but 
crystallized  water,  lighter  than  liquid  water,  as  it  floats  on  its  surface.  In  alimentary  language 
ices  are  compounded  creams  or  liquors  made  to  freeze.  Many  books  have  been  written  on  the 
subject  of  ices,  and  many  serious  researches  have  been  made,  hence  it  is  not  our  intention  fo 

(977) 


978  THE    EPICUREAN. 

enter  into  the  various  details,  as  they  can  more  .easily  be  learned  by  consulting  these  divers  works. 
Still  we  have  considered  it  our  duty  to  recall  in  a  few  words  the  history  of  the  manufacture  of  these 
perfect  and  delicious  refreshments.     By  going  back  to  the  most  ancient  times  we  find,  especially 
in  southern  countries,  that  they  had  learned  of  the  benefits  to  be  derived  from  cool  drinks,  so  we 
suppose  the  use  of  ice  was  known  to  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  and  we  read  that  Hippocrates,  the 
father  of  medicine,  recognized  the  impropriety  of  its  use,  as  well  as  that  of  snow.     The  Orientals 
partook  of  iced  drinks,  also  the  Persians  and  the  Spaniards  had  vases  called  alcarazas  (in  French 
Gourgourlelles),   an    earthen    vessel  without    handles,  to    contain  and    keep    the    water  cold. 
Therefore,  the  progress  made  in  the  seventeenth  century  and  productive  of  such  vast  improvement 
was  but  the  realization  of  an  idea  discovered  centuries  before;  this  is  plain,  for  in  those  days  as  iu 
these,  they  understood  the  necessity  of  having  within  their  reach  refreshing  drinks  suitable  for 
the  hot  seasons  of  the  year.     Doubtless  they  were  far  from  possessing  the  resources  we  have  at  our 
disposal  to-day  as  regards  material,  for  it  was  only  at  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century  that  the 
use  of  ice-boxes  was  first  invented;  nevertheless,  our  forefathers  learned  how  to  utilize  the  natural 
means  at  their  command.     With  the  assistance  of  porous  vases  exposed  to  a  brisk  current  of  air, 
also  to  all  the  sunlight  possible,  and  by  wrapping  them  in  wet  cloths,  a  sufficient  degree  of  cold 
was  obtained  to  have  the  value  of  such  a  drink  appreciated,  while  suffering  from  the  heat  of  the 
climate.     Later,  the  people  were  not  satisfied  by  procuring  a  temporary  cool  liquid,  but  devised 
some  other  plan  by  which  they  could  retain  the  cold  they  had  thus  obtained.     The  only  way  to 
accomplish  this  was  to  transform  the  liquid  drinks  into  a  solid  mass — in  one  word  freeze  them.  The 
idea  was  rational,  but  chemistry,  a  science  so  thoroughly  restricted  in  those  days,  and  only  under- 
stood by  a  few  privileged  persons,  was  found  to  be  of  very  little  assistance.     However,  in  one  of 
Bacon's  works  (a  celebrated  physician  and  chemist  of  the  sixteenth  century),  we  find  a  sentence  which 
reads  as  follows:  "  It  is  evident  that  salt  when  mixed  with  ice  for  artificial  congealinents  increases 
the  action  of  the  cold."    At  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  seven- 
teenth century,  all  the  physicians  of  those  days  devoted  themselves  to  experimenting,  and  the 
result  of  their  researches  was  as  follows:  "  Ice  and  salt  are  the  most  active  principles  for  congeal- 
ing, observing  at  the  same  time  that  ammoniacal  salt  is  the  most  effective,  and  will  produce  the 
quickest  cooling  result."    Henceforth,  the  wonderful  progress  for  making  ices  was  rapid,  and  these 
wise  men  thought  they  had  at  last  reached  a  degree  of  perfection.     They  froze  liquors  in  tin  and 
leaden  boxes,  by  surrounding  them  with  a  powerful  refrigerating  mixture.     These  ices,  called 
rare    ices    and    served  only  in   sumptuous  repasts,   were   still  very  imperfect,   being  nothing 
else  than  blocks  of  solid  ice,  reminding  one  of  the  taste  of  the  liquor  used  in  their  fabrica- 
tion, but  being  so  remarkably  hard  that  the  pleasure  of  partaking  of  them  was  overbalanced  by 
the  great  difficulty  in  eating  them.     They  therefore  endeavored  to  obtain  a  result  more  satis- 
factory to  epicures.     Reamur  was  the  first  person,   in  the  year  1734,   to  refer  to  this  defect, 
and  try  to  ameliorate  its  condition.     It  was  observed  that  if  any  liquor  or  fruit  juice  and  sugar  be 
added  to  water  in  certain  proportions  and  that  this  mixture  be  submitted  to  a  sufficient  degree  of 
cold,  the  water  would  be  the  first  to  congeal,  while  the  sugars  and  syrups  were  the  last.     This 
defect  had  to  be  overcome,  therefore  they  found  that  by  cooking  a  certain  amount  of  sugar  in 
water  they  produced  a  syrup  which  they  could  afterward  weigh.     To  this  syrup  they  could  mix 
the  juices  of  different  fruits  and  freeze  the  preparation  without  any  fear  of  the  defective  results 
they  sought  to  obviate.     This  was  taking  a  great  stride  toward  a  final  success,  and  thereafter 
experience  alone  sufficed  to  teach  these  practitioners  how  to  acquire  the  best  results.     Instead  of 
leaving  the  mixture  to  refrigerate  alone  in  order  to  congeal  the  compositions,  they  endeavored  to 
find  how  to  increase  the  action  of  the  cold  by  giving  a  rotary  motion,  more  or  less  rapid,  to  the 
receiver  in  which  the  operation  takes  place.     This  is  why  they  began  to  employ  round,  elongated 
vessels,  so  much  easier  to  manage,  and  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  sorbotieres,  to-day  called 
sorbetieres  or  freezers.     The  round,  freezer  is  evidently  the  best  for  working  the  ices,  for  not  only 
does  its  shape  facilitate  the  rotary  movement  employed,  but  this  movement  also  connects  with  the 
liquid,  and  while  keeping  it  continually  well-mixed,  it  also  keeps  the  interior  sides  of  the  freezer 
covered  with  all  the  particles  of  water,  syrup  or  sugar,  of  which  it  is  composed.     These  simple 
methods  having  been  discovered  it  only  remained  to  find  the  means  of  improving  on  them.     It  is 
not  our  intention  to  follow  step  by  step  all  the  contrivances  invented  for  the  making  of  ices.     The 
most  important  fact  was  discovered  that  by  careful  manipulation  a  composition  could  be  obtained 
not  only  agreeable  to  the  taste,  but  easier  to  swallow  and  to  relish.     However,  we  do  not  intend 
concluding  our  preliminary  remarks  without  giving  some  general  advice  on  the  manner  of  cooking 
sugar,  on  the  precautions  necessary  to  the  manufacture  of  the  frozen  preparation,  and  also  on  the 
way  to  mold  and  unmold  ice  cream  figures. 


ICES. 


979 


(3425).  COMPOSITIONS  FEOZEN  BY  MACHINE  (Compositions  Glacis  a  la  Machine). 
Have  a  machine  of  basin  or  pear  shape.  The  basin-shaped  machine  should  be  fifteen  inches 
in  diameter  by  fifteen  inches  in  height  and  rounded  at  the  bottom,  to  be  provided  with  a  tinned 
iron  rod  running  through  the  freezer  and  fitting  into  a  gear  with  a  pivot  below  (see  Fig.  611).  Put 
the  cover  on  the  freezer  and  pack  it  in  salted  ice;  remove  the  cover  and  pour  into  the  freezer 
(which  contains  about  thirty  quarts),  six  quarts  of  preparation,  or  the  fifth  part  of  its  capacity. 


FIG.  611. 

Turn  the  freezer  by  hand  or  by  steam  and  detach  the  composition  as  fast  as  it  adheres  to  the  sides. 
As  soon  as  the  cream  is  sufficiently  consistent,  transfer  it  to  a  long  freezer  packed  in  salted  ice 
(see  how  to  pack  in  ice,  No.  3432).  Several  compositions  can  be  frozen  one  after  the  other  without 
washing  out  the  freezer,  by  beginning  to  freeze  the  composition  containing  the  least  color,  and 
being  careful  to  remove  any  particles  of  cream  remaining  after  the  operation  is  finished. 

(3426).  HOW  TO  COOK  THE  OEEAM  FOE  ICES  (Maniere  de  Ouire  les  Oremes  pour  les  Glaces) 
First  boil  the  milk  or  cream.  If  with  vanilla  or  white  coffee  infuse  either  of  these  into  the 
milk  or  cream.  Put  the  yolks  or  whites  of  eggs  in  a  tinned  basin  of  sufficient  size  not  to  have 
the  mixture  rise  to  over  three-quarters  of  the  height  of  the  vessel;  add  sugar  to  the  yolks  or  whites, 
beating  it  in  well  with  a  whisk;  then  add  the  boiling  milk  or  cream.  Set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire 
or  in  a  bain-marie;  stir  continuously  with  the  spatula  until  the  composition  be  of  a  sufficient  thick- 
ness to  cover  this  spatula,  which  will  occur  a  few  moments  before  it  begins  to  boil;  remove  it  from 
the  fire  or  bain-marie  and  then  strain  through  a  Venice  or  plated  copper  wire  sieve;  stir  occasion- 
ally while  cooling  and  freeze  when  thoroughly  cold.  For  cooked  ice  cream  be  careful  to  select 
only  the  freshest  eggs  and  milk;  the  most  important  point  to  be  observed  in  these  creams  is  to 
have  the  eggs  cooked,  allowing  them  to  proceed  as  far  as  possible  without  actually  boiling,  then 
pour  quickly  through  a  sieve  and  stir  steadily  until  most  of  the  heat  is  lost. 

(3427),  HOW  TO  FEEEZE  BY  HAND  IN  A  LONG  COVEEED  FEEEZEE  (Maniere  de  Glacer  a  la 

Main  Dans  une  Sorbetiere  Longue  et  Couverte). 

Procure  a  tin  freezer  with  a  tinned  copper  bottom,  in  preference  to  all  others,  or  else  one  of 
block  tin;  also  a  wooden  pail  deeper  than  the  freezer;  this  pail, 
made  expressly  for  freezing  purposes,  must  be  bored  with  two 
holes;  one  two  inches  above  the  bottom  and  another  an  inch 
and  a  half  below  the  top  of  the  freezer.  Close  these  holes  with 
well-fitting  corks  that  can  easily  be  removed.  Put  at  the 
bottom  of  the  pail  a  flat  piece  of  ice  about  four  inches  thick — 
this  is  to  facilitate  the  rotary  movement  of  the  freezer — lay  the 
freezer  exactly  in  the  center  and  pack  it  around  with  ice.  as  des- 
cribed in  No.  3432;  now  lift  off  the  cover,  pour  in,  to  a  third  of 
its  height,  the  prepared  composition  needed  for  freezing,  turn  the 
freezer  rapidly  by  its  handle  to  the  right  and  then  to  the  left,  and 
as  soon  as  the  ice  attaches  to  the  sides  detach  it  by  sliding  the 

spatula  or  palette  along  the  sides  of  the  freezer  from  the  top  as  far  down  as  the  bottom.  Cover 
the  freezer,  turn  and  detach  again  and  repeat  the  same  operation  until  the  cream  is  found  to  be  of 


980 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


a  sufficient  consistency,  then  finish  freezing  and  have  it  acquire  body,  while  working  vigorously 
with  the  spatula,  giving  the  freezer  a  rotary  movement  at  each  turn  with  the  spatula.  If  the 
cream  cannot  be  finished  without  repacking  the  freezer,  then  let  a  little  of  the  water  run  out  and 
repack  it  once  more. 


(3428).  HOW  TO  FEEEZE  BY  HAND  IN  A  WIDE,  UNCOVEKED  FREEZER  (Maniere  de  Glacer  a 

la  Main  Dans  une  Sorbetiere  Large  et  De"couverte). 

To  accomplish  this  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  wide  and  not  very  deep  freezer; 
pack  it  in  a  pail  of  sufficient  size  to  allow  three  inches  of  ice  all  around;  add  a  little 
salted  water  to  the  ice  so  as  to  loosen  the  freezer  before  beginning  the  operation. 
The  inside  measurements  of  the  pail  should  be  sixteen  inches  deep  and  sixteen 
inches  in  diameter,  so  that  when  the  freezer  is  packed  it  will  be  on  a  level  with  the 
pail.  Pour  two  or  three  quarts  of  the  composition  into  the  freezer,  put  on  the  lid 
and  turn  it  to  the  right  and  left  until  the  movement  becomes  easy  to  perform. 
Lift  off  the  cover;  take  hold  of  the  edge  of  the  freezer  between  the  thumb  and  first 
finger  and  with  the  palm  of  the  right  hand  give  it  a  continuous  rotary  movement, 
detaching  the  ice  as  fast  as  it  adheres  to  the  sides,  and  continue  the  operation  until 
FIG.  616.  the  preparation  has  congealed  sufficiently;  then  transfer  it  to  another  freezer  packed 

beforehand  in  ice,  putting  only  a  little  in  at  a  time;  in  this  way  it  is  easier  to  work  and  the  ices 

become  much  finer. 


(3429).  MACHINE  WITH  LONG  FREEZES  (Machine  avec  Sorbetiere  Longue). 
Have  a  machine  with  two  or  three  pails  and  freezers  of  various  sizes,  according  to  require- 
ments (for  this  see  design,  Fig.  617).  Proportions  for  a  machine 
containing  eighteen  quarts  and  for  one  containing  twelve:  Put  the 
composition  into  the  freezer  packed  in  the  pail,  not  having  it  reach 
above  half  the  height  of  the  freezer;  in  the  center  stand  the  detaching 
apparatus,  intended  for  the  purpose  of  detaching  the  cream  from 
the  sides — this  turns  one  way  and  the  freezer  itself  in  the  opposite 
direction;  in  this  manner  it  detaches  the  cream  from  the  sides, 
making  it  much  lighter.  Put  the  cover  on  the  detaching  apparatus 
and  turn  the  freezer  for  ten  minutes,  either  by  steam  or  hand. 
After  the  cream  is  congealed  take  the  spatula  and  detach  any  cream 
adhering  to  it.  Should  it  have  to  remain  in  the  same  freezer,  pack 
it  once  more  in  ice  (No.  3432).  Proportions  for  an  eighteen-quart 
freezer:  The  inside  pail  is  twenty-four  inches  high;  diameter  across 
the  opening  thirteen  and  a  half  inches;  diameter  across  the  bottom 
twelve  inches.  Either  size  should  be  made  of  oak  an  inch  thick. 
The  freezer  for  this  pail  must  be  nineteen  and  a  half  inches  high 
by  eight  inches  in  diameter.  For  the  inside  measurements  of  a 
twelve-quart  freezer,  have  the  height  of  the  pail  twenty-one  inches 

by  thirteen  inches  in  diameter  at  the  opening,  the  bottom  to  be  eleven  and  a  half  inches.  The 
freezer  for  this  pail  must  measure  eighteen  and  a  half  inches  in  height  and  seven  and  a  half  in 
diameter. 


(3430).  MANNER  OF  FREEZING,  NEAPOLITAN  STYLE  (Maniere  de  Glacer  a  la  Napolitaine). 

Have  a  tin  freezer  (sorbetiere)  capable  of  holding  sixteen  quarts  of  preparation ;  imbed  it  in 

salted  ice,  and  pour  into  it  eight  quarts  of  composition,  then   turn  the  freezer  from  right  to  left, 

and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  easy  to  turn  seize  the  edges  between  the  thumb  and  first  finger  of  the 

right  hand,  and  move  it  with  a  continuous   motion.     After  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  ice  adheres,  remove  it  with  a  copper  spoon   (Fig. 
FlQ  61g  618),  to  detach  it  from  bottom  to  top.     Another  tin  freezer  must 

be  imbedded  beforehand.     Put  into  this  second   freezer    the    ice 

taken  from  the  first;  another  person  must  now  work  this  ice  until  it  becomes  perfectly  smooth, 
and  then  transfer  it  once  more  into  a  third  freezer,  packed  in  salted  ice,  to  preserve  it.  Ices 
made  this  way  are  remarkably  smooth,  and  can  be  molded  at  once. 


ICES.  981 

(3431).  HOW  TO  MOLD,  PEEEZE  AND  UNMOLD  SMALL  IOES  AND  LARGE  ONES  REPRE- 
SENTING FIGURES,  ETC.  (Maniere  de  Mouler,  Trapper  et  DSmouler  les  Petites  Glaces  et 
les  Grosses  Pieces  Kepre'sentant  des  Sujets). 

To  mold  ices  representing  any  object  or  subject  whatsoever  calls  for  the  greatest  amount  of 
care,  otherwise  a  defective  result  will  ensue.  When  small  ices  or  half  ices  are  required  for  molding, 
such  as  those  representing  flowers,  fruits,  etc.,  lay  the  molds  on  unsalted  ice  so  they  become 
thoroughly  cold.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pail  with  a  layer  of  salted  ice,  having  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  it  to  form  a  bed  three  inches  deep;  then  take  the  mold  in  the  left  hand  and  in  the 
right  a  copper  spoon  (Fig.  618,  a  Neapolitan  spoon),  this  being  used  to  take  up  the  various 
ices  meant  for  filling  the  molds.  It  should  be  kept  continually  in  water  so  as  to  keep  it  clean,  as  it 
is  us^d  for  different  creams.  Press  down  the  composition  without  inclosing  any  air  between  the 
mold  and  the  ice;  in  this  way  it  can  adhere  to  the  various  designs  imprinted  on  the  mold,  leaving 
no  empty  space  whatever  between.  Now,  having  the  mold  full,  close  it  forcibly,  bringing  the  cover 
down  well  on  to  it,  and  with  the  finger  remove  any  surplus  ice  that  may  issue  from  the  intersections 
of  the  mold.  After  it  is  pressed  down  stand  it  on  a  bed  of  prepared  salted  ice  and  over  lay  more 
of  the  same  ice.  Continue  thus  to  mold  and  pack  down  until  all  the  molds  are  finished,  then  cover 
the  whole  with  ice  and  salt;  leave  to  freeze  for  one  hour  or  more,  according  to  the  composition 
used,  the  size  of  the  mold,  and  also  according  to  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere.  When 
it  becomes  a  question  of  molding  more  important  ices,  such  as  figures,  subjects,  etc.,  after  cooling 
the  molds  thoroughly  lay  them  on  a  slightly  raised  bed  of  rice  and  salt,  so  that  they  can  be  filled 
cautiously  and  with  facility,  for  it  requires  every  possible  precaution  in  order  to  form  these  figures 
properly.  Close  the  mold  furnished  with  pins.  After  filling  it  well,  beginning  from  the  bottom 
put  on  the  lid  and  press  it  down  forcibly,  removing  any  surplus  ice  issuing  from  the  joints,  and 
pack  the  mold  in  plenty  of  salted  ice  (No.  3432),  leaving  it  in  as  long  as  judged  proper,  a  two-quart 
mold  requiring  about  two  hours. 

To  Unmold. — Take  the  mold  out  of  the  ice,  remove  any  surplus  ice  on  the  outside,  and  the 
pins  from  the  hinges,  then  plunge  the  mold  thoroughly  and  hastily  in  hot  water;  lift  off  the  cover 
and  lay  the  fancy  ice  mold  bottom  downward  on  a  napkin;  detach  all  the  parts  quickly  but  cau- 
tiously from  the  mold  so  as  not  to  deform  the  piece.  Those  of  a  larger  size  are  usually  dressed  on 
colored  natural  ice  socles;  these  ices  may  be  painted  over  with  small  badger  brushes  dipped  in 
vegetal  colors  into  which  a  little  syrup  has  been  mixed.  The  base  of  the  molds  intended  to  stand 
on  socles  should  be  of  ice  cream  and  not  too  rich,  as  they  support  the  weight  of  the  whole  piece. 
When  packed  in  ice  the  base  of  the  mold  should  always  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  pail;  cover  this 
with  a  cloth,  packing  it  down  well  between  the  ice  and  pail. 

(3432).  TO  PACK  SORBETIERES  OR  FREEZERS  IN  ICE  (Pour  Sangler  les  Sorbetieres). 

Salt  and  saltpetre  are  the  active  agents  used  for  freezing.  The  quantity  employed  is  one 
pound  of  salt  for  four  pounds  of  ice,  this  being  a  pro- 
portionately active  mixture  for  freezing  the  very  richest 
cream  and  water  ices.  The  salt  and  ice  can  be  ranged 
in  alternate  layers  or  else  have  the  whole  mixed  well 
together  in  a  pail;  in  either  case  place  ice  around  the 
freezer  and  pack  it  down  well  with  the  palette.  Repeat 
this  operation  every  time  more  salted  ice  is  to  be  packed. 
Always  pay  attention  that  sorbetieres  turned  by  hand 
are  to  be  packed  lower  than  the  edge  of  the  pail,  so 
that  when  the  ice  is  finished  the  cover  of  the  freezer  may 
be  adjusted  as  well  as  the  cover  on  the  pail.  In  houses 
where  ices  are  being  constantly  made  they  have  boxes 
lined  with  galvanized  sheet-iron  cylinders,  and  the  empty 

space  between  the  box  and  the  cylinder  is  filled  either  FIG.  619. 

with  charcoal  dust,  tow  or  sawdust,  as  well  as  the  covers; 

each  cylinder  must  be  provided  with  a  hole  one  inch  in  diameter  and  two  inches  from  the  bottom 
to  allow  the  water  to  run  out.  In  case  the  water  should  not  be  allowed  to  flow  off,  then  it  will  be 
prudent  to  bore  a  hole  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  one  inch  lower  than  the  height  of  the  freezer. 

(3433).  FOR  FREEZING  WATER  BOTTLES  (Pour  Frapper  les  Carafes). 

Water  bottles  are  easily  frozen,  only  be  careful  to  follow  closely  the  ensuing  instructions.  If 
a  handsome  looking  bottle  is  required,  it  must  be  of  a  spherical  shape,  slightly  longer  than  its 


982 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


width  and  of  ordinary  thick  glass;  it  must  invariably  be  clean,  and  then  filled  slightly  less  than 
half  full  or  a  little  lower  than  the  circumference  line  of  the  sphere,  with  filtered  water.  Mix  three- 
quarters  of  very  finely  chopped  ice  with  one-quarter  of  rock  salt;  range  the  bottles  in  a  box  suffi- 
ciently large  to  hold  twenty,  leaving  an  inch  space  between  each; 
cover  the  neck  of  the  bottle  with  a  tinned  copper  cup,  having  a 
round  bottom,  or  else  with  a  specially  made  rubber  cork  (Fig.  620); 
cover  entirely  with  salted  ice,  raising  them  all  up  so  that  the  ice 
passes  slightly  underneath  each  bottle;  neglect  of  this  precaution 
will  break  all  the  bottles  in  the  box.  Pack  the  ice  around,  cover 
the  box  with  a  hermetically  closed  cover,  and  an  hour  later  raise  up 
the  bottles,  one  by  one,  and  give  each  a  rotary  movement  to  hasten 
the  freezing;  withdraw  all  the  superfluous  water  above  two-thirds 
of  the  height  of  the  ball  of  the  bottle,  and  leave  in  again  for  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  finish  freezing;  remove  the  faucet  that  keeps  the 
water  in  the  box,  let  this  run  out,  and  besides  remove  the  corks 
from  the  necks  of  the  bottles;  when  ready  to  serve  lift  them  out, 
wash  in  cold  water  and  fill  with  filtered  ice  water. 

(3434).  PLAIN  WATEE  SOCLES,  OOLOEED  (Socles  d'eau  Naturelle, 

Colored). 

Procure  a  box  sufficiently  wide  and  deep  to  contain  all  the  molds 
needed  for  making  the  socles  and  sherbets;  into  it  put  a  mixture  of 
^itil     sa^  an<*  'ce  ecluivalent  to  tne  quantity  used  for  packing  freezers; 
into  this  imbed  the  molds  in  such  a  way  that  they  are  not  too  close 
FlG.  620.  to  one  another,  having  all  their  sides  well  surrounded  by  the  ice,  so 

that  when  the  water  is  poured  into  these  molds  their  surfaces  will 

be  perfectly  horizontal;  for  this  examine  the  basket  shown  in  Fig.  621.  The  mold  for  this 
basket  is  made  in  two  pieces;  imbed  the  bottom  or  foot  in  the  salted  ice;  into  it  pour  water  colored 
green  or  blue  and  as  the  foot  is  to  be  of  uniform  tint  fill  it  entirely,  then  leave  to  freeze.  Now 
place  the  upper  part  of  the  mold  in  salted  ice,  pour  in  water 
to  reach  halfway,  having  mixed  a  little  milk  into  it  to 
render  it  opaque.  Cover  the  box  with  a  raised  edge  sheet 
of  zinc  and  fill  this  with  more  salted  ice  and  let  freeze.  As 
soon  as  the  whitened  water  is  frozen  fill  the  remainder  of 
the  mold  with  red  water.  These  colored  waters  should  be 
used  perfectly  cold  and  the  last  ones  poured  in  only  after  the 
first  ones  are  congealed.  The  colors  may  be  varied  accord- 
ing to  the  taste  of  the  one  preparing  the  socles  and  glasses. 
It  is  most  important  to  remember  that  no  salted  water 
whatever  must  penetrate  into  the  molds,  otherwise  it  will 

melt  and  eat  away  the  ice  already  congealed  and  deteriorate  FIG.  621. 

the  beauty  of  these  socles  and  glasses.     The  unmolding  is  the 

same  as  for  ices.  Socles  are  to  be  dressed  on  folded  napkins  and  glasses  on  lace  papers.  Ices  can  also 
be  dressed  on  blocks  of  ice  cut  any  desired  size  and  shape.  To  keep  these  blocks  together,  iron 
rods  can  be  procured,  having  on  one  end  a  sheet  iron  ring  and  on  the  other  a  nut  screw  to  hold 
the  whole  together.  These  rods  are  to  be  inserted  in  a  hole  through  the  center  of  the  socle 
formed  with  a  tube  foot  in  the  center  of  the  mold  and  held  in  place  with  butter,  being  cai-eful  to 
have  it  water-tight,  so  the  liquid  cannot  penetrate.  They  can  be  decorated  with  grasses  and 
flowers  maintained  by  wires  introduced  into  the  water  when  it  first  begins  to  congeal.  Blocks  of 
all  sizes  can  be  made  in  square,  oblong,  round  or  oval  molds,  having  a  hollow  formed  in  the  middle; 
for  these  special  molds  must  be  procured. 

(3435).   ICED  BISCUITS,  DIPLOMATE  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  BISCUIT  OASES  (Biscuits  Glace's 

a  la  Diplomate  et  Maniere  de  Paire  les  Boites  a  Biscuits). 

To  make  these  biscuits  use  a  vanilla  biscuit  preparation  (No.  3438),  or  else  vanilla  ice  cream  (No. 
3458)  beaten  in  a  metal  bowl  with  as  much  whipped  cream  mixed  with  it.  Cut  candied  fruits  into 
three-sixteenths  inch  squares,  lay  them  in  a  bowl,  pour  over  a  little  kirsch  and  let  soak  while  cov- 
ered, adding  a  few  crushed  macaroons.  Fill  the  cases  half  full  with  the  preparation,  lay  a  bed  of 


ICES. 


983 


the  fruits  and  macaroons  on  top  and  then  another  layer  of  the  cream,  filling  the  cases  to 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  below  the  edge  of  the  box.  Freeze  the  biscuits  and  cover  with  a  layer  of 
whipped  cream  tinted  rose-pink,  mixing  in  a  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon;  return  the  biscuits  to  the 
freezing  box  and  finish  freezing. 

Biscuit  Cases. — Boxes  for  biscuit  glaces  are  made  with  sheets  of  very  strong  paper,  generally  a 
little  longer  than  their  width,  being  six  and  a  half  inches  long  and  six  inches  wide.  In  order  to 
make  these  boxes  take  one  of  these  sheets  of  paper  and  fold  it  lengthwise  on  itself  in  three  even 
parts;  again  refold  the  two  lateral  parts  on  themselves  lengthwise  on  the  outside,  thus  forming  a 
long  band  open  in  the  center.  These  last  two  folds  form  the  double  lateral  edges  of  the  box.  Again 
fold  this  band  transversely  on  the  open  side  into  three  parts,  but  in  such  a  way  that  the  two  extreme 
ends  exactly  meet  at  the  center  of  the  band.  Open  all  the  folds  except  the  two  forming  the  outside 
edges  of  the  box,  and  when  this  is  done  there  will  be  found  traced  on  the  paper  the  various  lines 
representing  the  bottom,  the  center  and  the  four  sides,  besides  four  small  rectangular  corners 
which  are  used  for  closing  the  box.  Fold  each  of  these  four  rectangulars  all  on  the  inside  so  as  to 
trace  on  each  one  an  almost  diagonal  line  beginning  at  the  bottom  angle  of  the  box.  Now,  by  fol- 
lowing the  lines  of  these  folds,  raise  the  lateral  sides  of  the  box,  also  the  ends,  at  a  straight  angle 
with  the  bottom;  by  folding  the  small  rectangulars  at  the  almost  diagonally  traced  line  the  result 
will  be  the  angles  of  the  box  by  the  junction  of  the  prolonged  lines  traced  on  the  bottom  of  the  box; 
then  bring  the  two  wings  of  each  end,  which  are  exteriorly  against  and  in  the  center  of  the  small 
edges,  or  ends,  of  the  box.  Fold  outward  the  corners  of  the  two  ends,  exceeding  the  edges  of  the 
box  so  as  to  form  two  truncated  triangles;  fold  over  these  triangles  on  the  outside  against  the  nar- 
row ends  of  the  box  and  seal  them  down. 

Another  Way  to  Make  Biscuit  Cases. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  sheet  of  strong  white  paper;  cut  it 
about  twice  as  long  as  its  width,  so  as  to  give  it  an  oblong  shape.  Fold  this  paper  lengthwise  in 
three  on  its  length,  then  refold  the  two  sides  on  themselves  on  the  outside  so  as  to  double  them, 
and  thus  form  a  long,  straight  band,  open  on  one  side  only;  fold  the  double  points  of  the  angles 
inwardly  again  so  as  to  have  the  band  pointed  on  each  end;  now  fold  these  two  ends  on  the  inner 
side,  simply  to  form  the  fold,  open  the  band,  press  the  folds  well  and  the  box  will  be  formed. 
The  narrow  sides  of  the  band  form  the  length  of  the  case. 

(3436).  EXCELSIOR  BISCUIT  (Biscuit  Excelsior). 

Have  ready  a  vanilla  biscuit  preparation  (No.  3438),  line  a 
large  biscuit  case,  the  size  being  explained  in  the  vanilla  biscuit 
recipes;  fill  it  half  full  with  the  preparation.  Divide  lady  fingers 
lengthwise  in  two  or  three  pieces  the  same  length  as  the  box;  soak 
them  in  maraschino,  then  place  in  the  cases  over  the  first  layer 
of  preparation,  filling  with  more  of  the  same.  Put  them  in  a  freez- 
ing box;  freeze  and  ice  over  half  their  length  with  orange  water  ice 
(No.  3605),  the  other  half  with  raspberry 
(No. 3607);  in  the  center  place  a  small  size 
rose,  molded  in  lemon  ice  (No.  3604),  and 
on  each  side  on  the  length  place  a  lozenge 
FIG.  622.  of  pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454).  FIG.  623. 

(3437).  ICED  BISCUITS  A  LA  D'OELEANS  (Biscuits  Glacis  a  la  d'0rle~ans). 
Procure  a  tin  box  with  a  cover  closing  on  the  outside.     The  interior  should  measure  eight 
inches   in  length,  five  and  three-quarters  in  width  and 
one  and  three-quarters  deep.     Fit  the  bottom  of  this 
with     twelve    small    cardboard 
cases,  all  together  being  the  exact 
size  of  the  bottom  of  the  box  and 
each  half  an  inch   high.      Pour 
in  sufficient  vanilla  biscuit  prep- 
aration (No.  3438)  to  fill  up  the 
tin  box  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  below  the  top,  put  on 

the  cover  and  close  the  joints  with  butter,  then  pack  the  box  in  salted  ice;  leave  it  for  at  least 
an  hour  and  a  half,  being  careful  that  the  water  does  not  rise  higher  than  the  bottom  of  the 
box;  take  out  the  box,  wipe,  remove  the  cover  and  finish  filling  to  the  t^p  with  strawberry  water 


FIG.  624. 


984 


THE    EPICURE  AN. 


FIG.  626. 


ice  (No.  3607);  smooth  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  replace  the  cover  and  fasten  it  once  more  with 
butter;  freeze  for  one  hour  longer.  Then  remove  both  box  and  cover,  wipe  well  and  pass  a  thin 
knife  all  around  the  inside.  Dip  the  bottom  into  hot  water,  unmold  so  that  it  turns  over  in  a 
single  block,  then  reverse  it  to  have  the  strawberry  ice  on  top.  Divide  the  biscuit  into  twelve  equal- 
sized  parts,  the  exact  size  of  the  cases,  and  dress  each  one  on  a  round  piece  of  fancy  lace  paper. 

(3438),  ICED  BISCUITS  WITH  VANILLA  AND  STRAWBERRY,  MELON  SHAPED  (Biscuits 
Glac6s  a  la  Vanille  et  aux  Praises,  et  en  Forme  de  Melon). 

Put  eight  egg  yolks  in  a  small  tinned  basin  with  three  gills  of  thirty-five  degree  sjrup,  four 
gills  of  rich  cream  and  a  vanilla  bean  split  lengthwise  in  two;  beat  the  whole  together  and  when 

well  mingled  set  the  basin  on  the  fire  and  stir  constantly  with  a 
spatula  until  it  covers  it  thoroughly  with  a  thick  layer,  then 
remove  from  the  fire  and  strain  the  preparation  through  a  Venice 
sieve.  Wash  the  basin  thoroughly  and  return  the  cream  to  it; 
lay  the  basin  on  ice,  beat  and  when  the  composition  is  very  firm 
incorporate  therein  a  quart  of  whipped  cream.*  With  this  mixture 
fill  some  cases  (Fig.  623)  three-quarters  full  and  freeze  them  in  a 
freezing  box  (a  square  box  furnished  with  movable  tin  shelves  on 
the  inside,  they  being  perforated  with  large  holes).  When  frozen 
finish  filling  with  strawberry  or  any  ocher  water  ice;  smooth  with 
a  knife  and  return  to  the  freezing  box  to  finish  freezing.  The 
inside  dimensions  of  large  cases  are  four  and  a  half  inches  long,  two  and  a  half  wide  and  one  and 
one-sixteenth  deep;  the  medium  cases  measure  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  one  and  seven-eighths 
wide  and  one  inch  deep. 

•Iced  biscuits  can  also  be  ranged  in  melon-shaped  molds;  coat  these  over  with  strawberry 
water  ice  (No.  3607),  into  which  mix  twice  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50),  and  finish  filling 
with  the  above  vanilla  biscuit  preparation;  freeze  and  unmold  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(3439).  BOMB  A  LA  CONST  ANTINE  (Bombe  a  la  Constantino). 

Take  a  special  hinged  mold,  the  same  as  for  Fig.  627;  it  must  have  a  hollow  on  the  top,  into 
which  place  a  double  mold  filled  with  cotton  and  alcohol  and  set  on  fire 
when  serving.  The  inside  of  the  mold  must  be  coated  with  chocolate  ice 
cream,  into  which  mix  half  as  much  whipped  cream.  Fill  the  hollow  space 
in  the  inside  with  a  preparation  made  as  follows:  Melt  five  ounces  of  sweet 
chocolate  and  five  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  quart  of  hot  water;  after  the  choco- 
late is  all  dissolved  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  and  leave  to  cool;  pour 
the  top  off  gently  an  hour  later  and  reduce  it  to  three  gills.  Break  sixteen 
egg-yolks  in  a  basin,  beat  with  three  gills  of  thirty-two  degree  syrup  and 
three  and  a  half  gills  of  water  and  the  chocolate:  set  this  on  a  slow  fire  and 
stir  steadily  until  the  composition  covers  the  spatula  well,  then  strain  through 
a  sieve,  return  it  to  the  basin,  lay  on  ice  and  beat,  adding  half  as  much  well- 
drained  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Fill  the  mold  quite  full  with  this,  close  tightly 
and  freeze.  A  two  quart  bomb  will  require  two  hours'  freezing.  Unmold 
and  dress  on  a  ring  of  white  chocolate  ice  cream,  the  proportions  for  making  FIG.  ear. 

it  being  three  and  a  half  gills  of  clarified  sugar  at  thirty-two  degrees,  three  and  a  half  gills  of  water, 
sixteen  egg-yolks,  and  eight  ounces  of  cocoa  infused  in  the  syrup  with  a  vanilla  bean  split  lengthwise 
in  two.  Decorate  around  with  Africans  (No.  3364)  and  pistachio  lady  bouchees  (No.  3376). 

(3440).  BOMB  A  LA  TROBRIAND  AND  PIPTH  AVENUE  (Bombe  k  la  Trobriand  et  k  la 

Cinquieme  Avenue). 

Imbed  a  bomb-shaped  mold  (Fig.  627)  in  ice;  remove  its  lid  and  coat  it  perpendicularly,  half 
with  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  :ind  half  with  pistachio  (No.  3454).  Fill  the  inside  with  the 
following  preparation:  Pound  seven  ounces  of  filberts  or  sweet  almonds;  moisten  little  at  a  time 
with  a  pint  of  water  and  three  gills  01  thirty-five  degree  syrup.  Break  eighteen  egg-yolks  in  a 
saucepan  or  tinned  copper  basin,  add  the  almond  milk  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  set  it  on  a  slow 
fire  and  stir  steadily  until  sufficiently  cooked  so  that  it  covers  the  spatula;  strain  through  a  sieve. 


*Iu  all  cases  where  reference  is  made  to  a  given  quantity  of  whipped  cream  the  quantity  stated  should  be  understood 
as  meaning  when  the  cream  is  whipped  ana  not  in  its  liquia  state. 


ICES.  985 

return  it  to  the  well-cleaned  basin,  and  add  the  same  quantity  of  thoroughly  drained  whipped 
cream.  Fill  up  the  coated  mold,  cover  with  paper,  put  on  its  lid,  imbed  in  salted  ice,  and  if  the 
mold  contains  two  quarts  freeze  it  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 

For  Fifth  Avenue  Bomb. — Have  the  same  preparation;  coat  the  mold  with  strawberry  ice 
cream  only  when  it  is  frozen;  dip  in  hot  water,  unmold  on  a  napkin,  and  decorate  with  small  cakes. 

(3441).  PRINTANIER  FRUIT  BOMB  (Bombe  anx  Traits  Printaniere). 

Pack  a  bomb  mold  (Fig.  627)  in  salted  ice  and  cover  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  layer  of 
strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451),  having  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  fill  in  the  hollow  with  a 
preparation  made  as  follows:  In  a  tin  basin  have  fourteen  egg  yolks,  six  gills  of  twenty-degree 
syrup,  and  a  vanilla  bean  split  lengthwise  in  two;  mingle  well,  and  set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire; 
cook  until  the  composition  covers  the  spoon  or  spatula,  then  remove,  strain,  return  it  to  the  clean 
basin  and  set  it  on  ice;  beat  thoroughly  to  have  it  light,  adding  one  quart  of  firm  whipped  cream, 
drained  for  two  hours  on  a  sieve;  mix  well  together  and  pour  this  preparation  into  the  mold,  filling 
it  entirely;  place  over  a  sheet  of  paper  and  the  cover;  pack  in  salted  ice,  and  allow  one  hour's 
freezing  for  each  quart  of  cream.  After  the  bomb  is  properly  frozen  unmold  on  an  ice-cold  dish 
and  garnish  around  with  a  macedoine  of  fruits  steeped  in  maraschino. 

(3442).  ROMAN  BOMB  (Bombe  a  la  Eomaine). 

Add  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  to  one  quart  of  cream;  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  freeze  and  work 
it  briskly,  adding  gradually  two  gills  of  rum  stirred  with  two  ounces  of  sugar;  incorporate  two 
Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140).  Coat  a  two  quart  bomb-shaped  mold  (Fig.  627)  with 
pineapple  ice  cream  (No.  3451),  fill  it  with  the  above,  then  cover,  and  pack  it  for  two  hours  in 
salted  ice.  Take  the  mold  from  the  salted  ice,  remove  all  drippings,  and  unmold  on  a  folded  nap- 
kin, garnishing  around  with  strawberry  lady  bouchees  (No.  3376). 

(3443).  BOMB  WITH  LIQUOKS  (Bombe  aux  Liqueurs). 

Have  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  well  beaten  in  a  saucepan,  or  tinned  copper  basin,  with  four  gills 
of  thirty-two  degree  syrup,  four  gills  of  water  and  one  gill  of  either  aniseed,  Curacoa,  kirsch,  mara- 
schino or  mint  liquors.  Cook  the  preparation  over  a  verj  slow  fire;  stir  continuously  until  it  covers 
the  spatula  well,  then  remove  and  pass  it  .through  a  fine  sieve.  Wash  the  basin,  put  back  the  prep- 
aration and  whip  until  firm  and  light,  then  add  the  same  quantity  of  very  solid  whipped  cream 
(No.  50)  drained  well  for  two  hours  on  a  hair  sieve;  mix  together.  Imbed  the  mold  in  ice, 
fill  the  inside  with  orange  water  ice  if  for  aniseed,  strawberry  water  ice  for  Curacoa,  vanilla  for 
kirsch,  pistachio  for  maraschino,  and  lemon  water  ice  for  mint.  When  the  mold  is  overflowing 
lay  on  a  sheet  of  waxed  paper  twice  the  diameter  of  the  mold.  Put  on  the  lid,  fastening  it  down 
firmly,  and  cover  with  a  thick  bed  of  salted  ice;  freeze  for  one  hour  and  a  half  for  two  quarts. 
Take  out  the  mold,  dip  it  quickly  in  hot  water  and  invert  on  a  folded  napkin;  surround  with  a 
garnishing  either  of  macaroons,  small  biscuit  cases,  small  flat  waffles,  small  cream  cakes  or 
slices  of  Savoy  biscuit  iced  with  prunelle. 

(3444).  BOMB  STREAKED  WITH  WHITE  AND  BLAOZ  OOFPEE  (Bombe  Panache'e  au  Oafs' 

Blanc  et  Noir). 

White  Coffee. — Set  into  a  high  saucepan  three  gills  of  thirty-two  degree  syrup  and  three  and 
a  half  gills  of  water,  adding  six  ounces  of  freshly  roasted  coffee;  cover  the  saucepan  tightly  and 
leave  the  coffee  infuse  in  the  syrup  for  three  hours  in  a  bain-marie.  Place  fourteen  egg-yolks  in 
a  basin,  whip  them  gradually  with  the  coffee  infusion  and  cook  on  a  slow  fire;  strain  the 
preparation  when  done  and  beat  it  well  on  ice,  mixing  in  half  as  much  well-drained  whipped 
cream. 

Black  Coffee. — Put  fourteen  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  copper  basin,  dilute  with  three  gills  of  thirty- 
two  degree  syrup  and  three  gills  of  very  strong  coffee,  made  with  two  ounces  of  ground  Java, 
Maracaibo  and  Mocha;  finish  it  exactly  the  same  as  the  white  coffee. 

Divide  a  bomb  mold  with  a  tin  partition  lo  separate  it  perpendicularly  into  two 
compartments;  put  the  white  coffee  preparation  in  one,  remove  the  tin  and  replace  it  with 
a  waffle  of  the  same  size;  finish  filling  the  mold  with  the  black  coffee  preparation,  having  the 
mold  quj.te  full.  Cover  with  paper,  then  with  the  lid  and  pack  well  in  ice;  leave  it  to  freeze,  al- 
lowing an  hour  and  a  half  for  two  quarts;  remove  from  the  ice,  turn  it  out  on  a  folded  napkin  and 
surround  with  small  coffee  lady  bouchees  (No.  3376),  then  serve. 


986  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3445).  ICE  OKEAM  A  LA  CIALDINI  (Oreme  a  la  Oialdini), 

Put  ten  egg-yolks  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  tinned  copper  basin;  beat  up  well  and  add  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk  into  which  has  been  infused,  for  half  an  hour,  half  a  vanilla  bean  and  two 
ounces  of  ground  almonds.  Cook  the  preparation  on  a  slow  fire  until  it  covers  the  spatula,  adding 
half  a  pound  of  dissolved  chocolate,  a  piece  of  Ceylon  cinnamon  and  a  tablespoonful  of  ground 
coriander  seeds;  let  cool,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  cream;  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve, 
freeze  and  incorporate  a  quarter  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50),  half  a  pound  of  almonds  and 
half  a  pound  of  quartered  pistachios;  pack  the  cream  in  ice  and  salt,  and  it  is  ready  to  use  when 
needed. 

(3446).  ANDALUSIAN  ICE  OEEAM-WITHOUT  COOKING  (Creme  a  1'Andalouse-Sans  Ouisson). 
Pour  in  a  vessel  one  pint  of  cream,  one  pint'  of  orange  juice,  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  and 
half  an  orange  peel;  infuse  this  for  one  hour,  then  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze,  mixing 
in  a  little  orange  flower  water  added  to  a  little  syrup;  work  the  ice  well,  pack  in  cracked  ice 
and  salt,  and  use  when  needed. 


(3447).  OAEAMEL  ICE  OEEAM  (Oreme  au  Caramel). 

Put  ten  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  copper  basin  with  very  little  water,  cook  to  caramel,  then  pour  it 
on  a  marble  to  get  cold;  pound  and  return  it  to  the  basin  with  six  egg-yolks,  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla 
stick  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Cook  this  preparation  on  a  slow  fire  without  boiling,  remove  it 
from  the  range  when  it  covers  the  spatula,  and  when  cold  add  a  pint  of  cream;  strain  through  a 
sieve  and  freeze. 


(3448).  COLUMBIA  ICE  CEEAM  (Creme  a  la  Columbia). 

To  make  this  ice  cream  it  will  require  two  preparations:  One  composed  of  a  pint  of  fresh  cream, 
half  a  gill  of  maraschino  and  four  ounces  of  sugar;  strain  through  a  sieve,  freeze,  then  add  another 
half  gill  of  maraschino,  a  little  at  a  time,  one  Italian  meringue  egg-white  (No.  140),  half  an  ounce 
of  cherries  cut  in  four,  half  an  ounce  of  candied  citron  and  orange  peel  chopped  into  thin 
shreds.  The  other  preparation  is  made  as  follows:  Grind  one  pound  of  freshly  peeled  pistachios 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  diluting  with  a  quart  of  cream.  Put  into  a  vessel  twelve  egg- 
yolks  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar;  mix  well  together,  add  the  pistachios  and  a  coloring  of  spinach 
green  to  give  it  a  pale  green  hue.  Set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire  and  cook  the  cream  without  boiling, 
stirring  continuously,  and  when  it  covers  the  spatula  cool  and  put  in  three-quarters  of  a  gill  of 
orange  flower  water.  Strain  through  a  sieve,  freeze,  then  mix  in  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50), 
two  ounces  of  candied  pineapple  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares  and  two  ounces  of  angelica  cut  the 
same.  Fill  a  Madeleine  mold  (Fig.  694)  quite  full  of  the  two  preparations  divided  in  halves;  fasten 
the  lid  on  tightly,  pack  in  salted  ice  and  an  hour  after  unmold  on  a  very  cold  dish  and  bestrew 
with  finely  minced  green  pistachios. 


(3449).  CHOCOLATE  AND  COCOA  ICE  CEEAM  (Oreme  au  Chocolat  et  au  Cacao). 

Dissolve  in  a  very  slack  oven  four  ounces  of  unsweetened  chocolate  in  two  gills  of  hot  water. 
Beat  twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin  with  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  dilute  the  prepara- 
tion with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  milk,  adding  the  fourth  part  of  a  vanilla  stick.  Stir  the  cream 
on  a  moderate  fire  till  nearly  thick,  then  mix  in  the  chocolate  thoroughly  dissolved  with  three  gills 
of  hot  cream;  stir  well  for  a  few  moments,  remove  and  strain  twice  through  a  sieve  into  a  metal 
vessel;  when  cold  transfer  to  a  sorbetiere  to  freeze. 

Chocolate — Another  Way. — Two  pounds  of  fine  sweet  chocolate,  two  quarts  of  milk,  half  a 
vanilla  bean,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  twenty-four  yolks;  cook,  let  get  cold  and  then  add  two 
quarts  of  fresh  cream  and  freeze. 

With  Cocoa. — Boil  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  add  ten  ounces  of  torrefied  cocoa,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  vanilla  stick;  leave  to  infuse  for  two  hours.  Mix  five  egg-yolks,  ten  ounces  of  sugar  and  the 
infusion  in  a  tinned  basin;  cook  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  incessantly  until  the  preparation  covers 
the  spoon;  remove,  cool  partly  and  add  one  pint  of  raw  fresh  cream;  strain,  freeze  and  serve,  mix- 
ing in  a  few  chocolate  pastilles. 


ICES-  98? 

(3450).  CINNAMON,  GINGER  OR  PUMPERNICKEL  RYE  BREAD  ICE  CREAM  (Glace  Oreme  a 
la  Oanelle,  a  a  Gingembre  ou  au  Pumpernickel  Pain  de  Seigle). 

With  Cinnamon. — Infuse  one  ounce  of  cinnamon  in  a  quart  of  boiling  milk.  Place  twelve 
ounces  of  sugar  in  a  basin  with  eight  egg  yolks;  beat  and  add  the  infusion;  mix  so  that  the  sugar 
dissolves,  cook  without  boiling,  then  cool  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve;  freeze  and  mix  in  a  few 
vanilla  chocolate  pastilles,  each  half  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Ginger. — Substitute  ginger  for  the  cinnamon  and  finish  the  same. 

Pumpernickel  Rye  Bread. — Grate  half  a  pound  of  rye  bread  and  pass  it  through  a  coarse 
sieve  or  colander;  pour  into  a  vessel  and  throw  over  a  pint  of  thirty-degree  syrup.  Break  twelve 
egg-yolks  in  a  tin  basin,  add  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  mix  well  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk:  cook  this 
on  a  slow  fire  without  boiling,  remove  and  when  cold  strain  through  a  sieve,  freeze,  adding  the 
rye  bread  when  nearly  frozen  and  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50). 

(3451).  PRESH  PRUIT  ICE  OREAMS-WITHOUT  EGGS  OR  COOKING  (Oreme  de  Pruits  Frais- 

Sans  CEufs  ni  Ouisson). 

For  Strawberries,  Cherries,  Currants  and  Raspberries. — Add  three  pints  of  cream  and  a  pint 
of  milk  to  a  quart  of  strawberry,  cherry,  currant  or  raspberry  juice  and  two  pounds  of  powdered 
sugar.  Melt  the  sugar,  strain  the  whole  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze. 

Apricots,  Peaches  and  Nectarines. — To  be  made  with  one  pint  of  cream,  a  pint  of  the  pulp  of 
any  of  these  fruits,  taking  those  thoroughly  ripe;  break  the  kernels,  peel  the  nuts,  split  them  in  two 
and  infuse  in  a  gill  of  syrup  with  the  fourth  part  of  a  vanilla  bean.  To  the  cream  and  the  fruits 
add  ten  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  infusion.  Strain  through  a  very  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Pineapple. — Mix  a  pint  of  milk  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  also  a  pint  of  pineapple  juice; 
strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze.  Instead  of  using  the  juice,  thin  slices  may  be  cut  from  the 
pineapple,  laid  in  a  vessel  and  covered  with  a  boiling  syrup  of  thirty-two  degrees;  strain,  cool  off 
and  freeze. 

(3452).   NOUGAT  ICE  CREAM;  NOUGAT  NEAPOLITAN  CREAM  (Creme  Nougat;  Creme  Nougat 

a  la  Napolitaine). 

Set  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  in  a  tinned  copper  pan  with  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  place 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  continuously  and  when  melted  and  colored  to  a  fine  red  add  half  a  pound  of 
unpeeled  almonds  and  a  pinch  of  coriander  seeds;  mix  well.  Pour  this  nougat  on  a  marble  and 
as  soon  as  cold  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  moistening  slowly  with  a  pint  of  cream.  Have  ten  egg-yolks 
in  a  basin  with  fo'ir  ounces  of  sugar,  beat  well  together  and  then  add  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and 
the  crushed  nougat;  cook  on  a  slow  fire,  stirring  steadily;  remove  when  it  covers  the  spatula  and 
leave  till  cold;  into  this  mix  a  pint  of  cream;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Nougat  Neapolitan  Cream. — To  be  made  with  a  quart  of  cream,  fourteen  ounces  of  sugar, 
twelve  egg-yolks,  half  a  pound  of  peeled  almonds  roasted  to  a  golden  brown  and  half  an  ounce  of 
coriander  seeds.  Pound  the  almonds  and  corianders,  wetting  with  two  gills  of  cream;  color  with 
a  little  carmine  and  cook  without  boiling;  when  cold  add  a  pint  more  of  cream,  strain  and 
freeze. 

(3453).  PEACH  ICE  CREAM  A  LA  HERBSTER  (Oreme  aux  Peches  a  la  Herbster). 

Prepare  a  peach  ice  cream  with  two-thirds  of  cream  and  one-third  of  fruit  pulp,  adding  three 
drops  of  extract  of  almonds;  color  slightly  to  a  very  pale  pink  and  with  this  cream  when  frozen 
coat  a  pudding  mold.  Have  some  ripe  peaches  already  peeled,  stoned  and  cut  in  quarters;  mince 
them  finely  and  macerate  in  a  little  kirsch.  Mix  into  the  remainder  of  the  peach  ice  cream  half 
as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  an  equal  quantity  of  the  minced  peaches;  fill  the  mold 
quickly,  freeze  and  unmold  one  hour  later. 

(3454).  PISTACHIO  ICE  CREAM  (Oreme  aux  Pistaches). 

Pound  half  a  pound  of  freshly  peeled  pistachio  nuts  with  two  gills  of  cream  and  an 
ounce  of  candied  citron  peel  cut  up  very  finely.  Break  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin,  beat 
with  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  cook  on  a  slow  fire,  stirring  all 
the  time  with  a  spatula,  and  when  the  composition  is  cooked  add  the  pistachios;  take  from  the  fire, 
and  when  cold  put  in  a  pint  of  cream,  some  spinach  green  or  vegetal  green,  and  a  little  orange 
flower  water;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  then  freeze. 


988  THE    EPICUREAN. 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream  made  with  Almonds. — One  quart  of  milk,  six  whole  eggs,  a  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  almonds,  half  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water,  one  quart  of  cream 
and  vegetal  coloring. 

(3455).  BURNT  ALMOND  ICE  OBEAM  AND  WITH  ANGELICA  (Creme  Praline'e  et  a  1'Angflique). 

Crush  half  a  pound  of  burnt  almonds  with  two  gills  of  cream;  put  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  basin 
with  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  mix  well  together,  adding  the  burnt  almonds  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk. 
Set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  constantly  with  a  spatula  until  of  sufficient  thickness  to  cover  the 
same,  then  put  aside  to  cool  while  stirring  at  times  to  prevent  a  skin  from  forming  on  top;  add 
one  pint  of  cream,  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  freeze. 

With  Angelica. — After  the  cream  is  frozen  add  to  it  half  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50) 
and  half  a  pound  of  finely  shredded  angelica. 

(3456).  RICE  ICE  OKEAM,  PAKADISE  (Oreme  de  Biz,  Paradis). 

Wash  and  blanch  twelve  ounces  of  Carolina  rice;  drain.  Take  four  ounces  of  it  and  cook  it 
thoroughly  in  four  quarts  of  milk;  strain  through  a  sieve.  Put  thirty-two  egg- yolks  in  a  tinned 
basin,  add  two  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  sugar,  and  beat  both  together,  then  put  in  the  rice  pulp; 
set  it  on  the  fire  and  beat  steadily  until  the  preparation  covers  the  spatula;  leave  stand  till  cold; 
run  it  through  a  sieve,  and  replace  it  in  the  basin  after  it  has  been  well  cleaned;  lay  it  on  ice;  whip 
to  have  the  mixture  light,  and  stir  in  as  much  whipped  cream.  Cook  the  remainder  of  the  rice  in 
a  vanilla  syrup  at  twenty  degrees;  cool  off,  drain,  add  it  to  the  composition,  and  freeze. 

(3457).  EIOE  IOE  CKEAM  WITH  CITRON,  GARNISHED  WITH  TRUFFLES  (Oreme  de  Riz  et  au 

Ce'drat,  Garnie  de  Trufies). 

Place  eight  egg-whites  in  a  tinned  basin  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  and  four  tablespoon fuls 
of  rice  flour;  stir  well  together,  adding  a  quart  of  boiling  milk;  cook  without  boiling  on  a  slow  fire, 
remove  and  when  cold  put  in  a  pint  of  cream;  pass  through  a  sieve,  freeze  and  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  very  finely  shredded  citron  peel  and  half  a  pint  of  blanched  rice  cooked  in  syrup.  Have 
it  molded  in  a  low  Madeleine  mold,  and  garnish  around  with  imitation  truffles  prepared  as 
follows: 

Truffle  Ice  Cream. — This  cream  can  only  be  made  with  fresh  truffles.  Brush  over  half  a  pound 
of  fresh,  fragrant  truffles;  peel,  slice  and  infuse  in  a  pint  of  boiling  cream  for  thirty  minutes.  Drop 
twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin  with  ten  ounces  of  sugar;  mix  well  together  and  then  add  one 
quart  of  cream,  including  that  in  which  the  truffles  are  being  infused;  cook  the  preparation  without 
boiling,  and  add  the  truffles  after  pounding  and  passing  them  through  a  sieve.  Freeze  and  mold 
in  molds  imitating  whole  truffles  coated  with  chocolate;  pack  in  ice.  Chop  up  the  truffle  peelings 
very  finely,  mixing  in  a  few  vanilla  seeds;  dry  in  the  open  air.  pass  through  a  sieve  and  roll  the  un- 
molded  imitation  truffles  in  this  powder.  Use  these  truffles  to  decorate  the  above  ice  cream. 

(3458).  VANILLA  IOE  CREAMS-ITALIAN  MERINGUE  (Oremes  Vanille-Meringue  Italienne). 

Vanilla  (No.  1). — Boil  two  quarts  of  milk;  remove  and  add  a  large  vanilla  bean  split  in  two 
through  its  length;  cover  the  saucepan  and  leave  infuse  for  fifteen  minutes.  Beat  twelve  raw  egg- 
yolks  in  a  vessel  with  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  diluting  gradually  with  the  hot  milk;  strain 
into  a  tinned  basin;  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  continually  until  it  thickens,  without 
boiling,  and  pass  it  at  once  through  a  sieve  into  a  glazed  vessel;  stir  several  times  while  cooling. 
Pour  this  composition  into  a  spherical  freezer  packed  in  salted  ice;  turn  the  freezer  around 
and  with  the  spatula  remove  any  particles  of  cream  that  may  adhere  against  the  sides.  Fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  will  suffice  to  congeal  and  thicken  the  preparation,  then  take  it  up  with  a  spoon 
and  lay  it  in  a  small  long  freezer  buried  in  salted  ice.  Work  it  vigorously  with  the  spatula,  turn- 
ing the  box  around  on  itself.  Fine  ices  require  to  be  well  worked.  Various  vanilla  ice  creams 
may  be  prepared  the  same,  only  changing  their  proportions. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  with  Milk  and  Cream  (Wo.  2.) — Boil  a  pint  of  milk  in  which  is  infused 
half  a  vanilla  stick.  Beat  in  a  vessel  ten  egg- yo^ks  with  ten  ounces  of  sugar;  finish  the  same  a? 
in  No.  1;  when  the  preparation  is  cold  add  one  pint  of  fresh  cream,  then  freeze. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  with  Cream  (No.  3). — Have  a  quart  of  boiling  cream  with  half  a  vanilla 
bean  infused  therein.  Whip  eight  egg-yolks  with  six  ounces  of  sugar;  pour  over  the  cream,  cook 
and  finish  as  in  No.  1 


ICES.  989 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  without  Cream  or  Milk  (No.  4). — Infuse  a  vanilla  bean  in  eight  gills  of 
syrup  at  twenty  degrees.  Break  eighteen  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  tin  basin,  dilute  with  the  syrup  and 
cook  while  stirring  steadily  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  mixture  covers  the  spatula,  then  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  leave  till  cold  and  freeze.  Cook  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  "large  ball" 
(No.  171),  mix  it  slowly  with  two  stiffly  beaten  egg-whites,  leave  stand  till  cold,  then  incorporate 
this  meringue  gradually  into  the  ice  cream. 

Vanilla  Snow  Ice  Cream.  Italian  Meringue  and  Whipped  Cream  (No.  5). — Beat  five  egg- 
yolks  to  a  stiff  froth;  mix  in  slowly  one  pound  of  sugar  cooked  to  "  small  ball "  (No.  171)  and  a 
vanilla  bean  split  lengthwise  in  two;  let  cool.  Whip  a  quart  of  cream;  when  very  firm  drain  on  a 
sieve  and  mix  it  in  lightly  with  the  Italian  meringue. 

Roman  Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Syrup  and  Cream  (No.  6). — Put  sixteen  raw  egg-yolks  in  a 
tinned  basin;  pour  over  eight  gills  of  syrup  at  twenty  degrees  into  which  has  been  infused  a 
split  vanilla  bean;  beat  well  with  a  small  whip,  place  it  on  a  slow  fire  and  continue  stirring  with 
the  spatula  until  cooked  and  of  a  sufficient  thickness  to  cover  the  spatula;  remove,  cool  and  add  a 
quart  of  fresh  cream  before  freezing. 

Light  Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  Milk  and  Whipped  Cream  (No.  7). — Beat  up  a  quart  of  cream; 
drain  it  on  a  hair  sieve;  add  ten  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  to  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  basin;  beat 
and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  into  which  has  been  infused  a  vanilla  bean  split  down  in 
two;  set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire  and  stir  continuously  until  the  mixture  covers  the  spatula;  then 
remove,  strain  and  leave  till  cold.  Freeze  as  usual  and  after  the  cream  has  congealed  mix  into  it 
the  same  quantity  of  the  whipped  cream. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream  (No.  8). — Two  quarts  of  milk,  two  vanilla  sticks,  two  and  a  half  pounds 
of  sugar,  twenty-four  egg-yolks.  Cook,  cool  and  add  two  quarts  of  cream;  strain,  then  freeze. 

(3459).  VIRGIN  OREAM  WITH  ORANGE  FLOWER  WATER  AND  NOYAU,  ETO,  (Oreme  Vierge 

&  la  Pleur  d'Orange  au  Noyau,  etc.), 

Virgin  creams  are  composed  of  cream,  sugar  and  egg-whites;  they  are  cooked  the  same  as  the 
egg-yolk  creams  and  are  always  to  be  left  white,  either  finished  with  orange  flower  water,  noyau, 
maraschino,  almond  milk,  lemon  or  hazel-nuts. 

Orange  Flower  and  Noyau. — Put  twelve  egg-whites  in  a  tinned  basin,  add  one  pound  of  sugar, 
and  mix  thoroughly  with  a  quart  of  fresh  cream.  Cook  this  preparation  while  stirring,  being  careful 
it  does  not  come  to  a  boil,  then  remove  and  beat  it  occasionally  until  cold;  strain  through  a  very 
fine  sieve,  adding  half  a  gill  of  noyau  liquor  and  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water,  also  another  gill  of 
noyau  after  the  ice  has  congealed.  A  quarter  of  its  quantity  of  Italian  meringue  may  be  incor- 
porated into  this  cream  when  frozen.  With  Maraschino. — Substitute  two  gills  of  maraschino  for 
the  orange  flower  water.  With  Almond  Milk. — Six  ounces  of  almonds,  including  a  few  bitter 
ones,  pounded  with  two  gills  and  a  half  of  cream;  stir  this  in  when  the  cream  is  cooked  and  partly 
cold.  With  Lemon. — Infuse  the  peels  of  two  lemons  after  the  cream  is  cooked.  With  Hazel- 
nuts. — Half  a  pound  of  roasted,  peeled  and  crushed  hazel-nuts  mingled  with  sugar  and  added  to 
the  cream  before  cooking. 

(3460).  WHITE  OOFFEE  ICE  CREAM  (Oreme  au  daft  Blanc), 

Koast  very  slowly,  either  in  a  roaster  or  in  a  frying  pan,  half  a  pound  of  good  coffee  beans,  not 
having  them  too  dark.  Boil  a  pint  of  milk  and  pour  it  over  the  roasted  coffee  laid  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  tightly  and  keep  it  on  the  side  of  the  range  for  half  an  hour.  Put  twenty  egg-yolks  in  a 
saucepan  or  a  tinned  copper  basin  with  twelve  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla 
stick;  beat  well  together  and  dilute  with  three  pints  of  milk  and  the  infused  coffee;  stir  this  cream 
on  a  slow  fire  to  thicken  without  boiling,  and  as  soon  as  the  preparation  has  attained  the  correct 
consistency  transfer  it  to  a  well  tinned  metal  vessel  and  stir  occasionally  while  cooling;  strain  it 
twice,  the  last  time  through  an  exceedingly  fine  sieve.  Try  a  small  part  in  a  freezer  packed  in  ice 
to  discover  its  consistency,  and  if  too  thin  add  some  thirty-two  degree  syrup,  and  raw  cream  if  too 
thick.  Freeze  by  working  it  until  firm  and  smooth. 

Virgin  Coffee  Cream  i»  prepared  with  egg-whites  instead  of  yoiks.  exactly  the  same  way,  the 
proportions  being,  half  a  pound  of  coffee,  one  quart  of  milk,  sixteen  egg-whites  instead  of  the 
yolks,  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  a  quart  of  cream  and  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  stick. 


990  THE 

(3461).  ICE  OKEAM  WITH  ALMONDS,  PEESH  OR  DELED  NUTS  (Creme  d'Amandes  ou  de  Nok 

Fraiches  ou  Seches). 

If  there  be  any  almonds  or  fresh  nuts  on  hand  peel  to  remove  the  skin,  but  should  dried  ones 
be  used  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours,  lift  out  and  peel  off  their  skins.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  either  fresh  nuts  or  almonds  and  pound  them  with  a  pint  of  milk.  Mix  in  a  tinned  basiu 
ten  raw  egg-yolks  with  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  beat  well  together  and  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  very 
rich  milk  or  fresh  cream  and  a  sixth  part  of  a  vanilla  stick;  stir  on  the  fire  to  thicken  without 
boiling.  As  soon  as  done  remove  the  cream  from  the  fire,  mix  in  the  pounded  nuts,  then  pour  into 
a  glazed  bowl  to  cool  off  while  stirring  occasionally;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

For  almond  ice  cream  a  few  bitter  almonds  and  a  little  kirsch  may  be  added,  and  a  little 
maraschino  for  those  made  of  fresh  nuts. 

(3462).    IOE  OEEAM  WITH  MAEASOHINO,  PEUNELLE,  KIESOH,   TEA  OE  ALL-PLOWEE 

(Oreme  au  Marasquin,  Prunelle,  Kirsch,  Th6  ou  Mille-Fleurs), 

Place  in  a  tinned  basin  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  ten  egg-yolks,  the  peel  of  one  lemon  and  dilute 
with  three  pints  of  boiling  milk;  thicken  the  preparation  on  the  fire  while  stirring,  and  as  soon  as 
done  strain  through  a  sieve  into  a  vessel  and  stir  occasionally  till  cold;  freeze  the  same  as  explained 
in  No.  3427;  transfer  the  ice  to  a  small  long  freezer  to  finish  and  when  smooth  and  firm  incorpo- 
rate slowly  into  it  a  gill  and  a  half  of  maraschino  or  one  gill  of  kirsch  or  prunelle  or  else  a  gill  of 
infused  tea  or  highly  concentrated  all-flower,  either  of  the  two  last  named  requiring  the 
addition  of  a  little  rum.  Both  liqueurs  and  infusions  should  be  mixed  in  the  ice  cream  slowly. 

(3463).   IOE  OEEAM  WITH  EGGS  AND  BLACK  OOFFEE,  WITHOUT  EGGS,  LIGHT  WITH 
BLACK  OOFFEE  (Oreme  aux  (Eufs  et  au  OafS  Noir,  Oreme  Sans  (Eufs  Legere  au  Cafe"  Noir). 

With  Eggs  and  Black  Coffee. — Prepare  half  a  pint  of  very  strong  coffee,  using  Mocha,  Java 
and  Maracaibo,  a  pound  in  all,  ground  very  finely  and  put  into  a  filter  (Fig.  774);  moisten  with  a 
quart  of  boiling  water  and  strain  it  entirely  two  or  three  times.  Have  in  a  tinned  basin  ten  raw 
egg-yolks  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar;  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  bean 
and  the  infused  coffee.  Set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire  and  stir  until  consistent  enough  to  cover  the 
spatula;  let  get  cold,  then  add  one  pint  of  cream;  pass  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Without  Eggs,  Light  with  Black  Coffee. — Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  quart  of  good 
cold  milk;  add  half  a  pint  of  very  strong  coffee  prepared  the  same  as  the  above,  infusing  in  it  the 
fourth  part  of  a  vanilla  stick;  pass  through  a  sieve  and  freeze.  After  it  has  been  properly  worked 
mix  in  as  much  well-drained  whipped  cream  and  at  the  same  time  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar; 
stir  well  and  pack  in  ice  to  use  when  needed.  All  light  creams  should  be  served  the  same  day  as 
prepared. 

(3464).  IOE  OEEAM  WITH  PIGNONS,  BEAZILIAN  NUTS,  WALNUTS  OE  HAZEL-NUTS  (Oreme 
Glace  aux  Pignons,  aux  Noix  de  Bresil,  aux  Grosses  Noix  ou  NoisettesX 

Cook  one  pound  of  sugar  slightly  wetted  to  three  hundred  and  thirty-eight  degrees  Fahrenheit 
or  "crack"  (No.  171);  add  half  a  pound  of  pignons  or  Brazilian  nuts  or  even  common  walnuts  or 
hazel-nuts;  the  nuts  selected  must  be  first  roasted;  boil  once  or  twice  in  the  sugar,  then  pour  on  a 
marble  to  leave  till  cold,  when  pound  with  a  pint  of  cream.  Break  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin, 
dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiled  milk,  having  already  had  infused  in  it  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  stick; 
cook  without  boiling  and  when  the  preparation  covers  the  spatula  remove  it  from  the  fire,  add  to 
it  the  pounded  nuts  and  cream  and  leave  stand  till  cold;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze  as  an 
ordinary  ice  cream  (No.  3427). 

(3465).  IOE  OEEAM  WITH  EOASTED  OE  BOILED  CHESTNUTS  (Oreme  aux  Marrons  Eotis  on 

Bouillis). 

With  Roasted  Chestnuts. — Split  the  chestnuts  on  their  sides,  roast  and  skin;  put  them  with  a 
pound  of  sugar  into  a  copper  pan,  adding  three  gills  of  water;  cook  the  sugar  to  three  hundred  and 
•thirty-eight  degrees  Fahrenheit,  or  a  little  above  the  "crack;"  pour  it  on  a  marble  and  as  soon  as  cold 
pound  with  a  small  quantity  of  cream;  place  it  in  a  tinned  basin  with  fifteen  egg-yolks,  a  quart  of 
cream  and  the  quarter  of  a  vanilla  bean.  Set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire  to  cook  the  mixture  without 
boiling  and  as  soon  as  it  covers  the  spoon  remove  from  the  fire,  cool,  strain  and  freeze. 


ICES.  991 

With  Soiled  Chestnuts. — Suppress  the  hard  outer  shell  and  red  inside  skin  from  a  pound  of 
chestnuts;  boil  them  in  milk  with  a  little  vanilla,  and  when  tender  rub  through  a  sieve.  Pour  this 
puree  into  a  vessel  and  dilute  with  a  gill  of  vanilla  cream  No.  1  (No.  3458);  strain,  cool  and  freeze, 
working  it  vigorously,  and  when  smooth  and  firm  mix  in  half  as  much  very  firm  and  slightly  sweet- 
ened whipped  cream  and  half  a  gill  of  maraschino. 

(3466),  IOE  CREAM  WITHOUT  COOKING  (Glaces  sans  Ouisson). 

Vanida. — Mix  well  together  one  quart  of  good  cream,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  stick 
of  vanilla  infused  in  a  little  milk;  when  the  sugar  has  melted  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  silver 
wired  sieve,  and  freeze  either  by  machine  or  in  a  freezer,  turning  and  detaching  the  cream  with  a 
spatula  as  fast  as  it  adheres  to  the  sides;  after  it  has  solidified  finish  by  working  with  the  spatula, 
turning  the  freezer  by  a  rotary  movement  with  this  spatula.  Instead  of  vanilla  infusion  extract 
of  vanilla  may  be  used. 

Chocolate. — Boil  a  quart  and  a  half  of  cream  and  with  it  dissolve  half  a  pound  of  chocolate 
melted  in  a  slack  oven;  add  three  pounds  of  sugar,  mix  well  and  stir  in  three  quarts  of  raw  cream 
and  a  little  vanilla  extract;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Orange  Flower  Water. — Boil  one  quart  of  milk  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  dissolve 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch,  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  beating  it  with  a  whip;  color 
to  a  fine  green,  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  allow  to  cool.  Beat  one  quart  of  cream,  add  six  ounces 
of  sugar  and  a  little  orange  flower  water;  freeze  and  incorporate  it  into  the  above.  Use  this  cream 
either  for  molding  or  dressing  with  a  spoon. 

Lemon. — One  quart  of  cream  which  has  had  the  peel  of  a  lemon  infused  therein  for  one  hour; 
add  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  strain  and  freeze  the  same  as  vanilla. 

Coffee. — Prepare  one  pint  of  coffee,  composed  of  four  ounces  of  cold  Mocha  mixed  with  a  pint 
of  cream  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Light  Chocolate. — Have  two  ounces  of  chocolate  melted  in  a  pint  of  milk;  pass  through  a  sieve, 
and  cool  off.  Mix  one  quart  of  firm  whipped  cream  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  freeze 
and  add  the  chocolate  very  slowly. 

(3467).  PIOEI  DI  LATTE  A  LA  BELLINI  (Piori  di  Latte  a  la  Bellini), 

Th3  fiori  di  latte  is  a  light  preparation  composed  of  Italian  meringue  with  hot  syrup  cooked  to 
thirty-five  degrees;  add  flavorings,  also  as  much  whipped,  well-drained  cream,  sweetened  when 
drained  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  for  each  quart  of  cream.  The  meringue  and  cream  are 
to  be  well  but  lightly  combined.  This  cream  is  used  for  filling  molds  the  same  shape  as  shown  in 
Fig.  628. 

Fiori  di  Latte  a  la  Bellini. — Whip  firmly  one  pint  of  cream  and  pour  it  on  a  wire  sieve  to  drain 
for  two  hours.  Cut  in  quarter-inch  squares  eight  ounces  of  fruits,  such  as  pineapple,  cherries, 
orange  and  lemon  peel,  also  a  few  shredded  pistachios;  lay  these  in  a  vessel,  pour  maraschino  over 
and  let  macerate  for  one  hour,  then  drain.  Prepare  an  Italian  meringue  with  four  egg-whites 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  a  pint  of  hot  thirty-five  degree  syrup;  allow  to  cool,  then  mix  it  in  with 
the  whipped  cream  and  well-drained  fruits.  Pack  a  two-quart  mold  in  salted  ice;  cover  the  insides 
with  a  quarter-inch  thick  coating  of  uncooked  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451);  place  the  prepa- 
ration into  the  empty  space,  letting  the  mold  be  quite  full;  press  the  cover  on  forcibly,  imbed  and 
freeze  for  one  hour.  Unmold  by  dipping  it  into  warm  water,  the  same  as  for  all  other  ices,  and 
invert  it  on  a  folded  napkin,  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

(3468).  PIOKI  DI  LATTE  A  LA  OELANDINI  (Fiori  di  Latte  a  la  Orlandini), 

"Whip  a  pint  of  cream,  then  drain  on  a  sieve;  grate  the  peel  of  a  good  orange  on  lump  sugar, 
and  scrape  off  the  part  impregnated  with  the  peel.  Make  an  Italian  meringue  preparation  with 
five  eggs  (No.  140),  add  the  sugar  flavored  with  the  peel  to  the  sugar  used  for  making  the  me- 
ringue; leave  stand  till  cold,  then  incorporate  gently  the  whipped  cream  without  beating,  and  add 
candied  citron  peel  cut  up  finely,  and  a  little  powdered  vanilla.  Fill  a  fiori  di  latte  mold  (Fig. 
628),  with  a  coating  of  chocolate  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  pour  in  the  preparation,  and  finish  the 
same  as  a  la  Bellini  (No.  3467). 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3469).  FIOEI  DI  LATTE  WITH  VANILLA  OE  OTHER  FLAVOEINGS  (Fiori  di  Latte  a  la 

Vanille  ou  Autres  Parfums), 

Beat  up  a  pint  of  whipped  cream;  drain  on  a  sieve.  Whip  five  egg-whites  quite  stiff;  cook 
eight  ounces  of  sugar  with  half  a  vanilla  bean  to  thirty-five  degrees;  suppress  the  vanilla  and  mix 
the  sugar  with  the  egg-whites,  a  little  at  a  time,  while  stirring  the  meringue  constantly;  leave  to 
cool  on  ice.  Coat  a  fiori  di  latte  mold  with  pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454);  pack  in  ice  (have  the 
coating  only  a  quarter-inch  thick);  fill  the  center  of  this  shell  quite  full,  pressing  down  the  prepara- 
tion with  the  cover  and  imbed  in  ice,  allowing  one  hour's  freezing  for  each  quart.  Unmold  on  a 
folded  napkin  and  serve.  This  ice  may  be  prepared  and  finished  the  same  way,  only  putting  in 
the  eighth  part  of  a  vanilla  stick  instead  of  half  a  one,  and  after  the  preparation  is  quite  firm  add- 
ing either  maraschino,  kirsch,  prunelle,  Curacoa,  almond  milk,  or  concentrated  orange  flower 
water,  just  enough  to  have  the  preparation  nicely  flavored. 


(3470),  HOEI  DI  LATTE  WITH  VIOLETS,  BUENT  ALMONDS  AND  PISTACHIOS  (Fiori  di 
Latte  a  la  Fleur  de  Violette,  aux  Pralines  et  aux  Pistaches), 

Cook  two  ounces  of  violet  leaves  in  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  when  this  has  reached  "crack" 
(No.  171),  pour  it  on  a  marble  to  cool,  then  pound  and  run  it  through  a  sieve.    Whip  a  pint  of  cream 

till  very  firm,  and  drain  it  on  a  sieve.  Beat  five  egg- 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  mix  into  them  three  gills  of  hot 
thirty-five  degree  syrup,  and  cool  this  meringue  by  stand- 
ing the  basin  on  ice;  mix  together  lightly  the  whipped 
cream,  Italian  meringue  and  violet  sugar.  Pack  a 
fiori  di  latte  mold  (Fig.  628)  in  salted  ice  and  line  it 
with  a  coating  of  virgin  maraschino  ice  cream,  finishing 
as  the  Bellini  (No.  3467). 

Burnt  Almonds  and  Pistachios. — The  same  prepa- 
ration as  the  above;  after  mixing  the  whipped  cream 
with  the  Italian  meringue  add  two  ounces  of  crushed 
burnt  almonds  and  two  ounces  of  shredded  pistachios, 

FlG  ggg  also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water.     Mix 

well  together  and  with  this  fill  a  mold  coated  with  virgin 

orange  ice  cream  (No.  3459).  Fiori  di  latte  can  also  be  flavored  with  either  chocolate,  coffee, 
cinnamon,  lemon,  orange  or  Seville  orange.  Peel  the  three  latter  very  finely,  cut  the  skins  up 
very  thin  or  else  chop  them,  or  fruits  with  well-flavored  juices  may  be  substituted,  etc. 


(3471).  MOUSSE  A  LA  SEMIEAMIS  (Mousse  a  la  S6miramis). 

Lay  a  quart  of  well-whipped  cream  on  a  sieve  to  have  it  drain  well.  Pound  four  ounces  of 
freshly  shelled  sweet  almonds  with  half  an 
ounce  of  coriander  seeds  and  three  gills  of 
water;  put  this  in  a  basin  with  twelve  ounces 
of  sugar;  color  to  a  pretty  light  red  shade; 
add  slowly  and  lightly  the  whipped  cream. 
Imbed  a  high  dome-shaped  mold  (Fig.  629) 
in  ice,  and  fill  with  the  preparation,  into 
which  add  a  salpicon  of  fruits  cut  in  quarter- 
inch  squares,  soaked  in  maraschino  and 
drained.  Pack  in  ice,  freeze  for  one  hour  FlG-  689- 

for  each  quart  of  preparation,  unmold  over  a  napkin  and  surround  with  cakes  iced  with  kirsch  or  rum. 

(3472).  MOUSSE  A  LA  SIEAUDIN  (Mousse  a  la  Siraudin). 

Whip  a  quart  of  cream  till  quite  firm,  lay  It  on  a  sieve  and  when  well  drained  mix  into  it 
eight  ounces  of  icing  sugar  and  a  salpicon  of  fruits  cut  in  squares  and  marinated  in  kirsch.  Fill  a 
high  dome-shaped  mold  with  this  preparation,  pack  in  ice,  freeze  an  hour  for  each  quart,  and  un- 
mold on  a  very  cold  dish;  cover  the  top  with  Italian  cream,  decorating  it  with  fruits;  freeze  once 
more  and  serve. 


ICES.  993 

(3473).  OOPPEE  OK  CHOCOLATE  MOUSSE  (Mousse  au  Cafe"  ou  an  Chocolat), 
In  former  days  they  mingled  milk,  sugar  and  flavoring  together,  and  when  the  preparation 
was  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  it  was  lifted  up  with  a  skimmer,  drained  on  a  sieve  and  glasses  were 
filled  with  it  which  were  then  frozen  in  ice-packed  boxes.  Now  the  process  is  different.  A  mousse 
preparation  is  simply  cream  beaten  till  very  light,  sweetened  properly  and  flavored  with  natural 
flavors,  liquors  or  essences. 

With  Coffee. — Beat  a  quart  of  cream  till  very  light,  drain  it  on  a  sieve  and  when  thoroughly 
drained  put  it  into  a  tin  basin  and  mix  in  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  a  gill  of  coffee  and  some  vanilla 
essence.  Imbed  a  high-dome  mold  in  ice,  fill  it  with  the  preparation,  fasten  on  the  cover, 
imbed  it  well  and  freeze.  It  will  take  about  one  hour  for  each  quart.  Unmold  the  mousse  on  a 
napkin  and  surround  with  small  cakes. 

With  Chocolate. — Dissolve  two  ounces  of  cocoa  at  the  oven  door,  dilute  it  with  two  gills  of 
twenty-six  degree  syrup,  strain  through  a  sieve  and  mix  in  gradually  three  beaten  egg-whites,  six 
ounces  of  sugar  and  a  quart  of  well-whipped,  drained  cream.  Pack  a  tall-dome  mold  in  salted  ice, 
fill  it  with  the  preparation,  then  freeze.  A  quart  of  cream  takes  about  one  hour  to  freeze. 

(3474).  FRUIT  MOUSSES  WITH  PINEAPPLE  OK  OTHER  PRUITS  (Mousses  a  1'Ananas  ou  a 

d'Autres  Fruits). 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  apricots,  peaches,  pineapple,  etc.,  to  be  used.  A  quart  of  cream 
must  be  whipped  till  very  light;  drain  it  on  a  sieve  and  then  transfer  it  to  a  bowl;  add  a  pound  of 
pineapple  puree  and  one  pound  of  sugar,  mixing  both  together  with  a  little  vanilla  and  a  gill  of 
kirsch;  whip  the  preparation  in  a  tin  basin  on  ice  for  ten  minutes  to  have  the  cream  and  pulp 
assimilate  well  together.  Coat  the  inside  of  a  high-dome  mold  with  virgin  strawberry  cream 
(No.  3451),  fill  the  center  quite  full  with  the  preparation,  and  close  the  mold.  Pack  it  in  ice  for 
one  hour  for  each  quart,  unmold  on  a  napkin  and  surround  with  small  iced  cakes.  Strawberries, 
raspberries,  apricots,  peaches  or  other  fruits  may  be  substituted  for  the  pineapple. 

(3475).  ITALIAN  MOUSSE  (Mousse  a  ITtalienne). 

This  mousse  will  require  three  separate  preparations:  One  of  strawberry,  one  of  vanilla  and 
one  of  pistachios;  mold  it  in  a  two-quart  high-dome  mold  (Fig.  629).  Incrust  the  mold  in  salted 
ice,  cover  and  leave  till  perfectly  cold.  Make  the  three  preparations  as  follows: 

The  Strawberry. — Mix  one  pint  of  strawberry  pulp  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vanilla  sugar 
(No.  3165);  beat  on  ice  for  ten  minutes,  and  lightly  add  one  pint  of  well-whipped  and  thoroughly 
drained  cream. 

The  Vanilla. — Half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  three  ounces  of  pounded  sugar;  add  a  little 
vanilla  pounded  and  passed  through  a  silk  sieve;  mix  it  in  lightly  with  the  mousse. 

The  Pistachio. — Have  half  a  pint  of  very  light  whipped  cream,  three  ounces  of  sugar,  half  a 
gill  of  almond  milk,  a  little  orange  flower  water  and  a  small  quantity  of  spinach  green;  beat  the 
whole  lightly.  Fill  the  bottom  of  the  mold  one-third  of  its  height  and  very  even  with  the  straw- 
berry cream;  on  this  lay  exactly  in  the  center  some  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino;  freeze  this  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  put  into  it  another  layer  of  the  vanilla,  finishing  the  center  with  soaked 
macaroons;  the  mold  should  now  be  two-thirds  filled.  Freeze  for  twenty  minutes  and  finish  with 
the  pistachio  cream.  Close  the  mold  hermetically  and  pack  in  ice  for  one  hour  and  a  half. 
Unmold  on  a  folded  napkin. 

(3476).  MOUSSE  WITH  LIQUORS  (Mousse  aux  Liqueurs). 

Whip  a  quart  of  cream  until  very  firm,  drain  on  a  sieve  and  when  finished  return  it  to  a  basin 
to  mix  in  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  and  half  a  gill  of  either  Curacoa,  maraschino,  noyau,  kirsch, 
aniseed,  chartreuse,  etc.,  flavoring  but  slightly  with  vanilla.  Fill  a  dome-form  mold  with  this, 
previously  coated  with  any  kind  of  water  ice  laid  on  in  stripes. 

(3477).  MOUSSE  WITH  MACAROONS  OR  CHESTNUTS  (Mousse  aux  Macarons  ou  Marrons). 

With  Macaroons. — Beat  a  quart  of  cream  till  very  light,  drain  on  a  sieve  and  mix  into  it  ten 
ounces  ot  sugar;  coat  a  high-dome  mold  with  virgin  maraschino  cream  and  fill  it  in  three  distinct 
layers,  alternating  each  one  with  broken  macaroons  soaked  in  kirsch;  imbed  in  ice  and  freeze  one 
hour  for  each  quart;  unmold  on  a  napkin  and  surround  with  lady  bouchees  with  maraschino. 


994 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  630. 


With  Chestnuts. — "Whip  one  quart  of  cream  and  drain  on  a  sieve.  Prepare  half  a  pound  of 
chestnuts  boiled  in  milk  with  a  little  vanilla  pounded  and  pressed  through  a  sieve;  dilute  with  a 
pint  of  thirty-degree  syrup  and  half  a  gill  of  maraschino;  incorporate  the  whipped  cream  lightly 
into  this  puree;  pack  a  mousse  mold  in  ice,  line  it  with  a  coating  of  ice  cream  made  without  eggs 
and  flavored  with  prunelle,  and  fill  it  in  three  separate  layers  with  the  preparation,  the  same  as  the 
mousse  with  macaroons,  only  using  crushed  chestnuts  soaked  in  maraschino;  freeze  the  molds; 
unmold  and  dress  on  a  napkin;  decorate  around  with  cream  cakes  garnished  with  apricot  marma- 
lade (No.  3675). 

(3478).  PAKFAIT  WITH  NOUGAT  AND  WITH  ALMONDS  (Parfait  an  Nougat  et  aux  Amandes), 
Boil  four  gills  of  syrup  to  twenty  degrees  with  half  a  vanilla  bean;  pour  this  slowly  over  ten 
egg-yolks  beaten  in  a  vessel,  after  removing  the  vanilla;  whip  the  preparation 
well  over  the  fire  until  it  is  as  thick  as  a  cream,  but  avoid  having  it  boil, 
then  remove  and  stir  continuously  until  frothy  and  cold;  now  beat  it  again, 
on  ice  to  give  consistency,  and  incorporate  two  quarts  of  well-drained  whipped 
cream,  also  half  a  pound  of  almond  nougat  (No.  3621)  crushed  finely  with  a 
rolling-pin.  Place  the  preparation  in  a  three-quart  bomb  or  parfait  mold  (Fig. 
630)  lined  with  paper,  incrust  in  salted  ice,  and  put  on  the  lid,  cementing  the 
joints  with  butter;  cover  this  with  a  thick  layer  of  salted  ice,  then  freeze  for 
two  hours  and  a  half;  lastly  remove  the  mold,  wash  it  quickly  in  cold  water, 
wipe  and  unmold  the  parfait  on  a  folded  napkin;  remove  the  paper  and 
serve  surrounded  by  small  cakes. 

With  Almonds. — Have  the  same  preparation  as  for  the  parfait  with 
nougat.  Pound  half  a  pound  of  new,  freshly  shelled  almonds  with  a  little 
water,  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165)  and  noyau;  when  pounded  to  a  pulp  use  them  instead  of  the  nougat 
and  finish  exactly  the  same  as  for  the  above.  If  the  two  ices  are  to  be  served  in  the  same  mold  have 
a  waffle  partition  the  same  size  as  the  center  of  the  mold;  fill  one  side  of  it  with  parfait  with 
nougat,  and  the  other  side  with  parfait  with  almonds. 

(3479),  EXCELLENT  WITH  OOPPEE  AND  PAKFAIT  WITH  OOFFEE  (Excellent  au  Oaf<§  et 

Parfait  au  Cafe"). 

Excellent  with  Coffee. — Boil  three  pints  of  cream,  mix  in  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  good 
freshly  roasted  coffee,  not  having  it  too  dark;  leave  infuse  for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  to  keep 
the  saucepan  covered.  Place  sixteen  egg-yolks  in  a  tin- 
ned basin,  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  stir  together  and 
cook  on  a  slow  fire,  beating  continuously  until  such  a 
consistency  is  obtained  that  it  will  cover  the  spatula; 
remove  the  basin  from  the  fire,  leave  till  cold,  then  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve;  freeze  in  a  spherical  freezer  and 
when  the  composition  begins  to  congeal  add  half  a  gill  of 
thirty-two  degree  vanilla  syrup  (No.  3165);  when  almost 
hard  put  in  another  gill  of  the  same  syrup  and  as  much 
whipped  and  slightly  sweetened  cream  as  there  is  prep- 
aration. Fill  some  boxes,  the  same  as  illustrated  in 
Fig.  631,  and  lay  them  on  top  of  soclos  made  of  colored 
water  (No.  3434).  Place  a  spun  sugar  ornament  on  the 
summit. 

Parfait  with  Coffee. — Infuse  for  half  an  hour  six 
ounces  of  freshly  roasted  coffee  and  the  fourth  part  of 
a  vanilla  ber.n  in  one  pint  of  boiling  cream;  into  a  basin 
lay  eight  egg-yolks  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
diluting  with  the  infusion;  set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire, 
stir  steadily  until  the  mixture  covers  the  spatula  and 
leave  till  cold;  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Clean  the 
basin,  return  the  preparation  to  it  and  whip  on  i?e  until 
quite  light,  adding  as  much  whipped  cream.  Fill  a 
bomb-shaped  mold  (Fig.  630)  with  this,  lay  a  paper  over,  then  the  cover  and  imbed  in  salted  ice; 
freeze  for  one  hour  for  one  quart,  two  quarts  requiring  an  hour  and  a  half;  the  larger  the  mold  the 
longer  it  will  take. 


FIG.  631. 


ICES.  995 

(3480),  PLOMBIEEE  A  LA  MONTESQUIEU  (Plombiere  a  la  Montesquieu), 

Cook  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  plenty  of  water  with  the  juice  of  four  lemons;  drain  and  place  it 

in  a  vessel  to  cover  with  a  hot  thirty-two  degree  syrup,  draining  this  off  an  hour  later.   Put  sixteen 

egg-yolks  in  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  beat  both  together  and  mix  in  a  pint  of  boiling 

milk;  cook  this,  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  until  the  preparation  covers  the  spoon,  then  take  it 


FIG.  632. 

from  the  fire,  let  cool  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  cream;  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze; 
stir  in  the  rice  and  a  quart  of  well-drained  whipped  cream.  Cut  some  preserved  pineapple  and 
melon  in  three-eighths  inch  squares  and  macerate  in  kirsch  for  two  hours.  Coat  a  plombiere  mold 
with  uncooked  lemon  ice  cream;  fill  the  center  with  the  rice  cream,  put  on  the  cover  and  freeze 
for  one  hour  for  each  quart.  Unmold  on  a  napkin  and  garnish  around  with  small  lady's  bouche"es 
(No.  3376)  iced  with  coffee  icing;  on  top  and  in  the  middle  place  the  macerated  fruits  and  send  to 
the  table  with  a  sauce-boatful  of  prunelle  sauce,  made  with  vanilla  and  whipped  cream,  to  which 
some  prunelle  has  been  added. 

(3481),  PLOMBIERE  A  LA  RICHMOND  (Plombiere  a  la  Richmond). 

Make  a  Genoese  biscuit  preparation  as  herewith  described:  Mix  in  a  basin  one  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  twelve  whole  eggs  and  a  grain  of  salt;  beat  this  over  a  slow  fire,  and  remove  to  incorporate 
slowly  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  one  pound  of  warm  melted  butter,  also  the  well-chopped  peel 
of  an  orange.  Take  a  round  mold  seven  inches  in  diameter  by  one  and  a  half  in  depth;  butter  and 
flour  the  interior,  then  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  the  preparation,  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven;  spread 
the  remainder  of  the  paste  on  a  sheet  of  paper  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  bake  this 
also  in  a  hot  oven.  After  removing  the  thin  biscuit  from  the  fire  cut  it  into  half  rounds  two  inches 
in  diameter  with  a  channeled  pastry  cutter  (Fig.  16);  leave  them  to  cool,  coat  over  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675),  then  cover  with  a  layer  of  orange  sugar  icing  (No.  102).  When  the  round 
Genoese  is  cooked  and  cold,  apricot  it  over,  and  in  the  center,  on  the  apricot,  place  a  round  piece  of 
strong  paper  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  ice  the  whole  with  rum  icing  (No.  102).  Lay  it 
on  a  grate  and  make  an  incision  around  the  biscuit  at  half  an  inch  from  the  edge;  remove 
the  icing  and  paper  from  the  center;  scoop  out  the  cake;  set  it  on  a  dish,  and  put  it  on 
ice  until  ready  to  serve.  Imbed  a  plombiere  mold  (Fig.  632)  on  ice;  fill  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  a  coating  of  maraschino  ice  cream  (No.  3462),  and  fill  the  inside  with  a  prep- 
aration made  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pounded  roasted  hazel-nuts,  adding  slowly  a  quart 
of  cream  to  them;  put  this  into  a  vessel  with  an  orange  peel,  infuse  for  one  hour,  and  strain 
forcibly  through  a  fine  sieve;  add  a  gill  of  vanilla  syrup  (No.  3165)  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  freeze, 
then  put  in  as  much  whipped  cream.  Mold  it  in  layers,  alternating  each  one  with  hazel-nut 
macaroons  (No.  3386).  Then  nnmold  the  plombiere  into  the  cavity  of  the  cake,  surround  the  base 
of  the  plombiere  with  the  above  half-rounds  of  Genoese,  and  serve  separately  a  sauce  made  with 
well-drained  whipped  cream  flavored  with  kirsch,  to  which  has  been  added  candied  apricots  cut 
in  small  squares  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  previously  macerated  in  kirsch. 

(3482).  PLOMBIERE  A  LA  ROOHAMBEAU  (Plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau). 
Pound  half  a  pound  ot  peeled  almonds,  but  a  few  at  a  time,  soaked  for  several  hours  in  cold 
water,  adding  a  little  water  at  frequent  intervals,  then  transfer  from  the  mortar  to  a  glazed  vessel. 
Prepare  an  English  cream  (No.  42)  with  a  quart  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  eight  to  ten  egg- 


996  THE    EPICUREAN. 

yolks  and  a  stick  of  vanilla  split  in  two;  as  this  becomes  thick  pour  it  over  the  almonds  and  stir 
occasionally  while  cooling,  then  strain  forcibly  through  a  tammy  and  leave  till  thoroughly  cold. 
Pour  this  cream  into  a  deep  freezer  imbedded  in  salted  ice,  work  it  vigorously  until  smooth  and 
firm — this  will  take  forty  minutes — then  incorporate  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  kirsch  mixed 
with  a  little  orange  syrup.  Five  to  six  minutes  later  stir  in  a  pint  of  sweetened  whipped 
cream,  after  adding  to  it  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  almond  preparation  to  prevent  it  from 
granulating;  work  again  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Freeze  a  plombiere  mold;  coat  it  with  nougat 
ice-cream  (No.  3452)  and  at  the  bottom  range  some  lady  fingers  soaked  in  prunelle;  cover  these 
with  the  above  ice  and  on  top  of  this  place  some  preserved  greengages,  macerated  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  in  kirsch  and  thick  syrup,  then  drained.  After  the  mold  is  full  close  the  lid  forcibly, 
pack  it  in  salted  ice  and  freeze  for  one  hour  for  each  quart.  Unmold  the  plombiere  on  a 
folded  napkin  and  surround  the  base  with  small  iced  Genoese  cakes;  fill  the  hollow  center  of  the 
plombiere  with  some  of  the  greengages  infused  in  kirsch  and  serve  separately,  in  a  sauce  tureen, 
whipped  cream  with  a  little  kirsch  added,  mixing  it  well. 

(3483).  PLOMBIERE  D'ALENQON  (Plombiere  d'Alengon), 

Fill  a  plombiere  mold  with  Chantilly  cream  (whipped  cream  made  with  a  quart  of  cream 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  both  firmly  whipped  together);  place  on  the 
cover  forcibly  and  pack  it  in  ice,  leaving  it  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for  each  quart;  remove  the 
cover  and  take  out  the  contents,  leaving  only  a  thin  three-eighths  of  an  inch  coating,  then  fill  up  the 
inside  with  alternate  layers  of  No.  1  vanilla  ice-cream  (No.  3458),  having  half  as  much  whipped 
cream  added  to  it,  intermingling  it  with  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino  or  kirsch;  fill  it  quite 
full,  put  back  the  cover  neatly  and  pack  in  ice,  freezing  one  hour  and  a  half  for  two  quarts;  un- 
mold  and  garnish  the  hollow  on  top  of  the  plombiere  with  preserved  peaches  (No.  3682)  and 
cherries,  the  former  cut  into  pieces  and  softened  in  a  light  syrup  with  maraschino;  place  here  and 
there  a  few  lozenges  of  angelica;  garnish  around  with  various  small  cakes.  Sauce  of  whipped 
cream  flavored  with  noyau  should  be  served  apart. 

(3484).  PLOMBIEEE,  HAVANESE  STYLE  (Plombiere  a  la  Havanaise). 

Put  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin  with  eight  ounces  of  sugar;  beat  both  well  together 
with  a  whip  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  cook  without  boiling  and  when  the  preparation 
covers  the  spoon  remove  from  the  fire  and  allow  to  cool.  Now  add  one  pint  of  cream  and 
the  pulp  of  twelve  very  ripe  bananas.  Pass  all  of  this  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze.  Then 
incorporate  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream,  and  a  gill  and  a  half  of  maraschino.  Coat  a 
plombiere  mold  with  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446);  fill  it  quite  full  with  the  banana  cream, 
fasten  the  cover  on  tight,  pack  in  ice  and  freeze  one  hour  for  each  quart;  unmold  and  fill  the  hol- 
low center  in  the  mold  with  slices  of  raw  pineapple,  quartered,  pared  to  the  pulp,  then  macerated 
in  maraschino.  The  sauce  required  for  this  is  composed  of  apricots  and  maraschino. 

(3485).  PLOMBIERE  WITH  CHERRIES  (Plombiere  aux  Cerises). 

Suppress  the  stalks  and  pips  from  one  pound  of  cherries;  pound  and  press  through  a  sieve; 
into  this  pulp  mix  five  gills  of  cold  thirty-degree  syrup,  a  few  bits  of  lemon  peel  and  some  lemon 
juice;  pass  the  preparation  once  more,  then  stir  in  an  infusion  made  with  a  part  of  the  crushed 
cherry  pips  and  some  light  syrup.  Bring  it  to  twenty-two  degree  syrup,  then  freeze  the  whole,  the 
same  as  an  ordinary  ice.  After  it  becomes  firm  and  smooth  incorporate  a  few  spoonfuls  of  kirsch; 
ten  minutes  later  transfer  three  or  four  spoonfuls  to  a  vessel  and  mix  in  with  it  six  or  seven  gills  of 
well-whipped  rich  cream,  properly  drained  and  sweetened;  stir  this  at  once  into  the  principal  prep- 
aration, but  only  a  little  at  a  time,  to  have  the  mixture  more  perfect.  Beat  the  whole  well  for  a 
few  moments  longer  so  that  it  attains  body.  Coat  a  plombiere  mold  with  kirsch  ice  cream  (No. 
3462),  fill  it  full  with  the  above,  close  properly  and  freeze.  Unmold  on  a  napkin  and  decorate  the 
summit  of  the  cupola  with  candied  cherries  that  have  been  softened  in  light  syrup  and  macerated 
in  kirsch  for  one  hour  previously,  and  then  well  drained. 

(3486).  PLOMBIERE  WITH  CHESTNUTS  (Plombiere  aux  Marrons). 

Pack  a  plombiere  mold  in  salted  ice;  line  the  bottom  and  sides  with  a  thin  layer  of  vanilla  ice 
cream  (No.  3458)  and  the  center  with  chestnut  cream  (No.  3465),  having  the  mold  perfectly  full; 
fasten  on  the  cover  forcibly,  then  freeze,  allowing  one  hour  for  each  quart  of  the  plombiere; 
unmold  and  range  it  on  a  folded  napkin;  fill  the  hollow  in  the  mold  with  chestnuts  in  juice 
flavored  with  maraschino.  Stick  between  the  chestnuts  lozenge  shaped  pieces  of  angelica. 


ICES. 


997 


(3487).  BANANA  PUDDING  (Ponding  aux  Bananes), 

The  composition  for  this  is  one  pint  of  banana  pulp,  one  pint  of  thirty-five  degree  syrup  and 
a  gill  of  lemon  juice;  bring  this  to  twenty-two  degrees  test,  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  freeze, 
incorporating  two  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140).  Coat  a  two-quart  pudding  mold 


FIG.  633. 

with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458);  on  the  bottom  place  a  layer  of  the  banana  ice,  on  this 
some  slices  of  banana  macerated  for  one  hour  in  maraschino,  and  bestrewn  with  finely  powdered 
sugar,  also  some  biscuits  soaked  in  Curacoa,  then  another  layer  of  banana  ice,  more  sliced  bananas 
and  more  biscuits,  proceeding  until  the  mold  is  thoroughly  filled;  freeze  in  salted  ice  for  one  hour 
and  a  half.  Invert  the  pudding  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  at  the  same  time  a  sauce  composed 
of  whipped  cream,  vanilla  ice  cream  and  kirsch,  the  whole  well  mixed. 

(3488).  BISCUIT  PUDDING  (Ponding  aux  Biscuits). 

Crumble  one  pound  of  very  dry  Savoy  biscuit  (No.  3231).  Put  twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  basin 
with  six  ounces  of  sugar;  beat,  add  the  crumbled  biscuit  and  a  quart  of  boiling  milk;  cook  this  on 
a  slow  fire  without  boiling,  and  when  the  preparation  covers  the  spoon  remove  the  basin  from  the 
fire,  allow  to  cool,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and  freeze.  Pack  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  in 
salted  ice;  coat  the  inside  with  pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454)  and  fill  the  center  in  alternate  layers 
of  the  above  ice,  slices  of  biscuit  soaked  in  maraschino,  and  a  salpicon  of  fruits;  continue  until  the 
mold  is  full,  finishing  the  top  with  ice  cream,  then  freeze  for  one  hour  for  each  quart.  Unmold 
on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce  made  of  vanilla  ice  cream  beaten  in  a  metal 
bowl,  mixing  in  some  rum  and  whipped  cream. 

(3489).  OAVOUR  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Oavonr). 

Pick,  wash  and  cook  in  an  abundance  of  water  half  a  pound  of  Piedmontese  rice,  leaving  it 
boil  for  twenty  minutes;  then  drain  it  off  and  place  it  in  a  vessel  to  macerate  for  two  hours  in  a 
hot  twenty-two  degree  vanilla  syrup;  afterward  drain.  Break  ten  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  copper 
basin;  add  eight  ounces  of  sugar  and  mix  well,  stirring  in  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  cook  this  prep- 
aration on  a  slow  fire  without  boiling  and  without  ceasing  to  stir  until  it  covers  the  spatula,  then 
remove;  allow  to  cool  and  add  to  it  one  pint  of  cream  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  almonds  pounded 
with  two  gills  of  water;  strain  this  forcibly  through  a  sieve  and  freeze.  Coat  a  two-quart  pudding 
mold  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458),  fill  up  the  inside  in  distinct  layers  of  the  prepared  ice  cream, 
well-drained  rice,  and  preserved  pineapple  cut  in  three-eighths  of  an  inch  squares.  Freeze 
for  one  hour  and  a  half  in  salted  ice  for  each  quart  of  pudding,  then  turn  it  out  on  a  napkin 
and  serve.  Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  vanilla  ice  cream  mingled  with  rum  and  whipped 
cream. 

(3490).  CONSTANCE  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Constance). 

Pour  a  quart  of  cream  into  a  vessel  to  stir  with  ten  ounces  of  vanilla  sugar  (No.  3165);  strain 
through  a  sieve  and  freeze.  Prepare  a  salpicon  of  fruits,  such  as  apricots,  cherries,  plums  and 
pineapple,  also  have  some  macaroons  stuffed  with  apricot  and  macerated  in  maraschino.  Imbed  a 
two-quart  pudding  mold  (Fig.  633)  in  salted  ice;  coat  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  uncooked  strawberry 
ice  cream  (No.  3451)  and  fill  it  in  layers  composed  of  the  above  vanilla  ice  cream,  the  fruits,  more 
vanilla  ice  cream  and  then  the  macaroons,  continuing  until  pei-fectly  full,  having  the  last  layer  of 
icecream;  force  on  the  cover  and  freeze  for  one  hour  and  a  half.  Invert  and  dress  on  a  napkin, 
serving  separately  a  sauce  made  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  finished  with  maraschino. 


998  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3491),  DIPLOMAT  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Diplomate). 

Prepare  a  salpicon  of  candied  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares,  selecting  pineapple,  cherries, 
almonds,  apricots,  orange  peel  and  Smyrna  raisins;  pour  over  some  hot  twenty-degree  syrup 
flavored  with  rum,  and  let  all  macerate  for  half  an  hour.  Put  in  a  tinned  copper  basin,  ten  egg- 
yolks  and  six  ounces  of  sugar;  beat  well  together  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  cook  with- 
out allowing  it  to  come  to  a  boil,  then  cool  off  and  add  one  pint  of  cream;  strain  through  a  sieve, 
freeze,  flavor  with  maraschino,  and  mix  in  half  as  much  very  firm  and  well-drained  whipped  cream. 
Cut  up  some  slices  of  Savoy  biscuit  (No.  3231).  Take  a  two-quart  pudding  mold,  incrust  it  in  ice, 
line  it  with  a  layer  of  uncooked  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446),  and  on  the  bottom  have  the 
sliced  biscuit  previously  soaked  in  rum;  scatter  a  part  of  the  fruit  salpicon  over,  then  place  a 
layer  of  the  ice  cream,  and  continue  in  this  way  to  fill  the  mold,  finishing  the  top  with  the  ice 
cream;  set  the  cover  on  tight,  pack  it  well  in  salted  ice,  and  freeze  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  then 
unmold  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  flavored  with 
rum,  mixing  into  it  half  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50). 

(3492),  DUOHESS  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Duchesse), 

Cook  six  very  ripe  peeled  pears  in  a  twelve-degree  syrup;  drain  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve; 
put  this  pulp  in  a  vessel  with  two  gills  of  syrup  at  thirty-five  degrees,  and  one  gill  of  lemon  juice; 
strain  the  whole,  bring  it  to  twenty-two  degrees  and  freeze.  Cut  some  candied  pineapple  and  can- 
died cherries  (half  a  pound  of  each)  in  quarter-inch  pieces,  boil  them  in  a  little  thirty- degree  syrup, 
leave  to  cool  and  drain.  To  the  ice  add  two  egg-whites  of  Italian  meringue,  and  the  well-drained 
fruits.  Imbed  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  in  ice;  coat  the  inside  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  layer 
of  maraschino  ice  cream  (No.  3462),  and  put  in  the  pear  ice;  place  the  cover  on,  pack  it  well  in 
salted  ice,  freeze,  allowing  one  hour  for  each  quart,  then  unmold  and  dress  on  a  napkin.  Accom- 
pany this  pudding  by  a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Put  one  Italian  meringue  egg-white  in  a  metal 
bowl;  stir  it  well  with  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  a  few  drops  of  extract  of  pears  and  a  little 
champagne. 

(3493).  FLEURY  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Fleury). 

Mix  in  a  vessel  one  quart  of  apricot  pulp,  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  almond  milk  (No.  4) 
and  half  a  gill  of  kirsch;  bring  it  to  twenty-two  degrees  of  the  saccharometer,  then  strain  through  a 
sieve  and  freeze;  mix  in  half  as  much  whipped  cream.  Have  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  packed  in 
ice;  coat  the  inside  with  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451),  and  fill  it  in  layers  composed  of  the 
above  prepared  cream;  between  each  layer  arrange  amacedoineof  fresh  fruits  macerated  in  kirsch 
and  some  biscuits  soaked  in  maraschino;  let  the  last  layer  be  ice  cream;  pack  and  freeze  for  one 
hour  and  a  half;  unmold  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce  made  of  strawberry  ice  cream,  mixing 
into  it  a  little  kirsch  and  whipped  cream. 

(3494).  IMPERIAL  RICE  PUDDING  (Pouding  de  Riz  a  I'lmperiale), 

Coat  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  with  almond  ice  cream  (No.  3461).  Have  some  vanilla  ice 
cream  (No.  3458)  and  mix  into  it  half  as  much  well-drained  whipped  cream.  In  the  bottom  of  the 
mold  inside  the  coating  range  a  layer  of  this  vanilla  cream  and  on  it  one  of  paradise  rice  (No.  3456); 
place  over  this  some  biscuits  and  macaroons  steeped  in  maraschino,  and  cover  with  more  vanilla 
cream,  then  more  rice  and  a  salpicon  of  fruits,  finishing  with  vanilla  cream,  so  that  the  mold  be 
entirely  full  and  the  cover  packed  on  tight.  Imbed  and  freeze  one  hour  and  a  half;  unmold  and 
dress  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  dissolved  in 
maraschino,  stirring  in  some  thoroughly  drained  whipped  cream  (No.  50). 

(3495).  NESSELRODE  PUDDING  WITH  CANDIED   CHESTNUTS  (Pouding  a  la  Nesselrode  aux 

Marrons  Confits). 

Have  ready  a  chestnut  ice  cream  (No.  3465);  mix  into  it  a  quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue 
(No.  140),  and  flavor  with  maraschino.  Coat  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  with  vanilla  ice  cream 
(No.  3458);  at  the  bottom  lay  abed  of  the  chestnut  ice  cream,  placing  a  few  broken  candied  chest- 
nuts here  and  there,  then  another  layer  of  chestnut  cream,  and  continue  until  the  mold  is  per- 
fectly full,  finishing  with  the  cream;  force  on  the  cover,  and  freeze  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Un- 
mold and  dress  on  a  napkin.  Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458), 
into  which  mix  whipped  cream  and  maraschino. 


ICES. 


999 


(3496).  PLUM  PUDDING  (Plum  Ponding), 

Melt  half  a  pound  of  chocolate  in  a  quart  of  water,  add  three-quarters  of 
little  vanilla,  and  one  quart  of  cold  syrup  at  thirty  degrees;  strain  through 
a  sieve  and  freeze;  now  add  two  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140), 
some  seeded  Malaga  and  Smyrna  raisins,  currants,  orange,  lemon  and 
citron  peel  cut  in  three-sixteenth  of  an  inch  squares,  all  of  these  pre- 
viously boiled  in  a  little  twenty-two  degree  syrup,  then  drained  and 
macerated  for  one  hour  in  kirsch;  drain  and  mix  them  well  into  the  ice. 
Coat  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  with  chocolate  ice  cream  (No.  3449);  fill 
it  with  the  preparation,  freeze  as  usual  and  unmold  an  hour  and  a  half 
later,  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin.  Make  the  sauce  of  vanilla  (No.  3458), 
whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  rum;  pour  a  third  of  the  sauce  on  the  pud- 
ding and  serve  the  other  two-thirds  apart. 


of  sugar,  a 


FIG.  634. 


(3497).  KOMANOFF  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Komanoff). 

Make  a  chestnut  cream  the  same  as  described  for  chestnut  ice  cream  (No.  3465),  having  the 
chestnuts  cooked  with  sugar.  After  this  is  frozen  incorporate  half  the  same  quantity  of 
whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Have  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  (Fig.  633)  packed  in  salted  ice,  coat  the 
interior  with  uncooked  orange  ice  cream  and  fill  the  center  in  separate  layers;  first  the  chestnut 
ice  cream,  then  lady  fingers  soaked  in  kiimmel  and  walnuts  well  drained  from  their  juice  and  cut 
lengthwise  in  four;  have  the  top  layer  of  the  ice  cream;  cover  the  mold.  Freeze  one  hour  and  a 
half,  and  turn  it  out  on  a  napkin.  Serve  a  separate  sauce  of  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  flavored 
with  kirsch,  beating  it  well  with  whipped  cream. 

(3498.)  SEKANO  PUDDING  (Ponding  a  la  Serano). 

Boil  one  quart  of  raspberry  pulp,  one  pound  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees,  one  gill  of  lemon 
juice  and  vanilla,  bringing  the  whole  to  a  twenty-two  degree  heat,  then  strain  through  a  sieve  and 
freeze,  incorporating  into  the  ice  one  Italian  meringue  egg-white  (No.  140).  Have  a  pudding  mold 
well  packed  in  salted  ice;  coat  the  inside  with  pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454).  Fill  up  the  mold  in 


FIG.  635. 

alternate  layers,  having  a  light  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  on  the  bottom,  then  some  biscuits 
intercalated  with  fruits,  and  over  the  prepared  raspberry  ice;  continue  to  fill  in  the  same  order: 
raspberry  ice,  biscuits  and  fruits  cut  in  small  squares.  Have  the  mold  well  filled,  fasten  the  cover 
on  tight,  pack  in  ice  and  freeze  for  one  hour  for  each  quart;  invert  it  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a 
sauce-boat  of  strawberry  sauce  mingled  with  maraschino  and  whipped  cream. 


(3499).  SICILIAN  PUDDING  (Ponding  k  la  Sicilienne). 

Cut  six  ounces  of  slightly  roasted  almonds  lengthwise  in  four,  and  six  ounces  of  citron 
and  four  ounces  of  orange  peel  cut  the  same  size.  Coat  a  two-quart  pudding  mold  with  pistachio 
ice  cream  (No.  3454);  mix  the  almonds  and  fruits  with  chocolate  ice  cream  (No.  3449),  adding  a  little 
cinnamon  and  one  Italian  meringue  egg-white  (No.  140);  fill  with  this,  laying  in  the  center  a  little 
orange  jelly  (No.  3668).  Pack  in  salted  ice,  unmolding  on  a  napkin  an  hour  and  a  half  later. 
The  sauce  should  be  made  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50),  with  chocolate  ice  cream  and  brandy  stirred 
in;  serve  it  apart. 


1000 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3500).  WADDING/TON  PUDDING  (Pouding  a  la  Vaddington), 

Have  half  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  apricot  paste  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  orange  peel;  macerate  these  in  two  gills  of  kirsch.  Have  also  some  hazel-nut  macca- 
roons  (No.  3386)  garnished  with  orange  jelly  (No.  3668)  and  some  nougat  ice  cream  (No.  3452), 
Coat  a  two  and  a  half  quart  pudding  mold  with  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451);  on  the  bottom 
lay  a  bed  of  the  nougat  ice  cream,  over  this  the  fruits  macerated  in  maraschino  and  the  march- 
pane, then  more  nougat  cream  and  more  fruits  and  marchpane,  and  nougat  ice  cream  to  finish. 
Close  the  mold,  freeze  and  unmold  two  hours  later.  Prepare  a  whipped  cream  sauce,  adding 
kirsch,  maraschino  and  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458). 


(3501).  PUNCH  AND  SHERBET  (Punch  et  Sorbet). 
Punch  or  sherbet  is  served  between  the  last  entree  and  the  roast.     Either  one  should  be 

placed  on  the  bill  of  fare  without  a  separate  heading,  merely  reading:  Sherbet  or  punch,  a  la . 

The  difference  between  sherbet  and  punch  is  that  the  former  is  a  water  ice  into  which  some 
liquor  is  mixed,  while  punch  is  an  ice  either  of  water  or  cream  mingled  with  a  quarter  as  much 
Italian  meringue  and  liquors;  for  this  see  Italian  meringue  (No.  140).  Punches  and  sherbets  are 
served  either  in  medium  glasses,  the  size  usually  used  for  Bordeaux,  without  any  foot,  but  provided 
with  a  handle,  or  else  in  fancy  cups,  either  of  gum  paste  or  of  water  tinted  to  various 
colors,  or  in  many  kinds  made  of  cardboard  of  a  basket  or  other  shape,  or  in  the  peels  of  fresh 
fruits.  Italian  meringue  is  mixed  both  in  white  or  colored  ices.  The  size 
for  sherbets  and  punches  is  eight  or  ten  from  each  quart. 

(3502).  BEATRICE  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Beatrice). 

For  twelve  persons  take  about  one  quart  of  lemon  water  ice  (No. 
3604)  and  add  to  it  two  drops  of  extract  of  citron.  To  two  well-beaten 
egg-whites  put  one  gill  of  boiling  syrup  at  thirty-five  degrees;  lay  aside 
to  cool  and  when  very  cold  incorporate  in  the  ice  a  little  good  rum,  a 
quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  good  champagne  and  four  soupspoonfuls  of 

Italian  meringue  (No.  140);  fill  with  this  some  swans  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  having  the 

top  parts  hollow. 

(3503).  BOUQUETIERE  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Bouquetiere). 

For  ten  sherbets  have  one  pint  of  orange  water  ice  (No.  3605)  and  as  much  strawberry  water 
ice  (No.  3607);  mix  both  together  in  a  freezer  with  a  quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140); 
add  one  gill  of  maraschino  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne.  Procure  molds  the  shape 
of  Fig.  637  and  Fig.  639.  The  latter  mold  is  furnished  with  a  socket  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
in  diameter  in  its  center,  a  little  higher  than  the  mold.  Incrust  them  well  in  salted  ice  and  fill  Fig. 


FIG.  636. 


FIG.  637.  Fio.  638.  FIG.  639. 

637  with  water  whitened  with  milk,  and  Fig.  639  with  reddened  water;  after  the  ice  has  formed  OD 
the  sides  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  empty  out  the  surplus  water,  dip  the  mold  in  hot 
water  and  unmold  quickly.  Place  the  contents  of  the  mold  (Fig.  637)  in  small  blue  cardboard 
boxes  and  fill  them  up  with  the  sherbet.  Unmold  Fig.  639,  lay  on  top  of  Fig.  637  so  that  the 
rounded  part  be  uppermost,  fasten  a  small  bunch  of  natural  flowers  in  the  center  and  then  stand 
them  in  silver-plated  rings  and  these  on  silver  saucers. 


ICES. 


1001 


(No.  3624). 
As  soon  as 


(3504).  CHAMPAGNE  PUNCH  (Punch  an  Champagne). 

Procure  some  imitation  silver  champagne  pails  made  of  cardboard  or  gum  paste 
Have  tin  molds  to  fit  into  these  and  incrust  them  in  ice,  filling  to  the  top  with  water, 
this  becomes  frozen  sufficiently  thick  to  cover  the  sides  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
empty  out  the  liquid  and  unmold,  lay  these  ice  pails  inside  the  cardboard  ones 
and  imitate  the  bottle  in  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  having  the  surrounding  ice  of 
white  rock  candy;  these  should  be  laid  on  the  cover.     Pour  into  a  small  freezer 
one  quart  of  pineapple  water  ice  (No.  3606),  half  a  gill  of  fine  brandy,  half  a  gill 
of  kirsch  and  two  gills  of  champagne;  mix  the  whole  and  add  as  much  Italian 
meringue  (No.  140).      When  frozen  fill  the  pails,  lay  on  the  covers  and  serve. 

(3505).  COFFEE  PUNCH;  GRANITE  PUNCH  WITH  COFFEE  (Punch  an  Cafe"; 

Punch  Granit  an  Cafe"). 

For  ten  persons  put  one  quart  of  vanilla  ice  cream  into  a  freezer  and  mix 
in  with  it  three  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (made  with  three  beaten  egg-whites 
and  two  gills  of  forty-degree  syrup  properly  liquefied  with  coffee  made  with  water).  To  make 
this  coffee  requires  one  quart  of  water  to  six  ounces  of  coffee;  add  it  to  the  cream  when  nearly 
firm  so  that  it  does  not  grain  the  punch,  then  put  in  a  little  brandy  or  kirsch. 

Another  way  to  make  granite  punch  with  coffee  is  to  have  four  quarts  of  black  coffee,  one 
quart  of  cream,  ten  ounces  of  sugar,  four  gills  of  brandy  and  one  quart  of  whipped  cream  or 
Italian  meringue.  Freeze  as  the  above. 


FIG.  640. 


(3506).  DOLGOROUSKI  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Dolgoronski). 

For  ten  persons  allow  one  quart  of  peach  water  ice  (No. 

3602);  beat  it  up  well  and  incorporate  in  a  third  as  much 

Italian  meringue  (No.  140),    then  mix  in  slowly  a  gill  and 

a  half  of  kirsch,  and  two  gills  of  Cliquot  champagne;  with 

this  preparation  fill  some  natural  water  glasses,  having  the 

bottom  of  the  glass  red  and  the  upper  part  white,  made  and 

frozen  the  same  as  American  sherbet. 


(3507).  ELIZABETH  PUNCH  (Punch 
Elisabeth). 


FIG.  641. 


Fio.  648. 


FIG.  643. 


Have  in  a  freezer  one  quart  of  strawberry  (No.  3451)  or  currant  ice 
cream  (No.  3451),  moisten  it  with  kirsch,  brandy  and  champagne,  two  gills 
and  a  half  in  all;  whip  in  a  quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140) 
and  serve  this  punch  in  imitation  flower  pots  (Fig.  643),  made  in  three  parts, 
the  saucer,  the  pot  and  a  top.  Stick  two  wires  into  the  top  to  fasten  on  a 
small  bunch  of  natural  flowers  or  else  a  single  one. 

(3508).  FAVOEITE  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Favorite). 

Arrange  in  a  freezer  one  quart  of  strawberry  water  ice  (No.  3607); 
work  it  well  and  mix  in  two  gills  of  rum,  one  gill  of  brandy 


and  a  quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140).  Prepare  and  pack  some 
goblet-shaped  molds  in  salted  ice,  filling  them  three-quarters  full  of  water  slightly 
whitened  with  milk;  when  frozen  to  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  empty  out, 
then  fill  the  mold  entirely  with  water  tinted  red;  when  frozen  to  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness  empty  and  range  them  in  small  fancy  blue  boxes;  place  in  a 
freezing  box  and  when  ready  to  serve  fill  with  the  strawberry  punch. 

(3509).  IMPERIAL  PUNCH  (Punch  k  Hmpenale), 


FIG.  644. 


Put  three  gills  of  pineapple  juice  in  a  vessel  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  the  peel  of  one 
orange,  also  half  an  ounce  of  tea  infused  in  a  pint  of  water,  three  gills  of  rum,  two  gills  of  brandv, 


1002 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


one  gill  of  kirsch  and  one  gill  of  maraschino;  bring  this  composition  to  sixteen  degrees,  then 
freeze.  When  frozen  to  an  ice  add  half  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No. 
140),  fill  the  inside  of  the  crowns  and  serve.  These  crowns  are  made  of 
gum  paste,  (No.  3624)  having  cardboard  boxes  fitted  into  the  center. 


(3510).  COKDIAL  PUNCH-ICED  (Punch  Glac6  aux  Liqueurs). 
Pour  eight  gills  of  cold  twenty-eight  degree  syrup  into  a  glazed  vessel; 

mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  bean,  a  few  bits  of  lemon  peel,  a  gill  of  lemon  juice,  the  peel  of 
half  an  oi'ange  and  the  juice  of  four  oranges;  let  infuse  for  half  an  hour  then  strain;  boil  till  it 
attains  twenty  degrees;  rectify  if  necessary.  Freeze  the  preparation  in  a  freezer  packed  in 
salted  ice  after  the  usual  manner,  and  when  smooth  and  consistent  incorporate  four  Italian 
meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140);  beat  again  slowly  and  add  two  gills  of  liqueur  or  cordial,  such  as 
rum,  kirsch,  prunelle,  maraschino,  kimmel,  etc.  Let  become  consistent  once  more  and  serve. 


(3511).  MILK  PUNCH-ICED  (Punch  Glac<3  au  Lait), 

This  punch  is  not  to  be  served  the  same  as  a  liqueur  punch,  for  it  must  be 
thoroughly  frozen.  Make  a  preparation  with  two  quarts  of  milk  and  four  ounces 
of  sugar,  strain  and  freeze.  When  three-quarters  frozen  mix  in  as  much  whipped 
cream,  then  add  slowly  one  gill  of  rum  and  one  gill  of  brandy.  Use  this  prepara- 
tion to  fill  some  glasses,  smooth  the  tops  neatly  and  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over; 
lay  them  in  a  lightly  imbedded  freezing  box.  This  milk  punch  can  be  trans- 
ported quite  a  distance,  for  the  ice  will  keep  a  length  of  time  by 
glasses  in  covered  cardboard  boxes  that  close  hermetically. 


FIG.  646. 

putting  the 


(3512).  MONTMOKENCY  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Montmorency). 
Place  two  quarts  of  cherry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  in  a  freezer;  mix  in 
a  gill  of  kirsch,  half  a  gill  of  noyau,  half  a  pint  of  good  Sauterne  and  a 
quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140).     With  this  punch  fill  some  cups 
made  of  natural  ice  slightly  reddened. 


(3513).  NENUPHAK  PUNCH-LILIES  (Punch  Nenuphar), 

Place  in  a  vessel  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  the  peel  of  half  an  orange,  half  an  ounce  of  coriander 
seeds  and  a  small  piece  of  Ceylon  cinnamon,  also  four  drops  of  extract  of 
citron;  set  it  in  a  heater  or  expose  to  the  sun  for  four  hours  in  a  hermeti- 
cally closed  earthen  vessel;  afterward  pass  it  through  a  filter  and  add  a  quart 
of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees.  Mix  the  whole  well  and  bring  the  compo- 
sition to  sixteen  degrees,  coloring  to"  a  light  pink;  strain  through  a  very  fine 
sieve  and  freeze.  When  the  ice  begins  to  congeal  pour  in  three  gills  of 
kirsch  and  maraschino  and  half  its  volume  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140). 
Use  this  ice  for  filling  some  gum  paste  Nenuphar  lilies  and  serve  at  once. 

(3514).  PAEGNY  PUNCH  (Punch  Pargny). 
Soak  two  gelatine  leaves  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  drain  and  dis-  FIG.  648. 

solve  in  a  quart  of  hot  milk,  afterward  adding  one  quart  of  cream,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  half  a 
pint  of  good  sherry  and  two  gills  of  rum.  Whip  the  whole  well  together  and  strain  through  a 
sieve;  put  it  into  a  freezer  and  freeze  with  half  as  much  salt  as  is  required  for  ordinary  ices.  Add 
some  Italian  meringue  (No.  140).  This  punch  should  be  mellow  and  not  hard;  dress  in  fancy 
glass  cups. 

(3515).  EOMAN  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Eomaine). 

This  is  made  with  one  quart  of  lemon  water  ice  (No.  3604)  well  worked  in  a  freezer  packed  in 
ice;  add  to  it  a  little  citron  peel  or  extract;  the  cjmposition  should  be  put  in  a  rather  large  freezer 
to  allow  two  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140)  to  be  incorporated;  it  should  first  be  added 
slowly  in  small  quantities,  working  it  well  with  the  spatula  to  have  it  acquire  much  lightness,  then 
add  two  gills  of  rum  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne;  work  it  well  and  detach  from  the 
iides  of  the  freezer.  The  rum  should  be  poured  in  gradually,  as  well  as  any  kind  of  spirits  in 


ICES. 


1003 


different  punches;  continue  until  sufficient  be  added  to  suit  the  taste.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
designate  the  exact  quantity,  that  depending  entirely  on  the  quality  of  the  ingredients  composing 
the  punch;  generally  the  liquors  are  only  put  in  just  when  serving.  The  punch  should  be  suffi- 
ciently liquid  to  be  drank  without  using  spoons  and  as  soon  as  served.  Serve  the  punch  in  upright 
glasses  provided  with  handles.  This  is  sufficient  for  twelve  persons. 

(3516),  SIBERIAN  PUNOH-LALLA  EOOKH  (Punch  a  la  Sibenenne-Lalla  Rookh). 
Siberian  or  Lalla  Rookh  punch  is  merely  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  worked  in  a  freezer, 
mixing  in  with  it  a  quarter  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  and  about  two  gills  of  good  rum 
for  each  quart  of  the  ice  cream;   with  this  fill  plain  punch  glasses  with 
handles,  or  cups. 


(3517).  SUNFLOWER  PUNCH  (Punch  Tournesol), 
Put  two  quarts  of  pineapple  water  ice  (No.  3606)  in  a  freezer;  work 
it  well,  adding  half  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140),  two  gills  of 
kirsch  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  champagne;  fill  some  sunflowers 

(Fig.  649)  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  or  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618) 
with  the  mixture  and  serve  without  delay. 

(3518).  STANLEY  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Stanley). 
If  for  twelve  guests  have  one  quart  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  de- 
grees, the  juice  of  four  lemons,  a  quart  of  boiling  water  having  a 
pound  of  freshly  roasted  coffee  infused  therein  and  half  a  vanilla 
bean;  pour  the  infusion  into  the  preparation,  let  steep  together  for 
two  hours,  keeping  it  well  closed.  Bring  the  composition  to  twenty- 
two  degrees  and  strain  through  a  sieve;  freeze  while  incorporating 
two  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140),  one  gill  of  kirsch 
and  a  gill  of  maraschino.  Arrange  the  punch  inside  of  a  goblet 
beside  which  is  a  heron  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  surrounded 
by  grasses. 


FIG.  650. 


(3519).  TOSCA  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Tosca). 

Put  in  a  freezer  packed  in  ice  one  pint  of  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446)  and 
as  much  almond  ice  cream  (No.  3461);  work  well,  adding  two  gills  of  noyau  and  an 
eighth  of  a  bottle  of  champagne,  also  a  third  as  much  Italian  meringue  (No.  140). 
Color  a  delicate  pink  and  with  the  preparation  fill  some  goblets  made  of  colorless 
natural  water  frozen  to  a  sufficient  thickness,  then  unmold  and  set  in  thick  blue 

cardboard  boxes  the  same  shape   as  the  glasses. 
The  quantity  here  given  is  sufficient  to  serve  twelve  persons. 


FIG.  652. 


FIG.  651. 


(3520).  TREMIERE  PUNCH  (Punch  a  la  Tremiere). 
Mix  in  a  freezer  one  quart  of  pineapple  water  ice  (No.  3606), 
one  pint  of  orange  ice  (No.  3605)  and  one  pint  of  strawberry  ice 
(No.  3607).     When  thoroughly  mixed  incorporate  a  third  of  its 
volume  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140),  three  gills  of  kirsch  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  champagne; 
with  this  preparation  fill  some  Tremiere  roses  (Fig.  652)  made  of  gum  paste  (No. 
3624),  or  else  they  can  be  made  of  pulled  sugar,  and  served  at  once. 

(3521),  AMERICAN  SHERBET  (Sorbet  a  rAmencaine). 

Prepare  some  glasses  of  ice,  using  molds  as  shown  herewith  (Fig.  653), 
they  being  made  in  two  pieces  which,  when  unmolded,  are  joined  together.  Fill 
them  just  when  ready  to  serve  with  this  preparation.  Have  ready  a  water  ice  of 
one  quart  of  water,  one  pound  of  sugar,  the  peel  of  two  oranges  and  of  one  lemon, 
the  juice  of  eight  oranges  and  of  six  lemons;  boil  to  attain  sixteen  degrees,  pass 
through  a  fine  sieve,  then  freeze,  incorporating  into  the  ice  when  about  serving  a 
quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  American  champagne  mixed  with  twc  gills  of  kirsch  and  one  of  prunelle. 


FIG.  653. 


1004 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3522).  ANDA.LUSIAN  SHERBET  (Sorbet  Andalouse), 

Trim  some  fine  orange  peel  to  represent  baskets  (Fig.  656);  scallop  their  borders  with  the 
punch  shown  in  Fig.  654;  decorate  with  narrow  ribbons  and  freeze  for  one  hour  in  a  freezing  box. 
Squeeze  out  the  juice  of  four  oranges  and  two  lemons;  place  this  in  a  vessel,  add  the  peel  of  half  an 


FIG.  655. 


FIG.  050. 


orange,  two  drops  of  extract  of  bitter  orange  and  two  drops  of  the  extract  of  lemon;  bring  the 
composition  to  twenty-two  degrees;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze.  When  frozen  mix  in 
one  gill  of  Curacoa  and  as  much  kirsch;  fill  the  orange  peel  baskets  and  serve  at  once. 


(3523).  OALIPOENIAN  SHEKBET  (Sorbet  Oalifornienne). 

In  a  vessel  place  four  gills  of  syrup  at  thirty-five  degrees,  one  gill  of  brandy,  one  gill  of  mar- 
aschino, half  a  bottleful  of  California  champagne,  the  peel  of 
one  and  the  juice  of  three  oranges,  four  gills  of  pineapple  juice 
and  the  juice  of  twelve  lemons.  Keduce  until  it  registers 
sixteen  degrees  with  the  saccharometer;  strain  through  a  fine 
wire  sieve  and  freeze.  Imbed  in  ice  some  molds  as  shown  in 
Fig.  657;  decorate  with  sprigs  of  fresh  mint  and  fill  with 
plain,  colorless  water;  when  the  ice  is  sufficiently  frozen  unmold 
and  keep  them  on  ice  until  required  for  serving  the 


FIG.  657. 


FIG.  658 


sherbet,  filling  and  serving  them  without  any  delay. 

(3524).  MEPHISTO  SHERBET  (Sorbet  a  la  Mephisto). 
Infuse  for  three  hours  in  one  quart  of  boiling  syrup  ten  ounces  of  tor- 
refied fresh  cocoa  and  half  a  stick  of  vanilla;  add  the  juice  of  four 
lemons  and 'one  bottleful  of  good  white  wine;  bring  to  twenty-two  de- 
grees, then  freeze;  incorporate,  just  when  ready  to  serve,  two  gills  of 
brandy  and  a  gill  of  rum;  with  this  preparation  fill  a  dice  box  and  serve  at 
once.  The  box  and  dice  should  be  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  or  pasteboard. 

(3525).  PARADISE  SHERBET  (Sorbet  Paradis). 


FIG.  659. 


Prepare  an  orange  water  ice  (No.  3605),  into  which  incorporate  a 
little  carmine,  kirsch  and  orange  flower  water.    This  is  dressed  in  a  nest  with  a  small  bird  perched 

on  its  edge.  The  bird,  the  interior  and  the  bottom  should  be 
made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624);  imitate  the  outside  of  the  nest  with 
spun  sugar  and  the  grass  with  fillets  of  angelica.  Serve  at  once. 


(3526).  PARIAIT  AMOUR  SHERBET  (Sorbet  Parfait  Amour). 

Pour  into  a  freezer  one  pint  of  raspberry  water  ice  (No.  3607), 
one  pint  of  orange  water  ice  (No.  3605)  and  a  pint  of  cherry  water 
FIG.  GOO.  ice  (No.  3602);  mix  thoroughly  and  add  to  them   half  a  gill  ot" 

Curacoa,  half  a  gill  of  maraschino,  one  gill  of  kirsch  or  one  gill 

parfait  amour  cordial  and  half  a  pint  of  champagne  just  when  ready  to  serve.     Dress  in  tulips 
made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  or  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618). 


ICES. 


1005 


(3527).  PAQUEKETTE  SHERBET  (Sorbet  Paquerette). 
A  light  apricot  ice  cream  (No.  3451),  having  one  quart  for  ten 
persons;  put  it  into  an  imbedded  freezer  and  incorporate  one  gill  of 
Madeira  and  one  gill  of  brandy  and  noyau.  With  this  sherbet  fill  the 
inside  case  found  in  the  handled  basket,  having  this  trimmed  with  a 
ribbon  how.  A  small  bunch  of  flowers  may  be  fastened  to  it  also.  When 
prepared  to  serve  put  the  case  filled  with  the  sherbet  inside  the  basket. 


(3528),  REBECCA  SHERBET  (Sorbet 

Rebecca). 

Place    in    a  freezer  one  quart  of 

orange  water  ice  (No.  3605)  and  one  of  lemon  water  ice  (No.  3604); 
work  both  together  thoroughly,  mixing  in  a  gill  of  kirsch  and 
half  a  bottleful  of  champagne.  This  sherbet  is  served  in 
small  cases  representing  baskets,  and  decorated  with  a  rich  ribbon 
bow,  or  in  a  little  well  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624). 


FIG.  661. 


FIG.  662. 


(3529),  VENETIAN  SHERBET  (Sorbet  a  la  Venitienne). 

Place  in  a  vessel  one  pound  of  grated  pineapple  with 
a  quart  of  twenty-degree  boiling  hot  syrup,  also  half  a 
vanilla  stick.  Two  hours  later  strain  forcibly  through  a  sieve 
and  add  one  gill  of  kirsch,  one  gill  of  brandy  and  a  quarter 
of  a  bottleful  of  champagne.  Serve  in  small  gondolas  (Fig.  663),  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624). 


FIG.  663. 


(3530).  YOUNG  AMERICA  SHERBET   (Sorbet  Jeune  Amenque). 

Imitate  a  boat  in  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  standing  it  on  a  thin  board;  fasten  an  American  flag 

at  the  stern  and  fill  the  empty  boat  with  the  following 
sherbet:  Place  in  a  vessel  one  quart  of  thirty-two  degree 
syrup,  one  quart  of  syrup  of  pears  and  currants  and 
one  gill  of  lemon  juice,  the  juice  of  four  oranges,  half 
an  orange  peel  and  a  little  vanilla.  Infuse  for  one  hour, 
then  bring  it  to  thirty-two  degrees;  pass  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  freeze.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve  incor- 


FIG.  664. 


porate  one  gill  of  kirsch,  one  gill  of  rum  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  champagne. 


(3531).  SABAYON  A  LA  CANETTI  (Sabayon  a  la  Canetti). 

Break  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  deep  saucepan  with  five  ounces  of  sugar;  whip  the  yolks  and 
sugar  together  with'  a  wooden  beater  or  small  wire  whisk,  rotating  either  one  or  the  other 
between  both  hands;  add  slowly  four  gills  of  good  white  wine,  then  a  stick  of  vanilla,  the 
peel  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  little  cinnamon.  Place  the  saucepan  either  on  a  very  slow  fire  or  in 
a  bain-marie  until  the  preparation  becomes  quite  frothy  and  firm;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  lay  it 
on  ice  and  continue  the  beating  process.  When  very  cold  suppress  the  peel  and  vanilla  and  stir  in 
one  quart  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  half  a  gill  of  kirsch.  Serve  this  preparation  in  high 
glasses,  paper  cases,  or  else  silver  souffle  casseroles. 

(3532).  SABAYON  A  LA  DENARI  (Sabayon  a  la  DenariX 

Prepare  a  sabayon  with  Lunel  wine,  putting  twelve  egg-yolks  in  a  deep  saucepan  with  five 
ounces  of  sugar;  beat  well  with  the  whip  or  whisk  and  slowly  add  four  gills  of  Lunel  wine  and  a 
stick  of  vanilla.  Beat  the  preparation  in  a  bain-marie  or  else  over  a  slow  fire  until  thoroughly 
frothy  and  firm,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  lay  it  on  ice,  continuing  to  beat  until  quite  firm; 
mix  in  the  same  volume  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  with  this  preparation  fill  up  some  glasses 
in  alternate  layers  of  the  sabayon  and  lady  fingers  soaked  in  maraschino,  adding  a  few  raspberries 
placed  here  and  there.  Cover  the  top  with  whipped  cream  and  freeze  in  a  freezing  box,  serving 
when  well  frozen. 


1006 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3533),  ALCAZAE  SOUFFLES-ICED  (Souffles  Glaces  a  1'Alcazar). 

Fill  some  paper  cases,  with  the  following:  Pour  some  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  into  a  metal 
vessel;  lay  it  on  salted  ice,  stirring  well  with  a  spoon,  mixing  in  as  much  whipped  cream,  finishing 
with  macaroons  and  broken  chestnuts  infused  in  maraschino;  with  this 
preparation  imitate  the  shape  of  some  souffles  just  taken  from  the  oven. 
Have  some  pulverized  macaroons  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve  and  bestrew 
the  souffles  with  this  powder;  cut  a  gash  on  the  side,  then  cover  with 
fine  powdered  sugar.  Color  quickly  in  a  brisk  oven  and  then  put  into 
the  freezing  box;  pack  it  on  ice  to  freeze  for  one  hour;  serve  on  folded 
napkins. 

665-  (3534).  FAVAET  SOUFFLES  (Souffles  Glacis  a  la  Favart). 

Have  ready  a  burnt  almond  ice  cream  preparation  (No.  3455) ;  when  frozen  mix  into  it  as 
much  whipped  cream  and  with  this  partly  fill  some  crimped  paper  cases;  on  top  lay  slices  of  hazel- 
nut  biscuit  (No.  3241)  soaked  in  maraschino,  and  strawberries  in  their  juice  macerated  in  kirsch; 
cover  and  shape  to  resemble  baked  souffles;  besprinkle  with  powdered  macaroons  and  icing  sugar; 
color  briskly  in  a  quick  oven,  then  stand  them  on  the  shelves  pf  a  tin  freezing  box;  freeze  for  one 
hour  and  serve. 

(3535).  PALMYEA  SOUFFLE  (Souffle"  Ghee"  Palmyre). 

Cook  in  a  slack  oven  a  few  good,  whole,  unpeeled  russet  apples  placed  in  an  earthen  dish; 
when  done,  remove  all  the  pulp  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Put  four  gills  of  this  into  a  vessel 
with  half  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  flavored  with  vanilla,  and  beat  on  ice  to  give  it  body,  then  mix  in  a 
pint  of  whipped  cream  flavored  with  maraschino.  Dress  this  preparation  in  separate  layers  in  a 
souffle  dish  (Fig.  182),  alternating  each  one  with  a  layer  of  almond  biscuit  soaked  in  maraschino  and 
well-drained  brandied  figs;  shape  it  like  a  dome,  then  freeze  it  for  forty  minutes  in  salted  ice  in  a 
freezing  box.  After  taking  it  out  decorate  the  dome  with  sweetened  and  vanilla-flavored  whipped 
cream,  also  candied  fruits;  return  it  to  the  freezing  box  and  serve  half  an  hour  later. 

(3536).  SPOffGADE  A  LA  MEDIOTS  (Spongade  a  la  Me"dicis). 

Cut  up  finely  the  peel  of  a  citron  and  an  orange;  have  also  some  pistachios  and  cherries  divided 
in  four,  and  pour  kirsch  over.  Take  four 
gills  of  cold  syrup  at  thirty-five  degrees,  the 
juice  of  five  oranges,  the  peel  of  two,  the 
same  of  one  lemon,  one  gill  of  vanilla  syrup 
and  two  gills  of  egg-whites.  Infuse  together 
for  half  an  hour,  and  bring  the  preparation 
to  twenty-two  degrees;  pass  it  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Freeze  the  composition  by  working  it 
with  a  spatula  to  incorporate  as  much  air  as 
possible  so  as  to  obtain  a  very  light  ice.  and 
then  mix  in  the  above  fruits.  Coat  a  two- 
quart  spongade  mold  with  raspberry  ice  cream 
(No.  3451)  or  water  ice;  fill  with  the  prepara- 
tion, press  down  the  cover  and  freeze  for  one 
hour;  unmold,  dress  on  a  folded  napkin  and 
surround  the  spongade  with  small  cakes.  FJG 

(3537).  OEEAM  SPONGADE  A  LA  PAEEPA  (Spongade  Creine  a  la  Pa^pa). 

Cream  spongades  are  made  by  putting  into  a  vessel  four  gills  of  fresh  cream  and  almond  milk 
made  with  five  ounces  of  sweet  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds;  also  eight  egg-whites,  mixing  in 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  beat  well  together,  strain  and  freeze  in  medium-sized  freezers; 
one  to  congeal  the  mixture  and  the  other  to  work  it.  When  the  composition  is  in  the  first  freezer, 
turn  the  latter  quickly  with  the  right  hand,  and  as  soon  as  the  preparation  adheres  to  the  sides 
remove  it  to  the  second  or  smaller  one,  then  work  to  give  it  body,  and  to  incorporate  plenty  of  air 
into  the  ice.  Then  add  a  salpicon  of  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares.  Mold  the  ice  in  aspongade- 
shaped  mold  (Fig.  666),  coated  inside  with  pistachio  cream. 


ICES. 


1007 


Fia.  668. 


(3538).  ALASKA,  PLOEIDA  (Alaska,  Florida). 

Prepare  a  very  fine  vanilla-flavored  Savoy  biscuit  paste  (No.  3231).  Butter  some  plain  molds  two 
and  three-quarters  inches  in  diameter  hy  one  and  a  half  inches  in  depth;  dip  them  in  fecula  or  flour, 
and  fill  two-thirds  full  with  the  paste.  Cook,  turn 
them  out  and  make  an  incision  all  around  the  bottom; 
hollow  out  the  cakes,  and  mask  the  empty  space  with 
apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675).  Have  some  ice  cream, 
molds  shaped  as  shown  in  Fig.  667,  fill  them  half  with 
uncooked  banana  ice  cream  (No.  3541),  and  half  with 
uncooked  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3466);  freeze,  un- 
mold  and  lay  them  in  the  hollow  of  the  prepared 
biscuits;  keep  in  a  freezing  box  or  cave.  Prepare  also 
a  meringue  with  twelve  egg-whites  and  one  pound  of 
sugar.  A  few  moments  before  serving  place  each 
biscuit  with  its  ice  on  a  small  lace  paper,  and  cover 

one  after  the  other  with  the  meringue  pushed  through  a  pocket  furnished  with  a  channeled 
socket,  beginning  at  the  bottom  and  diminishing  the  thickness  until  the  top  is  reached;  color  this 
meringue  for  two  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  a  light  golden  brown  remove  and  serve  at  once. 

(3539).  ALEXANDEIA  (Alexandria). 

Have  in  a  tin  basin  ten  raw  egg-yolks  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  beat  both  well  together, 

diluting  with  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  adding  the  peel  of  one 
orange.  Set  this  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  and  cook  until  the  prep- 
aration covers  the  spatula,  then  leave  to  cool  off.  Add  the 
pulp  of  four  bananas,  one  pint  of  cream  and  two  gills  of  vanilla 
syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees;  strain  through  a  sieve,  freeze  and 
mix  into  this  ice  one  gill  of  Curacoa  and  half  as  much  whipped 
cream.  With  this  frozen  preparation  fill  some  crescent-shaped 
molds,  pack  in  ice  and  freeze  for  half  an  hour.  Unmold  and 

decorate  each  side  with  lozenges  of  angelica  and  candied  cherries,  and  stand  them  on  whipped 

cream  having  had  crushed  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino  mingled  in. 


FIG.  609. 


(3540).  ASPAEAGUS  (Asperges). 

Cook  one  pound  of  asparagus  tops  in  plenty  of  unsalted  water;  drain  and  lay  them  in  a  tinned 
basin  with  ten  egg-yolks  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;   mix  thoroughly,  incorporating  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk;  cook  this  preparation  without  allowing  to  boil, 
and  put  aside  to  cool,  then  add  a  pint  of  cream;  color  a  third 
part  to  a  pale  green;  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  freeze  the 
parts  separately.     With  this  ice  fill  some  asparagus-shaped 
molds,  the  stalks  or  third  part  to  be  of  the  green  ice,  and  the 
remainder  white.     Freeze  the  molds  for  half  an  hour,  un- 
mold,  tie  in  bunches  of  three  with  a  pink  ribbon,  and  dress 
on  napkins.     Serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  vanilla  ice 

cream  (No.  3458),  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  maraschino.  Asparagus  can  also  be  imitated  by 
filling  the  molds  with  pistachio  (No.  3454)  and  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458),  and  serving  the  same 
as  the  above. 


(3541).  BANANAS  IN  SUKPEISE  (Bananes  en  Surprise). 

The  proportions  for  eight  large  bananas  is  one  quart  of  cream,  the  pulp  of  four  bananas  and 

one  pound  of  sugar;  press  through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 
Pare  and  cleanse  the  peels  nicely;  freeze  them  in  a  freezer 
for  one  hour  and  fill  with  the  above  cream,  putting 
inside  of  them  a  salpicon  of  candied  fruits  macerated  in 
maraschino.  Put  the  bananas  into  a  freezing  box 
well  packed  in  ice  and  leave  to  harden  for  several  hours. 
Dress  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve. 


FIG.  en. 


1008 


THE    EPICUREAN 


(3542).  BLIDAH  (Blidah). 

Fill  a  lozenge-shaped  mold  with  cherry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  or  currant  water  ice  (No.  3602); 
unmold  and  put  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  Montelimar  mold  packed  in  ice;  finish  filling  the  lozenged 
part  of  the  mold  with  mandarin  water  ice  and  the  rest  with  vanilla  ice 
cream  (No.  3458),  into  which  mix  the  pulp  of  two  oranges  macerated  for  an 
hour  in  maraschino.  Fill  the  molds  well,  force  on  the  cover,  pack  and 
freeze  for  one  hour;  unmold  and  cutting  in  half-inch  slices  dress  each 
slice  on  lace  paper  and  serve.  The  length  of  the  mold  is  eight  inches  long 
inside,  the  height  is  three  and  three-quarters  inches  and  the  width  at  its 
base  is  three  and  a  quarter  inches.  The  lozenge  is  the  same  length  as  the 
larger  mold  and  its  height  is  two  inches. 


FIG.  678. 


(3543),  OAKAMEL  BOUOHEES  (Bouchees  au  Caramel), 


Lay  on  a  sheet  of  paper  some  half -spherical  rounds  of  lady  finger  paste  (No.  3377),  each  two 
and  a  half  inches  in  diameter;  when  cooked  empty  out  the  centers.  Put 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  strawberry  juice  in  a  vessel  with  a  pint  of 
thirty-two  degree  syrup  and  a  little  vanilla;  strain  through  a  fine 
sieve,  freeze  and  then  mix  in  two  Italian  meringue  egg-whites  (No.  140) 
and  half  a  pound  of  preserved  pineapple  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch 
squares  and  macerated  in  kirsch.  With  this  ice  fill  the  interior  of  the  FIG.  e~3. 

biscuits,  range  one  on  top  of  the  other,   fastening  them  well   together; 

lay  them  in  a  freezing  box  for  one  hour  to  congeal  the  ice  and  then  dip  them  in  sugar  cooked  to 
"crack"  (No.  171).  Dress  these  balls  on  rounds  of  waffles  three  inches  in  diameter;  serve  them 
plain  or  scatter  over  finely  shredded  green  pistachios. 


(3544).  CAULIFLOWER  WITH  MARCHIONESS  EIOE  (Ohoux-fleurs  au  Biz  Marquise), 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice;  cook  it  in  milk  for  half  an  hour,  pass  through  a  fine  sieve  and  mix 
with  it  double  as  much  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No.  3464).  Fill  a  cauliflower-form  mold  with  three 
pints  of  this  preparation,  keeping  a  cavity  in  the  center,  and  fill  this  with  the  well-cooked  boiled 
rice  marinated  in  vanilla  syrup  and  having  added  to  it  a  salpicon  of  fresh  fruits,  macaroons  and 
lady  fingers  steeped  in  maraschino.  Close  the  mold  after  it  is  quite  full,  pack  in  salted  ice  and 
freeze  for  one  hour,  then  unmold  on  a  folded  napkin  and  serve  with  a  separate  sauce-boatful  of 
sauce  prepared  with  vanilla  ice  (No.  3458)  and  maraschino  mixed  to- 
gether, to  which  add  an  equal  volume  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50). 


(3545).  CEYLON  WITH  COFFEE  (Ceylan  au  OafiS). 
Put  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin;    whip  in  three  gills  of  very 
strong  coffee  and  bring  the  preparation  to  twenty-two  degrees  with  a 
syrup  gauge;  set  the  basin  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  and  remove  when  it  covers 
the  spoon,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve;    return  it  to  the  cleaned 
basin,  beat  again  on  ice  till  it  attains  a  light  consistency.     Coat  a  mold 
(Fig.  674)  with  uncooked  cinnamon  ice  cream  (No.  3450),  fill  the  center 
with  the  coffee  composition,   close  forcibly,   pack  and  freeze  for  one 
hour.      Unmold    and    dress  on   a  folded  napkin  and  surround  with 
lady  bouchees  (No.  3376). 


FIG.  674. 


vanilla 


(3546).  OHAELOTTE  CORDAY  (Charlotte  Corday). 

Obtain  some  round  crimped  paper  cases;  cover  the  bottoms  and  sides 
with  uncooked  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446)  and  fill  the  centers  with 
biscuit  glace  preparation  with  vanilla  (No.  3438),  adding  a  little  maraschino 

ITI  :  _      fV?K 

to  it;  also  put  in  some  candied  orange  peel  cut  in  exceedingly  thin  fillets; 

powder  the  tops  with  pulverized  macaroons  and  cover  this  with  Andalusian  ice  cream  and  candied 

fruits.     Lay  them  in  a  freezing  box  for  an  hour  to  finish  freezing. 


ICES. 


1009 


(3547).  COEN  (Mais). 

tin  molds,  representing  a  medium-sized  ear  of  corn,  partly  with  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No. 
3464)  and  partly  with  lemon  water  ice  (No.  3604);  in  the  center  of 
each  ear  of  corn  lay  pieces  of  lady  fingers  soaked  in  prunelle.  Close 
the  molds  forcibly,  pack  and  freeze;  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
after,  unmold,  dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a  bowlful  of 
vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  and  whipped  cream  (No.  50),  half 


Fig.  676. 


of  each,  well  beaten  together,  adding  a  little  kirsch. 


(3548).  COUNTESS  LEDA  ICE  CREAM  (Glace  a  la  Comtesse  Le"da). 

Coat  with  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  the  inside  of  a  mold 
the  shape  of  the  annexed  cut  (Fig.  677),  able  to  contain  one  quart 
and  a  half  to  two  quarts  of  preparation,  having  previously  packed 
it  well  in  salted  ice;  fill  the  center  with  uncooked  vanilla  ice  cream 
(No.  3466),  into  which  have  mixed  fresh  peaches  cut  in  four  and  in- 
fused in  maraschino,  and  freeze  for  one  hour  and  a  half.  At  the 
same  time  mold  a  swan  with  almond  ice  cream  (No.  3461).  At 
the  moment  of  serving  unmold  the  large  form  on  a  napkin.  Sur- 
round the  base  with  lady  bouchees  frosted  with  vanilla  and  straw- 
berry frosting  (No.  3376),  and  on  the  top  dress  the  swan.  Serve 
separately  a  kirsch  sauce,  made  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  and  whipped  cream  (No.  50), 
beaten  together  with  a  little  kirsch. 


Fm.   677. 


(3549).  DICE,  DOMINOES  AND  OAEDS  (D&,  Dominos  et  Cartes). 

Dice. — Fill  some  cube-shaped  tin  molds  two  inches  in  diameter  with  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No. 
3464);  in  the  center  lay  some  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino;  pack  in  salted  ice,  freeze  and 
unmold  half  an  hour  later.  Imitate  the  black  dots  of  the  dice  with  small  chocolate  pastilles  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  pressing  them  down  into  the  ice;  put  them  in  a  freezing  box  to 


FIG.  678. 


FIG.  679. 


FIG.  580. 


FIG.  681. 


freeze  until  the  ice  has  become  firm,  then  stand  on  a  lace  paper  and  cover  each  dice  with  a  box  of 
wafers  cut  square,  being  two  and  three-quarters  inches  on  each  side,  held  together  with  sugar  cooked 
to  "crack"  (No.  171);  fasten  on  top  a  quarter-inch  ball  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  of  four  distinct 
colors,  iced  with  caramel,  or  else  a  walnut  emptied  and  filled  with  small  candies;  fasten  together  to 
enclose  the  candies. 

Dominoes. — Have  hinged  tin  molds  two  and  three-eighths  inches  long  by  one  and  three-eighths 
wide  and  half  an  inch  high,  opening  through  their  thickness;  fill  them  half  full  with  virgin  mar- 
aschino cream  and  the  other  half  with  chocolate  (No.  3449);  pack  in  ice  for  half  an  hour,  unmold, 
and  in  the  center  of  the  white  side,  and  across  from  side  to  side,  lay  a  strip  of  angelica,  and  on 
both  sides  of  this  range  small  dots  of  chocolate  to  imitate  dominoes;  form  a  small  easel  of  wafers 
with  a  ledge  at  the  base;  on  each  side  place  two  dominoes,  making  four  for  each  guest,  and  over  the 
whole  stand  a  cover  as  explained  for  the  dice. 

Cards. — Procure  square  boxes  made  of  pasteboard,  each  panel  having  a  playing  card  on  it. 
These  boxes  should  have  double  boxes  filling  in  the  interior;  fill  this  inside  box  with  ice  cream, 
then  serve. 


1010 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3550).  EGGS  A  LA  TEEMONTAINE,  EED  WINE  SAUCE  (CEufs  a  la  Tremontaine,  Sauce  au  Vin 

Eouge). 

Mix  some  fruits  previously  cut  dice  shaped  with  whipped  cream  (No.  50);  fill  spherical  molds 
of  one  and  one-eighth  inches  in  diameter,  freeze  and  unmold.  Coat  some 
hinged  tinned  molds,  the  shape  of  an  egg,  containing  a  gill  each,  with 
pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454);  in  the  center  place  the  spherically  molded 
whipped  cream,  close  and  clean  off  the  surplus,  freeze,  unmold  and  serve 
on  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  separately  a  red  wine  sauce  prepared  as  follows: 
Infuse  some  cinnamon  and  a  slice  of  lemon  in  good  red  wine;  sweeten 
and  stand  the  saucepan  on  the  fire.  As  soon  as  the  wine  begins 
to  whiten  thicken  with  fecula  diluted  in  cold  water,  strain,  leave  stand 
till  very  cold,  then  serve. 


FIG.  682. 


(3551).  ESMEEALDA  ICE  OEEAM  (Glace  a  TEsm^ralda). 

Mix  one  pint  of  strawberry  pulp,  three  pints  of  cream,  three  quarters  of  a  one  pound  of  sugar; 
strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  freeze  and  stir  in  as  much  whipped  cream  (No. 
50;.  Pound  four  ounces  of  burnt  almonds  with  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla 
bean  and  half  a  gill  of  cream;  put  into  a  basin  six  egg-yolks  and  five 
ounces  of  sugar;  dilute  with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  cook  on  a 
slow  fire  without  boiling;  cool  and  add  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  little 
orange  flower  water;  freeze.  Stir  in  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  the  finely 
pounded  burnt  almonds  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  shredded  pis- 
tachios. Fill  a  pyramid-shaped  mold  made  in  two  separate  longi- 
tudinal divisions,  half  with  the  strawberry  and  the  other  half  with 
the  burnt  almond  preparation;  freeze  for  half  an  hour,  unmold  and 
on  top  place  an  apricot  steeped  in  prunelle  cherries. 


(3552).  PEASOATI  ICE  OEEAM  (Glace   Prascati). 


Fio.  683. 


Fill  a  round  shallow  tin  mold,  having  flaring  sides  with  a  depression 

in  the  center,  the  dimensions  being  three  inches  in  diameter  and  one  inch  deep,  with  light  vanilla 
ice  cream  preparation  (No.  3458);  pack  in  ice  and  freeze  for  half  an  hour,  unmold  and  put  in  the 
center  some  fiori  di  latte  with  kirsch  (No.  3469);  lay  them  in  the  freezing  box  to  freeze,  then  on  top 
of  each  set  a  macaroon  soaked  in  maraschino;  push  through  a  pocket  some  very  firm  iced  biscuit 
preparation,  turning  it  around  to  form  into  a  pyramid;  decorate  the 
top  with  candied  fruits;  freeze  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before 
serving. 

(3553).  FEOMAGE  GLAOE  (Fromage  Glace"). 

Have  an  iced  mold  (see  Fig.  684);  divide  it  in  three  parts  with 
partitions  made  of  tin  and  pack  it  well  in  salted  ice.  Put  into  a  vessel 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  apricot  pulp,  a  gill  and  a  half  of  raspberry 
juice,  the  juice  of  two  oranges,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  and  one  pint  of  cream;  strain  this  through  a  sieve  and  freeze, 
adding  to  it  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Arrange  this 
preparation  in  one  of  the  compartments,  in  the  other  strawberry  water  ice 
(No.  3607),  and  in  thethii'd  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No.  3464),  adding  apricots 
macerated  in  maraschino.  Take  the  partitions  out,  fill  up,  coat  well,  pack 
the  mold  in  salted  ice,  freeze  for  one  hour,  then  unmold  on  a  napkin. 
This  preparation  is  rarely  used  nowadays. 


FIG.  684. 


(3554).  HAELEQUIN  ICE  OEEAM  (Glace  Arlequin). 

This  ice  is  molded  in  four  triangular-shaped  molds;  fill  one  with  coffee  ice  cream  (No.  3463), 
another  with  vanilla  (No.  3458),  another  with  pistachio  (No.  3454)  and  the  fourth  with  strawberry 
ice  (No.  3607).  Imbed  and  freeze  for  half  an  hour,  then  unmold.  Put  them  in  a  brick-shaped 
mold  three  inches  square.  The  triangles  should  be  two  inches  on  one  side  by  an  inch  and  a  half  in 


ICES. 


1011 


height.  The  mold  should  be  eight  inches  long.  Place  the  triangles  in  the  mold,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
686,  having  the  vanilla  at  the  bottom,  one  side  the  strawberry,  the  other  the  pistachio  and  keeping 
the  coffee  on  the  top.  Press  the  cover  down  well  so  no  empty  space  re- 
mains and  freeze  for  half  an  hour.  Now  mold  some  chocolate  ice  cream 
in  spherical  molds  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  freeze  for  half  an 
hour  and  unmold  the  whole.  Cut  the  brick  up  in  slices  with  a  special 
knife  (Fig.  700)  dipped  in  hot  water, 
and  place  each  one  on  a  four-inch  square 
sheet  of  lace  paper;  fasten  the  chocolate 
drops  exactly  on  the  center  and  put  them 
into  a  freezing  box  for  half  an  hour  be- 
fore serving.  All  creams  that  are  to  be  FlG-  685>  FlG- 
cut  should  be  laid  on  a  small  board  so  as  to  facilitate  cutting  and  removing  them,  and  to  keep 
them  in  good  shape. 


(3555),  JARDINIERE  OUTLETS  (Ootelettes  Jardiniere). 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  rice,  refresh  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
boiling  cream,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon.  Boil  up  once,  push  it  into  the 
oven  for  an  hour,  then  remove  and  whip  it  well,  adding  a  quart  of  cream;  freeze  and  as  the  prepa- 
ration takes  body  mix  into  it  as  much  sweetened  whipped  cream  as  there  is  ice.  Mold  in  cutlet- 


FIG.  687. 


shaped  molds  and  when  thoroughly  frozen  turn  them  out  and  dip  each  one  in  macaroon  dust  sifted 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Dress  on  a  salpicon  of  fruit  macerated  in  maraschino  and  thickened  with 
apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  prepared  with  maraschino;  trim  the  handles  with  frills  (No.  10)  and 
serve  at  once. 


(3556).  LA  GRANDINA  (La  Grandma), 

Coat  some  oval-shaped  plaited  paper  cases  with  a  part  of  the  following  ice:  Whip  together  one 
pint  of  raspberries,  the  peel  of  one  orange  and  the  juice  of  three, 
also  the  juice  of  six  lemons;  tint  this  a  beautiful  pale  red  and  boil, 
adding  enough  sugar  to  make  a  twenty-two  degree  syrup;  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze.  When  consistent  and  smooth  add 
to  it  half  as  much  whipped  cream  and  two  ounces  of  finely  cut-up 
citron  peel;  partly  fill  the  inside  of  the  cases  with  iced  chocolate  biscuit 
preparation  flavored  with  vanilla,  into  which  mix  pounded  macaroons 
and  a  few  roasted  and  pulverized  hazel-nuts;  freeze  for  one  hour, 
putting  the  cases  in  a  freezing  box  and  finish  filling  with  the 
raspberry  ice,  having  it  slightly  bomb-shaped  on  top;  decorate  with  whole  cherries  placed 
directly  in  the  center;  dredge  the  top  with  finely  shredded  pistachios;  return  to 
the  freezing  box  and  freeze  for  one  hour. 


FIG.  688. 


(3557),  LEMONS  IS  SURPRISE  (Citrons  en  Surprise). 

Pour  a  quart  of  fresh  cream  into  a  vessel,  pound  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds 
and  a  few  bitter  almonds  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  sift  through  a  sieve  and  put 
it  with  the  cream,  adding  two  gills  of  maraschino  and  four  ounces  of  candied 
fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares;  tint  it  to  a  soft  pink,  then  freeze.  With  this 
cream  fill  some  large  lemons  that  have  been  emptied.  Tie  around  with  ribbons  the  same  as 
shown  in  Fig.  689. 


FIG.  689. 


1012 


THE    EPICUREAN 


(3558).  LEONA  IOE  OKEAM  (Glace   L6ona). 

First  prepare  some  natural  ice  glasses  the  shape  of  Fig.  690.  (For  preparing  these  glasses 
see  No.  3434.)  When  they  are  all  ready  put  them  into  a  freezing  box  until  serving 
time.  Prepare  some  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  flavored  with  maraschino  and  drain  it 
on  a  sieve.  Make  an  ice  with  half  a  pound  of  almonds,  ground  a  few  at  a  time, 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  pint  of  water,  adding  two  gelatine  leaves  dissolved 
in  two  gills  of  water,  and  a  gill  of  vanilla  syrup;  strain  this  through  a  fine  tammy 
and  freeze  in  slightly  salted  ice;  work  well  with  the  spatula,  incorporating  as  much 
whipped  cream  and  a  salpicon  of  assorted  fruits  cut  in  quarter-inch  squares, 
macerated  in  kirsch  and  drained.  "With  this  ice  fill  some  spiral-shaped  molds  and 
pack  in  ice.  Half  an  hour  later,  just  when  prepared  to  serve,  fill  the  glasses  with 
the  whipped  cream.  Unmold  the  ices,  lay  them  over  the  cream  and  on  top  of  each 
place  a  brandied  cherry  or  one  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125);  serve  at  once. 

(3559).  MACEDOINE  OKOQUETTES  (Croquettes  Mace"doine) 
Mold  in  tins  the  size  and  shape  of  a  medium  croquette  some  burnt  almond 
cream  (No.  3455),  ranging  exactly  in  the  center  some  biscuits  soaked  in  maraschino; 
FIG.  690.        freeze  for  half  an  hour,  then  unmold  and  roll  in  pulverized  macaroons  sifted  through 
a  sieve.     Have  in  an  ice  cream  freezer  all  sorts  of  fresh  or  preserved  fruits  cut  in 
quarter-inch  squares;  to  them  add  lemon  juice,  maraschino  and  champagne;  freeze  with  very  little 
ice  and  when  extremely  cold  drain  properly  and  mix  in  whipped  cream  (No. 
50);  dress  on  saucers,  laying  the  croquettes  over,  one  or  two  on  each  saucer. 

(3560).  MAOEDOINE  OF  FBTJITS  AND  ST.  JACQUES  CUPS  (MacMoine  de 
Fruits  et  Coupes  St.  Jacques). 

Macedoine. — Lay  in  a  vessel  one  peeled  banana  cut  in  half-inch  squares, 
one  well-peeled  orange  having  the  meats  lyiiig  between  the  intersections  re- 
moved with  a  knife  and  all  the  seeds  suppressed,  a  slice  of  pineapple  half  an 
inch  thick  cut  in  dice,  four  ounces  of  grapes,  two  ounces  of  strawberries  or 
raspberries,  four  ounces  of  cherries,  pears  or  peaches,  half  a  gill  of  kirsch  or 
maraschino  and  a  little  powdered  sugar;  mingle  all  together  and  keep  it  cold 
in  a  freezer  with  ice  packed  around;  serve  in  a  compote  dish. 

St.  Jacques  Cup. — With  this  macedoine  fill  some  wide  champagne 
cups;  cover  the  macedoine  with  kirsch  or  maraschino  sherbert  and  serve  (see  Fig.  691). 


FIG.  691. 


(3561).  MADELEINE  ICE  CREAM  (Glace  Madeleine). 

Decorate  a  Madeleine  mold  (Fig.  692)  with  candied  fruits;  coat  the  inside  with  vanilla  ice 
cream  (No.  3458)  and  fill  with  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No.  3464)  into  which 
haAre  mingled  a  salpicon  of  fruits  and  whipped  cream.  In  the  very  center 
lay  a  little  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  pack  this  mold  in  ice  and  freeze 
for  two  hours;  unmold  on  a  napkin  and  surround  with  fancy  cakes;  serve 
at  the  same  time  a  sauce  made  of  whipped  cream,  vanilla  ice  cream  and 
Cura§oa. 


(3562).  MADKILIAN  (Madrilene). 

Place  in  a  vessel  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar, 
diluting  slowly  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  that  has  just  had  a  quarter 
Fio.  693.  of  a  vanilla  stick  infused  therein  for  fifteen  minutes;   strain  through  a 

fine  sieve.     Butter  some  timbale  molds  (No.  3,  Fig.  137)  and  fill  them  with 

the  preparation ;  stand  them  in  a  sautoir  with  boiling  water  to  reach  to  half  their  height  and  poach; 
when  they  are  firm  to  the  touch  leave  stand  till  ^old,  then  unmold.  Pound  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds  and  a  few  bitter  ones,  all  freshly  peeled ;  moisten  slowly  with  a  quart  of  milk  and 
strain  forcibly  through  a  napkin;  add  ten  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  gill  of  kirsch,  also  a  little  vanilla 
syrup  (No.  3165);  strain,  freeze,  and  when  the  ice  has  congealed  mix  in  one  Italian  meringue 
ogg-white  (No.  140).  Mold  in  cylindrical  molds  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  by  two  inches 


ICES. 


1013 


in  height,  placing  the  small  timbale  directly  in  the  center;  freeze  for  half  an  hour,  then  unmold 
and  lay  on  lace  paper;  on  top  have  a  handsome  brandied  plum,  and  around  this  and  the  base  set 
an  even  row  of  cherries  cut  in  two. 


(3563).  MAEVELOUS  (Merveilleuse). 

Break  six  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  basin  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  and 
half  a  pound  of  freshly  roasted,  coarsely  ground  coffee;  set  the  basin  on 
a  moderate  fire  and  stir  continuously,  without  permitting  it  to  boil, 
until  the  preparation  will  cover  the  spatula;  strain  through  a  fine 
sieve,  leave  till  cold  and  freeze,  adding  the  same  quantity  of  sweet- 
ened whipped  cream,  half  a  pound  of  chopped  burnt  almonds,  and  as 
much  candied  chestnuts  broken  in  small  pieces.  Put  one  pint  of 
orange  water  ice  (No.  3605)  in  a  freezer  with  the  same  amount  of 
burnt  hazel-nut  ice  cream  (No.  3464)  and  as  much  whipped  cream. 
With  this  preparation  coat  some  small  paper  cases,  fill  the  inside  with  the  first  preparation 
and  surround  with  orange  flowers. 


Fio.  693. 


(3564).  MIGNON  ICE  CREAM  (Glace  a  la  Mignonne). 

Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  in  water  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  put  it  into  a  vessel  and 

pour  over  some  vanilla  syrup  (No.  3165)  at  thirty-two  degrees. 
Place  in  a  freezer  one  pint  of  No.  1  vanilla  ice  cream  (No. 
3458),  and  the  well-drained  rice.  With  this  cream  fill  some 
shell-shaped  tin  molds;  freeze  and  unmold  after  one  hour,  lay 
in  the  center  some  fresh  fruits  and  soaked  macaroons,  and 
FIG.  694.  cover  the  whole  with  a  layer  of  very  smooth  whipped  cream; 

decorate  the  top  with  whipped  cream  pushed  through  a  cornet; 
freeze  and  serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  kirsch. 


(3565).  MOKABELLE  (Mokabelle). 

Put  into  a  coffee  filter  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground  coffee  and  half  a  vanilla  stick;  moisten 
with  a  pint  of  water  to  obtain  a  very  highly  concentrated  extract  of  coffee,  then  add  to  it  sufficient 
syrup  to  bring  the  composition  to  twenty-two  degrees,  strain  through  a  tammy,  freeze  and  when 
well  congealed  pour  in  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  With  this  ice  fill  some  cups,  either  of 
sugar,  china  or  fancy  pasteboard  ones;  return  to  the  freezing  box  and  freeze  once  more.  If 
desired  the  tops  can  be  covered  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  extract  of  coffee  and  kirsch 
mixed  together. 


(3566).  MONTELIMAR  WITH  HAZEL-NUT  CREAM  (Montelimar  a  la  Oreme  aux  Noisettes). 

Hazel-nut  Cream. — Koast  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  hazel-nuts;  carefully  remove  their  outer 
skins  and  pound  with  two  gills  of  cream.  Put  in  a  tinned  basin  twelve  egg-whites  and  ten  ounces 
of  sugar;  stir  to  mix  thoroughly,  then  moisten  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  set  the 
basin  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  continuously,  then  remove  from  the  fire  when  the  prep- 
aration covers  the  spatula,  add  the  nuts  and  leave  stand  till  cool.  Pour  in  a 
pint  of  rich  sweet  cream;  strain  through  a  sieve  and  freeze. 

Montelimar. — Pound  in  a  mortar  three  ounces  of  peeled  sweet  almonds  with 
a  gill  of  kirsch;  cook  ten  ounces  of  sugar  to  three  hundred  and  two  degrees  Fahr- 
enheit or  "small  crack;''  mix  it  slowly  in  a  mortar  with  the  almonds,  leave  till 
cold,  then  divide  it  into  three  parts;  one  of  these  color  red  with  vegetal  carmine 
flavored  with  Cura§oa,  the  other  color  green  with  spinach  green  or  vegetal  green 
flavored  with  orange  flower  water,  and  keep  the  third  part  white;  roll  them  each 
into  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick  strings.     Cut  some  lady  fingers  (No.  3377)  to 
the  same  size,  and  baste  over  with  maraschino;  pack  a  Montelimar  mold  (Fig.  695)  in  ice;  coat  it 
with  a  thin  layer  of  the  nut  ice  cream  (No.  3461),  fill  it  perfectly  full,  intermingling  the  various 
colors  of  almond  paste  and  the  biscuits,  and  close  it  forcibly.     Two  hours  after  unmold  and  cut 
in  slices  to  serve. 


FIG.  695. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


(3567).  MUfTS  A  LA  DEJAZET,  VENUS  OEEAM  (Manchons  a  la  Dejazet,  Creme  Venus). 

Prepare  the  muffs  according  to  the  following  description:  Sift  through  a  sieve  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  place  it  in  a  vessel  with  four  whole  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  a  little 
powdered  vanilla;  spread  this  on  a  buttered  and  floured  baking  sheet  to  the  thickness  of  about  one- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven;  divide  this  cake  into 
bands  each  six  and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  two  and  a  half  wide,  roll 
them  on  a  piece  of  rounded  wood  two  inches  in  diameter,  cover  them 
with  a  light  layer  of  meringue  (No.   140),  and  over  this  scatter  in 
profusion  some  pistachios  and  almonds,  chopped  in  eighth  of  an  inch 
FIG.  690.  pieces,  mixing  them  with  dried  currants. 

Venus  Cream. — Put  into  a  vessel  one  vanilla  bean,  as  much  Ceylon  cinnamon  broken  small, 
a  little  mace  and  the  peel  of  an  orange;  boil  a  quart  of  very  fresh  cream,  pour  it  over  the  spices, 
cover  and  leave  infuse  for  three  hours.  Break  ten  egg-yolks  in  a  basin,  work  well  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  the  boiled  cream,  coloring  it  to  a  soft  pink.  Cook  this  preparation,  let  stand 
till  cold,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve;  freeze  and  add  to  this  ice  one  quart  of  whipped  cream. 
Dress  each  muff  on  a  separate  sheet  of  paper;  fill  the  bottom  with  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick  layer  of  pistachio  cream  (No.  3454),  over  this  the  Venus 
cream,  and  on  top  another  one  of  pistachio  to  close  the  orifice.  Keep  in 
the  freezing  box  for  half  an  hour.  When  serving  fasten  in  the  center  of  both 
ends  a  stick  of  angelica. 


(3568).  MUSHROOMS  (Champignons). 


FIG.  697. 


For  these  have  some  molds  representing  mushrooms  of  various  sizes;  fill 
them  with  maraschino  ice  cream  (No.  3462),  freeze,  unmold  and  dip  the  ends 
or  stalks  in  grated  chocolate  to  imitate  the  roots.  Dress  piled  high  on  a  folded  napkin. 


(3569).  NEAPOLITAN  IOE  OEEAM  (Glace  Napolitaine). 

Pack  in  a  freezer  a  Neapolitan  mold  as  represented  in  Fig.  698;  it  must  be  made  in  three 
divisions;  fill  one  of  the  round  parts  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458),  the  other  with  pistachio  ice 
cream  (No.  3454),  and  the  flat  or  center  part  with  strawberry  water  ice  (No.  3607),  having  the  mold 


FIG 


FIG.  700. 


FIG.  698. 


quite  full  so  that  when  forcibly  closed  the  surplus  cream  runs  out  all  around,  thus  preventing  the 
ice  from  becoming  salty;  pack  it  well  in  ice  and  let  freeze  for  one  hour;  unmold  on  a  small  board 
and  cut  it  into  five-eighths  of  an  inch  slices  with  a  special  tinned  copper  or  silver-plated  knife  so  as 
not  to  blacken  the  ice  (Fig.  700);  this  knife  should  be  dipped  into  warm  water  every  time  a  slice  is 
cut.  Dress  these  slices  on  small  lace  papers. 


ICES. 


1015 


(3570).  BASKET  FILLED  WITH  ORANGES  (Panier   Garni  d'Oranges). 

The  basket  is  of  wicker  furnished  with  an  inside  case;  one  of  the  handles  must  be  trimmed 
with  a  ribbon.  Fill  the  inside  case  with  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No. 
3446)  into  which  incorporate  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Pare 
some  oranges  to  the  pulp,  remove  the  white  skin  adhering  to  each 
section  and  marinate  them  in  a  little  maraschino,  sugar  and 
kirsch;  with  these  pieces  of  orange  decorate  the  top  of  the  cream 
and  serve. 


(3571).  POSILIPO  ORANGES  (Oranges  Posilipo).  FIG 

Cut  some  three-inch  in  diameter  oranges  straight  through  the 
center;  empty  the  insides  entirely,  scallop  the  edge  of  the  peel  with  a 
machine  (Fig.  654)  and  cut  some  uniform  slits  half  an  inch  below  this 
edge;  run  a  ribbon  through,  tying  it  in  a  bow  on  one  side.  Have  a 
spherical  mold  two  and  three-quarters  inches  in  diameter  and  divided 
in  three  even  hinged  parts;  fill  one  of  these  parts  with  strawberry  ice 
cream  (No.  3451),  the  other  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458)  and  the 
third  with  pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454);  equalize  all  these  parts  so 
that  when  the  mold  is  closed  there  will  be  no  more  than  just  sufficient 
to  fill  them.  Pack  in  ice  and  freeze  for  one  hour;  unmold  and  lay 
the  pistachio  side  in  the  half  orange;  stick  a  piece  of  angelica  in  the 
top,  it  being  run  through  a  preserved  cherry. 


FIG.  70S. 


(3572).  SEVILLE  ORANGES,  AND  ORANGE  MAOEDOINE  BASKETS  (Oranges  a  la  Seville  et 

Paniers  d'Oranges  Mac6doine). 

Prepare  some  Seville  oranges  or  mandarins  the  same  as  for  orange  Kussian  punch  (No.  3613); 
after  they  have  been  emptied  and  are  well  wiped  inwardly,  freeze,  then  fill  with  vanilla  ice  cream 
(No.  3458)  into  which  has  been  added  some  candied  orange  and  citron  peel  cut  in  very  thin  shreds 
and  macerated  in  a  little  maraschino,  Curagoa  and  kirsch.  Serve,  surrounding  each 
one  with  green  smilax.  The  baskets  are  prepared  the  same  as  the  Andalusian  (No. 
3522),  filling  them  with  a  cooked  almond  or  hazel-nut  cream  (No.  3464),  into  which 
mix  a  macedoine  of  fruits;  here  and  there  on  top  scatter  some  halved  pistachios  and 
cherries. 

(3573).  PARISIAN  ICE  CREAM  (Glace    a  la  Parisienne). 

Have  some  conical  molds  rounded  on  one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other  (Fig. 
703);  fill  them  half  with  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  and  half  with  vanilla  ice 
cream  (No.  3458).  The  idea  of  using  these  molds  is  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  using  a 
spoon  to  mold  the  ice.  On  the  round  end  lay  a  small  macaroon  soaked  in  maraschino; 
close  the  mold  and  remove  any  surplus  ice  issuing  from  the  joints;  pack  in  ice  and 
freeze  for  an  hour.  On  removing  dress  them  in  specially  made  glasses  as  shown  in  Fig.  703,  and 
serve. 

(3574).  PEARS  OR  APPLES  IN  SURPRISE  (Poires  ou  Pommes  en  Surprise), 
Empty  out  the  insides  of  the  fruit,  either  apples,  pears,  oranges  or  others,  lay  them  in  a 


FIG. 


FIG.  704.  FIG.  705. 

freezer  imbedded  in  ice  for  one  hour  and  fill  with  various  ices,  either  of  cream  or  water, 
salted  ice  to  freeze  for  two  hours,  then  dress  on  a  socle  or  dish  with  smilax. 


Pack  in 


1016  THE    EPICUREAN, 

(3575).  POTATOES  (Pommes  de  Terre), 

Procure  lead  molds  resembling  medium-sized  potatoes;  nil  them  with  chestnut  ice  cream  (No. 
3465)  and  stuff  the  centers  with  biscuits  soaked  in  maraschino,  also  a 
salpicon  of  fruits.  Freeze  for  half  an  hour,  then  unmold.  Koll  them  in 
grated  sweet  chocolate  and  imitate  the  eyes  by  sticking  in  sticks  of  almonds; 
dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve  separately  a  sauce  made  of  whipped  cream 
and  a  little  maraschino. 

FlG- 706-  (3576).  EIBAMBELLE  (Kibambelle). 

Boxes  imitating  the  fancy  boxes  of  the  itinerant  dealers  of  Paris.  Coat  the  bottom  and  sides 
with  nougat  cream  (No.  3452);  fill  the  center  with  uncooked  maraschino  cream  (No.  3462)  into 
which  incorporate  half  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  one  ounce  of  small  vanilla  chocolate 
pastilles  for  each  quart  of  preparation.  Pack  these  boxes  in  a  freezing  box  or  cave  and  serve 
accompanied  by  small  wafer  cakes  or  very  thin  waffle  cornets. 

(3577).  KIOE  A  LA  EISTOEI  (ffia  &  la  Eistori), 

Coat  a  dome-shaped  mold  with  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458),  range  on  the  bottom  a  layer  of 
crushed  candied  chestnuts,  over  these  a  bed  of  chocolate  mousse  (No.  3473),  then  another  layer  of 
chestnuts  and  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675);  finish  filling  with  a  light  burnt  almond  cream  (No. 
3455).  Have  the  mold  quite  full,  forcing  the  cover  on  tightly,  pack  in  salted  ice  and  freeze  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Unmold  on  a  garnishing  of  thoroughly  boiled  rice  macerated  in  an 
eighteen-degree  vanilla  syrup;  serve  a  sauce-boatful  of  apricot  maraschino  sauce  at  the  same  time. 

(3578).  EIOE  WITH  MAEASOHINO  (Eiz  au  Marasquin). 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  milk;  when  dry  and  soft  sweeten  it  and  two  minutes  after  remove  and 
put  away  to  cool.  Dilute  it  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  vanilla  syrup  (No.  3165)  and  three  tablespoonf  uls 
of  maraschino  and  keep  it  on  one  side.  Freeze  a  dome  mold  in  pounded  ice  and  salt  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  opening  it;  when  cold  range  the  ice  inside  of  it  in  layers,  bestrewing  each  one  with 
candied  fruits  cut  in  large  dice.  After  the  mold  is  full  first  close  the  opening  with  a  round  piece 
of  paper  larger  than  itself,  then  with  its  own  cover,  closing  the  joints  with  butter  so  that  the  salted 
water  cannot  penetrate  inside;  cover  also  with  salted  ice  and  one  hour  later  wash  the  mold  quickly 
in  warm  water,  dry  and  invert  the  rice  on  a  cold  dish. 

(3579).  SICILIAN  (Sicilienne). 

Whip  twelve  raw  egg-yolks  in  a  tinned  copper  basin  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  quart 
of  boiling  milk;  add  three  ounces  of  roasted  coriander  seeds,  a  piece  of  cinnamon  and  half  a 
pound  of  chocolate;  cook  on  a  slow  fire,  allow  to  cool, then  add  a  pint  of  cream;  pass  this  through  a 
sieve;  freeze,  and  add  six  ounces  of  almonds,  each  one  to  be  cut  lengthwise  in  four,  and  three  ounces 
of  candied  orange  or  lemon  peel  cut  up  very  finely.  Have  one  quart  of  chocolate  ice  cream  (No. 
3449)  into  which  mix  half  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Line  a  square  one-quart  mold  with 
bands  of  biscuit  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  At  the  bottom  place  a  layer  of  the  chocolate  ice 
cream,  over  this  slices  of  guava  jelly  and  citron  marmalade  and  the  chocolate  cream,  repeating 
the  operation  until  the  mold  is  completely  full.  Pack  in  salted  ice,  freeze  for  one  hour,  unmold 
and  dress. 

(3580).  ALGEEIAN  TIMBALES  (Timbales  a  1'Algenenne), 

Lay  in  a  vessel  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  six  ounces  of  sifted  flour  and  six  ounces  of  finely  ground 
almonds  and  two  egg-whites;  mix  thoroughly,  then  incorporate  ten  partly  beaten  egg-whites;  this 
paste  should  be  flowing  and  smooth;  add  four  tablespoonf  uls  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Spread 
this  paste  on  a  waxed  baking  sheet  in  a  band  nineteen  inches  in  length  by  six  and  a  half  inches  in 
width;  push  it  into  a  moderate  oven  and  when  partly  baked  pare  the  edges  off  with  a  knife  and 
finish  baking;  when  of  a  fine  golden  color  remove  from  the  oven  and  range  it  against  the  interior 
sides  of  a  ring  six  inches  in  diameter  by  six  inches  in  height.  From  the  same  paste  cut  out  three 
rounds,  one  eight  inches  in  diameter  and  two  of  six  and  a  half  inches;  of  one  of  these  two  rounds 
cut  out  the  center  so  as  to  form  a  ring  which  will  serve  as  a  cover  for  the  timbale,  the  other  for  the 
bottom,  and  the  seven-inch  one  is  to  be  cut  into  six  parts;  these  are  intended  for  lining  the  dome- 
shaped  mold;  clip  off  the  surplus  wafer  and  fasten  the  pieces  to  the  inside  with  sugar  cooked  to 


ICES. 


101? 


"crack"  (No.  171);  cover  over  with  well-reduced  apricot  marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  decorate  with 
a  green  lime  (chinois)  on  the  center;  around  fasten  on  some  halved  cherries,  dredge  the  whole  with 
shredded  or  chopped  pistachios  and  surround  the  base  of  the  timbale  with  a  row  of  nice  red  candled 
cherries. 

Salpicon. — Prepare  a  salpicon  of  pineapple,  cherries  and  almonds;  macerate  in  a  little  kirsch 
and  maraschino  for  one  hour. 

Racahout  Cream. — Put  six  egg-yolks  into  a  basin  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
racahout  and  ten  ounces  of  sugar;  beat  well  with  a  whip,  adding  one  quart  of  boiling  milk;  cook 
this  cream  until  it  almost  boils,  without  allowing  it  to  do  so,  then  strain,  cool  and  freeze,  mixing 
in  half  as  much  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Pack  two  molds  in  ice,  having  covers  to  fasten  on  the 
outside;  one  cylindrical,  five  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  and  six  inches  high,  and  the  other 
dome-shaped,  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  at  its  base.  Pour  some  maraschino  over 
macaroons;  place  them  in  layers  in  the  cylindrical  mold,  then  racahout  cream  to  cover,  on  this  the 
fruits  and  more  of  the  cream  and  then  macaroons  (No.  3379),  continuing  until  the  mold  is  entirely 
full,  finishing  with  the  cream;  fit  on  the  cover,  freeze  for  one  hour,  then  unmold  it  into  the  above 
wafer  timbale;  lay  this  timbale  on  a  folded  napkin,  put  on  to  it  first  the  wafer  ring  and  then  the 
dome  cover  and  serve. 

(3581).  CHATEAUBKIAKD  TIMBALE  (Timbale  Chateaubriand), 

Pound  finely  half  a  pound  of  almonds  and  mix  in  four  ounces  of  butter,  the  chopped  peel  of  a 
lemon,  six  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  salt  and  three  eggs;  make  a  firm,  but  not  too  hard  paste  and  leave 
it  set  for  one  hour;  roll  it  out  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  from  this  flat  cut  six 
pieces  each  six  inches  long  by  three  and  a  half  wide;  lay  them 
very  straight  on  a  baking  sheet.  Cut  also  two  pieces  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick,  one  having  a  diameter  of  seven  and  a  quarter  inches 
and  the  other  nine  inches;  cook  all  these  in  a  moderate  oven  and 
cool  under  weights.  When  very  cold  pare  them  on  all  sides  to 
obtain  panels  six  inches  long  and  three  and  a  quarter  wide;  bevel 
the  edges  on  the  inner  long  sides;  cover  them  lightly  with  apricot 
marmalade  (No.  3675)  and  glaze  with  royal  icing  (No.  102),  white, 
red  and  chocolate.  Decorate  with  royal  icing,  then  fasten  the 
panels  together  without  attaching  them  to  the  baking  sheet;  deco- 
rate the  joints  of  each  panel  with  a  small  royal  ice  beading.  Prepare 
the  bottom  piece  six  cornered,  eight  inches  from  end  to  end,  and 
the  top  seven  and  a  half  inches;  ice  the  bottom,  one  in  white  and 
the  top  one  pale  green;  on  this  one  stand  a  dome  made  of  meringue 
or  royal  icing,  and  on  this  dome  a  lyre,  either  of  royal  icing  or 
gum  paste  (No.  3624);  decorate  around  the  bottom  with  a  border  of 
pink  gum  paste. 

Chateaubriand  Cream. — Pound  four  ounces  of  almonds  with 
half  an  ounce  of  bitter  ones  and  two  gills  of  cream.  Put  ten  egg-yolks 
in  a  basin  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  half  a  vanilla  bean,  a  pint 
of  milk  and  the  pounded  almonds;  cook  the  preparation  on  a  slow  fire  without  boiling  till  it 
covers  the  spatula,  then  allow  to  cool;  pour  in  a  pint  of  fresh  cream.  Strain  this  composition 
through  a  sieve,  freeze  and  add  half  as  much  whipped  cream  and  four  ounces  of  shredded  pista- 
chios as  well  as  a  salpicon  of  candied  fruits,  seedless  Malaga  and  Smyrna  raisins,  having  all  of 
these  macerated  for  one  hour  in  kirsch.  Fill  a  six-sided  mold  of  the  same  form  and  size  as  the 
Chateaubriand,  only  half  an  inch  smaller  in  diameter;  pack  well  in  ice  and  freeze  for  two  hours. 
Unmold  the  ice  on  the  largest  round,  place  on  a  dish  with  the  timbale  over,  then  set  the  small 
round  on  top;  decorate  with  the  cupola  or  lyre;  serve. 

(3582).  STUFFED  TOMATOES  (Tomates  Farcies). 
Mask  the  sides  of  a  mold  imitating  a  tomato  with  strawberry  water 
ice  (No.  3607)  and  in  the  center  burnt  almond  ice  cream  (No.  3455)  and  a 
salpicon  of  fruits  and  macaroons  soaked  in  maraschino;  finish  filling,  close 
forcibly,  imbed  in  ice  and  freeze  for  half  an  hour;  unmold,  dress  in  a 
pyramid  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a  bowlful  of  sauce  made  of  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458), 
whipped  cream  (No.  50)  and  prunelle,  well  mixed  together. 


Fia.  707. 


FIG.  708. 


1018 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Fm.  709. 


(3583).  TOKONCHINO  PKOOOPE  (Toronchino  Procope). 

Put  ten  raw  egg-yolks  into  a  tin  basin  containing  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  half 
a  pound  of  burnt  almonds  crushed  with  about  a  gill  of  cream.  Set  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  steadily 
until  the  preparation  covers  the  spatula,  then  take  from  the  fire  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Now 
add  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  little  orange  flower  water,  strain  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  freeze  and 
use  the  cream  to  fill  some  plaited  paper  cases,  scattering  shredded  pistachios  over  the  tops. 

(3584).  TOETONI  CUPS  (Coupes  Tortoni). 

This  ice  requires  the  use  of  lead  molds  representing  plain,  shallow,  round  baskets;  line  them 

with  rather  thin  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451)  arid  freeze  for 
one  hour;  unmold  and  lay  over  sheets  of  paper  placed  on  a 
tin;  fill  quite  full  and  rounded  on  top  with  iced  biscuit  prepara- 
tion (No.  3435)  and  put  them  into  the  freezing  box.  When  the 
iced  biscuit  is  sufficiently  congealed  decorate  each  ice  cream  with 
roses  of  medium  size  molded  in  raspberry,  orange,  lemon  and 
pineapple  water  ices,  one  quart  being  sufficient  for  twelve  flowers; 
fill  some  of  the  rose  molds  with  lemon  and  orange,  others  with 
raspberry  and  pineapple.  Pack  in  ice,  freeze  and  unmold;  lay 
each  one  on  the  above  biscuit  preparation,  it  being  sufficiently  hard  to  have  the  rose  set  firmly  on 
top  of  the  roundest  part;  put  them  in  a  freezing  box  (Fig.  622)  for  half  an  hour  and  serve. 

(3585).  TUTTI-PKUTTI  BISCUITS  (Biscuits  Tutti-Frutti). 

Prepare  a  lady  finger  paste  (No.  3377).  adding  a  little  butter;  spread  it  in  thin  eighth  of  an 
inch  layers  on  sheets  of  paper  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven;  after  it  has  been 
removed  punch  out  round  pieces  with  a  pastry  cutter  two  and  a  quarter 
inches  in  diameter,  also  some  bands  seven  and  a  half  inches  long  by  one  and 
a  half  wide.  Place  one  of  the  rounds  at  the  bottom  of  a  tin  ring  measuring 
two  and  three-quarters  inches  in  diameter  by  an  inch  and  a  half  in  height; 
on  top  of  this  round  range  the  band  in  a  circle.  Fill  the  center  with  two 
kinds  of  ice,  one  lemon  water  ice  (No.  3604)  and  the  other  nut  cream  (No. 
3461),  both  having  a  salpicon  of  fruits  macerated  in  kirsch  added  to  them, 
and  freeze  for  one  hour;  unmold  and  range  each  tutti-frutti  biscuit  on  a 

lace  paper  of  the  same  size.  Cover  entirely  with  a  smooth  coating  of  whipped  cream  and  decorate 
with  lozenges  of  angelica  and  halved  cherries,  placing  a  whole  one  in  the  center;  freeze  once  more 
for  half  an  hour  and  serve. 

(3586).  TUTTI-FRUTTI  (Tutti-Frutti). 

Have  some  very  cold  tutti-frutti  molds  (Fig.  711).  Incorporate  a  salpicon  of 
candied  fruits,  cut  in  three-sixteenths  inch  squares  and  marinated  in  kirsch,  in 
vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458).  Fill  the  molds  half  full  with  this  and  the  other 
half  with  orange  water  ice  (No.  3605).  Close  forcibly,  remove  the  surplus  ice 

and  freeze  for  half  an  hour.     Unmold  and  dress  on  lace  paper,  the 

same  diameter  as  the  tutti-frutti,  and  serve. 

(3587).  VALENCE  CUP  WITH  PEACHES  (Coupe  de  Valence  aux  Peches). 
Prepare  some  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446);  mold  it  in  a  cup 
mold  that  has  been  imbedded  in  ice;  freeze  in  ice  and  salt  for  one  hour; 
unmold  and  decorate  with  peeled  peaches  cut  in  four,  soaked  in  champagne,  sugar  and  maraschino, 
adding  to  them  well-pared  oranges  cut  in  sections,  having  withdrawn  the  seeds. 

(3588).  VERMEIL  GLOBULES  A  LA  DAMSEAUX  (Globules  Vermeilles  a  la  Damseaux). 

To  dress  these  imitated  strawberries 
made  of  ice  cream,  it  requires  shells 
(Fig.  714),  made  of  either  nougat  (No. 
3621),  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618)  or  clear 
sugar.  The  ends  of  the  shells  must  be 
decorated  with  small  flowers  made  of 
cooked  sugar  or  gum  paste.  Mold  half 
FlG-  713-  FlG-  r14-  of  these  ices  in  strawberry  ice  cream  (No. 

3451)   and  the  other    half    in  strawberry  water  ice    (No.    3607);    after  all  are  molded    pack 


FIG.  710. 


FIG. 


ICES. 


1019 


in  ice  and  freeze  for  half  an  hour,  then  unmold  them;  fasten  an  artificial  stalk,  surmounted  with 
small  leaves,  into  each  one.     Place  them  in  the  shells  and  serve  at  once. 

(3589),  WATERMELON  (Pasteque), 

Take  a  pound  of  the  red  pulp  of  a  watermelon,  the  juice  of  four  oranges  and  of  three  lemons, 
an  orange  and  a  lemon  peel,  also  some  syrup  at  twenty  degrees.  Bring  the  composition  to  eight- 
een-degree  heat,  strain  through  a  sieve  and  freeze,  adding  half  a  gill  of  brandy  and  one  quart  of 
whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Coat  a  watermelon-shaped  mold  with  pistachio  cream  (No.  3454);  on  this 
place  the  above  preparation,  with  strawberry  water  ice  (No.  3607)  laid  in  the  center;  pack  and 
freeze  for  two  hours;  unmold  and  cut  it  up  in  four  or  else  in  two;  on  the  red  part  insert  imitation 
watermelon  seeds  made  of  chocolate.  These  halves  or  quarters  can  be  cut  in  slices. 


LAEQE  PIECES, 


(3590).  BACCHUS  (Bacchus). 

Bacchus  represents  wine  and  is  the  companion  piece  to  the  well,  representing  water.  Molds 
can  be  purchased  already  made  for  these  ices.  Bacchus'  barrel  is  of  chocolate  ice  cream  (No. 
3449)  and  Bacchus  is  of  virgin  orange  cream  (No.  3459) ;  the  foot  on  which  the  barrel  rests  is  of 


FIG.  715. 


pistachio  ice  cream  (No.  3454).  Mold  quite  full,  close  forcibly,  having  it  completely  filled,  and 
freeze  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  unmold  on  a  water  socle  as  represented  in  Fig.  715,  being  careful 
to  have  this  piece  to  correspond  with  the  other  as  regards  its  proportions. 


(3591).  CANTALOUP  IN  SURPRISE  AND  CANTALOUP  MOLDED  (Cantaloup  en  Surprise  et 

Cantaloup  Moule"X 

In  Surprise. — Take  a  handsome,  fresh  and  very  ripe  cantaloup  melon,  make  an  opening  on 
the  top  two  and  a  half  inches  below  the  stalk,  and  on  the  bias,  directing  the  tip  of  the  knife  toward 
the  center;  suppress  all  the  ripe  pulp  from  the  inside,  put  back  the  cover  and  imbed  this  rind  in 
salted  ice.  With  the  removed  pulp  make  a  melon  water  ice  (No.  3603),  color  with  a  little  red  and 
yellow  carmine  to  imitate  the  orange  color  of  a  cantaloup  melon;  with  this  fill  the  rind  to  represent 
the  original  melon,  return  it  to  the  ice  and  freeze  for  two  hours.  When  well  congealed  it  can  be 
cut  in  slices;  make  the  seeds  of  almond  paste  (No.  3623).  A  macedoine  of  fresh  fruits  with  cham- 
pagne and  lemon  water  ice  can  also  be  substituted  for  the  melon  ice. 


1020 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Molded.  —  Melons  may  be  molded  in  lead  molds,  having  the  shape  of  a  melon,  making  the  rind 
either  of  vanilla  (No.  3458)  or  pistachio  (No.  3454)  and  the  center  of  orange  water  ice  (No.  3605) 


FIG. 


or  pineapple  water  ice  (No.  3606);   pack  in  ice  and  freeze  for  two  hours.     Unmold  and  dress 
either  on  a  water  socle  or  folded  napkin  and  on  top  of  the  melon  range  an  artificial  stalk  and  leaves. 

(3592),  DELICIOUS  WITH  HAZEL-NUTS  (Delicieux  aux  Noisettes), 

Lay  half  a  pound  of  hazel-nuts  taken  from  their  shells  on  a  baking  sheet,  roast  i  i  the  oven, 
peel  to  suppress  the  red  skins,  then  pound  with  two  gills  of  cream;  set  this  in  a  basin  with  twelve 
raw  egg-yolks  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  whip  all  together  and  dilute  with  a  pint  of  miik  which 
has  had  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  stick  infused  in  it.  Cook  the  preparation  without  boiling  till  it  covers 


FIG. 


the  spatula  well,  leave  stand  until  cold,  then  add  a  pint  of  fresh  cream;  freeze.  When  the  cream 
has  a  proper  consistency  mix  in  two  quarts  of  well-drained  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Pack  a 
two-quart  mold  on  ice,  fill  it  with  the  composition  and  freeze  for  two  hours;  unmold  on  a  folded 
napkin,  on  top  set  a  spun  sugar  ornament  and  surround  with  scooped-out  oranges  refilled  with  two 
differently  tinted  jellies,  white  and  red,  laid  in  streaks,  cooled  and  then  cut  in  six  or  eight  separate 
parts;  surround  the  base  with  small  strawberries  having  fresh  leaves  attached. 

(3593).  PEUIT  BASKET  WITH  DOVES  (Oorbeille  Jardiniere  aux  Colombes). 

Make  the  stand  representing  a  basket  in  two  parts  of  colored  water,  with  a  hole  in  the  center 

of  each;  when  this  stand  has  been  frozen  place  it  on  the  middle  of  an  oval  board  thirteen  inches 

long  by  nine  and  a  half  inches  wide,  having  a  half-inch  diameter  hole  bored  through  the  center; 

keep  the  whole  firmly  together  and  very  straight  with  a  nut-screw  five  to  six  inches  long,  screwing 


TOES. 


1021 


it  in  very  tight.  Have  two  cylindrical  molds  with  bottoms,  fill  them  with  water  and  freeze;  unmold 
and  place  them  on  the  center  line  at  one-third  of  the  length  of  the  stand;  on  each  of  these  columns 
set  a  dove,  imitating  the  eyes  with  a  dry  currant,  and  fasten  a  cherry-colored  ribbon  around  his 


FIG.  718. 

neck;  decorate  all  around  with  fruits  molded  in  various  ices  and  dipped  in  hot  water  to  unmold; 
put  them  in  the  freezing  box  or  cave  and  freeze;  afterward  color  them  lightly  and  stick  into  them 
stalks  with  their  respective  leaves.  All  these  ice  cream  pieces  should  be  dressed  at  the  last  moment 
and  then  served  at  a  dinner  table  or  sideboard  supper. 

(3594).  HEN  WITH  OHIOKS;  NEST  WITH  EGGS  (Poule  Avec  Poussins;  Nid  Garni  d'ffiufs). 

Prepare  a  sponge  cake  stand  (No.  3260)  or  one  of  wood  or  office  paste  (No.   143),  eleven 
and  a  quarter  inches  long  by  eight  and  a  quarter  inches  wide;  cover  it  with  coffee  or  chocolate  icing. 


FIG.  719. 

Make  a  nest  of  spun  sugar,  on  which  place  here  and  there  small  bits  of  angelica;  in  the  center  set 
the  stand.    Mold  the  hen  in  burnt  almond  ice  cream  (No.  3455),  spotted  over  with  coffee,  choc- 


FIG.  720. 

olate,  vanilla,  etc.,  to  imitate  the  different  shadings  of  the  bird.  Pack  it  in  ice  and  freeze  for  one 
hour;  unmold  and  dress  it  on  the  stand,  surrounded  with  small  chicks,  made  also  of  ice  cream,  the 
same  as  the  larger  one. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


For  the  nest  (Fig.  720),  prepare  a  round  nest,  the  same  as  Fig.  719,  only  smaller;  fill  with  small 
eggs  made  of  assorted  ice  cream. 


(3595).  PINEAPPLE  IN  SUEPEISE  AND  PINEAPPLE  MOLDED  (Ananas  en  Surprise  et  Ananas 

Monle"), 

In  Surprise. — Suppress  the  stalk  from  a  fine  pineapple;  empty  it  out  entirely  and  pack  it  in 
ice  for  one  hour.  With  the  inside  of  the  fruit  make  a  pineapple  water  ice  (No.  3606).  mixing  into  it 
a  salpicon  of  fresh  fruits;  fill  the  pineapple  and  freeze  it  once  more;  dress  on  a  napkin  and  surround 
with  small  molded  peaches  decorated  with  a  stalk  and  slightly  colored  over. 


FIG.  T21. 

Molded. — They  can  also  be  molded  in  a  pineapple-shaped  mold,  the  top  or  stalk  to  be  made  of 
pistachio  cream  (No.  3454)  and  the  pineapple  in  Andalusian  ice  cream  (No.  3446),  colored  a  reddish 
yellow.  Cut  the  best  pieces  from  a  small  pineapple  into  quarter-inch  squares;  steep  them  in 
kirsch  and  maraschino  for  one  hour,  add  pieces  of  biscuit  and  macaroons,  drain  and  with  this 
preparation  fill  the  inside  of  the  pineapple.  Imbed  in  ice  and  freeze  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  un- 
mold  and  dress  on  a  water  socle,  serving  at  once. 


(3596).  RABBIT  IN  SUEPEISE  (Lapin  en  Surprise). 

Rabbit  or  any  other  animal  in  surprise,  made  of  spun  sugar  and  serving  for  covering  ices  (Fig. 
722).     For  the  rabbit  or  hare  make  the  ice  in  a  half  melon-shaped  mold;  the  bear  and  rabbit  in  an 


iced  biscuit  mold  (Fig.  626).  These  molds  can  be  filled  with  puddings,  parfaits,  etc.,  either  with 
flavors  or  with  fruits;  pack  in  ice,  freeze  for  one  hour  for  each  quart,  unmold  and  dress;  lay 
on  top  either  a  rabbit,  hare  or  bear  of  spun  sugar  and  serve. 


ICES. 


1023 


;(3597).  SWAN  WITH  EEEDS  AND  EUSHES  (Le  Oygne  aux  Boseaux). 

Have  an  oval  bottom  made  of  office  paste  (No.  143)  or  wood,  half  an  inch  thick,  fifteen  inches 
long  and  eleven  wide;  glaze  it  with  royal  icing  (No.  101)  of  a  soft  green  color  and  place  around  an 
inch  and  a  half  from  the  border  a  band  of  pistachio  nougat  (No.  3622)  two  and  a  half  inches  high, 
on  top  of  this  a  platform  of  sugar  cooked  white  to  "crack"  (No.  171),  and  the  same  size  as  the  band; 


FIG.  723. 

garnish  around  the  stand  with  reeds,  rushes,  etc.,  made  of  pulled  sugar.  Mold  a  swan  with  out- 
stretched wings  and  neck  in  lemon  virgin  cream  (No.  3459),  the  under  part  of  the  wings  in  coffee 
(No.  3460)  and  the  body  in  vanilla  (No.  3458);  pack  it  in  ice  and  freeze  for  two  hours.  Unmoldand 
lay  this  swan  in  the  center  of  the  platform,  imitating  the  eyes  with  small  dry  currants.  This  dish 
can  be  garnished  all  around  with  flowers  made  of  ice  cream  placed  in  small  paper  cases. 

(3598).  THE  HELMET  (Le  Casque). 

The  helmet  shown  in  Fig.  724,   is  made  in  a  two-quart  tin  mold  filled  with  a    pudding. 
When  unmolded  decorate  it  with  halved  pistachios  and  cover  these  with  a  thin  layer  of  straw- 


FIG.  724. 


berry  ice  cream  (No.  3451).  The  crest  of  the  helmet  is  of  vanilla,  the  edge  resting  on  the  socle 
of  chocolate  and  the  whole  is  dressed  on  a  natural  water  socle.  The  feather  should  be  made  of 
spun  sugar. 


1024 


THE    EPICTJREAIST. 


(3599).  THE  WELL  (Le  runs;. 

Have  a  lead  mold  the  shape  of  a  well  and  fill  it  with  light  vanilla  ice  cream  (No.  3458) ;  this 
mold  should  have  an  inside  one  to  form  the  hollow  of  the  well;  freeze  for  an  hour,  tinmold  it  on  a 
water  socle  dressed  on  a  napkin  and  fill  the  inside  with  half  a  pound  of  rice,  blanched  and  cooked 


Fig.  725. 

in  a  light  twelve-degree  vanilla  syrup  (No.  3165);  drain  and  add  a  salpicon  of  apricots  cut  in  small 
sticks  and  shredded  pistachios;  mix  the  whole  into  strawberry  ice  cream  (No.  3451),  having  mixed 
into  it  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50)  flavored  with  a  little  maraschino;  the  ornament 
on  top  should  be  made  of  spun  sugar,  fastened  on  to  the  well  just  when  serving  (see  Fig.  725). 

(3600),  TUKBAN  WITH  PINEAPPLE  OK  STKAWBERKY  OK  SULTANA  (Turban  aux  Ananas  on 

Praises  ou  Sultane). 
Put  one  pint  of  apricot  pulp  in  a  vessel  with  two  gills  of  almond  milk  (No.  4)  and  one  gill  of 


FIG.  726. 


maraschino;  add  some  syrup  to  bring  the  preparation  to  twenty-two  degrees,  then  strain,  freeze  and 
mix  with  it  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream  (No.  50).  Place  mis  preparation  in  a  turban-shaped 
mold,  pack  in  ice  to  freeze  for  one  hour,  then  unmold  ana  decorate  around  the  center  with  some 


'  ICES.  1025 

well-pared,  ripe  pineapple  cut  in  four,  and  the  hard  center  core  suppressed;  then  cut  up  the  re- 
mainder in  slices,  lay  them  it  in  a  vessel  and  bestrew  with  sugar,  pouring  over  some  rum  so  that 
they  macerate  for  half  an  hour. 

Vanilla  Strateberry  Turban  can  be  made  by  mixing  in  the  same  quantity  of  whipped  cream 
(No.  50)  after  it  is  frozen;  unmold  and  garnish  the  center  with  fresh  strawberries  macerated  in 
kirsch,  maraschino  and  a  little  powdered  sugar.  The  turban  can  also  be  served  plain  or  else 
trimmed  with  a  sultana  of  spun  sugar. 

(3601).   WATER  ICES-HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  FINISH  THEM  (Glaces  a  1'Eau-Maniere  de 

les  Preparer  et  de  les  Finir). 

The  base  of  all  water  ices  is  the  pulp  or  juice  of  fruits,  with  sugar  syrup  prepared  beforehand 
at  thirty-two  degrees,  or  else  substitute  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  for  each  quart  of  water. 
The  syrup  gauge  (Fig.  167)  is  the  only  arbiter  for  ascertaining  the  proper  degree;  they  can  be 
prepared  from  fourteen  to  twenty-four  degrees.  At  eighteen  degrees  a  thin  ice  is  obtained  called 
granite.  Eighteen  to  nineteen  degrees  is  an  excellent  degree  for  water  ices  prepared  for  the  taste 
of  this  country,  although  in  some  climates  they  are  made  as  high  as  twenty-four  degrees.  At  this 
degree  very  fine  and  consistent  ices  are  formed,  but  they  are  objectionably  sweet  and  therefore  not, 
generally  liked,  so  that  water  ices  at  eighteen  to  twenty  degrees  are  considered  the  best  — 
eighteen  degrees  with  fruit  pulps  and  twenty  degrees  for  fruit  juices,  or  sometimes  twenty-two, 
according  to  the  acidity  of  the  fruit.  The  juice  of  three  lemons  make  about  a  gill;  for  this  quan- 
tity use  two  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water,  obtaining  a  quart  of  syrup  at 
thirty-degrees.  To  freeze  the  fruit  preparation  it  requires  two  freezers,  one  of  a  high  shape  and 
the  other  semi-spherical.  Before  freezing  the  mixture  in  the  semi-spherical  freezer  it  must  be 
packed  in  salted  ice  and  the  inside  wiped  out  neatly,  then  pour  in  about  a  gill  of  the  preparation 
to  try  its  consistency,  working  it  with  a  small  spatula,  and  if  found  to  be  sufficiently  congealed 
pour  in  about  two  quarts  to  freeze,  setting  the  semi-spherical  freezer  in  motion  and  detaching  at 
times  with  the  spatula  any  particles  that  may  adhere  to  the  sides.  As  soon  as  the  ice  attains  a 
proper  consistency  remove  and  lay  it  in  a  small,  long  sorbetiere  (freezer)  also  imbedded  in  salted  ice. 
The  ice  should  be  worked  vigorously  with  the  spatula  to  have  it  acquire  body,  then  imbed  it  once 
more,  letting  all  the  superfluous  water  run  out  of  the  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  pail,  adding  more 
salted  ice,  packing  it  down  with  a  stick;  cover  the  pail  with  a  lid  or  a  cloth  to  prevent  any  air  from 
entering  and  keep  it  thus  until  ready  for  use. 

(3602).  FRESH  FRUIT  WATER  ICES  (Glaces  a  1'Eau  aux  Fruits  Frais). 

Por  Peaches,  Apricots,  Nectarines. — Select  good  fresh  plucked  fruits,  yet  not  too  ripe;  split 
open,  suppress  the  stalks,  pith  and  skins;  cut  up  finely  and  bestrew  with  vanilla  sugar  to  hinder 
from  blackening,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  pulp  in  a  vessel  and  mix  in  a  pint  of 
thirty-two  degree  syrup  for  each  quart,  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  four  lemons  and  a  bit  of 
orange  peel.  Strain  this  preparation  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze  it.  As  soon  as  the  ice  con- 
geals remove  with  a  spoon  and  place  in  a  small,  long  freezer  packed  in  ice;  work  it  vigorously  for 
ten  minutes,  incorporating  slowly  a  pint  of  Italian  meringue  (No.  140)  for  each  quart  of  syrup,  and 
half  a  gill  of  kirsch  or  noyau;  work  it  again  ten  minutes  to  have  it  smooth. 

For  Cherries,  Pomegranates,  Currants  and  Barberries. — A  pint  of  fruit  pulp  for  one  quart  of 
syrup  and  one  gill  or  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  If  with  cherries,  crack  the  pips  to  extract  and 
crush  the  meat  and  make  the  syrup  of  twenty  degrees  strength.  For  currants  use  the  juice  of  two 
lemons;  color  with  vegetal  red,  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze. 

(3603).  GUANABANA,  MELON,  MEDLAR,  PEAR  OR  PLUM  WATER  ICE  (Glace  a  1'Eau  a  la 
Guanabane,  au  Melon,  aux  Nefles,  Poires  ou  Prunes). 

Select  fruits  that  are  ripe,  having  them  in  preference  a  little  too  hard  than  too  soft;  they  must 
be  fragrant  and  freshly  plucked.  Suppress  the  skins  or  peels  with  a  knife;  press  first  through  a 
sieve,  then  through  a  tammy;  put  the  puree  in  a  vessel,  allowing  for  each  quart  one  pint  of  cold 
syrup,  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  four  lemons  and  the  peel  of  half  an  orange  infused  in  a  gill  of 
syrup.  Stir  all  the  ingredients  well  together  and  bring  it  to  a  twenty  to  twenty-two  degree  syrup; 
strain  through  a  very  fine  Venice  or  silk  sieve  and  pour  into  a  semi-spherical  freezer:  allow  it  to 
congeal  without  ceasing  to  detach  with  a  large  spatula  every  particle  adhering  to  the  sides  of  the 
freezer.  As  soon  as  the  ice  is  all  congealed  remove  it  with  a  spoon  and  transfer  to  a  small,  long 


1036  TH^    EPICURE  AN. 

freezer  imbedded  in  salted  ice  to  have  it  acquire  plenty  of  body,  and  smooth  while  still  stirring; 
lastly  incorporate  three  tablespoonfuls  of  good  rum,  kirsch  or  prunelle,  mixed  with  a  little  of  the 
syrup  and  frozen  preparation,  being  careful  to  incorporate  it  little  by  little;  work  again  for  a  few 
moments,  freeze  once  more  and  serve. 

(3604).  LEMON  WATER  ICE  AND  GRAPE  FRUIT  ICE  (Glace  a  1'Eau  au    Citron  et  Glace  au 

Poncires). 

Pour  into  a  vessel  some  syrup  made  with  two  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  sugar  and  a  pint  of 
water  cooked  to  thirty-two  degrees;  cool  off,  then  add  two  gills  or  the  juice  of  six  lemons  and  the 
peel  of  four  of  the  finest  among  them  well  washed  and  wiped;  let  the  preparation  attain  twenty 
degrees  according  to  the  syrup  gauge  and  infuse  therein  the  peels,  leaving  them  for  two  hours; 
strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze. 

Another  Way. — Proportions:  Four  pounds  of  sugar,  three  gills  of  water,  the  peel  of  fifteen 

lemons  and  the  juice  of  twenty-five;   cook  to   twenty  degrees  of  the  syrup  gauge;   infuse  the 

peels  in  this  for  two  hours;  strain  the  whole  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze.  This  quantity  will 
produce  a  little  more  than  six  quarts. 

Grape  Fruit.— Prepare  this  ice  the  same  as  lemon  water  ice,  substituting  grape  fruit  for 
lemons. 

(3605).  ORANGE  WATER  IOE  OR  WITH  GELATINE  (Glace  a  l'Eau  a  1'Orange  et  a  la  Gelatine). 

Take  one  quart  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees,  five  gills  of  orange  juice,  the  peel  of  a  large 
orange  and  one  gill  of  lemon  juice.  Infuse  for  two  hours,  bring  it  to  eighteen  or  twenty  degrees 
of  the  syrup  gauge,  and  color  with  a  little  carmine;  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze. 

Another  Way. — Six  pounds  of  sugar,  four  quarts  of  water,  thirty  oranges,  using  the  peel  of  six- 
teen, and  the  juice  of  twelve  lemons.  Infuse  for  two  hours,  bring  to  twenty  degrees,  strain  through 
a  silk  sieve  and  freeze.  This  will  make  about  eight  quarts. 

With  Gelatine. — Have  one  quart  of  water,  one  pound  of  sugar,  the  peel  and  juice  of  two 
oranges,  the  juice  of  four  lemons,  a  sheet  of  gelatine  weighing  a  quarter  of  an  ounce,  previously 
dissolved  in  a  little  water,  then  strained  through  a  fine  sieve.  The  ice  may  be  flavored  with  ex- 
tract of  orange  and  the  lemon  replaced  by  citric  acid. 

(3606).  PINEAPPLE  WATER  ICE  (Glace  a  l'Eau  a  1'Ananas). 

Pineapple  can  be  prepared  in  two  ways,  eithel  grated  or  pounded  in  a  mortar  or  infused  in  a 
syrup. 

Infused  in  Syrup. — Boil  a  quart  of  thirty-two  degi'ee  syrup,  add  to  it  one  pound  of  peeled 
pineapple  cut  in  thin  slices,  also  the  peel  of  one  orange;  remove  from  the  fire,  cover  the  saucepan, 
and  leave  to  cool  in  the  syrup,  adding  one  gill  or  the  juice  of  three  lemons;  strain  forcibly,  either 
through  a  Venice  sieve  or  a  silken  one;  boil  the  mixture  until  it  reaches  twenty  degrees  of  the 
syrup  gauge  and  freeze. 

Another  way  is  to  place  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  vessel  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  one  quart 
of  grated  or  crushed  pineapple;  let  infuse  for  two  hours;  add  a  leaf  and  a  naif  of  isinglass  dissolved 
in  half  a  pint  of  water  acidulated  with  the  juice  of  eight  lemons  or  else  melted  citric  acid;  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze. 

Another  Way. — One  quart  of  grated  pineapple,  two  pounds  of  sugar,  two  quarts  of  water,  the 
juice  of  sixteen  lemons  or  five  gills.  Finish  the  same  as  water  ice  (No.  3601). 

(3607).  STRAWBERRY  OR  RASPBERRY  WATER  ICE  (Glace  a  l'Eau  aux  Praises  ou  aux  Fram- 

boises). 

Small  ripe  wild  berries  are  preferable  to  cultivated  ones  for  these  ices.  Put  one  quart  of 
strawberry  or  raspberry  pulp  in  a  basin,  and  dilute  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  syrup  at  thirty 
degrees;  add  a  little  vanilla,  the  peel  of  an  orange,  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  of  four  lemons; 
strain  through  a  silk  sieve.  The  syrup  should  be  from  twenty  to  twenty-two  degrees. 

Another  Way. — Take  eight  pounds  of  powdered  sugar,  two  quarts  of  fruit  pulp,  the  juice  of 
twenty  lemons  and  six  quarts  of  water;  color  to  a  light  red  with  vegetal  carmine.  Bring  it  to 
twenty  degrees  of  the  syrup  gauge,  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze. 


ICES.  1027 


ICED  DEINKS, 


(3608).  ICED  CHOCOLATE  (Chocolat  Glaofi). 

Dissolve  a  pound  of  sweet  chocolate  in  a  quart  of  water  with  half  a  bean  of  vanilla;  when  cold 
stir  in  a  quart  of  cream,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Another  way  is  to  take  a  pound  of  sweet  chocolate,  half  a  pint  of  water  and  half  a  vanilla 
bean;  when  the  chocolate  is  all  dissolved  and  cold  mix  into  it  three  pints  of  cream  and  a  gill  of 
thirty-two  degree  syrup;  strain  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  into  a  freezer  with  lightly  salted  ice 
around,  and  serve  in  glasses. 


(3609).  ICED  OOPPEE  (daft  Glaoft 

Black  Coffee. — Iced  coffee,  as  it  is  called  in  New  York,  is  simply  black  coffee  cooled  in  a  china 
freezer,  having  lightly  salted  ice  placed  around. 

Mixed  Coffee. — Mixed  coffee  is  prepared  the  same,  only  mixing  the  whole  of  the  following 
ingredients  together:  One  pint  of  milk,  one  gill  of  cream,  one  quart  of  black  coffee  and  one  gill  of 
syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  china  or  enameled  freezer  with  lightly  salted 
ice  around,  and  serve  when  the  coffee  is  exceedingly  cold. 

Brandy  Coffee. — One  quart  of  black  coffee,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  brandy;  to  be 
mixed  and  cooled  the  same  as  the  black  coffee. 

Iced  Coffee  in  Sherbet. — Have  one  quart  of  black  coffee  mixed  with  one  quart  of  cream  and 
twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  place  it  in  a  freezer  with  salted  ice  around,  detach  from  the  sides  as  fast 
as  the  ice  adheres,  and  when  sufficiently  cold  and  firm  serve  in  glasses. 


(3610).  GRAMOLATES  OE  GRANITE  WITH  ORANGE  (Gramolates  on  Granit    a  1'Orange), 

Put  in  a  vessel  one  quart  of  fifteen-degree  syrup,  the  juice  and  peels  of  three  oranges;  cover 
over  and  leave  infuse  for  one  hour;  add  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  a  little  orange  vegetal  car- 
mine; strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  freeze.  Peel  three  oranges  to  the  pulp,  remove  the  pulp  by 
passing  the  knife  near  each  section  and  lay  the  pieces  in  a  bowl  with  a  very  little  sugar  andkirsch; 
steep  for  half  an  hour  then  add  it  to  the  ice  and  serve  in  glasses. 


(3611).  GRANITE  IN  WATER  BOTTLES  WITH  CURRANTS,  CHERRIES,  POMEGRANATES, 
ETC  (Granits  en  Carafes  a  la  Groseille,  anx  Cerises,  Grenades,  etc). 

Granites  are  made  the  same  as  water  ices,  flavored  with  any  desired  fruits,  the  sole  difference 
being  that  they  must  not  be  worked  and  must  only  attain  fourteen  degrees  of  the  saccharometer; 
when  the  composition  is  ready  pour  it  in  water  bottles  having  very  wide  necks;  pack  these  in  ice 
with  half  as  much  salt  as  for  ordinary  ices.  Detach  from  the  sides  with  a  small  boxwood  spatula. 
Serve  in  the  same  decanters  or  else  in  glasses. 


(3612).  GRAPE  FRUITS  A  LA  MADISON  (Poncires  a  la  Madison). 

The  grape  fruit  is  a  species  of  large  yellow  orange,  resembling  the  Florida  orange;  it  is  slightly 
bitter.  Select  those  that  are  not  too  large,  cut  them  across  in  two,  empty  the  insides,  keeping  it 
all  in  a  vessel,  and  notch  the  edges  of  the  peel  in  points;  remove  the  small  rounds  from  the  center 
and  then  place  them  to  cool  in  a  freezing-box.  Prepare  a  mixture  the  same  as  orange  punch, 
Russian  style  (No.  3613),  the  only  difference  to  observe  being  that  all  the  fruit  juice  must  be 
used;  bring  to  twelve  degrees  and  let  cool  to  a  granite  (No.  3611),  then  serve  in  the  prepared  peels. 


1028 


THE  EPICUREAN. 


(3613).  ORANGE  PUNCH,  RUSSIAN  STYLE-UNFROZEN  COLD  DRINK  (Punch  Orange  a  la 

Russe— Boisson  Froide  non  Grele~e). 

Slit  open  with  a  tin  tube  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  the  top  of  eight  oranges  on  the  side 
opposite  to  the  stalk,  empty  them  out  entirely,  wipe  neatly  and  set  them  in  low  paper  cases  to  keep 
them  level.  On  the  round  piece  removed  from  the  orange  fasten  two  long 
straws,  tying  them  together  with  a  ribbon  passed  through  two  holes.  Put 
these  oranges  for  at  least  two  hours  beforehand  in  a  box  and  pack  with  ice 
and  very  little  salt,  not  to  freeze  the  rinds.  Place  in  a  freezer  one  pint  of 
orange  juice  obtained  from  the  pulp  of  the  emptied  oranges  and  strained 
through  a  fine  strainer,  add  to  it  two  gills  of  water,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  a 
gill  of  rum,  half  a  gill  of  kirsch,  the  peel  of  two  oranges  and  the  juice  of 
four  lemons;  flavor  it  properly,  either  by  adding  or  removing  any  of  the 
ingredients;  strain  the  whole  through  a  very  fine  silk  sieve  and  freeze  with  ice  and  a 
little  salt.  Just  when  ready  to  serve  fill  the  oranges  and  serve  them  at  once.  The  straws  are  used 
for  drinking  the  contents  of  the  orange. 


Fig.  727. 


(Oonfiserie). 


(3614).  OENTEE  PIECES-PYRAMIDS  (Pieces  Months), 

Table  ornaments  called  pyramids  are  used  for  replacing  the  cold  pieces  in  the  third  service  for 
French  dinners.  They  are  placed  on  the  table  at  the  beginning  and  at  the  dessert  for  a  Russian 
dinner.  The  principal  object  is  to  flatter  the  eye  of  the  guests  by  their  regularity,  their  smoothness 
and  their  finish.  To  attain  this  end  it  is  necessary  that  the  subjects  be  chosen  according  to  the 
circumstances  in  which  the  dinner  is  offered.  Special  care  must  be  taken  that  they  be  faultlessly 
executed.  The  pieces  can  be  selected  from  a  number  of  designs,  such  as:  Swiss  cottages,  temples, 
pavilions,  towers,  pagodas,  mosques,  fortresses,  hermitages,  belvederes,  cabins,  cascades,  houses, 
fountains,  ruins,  rotundas  or  tents;  then  there  are  lyres,  harps,  helmets,  boats,  cornucopias,  vases, 
baskets,  hampers,  beehives,  trophies  both  military  and  musical,  fine  arts,  agriculture,  navigation, 
commerce,  science,  etc.  A  very  prolific  branch  almost  entirely  overlooked  is  a  figure  representing 
some  well-known  character.  Then  come  animals,  trees  and  flowers,  which  offer  an  infinite  number 
of  beautiful  subjects.  Few  workmen  are  capable  of  making  these  different  styles  of  pieces, 
their  talent  being  limited,  for  their  use  is  confined  to  a  very  small  number  of  houses.  There- 
fore it  would  be  most  useful  if  the  workman  engaged  in  making  these  pieces  confine  himself 
solely  to  figures,  as  this  art  is  certain  to  become  fashionable  in  the  near  future.  Authors  of  the  best 
works  on  cooking  and  pastry  only  casually  mention  these  ornamental  pieces.  The  workman  while 
executing  them  must  give  his  entire  attention  and  talent,  for  the  persons  before  whom  they  are 
generally  placed  are  accustomed  to  works  of  art.  In  case  he  finds  it  impossible  to  produce  a 
perfect  figure,  then  he  had  better  devote  himself  to  other  kinds  of  work  in  which  perfection  need 
not  be  so  scrupulously  followed;  for,  after  all,  these  pieces  only  serve  to  decorate  one  dinner,  and 
consequently  are  very  rarely  preserved.  Still,  whatever  style  of  work  he  may  see  fit  to  undertake, 
let  him  endeavor  to  excel  and  attain  the  pinnacle  of  perfection.  A  well-executed  idea  has  more 
merit  than  a  well-finished,  but  badly  conceived  one.  The  quantity  of  figures  and  subjects  to  select 
from  are  numerous.  First,  we  have  mythology;  what  a  fertile  theme — here  a  Cupid  on  a  shell 
drawn  by  swans;  Neptune  among  the  tritons  and  Naiads;  Bacchus;  the  Centaurs;  the  Muses;  scenes 
from  Iliad  and  Odyssey !  How  delightfully  ingenuous  would  be  a  group  representing  Venus  teach- 
ing Cupid  the  art  of  dancing:  the  young  one  in  the  act  and  the  mother  directing  his  steps;  Apollo 
playing  the  flute  and  Jupiter  benignly  watching  the  scene,  surrounded  by  other  gods  and  goddesses. 
Then  we  have  the  history  of  the  flood:  Noah  standing  at  the  door  of  the  Ark  contemplating  the 
ingress  of  all  the  animals  into  it.  We  can  choose  from  the  customs  of  different  ancient  and  modern 
nations:  the  Normandy  peasants  dancing  opposite  to  each  other;  a  Tyrolian  descending  a  rock 
carrying  on  his  back  the  carcass  of  a  chamois ;  an  American  Indian  dressed  in  war  garb 
burying  the  tomahawk;  or  a  Tartar  on  horseback.  Then  there  are  scenes  in  ordinary  life. 
We  can  also  choose  from  animated  nature:  birds,  animals,  the  fox  ready  to  attack  an  innocent 
rabbit,  fish,  swans  on  a  lake  surrounded  by  their  families,  birds  pecking  their  young,  and  many 
other  interesting  subjects  too  numerous  to  mention. 


(3615).  OENTEE  PIECES}  EXPLANATION  OF  VARIOUS  FIGURES  (Pieces  Mont&s;  Explication 

des  Differents  Sujets). 

These  figures  as  far  as  the  letter  I  can  be  used  for  all  pyramids,  either  of  cooked,  poured  or 
spun  sugar  or  of  gum  paste;  adjust  four  to  six  pieces  equally  distant,  and  fasten  them  together; 
fill  the  intersections  with  arabesques,  as  in  G  and  H,  and  surmount  the  whole  with  an  ornament  or 
bunch  of  flowers  made  of  web  sugar,  the  same  as  shown  on  piece  K.  On  the  projections  of  piece 
K,  LLL  rings  of  poured  sugar  can  be  placed,  filling  the  centers  with  iced  fruits;  in  the  empty 
spaces  can  also  be  ranged  sticks  of  poured  sugar  covered  with  fruits  or  small  cakes,  bonbons, 
almond  paste,  etc.  The  figures  F  and  A  show  the  effect  that  can  be  produced  by  using  simpler 
methods.  A  is  merely  decorated  with  small  arabesques,  shown  in  I,  in  half  their  natural  size; 

(1029) 


1030 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


FIG.  730 


FIG.  729  J. 


FIG.  731. 


CONFECTIONERY. 


1031 


on  F  small  sticks  are  fastened  one  to  the  other.  Fig.  728  is  made  of  nougat;  the  frog  to  be  of  green 
pistachio  nougat  molded  in  a  varnished  and  oiled  plaster  mold;  the  rushes  are  green  and  brown. 
Fig.  730  represents  a  cactus  on  a  two-shelved  socle  made  of  Parisian  nougat;  the  flower  pot  is  of 
nougat  containing  chopped  almonds  and  chocolate;  the  plant  is  of  green  pistachio  nougat  to  imi- 
tate the  cactus.  The  lighthouse  (Fig.  731)  is  of  gum  paste;  the  chimney  on  top  of  the  house,  from 
whence  arises  the  smoke,  is  imitated  in  wadding;  the  branches  of  the  tree  of  very  fine  wire  covered 
with  finely  cut  paper  to  represent  the  leaves,  and  the  trunk  to  be  of  gum  paste  or  fine  wire  covered 
with  silk.  The  staircase  and  the  boat  are  of  gum  paste;  the  boat  lies  on  a  piece  of  looking  glass. 
The  J  and  M  are  meant  for  forming  socles  for  raising  the  low  pieces,  such  as  the  frog,  etc.  J  is 
made  in  three  pieces  that  can  be  used  independently,  so  as  to  make  the  socle  either  higher  or  lower. 

(3616).  CENTER  PIECES  OF  COOKED  SUGAR  (Pieces  Monties  en  Sucre  Ouit). 
For  cooked  sugar  see  Elementary  Methods  (No.  171).     It  is  always  necessary  to  have  sugar 
cooked  in  advance  so  that  each  time  some  is  wanted  it  will  not  have  to  be  prepared,  especially  when 

only  a  little  is  to  be  used  at  a  time.  Have  some  sugar  cooked  to 
"large  crack"  (No.  171);  when  it  reaches  three  hundred  and  thirty 
degrees  add  to  it  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a 
lemon  and  leave  cook  to  three  hundred  and 
fifty  degrees,  then  pour  it  hastily  on  a 
FIG.  732.  thick  marble  sufficiently  large  to  allow  it 

to  cool,   then  detach  and  set  it  away  in 

hermetically  closed  tin  boxes.  To  make  web  or  spun  sugar,  first  melt 
it  slowly  in  a  small  copper  pan,  a  little  at  a  time,  being 
careful  it  does  not  change  color.  This  sugar  is  used  for 
spinning  sultanas,  for  making  ornaments  in  spun  sugar, 
or  it  can  be  used  for  Parisian  nougat  and  even  for  candy- 
ing fruits,  reducing  its  degree  by  introducing  a  little  syrup 
at  thirty-two  degrees  or  else  some  glucose.  For  spun 
sugar  pieces  lightly  trace  with  a  pencil  on  an  unpolished 
and  very  lightly  oiled  marble  the  outlines  of  the  design 
needed  for  reproduction;  cover  this  tracing  with  a  thread 
of  firm  royal  icing,  either  large  or  small  according  to  the 
size  of  the  piece.  Fill  in  between  these  threads  of  icing 
with  melted  sugar,  white  or  colored;  detach  the  piece 
from  the  marble  before  it  is  thoroughly  cold,  as  then 
they  are  apt  to  break  easily.  Instead  of  using  royal 
icing  the  tracing  can  be  outlined  with  a  thread  of  spin- 
ning sugar  of  a  different  color  from  that  used  in  the 
inside;  put  all  the  pieces  together,  attaching  them  in  four, 
six,  or  eight,  and  ornament  them  here  and  there,  when 
fastened,  according  to  taste,  with  candied  fruits,  bonbons, 

or  else  small  cakes,  almond  paste,  etc. ;  decorate  with  flowers  or  leaves  made  of 
FIG.  733.  sugar  molded  in  oiled  tin  molds,  dipped  in  sugar  cooked  to  "crack,"  lightly  cooled 
in  its  pan,  then  hung  by  a  wire  to  hooks  slightly  apart  so  they  cannot  touch  one 
another.  Unmold  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  cool  and  place  on  grates  until  ready  for  use.  Sheaves 
can  also  be  made  (an  imitation  of  sheaves  of  rye  or  wheat)  in  very  finely  drawn  sugar,  fastened 
with  an  imitation  band  prepared  with  the  same  sugar.  These  sheaves  may  be  colored  or  white, 
according  to  the  taste;  the  sugar  should  be  cooked  to  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  degrees. 
Pieces  may  also  be  decorated  with  pulled  sugar  flowers. 

(3617).  TO  KEEP  SUBJECTS  OR  PIECES  (Pour  Conserver  les  Sujets  ou  Pieces  Monties). 

Pyramids  made  of  spun  sugar  or  nougat  can  be  kept  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation  by 
standing  them  under  a  plain  glass  globe  to  protect  them  from  the  action  of  the  air.  But  should  it 
be  necessary  to  keep  them  for  several  days,  then  they  must  certainly  be  placed  under  a  glass  globe 
fitting  on  to  a  hollow  wooden  stand  opening  on  the  top,  having  its  surface  bored  with  holes  and 
the  empty  space  filled  in  with  bits  of  quicklime.  The  lime  has  the  faculty  of  absorbing  all 
the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere;  in  this  way  sugar  can  be  kept  intact  for  an  indefinite  period, 
especially  in  winter  time  and  damp  weather.  Pieces  made  of  royal  icing  or  gum  paste  can  also  be 
kept  for  a  long  while  if  the  above  method  be  followed. 


1032 


THE 


(3618),  FLOWEES  OF  FULLED  SUGAK  (Fleurs  en  Sucre  Tire). 

Among  the  various  objects  that  can  be  made  of  pulled  sugar  must  be  mentioned  flowers  and 
all  kinds  of  leaves,  which  with  a  little  taste  and  skill  can  be  beautifully  imitated,  and  if  this  branch 


FIG.  735. 


FIG.  736. 


FIG.  737. 


of  decoration  is  studied  it  can  become  one  of  artistic  merit.     At  the  beginning  learners  should  not 
undertake  the  task  of  making  difficult  flowers,  such  as  roses,  dahlias,  or  other    flowers  having 
numerous  petals,  but  must  be  satisfied  with  more  simple  ones,  such 
as  apple  blossoms,  wild  roses,  poppies,  pansies,  etc. 

Cook  the  sugar  to  "large  crack  "(No.  171),  or  335  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  being  careful  to  have  it  very  clear,  transparent  and 
grainless.  Let  it  get  cold  on  a  marble  slab.  Melt  a  pound  of  this 
sugar  in  a  copper  pan,  keeping  it  as  white  as  possible.  Pour  a 
tablespoonful  of  the  syrup  on  the  marble,  and  add  to  it  the  color- 
ing matter  for  the  intended  flowers;  pound  the  color  should  it  be 
dry;  then  pour  over  the  melted  sugar,  and  work  the  whole  together 

with  a  spatula,  and  afterward  with 
the  hand  until  it  becomes  smooth  and 
tractable.  Put  this  pulled  sugar  into 
a  mold,  or  on  a  lightly  oiled  dish,  and 
then  in  a  heater  which  should  regis- 
ter 170  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

It  will  be  enough  for  us  to  explain 
the  making  of  just  a  few  kinds  of 
flowers,  in  order  that  the  work  for  all 
others  may  be  understood.  For  in- 
stance, we  will  begin  with  a  cluster 
of  apple  blossoms:  Take  from  the 
heater  a  small  quantity  of  very  white 
pulled  sugar,  and  dipping  the  finger  in 
corn  starch  to  prevent  them  sticking  to  the  sugar  make  some  petals  as  shown  in  Fig.  735,  pressing 

it  down  between  the  thumb  and 
first  finger  as  thinly  as  possible,  and 
detaching  it  with  a  pair  of  scissors 
as  fast  and  as  soon  as  it  is  pressed  into 
shape,  varying  the  shapes  BO  that 
when  finished  they  are  not  all  alike. 
Use  the  flame  of  a  small  gas  stove 
to  keep  the  sugar  soft;  now  heat 
the  bottom  of  each  petal  over  this 
gas  flame,  and  adjust  five  of  them 
togther  to  form  each  separate  flower 
(Fig.  736).  Make  also  buds  and 
partly  opened  flowers.  Color  a  little 
gum  paste  a  bright  yellow  with  a 
small  wooden  or  bone  tool,  and  form  the  inside.  Paint  the  edges  of  the  petals  a  pale  pinkj 


FIG.  738. 


FIG.  739. 


FIG.  740. 


FIG.  741. 


CONFECTIONERY.  1033 

also  the  buds,  being  careful  to  use  the  coloring  matter  as  dry  as  possible.  Now  color  a  little  of  the 
pulled  sugar  green  and  form  the  leaves  the  same  way  as  the  flowers,  afterward  pressing  them  on  a 
lightly  oiled  plaster  mold  to  mark  the  veins  (Fig.  740,  No.  3).  Melt  all  the  fragments  of  the  various 
colored  pulled  sugars,  and  add  to  it  some  cocoa,  and  with  it  coat  various  lengths  of  wire;  twist 
them  to  resemble  branches  of  trees,  and  stick  them  together  (Fig.  740,  No.  4),  and  on  it  mount  the 
flowers  and  buds  (Fig.  741).  Proceed  exactly  the  same  for  all  petal  flowers,  such  as  leaves,  roses, 
violets,  tulips,  poppies  and  pansies  (see  Fig.  737,  No.  7,  for  the  pansies). 

The  bunch  of  apple  blossoms,  if  well  made,  is  most  natural.  For  calla  lilies  the  operation  is 
entirely  different.  Leave  the  sugar,  pulled  very  white,  in  the  heater  until  it  runs  slightly.  The 
principal  object  is  to  work  it  quickly.  Take  a  small  piece  from  the  heater,  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
and  roll  it  with  the  rolling-pin  on  marble  as  thinly  as  possible,  always  using  corn  starch  for  the 
roller  and  fingers.  Cut  the  sugar  rapidly  with  the  scissors  into  pieces  the  shape  of  leaves,  having 
the  bottom  part  pulled  out  lengthways;  heating  these  over  the  gas,  should  the  sugar  get  too  cold 
(Fig.  738,  No.  8),  bend  them  into  cornets  (Fig.  738,  No.  9),  always  while  heating,  and  fold  the 
edges  outward  (Fig.  738,  No.  10).  Color  a  little  sugar  a  bright  yellow,  and  make  the  inside  of  the 
flower.  Coat  it  lightly  with  gum  arable,  and  roll  it  in  powdered  sugar  that  has  already  been  tinted 
to  a  fine  yellow. 

Leaves  are  made  the  same  way;  roll  them  out  with  the  roller,  cut  them  into  long  shapes,  and 
press  on  a  plaster  mold  to  mark  the  veins. 

Mount  the  flowers  and  leaves  on  stalks  of  wire  covered  with  green  sugar  (Fig.  739). 

The  principal  thing  to  be  observed  when  making  any  object,  either  of  sugar  or  nougat,  is  to 
perform  the  work  as  speedily  as  possible,  for  the  less  the  pulled  sugar  is  heated  at  the  gas  flame  the 
more  beautiful  and  brilliant  it  will  remain,  and  its  glossy  luster  will  not  be  marred. 

Satinated  Pulled  Sugar.— Place  three  and  a  half  pounds  of  lump  sugar  in  an  untinned  copper 
pan  and  moistening  with  one  quart  of  lukewarm  water,  leave  soak  for  a  few  moments.  Cook  it 
on  a  brisk  fire,  skim  and  wash  the  same  as  for  caramel  and  after  a  few  boils  add  a  heaping  coffee- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Let  the  sugar  attain  three  hundred  degrees,  then  pour  it  on  to  a  very 
cold,  slightly  oiled  marble.  When  sufficiently  cold  to  allow  it  to  be  handled  mass  it  all  together 
and  pull  it  slowly,  then  mass  again  with  the  palm  of  the  hand;  pull  it  again  a  little,  just  sufficient 
to  give  it  a  clouded  appearance.  Put  it  in  the  heater  and  use  small  quantities,  according  to  the 
work  to  be  done,  pulling  and  massing  to  givp  it  a  brilliant  surface.  Never  use  this  sugar  when 
too  hot,  on  the  contrary  work  it  as  cold  as  possible  so  that  it  will  not  lose  its  brilliancy.  Flowers, 
leaves,  baskets,  etc.,  can  be  made  with  satinated  sugar. 

(3619),  MATERIALS  FOR  MAKING  EASY  PIECES  (Matieres  Pour  Faire  les  Pieces  Faciles). 

Macaroons,  candied  fruits,  small  cakes,  bonbons,  meringues  or  marchpanes  fastened  together 
and  applied  on  conical-shaped  molds,  having  their  base  measuring  eight  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  and 
ending  in  a  point  one  inch  in  diameter;  this  style  of  piece  is  not  much  used  nowadays  except  in 
ordinary  balls  or  banquets.  It  is  gum  paste,  nougat,  royal  icing  and  cooked  sugar  that  the  prettiest 
pieces  are  made  of,  and  in  these  the  true  artist  can  be  readily  distinguished. 

(3620).  IMITATION  OP  NATURAL  GREEN  ALMONDS  (Imitation  d'Amandes  Vertes  Naturelles). 
Prepare  a  cooked  almond  paste  the  same  as  explained  in  the  Elementary  Methods  (No.  125); 
davor  it  with  orange  flower  water  and  tinge  it  to  alight  green  color.  Mold  this  paste  into  medium- 
sized  olive  shapes,  split  them  lengthwise  through  the  center  and  in  the  crack  lay  a  fine  white 
almond;  mold  and  work  the  paste  to  have  it  assume  the  form  of  a  natural  green  almond,  then  lay 
them  as  fast  as  done  on  a  wire  sieve  and  place  in  the  heater  to  dry.  When  finished  leave  to 
get  cold  and  glaze  over  with  sugar  cooked  to  "  crack  "  (No.  171). 

(3621),  BROWN  NOUGAT  FOR  CENTER  PIECES  (Nougat  Bran  Pour  Pieces  Monte'esX 
Put  into  a  copper  pan  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon; 
melt  the  sugar  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  entirely  dissolved  stir  in  one  pound  of  almonds,  either 
chopped  or  slightly  shredded;  these  are  to  be  heated  at  the  oven  door,  but  great  care  must  be  paid 
that  the  almonds  be  not  too  hot,  for  should  the  sugar  be  slightly  colored  then  the  nougat  would 
become  too  brown;  should  the  almonds  be  too  hot  then  have  the  sugar  simply  melted,  and  again, 
if  the  sugar  be  very  hot,  it  is  unnecessary  to  heat  them  only  slightly.  The  best  nougat  for  eating 
is  made  with  melted  sugar,  but  for  elaborate  panel  pieces  requiring  much  cutting  it  is  better  to  use 


1034  THE    EPICUREAN. 

cooked  sugar,  the  same  as  used  for  spinning  work,  without  diluting  with  syrup.  Almonds  are  used 
in  the  proportion  of  six  to  eight  ounces  for  every  pound  of  sugar.  This  nougat  is  certainly  not  so 
good  for  eating  as  the  preceding,  but  it  is  much  easier  to  work,  for  it  cools  with  less  rapidity  and 
bends  with  more  facility.  It  can  be  molded  in  arabesque  molds  made  of  plaster,  or  else  pressed 
on  to  tin  leaves  to  form  moldings  around  different  sized  rings,  or  else  around  sticks  to  form  columns. 
The  nougat  is  cut  out  when  in  a  flat  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  or  even  thinner,  with 
cardboard  designs  applied  on,  then  cut  avay  all  around;  these  cardboards  should  be  cut  out 
beforehand  into  any  shapes,  such  as  rounds,  ovals,  squares,  oblongs,  triangles,  etc. 

(3622),  PAEISIAN,  WHITE  AND  PISTACHIO  NOUGAT  (Nougat  Parisien,  Blanc  et  aux 

Pistaches). 

Parisian. — This  nougat  is  made  of  hulled  almonds  split  lengthwise  and  dried  in  a  hot  closet. 
After  dipping  them  in  melted  cooked  sugar  apply  them  in  a  large  biscuit  mold  slightly  oiled,  the 
flat  side  of  the  almond  lying  against  the  inside  of  the  mold.  If  a  cylinder  mold  is  used,  eight 
inches  high  by  six  in  diameter,  dip  the  almonds  in  the  melted  sugar  and  then  take  them 
up  one  by  one  with  a  larding  needle  and  range  them  on  their  flat  side  in  a  double  reversed 
wreath. 

White  Nougat. — White  nougat  is  made  of  almonds  split  in  two  through  their  thickness  and 
warmed  in  a  heater.  Melt  in  an  untinned  copper  pan  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice;  melt  this  sugar  without  coloring  and  when  well  dissolved  mix  in  the 
halved  almonds.  Mold  in  a  plain  cylindrical  mold,  cut  off  even  with  the  top,  and  when  cold  un- 
mold  on  a  baking  sheet  and  decorate  either  with  candied  fruits  or  spun  sugar. 

Pistachio  Nougat. — Have  a  pound  of  peeled  and  very  dry  pistachio  nuts,  leave  them  whole  and 
warm  in  a  heater.  Melt  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  on  a  slow  fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice;  finish  the  same  as  the  white.  Roll  both  the  white  and  pistachio  nougat  to  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick  and  cut  into  inch  and  a  quarter  bands.  This  nougat  is  to  be  molded  in  plain  and  almost 
straight  timbale  molds,  having  just  sufficient  flare  to  allow  the  nougat  to  be  unmolded;  garnish  the 
bottom  of  the  mold  with  a  round  of  pink  nougat,  (white  nougat  slightly  colored  with  carmine); 
adjust  the  bands  on  the  bias,  alternating  the  white,  and  fasten  them  on  the  inside  with  bits  of 
nougat  dipped  in  sugar.  These  nougats  are  ornamented  with  fanciful  designs  of  spun  sugar. 
On  top  place  a  cupola  of  spun  sugar  and  over  an  aigrette  of  web  sugar,  or  any  other  tasteful  deco- 
ration. Nougat  is  also  made  of  hazel-nuts,  common  nuts,  peanuts,  Brazil  nuts  or  butter-nuts;  in 
fact  with  all  kinds  of  almonds,  and  finished  as  explained  for  the  others. 

(3623).  ALMOND  PASTE  CANDIED  (Pate  d'Amandes  an  Candi), 

Shell  and  peel  fourteen  ounces  of  sweet  almonds;  leave  to  soak  in  fresh  water  for  three  horn's, 
then  pound  to  a  pulp  with  a  little  water  and  kirsch,  half  of  each,  just  sufficient  to  moisten  the 
almonds  so  they  do  not  oil.  Cook  a  pound  of  sugar  to  "  crack  "  (No.  171),  in  a  round  bottom  sugar 
pan,  mix  the  almonds  in  with  the  sugar  and  dry  them  for  a  few  moments  over  a  slow  fire. 

If  for  chocolate  almond  paste  add  a  little  grated  chocolate  or  else  partly  dissolved  chocolate. 
"White  almond  paste  is  colored  with  vegetal  colorings  (No.  172).  Roll  this  paste  to  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  it  up  in  small  fanciful  patterns;  dry  them  in  the  heater  and  when 
sufficiently  dry  put  them  to  candy  (No.  3640) ;  they  can  be  flavored  with  vanilla  or  any  other 
flavoring. 

(3624).  GUM  PASTE  (Pastillage.) 

This  is  the  manner  of  preparing  gum  paste  used  for  various  purposes:  Have  half  a  pound 
of  very  white  Turkey  gum  tragacanth  either  in  a  glass  vessel  or  a  glazed  one;  wet  the  gum  just 
sufficiently  to  have  it  covered,  then  close  the  vessel  and  leave  it  at  least  twelve  hours  or  more. 
"When  the  gum  is  quite  soft  and  every  hard  particle  disappears  under  the  pressure  of  the  finger 
put  the  gum  in  a  heavy  new  towel;  roll  the  two  ends  of  this  around  two  strong  sticks  and  then 
twist  each  forcibly  in  a  contrary  direction  until  all  the  gum  has  passed  through;  lay  it  on  a 
clean  marble  and  work  with  the  hand,  incorporating  half  a  pound  of  icing  sugar  sifted  through  a 
fine  sieve,  using  more  if  the  gum  can  absorb  a  larger  quantity.  Should  the  gum  paste  have  too 
much  consistence  and  recede  while  working,  add  a  little  water  and  sugar.  (It  is  always 
preferable  to  have  gum  paste  prepared  the  day  before.)  When  it  is  required  for  making  subjects, 
figures,  dressing,  draping,  etc.,  or  any  other  object  that  requires  much  manipulation,  put  a  third 


CONFECTIONERY.  1035 

less  sugar  to  the  above  and  replace  it  by  corn  starch.  Should  the  gum  paste  now  split  it  will  be 
the  result  of  too  much  body,  therefore  add  a  little  water,  sugar,  corn  starch,  etc.  If  hard  lumps  be 
found  in  the  gum  tragacanth  this  is  caused  from  it  not  being  sufficiently  or  quickly  worked 
with  the  sugar.  For  gum  paste  ornaments  and  architectural  designs  ordinary  gum  paste  must 
be  used — all  sugar  and  no  starch  (only  gum,  icing  sugar  and  water).  Put  in  as  much  icing 
sugar  as  the  gum  can  absorb  without  having  too  much,  otherwise  it  will  be  impossible  to  work  the 
paste.  Should  the  edges  of  the  pieces  that  have  been  cut  out  rise  up,  it  is  because  the  paste  has 
too  much  body,  therefore  add  to  it  a  little  ordinary  gum  paste,  icing  sugar  and  water.  There  must 
be  no  contraction  whatever;  the  pieces  once  cut  must  remain  as  they  are;  dry  them  in  the  air, 
being  careful  that  no  dust  settles  on  them  and  avoid  any  strong  draught.  With  these  cut-out 
pieces  of  gum  paste  pyramids  are  prepared,  using  cardboard  models  prepared  in  advance.  They 
can  be  kept  when  very  dry,  wrapping  them  up  carefully  and  placing  them  on  edge  between  sheets 
of  tissue  paper  and  putting  the  pieces  for  each  pyramid  in  a  box  to  be  kept  in  a  dry  place.  When 
required  for  use  fasten  all  the  pieces  of  gum  paste  together  with  gum  paste  dissolved  in  water, 
having  it  liquid  enough  to  force  through  a  cornet,  or  else  use  royal  icing.  The  paste  can  be  colored 
with  vegetal  colorings,  or  gold,  bronze  or  silver  impalpable  powders,  after  exposing  the  objects 
a  few  moments  to  steam.  The  gum  paste  may  also  be  varnished  with  a  varnish  prepared  as 
follows:  Put  a  coffeespoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  into  a  pint  of  milk;  set  it  in  a  hot  place  and  when 
the  milk  has  soured  filter  and  add  four  ounces  of  pulverized  gum  arabic,  four  ounces  of  spirits  of 
wine  and  one  small  dissolved  gelatine  leaf;  pour  the  whole  into  a  bottle  and  stand  it  in  a  hot  place 
for  a  few  hours,  then  strain  thi*ough  a  fine  sieve  and  keep  well  corked  in  a  cool  spot. 


(3625).  MALAGA  KAISINS  STUFPED  AND  GLAZED  (Eaisins  de  Malaga  Farcis  et  GlaceY; 

Split  some  fine  Malaga  raisins  in  two  without  separating  the  parts;  remove  the  seeds  and  stuff 
one-third  with  a  half-inch  ball  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  colored  white,  another  third  with  the  same 
paste  colored  pink  and  the  remaining  third  of  almond  paste  with  pistachios  (No.  128);  all  these  pastes 
to  be  prepared  with  cooked  sugar  (No.  3616);  roll  them  into  olive  shapes,  leaving  the  almond  or 
pistachio  paste  show  through  the  opening,  and  lay  them  at  once  on  a  wire  sieve,  then  place  in  the 
heater  to  let  get  dry  and  glaze  with  sugar  cooked  to  "  crack  "  (No.  171). 


(3626).  TO  SPIN  SUGAR  BY  THROWING  (Pour  Tiler  le  Sucre  a  la  Jet&X 
First  have  a  spinner  constructed  as  follows:  On  the  entire  surface  of  a  round  of  sheet  iron  five 
Inches  in  diameter  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  are  to  be  riveted  wire  pegs  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
in  diameter  and  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  at  three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart  from  each 
other.  A  solid  handle  is  fastened  to  the  spinner.  Cook  in  a  copper  pan  two  or  three  pounds  of 
sugar  to  "  large  crack"  (No.  171)  or  three  hundred  degrees  Fahrenheit.  As  soon  as  done 
remove  from  the  fire.  Place  several  clean  and  oiled  baking  sheets  on  the  floor.  With  the 
left  hand  take  a  small  stick  and  hold  it  horizontally  to  the  height  of  the  chest  or  else  lay  it  project- 
ing over  the  edge  of  a  table;  with  the  right  hand  plunge  the  spinner  into  the  sugar,  take  it  out  and 
drain  off  all  the  superfluous  sugar;  then,  moving  the  instrument  vigorously  backward  and  forward 
over  the  small  stick  until  all  the  sugar  has  run  off  in  threads,  redip  the  spinner  into  the  sugar  and 
begin  the  same  movement  again,  continuing  until  all  the  sugar  is  spun.  In  case  there  be  no  spinner 
handy,  a  spoon  can  be  used,  dipping  it  into  the  cooked  sugar,  lifting  it  out  and  leaving  all  the 
surplus  sugar  drain  off  by  moving  it  backward  and  forward  the  same  as  the  spinner. 


(3627).  SUGAR  FOR  CASTING  IN  MOLDS  (Sucre  a  Oouler  dans  les  Modes). 
Place  some  lumps  of  sugar  in  a  copper  pan;  pour  over  sufficient  water  to  soak  and  leave  till 
dissolved,  when  mix  in  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid  and  cook  to  245  degrees;  then  remove  from 
the  fire,  color  a  light  blue  with  ultramarine  blue  and  rub  it  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  with  a 
wooden  spoon  to  grain  it.  Pour  it  at  once  into  molds;  plaster  ones  a::e  generally  used  for  this  purpose, 
having  them  properly  dipped  in  cold  water,  then  well  drained  and  tied  around  firmly  with  a  string 
so  that  the  sugar  cannot  escape  from  the  joints  of  the  mold.  After  the  mold  is  full  wait  until  the 
sugar  congeals  on  top,  then  break  this  thin  crust  and  turn  the  mold  upside  down  to  empty  out  all 
the  liquid  sugar  in  order  to  have  the  subject  hollow  in  the  center.  Unmold  carefully,  removing 
each  piece  one  by  one;  pare  them  neatly  and  lea"re  to  cool  in  a  dry,  but  not  a  hot  place. 


1035 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


LAKGE  PIECES  (Qrandes  Pieces), 


(3628).  BASKETS  FILLED  WITH  CANDIED  FRUITS,  OR  ICE  CREAM  FRUITS  (Oorbeilles 

G-arnies  de  Fruits,  ou  de  Fruits  en  Glace). 

Take  some  ordinary  nougat  (No.  3621)  and  roll  it  out  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  from 
it  cut  a  round  ten  inches  in  diameter.  Prepare  twenty-one  wires,  each  five  inches  long,  coat  them 
with  a  layer  of  colored  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618)  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick  and  fasten  them 


FIG.  743 


to  the  round  of  nougat  at  half  an  inch  from  the  edge,  leaving  an  inch  space  between  each  one. 
Have  some  pulled  sugar,  either  white  or  colored;  imitate  a  rope  and  arrange  it  around  the  base  ofr 
the  basket;  pull  some  more  sugar  and  roll  it  into  strings  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  three  feet 
long;  make  a  braid  of  this  sugar  the  same  as  a  wicker  basket  going  in  and  out  of  the  wires  COB- 


FIG.  744. 


tinuing  as  far  as  the  top,  finishing  the  whole  with  another  rope  the  same  as  the  bottom.  Make  the 
handles  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  with  the  same  sugar  and  pass  them  through  rings  fastened 
with  sugar  cooked  to  "crack  (No.  171).  Inside  the  upper  part  of  the  basket  arrange  a  nougat 
foundation  and  cover  it  either  with  candied  fruits,  fresh  fruits  or  else  those  made  of  ice  cream  or 
water  ice. 


(3629).  PERRETTE'S  BASKET  (Le  Panier  de  Perrette), 

Have  some  nougat  made  of  chopped  almonds  (No.  3621);  roll  it  out  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  and  cut  it  into  an  oval  nine  by  five  inches.  Have  sixteen  pieces  of  wire,  each  six  inches 
long;  cover  all  of  them  with  a  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  layer  of  pulled  and  colored  sugar  (No. 
3618);  bend  each  one  separately  while  the  sugar  is  still  hot,  then  fasten  them  around  the  nougat 


CONFECTIONERY. 


1037 


oval,  an  inch  from  the  border;  spread  the  wires  outward  on  top.  Make  a  rope  of  pulled  white  sugar, 
place  it  around  the  bottom  of  the  basket;  roll  some  more  pulled  sugar  into  quarter-inch  diameter 
strings  and  braid  it  around  the  wires,  finishing  the  top  with  another  braid  of  pulled  sugar.  In  the 


FIG.  745. 

center  fasten  a  sufficiently  large  handle,  cover  it  with  flowers  and  leaves  made  of  pulled  sugar  and 
at  one  end  tie  a  pretty  satin  ribbon  bow  three  inches  in  width  and  of  a  color  harmonizing  with  the 
basket.  Put  a  nougat  bottom  inside  the  basket  at  two-thirds  of  its  height,  then  fill  up  with  chest- 
nuts made  of  chestnut  paste  iced  over  with  chocolate,  or  else  ice  cream  in  imitation  of  mushrooms, 
strawberries,  etc. 


(3630).  BASKET  WITH  OHEREIES  (Panier  de  Cerises). 

To  begin  this  basket  first  have  an  oval  board  ten  and  a  half  inches  long  by  six  inches 
wide;  all  around  this  oval  bore  holes  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  one  inch  apart  from 
each  other.  Cut  as  many  pieces  of  wire  four  and  a  half  inches  long  as  there  are  holes  perforated 
in  the  board;  straighten  and  envelop  them  in  cooked  sugar  to  form  into  sticks  three-sixteenths 


FIG.  746. 

of  an  inch  thick.  After  these  sticks  are  cold  dip  the  ends  of  each  one  separately  in  melted  sugar 
and  fasten  them  in  the  holes  in  the  board.  Now  prepare  some  pulled  sugar  as  described  in  No. 
3618;  take  a  little  of  this  at  a  time  and  pull  it  into  strings  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  with 
these  braid  the  basket  as  high  as  the  top  of  the  sticks.  Pull  two  sticks  with  the  same  sugar,  only 
slightly  thicker  than  those  used  for  braiding  the  basket  and  a  little  longer  than  half  the  circum- 


1038  THE    EPICUREAN 

ference  of  the  basket;  fasten  these  two  sticks  together  and  twist  them  so  as  to  imitate  a  thick  rope; 
flatten  this  partly  and  fasten  it  at  once  on  half  of  the  edge  of  the  basket,  then  pull  two  more 
sticks  the  same  as  the  others,  twist  them  the  same  way  to  obtain  another  thick  rope,  flatten  it  also 
and  fasten  it  to  the  other  half  of  the  basket's  edge.  To  make  the  handle  pull  three  strings  of  sugar 
the  same  thickness  and  twenty  inches  long,  braid  them  together  and  as  soon  as  this  is  done  bend 
the  plait  so  as  to  shape  the  handle  and  when  it  is  cold  attach  it  to  the  basket.  The  two  covers  are 
made  as  follows:  Pull  two  strings  of  sugar  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  bend  each  one  so 
as  to  form  a  frame  the  shape  and  size  of  the  opening  of  the  basket,  then  pull  more  strings  and 
while  they  are  still  hot  fasten  them  diagonally  on  to  these  frames,  and  on  top  of  these  fasten  others, 
crossing  them  in  such  a  way  that  they  form  a  lattice  work.  When  these  covers  are  finished  attach 
them  solidly  against  the  handle  of  the  basket.  Trim  around  the  base  of  the  basket  with  a  wreath 
of  leaves,  either  gilded  or  silvered,  arranging  them  symmetrically.  Fill  the  basket  tastefully  with 
cherries  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  and  leaves  of  pulled  sugar. 

(3631).  "BON  VOYAGE"  BOAT  SERVED  AT  A  PAKEWELL  DINNER  (Bateau  "Bon  Voyage," 

Servi  k  1'Occasion  d'un  Depart). 

The  shell  of  the  boat  is  made  of  brown  nougat  (No.  3621),  molded  in  a  plaster  mold,  oiled  and 
varnished  with  shellac,  first  well  dried,  then  oiled;  the  masts  are  made  of  wire  covered  with  pulled 
sugar  (No.  3618)  of  a  yellowish  hue;  the  cordage  of  silk,  and  the  sails  of  pulled  sugar  exceedingly 
white,  remelted  on  a  slow  fire,  and  rolled  out  speedily  with  a  roller,  then  cut  with  cardboard  patterns 
into  the  shape  of  the  various  sails,  afterward  laid  on  sheets  of  tin  bent  to  the  needed  form.  The  waves 
are  imitated  in  pulled  sugar  of  a  greenish  color,  and  the  letters  on  the  standard  are  painted  with 
gold  paint.  The  entire  boat  can  be  made  of  white  or  colored  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  and  the  water 


FIG.  74 


imitated  with  green  royal  icing  (No.  101).  This  piece  may  be  filled  either  with  fresh  or  candied 
fruits,  such  as  Malaga  grapes  stuffed  with  almond  paste  (No.  125);  candied  cherries  or  strawberries 
and  angelica,  or  else  instead  of  these  have  imitation  flowers  made  of  ice  cream  and  angelica 
lozenges. 

(3632).  CHARIOT  PILLED  WITH  LADY  APPLES  (Chariot  Garni  de  Pommes  d'Api). 

To  make  the  chariot  the  wheels  must  first  be  constructed.  The  hoops  of  the  wheels  are  made  with 
thick  bands  of  nougat  (No.  3621),  three-quarters  of  an  inch  broad;  bend  these  around  a  cylindrical 
mold  four  inches  in  diameter  and  stick  the  parts  together  with  cooked  sugar  (No.  3616).  To  make  the 
spokes  of  these  wheels,  roll  out  some  nougat  to  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  then  divide 
it  into  small  sticks  half  the  length  of  the  diameter  of  the  hoops  of  the  wheels;  when  these  are  all  cold 
fasten  the  small  sticks  inside  the  wheel  with  cooked  sugar,  having  them  laid  at  even  distances 
apart,  and  fasten  a  small  round  piece  of  nougat  in  the  center  to  imitate  the  naves  of  the  wheel; 
now  make  the  axles  with  two  pieces  of  strong  wire,  each  six  and  a  half  inches  in  length;  en- 
velop these  in  cooked  sugar  and  when  cold  attach  them  firmly  on  the  wheels.  Make  the  bottom 
of  the  chariot  with  a  layer  of  nougat  twelve  inches  long  by  six  wide  and  when  this  is  very  cold 


CONFECTIONERY. 


1039 


fasten  it  solidly  on  the  axles.  Next  make  the  two  ladders  as  hereby  described:  Roll  out  a  band  of 
nougat  to  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  pare  it  straight  and  even  on  both  ends,  having  it 
twelve  inches  long;  divide  it  lengthwise  into  four  very  straight  sticks  five-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
wide;  roll  out  some  more  nougat  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  this  into  even 
sticks  three  and  a  quarter  inches  long;  take  up  two  of  the  long  sticks,  lay  them  down  parallel 
at  three  and  a  quarter  inches  distance  apart  and  between  these  attach  diagonally  a  row  of  the  small 
sticks  slightly  apart  from  one  another,  and  again  on  these  a  second  row  also  laid  diagonally,  but  in 
an  opposite  direction,  so  that  one  row  crosses  the  other.  Having  finished  the  first  ladder,  proceed 
to  make  the  second.  Fasten  these  two  ladders  solidly  on  the  bottom  of  the  chariot  and  against  the 


FIG.  748. 


wheels.  Make  the  shafts  with  two  very  thin  wires  enveloped  in  cooked  sugar  and  when  cold  attact 
them  to  the  front  of  the  chariot.  The  socle  is  now  to  be  made:  Have  two  flats  of  nougat  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick,  one  for  the  upper  part  to  be  seventeen  inches  long  by  eleven  and  a 
half  wide,  and  the  second  one  for  the  bottom  nineteen  inches  long  by  thirteen  and  a  half  inches 
wide;  also  make  four  nougat  bands  for  the  framework  and  fasten  them  firmly  with  cooked  sugar; 
on  this  framework  lay  the  second  flat  and  fasten  it  also  to  form  the  socle  or  stand;  fasten  around 
the  bottom  of  this  socle  a  triple  row  of  nougat  points  cut  very  evenly  and  placed  symmetrically; 
decorate  the  border  of  the  second  flat  with  oak  leaves  and  acorns  made  of  sugar,  and  lastly  con- 
struct the  fence  with  sticks  of  nougat  cut  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Lay  the  chariot  on 
this  stand  and  fill  it  with  small  lady  apples  formed  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  or  grained  sugar,  and 
fasten  here  and  there  some  apple  leaves  made  of  cooked  sugar. 


(3833).  OHAKIOT  OP  DOVES  (Le  Chariot  des  Colombes). 

The  body  of  the  chariot  is  made  and  molded  of  white  nougat  (No.  3622)  in  a  plaster  mold, 
divided  in  two,  well  garnished  with  shellac  and  oiled;  the  border  of  the  shell  is  made  of  almond 


1040 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


paste  (No.  125)  and  gum  tragacanth  cut  out  in  a  design;  the  wheels  are  of  nougat  or  pulled  sugar 
(No.  3618),  the  spokes,  the  ring  and  the  axle  cut  out  separately  and  fastened  together  with  cooked 
sugar;  the  nails  are  imitated  with  royal  icing  (No.  101);  the  shafts  are  made  of  wire  covered  with 


FIG. 


toougat  or  pulled  sugar.  Stand  the  chariot  on  an  oval  stand  of  pistachio  nougat  (No.  3622)  the  size 
of  the  bottom  of  the  dish  intended  for  serving.  Place  a  false  nougat  bottom  inside  the  chariot,  then 
fill  it  up  with  candied  fruits  iced  over  with  caramel  and  angelica.  This  chariot  can  also  be  made  of 
gum  paste  (No.  3624)  and  filled  with  candied  fruits  or  fruits  and  flowers  of  all  descriptions  made 
in  ice  cream  or  water  ice. 

(3634).  CHARIOT  OP  SWANS  (Le  Char  des  Oygnes), 

This  piece  is  made  entirely  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  the  swan  is  molded  in  a  two-piece  plaster 
mold,  the  two  halves  of  the  swan  are  fastened  together,  the  crevices  filled  with  softened  gum  paste, 
then  thoroughly  dried.  Wash  off  with  a  sponge  and  imitate  the  eyes  and  beaks  with  a  brush. 


FIG.  750. 

The  shell  is  also  molded  in  a  dry  plaster  mold  and  is  decorated  on  the  outspread  parts  with  designs 
of  gum  paste  bronzed  or  gilded.  On  the  thin  end  of  the  shell  stand  a  Cupid  made  of  gum  paste; 
the  ring  encircling  the  swan  is  of  gum  paste,  the  reins  of  silk  and  the  harness  of  satin  ribbon ; 
the  whole  is  made  to  stand  on  an  oval  bottom  cut  the  size  of  the  dish  it  is  served  on.  The  waves 
are  made  of  royal  icing  (No.  101)  tinted  a  pale  green.  Fill  the  chariot  with  iced  candied  fruits, 
candies,  or  else  ice  cream  or  water  ices. 


(3635).  CORNUCOPIA,  HORN  OF  PLENTY  (Come  d'Abondance), 

This  cornucopia  is  molded  in  a  mold  the  shape  of  Fig.  751.  It  is  made  of  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618), 
remelted  and  rolled  out  with  a  roller — this  must  be  done  very  quickly — or  else  it  can  be  made  of 
white  nougat  (No.  3622)  decorated  with  royal  icing  (No.  101)  or  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624).  Fasten 
it  on  the  opening  side  on  a  nougat  surtout,  and  support  the  body  of  the  cornucopia  by  fastening 
two  rests  molded  in  gum  paste  in  a  two-piece  mold,  and  place  a  wire  in  the  center  of  each;  attach 
the  two  pieces  together  and  let  get  very  dry.  The  cornucopia  is  surmounted  by  a  gum  paste  Cupid; 
the  inside  border  of  the  opening  of  the  dish  is  made  of  pulled  sugar  and  is  composed  of  rings,  with 
smaller  ones  of  a  darker  color  placed  inside  of  one  another;  bend  them  lightly  to  spread  open  on 
sheets  of  tin,  then  fasten  them  to  the  inside  border  of  the  dish  with  cooked  sugar;  between  each 


CONFECTIOXERY. 


1041 


one  arrange  a  lozenge  of  glazed  angelica.     The  opening  of  the  cornucopia  is  filled  with  candied 
fruits,  or  else  others  made  of  chestnut  or  almond  paste  (No.  125),  and  glazed  with  sugar  cooked  to 


"crack"  (No.  171).  This  piece  may  be  made  of  white  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  and  decorated  with 
gold  reliefs,  or  it  may  be  utilized  by  replacing  the  fruits  with  fruits  imitated  in  cream  or  water 
ices. 

(3636),  THE  DOSSER  A  LA  DENIYELLE  (La  Hotte  a  la  Denivelle). 

Koll  out  some  nougat  (No.  3621)  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  from  it  cut  with  either 
a  tin  or  oiled  cardboard  pattern  a  piece  fifteen  inches  long  by  six  on  one  end  and  four  on  the  other  in 


FIG. 


width,  rounding  the  six-inch  end  which  is  for  the  upper  part  of  the  dosser;  also  cut  another  piece 
of  a  semicircular  shape  four  inches  in  diameter  by  two  and  a  half  inches  in  radius.  Prepare 
eleven  wires,  two  eight  inches  long,  two  of  seven  and  three-quarters,  two  of  seven  and  a  half,  two 
of  seven  and  a  quarter,  two  of  seven  and  one  of  six  and  three-quarters  inches;  coat  them  all  with 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


colored  sugar.  Fasten  the  semi-circular  bottom  on  the  large  piece  at  its  narrowest  end,  near 
the  edge;  on  this  bottom  arrange  the  wires,  beginning  with  the  eight-inch  ones  on  each  side 
beside  the  back  of  the  dosser,  and  continuing  with  the  othei's  according  to  their  various  lengths,  ar 
the;  same  time  spreading  them  open  toward  the  top.  Coat  with  green  sugar  two  more  wires  each 
nine  inches  long,  and  leave  to  cool.  Cut  out  a  round  bottom  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  then  fasten 
the  dosser  on  the  center  of  it,  pressing  it  against  the  two  long  wires  to  be  used  for  a  support; 
decorate  the  whole  profusely  with  leaves  and  flowers  made  of  satinated  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618), 
and  fill  the  dosser  with  mushrooms  or  strawberries  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125),  also  some 
angelica  coated  \\ith  sugar  cooked  to  "crack  "  (No.  171).  The  docker  may  be  filled  with  small  ices 
imitating  flowers. 

(3637).  VASES  OF  PULLED  AND  DKAWff  SUGAE  (Vases  en  Sucre  File"  et  Tire). 
All  pieces  that  are  made  of  pulled  and  spun  sugar  are  exceedingly  useful  for  many  reasons, 
as  large-sized  pieces  can  be  executed  at  a  comparatively  low  cost  and  yet  be  most  elegant,  grace- 
ful and  light;  besides  the  rapidity  of  the  execution,  they  can  be  made  to  assume  a  great  variety  of 
shapes,  and  all  this  with  very  few  or  even  no  molds.     The  designs  shown  in  Figs.  753  and  754, 


FIG.  753 . 


FIG.  754. 


will  demonstrate  the  many  uses  to  be  made  of  pulled  and  spun  sugar,  and  although  they 
demand  much  skill  and  attention,  yet  they  do  not  offer  the  same  difficulties  as  gum  paste. 
The  socles  or  stands  for  these  pieces  may  be  of  white  nougat  (No.  3622),  molded  and  cut  out,  and 
the  embellishments  around  the  base  of  the  vases  may  also  be  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  glazed  with 
caramel.  The  three  swans  seen  on  one  of  the  socles  are  made  of  very  white  cooked  sugar  (320 
degrees  Fahrenheit),  poured  into  slightly  oiled  tin  molds;  leave  till  cold,  then  unmold.  The  whole 
work  must  be  mounted  symmetrically,  being  careful  that  each  part  is  firmly  attached  and  the  piece 
perfectly  secure.  For  vases  of  white  or  colored  Booked  sugar  (No.  3616)  trace  outlines  of  the  de- 
signs on  marble  (see  Fig.  733),  having  sixteen,  twenty-four  or  even  thirty-two  pieces  for  each  vase. 
Take  a  stick  six  to  eight  inches  higher  than  the  intended  vase  and  coat  it  with  cooked  sugar; 
roll  it  on  the  marble  until  it  becomes  exceedingly  smooth,  leave  it  until  cold,  then  fasten  it  verti- 
cally on  to  the  center  of  the  socle;  adapt  the  traced  pieces  perpendicularly  around  this  stick  at  equal 


CO1STFJEOTIOXERY.  1043 

distances  apart.  Prepare  the  flowers  and  leaves  of  pulled  sugar  (Figs.  735  to  741);  mount  them  on 
wire  stalks  covered  with  sugar,  and  attach  them  solidly  against  the  stick  inside  the  top  of  the  vase, 
spreading  them  open  slightly  to  enlarge  and  to  give  a  graceful  effect  to  the  blossoms.  Decorate 
the  base  of  the  eocle  with  flowers  and  leaves  of  pulled  sugar.  Should  the  pieces  be  very  large, 
then  it  will  be  found  advisable  to  mount  the  bouquet  separately  and  place  it  in  the  vase  when  in 
position  on  the  dinner  table;  in  this  case  instead  of  having  the  stick  higher  than  the  vase  it  must 
be  at  least  six  inches  lower,  to  leave  room  for  a  receptacle  intended  to  receive  the  flowers,  the  latter 
to  be  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  upper  portion  of  the  vase,  and  to  be  made  of  nougat  (No.  3622), 
stand  this  inside  the  vase  and  place  the  flowers  tastefully  within. 

(3638),  WHEELBARROW  PILLED  WITH  FLOWERS  ON  A  SOCLE  (Brouette  Garnie  de  Fleurs  sur 

Socle), 

Have  ready  an  oval  socle  made  of  brown  nougat,  the  same  as  shown  in  Fig.  756;  decorate  it 
with  agricultural  implements  and  leaves  of  pulled  sugar  made  by  hand;  the  rope  around  the  base 
of  the  socle  is  made  with  two  strings  twisted  quickly  and  fastened  to  the  border  and  around  the 
under  base;  the  top  tray  is  made  of  green  pistachio  nougat  (No.  3622).  On  top  of  the  entire  socle 
arrange  a  wheelbarrow  made  in  four  pieces  of  pink  or  any  other  color  of  pulled  sugar,  rolled  out  to 
three  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cut  out  with  patterns  made  beforehand  and  after  the 
drawing;  the  shafts  and  rests  are  made  of  wire  covered  with  pulled  sugar  and  bent  to  the  desired 


FIG.  756. 

shape.  The  wheel  is  of  pulled  sugar:  first  make  a  ring  and  place  a  round  in  the  center; 
join  the  two  together  by  small  sticks  of  pulled  sugar;  between  the  shafts  and  the  wheel  pass 
a  wire;  fasten  it  on  at  each  side  with  cooked  sugar.  The  wheelbarrow  is  upheld  and  fastened  with 
sugar  cooked  to  "crack;"  the  flowers  that  fill  the  barrow  and  the  border  on  top  are  made  of  pulled 
sugar  to  which  a  little  chocolate  has  been  added. 

This  piece  of  confectionery  may  be  made  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624),  either  white  or  any  light 
color;  the  wheelbarrow  can  be  filled,  as  well  as  the  one  above,  with  glazed  fruits  or  fancy  ices,  such 
as  potatoes,  tomatoes,  mushrooms,  etc.,  and  the  bottom  of  the  socle  garnished  around  with  fruits, 
or  fruits  in  cases  glazed  with  caramel,  or  with  small  light  waffles  dressed  in  a  circle,  one  overlap- 
ping the  other. 

(3639).  WINDMILL  (Moulin  a  Vent). 

This  pyramid,  though  quite  an  old  idea,  is  always  sure  to  be  well  received.  The  great  variety 
of  its  details,  and  the  figures  which  can  be  added  to  it,  representing  scenes  of  country  life,  give  it 
an  attractive  appearance  which  can  hardly  be  obtained  in  architectural  pyramids.  Although  its  exe- 
cution offers  no  great  difficulties,  yet  great  care  and  exactitude  must  be  taken  in  the  cutting  out  of 
the  different  pieces  of  which  it  is  composed,  for  there  is  the  essential  point  for  its  successful  com- 
pletion. The  cut  is  a  reduction  of  the  original,  and  can  thus  serve  as  a  basis  for  its  execution, 


1044 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


either  in  multiplying  or  diminishing  its  dimensions,  according  to  the  desired  size  of  the  pyramid. 
Cut  out  with  great  precision  patterns  of  strong  cardboard,  and,  if  to  be  used  for  nougat,  oil  them 
well.  The  part  of  the  pyramid  representing  the  walls  is  made  of  white  nougat  (No.  3622)  with 
chopped  almonds,  rolled  on  the  marble  to  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  with  the  help  of 
oiled  patterns  cut  out  rapidly  the  windows  and  the  doors.  The  roof  is  of  nougat  covered  with  imi- 
tation of  tiles  made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  colored  a  light  chocolate  or  a  light  brick  red,  rolled 
to  a  sheet  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick.  Out  out  with  a  tin  circular  cutter  and  then  put  on,  begin- 
ning with  the  bottom  layer,  each  layer  successively  overlapping  the  other.  The  large  platform  and 
the  doors  are  of  ordinary  brown  nougat  (No.  3621),  the  railing  of  lightly  colored  chocolate  sugar,  and 
composed  of  pieces  cut  with  a  knife  and  stuck  together  with  melted  sugar.  The  windows  are  made 
of  sugar  boiled  to  three  hundred  and  thirty  degrees,  very  clear,  rolled  thin  and  placed  in  the  interior. 


FIG.  757. 

The  rustic  beams  are  made  of  chocolate  pulled  sugar  (No.  3618),  the  stairways  of  brown  nougat  and 
the  wings  of  the  mill  are  composed  of  four  pieces  of  wire,  covered  and  rolled  in  brown  cooked  sugar, 
and  of  white  pulled  sugar  melted  and  rolled  thin,  arid  cut  out  with  scissors.  The  little  sticks  across 
the  wings  are  made  of  lightly  colored  chocolate  sugar  and  put  on  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  apart. 
The  rock  or  base  is  twelve  inches  high,  and  is  composed  of  two  wood  platforms,  supported  by  a  wood 
framework,  around  which  bunches  of  crumpled  paper  ai'e  put  on,  which  is  then  covered  with  green 
nougat,  rolled  thin  and  garnished  with  herbs  and  plants  imitated  with  green  pulled  sugar.  This 
whole  pyramid  can  also  be  made  of  clear  sugar  exclusively,  boiled  to  three  hundred  and  thirty-five 
degrees,  very  transparent,  melted  over  and  poured  on  a  tracing  of  patterns  on  marble  and  filled  in 
as  described.  Or,  further  yet,  of  gum  paste  (No.  3624)  exclusively,  in  natural  colors  or  white, 
taking  great  care,  however,  not  to  set  up  the  pieces  until  each  one  is  perfectly  dry.  The  windows 


COISTFElOTIOlSTEItY. 


1045 


could  then  be  imitated  by  thin  sheets  of  mica  or  gelatine,  and  the  base  of  gum  paste  covered  with 
royal  icing  (No.  101).  Or,  the  ambitious  workman  can  imitate  with  gum  paste,  a  miller,  a  bag  on 
his  shoulder,  going  up  the  stairway,  or  two  peasants  eating  and  drinking,  or  a  peasant  woman  with 
children  around  her,  and  many  other  subjects  of  country  life  and  customs. 

(3639a).  THE  PEOLIFIO  TEEE  (L'Arbre  Prodigieux), 

In  ovder  to  make  a  tree  two  feet  in  height  cut  the  wires  varying  from  four  to  fourteen  inches  in 
length.  Prepare  some  nougat  with  chopped  almonds  (No.  3621),  incorporating  sufficient  cocoa  to 
color  it  brown;  roll  out  enough  of  this  to  be  able  to  cut  out  a  piece  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  sixteen 
inches  long  and  seven  inches  wide  in  the  part  intended  for  the  base  and  slightly  narrower  for  the 
top.  Wrap  this  piece  of  nougat  around  a  wooden  support  in  imitation  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree  and 


FIG.  758. 

leavi  to  cool;  coat  the  wires  with  nougat  proportionately  thick  according  to  their  length,  and  thicker 
on  the  ends  that  are  to  be  attached  to  the  trunk;  bend  them  as  soon  as  covered  to  shape  them  into 
knotty  and  irregular  boughs,  and  leave  to  cool.  Color  some  white  nougat  (No.  3622)  a  pistachio 
green,  roll  it  out  on  a  marble  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  from  it  cut  a  round  'bottom 
sixteen  inches  in  diameter,  then  attach  it  to  a  board  of  the  same  size.  At  two  inches  from  the  edge 
fasten  the  trunk  of  the  tree  on  solidly  and  decorate  it  with  the  boughs,  having  the  heaviest  attached 
to  the  trunk,  and  the  lighter  ones  attached  to  these.  Melt  some  cooked  sugar,  mix  in  a  little  cooo?. 
and  chopped  almonds,  and  with  a  knife  coat  over  the  trunk  and  the  branches  to  imitate  the  bark 
and  the  roots  at  the  foot  of  the  tree.  Pull  some  dark  green-colored  sugar,  a  very  little  at  a  time, 
and  with  it  form  leaves  as  described  in  No.  3618;  trim  the  branches  with  these,  and  also  with  cherries 
made  of  almond  paste  (No.  125)  and  glazed,  or  else  substitute  pears  or  little  apples,  or  better  still 
green  almonds,  but  any  imitated  fruit  can  be  used.  Place  a  ladder  against  the  tree,  made  of  wire 
covered  with  chocolate-colored  sugar,  and  on  this  stand  a  small  image  to  represent  a  cupid  stealing 


1046  THE    EPICUREAN. 

the  fruit,  and  at  one  side  another  cupid  receiving  the  picked  fruit.  Make  these  figures  of 
gum  paste  (No.  3624).  Make  the  boughs  and  bushes  around  the  foot  of  the  tree  of  pulled  sugar 
(No.  3618),  also  the  rope  that  surrounds  it.  These  trees  can  be  varied  as  regards  both  size  and 
subject.  One  or  more  trees  can  be  arranged  on  a  single  board  without  any  figures  or  subjects. 

(3640).  CANDYING,  COLD  AND  HOT  (Candi  a,  Froid  et  I  Chaud), 

Cold. — This  manner  of  candying  is  specially  adapted  for  bonbons.  Put  some  lump  sugar  in 
a  copper  pan,  pour  over  sufficient  water  to  dissolve  it,  and  as  soon  as  this  takes  place  set  it  on  the 
fire  to  cook  to  thirty-five  degrees;  when  the  sugar  has  attained  this  degree  take  the  pan  from  the 
fire  and  stand  it  in  a  basin  or  any  other  receptacle  filled  with  cold  water;  cover  the  sugar  with  a 
round  of  paper,  and  leave  stand  till  cold.  Now  pour  it  into  the  candy  pans  containing  the  pieces 
to  be  candied;  put  in  a  dry  place  in  a  moderate  temperature  and  leave  for  twelve  to  eighteen  hours; 
drain  off  the  syrup  and  place  the  candied  pieces  on  a  grate  to  dry. 

Hot. — This  manner  of  candying  is  used  specially  for  candying  preserved  fruits.  Cook  some 
syrup  to  thirty-six  degrees;  leave  rest  for  one  instant,  then  pour  it  into  the  candy  pans,  having  the 
fruits  already  arranged  therein;  place  the  pan  in  a  heater,  having  it  moderately  hot,  and  remove 
only  after  six  or  seven  hours,  or  when  the  fruits  are  all  coated. 

(3641),  TO  CAST  IN  STAEOH  (Pour  Couler  &  1'Amidon). 
To  cast  in  starch  wooden  boxes  are  required  twenty  inches  long,  fourteen  inches  wide  and 

three  inches  deep.  Fill  these  boxes  with  very  dry  starch  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  top;  stir 
about  with  a  small  whip  to  have  it  light,  then  smooth  neatly  with  a 
ruler;  now  imprint  into  it  with  small  plaster  molds  fastened  on  to  a 
second  ruler  at  some  distance  apart,  burying  them  in  the  starch  until  the 
ruler  touches  the  edges  of  the  box.  Should  these  small  molds  have  a 
channeled  surface  or  deeply  imprinted  designs,  then  before  lifting  them 
out  of  the  starch  rap  the  ruler  lightly  on  top  to  have  any  of  the  starch 
that  may  adhere  fall  away.  Care  must  be  taken  to  sift  the  starch 
FIG.  759.  ~  from  time  to  time  to  rid  it  of  any  lumps  or  grains  of  sugar  that  may  have 

formed  therein.     To  cast  the  sugar  use  a  funnel  in  the  center  of  which  is 

a  rod  terminating  in  a  ball  that  fits  the  outlet  of  the  funnel  accurately.     This  rod  is  moved  up 

and  down  by  means  of  a  horizontal  lever  and  a  spring  which  are  fastened  to  the  handle  of  the 

funnel. 


CANDIES  (Bonbons), 


(3642).  BUENT  ALMONDS  (Pralines), 

Put  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  half  of  a  vanilla  bean  in  a  pan,  dissolve  it  with  a  little 
water  and  stand  it  on  the  fire  to  co^k  to  thirty-four  degrees  (syrup  gauge),  then  add  one  pound  of 
fine  almonds;  mix  all  together  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  continue  to  cook  until  the  sugar  reaches 
"  crack"  (No.  171),  stirring  the  almonds  steadily  till  the  sugar  granulates.  Take  the  pan  from  the 
fire  and  pour  both  sugar  and  almonds  into  a  coarse  sieve  to  separate  the  almonds  from  the  granu- 
lated sugar,  return  the  almonds  to  the  pan,  stand  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  constantly  until  the  sugar 
covering  the  almonds  melts  away,  adding  from  time  to  time  a  small  handful  of  the  granulated 
sugar.  As  soon  as  all  the  sugar  is  added  and  that  surrounding  the  almonds  is  well  dissolved,  pour 
it  immediately  on  to  a  slab,  separating  them  from  each  other,  and  leave  to  cool.  Put  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  dissolved  gum  arabic  in  a  basin,  dilute  it  with  a  little  water  and  let  it  come  to  a 
boil;  then  add  the  burnt  almonds  and  toss  until  entirely  covered;  pour  at  once  on  to  a  sieve  and 
place  in  the  heater  to  dry. 

(3643).  CHOCOLATE  OEEAM  CARAMELS  (Caramels  &  la  Or&me  au  Ohocolat). 
Melt  twelve  ounces  of  chocolate  in  a  copper  pan  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  good  cream  and  half 
a  pint  of  fruit  syrup  well  flavored  with  vanilla,  then  add  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar.     Stand 
the  pan  on  a  hot  fire  and  wren  the  liquid  begins  to  boil  stir  it  vigorously  with  a  spatula  until  it 


CONFECTIONERY.  1047 

reaches  "large ball"  (No.  171),  then  pour  it  on  a  slightly  oiled  marble  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness, 
securing  the  caramel  within  lightly  oiled  square  iron  rods  laid  in  the  shape  of  a  square.  This  caramel 
takes  a  long  while  to  cool;  when  cold  remove  the  rulers,  detach  from  the  marble  and  cut  it  first 
into  long  bands  half  an  inch  wide,  and  these  across  in  half-inch  squares.  As  fast  as  the  caramels 
are  cut  wrap  each  one  in  a  piece  of  waxed  paper. 

(3644).  VANILLA  CREAM  CARAMELS,  OE  WITH  TEA- OK  COFFEE  (Caramels  a  la  Creme 

Vanillas  au  Th6  ou  au  Oaf8), 

Set  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  copper  pan  to  melt  with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  cream,  adding  a 
split  vanilla  bean;  stand  the  pan  on  a  brisk  fire  and  stir  steadily  until  cooked  to  "  large  ball  "  (No. 
171),  then  pour  it  in  a  square  formed  on  the  marble  with  slightly  oiled  square  iron  rods,  having  it 
the  same  thickness  as  the  chocolate  caramels.  When  cold  cut  out  and  wrap  in  waxed  papers, 
finishing  them  exactly  the  same  as  the  chocolates.  These  caramels  can  be  flavored  with  tea  or 
coffee,  proceeding  as  for  the  above,  only  using  one  pound  of  sugar,  two  gills  of  cream  and  a  gill 
and  a  half  of  infused  tea  or  coffee. 

(3645).  CORDIAL  CANDIES  (Bonbons  aux  Liqueurs). 

These  candies  are  cast  in  starch.  First  prepare  the  boxes  of  starch,  impressed  as  explained  in 
No.  3641;  put  two  pounds  of  sugar  in  a  copper  basin,  dissolve  with  three  gills  of  water  and 
stand  it  on  the  fire  to  cook  the  sugar  to  thirty-six  degrees  (syrup  gauge);  when  the  sugar  attains 
this  degree  add  a  small  cordial  glassful  of  kirsch,  maraschino  or  any  other  desired  cordial, 
to  bring  the  syrup  back  to  thirty-two  degrees,  stirring  it  well.  Now  pour  this  syrup  into  a  spring 
funnel  (Fig.  759)  and  cast  the  candies  in  the  starch  impressions;  put  the  filled  box  in  the 
heater  at  a  moderate  temperature  and  leave  for  twelve  hours.  They  should  now  have  formed  a 
sufficiently  thick  crust  to  allow  them  to  be  worked;  remove  carefully  from  the  starch,  brush  one  at 
a  time  with  a  very  soft  hair  brush,  and  lay  them  at  once  on  a  grate  to  cool,  then  stand  this 
grate  on  a  candy  pan  and  cover  the  candies  with  a  cold  thirty-two  degree  syrup;  lay  a  piece  of 
paper  on  top  to  keep  the  candies  submerged.  Put  this  candy  pan  in  a  mild  temperature  and  leave 
for  six  hours.  Then  drain  off  the  syrup,  take  out  the  candies  to  arrange  them  on  a  second  grate 
and  leave  to  dry.  Instead  of  crystallizing  these  candies  they  can  be  iced  with  fondant  (No.  58) 
flavored  with  cordial. 

(3646).  DROPS  (Pastilles). 

These  are  made  by  mixing  powdered  sugar  from  which  the  icing  sugar  has  been  removed  by 
sifting  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  flavored  either  with  aromatics  or  fruit  juices,  to  the  consistency 
of  a  paste.  They  are  all  prepared  exactly  alike;  those  composed  of  fruit  should  be  a  little  more 
liquid  and  a  little  less  heated  than  those  with  aromatically  flavored  waters.  They  should  all  be 
dropped  on  to  bright  tin  plates. 

(3647).  PEPPERMINT  DROPS  (Pastilles  de  Menthe). 

Mix  seven  ounces  of  the  same  sugar  as  above  with  about  two  ounces  of  water,  flavored  with  a 
few  drops  of  peppermint  essence,  to  form  into  a  paste;  heat  it  the  same  as  for  the  strawberry 
drops,  only  warming  it  rather  more,  and  finish  exactly  the  same. 

(3648).  STRAWBERRY  DROPS  (Pastilles  aux  Praises). 

Place  seven  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  prepared  as  (No.  3646),  in  a  small  copper  pan  having  a 
spout,  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  a  paste  with  about  an  ounce  of  filtered  strawberry  juice; 
color  lightly  with  liquid  carmine  to  give  it  a  pink  hue.  Stand  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  heat  until  the 
paste  flows,  stirring  continuously  with  a  small  spatula;  however,  it  must  be  of  a  consistency  not  to 
spread  when  dropped  on  the  trays.  To  dress,  hold  the  pan  in  the  left  hand,  inclining  the  spout 
toward  the  tray,  and  in  the  right  hand  hold  a  small  wire;  with  this  cut  the  paste  away  from  the 
spout  as  fast  as  it  runs  out,  thus  leaving  it  fall  in  small  pieces  to  form  into  drops  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  in  diameter  and  slightly  apart  from  each  other.  Half  an  hour  after  they  can  be  detached 
from  the  tray  by  bending  it  slightly  and  then  shaking  them;  throw  on  a  sieve  to  finish  drying. 

(3649).  FILBERT  CANDIES  (Bonbons  d'Avelines  en  Conserve). 

Procure  small  plaster  molds  imitating  hazel-nuts  and  fasten  them  to  a  ruler,  then  imprint 
them  in  starch.  Peel  six  ounces  of  filberts  and  crush  to  form  a  very  fine  paste  with  a  gill  and  a 


1048  THE    EPICUREAN. 

half  of  water.  Cook  a  pound  of  sugar  to  "  small  crack  "  (No.  171),  add  the  pounded  nuts,  stir  well 
and  cast  it  at  once  into  the  starch  impressions;  when  these  candies  have  sufficiently  hardened  in  the 
starch  to  be  able  to  be  handled  take  them  out,  one  by  one,  brush  carefully  and  stand  on  a  sieve  to 
cool;  they  can  afterward  be  dipped  in  cold  crystallized  syrup  until  completely  coated  with  candy. 

(3650).  CHOCOLATE  FONDANTS  (Pendants  an  ChocolatX 

Dissolve  four  ounces  of  chocolate  with  two  gills  of  water;  add  half  a  stick  of  vanilla  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  sugar;  continue  to  cook  until  it  reaches  "  small  ball "  (No.  171),  then  pour  it  on 
a  marble  slab  and  leave  to  cool;  work  to  obtain  a  fondant,  proceeding  the  same  as  for  No.  58.  Put 
a  part  of  this  in  a  copper  pan  to  melt,  adding  a  spoonful  of  vanilla  syrup,  then  cast  this  in  the 
starch.  As  soon  as  the  candies  are  firm  and  cold  take  them  out  and  brush  over;  melt  the 
remainder  of  the  fondant,  softening  it  with  vanilla  syrup,  and  dip  the  candies  in  this. 

(3651).  VANILLA  FONDANTS  (Fondants  a  la  Vanille). 

Have  some  conical-shaped  molds,  with  rounded  tops,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter  at  their 
base  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  high;  impress  them  into  the  starch.  Put  one  pound  of  fondant 
(No.  58)  in  a  sugar  pan,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  thirty-four  degree  syrup  strongly  flavored 
with  vanilla  and  stand  it  on  the  fire  to  heat  until  the  finger  can  yet  be  held  in,  then  pour  it 
into  a  spring  funnel  (Fig.  759)  and  run  it  through  into  the  impressions  in  the  starch;  when  the 
candies  are  cold  and  firm  take  them  carefully  from  the  starch,  brush  gently  with  a  brush  and 
stand  them  on  a  grate,  then  put  away  in  a  cold  place.  These  can  be  dipped  in  fondant  well 
flavored  with  vanilla. 

(3652).  FONDANTS  DIPPED  IN  STRAWBERRY  OR  RASPBERRY  (Fondants  Trends  a  la  Fraise 

ou  a  la  Framboise). 

Pr/c  some  fondant  into  a  copper  pan  and  heat  well,  dissolving  it  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  straw- 
berry or  raspberry  juice.  As  soon  as  hot  cast  it  through  a  funnel  into  the  starch,  proceeding  the 
same  as  for  vanilla  fondant  (No.  3651).  When  firm  and  cold  take  them  carefully  from  the 
starch  and  dip  each  one  in  a  strawberry  or  raspberry  fondant  lightly  tinted  with  a  little  carmine. 

(3653).  CANDIES  FOR  MOTTOES  (Bonbons  pour  Papillotes). 

Have  some  small  conical-shaped  plaster  molds,  the  bottoms  being  detruncated  and  rounded; 
they  should  be  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  and  one  inch  high.  Fasten  these  molds  on  a  ruler 
slightly  apart  from  each  other,  then  with  this  ruler  imprint  the  molds  into  the  starch.  Put  two 
pounds  of  sugar  in  a  copper  sugar  basin  and  dissolve  ii;  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water;  stand  this 
on  the  fire  to  cook  to  "  large  ball "  (No.  171),  being  careful  to  remove  all  the  scum  and  keep  the  sides 
of  the  pan  clean.  When  the  sugar  has  reached  the  proper  degree  let  it  fall  to  "small  ball"  by 
adding  a  few  spoonfuls  of  orange  flower  water,  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  with  a 
wooden  spoon  rub  the  sugar  against  the  sides  to  mass  it.  As  soon  as  it  begins  to  whiten  stir  it  well 
and  cast  it  into  the  starch  impressions,  using  a  spring  funnel  (Fig.  759)  for  this  purpose;  when  the 
box  is  full  bestrew  the  candies  lightly  with  a  handful  of  starch  and  put  the  box  in  a  heater  for  two 
or  three  hours.  After  the  candies  are  hard  remove  them  from  the  starch  and  range  them  on  grates 
or  on  a  sieve  to  cool  thoroughly,  then  brush  over  with  a  camel's  hair  or  feather  brush.  To  wrap  up 
these  candies  spread  open  some  variegated  colored  motto  papers,  in  th^  center  of  each  lay  a  printed 
motto  folded  in  four  and  on  this  one  of  the  candies,  then  fold  the  p^per  all  around  toward  the 
center  and  use  a  string  attached  to  the  table  to  enclose  the  candy  (this  is  done  by  giving  the  string 
a  turn  around  the  motto  and  pulling  on  it,  then  the  motto  is  released  and  will  be  found  firmly 
twisted)  and  form  a  bouquet  with  the  fringed  ends  of  the  paper. 

(3654).  NORTHERN  JELLY  CANDIES  (Bonbons  du  Nord  a  la  Gel<§e). 

Fasten  some  plaster  half-spherical  or  convex  molds  on  a  ruler  and  with  it  make  the  impressions 
in  the  starch.  Prepare  a  pint  of  apple  jelly  the  same  as  in  No.  3668,  only  cooking  it  a  little  more; 
bring  this  to  the  ordinary  degree  of  cooking,  adding  either  rum,  kirsch  or  other  liquor,  then  cast  it 
in  the  starch  impressions  through  a  spring  funnel  (Fig.  759).  Put  the  boxes  in  a  heater  and  leave 
for  eight  or  ten  hours.  By  this  time  the  jelly  will  have  formed  into  thin  crusts  sufficiently  hardened 
to  be  taken  out  carefully  and  laid  on  a  wire  sieve.  When  cold,  brush  each  one  separately  with  a 
fine  hair  brush  and  then  dip  into  a  liquor-flavored  fondant  (No.  58).  Instead  of  dipping  them  in 
the  fondant  they  can  be  candied  by  laying  them  in  a  cold  syrup,  the  same  as  for  No.  3659. 


CONFECTIONERY.  1049 

(3655).  NOUGAT,  SOFT  AND  HAED  (Nougat  Mou  et  Dur). 

Soft  White  Nougat. — Heat  three  pounds  of  white  honey,  cook  separately  three  pounds  of  sugar 
to  "ball"  (two  hundred  and  thirty-six  degrees  Fahrenheit).  Whip  eight  egg-whites  in  a  copper 
basin  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the  honey  and  the  cooked  sugar  and  continue  beating  the  whites  on  a 
slow  fire  until  the  preparation  is  at  "small  crack"  (two  hundred  and  ninety  degees  Fahrenheit). 
This  degree  of  heat  will  be  recognized  by  taking  up  a  small  part  with  the  tip  of  a  knife,  dipping  it 
in  cold  water,  and  when  crumbled  it  should  fall  into  a  powder.  During  this  time  cook  three  pounds 
of  sugar  to  "  crack  "  (three  hundred  and  ten  degrees  Fahrenheit);  mix  it  with  the  whites,  adding 
five  pounds  of  whole  almonds  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  hulled  and  dried  pistachios.  Fill  some 
oblong  tin  cases  with  this,  having  them  previously  lined  with  white  wafers.  Pour  the  nougat  in 
the  case,  leave  to  cool,  then  cut  in  slices. 

Another  Proportion  is  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  almonds,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  pound 
of  white  honey,  five  egg-whites,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachios,  two  ounces  of  burnt  almonds, 
and  vanilla;  finish  the  same  as  the  above. 

Hard  White  Nougat. — Four  pounds  of  heated  honey,  two  pounds  of  sugar  cooked  to  "  ball" 
(three  hundred  and  twenty-six  degrees  Fahrenheit),  two  pounds  cooked  to  "  small  crack"  (two  hun- 
dred and  ninety  degrees  Fahrenheit),  five  pounds  of  almonds,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachios 
and  five  beaten  egg-whites.  Cut  in  slices  when  nearly  cold.  The  same  preparation  as  for  the  soft 
white  nougat. 

(3656).  TOKTILLONS  (TortUlons). 

Place  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  copper  sugar  basin  with  sufficient  water  to  melt,  then  stand 
it  on  the  fire  to  cook  to  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  degrees  Fahrenheit,  being  careful  to  keep 
the  sides  clean,  and  proceed  as  explained  for  cooking  sugar  (No.  171).  When  ready  pour  it  on  a 
lightly  oiled  marble,  add  at  once  a  few  drops  of  peppermint  essence  and  begin  to  raise  up  the 
edges,  bringing  them  toward  the  center  until  the  sugar  can  be  handled  with  the  hands,  then  begin 
to  pull  till  it  attains  a  very  glossy,  silvery  appearance;  pull  again  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diame- 
ter string,  and  cut  this  quickly  into  small  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  bending  each  one  imme- 
diately into  the  shape  of  a  ring.  The  pulling,  cutting  and  bending  should  be  performed  with 
despatch,  before  the  sugar  has  time  to  cool,  when  it  will  fail  to  bend.  The  sugar  may  be  colored 
either  light  pink  or  pale  green  just  when  flavoring. 

(3657).  TEOOADEROS  WITH  KASPBEEEY  (Trocade'ros  a  la  Framboise). 

Proceed  the  same  as  for  Trocaderos  with  rum  (No.  3658),  using  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar 
and  a  gill  and  a  half  of  raspberry  pulp  strained  through  a  very  fine  sieve  and  two  and  a  half  gills  of 
rich  cream.  After  removing  from  the  starch  and  well  brushed,  dip  in  a  thin  royal  icing  (No.  101) 
slightly  tinted  with  carmine  and  flavored  with  a  little  raspberry  juice. 

(3658).  TEOOADEEOS  WITH  EUM  (Trocadgros  an  Ehum), 

Cook  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  to  "small  crack"  (No.  171),  adding  three  gills  of  cream,  and 
let  it  boil  up  once  only;  put  in  half  a  gill  of  rum  and  cast  it  at  once  in  starch  imprinted  with  small 
lozenge-shaped  molds;  set  the  box  away  in  the  heater  for  twelve  hours.  Now  remove  the  candies 
one  by  one  from  the  starch,  brush  carefully  and  range  them  on  a  grate;  dip  the  candies  in  a  light 
royal  icing  (No.  101)  well  flavored  with  rum. 

(3659).  CANDIED  VIOLETS  (Violettes  Pralines), 

Select  a  pound  of  full-bloom  violets;  suppress  the  stalks  and  throw  into  cold  water  to  refresh, 
then  spread  them  on  a  towel  to  drain.  Cook  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  to  "small  ball"  (No. 
171),  throw  in  the  violets,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  at  once  and  stir  gently  to  submerge  them. 
Boil  this  up  once  and  then  transfer  immediately  to  a  vessel.  The  following  day  drain  them  on  a 
sieve,  pour  the  syrup  back  into  a  copper  pan,  add  a  little  more  sugar,  and  cook  again  to  "  small  ball;" 
put  in  the  flowers  and  transfer  once  more  to  the  vessel  to  leave  for  another  twelve  hours;  after  this 
drain  off  again,  pour  this  syrup  back  into  the  pan,  boil  it  once  or  twice  and  add  the  violets,  remov- 
ing the  pan  at  once  from  the  fire.  Stir  the  violets  lightly  in  this  syrup  until  it  begins  to  grain, 
then  pour  the  whole  on  sheets  of  paper;  shake  and  separate  the  flowers  carefully  with  the  hands, 
and  when  dry  pick  them  from  the  granulated  sugar,  arrange  on  a  grate  and  leave  to  get  cold. 


1050  THE    EPICUREAN. 

PEESEEVES  (Conserves), 


(3660).  BEANDY  OHEEEIES  (Cerises  a  1'Eau  de  Vie). 

Cook  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  to  "small  crack"  (No.  171);  as  soon  as  it  reaches  this 
degree  take  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  add  slowly  to  it  one  gallon  of  brandy  and  a  fourth  part  of  a 
vanilla  bean;  leave  this  till  cold.  Cut  off  half  of  the  cherry  stalks,  range  the  fruit  in  glass  bottles 
and  cover  with  the  above  liquid.  Cork  the  bottles  hermetically  when  the  cherries  are  cold  and  put 
away  in  a  cool  place. 

(3661).  BEANDY  PIGS  (Figues  a  1'Eau  de  Vie). 

Have  some  white  even-sized  figs;  prick  and  leave  them  to  soak  for  twelve  hours  in  salted  water. 
Parboil  them  properly,  keeping  them  firm,  then  drain  and  refresh  by  throwing  them  into  a  plentiful 
supply  of  cold  salted  water  and  leave  them  to  steep  for  two  or  three  days;  now  put  them  in  a  copper 
pan  and  cover  with  a  hot  twenty-two  degree  syrup  so  that  they  macerate  for  six  hours;  afterward 
drain  off  this  syrup,  add  to  it  more  sugar  and  let  cook  to  twenty- five  degrees;  when  this  is  cold  pour 
it  over  the  figs:  repeat  this  operation  until  the  sugar  attains  thirty  degrees.  Drain  the  figs  well, 
put  them  into  glass  jars  and  cover  with  brandy;  let  macerate  for  six  weeks,  then  add  for  every 
quart  of  brandy  two  gills  of  thirty-degree  syrup. 

(3662).  BRANDY  GEEENGAGES  (Eeines  Claudes  a  1'Eau  de  Vie). 

Take  fine  sound  greengages;  prick  over  and  blanch;  have  them  resume  their  former  green 
color  the  same  as  for  preserved  greengages  (No.  3679),  and  when  well  refreshed  drain  again  and 
arrange  them  in  glass  jars,  each  one  to  contain  a  vanilla  bean;  cover  with  good  white  brandy  and 
cork  the  jars  hermetically;  leave  them  thus  for  fifteen  days.  After  this  lapse  of  time  dram  off 
the  brandy  and  add  some  sugar  to  it,  allowing  three  pounds  for  each  gallon  of  liquid;  stir  well 
together;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved  pour  it  over  the  fruits;  close  the  jars  hermetically  and  leave 
them  in  a  cool  place. 

(3663)  BEANDY  PEACHES  (Peches  a  1'Eau  de  Vie). 

Let  the  peaches  be  white  and  sound;  rub  with  a  cloth  to  remove  their  down,  prick  the  surfaces 
and  lay  them  in  cold  water;  drain  this  off  and  place  them  in  a  basin,  covering  with  fresh  cold  water 
into  which  has  been  added  a  small  piece  of  alum;  set  the  basin  on  the  fire  and  as  soon  as  the  liquid 
begins  to  heat  stir  the  fruits  about  from  time  to  time,  and  when  they  float  on  top  of  the  liquid 
remove  and  throw  them  again  into  cold  water.  Drain  and  arrange  them  in  one-quart  glass  jars, 
having  a  quarter  of  a  vanilla  stick  in  each,  and  cover  with  good  white  brandy.  Close  the  bottles 
hermetically  and  stand  them  in  a  cool  place  to  leave  for  fifteen  days,  and  then  drain  off  the  brandy 
into  a  basin,  add  sugar  to  it,  allowing  three  pounds  for  each  gallon;  stir  well  to  melt  the  sugar, 
then  pour  this  liquor  over  the  peaches;  cork  the  jars  so  no  air  whatever  can  enter  and  lay  aside 
in  a  cool  place. 

(3664).  CANNED  OHEEEIES  (Cerises  en  Boites), 

Suppress  the  stalks  and  pips  from  some  fine,  very  ripe  but  sound  cherries;  range  them  at  once 
in  tin  cans  of  a  quart  capacity  and  cover  with  a  twenty-five  degree  cold  syrup;  put  on  the  lids  and 
solder  tightly.  Stand  these  cans  in  a  large  saucepanful  of  cold  water,  set  it  covered  on  the  fire 
and  boil  the  water  for  seven  minutes,  then  remove  at  once  from  the  fire  and  allow  the  cans  to  cool 
off  in  the  liquid. 

(3665).  CANNED  PEAES  (Poires  en  Boites). 

Select  pears  that  are  ripe  yet  firm  (Sickle  pears  in  preference);  peel,  turning  them  round,  and 
empty  with  a  vegetable  scoop  to  remove  all  the  pips,  blanch  and  refresh.  Drain  as  soon  as  they 
are  properly  cooled  off  and  range  them  in  tin  cans  each  of  a  quart  capacity;  fill  the  can  nine- 
tenths  full  with  a  fifteen-degree  cold  syrup;  cover  and  solder.  Range  these  cans  in  a  large  sauce- 
pan, immerse  them  in  cold  water,  place  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  remove  the  cans,  tap 
a  small  hole  in  the  center  to  allow  the  air  to  escape,  solder  it  up  immediately  and  boil  for  five 
minutes  longer. 


CONFECTIONERY.  1051 

(3666).  CANNED  PINEAPPLE   (Ananas  en  Boltes). 

Pare  neatly  some  fine  ripe  pineapples;  remove  the  hard  centers  with  a  tin  tube,  then  split  them 
lengthwise  in  two;  cut  across  in  quarter-inch  thick  slices  and  range  these  in  tin  cans  of  one  quart 
capacity  each.  Fill  the  cans  nine-tenths  full  with  cold  twelve-degree  syrup;  cover  and  solder,  then 
place  them  in  a  large  saucepanful  of  cold  water  so  they  are  entirely  submerged,  and  covering  the  pan 
stand  on  the  fire  and  allow  the  liquid  to  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  cans,  punch  a  small 
hole  on  top  to  allow  the  air  to  escape  and  solder  immediately;  replace  the  saucepan  and  allow  to 
boil  five  minutes  more.  If  whole  pineapples,  merely  cored,  are  used  instead  of  slices  they  will 
require  forty  minutes  boiling,  and  if  not  cored  one  hour  will  be  found  a  correct  time. 

(3667).  CELERY  HEARTS,  CRYSTALLIZED  (Oomrs  de  Offleri  Cristallise"s). 
Peel  the  hearts  of  some  small  celery  stalks;  parboil  them  well  in  acidulated  water,  and  when 
very  tender  drain  and  wipe  on  a  cloth;  range  them  in  a  flat  dish  and  cover  with  a  cold  twenty- 
five  degree  syrup.  Six  hours  after  drain  off  this  syrup  and  mix  in  with  it  some  sugar  steeped  in 
water  and  cooked  to  thirty  degrees,  adding  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  pour  this  again  over  the  celery 
hearts  and  six  hours  later  recommence  the  operation.  When  cold  dress  into  a  preserve  dish  with 
the  syrup  poured  over. 

(3668).  APPLE  AND  ORANGE  JELLY  (Gelfe  de  Pommes  et  Gelee  d'Oranges). 

Cut  two  dozen  russet  apples  in  slices,  lay  them  in  a  basin  with  water  to  cover;  cook  tender, 
then  pour  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain  off  the  juice,  collecting  it  in  a  bowl;  filter  this  through  a  flannel 
bag  and  put  it  into  the  basin  again  with  the  same  weight  of  sugar;  dissolve  thoroughly,  mixing 
together  with  a  skimmer,  then  set  the  basin  on  the  fire  and  cook  until  the  syrup  coats  the  spatula 
and  falls  down  in  beads;  stir  continuously  with  the  skimmer.  As  soon  as  the  liquid  reaches  the 
proper  degree  pour  it  at  once  into  stone  pots  or  glasses  previously  heated ;  leave  to  cool  thoroughly. 
Lay  on  the  jelly  a  round  of  paper  soaked  in  brandy,  and  afterward  cover  the  glasses  with  strong 
paper  or  parchment. 

Orange  Jelly. — Remove  the  peel  from  a  few  nice  oranges,  cut  it  in  very  thin  shreds,  blanch 
them  well  and  then  drain.  Pare  the  oranges  to  the  pulp.  Prepare  some  apple  jelly,  as  explained 
above,  and  when  it  is  nearly  cooked  add  to  it  the  blanched  peel  and  the  pared  oranges;  mix  well 
and  when  cooked  pour  into  small  jars  or  glasses  previously  heated  in  boiling  water. 

(3669).  CHERRY  JELLY  WITH  KIRSCH  (Gele"e  de  Cerises  an  Kirsch). 

Stone  three  pounds  of  cherries,  pound  six  ounces  of  the  kernels  with  one  pound  of  currants 
and  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  cherries  in  a  copper  pan  on  a  slow  fire  and  reduce  to 
half,  then  add  three  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pound  of  the  strained  currant  and  kernel  juice,  and 
continue  to  cook  until  a  drop  of  it  placed  on  a  flat  surface  will  not  spread;  now  put  in  half  a  gill 
of  kirsch  and  pour  at  once  into  jars  to  leave  in  a  cool  place  until  thoroughly  cold;  cover  with  a 
round  of  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  and  close  the  pots  hermetically  with  their  respective  covers. 

(3670).  CURRANT  JELLY  AND  PLAIN  CURRANT  JELLY;  CRANBERRY  JELLY  (Gelee  de 
Groseille  et  Gele"e  de  Groseille  Simple ;  Gelee  de  Canneberges). 

Have  one  pound  of  currants  free  of  stalks  and  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar;  mix  both  together 
in  a  vessel  without  crusting  the  currants;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved  pour  the  whole  into  a  copper 
pan  and  stand  it  on  the  fire;  after  it  has  been  boiling  for  five  or  six  minutes  the  syrup  will  have 
cooked  to  the  proper  degree,  that  is,  until  it  coats  the  skimmer  and  drops  from  it  in  beads.  Now 
pour  the  fruit  and  syrup  on  to  a  sieve  laid  over  a  vessel  fit  to  receive  the  liquid,  and  use  this  to  fill 
jelly  glasses;  keep  slightly  warm  for  two  hours,  then  leave  to  cool  before  covering  the  glasses  with 
paper. 

Another  way  is  to  select  the  currants  when  not  too  ripe;  pick  off  all  the  stalks  and  put  the 
fruit  in  a  copper  pan  with  three-quarters  of  their  weight  of  powdered  sugar;  when  this  is  partly 
melted  stand  the  pan  on  a  slow  fire  to  bring  the  liquid  to  a  boil  while  skimming;  boil  it  once  or 
twice  only;  skim  well,  strain  through  a  napkin  and  pour  into  jelly  glasses. 

Plain. — Slightly  cook  ten  pounds  of  currants  with  their  stalks  in  a  copper  pan;  pass  them  through 
a  sieve  having  sufficiently  fine  meshes  to  prevent  the  seeds  from  passing;  mix  an  equal  weight  of 


1052  THE    EPICUREAN. 

sugar  to  this  juice;  cook  until  it  coats  the  skimmer  and  drops  from  it  in  beads,  being  careful  to 
skim  during  the  whole  process  of  cooking.  Fill  some  heated  glasses  or  jars,  and  when  cold  cover 
with  a  round  of  paper  soaked  in  brandy,  then  cover  the  top  of  the  vessel  with  strong  paper. 

Cranberry  Jelly. — Crush  about  two  pounds  of  very  ripe  cranberries,  dilute  with  a  little  water 
and  strain  the  juice  through  a  jelly  bag.  Pour  this  juice  into  an  untinned  copper  pan  and  add  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  liquid;  let  it  cook  on  a  good  fire  to  the  consistency  of  a  jelly,  fol- 
lowing the  directions  found  in  No.  3668.  As  soon  as  it  is  finished  pour  it  into  small  pots  or 
glasses  and  leave  to  cool  off.  When  the  jelly  is  perfectly  cold  cover  with  round  pieces  of  paper 
dipped  in  brandy,  and  cork  up  the  pots  or  glasses  to  close  them  hermetically. 

(3671).  CURRANT  JELLY  AND  CURRANT  JELLY  WITH  APPLES  (Gele"e  de  Groseille  et  Gele"e 

de  Groseille  aux  Pommes). 

Pick  some  not  too  ripe  red  currants  from  their  stalks;  lay  them  in  a  copper  preserving  pan 
and  set  this  on  the  fire;  as  soon  as  the  fruits  have  dissolved  strain  the  juice  forcibly  through  a 
cloth  into  a  vessel;  pour  this  back  into  the  pan  and  add  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  for  each 
quart  of  juice.  When  the  sugar  has  all  melted  place  the  pan  on  a  hot  fire  and  cook  it  until  the 
preparation  dropped  from  the  skimmer  forms  into  a  jelly,  or  else  if  a  drop  be  placed  on  a  flat  sur- 
face it  will  retain  the  shape  of  a  bead  and  not  spread,  being  careful  to  stir  the  liquid  continuously 
with  a  skimmer.  As  soon  as  the  jelly  is  cooked  pour  it  into  stone  pots  or  heated  glasses.  In 
order  to  have  it  fine  and  clear  no  more  than  two  gallons  should  be  cooked  at  once. 

Currant  Jelly  with  Apples. — Prepare  the  currant  juice  as  above  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
liquid  in  which  apples  have  been  cooked,  then  finish  as  for  the  above,  when  a  currant  and  apple 
jelly  will  be  obtained. 

(3672).  QUINCE  JELLY  (Gele"e  de  Goings). 

Choose  well-ripened,  good,  sound  quinces;  peel,  cut  in  four,  and  immerse  them  in  a  basin  of 
water.  Cover  the  basin,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  cook  the  quinces  thoroughly,  then  pour  them  on 
a  sieve  to  drain  off  the  juice,  collecting  it  in  a  bowl.  Filter  this  juice  through  a  flannel  bag,  return 
it  to  the  bowl,  add  the  same  weight  of  sugar,  cook  and  finish  the  same  as  apple  jelly. 

(3673).  CLEAR  GRAPE  JUICE  AND  STRAWBERRY  JUICE  (Jus  de  Raisin  Glair  et  Jus  de  Praises). 

Gather  the  grapes  when  quite  ripe,  place  them  in  a  vessel  and  pound  without  mashing  them 
too  much,  to  extricate  as  little  coloring  matter  as  possible.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  thick  flannel 
bag  to  filter  the  juice,  letting  it  fall  into  a  porcelain  or  glass  receptacle.  Commence  the  operation 
again,  and  continue  to  filter  the  juice  through  the  bag  until  it  flows  out  quite  clear.  After  all  the 
juice  has  been  filtered  pour  it  into  small  strong  bottles  (small  champagne  bottles),  and  cork  with 
sound  corks,  driving  them  in  with  a  mallet;  tie  the  corks  down  with  strings  attached  to  the  necks 
of  the  bottles,  then  stand  them  upright,  slightly  apart,  in  a  deep  saucepan  or  soup  pot,  and  cover  to 
the  height  of  the  bottles  with  cold  water.  Place  the  pot  on  a  moderate  fire,  boil  for  ten  to  twelve 
minutes,  remove  and  leave  the  bottles  cool  in  the  water,  only  taking  them  out  when  thoroughly 
cold.  Cut  the  strings  and  lay  the  bottles  down  flat,  keeping  them  in  a  very  cool  place. 

Crush  some  very  ripe  strawberries  and  press  them  on  a  wire  sieve  sufficiently  fine  not  to  permit 
the  seeds  to  pass  through.  With  this  juice  fill  some  one-quart  bottles,  close  well,  tying  the  corks 
on  with  a  string.  Range  these  bottles  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water  and  stand  it  on  the 
range.  Watch  the  time  when  the  water  begins  to  boil  and  leave  them  in  for  only  half  an  hour, 
then  take  the  saucepan  at  once  from  the  fire  and  leave  the  bottles  cool  off  thoroughly  in  the  liquid. 
When  cold  lift  them  out,  wipe  dry,  cut  the  strings  and  lay  them  down,  piling  one  on  top  of  the 
other  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  inclining  the  bottles  a  little  forward  so  that  the  juice  rests  against  the 
cork. 

(3674).  APPLE  MARMALADE  OR  JAM  (Marmelade  de  Pommes). 

Quarter  some  apples,  core  and  cut  up  small;  put  them  into  a  basin  with  the  juice  of  several 
lemons  and  a  little  water;  cook.  As  soon  as  done  pour  on  a  sieve  to  drain,  pressing  them  through 
afterward.  Add  to  this  pulp  three-quarters  of  its  weight  of  lump  sugar,  and  stir  well  together. 
Pour  it  all  into  a  tinned  copper  pan  and  stand  it  on  the  fire  to  cook  the  marmalade  until  it 
coats  the  spatula  and  drops  from  it  in  beads;  stir  continuously  with  a  spatula.  As  soon  as  it  is  done 
pour  into  stone  pots  that  have  been  previously  heated. 


CONFECTIONERY.  1053 

(3675).    APEIOOT  OE  PEACH  MAKMALADE  OR  JAM  (Marmelade  d'Abricots  on  Mannelade 

de  Peches). 

Split  some  very  ripe  apricots  or  peaches  in  two,  suppress  the  kernels,  mince  and  put  them  into 
a  copper  pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  water.  Melt  over  the  fire,  stirring  constantly  with  a  spatula, 
then  strain  the  pulp  through  a  sieve  and  weigh  it.  Cook  three-quarters  of  its  weight  of  sugar  to 
"  small  crack  "  (No.  171);  when  it  has  attained  this  degree  remove  from  the  fire  and  pour  the  pulp 
into  it,  stirring  vigorously;  continue  to  cook  until  it  coats  the  skimmer  and  the  jelly  drops  in  beads, 
then  transfer  immediately  to  stone  pots  or  glasses  heated  beforehand.  The  jam  must  be  quite  cold 
before  covering  it  over;  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Apple,  Apricot,  Peach,  Quince  and  Chestnut  Paste. — Prepare  a  puree  of  apples,  apricots, 
peaches,  quinces  or  chestnuts;  add  to  either  one  of  these  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  cooked 
to  "  small  crack  "  (No.  171);  reduce  until  the  preparation  detaches  itself  from  the  pan;  spread  this 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  on  sheets  of  tin  or  it  may  be  pushed  through  a  cornet  in  rounds. 
Put  in  a  hot  closet  for  two  days,  remove  from  the  tins  and  when  cut  roll  in  coarse  powdered  sugar. 

(3676).  FIG  AND  ORANGE  MARMALADE  OR  JAM  (Mannelade  de  Figues  et  d'Oranges). 

Select  large  white,  ripe,  but  very  firm  figs;  remove  the  skins  and  cut  up  the  fruits;  weigh,  and 
for  each  pound  allow  seven  ounces  of  sugar  dissolved  in  a  little  water.  Boil  this  up  once  or  twice, 
put  in  the  figs  and  cook  until  the  marmalade  coats  the  skimmer  and  drops  from  it  in  beads,  then 
pour  into  glass  jars  previously  heated. 

Orange  Marmalade.— Choose  some  not  too  ripe  oranges,  remove  their  zests  with  the  knife 
shown  in  Fig.  156,  prick  them  with  a  coarse  needle  and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  boiling  water; 
cover  them  over  to  cook  until  the  remaining  skin  becomes  softened,  then  place  in  an  abundance  of 
cold  water  for  twenty-four  hours.  Drain,  open  them,  suppress  the  seeds,  and  pass  the  orange  and 
peel  through  a  sieve.  Cook  the  same  weight  of  sugar  to  "  ball"  (No.  171)  as  there  is  orange,  mix 
both  together  and  cook  until  the  marmalade  falls  from  the  skimmer  in  a  sheet. 

(3677).    MELON  MARMALADE  OR  JAM  (Marmelade  de  Meldn), 

Suppress  all  the  rind  and  seeds  from  the  fruit  and  rub  this  through  a  sieve.  If  very  sweet 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  will  suffice  for  each  pound  of  pulp;  reduce  the  marmalade  in  a  cop- 
per pan  until  it  covers  the  skimmer  and  drops  from  it  in  beads,  then  pour  it  into  glasses. 

(3678).  LARGE  WHITE  CURRANTS,  BAR-LE-DUO  JELLY  (Confiture  de  Groseilles  de  Bar-le-Duc), 
Have  one  pound  of  large  picked  white  currants  and  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar;  seed  the  fruits, 
using  a  pointed  goose  quill,  and  lay  them  in  a  vessel.  Put  half  a  pound  of  the  sugar  into  a  sugar 
pan  with  two  gills  of  water,  let  it  soak,  then  cook  it  to  "  bead  "  (No.  171);  mix  in  the  berries,  leaving 
their  juice  in  the  vessel,  and  place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  range;  five  minutes  later  pour  both 
fruits  and  liquid  into  a  bowl,  and  three  hours  after  lay  a  small  sieve  over  the  sugar  pan  and  pour  the 
fruits  and  syrup  into  this.  Mix  with  the  syrup  half  of  the  remaining  sugar,  and  let  it  melt 
thoroughly,  then  cook  it  until  it  coats  the  skimmer  and  drops  from  it  in  beads;  return  the  cur- 
rants to  the  syrup;  give  them  a  single  boil  and  return  the  whole  to  the  bowl.  Four  hours 
after  strain  the  syrup  into  the  pan  again,  put  the  rest  of  the  sugar  with  it  and  cook  once  more 
until  it  coats  the  skimmer;  now  add  the  currants  and  boil  the  whole  up  once.  Set  the  pan 
back  on  the  range  for  five  minutes,  but  so  that  the  syrup  does  not  boil.  Pour  the  jam  into  small 
jelly  glasses;  let  get  very  cold  before  closing  with  paper.  A  few  spoonfuls  of  clear  apple  juice  can 
be  added  if  necessary  to  give  more  consistency  to  the  preserve. 

(3679).    PRESERVED  GREENGAGES  (Reines-Claude  Confites). 

Take  twenty  pounds  of  very  green  and  sound  greengages,  prick  the  surfaces  with  a  large  pin 
and  throw  into  a  panful  of  cold  water.  Fill  an  untinned  copper  pan  holding  ten  gallons  three- 
quarters  full  of  water;  add  a  heavy  handful  of  salt,  three  gills  of  vinegar  and  three  handfuls  of 
spinach;  stir  the  liquid  so  all  the  ingredients  are  properly  mingled;  drain  the  gages  from  their  water 
and  throw  them  into  the  copper  pan;  stand  it  on  the  fire.  After  the  water  begins  to  heat  stir  the 
fruits  around  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  and  as  soon  as  they  float  on  the  surface  take  them  out  and 
throw  into  a  panful  of  cold  water;  place  under  a  faucet  and  allow  the  water  to  flow  over  them. 
Prepare  a  twelve-degree  syrup;  drain  the  greengages  properly  and  throw  them  into  this,  then  let 
boil  up  once,  pouring  them  afterward  into  shallow  vessels  to  leave  for  twelve  hours.  Drain  off  the 


1054  THE    EPICUREAN. 

syrup,  add  a  little  sugar,  and  boil  it  again  several  times  until  it  attains  fourteen  degrees,  then 
throw  it  over  the  fruits  and  let  stand  again  for  twelve  hours.  Continue  this  operation  daily  until 
the  syrup  reaches  thirty  degrees;  for  the  last  time  drain  off  the  syrup  once  more,  and  boil  it  to 
thirty-two  degrees;  then  put  in  the  fruits,  boil  up  once  and  transfer  the  whole  to  jars;  close  her- 
metically as  soon  as  cold  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

(3680).  PEESEEVED  LIMES  (Limons  Confits). 

Remove  the  cores  from  the  limes  with  a  quarter-inch  tin  tube  and  leave  them  to  soak  in  a 
pailful  of  water,  adding  a  heavy  handful  of  salt;  let  them  remain  four  hours  in  this,  then  drain 
and  throw  them  into  a  large  basin  of  boiling  water  to  blanch.  As  soon  as  soft  take  them  up 
one  by  one  and  put  into  a  pailful  of  cold  water  to  refresh,  changing  it  at  frequent  intervals.  To 
have  them  turn  green  again,  put  ten  quarts  of  water  in  an  untiuned  copper  pan,  add  two 
heaping  handfuls  of  kitchen  salt,  half  a  pint  of  vinegar  and  a  few  handfuls  of  spinach;  stand 
this  vessel  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  a  few  moments;  drain  the  limes  from  their  water  and  throw  them 
into  this  while  still  in  the  act  of  boiling,  allowing  them  to  boil  up  several  times.  Take  the  basin 
from  the  fire  and  leave  the  fruits  therein  for  three  or  four  hours;  they  should  now  have  assumed 
their  natural  color.  Drain  and  plunge  them  into  a  pailful  of  cold  water  for  twelve  hours,  changing 
it  frequently  during  this  time.  Prepare  a  fifteen-degree  syrup.  As  soon  as  it  boils  drain  the  limes 
and  throw  them  into  this,  boil  up  once,  then  transfer  the  whole  to  vessels  and  leave  in  a  cool  place 
for  twelve  hours.  The  following  day  pour  off  the  syrup  and  cook  it  to  sixteen  degrees,  throw  it 
once  more  over  the  fruits,  leaving  it  for  twelve  hours;  drain  the  syrup  again,  boil  until  it  reaches 
twenty  degrees,  then  pour  it  over  the  limes  and  leave  for  twelve  hours  longer,  repeating  the  pro- 
cess every  twelve  hours  until  the  syrup  reaches  thirty-two  degrees,  then  pour  it  back  into  the  basin 
and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil  throw  in  the  limes  and  boil  up  once.  Transfer  them  immediately 
to  their  respective  stone  jars,  cool  and  close  hermetically. 

(3681).  PEESEEVED  OEANGE  OE  LEMON  PEEL  (Ecorces  d'Oranges  ou  de  Citrons  Confites). 

Cut  some  oranges  or  lemons  in  four,  remove  the  pulp  and  put  the  peels  in  a  basin  with  water; 
blanch  thoroughly.  When  they  are  soft  to  the  touch  take  from  the  fire,  drain  and  put  them  in  a 
panful  of  cold  water;  leave  to  soak  for  twenty-four  hours,  changing  the  liquid  from  time  to  time, 
or,  if  possible,  stand  the  pan  under  the  faucet  and  let  the  water  run  over  continuously,  then  drain. 
Eange  the  peels  in  a  vessel,  cover  with  a  boiling  syrup  at  fifteen  degrees  and  leave  them  in  for 
twelve  hours;  at  the  expiration  of  that  time  drain  off  the  syrup,  boil  it  up  to  eighteen  degrees, 
then  pour  it  again  over  the  peels,  leaving  them  steep  for  ten  or  twelve  hours.  Repeat  this  opera- 
tion six  or  seven  times,  gradually  increasing  the  strength  of  the  syrup  until  it  reaches  thirty-two 
degrees.  The  last  time  prepare  a  fresh  thirty-two  degree  syrup.  Drain  the  fruits  from  the  syrup 
they  are  in  and  put  them  into  this  fresh  one  that  is  in  the  act  of  boiling;  boil  up  once;  remove 
from  the  fire  and  lay  them  in  stone  pots,  covering  with  this  last  syrup;  close  hermetically  when 
quite  cold. 

(3682).  WHOLE  PEACHES,  PEESEEVED— LAEGE  (Grosses  Peches  Entieres  CoBfites). 
The  Brothers  Carresa,  of  Nice,  France,  prepare  boxes  of  preserved  peaches,  each  one  containing 
only  four,  but  of  extraordinary  size;  in  the  boxes  are  also  leaves,  blanched  with  acid;  they  can  be 
arranged  so  exquisitely  that  they  easily  pass  for  fine  fresh  ones.  Drain  off  the  peaches  one  by  one, 
wipe  dry  on  a  fine  cloth,  then  tint  their  surfaces  with  powdered  carmine  dissolved  in  water  and 
pounded  with  the  finger.  This  first  layer  should  only  be  slightly  tinted,  then  begin  again  on  eacb 
side  of  the  parting  division,  spreading  the  color  over  well  with  the  finger  so  as  to  represent  the 
bright  shades  of  a  fresh  peach.  As  soon  as  they  are  tinted  place  them  on  a  dish  and  cover  entirely 
with  clear  jelly,  applying  it  with  a  brush.  First  dress  three  of  these  peaches  in  a  preserve  dish 
and  lay  the  fourth  one  on  top  of  the  under  triangle;  surround  with  a  few  peach  leaves  and  pour 
some  thick  syrup  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  being  careful  not  to  spill  any  over  the  peaches. 

(3683).  CANDIED  AND  OEYSTALLIZED  FEUITS  (Fruits  Confits  Glacis  et  Oristallise~s). 

Apricots,  green  almonds,  greengages,  mirabelles,  cherries,  and  in  fact  all  preserved  fruits, 
must  first  be  washed  in  hot  water  to  remove  the  sugar  adhering  to  them,  then  drain  and  leave 
to  dry  properly.  After  these  fruits  are  very  dry  arrange  them  in  a  single  layer,  one  beside  the 
other,  in  a  candy  pan  having  a  grate  on  the  bottom;  when  this  first  grate  is  full  lay  another  one 
on  top  and  fill  it  the  same  as  the  other,  and  continue  thus  until  they  reach  to  slightly  below  the 


CONFECTIONERY.  1055 

edges  of  the  candy  pan.  Cover  the  last  layer  of  fruits  with  another  grate,  and  on  it  lay  a  weight 
to  keep  the  fruits  submerged  in  the  syrup.  Now  cook  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sugar  to  thirty- four 
degrees  to  cover  the  whole  of  the  fruit  and  pour  it  over  as  soon  as  done;  put  these  fruits  in  a  hot 
closet  and  leave  without  disturbing  for  twelve  hours;  at  the  end  of  that  time  drain  the  fruits  from 
this  syrup,  lay  them  on  dry  grates  and  leave  till  very  dry.  A  good  way  to  judge  of  the  thickness 
of  the  layers  of  candy  is  to  put  small  pieces  of  wood  reaching  above  the  edges  of  the  candy  pan 
into  the  corners  at  the  same  time  as  the  fruits.  After  a  few  hours  take  out  one  of  these  pieces  of 
wood,  drain  it  well  and  see  whether  it  be  covered  with  a  sufficiently  thick  layer  of  candy;  if  the 
layer  attached  to  this  piece  of  wood  be  the  desired  thickness  then  certainly  the  fruit  should  be 
covered  the  same,  and  if  not  thick  enough  then  leave  the  fruits  in  the  closet  for  a  longer  time. 
After  the  lapse  of  a  short  time  draw  out  another  one  of  the  sticks  and  observe  it  the  same  as  the 
first,  and  continue  this  operation  until  the  candy  be  of  the  desired  thickness;  then  drain  off  the 
fruits  and  dry  them  the  same  as  described  above. 

Preserved  Pears. — Choose  fine,  sound  Sickle  pears  in  preference  to  others;  peel  them  round, 
suppress  the  cores  with  a  small  vegetable  spoon,  and  lay  them  at  once  in  cold  water;  drain  from 
this  and  blanch,  taking  them  out  one  by  one  as  soon  as  they  rise  on  the  surface  of  the  boiling 
liquid  and  throw  them  into  a  panful  of  cold  water  to  refresh.  Drain  immediately;  put  them  into 
a  boiling  syrup  at  twelve  degrees,  leave  in  a  cool  place  for  twelve  hours;  drain  the  syrup,  adding  a 
little  sugar  to  bring  to  fourteen  degrees,  pour  it  over  the  pears,  and  the  next  day  draw  this  off,  add 
a  little  sugar  to  bring  the  syrup  to  sixteen  degrees,  and  continue  the  process  daily,  each  time  augment- 
ing the  syrup  two  degrees  until  it  has  reached  thirty  degrees;  now  drain  off  this  syrup  from  the 
pears,  boil  it  up  by  itself  once  or  twice,  and  when  it  attains  thirty-two  degrees  put  in  the  fruit; 
give  it  one  more  boil  and  transfer  the  whole  to  jars  to  cool.  As  soon  as  cold  close  hermetically 
and  leave  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Preserved  Fruits  Coated  with  Grained  Sugar. — To  coat  preserved  fruits  with  grained  sugar 
proceed  the  same  as  for  fruits  with  candy.  Cook  some  sugar  to  "  thread  "  (No.  171),  take  from  the 
fire  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  spread  a  layer  on  the  sides  of  the  pan  in  which  it  has  been  cooked 
and  rub  it  on  for  a  few  seconds  with  the  spoon.  As  soon  as  this  rubbed  sugar  begins  to  whiten 
mix  it  with  the  remainder  of  the  sugar,  then  dip  in  the  fruits,  using  a  fork,  and  range  them  at  once 
on  a  grate,  leaving  them  till  the  sugar  be  dry. 

Preserved  and  Fresh  Fruits  Coated  with  Caramel. — For  preserved  fruits  that  have  to  be 
coated  with  caramel,  proceed  first  by  washing  them  in  hot  water,  drain  and  cut  them  into  halves 
or  quarters,  or  leave  whole,  according  to  necessity  and  to  the  nature  of  the  fruits,  then  stick  them 
on  wires  pierced  into  a  cork  and  leave  them  to  dry.  When  ready,  cook  some  sugar  to  "large 
crack  "  (No.  171),  or  three  hundred  and  forty  degrees.  As  soon  as  it  has  attained  this  heat  take 
it  at  once  from  the  fire  and  dip  in  the  fruits,  then  lay  them  on  a  marble  to  drain  and  cool;  when 
nearly  cold  pull  out  the  wires. 

For  Quartered  Oranges. — Peel  and  separate  in  sections,  leave  to  dry,  then  dip  them  in  the 
sugar,  using  a  pair  of  pastry  pincers,  and  then  lay  them  one  by  one  on  a  slightly  greased  marble. 

For  Grapes. — Take  them  off  their  stalks  and  dip  them  the  same  way  as  the  oranges.  These 
fruits  are  used  for  decorating  pyramids  and  for  cases  of  iced  fruits. 

(3684).  PEESEEVED  PINEAPPLE  (Ananas  Oonfits). 

Pare  some  very  ripe  pineapples  to  the  pulp,  suppress  the  cores  with  a  tin  tube  and  cut 
them  up  into  quarter-inch  thick  crosswise  slices;  throw  them  immediately  into  a  panful  of  cold 
water,  drain  and  put  them  into  a  basin  of  boiling  water  to  blanch,  refreshing  afterward  in  a  pan- 
ful of  cold  water.  Prepare  a  twelve-degree  syrup,  add  to  it  the  well-drained  pineapple  and  boil 
up  once.  Now  transfer  to  vessels  to  leave  stand  for  twelve  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  drain 
off  the  syrup  and  pour  it  into  a  copper  pan.  Add  a  little  sugar,  boil  to  bring  it  to  fourteen 
degrees,  then  add  the  pineapple;  twelve  hours  later  boil  the  syrup  a  little  more,  until  it 
reaches  sixteen  degrees;  pour  it  over  the  fruit  and  continue  this  same  process  until  the  syrup  is  at 
thirty  degrees;  when  this  takes  place  boil  up  several  times,  throw  in  the  sliced  pineapple  and  leave 
them  for  a  few  moments,  then  transfer  the  whole  to  jars;  when  cold  close  hermetically  and  keep  in 
a  cool,  dry  place. 

(3685).  PEESEEVED  QUINCES  (Goings  Oonfits). 

Quarter  some  good,  sound  quinces;  peel,  core  and  throw  them  at  once  into  cold  water,  then 
plunge  them  into  boiling  water  and  boil  until  they  become  quite  tender.  Refresh,  drain  and  range 


1056  THE    EPICUREAN. 

them  in  wide,  shallow  vessels;  cover  with  boiling  syrup  at  fifteen  degrees  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  for  twenty  to  twenty-four  hours;  drain  off  the  syrup,  add  a  little  sugar,  boil  up  and  let  it 
attain  two  degrees  more;  continue  the  same  process  until  it  reaches  thirty  degrees;  then  drain  the 
syrup  again,  add  a  little  more  sugar  and  boil  until  it  reaches  thirty-two  degrees,  then  put  in  the 
fruits  and  boil  up  once.  Pour  into  stone  jars  and  when  cold  close  hermetically. 

(3686).  STEWED  APPLES  WITH  JELLY  (Compote  de  Pommes  a  la  Gelfie), 
Peel  some  fine  medium-sized  apples;  suppress  the  cores  with  a  tin  tube,  rub  the  surfaces  with 
half  a  lemon  and  cook  in  a  twelve-degree  acidulated  syrup,  being  careful  to  keep  them  whole.  As 
soon  as  done  drain  and  range  in  a  tureen,  cover  with  fresh  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees,  leaving  to 
cool  in  this;  keep  the  syrup  they  were  cooked  in  for  further  use.  Drain  the  apples  from  their 
syrup  and  dress  on  a  compote  dish ;  filter  the  syvup  kept  aside,  add  a  little  sugar  to  it  and  cook  it 
to  the  consistency  of  a  jelly  (see  apple  jelly,  No.  3668);  leave  this  stand  for  one  moment  on  the 
corner  of  the  range,  then  pour  it  over  the  apples;  serve  when  cold. 

(3687).  STEWED  BANANAS  (Compote  de  Bananes). 

Skin  some  sound  bananas;  suppress  the  coarse  threads  and  throw  them  immediately  into  boil- 
ing water;  drain  at  once,  then  transfer  them  to  a  hot  twenty-eight  degree  syrup;  leave  to  cool  in 
this.  Drain  once  more,  range  them  pyramidically  in  a  compote  dish  and  cover  with  their  own 
syrup;  they  are  now  ready. 

(3688).  STEWED  CELERIES  (Compote  de  Cerises). 

Cut  the  stalks  halfway  up  from  a  pound  of  fine,  large,  sour  cherries.  Boil  a  light  syrup  in  a 
sugar  pan,  just  having  sufficient  to  cover  the  fruit,  then  throw  in  the  cherries;  toss  them  for  two 
minutes,  boiling  the  liquid  up  once  only,  then  pour  the  whole  into  a  bowl  to  leave  till  cold.  Lay 
both  syrup  and  fruits  on  a  sieve  placed  on  top  of  the  sugar  pan  and  take  away  some  of  the  fallen 
syrup,  pouring  sufficient  sugar  into  the  remainder  that  when  boiled  again  it  forms  a  thick  syrup;  as 
this  becomes  almost  cold  add  the  cherries  to  it,  take  from  the  fire  and  half  an  hour  later  dress 
the  stewed  fruit. 

(3689).  STEWED  OB21STNUTS  (Compote  de  Marrons). 

Suppress  the  shells  from  two  pounds  of  fresh  chestnuts  without  breaking  the  meats;  soak  them 
for  seven  or  eight  hours  in  cold  water  with  a  little  citric  acid  added.  Drain  and  place  in  a  recently 
tinned  saucepan  with  plenty  of  water,  having  a  bag  containing  bran.  At  the  first  boil  remove  the 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  so  that  the  liquid  only  quivers  for  two  hours,  being  careful  to  replace 
at  times  a  part  of  the  black  water  by  a  little  clean  boiling  water,  so  as  to  keep  the  chestnuts 
as  white  as  possible.  "When  tender  but  yet  whole,  drain  off  a  few  at  a  time  to  peel  without  get- 
ting cold,  then  put  them  at  once  into  another  saucepan  with  tepid  syrup  cooked  to  twelve  degrees 
and  half  a  stick  of  split  vanilla;  use  only  the  whole  chestnuts.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  keep  it  on 
one  side  of  the  range  to  have  the  liquid  hot  without  boiling,  and  two  hours  after  drain  off  half  the 
syrup,  replacing  it  by  a  stronger  hot  one  of  thirty  degrees;  keep  the  chestnuts  in  this  for  one  hour 
on  the  side  of  the  fire.  Drain  them  again  delicately  one  by  one  to  dress  on  a  compote  dish;  strain 
the  syrup,  reduce  it  to  twenty-eight  degrees,  and  when  cold  pour  it  over  the  chestnuts. 

(3690).  STEWED  OKANGES  AND  ORANGE  SALADS  (Compote  d'Oranges  et  Salade  d'Orange). 

Cut  each  of  four  or  five  good  oranges  into  six  parts;  pare  them  to  the  pulp,  suppressing  the 
peels  and  white  skin,  then  extract  the  seeds.  Put  the  oranges  into  a  bowl  and  pour  over  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  thirty-degree  cold  syrup  flavored  with  orange  peel  and  a  little  kirsch;  half  an  hour 
after  dress  the  fruits  with  the  syrup  poured  over. 

Orange  Salad. — Select  sweet,  juicy  oranges,  peel  them  to  the  pulp,  cut  in  crosswise  slices,  and 
range  them  in  a  circle  in  a  dish;  bestrew  with  sugar  and  pour  rum  over. 

Orange  and  Apple  Salad. — Peel  some  fine,  sound  apples,  core  and  cut  them  up  into  thin  slices, 
dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  with  slices  of  orange  between  each  piece  of  apple,  throw  powdered 
sugar  over,  and  pour  on  some  kirsch  and  rum. 


CONFECTIONERY.  1057 

(3691),  STEWED  PEACHES  OR  APEIOOTS  (Compote  de  Peches  ou  d'Abricots). 

Select  very  fine,  sound,  ripe  peaches  or  apricots,  cut  them  in  two,  peel  and  lay  them  in  a 
twenty-eight  degree  boiling  syrup;  leave  to  quiver  for  a  few  moments  on  the  side  of  the  range, 
remove  from  the  fire  and  put  them  into  a  tureen,  leaving  to  cool  in  their  own  syrup;  drain  and 
dress  on  a  compote  dish,  pouring  the  syrup  over. 

(3692),  STEWED  PEAES  (Compote  de  Poires). 

Cut  some  fine  ripe  pears  in  two  or  four,  but  if  small  keep  whole;  throw  them  into  a  saucepan 
containing  cold  water;  blanch  in  hot  water  acidulated  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  drain,  range  in  a 
vessel,  and  cover  with  a  boiling  twenty-eight  degree  syrup;  leave  them  in  this  until  cold,  then 
drain,  dress  and  pour  over  the  syrup  after  reducing  it. 

(3693),  STEWED  PINEAPPLE  (Compote  d'Ananas). 

Pare  neatly  a  fine  pineapple;  remove  the  core  with  a  tin  tube;  split  lengthwise  in  two,  and 
cut  each  half  in  crosswise  slices  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  thick.  Arrange  these  in  a  vessel,  and 
pour  over  some  boiling  thirty-two  degree  syrup,  leaving  them  to  marinate  for  two  hours,  then  dress 
m  A  circle  on  a  compote  dish  and  cover  with  their  own  syrup. 

(3694),  STEWED  PEUNES  (Compote  de  Pruneaux). 

Put  a  pound  of  fine  dried  prunes  in  a  saucepan;  cover  with  water;  place  on  the  range  to  boil 
up  a  few  times  so  they  can  soften,  then  drain  and  cover  with  a  twenty-eight  degree  syrup,  adding 
two  or  three  slices  of  lemon,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon  and  a  quarter  of  a  bottleful  of  red  wine. 
Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  let  the  whole  boil  slowly  until  the  prunes  are  done,  then  leave 
stand  till  cold  and  serve  on  a  compote  dish. 

(3695),  STEWED  STEAWBEEEIES  AND  EASPBEEEIES  AND  STEAWBEEET  AND  EASP- 
BEEEY  JAM  (Compote  de  Praises  et  de  Framboises  et  Marmelade  de  Praises  et  de 
Pramboises), 
Pick  some  fine  not  too  ripe  strawberries  or  raspberries;  cook  some  syrup  to  "ball,"  throw  in 

the  berries  and  pour  the  whole  at  once  carefully  into  a  vessel  to  leave  till  cold.     Drain  and  arrange 

on  a  compote  dish;  pour  part  of  the  syrup  over  and  serve. 

Strawberry  and  Raspberry  Jam. — Choose  two  pounds  of  sound,  ripe  strawberries  or  rasp- 
berries, remove  the  stalks  and  leaves.  Either  crush  or  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Have  an  un- 
tinned  copper  basin  (Fig.  140),  place  the  berries  in  it,  reduce  to  half,  remove  the  basin  from  the 
fire,  then  add  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  cooked  to  "  small  crack"  (No.  171).  Put  on  the  fire 
again,  then  stir  continually  until  reduced  sufficiently  to  see  the  bottom  of  the  basin;  now  pour  it  in 
glasses  or  jars  which  have  been  heated;  when  the  jam  is  cold  cover  with  small  rounds  of  paper, 
dipped  in  brandy,  and  close  the  jars  or  glasses  hermetically  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


1058  THIi:    EPICUREAN. 

SALTED  ALMONDS,  CHEESES  AND  FKESH  FRUITS  (Amandes  Salees, 

Fromages  et  Fruits  Frais), 


(3696).  SALTED  ALMONDS  (Amandes  Salves), 

Select  fine,  whole  almonds,  peel  and  lay  them  on  a  paper-covered  baking  sheet.  Push  this 
into  a  hot  oven  and  when  roasted  to  a  fine  golden  brown  throw  them  into  a  basin  and  sprinkle 
with  a  little  water,  slightly  thickened  with  gum  arabic,  then  dredge  with  very  fine  salt  through  a 
salt  box  having  a  perforated  lid.  Stir  the  almonds  from  time  to  time  until  dry,  then  leave  to  cool. 
Hazel-nuts,  walnuts,  and  pistachios  can  also  be  salted;  these  are  generally  dressed  in  crimped 
paper  cases  or  small  fancy  boxes;  they  are  passed  around  with  the  desert,  or  at  the  same  time  as 
the  hors  d'ceuvre,  and  then  left  on  the  table  during  the  entire  length  of  the  dinner.  It  is  an 
improvement  to  mix  these  nuts  and  serve  them  together. 

(3697).  CHEESES  (Fromages), 

American,  Brie,  Camembert,  Chester  or  Brighton,  Cream,  Briquebec,  Eidam,  Gorgonzola, 
Swiss  or  Gruyere,  Holland,  Munster,  Mont-d'Or,  Neufchatel,  Parmesan,  Pont  Leveque,  Port  Salut, 
Roquefort,  Stilton,  Strachino,  Shedder,  Gervais. 

Cheese  is  served  either  after  the  roast,  before  the  sweet  entremets,  or  else  with  the 
dessert;  the  first  is  most  appropriate.  Cheese  must  be  accompanied  by  crackers  or  very  thin  slices 
of  toast;  it  should  be  cut  in  pieces  or  slices.  At  a  dinner  it  is  better  to  have  two  kinds  handed  to 
the  guests,  with  fresh  butter;  serve  salted  almonds  and  nuts  at  the  same  time.  Stilton  must  be 
served  whole  wrapped  in  a  plaited  napkin;  it  should  be  scooped  out  with  a  cheese  spoon  and  each 
time  it  is  used  the  vacuum  should  be  filled  with  sherry  wine;  it  must  always  be  kept  sufficiently 
damp  to  prevent  cracking.  Chester  should  be  served  the  same  as  Stilton  in  a  plaited  napkin,  after 
paring  it  neatly;  it  should  also  be  cut  with  a  spoon  and  filled  each  time  with  good  Madeira  wine. 
For  Brie,  Camembert,  Mont-d'Or  or  Pont  Leveque:  scrape  any  of  these  cheeses  and  serve  with  a 
silver  knife  for  each  guest.  For  Roquefort  and  Gorgonzola  carefully  suppress  the  outer  rinds  and 
serve  with  silver  knives;  pass  around  at  the  same  time  some  fresh  butter.  Strachino  and  Millanais 
are  serve  in  a  plaited  napkin  folded  to  resemble  a  tulip;  scoop  out  with  a  cheese  spoon  the  same 
as  Stilton.  Holland  cheese  should  be  cut  in  quarters  or  slices.  Neufchatel  should  be  scraped 
and  served  whole.  Swiss  cheese,  Eidam,  Munster,  Port  Salut  and  Briquebec  are  cut  in  slices. 
They  must  be  chosen  very  mellow,  cleaned  and  served  with  silver  knives.  Gervais  is  a  sort  of  fresh 
bondon,  the  paste  being  very  fine;  it  must  be  served  quite  cold.  It  should  be  covered  with  paper, 
to  be  removed  when  sending  to  the  table. 

(3698).  OKEAM  CHEESE  (Fromage  a  la  Creme). 

Put  two  quarts  of  milk  into  a  vessel  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  until  it  curdles,  then  pour  this 
curdled  milk  on  a  hair  sieve  to  drain,  and  pass  it  through  the  same  sieve,  standing  over  a 
deep  vessel;  add  to  it  a  little  salt  and  half  as  much  firmly  beaten,  unsweetened  whipped  cream. 
Take  some  heart-shaped  tin  molds,  perforated  with  small  holes,  each  mold  one  inch  deep  and 
three  and  a  half  inches  long;  line  them  with  pieces  of  muslin  and  fill  with  the  above;  place  these  in 
the  ice-box  for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve  invert  on  a  plate,  lift  off  the  muslin  and  serve, 
accompanied  by  some  thick  and  very  cold  cream. 

(3699).  FKESH  FKUITS  (Fruits  Frais). 

Choose  ripe  fruits;  arrange  them  either  in  baskets,  fruit  stands  or  plates  garnished  with  green 
grape  leaves  and  fresh  moss.  The  base  must  be  solid  so  that  when  carried  they  will  not  be  dis- 
lodged; place  the  handsome  part  of  the  fruit  on  the  outer  side.  Early  fruits  are  always  appre- 
ciated as  they  foretell  those  that  are  to  follow  in  their  season.  Fruits  for  dressing  are  apricots, 
pineapples,  pears,  peaches,  oranges,  lady  apples,  grapes,  cherries  and  strawberries.  In  case  no 
fresh  green  leaves  are  procurable,  use  artificial  ones  made  of  muslin  and  dipped  in  wax.  If  a  pine- 
apple is  to  be  arranged  in  the  center  of  a  basket,  stand  it  on  a  cardboard  cylinder  four  inches  high 
by  thi'ee  inches  in  diameter.  All  fruits  to  be  found  in  New  York  are  designated  on  the  table  for 
the  different  seasons  (see  page  17).  Dry  fruits  consist  of  almonds,  raisins,  figs,  dates,  and  innumer- 
able others. 


CONFECTIONERY. 


1059 


CHOCOLATE,  COFFEES,  KACAHOUT,  TEAS,  ETC,  (Chocolat,  Cafes,  Bacahmt, 

Thes,  Etc, 


(3700).  CHOCOLATE  (Chocolat), 

Have  good,  fine  vanilla  chocolate;  dissolve  it  in  a  tin  saucepan,  or 
better  still  in  a  chocolate  pan  as  shown  in  figure,  using  the  mixer  to 

dissolve  it,  over  a  slow  fire,  using  a  pound 
of  chocolate  for  a  quart  of  water.     When 
well  dissolved  strain  it  through  a  fine 
FIG.  760.  wire  sieve  and  serve  in  a  chocolate  pot 

with  a  jug  of  hot  water,  and  one  of  milk 

and  sugar.     Some  persons  prefer  whipped  cream  in  their  chocolate.     Serve 
brioches,  grissinis,  biscuits  and  other  fancy  breads. 


761. 

same  time 


(3701).  HOW  TO  MAKE  COFFEE  (Maniere  de  Faire  le  Cafe"). 

The  best-known  coffee-pot  is  the  one  with  a  filter,  of  which  a  design  is  shown  (Fig.  762).     They 
are  to  be  had  of  various  sizes  and  more  or  less  luxurious.     To  obtain  a 
limpid  infusion  quickly  place  the  ground  coffee  in  the  cylinder  on  top  of 
the  coffee-pot,  then  put  in  the  strainer  on  top  of  the  coffee,  press  it 
down  and  pour  boiling  water  over  so  that  the  infusion  runs  slowly 
down  into  the  pot.     While   the  infusion  filters  the  coffee-pot  should 
be  kept  in  a  vessel  containing  hot  water  to  the 
depth  of  two  fingers  so  that  the  infusion  attains 
the  same  degree  of  heat   without  allowing  it  to 
boil.     For  the  sake  of  economy,  after  the  infusion 
is  made,  the  grounds  can  be  boiled  up  once  more 
and  an  infusion  prepared  with  it  to  take  the 
place  of  plain  water,  but,  in  order  to  obtain  a 
good  result,  the  grounds  must  first  settle,  then 
the  water  be  poured  off,  strained  and  heated  to 
boiling  point.     In  this  way  less  coffee  can  be  used 
without  deteriorating  from  its  excellence.     Use 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  Java  coffee,  a  pound 

and  a  half  of  Maracaibo,  one  pound  of  Mocha  and  seven  gallons  of  water.  The  best  way  to  obtain 
good  coffee  is  to  make  it  only  when  required;  the  maxim  should  be  "  little  and  often."  It  takes 
three  kinds  of  coffee  to  obtain  a  good  result;  for  instance,  Mocha  for  the  aroma,  having  it  only 
slightly  roasted,  Maracaibo  for  the  color,  which  should  be  well  roasted,  and  Java  for  the  strength, 
roasted  to  a  degree  between  the  other  two. 

(3702).  TUKKISH  COFFEE  (Caf6  a  la  Turque). 

To  be  made  with  the  same  proportion  of  Java  as  Mocha,  ground  and  passed  through  a  very  fine 
sieve.  Put  ordinary  black  coffee  in  a  coffee- 
pot, as  many  cups  as  needed,  and  add  for  each 
cup  a  common  coffeespoonful  of  coffee  passed 
through  a  sieve,  also  a  lump  of  sugar;  stand  it 
on  the  fire  or  gas  stove,  boil  for  two  minutes, 
then  take  it  off  and  pour  in  a  little  cold  water 
to  settle  the  coffee;  let  stand  again  for  a  few 
minutes.  Serve  powdered  sugar  with  the 
coffee. 


FIG. 


FIG.  783. 


FIG.  764. 


FIG.  765. 


FIG.  766. 


(3703).  AEABIAN  EACAHOUT  (Eacahout  des 

Arabes). 

Put  a  pint  of  milk  into  either  a  silver  or  tin  saucepan.  Place  in  a  bowl  two  level  spoonfuls  of 
racahout,  then  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  cold  milk;  dissolve  the  racahout  and  pour  it  into  the  boiling 
milk;  let  cook  for  four  or  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while,  sweeten  to  taste  and  serve.  It  can 
also  be  prepared  with  water  instead  of  milk. 


1060  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3704).  TEA  (Th6), 

Jilcwk  Tea  for  Sixty -four  Cups. — One  pound  of  black  tea  and  four  gallons  of  water. 
Green  Tea  for  Forty-eight  Cups.— One  pound  of  Oolong  and  green  tea  for  three  gallons  of 
water. 

Slack  Tea. — Put  one  ounce  of  black  tea  into  a  teapot;  moisten  it  with  two  gills  of  boiling  water 
to  infuse  and  open  the  leaves  and  leave  it  thus  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  eight  gills  of  boiling  water. 
A  few  moments  later  stir  with  a  teaspoon  and  let  stand.  Serve  at  the  same  time,  sugar,  cream, 
toast  or  cakes.  Never  allow  utensils  for  tea-making  to  be  used  for  any  other  purpose.  The  teapot 
should  always  be  plunged  in  hot  water  before  making  the  tea. 

For  Green  and  Oolong. — Use  an  ounce  and  a  half  instead  of  an  ounce  and  prepare  it  with  the 
same  quantity  of  water. 

Serve  the  tea  on  a  tray  covered  with  a  cloth,  accompanied  by  a  sugar  bowl,  suger  tongs,  tea- 
spoons, cups  and  saucers,  a  pot  of  cream,  boiling  water,  a  teapot  with  a  strainer,  toast,  fancy  rolls, 
muffins,  etc.  For  a  party  use  the  same  preparation,  only  having  the  tea  poured  into  cups. 

Russian  Tea  for  Twelve  Cups,  Samovar. — The  samovar  is  a  brass  or  silver-plated  urn  having 
a  cylinder  in  the  center,  with  a  grating  at  the  bottom.  Lay  some  paper  in  the  cylinder,  over  place 
small  splints  of  wood,  and  on  these  some  charcoal.  Light  it  from  underneath  and  on  the  cylinder 
arrange  a  pipe  that  is  then  connected  to  the  outside  or  the  chimney.  Fill  the  urn  with  water, 
between  the  cylinder  and  the  outside;  this  part  of  the  samovar  is  provided  with  a  faucet.  As  soon 
as  the  water  boils  put  the  samovar  on  the  table  on  a  silver  or  brass  salver.  A  crown  is  fastened 
to  the  center  cylinder  to  infuse  the  tea  and  keep  it  hot.  Put  in  twelve  teaspoonfuls  of  the  very 
best  Oolong,  Formosa  or  any  other  preferred  brand  of  tea.  Pour  over  three  teacupfuls  of  boiling 
water  and  allow  it  to  draw  for  five  minutes,  keeping  it  hermetically  closed  and  very  hot,  then  add 
nine  more  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  even  more  should  the  tea  be  too  strong.  Gentlemen  are 
seldom  present  at  afternoon  teas.  Serve  the  tea  in  cups,  but  for  the  evening  (eight  o'clock),  tea  is 
then  poured  into  glasses  for  the  gentlemen  guests.  These  glasses  are  plain,  four  inches  high,  three 
inches  wide  on  top  and  two  inches  at  the  bottom;  they  are  to  be  placed  in  silver  or  silvered  glass 
holders,  having  handles;  the  ladies'  tea  is  served  in  cups.  Cream  must  be  handed  around  at  the 
same  time,  also  very  thin  slices  of  lemon  in  crystal  dishes,  accompanied  by  small  silver  forks. 
Strawberry  or  raspberry  jam,  rose  or  currant  jelly  flavored  with  vanilla,  according  to  taste,  very 
thin  slices  of  buttered  bread,  dry  sweet  tea  cakes  and  sugar  broken  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  currant 
may  also  be  served  with  the  tea. 


WINES  (Vina). 


(3705).  WINES  AND  CARE  OP  WINES  (Le  Vin  et  les  Soins  qu'il  Demande). 
Grimod  de  la  Keyniere  has  said  that  "  No  one  ages  at  table; "  he  might  have  added,  when 
the  dinner  is  good  and  the  wines  are  of  the  finest.  Wine  is  the  intellectual  part  of  the  meal  and  is 
to  be  served  at  a  proper  temperature  in  the  order  of  the  service,  as  will  be  explained  further  on. 
However,  this  is  not  an  absolute  rule;  preference  should  be  given  to  such  and  such  a  wine  accord- 
ing to  one's  taste  and  according  also  to  the  influence  it  bears  on  one's  health.  This  last  point  is 
easier  to  define  for  there  can  be  no  rule  given  regarding  taste,  as  each  individual  sensation  is  apt 
to  differ.  Some  prefer  the  keen  savor  of  Bordeaux,  others  the  delicate  aroma  of  champagne;  this 
one  the  warmth  of  the  wines  from  Languedoc;  another  the  exciting  flavor  of  Burgundy.  Tastes, 
for  some  reason  or  other,  are  formed  on  temperament;  nature  indicates  and  inspires  in  its  very 
best  way  the  proper  method  to  follow  for  the  good  of  our  health.  Sanguine  temperaments  feel  the 
want  of  a  light  wine,  such  as  champagne  and  Rhine  wines;  the  phlegmatically  inclined  love  the 
warmth  of  spirits,  and  the  wines  from  Languedoc  and  Frontignon;  gloomy  dispositions  crave 
for  sweet  Spanish,  Italian,  Boussillon  and  Burgundy  wines;  and  those  of  a  bilious  nature,  absorbed 
by  the  contention  of  their  daily  physical  pain,  require  a  stimulating  wine  such, as  Bordeaux. 
Bordeaux  wine  is  generous,  stomachic,  easily  digested,  leaves  the  mouth  clear  and  the  head  free, 
even  when  liberally  drank.  This  wine  can  be  transported  to  a  great  distance.  Burgundy  wine  is 
aphrodaisical;  it  is  extremely  delicate  and  of  a  delightful  aroma.  Champagne  wines  are  heady; 
they  are  limpid,  light,  odorous  and  unctuous.  When  champagne  is  frozen  its  effect  is  entirely 
changed;  the  temperature  of  the  ice  increases  its  tonic  power  and  better  contributes  to  the  act  of 
digestion,  it  condenses  on  the  stomach  and  prevents  the  largest  proportion  from  stimulating  and 
rising  to  the  brain.  Frequently  dinner  parties  are  given  when  champagne  alone  is  served.  Cham- 
pagne is  not  a  natural  wine,  for  on  its  preparation  depends  the  superior  qualities  it  is  required  to 
possess.  Khine  wines  are  liked  for  the  delightful  mellowness  of  their  flavor.  They  can  support 
very  long  journeys,  which  instead  of  deteriorating  only  increases  their  value. 

The  Cellar. — Be  very  careful  that  the  cellar  is  not  exposed  to  sudden  vibrations  or  shocks,  or 
they  will  cause  the  lightest  part  of  the  dregs  to  arise,  and  when  this  mingles  with  the  wine  it  pro- 
duces sourness;  also  avoid  placing  any  green  wood  in  the  cellar  when  the  sap  is  ascending,  or  any 
vegetables,  for  these  produce  fermentation,  impair  the  quality  of  the  wine  and  prevent  its  pres- 
ervation. Cellars  should  be  kept  very  clean  and  at  a  temperature  of  50  to  55  degrees  Fahrenheit, 
without  any  thorough  draught.  In  the  warmest  part  of  the  cellar  place  the  Bordeaux,  and  the 
Burgundy  in  the  coldest. 

Placing  the  Casks  in  the  Cellar. — Before  a  cask  of  wine  is  placed  in  the  cellar  it  should  be 
thoroughly  examined  to  see  whether  it  be  in  good  condition  and  the  hoops  perfectly  solid.  Stand 
the  casks  on  wooden  joists  six  to  eight  inches  square,  placed  on  bricks  high  enough  so  that  a  bot- 
tle can  be  set  under  the  faucet;  when  in  this  position  wedge  each  one  separately  with  blocks  of 
wood  and  be  careful  not  to  move  or  disturb  the  casks.  When  wines  are  required  to  be  left  in  their 
barrels  they  should  be  placed  sufficiently  far  apart  to  allow  a  free  circulation  between.  Should 
the  wines  be  of  the  present  year  the  cask  should  be  bored  near  the  bung  and  the  hole  closed  by  a 
small  plug  removed  from  time  to  time  so  that  the  fermentation  can  be  known.  If,  when  the  plug  is 
taken  out,  the  air  comes  whistling  forth,  then  fermentation  still  exists;  in  this  case  remove  the 
plug  daily  and  at  less  frequent  intervals  as  fermentation  diminishes.  Casks  should  always  be 
refilled  as  quickly  as  they  are  emptied.  Light  wines  spoil  easily  if  their  casks  are  not  kept  con- 
stantly full.  The  drier  and  more  airy  is  the  cellar  the  faster  the  barrels  must  be  refilled.  This 
should  be  done  every  month,  and  the  wine  used  for  refilling  should  be  of  exactly  the  same  quality 
as  that  already  contained  therein;  this  alone  will  prevent  it  from  deteriorating. 

(1061) 


1062  THE    EPICUREAN. 

(3706).  BOTTLING  WINES  (La  Mise  en  Bouteilles). 

The  faucet  should  be  partly  opened  to  allow  sufficient  time  for  corking  the  bottles  that  have 
been  removed.  The  corks  should  be  selected  perfectly  sound,  especially  if  to  be  kept  for  a  long 
while.  Dip  them  first  in  lukewarm  water  and  force  them  into  the  bottle  with  a  mallet  or  a  special 
machine,  then  cut  them  off  leaving  an  eighth  of  an  inch  above  the  bottle.  Wines  are  bottled  to 
have  them  attain  the  ripeness  to  which  they  are  susceptible  and  to  be  able  to  keep  them  in  a  better 
condition;  generally  it  requires  two  years  before  bottling  red  wines;  only  do  so  when  they  are  found 
to  be  of  a  proper  degree  and  ripeness,  neither  too  sweet  nor  too  sour,  but  of  a  perfect  and  pure  flavor. 
White  wine  can  be  bottled  earlier  than  red — one  year  to  eighteen  months,  after  it  has  lost  its  sweet 
taste.  The  clearness  of  a  wine  being  one  of  its  most  essential  points,  an  effort  should  be  made  to 
obtain  this  result;  if  not  of  a  perfect  limpidity,  then  wait  a  few  days  longer,  and  if  not  then  clear  it 
must  be  drawn  off  and  transferred  to  another  very  clean  cask,  and  clarified  over  again.  Bottles 
must  be  rinsed  carefully  with  lead  shot  or  small  pebbles.  Bottle  the  wine  on  a  clear,  cold  day; 
avoid  stormy  weather,  and  if  possible  select  a  day  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  northeast.  Bore 
the  cask  with  a  gimlet  at  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  inside  border  and  stop  as  soon  as  the  wine 
appears,  then  push  in  the  opened  faucet  and  strike  it  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  disturb  the  dregs. 
The  spigot  must  be  left  sufficiently  open  to  allow  enough  time  for  filling  the  bottles  while  the  corks 
are  being  put  in.  If  required  for  keeping,  then  cover  the  cork  and  about  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the 
neck  of  the  bottle  with  some  prepared  wax,  by  dipping  it  in  the  heated  wax  and  rotating  the  bottle 
until  the  adhering  wax  is  cold;  this  coating  keeps  the  corks  from  molding  and  from  being  eaten 
up  by  insects.  To  make  this  wax  melt  a  pound  of  common  rosin  with  two  ounces  of  yellow  wax 
and  half  an  ounce  of  mutton  tallow;  color  it  with  animal  black,  ochre,  etc.;  if  too  brittle  add  more 
tallow,  and  if  the  opposite,  then  more  rosin.  The  bottles  are  to  be  stacked  slightly  inclined  so  that 
the  wine  can  touch  the  cork  at  all  times.  The  above  is  an  abridged  direction  on  preparing  and 
bottling  wines.  The  utensils  needed  are:  one  large  funnel,  two  measures  of  three  gallons  each,  a 
faucet  for  drawing  off  the  wine  and  one  other  one,  a  mallet  to  push  in  the  corks,  a  beater  for  the 
bung-hole  in  the  cask,  a  pump  and  a  felt  filter,  or  round  paper  filters,  for  filtering  the  wine  from 
the  bottom  of  the  cask. 

(3707),  OLAKIPYING  WINES  (Collage  des  Vins). 

Clarifying  is  not  only  for  the  purpose  of  rendering  wines  clear,  but  also  to  free  them  of  any 
dissoluble  matter  which  might  precipitate  later. 

To  Clarify  Red  Wines. — To  clarify  a  cask  of  wine  containing  two  hundred  and  twenty-five 
quarts,  beat  up  partly  five  egg-whites  with  half  a  bottleful  of  wine;  take  out  eight  quarts  of  wine 
from  the  cask,  pour  in  the  clarifying  matter  and  insert  a  stick  split  in  four;  move  this  about  in 
every  direction  for  two  minutes  so  as  to  mix  in  the  whites  well,  then  refill  the  cask  with  the  eight 
quarts  previously  extracted,  and  finish  filling  with  wine  or  water;  put  back  the  bung.  Five  or  six 
days  after  the  wine  should  be  clear,  but  in  case  it  is  not  sufficiently  so  draw  all  the  wine  off  into 
another  very  clean  cask  and  reclarify  once  more  the  same  as  before,  leaving  it  five  or  six  days; 
it  can  then  be  drawn. 

To  Clarify  White  Wines. — White  wines  are  clarified  with  fish  isinglass.  Beat  with  a  hammer 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the  isinglass,  tear  it  to  pieces,  cutting  it  apart  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
then  soak  it  for  eight  hours  in  sufficient  wine  to  cover;  when  swollen,  and  it  has  absorbed  all  the 
liquid,  pour  over  as  much  as  before  and  leave  it  for  twenty-four  hours;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  hot 
water;  stir  this  about  to  crush,  then  press  forcibly  through  a  towel.  Beat  it  with  a  whip,  pour- 
ing a  little  white  wine  slowly  over  until  the  entire  solution  makes  one  quart  of  liquid.  Before 
pouring  it  into  the  cask  beat  it  up  with  three  pints  of  white  wine  and  finish  the  same  as  the 
red.  The  egg-whites  or  isinglass  can  be  replaced  by  prepared  powders. 

(3708),  DECANTING  WINES  AND  BASKET  POE,  SERVING  WINE  (Vins  De-canto's  et  Panier  a 

Verser  le  Vin). 

Decanting  consists  of  gently  pouring  from  the  bottles,  inclining  them  slightly,  any  liquor  that 
leaves  a  sediment;  on  this  depends  the  clear  appearance  of  an  old  wine.  Well-decantered  liquors 
present  a  beautiful  limpid  color  through  the  decanter,  contributing  greatly  to  the  enjoyment  of 
drinking  a  glass  of  good  wine. 

Basket  for  Serving  Wines. —  In  well-appointed  houses  the  fine  wines  are  decantered 
before  dinner  and  poured  into  cut-glass  decanters.  A  simpler  way  is  to  lay  the  bottles  in 


"WINES. 


1063 


a  small  wicker  basket,  fastening  them  in  with  two  strings;  but  in  order  to  carry  out  this  precaution 
it  will  be  absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  bottle  laid  in  the  basket  several  hours  before  putting  it 


FIG.  767. 

on  the  table,  so  that  however  little  sediment  the  wine  may  contain  it  will  settle  at  the  bottom  of 
the  bottle.  It  is  unnecessary  to  add  that  the  basket  must  not  be  violently  shaken  and  that  the 
wine  be  poured  out  with  the  greatest  care. 

(3709).  DELMONIOO'S  WINE  OELLAE  LIST. 

Absinthe.  Vermouth. 

SHERRY. 

From  the  De  Renne  Estate. 
Duff  Gordon. 


Premiere. 

Imperial. 

Brown. 

Pando. 

Amontillado,  Dry. 

Amontillado,  1834. 

Old  Mantilla. 


Imperial. 
Green  Seal. 
O.  S.  Y.,  1820. 


Scharzberg  Muscatel. 
Berncasteler  Doctor. 


G.  S.,  1815. 
J.  S.,  1815. 
Pale  Gordon. 
Suarez  Superior. 
Suarez  Pasto. 
Suarez  Oloroso. 
Pale  Pemartin. 


O.  Old  around  the  cape.  Peter  Domecq  Jerez  Med. 

Peerless  Cape.  1818. 

Choice  Amont'ado  1857  Montilla  xxxx. 

P.  G.  Old,  No.  5.  Wellington,    P.    Domecq. 

Dry  Soleras,  1828.  Jerez,  1730. 

Solera  Cape.  P.    Domecq    £100    Koyal, 

Harmony.  Pale. 


MADEIRA. 


From  the  De  Renne  Estate. 
L.  I.,  1815.  Agrella Madeira,  1818.  F.  Amory  Imported,  1806. 


Thompson's  Auction.     L.  C.  Madeira. 
Old  Reserve.  Thorndike  A,  1809. 

K  G.,  1798. 
MOSELLE. 

Brauneberger.  Scharzhofberger. 

Zeltinger.  Sparkling. 


RHINE. 

Johannisberger  Red  Seal.    Steinberger  Cabinet.     Geisenheimer. 
Johannisberger  Gold  Seal.  Steinberger  Auslese.      Marcobrunner. 
Johannisberger  Schloss.      Steinberger  Cab.  Imp'l.  Marcobrunner  Aus. 
Rauenthaler  Berg.     .          Bocksbeutel.  Domdechaney. 

Hochheimer.  Deidesheimer.  Laubenheimer. 

Liebfraumilch.  Assmannshauser  (Red).  Niersteiner. 


Y.  Amory  Dom  Pedro, 

1791-92. 
F.  Amory,  Imported,  1811. 

Piesporter. 
Josephshofer. 

Rudesheimer. 
Riidesheimer  Berg. 
Rudesheimer  Berg  Aus. 
Rudesheimer  Berg  Cab. 


Budai. 
Villanyi. 


HUNGARIAN. 
Tokay  Imperial  (White). 
Tokay  Cabinet  (White). 

BORDEAUX. 


Chateau  Yquem.  Graves. 

Chateau  Yquem  Creme  de  Haut  Sauterne. 
Tele.  Barsac. 


White. 

Sauterne. 
Sauterne  Ire. 


Somlyai  (White). 
Budai  Creme. 


Lafaurie. 
Latour. 


1064 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Pichon. 

Chateau  Lagrange. 
Batailley. 
St.  Pierre. 
Chateau  Langoa. 
Chateau  Pontet  Canet. 

Nuits. 

Corton. 

Chambertin. 


BORDEAUX. 
Pontet  Canet. 
Rauzan. 
Ldoville. 

Mouton  Rothschild. 
Haut  Brion. 
Magnum  Bonum. 


Larose. 
St.  Julien. 

St.  Julien  Supe"rieur. 
Chateau  Couffran. 
St.  Estephe. 
Chateau  de  Pez. 


Chateau  Leoville". 
Chateau  Larose. 
Chateau  Margaux. 
Chateau  Latour. 
Chateau  Laffitte. 


Macon. 
Macon  Vieux. 
Pommard. 


BURGUNDY. 

Clos  de  Vougeot.  Beaujolais. 

Romance.  Volnay. 

Romanee  Conti.  Beaune. 


Montrachet. 
Moutrachet  Mousseux. 


Hermitage. 


Cook's  Imperial. 

Jules  Mumm  Grand  Sec. 

Deutz  &  Geldermann  Sec. 

Dry  Monopole. 

Monopole  Club,  Dry. 

Giesler. 

Giesler  Brut,  1884. 


Premiere. 

Renault&  Co. 
Jules  Robin  &  Co. 


BURGUNDY. 
White. 

RHONE. 


Chablis, 
Chablis  Vieux. 

Cotes  Roties. 


Delmonico's  Private 

Stock-Rye. 
Bourbon. 
Rye. 


Old  Tom  Gin. 


Noyau. 

Prunelle  de  Bourgogne. 

Creme  de  Menthe. 


Hermitage  (White). 

CHAMPAGNES. 

Pommery.  Moe't,  White  Label. 

PommeryVin  Nature.  Moe't,  Imperial  Brut. 
Clicquot.  Piper  Heidsieck  Sec. 

L.  Roederer.  Delbeck,  Extra  Dry. 

Ruinart  Brut.  Delbeck,  Brut. 

Royal  Charter.  Delmonico. 

Montrachet  Mousseux.  Krug  Sec. 

MALAGA,  OLD. 

PORT. 
Very  Old  (White).        Osborn. 

BRANDY. 

Vierge.  Martell. 

Renault,  1858.  Martell  Old. 

WHISKEY. 
Delmonico's  Private 

Stock-Bourbon. 
Hollywood. 
McGrath. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Holland  Gin.  Old  Rum. 

LIQUEURS. 

Ktimmel.  Be'ne'dictine. 

Kirsch.  Chartreuse  (Yellow). 

Eckau.  Chartreuse  (Green). 

Maraschino. 


Krug  Sec,  1880. 
Perrier  Jouet,  Special. 
Heidsick  Brut. 
Perrier  Jouet,  Brut. 
Mumm's  Extra  Dry. 
Irroy. 
Irroy  Brut. 


Sandeman's  Old. 

Private  Importation. 
Very  Old  English  Brandy. 

Irish. 

Irish  (Powers). 

Old  Cabinet  Rye. 

Scotch. 

Very  Old  Jamaica  Rum. 


Curaeoa. 
Cura$oa  Sec. 
Anisette. 


ALES,  ETC. 
Scotch. 
Porter. 

Ginger  Ale  (Imported). 

Beadleston  &  Woerz's  Imperial  Lager. 
St.  Louis  Lager. 

Ind.  Coope  &  Co.  Pale  Ale. 

MINERAL  WATERS. 
Apollinaris.  Clysmic.  Juliushaller. 


Kaiser  Beer. 

Yuengling's  Tivoli  Beer. 
Milwaukee  Lager. 
Bass — McMullen. 

Bass  Dog's  Head. 
Cider,  Jericho. 


Vichy  (Imported). 


WINES. 


1065 


(3710),  HOW  TO  FREEZE  CHAMPAGNE  (Manure  de  Trapper  le  Champagne). 

In  order  to  freeze  champagne  pounded  ice  and  rock  salt  are  generally  used.  Have  a  pail  made 
of  galvanized  sheet  iron  or  of  wood,  but  the  iron  one  is  preferable,  for  the  wine  cools  quicker  in  it. 
Put  the  bottle  into  a  pail  thirteen  inches  deep,  seven  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bottom 
and  nine  inches  at  the  top;  this  pail  must  be  furnished  with  a  handle.  Make  a  mixture  of  three 


FIG. 


FIG.  769. 


pounds  of  finely  pounded  ice  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  rock  salt,  not  too  coarse:  fill  the  pail  to  the 
top,  mix  well  together  and  turn  the  bottle  by  the  neck  to  give  it  a  backward  and  forward  move- 
ment from  right  to  left.  If  the  champagne  be  taken  from  the  ice-box  where  it  has  been  lying  for 
several  hours,  then  it  will  only  take  twelve  to  fourteen  minutes  to  freeze,  but  if  it  has  not  been 
previously  on  ice,  then  it  will  require  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes  for  the  operation.  Champagne 
can  be  frozen  without  turning  it  around  by  leaving  it  in  the  salted  ice  for  half  an  hour  before  serv- 
ing. Machines  are  sometimes  used  which  simplify  the  work  greatly;  the  same  time  is  required, 
only  the  labor  is  less  fatiguing.  When  finished  serve  in  a  metal  silver-plated  pail  with  salted  ice 
around.  These  are  to  be  placed  either  on  the  table  or  on  a  small  side  table. 


(3711).  APPETIZERS  AND  MIXED  DRINKS  (Aperitifs  et  Boissons  Melangees). 

Iced  drinks  are  those  to  which  plenty  of  ice  is  added,  then  covered  with  a  tin  shaker  and 
shaken  until  the  contents  are  very  cold  and  iced. 

Cold  drinks  are  those  mixed  into  chopped  ice  with  a  spoon. 

A  glass  of  vermuth  equals  half  a  gill  and  is  the  glass  meant  in  the  recipes  when  not  otherwise 
specified. 

Five  small  glassfuls  equal  a  gilL 

Six  dashes  fill  a  teaspoon. 

Vermuth  Cocktail. — Put  some  fine  ice  into  a  large  glass,  add  a  glassful  of  Italian  vermuth  and 
one  dash  of  Boker's  bitters;  mix  the  whole  together  with  a  spoon,  strain  and  serve  in  small  glasses. 
Another  kind  of  vermuth  cocktail  is  made  by  replacing  the  Italian  vermuth  by  French  vermuth, 
and  having  orange  bitters  instead  of  Boker's. 

Sherry  and  Bitters. — Sherry  into  which  a  little  bitters  is  mixed. 

Brandy,  Whiskey,  Holland  Gin  and  Tom  Gin  Cocktails. — Put  some  very  finely  broken  ice  in 
a  large  glass,  add  a  glassful  either  of  brandy,  whiskey  or  Holland  gin,  one  dash  of  Boker's  bitters, 


1066  THE    EPICUREAN. 

and  two  dashes  of  sweetening  (gum  syrup);  mix  well  together  with  a  spoon,  strain  and  serve  in 
small  glasses.  Tom  gin  cocktail  is  made  exactly  the  same,  only  using  old  Tom  gin  and  suppressing 
the  sweetening. 

Calisaya  Cocktail.— Mix  in  a  large  glass  some  finely  chopped  ice,  a  vermuth  glassful  of 
calisaya,  one  dash  of  orange  bitters  and  a  little  vermuth;  mix  well,  strain  and  serve  in  small 
glasses. 

Peruvian  Cocktail. — Add  to  some  finely  chopped  ice  in  a  glass,  a  vermuth  glassful  of 
Peruvian  bitters,  one  dash  of  orange  bitters  and  a  little  vermuth;  mix  thoroughly,  strain  and  serve 
in  small  glasses. 

Martine  Cocktail. — Have  some  broken  ice  in  a  large  glass  with  the  third  of  a  glassful  of  Tom 
gin  and  two-thirds  (making  a  glassful  in  all)  of  vermuth,  and  one  dash  of  Boker's  bitters;  mix  well, 
strain  and  pour  into  small  glasses. 

Manhattan  Cocktail. — Place  some  very  finely  broken  ice  in  a  large  glass,  add  the  third  of  a 
glassful  of  whiskey  and  two-thirds  of  vermuth,  also  one  dash  of  Boker's  bitters;  mix  properly, 
strain  and  serve  in  small  glasses. 

Jersey  Cocktail  Iced. — For  three  cocktails  put  into  a  vermuth  glass  some  apple  jack  and  two 
glassf  uls  of  Italian  or  French  vermuth,  adding  three  dashes  of  Angostura  bitters  and  finely  pounded 
ice.  Cover  with  a  tin  shaker,  toss,  strain  and  pour  into  small  glasses. 

Absinthe  Cocktail  Iced. — Put  some  finely  chopped  ice  in  a  large  glass,  add  a  small  glassful  of 
absinthe,  two  dashes  of  orange  bitters  and  two  dashes  of  sweetening;  mix  properly,  cover  with  a 
shaker,  toss,  strain  and  serve  in  small  glasses. 

Iced  Absinthe. — Have  some  finely  chopped  ice  in  a  large  glass,  add  a  small  glassful  of  absinthe 
and  water,  cover  with  a  tin  shaker,  toss  thoroughly,  strain  and  serve  in  medium-sized  glasses. 

Riding  Club  Cocktail. — Put  some  finely  broken  ice  in  a  glass  with  two-thirds  of  a  glass  of 
Hostetter's  bitters,  half  a  teaspoonful  cf  Horsford's  acid  phosphate,  two  dashes  of  French  vermuth; 
cover  with  a  tin  shaker  and  toss  until  the  cocktail  is  iced,  then  strain  and  pour  into  small  glasses. 

For  all  cocktails  a  piece  of  lemon  peel  is  generally  twisted  over  the  cocktail. 

(3712).  OLAEET  OUP  AND  OLAEET  CUP  A  LA  WILLAED'S. 

Sweeten  a  pint  of  claret  to  taste,  add  to  it  one  gill  of  maraschino  or  Ouragoa,  one  pint  of  soda 
water,  a  few  mint  leaves,  fresh  strawberries  or  raspberries  and  pieces  of  pineapple.  Cucumbers 
or  borage  leaves  may  be  added. 

A  la  Willard's. — Crush  one  pound  of  strawberries,  add  four  spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  a  bottleful  of  soda  water. 

(3713).  LEMONADE  OE  WITH  SYEUP  AND  OEANGEADE  (Limonade,  Limonade  au  Sirop  et 

Orangeade). 

Lemonade. — Take  a  pint  and  a  half  of  lemon  juice  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  add  water 
to  taste,  add  thin  slices  of  lemon  and  serve  very  cold. 

Lemonade  with  Syrup. — Ten  gills  of  syrup  at  thirty-two  degrees,  one  quart  of  lemon  juice, 
the  peel  of  one  lemon  and  a  quart  of  water;  let  the  peel  infuse,  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and 
bring  it  to  eleven  degrees,  syrup  gauge  (Fig.  167). 

Orangeade. — Eight  gills  of  syrup  at  thirty -two  degrees,  ten  gills  of  lemon  juice,  the  peel  of  two 
oranges,  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  water,  and  the  juice  of  four  lemons;  bring  it  to  eleven  degrees, 
syrup  gauge,  strain  through  a  silk  sieve  and  serve  very  cold. 

(3714).  CHAMPAGNE,  OLAEET  AND  EUM  PUNCH;  DESSEET  DEINKS  (Punch  au  Champagne, 
Bordeaux  et  Ehum;  Boissons  Pour  le  Dessert). 

Champagne. — Three  quarts  of  champagne  wine,  two  quarts  or  bottles  of  Sauterne  wine,  three 
bottles  of  soda  water,  one  gill  of  Curacoa  and  fresh  fruits  in  season. 

Claret. — Four  bottles  of  Bordeaux,  one  quart  of  water,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  gill  of  Curacoa 
and  kirsch,  half  of  each,  half  a  gill  of  lemon  juice  and  fresh  fruits  in  season,  such  as  cherries, 
strawberries,  pineapple  or  raspberries. 

Rum. — Two  quarts  of  St.  Croix  rum,  one  pint  of  Jamaica  rum,  three  pints  of  water,  one  pound 
of  sugar,  one  gill  of  lemon  juice  and  fresh  fruits  in  season. 


WINES.  1067 

A  delicious  drink  is  currant  juice,  grenadine  or  orgeat,  in  large  glasses,  and  moistened  with  ice 
cold  water. 

Dessert  Drinks. — Fine  champagne  brandy,  iced  eckau  kummel,  iced  cream  of  peppermint 
(creme  de  menthe),  Chartreuse,  yellow  and  green,  and  kirsch. 

Pousse  Cafe. — The  pousse  cafe  is  a  drink  composed  of  four  kinds  of  liquor  of  different  color; 
that  is  to  say,  white  cream  of  peppermint,  green  Chartreuse,  cream  of  cocoa  and  brandy.  These 
four  liquors  are  poured  into  a  glass  tumbler  in  such  a  way  that  they  remain  in  distinct  layers, 
which  is  done  by  carefully  pouring  the  above  liquors,  one  after  the  other,  against  the  side  of  the 
glass;  thus  the  liquors  flow  down  gently  without  mixing. 

(3715),  CLAUDIUS  PUNCH  AND  WINE  PUNCH— HOT  (Punch  Claudius  et  Punch  au  Yin  Chaud). 

To  one  pound  of  Scotch  oatmeal  mix  four  quarts  of  boiling  water;  whip  it  in,  stirring  vigor- 
ously; then  boil  the  preparation,  working  it  steadily;  add  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  seeded  Malaga 
raisins,  the  peel  and  juice  of  four  lemons,  a  pint  of  good  sherry  wine  and  sufficient  sugar  to 
sweeten,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  ground  cloves  and  cinnamon;  also  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
finely  shredded  citron,  and  should  it  be  too  thick  then  put  in  more  boiling  water,  strain  through 
a  fine  sieve,  let  cool  and  serve. 

Wine  Punch— Hot. — Put  into  a  jar  two  bottles  of  Bordeaux  wine,  the  juice  of  six  oranges  and 
the  peel  of  three,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  three  cloves;  let  the  whole  infuse  for  twelve  hours, 
then  pass  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  liquid  in  an  untinned  copper  saucepan  with  six  ounces  of 
sugar;  heat  until  it  nearly  reaches  the  boiling  point  and  serve  in  punch  glasses. 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


CENTURY   TABLES. 


Following  will  be  found  several  plates  taken  from  works  of  the  last  century.  I  have  thought 
them  sufficiently  interesting  to  publish  and  even  to  have  them  made  use  of,  that  is  by  modifying 
the  models;  for  instance,  replacing  the  colored  sand  beds  by  those  of  arabesques  of  flowers  or 
grass;  the  marble  statues  by  bronzes,  the  trees  by  graceful  potted  plants  and  the  center  by  hand- 
some  ornamental  sugar  pieces.  The  following  cuts  will  give  a  correct  idea  of  how  these  tables  were 
dressed.  The  center  of  the  table  was  decorated  with  "dormants"  or  looking-glass  platforms; 
on  these  were  placed  ornaments  made  by  cutting  out  cardboard  arabesques  (see  plate  1). 
The  edges  of  these  cardboards  were  trimmed  with  green  chenille  fastened  on  with  green  wax;  this 
chenille  filled  up  any  vacant  space  that  might  occur  between  the  cardboard  and  the  looking-glass. 
The  center  B  is  decorated  with  a  balustrade  shown  in  the  design  on  the  top  of  the  page.  The 
center  of  this  is  a  square  flower-bed,  in  the  middle  of  which  a  figure  generally  stood,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  bed  is  decorated  around  with  variegated  colored  sand;  to  meet  this  balustrade 
is  a  gum-paste  border  garnished  with  small  fancy  cakes  or  dried  fruits.  There  must  always  be  a 
space  two  feet  wide  left  between  the  platform  and  the  edge  of  the  table.  The  designs  A  and  C  are 
decorated  with  beds  the  same  as  B,  having  also  a  figure  in  the  center.  In  case  of  large  tables  these 
"  dormants"  or  platforms  were  made  in  sections. 

PLATE  II. — Represents  a  table  already  dressed,  taken  from  a  work  published  in  1768. 
PLATE  III. — A  table  laid  with  the  dessert,  decorated  with  colored  sand  arabesques. 

PLATE  IV. — Represents  a  more  modern  horseshoe-shaped  table;  this  design  being  frequently 
used  for  large  society  dinners  and  banquets.  This  form  of  table  is  very  convenient,  as  the  president 
is  seated  in  the  center  of  the  rounded  part  and  the  two  principal  officers  at  the  ends;  on  the  right 
of  the  president,  the  most  honored  guest;  on  his  left,  the  one  next  in  distinction  and  so  on,  alter- 
nating from  right  to  left  for  the  guests  or  members  of  the  society.  No  high  center  pieces  or  other 
tall  ornaments  should  be  placed  before  the  president,  merely  a  basket  of  natural  flowers  or  one 
of  pulled  sugar  flowers.  On  the  length  of  the  table  and  in  the  center  or  middle  line  can  be  placed 
several  high  pieces,  candelabras,  epergnes,  etc. ,  all  around,  sixteen  inches  from  the  edge.  Arrange  the 
plates  and  glassware  at  the  usual  distances,  with  two  forks  on  the  left,  one  for  fish  and  another 
for  the  entrees;  on  the  right  have  a  knife,  a  soupspoon,  a  butter  knife  and  an  oyster  fork,  butter 
and  salt  in  front,  and  around  arrange  the  glasses  for  water,  Burgundy,  port,  champagne,  Sauterne, 
and  sherry.  The  space  between  each  place  is  twenty-four  inches  for  those  seated  straight  and 
twenty-two  for  those  on  the  curve.  Before  each  plate  set  a  chair  and  on  the  plate  a  folded  napkin 
containing  a  roll;  in  front  a  card  with  the  number  and  name  written  on  of  the  person  who  is  to 
occupy  the  seat.  This  is  a  short  synopsis  of  the  manner  of  arranging  a  horseshoe-shaped  table. 

PLATE  V. — Represents  divers  ornaments  used  for  decorating  a  table  the  same  as  Plate  I.  The 
design  D  represents  the  palace  of  Circe,  who  metamorphized  Ulysses'  companions  into  swine. 
E  F  are  statues  to  stand  at  each  end;  G  are  pedestals  with  vases  on  top;  placed  around  the  beds 
of  sand  or  flowers  and  between  each  pedestal  is  a  tree  as  shown  in  H.  The  looking-glass  u  dor- 
mant "  or  platform  can  be  left  undecorated.  M  may  be  used  instead  of  the  temple  for  a  small  table. 

PLATE  VI.— -Figure  No.  1  represents  a  border  around  the  dormant  made  of  gum  paste;  No.  2 
platforms  to  place  the  dried  fruits  and  nuts  on;  No.  3  flower  beds;  No.  4  the  position  for  the 
trees;  No.  5  for  pedestals  having  grass  around  each  one;  No.  6  represents  mounds  of  earth  to 
stand  figures  on,  and  all  the  intervening  empty  space  is  to  be  of  looking-glass,  or  else  of  sand, 
according  to  taste. 

(1069) 


1070 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PLATE  L 


LAST    CEXTUHY    TABLES. 


1071 


PLATE  II. 


PLATE  III. 


PLATE  IV. 


G          O 


O          O 


COCO 

(il)       (T) 


O       O       O       O 


O       O 


1072  THE    EPICUREAN. 

PLATE  V. 


G       H       G     H     G      H 


M 


G       H       G      H     G       H       G 


PLATE  VI. 


1862. 


DELMONICO'S  MENUS. 


1894. 


I  give  here  a  series  of  bills  of  fare  served  by  Delmonico,  in  14th  street  and  5th  avenue,  and 
Madison  square  and  26th  street.  These  are  only  a  few  among  many  that  have  been  prepared,  and  I 
regret  that  I  cannot  add  more,  for  I  am  sure  they  would  please  the  subscribers  of  THE  EPICUREAN. 
I  have  endeavored  to  select  those  most  interesting.  The  bills  of  fare  are  generally  and  frequently 
very  elaborate,  some  being  engraved  on  sterling  silver  leaves;  others  are  lithographed  and  are  perfect 
masterpieces  of  art,  the  original  costing  several  hundred  dollars;  others  are  printed  on  satin  and 
others  enclosed  in  small  Russian  leather  books;  many  have  been  made  of  celluloid  with  relief 
figures,  giving  a  very  beautiful  and  artistic  effect;  they  are  also  made  of  beveled-edged  cards, 
painted  by  hand  in  water  colors,  either  subjects  or  monograms  being  used.  A  bill  of  fare  that  is 
very  much  admired  is  two  equal-sized  cards  having  two  holes  in  the  top  of  each  and  tied 
together  with  two  pretty  ribbons;  with  these  there  is  no  necessity  of  having  a  bill  of  fare 
holder,  as  when  opened  they  stand  alone. 


"  Brillat-Savarin  in  his  digression  on  taste  observes  that  only  men  of  wit  know  how  to  eat, 
while  I  add,  that  it  requires  a  man  of  taste  to  prepare  the  food  that  pleases  the  men  of  wit." 

— EVERS. 

In  the  last  dinner  given  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  in  the  year  1893  will  be  found  the 
diagram  and  the  manner  the  tables  were  laid ;  the  upper  one  is  the  principal  table,  the  president 
and  his  guests  being  seated  in  the  center.  The  other  tables  are  placed  lengthwise  in  front  of  the 
president's;  they  are  classed  alphabetically.  Each  place  is  designated  by  a  number  and  the  name 
of  the  person  to  occupy  it.  The  end  of  each  table  is  reserved  for  the  members  of  the  arrangement 
committee;  a  special  table  is  for  the  press.  The  one  numbered  F  is  for  the  object  of  completing 
the  seating  capacity  of  the  three  hundred  guests. 

(1073) 


1074  THE    EPICUREAN. 

DECEMBRE,  1862. 

DINER  DE  28  COUVERTS. 

Un  Menu  de  la  Serie  des  fameux  Diners  grecs. 

MENU. 

Huitres. 
POTAGES. 

Consomm6  Chatelaine. 
Creme  de  gibier  a  la  Franyaise. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Croquettes  a  la  Cointesse. 

POISSONS. 
Saumon  &  la  Koyale.  Bass  a  la  Bechamel. 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  Chateaubriand. 

Dinde  sauvage  au  Chasseur. 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  volaille  Mare'chale. 

Filets  de  grouse  a  la  Dauphine. 

Timbales  a  la  Parisienne. 

Croustades  de  Terrapenes. 

Pate"  de  foies  gras  en  Bellevue. 

Sorbet  a  VAndalouse. 

ROTS. 
Faisans  Anglais  pique's  et  truffes.  Canvas  back  ducks. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  CHATJDS. 

Compiegne  aux  poires. 

Cygne  surprise,  sauce  pistaches. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  FROIDS. 

Mace*doine  Alexandre  Dumas.  Gel^e  aux  fraises. 

Gel6e  au  raisin  de  Muscat  Pam  d'abricots  Montaigne. 

Lait  d'amandes  rubane  au  chocolat. 

Creme  Portugaise,  Goronflot  a  1'angelique. 

Charlotte  Montpensier. 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Pavilion  des  Colonnes. 
Corbeille  arabesque  garnie  de  fruits. 

Nougat  Imperial. 
Chaumiere  des  Colombes. 

GLACES. 

Napolitaine.  Bombe  a  la  fleur  d'oranger. 

Dessert. 

Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmoinco. 


DELMONICO'S 


1075 


E-  DECEMBRE,  1862. 
MR.  GIRAUD  FOSTER. 

DINER  DE  16  COUVERTS. 

MENU. 

Hultres. 

POTAGE. 

Pure'e  de  gibier. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 
Croquettes  a  la  Piemontaise. 

POISSON. 

Filets  de  bass,  Cambace'res. 

RELEVE. 

Selle  de  chevreuil,  sauce  venaison, 

ENTREES. 

Estomacs  de  dindes  sauvages  a  la  Goddard. 
Supreme  de  faisan  a  1'Imperiale. 
Cotelettes  a  la  Pogarski. 
Petits  pois  a  I'Anglaise. 
Choux  de  Bruxelles. 
Fonds  d'artichauts  farcis. 
Asperges,  sauce  creme. 
Punch  au  Cardinal. 

ROTS. 

Cailles  piquees.  Canvas  back  duck. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Timbale  de  poires  Napolitaine. 
Gelee  au  Madere. 

Gateau  Savarin. 
Glaces.  Parfait  au  cafe.  Biscuits  glacis. 

DESSERT. 

S3 

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MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

evigne". 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 
Chartreuse  a  la  Regence. 

POISSONS. 

sauce  aux  e"crevisses. 
Eperlans  frits, 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Be"arnais< 

ENTREES. 

Leopold. 
casses  Elisienne. 

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ROT. 

et  truffes. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  CHA 

Pouding  diplomate. 

Mac6doine  de  fruits,  Chateaub] 

j  le  casque  Remain. 

rj»7A  Avenue. 

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1076  THE    EPICUREAN. 

BALL. 
NOVEMBER  5,  1863,  AT  THE  ACADEMY  OF  Music. 

RUSSIAN  FLEET. 

Bear-Admiral  Lessoffsky,  Russian  flagship  "  Alexander  Weosky,"  51  guns. 
Captain  Kopytor,  Russian  screw  frigate  "  Peresvat,"  48  guns. 
Captain  Bontakoff,  Russian  screw  frigate  "  Osliaba,"  33  guns. 
Captain  Lund  (or  Lurd),  Russian  screw  sloop  "  Vitioz,"  77  guns. 
Captain  Kremer,  Russian  screw  sloop  "  Variag,"  17  guns. 


MENU. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Huitres  a  la  poulette.  Huitres  en  marinade.  Bouchees  de  gibier. 

Canapes  de  filets  d'ortolans.  Snit-mitch  a  la  Russe. 

GROSSES  PIECES. 

Saumons  au  beurre  de  Montpellier.  Truites  a  la  Regence. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Mazarin.  Pate's  de  canvas-back  ducks. 

Galantines  de  cochon  de  lait.  Pate's  de  gibier  sur  socles. 

Jambons  de  Westphalie  a  la  moderne.  Galantines  de  dindes  aux  truffes. 

ENTREES. 

Salade  de  volaille  a  la  Russe.  Canetons  Rouennaise. 

C6telette  de  pigeons  en  macedoine.  Bordures  d'escalopes  de  homards. 

Chaudfroid  de  filets  de  faisans.  Aspics  de  filets  de  soles  Victoria. 

Pain  de  gibier  a  la  Royale.  Timbales  a  la  Renaissance. 

Terrines  de  Nerac.  Becassines  a  la  Geoffrey. 

ROTS. 

Cailles  aux  feuilles  de  Vignes.  Becasses  Bardees. 

Faisans  Piques.  Grouses. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  ET    DESSERTS. 

Savarins  au  Marasquin.  Biscuits  Moscovites. 

Gateaux  de  mille  feuilles.  Babas  glaces  au  Rhum. 

Charlottes  Siberiennes.  Charlottes,  New  York. 

Meringues  panachees  et  vanillees. 

Gelees  macedoine  au  champagne.  Pain  d'abricots  a  la  Berisina. 

Gelees  Dantzic  Orientale.  Blanc  manger  rubane  au  chocolat. 

Gelees  de  poires  a  la  marechale.  Bavarois  aux  f raises. 

Gelees  au  Madere.  Biscuits  glaces  a  la  rose. 

Gateaux  assortis.                   Petits  fours.  Compotes.                    Fruits. 

PIECES  MONTEES  ET  GLACEES. 

Pierre  le  Grand.  Washington. 

Alexandre  II.  Lincoln. 

Le  berceau  des  Palmiers.  La  rotonde  d'Athenes. 

La  fontaine  moderne.  L'  Ermitage  Russe. 

L'ArcdeTriomphe.  Comes  jumelles  d'abondance. 

Sultane  a  la  Parisienne.  Le  Pavilion   des    aigles. 

L'aigle  Americain.  Le  casque  sur  socle.               Pouding  Nesselrode. 

LA  LIONNE. 

Colombus.  Corbeille  jardiniere.  Les  Dauphins. 

Diane.  Madeleine.  Mousse  aux  amandes. 

Bombe  spongade.  Citron  et  fraise.  Ceylan  au  cafe.  Vanille  chocolat, 

Fourteenth  Street  and  fifth  Avenue.  jOelmoiiico. 


DELMONICO'S    MENUS. 


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UVKETS,  30  PETITES  TABLES. 

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THE    EPICUREAN. 


NOVEMBRE,  1864. 
DINER  DE  26  COUVERTS. 

Offert  a  TAmiral  Renaud  de  la 
Flotte  Frangaise. 


MENU. 


Creme  de  volatile. 


Saumon  a  I'Impe'riale. 


Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme*  Royale. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Croquettes  a  la  Victoria. 

POISSONS. 

Soles  farcies,  sauce  au  champagne. 


RELEVE. 

Selle  de  chevreuil,  sauce  poivrade. 

ENTREES. 

Dindonneaux  a  la  Toulouse. 

Caisses  de  becasses  a  la  Diane. 

Pate  de  foies  gras. 

Punch  &  la  Rtgence. 
ROTS. 


Canvas  back. 
Petits  pois. 


Mayonnaise  de  homard. 


Filet  de  boaul. 


ENTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 

Haricots  verts. 
Choux  flours.  Tomates  farcies. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES  CHAUDS. 

Pouding  Cabinet. 


ENTREMETS  SUCRES  FROIDS. 

Gelee  mac^doine.  Savarin  Chantilly. 

Gel6e  Madere.  Charlotte  russe. 

Blanc  manger.  Meringues, 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Le  casque  Eomain.  Troph^e  maritime. 

Bombe  spongade,  Napolitaine. 
Petits  fours.  Fruits.  Cafe" 

Nougat  Imperial. 
Chaumiere  des  Colombes. 


Glace  Napolitaine. 

Bombe  fleur  d'oranger. 

Dessert. 


Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


Delmonic* 


DEJL,MONICO'S 


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MENU. 

Bisque  aux  Lucines. 
Creme  de  volaille. 
Coquilles  de  crabes  moux. 

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Salade  a  la  Russe. 
de  volaille.  Salad< 

nanas. 

rois  aux  fraises. 
Creme  Parisienne. 
Gelee  au  Marasquin. 
Gateau  Angeliq 
Chariot 

Le  casque  Romain. 
Le  coquerico. 
nville.  B 

Nougat  Parisienne  en  surprise 
Sultane  de  raisins  et  oranges. 

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Huitres. 
Consomme  de  gibier. 
quilles  d'huitres  au  gratin. 

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DINNER   GIVEN   BY  SIR   MORTON   PETO, 

AT  — 

DELMONICO'S,  OCTOBER  30,  1S65. 


MENU. 

Barsac.  Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Xeres  F.  S.,  1815.  Consomm6  Britannia. 

Pur6e  &  la  Derby. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Cassolettes  de  foies-gras.  Timbales  a  l'£carlate. 

POISSONS. 
Steinberger  Cabinet.  Saumon  &  la  Rothschild. 

Grenadins  de  bass,  New  York. 

RELEVES. 

Champagne  Napoleon.  Chapons  truff£s. 

Filet  de  boauf  a  la  Durham. 

ENTREES. 

Chdteau  Latour.  Faisans  &  la  Londonderry. 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  Primatice. 
Cromesquis  de  volaille  a  la  puree  de  marrons. 
Aiguillettes  de  canards  a  la  bigarade. 
Rissolettes  &  la  Pompadour. 

ENTREES    FROIDES. 

Cdtes  Roties.  Voliere  de  gibier. 

Ballotines  d'anguilles  en  Bellevue. 
Chaudfroid  de  rouges-gorges  &  la  Boh^mienne. 
Buisson  de  ris  d'agneau  Pascaline. 

Sorbet  d  la  Sir  Morton  Peto. 

ROTIS. 

Clos-Vougeot.  Selle  de  chevreuil,  sauce  au  vin  de  Porto  groseilles. 

B6casses  bardees. 

ENTREMETS. 

Choux  de  Bruxelles.  Haricots  Verts. 

Artichauts  farcis.  Petits  pois. 

SUCRES. 
Tokai  Imperial.  Pouding  de  poires  a  la  Madison. 

Louisiannais  a  1'ananas. 

Gel£e  aux  fruits.  Pain  d'abricot  a  la  vanille. 

Moscovite  fouett^e.  Gel6e  Indienne. 

Vacherin  au  marasquin.  Cougloff  aux  amandes. 

Mazarin  aux  ptiches.  Mousse  a,  1'orange. 

Caisses  jardiniere.  Glaces  assorties. 

Fruits  et  Desserts. 

PIECES    MONTEES. 

Madere  Faquart.  Cascade  Pyramidale. 

Corbeille  arabesque.  Ruines  de  Po6stum. 

Le  Palmier.  Trophe'e  militaire. 

Corne  d'abondance.  Nougat  4  la  Parisienne. 

Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmonico. 


DKLNIONICO'S    MKNUS. 


1081 


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Clams  mignons. 

POT  AGE. 

Consomme^  Rachel. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Coquilles  de  crabes  moux. 

POISSON. 

Saumon  a  la  Dauphine. 

RELEVE. 

irtier  d'agneau  a  I'Espagnole. 

ENTREES. 

acs  de  pigeonneaux  a  la  Touloi 
stades  de  beVassines  au  fumet. 
de  volaille  puree  de  champigm 

ENTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 

Eninards.  As 

Punch  d  I'Anglaise. 

ROTS. 

Filets  de 
Salade. 

REMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  CHAUD. 

oiites  aux  ananas  Richelieu. 

REMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  FROIDS. 

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GLACES. 

Bombe 

L'arbre  Prodigieux. 
Dessert. 

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DINNER   GIVEN    BY    THE   CITIZENS   OF   NEW   YORK 

TO    HIS    EXCELLENCY 

PRESIDENT  JOHNSON, 

In  honor  of  his  visit  to  the  city,  Wednesday,  August  29,  1866. 


Amontillado. 


Hochheimerberg. 
Champagne. 

Chat.  Margaux,  '48. 


Cf^s-Vougeot. 


Tokai  Imperial. 


Mad'ere  Faquart. 


MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Chatelaine.  Bisque  aux  quenelles. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  de  gibier  a  la  Venitienne. 

POISSONS. 
Saumon  Livonienne.  Paupiettes  de  kingfish,  Villeroi. 

RELEVES. 
Selle  d'agneau  aux  concombres.          Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Pocahontas. 

ENTREES, 

Supreme  de  volaille  Dauphine. 

Ballotines  de  pigeons  Lucullus. 

Filets  de  canetons  Tyrolienne. 

Cotelettes  a  la  Marechale. 

Ris  de  veau  Montgomery. 

Boudins  a  la  Richelieu. 

Sorbet  d  la  Dunderberg. 
ROTS. 


B£cassines  Bardees. 


Ortolans  farcis. 


ENTREMETS    DE    LEGUMES. 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise.  Tomates  farcies. 

Aubergines  frites.  Artichauts  Barigoule 

ENTREMETS    SUCRES. 

Peches  a  la  New  York. 
Abricots  Siciliens. 


Macedoine  de  fruits. 
Bavarois  aux  fraises. 
Creme  aux  amandes. 
Beausejour  au  Malaga. 
Gateau  soleil. 


Moscovites  aux  oranges. 
Gelee  Californienne. 
Meringues  Chantilly. 
Mille  feuilles  Pompadour. 
Biscuits  glaces  aux  pistaches. 


FRUITS    ET   DESSERTS. 
PIECES    MONTEES. 


Monument  de  Washington. 
Temple  de  la  Liberte'. 
Casque  Romain. 
Char  de  la  Paix. 
Cassolette  Sultane. 


Fontaine  des  Aigles. 
Trophee  National. 
Colonne  de  1' Union. 
Rotonde  Egyptienne. 
Corne  d'Abondance. 


fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


Dclmonico. 


DE-LMONICO'S    MKNTJS. 


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'«n(fc  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 

1084 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


AVRIL,  1867. 
DINER  DE  175  Cou VERTS. 

En  I'Honneur  de  Charles  Dickens. 


Consomme  Sevigne. 


Saumon  a  la  Victoria. 


MENU. 

Huitres  sur  coquilles. 

POTAGES. 

Creme  d'asperges  a  la  Dumas. 

HORS-D'OEUVRE  CHAUD. 

Timbales  a  la  Dickens. 
POISSONS. 

Pommes  de  terre  Nelson. 


Bass  a  1'Italienne. 


RELEVES. 


Filet  de  boauf  a,  la  Lucullus. 
Agneau  farci  a  la  Walter  Scott. 


Laitues  braisees  demi-glace. 
Tomates  a  la  Reine. 


ENTREES. 

Filets  de  brants  a  la  Seymour. 

Petits  pois  a  TAnglaise. 

Croustades  de  ris  de  veau  a  la  Douglas. 

Quartiers  d'artichauts  Lyonnaise. 
Epinards  au  veloute". 

Cotelettes  de  grouses  a  la  Fenimore  Cooper. 

ENTREES  FROIDES. 

Galantines  a  la  Royale. 
Aspics  de  foies-gras  histories. 

INTERMEDE. 

Sorbet  a  V  Amfricaine. 

ROTS. 
Becassines.  Poulets  de  grains  truffe"s. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Peches  a  la  Parisienne  (chaud). 

Macedoine  de  fruits.  Moscovite  a  1'abricot. 

Lait  d'amandes  rubane  au  chocolat. 

Charlotte  Doria. 

Viennois  glace  a  1'orange.  Corbeille  de  biscuits  Chantilly. 

Gateau  Savarin  au  marasquin. 


Glaces  forme  fruits  Napolitaine. 
Parfait  au  Cafe. 


PIECES    MONTEES. 


Temple  de  la  Litterature. 
Pavilion  international. 
Les  armes  Britanniques. 
Le  Monument  de  Washington. 


Fruits. 


Compotes  de  peches  et  de  poires. 
Fleurs. 
Dessert. 


Trophee  a  1'Auteur. 
Colonne  Triomphale. 
The  Stars  and  Stripes. 
La  Loi  du  destin. 

Petits  fours. 


Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


Delmonico. 


MENU'S. 


1085 


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Fifth  Avenue. 

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DECEMBRE,  1868. 
DINER  DE  280  COUVERTS. 

En  I'Honneur  du  Professeur  Morse. 

MENU. 

Huitres  sur  coquilles. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Sevigne  de  perdreau. 
Puree  d'asperges  aux  croutons  souffles. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Brissotins  au  supreme. 

RELEVES. 

Saumon  a  la  Franklyn.  Pommes  gastronome. 

Escalopes  de  bass  aux  6perlans  Dauphin. 

Filet  de  bceuf  aux  fonds  d'artichauts  macedoine. 
Dindonneaux  a  la  moderne. 

ENTREES. 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Valencay.  Salmis  de  grouses  aux  truffes. 

Paupiettes  de  poulet  Ve'nitienue. 

ENTREES  FROIDES. 

Pains  de  faisans  Chantilly.  Galantine  de  pigeons  a  la  Koyale. 

Homard  mayonnaise  en  Bellevue.  Pate  de  gibier  Parisienne. 

Sorbet  Dalmatic. 

ROTS. 
Canvas-back.  Cailles  truffees. 

ENTREMETS  DE   LEGUMES. 

Petits  pois  au  beurre.  Epinards  veloute. 

Choux  fleursgratin.  Haricots  verts  sautes. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  CHAUD. 

Pommes  a  la  Manhattan. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  FROIDS. 

Ananas  a  1'Orientale.  Lait  d'amandes  rubane. 

Savarin  aux  fraises.  Charlotte  russe,  vanille  ornee  sucre  file*. 

Bavarois  au  cacao.  Sicilien  glace  au  marasquin. 

Gateau  a  1'angelique.  Panier  de  meringues. 

Pieces  monte'es. 

Glace  excellent  au  cafe.  Montelimar. 

Fruits.  Petits  fours.  Compotes. 

Cafe. 

Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmonico. 


MENU'S.  1087 


JUIN,  1868. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

EN  L'HONNEUR  DBS  AMBASSADEURS  CHINOIS. 

MENU. 

POTAGE. 

A  la  Brunoise. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Bouchees    a    la    Keine. 

RELEVES. 

Saumon  a  la  sauce  Hollandaise.    • 

Bass  raye"  au  gratin. 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  jardiniere. 

Pommes  de  terre  Duchesse. 

ENTREES. 

Poulet  saute"  a  la  Valenciennes. 

Epinards  au  veloute".  Petits  pois  aux  laitues. 

Ris  de  veau  braises,  sauce  Madere. 
Haricots  verts  sautes. 


Sorbet  Californienne. 

ROTS. 
Brants.  Salade  d'escarolle. 

ENTREMETS    STORES. 

Pouding  d'ananas  au  Sabayon. 


Gele"e  au  Madere.  Bavarois  aux  fraises. 

Gateau  Savarin.  Mille  feuilles. 


Glaces  variees.  Petits  fours. 

Fruits.  Compotes. 

PIECES  MONTEES. 

Le  Pavilion  du  Mandarin.  Monument  de  Washington. 

L'Arrivee  du  Clipper  de  Hong  Kong,  1'Enfant  du  Soleil. 

Dessert. 
Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmonico. 


3088 


THE    EPICURE  AN. 


OCTOBRE,  1869. 
DINER  DE  120  COUVERTS. 

LKS  PlONNIERS  DK  LA  CALIFOBNIE. 


MENU. 


Chdblis. 


Hultres. 


Amontillado.       Consomme1  Se'vigne'. 


Creme  de  gibier. 


Hochhetmer. 
Champagne. 


POTAGES. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 
Brissotins  au  supreme. 


RELEVES. 

Bass  a  la  Dieppoise.  Pommes  tartelettes. 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  Champignons  nouveaux. 


Bordeaux. 


ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  volaille,  sauce  Perigueux. 

Petits  pois  au  beurre. 

Kis  de  veau  a  la  Valencay. 

Epinards  a  1'Espagnole. 


Galantine  a  la  gelee. 


ENTREES   FROIDES. 


Salade  de  homard. 


Jambon  decore". 


Sorbet  a  la  Dalmatie. 


Champagne. 


ROTS. 


Perdreaux. 


Becasses. 


ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Timbale  a  la  Madison  (chaud). 


Gelee  aux  ananas. 

Corbeille  de  meringues  Chantilly. 

Gateau  Sicilien. 


Bavarois  aux  fraises. 
Charlotte  Parisienne. 


L'Etat  de  1'Or. 
Le  Tunnel. 


Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


PIECES  MONTEES. 


Glaces  moule'es. 
Dessert. 


Le  Viaduc. 

Le  Trophee  du  Commerce. 


Detmonico 


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Huitres  sur  coquilles. 

POTAGES. 

name  Sevigne.  Bisqa 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 

Rissolettes  a  la  Pompadour. 

RELEVES. 

ye  aux  eperlans  Diplomate.  Pomm< 
jlle  de  chevreuil  Tyrolienne.  ] 

ENTREES. 

Faisan  a  I'Aquitaine. 
Petits  pois  au  beurre. 

Filets  de  poulet  macedoine  aux  ti 
Champignons  farcis. 
Quenelles  de  gibier,  Londonde: 
Fonds  d'artichauts  au  Supren 

Sorbet  a  VAme'ricaine. 

ROTS. 

ms  truffle's. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Timbale  a  la  Richelieu. 

d'orange  Orientale.  Bayaroi 

u  Napolitain.  Nougat 
Glaces  excellent  au  cafe  garni  de  ' 
Asperges,  sauce  Marasquin, 
Dessert. 

9n,  f67  Jfadwon  Avenue. 

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OCTOBRE,  1870. 
DINER  DE  50  COUVERTS. 

En  I'Honneur  du  Gouverneur  Hoffman 
et  de  Son  Eta t  Major. 

MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 
Consomme  Impe'riale.  Tortue  verte  au  Glair. 

HORS-D'<EUVRE  CHADD. 

Croquettes  de  ris  de  veau. 

RELEVES. 

Bass  ray6  a  la  Manhattan. 
Filet  de  boeuf  braise  aux  champignons. 

ENTREES. 

Estomacs  de  poulet,  sauce  celeri. 
Ballotines  d'agneau  a  la  Creole. 
Homard  farci  a  la  Diable. 


Sorbet  au  Kirsch. 


ROTS. 
Perdreaux  sauce  au  pain.  Grouses  a  la  gelee  de  groseille. 

ENTREMETS  DE   LEGUMES. 

Pommes  de  terre  Duchesse.  Haricots  verts  a  1'Anglaise. 

Tomates  sautees. 

SUCRES. 

Timbale  Madison  (chaud). 

Gelee  au  Madere.  Charlotte  Russe. 

Creme  Fran§aise  aux  amandes.  Corbeille  meringues  Chantilly. 

Mille  feuilles  Pompadour.  Gateau  Breton. 

Glace  Napolitaine. 

Pieces  Monties. 
Dessert. 

Waurteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmonieo. 


MENU'S. 


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POTAGES. 

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DECEMBRE,  1871. 
DINER  DE  100  Cou  VERTS. 

£»  rilonueur  do  8.  M.  le  Grand  Due  Alexis. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 
POTAGES. 

Consomme  au  Grand  Due. 
Tortue  verte  au  Clair. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Varies. 

POISSONS. 

Bass  raye  Portugaise  garni  de  filets  d'eperlans  frits. 
Saumon  de  Californie  a  la  sauce  Gencvoise. 

RELEVE. 
Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Kichelieu. 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  chevreuil,  sauce  poivrade. 

Filets  de  perdreaux  a  1'Aquitaine. 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland. 

FROID. 

Galantine  de  faisan  a  la  Koyale. 
Chaudf  roid  de  becasses  en  croustades  &  la  ge!6a 


Sorbet  a  la  Regence. 


ROT. 
Canvas-back  duck. 

ENTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 


Petits  pois  au  beurre. 
Artichauts  a  la  Provencale. 


Mac^doine  de  fruits. 
Moscovite  aux  abricots. 
Gateau  mousseline. 
Glaces  Napolitaina 


Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


Pommes  Duchesse. 

ENTREMETS   SUCRES. 

Poires  a  la  Florentine. 


Pieces  monte'es. 
Dessert. 


Haricots  flageolets. 
Choux  flours  an  gratin. 


Charlotte  russe. 
Bavarois  ruban& 
Coupole  Chantilly. 
Excellent  au  cafe. 


r>EJ-MO]srico's 


1093 


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Huttres. 

POTAGE. 

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1094 

OCTOBRE,  1872. 

SOUPER  BUFFET  ET  Assis. 

MR.  AUGUST  BELMONT. 


TIIE 


MENU. 

CHAU.D. 

Consomme  de  volatile. 
Huitres  a  la  bechamel  aux  truffes. 

Huitres  farcies. 

Croquettes  homard  a  la  Victoria. 
Ragout  de  Terrapene. 

FROID. 

Saumon,  sauce  ravigote  vert-pre. 

Filet  de  boauf  aux  legumes. 

Galantine  de  dinde  aux  truffes. 

Pate"  de  gibier  de  Colmar. 

Chaudfroid  de  grouses. 

Cailles  piquees  a  la  gelee. 

Salade  de  volaille  mayonnaise. 
Mayonnaise  de  homard. 


Chapons. 


Gelee  aux  ananas. 
Gateau  baba  au  rhum. 
Bavarois  aux  fraises. 


Boris  CHAUDS. 


ENTREMETS    SUCRES. 


Dimlonneaux. 


Pain  a  la  Reine. 
Gaufres  Chantilly. 
Charlotte  Parisienne. 


Petites  glaces  varie'es. 

Pieces  Montees. 

Dessert. 


Mr. 


Eelmont. 


Servi  par  Delnwnico. 


DELMONICO'S    MKNUS. 


1095 


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MENU. 

POTAGES. 

nsomm4  Printanier.  Queues  de 

POISSONS. 

umon  a  la  Joinville.  (Eufs  d'alo 
Pommes  Duchesse. 

RELEVES. 

Selle  d'agneau  Salvandi. 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  champignons  nouveai 

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preme  de  volaille  puree  de  truffes.  Flage< 
Terrapene  a  la  Philadelphie. 

Asperges  en  branches  sauce  blanche. 
Sorbet  Spongade  au  kirsch. 

ROTS. 

apons.  Pigeon 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Pouding  Bagration. 

lee  d'ananas  Dantzic.  Gelee 
in  de  fraises  Moderne.  Corbe 
.varois  au  1-ait  d'amandes.  Gatea 

aces.  Tutti-frutti.  Biscu 
Fruits.  Petits  fours. 
Pieces  montees. 
Cafe".  Liqueurs, 

wder  Hackett,  71!  Park  Avenue. 

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1096  THE    EPICUREAN. 


MARS,  1873. 
DINER  DE  12  Cou VERTS. 

Suivi  D'UN  SOUPER  DE  80  PERSONNES. 
En  1'honneur  du  Gfeneral  Grant. 

MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme*  Pierre  le  Grand.  Creme  d'asperges. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbales  a  la  Montglas. 

POISSON. 
Truites  de  riviere  a  la  Joinville.  Pommes  gastronome. 

RELEVE. 
Selle  d'agneau  a  la  Chanceliere.. 

ENTREES. 

Filets  de  canvas-back  a  1'Aquitaine.  Petits  pois. 

Grenades  de  volaille  puree  de  marrons.  Haricots  verts. 

Aspics  de  foies  gras  en  Belle vue. 
Ballotines  de  pigeons. 

Sorbet  a  V  Americaine. 

ROT. 
Poulets  de  grain  truffes. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  CHAUD. 

Peches  a  la  Colbert. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR  FROIDS. 

Gele"e  aux  fruits  Sultane.  Lait  d'amandes. 

Pieces  montees. 

Glaces  moulees. 
Fruits.  Dessert. 


SOUPER. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme"  de  volaille.  Huitres  bechamel  aux  truffes. 

Croquettes  d'huitres  Africaine.  Timbales  a  l'e"carlate. 

Truites  de  rivieres  ravigote. 

Selle  d'agneau  de  lait  jardiniere. 

Escalopes  de  volaille  a  la  Talleyrand. 

Ecrevisses  a  la  Bordelaise. 

FROID. 

Voliere  de  faisans  Anglais.  Mayonnaise  de  volaille. 

Salade  de  homard.  Aspics  de  foies-gras. 

CHAUD. 
Becassines  au  cresson.  Asperges  nouvelles. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR   CHAUDS   ET  DESSERTS. 

Gelee  d'oranges.  Bavarois  ruban^. 

Gateau  Imperial.  Corbeille  Chantilly. 

Glaces:  Bacchus  et  le  puits  garni  de  Tortoni. 

Excellent  au  cafe.  Petites  glaces  variees. 

Dessert. 

Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue.  Delmonico. 


DELMONICO'S    MENUS. 


1097 


FEVRIER,  1873. 
DINER  DE  75  COUVERTS  (le  diner  des  cygnes). 

MR.  LUCKMEYER. 
MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Imperiale.  Bisque  aux  crevettes. 
HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

MX, 

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POISSONS. 

Red  snapper  a  la  Ve"nitienne. 
Paupiettes  d'eperlans,  sauce  des  gourmets. 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  I'Egyptienne. 

ENTREES. 

Cotelettes  de  volaille  a  la  Sevigne. 
Ailes  de  canvas-back,  sauce  bigarade. 
Asperges  froides  en  branches,  sauce  vinaigrette. 

Sorbet  de  VErmitage  en  ecorce. 

ROTS. 

Chapons  truffes.  Selle  de  mouton. 

ENTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 

Gardens  a  la  moelle.  Choux  fleurs  sauce  creme.  Petits  pois  au  beurre. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Poires  a  la  Richelieu. 

Pain  de  peches  Marechale.  Gelee  aux  ananas.  Gaufres  Chantilly. 
Getee  aux  fruits.  Coupole  a  I'Anglaise.  Gateaux  a  la  Reine. 
Glace  delicieux  aux  noisettes.  Biscuits  Tortoni. 
Petits  fours.  Caisses  de  fruits  glaces.  Devises,  Victoria. 
Bonbon  nieres  garnies.  Fruits.  Bonbons  surprise. 

Dessert. 

1 
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Pommes  Dauphine. 

Epinards  a  I'Espagnole. 

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Charlotte  Parisienne. 

Corbeilles  de  meringues. 

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Professeur  Tyudall. 

MENU, 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

6  Marie  Stuart.  Bisque 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Brissotins  au  suprei 

POISSONS. 

Rockfish  a  la  Regen 
frits,  sauce  tartare. 

RELEVES. 

ceuf  a  1'Indienrie. 

ENTREES. 

a  la  Lyonnaise. 

de  grouses,  sauce  bigarade. 
Cotelettes  de  ris  de  veau  aux  poi 

FROID. 

Galantine  de  dinde.  As] 
Sorbet  a  la  Dalmat 

ROTS. 

tete  rouge, 
Salade  d'escarolle 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR 

Plum  ponding  au  sab; 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR 

fruits. 

ictoria. 
Glaces  Napolitain 
Dessert. 

I  and  Fifth  Avenue. 

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1098 


THE    EPICUREAN". 


A  BORD  DU  "CITY  OF  PEKING"  DE  LA  PACIFIC  MAIL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 

DEJEUNER— GOUTER— DINER— SOUPER. 

AOUT,  1874.  POUR  300  PERSONNES. 


DEJEUNER. 

(Eufs.  Omelette  aux  fines  herbes.     (Eufs  aii  jambon.     (Eufs  Soubise. 

Poissons.  Saumon  grille,  maitre-d'hotel.     Filets  de  soles  a  la  Horly. 

Entrees.  Poulets  frits,  sauce  tomate.     Cotelettes  d'agneau  puree  de  pommes. 

Rognons  sautes  aux  champignons.     Tete  de  veau  vinaigrette. 
Froid.  Bosuf  a  la  mode.     Galantine  a  la  gelee.     Noix  de  veau  piquees  et  glacees. 

GOUTER. 

Releve.  Selle  d'agneau  rotie  a  1'Anglaise. 

Entrees.  Poulet  saute  aux  pommes  de  terre  et  fonds  d'artichauts. 

Froid.  Sandwichs,    jambon,  langues,  Longe  de  veau  a  la  gelee. 

Dessert.  Fromages,  fruits,  compotes,  cafe,  the. 

DINER. 

Potages.  Consomme  printanier.     Tortue  verte  a  1'Anglaise. 

Hors-d'oeuvre.  Bouchees  de  homard. 

Pousons.  Bass  raye  a  1'Italienne.     Salade  de  tomates. 

Maquereau  Espagnol,  sauce  Colbert.     Salade  de  concombres. 

Entrees.  Ris  de  veau  macedoine. 

Pigeonneaux  aux  petits  pois. 

Poulets  sautes  aux  truffes. 
Rots.  Cotes  de  boeuf.     Yorkshire  pudding. 

Becasses.     Chevreuil. 

Canards.     Salade  de  laitue. 
Entremets.  Haricots  de  Lima.     Mais  en  feuilles. 

Petits  pois  au  beuri-e. 

Peches  Conde.     Meringues  Chantilly.     Glace  vanille. 
Dessert.  Gaufres  cigarettes.     Devises.     Bonbons.    Fruits.    Fromage. 

Compotes.     Petits  fours. 


Froid. 


Consomme  en  tasses. 
Filet  de  boeuf. 


SOUPER. 


Pluviers  grilles. 

Salade  de  homard. 
Glaces  Napolitaine. 


Crabes  moux  frits. 
Galantine  aux  truffes. 


Servi  par  Delmonico. 


DELMONICO'S    MENUS. 


1099 


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POTAGES. 

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HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbale  Palermitaine. 

RELEVES. 

reau  Espagnol,  sauce  Colbei 
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ENTREES. 

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Becassines  au  cresson. 
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NTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 

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ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

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Lucines  (clovisses). 

POTAGES. 

nac.  B: 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbales  a  la  Renaissance. 

RELEVES. 

mate.  PI 
lie  d'agneau  aux  tomates  Rei 

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Sorbet  au  rhum. 

ROT. 

Becassines  au  cresson. 

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ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Croute  aux  ananas. 

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Dessert. 

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>RE,  1875. 
t  COUVERTS. 
IT  SANFORD. 

Milieu  de  table  dormant  de  flet 

Musique. 
Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

isomme'  Descazes.  Go: 

HORS-D'ffiUVRE. 

Cassolettes  a  la  Dumas. 

POISSONS. 

Sheepshead,  sauce  Hollandaise  et  G< 

Pommes  de  terre  croquettes 
Eperlans  desosses  et  frits,  mayonnaise 

RELEVES. 

Selle  de  chevreuil  a  la  Tyrolien 
Haricots  verts  sautes. 

ENTREES. 

Croustades  d'escargots  aux  cervelles  de 
Fonds  d'artichauts  supreme 
Estomacs  de  dindonneaux  Ambass 

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Canvas  back.  Homin 
Cailles  en  casseroles. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Timbales  a  la  Madison. 

ieux  aux  noisettes. 

•eet  and  Fifth  Avenue. 

is            2 

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MENU. 

Huitres 

POTAGES. 
ntanier.  Bisqi 

HORS-D'ffiUVRE. 

Boudins  a  la  Polonaise. 

RELEVES. 

Turban  de  saumon,  sauce  creme. 

Pommes  gastronome. 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  Montpensier. 
Petits  pois. 
Cotelettes  de  pigeonneaux  Signora. 
Haricots  verts  a  la  creme. 

isperges  blanches,  sauce  Hollandaisi 

^or6e#  ananas  au  Marasquin. 

ROTS. 

ers.  B^cas 
Salade  de  Komaine. 

Souffle's  de  Stilton  a  la  Sam  "Ward. 

noisettes  garnies  d'excellent  au  cafi 

Dessert. 

fth  Avenue. 

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DEJLMONICO'S    MENTIS. 


1101 


JUILLET,  1876. 
DINER  DE  40  COTJVERTS. 

En  rilouneur  du  Gouverneur  Tilden. 


MENU. 

Lucines  orang^es. 

POTAGES. 
Consomme"  a  la  Talleyrand.  Creme  de  pois  verts,  Saint  Germain. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Kenaissance. 

RELEVES. 

Saumon  a  la  Chambord.  Pommes  Duchesse. 

Selle  d'agneau  Salvandi. 

ENTREES. 

Poulets  nouveaux  Bagration. 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Cotelettes  de  pigeonneaux  Signora. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  sautes. 

Ris  de  veau  grille's,  sauce  Colbert. 
Chicore'e  a  la  creme. 

Sorbet  Andalouse. 


Brasses. 


ROT. 
ENTREMETS  SUCRE8. 

Croftte  aux  ananas  a  la  Victoria. 


Salade  de  laitue. 


Gele"e  aux  fruits. 
Gateau  Viennois. 


Coupole  Chantilly. 
Gaufres  de  Carlsbad. 


Glace  moul^e  le  faisan  garni  de  biscuits  Tortoni. 

Excellent  au  cafe. 
Petits  fours.  Bonbons.  Devises. 


Fruits. 


Charles  Lallouette,  Chef.    Fourteenth  Street  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


Delmonico. 


1102 

DECEMBRE,  1877. 
BUFFET  POUR  100  PERSONNES. 

FURIM  BALL. 


THE   EPICUREAN. 


MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon. 

Croquettes  de  volaille. 
Bouchers  de  ris  de  veau. 

FROID. 

Galantine  de  dinde. 

Pate"  de  gibier  aux  truffes. 

Salade  de  legumes  langues. 

Mayonnaise  de  volaille. 

Perdreaux  et  cailles  a  la  gele"a 

Sandwichs    assortis. 


Gtelee  aux  fruits. 
Bavarois  aux  peches. 


DESSERT. 


Gateau  Mathilda 
Meringues  Chantilly. 


Fruits. 


Bonbons. 


Glaces  Napolitaine. 

Biscuits  glac&s. 

Tutti-frutti. 

Mousse  aux  marrons. 

Pieces  mont^es. 


Petit  fours. 


Devises. 


Wuq.  Laperruque,  Chef.    Madison  Sqttare. 


jelmonneo 


DEX-MOISTICO'S    MENUS. 


1103 


AVR1L,  1878. 
DINER  DE  225  COUVERTS. 

En  THonneur  de  Mr.  Bayard  Taylor, 
Ministre  des  fitats  Unis  &  Berlin. 


Consomme1  Washington. 


Tortue  verte. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 
POTAGES. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 
Brissotins  a  la  Richelieu. 

RELEVES. 

Saumon  de  Kennebeck,  sauce  crevettes. 

Pommes  de  terre  Dauphine. 

Filet  de  boeuf  au  Madere. 

Tomates  farcies. 

ENTREES. 

Eetomacsde  dinde  a  rimperatrice. 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Escalopes  d'agneau  a  la  Cheron. 

Haricots  flageolets,  maitre-d'hotel. 

Mignons  de  canards,  sauce  bigarade. 

Asperges  en  branches,  sauce  creme. 
Mais  saute"  au  beurre. 


Chapons. 


Sorbet  Young  America. 
ROTS. 

Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRI3S. 

Pouding  a  la  Massena. 


Aspic  de  fruits. 
Corbeille  de  meringues. 
Gateau  noisettes. 
Glaces  mignonne. 
Fruits.  Petits  fours. 


Pigeonneaux. 


Bonbons. 


Charlotte  Russe. 
Pain  de  peches  Chantilly. 
Gateau  mille  feuilles. 
Dame  blanche. 
Devises. 


Euy.  Laperruque,  Chef.    Madisoii  Square. 


Delmonictj. 


1104  THE    EPICUREAN. 

FEVRIER,  1879. 
DINER  DE  14  COTJVEKTS. 

MR.  W.  K.  VANDKRBILT. 

MENU. 

Hultres. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Rachel.  Bisque  d'e'crevisses. 

HORS-D'ffiUVRE. 

Timbales  Napolitaines. 

RELEVES. 

Escalopes  de  bass,  Henri  IV.  Pommes  de  terre  surprise. 

Selle  de  mouton  Salvandi. 

ENTREES. 

Caisses  de  filets  de  poulet  Grammont. 

Choux  de  Bruxelles.  Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Saute  de  filets  de  grouses  Tyrolienne. 

Celeri  au  jus. 
Terrapene  a  la  Colombia. 


Sorbet  Aya-Pana. 

ROTS. 

Canvas-back  duck.  Cailles  truffles. 

Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Pcuding  a  la  Humboldt. 


Gele"e  d'orange  Orientale.  Gaufres  a  la  creme. 

Blanc  manger-  rubane".  Charlotte  Victoria. 

Claces  fruits  en  surprise.  Delicieux  Imperiale. 

Dessert. 
Madison  Square.  Delmonico 


1105 


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MENU 


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POTAGES. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE 

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a  Espagnol,  sai 

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THE    EPICTJUEAISI, 


JANVIER,  1880. 
DINER  DE  32  COUVEKTS. 

En  I'Honneurdu  General  Hancock. 


Consomme"  RacheL 


Pur6e  de  volaille  a  la  Reine. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

HORS-D'<EUVRE. 
Brissotins  au  supreme. 

POISSONS. 

Bass  raye"  aux  eperlans  Dauphin. 
Pommes  de  lerre  Duchesse. 


3ELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  cepes.  Selle  de  mouton  a  1'Anglaise. 

Epinards  a  1'Espagnole. 


ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  volaille  a  la  Hongroise. 

Petits  pois  Parisienne. 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  maison  d'Or. 
Haricots  panaches. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  farcis  aux  champignons. 


Terrapene  en  casserole  a  la  Maryland. 


Gel6e  Orientale. 
Glace  Napolitaine. 

Petits  fours. 


Sorbet  Montmorency. 

ROTS. 

Canvas-back  duck. 
Cailles  bardies  (salade  laitues). 

ENTREMETS    SUCRES. 

Timbale  Madison. 


Pieces  muiitees. 
Fruits.  Cafe. 


Gauf  res  Chantilly. 
Mousse  aux  bananes. 

Liqueurs. 


tfadison  Square. 


Delmonico 


DEJL,MONICO'S    MENUS. 


1107 


MARS,  1880. 
DINER  DE  230  COUVERTS. 

MR.  DE  LESSEPS. 


Consomme  Sultane. 


Bass  ray6  a  la  Conti. 
Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Rossini. 


MENU. 

Huitres  sur  coquilles. 
POTAGES. 

HORS-D'CETJVRE. 
Timbales  Perigordines. 

RELEVES. 

ENTREES. 


Creme  d'asperges  Princesse. 


Pommes  Duchesse. 
Tomates  farcies. 


Supreme  de  volaille  Lucullus. 

Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise. 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  Signora. 

Haricots  flageolets  sautes. 

Salmis  de  be'cassines  Lithuanienne. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  Provencale. 


ENTREES   FROIDES. 


Pain  de  gibier  en  Damier. 
Aspics  de  foies-gras  en  Bellevue. 


Voliere  de  faisans. 
Galantine  de  poulet  aux  truffes. 


Canvas-back. 


Gelee  printaniere. 
Gaufres  a  la  Chantilly. 


Glaces  Napolitaine. 


Sorbet  Montmorency. 
KOTS. 

Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

Croute  aux  ananas. 


PIECES  MONTEES. 


Dessert. 


Pigeonneaux. 


Lait  d'amandes  rubane. 
Gateau  Sicilien. 


Biscuits  glace's. 


Madison  Square. 


Delmonuio. 


1108  THE    EPICUREAN. 

JANVIER,  1881. 
BUFFET  POUR  200  PERSONNEL 

MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Bouillon  de  volaille. 

Huitres  a  la  poulette. 

Coquilles  de  petoncles  a  la  Brestoise. 

Dinde  farcie  aux  marrons  et  aux  truffes. 

Croquettes  de  volaille. 

Terrapenes. 

FROID. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Varsovienne. 

Buisson  de  langues  a  la  gelee. 

Galantine  de  chapon  truffee. 

Aspics  de  perdreaux  histories 
Volieres  de  cailles. 

Salade  de  volaille  au  celeri. 

Mayonnaise  de  crevettes  a  la  laitue. 

Petits  pains  garnis  de  Rillettes. 
Sandwichs   assortis. 

ENTREMETS    SUURES. 

Gelee  aux  oranges.  Bavarois  au  cafe". 

Charlotte  Doria.  Gaufres  a  la  creme. 

Gateau  baba.  Gateau  Mathilde. 

GLACES. 

Petites  glaces  a  la  creme  et  aux  fruits. 
Tutti-frutti.  Parfait  au  cafe. 

Biscuits  glaces. 

Fruits.  Petits  fours. 

Bonbons.  Devises. 

Caisses  et  fruits  glaces. 

Mr.  Othout.  S18  Madison  Avenue.  Servi  Par  Delnwntca 


DEILMONICO'S    MEXUS. 


1109 


r  au  Chasseur. 

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MENU. 

Lucines. 

POTAGES. 

;n6.  Pure"e  de  gi 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Petites  croustades  financiere. 

RELEVES. 

on  de  Kennebeck,  sauce  Holla 

Pommes  Marquise. 
Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Provengale 

ENTREES. 

a  la  Perigueux.  Pet 

Aspics  de  homards  a  la  gele"e. 
Fondu  au  Parmesan. 

Sorbet  au  CJiampagne. 

ROTS. 

elle  d'agneau,  sauce  Cumberlai 
anap^s.  Sa 

ENTREMETS  DE  LEGUMES. 

sperges  en  branches,  sauce  ere 

ENTREMETS  SUCRES. 

C 

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Hultres. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Rachel. 
Puree  a  la  Conde. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Brissotins  au  Supreme. 

RELEVES. 

s  raye",  sauce  Hollands 
Eperlans  en  Dauphin, 
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1110 


THE    EPICUREAN 


NOVEMBRE,  1882. 
BUFFET  POUR  40  PERSONNES. 

MR.  CHARLES  DANA. 


MENU. 


CHAUD. 

Consomme  de  volaille. 
Huitres  bechamel. 
Croquettes  panachees. 

Bouchees  au  financier. 


Rissolettes  Pompadour. 
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FROID. 

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Filet  de  boeuf  printaniere. 

Pate  de  gibier  aux  truffes. 

Ballotines  de  cailles  en  buisson. 

Chaudfroid  de  poularde  a  la  gelee. 
Salade  de  homard. 

Mayonnaise  de  volaille. 
Sandwichs. 

Canapes. 


Rillettes. 


ENTREMETS    SUCRES  FROIDS. 


Gelee  d'orange   Orientale. 
Gaufres  creme. 
Gateau  Viennois. 


Creme  bavaroise  a  1'abricot. 
Charlotte  Parisienne. 
Gateau  noisettes. 


Napolitaine. 


Tutti-frutti. 
Devises. 

Bonbons. 


Pieces  Monties. 

GLACES. 

Merveilleuse. 
Fruits. 
Cafe". 


Biscuit  glace*. 


Toronchino. 

Petits  fours. 
Dessert. 


Charles  Dana,  No.  19  East  tfth  Street. 


Servipar  Delmonico. 


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Menu  d'un  Diner  Original  de 
14  Cou verts. 
MR.  BENSON 


BUFFET   RUSSE. 

Canapes  de  caviar.     Olives  farcies.     Ce"leri. 

fiperlans.     Marine's  radis.     Canape's  d'anchois.     Olives  du  Lueques. 

Saucisson  de  Lyon.     Saucisson. 

Vermuth.     Sherry  et  bitters.     Absinthe. 


Johannisberg. 
Madcre. 


Chateau  Yquem. 


Lacrima  Christi. 


Chateau  Larose. 


Champagne  Pommery, 
Champagne  Perrier  Jouet 
Bourgogne  Mousseux. 


Huitres. 

Bisque  de  Lucines  (clams). 

Potage  a  1'oseille  aux  croutons. 

Crabes  d'huitres  frits.     Concombres  marine's. 

Timbales  de  sheepshead  a  J'Ambassadrice. 

Hoinards  grille's.     Salade  de  tomates. 

Vol  au  vent  d'aiiimelles  d'agneau  financiers. 

Terrapene  de'sosse'e  a  la  Newberg. 

Filet  de  boauf  Brillat-Savarin. 

Croquettes  de  pommes  de  terre  surprise. 

Casseroles  de  volaille  au  gourmet. 

Quenelles  de  pigeonneaux  aux  Topinambours. 

Cotelettes  d'agneau  a  1'Espagnole. 

Asperges  nouvelles  a  1'huile  et  a  la  sauce  Alcide. 

Champignons  nouveaux  sur  crofttes  grille'es. 

Souffles  au  fromage. 

Sorbet,  caf6  et  kirsch  en  e'corce  de  fruits  varies. 

Faisans  Anglais  rotis  au  cresson. 

Jambon  .grille.     Bananes  frites.     Salade  laitue.     Maches. 

Artichauts,  sauce  Ijavaroise 

Pouding  de  fruits      Sabayon  Madere 

Glace  cygne  aux  roseaux. 

Moulin  a  vent  sur  soclo. 

Macedoine  de  fruits  en  bordure  de  Madeleine. 

Cafe".  Liqueurs. 


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DINER  DE  150  Cou VERTS. 

"USQUE  AD  SUPEROS" 

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Chablis  Vieux. 


Amontillado. 


Rudesheimer  Berg. 
Cliquot  doux. 

St.  Pierre. 


Ctos  Vougeot. 


Vieux  Porto. 


MENU. 

Huitres  sur  coquilles  de  Neptune. 

POTAGE. 
Consomme  aux  oeufs  de  Leda. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 

Celeri  des  Hesperides.  Olives  du  Mont  Ida 

Timbale  a  la  Reine  Junon. 

POISSON. 
Bass  &  la  M6duse  Divine. 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  1'Heroule  Antique. 

ENTREES. 

Dinde  aux  trois  Graces. 

Agneau  aux  sourires  de  Psyoh£. 

Cotelettes  a  1'Harmonie  des  Sirenes. 


Sorbet  aux  plaisirs  Olympiens. 


ROTS. 

Canard  sauvage  a  la  Jupiter. 
Salade  aux  larmes  d'H6be\ 


LEGUMES. 


Petits  pois  a  la  Priam. 
Epinards  a  la  fleur  de  Lotus. 


Haricots  verts  a  1'Aurore. 
Pommes  £  la  Toison  d'Or. 


ENTREMETS    SUCRES. 


Croutes  d'ananas  aux  reflets  de  1'Enfer.    Gelde  aux  raisins  de  Bacchus. 
Charlotte  a  la  Phineas.  Gaufres  a  la  Proserpine. 

Pieces  Montees  ^  la  Mercure. 

Glaces  a  la  Vierge  Vestale. 

Petits  fours  &  1'Ambroisie  Fruits  au  Mont  Helion. 

Fromage  a  la  Flore.  Gate1  au  Nectar  Divin. 


Madiron  Square. 


Delmonic* 


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MAI,  1885. 

DINER  DE  30  COUVERTS. 
MR.  N.  L.  THIEBLIN  (RIGOLO). 


MENU. 


Chablis. 


Amontillado,  1834. 


Scharzh  ofbtrger 
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Rauzan. 


Lucines  (clams). 

POTAGES. 
Consomme1  Sevigne'. 

HOIIS-D'CEUVRE. 
Bressoles  Chateaubriand. 

POISSO.VS. 

Saumon  grille  a  la  Colbert. 
Aiguillettes  de  kingfish  Margueiy. 

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Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Richelieu  Moderne. 
Selle  d'agneau  de  lait  aux  laitues  braise"es. 

ENTREES. 

Pate"  chaud  a  la  financiere. 

Ris  de  veau  ft  la  Theodora. 


Tortue  verte  a  1'Anglaige. 


Concombres. 
Pommes  gastronome. 


Sorbet  a  la  Montmorency. 
ROTS. 

Poulets  reine  truffe's  a  la  Perigueux. 
Chambertin.  B6cassines  sur  canapes  au  cresson. 

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Creme  frite  a  1' Augusta  (chaud). 
Charlotte  de  pommes  aux  abricots  (chaud). 
Gaufres  creme  marasquin.  Tartelettes  aux  cerises. 

PIECES   MONTEES 

Fruits  frais.  Fraises  Compotes. 

Fromage.  Amandes  salves.  Bonbons 

Devises  Fruits  cristallise's.  Marrons  rotis. 

Liqueurs.  Cafe" 


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MAtib,  188o. 
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FRIENDLY  SONS  OF  ST.  PATRICK. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 
Consomme  Imperiale.  Bisque  d'ecrevisses 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  Diplomate. 

POISSON. 

Saumon,  sauce  Hollandaise  vert-pre. 
fiperlans  frits.  Pommes  Viennoise. 

RELEVE. 
Filet  de  boeuf  Napolitaine.  Haricots  verts  sautes. 

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Ris  de  veau  chevreuse.  Tomates  farcies. 

Escalopes  de  bass  a  la  Joinville  Petits  pois  Francaise. 


Sorbet  Monlhiere. 


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Salade  de  crabes  mavonnaise. 

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Gel6e  aux  mirabelles.  Charlotte  Parisienne. 

Pieces  monte'eg. 

G\u*-e  creme  pralinee.  Biscuits  glaces. 

Fruits.  Dessert. 


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TliE    EPICURKAJN 


NOVEMBRE,  1887. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

ST.  ANDREWS  SOCIETY. 


Consomme1  Deslignac. 


MENU. 

Hultres. 

POTAGES. 

HORS-D'OEUVRE. 
Timbales  Reine. 

POISSON. 

Saumon,  sauce  Hollandaise  vert-pre. 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  aux  champignons. 

ENTREES. 

Poularde  a  la  Chevreuse. 
Caisse  de  ris  de  veau  Italienne. 

Haggis  a  1'Ecossaise. 


Sorbet  Impiriale. 


Canards  a  tete  rouge. 


ROT. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 
Pouding  aux  bananes. 


Tortue  verte  au  Clan. 


Pommes  a  la  Viennoise. 


Choux  de  Bruxelles. 


Petits  pois  au  beurre. 
Haricots  verts  a  TAnglaise. 


Salade  de  laitue. 


Gelee  aux  cerises. 


Fruits. 


Charlotte  Russe. 


Olaces  fantaisie  vari6es. 
Pieces  montees. 

Cafe. 


Petits  fours. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Detmonico 


DE-LMONICO'S    MKNUS. 


1121 


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Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

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HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbales  Lagardere. 

Truites  de  riviere  ravigote  v< 

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,u  a  la  Colbert. 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Lucul 
Petits  pois  au  beurre. 
Terrapene  a  la  Marylan 
Asperges,  sauce  Hollands 

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Pieces  monte"es. 

Glaces  de  fantaisie. 
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Cafe. 

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AVRIL,  1888. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

OHIO  SOCIETY. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Consomme1  Deslignac. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 
POTAGES. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Mentana. 

POISSON. 

Saumon  sauce  crevettes. 
Pommes  a  TAnglaise. 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  bceuf  a  la  Chevrelat. 
Tomates  farcies. 

ENTREES. 

Chapons  a  la  Lyonnalse. 

Petits  pois  au  beurre. 
Croquettes  de  homard  a  la  Victoria. 


Be"cassines  bardies. 


Fruits. 


Sorbet  Regence. 

ROT. 
ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Savarin  aux  cerises. 
Glaces  Napolitaine. 

Cafe. 


Creme  d'asperges. 


Salade  de  laitue. 


Petits  scours. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delmonico 


MENUS. 


1123 


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Lucines. 

POTAGES. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Varies. 
Timbales  Lagardere. 

POISSON. 

uillettes  de  bass  Rich 
Pommes  Viennoise. 

RELEVES. 

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C61eri  braise. 

ENTREES. 

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THE    EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER,  1889. 
DINER  DE  250  COUVERTS. 

Annual  Dinner  given  by  the  Superintendent, 

Inspectors  and  Captains  of  the 

New  York  Police. 


MENU. 


POTAGES. 


Consomme  Remusat. 


Bisque  d'e'crevisses. 


HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Perigordine. 

POISSON. 

Saumon,  sauce  Hollandaise  vert-pre1. 
Pommes  a  la  Rouennaise. 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  bosuf  aux  champignons. 
Tomates  au  gratin. 


ENTREES. 

Dinde  farcie  aux  matrons. 
Caisse  de  ris  de  veau  Grammont. 


Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 
Haricots  panache's. 


Sorbet  Royale. 


Canvas-back  duck. 


ROTS. 


Salade  de  laitue. 


Gelee  au  Centerba. 


Fruits. 


ENTREMETS  DE   DOUCEUR. 

Pouding  Schiller. 

Pieces  montees. 
Glaces    fantaisie. 

Cafe. 


Gauf  res  a  la  creme. 


Petits  fours. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delmonico. 


DELMONICO'S    MENUS. 


1125 


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1126 


THE:  EPICUREAN. 


JANVIER,  1890. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVEETS. 

SECOND  PANEL  SHERIFF'S  JURY. 


Consomme  Bourdaloue. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  a  la  Keine. 

POISSON. 

Saumon  sauce  homard. 
Pommes  de  terre  Duchesse. 


Creme  d'artichauts. 


RELEVES. 


Filet  de  boeuf  Perigueux. 


Choux  de  Bruxelles. 


ENTREES. 

Poulet  braises  a  la  Lyonnaise. 
Ris  de  veau  sauce  tomates  Andalouse. 
Haricots  flageolets  sautes. 


Sorbet  Dalmatie. 


Fruits. 


ROT. 

Canvas-back  ducks. 
Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS    DE  DOUCEUR. 

Croutes  aux  poires. 

Pieces  montees. 
Glaces  fantaisie. 

Cafe. 


Petits  fours. 


Hadison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delmonlca 


DELMOTsTICO'S    MENTIS. 


JANVIER,  1890. 
DINER  DE  220  COUVERTS. 

HOTEL  MEN'S  ASSOCIATION. 


1127 


fiperlans  frits. 


MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  St.  Germain. 
Bisque  d'Ecrevisses  Dumont  Durville. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Petites  timbales  a  la  Soubise. 


POISSONS. 
Aiguillettes  d'halibut  a  la  Duglere". 

RELEVES. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  1'Aquitaine. 
Petits  pois  Parisienne. 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Genin. 

Macedoine  St.  Cloud. 

Ris  de  veau  puree  de  marrons. 

Aubergines  frites. 


Pommes  Viennoise. 


Fruits. 


Sorbet  Marquise. 

ROT. 
Canards  a  tete  rouge. 

FROID. 

Terrine  de  foies-gras  de  Strasbourg. 
Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS    DE   DOUCEUR. 

Croutes  aux  ananas. 

Pieces  montees. 
Glaces  fantaisie. 

Cafe. 


Petits  fours. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delmonico. 


THE    EPICUREAN 


JANVIER,  1891. 
BUFFET  ASSIS  POUR  300  PERSONNEL 

THB  "  PATRIARCHS." 


MENU. 

CHAUD. 

Consomme". 

Huitres  Viennoise. 

Croquettes  de  chapon. 

Bouchees  aux  crevettes. 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland. 

Cafe  et  the. 

FROID. 


Sandwichs. 


Filet  de  boeuf  Francillon. 

Galantine  de  poulet  a  1'Anglaise. 

Terrine  de  Nerac  aux  truffes. 

Aspic  de  foies-gras  decore. 

Dinde  en  daube  a  i'Ancienne. 

Cailles  piquees  roties  au  cresscn. 

Salade  de  homard. 

Mayonnaise  de  volaille. 

Rillettes. 


Canapes. 


Glaces  fantaisie. 
Monte"limar. 


Bonbons. 


ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Gelee  aux  oranges. 
Brisselets  a  la  Chantilly. 

Gateau  Madeleine. 
Bavarois  aux  abricots. 

Pieces  m  on  tees. 


Devises. 


Fruits. 


Dessert. 


Tutti-frutti. 
Biscuit  Diplomate. 

Petits  fours. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delmonico. 


DELMONICO'S    MEXUS. 


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NOVEMBRE,  1892. 
DINER  DE  250  COUVERTS. 

Offert  &  THonorable  Grover  Cleveland. 


THE    EPICUREAN, 


MENU. 


Huitres. 


POTAGES. 


Consomme"  &  la  Grammont. 


Bisque  d'ecrevisses. 


HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Timbales  Eenaissance. 

POISSON. 

Aiguillettes  de  bass  Massena. 


Concombres. 


Pommes  Viennoise. 


RELEVE. 


Filet  de  boeuf  Condi. 


Tomates  Trevise. 


ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  volaille  supreme  aux  truffes. 
Petits  pois  Parisienne. 
Terrapene  Baltimore. 

Sorbet  Columbus. 

ROT. 
Canvas-back  ducks. 


Foies-gras  &  la  gelee. 


Fruits. 


FROID. 
ENTREMETS   DE  DOUCEUR. 

Pommes  au  praslin. 

Pieces  montees. 

Glaces    fantaisie. 

Cafe. 


Salade  de  laitna 


Petits  fours. 


Ofadistm  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Dftmtmico. 


D-ELMONIOO'S    MENUS. 


1131 


AVEIL,  1892. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

Donne  par  la  Chambre  de  Commerce  en 
Thonneur  de  MR.  WHITELAW  REID. 


Sherry  and  Bitters. 
Haut  Sauterne. 

Sherry  Pnncesse. 


Diedesheimer. 


Champagne. 


Chdteau  Lagrange. 


Beaujolais. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  Berchoux. 
Tortue  verte  au  clair. 

HORS-D'(EUVRE. 

Timbales  a  la  Dumas. 

POISSON. 

Saamon  a  la  Eoyale. 
Pommes  Duchesse. 

RELEVE. 

Filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Perigueux. 
Choux-fleurs  au  gratln. 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  Montebello. 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Terrapene  a  la  Baltimore. 

Sorbet  Imperiale. 

ROT. 

Pluviers  bardes. 


FROID. 
Terrine  de  foies-gras  a  la  gelee. 


ENTREMETS   DE  DOUCEUR. 

Savarin  aux  ananas. 


Salade. 


Liqueurs. 


Gelee  aux  fruits. 


Fruits. 


Meringues  Chantilly. 


Pieces  monte"es. 

Glaces  de  fantaisie. 

Petits  fours. 


Cafe. 


Muaimm  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Uelm&nico. 


I1S3 

JANVIER,  1892. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

FIRST  PANEL  SHERIFF'S  JURY. 


THE   EPICUREAN. 


Consomme"  Deslignac. 


MENU. 

Hultres. 
POTAGES. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Bouchees  Chevreuse. 


Tortne  verte  claim 


POJSSON. 

Saumon  de  1'Oregon,  sauce  MontebeHo. 
Pommes  de  terre  Duchesse. 


RELEVE. 


Selle  de  rnouton  Anglaise. 
Eptnards  au  veloute. 


ENTREES. 


Poulardes  farcies  aux  truffes. 

Petits  pois  a  1'  Anglaise. 

Ris  de  veau  en  caisses  a  la  Grammont. 

Haricots  panaches. 


Sorbet  Imperiale. 

ROT. 
Canards  a  tete  rouge. 

FROID. 

Temne  de  f  oies-gras  de  Strasbourg. 
Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUB. 

Poires  a  la  Judic. 


Glaces  Napolitaine. 


Pieces  montees. 


Caf& 


f  oura- 


Modiixm  Sauare  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Uttmmwa 


JDELMONTCO'S    MENUS. 


1133 


FEVRIER,  1892. 
DINER  DE  9  COUVERTS. 
GKNKRAL  HORACE  PORTER. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Consommfi  Condorcet.  Bisque  de  crevettes. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Varies.  Varies. 


Bass  raye  a  1'Amiral. 


POISSON. 


Pommes  Dauphiub. 


RELEVE. 

Selle  de  Chevreuil  Tyrolienne. 
Aubergines  frites. 

ENTREES. 

Filets  de  poulet  Toulouse.  Petits  pois  &  1'Anglaise. 

Terrapene  Baltimore. 

Sorbet  au  Champagne. 


Canard  ft  t6te  ronge. 


Fruits. 


EOT. 

ENTREMETS  DE    DOUCEUR. 

Plum  pouding  au  rhum. 
Cafe\ 


Salade  de  laitue. 


Petits  fours. 


Madiso.  •>  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


1134 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


MENU. 

Huitres 

g0t*0*5 

Consomme,  Souveraine  Tortue  verte  a  I'anglaise 

&QK&  A'atitnvvz 

Timbales,  PeVigourdine 


Bass  rayee,  Massena 
Pommes  de  terre,  fondantep 


Filet  de  bceuf  aux  olives  farcies 
Tomates,  Tr6vise 


Chapon  a  1'Amphitryon 

Petits  pois,  parisienne 
Terrapene  a  la  Newberg 

SORBET   TUL1PE 


Canvas-back  Duck 


Caillea 


Terrine  de  foie-gras 
Salade  de  laitue 


Po  mmes  a  la  Conde 

Gelee  aux  oranges  Gaufres,  Chantilly 

Glaces  fantaisies 
Fruits. 


Dessert 
Cafe 


Mardi.  le  21  Novembre,  1893. 


Pieces  months 
Petits  fours 

DELMONICO'S 


at  OomnuTU  at  tlit  *t>u  of 

ONE    HUMORED    AND     TWENTY-FIFTH    ANNUAL.    BANQUET.. 


(iliiiiiiii!ifhiii!i 

!    M    i  i  I  i      i  i    ! !  i  i      i 

I    S    1    >    5    i    I   1    i   i    i   1    I    S    i    1    1    »    i    i    1 


/    l\ 


E== 


MEZSTUS.  1185 


MAI,  1893. 

DfNER  DE   14   COU VERTS. 

Columbus  Centennial  Diner  en  THonneur  de 
8.  A.  I.  le  Prince  de  Russie. 


MENU. 


BUFFET. 

C»nap6s  d'anchois.  Caviar.  Olives.  Thon  marin& 

Tartelettes  de  homard. 
Lticines  (clams). 

POTAGES. 

Consomme  a  la  Souveraine, 
Creme  d'asperges. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE  CHAUD. 
Timbales  au  Prince  Imperial. 

POISSON. 

Truites  de  riviere,  sauce  Hollandaise  verl-pr& 
Pommes  de  terre  fondantes. 

RELEVE. 

Selle  d'agneau  aux  fritadelles. 
Tomates  a  la  Keine. 

ENTREES. 

Ailes  de  poulet  a  la  Lucullus.  Petits  pois  a  la  Parisienne. 

Champignons  sous  cloche. 


Sorbet  bouquetfere  a  la  Russe. 

ROT. 
Pigeonneaux  au  cresson. 

FROID. 
Mousse  de  foies-gras  en  bordure. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Savarin  aux  ananas. 

Glace  pouding  Komanoff 

Fruits.  Petits  fours. 

Cafe. 


Ofert  par  Mr.  F.  S.  Smith.  Delnwnica. 


1136 

AVR1L,  1893. 
DINER  DE  200  COUVERTS. 

ST.  GEORGE  SOCIETY. 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


Consomme"  Souveraine. 


MENU. 

Huitres. 

POTAGES. 
HORS-D'<EUVRE. 

Timbales  a  1'ficarlate. 
POISSON. 


Creme  St.  Germain. 


Bass  raye"  au  gratin. 


Pommes  de  terre  Viennoise. 


RELEVE. 

Baron  de  boeuf  Yorkshire  pouding. 

Pommes  de  terre  roties. 

Tomates  farcies. 

ENTREES. 

Pigeonneaux  a  la  Chevreuse. 

Petits  pois  a  1'Anglaise. 

Asperges  sauce  creme. 


Sorbet  R6gence. 


ROT. 


Chapons. 


Salade  d'escarolle. 


ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Plum  pouding  St.  George. 


Charlotte  Russe. 
Fruits. 

Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Pieces  monte"es. 

Glaces    fantaisie. 
Cafe". 


Gele"e  au  Madere. 
Petits  fours. 


Delmonteo. 


MENUS. 


113? 


NOVEMBRE,  1893. 

DINER  OFPEBT  PAR 

MR.  L.  C.  DELMONICO  A 

MR.  JEAN  CHARLES  CAZIN. 


MENU. 

Eaut  Sauterne.  Huitres. 

POTAGES. 

Amontillado.  Consomm6  a  la  Daumout. 

HORS-D'CEUVRE. 
Mousseline  Chantillv. 


Bisque  d'ecrevisses. 


Hochheimer. 


C/idt.  Lagrange. 


Chambertin. 


Krug  Sec. 


Liqueurs. 


POISSONS. 

Aiguillettes  de  bass  Mornay  gratin. 
Pommes  de  terre  fondantes. 

RELEVES. 

Selle  d'agneau  tardif  a  la  Colbert. 
Fonds  d'artichauts  Florentine. 

ENTREES. 

Terrapene  a  la  Maryland. 

Vol  au  vent  de  ris  de  veau  financiere. 

Petits  pois  a  la  Parisienne. 


Sorbet  "  Elsinore." 

ROTS. 

Canvas-back  duck,  hominy  et  currant  ge!6e. 
Chapons  farcis  aux  truffes  et  marrons. 

FROID. 

Petits  aspics  de  foies-gras. 
Salade  de  laitue. 

ENTREMETS  DE  DOUCEUR. 

Beignets  Alliance,  sauce  abricots. 

GLACES. 

Cygne  aux  roseaux. 
Lapin  en  surprise. 


Fruits. 


Petits  fours. 


Cafe. 


Madison  Square  and  Twenty-sixth  Street. 


Delninntco 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


PAGE. 

Absinthe,  iced 1066 

Accola 367 

Al  ligator  wears 355 

Almonds  -.act  filberts,  burnt 169 

-burnt 1046 

—  Conde  or  filbert  preparation 169 

—  cream.. . . .' 182 

—  milk 169 

—  milk  and  mulled  eggs  thickened  with 

rice  flour 285 

—  paste 201 

—  paste,  candied 1034 

—  pistachios  or  filberts,  to  peel 169 

—  salted 1058 

—  to  chop  or  shred 169 

—  to  pound,  crush  or  color 169 

Anchovies,  fried 457 

—  fritters 368 

—  salad 355 

—  with  olives 355 

Angel  fish  a  la  Bahama 427 

Antelope,  saddle,  Huntress  style 668 

Appetizers  and  mixed  drinks 1065 

Apples  a   la  Giudici 873 

—  a  la  Nelson 873 

—  baked 873 

—  Baron  de  Brisse  style 874 

—  browned  (Fig.  572) 874 

—  cake 948 

—  glazed  (Fig.  586) 907 

—  glazed,  marmalade  of 908 

—  in  surprise 874 

—  Nubian,  meringued 874 

—  "  pain  "  with  vanilla 875 

—  Portuguese 875 

—  puree,  frothy,  of;  apple  syrup 908 

—  with  burnt  almonds 875 

—  with  butter 875 

Apricots  a  la  Jefferson  875 

—  nougat  of 954 

—  with  cream  of  almonds 948 

Arabian  racahout 1059 

Artichoke  bottoms  a  la  Florence 815 

—  bottoms  a  la  Jussienne 815 

—  bottoms  a  la  Montglas 815 

—  bottoms  a  la  Mornay 816 

—  bottoms  a  la  Soubise 816 

—  bottoms  a  la  Villars 816 

—  bottoms  fried 816 

-  bottoms  Printan:-«-     , 355 

-  bottoms,  stuffed — lean 81  fi 

bottoms  with  baked  cauliflower  ....  816 


PAGE. 

Artichoke  bottoms  with  cream  bechamel.  817 

—  bottoms  with  marrow 817 

• — quartered,  Colbert,  marrow,  "Villeroi.  817 

—  whole  a  la  Barigoule  (Figs.  542  to  548)  817 

—  whole  a  la  Rachel 818 

—  whole,    boiled,    with   white    sauce    or 

vinaigrette  sauce , 818 

—  whole  small  appetite 356 

—  whole  small  raw  poivrades 356 

Asparagus  boiled,  Hollandaise  or  Mousse- 
line  sauce 818 

—  Countess  style — heads    818 

—  in  small  bunches — heads 819 

—  tops  a  la  Maintenon 819 

—  tops  a  la  Miranda — fried 819 

—  tops  with  cheese 819 

Aspic  essence — hot , , ...  0 ...  290 

—  of  cocks'-combs  and  kidneys  a  la  Maza- 

rin 723 

—  of  foies-gras 723 

—  of  foies  gras — small  (Fig.  446) 724 

—  of  foies-gras  in  terrine — whole  (Fig. 

447) 724 

—  of  lobster  (Fig.  448) 725 

—  of  oysters 725 

—  of  partridge— minion  fillets  (Fig.  449).  725 

—  of  pheasant 726 

—  of  pullet  a  la  Cussy 726 

—  of  quails — breasts 727 

—  of  tongues  a  la  Picquart  (Fig.  450) 727 

—  of  veal,  Macedoine  artichokes — kernel  728 

—  of  shrimps — small 728 

Attfireaux  of  beef  palate  (Fig.  214) 368 

—  of  chicken  a  la  D'Antin 368 

—  of  fat  liver. 368 

—  of  oysters 369 

—  Piedmontese 369 

—  of  sweetbreads  a  la  Moderne . .  369 

—  of  turkey  or  game 369 

Baba  (see  cakes) 932 

—  paste 201 

—  with  Marsala;  preparation  of  fruits..  876 

—  with  rum — small 948 

Bacon,  smoked,  with  spinach,  English  style  569 

Bakery  (Plate) 969 

Ballot! nes  of  lamb,  cupola-shaped 729 

—  quails  a  la  Tivolier 729 

—  squabs  a  la  Madison  (Figs.  452,  453).  730 

Bananas,  cherry  sauce,  fried b76 

Baskets  filled  with  candied  or   ice  cream 

fruits 1036 

—  of  nougat  with  cream  (Fig.  587) 908 


(1139) 


1140 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Baskets  of  oranges  with  jelly 909 

Bass,  black,  a  la  Narragansett 427 

—  black,  aiguillettes,  with  oyster  crabs.  427 

—  black,  with  sweet  peppers 427 

—  red ;  water  fish 428 

—  sea,  a  la  Villeroi 428 

—  sea,  with  almond  butter 428 

—  striped,  a  la  Bercy — rock  bass  (Fig. 285)  428 

—  stri  ped ,  a  la  Conti 429 

—  striped,  a  la  Laguipierre. 429 

—  striped,  a  la  Long  Branch 429 

—  striped,  a  la  Maintenon 429 

—  striped,  a  la  Manhattan,  or  sea  bass. .  731 

—  striped,  a  la  Massena — whole 429 

—  striped,  a  la  Mornay 430 

—  striped,  a  la  Rouennaise 430 

—  striped,  a  la  Whitney 430 

—  striped,  boiled,    Hollandais-e    modern 

sauce 430 

—  striped,  shrimp  sauce  with  fried  scal- 

lops   430 

—  striped,  with  fine  herbs 430 

—  striped,  with  white  wine — baked 431 

Bastion  a  1'Americaine  (Fig.  454) 732 

Bateaux  of  fat  livers,  Russian  style 369 

Batters,  frying 203 

Bavarois,  chocolate 909 

—  in  surprise 909 

—  raspberry 909 

-  vanilla 909 

—  with  chestnuts 910 

— with  meringues 909 

Bavaroise  (drink) 283 

Beans,  fresh,  with  cream  and  English  style  819 

—  Lima  or  kidney  beans,  malt  re-d 'hotel.  819 

—  red,   smothered 820 

—  string,  a  1' Albani 841 

—  string,  a  la  Bourguignonne 842 

—  string,  a  la  Pettit 842 

—  string,  marinated 366 

—  string,  smothered 842 

—  string,  with  butter 842 

—  white,  Bretonne 820 

—  white,  thickened,  maitre-d'hotel 820 

Bear  steaks,  broiled 637 

Beef,  American  and  French  cuts  (Figs.  302, 

303,  304) 472 

—  baron,  a  la  St.  George 471 

—  brains  (see  calf's  brains) 507 

—  breast  or  brisket,  a  la  Florence 471 

—  breast,  corned,  with  cabbage 471 

—  corned,   round    bottom,  top,    English 

style 473 

—  corned,  pressed — cold 733 

—  edge  or  aitchbone  boiled,  cream  horse- 

radish sauce 474 

—  grenadins  (see  tenderloins) 489 

—  hash,  corned  beef,  American  style. ..  693 

—  kidneys  (see  veal  kidneys) 517 

—  Kulash  a  la  Finnoise 474 

—  marrow  bones  on  toast 474 

—  minions  (see  tenderloin) 491 


PAGB. 

Beef  noisettes  (see  tenderloin) 493 

—  oxtails  (see  oxtails) 474 

—  palates  a  la  bechamel 475 

—  palates  Chevreuse — baked 476 

—  palates  escalops  with  puree  of  chest- 

nuts (Fig.  422) 690 

—  palates  in  tortue 476 

—  ribs  a  la  Bristed 476 

—  ribs  a  1'Hindostan 476 

—  ribs,    American     style  —  thirty  -  two 

pounds 477 

—  ribs — cold  (see  ribs  of  beef) 733 

—  ribs,  old  style 477 

—  ribs,  spare,  deviled 477 

—  round  buttock  top  a  la  in  ode,  ( Parisian 

style    478 

—  round  buttock  top,  baked 477 

—  round  buttock  top,  smothered 477 

—  rump,  a  la  Boucicault 478 

—  rump,  a  la  Careme 478 

—  rump,  a  la  Chatellier 479 

—  rump,  a  la  mode,  Bourgeoise  style. . .  479 

—  rump,  Flemish  style 479 

—  rump,  Greek  style;  stuffed  tomatoes..  479 

—  rump,  Jardiniere 480 

—  rump,  Mirotons  a  la  Menagere 480 

—  rump,  modern  style — braised  (Fig.  305)  480 

—  middle  short  loin,  English  Style  (Fig. 

306) 481 

—  middle   short    lo'n  a  la   Messinoise — 

braised 481 

—  middle  short  loin  a  la  Norwood   482 

—  sirloin,  a  la  Bradford;  corn  fritters  and 

croquettes 482 

—  sirloin,  a  la  Dauphiness 482 

—  sirloin,  a  la  Degrange;  carrots  and  peas 

and  fried  celery 482 

—  sirloin,  a  la  De  Lesseps  (Fig.  307) 483 

—  sirloin,  a  la  Perrin 483 

—  sirloin,  a  la  Thieblin 483 

—  sirloin,  with  brain  patties 483 

—  sirloin,  with  chicory  and  souffled  sweet 

potatoes 484 

—  sirloin,  with  Jerusalem  artichokes...  .  484 

—  smoked,  round  top,  with  cream 484 

—  steak,  chopped,  Salisbury , 484 

—  steak,  Hamburg  style 484 

—  steak,  Hamburg  and  a  la  Tartare 484 

—  steak,  porterhouse  (Fig.  308) 485 

—  steak,  porterhouse,    a  la    Sanford  — 

double 485 

—  steak,  rib,  a  la  Bercy 485 

—  steak,  rib,  a  la  Royer  (Fig.  309) 485 

—  steak,  round,  with  water-cress 485 

—  steak,  rump,  a  la  Villageoise 486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  a  la  Bearnaise — small. .  486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  a  la  Bordelaise — small. .  486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  a  la  Bordelaise  with  mar- 

row— small 486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  a   la    Bordelaise    witi) 

marrow  and  truffles — small 486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  ancient  style . .........  487 


INDEX. 


1141 


PAGE. 
Beef  steak,    sirloin,   plain,  twelve  ounces 

(Fig.  310) 486 

—  steak,  sirloin,  with    butter   and    fine 

herbs 487 

—  steak,     sirloin,     Delmonico  —  plain, 

twenty  ounces 487 

—  steak,  sirloin,   Delmonico,  a  la   Peri- 

gueux 487 

—  steak,  sirloin,  Delmonico,  Spanish  style 

(Fig.  311) 487 

—  steak,    sirloin,    for   gourmets — extra, 

forty  ounces  (Fig   312) 487 

—  steak,  tenderloin  (see  tenderloin) 495 

—  tenderloin — to  prepare 488 

—  tenderloin,     Chateaubriand  —  plain, 

twenty  ounces  (Fig.  313) 488 

—  tenderloin,     Chateaubriand,     Colbert 

sauce 488 

—  tenderloin,      Chateaubriand,     maitre- 

d'hotel  sauce  thickened 488 

—  tenderloin  Chateaubriand  with  scuffled 

potatoes — double;  two  and  a  half 

pounds 489 

—  tenderloin  cutlets  a  la  Babanine 687 

—  tenderloin  cutlets  a  la  Bienville 687 

—  tenderloin   escalops  with   truffles   (Fig. 

421)  690 

—  tenderloin    grenadins  a,   la   Beaumar- 

chais 489 

—  tenderloin  grenadins  a  la  Boniface. . .  489 

—  tenderloin  grenadins  a  la  Halevy 489 

—  tenderloin  grenadins  as  venison,  poiv- 

rade  sauce 489 

—  tenderloin  grenadins,  Marc  Aurele. . ..  490 

—  tenderloin  grenadins,  Paladio 490 

—  tenderloin  grenadins,  plain;  five  ounces 

(Fig.  314) 489 

—  tenderloin  grenadins,  Previllot 490 

—  tenderloin   grenadins,  Rochambeau . .  736 

—  tenderloin     grenadins     with      celery 

bechamel 490 

—  tenderloin  grenadins  with  round  pota- 

toes, Valois  sauce 490 

—  tenderloin      grenadins,     with     sweet 

peppers 490 

—  tenderloin  minced  a  la  Andrews 491 

—  tenderloin  minced  a  la  Beekman 491 

—  tenderloin  minced,  Creole  style 491 

—  tenderloin    minced,  with   potato   cro- 

quettes   491 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Baillard 491 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Cheron 491 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Duma&;  ham 

croquettes 492 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Fearing 492 

—  tendsrloin  minions  a  la  Meyerbeer. . . .  492 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Salvini 492 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Stanley 492 

—  tenderloin  minions  a  la  Vernon 493 

—  tenderloin  minions,  plain  (Fig.  315)..  491 

—  tenderloin   minions   with   cepes   a   la 

Bordelaise.  .  493    4. 


PAGE. 
Beef  tenderloin  minions  with    chestnuts, 

Marsala  sauce 493 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Berthier 493 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Bonnefoy. . . .  493 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Fleurette  . . .  494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Magny 494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Maire 494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  NiQoise 494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  a  la  Rossini 494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes  in  surprise 494 

—  tenderloin  noisettes,  plain  (Fig.  316). .  493 

—  tenderloin  noisettes,  Triumvir 494 

—  tenderloin    noisettes    with    puree    of 

mushrooms 495 

—  tenderloin  paupiettes  with  cooked  fine 

herbs  (Fig.  317) 495 

—  tenderloin  pilau  a  la  Reglain 495 

—  tenderloin  potted  a  la  Nelson 701 

—  tenderloin  pudding  with  oysters 701 

—  tenderloin    steak,    plain,    broiled    or 

sauted,  ten  ounces  (Fig.  318) 495 

—  tenderloin  steak  with  anchovy  butter.  495 

—  tenderloin   steak    with   Madeira,  half 

glaze 496 

—  tenderloin  steak  with  marrow 496 

—  tenderloin  steak  with  mushrooms. .  . .  496 

—  tenderloin  steak  with  olives 496 

—  tenderloin  steak  with  truffles 496 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Bretigny. . .  496 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Flavignan, 

with  small  stuffed  tomatoes 497 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Hutchings, 

horseradish  croquettes 497 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Laguipierre.  497 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Marietta.  . .  497 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Roqueplan.  497 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Talabasse. .  498 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  a  la  Victorin. . . .  498 

—  tenderloin   tournedos,  plain  (Fig.  319)  496 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  with  raisins. . . .  498 

—  tenderloin  tournedos  with  string  beans  498 

—  tenderloin  a  1' Ambassade — whole  ....  498 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Bareda — whole 499 

—  tenderloin  a  la  la  Bayonnaise — whole  499 

—  tenderloin  a  Bernardi — whole 499 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Bienvenue — whole....  499 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Bouquetiere — whole. .  734 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Cauchoise — whole. . . .  500 

—  tenderloin   a   la  Chanzy — whole  (Fig. 

320) 500 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Conde — whole 500 

—  tenderloin   a    la    d'Aurelles — breaded 

and  browned   in  the  oven — whole  500 

—  tenderloin  a  la  d'Orleans — whole 501 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Evers — whole 734 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Godard — whole 501 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Lucullus — whole  (Fig. 

455) 734 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Melinet — whole 501 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Milanese — whole 501 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Montebello — whole. ..  501 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Noailles — whole 735 


1142 


PAGE. 
Beef  tenderloin   a   la  printaniere — whole 

(Fig.  321) 504 

—  tenderloin   a   la   Richelieu,  modern — 

whole 502 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Rothschild — whole....  502 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Royal — whole 502 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Solohub — whole 502 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Travers — whole 503 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Violetta — whole 735 

—  tenderloin,  braised  with  roots — whole  503 

—  tenderloin,  Huntress  style — whole...  503 

—  tenderloin,  Indian  style — whole 503 

—  tenderloin,  Neapolitan  style — whole.  502 

—  tenderloin  with  croustades  Macedoine 

—whole 736 

—  tenderloin  with  truffles — whole 504 

—  tenderloin  with  vegetables — whole....  504 

—  tenderloin    with   vegetables,    mayon- 

naise—whole  (Fig.  456) 736 

—  tongue  a  la  Romaine ....  504 

—••-  tongue  a  la  Soligny 505 

—  tongues,  cold  (see  tongues) 797 

—  tongue,  Italian — baked 505 

—  tongue,  macedoine 505 

—  tripe  (see  tripe) 505 

Beetroot  fritters  a  la  Dickens 820 

—  with  butter  and  fine  herbs 820 

—  with  cream 820 

Beets 356 

Biscuit  cases — how  to  prepare  them  (Fig. 

626) 983 

—  cream — small 910 

Biscuits  Frascati,  English  cream  sauce..  876 

—  (see  cakes) 932 

Blackbirds  a  la  Degrange 637 

Black  fish  a  la  Orly 431 

—  alaSanford 431 

—  a  la  Villaret 431 

Blanc  Mange  a  la  Smolenska 910 

—  strawberry  (Fig.  588)  910 

Blanch  rice,  to ,  170 

—  vegetables,  to 170 

Blood  Pudding 569 

Blueflsh  a  la  Barnave 431 

—  deviled 432 

—  Havanese  style 431 

—  in  papers 432 

—  with  mayonnaise  and  tarragon 432 

Boar  (wild  pig)  cutlets,  sauted 637 

—  (wild  pig)  haunch,  Robert  sauce 637 

—  (wild  pig)  tenderloin?,  roasted 637 

—  (young  wild)  quarter,  garnished  with 

cutlets  and  breasts,  marinade  sauce  637 

—  (young   wild)  saddle     and    quarter — 

roasted 638 

Boar's  Head,  decorated 801 

Boats,  banana  (see  cakes) 948 

—  bon  voyage  (see  confectionery) 1038 

—  Printanier  (see  cakes; 949 

Bombs  (see  ices) 984 

Bondons  of  pickerel  a  la  Walton 369 

—  of  woodcock  a  la  Diane 370 


PAGE 

Bone,  poultry  or  game,  to 170 

Bonito  or  tunny  fish  a  la  Godivier 43? 

Borders,  butter  (Fig.  469) 738 

—  Carolina  with  champagne 911 

—  chicken   forcemeat    filled  with   blan- 

quette  a  la  Toulouse  (Fig.  410).. . .  675 

—  fish  forcemeat  a  la  Duchess  with  craw- 

fish tails  and  morils  (Fig.  411). . . .  675 

—  for  dishes  of  noodle,  cooked  paste  or 

metal  (Figs.  1  to  6) 170 

—  of  English  or  gum  paste  (Fig.  6a). . . .  171 

—  jelly..    737 

—  jelly  croutons,  different  shaped  (Figs. 

457  to  465) 736 

—  jelly,  molded  (Fig.  470) 738 

—  rice,  with  bananas 877 

—  risot  of  lobsters  or  spiny  lobsters  (Fig. 

413) 676 

—  risot,  Valenciennes  (Fig.  412) 676 

—  vegetable  (Figs.  466,  467,  468) 737 

Bottoms,    foundations    and    supports  for 

dishes  (Fig.  7  to  9a) 171 

BouchSes  (see  patties) 387 

—  of  sweetbreads,  French  style 388 

—  to  prepare  (Figs.  16,  17,  18) 173 

Boud ins  of  chicken  a  1'Ecarlate 677 

—  of  chicken  a  la  Soubise 677 

—  of  chicken  an  Cardinal 677 

—  of  chicken  with  Montebello  sauce. . .  677 

—  of  game  a  la  Berchoux — 678 

—  of  game  or  chicken  blood  a  la  Victorin  678 

—  of  kingfish  a  la  Poniatowski 678 

—  of  salmon  with  shrimps 678 

Bouillabaisse  Marengo 432 

—  Parisian 433 

Brains,  calf's,  a  1'Aurora 507 

—  calf's,  a  la  Chassaigne 507 

—  calf's,  a  la  poulette  with  mushrooms.  507 

—  calf's,  in  matelote 507 

—  calf's,  peasant  style 507 

—  calf's,  with  black  or  hazel-nut  butter.  508 

—  calf's,  with  tomatoed  Bearnaise  sauce.  508 

—  calf's,  with  Venetian  or  green  Hol- 

landaise  sauce 508 

—  lamb's,  with  mayonnaise 738 

Braize,  to,  poeler,  smother  or  sauter  meats.  173 

Brandy  cherries 1050 

—  figs 1050 

—  greengages 1050 

—  peaches 1050 

Bread,  Boston  brown 976 

—  corn 976 

—  crescents 975 

—  crescents  with  butter — fine 972 

—  crowns 972 

—  Graham 976 

—  jockos — French  loaves 972 

—  loaves  in  boxes  and  pans  of  two,  seven 

and  twelve  pounds  each 973 

—  muffins 975 

—  paste  for  finger  and  small  rolls 973 

—  rolls,  finger ...  974 


INDEX. 


1143 


Bread,  rolls,  flutes  or  French  rolls 

—  rol  Is,  split 

—  rolls,  sweet 

—  to,  with  bread-crumbs,  English  flour, 

Milanese  crackers  and  deviled  . . . 

—  rye 

—  with  butter,  Varsovian 

Bread  making 

• —  to  make 

—  utensils  for  bread-making  (Fig.  610). . 

—  the  dough 

—  the  ferment 

—  the  leaven 

—  the  yeast 

—  the  yeast — stock 

Bread  stuffing1,  to  prepare,  American  and 

English  style 

Breakfast  Cakes 

—  biscuits 

—  biscuits,  cinnamon 

—  brioche,  flutes  of 

—  brioches 

—  buns,  English 

—  buns,  hot-cross 

—  buckwheat  with  baking  powder  (Figs. 

601,  602) 

—  buckwheat  with  yeast 

—  flannel 

—  Indian. . 


rice  . . 
wheat. 


—  couques 

—  echaudes 

—  grissinis  with  butter 

—  grissinis  with  sugar 

—  hominy,  boiled 

—  oatmeal ,  boiled 

—  Polish  blinis 

—  toasts,  buttered 

—  toasts,  dipped  in  water,  cream  or  milk. 

—  toasts,  dry 

—  waffles 

—  waffles  with  vanilla — light 

—  wheaten  grits,  boiled 

Breasts  of  pork  salted  and  smoked — Eng- 
lish bacon 

Bressoles  of  chicken 

—  of  fat  livers 

—  of  game 

Brine 

—  for  salting  hams 

—  for  winter  hams 

Brioche  (see  cakes,  large) 

—  paste 

Brioches,  St.  Mark 

Brissotins  of  chicken,  supreme 

—  of  game,  Lyonnese  (Fig.  215) 

—  of  lobster,  Indian  style 

Broccoli,  or  sea-kale,  with  white,  butter 

or  cream  sauce 

Brochettes  of  lobsters 

—  of  oysters 


PAGE. 
974 
974 
975 

174 
976 
971 
969 
970 
969 
971 
971 
971 
970 
970 

187 
944 
944 
944 
944 
944 
944 
945 

945 
945 
945 
945 
946 
946 
946 
947 
946 
946 
947 
946 
947 
947 
947 
947 
947 
948 
947 

174 
370 
370 
370 
174 
175 
175 
938 
202 
877 
370 
370 
370 

823 
679 
679 


PAGE. 

Brochettes  of  sweetbreads  (Fig.  414). ....  679 

Brussels  sprouts  a  la  Baroness 820 

—  sauted 820 

Bucket  of  waffles  with  cream i)08 

It ii Halo  flsh  a  la  Bavaroise 433 

—  cream  sauce 0  433 

Bustard  in  Daube — wild  goose 612 

Butter  flsh,  marinated  and  fried 433 

Butter,  fresh,  molded,  pats,  shells  or  in 

small  stone  pots  (Fig.  199) 356 

—  almond 321 

—  anchovy , 321 

—  black— hot 320 

—  Cambridge , 321 

—  cayenne,    Chili,    paprika   and    sweet 

Spanish  pepper 321 

—  clarified  and  purified 175 

—  crab 321 

—  crawfish 321 

—  fine  herbs — cooked 321 

—  fine  herbs — raw 321 

—  for  buttering  molds 175 

—  garlic 321 

—  green  gooseberries 321 

—  hazel-nut—hot 320 

—  horseradish 322 

—  kneaded 322 

—  lobster  and  spiny  lobster  coral 322 

—  maitre-d'hotel o£2 

—  melted— hot 320 

—  Montpellier 322 

—  ravigote., 322 

—  saffron 322 

—  shallot 322 

—  shrimp 322 

—  vermicelli 356 

Cabbage  in  ballotines — stuffed 821 

—  peasant  style 821 

—  red,  a  la  Montargis 821 

—  red  and  white,  English  style,  and  mar- 

inated cauliflower 356 

Cakes,  Breakfast  (see  breakfast  cakes)..  944 

Cakes,  Large  (entremets  cakes), 931 

—  Almond 931 

—  Almond  biscuit 932 

—  Angel 931 

—  Baba,  syruped  or  iced 932 

—  Biscuit  a  la  Hernani 932 

—  Biscuit,  mousseline 932 

—  Biscuit,  Savoy 932 

—  Boar's  head,  imitation 941 

—  Book,  imitation 941 

—  Breton 933 

—  Brioche  with  head — large  and  crown.  933 

—  Chamounix 933 

—  Compiegne 934 

—  Favart 943 

—  Fleury  (Fig.  595) 934 

—  Fruit  (Figs.  596,  597) 935 

—  Genoese 935 

—  Gugelhopfen 936 

—  Ham,  imitation 941 


1144 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE.     «f« 

Cakes,  Large— 

—  Hazel-nut 936 

—  Jamaica 936 

—  Jelly,  meringued 936 

—  Lady 937 

—  Mandarin  (Fig.  598) 937 

—  Marly  (Fig.   599) 938 

—  Milfoil,  Pompadour 938 

—  Milfoil  with  preserves 938 

—  Mocha 939 

—  Neapolitan 939 

—  Nougatine 939 

—  Pineapple 940 

—  Plum 940 

—  Pound 940 

—  Punch 940 

—  Punch  biscuit 941 

—  Queen 941 

—  Roederer 941 

—  Sand 942 

—  Savarin,  a  la  Valence 942 

—  Sponge 942 

—  St.  Honore, 942 

—  St.  Houore  Sultana 942 

—  Strawberry  short 943 

—  Vacherin,  with  cream  (Fig.  600) 943 

—  Valentin,  with  rum , 943 

Cakes,  Small,  ten  to  a  pound 948 

—  Apple 948 

—  Apricots  with  cream  of  almonds 948 

—  Babas  with  rum. .    948 

—  Biscuits  in  cases,  with  cream 948 

—  Banana  boats 948 

—  Boats,  Printanier 949 

—  Cannelons  a  la  Celestine 949 

—  Casinos 949 

—  Conde 950 

—  Cream,  iced  with  chocolate,  vanilla  or 

coffee 949 

—  Cream,  with  burnt  almonds  and  glazed 

(Figs.  603,  604,  605) 949 

—  Cream,  with  whipped  or  St.   Honore 

cream 950 

—  Crescents  with  preserves 950 

—  Darioles,    Duchess 950 

—  Darioles  with  orange-flower  water. . .  950 

—  Darioles  with  vanilla 950 

—  D'Artois  with    apricot   marmalade   or 

almond   cream 951 

—  Eclairs,   coffee  and  chocolate    cream 

(Fig.  606) 951 

—  Eclairs,  vanilla  Chantilly 951 

—  Francillon 951 

—  Gaieties,  puffed  and  half  puffed 952 

—  Genoese — light 952 

—  Geuoeses  with  cream  meringued 952 

—  Gooseberry,  and  tarts 952 

—  Goronflots 952 

«—  Jealousies 953 

~-  Roiled  jelly  biscuit  953 

—  Lafayette  with  rum 953 

—  Madeleines 953 


Cakes,  Small— 

—  Madeleines,  Commercy , . , . 

—  Madeleines,  Genoese 

—  Madeleines  with   rum 

—  Marillan  (Fig.  607) 

—  Mars , 

—  Nougat  of  apricots 

—  Palms 

—  Parisian 

—  Rice 

—  Rouen  mirlitons 

—  Savarins — small 

—  Stuffed  with  apricot 

—  Tartlets,  almondine 

—  Tartlets,  apple 

—  Tartlets,  apple  marmalade 

—  Tartlets,  apple,  sour 

—  Tartlets,  Bordelaise 

—  Tartlets,  cherry 

—  Tartlets.  Columbia 

—  Tartlets,  Demonet 

—  Tartlets,  Fancbonnette,  meringued. . 

—  Tartlets,  Herisson 

—  Tartlets,  peach,  with  rice 

—  Tartlets,  Pelerine 

—  Tartlets,  Valencia 

—  Tartlets,  variegated  fruit 

—  Wells  of  Love 

Cakes,  Teal — forty  to  the  pound 

—  Basel  Leckerlets 

—  Butter  patiences     

—  Cats'  tongues  with  butter 

—  Cats'  tongues  with  cream.. . . .    

—  Cocoanut  crowns  with  cherries 

—  Croquets 

—  Crumbled  paste 

—  Espagnolettes 

—  Japanese  

—  Jumbles 

—  Lozenges 

—  Marquis'  hats 

—  Milanese , 

—  Nantes 

—  Palais  de  dames  with  vanilla 

—  Pistachio  nougat . . . 

—  Ribbons  with  almond  milk 

—  Scotch  bread 

—  Shavings 

—  Sugar 

—  Trouvere 

—  Tuilles 

—  Tuilles  Parisian 

—  Wafers,  cigarette  with  vanilla,  thin. 

—  Wafers,  chocolate 

—  Wafers  with  almonds  (Fig.  608) 

• —  Wafers  with  brandy 

—  Wafers  with  hazel-nuts 

Cakes,  Fancy — sixty  to  the  pound 

—  Africans 

—  Amarettes ., . 

—  Barcelonnettes , 

—  Birds  nests. . 


PAGE. 

953 
953 
953 
953 
954 
954 
954 
954 
954 
954 
954 
955 
955 
955 
955 
955 
955 
955 
955 
956 
956 
956 
956 
956 
956 
956 
957 
957 
957 
957 
957 
957 
957 
958 
958 
958 
958 
958 
958 
959 
959 
959 
959 
959 
959 
959 
960 
960 
960 
960 
960 
960 
960 
961 
961 
961 
961 
961 
961 
961 
962 


INDEX. 


1145 


PAGE.     4* 

Cakes,  Fancy— 

• —  Biscuits,  bazel-nut 962 

—  Biscuits  with  almonds — iced 962 

—  Chocolate  chestnuts 962 

—  Cocoanut  kisses 962 

—  Exquisites  with  chestnuts 962 

—  Fancy — soft 963 

—  Filbert  with  ruin — small 963 

—  Javanese 963 

—  Lady  bouchees  with   strawberries   or 

raspberries 963 

-  Lady  fingers  (Fig.  609; 963 

—  Lemon  crowns 964 

—  Macaroons 964 

—  Macaroons,  Angelica 964 

—  Macaroons,  apple  jelly 965 

—  Macaroons,  bitter 964 

—  Macaroons,  chocolate  with  nonpareil .  964 

—  Macaroons,  clover 965 

—  Macaroons,  cream  in  cases 964 

—  Macaroons,  currant  jelly 965 

—  Macaroons,  Dutch 964 

—  Macaroons,  fancy 965 

—  Macaroons,  hazel-nut 965 

—  Macaroons,  lyre 965 

—  Macaroons,  network 965 

—  Macaroons,  orange 965 

—  Macaroons,  souffle 965 

—  Macaroons,  strawberry 965 

—  Macaroons,  twin 965 

—  Madrilians 966 

—  Magicians 966 

—  Marchpanes,  Demidoff 966 

—  Marchpanes,  orange          966 

—  Marchpanes — soft 966 

—  Meringues,  Italian  coffee — small 966 

—  Pistachio  lozenges 966 

—  Pistachio  tourons 967 

—  Quillets— small 967 

—  Rocks,  pignon,  with  white  and   pink 

almonds 967 

—  Rocks  with  orangeade 967 

—  Sticks,  cherry 967 

—  Sticks,  vanilla .  , 967 

—  Tartlets,  apricot 968 

—  Tartlets,  strawberry 968 

—  Venetians 968 

Calfs  brains  (see  brains) 507 

Calf  S  crow,  a  la  Normande 510 

CalPs  ears,  stuffed,  tomato  sauce 512 

Calf  S  feet,  American  style 513 

—  jelly  and  chicken 285 

—  jelly  and  meat 285 

Calfs  head  a  la  Poulette 515 

—  a  la  Renaissance 515 

—  in  tortue 515 

—  in  tortue — dressed  (Fig.  328) 515 

—  plain  or  vinaigrette 516 

Calfs  light,  a  la  Mariniere 518 

Calf 8  liver,  a  la  Clerniont 518 

—  and  bacon 518 

--  Italian  style 518 


PAGE. 

Calf's  liver  with  fine  herbs— fried 519 

Calfs  tails  with  cabbage 528 

Calfs  tongues,  a  la  Flamande 528 

—  a  la  Macedoine 799 

—  a  la  Perigueux  (Fig.  333) 528 

—  to  salt 528 

Canape's,  Bartholomew 370 

—  Brownson 371 

—  for  anchovy  (Fig.  201) 357 

—  for  anchovy  butter 358 

—  for  Careme 358 

—  for  caviare  (Fig.  203) 357 

—  for  crawfish. ' 358 

—  for  hard  boiled  eggs 358 

—  for  ham 358 

—  for  herring,  deviled 358 

—  for  herring,  Russian  (Fig.  204) 357 

—  for  lobster 358 

—  for  red  beef  tongue 358 

—  for  sardines  (Fig.  202) 357 

—  for  shrimps 358 

—  for  smoked  salmon  (Fig.  205) 357 

—  for  smoked  sturgeon  (Fig.  205) 357 

—  for  Windsor  (Fig.  200) 357 

—  game  (Fig.  216) 371 

—  Lorenzo 371 

—  Martha 371 

—  sweetbreads 371 

Candies 1046 

—  burnt  almonds 1046 

—  caramels  (see  caramels) 1046 

—  cordial. 1047 

—  drops 1047 

—  drops,  peppermint  1047 

—  drops,  strawberry 1047 

—  filbert,  preserved. 1047 

—  fondants,  chocolate 1048 

—  fondants,  dipped  in  strawberry  or  rasp- 

berry....'.   1048 

—  fondants,  vanilla 1048 

—  for  mottoes 1048 

—  Northern  jelly 1048 

—  nougat 1049 

—  Tortillons 1049 

—  Trocaderos  with  raspberry 1049 

—  Trocaderos  with  rum 1049 

—  violets,  candied 1049 

Candying,  cold 1046 

—  hot 1046 

Canned  cherries 1050 

—  pears 1050 

—  pineapple 1051 

Cannelons,  beef  palate  or  lamb's  sweet- 
breads and  celery 372 

—  with  puree  of  chicken  or  game  (Fig. 

217) 372 

Capon  a  1'Amphitryon 583 

—  a  la  Bressoise 583 

—  a  la  Financiere 583 

—  a,  la  Pondichery 583 

—  a  la  Regence 584 

—  legs  with  truffles   584 


1146 


THE; 


PAGE. 

Capon,  roasted 584 

Caramels,  chocolate  cream 1046 

—  cream  with  coffee 1047 

—  cream  with  tea 1047 

—  cream  with  vanilla 1047 

—  liquid,  to  prepare 175 

Cardoons  with  half  glaze 822 

Carp 434 

—  a  la  Chambord 434 

—  breaded  and  broiled,  maitre-d'hotel. .  434 

—  common  (Fig.  286) 434 

—  fried,  garnished  with  parsley 434 

—  German  (Fig.  287) 434 

—  German,  with  sauer-kraut 435 

—  salmon 434 

—  stuffed  a  la  Champenoise — salmon. ...  435 
Carrots  and  peas,  garnishing  (see  sirloin  of 

beef) 483 

—  Colbert 822 

—  glazed,  or  with  fine  herbs 822 

—  Viennese  style 822 

—  with  cream 822 

Carve,  art  of  carving  on  the  table  (Figs.  19, 

22) 176 

—  beef,  roast;  to  carve  the  ribs  (Fig.  29).  177 

—  beef,  tenderloin   (Fig.  30), 178 

—  fish  (Figs.  23,  24) 176 

—  goose  or  duck  (Fig.  34) 179 

—  hot  ham  (Fig.  31) 178 

—  lamb  or  venison,  saddle — roasted 179 

—  mutton,  leg  (Fig.  32) 178 

—  mutton,  saddle 179 

—  mutton,  saddle — braised  (Fig.  33) 179 

—  partridges  (Fig.  25  to  28) 177 

—  pheasant,  grouse  or  prairie  chicken. .  177 

—  pigeons 179 

—  pullet  or  capon  (Figs.  35,  36,  37) 179 

—  turkey— roasted  (Fig.  38) 180 

—  veal,  loin  and  kernel 179 

Cases  a  la  Montglas — small  679 

—  larks  or  snowbirds 680 

—  lobster  a  la  Ravigote  (Fig.  471) 738 

—  oysters  a  la  Hilton 680 

—  oysters  a  la  Lorenzo  (Fig.  416) 680 

—  quails  a  la  Dejazet 681 

—  snipe  a  la  Careme — English 679 

—  snipe  with  jelly— small  (Fig.  472) 739 

—  squabs  a  la  Folsom  and  a  la  Umberto  681 

—  sweetbreads    a    la     Grammont   (Fig. 

417) 681 

—  thrushes 682 

—  thrushes  a  la  Diana 682 

—  thrushes  with  jelly— small  (Fig.  473).  739 

—  with  fat  livers— small  (Fig.  415) 680 

Casino  (see  cakes) 949 

Casseroles,  potato 683 

—  of  lamb  sweetbreads  a  la  de  Luynes. .  682 

—  of  rice  with  chicken,  Palestine 683 

Cassolettes,  Lusigny  (Fig.  218) 372 

—  Montholon 372 

Cast  in  Starch  (see   confectionery)  (Fig. 

759) 1046     .j.        — 


PAGE. 
Cauliflowers  a  la  Bechamel — stuffed  and 

baked 822 

—  a  la  Villeroi 822 

—  fried 823 

—  marinated 356 

—  sauted,  with  fine  herbs 823 

—  with  cheese — baked 823 

—  with  fried  bread  crumbs 823 

—  Broccoli  or  sea-kale  with  white,  butter 

or  cream  sauce 823 

Caviare 358 

Celeriac  a  la  Villeroi , 824 

—  Mirabeau 823 

Celery,  fried  (see  sirloin  of  beef) 483 

—  hearts,  crystallized 1051 

—  stalks,    fennel,    hearts,    knobs    with 

vinaigrette  mayonnaise 358 

—  stalks  with  half-glaze,  Espagnole  and 

marrow 823 

—  stalks  with  veloute  sauce 823 

—  with  bechamel  and  croutons 823 

Celestines  of  pullet,  Talleyrand 740 

—  with  foies-gras   and   puree  of   chest- 

nuts    373 

Center  pieces  (see  confectionery) 1029 

—  explanation   of  various  figures  (Figs. 

729  to  731)... 1029 

—  of  brown  nougat 1033 

—  of  cooked  sugar  (Figs.  732,  733,  734).  1031 

—  pyramids 1029 

Centimeters  and  inches 237 

CSpes  a  la  Bordelaise 527 

—  baked  with  cream 824 

—  minced  in  croustades 824 

—  Provencal  style 824 

—  stuffed 824 

Champagne,    how   to    freeze   (Figs.   768, 

769) 1065 

Chariots  (see  confectionery) 1038 

Charlotte  a  la  Destrey 877 

—  apple  (Figs.  573,  574) 877 

—  Bengalian 911 

—  Calville  apples. 911 

—  Metternich 912 

—  Russe 912 

—  with  strawberries  or  raspberries  ....  912 

Chateau  framboise 911 

Chaudfroid  of  chicken  a  la  Clara  Morris. .  740 

—  of  chicken  fricassee 746 

—  of  doe  bird,  plovers,  bustards  or  wood- 

cock, with  f umet 740 

—  of  guinea  fowl — young  (Fig.  474) 741 

—  of  larks 741 

—  of  partridges  a  la  Beatrice 741 

—  of  pheasants— fillets  (Fig.  475) 742 

—  of  prairie  hen — grouse 742 

—  of  pullet— plain 743 

—  of  quails  a  la  Baudy  (Fig.  476) 743 

—  of  redhead  duck— fillets 744 

—  of  snipe  in  pyramid  (Fig.  477) 744 

—  of  turkey  a  la  Perigord , 744 

mison . .  744 


IXDE1X. 


1147 


PAGE. 

Cheese 1058 

—  cream 1058 

—  crusts 359 

—  grated  Parmesan  and  Swis>s 194 

Cherries,  brandied 1050 

—  canned 1050 

—  stewed 1056 

Chestnuts,  stewed 1056 

—  with  cream , 912 

—  with  gravy 824 

Chicken 584 

—  breasts  a  la  Chevreuse 584 

—  a  la  Delisle— broiled  (Fig.  353) 584 

—  a  la  Irving — broiled  and  stuffed 585 

—  broiled,  with  bacon,  maitre-d'hotel. . .  585 

—  broiled,  with  tarragon  gravy  or  sauce.  585 

—  cocotte  (Fie.  354) 585 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 687 

—  ecarlate  a  la  Derenne  (Fig.  478) 745 

—  epigrammes  a  la  Volnay 585 

—  escalops,  financiere. .  .    691 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Beranger 586 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Bodisko 586 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Certosa 586 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Chiselhurst  (Figs. 

355,  356) 586 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Cussy  (Fig.  357)  587 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  1'ficarlate 587 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a   I'Ecuyere — cheva- 

let  (Fig.  358) 587 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Gallier 746 

—  fillets  or   breasts  a   la  Harrison   (Fig. 

360) 588 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  1'Imperatrice 587 

—  fillets  or   breasts  a   la   Lorenzo  (Fig. 

361) 588 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Lucullus  (Fig. 

(362) 589 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Marceau  (Fig.  363)  589 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Marechale 589 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Mirabeau 589 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a   la   Mirebel   (Fig. 

479) 745 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Patti  (Fig.  364).  590 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Primatice 590 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la   Princiere  (Fig. 

365) 590 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Renaissance. . . .  746 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Sadi  Carnot 591 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Toulouse 591 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Valengay  (Fig. 

366) 591 

—  fillets  or  breasts  a  la  Valerri  (Figs.  367, 

368) 591 

—  fillets   or   breasts  a   la  Villeroi  (Fig. 

369) 592 

—  fillets  or  breasts  au  supreme  (Fig.  370)  592 

—  fillets  or  breasts,  epicurean  (Fig.  359).  588 

—  fillets  or  breasts,  Mexican  style,  in  pa- 

pers   592 

« -  fillets  or  breasts  with  cucumbers  (Fig. 

371)..  593 


PAGE. 

Chicken  fillets  or  wings  a  la  Genin 588 

—  fricassee 593 

—  fricassee  a  la  Bouchard 593 

—  fricassee  a  la  Chevaliere 593 

—  fricassee  a  la  Favorite 594 

—  fricassee  a  la  Lucius 594 

—  fricassee  a  la  Waleski 594 

—  fricassee  chaudfroid 746 

—  fricassee  with  crustacean  sauce 595 

—  fricassee  with  curry 595 

—  fried,  marinade  sauce 595 

—  fried,  Medicis 595 

—  grenades  a  la  Ritti 596 

—  hams  with  Zampino 765 

—  Jambalaia  of 596 

—  legs  a  la  Saulniere — bigarrures 596 

—  legs,  American  style — deviled 596 

—  legs,  as  cutlets  with  olives 596 

—  legs  as  ducklings 768 

—  legs  in  papers  597 

—  legs,  puree  of  Jerusalem  artichokes..  597 

—  pie,  Australian  style 713 

—  pie  a  la  Manhattan   712 

—  pie,  Rigolo  712 

—  pie,  to  be  cut  up 778 

—  pilau 597 

—  roasted,  a  la  Championne 597 

—  roasted,  a  1'Hoteliere 597 

—  roasted  in  the  saucepan 598 

—  roasted,  with  jelly,  cut  up   and   gar- 

nished with  tongue 747 

—  roasted,  with  oyster  sauce 598 

—  roasted,  with   tomato  Conde   sauce — 

stuffed 598 

—  sauted,  a  la  Bourguignonne 598 

—  sauted,  a  la  d'Antin 598 

—  sauted,  a  la  Diva 599 

—  sauted,  a  la  Dodds 599 

—  sauted,  a  la  Dumas 599 

—  sauted,  a  la  Finnoise. . .      599 

—  sauted,  a  la  Florentine 600 

—  sauted,  a  la  Madeleine 600 

—  sauted,  a  la  Marcel 600 

—  sauted,  a  la  Marengo 600 

—  sauted,  a  la  Maryland 600 

—  sauted,  a  la  Montesquieu  (Fig.  372; . .  601 

—  sauted,  a  la  Nantaise 601 

—  sauted,  a  la  Parmentier 601 

—  sauted,  a  la  Portugaise 602 

—  sauted,  a  la  San  ford 602 

—  sauted,  a  la  Sherman 747 

—  sauted,  a  la  Stanley 602 

—  sauted,  a  la  Tunisian 603 

—  sauted.  Hunter's  style 603 

—  sauted,  Parisian  style 603 

—  sauted,  Point  du  jour  603 

—  sauted,  Vienna  style 604 

—  sauted,  with  fine  herbs,  tomato   gar- 

nishing   604 

—  with   half   glaze  (Figs.   373,  374  and 

375) 604 

—  spring,  as  an  entree,  roasted — small. .  604 


1148 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Chicken,  whole,  a  1'Aquitaine — braised...  605 

—  whole,  a  la  Leona — boiled 605 

—  whole,  a  la  Stuyvesant — poele 605 

—  whole,  English  style — boiled 605 

—  whole,  with  noodles,    macaroni,  rav- 

ioles  or  mirraidons — braised 605 

—  whole,  with  rice — braised 606 

—  whole,  with  tarragon — braised 606 

—  whole,  with  new  vegetables,  small — 

braised 606 

Chicory  timbales 825 

—  with  cream 825 

Chocolate  (Figs.  760,  761) 1059 

—  iced 1027 

Chop,  to,  parsley,  truffles,  onions,  shallots 

mushrooms,  tongue  and  coral. . . .  180 

Chops  (see  mutton) 532 

Chow-Chow 360 

Cisco,  Castillane  sauce 435 

Clams,  little  neck,  Quahaug  (Fig.  266) 401 

—  on  the  half  shell 359 

—  pancakes  and  fritters 401 

—  Philadelphia  style 401 

—  poulette 401 

—  stuffed 401 

—  long  or  soft 402 

—  soft,  fried,  garnished  with  fried  pars- 

ley   402 

—  soft,  Newburg    ....  402 

—  soft,  on  skewers  or  hatelets (Fig.  267).  402 
Claret  cup 1066 

—  a  la  Willards 1066 

Coat  jelly  molds,  and  to  mold  jellies  (Fig. 

39) 181 

Cochineal  red,  coloring 182 

Cocks'-combs,  stuffed,  Duxelle 373 

Cocks'  kidneys,  Villeroi    373 

Cocktails,  Absinthe 1066 

-  brandy 1065 

-  Calisaya 1066 

—  gin,  Holland  and  Tom 1065 

—  Jersey,  iced 1066 

—  Manhattan 1066 

—  Martine 1066 

—  Peruvian 1066 

-  Riding  Club 1066 

—  Vermuth 1065 

CoCOanut,  to  prepare 181 

Codfish  (Fig.  288) 435 

—  fresh,  a  la  Duxelle — baked. . . . , 435 

—  fresh,  broiled  with  bacon  cr  ham. . . .  436 

—  fresh,  Norwegian  style 436 

—  fresh,  slices   a   la    Hollandaise  (Fig. 

289,  290) 436 

—  head,  egg  sauce 436 

—  tongues  with  black  butter  or  chopped 

sauce 436 

—  salt,  Lyonnese  style 437 

—  salt,  Spanish  style 436 

—  salt,  a  la  Villageoise — baked 437 

—  salt,  brandade  of 437 

—  salt,  cakes  and  balls 437 


PAGE. 

Codfish,  salt,  Faraday  crowns 437 

—  salt,  picked-up,  with  cream 438 

—  salt,  vol-au-vent 720 

Coffee,  how  to  make  (Figs.  762,  763) 1059 

-  iced 1027 

—  Turkish  (Figs.  764,  765.  766) 1059 

Cold  dishes 723 

Colombines  of  chicken  livers  with  ham. .  373 

—  of  foies-gras 373 

Colorings,  vegetable;  carmine  and  cochi- 
neal red  181 

Compiegne  with  sabayon 878 

Compotes  (see  stewed  fruits) 1056 

Conde  cakes  (see  cakes) .   950 

Confectionery 1029 

—  (large  pieces) 1036 

—  baskets  filled  with  candied  fruits  (Figs. 

742,  743,  744) 1036 

—  baskets  filled  with  ice  cream  fruits. . .  1036 

—  baskets,  Perrette's  (Fig.  745) 1036 

—  baskets  with  cherries  (Fig.  746) 1037 

—  boat,  bon  voyage,  served  at  a  farewell 

dinner  (Fig.  747) 1038 

—  chariot  filled   with  lady  apples  (Fig. 

748) 1038 

—  chariot  of  doves  (Fig.  749) 1039 

—  chariot  of  swans  (Fig.  750) 1040 

—  cornucopia    (Horn    of    Plenty)     (Fig. 

751) 1040 

—  Dosser  a  la  Denivelle  (Fig.   752) 1041 

—  the  prolific  tree  (Fig.  758) 1045 

—  vases  of  pulled  and  drawn  sugar  (Figs. 

753,  754) 1042 

—  wheelbarrow  filled  with  flowers  on  a 

socle  (Fig.  756) •. 1043 

—  windmill  (Fig.  757) 1043 

Cooked  paste  for  fanciful  borders 202 

Corn,  boiled  on  the  cob 825 

—  croquettes 482 

—  cut  up 825 

-  fritters 482 

—  pancakes 825 

—  succotash 825 

Cornets  of  orange  cream 913 

Cos  lettuce  a  la  Rudini — stuffed 840 

Court  bouillon 182 

—  with  wine  ....   182 

Crabs  (Fig.  268) 402 

—  hard  shell,  baked  on  a  dish 402 

—  hard  shell,  in  court  bouillon 402 

—  hard  shell,  stuffed,  Carolina  style. .  . .  403 

—  hard  shell,  stuffed  and  deviled 403 

—  hard  shell,  stuffed  with  mushrooms. .  403 

—  oyster,  a  la  Newburg 403 

—  oyster,  a  la  Salamander 403 

—  oyster,  fried 403 

—  soft  shell,  broiled,  ravigote  butter. . .  403 

—  soft  shell,  fried 404 

—  soft  shell,  sauted  in  butter 404 

Crawfish  or  crayfish  (Fig.  269) 404 

—  a  la  Bateliere 404 

—  a  la  Bordelaise ...  404 


1149 


PAGE. 

Crawfish  a  la  Mariniere 404 

—  a  la  Vinaigrette 359 

—  au  court  bouillon 404 

—  Maison  d'Or 405 

—  with  butter 405 

—  with  cream 405 

Cream  a  la  Maintenon — fried 878 

—  almond 182 

—  bain-marie — molded 913 

—  cake  paste 202 

—  English,  with  coffee 182 

—  English,  with  vanilla,  lemon  or  orange 

zest 182 

—  Frangipane,  with   chocolate  or   mar- 

row   183 

—  Frangipane,  with  vanilla 183 

—  lobster  (Fig.  480) 747 

—  Malakoff 913 

—  Mocha 183 

—  of  biscuit  with  kirsch 878 

—  of  chestnuts,  with  caramel  sugar 879 

—  of  chicken 683 

—  of  partridge 683 

—  of  pheasant,  Cliantilly 683 

—  of  rice  with  Angelica 913 

—  Pamela,  Bischoff  sauce — fried 879 

—  p&stry  with  vanilla 183 

—  pistachio  or  nut 183 

—  Quillet 183 

—  Spanish 913 

—  St.  Honore 183 

—  tutti-frutti 914 

—  whipped  or  Chantilly 184 

—  with  apples   879 

—  with  cherries 914 

—  with  lemon  peel  in  pots 914 

Cre"pine  of  brains 684 

—  of  chicken  a  la  Turenne — breasts  (Fig. 

418) 684 

—  of  lambs'  trotters,  Perigueux  sauce. . .  683 

—  of  pigeons,  poivrade  sauce,  with  truffle 

•essence 684 

—  of  pullet 684 

—  of  reedbirds 684 

—  of  venison  and  sausages 685 

—  of  young  rabbits 685 

Crescents  of  noodles  with  cherries 879 

—  with  preserves 950 

Cromesquis  of  beef 375 

—  of  beef  palates 374 

—  of  capon 374 

—  of  chicken   374 

—  of  clams,  bechamel 375 

—  of  crabs 374 

—  of  crawfish 374 

—  of  duck 374 

—  of  fillets  of  striped  bass  or  other  fish.  374 

—  of  game,  Stanislas  374 

—  of  lamb 375 

—  of  lobster  a  la  Rumford 374 

• —  of  mussels 375 

—  of  ovsters 375 


PAGK. 

Cromesqnis  of  pullet— fat 374 

—  of  scallops 375 

—  of  shrimps 374 

—  of  sweetbreads,  Babanine 375 

—  of  tongue 375 

Croquettes  (Fig.  219) 375 

—  of  apples 572 

—  of  apples  a  la  Trimalcion 879 

—  of  beef  palates 375 

—  of  capon  a  la  Royal 375 

—  of  chestnuts 880 

—  of  chicken 377 

—  of  chicken,  exquisite 376 

—  of  chicken,  Hungarian 376 

—  of  corn  (sirloin  of  beef) 482 

—  of  crab,  Parmentier 376 

—  of  crawfish,  Victoria 376 

—  of  duckling  a  la  Muser 376 

—  of  fat  liver,  Dauphine 377 

—  of  fish 877 

-  of  frog 377 

—  of  game 377 

—  of    grouse    with    tomatoed     soubise 

sauce 378 

—  of  Guinea  fowl.   378 

—  of  ham 492 

—  of  hare  (see  rabbit  a  la  Bien venue).  . .  661 

—  of  horseradish 497 

—  of  lamb  a  la  de  Rivas 378 

—  of  lobster 376 

—  of  macaroni,  Milanese 716 

—  of  oyster 377 

—  of  partridge  with  game  fumet 378 

—  of  pheasant 379 

—  of  pike  a  la  Romaine 378 

—  of  pullet  in  surprise 378 

—  of  pullet,  Wright  San  ford 377 

—  of  rice  with  orange  raspberry  sauce. .  880 

—  of  rice  with  salpicon 865 

—  of  semolina,  pistachio  sauce 880 

—  of  shad  roe 458 

—  of  shrimp 376 

—  of  sweetbreads 379 

—  of  sweet  potatoes 842 

—  of  turkey 379 

—  of  woodcock  with  truffles  (Fig.  220). .  379 
CroilStades  a  la  Castillane  (Fig.  221) 379 

—  a  la  Morgan 381 

—  a  la  Parmentier 380 

—  a  la  Perigueux 380 

—  a  la  Piedmontese 381 

—  barley  bechamel 832 

—  Carolina  style 380 

—  chicken  livers  with  Madeira 685 

—  Fontage  a  la  Flavignan 382 

—  Gnocquis  a  la  Rivoli 380 

—  lambs'   sweetbreads — small  (Fig.  419)  685 

—  noodles,  Tagliarelli 870 

—  Perretti 380 

—  Polenta 381 

—  reedbirds 686 

—  talliarines ...  381 


1150 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE.     •}• 

Croustades  of  thrushes 686 

—  of  Venice,  meringued 880 

—  with  scrambled  eggs  and  truffles 381 

Croutons,  to    prepare,    for  soups,    roasts, 

game,  vegetables,  eggs,  etc.  (Figs. 

40,  41) 184 

Crown  a  la  Camper 914 

—  a  la  Choiseul 914 

—  Printaniere 914 

Crustaceans  401 

Crusts,   cheese 359 

—  Chester    ,.,  389 

—  clams  a  la  Schenk 381 

—  D'Henin,  Morton,  Chamberlain  or  a  la 

Genoise 381 

—  foies-gras 382 

—  golden 881 

—  to  prepare  hollow,  bread-crumb,  tim- 

bale  paste  or  puff  paste  (Figs.  42, 

43,  44,  45) 184 

—  pineapple,  apricot  sauce 881 

—  with  bananas  a  la  Panama 881 

—  with   cherries  or    strawberries    a   la 

Michelet 881 

—  with  fruits  a  la  Mirabeau  (Fig.  575).  882 
-  with  Madeira 882 

—  with  peaches  or  with  pears 883 

—  with  pears  a  la  Douglas 883 

—  woodcock  (Fig.  222) 382 

Cucumbers,  fried,  breaded,  English   style  825 

—  fried 825 

—  fried,  a  la  Villeroi 825 

—  glazed 826 

—  salad 811 

—  salted,  Russian  style — fresh  359 

—  sliced,  in  fillets 359 

—  stuffed 826 

Cupola  a  la  Madison 883 

—  of  codfish  a  la  Biscayan 686 

Currants,  large,  white,  preserved 1053 

Custard,  cream  of  chicken  or  game   284 

—  in  a  dish 915 

—  or  bain-marie  cream ...  915 

—  or  bain-marie  cream  with  caramel. .. .  915 

—  or  bain-marie  cream  with  virgin  coffee  915 
Cutlets,  beef  a  la  Babanine — tenderloin . . .  687 

—  beef  a  la  Bienville — tenderloin 687 

—  boar  (wild  pig),  sauted 637 

—  chicken  a  la  Adolph  Hardy  (Fig.  420)  687 

—  chicken  a  la  Clarence 687 

—  grouse  or  prairie  hen  a  la  Segard 687 

—  hare  a  la  Favorite 690 

—  kingfish,  Mayonnaise  mousseline. . . .  688 

—  lamb  a  la  Bussy 548 

—  lamb  a  la  Catalane 549 

—  lamb  a  la  Charleroi 549 

—  lamb  a  la  Clemence 549 

—  lamb  a  la  Durand 549 

—  lamb  a  la  Gavardi ...   549 

—  lamb  a  la  Giralda 550 

—  lamb  a  la  Leverrier  550 

—  ]amb  a  la  Maintenon 550 


FACE. 

Cutlets,  lamb  a  la  Maison  d'Or 550 

—  lamb  a  la  minute,  with  mushrooms — 

sauted 550 

—  lamb  a  la  Murillo 550 

—  lamb  a  la  Nubian 551 

—  lauib  a  la  Perigueux 551 

—  lamb  a  la  Pompadour 551 

—  lamb  a  la  Robinson 551 

—  lamb  a  la  Signora 551 

—  lamb  a  la  Talma , .  551 

—  lamb  a  la  Turonne 551 

—  lamb  a  la  Victor  Hugo 552 

—  lamb,  breaded,  sauted  and  broiled 552 

—  lamb,  Imperial 748 

—  iamb,  in  crepinette 552 

—  lamb,  in  papers  (Fig.  347). . , , , 552 

—  lamb,  kernels  in  Bellevue 748 

—  lamb,  plain — yearling  (Fig.  346) 548 

—  lamb,  with  aspic 748 

—  lamb,  with  mayonnaise,  kernels 748 

—  lamb,  with  string  beans 552 

—  lamb,  with  tomatoed  chaudfroid 749 

—  lobster,  a  la  Lowry , 749 

—  lobster,  a  la  Shelly — .  688 

—  lobster,  with  cream  sauce 688 

—  mutton  a  la  Bouchere 533 

—  mutton  a  la  Macedoine 533 

—  mutton  a  la  Marechale 533 

—  mutton  a  la  Nelson  (Fig.  339) 534 

—  mutton  a  la  Savary 534 

—  mutton  and  chops,  plain  (Fig.  336). . .  532 

—  mutton,  breaded,  English  sauce 534 

—  mutton,  breaded,  with  puree  of  truf- 

fles or  with  puree  of  chestnuts. . .  534 

—  mutton,    Russian    style,  with    horse- 

radish    534 

—  mutton,  with  braised  lettuce 534 

—  mutton,  with  chicory 535 

—  mutton,  with  cucumbers 535 

—  mutton,  with  fried  potatoes 535 

—  mutton,  with  marinade 53H 

—  mutton,  with  truffles 535 

—  pheasants  a  la  Reginald 688 

—  pheasants   in    chaudfroid    (Fig.    481, 

482). 749 

—  pork  (see  pork) 569 

—  quails,  Girondin 657 

—  squabs  a  1'Albufera 688 

—  squabs  a  la  Jardiniere 688 

—  squabs  a  la  Lauriston 688 

—  squabs  a  la  Luynes 689 

—  squabs  a  la  Perigueux 688 

—  squabs  a  la  Provenejal  689 

—  squabs  a  la  Signora 689 

—  squabs  in  papers 689 

—  sweetbreads  a  la  Talleyrand 690 

—  sweetbreads,  modern  style 689 

—  veal  a  1' Anacreon 750 

—  veal  a  la  Chipolata 511 

—  veal  a  la  Georgina  and  plain 511 

—  veal  a  la  Seymour .. .  .  511 

—  veal  a  la  Zingara  or  Singara.    . .  .  . .  511 


INDEX. 


1151 


PAGE. 

Cutlets,  veal,  half  glaze 511 

—  veal,  maitre  d'hotel  (Fig.  325) 512 

—  veal,  Milanese 512 

—  veal,  Pogarski 690 

—  veal,  studded  with  truffles  (Fig.  326).  512 

—  veal,  with  fine  herbs 512 

—  veal,  with  chicory — larded  (Fig.  324).  511 

—  venison,  a  la  Buridan 666 

—  venison,  a  la  Cauchoise 666 

—  venison,  a  la  Financiere 666 

—  venison,  deviled 666 

—  venison,  tomato  Parisian  sauce ,  666 

—  venison,  with  chestnut  puree 666 

—  woodcock,  Poinatowski  (Fig.  488). . . .  750 

—  woodcock,  Sarah  Bernhardt.. 751 

—  young  hare,  a  la  Favorite 690 

—  young  rabbit,  a  la  Previllot 690 

Dampf noodles  with  creaui 883 

Darioles,  Duchess 950 

—  with  orange  flower  water 950 

—  with  vanilla 950 

D'Artois  cake,  with  apricot  marmalade  or 

almond  cream 951 

Deer,  loin  of,  cherry  sauce 665 

Dish  bottoms,  foundations  and  supports  . .  171 

Doebirds,  chaudfroid,  with  f umet 740 

—  roasted  and  broiled 638 

Dome  of   lobster,   garnished    with    small 

cases 751 

Dressing  paste 202 

Drinks,  dessert 1066 

—  iced  (see  ices) 1027 

Drops  (see  candies) .  1047 

—  peppermint 1047 

—  strawberry 1047 

Duck,  a  la  Britannia — stuffed 606 

—  a  la  Matignon 607 

—  a  la  Siebrecht 607 

—  American  style — stuffed 607 

—  mongrel — roasted  and  stuffed 609 

—  roasted 607 

—  with  cepes 607 

—  with  cherries 607 

—  with  olives — braised 608 

—  with  sauerkraut 608 

—  with  turnips 608 

—  giblets,  housekeepers'  style 608 

—  paupiettes  with  risot 608 

—  blackhead — roasted  or  broiled 638 

—  brant,     with     cauliflower     Villeroi — 

roasted 638 

—  canvas- back,  broiled 638 

—  canvas-back,  roasted,  garnished  with 

hominy  or  samp  (Fig.  389) 638 

—  canvas  back,  salmis 640 

—  canvas  back,  breasts,  bigarade  sauce..  640 

—  canvas-back,     breasts,    with     orange 

juice,  port  wine  and  currant  sauce.  640 

—  mallard,  roasted  and  broiled 640 

—  mallard,  salmis  of,  with  Madeira  ....  641 

—  mallard,     with     celery     half-glaze — 

roasted 640 


PAGE. 

Duck,  redhead,  a  la  Bareda  (Fig.  396). ...  641 

—  redhead,  roasted  and  broiled 641 

—  redhead,  with  fried  celery 641 

—  Ruddy,  a  la  Hamilton 642 

—  Ruddy,  roasted 642 

—  teal,  roasted  (Fig.  397) 642 

—  teal,  breasts,  a  la  Ponchartrain 642 

—  teal,  broiled 642 

—  teal,  salmis  of,  a  la  Harrison 643 

Duckling  al'Andalouse 609 

—  a  la  Bordelaise — sauted ...  609 

—  a  la  Bourguignonne — fried 609 

—  a  la  Grainville — larded 609 

—  a  la  Lyonnaise 610 

—  a  la  Rouennaise 610 

—  galantine  of,  pear-shaped 754 

—  minced 649 

—  peasant  style 611 

—  salmis  of 611 

—  with  bigarade  sauce 611 

—  with  green  mayonnaise  and  fine  herbs 

— broiled  and  roasted 611 

—  with  Jerusalem  artichokes 611 

—  with  oranges 612 

—  with  Spanish  olives 752 

—  fillets  a  la  Macedoine  or  green  peas. . .  610 

—  fillets  a  la  Perigueux  (Fig.  376) 610 

Eclairs,  coffee  and  chocolate  cream 951 

—  vanilla  Chantilly 951 

Edible  snails  (Fig.  270) 405 

—  Bordelaise 406 

—  Bourguignonne 406 

—  Provengal 406 

—  Provengal  butter 406 

—  Saintonge 406 

—  to  prepare 405 

Eels  a  la  Marechale  (Fig.  291) 438 

—  broiled  or  fried,  tartar  sauce 438 

—  fried  with  butter  and  fine  herbs 438 

—  to  skin 186 

Egging  and  moistening 185 

Egg  8  (Plate) 847 

—  au  miroir  a  la  Jockey  Club 847 

—  au  miroir  a  la  Lully  (Fig.  559) 847 

—  au  miroir  a  la  Meyerbeer 848 

—  au  miroir  a  la  Provengal 848 

—  au  miroir  a  la  Tivolier 848 

—  boiled  (Fig.  560) 848 

—  bustard,  plover  and  seagull 359 

—  cold  (see  garnishings) 760 

—  fried,  a  la  Eugene  Andre  (Fig.  562). .  850 

—  fried,  a  la  Montebello 850 

—  fried  a  la  Sole — turned  over 851 

—  fried,  Neapolitan  style — turned  over.  851 

—  fried,  with  brown  butter 851 

—  fried,  with  chopped  parsley 851 

—  fried,  with  ham  and  bacon 851 

—  hard-boiled  and  Aurora 849 

—  hard-boiled,  a  la  Bennett 849 

—  hard-boiled,  a  la  Benoist 849 

—  hard-boiled,  a  la  Carolli  with  noodles  849 

—  hard-boiled,  a  la  Gibson 849 


1152 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Eggs,  hard-boiled,  a  la  Wasbburn 849 

—  hard-boiled,  croquettes  (Fig.  561) 850 

—  hard-boiled,  New  York  style . .  850 

—  hard-boiled,  Russian  style 850 

—  molded  a  la  Bedford — in  cocottes  (Fig. 

563) 851 

—  molded  a  la  Colbert— in  cases  (Fig. 

564) 851 

—  molded  a  1'echiquier — in  cases 852 

—  molded  a  la  Parisian,  also  called  Tal- 

leyrand, Polignac,  Polish,  Soyer..  852 

—  molded  with  foies-gras — incases 852 

—  omelets  (see  omelets) 852 

—  on  a  dish  (Figs.  566,  567) 856 

—  on  a  dish,  Bercy 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Bienvenue 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Conde 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Creole  style 857 

—  on  a  dish,  English  style 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Fermiere 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Monaco 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Omer  Pacha 857 

—  on  a  dish,  Plumerey 858 

—  on  a  dish,  Rossini 858 

• —  on  a  dish,  Venetian  style 858 

—  on  a  dish,  with  bacon 858 

—  on  a  dish,  with  cepes 858 

—  on  a  dish,  with  chopped  ham 858 

—  on  a  dish,  with  tomatoes 858 

—  poached,  a  la  Boeldieu  (Fig.  568) 858 

—  poached,  a  la  Benedick 858 

—  poached,  a  la  Bourguignonne — baked  859 

—  poached,  a  la  matelote 859 

—  poached,  a  la  Mirabeau 859 

—  poached,  a  la  Villeroi 859 

—  poached,  a  la  Wright  San  ford 859 

—  poached,  with  gravy 859 

—  poached,  with  puree  of  chicken  supreme  860 

—  poached,  with  spinach 860 

—  scrambled,  a  la  Columbus  (Fig.  569).  860 

—  scrambled,  a  la  Duxelle 860 

—  scrambled,  a  In  Jerome 861 

—  scrambled,  a  la  Martinez 861 

—  scrambled,    in    a    risot    border    with 

ducks'  livers 861 

—  scrambled,  with  anchovy  croustades. .  860 

—  scrambled,  with  fine  herbs 861 

—  scrambled,  with  gravy 861 

—  scrambled,    with    lobster,    garnished 

with  Villeroi  oysters 861 

—  scrambled,  with  mushrooms 861 

—  scrambled,  with  Perigord  truffles. . . .  862 

—  scrambled,  with  Piedmont  truffles...  862 

—  scrambled,  with  sweetbreads 862 

—  scrambled,  with  Swiss  and  Parmesan 

cheese 862 

—  scrambled,  with  tomato  puree 862 

—  scrambled,  with  tomatoes  and  chives.  862 

—  soft,  a  la  Chipolata  (Fig.  570) 863 

—  soft,  for  epicures 863 

—  soft,  with  puree  of  sorrel 863 

—  snow,  or  floating  islands 915 


PAGE. 

Eggs,  snow,  molded 916 

—  stuffed 884 

—  to  beat  the  whites  of 185 

—  with  cream,  meringued 884 

—  with  coffee,  cream  meringued 884 

Eggplant  a  la  Duperret — broiled 826 

—  a  la  Morton — in  cases 826 

—  a  la  Robertson    826 

—  breaded 827 

—  fried    827 

—  stuffed  and  baked 826 

Elementary  Methods 169 

—  Almonds  and  filberts,  burnt 169 

—  Almonds,  Conde  or  filbert  preparation.  169 

—  Almond  cream 182 

—  Almond  milk 169 

—  Almond  paste  for  fancy  cakes 201 

—  Almond  paste  with  cooked  sugar 201 

—  Almond  paste  with  egg-yolks 201 

—  Almond  paste  with  gum  tragacanth. .  201 

—  Almond  paste  with  pistachios 201 

—  Almonds,  pistachios  or  filberts,  to  peel.  169 

—  Almonds,  to  chop  or  shred 169 

—  Almonds,  to  pound,  crush  or  color. . .  169 

—  Baba  paste 201 

—  Blanch  rice,  to ,  170 

—  Blanch  vegetables,  to 170 

—  Bone  poultry  or  game,  to 170 

—  Borders  for  dishes,  of  noodle,  cooked 

paste,  and  metal  (Figs.  1  to  6)  ...  170 

—  Borders    of    English    paste    or    gum 

paste  (Fig.  6a) 171 

—  Bouchees,  to  prepare  (Figs.  16,  17,  18).  173 

—  Braize,  to  poeler,  smother  or  sauter 

meats 173 

—  Bread,  to,  with  bread-crumbs,  English 

style,  flour,  Milanese,  crackers  and 

deviled 174 

—  Breasts  of   pork,  salted  and  smoked, 

English  bacon 174 

—  Brine 174 

—  Brioche  paste 202 

—  Butter,  clarified  and  purified 175 

—  Butter,  cold,  for  buttering  molds 175 

—  Butter  for  buttering  molds    175 

—  Caramels,  to  prepare  liquid 175 

—  Carmine  coloring 182 

—  Carve  fish,  how  to  (Fig.  24) 176 

—  Carve  goose  or  duck,  how  to  (Fig.  34).  179 

—  Carve  hot  ham,  how  to  (Fig.  31) 178 

—  Carve  leg  of  mutton,  how  to  (Fig.  32).  178 

—  Carve  loin  and  kernel  of  veal,  how  to.  179 

—  Carve  partridges,  how  to  (Figs.  25,  26, 

27,  28) 177 

—  Carve  pheasants,  how  to 177 

—  Carve  pigeons,  how  to 179 

—  Carve  prairie  chicken  or  grouse,  how 

to 177 

—  Carve  pullet  or  capon,  how  to  (Figs. 

35,  36,  37) 179 

—  Carve  roast  beef  ribs,  how  to  (Fig.  29).  177 

—  Carve  roast  turkey,  how  to  (Fig.  38). .  180 


INDEX. 


1155 


PAGH. 
Elementary  Methods— 

—  Carve  saddle  of  braized  mutton,  how 

to(Fig.  33) 179 

—  Carve  saddle  of  roasted  mutton,  lamb 

or  venison,  how  to    179 

—  Carve  tenderloin  of  beef,  how  to  (Fig 

30) 178 

—  Carve,  to,  on  the  table  (Figs.  19,  20, 

31,22) 176 

—  Chopped  parsley  (see  parsley  bouquet).  201 
*—  Chopped     parsley,    truffles,     onions, 

shallots,  mushrooms,   tongue  and 

coral 180 

—  Coat  jelly  molds  and  mold  jellies,  to 

(Fig.  39) 181 

—  Cochineal  red ,  coloring 182 

—  Cocoanut,  to  prepare 181 

—  Colorings — carmine  and  red  cochineal.  182 

—  Colors,  vegetable 181 

—  Cooked  paste  for  fanciful  borders. . . .  202 

—  Court-bouillon,  plain 182 

—  Court-bouillon  with  wine. 182 

—  Cream,  almond 182 

—  Cream  cake  paste 202 

—  Cream,  English,  with  coffee 182 

—  Cream,  English,  with  vanilla,  lemon 

or  orange  zest 182 

—  Cream,  Frangipane,  with  chocolate  or 

marrow 183 

—  Cream,  Frangipane,  with  vanilla 183 

—  Cream,  Mocha 183 

—  Cream,  pistachio  or  nut 183 

—  Cream,  pastry,  with  vanilla 183 

—  Cream,  Quillet 183 

—  Cream,  St.  Honore 183 

—  Cream,  whipped  or  Chantilly 184 

—  Croutons,  to  prepare,  for  soups,  roasts, 

vegetables,  eggs,  game,  etc.  (Figs. 

40,  41) 184 

—  Crusts,  to  make  plain  puff  paste  (Fig. 

45) 185 

—  Crusts,  to  prepare  hollow  (Figs.  42, 

43,  44,  44a) 184 

—  Dish   bottoms,  foundations  and   sup- 

ports   171 

—  Dressing  paste 202 

—  Eels,  to  skin 186 

—  Egging  and  moistening 185 

—  Eggs,  to  beat  the  whites  of  (Fig.  46). .  185 

—  English  paste  for  borders 203 

—  Fancy  frills  for  cutlets,  chicken  legs  or 

wings  (Figs.  14, 15) 173 

—  Fancy  frills   for   large   pieces,  leg  of 

mutton  or  ham  (Figs.  12,  13) 172 

—  Fat  for  frying 185 

—  Fat  for  socles  and  flowers 185 

—  Favor  frills. 173 

—  Filbert  paste  with  cooked  sugar 201 

—  Fish  slice  (Fig.  24) 177 

—  Fish,  to  scale  and  clean 186 

—  Flawn  paste 203 

—  Fondant . .  186 


PASO. 
Elementary  Methods — 

—  Forcemeat,  baking,  for  ordinary  use. .  19i 

—  Forcemeat,    bread    stuffing,  English 

and  American  style . , 187 

—  Forcemeat,    chicken,    fish     or    game, 

with  whipped  cream  and  butter. . .  188 

—  Forcemeat,  chicken,  or  game,  without 

panada 187 

—  Forcemeat,  chicken   liver,  fine  baking  188 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  for  chicken  gal- 

antines 188 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  for  country  sau- 

sages with  sage 189 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  for  game  galan- 

tines   18ft 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  for  game  pie. . .  188 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  for  ordinary  sau- 

sages    189 

—  Forcemeat,    chopped,   with  chestnuts 

and  chestnuts  and  truffles — cooked  189 

—  Forcemeat,  chopped,  with  truffles. . . .  189 

—  Forcemeat,  codfish,  for  stuffing  fish. .  189 

—  Forcemeat,  cooked  and   raw  game  or 

chicken,  for  lining  paper  fases. . .  189 

—  Forcemeat,  cream   chicken,  bechamel 

and  mushroom  puree 190 

—  Forcemeat,  cream   chicken  or  game.  190 

—  Forcemeat,  cream,  of  fish 190 

—  Forcemeat,  fish,  baked 19G' 

—  Forcemeat,  foies  gras 190 

—  Forcemeat,  for    borders,    bottoms  of 

dishes  and  surtouts  of  chicken  or 

game  with  rice 190 

—  Forcemeat    for    borders,   bottoms   of 

dishes  and  surtouts  of  foies-gras 

and  chicken 190 

—  Forcemeat,  Godiveau  of  chicken. . .    .  191 

—  Forcemeat,  Godiveau  of  pike 191 

—  Forcemeat,    Godiveau    of  rabbit    or 

other  game 191 

—  Forcemeat,  Godiveau  of  veal 191 

—  Forcemeat,  mousseline,  chicken 191 

—  Forcemeat,  mousseline,  game 192 

—  Forcemeat,  mousseline,  salmon   192 

—  Forcemeat,    quenelle,    chicken,    with 

Soubise  or  tomato 192 

—  Forcemeat,  quenelle,  fish 192 

—  Forcemeat,  quenelle,  game 192 

—  Forcemeat,  quenelle,  lamb 198 

—  Forcemeat,  ravioles  of   beef,  chicken 

and  veal  for 193 

—  Forcemeats,  remarks  on 186 

—  Forcemeats,  to  arrange,  prepare,  make 

and  rectify  (Figs.  47,  48, 49) 186 

—  Foundation  paste,  fine 203 

—  Foundation  paste,  ordinary  or  short. .  203 

—  Fried  parsley  (s>ee  parsley  bouquet)..  201 

—  Frolle  or  sweet  paste 203 

—  Frying  batters 203 

—  Game,  to  bone 170 

—  Gelatine,  to  prepare  from  calf's  feet,  193 

—  Gelatine,  to  prepare  from  pig's  skin. .  194 


1154 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGK. 
Elementary  Methods — 

—  Gherkins 194 

• —  Grated  horseradish  and  ribbons 194 

—  Grated  Parmesan  and  Swiss  cheese.. .  194 

—  Grease  flowers,  to  make 186 

—  Hams,  for  winter 175 

—  Hams?,  to  salt 175 

—  Hatelets  for  hot  removes  and  entrees 

(skewers)  (Fig.  11) 172 

—  Icing,  chocolate — cooked 194 

—  Icing,  cocoa — cooked 194 

-~  Icing,  royal,  and  flavored  with  zests..  195 

•"-^  Icing,  uncooked  fruit  juices 195 

••  --  Icing,  with   syrup,  for  cakes  flavored 

with   vanilla,  orange,  lemon    and 

fruit  juices 195 

—  Jelly,  aspic,  to  prepare,  clarify  and  fil- 
ter (Figs.  50,  51) 195 

—  Jelly,  calf's  foot,  with  Madeira  wine.  196 

—  Jelly,  meat,  with  gelatine 196 

—  Jelly  molds,  to  coat , 181 

—  Jelly,   sweet,    with   gelatine  or    fish 

isinglass 196 

—  Lard 196 

—  Lard   meats,    poultry   and    game,    to 

(Figs.  56  to  59) 197 

—  Lard,  axunge  196 

—  Lard,  veal  udder 197 

—  Larding  pork,  to  prepare 197 

—  Larding,  to  cut  fat  pork  for  (Figs.  52 

to  55) 197 

—  Lemons,   to  cut  in  various  manners 

(Figs.  60,  61) 198 

—  Marinade,  cooked 199 

—  Marinade,  raw 199 

—  Meringues,  Low  to  dress  (Fig.  62).  . .  199 

—  Mincemeat 199 

—  Mushrooms,  to  turn,  channel  and  flute  199 

—  Olives,  to  stone  (Fig.  63) 200 

—  Panada,  cream  Frangipane 200 

—  Panada  of  flour  and  milk,  bread-crumb 

and  pate  a  chou 200 

—  Panada,  wheat  and  rice  flour 200 

—  Parsley  bouquet  in  branches,  fried  or 

chopped 200 

—  Paste,  almond,  for  fancy  cakes  201 

—  Paste,  almond,  with  cooked  sugar  . . .  201 

—  Paste,  almond,  with  egg-yolks 201 

—  Paste,  almond,  with  gum  tragacanth.  201 

—  Paste,  almond,  with  pistachios 201 

—  Paste,  Baba 201 

—  Paste,  Brioche 202 

—  Paste,  cooked,  for  fanciful  borders. . .  202 

—  Paste,  cream  cake  (Pate-a-chou) 202 

—  Paste,  dressing 202 

—  Paste,  English,  for  borders 203 

—  Paste,  filbert,  with  cooked  sugar.   . . .  201 

—  Paste,  fine 203 

—  Paste,  flawn 203 

—  Paste,  foundation 203 

—  Paste,  f rolle 203 

—  Paste,  frying  batters 203 


PAGE. 

Elementary  Methods— 

—  Paste,  macaroon 204 

—  Paste,  marchpane,  with  orange-flower 

water 204 

—  Paste,  meringue,  plain 204 

—  Paste,  Italian  meringue 204 

—  Paste,  Milan 204 

—  Paste,  noodle,  for  borders 204 

—  Paste,  office 204 

—  Paste,  pie — cold 204 

—  Paste,  pie — hot 205 

—  Paste,  puff  and  half  puff  (Figs.  64,  65, 

66) 205 

—  Paste,  Raviole 206 

—  Paste,  repere  for  fastening 204 

—  Paste,  Savarin 206 

—  Paste,  short 203 

—  Paste,  sweet. 203 

—  Paste,  tart 206 

—  Paste,  timbale 206 

—  Patties,  small  puff  (Figs.  67,  68,  69). .  206 

—  Poeler  meats,  to 173 

—  Poach  quenelles,  small  timbales  and 

mousselines,  to 207 

—  Press  meat  for  juice,  galantines,  breasts 

sweetbreads,  etc.,  to  (Figs.  70,  71).  207 

—  Quenelles,     decorated,     molded     and 

pocket,  to  prepare  (Figs.  72  to  79).  208 

—  Quenelles,  to   mold    with    a   spoon — 

plain,  filled  or  rolled  in  flour  (Figs. 

80  to  84) 209 

—  Raise,  pare  and  poach  breasts  of  poul- 

try and  eame,  to 209 

=—  Raisins  and  currants,  to  clean — Smyr- 
na and  Malaga 210 

—  Ravioles  (Fig.  85,  86,  87)  210 

—  Reduce  and  strain  sauces  through  a 

tammy,  to  (Figs.  88) 210 

—  Rice  for  croustades  and  with  cream. . .  211 

—  Rissoles,  to  prepare  (Fig.  89,  90).    ...  211 

—  Roots,  to  cut  with  a  spoon  or  a  vege- 

table cutter  (Figs.  91,  92) 211 

—  Roux,  blond  and  brown 212 

—  Rum,  flavored  with  vanilla,  spirit  of 

strawberries,  raspberries  and  apri- 
cots   212 

—  Salpicon,  how  to  prepare 213 

—  Salt  hams,  to . .  175 

—  Sauter  meats,  to 173 

—  Scald,  to 213 

—  Sieve  cloth  of  different  size   meshes 

(Figs.  93  to  98) 213 

—  Smother  meats,  to 173 

—  Spices,  aromatics  and  seasonings  for 

cooking  purposes 213 

—  Stearine,  how  to  cast  and  color 214 

—  Stock,  white,  for  meats  and  vegetables  221 

—  Strain  puree  (Figs   99,  99a,  99b) 215 

—  Sugar  of  different   colors   and  icing 

sugar 217 

—  Sugar,  to  cook 216 

—  Tart,  band  (Fig.  100) 217 


IlSiDEX. 


1155 


PAGE. 
Elementary  Methods — 

—  Tart,  empty,  Ancient  style  (Fig.  101).  217 

—  Thickenings   for    soups,    sauces    and 

stews 218 

—  Timbale  crusts,  to  line  and  bake 218 

—  Triangle   for    dressing    tongues,  etc. 

(Fig.  10) 172 

—  Truffles,  to  brush  and  peel 219 

—  Truss,   singe   and   dress   poultry  and 

game  for  entrees  (Figs.  102,  103, 

104)  219 

—  Truss,  singe   and   dress   poultry  and 

game  for  roasting  (Figs.  105  to  111)  219 

—  Veal  udder 197 

—  Vegetable  colors 181 

—  Vol  au-vent  crust  (Fig.  112)   221 

—  Vol-au-vent  crust  in  two  pieces  (Figs. 

113,  114) 221 

—  White  stock  for  meat  and  vegetables.  221 
—  Winter  hams,  for 175 

Endives  or  escaroles  glazed 827 

English  paste  for  borders    203 

Escalops  of  beef  palates  with  puree  of 

chestnuts  (Fig.  422) 690 

—  of  beef  with  truffles — tenderloin 690 

—  of  chicken,  Financiere 691 

—  of   fat   livers   with    risot,  Perigueux 

sauce 691 

—  of  fat  livers,  a  la  Rulli 691 

—  of  fat  livers  Villeneuve ;  691 

—  of  lamb  or  veal  a  la  Habirshaw 692 

—  of  pheasants  with  olives 692 

—  of  sweetbreads,  a  la  Careme 692 

—  of  veal  a  1'Arnold — kernel 692 

—  of  young  hare  a  la  Roederer,  garnished 

with  quenelles 692 

Escaroles,  glazed 827 

Fancy  favor  frills 173 

—  frills  for  cutlets,  chicken  legs  or  wings 

(Figs.  14,  15) 173 

—  frills  for  large  pieces,  leg  of  mutton 

or  ham  (Figs.  12,  13) 172 

Fat  for  frying 185 

—  for  socles  and  flowers 185 

—  livers  a  la  Toulousiane — whole  (Fig. 

423) 693 

Fedelini,  vermicellini  au  Cardinal 865 

Figs,  brandied 1050 

—  jam 1053 

—  marmalade 1053 

Filbert  paste 201 

Filter  fruit  juices,  to 916 

Fiori  di  latte  (see  ices) 991 

Fish  slice  (Figs.  24,  289,  290) 177,  436 

—  to  scale  and  clean 186 

Flamri  of  apples 916 

—  of  cream 916 

—  of  semolina 916 

Flavor  sugar  with  zests  of  vanilla 916 

—  syrups  with  zests 916 

NFIawri.  a  la  Manhattan 884 

—  apple — latticed 917    » 


Flawn,  apricot  (Fig.  589,  590). 

—  au  Lion  d'Or 

—  cherry ....    

—  fruit 

—  gooseberry 


—  meringue 

—  nectarine 

—  paste 

—  peach .... 

—  pear  and  apple 

—  plum 

Floating  Islands 

Flonnder 

—  a  la  Dieppoise 

—  a  la  Genlis 

—  a  la  Joinville 

—  a  la  Jules  Janin 

—  a  la  Madeleine 

—  ProvenQal  style 

Flowers  of  pulled  sugar  (Figs.  735  to  741). 
Foies-gras  in  border 

—  in  cradle,  to  be  cut  in  slices 

Fondant 

—  dipped  in  strawberry  or  raspberry. . . 

—  of  chocolate 

—  of  vanilla 

Fondne  with  Piedmontese  truffles 

Fontage  croustades  a  la  Flavignan 

Forcemeat,  baking  for  ordinary  use 

—  chicken,  fish  or  game,  with  whipped 

cream  and  butter 

—  chicken  liver,  fine  baking 

—  chicken  or  game,  without  panada. . . . 

—  chopped,  for  chicken  galantines 

—  chopped,  for  country   sausages   with 

sage 

—  chopped,  for  game  galantines 

—  chopped,  for  game  pie 

—  chopped,  for  ordinary  sausages 

—  chopped,  with   chestnuts   and   chest- 

nuts and  truffles — cooked 

—  chopped,  with  truffles 

—  codfish,  for  stuffing  fish 

—  cooked  and  raw  game  or  chicken,  for 

lining  paper  cases 

—  cream  chicken,  bechamel  and  mush- 

room puree. . .    

—  cream  chicken  or  game 

—  cream,  of  fish 

—  fish,  baked 

—  f  oies-gras 

1 —  for  borders,  bottoms  of  dishes  and 
surtouts  of  chicken  or  game  with 
rice 

—  for  borders,  bottoms  of  dishes  and  sur- 

touts of  f  oies-gras  and  chicken. . . . 

—  mousseline,  chicken 

—  mousseline,  game 

—  mousseline,  salmon w , . 

—  quenelle,    chicken,    with    soubise    or 

tomato 

—  quenelle,  fish , 


PAGE. 
917 

884 
917 
917 
918 
918 
917 
203 
917 
918 
917 
915 
438 
438 
439 
439 
439 
439 
439 
1032 
752 
752 
186 
1048 
1048 
1048 
865 
382 
191 

188 
188 
187 
188 

189 

188 
188 
189 


189 

190 
190 
190 
190 
190 


190 

190 
191 

192 
192 

192 
192 


1158 


THE    EIPICUHEAISr. 


PAGE. 

Forcemeat,  quenelle,  game 192 

—  quenelle,  lamb 193 

—  ravioles  of  beef,  chicken  and  veal,  for.  193 

—  remarks  on 186 

—  to  prepare,  make  and  rectify  (Figs.  47, 

48,  49) 186 

Foundation  paste,  fine 203 

—  ordinary  or  short 203 

Freeze    champagne,   how   to   (Figs.    768, 

769) 1065 

Fritters,  alliance 885 

—  anchovy 368 

—  apple — glazed  and  unglazed 885 

—  apple,  quartered 886 

—  apple  with  prunelle  or  with  kirsch. . .  885 

—  apricot  or  peach  with  maraschino 885 

—  brioche  and  cream  with  sabayon 886 

—  celeriac 886 

—  cherry,  fresh  or  brandied 886 

—  corn  (see  sirloin  of  beef) 482 

—  cream  of  rice 886 

—  Montagnard 885 

—  Mundane 887 

—  orange  a  la  Talleyrand 887 

—  pear 886 

—  Singapore 887 

—  souffled  a  la  Medicis 887 

—  souffled  with  lemon  peel 888 

—  souffled  with  roasted  hazel-nuts 888 

—  strawberry  with  macaroons,  garnished 

with  glazed  strawberry  fritters. . .  888 

—  Triumvirate,  Roman 888 

Frogs  (Fig.  271) 407 

Frogs'  legs  a  la  d'Antin 407 

—  a  la  Osborn  407 

—  a  la  poulette  with  mushrooms 407 

—  deviled 407 

—  fried  a  la  Orly 407 

—  fried,  with  cream  sauce 407 

—  Royer 407 

Frolle  or  sweet  paste 203 

Frostflsh  or  whiting,  Cherbourg  style. . . .  440 

—  or  whiting,  baked 440 

—  or  whiting,  fried 440 

Fruits  a  la  Creole  (Fig.  576) 889 

—  as  side  dishes 361 

—  fresh  and  dry 1058 

—  juices 1052 

—  preserved,  candied  and  crystallized. . .  1054 

Frying  batters 203 

Galantine  of  chicken  (Fig.  484) 752 

—  of  chicken  a  la  d'Orleans  (Fig.  486). .  753 

—  of  duckling,  pear-shaped 754 

—  of  eel,  decorated 754 

—  of  gosling,  melon- shaped 755 

—  of  Guinea  fowls  a  la  Lytton 755 

—  of  partridges  a  la  Clementine  (Fig. 

487) 755 

—  of  partridges  and  sliced  in  Bellevue. .  756 

—  of  partridges,  Elizabeth 756 

—  of  pheasant  a  la  Lorenzo 757 

—  of  pheasants,  cut  up  (Fig.  488) 757 


PAGE. 
Galantine  of  pheasant,  Voliere  a  la  Casi- 

mir  Perier  (Fig.  451) 728 

—  of  pheasant,  Voliere  a  la  Waddington  729 

—  of  pigeons 758 

—  of  pullet   or  capon  a  la  Mozart  (Fig. 

489) 758 

—  of  suckling  pig 758 

—  of  turkey  a  la   Berger  (boned  turkey) 

(Fig  490) '..  75S 

Galettes  puffed  and  half  puffed 952 

Game 637 

—  to  bone , 170 

Garnishings    (cold)    artichoke    bottoms 

filled  with  macedoine 759 

—  artichoke  bottoms,   imperial 759 

—  eggs  a  la  Develle 760 

—  eggs  a  la  Jardiniere 760 

—  eggs  a  la  Juliette 760 

—  eggs  a  la  Justine 760 

—  eggs  a  la  Rouennaise 760 

—  eggs,  barrel-shaped 761 

—  eggs,  basket  shape  (Fig.  491) 761 

—  eggs  in  chaudfroid   761 

—  eggs  halved  (Fig.  492) 761 

—  eggs,  Moscovite. . . 761 

—  eggs,  Polish  style 761 

—  eggs  quartered,  -decorated  (Fig.  493). .  762 

—  eggs  stuffed  with  salpicon 762 

—  eggs  vase-shaped  (Fig.  494) 762 

—  eggs  whole — yolks  (Fig.  495) 762 

—  for  cold  desserts 918 

—  mushrooms  glazed  with  chaudfroid — 

stuffed  (Fig.  496) 762 

—  olives,  Spanish— stuffed  (Fig.  497). ...  762 

—  oysters  in  croustades ,  762 

—  oysters  with  jelly  . . ., 763 

Garnishings  (hot) 331 

—  admiral 331 

—  a  la  Reine 331 

—  Andalouse 331 

—  Aquitaine 331 

—  barley  a  la  Reine .  331 

—  beef     tongue,      Andalusian     tomato 

sauce 331 

—  bouchees  of  puree  of  pheasants 332 

—  Bourgeoise 332 

—  Bretigny 332 

—  Brochettes,    Parma 332 

—  Brussels 332 

—  calves' brains,  fried 332 

—  Cardinal 333 

—  carrots  and  peas  (sirloin  of  beef) 483 

—  cepes  or  mushrooms  a  la  Duxelle — 

stuffed 333 

—  cepes  or  mushrooms,  minced  with  be- 

chamel   333 

—  Provengal 333 

—  Chambord 333 

—  cheese  crusts  and  Chester  cheese. . . .  333 

—  chestnuts  with  gravy 334 

• —  Chevreuse 334 

—  chicken  minion  fillets. .  334 


INDEX. 


1157 


PAGE. 

(Sarnishings  (hot),  Chipolata 3S4 

—  clioux  with  cheese 334 

—  cocks'-combs  a  la  Colbert 335 

—  Connetable 335 

—  crawfish 335 

—  Demidoff 335 

—  Dolphettes  of  chicken 335 

—  Dolphettes  of  tenderloin  of  beef 336 

—  Ducness 336 

—  eggs  with  cheese 333 

—  Fermiere 336 

—  Financiere  for  removes  and  entrees. . .  336 

—  Flemish 336 

—  French 336 

—  fritadelles  of  roast  beef 337 

—  fritadelles  of  veal 337 

—  Godard 337 

—  gooseberry 447 

—  Qriboulettes 337 

—  Gri  mod 337 

—  Henrion 337 

—  Imperial 338 

—  Jardiniere 338 

—  livers  a  la  Vincelas 338 

—  livers,  chicken,  in  cases  or  croustades  338 

—  Lorenzo 588 

—  macedoine 338 

—  marrow  and  chives  canapes 339 

—  marrow  fritters 839 

—  marrow  fritters  with  truffles 339 

—  matelote 339 

—  matelote  Bourguignotte. ...   339 

—  matelote  mariniere. 339 

—  matelote  Normande 339 

—  milt 340 

—  mirmidons  with  parmesan 340 

—  inoril  and  girolle 340 

—  mousserons.  Princess  sauce 340 

—  mushrooms  a  la  Delsart 341 

—  mussels  a  la  Villeroi 342 

—  mussels  Bordelaise 341 

—  noisettes  of  veal  and  lambs'  fries;  fleu- 

rette  sauce 341 

—  olives,  plain  or  stuffed 341 

—  oronges  a  la  Livournaise 341 

—  oyster  a  la  Tykopf 842 

—  oysters  a  la  Villeroi 342 

—  oysters   for    shells    for    patties    with 

mushrooms 342 

—  palate  of  beef  a  la  Mancelle,  in  cases.  342 

—  Polpettes 342 

—  prawns,    crawfish,    crabs  or    lobsters 

with  raw  fine  herbs 342 

«—  Provengal 342 

—  puree  of  artichoke  bottoms  and  Jeru- 

salem artichokes 343 

.—  puree  of  asparagus 343 

—  pure"e  of  Bretonne  beans 343 

—  pure*e  of  Brussels  sprouts 343 

—  puree  of  cabbage,  Milan  or  Savoy. . . .  343 

—  puree  of  carrots 343 

—  puree  of  cauliflower  or  sea-kale 344 


PAGK 
Garnishing  (hot),  puree  of  celery,  celery 

knobs  and  cardoons 844 

—  puree  of  chestnuts 844 

—  puree  of  chicken 344 

—  puree  of  cucumbers 344 

—  puree  of  flageolets 345 

—  puree  of  game 345 

—  puree  of  garlic 345 

—  puree  of  Kohl-rabies 345 

—  puree  of  lentils  with  cream 345 

—  puree  of  lettuce 345 

—  puree  of  lima  or  broad  beans 345 

—  puree  of  lobster 345 

—  puree  of  mushrooms  and  morils,  culti- 

vated and  wild 346 

—  puree  of  peas — split 346 

—  puree  of  potatoes 346 

—  puree  of  pumpkin.    .    347 

—  puree  of  sorrel 347 

—  puree  of  spinach  or  chicory 347 

—  puree  of  sweet  potatoes 346 

—  puree  of  tomatoes 347 

—  puree  of  truffles  and  truffles  with  rice.  347 

—  puree  of  turnips 347 

—  puree   of    white  onions,   soubise    or 

brown 346 

—  puree,  soubise 346 

—  quenelles  of  cheese 348 

—  quenelles  of  chicken  or  game,  molded 

in  a  spoon 348 

—  quenelles  of  fish,  molded  and  pocket 

chicken  quenelles 348 

—  quenelles,    godiveau    of    veal,    pike, 

chicken  or  game 348 

—  Ramisolles 348 

—  rice,  Indian  style,  and  with  butter. . . .  348 

—  Richelieu,  ancient  and  modern 349 

—  risot,  Piedmontese , 349 

—  Rothschild    and  cocks'-kidneys,   Vil- 

leroi   349 

—  salpicon,  Columbian. 350 

—  salpicon,  fat  livers 350 

—  salpicon,  Flavignan 350 

—  salpicon  garnishings 349 

—  salpicon,  Hunter's...., 350 

—  salpicon,  lobster,  shrimp  or  crawfish 

with  mushrooms  or  truffles 350 

—  salpicon,  Montglas 350 

—  salpicon,  Palermitaine 350 

—  salpicon,  Previllot 350 

—  salpicon,  Regence,  fat  or  lean 350 

—  salpicon,  Royal 351 

—  salpicon,  Turbigo 351 

—  salpicon,  turtle 351 

—  sausage,   for    Chipolata,    Lubeck    or 

Strasburg — smoked 351 

—  scallop  shells  for  releves 351 

—  Spanish,  sweet  peppers — sauted 351 

—  spinal  marrow 353 

—  straws  cheese .  352 

—  Swiss  cheese  souffle — small 352 

—  tartlets  a  la  Partnentier..   .  352 


1158 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE.     4« 
Garnish  ings  (hot),  tartlets  of  noques  with 

parmesan 352 

—  tan'lets,  Polenta 353 

—  tartlets,  semolino 353 

—  tartlets,  spinach 353 

—  tartlets  with  cream  and  parmesan  . . .  353 

—  Toulouse 353 

—  truffle 353 

—  turtle,  and  for  lean 354 

—  wings  of  turkey  or  pullet  a  la  Villeroi.  354 

—  Yorkshire  pudding 354 

Gastrite 445 

Gelatine,  to  prepare  from  calf's  feet 193 

—  to  prepare  from  pig's  skin 194 

Genoese  cake  (see  cakes) 935 

—  light 952 

—  with  cream  meringued 952 

Gherkins  (Fig.  206) 359 

—  to  prepare 194 

Gnocquis 865 

—  Roman  style 865 

—  timbale  a  la  Choiseul 870 

Godiveau  of  chicken 191 

—  of  pike    191 

—  of  rabbit  or  other  game 191 

—  of  veal 191 

Golden  buck,  Welsh  rarebit,  a  la  Cutting 

or  Yorkshire 389 

Goose  a  la  Cbipolata 612 

—  a  la  Royer 612 

—  a  la  Tbieblin — roasted , 612 

—  breast,  smoked 366 

—  German  style — roasted 613 

—  giblets  with  turnips 613 

—  mongrel    614 

—  stuffed  with  chestnuts  (Fig.  377) 613 

—  with  sausages  and  chestnuts — roasted.  613 

Gooseberries  with  cream 918 

Gooseberry  cakes  and  tarts 952 

Gosling  a  la  Soyer 613 

—  roast 614 

—  sauted  with  tomatoes,  Robert  sauce. .  614 

—  stewed  with  turnips 614 

Gramolates  or  granites  (see  iced  drinks). .  1027 

Grape  fruits  a  la  Madison  (see  iced  drinks)  1027 

Grease  flowers,  to  make 186 

Green  almonds,  imitation  of 1033 

Greengages,  brandied 1050 

—  preserved . ..  1053 

Green  peas  a  la  Fleurette— (mangetout). .  827 

—  English  style 827 

—  French  style 827 

—  French  style,  with  sugar 827 

—  housekeeper's  style 827 

—  Parisian  style — small 828 

—  puree 827 

—  with  braised  lettuces 828 

—  with  shredded  lettuces 828 

Grenades  with  cberries 889 

Grouper  a  la  Franklyn 440 

Grouse  (Fig.  394) 639 

—  prairie  bens  or  ptarmigans — broiled...  643 


PAQB. 

Grouse  or  prairie  hen  cutlets  a  la  Segard..  687 

—  or  prairie  hens  roasted   with   gravy, 

fried  bread  crumbs  or  apple  sauce  643 

—  or  prairie   hens  a  la  Tzarina — breasts 

(Fig.  398) 643 

Gudgeons  or  white  bait  fried  in  butter. . . .  440 

Guinea  fowl  (Fig.  378) 615 

—  larded  and   decorated  with  their  own 

feathers — roasted 615 

—  fillets  a  la  Gaillardet 615 

—  with  sauerkraut 615 

Gum  paste 1034 

Gurnet,  marinated 367 

Haddock,  ancient  style 440 

—  Finnan  baddies,  baked  with  cream. . .  441 

—  Finnan  baddies,  broiled  maitre-d'hotel  441 

—  Holland  style 441 

Halibut,  Admiral  (Fig.  292) 441 

—  a  la  Coligny 441 

—  a  la  Richmond 442 

—  Kadgiori 442 

—  with  fine  herbs  a  la  Reynal 442 

—  chicken,  baked,  and  with  parmesan. .  442 

—  chicken,  with  carrot  sauce 442 

Ham  a  la  Benedict — roasted 574 

—  a  la  Gatti,  decorated  (Fig.  498) 763 

—  a  la  Leonard — boiled « ,  .  ....  574 

—  for  winter ,  ,    . .  175 

—  glazed  with  sugar 763 

—  kernel  a  la  Biarritz 576 

—  pie 780 

—  roasted  on  the  spit,  Madeira  sauce,  or 

marinated  and  roasted,  white  wine 

sauce 574 

—  to  salt 175 

—  truffled  a  la  Florian  (Fig.  499) 764 

—  Westphalian,    boiled    and    raw  (Fig. 

207) 360 

—  with     carrots,    stuffed     tomatoes    or 

mushrooms — braized  and  glazed . .  575 

—  with  Jardiniere — roasted 574 

—  with  jelly,  English  (Fig.  500) 764 

—  with  spinach — boiled 575 

—  with  stringed  eggs — Virginia  ham. ...  575 

Hams  of  Chicken  with  Zampmo 765 

Hare  a  la  Chatelaine — stuffed 644 

—  back,  roasted,  with  cream  (Fig.  3991 .  645 

—  jugged 644 

—  pie,  without  a  mold 781 

—  young,  a  la  Castiglioue — sauted 645 

—  young,  a  la  Polignac — epigrammes.,  645 

—  young,  cutlets  a  la  Favorite 690 

—  young,  fillets,  with  currant   jelly  and 

raisin  sauce 646 

—  young,  paupiettes,  with  stuffed  olives  646 
Hash  a  la  Sam  Ward — tenderloin  of  beef.  693 

—  a  la  Sheppler — tenderloin  of  beef.  . . .  693 

—  beef,  corned 693 

—  beef,  corned,  American  style 693 

—  chicken,  ancient  style 693 

—  chicken — baked 694 

—  lamb,  a  la  Celestine — baked 694 


INDEX. 


1159 


Hash,  lamb,  Creole  style  ................. 

•  —  lainb,  with  bananas  ................. 

—  mutton,  a  la  Omer  Pacba  ............ 

•  —  partridge,  a  la  Cleinenceau  .......... 

—  pheasant  ........................... 

—  veal  cakes,  Brittany  style  ............ 

—  venison,   American    style,   and    with 

poached  eggs  ................... 

—  woodcock,   in   a   croustade  with   soft 

eggs  .....................  .  ..... 

—  young    rabbit,    garnished   with    cro- 

quettes ......................... 

Hatelets,  Bellevue  (Figs.  501  to  507)  ...... 

—  chopped  sticky  jelly  ................ 

—  chopped  transparent  jelly  ........... 

—  croutons  ............................ 

—  for  hot  removes  and  entrees  (skewers) 

(Fig.  11)  ........................ 

•  lean,  for  fish  ....................... 

—  miscellaneous  .......  ............... 

—  vegetable  .......................... 

Head  cheese    -----  ..................... 

—  pig's,  puree  of  split  green  peas  ...... 

—  wild  boar,  decorated  (Fig   537)  ....... 

Herrings,  fresh,  a  la  Calaisienne  ......... 

—  fresh,  mustard  sauce  ...............  . 

—  fresh,  thickened  uiaitre-d'hotel  sauce 

—  Dutch,  paupiettes  of,  Polonaise  ...... 

—  paupiettes  with  milts  ................ 

—  salt,  with  mashed  potatoes  ........... 

—  shad  or  mackerel,  marinated  ......... 

—  smoked  ........................... 

—  smoked  and  salted  with  cream  ....... 

Hominy  and  Samp  (crushed  corn)  ....... 

Hop  stalks  or  points,  fried  ............... 

—  stalks  or  points,  with  Viennese  sauce 
Hors-d'oeuvre  —  cold  ......  .............. 

—  hot  ................................ 

Horseradish,  ........................... 

—  grated  ............................. 

—  ribbons  ..........   ......  .  .......... 

Ice  cream,  a  la  Cialdini  ................ 

—  Andalusian  —  without  cooking  ....... 

—  apricot  ........................... 

—  burnt  almond  ..................... 

—  burnt  almond  with  angelica  ......... 

—  caramel  ............................ 

—  cherries  .....................   ...... 

—  chocolate  ........................... 

—  cinnamon  .....   ................... 

—  cocoa  .............................. 

—  Columbia  .......................... 

—  currant  ............................ 

—  fresh  fruits  —  without  eggs  or  cooking. 

—  ginger  ............................. 

—  nectarines  ......................... 

—  nougat  ........................... 

—  nougat,  Neapolitan  ................. 

—  peach,  a  la  Herbster  ............... 

—  peaches  ............................ 

—  pineapple  ......  .................... 

—  pistachio  ........................... 


PAGE. 
694 
694 
694 
694 
695 
695 

695 
695 

696 
766 

767 
767 
765 

172 
766 
765 
766 
802 
576 
801 
442 
443 
443 
360 
443 
443 
360 
360 
443 
640 
828 
828 
355 
368 
360 
194 
194 
986 
986 
987 
988 
988 
986 
987 
986 
987 
986 
986 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 
987 


PAGE. 

Ice  Cream,  pistachio,  made  with  almonds  988 

—  pumpernickel  rye  bread 987 

—  raspberries 987 

—  rice,  Paradise. 988 

—  rice,    with     citron     garnished     with 

truffles 988 

—  strawberries ,..  987 

—  truffle ,.  988 

—  vanilla  (Nos.  1  and  8) 988 

—  vanilla,    light,     milk    and     whipped 

cream  (No.  7) 989 

—  vanilla,  Roman,  syrup  and  cream  (No. 

6) 989 

—  vanilla,  snow,  Italian    meringue  and 

whipped  cream  (No.  5) 989 

—  vanilla,  with  cream  (No.  3) 988 

—  vanilla,  with  milk  and  cream  (No.  2).  988 

—  vanilla,  without  cream  or  milk  (No.  4).  989 

—  virgin  coffee 989 

—  virgin,  with  orange-flower  water 989 

—  virgin,  with  orange  flower  and  noyau.  989 

—  white  coffee 989 

—  with  almonds  or  nuts — fresh  or  dried.  990 

—  with  chestnuts,  boiled 991 

—  with  chestnuts,  roasted „.  990 

-—  with  eggs  and  black  coffee 990 

—  with  maraschino,  prunelle,  kirsch,  tea 

or  all  flower 990 

—  with  pignons,  Brazilian  nuts,  walnuts 

or  hazel-nuts 990 

—  without  cooking,  chocolate 991 

—  without  cooking,  chocolate  light. ....  991 

—  without  cooking,  coffee 991 

—  without  cooking,  lemon 991 

—  without  cooking,  orange-flower  water.  991 

—  without  cooking,  vanilla 991 

—  without  eggs,  light  with  black  coffee.  990 
Ices  (plate) 977 

—  compositions  frozen  by  machine  (Figs. 

611,612,  613) 979 

—  how  to  cook  the  cream  for 979 

—  how  to    freeze    by    hand    in    a  long 

covered  freezer  (Figs.  614,  615).. .  979 

—  how  to  freeze  by  hand  in  a  wide  un- 

covered freezer  (Fig.  616) 980 

—  machine  with  long  freezer  (Fig.  617)..  980 

—  manner  of  freezing,  Neapolitan  style 

(Fig.  618) 980 

—  -mold  and  freeze  small  ices  and  large 

ones  representing  figures 981 

—  pack  sorbetieres  or  freezers  in  ice,  to 

(Fig.  619) 981 

—  preliminary  remarks  on 977 

—  unmold  small  ices  and  figures,  how  to  981 

—  water  bottles,  how  to  freeze  (Fig.  620).  981 

—  water  socles,  plain,  colored  (Fig.  621).  982 

—  biscuits  iced,  a  la  d'Orleans  (Figs.  624, 

625) 883 

—  biscuits    iced,    cases,    how    to    make 

them  (Fig.  626) 9&3 

—  biscuits    iced,    Excelsior   (Figs.    622, 

623) 983 


1160 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Ices— 

—  biscuits  iced,  Diplomate 982 

—  biscuits  iced,  with  vanilla  and  straw- 

berry, melon-shaped  (Fig.  626). . .  984 

—  bomb,  a  la  Constantino  (Fig.  627) ....  984 

—  bomb,  a  la  Trobriand 984 

—  bomb,  Fifth  avenue 985 

—  bomb,  Printanier,  fruit 985 

—  bomb,  Roman 985 

—  bomb  streaked  with  black  coffee 985 

—  bomb  streaked  with  white  coffee 985 

—  bomb,  with  liquors 985 

—  Fiori  di  latte 991 

—  Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Bellini 991 

• —  Fiori  di  latte  a  la  Orlandini 991 

—  Fiori  di  latte,  with  burnt  almonds  and 

pistachios 992 

—  Fiori  di  latte,  with  vanilla  and  other 

flavorings 992 

—  Fiori  di  latte,  with  violets  (Fig.  628)  .  992 

—  mousse  a  la  Semiramis  (Fig.  629) 992 

—  mousse  a  la  Siraudin 992 

—  mousse,  chocolate 99b 

—  mousse,  coffee 993 

—  mousse,  fruit,  with  pineapple  or  other 

fruits 993 

—  mousse,  Italian 993 

—  mousse,  Italian,  the  pistachio 993 

—  mousse,  Italian,  the  strawberry 993 

—  mousse,  Italian,  the  vanilla 993 

—  mousse,  with  chestnuts 994 

—  mousse,  with  liquors 993 

—  mousse,  with  macaroons 993 

—  parfait,    excellent,  with  coffee    (Fig. 

631) 994 

—  parfait  of  nougat  (Fig.  630) 994 

—  parfait  of  nougat  with  almonds 994 

—  parfait,  with  coffee 994 

—  plombiere    a     la    Montesquieu    (Fig. 

632) 995 

—  plombiere  a  la  Richmond 995 

—  plombiere  a  la  Rochambeau 995 

—  plombiere  d'Alengon 996 

—  plombiere,  Havanese  style 996 

—  plombiere  with  cherries 996 

—  plombiere  with  chestnuts 996 

—  pudding,  banana  (Fig.  633) 997 

—  pudding,  biscuit 997 

—  pudding,  Cavour 997 

—  pudding,  Constance 997 

—  pudding,  Diplomat 998 

—  pudding,  Duchess 998 

—  pudding,  Fleury 998 

—  pudding,  Imperial,  rice. 998 

—  pudding,     Nesselrode,   with    candied 

chestnuts 998 

—  pudding,  plum  (Fig.  634) 999 

—  pudding.  Romanoff 999 

—  pudding,  Serano  (Fig.  635) 999 

—  pudding,  Sicilian 999 

—  pudding,  Waddington    1000 

—  punch  and  sherbet 1000 


Ices— 

—  punch,  Beatrice  (Fig.  636) 

—  punch,  Bouquetiere   (Figs.  637,  638, 

639) 

—  punch,  champagne  (Fig.  640) 

—  punch,  coffee,  granite  with  coffee. . . . 

—  punch,  cordial — iced 

• — punch,  Dolgorouski    (Figs.  641,  642). 

—  punch,  Elizabeth  (Fi^.  643) 

—  punch,  favorite  (Fig.  644) 

—  punch,  imperial  (Fig.  645) 

—  punch,  milk — iced  (Fig.  646) 

—  punch,  Montmorency  (Fig.  647) 

—  punch,  Nenuphar — lilies  (Fig.  648). . . 

—  punch,  Pargny 

—  punch,  Roman 

—  punch,  Siberian — Lalla  Rookh 

—  punch,  sunflower  (Fig.  649) 

—  punch,  Stanley  (Fig.  650) 

—  punch,  Tosca  (Fig.  651) 

—  punch,  Tremiere  (Fig.  652) 

—  sherbet,  American  (Fig.  653) 

—  sherbet,  Andalusian  (Figs.  654,    655, 

656> 

—  sherbet,  Californian  (Figs.  657,  658).. 

—  sherbet,  Mephisto  (Fig.  659) 

—  sherbet,  paradise 

—  sherbet,  parfait  amour  (Fig.  660) 

—  sherbet,  Paquerette  (Fig.  661) 

—  sherbet,  Rebecca  (Fig.  662) 

—  sherbet,  Venetian  (Fig.  663) 

—  sherbet,  young  America  (Fig.  664). . . . 

—  Sabayon  a  la  Canetti. ...   

— -  Sabayon  a  la  Denari 

—  souffles,  Alcazar — iced  (Fig.  665) 

—  souffles,  Favart 

—  souffles,  Palmyra 

—  spongade  a  la  Medicis  (Fig.  666) 

—  spongade  a  la  Parepa — cream..   

—  varied,  Alaska,  Florida  (Figs.  667,  668) 

—  varied,  Alexandria  (Fig.  669) 

—  varied,  asparagus  (Fig.  670) 

—  varied,  bananas  in  surprise  (Fig.  671) 

—  varied,  Blidah  (Fig.  672) 

—  varied,  caramel  bouchees  (Fig.  673).. 

—  varied,  cards  (Fig.  681) 

—  varied,  cauliflower,  with  marchioness 


—  varied,  Ceylon  with  coffee  (Fig.  674).. 

—  varied,  Charlotte  Corday  (Fig.  675). . . 

—  varied,  corn  (Fig.   676) 

—  varied,  Countess  Leda  (Fig.  677) 

—  varied,  cream,  Chateaubriand 

—  varied,  cream,  hazel-nut 

—  varied,  cream,  racahout 

—  varied,  cream,  Venus 

—  varied,  dice  (Figs.  678,  680) 

—  varied,  dominoes  (Fig.  679) 

—  varied,  eggs   a    la   Tremontaine,   red 

wine  sauce  (Fig.  682) 

—  varied,  Esmeralda  (Fig.  683) 

—  varied,  Frascati 


PAGE. 

1000 
1000 
1000 
1001 
1001 
1002 
1001 
1001 
1001 
1001 
1002 
1002 
1002 
1002 
1002 
1003 
1003 
1003 
1003 
1003 
1003 

1004 
1004 
1004 
1004 
1004 
1005 
1005 
1005 
1005 
1005 
1005 
1006 
1006 
1006 
1006 
1006 
1007 
1007 
1007 
1007 
1008 
1008 
1009 

1008 
1008 
1008 
1009 
1009 
1017 
1013 
1017 
1014 
1009 
1009 

1010 
1010 
1010 


INDEX. 


1161 


PAGE. 

Ices— 

—  varied,  fromage  glace  (Fig.  684) 1010 

—  varied,  harlequin  (Figs.  685,  686). .    .  1010 

—  varied.  Jardiniere  cutlets  (Fig.  687)..  1011 

—  varied.  La  Grandina  (Fig.  688) 1011 

—  varied,  lemons  in  surprise  (Fig.  689)..  1011 

—  varied,  Leona  (Fig.  690) 1012 

—  varied,  macedoine  croquettes 1012 

—  varied,  macedoine  of  fruits 1012 

—  varied,  Madeleine  (Fig.  692) 1012 

—  varied,  Madrilian. . . 1012 

—  varied,  marvelous  (Fig.  693) 1013 

—  varied,  Mignon  (Fig.  694) 1013 

—  varied,  Mokabelle 1013 

—  varied,    Montelimar    with     hazel-nut 

cream  (Fig.  695) 1013 

—  varied,  muffs  a    la    Dejazet,   Venus 

cream  (Fig.  696) . .  1014 

—  varied,  mushrooms  (Fig.  697) 1014 

—  varied,  Neapolitan  (Figs.  698,  699,  700)  1014 

—  varied,    oranges,    basket    filled   with 

(Fig.  701) 1015 

—  varied,  oranges,  Posilipo  (Fig.  702)..  1015 

—  varied,  Seville  and  macedoine  baskets  1015 

—  varied,  Parisian  (Fig.  703) 1015 

—  varied,    pears  or  apples   in  surprise 

(Fig.  704,  705) 1015 

—  varied,  potatoes  (Fig.  706) 1016 

—  varied,  Ribambelle 1016 

—  varied,  rice  a  la  Ristori  1016 

—  varied,  rice  with  maraschino 1016 

—  varied,  salpicon,  to  make 1017 

—  varied,  Sicilian 1016 

—  varied,  St.  Jacques  cups  (Fig.  691). . .  1012 

—  varied,  timbales,  Algerian 1016 

—  varied,  timbales,  Chateaubriand  (Fig. 

707) 1017 

—  varied,  tomatoes,  stuffed  (Fig.  708). . .  1017 

—  varied,  Toronchino  Procope  1018 

—  varied,  Tortoni  cups  (Fig.  709) 1018 

—  varied,  tutti  frutti  biscuits  (Fig.  710).  1018 

—  varied,  tutti  frutti  (Fig.  711) 1018 

—  varied,    Valence  cup,    with    peaches 

(Fig.  712) , 1018 

—  varied,    vermeil   globules   a  la  Dam- 

seaux  (Figs.  713,  714) 1018 

—  varied,  watermelon 1019 

—  large  pieces,  Bacchus  (Fig.  715) 1019 

—  large  pieces,  cantaloup  in  surprise.. ..  1019 

—  large  pieces,  cantaloup,  molded  (Fig. 

716) 1020 

—  large  pieces,  delicious  with  hazel-nuts 

(Fig.  717) 1020 

—  large  pieces,  fruit  basket  with  doves 

(Fig.  718) 1020 

—  large  pieces,    hen   with    chicks;  nest 

with  eggs  (Figs.  719,  720) 1021 

—  large  pieces,    pineapple   in    surprise 

(Fig.  721) 1022 

—  large  pieces,  pineapple,  molded 1022 

—  large  pieces,  rabbit  in   surprise  (Fig. 

722) 1022     4- 


PAGS. 
Ices— 

—  large  pieces,  swans  with  reeds  and 

rushes  (Fig.  723) 1023 

—  large  pieces,  the  helmet  (Fig.  724). . . .  1023 

—  large  pieces,  the  well  (Fig.  725) 1024 

—  large  pieces    turban    with   pineapple, 

strawberry  or  Sultana  (Fig.  726)..  1024 

—  large    pieces,     turban    with  vanilla, 

strawberry  1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  apricots. 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  barberries 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  cherries 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  currants 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  nectarines 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  peaches 1025 

—  water,  fresh  fruits,  pomegranates. . . .  1025 

—  water,  grape  fruit 1026 

—  water,    guanabana,    medlar,     melon, 

pear  or  plum 1025 

—  water,  how  to  prepare  and  finish 1025 

—  water,  lemon 1026 

—  water,  orange 1036 

—  water,  orange,  with  gelatine 1026 

—  water,  pineapple 1026 

—  water,  pineapple,  infused  in  syrup. . .  1026 

—  water,  raspberry 1026 

—  water,  strawberry 1026 

Iced  drinks 1027 

—  chocolate 1027 

—  coffee,  black 1027 

—  coffee,  brandy 1027 

—  coffee,  in  sherbet 1027 

—  coffee,  mixed , 1027 

—  gramolates  or  granite  with  orange.. . .  1027 

—  granite  in  water  bottles  with  currants, 

cherries,  pomegranates,  etc 1027 

—  grape  fruits  a  la  Madison 1027 

—  orange  punch,  Russian  style,  unfrozen 

cold  drinks  (Fig.  727) 1028 

Icing,  chocolate — cooked 194 

—  cocoa — cooked 194 

—  fruit  juice — uncooked 195 

—  royal,  and  flavored  with  zests 195 

—  with  syrup,  for  cakes  flavored  with 

vanilla,    orange,   lemon    or    fruit 

juices 195 

Indian  pickle,  with  fine  herbs 360 

Jam  (see  marmalade) 1052 

Jealousies  (see  cakes) 953 

Jelly,  apple 1051 

—  aspic,   to  prepare,   clarify  and  filter 

(Figs.  50,  51) 195 

—  Bar-le-duc 1053 

—  calf's  foot  with  Madeira  wine 196 

—  Californian  pineapple 918 

—  cherry  with  kirsch ...  1051 

—  chopped  and  sticky  (Figs.  505,  506, 

507) 767 

—  cranberry 1052 

—  currant !0?1 

—  currant,  plain 105J 


1162 


THE   EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Jelly,  currant,  with  apples  1052 

—  hatelets  (Figs.  501  to  507) 766 

—  macedoiue  with  champagne 919 

—  meat,  with  gelatine 196 

—  molds,  to  coat 181 

—  orange 1051 

—  orange,  in  cups 919 

—  quince 1052 

—  raspberry 919 

—  rose 919 

—  Russian 919 

—  strawberry 919 

—  sweet,  with  gelatine  or  fish  isinglass..  196 

—  Tunisian,  ribboned 919 

—  violet  (Fig.  591) 920 

—  wine  and  liquor 920 

—  with  fruits  and  kirsch 920 

Jerusalem  artichokes  a  la  Salamander 828 

Juice,  clear  grape 1052 

—  strawberry 1052 

—  to  filter  fruit 916 

Keep  subjects  or  pieces  of  confectionery, 

to 1031 

Kidneys,  lamb,  a  la  Lully 554 

—  lamb,  brochettes  of 554 

—  lamb,  Flemish  style 554 

—  lamb,  glazed 554 

—  lamb,  on  skewers 554 

—  lamb,  stewed  with  Madeira 554 

—  lamb,  with  mushrooms 554 

—  mutton,  a  la  Burtel 537 

—  mutton,  a  la  Soubise 538 

—  mutton,  on  skewers  (Fig.  341) 538 

—  mutton,  on  skewers,  Bordelaise  sauce.  538 

—  mutton,  on  skewers,  deviled 538 

—  mutton,  sauted  with  neurons 538 

—  veal,  a  1' Anderson 517 

—  veal,  a  la  Roederer 517 

—  veal,  with  marrow „ .  517 

—  veal,  with  white  wine 518 

Kingflsh  a  la  Bateliere  (Fig.  293) 443 

—  £  la  Bella 444 

—  a  la  Bordelaise 444 

—  a  la  Figaro 444 

—  a  la  Montgolfier 444 

—  a  la  Princelay 444 

—  a  la  Sultana 444 

—  baked 445 

—  boudins,  Poniatowski 678 

—  cutlets,  mayonnaise  mousseline 688 

—  fillets  a  la  Valengay  (Fig.  508) 767 

—  en  the  dish  with  gastrite 445 

Kitchen  utensils  (Figs.  115  to  197) 223 

Kohl-rabies,  housekeeper's  style 821 

—  stuffed 821 

Knlibiac,  Russian  383 

—  Smolenska 383 

Kwass 268 

Lady  fingers  (see  cakes)  (Fig.  609) 963 

Lafayette  cake  with  rum 953 

—  fish,  breaded,  English  style 445 

Lamb. . .  547 


PAGE. 

Lamb,  baron  of,  a  la  de  Rivas 547 

—  breasts,  baked   547 

—  breasts,  chopped  sauce 547 

—  breasts,  with  turnips 547 

—  breasts,  with  veloute  tomato  sauce — 

stuffed 547 

—  carbonade  a  la  Jardiniere 548 

—  carbonade  a  la  Rambuteau 548 

—  crows,  ravigote  sauce 548 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 548 

—  epigrammes  a  la  Toulouse 553 

—  epigraiumes,  Ancient  style 553 

—  escalops  a  la  Habirshaw 692 

—  fries,  cream  horseradish  sauce 553 

—  fries,  tomato  sauce 553 

—  hash  with  bananas 694 

—  haslets,  marinated 553 

—  head,  Genoese  or  vinaigrette  sauce. . .  554 

—  kidneys  (see  kidneys) 554 

—  leg  a  la  Bercy 555 

—  leg  a  la  Britannia — boiled 555 

—  leg  a  la  Fearing — kernel 555 

—  leg  a  la  Guyane — whole 555 

—  leg,  Blanquette  of 556 

—  leg,  caper  sauce — boiled 555 

—  leg,  green  sauce — boiled 555 

—  leg,  King's  pilau 55(5 

—  leg,  slices,  a  la  Dordogne „  556 

—  leg,  slices,  a  la  Previllot  (Fig.  348).. .  556 

—  leg,  steak,  plain,  maitre-d'hotel  (Figs. 

349,350) 556 

—  leg,  to  roast  in  the  oven 557 

—  leg  with  carrots 557 

—  leg  with  gravy,  roasted — yearling.. . .  557 

—  leg  with  puree  of  onions  with  cream..  557 

—  loin,  German  style — yearling 557 

—  loin  with  sauted  tomatoes 557 

—  minced  a  la  Rivera 557 

—  minion  fillets  a  la  Benoist 558 

—  minion  fillets  a  la  Landgrave 558 

—  minion  fillets  a  la  Lefort 558 

—  minion  fillets  as  venison 558 

—  minion  fillets,  cream  sauce 558 

—  minion  fillets  in  surprise 558 

—  minion  fillets,  Printaniere 559 

—  minion  fillets  with  shallot  sauce  and 

marrow — roasted  and  larded 559 

—  minion  fillets  with  truffles — sauted. . .  559 

—  neck  with  cabbage 559 

—  noisettes  of  shoulder,  Epicurean 559 

—  quarter  (fore)  with  stuffed  tomatoes — 

on  the  spit 560 

—  quarter  (hind),  mint  or  Colbert  sauce.  560 

—  rack,  Castillane  sauce — broiled 560 

—  rack  with  artichokes — sauted 560 

—  rack  with  puree  of  split  peas — larded 

and  roasted 560 

—  saddle    (double)   with   the    legs    and 

potato  croquettes 561 

—  saddle  (fore)  with  chestnuts 561 

—  saddle  (hind)  a  la  Brighton 561 

—  saddle  (hind)  a  la  Chanceliere .  561 


INDEX. 


H63 


PAGE. 

Lamb,  saddle  (hind)  a  la  Florentine 561 

—  saddle  (bind)  a  la  Paganini 561 

—  saddle  (hind)  a  la  Sanford 561 

—  saddle  (hind),  American  style 562 

—  saddle  (hind),  French  style  and  dress- 

ing   562 

-  saddle  (hind),  with  mashed  turnips — 

braised 562 

-     saddle  (hind)  with  gravy — roasted. . . .  562 

—  saddle  (hind;  with  puree  of   beans — 

slices 563 

—  shoulder  a  la  Benton 563 

—  shoulder  a  la  Dessaix 563 

—  shoulder  a  la  Gamier 563 

—  shoulder  with  cucumbers 563 

—  shoulder    with    glazed    vegetables — 

stuffed 564 

—  shoulder   with    puree   of  celery   and 

dressing — stuffed 564 

—  stewed,  Duglere — rack 564 

—  stewed,  Irish  style 565 

—  stewed,  Navarin 564 

—  stewed,  Parisian  style .  565 

—  stewed.  Peruvian  style 565 

—  stewed,  with  turnips 565 

—  sweetbreads  a  la  Financiere 565 

—  sweetbreads  a  la  Joinville 566 

—  sweetbreads  a  la  Sevigne 566 

—  tails  a  la  Conti 566 

—  tendrons  or  gristle  with  Robert  sauce 

—  broiled .  566 

—  tongues  with  olives 566 

—  trotters,  a  la  Bordelaise 566 

—  trotters  a  la  Bordelaise,  Wenberg. . . .  566 

—  trotters  a  la  Chantilly 567 

—  trotters  a  la  Didier 567 

—  trotters  a  la  poulette 567 

—  trotters  with  tarragon  gravy — stuffed 

and  broiled 567 

—  whole,  a  la  Theodora — hot  and  cold. .  567 

Lamprey  a  la  Rabelais 445 

Lard 196 

—  meats,  poultry  and  game,  to  (Figs.  56 

to  69) 197 

—  axunge 196 

—  veal  udder 197 

Larding1  pork,  to  prepare 197 

—  to  cut  fat  pork  for  (Figs.  52  to  55) 197 

Larks  a  la  Marechale 646 

—  broiled . .  646 

—  Perigueux  sauce — roasted 647 

—  with  rice 647 

Lazagnettes,  Philadelphia  style 866 

Legs  of  chickens  as  ducklings 768 

Lemons,  oranges,  figs,  blackberries .  361 

—  to  cut  in  various  manners  (Figs.  60, 

61) 198 

Lemonade.    1066 

—  with  syrup 1066 

Lentils  with  bacon 828 

Lettuces,  chopped  with  croutons 829 

—  stuffed  and  fried. . ,  829 


PAGE. 

Lettuces  with  half  glaze— stuffed 829 

—  with  thickened  gravy — braised .  829 

Limes,  preserved 1054 

Lobsters  and  spiny  lobsters  (Figs.    272, 

273) 408 

—  a  la  Bonnefoy 409 

—  a.  la  Bordelaise — small    408 

—  a  la  Bouloguaise 361 

—  a  la  Britannia 409 

—  a  la  Canaille 409 

—  a  la  Carlu — small 412 

—  a  ia  Creole 409 

—  a  la  Delmonico 411 

—  a  la  Duglere 409 

—  a  la  Fresne 410 

—  a  la  Gambetta 410 

—  a  la  Hervey 410 

—  a  la  Lawrence  410 

—  a  la  Maryland 410 

—  a  la  Monte  Carlo — small  tails 410 

—  a  la  Newberg 411 

—  a  la  Paul  Bert 411 

—  a  la  Ravigote 768 

—  a  la  Rougemont 412 

—  a  la  Stanley — tails ,    -  412 

—  American  style , . .  408 

—  cream  of 747 

—  cutlets    a  la    Shelly  or  with  cream 

sauce 688 

—  deviled — roasted 409 

—  dome,  garnished  with  small  cases  . . .  751 

—  in  a  border 768 

—  Printaniere  mayonnaise 361 

—  Provengal  style 411 

—  roasted  on  the  spit 411 

—  tails  in  their  shells  (Fig.  509) 769 

—  tails — stuffed  and  deviled 412 

—  with  cream 413 

—  with  mayonnaise 769 

Macaroni  a  la  Brignoli  866 

—  baked    866 

—  Neapolitan  style 866 

—  Parisian  style 866 

—  timbale  Milanese  of,  or  noodles  (Fig. 

571) 871 

—  with  cream  and  truffles 866 

—  with  game  puree 867 

—  (Mezzani  Grandi)  a  la  Cavallotti 867 

—  spaghetti  (see  spaghetti) 867 

Macaronicelli  a  la  Lucini 867 

Macaronade 920 

Macaroons  (see  cakes) 964 

Macedonia  a  la  Montigny 829 

—  Russian 361 

Mackerel,  fresh 445 

—  fillets,  Bonnefoy 446 

—  in  oil 361 

—  in  papers,  Mephisto 446 

—  maitre  d'hotel 446 

—  with  white  piquante  sauce 446 

—  salt   and   smoked,  cream   horseradisn 

sauce. . .  446 


THE 


PAGE. 

Mackerel,  smoked 361 

—  Spanish,  a  la  Perigord 446 

—  Spanish,  a  la  Viennet  (Fig.  294). .    ..  447 

—  Spanish,  with  crawfish — fillets 447 

—  Spanish,  with  gooseberries — stuffed. .  447 

—  Spanish,  with  green  peas 447 

Madeleines  and  Genoese  Madeleines 953 

—  Commercy 953 

—  with  ruin 953 

Malaga  raisins— stuffed  and  glazed 1035 

Marinade,  cooked 199 

-raw 199 

Market  list 21 

MarshalNey 921 

Marmalade  or  Jam,  apple 1052 

—  apple,  sour 955 

—  apricot  or  peach 1053 

—  fig 1053 

—  melon  and  orange 1053 

—  raspberry  and  strawberry 1057 

—  white  currant  (large),  Bar-le-duc  jelly  1053 

Marrow  squash  a  la  Parmesan 841 

Mars  cakes  (see  cakes) 954 

Maskinonge  a  la  Providence 449 

Matelote  a  la  Mariniere,  St.  Mande 447 

—  a  la  Talabasse 448 

—  of  canotiers 448 

—  of  carp,  miroir 448 

—  of  fishermen 448 

Materials  for  making  easy  sugar  pieces. . .  1033 

Mazarine  with  pineapple  and  kirsch 890 

Meringue,  Italian 204 

—  how  to  dress  (Fig.  62) 199 

Mincemeat 199 

Mirlitons  of  pears  a  la  Bienvenue 890 

— Rouen 954 

Mocha  cake 939 

—  sugar 939 

Mongrel  goose  or  duck — roasted. ... 609 

Mortadella  (Fig.  213) 365 

Mosaic,  with  cream 921 

Moscovite  of  strawberries 921 

Mossoganem 921 

Mousse  a  laBeluiout,  Costa,  Virginienne. .  383 

Mousseline,  Cardinal  (Fig.  223) 383 

—  chicken  forcemeat  for 191 

—  foies-gras  a  la  Dana 769 

—  game  forcemeat  for 192 

—  ham 383 

—  Isabella  (Fig  224) 384 

• —  kingfish  a  la  Briere 770 

—  lobster  (Fig.  510) 770 

—  marechale  (Fig.  225) 384 

—  pheasant,  princesse  (Fig.  511) 771 

-pullet  (Fig.  512) 771 

~  Richmond  (Fig.  226) 384 

—  Robertson— ham  (Fig.  227) 384 

—  salmon  forcemeat  for 192 

—  Wa'esky  (Fig.  228) 384 

—  white  game  a  la  Medicis  (Fig.  229). . .  384 

—  woodcock  (Fig.  230) 385 

—  woodcock  (Fig.  513) 771     Jf. 


PAGE. 

Mousseline,  young  rabbit 385 

Mousses  (see  ices) 992 

Mullets  with  d'Antin  sauce 448 

Munich  with  peaches 890 

M  n slum-Ion  and  cantaloupe 361 

Mushrooms  a  la  Dumas — oronges 830 

—  a  la  Raynal — mousserons  (Fig.  549). .  830 

—  a  la  Rivera — morils 830 

—  crusts,  and  with  truffles — mousserons  830 

—  Sauted    in     thickened   butter — mous- 

serons    831 

—  served  under  a  glass   cover,  and  with 

cream  (Fig.  550) 831 

—  stuffed  in  cases  with  Madeira —  mous- 

serons    831 

—  stuffed   and   glazed   with    chaudfroid 

(Fig.  496) 762 

—  to  turn,  channel  and  flute 199 

Mussels  (Fig.  274) 413 

—  a  la  mariniere 413 

—  a  la  poulette 413 

• — a  la  Villeroi 414 

—  stuffed  a  la  Toulousaine 414 

—  to  prepare ...  413 

—  with  fine  herbs — baked 414 

—  with  shallot 414 

Mutton,  American  cuts  (Fig.  334) 531 

—  breast,  plain 531 

—  breast,   tomato,    Andalusian    sauce — 

stuffed 531 

—  breast,  tendon  and  shoulder,  Navarin  531 

—  breast,  with  turnips — haricot  of 532 

—  carbonade  a  la  Juvigny  (Fig.  335)  . .  532 

—  chops  and  cutlets — plain  (Fig.  336). ..  532 

—  chops,  Soyer  (Fig.  337) 532 

—  chops,  tavern  style  (Fig.  338) 533 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 533 

—  double,  baron  or  saddle — roasted  (Fig. 

340) 535 

—  ears  a  la  Westphalian 536 

—  epigrammes  a  la  Jardiniere 536 

—  fillets  a  1'Alexandre 536 

—  fillets,  grenadins,  poivrade  sauce....  536 

—  fillets,  noisettes  Provencal  style 537 

—  fillets,  noisettes,  glazed  536 

—  fillets,  noisettes  with  cooked  fine  herbs  537 

—  fillets,  paupiettes  a  la  Delussan 537 

—  fillets,  slices,  maitre-d'hotel 537 

—  fillets,  whole,    with  Greek   ravioles — 

larded 537 

—  kidneys  (see  kidneys) 537 

—  leg,  a  la  Bordelaise 538 

—  leg,  a  la  Bourdaloue 539 

—  leg,  a  la  Bourgeoise 539 

—  leg,  a  la  Chipolata 539 

—  leg,  a  la  Garrison 768 

—  leg,  a  la  Reglain 539 

—  leg,  a  la  Roederer 540 

—  leg,  boiled,  Grainville 540 

—  leg.  boiled,  with  caper  sauce 540 

—  leg,  boiled  with  mashed  turnips 540 

—  leg,  kernel,  a  la  Milanaise 540 


1165 


PAGE. 

Mutton,  leg,  kernels,  in  papers 540 

—  leg,  minced,  a  la  Lyonnese 540 

—  leg,  on  the  spit 541 

—  leg,  Parisian  style,  in  the  oven 541 

—  leg,  with  puree  of  beans 541 

—  leg,  with  rice     541 

—  loin,  roasted  on  the  spit  or  in  the  oven  541 

—  loin,  with  puree  of  carrots 542 

—  neck,   jugged   and   marinated,  thick- 

ened with  blood 542 

—  paunch,  Scotch  Haggis 542 

—  pie,  Canadian 713 

—  pilaff,  French  style  (Fig.  342) 542 

—  quarter,  with  gastronome  potatoes . . .  542 

—  rack  with  small  roots  (Fig.  343) 543 

—  saddle,  Duchess  style 543 

—  saddle,  German  style 543 

—  saddle,  Piedmontese  style  543 

—  saddle,  Printaniere 543 

—  saddle,  roasted  on  the  spit  (Fig.  344). .  543 

—  saddle,  with  glazed  roots — braised. . .  544 

—  saddle  or  baron  with  mashed  potatoes 

— in  the  oven  (Fig.  345) 544 

—  shoulder,  marinated  with  cream  sauce  544 

—  shoulder  with  potatoes 545 

—  shoulder,  with  rice 545 

—  shoulder,  with  turnips 545 

—  tails,  with  olives 545 

—  tenderloin,  a  la  Henry  Clay 772 

—  tendons,  with  mushrooms 545 

—  tongues,  ecarlate,  with  spinach 546 

—  tongues,  Neapolitan  style 546 

—  trotters  a  la  poulette.    546 

—  trotters  a  la  vinaigrette 546 

Noisettes  (see  beef) 493 

Noodles  a  la  Lauer 868 

—  baked 868 

—  sauted  in  butter 868 

—  timbale  of,  a  la  Pearsall 871 

—  with  fried  bread- crumbs 868 

Nougat,  brown 1033 

—  brown,  for  center  pieces 1033 

—  of  apricots  (see  cakes) 954 

—  Parisian 1034 

—  pistachio 1034 

—  soft  and  hard 1049 

—  white 1034 

—  white,  hard 1049 

—  white,  soft 1049 

Okra   or  gumbo,   garnished   with    barley 

bechamel  croustades 832 

Olives,    crescent    or    Lucques,    Spanish, 

Queen,  black,  verdales  (Fig.  208).  361 

—  stuffed  with  anchovy  butter 361 

—  stuffed  with  anchovies 361 

—  to  stone  (Fig.  63) 200 

Omelet  a  la  Andrews  855 

—  Argentine  (Fig.  565) 852 

—  bacon 852 

—  beef  palate  or  lamb's  trotters 853 

—  Bertini 853 

—  Bonvalet. .  853 


PAGE. 
Omelet,  cheese,  with  crusts  and  fondue — 

Swiss  or  Parmesan , 853 

—  chicken  liver 853 

—  clams — hard  or  soft 853 

—  cream,  plain 853 

—  Desjardins 853 

—  Duxelle  or  cooked  fine  herb 853 

—  fine  herb — raw 854 

—  frog 854 

—  German  style 854 

—  green,    with   fine  herbs,  spinach    or 

with  sorrel  crusts 854 

—  ham  and  green  peas 854 

—  Havanese 854 

—  herring — smoked 854 

—  Hunter's 855 

—  kidney 855 

—  mushroom  or  sweetbread 855 

—  onion  and  ham 855 

—  oyster 855 

—  parsley 855 

—  physiological 856 

—  sausage 856 

—  shrimp 856 

—  Spanish 856 

—  sorrel 854 

—  truffle 856 

—  with  caviare  a  la  Stoeckel 855 

—  Celestine — sweet 890 

—  Celestine  with  whipped  cream — sweet.  890 

—  Frangipane — sweet 891 

—  rum — sweet 891 

—  souffle,  ancient  style — sweet 891 

—  souffle,  light — sweet t . . .  891 

—  souffle,  with  almonds — sweet 891 

—  souffle,  with  apples — sweet 892 

—  souffle,  with  macaroons — sweet 892 

—  souffle,  with  preserves — sweet 892 

—  souffle,  with  vanilla — sweet 892 

—  stuffed   with  preserves  and  glazed — 

sweet 892 

—  stuffed  with  strawberries — sweet  (Fig. 

577) 893 

—  with  fruits,  meringued — sweet 893 

—  with  puree  of  spinach — sweet 893 

—  with  russet  apples — sweet 893 

Onions    boiled,    Hollandaise    or  Soubise 

sauce 832 

—  braised 832 

—  stuffed,  white  or  Bermuda 832 

Orange  or  lemon  peel,  preserved 1054 

—  punch,  Russian  style 1028 

-  salads 1056 

—  salads  with  apples 1056 

—  stewed 1056 

Orangeade 1066 

Ornaments  for  cold  desserts 922 

—  aigrettes 922 

—  hatelets 922 

—  tufts 922 

—  voluptes 922 

Oxtails  a  la  Castellane 474 


1166 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Oxtails  a  la  Chipolata 474 

—  Alsatian  style 475 

—  fried 475 

—  Hochepot 475 

—  with  vegetables 475 

Oysters  (Figs.  275,  276) 414 

—  a  la  Bearnaise.  toraatoed 415 

—  a  la  bechamel  with  truffles 417 

—  a  la  Boucicault 415 

—  a  la  Hollandaise 417 

—  a  la  Pompadour — risolettes 415 

—  a  la  Rubino 415 

—  a  la  Viennaise 417 

—  a  la  Villeroi 415 

—  baked,  a  la  Crane 415 

—  brochettes  with  truffles 415 

—  broiled,  maitre  d'hotel 416 

—  broiled,  on  skewers 416 

—  crabs,  (see  crabs) 402 

—  crabs,  pickled 362 

—  fricasseed,  or  a  la  poulette 417 

—  fried  a  la  Horly 416 

—  fried  with  butter  or  lard 416 

• —  in  aspic 725 

—  on  crusts  ., 416 

—  on  half  shell  and  Little  Neck  clams. .  862 

—  Philadelphia  style 416 

—  pickled 362 

—  steamed  and  on  toast 417 

—  stuffed  a  la  Mornay 417 

—  stuffed  and  fried 417 

—  tartare 362 

—  to  poach 417 

—  with  curry,  Indian  style 418 

—  with  fine  herbs 418 

—  with  Parmesan,  fried  in  oil 418 

Oyster  plant  or  salsify  a  la  poulette 840 

—  fried 840 

—  sauted 840 

"  Pain"  of  apricots 922 

—  of  bananas,  Havanese 922 

—  of  capon  with  tarragon — small 772 

—  of  chestnuts  a  la  Beotic  (Fig.  592). . .  922 

—  of  chicken   a   1'ecarlate — small   (Fig. 

514)    772 

—  of  chicken  a  la  Freycinet — small. . . .  773 

—  of  chicken  a  la  Villas 696 

—  of  crawfish,  Chartreuse  (Fig.  424) 696 

—  of  game  a  la  Bartholdi  (Fig.  515). ...  773 

—  of  game,  Diana  (Fig.  516) 775 

—  of  liver  with  salpicon 776 

—  of  partridges  a  la  Montgomery  (Fig. 

517) 776 

—  of  pheasant  with  cream 696 

—  of  pike 697 

—  of   strawberries   with    cream  —  small 

(Fig.  593) 923 

—  of  young  rabbit 777 

—  of  young  rabbit — a  la  Maintenon. . . .  697 

Palms  (see  cakes) 954 

Palmettes  (Fig.  231) 385 

—  Junot  . .  385 


Palmettes  of  fat  livers,  Delmontes „ 

—  of  Guinea  fowl  and  wild  duck,  Pala- 

dio 

—  of  ham  a  1'Aquitane 

—  of  hare  and  young  rabbit,  Polish. . . . 

—  of  pheasants  a  la  Torrens 

—  of  pullet  or  capon,  Clinton 

—  of  quails  or  partridges,  African. ..... 

—  of  snipe  with  truffles  a  la  Osborn ..... 

—  of  turkey  a  la  Bearnaise 

—  Perier 

—  Primatice 

—  Varsovian 

Panada,  cream  Frangipane 

—  of  flour   and   milk,  bread-crumb   and 

pate-a-chou 

—  wheat  and  rice  flour 

Pancakes  a  la  Dejazet 

—  a  la  Rossini,  uieringued 

—  corn 

—  German 

—  peach  marmalade,  macedoine 

—  sticks,  Royeaux 

—  with  brown  sugar — light 

—  with  orange  flower  water — large 

—  with  preserves — light 

Paper  ruffles  and  frills 

Parfaits  (see  ices)    

Parsley    bouquet,   in    branches,  fried  or 

chopped  

Parsnip  cakes  fried  in  butter 

Partridges  a  la  Baudrimont 

—  a  la  Chartreuse 

—  a  la  Marly , 

—  a     la     Matignon,      garnished      with 

"  pains  "  a  la  Montglas 

—  a  la  Soyer 

—  boned  and  sliced  in  Bellevue 

—  boned  a  la  Clementine  (Fig.  487) 

• —  braised  a  la  Moliere 

—  breasts  or  fillets  a  la  Jules  Verne  (Fig. 

400) 

—  breasts  or  fillets  a  la  Lucullus 

—  breasts  or  fillets  a  la  Veron 

—  breasts  or  fillets,  Giraldi 

—  broiled,  Colbert  sauce 

—  broiled,  English  style 

—  minced 

—  minced,  with  rice 

—  roast,   larded 

—  salmis  of 

—  truffled  and  roasted 

—  with  cabbage 

—  with  gravy  and   water-cress — larded 

and  roasted 

—  with  olives 

—  with  sauerkraut 

Pasle  (see  Elementary  Methods)..   

—  almond  candied 

—  almond,  for  fancy  cakes 

—  almond,  with  cooked  sugar 

—  almond,  with  egg-yolks. .  ,  , 


PAGE. 
386 


200 
832 
649 
649 
650 

650 
650 
756 
755 
650 

647 
648 
648 
647 
651 
647 
649 
649 
777 
649 
651 
651 

651 
652 
652 
201 
1034 
201 
201 
201 


INDEX. 


1167 


PAGE. 

Paste,  almond,  with  gum  tragacanth 201 

—  almond,  with  pistachios 201 

—  apple  1053 

—  apricot 1053 

—  Baba 201 

-  Brioche 202 

—  chestnut  1053 

—  cooked,  for  fanciful  borders 202 

—  cream  cake  (Pate-a-chou) 202 

—  dressing 202 

—  English,  for  borders 203 

—  filbert,  with  cooked  sugar 201 

—  fine 203 

—  flawn 203 

—  foundation 203 

—  f rolle    203 

—  frying  batters 203 

—  gum 1034 

—  macaroon 204 

—  marchpane,  with  orange-flower  water  204 

—  meringue,  plain 204 

—  meringue,  Italian,  with  cooked  sugar.  204 

—  Milan 204 

—  noodle,  for  borders 204 

—  office... 204 

—  peach 1053 

—  pie— cold 204 

—  pie— hot, 205 

—  puff  and  half  puff  (Figs.  64,  65,  66).. .  205 

—  quince 1053 

—  Raviole 206 

—  repere,  for  fastening 204 

—  Savarin 206 

—  short 203 

—  sweet 203 

—  tart 206 

—  timbale 206 

Patties  a  1'Andalouse— bouchees  (Fig.  232)  387 

—  a  la  Reine — bouchees 387 

—  clam — bouchees 388 

—  crab — bouchees 387 

—  crawfish — bouchees 387 

—  game  puree — bouchees . .  387 

—  lobster — bouchees 387 

—  mushroom,  fresh — bouchees 387 

—  mussel — bouchees 388 

—  oyster — bouchees 388 

—  oyster  crab — bouchees 387 

—  puff  paste,  Cracovian — small  (Fig  233)  388 

—  puff   paste,    of   veal     Godiveau   with 

chives — small 388 

—  puff  paste,  Mazarin — small 388 

—  puff  paste,  salmon — small 389 

-  puff  paste,  St.  Hubert — small 388 

—  scallop — bouchees 388 

—  shrimp — bouchees , .  387 

-  small  puff  (Figs.  67,  68,  69) 206 

—  sweetbread,  French  style — bouchees.  388 

—  Turbigo — bouchees 388 

—  Victoria — bouchees 388 

—  with  salpicon  of  foies-gras 388 

—  with  salpicon,  Moritglas 388 


PAGB. 

Patties,  with  salpicon,  Regence 388 

—  with  salpicon  Royal 388 

Patty  a  la  Palmerston — large 697 

—  a  la  Richelieu — large  (Fig.  425) 698 

—  quail — small 698 

—  reedbirds — large 698 

—  sweetbreads  a  la  McAllister — large.. .  699 
Peaches  a  la  Lou voisienne 923 

—  brandied 1050 

—  Colbert 895 

—  Conde 896 

—  meringued 896 

—  preserved  whole — large 1054 

—  Richelieu 896 

—  Stevens 896 

—  stewed 1057 

Peacock,  roasted,  adorned  with  its  plum- 
age    777 

Pears,  alligator 355 

—  canned 1050 

—  Ferriere ,  897 

—  Lombarde,  stuffed 897 

—  preserved 1055 

Peas,  green,  a  la  fleurette 827 

—  green,  French  style 827 

—  green,  French  style  with  sugar 827 

—  green,  housekeeper's  style 827 

Parisian  style — small 828 

puree 828 

with  braised  lettuce 828 

with  shredded  lettuce 828 

Perch,  Polish  style  (Fig.  295) 449 

—  stuffed  and  baked 449 

—  Valois  sauce — boiled 449 

—  with    parsley  water,  celerv  root   and 

parsnips 449 

Peppers,  green,  or  red 362 

—  green,  stuffed 832 

—  sweet,  sauted 832 

Pheasant  (Fig.  401) 652 

—  adorned    with   their  own   plumage — 

roasted 653 

—  a  la  Montebello 653 

—  a  la  Perigueux 654 

—  boned,  a  la  Lorenzo 757 

—  boned,  cut  up 757 

—  breasts  or  fillets  with  truffles 652 

—  cutlets  a  la  Reginald 688 

—  cutlets  in  chaudfroid  (Figs.  481,  482).  749 

—  escalops  with  olives 692 

—  minced 649 

—  salmis  a  la  Lorenzo 653 

—  stuffed,  a  la  Prince  Orloff 778 

—  truffled — roasted 654 

—  with  truffles — larded 654 

Pickerel,   tomato   Andalouse   sauce  (Fig. 

296) 450 

Pie  (see  tarts) 712 

—  a  la  Bontoux — large 699 

—  apple 923 

—  apple,  peach  or  rhubarb — hot 897 

—  beef,  a  la  Perez 712 


—  green. 

—  g/een, 

—  green, 

—  green, 


1168 


THE 


Pie,  chicken,  a  la  Manhattan. . 

—  chicken,  a  la  Rigolo 

—  chicken,  Australian  style. 

—  chicken,  to  be  cut  up 

—  cocoanut.  . 


—  cream 

—  duckling,  a  la  Rouennaise 

—  eel  (Fig.  426) 

—  fat  liver,  Alsatian— large  (Fig.  427). . 

—  foies  gras  in  cradle,  to  be  cut  in  slices. 

—  game,  dressed  a  la  Lesage 

—  goose,  a  la  Adolphe  Hardy — fillets. . . 

—  goose  liver  (Fig.  518; 

—  goose  liver,  cut  up 

—  ham 

—  hare,  in  A  dish 

—  hare,  without  a  mold 

—  lamb — loin 

—  lamb  minion  fillets,  a  la  Manning. . . . 

—  lemon  custard,  Venetian  style 

—  lobster,  a  la  Herault 

—  marrow,  Frangipane — hot 

—  mince — hot 

—  mutton,  leg  of,  Canadian 

—  oyster,  Smith  style 

—  pigeon,  a  la  Britannia 

—  plover — large 

—  pork  liver,  or  terrine 

—  pork,  loin  of,  English  style 

—  pumpkin 

—  quail 

—  rabbit,  with  fine  herbs 

—  rhubarb 

—  rhubarb,  with  cream 

—  salmon 

—  small  (patties),  with  gravy  (Fig.  428). 

—  snipe 

—  Strasburg  liver  (Fig.  519) 

—  veal ,  a  la  Dickenson 

—  veal  and  ham 

—  woodcock — cold 

—  woodcock — hot 

Pig,  division  of  a  (Fig.  351) 

—  feet  a  la  St.  Menehould 

—  feet,  broiled 

—  feet,  truffled 

—  feet  with  truffles,  Perigord 

—  head 

—  head  with  puree  of  split  green  peas. . 

—  suckling,  a  la  Piedmontese. . .    

—  suckling,  boned 

—  suckling,    roasted     on    the    spit     or 

stuffed 

—  suckling,    salted    and    smoked,  with 

sauerkraut 

—  tongues.  Proven  gal  style 

Pigeons  a  la  Chartreuse 

—  a  la  Lombardy — poeled 

—  a  la  Valenciennes 

—  and  squabs  (wild)  poupeton,  Ancient 

style 

—  boned  . . 


PAGE. 

712 
712 
713 
778 
924 
924 
778 
699 
700 
752 
779 
779 
781 
782 
780 
780 
781 
781 
713 
924 
713 
897 
898 
713 
713 
714 
700 
777 
714 
924 
783 
714 
924 
924 
783 
700 
783 
782 
714 
784 
784 
701 
671 
573 
573 
573 
573 
784 
576 
578 
758 

579 

579 
580 
615 
616 
616 

654 

758 


PAGE. 
Pigeons,  garnished  with  Montglas  cases — 

stuffed  (Fig.  379) 616 

—  Huntress  style — breasts 617 

—  Monarch  style — smothered 617 

—  pie  a  la  Britannia 714 

—  potted 617 

—  pourpeton 654 

—  Printaniere  style 617 

—  stewed 618 

—  with  crawfish 618 

—  with  green  peas 618 

—  with  olives— breasts  (Fig.  380) 618 

Pike,  with  hazel-nut  butter  sauce 451 

Pike  perch  a  la  Durance 450 

—  a  la  Financiere 450 

—  a  la  Geraldin 450 

—  a  la  Royale 450 

—  Continental  style — fillets 451 

—  Russian  style 450 

Pilau  of  beef  a  la  Reglain 495 

—  of  chicken 597 

—  of  mutton,  French  style 542 

—  of  Turkish  style— soup 277 

Pineapple,  canned 1051 

—  Carolina 898 

—  preserved 1055 

—  stewed 1057 

—  with  rice  and  cream  (Fig.  578) 898 

PlombiSres  (see  ices) 995 

Plover  (Fig.  392) 639 

—  a  la  Dumanoir — bustard 656 

—  a  la  Montauban 655 

—  a  la  Stoughton 655 

—  a  la  Parny — breasts 655 

—  a  la  Victor  Hugo — breasts 655 

—  broiled 655 

—  golden,  grass   and   bustard   (observa- 

tions)    654 

—  roasted 655 

—  roasted  a  la  Martel — larded 655 

—  salmis  a  la  Duclair — yellow  leg 656 

Poach     quenelles,    small     timbales     and 

mousselines,  to 207 

Poeler  meats,  to 173 

Polenta 868 

Ponipano  a  la  Anthelme 451 

—  a  la  Carondelet 451 

—  a  la  Duclair 451 

—  a  la  Macedoine 452 

—  a  la  Mazarin 452 

—  a  la  Potentini     452 

—  a  la  Soya 452 

—  a  la  Toulouse 452 

—  fried  with  tomato  sauce — fillets 452 

Porgies  a  la  Manhattan 453 

—  paupiettes,  Hindostan 453 

—  with  Chablis  wine 453 

Pork,  American  cuts   and   divisions  (Fig. 

351) 571 

—  bacon,  smoked,  with  spinach,  English 

style 569 

—  black  blood  pudding 569 


INDEX. 


1169 


Pork,  breast,  with  cabbage  —  salted  ....... 

—  chine  a  ia  Parmentier  ............... 

—  chitterlings  of  Troyes,  ingredients  and 

to  cook  ..........    ............. 

—  cutlets  a  1'  Aurora  ................... 

—  cutlets  and  chops,  plain  and  Castillane 

—broiled  ..................... 

—  cutlets  half  glaze  ................. 

—  cutlets  with  apples  ........  .  ........ 

—  cutlets  with  apple  croquettes  ........ 

—  cutlets  with  cooked  fine  herbs  ....... 

—  cutlets  with  gravy,  Robert  or  gherkin 

sauce  —  breaded  ................ 

•  —  cutlets  with  mashed  potatoes  —  hashed. 

—  feet  (see  pig)  ....................... 

—  ham  (see  hams)  ..................... 

—  head  .............................. 

—  head  with  puree  of  split  green  peas.  . 

—  kernel  a  la  Cavour  and  with  noodles 

—sliced    ....................... 

—  kernel  of  ham  a  la  Biarritz  .......... 

—  loin  a  la  Reglain  .................... 

—  quarter  Valenciennes  ................ 

—  rack,      crown-shaped,      with      small 

onions  ....................... 

—  rack,  on  the  spit  .................... 

—  rack,  with  stuffed  peppers  .......... 

—  sausages,  Chipolata  .......   ........ 

—  sausages,  gastronome  ............... 

—  sausages  in  bags  .................... 

—  sausages  with  cream  potatoes  —  baked. 

—  sausages  with  tomato,  Soubise  sauce  — 

flat  ..........................    . 

—  sausages  with  truffles  ............... 

—  sausages  with  white  wine  —  long  ..... 

—  spare  ribs,  Parisian  style  ............ 

—  suckling  pig  (see  suckling  pig)  ....... 

—  tenderloin  a  la  minute  —  minced  ..... 

—  tenderloin  a  la  Printaniere  .......... 

—  tenderloin,  blanquette  .............. 

—  tenderloin,  escaloped  with  mushrooms 

or  truffles  ....................... 

—  tenderloin,  marinated  ............... 

—  tenderloin,  pimentade  sauce  ......... 

—  tenderloin,    roasted,    broiled    inaitre- 

d'liotel  ......................... 

—  tenderloin,  sauted  half  glaze  ........ 

—  tenderloin    with     puree    of    celery  — 

breaded  ....................... 

—  tongues  a  la  Provencal  .............. 

—  Zampino,  Modena  style,   with   string 

beans—  stuffed  (Fig.  352)  ......... 

Potatoes,  Anna  (Fig.  551)  ............... 

—  baked  ............................. 

—  Biarritz—  baked  .................... 

—  Bignon  ............................ 

—  boiled,  English  style  ...............  . 

—  boiled  in  their  skins  or  peeled  ....... 

—  boiled.  Persillade  balls  .............. 

—  Bordelaise  —  new  ................. 

—  broiled,  with  fried  bread  raspings.  .  .  . 

—  Bussy  ............................ 


PAGE. 
569 
569 

570 

570 


579 

580 
580 

580 

580 

580 
580 

581 
833 
833 
833 
833 
833 
833 
833 
834 
834 
834 


PAGE. 

Potato  cakes 834 

—  cakes  with  ham 834 

—  chiffonade 362 

—  chopped,  with  cream,  and  baked 834 

—  cream  of  834 

—  croquettes,  in  surprise  and  Mai'sienne.  835 

—  Dauphine , . . .  835 

—  Duchess 835 

—  fried  and  channeled 835 

—  fritters .  836 

—  gastronome 836 

—  half  glaze 835 

—  Hollandaise,    with   melted   butter   or 

Hollandaise  sauce 836 

—  housekeeper's  style 836 

—  Julienne  or  straw 836 

—  Long  Branch  (Fig.  552) 836 

—  Lyonnese 836 

—  maitre-d'hotel , 836 

—  marchioness 837 

—  Marshal 836 

—  mashed  (Fi#.  554) 837 

—  mashed — baked 837 

—  mashed,  in  snow  (Fig.  553) 837 

—  mashed,  in  puree 837 

—  mellow 837 

—  Parisienne 835 

—  Pont  Neuf 837 

—  Provengal 837 

—  Sarah  (Fig.  555) 838 

—  Saratoga  (Fig.  556) 838 

—  sauted 838 

—  sauted,  with   artichoke   bottoms  and 

truffles 838 

—  shape  of  an  omelet,  in  the  838 

—  shavings  (Fig.  557) 838 

—  souffled 838 

—  surprise,  in , 839 

—  tartlets 839 

—  timbale  a  la  Parmentier 839 

—  Viennese 839 

—  with  minced  truffles 839 

Potatoes,  sweet,  boiled 842 

—  broiled 843 

—  croquettes 842 

—  roasted 842 

—  souffled 842 

—  with  lobster  coral 842 

Potted  tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Nelson 701 

Poulpetonnie're  of  pigeons 701 

Poultry 583 

—  to  bone 170 

Pound  cake  (see  cakes) 940 

Ponpelin. 898 

Poupeton,  Ancient  style,  or  wild  pigeons 

or  squabs 654 

Pousse  cafe" 1067 

Prairie  hen  (Fig.  394) 639 

—  a  la  Tzarina— breasts  (Fig.  398) 643 

Preserved  fruits  and  fresh,  coated  with 

caramel 1055 

—  coated  with  grained  sugar 1055 


1170 


THE    EPIOTTREAM 


PAGE. 

Preserved  grapes 1055 

—  quartered  oranges 1055 

—  greengages 1053 

—  lemon  peel 1054 

—  limes 1054 

—  orange  peel 1054 

—  peaches — large,  whole 1054 

—  pears 1055 

—  quinces 1055 

Press  meats,    galantines,    breasts,    sweet- 
breads, etc.  (Figs.  70,  71) 207 

Prunes,  stewed 1057 

Ptarmigan  (Fig.  395) 639 

—  prairie  hen  or  goose — broiled 643 

Pudding    (meat),   beef    tenderloin    with 

oysters 701 

—  lamb  a  la  Gladstone 702 

—  thrush 702 

—  woodcock 702 

—  Yorkshire 354 

Pudding  (sweet — cold),  Boissy 925 

—  Castellane 925 

—  Harrison 925 

—  Lafayette 925 

—  Ministerial ....  925 

—  Renaissance 926 

—  Valois 926 

Pudding  (sweet — hot)  a  la  Benvenuto. . .  899 

—  a  la  Bradley 899 

—  a  la  de  Freese 900 

—  Cabinet,  a  la  Royale 899 

—  Cabinet,  with  Sabayon 900 

—  Countess 900 

—  Franklyn 900 

—  Humboldt 901 

—  Italian 901 

—  mellow,  apricot  sauce 899 

—  peach,  a  la  Cleveland  (Figs.  579,  580).  901 

—  plum,    St.     George,    frothy     vanilla 

sauce  (Figs.  581,  582) 902 

—  Plumerey 902 

—  rice,  a  la  Bagration 903 

—  rice,  fruit  sauce 903 

—  Saxony— scuffled 903 

—  Schiller 903 

—  Scotch 903 

—  Spanish 904 

—  Tyrolean 904 

—  with  almonds— light  (Fig.  583) 904 

—  with  burnt  almonds — souffled 905 

—  with  hazel-nuts — souffled 905 

Pullet  a  la  Arco  Valley 619 

—  a  la  Dame  Blanche .  619 

—  a  la  Demidoff 619 

—  a  la  Leondise 619 

—  a  la  Lester  Wallack 620 

—  a  la  Martiniere 620 

—  a  la  Mornay 620 

—  a  la  Nantua 620 

—  a  la  Pengord.    620 

—  a  la  Printaniere — glazed 620 

—  a  la  Seymour 621 


PAQE. 

Pullet  a  la  Villars 621 

—  a  la  Zingara  621 

—  ancient  style ; 621 

—  blanquette  with  mushrooms 624 

—  breasts  a  la  Montmorency  (Fig.  383). .  624 

—  breasts  a  la  Montpensier  (minion  fillets)  625 

—  breasts  a  la  Varsovian 625 

—  breasts  a  la  Visconti 625 

—  breasts  with  macedoine  (minion  fillets)  625 

—  English  style 621 

—  Egyptian  style — broiled 621 

—  in  surprise  (Fig.  381) 621 

—  ivory  with  decorated  quenelles 622 

—  larded,  with  jelly  (Fig.  520) 784 

—  legs  a  la  Bayounaise 626 

—  legs,  deviled 626 

—  legs,  with  new  carrots 626 

—  modern  style 622 

-  Parisian  style— stuffed  (Fig.  382) 622 

—  tartar  sauce — broiled 623 

—  truffled— roasted 623 

—  with  croustades  Financiere 623 

—  with  mussels 623 

—  with  oysters 623 

—  with  ravioles 624 

—  with  water  cress — roasted 624 

Pumpkin,  fried  in  small  sticks 839 

Punch  and  sherbet  (see  ices) 1000 

—  champagne 1066 

—  claret 1066 

—  Claudius 1067 

—  rum 1066 

—  wine,  hot .    ..  1067 

Purges  (see  garnishings) 343 

Purslaiu  a  la  Barbancon — green  or  golden  840 

Pyramid  of  crawfish  (Fig.  521) 785 

—  of  crustaceans  a  la  Rochelaise 785 

—  of  meringues 926 

quail  (Fig.  391) 639 

—  a  la  Caprea    656 

—  a  la  macedoine — larded 656 

—  a  la  mirepoix 657 

—  a  la  Talleyrand — breasts 657 

—  broiled 657 

—  California,  a  la  Monterey 659 

—  cutlets,  Girondins 657 

—  in  papers 657 

—  Piedmontese  style 657 

—  roasted 658 

—  salmis  of,  a  la  Morisini 658 

—  with  bayleaf 658 

—  with  mushrooms — stuffed  (Fig.  402).  658 

—  with  risot 659 

Quenelles,  chicken,  a  la  Drew 702 

—  chicken,  a  la  Richelieu  (Fig  429) 702 

—  chicken,  a  la  Bretonne  (Fig.  430) 703 

—  chicken,  with  consomme 703 

—  decorated,  molded  and  pocket,  to  pre- 

pare (Figs.  72  to  79) 208 

—  fish,  Montglas  (Fig.  431) 703 

—  foies-gras,  stuffed  a  la  Financiere  (Fig. 

432) 704 


1171 


PAGE. 

Quenelles  for  garnishings  (see  garnishings)  348 

—  grouse,  Londonderry 705 

—  lobster 246 

—  marrow 256 

—  partridge,  a  la  Stuart  (Fig.  433) 705 

—  pheasant —  fried 705 

—  salmon— stuffed  (Fig.  434) 705 

—  spring  turkey,  a  la  Providence  (Fig. 

4351 706 

—  sweet  potatoes 271 

—  to  mold  with  a  spoon — plain,  filled  or 

rolled  in  flour  (Figs.  80  to  84) 209 

—  woodcock,  a  la  d'Artois  (Fig.  436) 706 

Quinces,  preserved 1055 

Rabbits,  young,  a  la  Celtoise 659 

—  a  la  Thieblin   659 

—  cutlets  a  la  Previllot 690 

—  fillets  of,    a   la    Bienvenu,  garnished 

with  croquettes 660 

—  fillets  of,  a  la  Lavoisier 661 

—  fillets  of,  with  artichoke  puree 661 

—  fillets  of,  with  currant  sauce 661 

—  fillets  of,  with  mushroom  puree  .    ...  661 

—  gibelotte  of 661 

—  gibelotte  of,  Parrnentier 662 

—  Hunter's  style , ...    .  660 

—  jugged    with  blood 660 

—  pie  with  fine  herbs 714 

—  roasted  and  larded  (Fig.  403) 660 

—  Valencia  style 659 

—  wild,  backs — broiled 662 

Radishes,  black  and  red  (Fig.  209) 363 

Rail  a  la  Mareille,  roasted  and   broiled. . .  662 
Raise,  pare  and  poach  breasts  of   poultry 

and  game,  to 209 

Raisins  and  currants,  to  clean — Smyrna 

and  Malaga 210 

Ramekins 868 

Rarebits,  Golden  buck,  Welsh  rarebit  a  la 

Cutting  or  Yorkshire 389 

Ravioles  (Figs.  85,  86,  87)  210 

—  a  la  Bellini 869 

—  Greek 537 

—  of   beef,   chicken   and   veal,  different 

forcemeats  for 193 

Red  snapper  a  la  Cherot 453 

—  a  la  Crequy 453 

—  a  la  Demidoff 453 

—  a  la  Mobile  ...    ....    454 

—  a  la  Princess 454 

Reduce  and  strain  sauces  through  a  tam- 
my, to  (Fig.  88) 210 

Reed  birds,  broiled 662 

—  croustade  of 686 

—  roasted  (Fig.  404)  662 

Rhubarb  with  cream  (see  pie) 924 

Ribs  Of  Beef  a  la  Bourgeoise 733 

—  hot  (see  beef) 476 

—  in  Bellevue 733 

Rice  a  la  Manhattan,  lean 869 

—  Creole 457 

—  croquettes,  with  salpicon 865 


PAGE. 

Rice  for  croustades  and  with  cream 211 

—  Indian 596 

—  Mirabeau 926 

—  Oriental  style 869 

—  to  blanch 170 

—  with  apples 905 

—  with  apricots 927 

—  with  cream  and  raspberries  (Fig.  594)  927 

—  with  strawberries 927 

Risot  a  la  Francatelli 869 

—  a  la  Ristori 869 

—  with  Piedmontese  truffles 869 

Rissoles  a  la  Demidoff 390 

—  beef 390 

—  brain,  Princeton  (Fig.  234) 389 

—  chicken 889 

—  chicken  forcemeat 390 

—  crawfish  a  la  Beatrice 390 

—  fat  livers  a  la  Ude 390 

—  fish  forcemeat 390 

—  game 390 

—  lamb 390 

—  mushroom  and  marrow 390 

—  partridge  a  la  Waddington 391 

—  red  tongue 391 

—  sweetbreads 391 

—  to  prepare  (Figs.  89,  90) 211 

—  veal  palate 39G 

—  with  almond  cream 905 

—  with  preserves 905 

Rissolettes 391 

—  a  la  Pompadour 391 

—  a  la  Renan  391 

—  a  la  Solferino 391 

—  oysters  a  la  Pompadour .  415 

Roebuck,   epigrammes,     marinade     sauce 

with  truffles 667 

—  fillets  a  la  Lorenzo 667 

—  haunch  or  quarter,  a  la  Bouchard. . . .  667 

—  haunch  or  quarter,  a  la  Lytton 667 

—  leg  of,  a  la  Francatelli  (Fig.  405) 668 

Rolls,  small 363 

—  with  chicken 363 

—  with  crawfish 363 

—  with  foies-gras 363 

—  with  lobster 363 

—  with  rillettes  de  Tour 363 

—  with  salpicon 363 

—  with  shrimp  363 

—  with  sole,  fillets 363 

Romanic  (cos  lettuce)  a  la  Rudini — stuffed  840 
Roots,  to  cut  with  a  spoon  or  a  vegetable 

cutter  (Figs.  91,  92) 211 

Ron \,   blond  and  brown 212 

Rum,  flavored  with  vanilla,  spirit  of  straw- 
berries, raspberries  and  apricots. .  212 
Rump  of  Beef  (see  beef) 478 

—  a  la  mode 733 

Sabayon  for  puddings 900 

—  of  chicken  or  game 286 

Salads  (cooked)  asparagus 803 

—  bagration 803 


THE    EPICUREAN". 


PAGE.     •{• 

Salads (cooked)— 

—  beef,  with  tomatoes 803 

—  capon,  a  la  Mortimer 803 

—  chicken,  American  style 804 

—  chicken,  mayonnaise 804 

—  chicken,  with  vegetables  (Fig.  538)  . .  804 

—  crab 805 

—  crawfish,  a  la  Maintenon  (Fig.  539).. .  805 

—  crawfish,  with  jelly  (Fig.  540) 805 

—  dressings  or  seasonings 803 

—  dressings,  Chili  vinegar 803 

—  dressings,  Tarragon  vinegar 803 

—  fish 806 

—  frog 806 

—  herring,  with  potatoes 806 

—  Imperial 807 

—  Italian 807 

—  Japanese 807 

—  lamb,  a  la  Somer 807 

—  lobster,  American  style,  or  spiny  lob- 

ster   807 

—  Mazarin 808 

—  Mignon 804 

—  Mirabeau 808 

—  Norwegian 808 

—  oyster 808 

—  Parisian 808 

—  Russian 809 

—  Russian,  for  Lenten  dinners 809 

—  salmon 808 

—  shrimp 809 

Salads  (green)  chicory 812 

—  corn  or  lamb's  lettuce 812 

—  cos  lettuce 813 

—  dandelion 812 

—  escarole  and  endive 812 

—  lettuce  and  anchovies 813 

—  lettuce,  plain 812 

—  Monk's  beard 813 

—  Romaine  (cos  lettuce) 813 

—  water-cress  and  apple,  and  nonpareil  813 
Salads  (cooked  vegetable),  cardoon 809 

—  cauliflower,  mayonnaise 809 

—  celery 809 

—  macedoine 810 

—  okra  and  sweet  pepper 810 

—  potato  and  beetroot 810 

—  potato  and  herring 810 

• —  potato,  hot 810 

—  potato,  in  border  with  truffles 810 

—  oyster  plant 810 

—  string  bean 81 1 

—  white  bean 811 

Salads  (raw  vegetable),  cabbage,  white 

or  red 811 

«-  celery 811 

—  celery  knob 8ll 

—  cucumber 811 

—  cucumber  and  tomato 811 

—  cucumber,  English 811 

—  egg-plant,  Provengal , 811 

—  < ierman,  with  croutons 811 


PAGE. 
Salads  (raw  vegetable)— 

—  onion,  Bermuda 813 

—  tomato 812 

—  truffle,  a  la  Gambetta 812 

Salmis,  canvasback  ducks 640 

—  Mallard  ducks  with  Madeira 641 

—  partridges t .  649 

—  partridges 786 

—  pheasants  a  la  Lorenzo 653 

—  plovers  (yellow  leg)  a  la  Duclair 656 

—  quails  a  la  Balzac , 786 

—  quails  a  la  Morisini 658 

—  teal  ducks  a  la  Harrison 643 

—  woodcock  a  la  Baumont 672 

—  woodcock  a  la  Sandford 673 

Salmon,  a  1'Argentine. 454 

—  a  la  d'Artois — fillets 454 

—  a  la  Avelane  (Fig.  525) 788 

—  a  la  Courbet 790 

—  a  la  Daumont 455 

—  a  la  Destaing 788 

—  a  la  Duperre — darne 455 

—  a  la  Farragut 788 

—  a  la  moderne „ .  455 

—  a  la  moderne — on  socle  (Fig.  526). .  ,  ,  789 

—  a  la  Regence — on  socle 789 

—  a  la  Seymour. .. 790 

—  a  la  Victoria 455 

—  broiled  slices,  Bearnaise  sauce 456 

—  Darne,  decorated  (Fig.  522) 786 

—  description  (Fig.  297) 454 

—  French  style  (Fig.  298) 455 

—  marinade  sauce 456 

—  quarter — Genevoise  sauce  (Fig.  299).  456 

—  quenelles,  stuffed  (Fig.  434) 705 

—  Russian  style 790 

—  salted,  a  la  Bedlow 456 

—  sliced  and  decorated  (Fig.  523)  787 

—  sliced,  with  jelly  (Fig.  524) 787 

—  smoked,  American  style 457 

—  Venetian  style 790 

—  with  Montpellier  or  Cambridge  butter  790 

—  with  Sauterne  wine 363 

Salpicon  (see  garnishings) 349 

—  chicken,  baked ,,......  706 

—  how  to  prepare 213 

Salsify  or  oyster  plant  a  la  poulette,  sauted 

or  fried 840 

Salt  hams,  to 175 

Sandwiches  (Figs.  210,  211,  212) 363 

—  Barlow 364 

—  chicken,  chopped  or  in  thin  slices. . . .  364 

—  different  meats 364 

—  game 364 

—  of  French    rolls.  American   style  and 

with  anchovies 364 

Sardels 355 

Sardines  a  la  Seville 399 

—  broiled,    anchovies  fried,    and   silver 

fish  in  papers 457 

—  marinated 865 

Sat  mat  «M!  pulled  sugar , 1033 


IJSTDKX. 


1173 


PAGE. 

Sauces  (cold) 289 

—  butters  (see  butters) 320 

—  apple 323 

—  apple,  Chantilly  with  horseradish  a  la 

Sanford 323 

—  apple,  English  style 323 

• —  apple,  gourmets  with  horseradish  and 

orange  juice 323 

—  apple,  Swedish 323 

—  boar 323 

—  chaudfroids,    bechamel     cream    with 

tomato  puree  and  fecula 323 

—  chaudfroids,  blond 324 

—  chaudfroids,  brown  and  game 324 

—  chaudfroids,  green 324 

—  chaudfroids,  white 324 

—  chicken  and  game 324 

—  cranberry 324 

—  Cumberland 324 

—  currant  or  gooseberry,  with  sugar. . . .  324 

—  currant,  with  orange 325 

—  fine  herbs  and  shallots  with  oil 325 

—  green 325 

—  green,  Spanish 325 

—  horseradish  and  cream  with  oil 325 

—  mayonnaise 325 

—  mayonnaise  a  la  Bayonnaise 325 

—  mayonnaise  Cardinal  326 

—  mayonnaise  Figaro 326 

—  mayonnaise,  green. .    326 

—  mayonnaise  mousseline 327 

—  mayonnaise,  Printaniere.    326 

—  mayonnaise,    Provencal,   with    sweet 

peppers 326 

—  mayonnaise  ravigote 326 

—  mayonnaise  with  arrowroot 326 

—  mayonnaise  with  fine  herbs 326 

—  mayonnaise  with  jelly  and  jellied. . . .  326 

—  mayonnaise  with  fruit  jelly.   326 

—  mint 327 

—  orange 327 

—  Parisian,  for  all  foods 329 

—  peach  or  apple  marmalade 327 

—  persillade 327 

—  poivrade 327 

—  Polish 327 

-    raisin.. 327 

—  ravigote  or  green  butter 322 

—  ravigote,  with  oil 327 

—  remoulade 328 

—  remoulade,  Indian  style 328 

—  remoulade,  vert-pre 328 

—  remoulade,  with  anchovies 328 

—  remoulade,  with  fine  herbs 328 

—  Rosseberry 328 

—  Rougemont 328 

—  Tartar 328 

—  Tartar,  English  style 329 

—  tomato  catsup 329 

—  vinegar,  with  fine  herbs 329 

—  vinegar,  with  shallots  and  mustard . . .  329 

—  Ziska 329 


Sauces  for  cold  entremets 

—  Bischoff 

—  English  cream,  flavored  with  vanilla. . 

—  frothy , 

—  frothy  vanilla  and  rum 

—  Sabayon 

Sauces  (hot),  African. 

—  Allemande,  red  wine  and  fruits 

—  American 

—  anchovy,  fat  and  lean 

—  apple,  hot  with  butter  and  gravy  and 

hot  or  cold  

—  Argentine ... 

—  Aurora,  fat  and  lean 

—  Barnave 

—  Bavaroise 

—  Bearnaise,  hot  mayonnaise  and  with 

tomatoes 

—  Berchoux 

— Bigarade 

—  Bordelaise  with  marrow 

—  Bourguignotte — lean 

—  bread,  American 

—  bread,  English 

—  bread,  French 

—  bread,  German,  fried 

—  bread,  Reglain 

—  Bretonne 

—  brown  English 

—  butter 

—caper 

—  Cardinal — fat  and  lean 

—  Castillane 

—  celery 

—  champagne  and  other  wines 

—Chateaubriand 

—cherry 

—  chervil 

—  Chivry 

—  chocolate 

— chopped 

—  Clermont 

—Colbert    

— Colbert,  English  and  tarragon   

—crab 

—  crawfish 

— cream 

—  cream,  English,  flavored  with  vanilla 

—  currant,  white  

—  currant,  with  wines 

—  curry,  Indian 

—  curry,  with  apples. 

—  Danish 

—  D'Antin 

—  deviled 

—  Diana 

—  D'Orleans 

—  duxelle,  with  cooked  fine  herbs  and 

truffles 

—  egg,  English.   

—  egg,  Polish 

—fennel 


PAGE. 
927 
879 
876 
928 
902 
900 
296 
296 
296 
296 

297 
297 
297 
297 
297 

297 
298 
298 
298 
298 
299 
299 
299 
299 
299 
299 
526 
299 
299 
299 
300 
300 
300 
300 
300 
300 
301 
904 
316 
301 
301 
301 
301 
301 
301 
876 
302 
302 
302 
302 
302 
302 
303 
303 
311 

303 
303 
303 
303 


1174 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Sauces  (hot)— 

—  Financiere  with  game  and  chicken — 

fat  or  lean 303 

—  Finnoise 304 

—  Flavignan 304 

—  Fleurette 341 

—  French 304 

—  Gascogne 304 

—  Gascogne  with  tomatoes 304 

—  Genevoise 304 

—  Genoese 304 

—  gooseberry 305 

—  gourmets 305 

—  green 305 

—  green  Hollandaise 305 

—  Grimod 305 

—  ham 305 

—  Harlequin 305 

—  Hollandaise 305 

—  Hollandaise,  modern 310 

—  Hollandaise  mousseline 305 

—  horseradish,  bechamel  306 

—  horseradish,  with  bread-crumbs 306 

—  horseradish,  with  cream 306 

—  Hungarian 306 

—  Hunter's — Chasseur 306 

—  Huntress 306 

—  Hussarde 307 

—  Indian 307 

—  Italian 307 

—  Juvigny 307 

—  Laguipierre 307 

—  La  Valliere 318 

—  Lithuanian 307 

—  lobster 307 

—  lobster,  with  lobster  butter 308 

—  lobster,  with  Madeira  wine 308 

—  Lomb-irde 308 

—  Lucullus 308 

—  Lyonnese,  with  tarragon ....  308 

—  Madeira  wine 308 

—  maitre-d'botel,  thickened 308 

—  maitre-d'hotel,  with  marrow 298 

—  Mantaise 308 

—  Marceau 309 

—  Marinade 309 

—  Mariniere 309 

—  Marsala  wine 308 

—  Matelotte 309 

—  mayonnaise 297 

—  Milanese 309 

—  Mirabeau 309 

—  Montebello 310 

—  Montigny 310 

—  Mornay 310 

—  mushroom 310 

—  mussel 310 

—  Neapolitan 310 

—  Nonpareil 311 

—  Normande 311 

—  olive,  stuffed  or  not  stuffed 311 

—  orange 311 


Sauces  (hot)— 

—  oyster 

—  Palermitaine 

—  Parisian 

—  parsley  pluche 

—  Perigord 

—  Perigueux 

—  pickle 

—  Piedmontese 

—  Pignola,  Italian  style 

—  Pimentade 

—  Poivrade,  fat,  lean,  brown  or  white. 

—  Poivrade  for  sauces 

—  Polish 

—  Pompadour 

—  Portuguese 

—  poulette 

—  Princess 

—  Printaniere 

—  Provencal,  fat  or  lean 

—  Queen 

—  Ravigote,  aromatic 

—  Ravigote,  green  Printaniere 

—  Ravigote,  white  with  oil 

—  Regence 

—  Robert 

—  Roman 

—  Russian 

—  Salmis,  champagne  and  truffles 

—  Salmis,  red  wine 

—  Salmis,  white  wine 

—  shal  lot 

—  shallot  gravy 

—  shallot,  with  marrow 

—  sharp 

—  sharp,  with  capers  and  onion  puree. 

—  sherry  wine 

—  shrimp 

—  shrimp  and  cream 

—  shrimp  and  crab 

—  Sicilian 

—  Soubise 

—  sour 

—  Soya  

—  Supreme 

—  tarragon 

—  tomato 

—  tomato,  Andalouse 

—  tomato,  Conde 

—  tomato,  extract  

—  tomato,  Parisienne 

—  truffle 

—  turtle,  fat  and  lean 

—  Valois 

—  Venetian 

— venison  

—  Victoria 

—  Viennese 

—  Villars 

—  Villeroi 

—  Westphalian 

—  white,  English,  and  without  butter. 


PAGE 

311 
311 
312 
300 
312 
312 
312 
312 
312 
312 
313 
313 
313 
313 
313 
313 
313 
317 
314 
314 
314 
314 
314 
314 
315 
315 
315 
315 
315 
315 
315 
315 
559 
316 
316 
308 
316 
316 
316 
316 
316 
317 
317 
317 
317 
317 
317 
317 
310 
317 
318 
318 
318 
319 
319 
319 
319 
319 
319 
319 
319 


1175 


PAGE. 
Sauces  (hot) — 

—  York 320 

—  Zuchetti 320 

Sauces  (stocks,  essences,  etc.) 289 

—  Allemande 292 

—  Allemande,  with  mushroom  essence. .  292 

—  bechamel 293 

—  bechamel,  chicken 293 

—  bechamel,  lean,  with  cream   293 

—  bechamel,  with  mushroom  essence. . .  293 

—  brown,  Espagnole  or  Spanish 294 

—  duxelle  or  cooked  fine  herbs 289 

—  essences  and  f  umet 289 

—  essence  of  chicken 289 

—  essence  of  fish 289 

—  essence  of  game 289 

—  essence  of  ham 289 

• —  essence  of  hot  aspic 290 

—  essence  of  mushrooom 290 

—  essence  of  root 290 

—  essence  of  tame  or  wild  duck ....  290 

—  essence  of  truffle 290 

—  fine  herbs,  raw 290 

—  f  umet  of  partridge  or  other  game 290 

—  glaze,  chicken  or  game 290 

—  glaze,  fish 291 

—  glaze,  clear  half 291 

—  glaze,  meat,  clear 291 

—  glaze,  meat,  plain 291 

—  glaze ,  root , 291 

—  gravy,  clear 292 

—  gravy,  thick 292 

—  half  glaze,  thickened  and  clear 293 

—  Matignon 292 

—  stock,  braise,  for  braising  meats 295 

—  stock,  brown,  Spanish  or  Espagnole. .  295 

—  stock,    fish,  for   lean   Espagnole  and 

veloute 294 

—  stock,  mirepoix  and  dry  mirepoix. . . .  295 

—  stock,    poeler,    for    cooking    fowl   or 

white  game  meat 295 

—  stock,  veal  blond 296 

—  stock,  veloute 295 

—  veloute 294 

—  veloute     and    brown,    Espagnole    or 

Spanish,  for  lean 294 

Sauerkraut,  garnished 840 

Sausages  (see  pork) 577 

—  smoked,  with  or  without  garlic, 

D'Arles,  Lyons,   Mortadella   (Fig. 

213) 365 

—  venison  and  crepine 685 

Saute  meats,  to 173 

Savarin  a  la  Valence 942 

—  small 954 

—  with  apricots 906 

Scald,  to 213 

Scallops  (St.  Jacques  shells)  (Fig.  277) ...  418 

—  a  la  Brestoise 418 

—  a  la  Havraise  (Fig.  278) 418 

—  a  la  Mariniere 418 

—  on  toast,  baked 419 


PAGE. 

Scallops,  Orly 419 

—  Parisian  style 419 

—  with  eggs  and  bread-crumbs 419 

—  with  milk  and  flour 419 

Scotch  Haggis 542 

Sea  kale 823 

SerYice  for  table,  wines,  etc 1 

Shad  a  la  Creole,  Creole  rice 457 

—  a  la  Evers,  garnished  with  shad  roe 

shells 458 

—  broiled,  ravigote  butter  (Fig.  300) 457 

—  Brussels  style 458 

—  Irish  style,  garnished    with  shad  roe 

croquettes 458 

—  planked,  ravigote  butter 458 

—  with  sorrel  puree  and  sorrel  leaves. . .  458 
Sheep's  ears,  Westphalian 536 

—  tails  with  olives 545 

—  tongues,  ecarlate,  with  spinach 546 

—  tongues,  Neapolitan  style 546 

—  trotters  a  la  poulette 546 

—  trotters  a  la  vinaigrette 546 

Sheepshead  a  la  bechamel 459 

—  a  la  Bourguignonne 459 

—  a  la  Buena  Vista 459 

—  a  la  Meissonier 459 

—  Cardinal  sauce 459 

—  sliced  with  jelly 790 

—  with  thickened  court-bouillon 460 

Shells,  Benoiton . .  706 

—  beef  palates  a  la  Mariniere 707 

—  brains 709 

—  capon  with  jelly 791 

—  chicken  a  la  Shaw 707 

—  chicken  or  sweetbreads 708 

—  filled  with  crawfish  tails  (Fig.  437). . .  707 

—  filled  with  shrimps  and  oyster  crabs 

(Fig.  438) 707 

—  fish 708 

—  frogs : . .  708 

—  lobster 708 

—  mussels  or  oysters,  baked 708 

—  oysters  a  la  Villa 706 

—  oysters  baked  in  their  natural  shells.  708 

—  oysters  in  their  natural  shells 709 

—  oysters  roasted  in  their  natural  shells  709 

—  oysters  roasted,  English  style  709 

—  oysters  with  fried  bread,  in  their 

shells 709 

—  perch 791 

—  red  snapper 791 

—  scallops,  Parisian  style 709 

—  shad  roe 458 

—  spinal  marrow 709 

—  squabs,  baked 709 

—  sweetbreads,  veal  or  lamb,  a  la  Harper  710 

—  terrapin  with  hazel-nuts 710 

Sherbets  and  punches  (see  ices) 1000 

Sherry  and  bitters 1065 

Shrimps  (Fig.  279) 419 

—  fried 419 

—  in  side  dishes r  *  <. .  365 


1176 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 

Shrimps  with  tomatoed  Bearnaise 419 

—  with  mushrooms 419 

Short  loin  of  beef  (see  beef) 481 

Side  dishes,  cold 355 

—  hot 368 

Sieve  cloth  of  different  size  meshes  (Figs. 

93to  98) 213 

Silver  fish  in  papers 457 

Sirloin  of  beef  (see  beef) 482 

Skate  a  la  Lechartier 460 

—  with  hazel-nut  or  black  butter 460 

Skewers  or  hatelets  for  hot  meats,  etc., 

(Fig.  11) 172 

—  in  Bellevue  and  others,  for  cold  meats 

etc.  (Figs.  501  to  507) 765 

—  of  chicken  livers,  Colbert  sauce 678 

—  of  lampreys,  marinade  sauce 678 

Sliced  and  buttered  rye  or  white  bread. . .  365 

—  and  rolled  bread 365 

Smelts  a  1'Alexandria. 460 

—  a  la  Gondoliere 460 

—  a  la  Norfolk 461 

—  diplomatic 461 

—  fried  on  skewers,  tartar  truffle  saace.  461 

—  in  Dauphin  a  la  Hamlin 461 

—  marinated 865 

Smoked  beef 365 

—  breast  of  goose 365 

—  salmon 365 

—  sturgeon 365 

—  tongue 365 

Smother  meats,  to 173 

Snails  (see  edible  snails)  (Fig.  270) 405 

Snipe,  African  style  663 

—  a  la  Montaland 663 

—  ala  Waleski 663 

—  baked 663 

—  broiled 663 

—  English  (Fig.  393) 639 

—  in  papers 663 

—  roasted 664 

—  stuffed,  Bordelaise 664 

—  sand,   roasted,  with  water-cress 664 

Socles  and  ornaments  (Figs.  527  to  530). . .  791 

Soles  a  la  Colbert— fried 461 

—  ala  Lutece 462 

—  ala  Normande 462 

—  a  la  Rochelaise 463 

—  a  la  Trouville 463 

—  baked,  Italian  style 463 

—  fillets,  a  la  Marguery 462 

—  fillets,  a  la  Mazagran  (Fig.  531) 793 

—  fillets,  a  la  Richelieu 462 

—  fillets,  stuffed 463 

—  fillets,  Venetian  style 463 

—  fried 463 

—  timbale  of  fillets  of,  a  la  Gauloise. . . .  716 

Sorrel  with  gravy 840 

Souffle"  of  chicken  (Figs.  439,  440) 710 

—  of  chicken  a  la  Delsart 710 

—  chestnuts  with  vanilla 906 

—  chocolate 906 


PAGE. 

Souffle*,  creamy,  with  cheese 870 

—  fat  livers  with  truffles 710 

—  game  a  la  Lucie 7H 

—  in  cases  with  vanilla  or  orange — small 

(Figs.  584,  585; 906 

—  lobster  in  cases 711 

—  partridge  a  la  Haggins 711 

—  pheasant  a  la  Andrew 711 

—  rice  with  maraschino 906 

—  with  Parmesan  cheese 870 

—  with  raspberries 907 

—  with  Swiss  cheese 870 

—  with  Swiss  and  Parmesan   cheese — in 

cases 870 

—  woodcocks  with  truffles 711 

Soups  (plate) 239 

—  broths,  care  to  be  taken  while  prepar- 

ing    240 

—  broths,  clear,  bouillon 240 

—  broths,  white,  chicken  bouillon 241 

—  consomme,  clarified 241 

—  consomme,  chicken,  clarified 241 

—  consomme,  fish,  clarified 241 

—  consomme,  game,  clarified    242 

—  consomme,     vegetable,    clarified    for 

Lent 242 

—  fat,  albumen,  bones 239 

—  fibrine,  gelatine  and  osmazome 240 

—  parts  of  beef  for  preparing  bouillons 

and  stocks 242 

—  stock  of  beef  or  broth 242 

—  game,    vegetable,   fish    and    chicken 

stock  for  thick  soups 243 

—  thickenings  for 218 

Soups  (bisques) 243 

—  crabs 243 

—  crabs  a  la  Stevens 243 

—  crabs,  Oriental 244 

—  crawfish 244 

—  crawfish  a  la  Bateliere 244 

—  crawfish  a  la  Humboldt 245 

—  crawfish  a  la  Persigny 245 

—  lobster 245 

—  lobster  a  la  Benoist 245 

—  lobster  a  la  Cambridge 245 

—  lobster  a    la  Portland,  lobster    que- 

elles 246 

—  or  puree  of  clams  a  la  Hendrick 243 

—  or  puree  of  mussels  a  la  Cutting 246 

—  or  puree  of  oysters  a  la  Wilson 246 

—  shrimps  a  la  Melville 247 

—  shrimps  a  la  Veragua 247 

—  shrimps,  Bretonne 247 

Soups  (consomme"),  Adelina 248 

—  Andalouse 248 

—  Antonelli,  lean  or  fat 248 

—  Balzac,    chicken,    shrimp    and   green 

pea  timbales 248 

—  Bariatenski 249 

—  Berry 249 

—  Britannia 249 

—  Careme.  lean  or  fat 249 


INDEX. 


1177 


PAGE. 
Soups  (consomme")— 

—  Celestine 249 

—  Channel 250 

—  Colbert,  with  poached  eggs 250 

—  Comus 250 

—  creani  of  pheasants  or  game 250 

—  Daumont „ 250 

—  Dubarry 251 

—  Duchess 251 

—  Florentine 251 

—  Franklyn 251 

—  garnishings  of 247 

—  Grammont 252 

—  Hongroise 252 

—  Imperatrice 251 

—  Laguipierre 252 

—  Noailles , 252 

—  Plumerey 252 

—  Printaniere,  with  quenelles 253 

—  Remusat 253 

—  Royale 253 

—  Sevigne  . . 253 

—  Souveraine 253 

—  with  Chinese  birds'  nests 254 

—  with  swallows'  nests 254 

Soups  (cream) 254 

—  artichokes,  Morlaisian 254 

—  asparagus  a  la  St.  Vallier 254 

—  asparagus,  with  croutons,  souffles  or 

asparagus  tops 255 

—  barley,  Vienna  style 255 

'   — Brussels  sprouts , 255 

—  carrots,  with  Compiegne  croutons. . . .  258 

—  cauliflower,  Brisson 255 

—  celery  or  cardoons  a  la  Livingstone, 

marrow  quenelles 256 

—  chiffonade,  with  crusts 256 

—  cucumber  a  la  Sheppard ...  256 

—  green  corn  a  la  Hermann 256 

—  green  corn  a  la  Mendocino 256 

—  Jerusalem  artichokes 257 

—  leeus,  with  quenelles 256 

—  lettuce,   romaine    or    chicory,    a    la 

Evers 257 

—  lima,  kidney  or  horse  beans 257 

—  peas  a  la  St.  Germain 257 

—  peas,  with  mint 257 

—  rice  a  la  Cremieux 255 

—  sorrel,  with  stuffed  eggs 258 

—  squash 258 

—  string  beans  a  la  Vefour 258 

—  sweet  potatoes  a  la  Gerard 258 

—  turnips 258 

—  vegetable  a  la  Banville 259 

Soups  (purge),  capon  a  la  Jussienne 259 

—  carrots  a  la  Crecy 259 

—  chicken  a  la  Dufferin 259 

—  chicken  a  la  Reine 260 

—  English  snipe 260 

—  grouse  a  la  Manhattan 260 

—  lentils,  Chantilly 260 

—  leveret  or  young  rabbit,  St.  James. . .  260 


PAGE. 
Soaps  (purge)— 

—  oatmeal,  Toulousaine. . 261 

—  partridge  or  quails  a  la  D'Henin 261 

—  pigeons  or  wild  squabs  a  la  Waleski..  261 

—  potatoes  a  la  Benton 261 

—  plover 260 

—  pullet  or    Guinea  fowl  a  la  Wash- 

burn 263 

—  red  beans  a  la  Conde 262 

—  reed  birds  or  larks  with  chestnuts. . . .  262 

—  split  peas  with  croutons  or  rice 262 

—  to  strain  (Figs  99,  99a,  99b) 215 

—  wild  ducks,  canvasback,  redhead   or 

Mallard  a  la  Van  Buren 262 

—  wild  turkey  a  la  Sartiges 263 

—  woodcock  a  la  Theo 260 

Soups  (varied),  barley,  with  celery 263 

—  barsch,  Polish  style , 263 

—  Bennett 264 

—  Benoiton 264 

—  Bouillabaisse 264 

—  Bragance 265 

—  Brunoise,  with  quenelles 265 

—  cabbage 265 

—  calf's  feet,  English  style 265 

—  calf's  tail  a  la  Rundell 266 

—  cassava  and  gluten 271 

—  Chamberlain 266 

—  Champetre 266 

—  Chartreuse 266 

—  chicken  and  leek 266 

—  chicken  okra 267 

—  chowder,  of  clams 267 

—  chowder  of  fresh  and  salt  water  fish 

a  la  Stebens 267 

—  cold,  Russian  style,  Kwass 268 

—  crab  and  shrimp,  a  la  Loubat 268 

—  crawfish,  a  la  Renommee 268 

—  Croute  au  pot 268 

—  D'Osmont 269 

—  Faubonne 271 

—  Fermiere  style 269 

—  fish,  a  la  Ponsardin 269 

—  frog,  with  timbales 269 

—  garbure  with  lettuce 270 

—  giblet,  a  la  Reglain 270 

—  gnocquis,  a  la  Pagioli 270 

—  gumbo  or  okra  with  hard  crabs,  Creole 

style 270 

—  gumbo  with  soft  shell  crabs 271 

—  Hunter's  style 271 

—  Japanese  or  Nizam  pearls 271 

—  Jerome,  with  sweet  potato  quenelles.  271 

—  Julienne 271 

—  Julienne  Faubonne 271 

—  Julienne  Mogul 271 

—  knuckle  of  veal  a  la  Briand 272 

—  lamb    or   veal     sweetbread,    German 

style 272 

—  lobster  and  crawfish,  Duke  Alexis  . .  273 

—  Menestrone  Milanese 273 

.{.        —  manioc 271 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Soups  (varied)— 

—  Marshall 273 

—  Meissonier 273 

—  Mogul 271 

—  Monteille 273 

—  Montorgueil 274 

—  Mullagatawny,  Indian  style 274 

—  mussel,  a  la  Vigo 274 

—  mutton,  a  la  Cowley 274 

—  mutton  hocbepot 274 

—  noodle,  with  Parmesan  cheese 275 

—  noques  or  quenef es 282 

—  onion,  with  Parmesan  cheese,  browned 

and  thickened 275 

—  oxtail,  a  la  Soyer 275 

—  oyster,  a  la  Cruyst 276 

—  oyster,  American  style 275 

—  oyster,  French  style 276 

—  oyster,  with  powdered  okra  or  gumbo  276 

—  oyster,  with  oyster  ravioles 276 

—  partridge,  a  la  Royale 276 

—  pastes,  Florence  snow 277 

—  pastes,  Lasagnes 277 

—  pastes,  Lasagnettes 277 

—  pastes,  macaroni 277 

—  pastes,  macaroncelli 277 

—  pastes,  paillettes 277 

—  pastes,  spaghetti 277 

—  pastes,  tagliarelli 277 

—  pastes,  vermicelli <, 277 

—  Paterson 277 

—  Pilau,  Turkish  style 277 

—  pot-au-feu 277 

—  raviole  and  pearl ,  283 

—  rice,  a  la  Rudini 278 

—  sagoorsalep 271 

—  semolina „   ....  271 

—  Sherman , 278 

—  shrimp,  mignon 278 

—  small  individual  soup- pots  (Fig.  198).  279 

—  sorrel 279 

—  sorrel  with  herbs  and  Flemish  style. .  279 

—  spaghetti  with  cream 279 

—  Spanish  Oilla 280 

—  tapioca 271 

—  terrapin,  clear,  thick  or  white 280 

—  turtle,  dried,  thick  or  clear 280 

—  turtle,  green,  clear  a  la  royal,  or  thick 

with  marrow  quenelles 281 

—  turtle,  mock,  clear,  calf's  head 281 

—  turtle,  mock,  thickened. 282 

—  turtle,  to  prepare    one  weighing  one 

hundred  pounds 281 

—  velvet    282 

—  Westmoreland „ 282 

—  woodcock 283 

&raps  and  preparations  for  invalids. .  283 

—  arrowroot,  Indian 283 

—  Bavaroise 283 

—  beeljiiice 286 

~—  b*oth,    chicken     and    mutton,    with 

barley 283     . 


PAGE. 

Soups  and  preparations  for  invalids — 

—  broth,  chicken  and  veal  283 

—  broth,  chicken,  plain 283 

—  broth,  clam  and  puree 284 

—  broth,  fish,  with  clams 284 

—  broth,  frog  and  puree 284 

—  broth,  herb 285 

—  broth,  mutton 285 

—  broth,  veal,  refreshing 286 

—  broth,  wheat,  oats  or  barley 287 

—  custard  cream  of  chicken  or  game. . . .  284 

—  extract  of  beef,  plain 284 

—  jelly,  chicken  and  calf's  feet 285 

—  jelly,  meat  and  calf's  feet.    285 

• —  mulled  egg  and  almond  milk  with  rice 

flour 285 

—  puree  of  barley  with  chicken  broth. . .  286 

—  puree  of  chicken 286 

—  puree  of  grouse 286 

—  puree  of  oatmeal  or  wheaten  grits. . . .  286 

—  puree  of  partridge 286 

—  puree  of  roebuck 286 

—  sabayon  of  chicken  or  game 286 

—  tea,  beef 286 

—  tea,  chicken 286 

—  tea,  mutton 286 

—  veal 286 

Spaghetti  macaroni  a  la  Laurence 867 

—  a  la  Lucini 867 

—  a  la  Prati 867 

—  Queen  style 867 

—  Salvini 868 

Spices,  aromatics  and  seasonings  for  cook- 
ing purposes 213 

Spin  sugar  by  throwing,  to 1035 

Spinach  a  la  Noailles 841 

—  a  la  Rougemont 841 

—  English  style 841 

—  with  bechamel  sauce 841 

—  with  cream 841 

Spinal  marrow  (see  veal) 522 

Sponge  cake  (see  cakes) .  942 

Spotted-fish  a  la  Livournaise 464 

—  English  style— fillets 464 

—  mussel  sauce — whole 464 

—  Queen  sauce — fillets 464 

—  with  court-bouillon,  Calcutta 464 

—  with  green  ravigote  sauce ,   . .  464 

Squabs  a  la  Briand 626 

—  a  la  Carolina 629 

—  a  la  Crispi 626 

—  a  la  Flourens 627 

—  a  1'Iin  prompt  u — sauted 627 

—  a  la  Stanislas— stuffed 627 

—  a  la  Vestal 629 

—  American  style — stuffed 627 

—  ballotines    a  la   Madison   (Figs.   452, 

453) 730 

—  breasts  a  la  Duxelle 629 

—  broiled,  Colbert  sauce 627 

—  Crapaudine  (Fig.  384) 626 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 688 


INDEX. 


1179 


PAGE. 

Squabs,  English  style 627 

—  fritters,  Oporto  sauce 629 

- —  in  earthernware  saucepan  or  stuffed — 

roasted 628 

—  New  York  style 628 

—  or   wild   pigeons,    poupeton,    Ancient 

style 654 

—  with  Figaro  sauce — fried 628 

—  with  tarragon 628 

Squash  (marrow)  with  Parmesan 841 

Steaks  (see  beef) 484 

Stearine,  how  to  cast  and  color 214 

Stewed  apples  with  jelly 1056 

—  bananas 1056 

—  cherries 1056 

—  chestnuts 1056 

—  oranges 1056 

—  peaches  or  apricots 1057 

—  pears 1057 

—  pineapple 1057 

—  prunes 1057 

—  raspberries 1057 

—  strawberries 1057 

Stock,  white,  for  meats  and  vegetables. . . .  221 

Strasburg  liver  pie  (Fig.  519) 782 

Strawberries  and  raspberries — stewed...  1057 

Strawberry  juice 1052 

Straw  cheese 366 

String  beans  a  1' Albani 841 

—  a  la  Bourguignonne 842 

—  a  la  Pettit 842 

—  marinated 366 

—  smothered 842 

—  with  butter 842 

Sturgeon  fricandeau,  with  sorrel  or  green 

peas. ...    465 

—  or  sterlet,  Livonienne — small 794 

—  or  sterlet,  with  quenelles  and  olives 

— small  ....     465 

Succotash 825 

Suckling:  pig  a  la  Piedmontese 578 

—  boned 758 

—  roasted  on  the  spit  or  stuffed 579 

—  salted  and  smoked,  with  sauerkraut. .  579 

Suedoise  of  apples  and  pears 927 

Sugar  flavored  with  vanilla 905 

—  for  casting  in  molds 1035 

—  Mocha 939 

—  of  different  colors  and  icing  sugar. . .  217 

—  satinated  pulled 1033 

—  to  cook ...  216 

—  to  spin  by  throwing 1035 

Surprise  of  fruits,  frothy  sauce 928 

Surtout  of  chicken  livers  with  mushrooms, 

or  in  rice  border  with  curry 712 

—  of  chicken  livers  with  mushrooms...  712 

—  wild  pigeons — baked 712 

Sweetbreads,  lamb  (see  lamb) 565 

—  veal,  a  la  Binda  (paillettes) 522 

—  veal,  a  la  Bussy 522 

—  veal,  a  la  Columbus 522 

—  veal,  a  la  Conti 523 


Sweetbreads,  veal,  a  1'Ecarlate. . . 

—  veal,  a  1'Eugenie 

—  veal,  a  la  La  Valliere 

a  la  Mirabeau 

a  la  Maltese 

a  la  Marsilly 

a  la  Montebello 

a  la  Montpensier 

a  la  Princesse 

a  la  St.  Cloud 

a  la  St.  Laurent 

a  la  Theodora  (Fig.  331) 


—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  veal, 

—  au  Chancelier ,  525 

—  au  Monarch 526 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 689 

—  English  style,  brown  English  sauce. .  526 

—  escalops,  a  la  Careme 692 

—  fritters,  cream  sauce 526 

—  iu  papers 526 

—  larded  and  glazed  with  cepes  Borde- 

laise 526 

—  larded  and   glazed    with  gravy  (Fig. 

332) 527 

—  Neapolitan  style 524 

—  Parisian  style 527 

—  Piedmontese  style 525 

—  Portuguese  style 525 

—  Spanish  style 527 

—  way  to  prepare 522 

—  with  quenelles 527 

—  Zurich  527 

Sweet  entremets 873 

Sweet  potatoes  (see  potatoes) 842 

Syrup  of  apples 908 

Tagliatelli  in  croustade 870 

Tails,  lamb,  Conti 566 

Tart,  band  (Fig.  100) 217 

—  (see  pies) 712 

—  Conde 928 

—  empty,  Ancient  style  (Fig.  101) 217 

—  pigeon,  a  la  Britannia 714 

Tartlets,  alinondine 955 

—  apple 955 

—  Bordelaise 955 

—  cherry 955 

—  Colombia 955 

—  Deuionet 956 

—  Fanchonettes,  meringued 956 

—  game,  lobster,  salmon  or  nonpareil..  366 

—  Herisson 956 

—  peach,  with  rice 956 

—  pelerine 956 

—  sour  apple  955 

—  Valencia 956 

—  variegated  fruit 956 

Tea 1060 

—  beef,  mutton,  chicken  or  veal 286 

—  Russian 1059 

—  (see  beef) 488 

Tenderloin  of  beet  a  la  Bouquetiere  ....  734 

—  a  la  Evers 734 

—  a  la  Lucullus  (Fig.  455) „...  =  ...  734 


1180 


THE 


PAGE. 

Tenderloin  of  beef  a  la  Noailles 735 

—  a  la  Violetta 735 

—  Grenadins  Rocbambeau 736 

—  witb  croustades,  Macedoine 736 

—  witb    vegetables,    mayonnaise     (Fig. 

456) ." 736 

Terrapin  (Fig.  280) 420 

—  a  la  Baltimore  (Fig.  282,  283) 423 

—  a  la  Crisfield 424 

—  a  la  Delmonico 424 

—  a  la  Maryland 424 

—  a  la  Newburg 424 

—  a  la  Pbiladelpbia 424 

—  a  la  Trenton 425 

—  Ancient  style 424 

—  cutlets  and  croquettes,  cream  sauce. .  424 

—  Epicurean  style  .....    425 

—  Maryland  Club 424 

—  stewed,  witb  Madeira  wine 425 

—  to  prepare  and  cook 423 

—  to  select,  keep,  table  and  price  list  (Fig. 

281) 420 

Terrine  of  duck's  liver  a  1'Aquitaine 794 

—  of   foies-gras    in    aspic — wbole   (Fig. 

447) 724 

—  of  bam,  kernel 794 

—  of  bare 795 

—  of  larks 795 

—  of  Nerac 795 

—  of  plovers  and  larks 795 

—  of  pork  liver 796 

—  of  pork  liver,  or  pie 777 

—  of  snipe 796 

—  of  wild  rabbits 796 

Thickenings     for     soups,     sauces     and 

stews 218 

Thrushes  a  la  Bianca 664 

—  Andrieux 664 

—  and  robins,  roasted  and  broiled 665 

—  baked 665 

—  in  the  saucepan 665 

—  on  croustades 686 

Timbale  a  la  Figaro 907 

—  a  la  Nantaise  (Fig.  441) 715 

—  cbicken,    Parisian    style — large   (Fig. 

442) 715 

—  crusts,  to  line  and  bake 218 

—  fillets  of  soles  a  la  Gauloise,  Milanese 

macaroni  croquettes 716 

—  for  epicures  (Fig.  443)    715 

—  gnocquis  a  la  Cboiseul 870 

—  lobster  a  la  D'Aumale 716 

—  Milanese  (macaroni   or  noodles)  (Fig. 

571) '.  871 

—  noodles  a  la  Pearsall 871 

—  pbeasants,  with  truffles  (Fig.  532) 797 

—  pullet 716 

—  squabs  a  la  Bercboux 717 

—  sweetbreads,  modern,  large 717 

—  truffles  a  la  Perigord.    845 

—  waffles 928 

•-  young  bare 717 


PAGE. 

Timbales,  remarks  on 392 

-  Beaumarchais  (Fig.  235) 392 

—  Benton  (Fig.  236) 392 

—  Calaisienne  (Fig.  237) 392 

—  Chevaliere  (Fig.  238) 392 

—  chicory 825 

—  Duchess  (Fig.  239) 393 

-  Dumas  (Fig.  240) 393 

—  frog 269 

—  for  gourmets  (Fig.  241) 393 

—  Harlequin  (Fig.  242) 393 

—  Imperial  (Fig.  243) 394 

—  Irving  (Fig.  244) 394 

—  Lagardere  (Fig.  245) 394 

-  La  Valliere  (Fig.  246) 394 

—  Lombardy  (Fig.  247) 395 

—  Marly  (Fig.  248) 395 

—  Massilon — sweet 928 

—  Mentana  (Fig.  249) 395 

—  Montgomery  (Fig.  250) 895 

—  Mosaic  (Fig.  251) 396 

—  Neapolitan  (Fig.  252) 396 

—  Palermitaine  (Fig.  253) 396 

—  Perigordine  (Fig.  254) 396 

—  Princess  (Fig.  255) 396 

—  Renaissance  (Fig.  256) 397 

—  Ristori  (Fig.  257) 397 

—  Rothschild  (Fig.  258) 397 

—  Sartiges  (Fig.  259) 397 

—  Scotch  (Fig.  260) 397 

—  Soubise  (Fig.  261) 398 

—  Soyer  (Fig.  262) 398 

—  Talleyrand  (Fig.  263) 398 

—  Venetian  (Fig.  264). . .    , .  398 

—  with  red  beef  tongue  (Fig.  265) 398 

Toasts  a  la  Waddington 366 

—  dry,  buttered,  dipped  in  water,  milk 

or  cream 947 

—  Florentine 398 

—  garnished  with  bacon 366 

—  garnished  with  chicken 366 

—  garnished  with  chopped  chicken 366 

—  garnished  with  peppers 366 

—  with  oil  and  cheese 399 

—  with  sardines  a  la  Seville 399 

Tomatoes  a  la  Boquillon 843 

—  a  la  Frossart 843 

—  a  la  Gibbons,  sauted  and  fried 844 

—  a  la  Trevise 843 

—  baked  ...    843 

—  broiled,  hot  mayonnaise  sauce 843 

—  Greek  style,  stuffed 479 

—  in  cases — baked 843 

—  Provencal  style,  stuffed 843 

—  Queen  style 844 

—  small,  stuffed 497 

—  stuffed  with  fresh  mushrooms 844 

Tongue,  beef  (see  beef) 504 

—  a  la  Rochefort  (Fig.  533) 797 

—  Arcade  (Fig.   534) 798 

—  red  and  smoked 366 

—  red,  smoked 798 


IJSTDKX. 


1181 


PAGE. 

Tongue,  red,  with  jelly 798 

' —  calf's  (see  calf) 528 

—  calf's  a  la  uiacedoine 799 

—  cod's,  with  chopped  sauce  or   black 

butter 436 

—  lamb's,  with  olives 566 

— -  pig's,  Provencal  style 580 

—  sheep  (see  sheep) 546 

Tournedos  (see  beef) , 496 

Tourte  of  beef  palate,  Parisian  style 718 

—  of  chicken 718 

—  of  fillets  of  soles  a  la  Financiere  (Fig. 

444) 718 

Triangle  for  dressing  tongues,  etc.  (Fig. 

10) 172 

Tripe  a  la  mode  de  Caen 505 

—  a  la  poulette  with  mushrooms 505 

—  a  la  tartare 505 

—  baked,  with  Parmesan  cheese 506 

—  Lyonnaise 506 

—  Parisian  style 506 

—  paupiettes 506 

—  with  cooked  fine  herbs 506 

Trotters  a  la  Bordelaise 566 

—  a  la  Wenberg 566 

—  a  la  Chantilly 567 

—  a  la  Didier 567 

—  a  la  poulette 567 

—  with    tarragon     gravy — stuffed     and 

broiled 567 

Trout  a  la  Beaufort  (Fig.  801) 465 

—  a  la  Cainbaceres 466 

—  a  la  Carfime,  brook  799 

—  a  la  Hoteliere 466 

—  a  la  Hussarde 466 

—  a  la  Joan  of  Arc 466 

—  a  la  Meuniere 466 

—  a  la  Montagnarde 466 

—  au  bleu — small 466 

—  cooked  in  court-bouillon  and  served 

with  different  sauces 467 

—  fried — small 467 

—  Lausanne  style  467 

—  marinated  and  fried 367 

—  marinated  in  wine — small 367 

—  stuffed 467 

—  salmon,  a  1'Antoinette 467 

—  salmon,  vol-au-vent  of,  a  la  Regence.  721 

—  with  jelly,  tartar  sauce  (Fig.  535). . .  799 

Truffle  decorations  (Fig.  485) 753 

Truffles 367 

—  in  a  napkin  or  in  a  croustade  (Fig.  557)  844 

—  in  shells — baked 845 

—  stuffed 845 

—  timbale  a  la  Perigord 845 

—  to  brush  and  peel 219 

Truss,  singe  and  dress  poultry  and  game 

for  entrees  (Figs.  102,  103,  104). . .  219 

—  singe  and  dress  poultry  and  game  for 

roasting  (Figs.  105  to  111) 219 

lish,  sardines,  gurnet   and   accola 

in  oil 367 


PAGE. 

Tunny  fish  or  horse  mackerel,  fried,  with 

arrowroot  mayonnaise  sauce.-. . . .  468 

Turban  of  flukes  or  smelts,  streaked — fil- 
lets   7;9 

—  of  lobster,  garnished  with  shells  , ,      ,  719 
Turbot  a  la  remoulade .  „ 800 

—  Canadian,  a  la  d'Orleans 468 

—  Canadian,  a  la  Houston .  t « «, « •  468 

—  Canadian,  a  la  Mercier c , « .  468 

—  English,  with  caper  sauce 468 

—  or  red  snapper,  marinated 367 

Turkey  a  la  Chipolata— stuffed 629 

—  a  la  Delagrange — wild — stuffed 630 

—  a  la  Financiere— larded  (Fig.  385). ...  630 

—  a  la  Sartiges— studded  (Fig.  386) 630 

—  a  la  Stevens 800 

—  American  style — roasted 631 

—  boned,  a  la  Berger  (Fig.  490) 758 

—  breasts  or  fillets,  a  la  Donovan 633 

—  breasts,  Gustave  Dore 801 

•—  French  style  (Fig.  387) 631 

—  giblets  a  la  Salmander 632 

—  giblets,  peasant  style 632 

—  gobbler  stuffed  with  chestnuts 634 

—  grenades  a  la  Jules  Verne c  633 

—  hen ; 629 

—  in  Daube  a  la  Verneuil  (Fig.  536) 800 

—  legs  with  noodles,  Milanese 633 

—  or  goose  in  Daube 801 

—  spring,   paupiettes  of,  Souvenir  (Fig. 

388) 635 

—  spring,    puree  of    artichokes — larded 

and  roasted 634 

—  spring,  wings  or  breasts,  with  turnips  635 

—  spring,  with    water-cress — roasted  or 

broiled 635 

—  truffled     and  garnished  with    black 

olives 632 

—  wings,  fricasseed  and  baked 633 

—  wings,  with  celery  and  chestnuts. . . .  634 

—  wings,  with  risot — stuffed 634 

—  with  cepes 631 

—  with  white  oyster  sauce 632 

Turnips,  glazed 845 

—  mashed 540 

—  Teltow,  with  Chestnuts 846 

—  with  Spanish,  bechamel  or  alleinande 

sauce 845 

Turtle  (Fig.  284) 425 

—  green,  baked — small 426 

—  Havana  style 426 

—  stewed,  a  la  Foster 426 

Udder,  veal 197 

Utensils  for  kitchen  use  (Figs.  115  to  197).  223 

Varenikis,  Polish 399 

Veal,  brains  (see  brains) 507 

—  breast  a  la  Bourdaloue 508 

—  breast  a  la  Menagere 510 

—  breast  a  la  Mondoux 508 

—  breast  au  gastronome 508 

—  breast  blanquette  a  la  Jacquart .510 

—  breast  stewed  with  roux ,„ „.  510 


1182 


THE    EPICUREAN. 


PAGE. 
Veal,  breast,  stuffed,  with  tomatoes,  Queen 

style 510 

—  crow  a  la  Normande 510 

—  cutlets  (see  cutlets) 511 

—  cuts,  American,  whole  (Fig.  322) 509 

—  cuts,  half  (Fig.  323) 509 

—  ears,  stuffed,  tomato  sauce 512 

—  feet,  American  style 513 

—  fillet,  grenadins,  tomatoed,  Argentine 

sauce 513 

—  fillet  minced,  Portuguese 513 

—  fillet  minions,  puree  of  artichokes. . . .  513 

—  fillet  minions,  with  mushrooms  (Fig. 

327) 513 

—  fillet  paupiettes  a  la  Whittier 514 

—  fillet  sliced  with  Pelerine  potatoes  . . .  515 

—  head  (see  calf) 515 

—  kernel  a  la  Duchess 516 

—  kernel  escalops  a  la  Arnold 692 

—  kernel  in  aspic  with  macedoine  arti- 

chokes   728 

—  kernel  with  half  glaze 517 

—  kernel  with  Macedoine,  small  kernels 

or  nuts 517 

—  kernel     with     Mayonnaise    tomatoed 

sauce 767 

—  kernel    with    thickened    gravy  (Fig. 

829) 516 

—  kidneys  (see  kidneys) 517 

—  leg  or  haunch  a  la  Miribel 518 

—  lights  a  la  Mariniere 518 

—  liver  (see  calf) 518 

—  loin  a  1'Ambassade 519 

—  loin  a  la  Printaniere. . . . 519 

—  loin  a  la  Saintonge 519 

—  loin,  with  gravy 519 

—  neck  of,  au  blanc 520 

—  palates  a  la  Sevigne 520 

—  palates,  Epicurean  style 520 

—  quarter,  Scotch  style. 520 

—  rack  a  1'Albani 520 

—  round  bottom  fricandeau,  glazed  with 

gravy. .   520 

—  round  bottom,  minced,  Sicilian 521 

—  saddle,  larded,  chopped  lettuce  (Fig. 

330) 521 

—  shoulder  a  la  Bourguignotte 521 

—  slice  of  round,  with  gravy 521 

—  Schnitzel,  German  style 514 

—  Schnitzel,  Vienna  style 514 

—  spinal  marrow,  a  la  Barnave 522 

—  spinal  marrow,  a  la  Villeroi 522 

—  sweetbreads  (see  sweetbreads) 522 

—  tails,  with  cabbage 528 

• —  tendon  or  gristle,  a  la  Bayeux 528 

—  tendon  or  gristle,  a  la  Biarritz 528 

—  tongues  a  la  Flamande . .  528 

—  tongues  a  la  Perigueux  (Fig.  333). . . .  528 

—  tongues,  to  salt 528 

—  udder 197 

Vegetables  (Fig.  541) 815 

—  to  blanch  .  170 


PAGE. 

Vegetable  colors 181 

Venison,  antelope,  deer,  remarks  on 665 

—  cherry  sauce — loin  of  deer ...  665 

—  Colbert  sauce — rack,  roasted 666 

—  cutlets  a  la  Buridan „   666 

—  cutlets  a  la  Cauchoise 666 

—  cutlets  a  la  Financiere. 666 

—  cutlets,  deviled 666 

—  cutlets,  tomato  Parisian  sauce 666 

—  cutlets  with  chestnut  puree 666 

—  epigrammes     of     roebuck,    marinade 

sauce  with  truffles 667 

—  jugged 667 

—  kernel,  slices  a  la  Hussarde 668 

—  kernel,  slices  in  papers 668 

—  minced 668 

—  roebuck  (see  roebuck) 667 

—  saddle,  a  1'Athalin 069 

—  saddle,  a  la  Harder 785 

—  saddle,  a  la  MacMahon 669 

—  saddle,  a  la  Morton 669 

—  aigrrelette  sauce — larded 669 

—  saddle,  breaded,  black  cherry  sauce. .  670 

—  saddle,  gastronome 670 

—  saddle,  Huntress  style — antelope 668 

—  saddle,  port  wine  sauce  and  currant 

jelly 670 

—  saddle,  roasted  (Fig.  406) 670 

—  saddle,  Tyrolese  style 669 

—  tenderloin,  grenadins  a  la  Royal 670 

—  tenderloin,  noisettes  a  la  Thierry  ....  670 

—  tenderloin  tournedos,  St.  Hubert 671 

Violets,  candied 1049 

—  jelly  (Fig.  591) 920 

Vol-au-vent  crust  (Fig.  112) 221 

—  crust  in  two  pieces  (Figs.113,  114)  . . .  221 
Vol-au-vent  (large)  a  la  Dieppoise 719 

—  a  la  Financiere  (Fig.  445) 719 

—  a  la  Nesle 720 

—  Ancient  style 720 

—  chicken,  with  mushrooms 720 

—  codfish,  salt 720 

—  frogs  and  Soubise  eggs 720 

—  oysters 720 

Vol-au-vent  (small)  a  la  Delmontes 721 

—  a  la  Lucini „ 721 

—  oysters  a  la  Maintenon 721 

—  Parisian  style 721 

—  reedbirds,  Diplomate 721 

—  salmon  trout  a  la  Regence 721 

Voliere  galantine    of  pheasants   a  la 

Casimir  Perrier  (Fig.  451) 728 

—  a  la  Waddington 729 

Wafers  (see  tea  cakes) 961 

—  with  Curagoa  cream,  rolled 929 

Waffles  (see  breakfast  cakes) 947 

—  brisselets  with  raspberry  cream 929 

Walnuts,  green 367 

—  pickled,  green 367 

Water  ices  (see  ices) 1025 

Weakflsh  a  la  Brighton 468 

—  a  la  Pontigny    468 


INDEX. 


1183 


PAGE.     •{• 

Wells  of  Love  (see  cakes) 957 

Welsh  rarebit,  golden  buck  a  la  Cutting 

or  Yorkshire 389 

White  bait,  deviled 469 

—  fried 469 

—  Greenwich  style 469 

Wlliteflsh  a  la  Gerhardi 469 

—  pimentade  sauce 469 

White  stock  for  meat  and  vegetables 221 

Wild  boar's  head  decorated  (Fig.  537) 801 

—  quarter 637 

Wild     pigeons     or     squabs,     Poupeton, 

Ancient  style 654 

Wines,  and  care  of 1061 

-  basket  for  serving  (Fig.  767).   1062 

—  bottling 1062 

—  clarifying,  red  and  white 1062 

—  decantering 1062 

—  Delmonico's  cellar  list 1063 

—  placing  the  casks  in  the  cellar 1061 

—  to  freeze  champagne  (Figs.  768,  769).  1065 
Woodcock  (Fig.  390) 639 


PAGB. 

Woodcock  a  laCavour. .., 671 

—  a  la  Dumas 671 

—  a  la  Valere 802 

—  breasts  a  la  Diane 671 

—  breasts  a  la  Houston , 671 

—  breasts  a  la  Mancelle 671 

—  breasts  a  la  Vatel  (Fig.  407) 672 

—  broiled  (Fig.  408) 672 

—  cutlets,  Poniatowski  (Fig.  483) 750 

—  cutlets,  Sarah  Bernhardt 751 

—  ruinced 649 

—  mousseline 771 

— :  on  canapes  a  la  Perigord ffiZ 

—  pie — cold    784 

—  pie — hot 701 

—  roasted  (Fig.  409) 672 

—  salmis  a  la  Beaumont 672 

—  salmis  a  la  Sanford 673 

—  stuffed 673 

Zampino,  Modena  of 765 

—  modern  style  with  string  beans 581 

Zephyr  of  rice  with  pineapple 907 


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